THE SUN... THE SAND... THE SURF... THE CULTURE OF PARADISE AND OVER 18,000 SURROUNDING ISLANDS
BALI & BEYOND JANUARY 2009 VOLUME 11 NO. 104
SEMARANG SIGHTS ELSEWHERE IN THE CITY OF SEMARANG; FROM THE GEDONG SONGO HIGH ON THE RUGGED SLOPES OF MOUNT UNGARAN TO A SPRAWLING CHINATOWN DOTTED WITH TEMPLES...
NEW YEAR NEW LOOK
START YOUR YEAR, AFRESH! FIND THE CAPITAL CITY’S MOST RECOMMENDED REMEDIES TO REFRESH YOURSELF BEFORE STARTING A WHOLE NEW 2009!
TAKE ME TO CHINATOWN
77 0 2 1 6 4590 60
NEW & NEWS • INFO INDEX • MAP OF BALI • CLASSIFIED COLUMNS BALI&BEYOND
teamtalk 01.09 NOT SO BEACHED RESOLUTIONS ‘Om Swastyastu...’ Very well then… where should we start? Something smells fresh here, doesn’t it? Indeed! We take on a fresh start with a refreshed look. Just months before the turn of the year, we started to get our hands on some adjustments with the magazine’s layout and contents, and at last are able to present to you Bali & Beyond in its current new form. We hope you and our valuable readers elsewhere will like it. As we recall, after some significant outline bashing back in 2005 from its previous form, we were able to present it in a handier guise, half the initial size.
Talking about shores, our editor did enjoy some brief ‘leisure’ time in the pristine islands of Derawan, just off the coast of East Kalimantan, just before we were to face the grim deadlines for this edition. Here, he’s pictured with the island in the background enjoying being ‘beautifully stranded’ in the Celebes Sea. He’ll be sharing some scenes and tales from here, and highlights the fast-developing Tarakan island-city has to offer, in a following edition’s Beyond Bali. He wishes to thank Pak Jusuf SK, Mayor of Tarakan, Pak Ery Sugiarto, Head of the Tarakan City Cultural and Tourism Government Office, and Pak Mustafa Joehanes of the city’s regional development planning board for the opportunity.
contributors Tim Hannigan first came to Indonesia to surf the world class waves of Bali, but it was the potential for adventure on dry land that really got him hooked. Ve Handojo is a travel writer with no mission to change the world. Loving Jakarta just the way it is somehow inspires him to write and rant on vehandojo.com Fiona (aka Lois) Simon shares her thoughts on the Big Bike phenomenon encountered in Bali. Not your average Balinese scooters... Flip to Action & Attractions page 38.
In this edition, you’ll see some of the changes to our format from last year. For those of you new to the island and our magazine, we hope you delve into the pages and enjoy!
And now, we thought, time had come to move on and shape up again – yet this time, more on the page presentation and layouts. Same passion, same enthusiastic team, new horizons. Thus, we are proud to say that we have fulfilled part of our last year’s resolutions for - a bit of - change. As we know, a New Year’s Resolution is a commitment one makes to an endeavor or the reforming of a habit, often a change that is generally advantageous. They normally go into effect on New Year’s Day and remain until fulfilled… or beached. We made it ashore in that case. 6
First is a feature on various ‘New Years’ beyond the Gregorian calendar. Contributor Supardi Asmorobangun shares some odd calculations. Celebrate Chinese New Year at the end of this month. For some Chinese cuisine, Belinda Rose-Innes takes you to a place where Chinese means ‘fresh’, ‘delicate’, ‘simple’ and ‘simply delicious’. And Tim Hannigan takes you elsewhere in Semarang; from the rugged slopes of Mount Ungaran to a sprawling Chinatown dotted with temples. We wish you a solemn “Welcome to Bali” and of course, a very “Happy New Year!” All the best for the year ahead, and always, keep safe. Happy reading! ‘Om Shanti Shanti Shanti Om…’ ■ The Team
Belinda RoseInnes has been writing for magazines and marketing companies the last decade -intends to keep doing it the rest of her life. Supardi Asmorobangun, former executive editor of the magazine, now enjoys a prolific and freelance life... though, at times still with deadlines. Vincent Herry is an avid photographer. His portfolio at vincentherry.com spans many styles and angles, from fashion to culture, indoors and out.
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Contributors SUPARDI ASMOROBANGUN, VE HANDOJO, TIM HANNIGAN, VINCENT HERRY, BELINDA ROSE-INNES, LOIS SIMON, TRIONGGONO, WASTI Jakarta Marketing Services/Subscription Tel: (021) 315 2683/84, 391 0969 Publisher PT. BUMI DIAN KUSUMA Commissioner SOETIKNO SOEDARJO Director MAULANA INDRAGUNA SUTOWO Division Head MRA Printed Media INDRIATI WIRJANTO Pre Press PT. DIAN RAKYAT BALI Printing PT. SUBUR JARINGAN CETAK TERPADU, JAKARTA OFFICE Jl. Bypass Ngurah Rai 120 C / Lt. 2, Kuta, Bali 80361 Tel: (62-361) 764 274, 752 684 Fax: (62-361) 762 096 E-mail:firstname.lastname@example.org http://www.baliandbeyond.co.id Bali & Beyond Magazine is published monthly by PT. Bumi Dian Kusuma under the direction of MRA Media, Jakarta. Although every care is taken, neither the publishers nor any of their designees assume responsibility for the opinions and information expressed by editorial contributors. All material in this publication is copyrighted and cannot be reproduced without written permission of the publisher or author. All trademark and rights to Bali & Beyond are reserved by PT Bumi Dian Kusuma. Editorial materials may be submitted for consideration to the editorial office. Bali & Beyond is not responsible for the return of unsolicited material. ÂŠ 2006 Bali & Beyond ISSN 0216-4590
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contents 01.09 THE SUN... THE SAND... TH E SUR F... T HE CULT URE OF PARADISE AN D OVER 18,000 SURROUN DIN G ISLA N D S
PHOTO BY TIM HANNIGAN
January 2009 Volume 11 No. 104
20 CRAFT&CULTURE NEW YEARS AROUND THE NEW YEAR New Year 2009 is more than just another new year, especially for the Balinese and people beyond the paradise island.
26 INVITE&INDULGE TAKE ME TO CHINATOWN If you’re eating at places like Chinoiserie, Chinese means ‘fresh’, ‘delicate’, ‘simple’ and ‘simply delicious’.
PHOTO BY TRIONGGONO
BEYONDBALI SEMARANG AND THE GEDONG SONGO From the Gedong Songo high on the slopes of Mount Ungaran to a Chinatown dotted with temples.
THE SUN... THE SAND... THE SURF... THE CULTURE OF PARADISE AND OVER 18,000 SURROUNDING ISLANDS
BALI & BEYOND JANUARY 2009 VOLUME 11 NO. 104
SEMARANG SIGHTS ELSEWHERE IN THE CITY OF SEMARANG; FROM THE GEDONG SONGO HIGH ON THE RUGGED SLOPES OF MOUNT UNGARAN TO A SPRAWLING CHINATOWN DOTTED WITH TEMPLES...
NEW YEAR NEW LOOK
START YOUR YEAR, AFRESH!
contents 01.09 THE SUN... THE SAND... THE SURF... THE CULTURE OF PARADISE AND OVER 18,000 SURROUNDING ISLANDS
January 2009 Volume 11 No. 104
FIND THE CAPITAL CITY’S MOST RECOMMENDED REMEDIES TO REFRESH YOURSELF BEFORE STARTING A WHOLE NEW 2009!
TAKE ME TO CHINATOWN
77 0 2 1 6 4590 60
NEW & NEWS • INFO INDEX • MAP OF BALI • CLASSIFIED COLUMNS BALI&BEYOND
DANCE FOR LIFE Ni Ketut Cenik, a Balinese dancer maestro proving that at 89 years old, she is still the best.
Serene Sunrise Photo by: Vincent Herry Location/Courtesy: The Oasis Boutique Beach Resort, Benoa Cover design: Weniar Pramesti
34 PONDERINGPOINT ELATED, ELECTIONS In Indonesia lately, what are those colorful flags, banners, posters and faces at every corner all about? 36 ACTION&ATTRACTIONS THE LAST BASTION OF COOL There’s a certain sound a HarleyDavidson makes. A thunderous roar that screams, “Get out of the way, I’m coming through”. COURTESY PHOTO
62 SEE&SEEN Snapshots of events and happenings within the preceding month.
FANCY A SPA?
Find Jakarta’s most recommended refreshing remedies before starting a whole new 2009. JANUARY 2009
12 NEW&NEWS This month’s select news updates from the island’s tourism industry and what’s new around the island.
58 COMMUNITYCALENDAR Schedules, calendar highlights and various happenings of interest, from art exhibitions to special events.
+ 54 BEYONDUPDATES News updates from the tourism industry and what’s new beyond Bali.
70 BALIMAPS Map of Bali showing specific tourism areas and places of interest, as well as a distance scale between the island’s main destinations. 73 CLASSIFIEDCOLUMNS Listings and product descriptives from various clientele. 74 INFOINDEX Useful directory of companies and island-based businesses.
THE INDONESIA OPEN, from the annual co-sanctioned European Tour and Asian Tour event since 2005, moves to Bali, February 26 - March 1, at the New Kuta Golf Resort. Boasting Indonesia’s richest prize purse for a sporting event, the Indonesia Open immediately follows the Johnny Walker Classic in Perth, Australia, held in the preceding week, and a week before the Thailand Open, thus ensuring the participation of some of Europe’s and Asia’s best players. Total prize money on offer is US$ 1.25 million, increased from US$ 1.2 million last year. New Kuta Golf, Jl. Raya Uluwatu, Pecatu Indah Resort, (0361) 8481-333
BALI SAFARI & MARINE PARK recently launched their new Elephant Back Safaris. Pachyderms take you on a 30 minute ride around the park. Visitors wanting a more natural adventure can now cross the ‘African Village’ filled with several native animals such as the white rhino, oryx, wildebeest, zebra and ostriches. This daily program runs at special schedules and is at US$59 for adults and US$39 for children under 12 years, includes free drinks and hat. 50% of the charged fees go to the park’s fauna conservation/education programs. Bali Safari & Marine Park, Jl. By Pass Ida Bagus Mantra Km19.8, Gianyar, (0361) 950-000
PHOTO BY NYOMAN ARI GUNADI
TO TEE OFF!
HOLLOW’S ‘N HIDEY-HOLES BALI ECO ADVENTURE BAYAD introduces its newly discovered cave labyrinth over 1,500 meters in length. The ancient cave, known by the name Goa Maya, built approximately 750 years ago and initially served as irrigation channels, is assumed to once act as a hideout for villagers during the Dutch occupation and the anti-communist unrests in 1965/66. Bali Eco Adventure Bayad, (0361) 901-874; www.baliecoadventure.com 12
ONE GLOBE ONE FLAG Bali Creative Power 2008 closes with an international poster exhibition. The “One Globe One Flag” poster exhibition under collaboration between Asosiasi Desainer Grafis Indonesia (ADGI) Bali Chapter and the Bali Creative Community runs through January 5 at the Exhibition Hall of the Garuda Wisnu Kencana Cultural Park in Jimbaran. The exhibition features around 40 posters themed with global unity, the works of various Indonesian and international graphic designers, which all aim to increase awareness of the importance of togetherness in facing the world’s various multi-dimensional challenges. ‘One Globe One Flag’ is a concept which appreciates international differences, be it social, cultural or geographical, that spawns understanding for a better world. www.balicreativecommunity.org
REFRESHED! GRAND HYATT BALI has completed its extensive US$35-million renovation program, which included a previous total facelift of its rooms and suites, the Grand Club, the Lobby and three of the resort’s restaurants, and the addition of new facilities, including the Kriya Spa and a second Grand Ballroom. Set within 41 acres of beachfront and exotic tropical gardens in the prestigious Nusa Dua area of Bali, this crown jewel of Hyatt International’s resorts in Asia Pacific has been revitalized to surpass the original glory evident when it opened in 1991. Grand Hyatt Bali, Nusa Dua, (0361) 771-234, www.hyatt.com
TAKE ON.... THE LAGUNA, a Luxury Collection Resort & Spa, Nusa Dua, Bali newly appoints Jacinta Townsend as Director of Marketing. Jacinta has enjoyed a successful career with Starwood Hotels & Resorts spanning almost 20 years with several properties across the region. These include Sheraton Brisbane Hotel & Towers Australia, Sheraton Langkawi Beach Resort Malaysia and Royal Orchid Sheraton Hotel & Towers Thailand. Prior to her appointment with The Laguna Resort & Spa, Jacinta was part of the pre-opening and opening teams of Grand Millennium Beijing, China in the capacity of Director of Marketing. The Laguna, a Luxury Collection Resort & Spa, Nusa Dua, (0361) 771-327 14
FIRST, NEW GENERATION Alila Villas Uluwatu is slated for opening in April. Perched upon an elevated plateau along the southern coastline of Bali, Alila Villas Uluwatu is the first all-villa property in a new generation of Alila Hotels & Resorts properties. Alila Villas Uluwatu offers 56 one-bedroom villas in addition to 7 three-bedroom villas, each with its own pool and private pavilion with panoramic views over the Indian Ocean. Designed by award-winning Singaporean architectural firm, WOHA, all villas showcase contemporary interiors enhanced with touches of nature and traditional Balinese accents reflected in planes of wood, water, stone and rattan. The Warung and The Restaurant, Alila Villas Uluwatu’s two restaurants, are helmed by executive chef Stefan Zijta, former executive chef of the Anouska Hempeldesigned Shy in Jakarta, and prior to that, sous chef at Vermeer, a two Michelin starred restaurant in Amsterdam. Spa Alila at Alila Villas Uluwatu will have 5 deluxe spa suites, offering guests a variety of customized treatments unique to Spa Alila in a relaxed and contemporary environment. www.alilahotels.com
THAI TASTES.... Anantara Seminyak Bali presents neoauthentic Thai cuisine at Wild Orchid. Wild Orchid presents flavors from four Thai regions: north, northeast, central and south. Thailand’s cuisine balances sweet, sour, hot and salty with unique flavors. The resort introduces Thai Chef Master; Chef Jiranan Sangngoen, who has also opened a Thai Cooking class. A ‘wine talk’ helps choose a matching wine from the wine cellar for the menu to be cooked. On completing cooking the special Thai meals, guests and their partner will be served their creation along with a bottle of wine. Anantara Seminyak Resort & Spa, Bali (0361) 737-773
Conde Nast’s 21st Annual Reader’s Choice Awards were announced for 2008 by U.K. magazine Condé Nast Traveler, with the island of Bali and a number of hotel operators earning places on the prestigious ranking of the world’s best. Bali is best island in the Asia-Indian Ocean or the second in the world after Maldives. Two hotels in Bali entered the Top 100 Hotels Worldwide: Four Seasons Resort at Sayan at 16th place and Four Seasons Resort at Jimbaran Bay at 57th place. In the Top Resorts Asia were Four Seasons Resort at Sayan, Four Seasons Resort at Jimbaran Bay, The Ritz-Carlton Bali, Resort and Spa, The Oberoi, and Alila Ubud Bali. www.cntraveller.com
Quiksilver Indonesia has re-signed Tipi Jabrik. The 31 year old Legian local has signed a 3 year deal with Quiksilver SE Asia that will see him lead the surf team on the Coca-Cola ISC Tour in Bali and throughout the archipelago. Tipi’s surfing career started with the Quiksilver Grommet contest in the early 90s. He said that to be part of the company again and to help grow the lifestyle together is really exciting, and giving back to the community by keeping the beaches clean and safe is what it is all about. “That makes it even more special.” Coca-Cola Indonesian Surfing Championship Tour www.isctour.com
Results of the recent HAPA (Hospitality Asia Platinum Awards) awards in Kuala Lumpur, with a total of 35 winning categories saw Bali bringing home the most wins of all South East Asia. ‘South East Asia’s Most Innovative Western Cuisine Restaurant’, ‘Indonesia Restaurant of the Year’ and ‘Destination Restaurant of the Year’ went to Mozaic, ‘Kind of Kitchens’ went to Chef Made Putra of The Laguna, ‘Most Passionate Western Cuisine Chef’ went to Chef Andrew Skinner of the Bulgari Resort Bali, ‘Gastronomic Experience - Asian Cuisine’ went to Rajas at the Nusa Dua Beach Hotel & Spa, ‘All Day Dining’ went to the Jimbaran Gardens at the Intercontinental Bali Resort, ‘Service Excellence’ went to The Samaya, ‘Resort of the Year’ went to the Bulgari Resort Bali, ‘Signature Mice Hotel’ went to The Westin Nusa Dua, ‘Signature Luxury Resort & Villas’ went to the Bulgari Resort Bali, ‘Signature Boutique Resort & ViIlas’ went to COMO shambhala Estate at Begawan Giri, and the ‘Signature Resort Spa’ award went to the Spa at Maya, Maya Ubud. www.hapaawards.com
“KAMPAI!” InterContinental Bali Resort announced the recent appointment of Ms. Ena Kimura as Sales Manager. Born in Tokyo, Japan, Ena has a diverse background that ranges from studies in the USA to international culinary training to positions in several popular restaurants and cafés in central Tokyo. However, it was her love of the sea that brought Ena to Bali in 2001 to work for a reputable diving academy. In addition to teaching PADI Dive instruction in three languages, Ena also assumed complete responsibility for Japanese guest relations, marketing and managing the company website. Ena first joined InterContinental Bali Resort in 2005 as Japanese Guest Relations Officer and within a matter of months she proved instrumental in the team and was promoted to the role of Manager in the same department. InterContinental Bali Resort, Jalan Uluwatu 45, Jimbaran, (0361) 701-888
Allure Batik recently opened its 8th boutique in Seminyak after successfully opening seven boutiques in Jakarta and Singapore. For 3 years Allure has creatively progressed in bringing batik to the world. Allure preserves traditional batik by presenting them as modern, contemporary, yet elegant and exotic at the same time. The opening of the 8th boutique in Bali was also marked by fashion shows which took the theme “Exotic Nuances of Batik” featuring eight models (six female and two male models). The island of Bali as a main tourist destination was considered the perfect place to market its collections. At the grand opening before the turn of the year, various batik collections were presented in a fourpart fashion show, among them featuring Elegant Drapery, Alluring Rainbow, and Romantic Glam. Previously, Allure Batik has marketed its unique batiks in Singapore. Now it aims at the world. Allure Batik, Seminyak Square 2nd floor, B – 9, Seminyak, (0361) 738-039
RIPPIN’ YEAR AHEAD Rip Curl has announced its event schedule for the year. The Rip Curl Gromsearch series start off February 8 in Lombok, and will continue March 8 and April 5 in Padang, Sumatera and Lakey Peak, Sumbawa. The Rip Curl West Sumbawa Pro takes place May 10-20. The fourth Gromsearch is to commence July 5 at Cimaja, West Java, and the fifth on September 13 at Medewi Beach, Bali. Bali will further host most of the remaining events, namely The Rip Curl Padang Padang, August 1-31, the RC National Training Camp, Gromsearch National Final and the Rip Curl Surf & Music Festival which all take place in the month of October. Finally, the Rip Curl Art & The Search Festival will close the year’s agenda on November 27 in Jakarta. www.ripcurl.com 18
PHOTO BY TRIONGGONO
NEW YEARS AROUND THE NEW YEAR
The Balinese Hindus celebrate their very own ‘New Year’ – that of the Pawukon calendar on January 3. Meanwhile, Muslims worldwide will have just celebrated their Hijra New Year on December 29, at the turn of the Gregorian year.
NEW YEAR 2009 IS MORE THAN JUST ANOTHER NEW YEAR, ESPECIALLY FOR THE BALINESE AND PEOPLE BEYOND THE PARADISE ISLAND.
eyond the Gregorian
since the calculation was born around the
school temples. In Denpasar, thousands
calendar that most
year 1000 AD, we may assume that we
and thousands of students would be
people worldwide follow,
should today celebrate the ‘Year 1750s’.
praying at the Jagadnatha (‘Juggernaut’,
the Balinese rely on their
Uniquely enough, every ‘month’ of
from Sanskrit Jagannatha, literally
own calculation of days
the Balinese calendar also comes with
“protector of the world”) temple, across the
and especially religious
its own zodiac sign, complete with stellar
main city street of Gajah Mada – Surapati.
matters on two very important calendars,
calculations and their impact on someone
In the dawn of Sunday, January 4,
their own developed calculation of the Bali-
who is born under such a star. One who
you will see them purifying themselves by
Javano calendar, better known as Wuku
is born in the first month, Sinta, more or
taking dips at the nearby beach, rivers or
or Pawukon, and the Indian Hindu Caka
less from January 3 - 9, is believed to have
other water sources, in order to cleanse
Year. Weddings, temple anniversaries,
a hard personality, always looks younger
their body and mind so that they are ready
village ceremonies, cremations, erecting a
than his or her age, yet rarely lives a long
to enter the new cycle of the Wuku.
house, planting rice, and even slaughtering
life. The second zodiac, Landep, is said
animals, each must be done on the right
to influence those born under it to have a
of Pagerwesi, four days after the ‘New
day, as sanctioned by their calendar. Only
calm personality, to be loved by his or her
Year’. Pagerwesi, or Pageresi as it was
modern administrations such as schooling
friends, and to be fairly smart people. I was
originally known, verbally means the ‘fence
and national holidays follow the Gregorian
born in the 18th month of Merakih and my
of scientist-priests’. Wednesday, January
life is challenged with… ‘water’. I learned
7, is the day to honor the ‘scientists’, who
diving to anticipate it!
in the past were certainly the priests, for
The Balinese calendar is totally different from the majority of the worlds
This January 3rd, people all across
No less important is the celebration
they were the ones who protected valuable
calendar system, be it Jewish, Chinese or
the island are celebrating the holy Hindu
Japanese. The Balinese year consists of
day of Saraswati, the date marking the
knowledge from being wrongly abused.
30 months; every month comprised of only
arrival of the first of the 35 Wuku, in
the Balinese will celebrate the same ‘new
7 days. Thus, you may conclude that the
which Shinta, the goddess of science
year’ on August 1, 2009.
Balinese mark a one-week period as one
and knowledge, is honored with a grand
month, thus one year only consists of 210
ceremony, suggesting that science is a very
calendar calculations for most of their daily
days. Strangely enough, no year is marked
important element in the Hindu system.
ritual ceremonies, a version of the Indian-
with numbers, so there is no “Year 1”. Yet,
Schoolchildren are seen gathered in their
based Caka Gregorian calendar does exist.
Since the number of days is 210 a year,
Although the Balinese rely on the Waku
CHINESE NEW YEAR, IMLEK 2560, FALLS ON JANUARY 26 THIS YEAR. IT IS THE MOST IMPORTANT OF THE TRADITIONAL CHINESE HOLIDAYS. THIS CHINESE NEW YEAR SEES THE TURN INTO THE ‘YEAR OF THE OX’. 22
The Balinese calendar is totally different from the majority of the world’s calendar system, be it Jewish, Chinese or Japanese. The Chinese New Year itself, is also referred to as the ‘Spring Festival’ and is the most important of the traditional Chinese holidays. It is sometimes also called the Lunar New Year, especially by people outside China.
This particularly applies for the annual or
Did You Know?
But scholars believe, that since a
yearly based celebration. Nyepi (Caka)
In fact, the Caka calendar was the true
Roman emperor had his birthday on
New Year, to be celebrated on March 18
version of the calendar as opposed to
January 1, he insisted on applying his
of 2009, is one among the ceremonies
the one applied in most Arabic, Egypt/
birthday as the acclaimed ‘New Year’.
based on the Caka calendar. Uniquely, the
Babylonian and even European territories
Strangely enough, we accept the wrong
Balinese combine the solar and lunar system
until the earlier centuries of the Roman
calculation up to this day. Even though
to determine their Caka solar-based new
Empire. It was the calendar that marked
there was no such month of July in the
year. Thus, every year, the celebration shifts
their new year in March, the month where
earlier calculations, Emperor (Gaius)
sometime to the second half of March or
the sun is “Marching” right above the
Julius Caesar insisted that his name
early April, for it has to be when the three
equator from the south to the northern
be included in the calendar. Today, the
heavenly bodies, the Earth, the Sun and
hemisphere (blame your teacher though,
Gregorian calendar is actually a remake
the Moon are at their closest proximity, that
it is not the sun that travels, rather
(installed by Pope Gregory XIII in 1582) of
is, on the New Moon. Confused with the
the earth’s “irregular” rotation that
the Julian calendar, where his name was
calculations? You are not alone...
the seventh month. BALI&BEYOND
PHOTO BY NI LUH DIAN PURNIAWATI
What Happens in 19348 AD?
The religious movement is locally
Muslims worldwide also celebrated
known as Hijra, literally ‘migration’, thus
their ‘New Year’ around our… new year.
the Islamic calendar is known accordingly,
December 29, 2008 marked the arrival
as ‘Year H.’, such as ‘H.1430’.
of (Hijriyah) H.1430. Unlike the Gregorian
This tika (calendar chart) is sprawled across the wall of Bangbang Gede Bayu’s (grandson of original Balinese calendar maker Bangbang Gede Rawi) residential bale pavilion.
Since the amount of days in one year is
system, the Muslim calendar is based
12 days shorter than the Gregorian, Islam
on the movement of the moon, the lunar
has now already celebrated their 1430th
already developed their own calculations,
system. Thus, a one year of the Islamic
year, 578 years behind the Gregorian, from
basing their idea neither on solar nor lunar
year is equal to 254 days, not 266 days,
formerly a 622 difference when it was born.
systems, albeit religions, rather on a larger
for the moon revolves every 29.5 days
God knows, by year 19348 (17,348) years
macrocosm. The Milky Way possibly? Or
from now, the two religions shall celebrate
at least Mars or Venus, which they well
The Islamic Calendar is not centered
the same year; from then on the Islamic
may have conquered and be living there,
upon the birth of its founder, Muhammad,
year is leapfrogging the Gregorian. How
and believe a truly new ‘universal” calendar
in the year 57, but by taking the date when
come? Simply, because the Islamic year
accepted by all inhabitants of the heavenly
he and a group of followers migrated
marches a year faster every 30 Gregorian
bodies should govern the new worlds, the
from the city of Medina to his birthplace
earth and beyond. Only heaven (and the
of Mecca as the day 1 and Year 1 that is 622 AD. 24
Nevertheless, the generation that survives in year 19348 perhaps will have
heavens) knows! ■ Text by Supardi Asmorobangun
WON’T YOU TAKE ME TO CHINATOWN? 26
Chinese food still suffers from a bad rap – ‘MSGladen’, ‘greasy’ and ‘unhealthy’ are just some of the terms often used. Well, not any longer, Confucius say. Not if you’re eating at places like Chinoiserie anyways, where Chinese means ‘fresh’, ‘delicate’, ‘simple’ and ‘simply delicious’.
If Greg C. Lawrence weren’t a fabulous chef, he’d be a “kick ass funk bassist sporting a cool Afro and orange-striped bell bottoms.” It’s perhaps fortunate for both the world’s taste buds and fashion
sensibilities that food proved to be a bigger passion than the bass guitar. A passion that is now manifest in the Chinoiserie Restaurant & Lounge, which Greg has just
WON’T YOU TAKE ME TO CHINATOWN?
opened on Sunset Road. A trip to Chinoiserie promises two things: one of the best meals you’re likely to have in Bali, (indeed anywhere in the world), and a meeting with one of those fascinating characters about whom books are written. Think Shantaram, only Singaporean, much better looking, and without the jailbreak episode. BALI&BEYOND
Top left: Cucumber Martini, White Bloody Mary, and Strawberry Basil Martini. Above: Scallop, Seafood Nori Wrap, Fish Cake Stuffed with Salt Egg.
The menu at Chinoiserie is primarily Chinese, but “Chinese with a twist,” offering great, light food – authentic Singapore-Chinese cuisine with a modern approach – in a contemporary surrounding with nonintimidating prices. 28
Greg, a chef/restaurateur and bar builder/consultant, who’s helped set up a
Sole rolled up with minced salmon with a whipped ginger-coconut meringue.
number of restaurants around the world
His innovative approach sees
including the first ever Cajun restaurant
Chinoiserie offering things like Sake
in Singapore, has a lot of stories to tell. If
sambals, fresh lobster in a traditional
truth be known, he can talk the hind leg off
Chinese sauce, snapper and sour plums,
a donkey. He’s never boring though. and
cucumber vodka, white fungus dessert,
more to the point, the man can cook! Greg
and gingerbread espresso. Seriously…
is a magician in the kitchen.
These things actually taste good? No. They
Some of his concoctions may initially seem worthy of a Mad Hatter’s tea party.
taste unbelievable! The menu at Chinoiserie is primarily
This is the man who, after all, has been
Chinese, but “Chinese with a twist,”
known to use a chemistry set in the
explains Greg. “We offer great, light food
kitchen to distill fruit and vegetables to
– authentic Singapore-Chinese cuisine with
make clear juices – such as a mango and
a modern approach – in a contemporary
bok choy drink, of all things. This is the
surrounding with non-intimidating prices.”
man who, even though allergic to seafood
The twist comes with the surprising
himself, imagined into reality a dish called
additions of completely non-Chinese
‘Dover Sole Roulade’ – a fillet of Dover
dishes. Things like one of Greg’s own
Throw in a bit of Chinese Feng Shui and you can rest assured that every effort has been taken to make this dining experience a relaxing, happy one – in stomach and spirit.
favorite meals, a Pork Vindaloo made from his grandmother’s recipe. “There are no rules in my kitchen when it comes to flavors and recipes,” laughs Greg. “Focus, but no rules. As long as the food is easy to understand, with each flavor standing on its own yet making sense when put together with the other flavors, I’ll put anything on a plate!” Given this statement, what is the worst possible thing anyone could ever present to Greg on a plate? “Anything that hasn’t been checked for freshness, or pork intestines!” Cooking since he was about four or five, Greg was always destined to be a chef. “Everyone in my family cooks; my Grandma especially was a fantastic cook – the kind that doesn’t measure. And my Grandfather used to drag me to the market on Sundays, making me miss my Spiderman cartoons. He taught me how to buy veggies, meat and seafood. Then, he would carefully plan to leave me with all the shopping and give me the ‘if we get separated, rendezvous at home’ line. So I would go home and start learning all about preparation. This meant having to sneak looks in the kitchen because my Grandma was VERY strict in the kitchen and with her recipes. Thank goodness my Mum got a chance to learn everything… she was more generous with recipes and info!” Now Greg is sharing that generosity at Chinoiserie with a menu that makes for difficult ordering – it’s all so good. The chili lobster in particular is paradise for your palate. The restaurant is also one of those places that inspires evenings that linger and linger, turning into early mornings, chatting on ridiculously comfortable chairs bathed BALI&BEYOND
The restaurant is also one of those places that inspires evenings that linger and linger, turning into early mornings, chatting on ridiculously comfortable chairs bathed in the twinkling light of candles and fresh air coming off the rice paddies just beyond. Left: Pork Ribs braised in Coffee.
in the twinkling light of candles and fresh
kitchen really having a good time, no matter
plans to be open for lunch, with a Dim
air coming off the rice paddies just beyond.
how busy,” are what inspire him. Throw in a
Sum menu available. ■
Greg knew his restaurant was a good
bit of Chinese Feng Shui and you can rest
Text by Rose James, photos courtesy
place for hanging out when one customer
assured that every effort has been taken
of Greg Lawrence
fell asleep after dinner in his oversized
to make this dining experience a relaxing,
‘business class’ chair! This type of reaction,
happy one – in stomach and spirit.
and “looking out the kitchen window
The Chinoiserie Restaurant is currently
■ Chinoiserie Restaurant & Lounge
and seeing tables of people eating and
open for dinner from 5pm Monday through
Jalan Sunset Road No.7, Kuta, Bali
not talking, and the guys and girls in the
Sunday. Starting this month, Greg also
Dance for Life
When we grow older, people associate old age with weakness and powerlessness. But if we think the opposite, being old can also mean steadfast and mature. Ni Ketut Cenik, a Balinese dancer maestro, proved that in her 89 years of age, she is still the best.
etut Cenik was born in 1920 in the Batuan village of Gianyar. She learned to dance when she was 15 years old. She had no master to
teach her, but she often sensed something improper, for example when her teacher showed a slow or less enthusiastic movement. But to find the best teacher was impossible for her as she was very poor, though she still had a strong desire to one day make her dreams come true. So just by observing a dance taking place, she was able to follow the movements. She could feel the vibrations from the gamelan so when she heard it, her body just moved along with the gamelan sounds. This gave her the ability to perform any Balinese dance, including the difficult Joged Pingitan. Joged is a social dance which is very popular in Bali. The movement patterns are active and dynamic. Joged is a unification of Legong, a classic Balinese dance that has complex movements, 32
PHOTO BY NI LUH DIAN PURNIAWATI
Ketut Cenik still teaches the children
and the Kekebyaran, a dance that is of a
a ceremony the next day. She was so
merry and dynamic character. Among the
friendly, welcoming us with a large smile.
in her neighbourhood and foreigners
characteristics of the Joged is that it may
She has not many daily activities except
who are interested in the art. She also
be improvised. Joged is for couples. The
dancing, as the daily household activities
fulfils invitations. The last invitation was in
dancer who is a woman invites men in the
are done by her grandson’s family. Once
August 2008 in Japan. She was invited
audience to join in on the dance.
a week she teaches children at the Agung
by Networking for Balinese & Asian
Rai Museum of Art (ARMA). She often
Performing Arts to celebrate 50 years of
different role that other Joged general
dances in temple ceremonies. Dancing, as
dances. It is called Pingitan because there
it is, can also be considered another form
are some parts of the dance that are
Meanwhile, Joged Pingitan has a
‘secluded’ or ‘hidden’ (pingit). The so called
Her grandson’s wife told us her
Her regular performances can be seen in Umah Kodok Stage, Banjar Pekandelan, Batuan, Gianyar every evening each month
hidden part is when the pengibing or invited
grandmother will suffer a headache if one
on the 1st and 15th. On the stage she
men dancers are only allowed to dance
day were to pass without her dancing.
dances with her family, Made Djimat (her
equal the female dancer’s movements, but
Ketut Cenik opened her eyes widely
son), Nyoman Budi Artha (her grandson),
he is not allowed to touch her. The dance
pretending to be angry at the comment,
and I Gede Agus Hendra (her great-
is usually based on Prabu Lasem’s story or
but then she smiled and said, ”Nak saja
grandson). The stage is owned by Made
some part of the Calonarang epic. History
mula keto (that’s true).” She loves dancing.
Djimat under the Yayasan Tri Pusaka Sakti
has it that the Joged appeared around the
She married I Nyoman Reneh who is also
art foundation. ■
year 1884. In the beginning, this dance
a dancer, and has passed on her talents to
Text by Ni Luh Dian Purniawati,
was only performed before the king and the
the next generations.
dancers were his mistresses. Nowadays,
For her, dancing requires collaboration
it is hard to find a dancer who can dance
between the five senses; not only the
the Joged Pingitan because of the highly
bodily movements but also the entire
body and soul must be one in the dance.
When I visited her at her house, Ketut Cenik was busy preparing offerings for
■ Tri Pusaka Sakti Art Foundation
It needs totality to bring the dance to life.
Totality is her principle.
ecently, spread all over
system it has held elections only 10 times.
Indonesia is a somewhat
The first election was in 1955, 10 years
vivid ambience. Colorful
after the Indonesian Independence Day,
was amidst a monetary crisis. Riots broke
signs can be seen at
which was joined in by many political
out in some parts of the country. Students
almost every corner.
parties. This was the only election
mobilized in demonstrations. Finally,
The minute you exit
during the leadership of the charismatic
Soeharto resigned and was replaced by
Indonesian President Soekarno.
then Vice President B.J. Habibie. This
from the Ngurah Rai International Airport’s gates, you’ll be able to view rows of flags,
The next election was held in 1971
banners, and posters and… smiling faces.
under Soeharto’s leadership, followed
None of these flags or banners are
Soeharto, including in the election of 1997. Change came in 1997-1998. Indonesia
lasted until the next early election. In 1999 Indonesia had a new president, Abdurrahman Wahid, or more widely
welcoming signs or promotional media for
known by his nickname ‘Gus Dur’. After
overseas tourists. They are promotional
that, the election circle ran back to normal,
tools for something far exceeding the
every five years.
objectives of mere commercial products,
Now Indonesia has had 6 presidents,
and are part of shaping the country’s
each a different character. There was
future. The flags and banners show the
also a woman president, Megawati
nation’s different eligible parties and the
Soekarnoputri, who will again run for her
various posters show the faces of the
party, the Indonesian Democratic Party for
people’s representative candidates from
Struggle or Partai Demokrasi Indonesia
each of the parties.
Perjuangan (PDI-P). Other candidates are
Yes, this year is a monumental year for
coming forward, with or without a party’s
the Indonesian people. It is the tenth time
support. This is still in discussion, about
Indonesia will be holding a democratic
independent candidates who have not had
gathering. This is the time for the
the support of any party.
Indonesian people to participate in steering
Whatever the discussions result in, it will
Indonesia’s future by deciding on qualified
not be an obstacle for this big democratic
representatives for parliament.
event that will happen in early April of
Through the elections, the people will not only decide on their representatives but also the president. It is the second time Indonesia will hold a direct presidential election, as the first was in 2004. Indonesia has had election systems which differ from those of other countries. The Indonesian elections occur every five years to elect the House of Representatives or Dewan Perwakilan Rakyat (DPR) members for the regency, provincial, and national levels directly. At the same time people will also decide on the region’s Representative Council or
this year. About 38 qualified parties are
Yes, this year is a monumental year for the Indonesian people. It is the tenth time Indonesia will be holding a democratic gathering.
media. People start to talk about these
campaigning to gain more support. Some presidential candidates have had their advertisements spread across the mass issues everywhere, in the home, in cafes, even in offices and during lunch time. Such an important moment it is. Overall, it sounds like people need to know how will the elections be going, and will it be safe? Gede Pitana, once Director of the Bali Tourism Authority, in a conversation with Bali & Beyond was optimistic that the event will proceed safely and smoothly.
Dewan Perwakilan Daerah (DPD). Both the
President Susilo Bambang Yodoyono has
House of Representatives and the region’s
called upon some ministries to discuss the
Representative Council will be members
matter. He expressed his hopes for a safe
of the People’s Consultative Council or
by the 1977 elections. The next election
and smooth election process that highly
Majelis Permusyawaratan Rakyat (MPR),
ran routinely every five years and was
respects democratic values. That is the
which is the highest body in the country.
only joined by three parties. The election
reason why the government has allocated
A few months later, the people will again
only voted for members of the House of
enough funds to secure the election.
go to the polls to decide on their President
Representatives. The People’s Consultative
We do hope this democratic process
and Vice President directly.
Council then would elect the President and
will run soundly. The people look forward to
Indonesia is 63 years old now, and
Vice President. “By coincidence” in every
a better future. ■
because of the unstable governmental
election, they always gave full support to
Text by Ni Luh Dian Purniawati
THE LAST BASTION OF COOL Indulging in the Easy Rider Experience
here is a certain sound that
absolutely nuts, or so I’m told by Pak Agus
of the 10 big bikes on hire from Pak Agus
a Harley Davidson makes
at the Dewata Harley-Davidson rental
and the team. What you would sacrifice
when you start it up. It’s
shop, located in the heart of Kuta.
in speed (let’s face it, Bali doesn’t boast
a kind of thunderous roar
“When we go up into the villages the
any Autobahn type superhighways) would
that screams “get out of the
dogs go crazy,” he says. If it’s a head
certainly be made up by the bucolic
way, I’m coming through”.
turner of a sound for the average human,
scenery the Bali heartland is famous for.
You’d think the people at Harley Davidson
I can only imagine what canines, with
had almost patented that sound, so iconic
an advanced sense of hearing, must
if you can show you can handle a big
Self-riding hire bikes are available
has it become. It’s a lesser known fact
experience. Mad dogs aside, it must be
bike and provided you have either an
that that explosion of sound drives dogs
a pretty unique outing sitting astride one
international licence for overseas visitors BALI&BEYOND
Clearly the local market loves this type of Bali escape, with the largest proportion of riders coming from Jakarta. Of the overseas visitors, Australians top the list and from time to time there are special requests from overseas bike clubs. a “C” licence for domestic visitors. But I
All the favourite destinations are on offer;
clubs. I’m thinking the local market is a
think it would be more interesting to join
Ubud, Bedugul, Kintamani and Tanah Lot
fairly elite crew with the 24 hour rental fee
a guided sightseeing tour in order to fully
to name a few. You may not be going fast
ranging from 1,000,000 rupiah through
appreciate the Bali back roads. Four hour
but the journey and the stunning sights
to 1,800,000 rupiah (depending on the
and eight hour trips are on offer, each
will more than compensate for that.
type of motorbike). Ownership of the
hosted by a guide and a back rider. For
Clearly the local market loves this
motorbikes is a different kind of club
those unaccustomed to the particular
type of Bali escape, with the largest
altogether, with new motorbikes quickly
challenges of riding in Indonesia; dogs,
proportion of riders coming from Jakarta.
relieving you of between 200 to 600
potholes, chickens, building materials and
Of the overseas visitors, Australians top
million rupiah. Then there’s the on-going
delicate old ladies taking up a portion of
the list and from time to time there are
maintenance to consider with new tires
the road, this would seem a safer option.
special requests from overseas bike
setting you back a cool 2,000,000 rupiah.
I’m beginning to think these are a select
open road. Perhaps that’s the lure of the
few members who have a deep love for
super modified bikes. I can’t for the life of
these bikes and even deeper pockets.
me imagine them out on the Bali byways
Pak Agus and his team keep on top of
dodging motorbike eating potholes and
their maintenance with a commitment to
flooded lanes; these are just for looking
replacing the rental motorbikes every two
at and drooling over. For certain they
years. It’s a labor of love I guess, as the
would make a super stylish centre piece
bikes need to be kept in mint condition
for an upmarket club or shop in the likes of
to ensure peak performance and safety.
downtown London, New York or Tokyo.
All rentals come with proper helmets and
So, in Bali at least, we’ve come a long
riders are asked to wear long pants and
way from the days of the easy rider and
closed shoes (unlike some of the bare-
leather clad gangs. The new age Harleys
headed shirtless surfing crowd we see
are the playthings of the platinum card
carrying brigade, but for sure they remain
Motorbike groups from overseas also
the last bastion of cool. ■
head to Chopper Heaven on Jalan Dewi
Text by Lois Simon, photos courtesy of
Sri in Kuta to indulge in the free riding
respective motorcycle dealers
habit. Pak Rakasiwi and his team host tours around the island from their stock of Harley Davidsons. Motorbikes are also on sale some with some pretty stylish modifications done in Yogyakarta. Although not in the rental market, Kick Ass Choppers (you gotta love that name!) over in Canggu has some head turning modified motorbikes that lure you into their stylish showroom. The window display
■ Dewata Harley-Davidson Jl. By-Pass Ngurah Rai, Kuta (0361) 764-272; firstname.lastname@example.org ■ Chopper Heaven Jl. Dewi Sri 7X, Kuta, (0361) 763-244 email@example.com ■ Kick Ass Choppers
showpiece is all shining chrome metal and
Kompleks Petokoan Semer Jaya
spit polished paintwork, far too artistic to
Jalan Raya Kerobokan (0361) 847-5535
even imagine getting down and dirty on the
SEMARANG THE GEDONG SONGO
Semarang might not offer the instant attractions of Yogyakarta, and the Gedong Songo might not rank among the wonders of the world, but this littlevisited corner of Central Java is well worth a detour to escape the crowds â€“ and to see some of the most beautiful landscapes in Java. 42
s the orange glow of the sunrise gradually spreads to the east and the wisps of mist clear from the steep pine forest-covered slopes, a spectacular
view opens. Below the red rooftops of the hamlet of Duran the mountainside falls away through terraces of cabbages and onions â€“ exotic vegetables here in Indonesia which only grow in the high altitude cool. Through the pale haze that cloaks the valley below, palm-lined ridges and amphitheatres of green rice can be made out, and further to the south the Rawa Pening Lake catches a dulled reflection of the morning sky. Beyond that, rising stark above the streaks of cloud
Opposite page: the domed Dutch church, Gereja Blenduk, in Semarang’s old colonial district. Above: inside the Thay Kak Sie temple in Semarang. The city has a large Chinese population and many temples.
that blur the landscape of Central Java, is
visitors every day, fifty kilometres to the
the great purple cone of Gunung Merbabu,
north the older temples of Gedong Songo
a 3000-metre high mountain. Loitering
rarely make it onto visitors’ itineraries. They
behind it, it is just possible to pick out the
might be small in stature compared to the
smoking summit of Gunung Merapi, the
splendours to the south, but those who
most active volcano in the area, while to the
make the effort to follow the steep road
right another pair of huge conical mountains,
through the cabbage fields will be amply
Gunung Sumbing and Gunung Sundoro,
rewarded. The Gedong Songo occupy
seem to float on a sea of white haze.
one of the finest positions anywhere in
Closer at hand the sunlight begins to streak
Java, high on the rugged slopes of Mount
in Javanese. The name might cause
through the pine trees, lighting the intricately
Ungaran looking out over that mighty vista
modern visitors to scratch their heads
carved stonework of the ancient Hindu
of volcanoes. And while Borobudur and
– there are only six temple groups spread
temples, known as the Gedong Songo, that
Prambanan swarm with sightseers from first
over the slopes above Duran village, and
lie scattered across this high hillside.
light every day, if you visit during the week,
though some of the groups contain several
chances are you’ll have the Gedong Songo
individual structures, no count will reach a
tally of nine. It seems that the early Dutch
While the World Heritage Site temples of Prambanan and Borobudur in the southern part of Central Java attract hundreds of
Gedong Songo means “Nine Buildings”
surveyors who first mapped the site in the BALI&BEYOND
Top: the temples of Group Three have some of the finest statues in their wall niches. Above and opposite page: details of the carvings on the Gedong Songo temples – well preserved after 1200 years. Above right: a busy traditional market in Semarang.
the finest of the early Hindu temples in
condensed milk, up through the narrow
Java. Their design – rising tiers, an inner
terraces where hill folk work tending plots
chamber, and decorated facades – was
of vegetables. The first of the temples is a
a prototype for the classic Javanese
bulky building with a yoni – cosmic symbol
architectural style that reached its greatest
of femininity – in the gloomy inner chamber
heights at Prambanan, two centuries later.
(its male counterpart, the lingam, is
And in their remote location, up in the cool
missing). But the best carvings are further
pine forests, the Gedong Songo temples
up the hillside at the second and third
19th Century made a mistake and the name
have survived remarkably well for more
temple groups. Here there are carvings of
that they gave the “nine” buildings was later
than 1200 years.
the elephant-headed god Ganesh and the
translated into Javanese for local maps.
The temples lie at the end of a narrow
goddess Durga looking out from niches in
But the locals around Gunung Ungaran had
lane some seven kilometres from the
the walls, the craftsmanship still obvious
another more evocative, and more accurate,
pleasant hill resort of Bandungan. A path
after more than a millennium. The backdrop
name for the place: Candi Banyukuning, the
leads from the entranceway with its cluster
of pine-clad slopes makes an atmospheric
Temples of the Yellow Water.
of simple cafes serving tasty sate kelinci
setting, and the faint scent of sulphur in the
The Gedong Songo temples were
(skewered rabbit kebabs with peanut
air adds to the otherworldly atmosphere.
built in the 8th Century and are some of
sauce) and hot coffee sweetened with
The source of the smell is in a nearby
The other temples stand beyond the hot springs, on a steep ridge surrounded by trees... the early morning sunlight first falls after dawn; the view across the valley at its best.
ravine where geothermal energy from the active volcano behind the temples sends acrid smoke hissing from cracks in the rocks and brings yellow-tinted water bubbling to the surface in shallow, steaming pools. The colour of this naturally heated water is the source of the old local name for the temples. A small swimming pool has been built at these hot springs. The waters are said to have healing properties and on weekends locals from the coastal city of Semarang and beyond make the journey up into the pine trees to bathe here. On a weekday afternoon though, you can enjoy this natural spa treatment alone for the princely sum of 5000 rupiah. The other temples stand beyond the hot springs, on a steep ridge surrounded by trees. This is where the early morning sunlight first falls after dawn, and it is from here that the bird’s-eye view across the valley is at its best. There are more fine carvings, and inside some of the buildings you’ll find offerings of leaves and petals and a little pile of incense ash, a sign that long after the great Hindu kingdoms of Java faded from the scene, someone still venerates these sacred places. With their stunning, atmospheric location it’s easy to see why. ■ Text & photos by Tim Hannigan BALI&BEYOND
CENTRAL JAVA TEGAL
CENTRAL JAVA WONOSOBO PURWOKERTO
HOW YOU CAN GET THERE You can get to the Gedong Songo
Red-tiled roofs and arched doorways
temples from the popular tourist town of
still offer a faded echo of the older
Yogyakarta, less than three hours to the
quarters of Amsterdam. The finest
south. But the nearest city is Semarang
of all the old buildings is the 18th
on the north coast, just 45 minutes
Century Immanuel church, better
away. Semarang is often overlooked by
known as Gereja Blenduk, the
guidebooks and tour routes. It is true
Church of the Dome.
that the city has none of the royal palaces
One of the most atmospheric
and artistic highlights of Yogyakarta and
of all Semarang’s colonial relics is
Solo, but it is one of the oldest cities in
the venerable Toko Oen restaurant.
Indonesia, and it is a good place to see
Inconspicuous on a busy street,
traces of a different side of Java’s history.
once through the doors you are back in
and old women praying before gold statues
the 1930s – the decade when the place
of the Buddha – and needless to say there
in colonial days, and in the narrow streets
first opened. With old wooden furniture,
is some fine Chinese food.
around its winding river there are some of
slow-turning ceiling fans, top-notch ice
Semarang might not offer the instant
the finest examples of Dutch architecture
cream, and tasty homemade cakes and
attractions of Yogyakarta, and the Gedong
anywhere in the country. Sprawling in
biscuits from tall glass jars, it’s the perfect
Songo might not rank among the wonders
either direction from the thoroughfare of
place for afternoon tea.
of the world, but this little-visited corner
Semarang was an important trading city
Jalan Jendral Suprapto are alleys lined with
Elsewhere in the city there is a sprawling
of Central Java is well worth a detour to
old shops and warehouses with stocky
Chinatown, dotted with temples full of red
escape the crowds – and to see some of
columns and high shuttered windows.
and black tones, pungent incense smoke,
the most beautiful landscapes in Java.
FANCY A SPA? As the New Year unrolls... and the hectic metropolis beats with life again for a whole new beginning... Why not take the chance to unwind and loosen up for a fresh start? 48
Opposite page: spa amenities at Bimasena. This page, clockwise: the Ayuslomi Ritual at Bima Sena; spa products at Borobudur; and Chocolate Ritual at Bimasena. Page 52: Spa at Four Seasons Jakarta. Page 53: Spa Suite at Bimasena. Page 54, clockwise: Harnn & Thann spa lobby; Harnn & Thann Spa Suite; and Facial Treatment at the Spa at Four Seasons.
â– INDIGENOUS BLISS AT HOTEL BOROBUDUR CLUB & SPA
a luxury other hotels can only talk about:
overstretch their muscles and break their bones
The healthy break starts early in this
of huge trees. Flowers of many colors,
chasing some big
place, and although the gigantic Hotel
chirping birds, and the view of half Olympic
fortune. So it is simply
Borobudur complex is situated amidst
size swimming pool will ease your mind.
fair to cut yourself some
the most heavily jammed traffic of Central
slack at a fancy-dancy spa suite. Find the
Jakarta, the atmosphere is pressure free.
rbanites in Jakarta
capital cityâ€™s most recommended remedies
Exiting from the hotel building, the path
the air made fresh by the natural filtering
The spa frees itself from upscale luxury. Without taking too much of a cut from your hard-earned salary, the Borobudur
for refreshing yourself before starting a
to the health club is through an expansive
Club & Spa goes the Indonesian way to
whole new, fresh 2009!
evergreen park. Opt for the longer route to
give your body and mind a total break.
reach the club, and let your feet work for a few minutes. Allow yourself to breathe
The remedial Balinese Boreh will wrap your body in a hot sensation, thanks to BALI&BEYOND
Just get the basic Javanese or aromatherapy treatments and say the password: “super strong”. the mix of herbs and spices – nutmeg,
energy generating treatment, choose the
pepper, cloves, Javanese long pepper,
Balinese coffee and ginger body scrub.
ginger, curcuma Heyneana and rice
Jl. Lapangan Banteng Selatan,
powder. The ancient Javanese royal
Jakarta, (021) 380-5555
treatment Lulur is made of a rice powder fenugreek, curcuma heyncana, then softly
■ ORGANIC THAI AT HARNN & THANN
colored with turmeric. It makes you feel
Thailand might be in chaos, but the
rich and naturally perfumed. For a more
people will always find solace in their local
base ground up with Chinese myrtle,
spa products and treatments that have
Treatments range from traditional Thai
Plaza Senayan Arcadia, Level 1,
gone global, such as Harnn & Thann. The
using the warm herbal press to a quirky
South Jakarta, (021) 579-010-56
Harnn brand is like a conservative and
beer bath that can cure your hangover by
Kemang Icon, Level 5, Jalan Kemang
traditional elder sister to the fashionable
following the “fight fire with fire” principle.
Raya No.1, South Jakarta,
and modern Thann. However, they are both
Attractive discounts are available through
organic, eco-friendly, and have conquered
membership program or credit cards, so it
more than 20 countries in the world.
will only cost you around Rp 450,000 for a
They have two joints in Jakarta. The one in Plaza Senayan Arcadia has a
2-hour package that includes a foot bath,
■ FIVE-STAR PUNCH AT FOUR SEASONS JAKARTA
massage, facial, and milk bath.
Why waste a fortune for a nonsense
contemporary look and is dark in color.
Using only organic ingredients and
massage inside a five-star hotel? The
All the treatment rooms are for couples,
bottled in recycled plastic or glass, Harnn
masseurs do it so delicately you won’t
but singletons can use them individually.
& Thann spa products are great to bring
even feel a thing, and you’ll soon be lulled
The other one in Kemang, called Thann
home. Try one, and you’ll end up talking
into sleep. By the time you wake up, the
Sanctuary, is sterile white and follows the
about it to your in-laws like a multi-level
bill comes in five digits, and her eyes are
rules of minimalism.
expecting a generous tip. BALI&BEYOND
■ TOTAL GETAWAY AT THE BIMASENA SPA
The Ayuslomi Ritual combining Indian
more than just comfortable, luxurious, pampering, and tranquil. It also cures.
The Bimasena Spa has three private
hot stone massage, golden caviar facial,
Hardcore relaxation junkies should ask for
suites you will actually want to live in. Each
hydrotherapy bath, Scotch shower,
the male masseurs whose politeness and
of them comes with a vanity desk, sauna,
and anti-ageing eyes and lips contour.
punches compete with royal guards of
steam bath, and whirlpool, and you can
Treatments can go on for as long as four
the Keraton. Just get the basic Javanese
use these suites for a half or a full day.
hours, at around Rp 1,400,000, including a
The Spa at Four Seasons Jakarta is
or aromatherapy treatments and say the
One of the spa’s signature packages is
Ayurveda with Hawaiian Lomi Lomi Nui,
light meal. By far, The Bimasena Spa offers
the 2.5-hour Chocolate Treatment, which
the most exclusive spa package for the
starts with a white chocolate body butter
best bargain in town.
also offers an extravagant indulgence, the
massage followed by chocolate cinnamon
Jl. Dharmawangsa Raya 39,
Healing Crystal. For sixty minutes your
body scrub, dark chocolate body mousse,
Kebayoran Baru, South Jakarta,
body will be massaged using warmed
chocolate and champagne whirlpool, and
(021) 725-8668 ■
crystals, but this luxurious affair is tagged
ends with an organic chocolate body lotion
at only Rp 400,000.
and lip balm. You’ll feel so delicious you’ll
Jl. HR Rasuna Said, South Jakarta,
want to lick yourself!
password: “super strong”. To balance the merciless kick, The Spa
Actually, The Bimasena Spa has it all;
(021) 252-3456 52
Text by Ve Handojo, photos courtesy respective spa establishments
Australia and Indonesia successfully coordinated its third fishery patrol on illegal fishing in the Arafura Sea. Australian Ministry of Home Affairs, Bob Debus, said the operation took eight days from November to December 2008 and showed a cooperative approach to protect the AustraliaIndonesia exclusive economy zone from illegal fishing. The patrol involved Australian customs ship Triton and Hervey Bay, Indonesian fishing ships Hiu Macan 001 and 002 and coastal guard airplanes. Australian Embassy Jakarta, Jl. HR Rasuna Said Kav C 15-16, South Jakarta, (021) 2550-5555; www. indonesia.embassy.gov.au
FASHIONABLE SELECT Internationally renown designer Ika was invited to be one of the panel of judges in an Anniversary celebration of Review Asia Magz. Selected three of Hongkong “Asia Most Beautiful People” were Michael Wong, Flora Cheong Leen, Alice Chiu. Followed in the picture: panel of judges Ika, Editor & Publisher Rex Aguado and Chairman of Harrex Media Limited Harry O’Neill. From Indonesia, the selection went to Made Mangku Pastika, currently Governor of Bali. For further information, email ika@ balifashionweek.com. ReviewAsia, Suite 2507, 410 Des Voeux Road West, Hong Kong, (852) 3571-7223 54
JAKARTA TO JAZZ! The Jakarta International Java Jazz Festival 2009 will take place March 6,7 and 8, 2009 at the Jakarta Convention Center. This year’s event features international artists, the likes of Bobby Lyle, Boney James, Brian McKnight, Chieli Minucci & Special EFX, Chuck Loeb, Dave Weckl, David Garfield, Dianne Reeves, Eliane Elias and Everette Harp. This year’s theme is “It’s A Lifestyle” An ‘Online Price’ at www.javajazzfestival.com is valid only through January 5.
TINY ISLANDS TO HONOR... Indonesia’s remote Moluccas islands plans to build a museum and an observatory in honor of British naturalist Alfred Russel Wallace, who in the 19th century spent many years in the area doing pioneering field work. Wallace was a leading expert on the geographical distribution of animal species and proposed a theory of natural selection around the same time his better known compatriot Charles Darwin published his famous theory in “On the Origin of Species.” Ternate, the provincial capital of North Moluccas, plans to start constructing a museum and a monument on the site of Wallace’s former home this year, as well as an observatory to research animal species in eastern Indonesia. The city has also named a street after Wallace. The Welsh-born naturalist is famous for identifying the “Wallace Line,” a boundary separating eastern and western Indonesia into areas of different species. Sourced from www.reuters.com
PHOTOS BY NYOMAN ARI GUNADI
INTERNATIONAL ‘JEPEN’ FESTIVAL
IN-FLIGHT AWARDED Qatar Airways has added yet another illustrious award to its rapidly growing list of accolades by winning the Aviation Business Award for In-flight Services of the Year. The Doha-based airline continued its award-winning streak at the annual Aviation Business Awards gala dinner held at Le Meridien Hotel in Abu Dhabi. It follows honors won at the recent World Travel Awards in which travel industry professionals voted Qatar Airways as the Middle East’s Leading Business Class Airline for the second year running and having the region’s Leading Airline Lounge. The in-flight services provide passengers with the best all-round experience that they can find in the skies today. www.qatarairways.com 56
The recent International ‘Jepen’ Festival took place at the Grand Tarakan Mall on the island of Tarakan in East Kalimantan. Tarakan other cities including Nunukan, Bulungan, Malinau, West Kutai, Samarinda and Balikpapan, as well as groups from neighboring country Malaysia participated in traditional Malay social dance festivity. Alongside the festival were old Tarakan photo competitions and exhibitions in ‘Tarakan Tempo Doeloe’, which saw 60 photos from 19 participants. The dance festival itself draw 23 troupes with over 300 participants and their supporters. Above, Head of Tarakan City Cultural and Tourism Government Office, Ery Sugiarto, shares a photo shot with troupe winners. The international-scale festival was expected to act as an introduction to the wealth of cultural arts in the other coastal areas in East Kalimantan and those of neighboring countries that share the close cultural proximity with the island. At feft, representatives of Bali’s travel association or ASITA, Ms. Erawati, and Bali Tourism Board (BTB), Sang Putu Subaya, pose with dancers in traditional Kalimantan attire. www.tarakankota.go.id
NATURE DEPICTED Komaneka Fine Art Gallery presents a solo exhibition by Budi Agung Kuswara that will run through January 20. For quite some time Budi Agung Kuswara has tended towards environmental themes, and lately he is interested in exploring this tendency through visualizing natural surroundings and weather conditions. On his canvasses we can find strong wind blowing fragmented branches and disquieting the sea until it boils over. He defines the strength of the currents with sparks of fire, flickering amongst the foaming sea. Kabul, as his friends fondly call him, is finishing his study in the Fine Art Department of the Indonesian Art Institute in Yogyakarta. Komaneka Fine Art Gallery, Jalan Monkey Forest, Ubud, Gianyar, (0361) 976-090; www.komaneka.com
FOOLS’LORE Biasa Art Space presents “Indieguerillas” FOOLS’LORE: Folklore Reload, curated by Sudjud Dartanto. The exhibition runs through January 18 at the art space on Jalan Raya Seminyak. Santi Ariestyowanti and Dyatmiko Lancur Bawono (Miko) joined forces as Indieguerillas in 1999. Both had graduated from the Fine Art Faculty of the Indonesia Art Institute in Yogyakarta; Santi in Visual Communication Design and Miko in Interior Design. Inspired by local culture and daily events, Indieguerillas works with video, digital art, wood, glass, resin, as well as acrylic on canvas. Through pop yet provocative and brave designs, they bring exploration of techniques and a seemingly endless stream of fresh ideas to the fore. Biasa Art Space, Jl. Raya Seminyak 34, Kuta, (0361) 847-5766 www.biasaart.com
ETHNOLOGY Gaya Art Space presents ‘PostEthnology Museum’, an arts painting and installation by artist Heri Dono, curated by Mikke Susanto. The exhibition will run through January 13and the space is open daily from 9am - 10pm. Heri Dono has visited major museums in various countries, and this time he wants to re-interpret the roles of museums, the roles that have disturbed his mind for so long. Heri Dono disclosed that the art works displayed in this exhibit represent diverse processes of creation based on pluralistic discourses that place local values and philosophies at an equal and referential position with the concepts of modern arts. Gaya Fusion, Jl. Raya Sayan, Ubud (0361) 979-252 www.gayafusion.com
RUSSIAN REVELS Nikko Bali Resort & Spa presents a Russian Christmas celebration with a live band performance and modern dance and fashion show on January 6, taking place at the resort’s Serenity Beach featuring a BBQ dinner and entertainment from 8pm – 10pm, at only US$ 110++/ person with a 50% off for children from 5 - 12 years. Nikko Bali Resort & Spa, Nusa Dua, (0361) 773-377; www.nikkobali.com
THIS SIDE OF PARADISE Ganesha Gallery presents an exhibition of art by Davina Stephens. In her newest exhibition called This Side of Paradise, Stephens focuses on the image of Dewi Sri, the goddess of rice. Revered in Java and Bali, this powerful fertility goddess controls agriculture and the Asian staff of life. She is associated with the moon and is comparable to the classical Greek and Roman earth goddesses, Gaia and Demeter. But Stephens’ explorations of mythological and magical themes leave nostalgia just as an echo in the distance since, as she says, “…serenity begets tension as I press the play button introducing post-industrialist imagery on a journey from the ancient to modern world; a kind of Silk Road to the Hollywood production of Lost Horizons”. Ganesha Gallery, Four Seasons Resort Bali at Jimbaran Bay, (0361) 701-010; www.fourseasons.com/jimbaranbay 58
ART FOR LIFE Maya Ubud Resort & Spa presents an exhibition of Batik titled “Art for Life” by Tjok Agung Kusumayuda Pemayun and W Gallery through January 15. More than twenty batik artworks are displayed at the lobby area and Gallery Boutique of the resort. All exhibited batik artworks are made from natural dyes. Tjok Agung has a very strong interest in natural dyed textile and has been involved with Bali traditional textile conservation work with Yayasan Pecinta Budaya Bebali (Bebali Traditional Textile Conservation Foundation). Together with W Gallery Ubud, Tjok Agung contributes 10% from sales of his batik artwork to environment programs by the Friends of National Parks Foundation (www.fnpf.org). Maya Ubud Resort & Spa, (0361) 977-888 www.mayaubud.com
TWO IN ONE Tony Raka Art Gallery presents two exhibitions of art during the same month. First is Sanggar Dewata Indonesia (SDI), one of the nation’s biggest groups of art through their latest visual art exhibition that also celebrates its 38th anniversary. The exhibition will run through January 30. The second is a painting exhibition by Made Wiradana, a graduate of Indonesia Institute of The Arts Yogyakarta (ISI Yogyakarta). His paintings are manifestations of abstracted ancient, mystical and primitive images, which are developed through modern art techniques. His magnificent paintings are also viewable at the Intercontinental Bali Resort in Jimbaran through January 5. Tonyraka Art Gallery, Jalan Raya Mas no. 86, Mas, Ubud (0361) 781-6785; www.tonyrakaartgallery.com
MEANWHILE... THIS MONTH January 1 New Year’s Day, 2009 International observance Global Family Day (formerly the One Day of Peace and Sharing) recognized by the UN World Day of Peace - established by Pope Paul VI in his letter dated on 8.12.1967 International observance January 3 Saraswati Balinese Hindu observance Religious Department Day National observance January 4 Banyu Pinaruh Balinese Hindu observance January 5 Soma Ribek Balinese Hindu observance Indonesian Women’s Naval Corps (KOWAL) Day
National observance January 6 Sabuh Mas Balinese Hindu observance World Day for War Orphans (initiated by S.O.S Enfants En Detresse and AIDS & War Orphans International) January 7 Pagerwesi Balinese Hindu observance Orthodox Christmas Orthodox Christian observance January 10 Purnama Kepitu Seventh Full Moon Balinese Hindu observance
January 17 Tumpek Landep Day of blessing for metalwork Balinese Hindu observance January 24 Siwaratri Balinese Hindu observance January 25 Tilem Kepitu Seventh New Moon Balinese Hindu observance Gwan Tan Chinese Observance International Leprosy Day International observance Nutrition and Food Day National observance
January 14 Old New Year Orthodox Christian observance
January 26 Imlek / Chinese New Year 2560 Chinese Observance
January 15 Martin Luther King, Jr. Day United States observance
Annular Solar Eclipse Natural phenomenon
Australia Day Australian observance India Republic Day Indian observance Garuda Indonesia’s 60th anniversary (Founded January 26, 1949 as Garuda Indonesian Airways) National observance January 28 Data Protection Day Recognized by the Council of Europe International observance January 31 Nahdlatul Ulama (NU) anniversary; conservative Sunni Islam group in Indonesia, established January 31, 1926) National observance
VIP VISIT The Laguna Resort & Spa, Nusa Dua hosted President of Republic of Indonesia Mr. Susilo Bambang Yudhoyono and Mrs. Ani Yudhoyono and a number of other delegates from December 9–10, 2008 who were in Bali to officially open the 1st Bali Democracy Forum (BDF). The BDF was attended by several government leaders and ministers from a number of Asian countries.
ROCKED ‘N RAN
Rock & Run the 8th Chapter was a recent success and proceeds from the annual event totaled Rp 50 million which was presented to the Rotary Club. Pictured left is Darryl Marsden, General Manager of Hard Rock Hotel Bali (right) presenting the cheque to Rotary Club Seminyak, Bali, represented by Urs Klee, President of Rotary Club Seminyak. ‘Rock & Run’ is an annual social event carried out by Hard Rock Hotel Bali that goes in line with its motto: ‘Take Time to Be Kind’. ‘The 8th Chapter’ took place November 2, 2008 with over 300 participants joining. Hard Rock Hotel Bali, Jalan Pantai, Banjar Pande Mas, Kuta, (0361) 761-869
The Department of Culture & Tourism in cooperation with Kalimantan provinces held a tourism promotional event, November 21-23, 2008, at the atrium of the Discovery Shopping Mall in Kuta. The Borneo Extravaganza was the third, held every two years. The first was in Jakarta in 2004 and the second in 2006. This third installment took “Exciting Borneo” as its theme. The showcase featured various attractions and arts never before shown outside of the island of Kalimantan, with performers, items, snacks and souvenirs brought in directly from Central, East, West and South Kalimantan. Governor of Central Kalimantan, Teras Narang, was present to deliver a speech.
GRATEFUL GATHER The Ritz-Carlton, Bali Resort & Spa recently invited members of the island’s tourism industry and media to a magnificent island escape of its “Umbrella” poolside appreciation gathering in December at the resort’s Ocean Beach Pool. The Ritz-Carlton-Bali, Resort & Spa Jl. Karang Mas Sejahtera, Jimbaran (0361) 702-222; www.ritzcarlton.com
BROKE GROUNDS Royal Kamuela Villas Nusa Dua, the new Aston International-managed villa property in Nusa Dua recently saw its groundbreaking ceremony on location within the Bali Tourism Development Corporation (BTDC) area; home to some of the best known resorts in Bali. The Royal Kamuela Villas Nusa Dua will consist of 34 villas all with private pools. A combination of one and two bedroom villas make up the development. Due to open this year the Royal Kamuela Villas will cater for the growing market in Nusa Dua looking for an alternative to a resort hotel environment. The Royal Kamuela Villas Nusa Dua is luxuriously appointed with high quality furnishings and fixtures. Each Villa will have its own large private swimming pool, and separate lounge and dining area resplendent with a large flat screen TV. ASTON International Hotels, Resorts & Residences, Wisma Staco, 3rd Floor, Suite 100, Jl. Casablanca Kav. 18, Jakarta (021) 831-8800, www.aston-international.com
ROCKED, RIGHT! Hard Rock Hoel Bali hosted Angels & Airwaves in December. Angels & Airwaves (“AVA”) arrived in Bali to perform at Hard Rock Café Bali, on December 10, 2008 and signed a guitar in Centerstage for the Hard Rock Hotel Bali wall of fame. Pictured are the band’s lineup with Ms. Aulianty Fellina Rizal, Marketing and Communications Manager of Hard Rock Hotel Bali. Hard Rock Hotel Bali, Jalan Pantai, Banjar Pande Mas, Kuta, (0361) 761-869 www.hardrockhotels.net
ALL ALLURED... After successfully opening seven boutiques in Jakarta and Singapore, Allure has recently opende its 8th boutique in Seminyak. For 3 years Allure has creatively progressed in bringing batik to the world. Allure preserves traditional batik by presenting them as modern, contemporary, yet elegant and exotic at the same time. The opening of the 8th boutique in Bali was also marked by fashion show which took the theme “Exotic Nuances of Batik” featuring eight models (six female and two male models). Allure Batik, Seminyak Square Lt. 2 B – 9 Jl. Laksamana, Seminyak, (0361) 738-039 www.allurebatik.com 64
ROLE PLAYED The R.O.L.E. Foundation ‘s December 13 fundraising evening at the O-CE-N by Outrigger’s new seafood restaurant, The Flying Fish featured a seafood buffet enjoyed by the 75 people. Pictured are some of the party members and foundation founder Mike O’Leary (second from right). R.O.L.E. Foundation head office; Jl. Siligita 55D, Nusa Dua (0361) 778-149 www.rolefoundation.org O-CE-N Bali by Outrigger, JI Arjuna 88X Legian, Kuta, (0361) 737-400 www.outrigger.com
ECO ‘N ECHOES... Bali Eco Adventure Bayad recently launched its newly discovered cave labyrinth in the eco adventure’s territory. The trek was opened for the first time, inviting members of the tourism and travel industry and media to experience the ancient cave, Goa Maya. Certain hints inside the labyrinth direct to the assumption that inhabitants of the village hid there during the times of Dutch occupation and the anti-communist unrests in 1965/66. Bali Eco Adventure Bayad, (0361) 901874; www.baliecoadventure.com
SKAL INTERNATIONAL BALI An International Association of Travel and Tourism Professionals Doing Business Among Friends
SKAL HAD A BALL Over 280 members and Guests enjoyed the 2008 annual Skal Bali Ball, Bali’s tourism’s largest social gathering of the year, held on December 19 in the magnificent Graha Sawangan Ballroom of the Nikko Bali Resort & Spa. There were cocktails and camels, carols and stilt-walkers, great food, lots of wine, a great band and singer plus dancing, a fashion show, raffles, silent auctions and a great door prize. Reservations are now open for 2009.
GREAT LUNCHES ‘N EVENTS The 130 members of Skal Bali meet for fellowship, networking and a great lunch every month. The agenda is light and fun. NOT TO BE MISSED JANUARY 9, 2009 at BONEKA at the ST. REGIS BALI RESORT.
ABOUT SKAL AND SKAL BALI Skal International, founded in Paris in 1934, is the largest travel and tourism organization in the world counting over 20,000 members in 500 clubs in over 80 countries. Members are leading tourism industry professionals and management from hotels, transportation, tour operators, travel agencies, marine and cruise operators, attractions, restaurants, golf courses, spas and travel and tourism media. Skal Bali - biggest club in South East Asia and second fastest growing club in the world. For information contact our secretariat at (0361) 784 0212 or at skalbali@dps. centrin.net.id 66
Member of RAMA HOTELS & RESORTS BALI www.rama-hotels-bali.com
HIGHLIGHTS: The hotel set amongst tropical garden, fresh ocean breeze and sunset most of time! With a new beach front restaurant; ROSSOVIVO dine & lounge create its own crowds. A paradise of beach lovers……… FACILITIES: 82 air-conditioned rooms, with superior room and deluxe bungalow category. Completed with international TV channel, in-house movies, mini bar, IDD telephone, hair dryer, coffee/tea making facilities, slippers, umbrella, private balcony/terrace and in-room safe for all room type. New meeting room, room service, swimming pool, kids pool, aromatic traditional massage & reflexology, baby sitting, shops and atm machine within walking distance. The newly renovated beach front restaurant ROSSOVIVO dine & lounge offer wide choices of original Italian cuisines, Indonesian & International dishes. As well as new pool bars and cozy sofas facing to the beach create its own ambience with additional in-house DJ perform daily for the sound of sunset with the ocean and fun of kuta’s life as the background. LOCATION: A centre of the long golden sandy Kuta Beach front and well known for its best surfs places and the magnificent sunset. Within walking distance from all famous nightlife activities and shopping centre. CONTACT: Kuta Seaview Cottage, Jl. Pantai Kuta, Kuta, Bali. Tel: (0361) 751-961 Fax: (0361) 751-962; Email: firstname.lastname@example.org; Website: www.kutaseaviewhotel.com
★★★ HIGHLIGHTS: Cultural rhythms blend with nature enhanced by warm balinese hospitality for privacy and intimacy over 2 hectares of lush tropical garden. Perfect for honeymooner and business gathering combined with its tropical leisure. FACILITIES: 99 air-conditioned rooms & villas has international TV channel, in-house movie, mini bar, IDD telephone, hair dryer, coffee/tea making facilities and private balcony/terrace. THE RESORT itself completed with large and stylish swimming pool, kids pool, restaurant and pool sunken bar, 24 hour room service, drugstore, tennis court, spa, new meeting room and safety deposit box available at reception. Exclusive benefits for THE VILLAS, with options of garden, family and pool villa has its own safety deposit box in each room, DVD player, butler services and high speed internet connection and separate spacious shower & bathtub. LOCATION: Five minutes from NGURAH RAI - Bali’s International airport. South Kuta white sandy beach & shopping centre within walking distance with the free shuttle service provided 4 times daily. CONTACT: Rama Beach Resort & Villas, Jl. Jenggala (ex Wana Segara), Tuban-South Kuta, Bali Tel: (0361) 751-557; Fax: (0361) 751-768; Email: email@example.com Website: www.ramabeachhotel.com
★★★★ HIGHLIGHTS: Seafront and spacious moderate resort style. The hotel offers a perfect haven for those who want to experience the other side of Bali. FACILITIES: 72 air-conditioned completed with international TV channel, in-house movie, DVD player, mini bar, IDD telephone, hair dryer, coffee/tea making facilities, slippers, umbrella, private balcony/terrace and safety deposit box in all rooms. Newly stylish seafront restaurant GARPU Restaurant & Bar with a zen style is now serving exquisite international and local delicacies, swimming pool, kids pool, tennis court, meeting room, shuttle service to central Candidasa, new pavilion AMBIENTE spa with the new wellness concept & healthy food, activities such as water sports (fishing, snorkeling, and diving), trekking, tennis, yoga session and cooking class. LOCATION: In the tranquil beach of eastern Bali, overlooking to the wide open ocean. It’s about an hour from Kuta area. Serves as a convenient base to explore the most interesting Balinese cultural places such as Besakih, Mt. Agung, Tenganan Village, The Royal Palace of Karangasem, etc. CONTACT: Rama Candidasa Resort & Spa, Jl Raya Sengkidu, Candidasa – Karangasem, Bali Tel: (0363) 419-74; Fax: (0363) 419-75; Email: firstname.lastname@example.org Website: www.ramacandidasahotel.com
★★★★ HIGHLIGHTS: The newly expanded Ramayana Resort & Spa in Kuta is surrounded by lush tropical gardens and provides 6 different type of rooms to suit your various needs and preferences. A modern Balinese tropical garden resort with adjoining sidewalk shopping arcades, exquisite restaurants, and café’s. FACILITIES: Guest rooms are surrounded by gardens and the different levels of accommodations provide different views, and range from superior to deluxe with private balconies, spacious family rooms, and interconnecting deluxe rooms for families. The resort club caters to a high standard with 18 superior deluxe rooms. Dine after sunset at Rama’s restaurant on gastronomic delights of authentic local and international variations. Bluefin is a sophisticated lounge with Japanese fusion dishes, while Asian Spice serves Asian favorites. LOCATION: A short walk away to Kuta’s largest shopping center, art markets, the famous Kuta Beach, and the Waterbom Park. Positioned conveniently on the corner of Jalan Bakung Sari and Kartika Plaza, with the Kuta Sidewalk as its frontispiece. CONTACTS: Jl. Bakung Sari, Kuta, PO Box 3334, Denpasar, Bali, Indonesia. Tel. (0361) 751-864 Fax. (0361) 751-866; E-mail: email@example.com, firstname.lastname@example.org Website: www.ramayanahotel.com
HIGHLIGHT: The Mentari Sanur Hotel is tucked away down a small side street just off Jalan Hangtuah at the northern end off Sanur, Bali’s most enchanted village. Shaded by frangipani trees, this two-storey 28 rooms hotel offers the ideal combination of modern facilities and a charming Balinese atmosphere with family style hospitality and service. FACILITIES: A large luxury private swimming pool is the right place for you to pamper your self and relax in a privacy atmosphere under a warm tropical sun. Tunjung Restaurant offers a combination of continental and traditional Balinese dining, cozy lounge is the area where you can sit down, relax, and bar will serves you varieties of drinks. Free exclusive broadband internet access. LOCATION: Located in a tranquil coastal village of Sanur make the Mentari Sanur Hotel is situated in an ideal location with immediate access to the main highway and just minutes from many great tourist activities and attraction, 25 minutes drive to the Ngurah Rai International Airport, 20 minutes drive to Kuta Beach, 5 minutes drive to the Sanur shopping area, 10 minutes drive to Denpasar and 30 minutes to Ubud. CONTACT: Jl. Hangtuah III No.3, Sanur, Telp: (0361) 283286; Fax.(0361)283017 Email: email@example.com; Website: www.mentarisanur.com
HIGHLIGHTS: The Maxi Hotel & Spa is situated in the heart of Bali’s shopping and nightlife district. Centrally located, the property offers an ideal base for visitors wishing to explore Bali while keeping all the island’s best shops, bars, restaurants and beaches within easy walking distance. FACILITIES: Hotel facilities and services include restaurant, bar, meeting room, massage and spa, room service, swimming pool with Jacuzzi, children’s pool, laundry and dry cleaning service, airport pickup and transfer, snack bar, tour desk, doctor on call, free car park, baby sitter upon request, broadband internet connection, major credit cards accepted, individually controlled air-conditioning, local and IDD telephone, satellite TV, daily mineral water, private bathroom with bathtub and shower, mini bar, personal electronic safe deposit, tea & coffee maker. The balcony overlooking the swimming pool and landscaped tropical garden offers a private area for relaxing. LOCATION: The hotel is less than 15 minutes from Ngurah Rai International Airport; 20 minutes drive to Denpasar, 30 minutes from Sanur, Nusa Dua and within 45 minutes drive to the artistic centre of Ubud and about 350 meters from Bali’s famous Kuta Beach. CONTACTS: Jl. Legian 83A, Legian, Tel: (0361) 754-082, Fax. (0361) 750-792 E-mail: firstname.lastname@example.org; Website: www.maxi-hotel.com
HIGHLIGHTS: The Sanur Paradise Plaza Hotel is a four star international resort which commands a strategic location that is just minutes from great shopping and entertainment, as well as the cultural and natural attractions of Bali. Sanur Paradise Plaza Hotel is the first 4 star resort in Bali to have a Club Lounge and dedicated CLUB Floors consisting of 42 rooms and suites. All rooms on the ground level have just been renovated featuring a modern contemporary Balinese look, marble flooring, and finished with warm colors that deliver a soothing ambience and more comfort for guests. FACILITIES: All categories of the 329 guest rooms surround a tropical garden courtyard and expansive pool environment. Each room is comfortably appointed with modern touches, cool marble flooring and a refreshing Balinese accent on décor. Some room categories feature a private balcony while others have direct access to the long 110m free form pool that is shaded by tropical palms. LOCATION: Situated between Ubud and Kuta, and in close proximity to Denpasar, Sanur Paradise Plaza Hotel and Suites is conveniently located near temples, galleries, restaurants, boutiques and the ever popular Sanur Beach. CONTACTS: Jl. Hang Tuah 46, Sanur-Bali-Indonesia; Telp : 62-361-281781, Fax: (361) 289-166 E-mail: email@example.com, Website: www.sanurparadise.com
HIGHLIGHTS: J Boutique Hotel is an ideal place for business, stay and recreation. It offers an elegant property and modern comfort facilities combined with a high standard of service. FACILITIES: 88 guest rooms comprise of business, executive, business deluxe and J suite room, each featuring individually airconditioning, IDD telephone, satellite television, shower, mini bar, coffee/tea maker, hair dryer, 24-hour room service, doctor on call, airport pickup and transfer service, same day laundry and dry cleaning, safety box, mail service, free WiFi internet access, major credit cards accepted. And choices of facilities for pleasant stay such as Bellagio Restaurant, J Cuvee Wine Shop & Lounge, VIP room, Jatra Tour & Travel, meeting rooms, spa and aromatherapy, swimming pool with Jacuzzi, shop and gallery.
“Totally guest satisfaction”
LOCATION: Strategically located on Jalan Kartika Plaza, Kuta, and only a 5-minute drive from Ngurah Rai International Airport, with the Discovery Shopping Mall just a walking distance away. CONTACTS: Jl. Kartika Plaza no. 20, Kuta, Tel: (0361) 761-888, Fax: (0361) 755-352/753-529 Email: firstname.lastname@example.org; Website: www.jboutiquehotel.com
Nusa Dua ra
Jl. Le Jl. Melasti
E Jl. R
Istana Kuta Galleria
Ground Zero Monument
Hard Rock Cafe Jl. Pantai Kuta
Kuta Sea View
aP rtik Ka Jl.
Kuta Center Jl. Raya Tu
Discovery Shopping Mall
Sweden & Finland Consulate
Jl. Segara Ayu
Sindu Beach Jl. Kurusetr
Sanur Paradise Paza
Jl. Danau Tamblingan
Jl. Bypass Ngurah Rai
S Jl. Tegeh Agung
Jl. Danau Buyan
Jl. Pratama Raya
Inna Grand Bali Beach
N Bali Golf & Country Club
Jl. Danau Tempe
Czech Rep. Consulate
JANUARY 2009 Jl. N
The St. Regis
BaliQuad, Jl. Wirasatya VI No.9X, Suwung Kangin, Denpasar, Tel: 720-766;
VILLA DIANA BALI – luxurious and exclusive place, good value for money. 3
Fax: 727-956 www.baliquad.com; www.balibuggy.com
villas with 3 bed rooms each, private swimming pool and garage, kitchenete, shower and bath tub, hot/cold running water. Jl. Kresna, Ulun Tanjung, Legian,
Kuta. Tel: 754-038, 744-1282, 745-1600; Fax: 751-510
NEWSPAPER DIRECT – Bali widest range of daily newspapers from anywhere
E-mail: email@example.com; www.dianagrouphotel.com
of the world. Chose from 400 titles of 65 countries, daily, weekly or as you like it. This service delivers you the complete edition of your hometown newspaper
ACTION & ATTRACTION
on the same day of publication to your hotel or home on Bali. Contact your BALI ORCHID GARDEN – Enjoy the
hotel or villa reception or call/email them for the selection and pricelist 0361
beauty of walking among hundreds of
769414 / firstname.lastname@example.org
beautiful and rare orchids, Heliconia, Ginger and other interesting plants.
TOURS & TRAVEL
A peaceful, natural and safe haven
ADVENTURE INDONESIA – JUNGLE SURVIVAL TRAINING & FUN JUNGLE
close to the city. Enjoy a drink and find
WAR, Student Field Trip, Orangutan & Dayak, Explore Irian Jaya Tribes, Komodo
unique souvenirs. Tel: 466-010, Fax:
& Flores Adventure, Toraja Tour. BALI: Ruko Wana Segara 12A, Tel: (0361) 750
971, 750 964. JAKARTA: Wisma 31 kemang, 3rd floor tel: (021) 7182250/56,
Email: email@example.com www.adventureindonesia.com
BALI QUAD DISCOVERY TOURS - The Bali Quad and Bali Buggy tours both bring you to a part of Bali where you still can find old traditions alive. Drive
SELAMAT JALAN TOUR • Adventures • Hotel Vouchers • Tours around
yourself with a specially designed off-road vehicle that copes with all kinds of
and beyond Bali • Ticketing • MICE • Company Outings
terrain, through an authentic part of the island, passing rice fields, crossing
• Product Launchings • Tailor-made trips • Personalized
jungles and driving through a traditional Balinese village. The views during
service • Reasonable Rates •
these tours are sometimes beyond description. BaliQuad (using ATV’s / quad
Jl. Wana Segara, Kav. 25, Tuban-Bali. Tel: (0361) 766-580
bikes) and BaliBuggy (using off-road cars) are located in different locations
Fax: (0361) 766-545; Mobile: 081-139-8626, 081-238-
which offer different tracks. A special “2-in-1 adventure” can be arranged,
74910 Email: firstname.lastname@example.org www.selamat-
combining both off-road tours in one great adventurous day.
Have a copy of Bali & Beyond delivered to your home address monthly. Name: _________________________________________________ Address: _______________________________________________ City: ___________________________________________________ Country: ___________________ Postcode: ___________________ Phone: _________________________________________________ E-mail: _________________________________________________ Payment Method by Transfer Delivery fees: Within Indonesia : Rp. 150.000/year Asia, Australia & Africa : US$ 220/year Europe & America : US$ 240/year Please settle payment to the following account: PT. Bumi Dian Kusuma, (A/C. IDR) 534.30.05458.0 Lippo Bank Cabang Kuta Graha, Kuta-Bali Fax this form and proof of transfer to (0361) 762-096 Please reconfirm your fax by calling (0361) 764-274 MAGAZINE
■ GERMANY: Jl. Pantai Karang 17, Sanur Tel: (0361) 288-535; Fax: 288-826 Email: email@example.com
■ AIRPORT OPERATOR Tel: (0361) 751-011 ■ CATHAY PACIFIC AIRWAYS Wisthi Sabha Building, 2nd Floor Ngurah Rai International Aiprort Call Centre: 0804-1-888888 ■ CONTINENTAL MICRONESIA Tel: (0361) 768-358, Fax: 768-369 ■ ROYAL BRUNEI Tel: (0361) 757-292
■ GARUDA, Jl. Jalan Sugianyar 5 Denpasar Tel. (0361) 227-824, Fax: 226-298 24-hour access: 08071-807-807 ■ MERPATI, Jl. Melati No. 51, Denpasar Tel: (0361) 235-358 Airport Tel: (0361) 751-011, ext. 5240/5242 Hotline: Tel: (0361) 722-740, 722-741 ■ MANDALA AIRLINES, Komp. Plaza Kertawijaya, Jl. Diponogoro No. 98, Denpasar Reservation Call center 08041234567 ■ NGURAH RAI AIRPORT Tel/Fax: (0361) 759-761 ■ THAI INTERNATIONAL, Grand Bali Beach Sanur, Tel: (0361) 288-141 ■ QATAR AIRWAYS Discovery Kartika Plaza Hotel, South Kuta Beach Tel: (0361) 752-222; Fax: 753-788. Wisti Sabha Building, 2nd Floor, Ngurah Rai International Aiprort, Tel: (0361) 760-274 Fax: 760-275 ■ DEPARTURE Arrive at the airport two hours prior to departure. A Rp. 150,000 international departure tax is required. Domestic departure fee is Rp 30,000. Residents pay an additional Rp. 1 million Fiscal tax. Ngurah Rai Int’l Airport, Tel: (0361) 751-011
CONSULATES ■ AUSTRALIA, CANADA, NEW ZEALAND: Jl. Tantular No. 32, Renon - Denpasar 80234 Tel: (0361) 241-118, Fax: 221-195 E-mail: firstname.lastname@example.org www.dfat.gov.au ■ BRITAIN: Jl. Mertasari 2, Sanur, Denpasar 80227. Tel: (0361) 270-601 Fax: 270-570 E-mail: email@example.com ■ CZECH REPUBLIC: Jl. Pengembak 17 Sanur. Tel: (0361) 286-465, Fax: 286-408 E-mail: firstname.lastname@example.org ■ FRANCE: Jl. Mertasari Gg. II No. 8, Sanur Tel: (0361) 285-485, Fax: 286-406 E-mail: consul @dps.centrin.net.id
■ ITALY: Lotus Enterprises Building Jl. Bypass Ngurah Rai, Jimbaran Tel: (0361) 701-005 E-mail: italconsbali @italconsbali.org ■ JAPAN: Jl. Raya Puputan 170, Denpasar Tel: (0361) 227-628; Fax: 265-066
■ SINGAPORE AIRLINES Jl. I Gusti Ngurah Rai, Airport Tel: (0361) 768-388, Fax: 768-383
■ HUNGARY: Marintur, Jl. By Pass Ngurah Rai 219, Sanur. Tel: (0361) 287-701 Fax: 287-456 Email: email@example.com
■ MEXICO: PT Puri Astina Putra Building Jl. Prof. Moh. Yamin 1A, Renon Tel: (0361) 223-266 E-mail: firstname.lastname@example.org ■ NETHERLANDS: KCB Travel, Jl. Raya Kuta 127, KutaTel: (0361) 751-517, Fax: 752-777 E-mail: email@example.com ■ NORWAY & DENMARK: Mimpi Resorts, Jimbaran, Tel: (0361) 701070 E-mail: firstname.lastname@example.org ■ SLOVAKIA: Jl.Gunung Agung 93, Denpasar 80118 Tel: (0361) 426171; Fax: 426-477 E-mail: email@example.com ■ SPAIN: Jl.Raya Sanggingan, Br. Lungsiakan Kedewatan, Ubud. Tel: (0361) 975-736 Fax: 975-726; E-mail: firstname.lastname@example.org ■ SWEDEN & FINLAND Jl. Segara Ayu (Segara Village Hotel) Tel: (0361) 288-407, Fax: 287-242 E-mail: email@example.com ■ SWITZERLAND & AUSTRIA: Istana Kuta Galeria Blok Valet 2 No 12, Kuta Tel: (0361) 751-735, Fax: 754-457 E-mail: firstname.lastname@example.org ■ UNITED STATES: Jl. Hayam Wuruk 188, Denpasar. Tel: (0361) 233-605 E-mail: email@example.com
HEALTH & MEDICAL Call an ambulance by dialing 118, but it is a lot more practical and quicker to hire a taxi. Most hotels have on-call doctors on standby. For “Bali Belly”, Lomotil and Imodium eliminate symptoms, but not gastro-related infections. A fever along with symptoms requires doctorprescribed antibiotics. Drink as much liquid as possible. Isotonic drinks under various brand names are widely available and are known to replenish body hydration and replace fluids. For discomfort, diarrhea and cramping, drink strong, hot tea; avoid fruits and spicy foods. Some day-biting mosquitoes carry dengue fever, but this is not a problem in tourist areas. Bali is non-malarial and prophylaxis is not required. Mosquito bites, cuts or abrasions
easily become infected in the tropics. Treat them immediately. Drink only bottled or boiled water. Peel fruit before eating; avoid raw vegetables except at reputable restaurants. Ice in restaurants is safe. Protect yourself from the intense equatorial sun. Use high SPF sunblock and a hat. AIDS and sexually transmitted diseases are increasing in Indonesia. Local sex workers have multiple partners from around the world. They are not checked for sexually transmitted diseases. Act responsibly and use condoms, available over the counter at pharmacies.
HOSPITAL ■ MEDICAL EVACUATIONS: Contact your consulate. ■ BALI INTERNATIONAL MEDICAL CENTER, Provides medical attention for emergencies and evacuations. Jl. Ngurah Rai 100X, at the Kuta-Sanur-Nusa Dua roundabout. Tel: (0361) 761-263. ■ INTERNATIONAL SOS CLINIC 24-hour emergency medical clinic services, medical evacuation, multilingual staff. Jl. Bypass Ngurah Rai 505X, Kuta 80361. Tel: (0361) 710-505, Fax: 710-515. ■ RUMAH SAKIT UMUM PUSAT SANGLAH (General Hospital), Jl. Diponegoro, Sanglah, Denpasar. Tel: (0361) 227-911/15. ■ KASIH IBU HOSPITAL (Private Hospital) 24-hour emergency traumatology unit, maternity center, complete facilities and a full list of specialists, Jl. Teuku Umar 120, Denpasar. Tel: (0361) 223-036; Fax: 238-690 Email: firstname.lastname@example.org www.kasihibu.co.id
MUSEUMS ■ ABIAN KAPAS, Tel: (0361) 227-176 East Denpasar. ■ AGUNG RAI MUSEUM OF ART (ARMA) Ubud, Tel: (0361) 976-659, Fax: 974-229. Jl. Pengosekan, Ubud, open daily 8 am-6pm. ■ ANTONIO BLANCO, Tel: (0361) 975-502, 975-551, Ubud, open daily 8 am-5 pm. ■ ARCHAEOLOGICAL MUSEUM Tel: (0361) 942-352, Pejeng. Open 8 am - 3 pm weekdays. ■ GEDONG KIRTYA HISTORICAL LIBRARY, Tel: (0362) 25141, Jl. Veteran, Singaraja. Open 7am - 3pm Monday - Thursday, until Fridaynoon, closed on weekends. ■ GALLERY SENIWATI, Jl. Ubud Raya, Gianyar. Tel: (0361) 975-485 ■ MUSEUM BALI, Tel: (0361) 235-059, 222-680, Jl. Let. Kol Wisnu, Denpasar. ■ MUSEUM LE MAYEUR Tel: (0361) 286-164, Jl. Hang Tuah, Sanur. Open 8 am - 2 pm, Tuesday - Sunday
■ MUSEUM MANUSA YADNYA Mengwi, open daily, but often unattended. ■ MUSEUM NEKA, Tel: (0361) 975-074, 975-034, Jl. Raya Campuan, Ubud, open daily 9 am - 5 pm ■ MUSEUM PURI LUKISAN, Tel: (0361) 975-136, 971-159, Jl. Raya Ubud Ubud, www.mpl-ubud.com ■ MUSEUM RUDANA, Tel: (0361) 975-779, 976-479, Peliatan, Ubud. ■ MUSEUM SUBAK, Tel: (0361) 810-315, Jl. Raya Kediri, Desa Sanggulan, Tabanan.
TELECOMMUNICATIONS ■ CELLULAR SERVICES Indonesia applies GSM (Global Services for Mobiles). You can purchase prepaid calling cards at lower cost than calling on your home card. Major Service Providers are Telkomsel, Satelindo, Pro XL and Indosat. Look for kiosks and outlet signs or banners with product variants and brand markings. ■ TELKOMSEL The major GSM provider, Telkomsel, is reputed to have the widest national coverage area, minimizing connection and signal relay inconvenience. Graha Telkomsel, Jl. Diponegoro 134 Denpasar. Tel: (0361) 228-811.
TOURIST INFORMATION ■ INTEGRATED TOURISM INFORMATION CENTER (ITIC) A one-stop tourist information complex of ten provinces in Indonesia comprising Bali, Lampung, Jakarta, Banten, West Java, Central Java, East Java, Jogjakarta. Jl. Raya Kuta 2, Kuta, 80361 Tel: (0361) 766-188 ■ NGURAH RAI INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT, Tel: (0361) 751-011 ■ BADUNG GOVERNMENT TOURISM OFFICE, Jl. Kuta Raya 2, Kuta Tel: (0361) 756-175/76 ■ BALI GOVERNMENT TOURISM OFFICE Jl. Supratman, Niti Mandala, Renon, Denpasar Tel: (0361) 222-387 ■ SINGARAJA TOURIST INFORMATION OFFICE, Jl. Veteran 23, Singaraja Tel: (0362) 251-41 ■ UBUD TOURIST INFORMATION SERVICE, Jl. Raya Ubud, Gianyar Tel: (0361) 96-285, 973-285; 8 am - 9 pm.