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The rubbish in the water and on the beaches is full-on throughout Indo. It’s obviously a big problem. As a visitor it’s easy to neglect the problem because you’re back on a plane and out of there after a couple of weeks. Hopefully the waste management system improves and people that visit the islands take some time to pick up rubbish from the line-ups and beaches. // I’ve been traveling to Indo since I was a teenager. I can’t even remember how many times I’ve been. But I haven’t come close to surfing even a quarter of the world-class waves there. Almost every time I’ve been to Indo I’ve surfed new spots. That always makes a trip really memorable, and this one was definitely no exception. // A few years back I struggled to get the tour race out of my head, but these days I can switch it off pretty easily. Going on a trip like this where everything was a big surprise took my focus off the tour, and I think that shift in focus actually helped set up the back half of the year for me. // That’d be pretty funny if I turned into “The Drifter” after coming back from filming this movie. My hair is so white I’d look Gandalf if I grew it out and let my beard go wild. After this experience I do know one thing: when I’m done competing, I definitely want to go deep into the more isolated areas of Indo.

Bali Belly Issue 003