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What was that contest at the Grower this year?

I don't really know about the Brazilian contest, you know. I was in Bali waiting for the Padang Cup when they have the contest at the Grower. It's crazy to me, those guys don't put any locals in the contest. That's a weird contest. If I was here then, I would drop in on all of them. Those guys get a permit to do that (laughing)? He ask the local boys? You can't do that in Hawaii, man. Not in Australia, not in California, no way. All the local boys should be in there. Usman, you surf better at the Grower than all of them. How many local surfers at Deserts?

Local? Maybe ten, but mostly only surfing when it's small wave. When big wave, they are busy working, taking care of all the surfers who come. When big wave, only like five of us locals out surfing.

That's why this place is like a party wave. You need more locals surfing here. The locals here are too nice. You don't want this place to become like Sao Paolo.

No. The locals should be ruling this place, sitting deeper and taking the best waves. Right now these guys with uglystyle in the barrel are taking all the best ones. At Padang we don't have that problem. We always take over when we surf there and take the best waves. When we're there no one can fuck around, you know.

I see many fights at Deserts. Hawaiian fight with Brazilian. California fight with Australian. A couple days ago Brazilian fight with each other in the water. So funny. I watch from the Grower. I wait for the set and it's coming and they too busy fighting. I'm laughing in the barrel. Fighting is no good. Better to just enjoy the waves.


Bali Belly Issue 004