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Maybe we take Awan to surf Grower tomorrow. You think Grower will be good tomorrow? Don't ask me. I'm not local here, you the local here. You know better than me.

You are local here too, Bol. Local in Indonesia, everywhere.

Bol: Fuck, Awan is surfing good now. How old is he?

Usman: Awan is top grommet at Deserts now. He's only 15 and the top backside local. He's learning fast. Three years ago I tell him to paddle outside and get a big one and he's scared. Now he's doing it. You think Awan can get sponsor? For sure, that's what I tell the Volcom guys, Awan is the next Andy, the next Wardo, the next Jamie O'Brien. He's got everything in there. He's been influenced by all those guys because they come here all the time. He's got the style, he's got the moves. He's been learning from the best since he was a little grom.

You get the better shot at Grower today.

I surf Grower sometimes, but only sometimes, because it's too gnarly for me. But when it's good, I surf there. I like to surf the outside, and then I go to the Grower, catch one wave, come back outside. Just a little bit (laughing), so scary. I need to come here more often if I want to get the good one at Grower. I start to come here a lot now because I love this place. Now, on big swells, I let the Bali kids take over Padang Padang and I take over Deserts.

(Bol asks the girl in the warung for one last Bintang and to add up his bill. Beside the counter, clinging to the wall by a few crusty strands of Scotch tape, is a poster for “IndoBarrels,” a competition put on by a Brazilian surf magazine offering 10 million IDR ($1,000) to the surfer who gets a clip of “the best barrel ride in Indonesia” from June 1st to Sept. 1st, 2013. In small print, at the bottom of the poster, it states: “This contest is for Brazilian surfers only.”)


Bali Belly Issue 004