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NOVEMBER NIGH ‘Om Swastiastu...’ Welcome to the island, to the archipelago, and to our November 2010 edition of Bali & Beyond magazine. Well, what do you know... The year’s end is nigh once again. To some of the team at Bali & Beyond, it doesn’t even feel like a year has already passed! by so swiftly. The countdown to the turn of the year is near and so comes the holiday season - once again. But regardless of the season, we believe it’s always a nuance of holiday when you’re on this island. So simply, we hope you enjoy this November edition of Bali & Beyond. Like in every edition we’ve prepared for you throughout the year(s), we open this edition with this month’s selected news updates from the island’s tourism and leisure industry together with what’s new around the island. For updates beyond the island, see Beyond Updates for more highlights of interest. Next we present you with a feature on the basic concepts and aspects of traditional Balinese architecture, and how change is so perpetual that it is also seen through architecture of buildings throughout the island. Flip the pages to this month’s Craft & Culture. Bulgari have shifted their eyes from beautiful gems to beautiful skin – the esteemed design house has applied its experience with gemological research to the production of its exclusive skincare formula – Bulgari Gem Essence. Discover the essence through this month’s Invite & Indulge. In the September 2000 edition of Bali & Beyond, our cover story featured Balinese windsurfer and Olympic gold-medalist Oka Sulaksana. Now a decade later, we decided to meet up with him and talk about his plans to go for the gold once again in the Asian Games 2010 at Guangzhou in China this month. Flip to this month’s Profile & Portraits, as we all wish him the best to bring home the gold once again. 6



We would also like to wish the Mekar Bhuana Conservatory the best, as they are also going to China for the Asian Games but with a different mission; through the island’s music arts. For this month’s Pondering Point we got in touch with the man behind the Mekar Bhuana Conservatory to gain an insight into their performances set for the 16th Asian Games Concert Series in Guangzhou. Representing Indonesia, the troupe of 20 musicians and 5 dancers will showcase a rare and previously extinct seven-tone Semar Pegulingan repertoire, accompanying Gambuh dances. Through Action & Attractions we meet up with our island’s furry residents... who can be encountered along the road to north Bali via Bedugul and at Ubud Monkey Forest. The timid ones can be found at Alas Kedaton, while the notoriously naughty types can be found on the stairs of the Uluwatu temple. From Bali’s temples to immaculate forests, the Balinese long-tailed macaques reign in various ‘monkey kingdoms’ across the island. And finally beyond the island in Beyond Bali, our contributor takes you to the eastern corners of the archipelago. In his own words, Larantuka is a town of white churches at the eastern tip of Flores that is the end of the road; the point where bus travel finally gives way to boat trips. But though this Catholic stronghold is the terminus of the TransFlores Highway, for anyone with a taste for adventure it is just the start of the real journey.

Gustra uses photography as a medium to express his art. Cultural, human interest and experimental photography are among his interests.

Widnyana Sudibya provides us with some photos of traditional Balinese architecture this month. He has a broad range of images on Bali in his portfolio.

Tim Hannigan first came to Indonesia to surf the world class waves of Bali, but it was the potential for adventure on dry land that really got him hooked.

And in Capital Corner, it is sushi, sashimi, teppanyaki, and tempura for the Japanese food buff. Our contributor shares some of the recommended spots in the capital city that you simply have to try. Enjoy your time on the island and across the archipelago! ‘Om Shanti Shanti Shanti Om…’ The Team

Kathy Petite spends her time writing about travel, lifestyle, arts and culture. She also writes songs, and is writing a novel she never gets to finish..

BALI & BEYOND Deputy General Manager

Managing Editor

Junior Editor

Editorial Advisors Graphic Advisor


Graphic Designer


Advertising & MarComm. Manager


Advertising Sales Executive


F&A Supervisor


GA & Personnel Adm




Contributors TIM HANNIGAN, GUSTRA, KATHY PETITE, HARY SUBASTIAN, WIDNYANA SUDIBYA, MURDANI USMAN Jakarta Marketing Services/Subscription Tel: (021) 315 2683/84, 391 0969 Publisher PT. BUMI DIAN KUSUMA Commissioner SOETIKNO SOEDARJO Director MAULANA INDRAGUNA SUTOWO Division Head MRA Printed Media INDRIATI WIRJANTO Printing PT. SUBUR JARINGAN CETAK TERPADU, JAKARTA OFFICE Bali White House - Jl. Dewi Sri No. 23 Block IV, Kuta 80361- Bali Tel: +62 361 8868601-2, Fax: +62 361 750075 Bali & Beyond Magazine is published monthly by PT. Bumi Dian Kusuma under the direction of MRA Media, Jakarta. Although every care is taken, neither the publishers nor any of their designees assume responsibility for the opinions and information expressed by editorial contributors. All material in this publication is copyrighted and cannot be reproduced without written permission of the publisher or author. All trademark and rights to Bali & Beyond are reserved by PT Bumi Dian Kusuma. Editorial materials may be submitted for consideration to the editorial office. Bali & Beyond is not responsible for the return of unsolicited material. Š 2006 Bali & Beyond ISSN 0216-4590

Endorsed by

BALI GOVERNMENT TOURISM OFFICE Jl. S. Parman, Niti Mandala Renon, Denpasar Tel: (0361) 222 387, 226 313 Fax: (0361) 226 313

A member of





contents 11.10


November 2010 Volume 12 No. 126


Cover Radiance, Renewal Photo courtesy Bulgari Hotels & Resorts, Bali

After the Asian Beach Games, the Asian Games, the Olympics and other international windsurfing championship events, Oka Sulaksana is again competing at the Asian Games in China.




As the old saying goes, “there is nothing permanent except change.” And that definitely applies to traditional Balinese architecture.


The Spa at the Bulgari Resort Bali has introduced its new line of treatments, incorporating its own new gem-based skincare formula.






12 NEW&NEWS This month’s select news updates from the island’s tourism industry and what’s new around the island. 56 BEYONDUPDATES News updates from the tourism industry and what’s new beyond Bali. 60 COMMUNITYCALENDAR Schedules, calendar highlights and various happenings of interest, from art exhibitions to special events.






BALINESE VIBES IN CHINA The Mekar Bhuana Conservatory announces their performances for the 16th Asian Games Concert Series in Guangzhou, China this month. Representing Indonesia, the troupe will showcase rare and previously extinct numbers accompanying dances.

64 SEE&SEEN Snapshots of events and happenings within the preceding month. 70 BALIMAPS Map of Bali showing specific tourism areas and places of interest, as well as a distance scale between the island’s main destinations. 73 CLASSIFIEDCOLUMNS Listings and product descriptions from various clientele. 74 INFOINDEX Useful directory of companies and island-based businesses.





50 50



Sushi, sashimi, teppanyaki, tempura and all that comes with it for Japanese food buffs. Flip over for some of the recommended spots in Jakarta that our contributor suggests you simply must try.



ACTION&ATTRACTION SIMIAN SOVEREIGNTY From Bali’s temples to immaculate forests, the Balinese long-tailed macaques reign in various ‘monkey kingdoms’ across the island.

44 BEYONDBALI ADORING ADONARA Larantuka, a town of white churches at the eastern tip of Flores, is the end of the road. This is the point where bus travel finally gives way to boat trips. For anyone with a taste for adventure it is just the start of the real journey.






November 2010 Volume 12 No. 126





SERVICE UP! HAUNTED COFFEE Black Canyon Coffee recently introduced its Halloween promo, which interestingly continues through November 15. Each Black Canyon Coffee customer that purchases a Halloween promo menu item will receive a limited Halloween theme edition Member Card. Collectible Black Canyon merchandise is also available at Rp. 10,000 ++. The Halloween Festival menu features 4 choices, Twilight Tasmanian Salmon, Silent Clear Soup, Sub-Zero Lime (blended lime frosty black canyon style), marinated chicken breast with teriyaki sauce served with Thai rice and sautéed vegetables, Casper Lovely Banana (deep fried banana served with grated cheese and chocolate caulis), Balinese aromatic lemon tea, King Vampire Prawn, Freddie Fruity Ice Cream, Blended watermelon ‘Frosty Summer Beach style’, stir-fried beef and vegetables with pasta sauce served with steamed rice, Shrek Carrot Salad, Americano Ice Coffee, and Blended American coffee Black Canyon Style. Black Canyon Coffee, Discovery Shopping Mall unit A32 Jl. Kartika Plaza - Kuta, (0361) 769-720;

The Patra Bali Resort & Villas achieved ‘The Best Hotel & Service Excellence of the Year 2010’ selected by the Ministry of Culture & Tourism Republic of Indonesia and International Business & Company Award. General Manager Mr. Hakim Affan expressed that the award represents the employees’ commitment towards The Patra Bali. The award is based on the selection of services and products during the visits of phantom guests sent in by the International Business & Company Awards to resort. This also represents the management quality that runs the hospitality business in a positive way, not only for the achievement of revenues but also in keeping up the standards as a five-star hotel. The Patra Bali Resort & Villas Jalan Ir. H Juanda, South Kuta Beach (0361) 751-161;


SET FOURTH Aston International announced that the group has secured a management contract for its smart select service Favehotel brand in Kuta. The Favehotel Kuta will be a 100-room two star hotel within walking distance of central Kuta with many shopping and entertainment options, making it an ideal value proposition for travelers seeking quality budget accommodations in the heart of Kuta. To enhance the new Favehotels attractiveness, the hotel will also feature ample parking space and an eclectic and trendy café shop. Set to open in September of 2012, the Favehotel Kuta will be the 4th Favehotel Aston has announced in Bali with one in operation in Denpasar and two more in advanced stages of construction in Legian and Seminyak. 12



Novotel Bali Nusa Dua Hotel & Residences introduces 2.28 Beach Club, offering delicious food at reasonable prices. This newly renovated restaurant is equipped with a complete kitchen station, a new pizza oven, an ice cream showcase and selected appetizing food, from Western cuisine and a variety of scrumptious pizzas. Thursdays from 6.30 p.m. feature a fresh seafood BBQ. It is also ideal for a romantic dinner-for-twos, birthday celebrations or chill out sessions with family or friends. 2.28 Beach Club, Private Beach of Novotel Bali Nusa Dua, (0361) 8480-555;





CREAM COPIOUS The American super premium Cold Stone Creamery Ice Cream brand, known for its more than 4 million creations has landed on Bali. From a large variety of flavors and ‘mix-ins’, to the presentation of ice cream with chopping and folding techniques above frozen granite “cold” stone, its first outlet landed at the Bali Discovery Mall, with a number of requests for more Cold Stone stores to open in the future. With the success of its first outlet at the Bali Discovery Mall, Cold Stone recently opened at the Food Terrace of the Mall Bali Galleria. During the Grand Opening period, Cold Stone is giving promotional ‘Free Upsize’ for all ice cream creations including shakes, smoothies, and sorbet. Payment can be made in cash, debit, or credit card, and the promo is valid until November 14.

HILL RETREATS The Nusa Dua Retreat invited guests and members of the island’s travel industry to its recent opening as the island’s newest luxury boutique villa resort. When the new property was in its project phase it was referred to as the Aston Nusa Dua Retreat, but will now open as the Nusa Dua Retreat without the Aston branding. The new hotel is one of the Aston groups’ highly individualized luxury properties following the intention of creating a platform that allows the group to showcase and highlight individual hotels. Other high end resorts managed by Aston such as The Taum Seminyak and a luxury villa resort in Langkawi are currently in the early stages of development and will soon complement the Aston groups growing portfolio of highly individualized and small to midsized luxury hotels.

RACQUETS READY! At a recent press conference, the Commonwealth Bank Tournament of Champions this year promises to present an unbeatable lineup of top-class tennis players with Chinese icon Li Na, defending champion Aravane Rezai and Maria Sharapova among those who have qualified to compete in the Sony Ericsson WTA Tour season finale. And with six other International Series champions as well, the tournament is enhanced by two world-class wild cards, former number one and French Open champion Ana Ivanovic and 2007 Bali runner-up Daniela Hantuchova. This year’s tournament takes place at the Westin Resort Nusa Dua from November 4-7.








ACQUAINTANCES The Westin Resort Nusa Dua, Bali announces two recent appointments that strengthen its Sales & Marketing Division. Mr. Gunawan accepted the role of Japanese Business Development Manager while Ms. Titin Rohayati has taken the position of Assistant Marketing Communications Manager. As a Japanese language graduate from a respected academy in Yogyakarta, Gunawan brings with him a wealth of experience, specializing in sales and account management specifically for the Japanese market. Prior to joining The Westin, Gunawan held a senior role with a leading five-star resort in Nusa Dua.. He also spent time working for one of the biggest Japanese travel agents in Indonesia. A graduate from the Interstudi School of Public Relations in Jakarta, Titin Rohayati commenced her career with Starwood Hotels & Resorts at The Laguna in Nusa Dua, where she chose to cultivate her skills for three years before joining The Westin. The Westin Resort Nusa Dua, Bali (0361) 771-906,

SET WRIGHT! Despite a torrential downpour and onshore winds at the start of the day, Keramas Beach in Bali turned it on for the world’s best junior surfers with an absolute tube fest in the 2010 Oakley World Pro Junior final on October 8. Rip Curl’s Tyler Wright signaled her intentions for the ASP Women’s World Junior title by defeating Alizee Arnaud – 13.40 to 12.67, in a tight final. “It was a really tough battle out there,” said Wright, who won US$5,000 and gained 10,000 ranking points. “Alizee (Arnaud) was ripping and got two early scores on me. I knew I needed to step it up on my next waves so I just went for it. I’m so happy.” Trailing with just under 5-minutes to go, Wright bounced back with a 7.50 to hold on for a narrow victory. Based in Lennox Head, the young star dominated every heat from Round 1 to the final, notching some of the highest scores of each round. In the Junior Men’s, fellow Aussie Jack Freestone took the title from South Africa’s Dale Staples in a thrilling finale.,,

DOWNTOWN KUTA The Hotel Santika Kuta Bali recently opened in downtown Kuta. The brand new hotel is ideally situated within walking distance of the famous Kuta Beach as well as multiple shopping and entertainment centers. The Hotel Santika Kuta Bali offers tranquility plus all the comforts and amenities of a luxury hotel. It features 101 rooms, a coffee shop, swimming pool, meeting room, LCD TVs, and Wi-Fi internet. Hotel Santika Kuta Bali, Jl. Raya Kuta No. 98 (0361) 750-108;




SIP N’ SURRENDER... The Laguna, a Luxury Collection Resort & Spa in Nusa Dua, Bali, invites guests to join and experience its new signature cocktails designed by The Luxury Collection that is now available at all bars and restaurants at the resort. The three signature cocktails are: the Bali Tai, The Anastasia, and the simply named The Last Cocktail. Bali Tai is a curious take on the traditional Mai Tai, with an effortless blend of fresh lime, lychee and black pepper syrup. The Anastasia evokes feelings of Russia’s illustrious history, and is aimed at the Russian market. Pomegranate puree blends with premier vodka, adding a touch of rosemary-infused agave and a dash of Peychaud bitter. The Last Cocktail combines the spiciness of dusted clove, the aroma of Italian juniper berries, flavors of fresh pear and rosemary, and crisp light bubbles of locally produced proseco. The Laguna, a Luxury Collection Resort & Spa, Nusa Dua, Bali (0361) 771-327;





TIME TO WINE ASCENT FULFILLED The Discovery Kartika Plaza Hotel & Villas supported the Bali Hotels Association Sports & Cultural Carnival 2010 by participating in the ‘Mount Agung Ascent’ on October 2. The General Manager of Discovery Kartika Plaza Hotel Mr. Urs Klee together with the team and other BHA members joined the “Mount Agung Ascent”, climbing at 2 a.m. and successfully fulfilling their dreams of reaching the summit of over 3,000 meters at 6 a.m. as the sun rose. The Mount Agung Ascent was part of the Bali Hotels Association’s Sports & Cultural Carnival 2010. BHA conducted this program to reinforce the relationship between BHA members as well as to witness the beauty of Bali’s secret mountain seldom seen by tourists. Discovery Kartika Plaza Hotel & Villas, Jl. Kartika Plaza, South Kuta (0361) 751-067;

Hotel Sanur Beach Bali recently opened its Vinos Wine Lounge located next to its Pepper’s Bar. It is the perfect destination for wine enthusiasts as well as the casual drinker to meet and enjoy themselves in a simple and comfortable environment. The Vinos Wine Lounge offers an attractive wine, beer and champagne selection and provides easy listening and chill-out music. It is open daily from 1 p.m. to 1 a.m. and can be booked for a private evening, corporate and social receptions as well as for wine tasting events. Located on the sandy beach of Sanur and surrounded by 7 hectares of tropical garden, Hotel Sanur Beach Bali features 428 rooms, suites and villas, with 2 large pools and a choice of restaurants and bars. Hotel Sanur Beach Bali, (0361) 288-011

ORIENT-INSPIRED The Nusa Dua Beach Hotel & Spa has reopened its Orient-inspired restaurant Maguro Asian Bistro. Ideal for family, small groups or individuals who like to mingle and experience great food, Maguro will fulfill cravings for mouth-watering Asian cuisine. The atmosphere is clean and Oriental, with a red and black theme and an open kitchen to watch live food preparation. Adding Chinese delicacies into the menu, Maguro now serves Dim Sum, a Chinese tradition, but which Maguro creates with a boldness and savory taste. Enjoy the wide array of exceptional Asian cuisine, surrounded by lush gardens and beautiful view of the beach.




SLEEK STEERS, WOW WHEELS Exotic Rides Bali makes a groundbreaking presence as a unique luxury transportation service in Bali. As their fleet gradually develops, it aims to provide an opportunity to experience the excitement, fun, glamour and thrills that are usually experienced only by celebrities or the rich and famous. Its current Hummer Limousine service features the 8.7-meter and luxury interior vehicle combined with its unique 5-star onboard chauffer and hostess service. The Hummer rates start from Rp. 5 million with space for up to 10 people, making it an affordable addition to any event. For comfort and style it offers a Chrysler 300, and for thrills it’s the joint-venture with the Bali Ferrari Owners Group. Exotic Rides, Jl. Bypass Ngurah Rai 108X, Kuta, (0361) 808-9666






COMPOUNDS, CEREMONIES AND CHANGE Basic concepts and aspects of traditional Balinese architecture, and how change is so perpetual that it is also seen through household compounds and buildings throughout the island. 20




he old saying goes, “there


Balinese architecture typical features, such as the angkul-angkul or the entrance and several other ornamental details. The former’s function is similar to the high rising gates that act as gateways into temples.

The main part is the head. To the

people themselves believe that the island’s

is nothing permanent

Balinese the head is part of the body

own holy peak is Mount Agung, which is

except change.” Because

that is placed in highest regard. The

also the highest on the island.

whatever exists will

head is the person’s identity; the throne

definitely go through it,

of the brain where thought takes place,

middle body. While the head is associated

even though its purity

therefore it must be treated specially and

with the sacred, the body is then the

has been heavily guarded. One thing that

must never be mocked. In buildings, the

place where social interactions take place,

definitely experiences constant change

personification of the head is the shrine or

or how people build relationships and

right before our eyes and around us is

place to worship deities and ancestors.

connect with other humans.

traditional Balinese architecture. Traditional Balinese architecture is

The shrine is bestowed the main

The head is followed by the torso as the

The social process generally takes

space. In vertical forms, the central place

place in the kitchen, the umah meten,

something that adheres to basic principles,

would be at the topmost. But in horizontal

the bale sakapat, bale dangin, and bale

where its residents can develop without

spaces, the main space would be in

dauh. The umah meten is the walled

losing them. There are several categories

respect to the east or geospatially towards

building located in the north part of the

within it, namely home architecture or

the mountains.

traditional household compound. In this

private spaces, village architecture or

East in Sanskrit is Purwa, which

room is the sleeping quarters usually

public spaces, and the architecture of

also means the ‘starting place’. Like the

inhabited by the head of the family. For

temples or places of worship. All of them

day that starts wth the rising sun in the

particular families, these closed quarters

hold on to the same basic principles.

east, the direction of east is therefore

are usually only for female family members,

considered sacred.

while the males sleep in the open-walled

The concept of division of space adheres to the Tri Angga or ‘three body

Hindus believe that the mountains are

building called the bale sakapat, or the

parts’. With the human body as the

the abode of the gods. In India, regarded

analogy, there are sections that are

as the holy mountain is a Himalayan peak

‘four-poster marquee’. The bale dangin is an open-walled

considered primary, middle and bottom or

also referred to as the Mahameru, literally

building located to the east of the whole

the most contemptible.

the ‘greatest mountain’. The Balinese

traditional compound. This space usually BALI&BEYOND



One place that is famed for its wellpreserved traditional concepts of space and architectural features is the village of Penglipuran in the regency of Bangli. serves for things that relate to various rituals, welcoming guests at a household

each have different barn names. A new equilibrium will be achieved

bound ceremony for example, and which

when the interaction does not occur

also shelters the remains of a deceased

between man and God and man and man

family member shortly before the burial or

only, but also between human beings and

cremation procession. Meanwhile the bale

nature. The Balinese carry out farming

dauh, or simply, that which is located in

activities and planting usually in the space

the west, is also a place to receive guests

called tebe or ‘the backyard’.

and social visits but not limited to those associated with the ceremonies. Another building that typically

There are two other common types of buildings, namely the angkul-angkul and the aling-aling facade of which are typical

complements the traditional Balinese

for Balinese house buildings. Angkul-

compound is the rice barn. This is a

angkul is the entrance. Its function is

storage area for rice after harvests among

similar to the high rising gates that act as

agrarian households. It is no wonder,

entrances into a temple ground.

considering that most of the Balinese

Meanwhile the aling-aling, the façade,

people have and still live the agrarian life

is a small wall after the angkul-angkul that

as rice farmers. The higher the family’s

serves as a diversion, so that the entrance

social level, the greater the barn with more

is not a straight line but rather sideways so

pole buffers. Of the pillar counts, four to 12

that the view in is barred from outsiders.

The overview of typical traditional Balinese house is still maintained in the rural areas of the island. Mainly because these traditional houses are old if not primordial in their attributes and preserved PHOTOS BY WIDNYANA SUDIBYA

by the generations. However in urban areas this pattern has become a rare sight. A university study conducted in Bali mentions that there now are three changing trends in traditional Balinese architecture, namely the propensity to survive, fade, and thrive. The tendency to survive occurs in sacred buildings like 22



temples or places of worship in respective

style in their buildings, using ornaments

with minimalist approaches instead. One

homes. The Balinese still hold on to taboos

and Balinese carvings to show the

building with several bedrooms, a kitchen,

about making changes to those places.

uniqueness of the Balinese traditions. Their

a living room, and with or without a

owners and developers want to provide

yard. The other separate building would be

people’s homes. This is caused by many

more in-depth impressions to inhabitants

the family shrine or place of worship.

factors. While the tendency to develop

as they are indeed staying in Bali.

The tendency to fade occurs in

occurs in public spaces, like government

Land limitations, practicality reasons

Changes also occur in the use of materials, installation of traditional

buildings and hotels or villas, there is a

and current housing trends become the

ornaments, and downsizing on types

desire to preserve and show the identity

reasons for changes. Traditional Balinese

of ceremonies involved. At first wood,

but not to avoid adjusting to the current

architectural patterns tend to require larger

bamboo and other materials could be

situation and condition.

land spaces, whereas a single head of a

obtained with ease, from nature or the vast

household can only pursue a limited area.

household tebe. Now everything needs

They ultimately choose to build houses

to be bought, not to mention alternative

Some modern (borrowing traditional attributes) villas choose to adopt Balinese





Another structure that typically complements the traditional Balinese compound is the lumbung rice barn. This is a storage area for rice after harvests among agrarian households.

replacements of the materials as supplies

the construction of the building’s

days for construction, calculations of the

have become more and more limited due

foundation, as a blessing for the building

buildings and all the ancient lontar palm

to the increasing number of developments.

to be on a solid and strong foundation.

leaf manuscripts which contain the basic

The pemlaspasan is conducted after

guidelines of building development, but

usually found in the homes of higher castes

the building is completed and before it

he also has the spiritual responsibility for

such as Brahmins or families of priesthood,

welcomes its first residents.

the building that he worked on. Nowadays

Traditional Balinese ornaments are

as well as nobility and merchants. But

Traditional Balinese architecture

the work is completed by architects who

now caste is no measure of the size of

follows main guidelines called Asta Kosala

have formal educational backgrounds and

the house or if it would incorporate a

Kosali. In it contains various counts based

degrees under their belt, with only social

certain style and traditional ornamentation,

on the dimensions of the building owner’s


but how much the homeowners could

body, such as the size of the fist, width

afford. Everything comes back to the

and length of the soles of the feet, fingers,

once issued a proposition for public

financial power of the homeowner now.

etc. Terms of traditional construction

buildings and homes to keep the hints of

The Balinese are inseparable from

Change is inevitable. The government

are considered too complex and are

traditional Balinese architecture intact so

ceremonies. Each ceremony has specific

mastered by only a few people. Now it all

that the Balinese identity through structures

meaning. In the construction of a house,

comes easy with the introduction of tape

can be recognized and guarded.

there are several stages that must be

measures, the international metric system

passed but of which now has undergone

and so forth.

contractions, narrowing them down to

Back in time, construction was

If measurements and counts laid out in the ancient manuscripts could not be implemented to current conditions, at least

only two of the most basic of ceremonies,

carried out by the traditional Balinese

the most recognizable features can, such

the nasarin and the pemlaspasan. The

architect, the undagi. He was not only

as the use of ornaments and figures. â–

nasarin ceremony is carried out during

familiar with the determination of good

Text by Ni Luh Dian Purniawati









EXPERIENCE THE ESSENCE OF RADIANCE AND RENEWAL Esteemed design house Bulgari has applied its experience with gemological research to the production of its exclusive skincare formula – the Bulgari Gem Essence. 26




The Spa at The Bulgari Resort, Bali’s landmark hospitality lounge, welcomes guests in an original 18th century Joglo House transported from the Central Javanese city of Kudus.


ince its arrival on

research to the production of its exclusive

the Cleansing Line. Each treatment line

the island, The

skincare formula – Bulgari Gem Essence.

is tailored to meet specific needs such

After several years of research, Swiss-

as anti-ageing care, revitalization care,

Spa at the Bulgari Resort Bali features

based Bulgari Cosmetiques Research

and daily cleansing respectively. The

modern techniques

Department and qualified dermatologists

Precieuse Line is for intensive regeneration


have developed the Bulgari Gem Essence:

and includes concentrated serum, face

time-honored therapies. The cliff-top

a genuine association of fine and precious

creams, anti-aging mask, eye contour

spa offers breathtaking views and an

stones. Rich in oligo-elements, this mineral

cream and wrinkle filler. For those of us

ultimate spa experience from its dramatic

treasure has three unique properties for the

who want increased radiance — perfect

location on a high cliff top with stunning

skin: incomparable radiance, revitalization

for emerging from the colder months when

views overlooking the Indian Ocean – a

and protection from environmental stresses.

skin feels unquenched and weather-beaten

complete retreat from the rest of the world.

It takes the therapeutic properties

— there’s the Lumiere Line with revitalizing

The Spa’s landmark hospitality lounge

of extracts of precious stones such as

serum, a day-and-night emulsion and

welcomes guests in an original 18th

sapphire, malachite, tourmaline and citrine,

cream formulated to restore hydration and

century Joglo House transported from the

and tunes them to meet modern cosmetic

counter a dull, opaque reflection.

Central Javanese city of Kudus.

and therapeutic needs. To create the

Only recently, The Spa at the Bulgari

A jeweler since 1884, Bulgari is one

Bulgari Gem Essence, the gemstones are

of the leading players in the luxury goods

Resort Bali has introduced a new line of

pulverized and liquefied, and then added to

market and enjoys international recognition

treatments, incorporating its own new

active ingredients.

for the outstanding quality of its precious

gem-based skincare formula. Bulgari have

These gems are understood to have

stones. Having established its reputation

shifted their eyes from beautiful gems to

healing capabilities. It is composed

in the world of fine jewelery, the brand

beautiful skin – the esteemed design house

of three distinct treatment lines: the

gradually expanded the scope of its

has applied its experience with gemological

Precieuse Line, the Lumiere Line, and

activities to watch-making, accessories BALI&BEYOND




The cliff-top spa offers breathtaking views and an ultimate spa experience from its dramatic location on a high cliff top with stunning views overlooking the Indian Ocean – a complete retreat from the rest of the world.

and fragrances and more recently to the

Spa Experience: a world where prestige,

world of luxury hotels and cosmetics.

elegance, sensuality and glamour harmonize

With the launch of Gem Essence, Bulgari

and innovation. At the very heart of these

premium range of skincare creams where

precious rituals is the Bulgari Signature

the raw material itself is “precious” and

Massage: an exclusive massage that

allows the skin to retrieve its original youth

works in perfect harmony with Bulgari Gem

and radiance. The Bulgari Gem Essence

Essence to provide radiance, revitalization

range reflects the elegance and ultra-

and protection from environmental stresses.

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In Bali & Beyond’s September edition a decade ago, our cover story featured this Balinese windsurfer and Olympic goldmedalist. Now we meet up with him to talk about his plans to go for gold once again.


fter the Asian Beach

simplest reason is because wind blows

Games, the Asian

on every coast, while good rolling waves

Games, the Olympics and

for surfing are limited to certain beaches

other world windsurfing

directly fronting the ocean.

championship events, Oka Sulaksana is again

Windsurfing was introduced by the tourism scene as part of the main hotel

competing at the Asian Games in China

activities, according to Balinese windsurfer

this month. Will he return and present

and Indonesian sport envoy Oka

medals to his country? All the best to Oka!

Sulaksana. Western guests staying at the

Windsurfing saw its advent in Bali in the

star hotels were the first to introduce the

70s. This wave riding sport that relies on

sport to the Balinese society, including to

Earth’s natural movement of air came later

Oka himself.

than surfing, but gained recognition earliest from the Indonesian government. Several reasons are behind it, but the

Oka was born and raised in Sanur. His father was a traditional fisherman and his mother was a beach peddler. From




When Oka was just 16 years old he competed in a major championship that was held in Singapore. It became his first championship abroad.




childhood he followed his father to the sea

In 1985 when the Bali Open

to harvest fish. From there he learnt much

Championships were held in Sanur, Oka

about wind control. He learned to surf

signed up to compete. He came away with

at an early age, but unfortunately Sanur

a gold for Indonesia. Since then he gained

was unlike Kuta and good waves did not

more confidence and practiced more

always come, but the easterly winds were

often. He was lucky to be given complete

almost certainly persistent.

access to the\practice and racing facilities

Seeing some guests at the Bali Hyatt busy playing with their sailing boards, he

provided by Ngurah Wijaya. When he was just 16 years old he

then tried it himself with his surfboard fitted

competed in a major championship that

with the most simple of sails. His talent

was held in Singapore. It became his

in picking up the new sport caught the

first championship abroad. Nonetheless,

attention of Ngurah Wijaya, the owner of

he performed with full self-confidence,

the Segara Village Hotel. As a windsurfing

achieving second place. His consecutive

enthusiast himself, he recognized Oka’s

victories, along with his persistence and

natural talent and potential.

enthusiasm led him to affording his own

set of sporting equipment. And windsurfing gear can be quite

The right time to learn windsurfing in Bali is between May and September. And

expensive. According to Oka, a standard

narrowing it down, the best time to

set of gear would be worth up to Rp. 10

windsurf along the coast would be

million. That was why not everyone could

between July and August. At that time

afford it. It is also the reason behind the

the winds are at their strongest. These

slow progress of the development of the

two months are also usually filled with kite

sport in Bali. Until now, there aren’t as

competitions and events.

many windsurfers as compared to surfers. And to learn windsurfing is not that

West winds blow from November to February. This is also a good time for

difficult. And this was what inspired Oka

windsurfing. However, due to the strong

to establish a club, the Bali Windsurfing

speeds that quickly bring windsurfers out

Center on Mertasari Beach in Sanur. Those

to sea, these months are more favored

joining the club are enthusiastic and willing

among the pros.

to learn and hone their skills. They are provided club facilities to train with. The club is open to everyone. They

Several beaches in Bali that are also good for windsurfing are Serangan, Nusa Dua, Canggu, Lovina and

provide membership options on a monthly

Tulamben. However, the most famous

or yearly basis. In fact, they are also open

and most often used for championships is

to those who wish to come once or twice

Sanur. It is no wonder that the windsurfer

just to have a go.

community has formed there. Yet Sanur also has its limitations. The coast has a stark high and low tide. The boards’ fins can easily get damaged at low tide as levels can reach 30 cm with the

Oka’s daughter, Chandra, is in fact the island’s first and only female windsurfing athlete. Oka established the Bali Windsurfing Center on Mertasari Beach in Sanur. Those joining the club are enthusiastic and willing to learn and hone their skills.

seaweed covered seabed. Oka not only teaches Sanur locals but also accepts enthusiasts from out of the Sanur area as well as foreigners. He has encouraged his kids to love the sport as well. Two of his three kids, I Gusti Chandra Pertiwi Sulaksana and I Gusti Bagus Gopala Sulaksana are already masters of their craft. Chandra is in fact the island’s first and only female windsurfing athlete. To date, Oka has achieved many highly regarded accomplishments, such as two Gold Medals at the Asian Games 1998 in Bangkok, Thailand, and in 2002 at Busan, South Korea. He has also participated in various world windsurfing championship events and several times in the Olympics. This November he will again fight to bring his national pride to China at the Asian Games. Full speed and Godspeed Oka! ■ Text by Ni Luh Dian Purniawati Photos courtesy Oka Sulaksana BALI&BEYOND






The Mekar Bhuana Conservatory are going to China for the Asian Games but with a different mission; through the island’s music and performing arts.





n this year’s September edition

some details we got from Vaughn on his

of Bali & Beyond, we profiled the

side of the mission.

classical Balinese music and dance

The Mekar Bhuana Conservatory

conservatory Mekar Bhuana, and

announces their performances for the

the man behind the initiative, Vaughn

16th Asian Games Concert Series

Hatch. Just recently we got the news

in Guangzhou, China this month.

from Vaughn that they’ll be going to China

Representing Indonesia, the troupe of 20

for the Asian Games, so once again Bali’s

musicians and 5 dancers will showcase

art envoys are going to share the vivid

the rare and previously extinct seven-

colors and eloquent moves and sounds of

tone Semar Pegulingan repertoire,

Bali to the world – outside of the region. In

accompanying the Gambuh dances.

this edition’s Profile & Portrait you’ve read

Their repertoire includes two once-

about our athlete figure, who will also aim

extinct Pagan Kelod Semar Pegulingan

for gold at this year’s games. Now here’s

pieces that were reconstructed from field

Condong Subandar, Putri, Patih and Gabor. When Mekar Bhuana gets major performance opportunities, the members always make an effort to learn rare or extinct pieces, documenting, preserving and exposing these classical art forms so that more people become aware about ALL PHOTOS COURTESY MEKAR BHUANA

their existence. Sound samples of the music they are currently reconstructing will be regularly updated on the conservatory’s website: Before Mekar Bhuana performs in Guangzhou, they plan to document the music and dance for posterity on video (HD DVD) and in audio format (CD). They have been doing a sponsorship drive to

To get involved and support the documentation project, or to simply further find out what the conservatory is all about, check out:

recordings made by Pande Made Sukerta

reconstructed from a 1972 record. The

cover these and other preparation costs,

in 1977 and donated to the conservatory:

conservatory recorded this on their debut

an excellent opportunity for potential

Condong Perong Subandar and

album last year before performing it in

sponsors, particularly organizations with

Sumambang Jawa. Both of these pieces

Singapore. Their closing piece, Ginanti,

business interests in China, to get involved

are challenging due to the sheer breadth

was reconstructed last year from the oldest

and support the documentation. For

of the compositions as well as the refined

known recording of Balinese gamelan in

further information, contact Putu Evie via

yet focused emotional state that is required

1928, the dubs of which was given to the

to present the music in the old manner.

conservatory by Edward Herbst for study

This will be the first time these pieces have

and analysis purposes.

been heard since the early eighties, and

The conservatory’s dancers are

Mekar Bhuana will perform two concerts at the Lingnan Grand Hall at 8 p.m. on November 15 and 16. Bali &

many decades since the dances have

currently being trained by I Gusti Agung

Beyond wishes Mekar Bhuana, along

been performed with Semar Pegulingan

Susilawati, ex-KoKar (Konservatorium

with all Balinese and national sporting


Karawitan) teacher and dance expert from

and cultural envoys the best in China this

Sibang. They will perform four dances:

month. ■

Another piece, Sekar Gadung, was






With the spread of different ‘settlements’, from the coast to the farflung highland areas of the island, the colonies of grey long tailed macaques all show dissimilar ‘cultures’, behaviors and antics.





While visiting the picturesque setting of the Uluwatu temple, the locals might suggest you have a stick handy; while in other ‘monkey kingdoms’ such as Alas Kedaton and Lempuyang, you need not worry much.


rom Bali’s temples to

Most Balinese residents agree in one

its immaculate forests,

way or the other, that nothing rivals the

the Balinese long-tailed

‘notoriety’ of the monkeys of Sangeh.

macaques reign in various

This seems to be the first known and

‘monkey kingdoms’ across

most famous monkey kingdom on the

the island.

island, and its habitants have earned their

These furry residents can be

reputation as swift pickpockets. Keep your

encountered along the road to north Bali

accessories to a minimum. Your prescription

via Bedugul, at Ubud’s Monkey Forest,

lenses cost more than the entrance fee,

the timid ones at Alas Kedaton, while the

so better pocket them and squint rather

notoriously naughty types can be found up

than have them snatched. Let those long-

the stairs to the Uluwatu temple.

tailed macaques practice their crafty skills

Modern-day people call them nature’s

on someone else. At times, it can be the

indigenous pickpockets, while others

highlight of a visit, with cheers and laughter!

consider them the predominant inhabitants

Some tourists don’t even mind their loss, a

of the hills, cliffs and jungles long before

trade for fun and rare show of plight.

the coming of Balinese tribes. And with the

Sangeh’s grey macaques roam freely

spread of different ‘settlements’, from the

on a hill called Bukit Sari, where sits a

coast to the far-flung highland areas of the

temple of the same name. The monkeys

island, they all show dissimilar ‘cultures’,

there are said to comprise three regions

behaviors and antics.

in the ‘monkey kingdom’. According to a BALI&BEYOND



The island’s furry residents can be encountered along the road to north Bali via Bedugul, at Ubud’s Monkey Forest, the timid ones at Alas Kedaton, while the notoriously naughty types can be found up the stairs to the Uluwatu temple. 40



During meditation, Anak Agung Anglurah Made Karangasem Sakti obtained inspiration to build a temple in the nutmeg forest at Sangeh. To this day, the Bukit Sari temple remains testament to the duty and respect that the Royal Family of Mengwi pays in tribute to the gods of Mount Agung. While in Uluwatu, good advice is to take along a stick for your walk through the ‘forest’, just to bluff the monkeys and keep them from stalking and snatching anything – from below and from up in the foliage. Don’t wear interesting items, and park away from trees and large groups of the racketing ruffians – to save your car’s paint job. A much friendlier crew inhabits

local legend of Bukit Sari this was where Hanuman, the monkey character from the Ramayana epic, lifted the mountain Mahameru. Some parts of this mountain fell down there and since then the monkeys have ruled over the region. The Sangeh Monkey Forest is located in the namesake village within the Badung regency around 25 km from the city of Denpasar. The area was once a nature reserve, then with the issuance of a Ministry of Forestry decree in 1993 its status changed to a Nature Park, covering 14 hectares of homogeneous Pala (nutmeg) forests at an altitude of 100 -150 meters above sea level. It was Anak Agung Anglurah Made Karangasem Sakti, the adopted son of the King of Mengwi Cokorda Sakti Blambangan, who built the Bukit Sari temple. Mengwi was once one of Bali’s major kingdoms located near Sangeh. At the beginning of the 17th century, the royal family of Mengwi ruled from the Blambangan area all the way to East Java. BALI&BEYOND





It’s most natural inhabitants - the primordial primates, enhance the antiquated scenes of Bali’s temples and the island’s deep immaculate forests.





Alas Kedaton in the Tabanan regency (above and far left) is a lush 12-hectare forest that also is the site of the namesake temple. That is inhabited by the more ‘friendly’ gray macaques. So is the long stairway climb up Lempuyang temple (left) where colonies greet pilgrims along the way.

the Mandala Wisata Wenara Wana

male sub adults, 77 adult females, 122

of the furry beings in their valleys. The

Padangtegal Ubud, better known as the

juveniles and 54 infants) Balinese long-

temple of Pulaki on the northwest coast

Ubud Monkey Forest. This sanctuary

tailed macaques that inhabit the Sacred

similarly shares the ‘annoy the prayer-

for the macaca fascicularis is taken care

Monkey Forest of Padangtegal. However,

goers’ antics of Uluwatu, while in my

of by the Padangtegal community, who

these long-tailed macaques do not belong

own personal experience, the shiest of all

in a fun way call their monkey friends

to the same troop. In fact, within the

colonies are the macaques of the eastern

‘krama bojog’. Special officers or rangers

Sacred Monkey Forest there are 4 distinct

hills – the long stairway climb up the

feed the monkeys on controlled daily

troops. Tourists tend to have a difficult time

Lempuyang temple pilgrimage.

schedules; however, visitors also get the

identifying the various long-tailed macaque

chance to feed them bananas in regulated

troops, mostly because the area(s) that

primordial primates, enhance the

amounts, to prevent them from becoming

each of the troops primarily occupy within

antiquated scenes of Bali’s temples and


the boundaries of the Sacred Monkey

the immaculate forests. Pay homage

Forest changes over time.

to the natural side, the many ‘monkey

Although the Sacred Monkey Forest of Padangtegal is only about a tenth of a

Alas Kedaton in the Tabanan regency

It’s most natural inhabitants - the

kingdoms’ across the island, but always

kilometer square (approximately 27 acres)

is a lush 12-hectare forest that is also

keep caution in mind: though they have

in size, it is rich in terms of biodiversity. The

inhabited by the more ‘friendly’ gray

lived side-by-side with humans for

Sacred Monkey Forest contains upwards

macaques. On the way to the Bedugul

centuries, they still are wild animals. Have

of 80 species of trees. Currently, there are

uplands and passing the border north to

fun monkeying around! ■

approximately 340 (32 adult males, 19

the Buleleng regency, there are also sights

Text and photos by Nyoman Ari Gunadi BALI&BEYOND





doring donara

Small, sun-bleached passenger boats will carry you from Larantuka across the clear turquoise waters to Waiwerang, the capital of Adonara. It is a tiny township of rusting tin roofs and sagging palm trees, and once the ferry departs an air of tropical torpor descends. Adonara is close enough to Larantuka to visit on a day trip, but there are a couple of simple guesthouses here if you want to spend the night.


arantuka, a town of white

small island with a big history; beyond it

churches at the eastern

is the rugged and mountainous Lembata,

tip of Flores, is the end of

famed for its traditional whaling village at

the road. This is the point

Lamalera on the south coast. Further afield

where bus travel finally

and beyond the horizon lies the volcanic

gives way to boat trips.

Pantar and the pristine coral reefs and

But though this Catholic stronghold is the

dark, myth-filled hills of Alor. But before

terminus of the Trans-Flores Highway, for

all that, rising in steep green hillsides just

anyone with a taste for adventure it is just

across the Flores Strait is Adonara, the

the start of the real journey.

most easily reached in this tantalizing chain

From the dockside, with its baskets and bundles and white wooden ferries, a view

of islands, but perhaps the least visited. Small, sun-bleached passenger boats

of a mirror-smooth private sea opens, and

will carry you from Larantuka across the

offshore lies the first landfalls of the Solor

clear turquoise waters to Waiwerang, the

and Alor Archipelagos, the string of small

capital of Adonara. It is a tiny township of

islands that form the furthest extremity of

rusting tin roofs and sagging palm trees,

the East Nusa Tenggara province. To the

and once the ferry departs an air of tropical

south stands the long ridge of Solor, a

torpor descends. Adonara is close enough




Pantai Ena Burak, one of Adonara’s best beaches lies about ten kilometers east of Waiwerang. BALI&BEYOND



Ile Boleng peak under a spectacular evening sky, seen from neighboring Lembata. Locals are adept at shinning up the trunks of palm trees to cut coconuts for drinking water, or to make tuak – palm wine (above left). One of the rumah adat, the ceremonial buildings in Lama Nepa hamlet near Koli. Ancestral heirlooms are keptNOVEMBER inside (above2010 right). 46 BALI&BEYOND

sionaries arrived even earlier – in 2010 the

mixture of Catholics and Muslims. The two

Catholic community focused on Larantuka

communities live side by side, and there

celebrating its 500th anniversary. In 1561

are often interfaith marriages for they share

the Portuguese arrived in force and built

the same adat traditions, the customs and

one fort on Solor and another on the north

belief systems that predate the arrival of

coast of Adonara. From this unlikely out-

foreign religions on Adonara. Bride prices

post they controlled the traffic in fragrant

here are still paid in heirloom elephant

sandalwood from nearby Timor, as well as

tusks, imported from mainland Asia cen-

spices from Maluku further north. It was

turies ago. The most valuable of the tusks

only when the Portuguese lost ground to

can be worth as much as Rp50 million, and

the Dutch in the 17th century that Solor

a marriage between aristocratic families

and Adonara became a lost tropical back-

can require a payment of ten such pieces!

water once more. Today only the echoes

Traditions are at their strongest in the

of their Portuguese past are in the strong

hills of Adonara. Though the island is peace-

Catholicism of these islands, and in the

ful now, local men still carry long spears

devotion shown to the ancient Portuguese

when they go into the forest, an echo of

idol of the Virgin Mary, known here as

times when rival clans were often in conflict.

Tuan Ma.

In the villages of the Koli area, high amongst

Beyond Waiwerang Adonara is a place

green, palm-clad ridges with a view of Ile

of steeply folded hills and thick palm

Boleng’s smooth cone rising to the east,

forests. Despite the greenery this is a dry

there are traditional ceremonial buildings.

Waiwerang’s name means “Water from the Land” in the local language, and it is named after a hot spring that bubbles out of the ground not far from the jetty. to Larantuka to visit on a day trip, but there

island by Indonesian standards. Maize

are a couple of simple guesthouses here if

rather than rice is the main crop here.

the Koke-Bale, the thatched building tra-

you want to spend the night.

Great piles of yellow corncobs are heaped

ditionally used for planning battles in times

outside red-roofed village houses, and the

of clan warfare, is decorated with a carving

the Land” in the local language, and it is

local staple food is jagung titi, a sort of

of the dragon that was slain by the village’s

named after a hot spring that bubbles out

squashed popcorn!

founding fathers according to legend. In

Waiwerang’s name means “Water from

of the ground not far from the jetty. This

The potholed road east of Waiwerang

In the Lama Nepa hamlet, the roof of

another building nearby one family has the

geothermally heated water shows that

leads through villages and cornfields with

duty of minding a sacred sword, said to

fiery forces are at work beneath Adon-

the soaring slopes of Ile Boleng looming to

have belonged to the dragon-slayer. Sa-

ara’s green hills, and a glance east along

the left. To the right lies a string of pristine

cred power and ancestral spirits are said

Waiwerang’s sleepy main street reveals the

white beaches. Head down a bumpy red

to linger around this rusty heirloom, so an

volcanic apex of the region – Ile Boleng,

track to Pantai Ena Burak on a weekday

offering of food and tuak, a palm wine, are

the 1,659 meter mountain that looms over

and you’ll likely have the strip of blinding

placed before it each evening.

the island.

white sand, backed by palms and black

Tuak is made from fermented coconut

basalt outcrops and fronted by a skyline

water or lontar juice and quaffed from a

was close to the epicenter of some of the

view of the hills of Solor and Lembata,

hollowed out coconut shell, and is the

earliest European involvement in Indonesia.

all to yourself. Small white boats chug

beverage of choice in these villages, but

The Portuguese explorer Ferdinand Magel-

against the current offshore and the bright

before drinking, anyone whose parents

lan sailed this way in 1522, and according

blue water surges onto the shore.

have already died will deliberately spill a

Despite its remote location, Adonara

to local tradition the first Portuguese mis-

Today the people of Adonara are a

drop of the sweet liquor onto the ground BALI&BEYOND












– an offering to the ancestors.


ash high into the tropical sky.

and Java. Taboos surround the flanks of

More folklore surrounds the mighty,

Today the mountain is dormant and

dominating volcano peak that towers over

the climb to the summit is one of the most

Ile Boleng – no salt or fish may be carried to the summit, and on the slopes even

Adonara. Each year at the start of the wet

rewarding hikes in Nusa Tenggara. From

discussions of maritime matters, boats or

season, elders from the villages on the lower

the cool, green village of Lamalota a black

whales for example, are forbidden.

slopes head up to the summit of Ile Boleng

trail leads through dense forest and past

Beyond the forest the trail leads over

where they toss chickens into the deep

small gardens in quiet clearings with tan-

steep, stony slopes before finally reach-

crater as offerings. The volcano, locals say,

gles of thorny creepers and wild avocado

ing the crater lip. Follow this great gaping

must be fed like this each year to ensure

and guava trees. Villagers grow vanilla

chasm of fractured red rock to the very

that it remains good tempered. Perhaps its

in the undergrowth and the branches are

summit and you’ll find a swell view of a wild

hunger was not satisfied in 1982 – the last

full of green parakeets and other birdlife

island world. Far below is all of Adonara,

year that it erupted, throwing smoke and

more reminiscent of Australia than of Bali

from Ena Burak’s white shore to the green, village-speckled interior. To the south Solor rides like a ship at anchor, and to the east Lembata broods with Ile Boleng’s twin, the steep cone of Ile Api, rising over the shore. And beyond to the west lies the mountains of Flores. The view makes the climb more than worthwhile, and that panorama of isolated islands is a tantalizing window looking out onto other potential adventures in this beautiful, little-known




corner of Indonesia. ■ Text and photos by Tim Hannigan












Follow on with the seems-to-bemushrooming trend of eating Japanese in town. For sushi, sashimi, teppanyaki, tempura, or any other kind of dish... dig in - with chopsticks.


f that agreeing nod comes with a

blue Japanese food buff, read on. Below

spontaneously wandering mind

are some of the recommended spots in

thinking about naughty tartan mini

town you have to try.

skirts or sailor-moon style school have to disappoint you.


Apart from their considerable

What’s more entertaining than sitting

uniforms or those kinky erotic toys, I

contribution in wild imaginations and

at their spacious Teppanyaki tables

innovations, err… if not bizarre, out-of-the

watching (and drooling at) the chef as he

box ideas, the Japanese are also known

is chopping, slicing, stirring, whipping and

as some of the world’s greatest creators of

tossing the fresh ingredients as the smell

gastronomic joy.

of spices linger in the air? Maintaining

From the tasty tempting appetizer to

the classic tradition of the cuisine, Sekitei

the sweet scrumptious dessert, how can

offers Sushi & Sashimi, Tempura, and Hot

one argue that their kitchen is not a journey

Pot (Shabu-Shabu and Sukiyaki). Their

of culinary delights? Perhaps that explains

beautifully presented appetizer range

the seems-to-be-mushrooming trend

consists of light dishes with colorful tastes.

of eating Japanese in town. For sushi,

Miso Soup is a nice warm entrance,

sashimi, teppanyaki, tempura, or any other

followed by Salmon Sashimi with Ponzu

kind of dish.

sauce or Salmon Teppanyaki in aluminium

Now if you are a trend-follower, simply a curious and adventurous eater, or a true

foil with Yuzu Butter. The garlicky fried rice topped with crunchy salmon skin BALI&BEYOND






Title page: Miyama Jyu Jyu Steak; page 51: Sekitei Sushi; this page: Miyama assorted rolls and Sekitei interiors; page 53: Miyama Hamachi Kama.




have the gigantic lush and leafy garden

it the impeccably Kimono-dressed staff?

of the Borobudur Hotel, in which to take

You decide for yourself when you dine at

your happy belly on a nice healthy stroll

Asuka. It’s hard not to be impressed. But

after indulging your Japanese cravings.

indeed, ambience isn’t the only thing that

Their big Lunch and Dinner menu selection

will take your breath away. Their Omakase

ranges from Sushi-Sashimi, Tempura,

dining is an exotic multi-course dining

Teppanyaki, Bento Set, and Teppanyaki to

journey that will leave you speechless.

the royal Kaiseki Course. Ask for a combo

Seriously, how can you forget the smooth

of tiny fried chicken, mini pizza and tofu

and tender meat of their sensational Fugu

for a fun appetizer. To warm up, you can

Fish? Or the chewy Whale’s Tongue

start with their mushroom grill in aluminum

(Saezuri Karashisumiso) in vinegar sauce

foil with its simple but tasty soup or kama

and miso paste? The tiny delicious broiled

hamachi, their salty fried fish. A couple of

duck meat is also another joyful dish.

must-try grilled beef includes the soft and

You can’t go wrong with their white fish

succulent Gyu Teriyaki and the served-on-

or sashimi, as they’re all so fresh and

hot-volcano-stone Jyu Jyu Steak. Rainbow

delightful. Remember though, not to miss

Miyama’s Lunch and Dinner selection ranges from Sushi-Sashimi, Tempura, Teppanyaki, Bento Set, and Teppanyaki to the royal Kaiseki Course. Ask for a combo of fried chicken, mini pizza and tofu for appetizer. is perfect company for the tender, nice

Sushi is a joyous bite with a mix of avocado,

their addictive Salmon Mentai Rolls. And

and juicy premium-grade Wagyu Beef.

salmon cucumber and tuna. Miyama is a

make sure to leave a space for dessert.

As for the sushi, grab the California Rolls

paradise for Japanese desserts as they offer

Their cold, mouth-watering, soft and juicy

and Ebi Tempura Rolls. Apart from the

heaps of sweet picks.

Japanese Melon & Strawberry is to die for.

regular menu, you can also enjoy their

Don’t be too full for their green tea

Asuka, JW Mariott Jakarta

Combination Set Menu (where you can

Japanese pancake (Dorayaki) with red

Jl. Lingkar Mega Kuningan Kav. E.1.2,

choose from 9 available dishes including

beans and vanilla ice cream. Or the Cream

Jakarta, (021) 5798-8888

Chawan Mushi, Rice, Set and Dessert. Or

Amitsu that blends sweet red beans, fruit

their Lunch Menu that offers you 2 or 3

cocktail, rice cake dumplings and Ogura

dishes from the 25 available. There you go,

ice cream. Now, how can you resist such


so now you know where to indulge your

a combo?

In contrast to the hustle and bustle of the

mega Japanese cravings.

Miyama, Hotel Borobudur

Grand Indonesia, Senryo is a calm, noise-

Sekitei at Bimasena,

Jalan Lapangan Banteng Selatan,

unpolluted Japanese dining destination

The Dharmawangsa Hotel

Jakarta, (021) 380-5555 ext. 73100

with a range of sushi rolls that you will

Jl. Dharmawangsa Raya 39, Jakarta

find hard to refuse. Start with the simple


and fresh Genki Salad, followed by the


Is it the edgy Zen-designed interior with

lovers, this is your paradise. Some of the

the handmade paper lighted-wall? Or the

highlights include Yaki Salmon, Salmon

Does the joy end when you empty that

Honoki wood-decorated sushi counter

Mentai, Smoked Salmon (with tasty

dessert plate? Not at Miyama. You still

with a unique curved wall behind it? Or is

mayonnaise and onions) and the unique

(021) 725-4142

rather sweet Tamago Yaki (eggs). Salmon






From tempting appetizers to sweet scrumptious desserts, the Japanese menu is a journey of culinary delights.

Top: Sekitei Teppanyaki. Above: Miyama Jyu Jyu Steak.

Kuro Kosho Salmon with black pepper

so good that you may want to possessively

on top of mayo. Half-grilled Aburi Salmon

guard your own plate without sharing. That

and the Dynamite Roll Salmon with a bit

would be understandable.

of a spicy kick are very tempting too. Crab

Senryo Genki Sushi

fans, try the Akairo Roll, Summer Roll or

Grand Indonesia West Mall

Rainbow Roll. For a bigger munch, take

Entertainment District 2

the Dragon Roll that has prawns and

Level 5 *03-03A, Jakarta


(021) 2358-0953

As for the sashimi, you’ll never get enough of their inexplicably delicious fatty




tuna. Coming as a delightful main or just as

Text and photos by Kathy Petite,

a side snack is the Tori Karage, small tiny

and courtesy Sekitei, Miyama, Senryo,

pieces of crunchy deep-fried chicken. It is

and Asuka.






CLICK N’ FLY Air France and KLM have launched their new mobile websites, and for mobile phones. Their respective free applications for iPhones are available via the iPhone App Store, and soon as well for BlackBerry via BlackBerry App World. With Air France and KLM’s mobile websites, available in six languages, travelers can for the first time ever worldwide, change tickets at no extra charge, as well as other interesting and convenient features. Passengers can thus adjust their bookings and arrange their new flights in just a few clicks. They can also check in, and also for all those traveling with them, choose their seat on the seat map, book their Siège Plus for extra legroom (on the Air France mobile site), or a seat in the Economy Comfort zone (on for mobile), and receive their boarding pass by SMS or e-mail, which travelers can either display directly on their mobile phone upon boarding, or print out at the airport.,

The Ambassador of New Zealand H.E. Mr. David Taylor, New Zealand Trade and Enterprise, and Indowines invited guests to attend a New Zealand Wine Tasting session on October 12 at The Wine House on Jl. Raya Kerobokan No.66. The following day, a screening of the New Zealand Film “Home by Christmas” was held at the 2010 Balinale International Film Festival and at a cocktail reception in honor of visiting New Zealand Actress Chelsie Preston-Crayford. The film screening took place at the Galleria 21 Cineplex of the Bali Galleria in Kuta, and the cocktail reception was held afterwards at Planet Hollywood.

HEROES’ JOYRIDE Dewata Harley-Davidson invites Harley riders and big bike enthusiasts to join in on their Dewata HarleyDavidson to Surabaya Pahlawan (heroes’) Tour, which revs up from November 11-14. For the Surabaya bike tour there will be featured an overnight stay in Malang and two nights stay in Surabaya. Rental bikes are available to the public who wish to join in on the tour. For further information contact Dewata HarleyDavidson’s Rental Department at (0361) 764-272. Dewata Harley-Davidson, Jl. ByPass Ngurah Rai No. 120 A-B, Kuta

PONTIANAK’S LATEST The Aston Pontianak Hotel and Convention Center has opened and aims to be West Kalimantan’s leading international 4-star hotel. Located in the heart of Pontianak just off Jalan Gajah Mada, the hotel features several superlative features such as West Kalimantan’s largest pillar-less ball room, a 1,000 square-meter exhibition hall, several modern and functional breakout rooms, a shopping arcade, a Chinese specialty restaurant, an attractive outdoor pool, and a full service spa with more than 33 treatment rooms as well as a dedicated entertainment floor containing 22 Karaoke suites. 56



Bali Tropic Resort & Spa

HOTELHIGHLIGHTS Bali Tropic Resort & Spa is an all-inclusive hotel that epitomizes the authentic Balinese architecture and style fringed by whitesand and crystalline sea--s. It combines nature, rejuvenating spa treatments, and a host of recreational activities to give you the ultimate tropical retreat... Perched gracefully between the ocean and the sky, embraced by the lush tropical landscape, resort serenity designed for indulgence, the ambience is definitely natural, a place of beauty beyond imagining. The resort offers 130 deluxe rooms, 14 royal bungalows and 3 2-bedroom suites, each featuring individually controlled air– conditioning, private bath/showers, satellite TV, IDD, minibars, and tea/coffee making facilities, safe deposit box. Vast choices for dining include three restaurants and four bars, serving international barbecue buffet dinner. Bali Tropical Spa has 10 treatment rooms with private shower and bathtub offering traditional massages, body scrubs, facial and other therapies to choose from.

All Inclusive Jl. Pratama 34A, Tanjung Benoa, Nusa Dua Tel: (62) 361 772130, Fax: (62) 361 772131 E-mail: Website:

Experience the authentic Balinese hospitality.

Pool Villa Club Sanur Beach Bali The Pool Villa Club at Sanur Beach Bali offers luxurious one-bedroom ocean view villas with direct beach access. Each villa with private terrace and its own 11m private pool also comes with a majestic bed, living and dining areas and expansive gardens with gazebo. The villas have fully equipped kitchens with breakfast bar, a spacious bathroom with Jacuzzi and walk-in wardrobes. Guests may take the option of dining at the gazebo while enjoying the beach and the ocean. Personal butlers provide personalized services. A perfect place for couples, families or to entertain friends. Sanur Beach Bali also features 426 rooms and suites, 2 large pools, a choice of restaurants and bars. Jl. Danau Tamblingan, Sanur 80228 Bali, Indonesia Ph: +62 361 288011 Fax: +62 361 287566

The Patra Bali

Resort & Villas The Patra Bali Resort & Villas is an 11 hectare five star resort in Tuban, offering one of the largest guestrooms in Kuta. All decorated in traditional Balinese style with exquisite wooden furnishings overlooking exotic tropical landscapes. The hotel has a warm and peaceful atmosphere and is ideal for total relaxation! The Resort has 206 rooms and suites, all beautifully appointed, with marble bathrooms and five-star amenities. There is a huge swimming pool right by the sea. The 22 Villas are a semi-boutique concept, giving extra privacy and luxury for families or couples. Many have private plunge pools, and they’ve all 24-hour butler service. Villa guests have their own huge seaside swimming pool and exclusive use of the Floating Heritage Lounge. The hotel offers more facilities like 4 restaurants, convention centers, a Kids club, Spa & Health club, a Beach Bar and free shuttle service to Kuta.

Jl. Ir. H. Juanda, South Kuta Beach, Kuta Tel : (0361) 751-161 Fax: (0361) 752-030

The location is ideal, a huge landscaped property on South Kuta Beach, directly on the Indian Ocean and next to the international airport. A 5-minute drive north brings you to the heart of Kuta’s shopping district.

The Dreamland Luxury Villas & Spa The Dreamland Luxury Villas & Spa is a new destination for those who want to experience the atmosphere of first class service with state of the art facilities. 42 Private Pool Villas are available with different categories; 1 bedroom suite villa, 2 and 3 bedroom family villas to meet every guest’s dream.

Jl. Raya Uluwatu, Br. Bakung Sari, Ungasan, South Kuta, Bali Tel. (0361) 708 199; Fax. (3361) 708 168 E-mail:

The Dream Spa is a fantastic hide away spa destination for the mind, body and soul. Featuring 3 Romantic Spa Rooms with double spa bed, shower, Jacuzzi, Sauna and spa locker. From the moment you enter into the resort’s lobby you can see the amazing Ocean Views, nice breeze, breathe in the fresh air, you can feel the sensation of the tranquil up hill environment. The Dream Spa is where a heavenly atmosphere invites you to relax, with an assortment of treatments invite you to indulge. Let the sensation of the Dream Spa’s atmosphere pamper and comport you soon. In the Ungasan village, high on the southernmost peninsula of the island of Bali. Ten minutes to Dreamland beach, from your villa by our free shuttle service. BALI&BEYOND NOVEMBER 2010 57

BEYONDUPDATES PAN PANAMA! Gran Meliá Jakarta is having an international food festival featuring Panama. Panamanian food is similar to other Latin American countries with Asian and African influences. Chef Pascual G. González. will be specially flown in from Panama to prepare his own unique and rich cuisine. As a land bridge between two continents, Panama is loaded with a variety of tropical fruits, vegetables and herbs that are used in native cooking. Panama’s cuisine is influenced by Hispanic, native Indian, African and Chinese cultures. Gran Meliá Jakarta, (021) 526-8080

SAIL MOROTAI The Indonesian government has declared Sail Banda 2010 a success. This has led to the declaration of a similar event two years from now. Besides taking the Banda Islands as an icon for the Sail Banda 2010, a similar event would also use Morotai Island as the icon for Sail Morotai 2012. The plan was submitted by the President himself in Ternate, North Maluku in August. The President was in Ternate during his working visit for the inauguration of Sail Banda 2010. In North Maluku, President Susilo Bambang Yudhoyono inaugurated Sofifi City as the capital of the North Maluku province. Morotai Island is in the northernmost province of North Maluku. This island is the outermost and adjacent to the Pacific Ocean. “Two years from now we will have Sail Morotai, so let us plan well in order to succeed and advance,” said the President to the applause of the people of Ternate. Let’s stay tuned for 2012.




Grand Hyatt Jakarta appoints Dale H. Parkington as the hotel’s new Director of Food and Beverage. Dale comes from a family of hoteliers and started his career in the hospitality industry in South Africa. In 2006 he moved to the Grand Hyatt Cairo, where he remained for almost a year in the same position before being promoted to Director of Food and Beverage at the Hyatt Regency Sharm El Shiekh in Egypt, a position he held for the past 3 years. Grand Hyatt Jakarta (021) 390-1234

The Surabaya Plaza Hotel celebrated its “Sweet SPH 17th Anniversary” on October 15. The festivities began when the General Manager, Resident Manager, and six department heads of SPH served guests during breakfast time at the restaurant. Joining in with the other wait staff, department heads of Sales & Marketing, Housekeeping, Front Office, Marco’s Salon & Spa, Engineering, and Human Resources joined in. This unusual event surprised the guests, who congratulated them cheerfully.

The Prime Plaza Road Show 2010 in Semarang was held at the Majesty Convention Hall on Jalan Gajah Mada, and was attended by more than 100 invitees from 50 companies and travel agents. The road show opened with a welcoming dance medley from West Java, Central Java, East Java and Bali, which reflect the locations where the Prime Plaza Hotels & Resorts are located, interspersed with a performance from the Prime Band, then continued with dinner and various door prizes.




Danoya Villa

HOTELHIGHLIGHTS Holiday in Luxury Offering a modern spin on traditional, tropical villas, the residences at Danoya Villa combine open-plan architecture with an Indonesian touch. They are stylishly furnished and offer all the benefits that are expected at a luxury resort. In addition to the advantages of the estate’s prime location, on-site five-star facilities are provided exclusively for guests. The villas cater perfectly for relaxation and pure indulgence. Poolside wooden sun beds are a feature of the stunning pools that are surrounded by tropical gardens. There are 24-hour security and reception, laundry services, free Wi-Fi in villas, business centre with free internet access, spa and massage in villa, drop off shuttle bus service to Legian and Seminyak areas, and airport transfers by request.

Jalan Batubelig 559, Kerobokan Kuta – Bali Tel: (0361) 735 305 Fax: (0361) 733 372 E-mail: Website:

Danoya Villa is only 10 minutes by walk to Batubelig beach, 5 minutes drive to famous restaurants such as Métis, Sardine, Warung Sobat, and Nuri’s; 15 minutes to the entertainment and shopping district of Seminyak; and 25 minutes to Bali Ngurah Rai International Airport.

Mentari Sanur Hotel The Mentari Sanur Hotel is tucked away down a small side street just off Jalan Hangtuah at the northern end off Sanur, Bali’s most enchanted village. Shaded by frangipani trees, this two-storey 28 rooms hotel offers the ideal combination of modern facilities and a charming Balinese atmosphere with family style hospitality and service. A large luxury private swimming pool is the right place for you to pamper your self and relax in a privacy atmosphere under a warm tropical sun. Tunjung Restaurant offers a combination of continental and traditional Balinese dining, cozy lounge is the area where you can sit down, relax, and bar will serves you varieties of drinks. Free exclusive broadband internet access. Located in a tranquil coastal village of Sanur make the Mentari Sanur Hotel is situated in an ideal location with immediate access to the main highway and just minutes from many great tourist activities and attraction, 25 minutes drive to the Ngurah Rai International Airport, 20 minutes drive to Kuta Beach, 5 minutes drive to the Sanur shopping area, 10 minutes drive to Denpasar and 30 minutes to Ubud.

Jl. Hangtuah III No.3, Sanur, Tel: (0361) 283-286, Fax: (0361) 283-017 E-mail: Website:

Maxi Hotel & Spa The Maxi Hotel & Spa is situated in the heart of Bali’s shopping and nightlife district. Centrally located, the property offers an ideal base for visitors wishing to explore Bali while keeping all the island’s best shops, bars, restaurants and beaches within easy walking distance. Hotel facilities and services include restaurant, bar, meeting room, massage and spa, room service, swimming pool with Jacuzzi, children’s pool, laundry and dry cleaning service, airport pickup and transfer, snack bar, tour desk, doctor on call, free car park, baby sitter upon request, broadband internet connection, major credit cards accepted, individually controlled air-conditioning, local and IDD telephone, satellite TV, daily mineral water, private bathroom with bathtub and shower, mini bar, personal electronic safe deposit, tea & coffee maker. The balcony overlooking the swimming pool and landscaped tropical garden offers a private area for relaxing. The hotel is less than 15 minutes from Ngurah Rai International Airport; 20 minutes drive to Denpasar, 30 minutes from Sanur, Nusa Dua and within 45 minutes drive to the artistic centre of Ubud and about 350 meters from Bali’s famous Kuta Beach.

Jl. Legian 83A, Legian Tel: (0361) 754-082Fax: (0361) 750-792 E-mail: Website:

Hard Rock Hotel Bali Asia’s first Hard Rock Hotel, covering a prime three hectares site at the heart of Bali’s entertainment and shopping district. This is the ultimate theme vacation resort with Hard Rock’s signature of limitless energy, unparalleled creativity and quality service - the perfect place to Rest, Relax & Rock! Hard Rock Hotel features 418 tribute rooms and luxury suites, alongside six cutting edge food and beverage outlets. A paradise for couples, families and singles. Situated at Bali’s famous shopping and entertainment district, Kuta, just 10 minutes drive from Bali airport, you’ll find that the Hard Rock Hotel offers more than just comfortable accommodation, it also blends tropical majesty with today’s modern luxury. Jl. Pantai, Banjar Pandai Mas, Kuta Tel: (0361) 761-869 E-mail: Website:






BUDDING DRAMA Gaya Fusion Gallery has invited the public to take part in a fun workshop and show for kids called Shakespeare’s The Tempest. A Shakespearean Romance. The Tempest is set in an exotic, fantastic location with themes of the supernatural and discovery. The workshop will culminate in a small play to be performed at the Gaya Fusion Gallery, creating site specific performance installations in unusual and exciting environments. In the children’s adaptation of The Tempest, participants will learn acting, how to perform Shakespeare, voice and movement for the stage, stage presence and ensemble play. The performance is to take place on November 28. Meanwhile, Gaya Artspace also presents an exhibition of art by Frederico Tomasi, through ‘Chapter 13’. The exhibition is to be held until November 13. Gaya Fusion, Jalan Raya Sayan, Ubud (0361) 979-252




This is what we recently got from the Rock Bar. What do Stevie Wonder, Sting, Bjork, Alanis Morissette, Sade and Tone Loc all have in common? They’ve all worked with Jez Colin, the multi-talented producer, songwriter, re-mixer, music programmer and musician whose latest album The Latin Project spent 5 weeks at number 1 on the CMJ (College Music Journal) RPM and Latin charts. His smash hit Lei Lo Lai was Billboard Dance Charts’ #1 song and the remix was nominated for a Grammy award in 2004. The album also features Terence Trent D’Arby, guitarist Marc Antoine and Brazilian vocalist Katia Moraes. Now, Jez brings his eclectic dance remixes to the Rock Bar for three sunset and late night sessions this month, including a special sunset session with his good friend Martin East, Rock Bar’s own resident DJ. Dates are Friday, November 26 from 5.30 p.m. and Saturday, November 27 from 9.30 p.m. Ayana Resort and Spa Bali, Jalan Karang Mas Sejahtera, Jimbaran (0361) 702-222;

ENTER A GLASS AGE BaliWood Resort Art & Culture Centre on Jalan Penestanan in Sayan, Ubud, is the venue for “The Glass Age”, an exhibition of fine art glass by ‘The Five Elements’ (Fire: Ron Seivertson, master hot glass sculptor/glass blower/project director and lead artist, Water: Julien Espagne, archaeologist, historical consultant, lead designer, glass flaking artist, Earth: Regis Anchuelo, master glass blower/sculptor, and Air: Francis Auboiron, lead hot shop assistant, glass blower/sculptor/engraver. The exhibition was recently opened on October 9, with openings to the public through December 29 (daily from 10 a.m. to 5.30pm). For further information, contact


Bali Jegeg Restaurant

Fortuin Cafe - Live & Fresh Grilled Seafood

ocated at the best hidden paradise in Munduk village, which is famous for their beautiful waterfall in North Bali, Bali Jegeg Restaurant is the only place to make your fantasy become real for having your meals while enjoying the nice view of mountains and ocean.



Surrounded by fresh air, amidst coffee and clove plantations, Bali Jegeg Restaurant is just a few minutes away from Munduk waterfall, so it is a perfect choice for you to have your meals after a trekking down to the waterfall.

Fortuin Cafe, in operations since 2001, is located at the Jimbaran Bay / Kedonganan Beach. A four months renovation program has recently come to a completion, and now it has a new look, throughout its design and interiors. Most important is that the service is up to international standards and yet with Bali hospitality and local nuance.

Bali Jegeg Restaurant Desa Munduk, Singaraja, North Bali (+62) 362 700 1634 or (+62) 877 62766 199 E-mail :

ts easy access to and from the highway, highlighted by its superb sunset cocktail and seafood dinner, Jimbaran Bay / Kedonganan Beach become a must visit dining destination while in Bali.

Besides being famous for their traditional Balinese coffee, Bali Jegeg Restaurant also serves Western and Indonesian cuisines such as Seafood Kebab, Sandwiches, Pasta, Bakmie, Nasi Goreng and many others at valuable prices. After enjoying your meals, do not forget to conclude it with a cup of the famous Balinese coffee. For sure it would make your day perfect. Only at Bali Jegeg Restaurant. For reservations, please dial: (0362) 700-1634 or (62) 877-62766-199


We also serve Special or Romantic Sunset Dinner Parties for birthdays, company gatherings, other occasions and wedding receptions.

Jln. Pantai kedonganan, Jimbaran Bay, Kuta – Bali Tel. +62 361 7893583 Fax. +62 361 702553 E-mail:

Ride the local outrigger, toast to the sunset and then enjoy your tasteful seafood dinner, grilled, fried, steamed or at your choice at Fortuin Cafe, The Chosen, at Jimbaran Bay / Kedonganan Beach. It promises an unforgettable time in Bali. Get 10% Discount by Direct Booking.

Bella Rosa Italian Restaurant

ucked in Legian’s most perfect hideaway of the Padma Resort Bali, Bella Rosa Italian Restaurant is open for dinner daily, serving the finest Italian cuisine from 17:00 – 23:00 hrs with an uninterrupted view of the beach and its spectacular sunsets.

T Contact Bali & Beyond Advertising Sales department for interesting offers that suits your promotional needs.

+62 361 8868601-2

An array of sunset drinks, pizzas and tapas are served daily at the Sunset Bar with live entertainment. All-you-can-eat Italian buffets / flavors of Italy are available on Monday and Wednesday nights from 18:00 – 21:30 hours at only Rp 195,000 ++ per person and with 50% discount for children under 12 years old available. Only in November, Bella Rosa is offering a free-flow of its housepour wine* (grape variety and vintage may vary from time to time and are subject to availability), local beers, soft drinks, juices, coffee and teas with an additional of Rp 200,000 ++ per person when you join our Flavors of Italy Buffet.

BELLA ROSA ITALIAN ESTAURANT @ Padma Resort Bali Jalan Padma no 1 – Legian, Kuta Tel: 62 361 752 111 ext.1806 E-mail:

With the stunning location and settings, Bella Rosa is available to cater small and private dinners at the terrace overlooking the beach while you’re enjoying the sunset or in the air-conditioned dining room. Dinner reservations are recommended.





THE TEMPER TRAP! The Temper Trap is bound for the stage at the Hard Rock Café Bali on November 10. The alternative rock band from Australia noted for its atmospheric sound and featuring grand guitars set to pulsating rhythms, was formed in 2005 in Melbourne, Australia with Indonesian-born vocalist and guitarist Dougy Mandagi, guitarist and keyboardist Lorenzo Sillitto, bassist Jonathon Aherne and drummer Toby Dundas. They are one of the most in-demand new bands in the world today. The BBC chose The Temper Trap for its top 15 Sounds of 2009; Sweet Disposition was the official soundtrack of the hit indie movie 500 Days of Summer and won Song of The Year 2010 in APRA Music Awards. Hard Rock Cafe Bali, Jl. Pantai Kuta, Banjar Pande Mas, Kuta (0361) 755-661

AN XMAS CHARITY The BIWA Christmas Charity Bazaar 2010 is to take place on November 7 from 9.00 a.m. to 6.00 p.m. at the Kuta Galleria Shopping Arcade on Jalan Patih Jelantik in Kuta. Around 200 stalls with wonderful arrays of merchandise, delicious food and beverages, a children’s corner, entertainment, fun and games, raffles and a silent auction are to be featured. Entrance is free to the public, and all proceeds from the bazaar will go to support the BIWA Social Welfare projects involved with women and children’s health and education in Bali. You can book now for Rp. 300,000 per table. BIWA Center Jl. Danau Tandakan No. 5, Sanur (0361) 286-564 62



BALI MEDITATES AGAIN The 2nd International Bali Meditators’ Festival (IBMF) is to be held from November 12-14 with the theme: “Vasudhaiva Kutumbakam: Living in Peace, Love and Harmony through Meditation”. The festival will be held in Ubud and is organized by the Anand Ashram Foundation, which was founded by Anand Krishna in 1991. Inspired by Anand Krishna’s own experience after being mysteriously relieved from leukemia, the center was aimed at introducing meditation as the foundation of holistic health, especially for those who lived in a big and busy city such as Jakarta. Main programs include plenary and panel sessions, with side events comprising workshops on meditation, an evening of devotion, Sufi Night, and a marketplace (bazaar), as well as free side events such as Yoga for Kids, percussion practices, and various community events. The festival is open to the public. International Bali Meditators’ Festival, Jl. Pura Mertasari 27, Sunset Road, Kuta (0361) 7801-595;







Discovery Kartika Plaza Hotel & Villas held its annual Oktoberfest 2010 from September 24-26 in a large tent alongside Jalan Kartika Plaza, located between the Discovery Shopping Mall and the Discovery Kartika Plaza Hotel. In the traditional spirit of Oktoberfest, guests enjoyed beers and authentic Bavarian specialties while indulging in unique games and winning door prizes to tunes from a live 12-member Humpapa Band. The fair was open to the public from 6 p.m. on the first day and from 10 a.m. on the last two. Oktoberfest is an annual festival, one of the most popular events with its origins in Munich, Germany from late September to early October. It is one of the world’s largest fairs with over six million people attending at special venues the world over each year. Discovery Kartika Plaza Hotel & Villas, Jl. Kartika Plaza, South Kuta (0361) 751-067;

Bali Clean Up Day, an environmental cleanup campaign supported by 31 non-governmental organizations (NGOs) was held on September 20 simultaneously in 19 separate locations throughout Bali, from north to south. Locations included Tejakula, Lovina, Bedugul, Ubud, Mengwi, Kuta, Kedonganan, Suluban, Padang-padang, Uluwatu, Nusa Dua, Tanjung Benoa, Benoa Harbour, Serangan Island, Padang Sambian and Sanur. Chairman of the committee, Nunie Kneip of the Rotary Club of Nusa Dua, said that the success of this activity is evidence that the people of Bali do care about the problems of plastic waste that not only threaten the tourism industry, but also the specter of the emergence of various disasters such as floods and disease.

RESPONSIBLE, SUSTAINABLE As part of a global initiative, the InterContinental Bali Resort celebrated its Responsible Business Day that highlights efforts that the InterContinental Hotels and Resorts around the world are carrying out to sustain and enhance their local area. In partnership with National Geographic’s Centre for Sustainable Destinations, InterContinental Hotels & Resorts properties regularly take part in activities that ensure their locations remain an appealing place to visit for future generations. InterContinental Bali Resort, the focus has been on re-enforcing the importance of motorcycling safety and helmets. Staff members as well as children from the upper grades of a local elementary school attended a morning seminar run by Bali’s Police Department, with an official launch of the resort’s Helmet Exchange Program. InterContinental Bali Resort & Spa, Jalan Uluwatu 45, Jimbaran, (0361) 701-888 64



SECOND EUPHORIA Joining the euphoria of its second ‘A|Club Anniversary’ celebration, the Sofitel Seminyak Bali held its ‘A|Magnifique 2nd Anniversary’ cocktail party at its Royal Villa. Decorated with traditional Balinese ornaments, these ‘A’|Club Ambassadors’ have brought ‘A|Balinese Village’ ambience into the venue. The cocktails started at 6 p.m. and guests were welcomed by traditional bamboo Rindik music. Special cocktails and traditional canapés were passed around for the members to enjoy. Embracing a Balinese Village theme, all invitees were requested to come dressed with a Balinese touch on their costumes and the best costume winner happily brought back a voucher for a 1 hour treatment at Le Spa and a bag of complete Sofitel souvenirs.


RECHARGE AT NIKKO Bali & Beyond and Nikko Bali Resort & Spa presented the Recharge Night - a Hospitality Industry Party on Friday, October 1 at the Nikko Bali Resort & Spa, inviting members of the island’s diverse hospitality industry - from travel agents, hoteliers, to public relations and market players. This episode of the Recharge Night was made possible with the support of Hatten Wines, Heineken, and Bali Moon Liqueurs. Nikko Bali Resort & Spa, Jl. Raya Nusa Dua Selatan (0361) 773-377;

TEE AT THREE After achieving the Indonesia Leading Golf Resort category in the recent annual Indonesia Travel and Tourism Awards 2010/11 presented by the Ministry of Culture and Tourism of Republic Indonesia and ITTA Foundation on September 21, New Kuta Golf and Ocean View celebrated its 3rd Anniversary along with a special ‘birthday present’. The anniversary celebration was held on Sunday, October 3 with guests attending in casual sporty attire, and with a gala dinner and award presentation ceremony. A golf tournament was held on October 2 and 3, with the previously expected 400 participants. It was also used as an opportunity to launch its new membership program with attractive rates and benefits. Golflink Resorts Pecatu - New Kuta Golf Jl. Raya Uluwatu, Pecatu, Jimbaran (0361) 8481-333;

FINE AT NINE The General Manager of The Samaya Bali, Mr. Ray Clark, together with the entire team of the resort invited all their in-house guests to join in on the celebration of their 9th Anniversary on October 2. Guests and staff were entertained by DJ Cozi and jazz music through the evening as food and drinks were served. Garuda Indonesia and Singapore Airlines also participated in this special event through various door prizes for the staff and guests. The Samaya Seminyak – Bali, Jalan Laksmana, Seminyak, (0361) 731-149 BALI&BEYOND




HELLO! INDONESIA Hello! - one of Hollywood’s foremost entertainment and celebrity magazines is now present in Indonesia, complete with news and update photos of local icons written in Bahasa Indonesia. September 25 saw a number of national celebrity invitees attending the Hello! Indonesia launch at the Pacific Place Jakarta in a dress code of ‘A Touch of Red.’ The launch was to have Paris Hilton among the attendees, but following her denial of entry to Japan, Paris was forced to cancel her Indonesian visit. Published under the MRA Printed Media a division of the MRA Group, Hello! Indonesia is expected to become the foremost guide for updated entertainment news. The Red Carpet Party also featured a mini fashion show and live entertainment from top national musicians and a host of celebrities.

DO RUN, RUN, RUN Hard Rock Hotel Bali held its annual Rock ‘n Run – The 10th Chapter on October 10. More than 350 participants turned out to ‘run for someone else’s life’. At 7.30 a.m., the 5K charity run was officially started by the district head of Kuta and accompanied by Mr. Andrew Khoo, the General Manager of Hard Rock Hotel Bali, with the start and finish in front of the Hard Rock Hotel Bali. On the same day, 25 children participated in a Kids Rock Coloring competition, which was also part of the charity event. In addition, an open to the public charity auction was held after the winners’ prize presentation ceremony. Proceeds from this year’s charity event were donated to help children in need of cleft lip and palate operations, distributed to Rumah Senyum “Smile House” through the Rotary Club of Bali – Seminyak. Hard Rock Hotel Bali, Jalan Pantai, Banjar Pande Mas, Kuta, (0361) 761-869;




THEY READ, SOME WROTE, ALL REJOICED The 7th Ubud Writers & Readers festival saw 135 writers from 27 countries converge in the village of Ubud from October 6-10. This year’s festival’s finest guests included, among others, Louis De Bernières, Anne Enright, William Dalrymple, Nam Le, Tabish Khair, Dede Oetomo, Noor Huda Ismail, Suad Amiry, Kris Saknussem, Ali Eteraz, Hande Altayli, Tony Maniaty, Pauline Nguyen and Mark Jensen. Various literary and cultural workshops, art performances and book launch highlights included some prestigious guests supporting the birth of some grand publications. The current Queen of Ternate, Her Royal Highness Jo Ou Ma Boki Ratu Nita Budhi Susanti Mangaloa, launched Toeti Heratis ‘Rainha Boki Raja: Sixteenth Century Queen of Ternate’. Thomas Keneally launched Kirsty Murrays ‘India Dark’ and Palestinian writer of ‘Menopausal Palestine’, and Suad Amiry launched ‘Nothing To Lose But Your Life: My 18 Hour Journey with Murad’. This year’s festival once again featured a ‘Tribute to Gus Dur’, a tribute to the late statesman, religious leader, pluralist and figure who was often referred to as the living symbol of the national motto, Bhinneka Tunggal Ika, unity in diversity, which was also taken as the theme of the festival. With Citibank as this year’s title sponsor, the festival’s closing ceremony was held at the Museum Antonio Blanco.




SKAL INTERNATIONAL BALI An International Association of Travel and Tourism Professionals Doing Business Among Friends BLOWN AWAY BY BREEZE IN SEMINYAK One Hundred and Two in Shade is the 2010 record number of skalleagues and guests who enjoyed a truly extraordinary lunch under the impressive high-top festive tent beachside on the lawn at breeze at SAMAYA. GM Ray Clark, DSOM Ika Dunn and the rest of the six member Skal team at the SAMAYA continue to top their own magic year after year. Chef and much more, Dean Keddell, produced a triumph of a menu with duck, black Alaska cod and wow panna cotta. The staff’s attention and service were impeccable. Cigar smokers and quite a few others lingered on well into the afternoon to enjoy the breeze at breeze. We can’t wait for next October to see how the SAMAYA can top this year’s lunch.

COMING EVENTS AT THE BEST VENUES IN BALI The 145 members of Skal Bali meet monthly for a great meal, fellowship, fun, networking and an opportunity to bond and get to know industry colleagues. On the calendar are:

November 5, Bali Dynasty Resort - Kuta A Magical Golden Christmas Ball — Saturday December 11 at Nikko Resort & Spa January 7, Melia Bali Villas and Spa Resort

ABOUT SKAL AND SKAL BALI Skal International the World’s largest travel and tourism organization, founded in 1934 in Paris, 20,000 members in 500 clubs in 90 countries. Members are industry management and professionals providing accommodation, tours, transportation and travel, maritime and other activities, attractions, restaurants, golf, spas, consultation and media. Skal Bali is the largest club in Southeast Asia and World Leader in Membership Growth Membership and Information Gede Juwena Telephone: 7840212, email:















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during these tours are sometimes beyond description. BaliQuad (using ATV’s

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shower and bath tub, hot/cold running water. Jl. Kresna, Ulun Tanjung, Legian,

arranged, combining both off-road tours in one great adventurous day.

Kuta. Tel: 754-038, 744-1282, 745-1600; Fax: 751-510

BaliQuad, Jl. Wirasatya VI No.9X, Suwung Kangin, Denpasar, Tel: 720-766;


Fax: 727-956;



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crossing jungles and driving through a traditional Balinese village. The views





■ CHILE: Jl. Jl. Pengembak Gg 1 No. 3, Sanur, Denpasar Tel: (0361) 756-781, Fax: (0361) 756-783 E-mail:

■ SWEDEN & FINLAND: Segara Village Hotel, Jl. Segara Ayu Tel: (0361) 282-211, Fax: 282-211 E-mail:

■ CATHAY PACIFIC AIRWAYS: Wisthi Sabha Building, 2nd Floor Ngurah Rai International Aiprort Call Centre: 0804-1-888888

■ CZECH REPUBLIC: Jl. Pengembak 17 Sanur. Tel: (0361) 286-465, Fax: (0361) 286-408 E-mail:

■ SWITZERLAND & AUSTRIA: Istana Kuta Galeria Blok Valet 2 No 12, Kuta Tel: (0361) 751-735, Fax: (0361) 754-457 E-mail:

■ CONTINENTAL MICRONESIA: Tel: (0361) 768-358, Fax: (0361) 768-369

■ FRANCE: Jl. Mertasari Gg. II No. 8, Sanur Tel: (0361) 285-485, Fax: (0361) 286-406 E-mail:

■ THAILAND: Jl. Puputan Raya No. 81, Renon, Denpasar Fax: (0361) 263-310 E-mail:

■ ROYAL BRUNEI: Tel: (0361) 757-292 ■ SINGAPORE AIRLINES: Jl. I Gusti Ngurah Rai, Airport Tel: (0361) 768-388, Fax: (0361) 768-383 ■ GARUDA: Jl. Jalan Sugianyar 5 Denpasar Tel. (0361) 227-824, Fax: (0361) 226-298 24-hour access: 08071-807-807 ■ MERPATI: Jl. Melati No. 51, Denpasar Tel: (0361) 235-358 Airport Tel: (0361) 751-011, ext. 5240/5242 Hotline: Tel: (0361) 722-740, 722-741 ■ MANDALA AIRLINES: Komp. Plaza Kertawijaya, Jl. Diponogoro No. 98, Denpasar Reservation Call center 08041234567 ■ NGURAH RAI AIRPORT: Tel/Fax: (0361) 759-761 ■ THAI INTERNATIONAL: Grand Bali Beach Sanur, Tel: (0361) 288-141 ■ QATAR AIRWAYS: Discovery Kartika Plaza Hotel, South Kuta Beach Tel: (0361) 752-222; Fax: 753-788. Wisti Sabha Building, 2nd Floor, Ngurah Rai International Aiprort, Tel: (0361) 760-274 Fax: (0361) 760-275 ■ DEPARTURE Arrive at the airport two hours prior to departure. A Rp. 150,000 international departure tax is required. Domestic departure fee is Rp 30,000. Residents pay an additional Rp. 2.5 million Fiscal tax for international departures, whereas holders of official tax registration (NPWP) numbers are Fiscal tax-exempt. Ngurah Rai Intíl Airport, Tel: (0361) 751-011

CONSULATES ■ AUSTRALIA, CANADA, NEW ZEALAND: Jl. Tantular No. 32, Renon - Denpasar 80234 Tel: (0361) 241-118, Fax: (0361) 221-195 E-mail: ■ BRITAIN: Jl. Tirta Nadi 20, Sanur, Denpasar Tel: (0361) 270-601, Fax: (0361) 287-804 E-mail: ■ BRAZIL: Jl. Raya Legian No. 186, Kuta Tel: (0361) 757-775, Fax: (0361) 751-005 E–mail:



■ GERMANY: Jl. Pantai Karang 17, Batujimbar, Sanur Tel: (0361) 288-535, Fax: (0361) 288-826 Email: ■ HUNGARY: Marintur, Jl. By Pass Ngurah Rai 219, Sanur. Tel: (0361) 287-701, Fax: (0361) 287-456 Email: ■ ITALY: Lotus Enterprises Building Jl. Bypass Ngurah Rai, Jimbaran Tel: (0361) 701-005, Fax: (0361) 701-005 E-mail: italconsbali ■ JAPAN: Jl. Raya Puputan 170, Denpasar Tel: (0361) 227-628, Fax: (0361) 265-066 E-mail: ■ MALAYSIA: Alam Kulkul Boutique Resort, Jl. Pantai Kuta Tel: (0361) 752-520, Fax: (0361) 766-373 E-mail: ■ MEXICO: PT Puri Astina Putra Building Jl. Prof. Moh. Yamin 1A, Renon, Denpasar Tel: (0361) 223-266, Fax: (0361) 244-568 E-mail: ■ NETHERLANDS: KCB Travel, Jl. Raya Kuta 127, Kuta Tel: (0361) 761-502, Fax: (0361) 752-777 E-mail: ■ NORWAY & DENMARK: Mimpi Resort, Kawasan Bukit Permai, Jimbaran Tel: (0361) 701-070, Fax: (0361) 701-073 E-mail: ■ POLAND: Jl. Raya Petitenget No. 11, Block I/C, Banjar Umasari, Kerobokan Tel: (0361) 732-165, Fax: (0361) 732-165 E-mail: ■ SLOVAKIA: Jl.Gunung Agung 93, Denpasar 80118 Tel: (0361) 426-171, Fax: (0361) 426-477 E-mail: ■ SPAIN: Istana Kuta Galeria, Blok Vallet 2, No. 11 Jl. Patih Jelantik, Kuta Tel: (0361) 769-296, Fax: (0361) 769-296 E-mail:


■ TIMOR LESTE: Jl. Prof. Yamin No. 4, Renon, Denpsar Tel: (0361) 235-093, Fax: (0361) 235-092 E-mail: ■ UNITED STATES: Jl. Hayam Wuruk 188, Denpasar Tel: (0361) 233-605, Fax: (0361) 222-426 E-mail:

HEALTH&MEDICAL Call an ambulance by dialing 118, but it is a lot more practical and quicker to hire a taxi. Most hotels have on-call doctors on standby. For “Bali Belly”, Lomotil and Imodium eliminate symptoms, but not gastro-related infections. A fever along with symptoms requires doctor-prescribed antibiotics. Drink as much liquid as possible. Isotonic drinks under various brand names are widely available and are known to replenish body hydration and replace fluids. For discomfort, diarrhea and cramping, drink strong, hot tea; avoid fruits and spicy foods. Some day-biting mosquitoes carry dengue fever, but this is not a problem in tourist areas. Bali is non-malarial and prophylaxis is not required. Mosquito bites, cuts or abrasions easily become infected in the tropics. Treat them immediately. Drink only bottled or boiled water. Peel fruit before eating; avoid raw vegetables except at reputable restaurants. Ice in restaurants is safe. Protect yourself from the intense equatorial sun. Use high SPF sunblock and a hat. AIDS and sexually transmitted diseases are increasing in Indonesia. Local sex workers have multiple partners from around the world. They are not checked for sexually transmitted diseases. Act responsibly and use condoms, available over the counter at pharmacies.

HOSPITAL ■ INTERNATIONAL SOS CLINIC: 24-hour emergency medical clinic services, medical evacuation, multilingual staff. Jl. Bypass Ngurah Rai 505X, Kuta 80361. Tel: (0361) 710-505, Fax: (0361) 710-515. ■ RUMAH SAKIT UMUM PUSAT SANGLAH (General Hospital): Jl. Diponegoro, Sanglah, Denpasar. Tel: (0361) 227-911/15.


Ubud, Tel: (0361) 976-659, Fax: 974-229. Jl. Pengosekan, Ubud, open daily 8 am-6pm. ■ ABIAN KAPAS: Tel: (0361) 227-176 East Denpasar. ■ ANTONIO BLANCO: Tel: (0361) 975-502, 975-551, Ubud, open daily 8 am-5 pm. ■ ARCHAEOLOGICAL MUSEUM: Tel: (0361) 942-352, Pejeng. Open 8 am - 3 pm weekdays. ■ GEDONG KIRTYA HISTORICAL LIBRARY: Tel: (0362) 25141, Jl. Veteran, Singaraja. Open 7am - 3pm Monday - Thursday, until Fridaynoon, closed on weekends. ■ GALLERY SENIWATI: Jl. Ubud Raya, Gianyar. Tel: (0361) 975-485 ■ MUSEUM BALI: Tel: (0361) 235-059, 222-680, Jl. Let. Kol Wisnu, Denpasar. ■ MUSEUM LE MAYEUR: Tel: (0361) 286-164, Jl. Hang Tuah, Sanur. Open 8 am - 2 pm, Tuesday - Sunday. ■ MUSEUM MANUSA YADNYA: Mengwi, open daily, but often unattended. ■ MUSEUM NEKA: Tel: (0361) 975-074, 975-034, Jl. Raya Campuan, Ubud open daily 9 am - 5 pm. ■ MUSEUM PURI LUKISAN: Tel: (0361) 975-136, 971-159, Jl. Raya Ubud, Ubud, ■ MUSEUM RUDANA: Tel: (0361) 975-779, 976-479, Peliatan, Ubud. ■ MUSEUM SUBAK: Tel: (0361) 810-315, Jl. Raya Kediri, Desa Sanggulan, Tabanan.

TOURIST INFO. ■ INTEGRATED TOURISM INFORMATION CENTER (ITIC) A one-stop tourist information complex of ten provinces in Indonesia comprising Bali, Lampung, Jakarta, Banten, West Java, Central Java, East Java, Jogjakarta. Jl. Raya Kuta 2, Kuta, 80361; Tel: (0361) 766-188 ■ NGURAH RAI INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT: Tel: (0361) 751-011 ■ BADUNG GOVERNMENT TOURISM OFFICE: Jl. Kuta Raya 2, Kuta Tel: (0361) 756-175/76 ■ BALI GOVERNMENT TOURISM OFFICE: Jl. Supratman, Niti Mandala, Renon, Denpasar Tel: (0361) 222-387 ■ SINGARAJA TOURIST INFORMATION OFFICE: Jl. Veteran 23, Singaraja Tel: (0362) 251-41 ■ UBUD TOURIST INFORMATION SERVICE: Jl. Raya Ubud, Gianyar Tel: (0361) 96-285, 973-285; 8 am - 9 pm.







Bali & Beyond Magazine November 2010 edition  

"The Sun... The Sand... The Surf... The Culture of Paradise... and Over 18,000 Surrounding Islands"