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I N B A L I T H E C O N C R E T E H A S B E E N P O U R E D . The new airport is open. Another hastily erected mega hotel is celebrating its grand opening and more are on the way. Meanwhile, across the cavernous waters of the Lombok straight, on a dust-blown finger of island, a makeshift village of crusty surfing nomads is settling in for the night after another day of mining Indonesia's number one inexhaustible resource: reefbreak barrels. Sitting on a bamboo bench in front of the sea, cleaning the cuts on his feet, is Bali's Made “Bol� Adi Putra. Behind him, making the rounds of the beachside warungs, shaking hands and welcoming his many visitors from around the world, is Usman, who was born and raised on this desert coast. Of the roughly 100 surfers who were out battling for waves today, Bol and Usman were the only Indonesians. Usman strolls over, his boom box pumping out the latest club music from Bali, and parks it next to Bol. Bol snorts the saltwater from his nose and a discussion kicks off between the only locals on hand for this swell.


Bali Belly Issue 004