D AY X
Try being a weatherman around these parts, you would not last long. Never have I seen so many wind changes in one day. Dark monsoonal storms frequently appear, changing conditions in a heartbeat. What was once a howling onshore mess of wind and current suddenly turns into flawless barrels grinding down a pristine reef pass in crystal blue water. Swell forecasts are consistently days out of tune, and sometimes it never comes at all. My favourite, like an unexpected visit from a long lost friend, is when youâ€™re awoken by the sound of a new swell. Caught off guard, adrenaline levels rise and a buzz fills the air When you can smell the moisture being dragged off the land, the clouds darken and the birds disappear, you know your dream session is moments from ending. The devil wind starts brewing and four inches of rain come with it. It pays to have a quick boat round here.