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THE SUN... THE SAND... THE SURF... THE CULTURE OF PARADISE AND OVER 18,000 SURROUNDING ISLANDS

BALI & BEYOND J U N E 2 0 11

VOLUME 12 NO. 133

CHARM OF THE ABANDONED Old Batavia: Once dubbed the “Jewel of Asia” and “Queen of the East”

PIPING BREW

PIPING BIRDS

HERE BE

DRAGONS

There are more dragons far to the east at the other end of East Nusa Tenggara

Bali’s coffee farmers have successfully embraced sustainable harvesting

BEAUTY OF BATIK Centuries-old techniques of batik... Indonesia’s most famous fabric

COMPLIMENTARY

www.baliandbeyond.co.id

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NEW & NEWS • INFO INDEX • MAP OF BALI • CLASSIFIED COLUMNS


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TEAMTALK

HERE... MIDYEAR... ‘Om Swastiastu...’ Welcome to Bali and welcome to June edition of Bali & Beyond. In this edition, flip to our Fashion Folio pages where a selection of Batik fabrics from the designs at BIN House augment the beauty of our local model, all through the unique angles and the lens of our reliable contributing photographer Aji Mahareshi. BIN House Indonesian Creation was founded in 1986 by Josephine Komara (Obin), inspired and intrigued by the centuries-old cloth making techniques of batik, ikat weaving, tie and dye and stitch and dye that have made Indonesian fabrics famous. The exquisite fabrics from BIN House are entirely hand-spun and hand-woven by the finest Indonesian artisans, with no assistance from modern technology. Each piece of cloth is a product of meticulous craftsmanship that often takes months and sometimes a whole year to finish. The work starts from selecting and processing the fibers into yarn, then preparing the yarns for the intricate weaving using handlooms, then the weavers, ‘batik-kers’, and dyers begin their work. Very often there are more than 40 artisans are involved in this lengthy labor of love. The intricate patterns depicting ancient and near-extinct motifs are the result of complex methods of fabric weaving and batik dyeing that would take decades to master. All this passion and the intriguing background of this national pride fabric and this national designer made up our decision to feature Bin House in this edition’s Fashion Folio. In this month’s Craft & Culture we take a look at Balinese communities. The Balinese are known to be a resilient species that are steadfast at their concept of filial life and duty. And most of the time, instinctively, their families and community are more important than the pursuit of personal wealth.

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Through this month’s Invite & Indulge we present three new unique, if not cutting edge, spa realms that have and will surely continue to win praise amongst spa-goers through quality products, totally out-of-this-world and innovative spa designs, and skilled therapists who deliver the wonderful spa experiences. In Pondering Point we share with you the view of the Kawah Ijen sulfur lake - the world’s largest, as well as the plight of the human aspect. Oftentimes the excitement of the Ijen trip is not the ‘finish line‘ at the lake but rather the way one makes it there, encountering various breathtaking scenic spots and the interesting livelihood of workers along the way. And it was the harsh work conditions faced by the sulfur porters that caught the attention of avid cyclist, runner, mountain climber, successful chef and book author Heinz von Holzen. Heinz and his team at Bumbu Bali recently sent out a newsletter with a call for help, which as an important part of their mission statement includes their commitment to support and help people in need. They shared with the public this rather ‘brutal’ side of sulfur mining, and we thought we could help spread the word. Out of the island and beyond in Beyond Bali, our adventuring contributor Tim Hannigan takes you to the remote island of Alor near Komodo, the first landfall in the province for travelers coming from the west, famed for its huge reptiles. But if local legends are to be believed there are more dragons far to the east at this other end of East Nusa Tenggara.

Aji Mahareshi shoots not only fashion, weddings, and luxury properties, but also cultural interests and art. He contributes to this edition’s Fashion Folio. www.ajimahareshi.me

Tim Hannigan first came to Indonesia to surf the world class waves of Bali, but it was the potential for adventure on dry land that really got him hooked.

Josua Alessandro loves to photograph human subjects, cultures and landscapes. His portfolio can be viewed at www.escapadepictures.com

Enjoy these as well as other interesting articles in this edition of Bali & Beyond... and enjoy your travels. Keep safe! ‘Om Shanti Shanti Shanti Om…’ The Team Patricia Ivana loves writing, which also finances her travels. She loves the beach and wishes to go to all the beautiful beaches in the world. Good luck, Pat!


BALI & BEYOND Deputy General Manager

GOESTAMAR ARDIBRATA goestamar@baliandbeyond.co.id

Managing Editor

NYOMAN ARI GUNADI eric@baliandbeyond.co.id

Editorial Advisors Graphic Advisor Graphic Designer

A.A. GEDE RAI, JOHN M. DANIELS WENIAR PRAMESTI PUTU PARTAJAYA putu@baliandbeyond.co.id

Advertising & MarComm. Manager

RICKY UTOMO ricky@baliandbeyond.co.id

F&A Supervisor

A.A. KETUT SUKERTI agung@baliandbeyond.co.id

GA & Personnel Adm

I GEDE ADARA adara@baliandbeyond.co.id

Distribution

NYOMAN TRI HARIAN SAPUTRA

Contributors JOSUA ALESSANDRO, NOVENA ASSEN, TIM HANNIGAN, VINCENT HERRY, PATRICIA IVANA, AJI MAHARESHI, WISNU PRABOWO S.HUT, DRH. OKA DWI PRIHATMOKO, NI LUH DIAN PURNIAWATI Jakarta Marketing Services/Subscription Tel: (021) 315 2683/84, 391 0969 Publisher PT. BUMI DIAN KUSUMA Commissioner SOETIKNO SOEDARJO Director MAULANA INDRAGUNA SUTOWO Division Head MRA Printed Media INDRIATI WIRJANTO Printing PT. SUBUR JARINGAN CETAK TERPADU, JAKARTA OFFICE Bali White House - Jl. Dewi Sri No. 23 Block IV, Kuta 80361- Bali Tel: +62 361 8868601-2, Fax: +62 361 750075 E-mail:mag@baliandbeyond.co.id http://www.baliandbeyond.co.id Bali & Beyond Magazine is published monthly by PT. Bumi Dian Kusuma under the direction of MRA Media, Jakarta. Although every care is taken, neither the publishers nor any of their designees assume responsibility for the opinions and information expressed by editorial contributors. All material in this publication is copyrighted and cannot be reproduced without written permission of the publisher or author. All trademark and rights to Bali & Beyond are reserved by PT Bumi Dian Kusuma. Editorial materials may be submitted for consideration to the editorial office. Bali & Beyond is not responsible for the return of unsolicited material. Š 2006 Bali & Beyond ISSN 0216-4590

Endorsed by

BALI GOVERNMENT TOURISM OFFICE Jl. S. Parman, Niti Mandala Renon, Denpasar Tel: (0361) 222 387, 226 313 Fax: (0361) 226 313

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BALI&BEYOND JUNE 2011

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contents 06.11 THE SUN... THE SAND... THE SURF... THE CULTURE OF PARADISE AND OVER 18,000 SURROUNDING ISLANDS

June 2011 Volume 12 No. 133

34

PONDERINGPOINT PHOTO COURTESY SPA ULUWATU

SULFUR N’ SURVIVAL

Cover Beauty of Batik Photo by Aji Mahareshi Location Hotel Sanur Beach

Oftentimes the excitement of the Ijen trip is not the ‘finish line’ at the lake but rather the way one makes it there, encountering various breathtaking scenic spots and the interesting livelihood of workers along the way. Harsh work conditions faced by the sulfur porters have caught our attention and result in a call for help.

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CRAFT&CULTURE

BALINESE COMMUNITIES The Balinese are known to be a resilient species that are steadfast at their concept of filial life and duty. And at most of the time, instinctively, their family and community are more important than the pursuit of personal wealth.

PHOTO BY AJI MAHARESHI

CUTTING EDGE SPA REALMS

Three new unique spas that win praise amongst spa-goers through quality products and innovative spa designs.

PHOTO COURTESY THE SPA AT THE EDGE, BALI

BALI&BEYOND JUNE 2011

16 NEW&NEWS This month’s select news updates from the island’s tourism industry and what’s new around the island.

64 COMMUNITYCALENDAR Schedules, calendar highlights and various happenings of interest, from art exhibitions to special events.

INVITE&INDULGE

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+ 60 BEYONDUPDATES News updates from the tourism industry and what’s new beyond Bali.

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36 FASHIONFOLIO

BEAUTY OF BATIK

This month’s fashion page presents the beautiful designs and the pride of a nation from BIN House. Photos by Aji Mahareshi.

68 SEE&SEEN Snapshots of events and happenings within the preceding month. 74 BALIMAPS Map of Bali showing specific tourism areas and places of interest, as well as a distance scale between the island’s main destinations. 77 CLASSIFIEDCOLUMNS Listings and product descriptions from various clientele. 78 INFOINDEX Useful directory of companies and island-based businesses.


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contents 06.11

THE SUN... THE SAND... THE SURF... THE CULTURE OF PARADISE AND OVER 18,000 SURROUNDING ISLANDS

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PHOTO BY JOSUA ALESSANDRO

June 2011 Volume 12 No. 133

42 CAPITALCORNER

JAKARTA OLD TOWN, CHARM OF THE ABANDONED

Jakarta Old Town, also known as Old Batavia, is a small area located in West and North Jakarta with the Sunda Kelapa port as the gateway. 14

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48 BEYONDBALI TRADITIONAL ALOR: HERE BE DRAGONS Komodo is famed for its huge reptiles, but if local legends are to be believed there are more dragons far to the east at the other end of East Nusa Tenggara on the remote island of Alor.

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PHOTO BY WISNU PRABOWO S.HUT

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ACTION&ATTRACTION PIPING BREW, PIPING BIRDS The so called ‘green lifestyle’ that has become a trend nowadays has indeed spread widely. This has also influenced the coffee farmers in Bali in managing their plantations.


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NEW&NEWS

SWEET RETURNS

LOBSTER ON THE EDGE Banyan Tree Ungasan’s signature restaurant Ju-Ma-Na presents the king of crustaceans for those with a penchant for this treasured delicacy. Once again Chef Mandif Warokka and his culinary team take pride in preparing a special treasure from the sea lobster. Ju-Ma-Na’s exquisite selection of their 3 course set menu is priced at Rp 650++ and the 5 course set menu is priced at Rp 850++, and are only available this month of June. Perched high on Bali’s southernmost cliff, Ju-Ma-Na serves a gourmet feast of delectable fresh seafood with an Asian twist. Chef Mandif and his culinary brigade pride themselves on using only the freshest ingredients to create a contemporary fine dining menu. See them at work through a display kitchen that sits in the middle of the restaurant, exuding a vibrant atmosphere into the surroundings. Ju-Ma-Na Restaurant is open daily from 6.30 pm onwards. Reservations are necessary. Banyan Tree Ungasan, Jl. Melasti, Banjar Kelod, Ungasan, (0361) 300-7000 www.banyantree.com

TO YOUR HEART’S CONTENT Gabah Restaurant & Bar at the Ramayana Hotel, a member of Rama Hotels & Resorts Bali, invites diners’ families and friends to enjoy their holidays on the island with an All You Can Eat promotion with fresh, live cooking and a wide variety of food at only Rp 99,000++ per person. The promo is valid on Saturdays only from 12-3pm. Ramayana Resort & Spa, Jl. Bakung Sari, Kuta (0361) 751-864 www.ramayanahotel.com

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Ayodya Resort Bali welcomes its new Executive Chef, Geert Vermeulen. Hailing from Belgium, Geert started his career in 1989 in Brussels before moving to Indonesia in 2002 as the Chef de Cuisine at a French restaurant in Bali. He later moved to Jakarta to take up a position in a five-star hotel, but he couldn’t stay away from Bali for very long and returned to the island to take on the role of Executive Chef at an upscale villa. Having trained in French cuisine and explored the mysteries of Asian cuisine, Geert now heads the kitchen at Ayodya Resort Bali, where he takes responsibility for six restaurants as well as the banquet kitchen. Ayodya Resort Bali, Nusa Dua (0361) 771-102; www.ayodyaresortbali.com


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NEW&NEWS

BALI FOR 900 Courtyard by Marriott has chosen Bali as its first location in Indonesia for their 900th hotel in the world, which opened recently in the famous Nusa Dua resort area of the renowned tropical island destination. Courtyard by Marriott Bali showcases 250 deluxe guest rooms in an open design layout with a Kids Club and spa. The Courtyard by Marriott in Nusa Dua is owned by PT Peninsula Bali Resort and will operate under a long-term management agreement with Marriott International with Nicolas Reschke as Director of Sales and Marketing. The 250 deluxe guestrooms offer either a private balcony, a garden terrace or a terrace with close to pool access that allows guests to enjoy the fresh air and soak in the natural beauty that surrounds them. Deluxe bedding and 32-inch LCD panel TVs and satellite channels ensure that guests are able to relax and unwind. Six suites with oversized accommodations and double-sized balconies are available for honeymooners. Courtyard by Marriott Bali Nusa Dua (0361) 300-3888; www.courtyard.com

ENJOY THE RIDES Guests at the recently opened W Retreat & Spa Bali in Seminyak can expect a stylish and luxurious travelling experience in the BMW X5 Sports Activity Vehicle. W Retreat & Spa Bali has designated BMW as its preferred transportation partner to complement its redefined resort experience in one of the world’s most exotic travel destinations. Three Black Sapphire BMW X5’s are now available to transport guests between the resort and the airport, as well as for tours of the island. The new BMW X5 was introduced in Indonesia last October 2010 and is offered with two gasoline-engine models, the BMW X5 xDrive50i and BMW X5 xDrive35i, as well as one with a BMW Advanced Diesel engine, the BMW xDrive30d. www.whotels.com

FLY THAI HIGH Thai Airways introduces a promotion to celebrate its 51st anniversary. Flights from Denpasar to any destination in Europe and to Los Angeles and Johannesburg get one free round trip to any of Thailand’s domestic destinations (Economy class only) for all travel agents in Denpasar. Flights from Denpasar to Thailand also get a special fare from selected agents in Denpasar. Thai Airways International Inna Grand Bali Beach Hotel, Sanur (0361) 288-141; www.thaiairways.com

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NEW&NEWS

START REFRESH The Westin Resort is nearing completion of its last phase of refurbishment and in celebration of the new rooms the resort’s management is planning to have a Heavenly Party on June 17. The party will feature renowned Australian celebrity fashion designer and artist Camilla Frank, who is no stranger to the Hollywood ‘A’ list crowd. Unlike past events, this year’s Heavenly Party will be open to all. It promises to be a fun evening by the poolside, infused with music and entertainment and including an exclusive fashion show featuring Camilla’s latest collection. A private display of her artistic pieces will also be available for sale during the evening. The Westin Resort Nusa Dua, Bali; (0361) 771-906; www.westin.com/bali

READY... SET... The fifth annual Biznet Bali International Triathlon will take place on June 26 at Jimbaran Bay. The weekend features an Olympic Distance Race and Sprint Distance Race, the only triathlons ever to be held in Bali, and a unique destination race combining a luxurious race setting with a challenging course. The top male and female winners of the Sprint Distance Race will be awarded a 6-day, 5-night package at the Ayana Resort and Spa. The top male and female winners of the Olympic Distance Race will be awarded a 6-day, 5 night package at the Four Seasons Bali. The top three athletes in each competing division will receive various other prizes. Check out the website for further participant and race information. www.balitriathlon.com

FRESH IN SEMINYAK Prime Plaza welcomes its eighth property to the group with the opening of the Amadea Resort & Villas in Seminyak. With 86 Superior and Deluxe Rooms, seven suites including two Rooftop Suites, and seven Pool Villas of two and four bedrooms, the resort is designed to cater to domestic and international leisure travelers by offering affordable luxurious accommodation. It is complemented by two lap pools, a spa and a restaurant. Amadea Resort & Villas presents contemporary architecture with a flavor of Indonesia injected into its design, with interiors that live up to the elegant and stylish standards that Prime Plaza guests expect. Each spacious room is equipped with a flat screen TV, DVD player, in-room safe and a fridge, each has an indulgent en suite bathroom, and most rooms offer views onto one of the resort’s communal lap pools. To celebrate its opening, Amadea Resort & Villa is offering special opening rates and packages starting from US$ 75 for early bookings via their website. www.amadeabali.com

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NEW&NEWS

SPA COMBINE Spa Uluwatu at InterContinental Bali Resort now combines the professional spa skin care brand Pevonia Botanica with its renowned Spa treatment program. The treatments have an underlying oceanic theme that is balanced by Pevonia Botanica, which utilizes rich, natural botanical and marine ingredients. The unique spa concept offers several carefully and specifically designed treatments that feature healing and beauty with nurturing properties for the body, mind and spirit. Treatment highlights include Body Wraps using Moor Mud, a Green Coffee and Waterlily Hydration Wrap as well as a variety of treatments using 2011 Asia Spa Award-winning Men’s Line products. www.pevonia.co.id

UNVEILED IN SEMINYAK The Residences at hu’u recently announced the unveiling of its 10 individual private villas located in Seminyak. Each of the 10 residences – one-bedroom lofts, dual-level two-bedrooms and a penthouse villa – enjoys a private pool with tranquil landscaped gardens and plush interiors and exteriors that ensure pure relaxation with ease. Architectural plans by Putu Edy Semara create a platform that will accommodate any lifestyle or design sensibility with light-filled spaces, private ironwood sun decks, large balconies and lush landscapes. The Residences at hu’u mix traditional indigenous elements like “tetaring” sky-lighted roofs with contemporary amenities. Stylishly simple details proliferate in flawless interiors by Singaporean designer Alex Tan. For more information about The Residences at hu’u, visit: www.huuresidences.com

LINEUP AT THE HELM Four Seasons Resorts Bali welcomes new members to its management team. Dynamic and accomplished industry leader Michael Branham joins the well-established Bali team as General Manager, driving with new vision and innovation. A well-respected Four Seasons veteran, Edward Linsley takes the key position as Resort Manager. Heading the spa teams at both resorts is passionate spa professional Helen Norman who has been appointed the new Director of Spa’s at Four Seasons Resorts Bali and also leads as Senior Director of Spas in the Asia Pacific region. Four Seasons Resorts Bali, (0361) 701-010 www.fourseasons.com

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PHOTO BY NOVENA ASSEN

CRAFT&CULTURE

BALINESE COMMUNITIES

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There is this witty saying in Bali that says, “Marrying a Balinese also means ‘marrying’ their family, community, and all the customs that come with it.” But this is true and not just a witty account, for within the lives of the Balinese, personal and social life is equally imperative and intersects.

M

arriage in Bali is generally a woman ‘exiting’

In a patrilineal Balinese family the man’s family and his

her family and ‘entering’ the man’s. This is

grandfather’s lineage are more dominant than the mother or a

not only in the tangible sense by moving

grandmother’s. This large family at times has a suggestively great

residences but also in a niskala or intangible

influence in decision-making and the settlement of disputes.

manner. In one of the traditional Balinese Hindu marriage proposing sequences

The Balinese, like other agrarian societies, are social communities that have a very close kinship. Generally people consider the village

there is a scene when the woman prays at her family temple to

as the smallest community, but the Balinese also have their banjar

‘mepamit’ thereby notifying her ancestors that she will bid farewell

which are the smallest groups as well as the most solid.

to them in order to ‘follow’ her future husband. The next scene would be the woman being escorted to the

Physically a banjar consists of a certain area within a village, complete with boundaries and membership of a number of family

man’s house to continue with the other wedding sequences. At

heads. The unit is headed by a kelian banjar. A banjar is very

the house compound already present are the extensive family

substantial to its members as it has its own sets of rules and

members of the bridegroom such as the village leaders, the

is very autonomous. The greater the region of the banjar or its

village’s youth groups, and other invitees.

membership at times require breaking the banjar down into several

A wedding in Bali also transforms the bride and groom into a banjar or village community group member who is bestowed rights

smaller groups called tempekan. Rights and obligations of members of the banjar usually revolve

and duties in the local community. This is also a sort of recess for

around activities like celebrations, mourning, and religious matters.

the male’s parents since this time he will be taking on the role as

For example, when a member is getting married he would invite

head of the family.

members of the banjar or his tempekan to come help start the

All through these times, being a Balinese would be identical to

preparations. Integrity becomes greater with the presence of a bale

the many milestone rituals that one must go through throughout a

banjar or meeting hall where the members conduct their meetings.

lifetime, from birth (and before) until death (and even after). Since the

Every family in Bali is generally a member of a banjar in its

fetal age of 7 months (optionally), one goes through the megedong-

village neighborhood or place of origin. A banjar becomes a very

gedongan to bless the baby leading its birth, then comes the 42

important community in the lives of a Balinese, oftentimes seen

days after birth three-month ritual, the six-month ritual, then up to

as a second family. So no wonder, even when it comes to taking

the various rites of passage and marriage, and in due course the

up a new job, a Balinese would take his banjar obligations into

Balinese Hindu ngaben rite through the funerary pyre.

consideration such as, “Will the new job give me time to carry on

But fundamentally one does not become a Balinese if he does not play a part in the colorful social life in Bali. ‘Family’ to the Balinese is not only in the nuclear implication –

with my banjar activities,” or otherwise. At large events such as mass ngaben ceremonies every member gathers at the bale banjar. They conduct discussions to distribute

limited to the parents and siblings. But it goes further and wider to

tasks and responsibilities together with the timeframes. When the

include the typically numerous and extended network of grandpas

highlighted day comes the women focus on the production of banten

and grandmas, uncles and aunts, cousins and their stretched line

offerings and auxiliary material while the men cooperate in carrying

of relatives... the whole living family tree if you please. And these

out the more physically demanding labor such as cremation site

trees in Bali are normally large. The crowd will gather to prepare,

preparations and the building of necessary bamboo structures.

pray and rejoice at the Sanggah Gede and family temple or what is

Back in time when all of Balinese society was agrarian, tending

referred to as the Pura Paibon when piodalan temple anniversaries

to the rice fields and farming, they would carry out their banjar

mark the calendar.

tasks after their daily chores in the fields. Nowadays, as life and BALI&BEYOND JUNE 2011

25


For events of festivity or grief, every member gathers at the bale banjar. They conduct discussions to distribute tasks and responsibilities, and on planned timeframes.

types of work have diversified, the banjar duties and regular

only strengthen the relationship between the farmers but it also

meetings are usually scheduled on weekends whenever possible.

minimizes conflicts that may arise. Disputes are usually settled via

The women for example usually gather at the hall to do the

kekeluargaan or ‘family-style’ discussions.

majejaitan or young coconut leaf weaving and stitching that makes

Besides these two important groups there is another form

up most of the materials for offerings and rituals. They proceed

referred to as sekaa. This group has members that are uniform or

to the hall and work their chores from morning to afternoon, while

of the same criteria. For example a village youth group or Pemuda-

lunch, snacks and drinks are often on the banjar’s account.

Pemudi would form a Sekaa Teruna-Teruni, or a gamelan band

But rules are open to change depending on conditions and collective agreements. For example at the preparatory stage for a wedding the celebrant will invite the male banjar members to

would get together as a Sekaa Gong. But most sekaa indeed are within the scope of a banjar. With only 24 hours in a day, it seems not quite ample time

help prepare for the necessary cooking of certain food offerings.

for carrying out so many activities in a community. How could

They start up at 4 in the morning, work for several hours, then at 6

someone with already so much on one’s hands in the office, with

when all tasks are completed they go home to start their workday

the family and children, the regular rituals on the Balinese calendar

according to each of their modern professions. At the time of their

system, and couple all that up with banjar customs and activities,

going home, the host will usually distribute packets of sate, lawar

the extended family tree and the various sekaa do all this?

and slices of pork as a token of gratitude. For an agrarian society the most important task is the tending

Yet the Balinese are a resilient species who are steadfast in their filial life and duty. They do it all unconditionally. Instinctively,

of the fields. At a time when everyone depended on the fields and

their families and community are more important than the pursuit

irrigation a special institution was needed for these affairs. This

of personal wealth. Perhaps it may sound cliché, perhaps their

institution is what became known as Bali’s subak organization.

lives are a little shifted due to the pressure of ‘global’ life, but

The farmers gather into one group called krama subak headed

hopefully the Balinese people continue their community resilience

by a Pekaseh, who regulates the distribution of irrigation water

because without it, Balinese life can never be complete. ■

that flows through the plots of its members. These groups not

Text by Ni Luh Dian Purniawati, photos by Vincent Herry

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INVITE&INDULGE

CUTTING-EDGE

SPA REALMS

and Wushu-inspired movements prior to a massage to loosen up those tight muscles. The 90-minute Zen Balancing option utilizes ‘bamboo leveraging’ then continues with the sticks being warmed and rolled in rhythmic strokes as an extension of the

AWAY SPA

therapist’s hands. The Away Spa by W Hotels is indeed

And don’t be surprised when you are

W Retreat & Spa Bali continues to awe

‘away’ from the ordinary, inviting spa-goers

face down on the oval treatment tables

with its inspirational designs. It has made

to escape the everyday into a different

- through the round face pillow, slideshows

excellent use of lighting, which is easily

realm. And being transported to a treat

on an LCD digital photo frame replaces the

evident through its chromatic flair as the sun

of inspiring interiors and a subtly soothing

mundane bowl of flowers, or water plants,

goes down, a feast of vivid colors that has

blue-lit treatment room (and tables) that is

or stones.

become a trademark on its own.

easily reminiscent of a scene from James

The ultra-modern features are also

Cameron’s Avatar, guests easily know from

Away Spa

distinct at the Away Spa, another ‘retreat’

the start that they’re in for something totally

W Retreat & Spa Bali - Seminyak

within the Retreat, a spa realm that many

different - a treatment in ‘another world’.

Jl. Petitenget, Seminyak

have found to be avant-garde - design-wise as well as the overall spa experience. 28

BALI&BEYOND JUNE 2011

Some of the invigorating treatments go to the lengths of incorporating martial arts

(0361) 738-106 whotels.com/baliseminyak


THE SPA AT THE EDGE

temple offering (canang): sacred flowers, blessed water, life-giving rice, and sincere

Here’s a spa that has broken new ground.

devotion. These unique features led to

The Spa at The Edge clings to the rock face

the spa receiving an award in The Most

of a stunning sea cliff and is designed to

Innovative category last year by Asia Spa.

fuse with its surroundings, skimming above

Packages range from among others,

the azure blue sea. Strictly by reservation, it

the Sacred Flower Ritual to the Divine Fire

only serves two per session and is perfect

Ritual that features the radiant Coconut

for couples.

Body Washing and scrub and the Lotus

Guests start with body scrubs in separate wet treatment rooms equipped

Blossom Steam Body Wrap. Prior to and after treatments, guests sit

with waterjets and showers. It also

back on daybeds and further unwind to the

features a personal steam ‘cave’ in one

sound of running water, refreshing drinks in

side of the granite walls. The guest is then

hand, and view of the Indian Ocean.

‘transported’ to the main treatment area where a liquid floor awaits. The Edge Spa offers quintessentially

The Spa at The Edge, Bali Jl. Pura Goa Lempeh, Banjar Dinas

Balinese spa experiences inspired by the

Kangin, Pecatu, (0361) 847-0700

four basic elements of a simple Balinese

www.the-edgebali.com BALI&BEYOND JUNE 2011

29


BAMBOO SPA BY L’OCCITANE The Bamboo Spa by L’OCCITANE is situated at the new Kupu Kupu Jimbaran resort. It combines traditional therapies and innovative methods with L’OCCITANE’s signature treatments. The unique concept allows guests to indulge in luxurious beauty rituals delivered in state-of-the-art designed treatment

of essential oils and natural ingredients

rooms. Entering this new spa realm

such as the Immortelle flower, Almond,

itself is a journey, as intricately signature

Red Rice, and Shea Butter.

Balinese bamboo sculptures are featured

The extensive menu is suited for both

throughout its spa reception and lounge

men and women, using carefully selected

area, as well as throughout the ceiling and

L’OCCITANE products to anticipate body

interiors of its 14 elegant treatment suites.

care and beauty needs.

The intensively-trained, professional

Unique to the Bamboo Spa is the

state of relaxation and well-being. The Bamboo Spa by L’OCCITANE is the second L’OCCITANE Spa in Bali, the first being at the Kupu Kupu Barong in Ubud with its Mango Tree Spa. It is fully equipped for ultimate relaxation with 5 single treatment rooms, 9 double treatment suites for couples, a

therapists are dedicated to pampering

‘Verbena Bamboo Fusion Therapy’, which

private steam room, a relaxation lounge,

spa-goers from head to toe, delivering

is a specialized massage using traditional

reflexology area and the L’OCCITANE

a spa experience that combines the

bamboo sticks associated with Provencal

retail boutique.

uniqueness of traditional ingredients

Verbena formulas to stimulate the flow of

and formulas from the South of France,

energy within the body.

combined with Balinese traditional

This unique massage promotes

Bamboo Spa by L’Occitane Kupu Kupu Jimbaran / Jimbaran

therapies and the ancient Indian “Science

circulation, releases deep muscular tension

Corner, Jl. Uluwatu Jimbaran

of life”, Ayurveda.

knots and delivers a gentle lymphatic

(0361) 703-342

drainage that all bring you to delightful

www.kupubarong.com

The Bamboo Spa features a wide range 30

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DINING HEIGHTS KARMA KANDARA RESORT OFFERS ITS GUESTS STUNNING CLIFF-TOP VIEWS AND A COLLECTION OF DINING OPTIONS WITH SPECTACULAR CUISINE

Karma Kandara Resort is perched high up on

serve their purpose - to satiate appetites and

a spectacular cliff top at Bali’s southernmost

impress at the same time.

tip. From its wide choice of luxury villas and

Former Chef Raymond Saja has now taken to

accompanying first class amenities – bridges,

the helm as General Manager of Karma Kandara.

stone walkways and little paths meander through

And now Executive Chef Steven Grande continues

vivid tropical gardens connecting 46 expansive

the legacy of tastes at di Mare and presents

private beach villa residences, and with these

exquisite creations of his own. With more than 10

exceptional facilities Karma Kandara Bali is also

years of experience in the culinary, restaurant and

blessed with the most exhilarating views - a

hospitality industry, Steven Grande was living in

seemingly limitless span of ocean and sky, 180

Burma (Myanmar) and working as Executive Chef

degrees of blue on blue brilliance.

at The Strand Hotel in Yangon prior to his arrival

This opulence is further augmented with

in Bali.

the resort’s select portfolio of public amenities.

Try the Snapper Ceviche or the Pesce Crudo.

Options include the restaurant di Mare, the

Or the Sea Bream, which comes skin lightly

rooftop bar Temple Lounge, and Karma Spa &

seared in a delicious sauce, served with French

Wellness that are all suspended on rocky outcrops

tarragon and bronze fennel breadcrumb dressing,

85 meters above the surf. For a more intimate

brown butter parsley and asparagus. Try the

nuance with lapping surf on sand, an inclinator

Mussels al’indienne for a truly coastal treat. Top

takes guests down to Nammos Private Beach

it off with special mouthwatering desserts such

Club where Mediterranean snacks, cocktails and

as the delicious Chocolate Fondant.

chill out tunes serve for perfect moments.

More than just a beach resort, Karma Kandara

At di Mare, sunsets are a thrill especially

is a privileged lifestyle. And with the lavish

with the accompaniment of di Mare’s signature

collection of dining options, it is where indulgence

cocktails. The Mediterranean/Italian dishes all

is at its peak.

Karma Kandara Jalan Villa Kandara Banjar Wijaya Kusuma, Ungasan, (0361) 848-2200 32

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www.karmakandara.com


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PONDERINGPOINT

SULFUR N’ SURVIVAL The literally backbreaking routines of the sulfur miner-cumporters of the world’s largest sulfuric lake of Kawah Ijen in East Java.

Amazing too are the sulfur-laden baskets, weighing roughly 80 kilograms (175 lbs) each, which are hand-carried from the Ijen floor up the very steep ridge. From this point another hardworking porter carries the handwoven baskets down to the nearby post—a distance of over three kilometers (1.8 miles)- through a winding, often difficult footpath. This sight of a seemingly endless caravan of extremely hard-working men is impressive even to the most callous visitor making the strenuous climb to the top. Often the most exciting part of the Ijen trip is not the ‘finish line‘ at the lake but rather the way one makes it there, encountering various breathtaking scenic spots and the interesting livelihoods along the

Kawah Ijen, one of the ‘Jewels of East Java’, is the island’s

way. And it was the harsh work conditions faced by the sulfur porters

spectacular sulfuric lake located right in the bosom of the majestic

that caught the attention of avid cyclist, runner, mountain climber,

Mount Ijen. The oval-shaped 54-hectare crater (911 meters by

successful chef and book author, Heinz von Holzen.

600 meters in diameter) reveals a spectacular view of the light,

Heinz and his team at Bumbu Bali recently sent out a newsletter

turquoise surface with distinct smoke coming out from the active

with a call for help, which as an important part of their mission

side of the ridge.

statement includes their commitment to support and help people in

The picturesque Ijen is awarded to visitors a few hours after a rainfall as fresh water covers the surface and the cool water sends sediments downward. But beneath the pristine beauty of this monument lies a striking portrait into the lives of the Ijen porters. Uniquely, Ijen is the site of labor-intensive sulfur mining. Hand

need. They shared with the public this rather ‘brutal’ side of sulfur mining and we thought we could help spread the word here. In the chef’s own words, “The journey starts with a comfortable three-kilometer hike up the mountain side to the rim of the crater. Then 175 meters almost vertically down into the steaming,

miners work on the flowing sulfur, allowing it to solidify at a

smoking gut of the volcano. The porters then need to protect

temperature of 150 degrees centigrade using pipes that are put on

their faces and step right into the harmful fumes and chip blocks

the edge of sulfur canals.

of the hardened sulfur, enough to fill two baskets weighing each

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about 35kg. A bamboo stick then connects the baskets and the porter carries the load back up to the rim of the volcano and three kilometers down to the collection point. The entire journey for one load takes approximately 5 hours, for which the porter receives a mere Rp 625 per kilogram.” “The mathematics are like this: One porter makes two trips daily six days in a row. Then he has to rest for one week. Rp 625 per kg x 70 = Rp 43,750. 2 loads a day = Rp 87,500. All this hard work for less than US$ 10 a day. Average life expectation of a porter = 45 years.” “During one of our journeys to Kawah Ijen we met and become friends with a small group of these porters. We now have

sunshine into the lives of these incredible hard working people?” As Heinz suggests, simply drop your “aged” clothes into the

committed ourselves to help one family with the schooling of their

basket in the lobby at Bumbu Bali and they will make certain that

three children, which cost only about US$300 per year.”

your generous donation will reach the right people. No need to wash them as they will take care of the cleaning. It is also probably

HELP WITH YOUR UNWANTED CLOTH “As part of our next trip to this area in late July we will bring with

the best way to get rid of your excess luggage. For further information on how you can help, please contact

us every single piece of clothing from our wardrobes that we have

Heinz and his Bumbu Bali team at: heinz@balifoods.com

not worn for the past 12 months and give them to these porters.

Bumbu Bali, Jl. Pratama, Tanjung Benoa, Nusa Dua

Perhaps you wish to join us in our efforts to bring just a little

(0361) 774-502; www.balifoods.com

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FASHIONFOLIO

BEAUTY OF BATIK THIS TIME, OUR FASHION FOLIO PAGES PRESENT A SELECTION OF INTRICATE BATIK DESIGNS FROM THE COLLECTION OF BIN HOUSE. THESE FLOWING FABRICS AUGMENT THE BEAUTY OF OUR MODEL HENING WEDHANTI THROUGH THE LENS OF OUR CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHER AJI MAHARESHI.

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Bin House designs are a one-ofa-kind creation. A selection from Bin House may take many months, sometimes even a year to finish. Individual pieces of fine silk adorned with intricate motifs and displaying a harmony of colors have always been the heart of the Bin House line. Over the last 20 years, traditional techniques of cloth making have been revived and combined with modern approaches to produce such beautiful cloth. Hand-woven, hand-dyed, and hand finished, these individual pieces are a result of great dedication and care.

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Collection: BIN House (www.binhouse.com); Model: Hening Wedhanti; Fashion Stylist: Gusti Arya Photographer: Aji Mahareshi (www.ajimahareshi.me); Hair and Make Up: Jana (www.kejanaprya.com) Jewelry: Komang Tri (www.komangtri.com); Location: Aerowisata Hotel Sanur Beach Bali (www.sanurbeachhotelbali.com)


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ACTION&ATTRACTION

PIPING BREW - PIPING BIRDS Bali’s coffee farmers have successfully embraced sustainable harvesting; local wisdom set as a good example for other regions in preserving nature, livelihoods and welfare among their communities.

T

he so-called ‘green lifestyle’ that has become a trend

fermentation of coffee beans in the digestive tract of Civet cats

nowadays has indeed spread widely. From the use of

(Paradoxurus hermaphroditus) and is usually harvested dry - with

environmentally friendly fuel, the recycling of goods, tour

the animal’s wholesome goods - is still the most expensive coffee

site selections and travel attitudes, up to the selection of

in the world. Even in one of the world’s famous coffee shops, the

food and beverage for daily consumption, this has also influenced

price of one cup can be up to Rp 500,000. It is said that for Civet

the coffee farmers in Bali in managing their plantations.

coffee connoisseurs, the coffee presents a flavor and fragrance that

Specifically, Robusta coffee farmers located in the district of Pupuan in the Tabanan regency as well as those in the sub district

is very distinctive. Still, these Bali coffee farmers whose farms are about a 1-2

of Busungbiu in Buleleng are now managing their 17,000 hectares

hour drive from the city center of Denpasar have the cunning to

of plantations organically. They no longer utilize chemicals and

gain even more added value for their plantations. Stemming from

factory made fertilizers for their coffee crops, instead they are

their organic management and the results of their observations,

substituting manure from their own farm’s cattle, pigs and goats.

they now breed live chirping Orange-headed Thrush (Zoothera

This way is much easier and cheaper and it also slightly increases the value of their coffee harvests. Once the coffee beans are roasted and ground, organic coffee powder can reach up to Rp

citrina) that are very popular among bird lovers. The local name of the bird is “Anis Merah”. These birds thrive there, finding a perfect habitat from food

55,000 per kilogram; in comparison, non-organic coffee powder

sources, courting and mating, making nests, laying their eggs and

gets from Rp 28,000-36,000 per kilogram in the national market.

caring for their chicks in the coffee plantation. Due to the large

This is of course still far less than the price of the Robusta or

amount of manure used at the plantations, many earthworms also

Arabica Luwak or Civet coffee of which powder can currently reach

thrive in the garden floor. These types of worms happen to be the

up to Rp 3 million per kilogram in the international market.

songbird’s favorite, which in turn nurtures its lovely high tone singing.

Indeed, ‘Kopi Luwak’ or Civet coffee that originates from the 42

BALI&BEYOND JUNE 2011

The body of the Anis Merah is approximately 21 cm with a


dominant orange-soil red plumage. Listening to their dynamic tunes for a long restful time is the favorite virtue among bird lovers. But its most distinctive feature is how the bird can shake its body from right to left over and over again while standing on a perch. Especially when they become very absorbed in their own singing. Hobbyists call it a state of being stoned, drunk, or even in trance. Perhaps an analogy to this would be the similar state a jazz musician would be in as he becomes engrossed in tracing every curve of tone that he feels through his performance, transporting the audience into his own different world.

Hence it is one of the main reasons why the selling price of an Anis Merah is no less fantastic. One adult songbird that has well developed vocal chords can fetch a high price of Rp 10 million. This price would increase even more when the bird is able to achieve champion status in a national level bird-singing contest. The prize for the champion bird alone can reach up to Rp 15 million. A great deal of money! Then how do these coffee farmers manage to combine the two worlds in a sustainable manner? Apparently, no one has taught them how but they have walked the talk on what is called by experts as in situ conservation breeding by way of sustainable harvesting. The method goes like this. Mature Anis Merah birds that originate from the forests surrounding the plantations are allowed to naturally mingle throughout the premises but remain closely observed. Their habits and behaviors become known, including aspects such as predatory species, nest locations, etc. When the eggs hatch, they harvest the nests containing chicks usually at the age of 3-8 days. Apparently after the harvest, usually less than one week, the parent birds will return again to their nesting sites. From the BALI&BEYOND JUNE 2011

43


observations of the farmers, a pair of breeding birds can produce an average number of three chicks in each nest. This means that on average, each year from a pair of birds a farmer can harvest up to 12 chicks. While some farmers are able to find all the nests in coffee plantations and harvest them, others only harvest 2-3 nests, and there are 2 of the 25 farmers who deliberately do not harvest the fourth nest of a pair of parents that nest in their garden, in hopes that the chicks from the nests that are not harvested are then naturally

comply with the three sanctions imposed, the Subak Abian would

raised by their parents to become adults and rebreed in the future.

bring the case to the police to be processed according to the laws

Via sustainable harvesting practices or sustainable harvesting in an environmentally-friendly way, throughout the year 2008-2009

in force in the republic. It is noted that only the Subak Abian of the Gunung Amerte

they have managed to harvest a record of 14,000 birds, with a

has quite specific rules aimed at possible Anis Merah bird theft in

single 8 day-old chick being worth Rp 260,000!

the coffee plantation area. Namely, a thief who gets caught taking

This scheme of coffee plantation management has been carried

chicks bears a fine of Rp 10,000 multiplied by the number of

out since 2001. This means that there are already hundreds of

members of the Subak Abian Gunung Amerte (which totals 166 for

thousands of Anis Merah chicks that have been successfully

heads of family) making a total fine of Rp 1,660,000 per head for a

‘harvested’ and ‘exported’ to the island of Java over the years.

stolen chick.

For the island of Java has become the largest market for these

This is very good local wisdom which can set a good example

songbirds. The most remarkable aspect being that it can still take

for other regions. For it is such a great influence for the preservation

place without disturbing the bird’s population in the wild.

of nature, lifestyle, and welfare of the communities. Although until

All efforts were also in regards to the customary rules (referred

now no tourism package activities specialize in coffee plantations,

to as awig-awig) obeyed by the Balinese community. One

the natural conditions, cultural practices and the kinds of animals

community organization that is structurally under the traditional

have promising tourism potential throughout the island of Bali.

village with the main function of governing the management of the plantations is called the Subak Abian.

Meanwhile from a height of 2,276 meters above sea level in this corner of Bali, the typical fragrance of the coffee flower wafts.

Several general rules are adopted by each Subak Abian, for

Where almost every morning, a farmer sits his front porch together

example regarding a theft or violator. First, a fine of three times the

with a relaxing smile, as accompanying him is a cup of fresh warm

price of the stolen goods. Second, return the stolen property to its

Robusta brew and the melodious chirps of the Anis Merah birds. ■

rightful owner. Third, a public apology in the Subak Abian meeting

Text by Drh. Oka Dwi Prihatmoko

attended and observed by all members. If the violator refuses to

Photos by Wisnu Prabowo S.Hut

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Where does Balimoon Liqueurs sell their products? At Balimoon Liqueurs we are always looking to expand our market. Currently we distribute through Bali, Jakarta & Surabaya to over 1000+ outlets including five stars hotels to nightclubs, bars, restaurants, retail outlets including duty free outlets. We also work with many event organizers and party planners to ensure quality cocktails are served at that very special occasion. With an existing international export network in place we are looking to expand our operation over further through 2011. What other products do Balimoon plan to introduce? Moving with market demands within the cocktail industry Balimoon plans to develop a series of new liqueurs in 2011 to keep up with the development of specialist cocktails not only within Indonesia but also through our International export network. In early March 2011 we will launch our new Vodka product to the market, with a series of Launch Parties in Bali, Jakarta and Surabaya. The new Vodka 9 product will enter the market at the upper end of the house pouring competing with Absolut and Smirnoff Vodka, with a price tag which allows guests to enjoy a premium tasting house pouring Vodka without paying premium prices. For more information about the range of Balimoon’s great tasting products or if wish to book a cocktail training program or perhaps need help with a party or event, please contact our sales office on: (0361) 284-333 or email us on info@ balimoonliqueurs.net


BALI&BEYOND JUNE 2011

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BEYONDBALI

TRADITIONAL ALOR:

HERE BE DRAGONS Everyone knows that the map of East Nusa Tenggara, the chain of beautiful and culturally diverse islands to the east of Bali, could be marked with the words “here be dragons”. Komodo, the first landfall in the province for travelers coming from the west, is famed for its huge reptiles, but if local legends are to be believed there are more dragons far to the east at the other end of East Nusa Tenggara on the remote island of Alor… 48

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Traditional houses in Takpala and Monbang (left). Alor – looking out over Kalabahi Bay from the hills of the Bird’s Head Peninsula. The steep, mountainous terrain of the island has played a key role in the development of some of the most spectacular linguistic diversity in Indonesia, and in the enduring strength of traditional beliefs.

A

lor is the last link in the stepping-stone chain

Alor’s capital is the little township of Kalabahi at the head of a

of islands that runs east from Java. On the

long narrow bay flanked by steep green hills. Kalabahi is the best

map it’s an insignificant place, smaller than

base for exploring the surrounding countryside, and you don’t

Bali and dwarfed by neighboring Timor. But

have to travel far beyond the town before you run into the first

this island with its fringe of white beaches

traditional villages.

and its dark myth-filled hills, is one of the

At least part of the reason why Alor is so culturally complex is

most culturally intriguing islands in all of Indonesia and a place with

the staggering linguistic diversity. Though the total population of

more than a few wild stories to boot…

the island is well under 200,000 as many as 17 totally separate

Alor was once the preserve only of travelers prepared to brave

languages are spoken here and on neighboring Pantar, and

fifteen-hour rides on overloaded ferries, but these days with

distinct dialects are numbered in the hundreds. Locals like to say,

daily flights from Kupang there’s a nascent tourism industry. The

without too much hyperbole, that in Alor every village has its own

majority of visitors who step off at Alor’s little airport are there

language – and every village has its own unique myths as well.

to dive in the deep, clear waters that surround the island. But

But there are some connecting threads that unite this Babel-

this is also a spectacularly rewarding place to explore traditional

like island. Inland villages are mostly Christian, while on the blue

villages and to dabble in the weird and wonderful mythology of

shoreline Muslims predominate. But for both communities dowries

the Alorese people.

are paid with moko drums. These bronze kettledrums are thought BALI&BEYOND JUNE 2011

49


Carvings on the ceremonial buildings in Lakatuli (above). Villagers in Alor Kecil, heartland of the dragon myths that coil through Alorese folklore (below).

Lakatuli stands, like many old villages on Alor, on a defensive ridge.

to have originated in the ancient Dongson civilization of northern

The roofs of the houses rise to great peaks of shaggy thatch over

Vietnam, but no one knows how they got to Alor – but locals will

platforms of smooth bamboo. Disks of wood stop mice from

tell you they appeared fully formed from the ground! Another

climbing the foundation poles to get at the food stored above, and

island-wide emblem is the circle of stones at the center of each

in the high roof space the villagers keep their mokos and other

village. Known as a misbah, this is the place where the heads of

sacred heirlooms. Locals work farming little plots cleared from the

their enemies taken during war were once placed – for Alor has a

steep slopes where they grow corn, tobacco and cassava. From

violent history. Supposedly pacified by the Dutch in the 1900s, in

the edge of the village a sweeping view of the ocean opens, with

fact clan wars and even headhunting continued well into the 20th

the dark hills of Alor’s northwest peninsula rising to the left.

Century. Today there is peace but the misbah is still the focus of

Up in those hills, where of course the local language is wildly

the lego-lego, the Alorese circle dance held to celebrate weddings

different from the Abui tongue spoken in Takpala, you’ll find more

and other ceremonies.

traditional villages and you’ll also run into the first tales of dragons.

Alor’s most famous traditional village lies about 15 kilometers

Monbang, just a few steep kilometers uphill from Kalabahi, is

east of Kalabahi. The ridge-top fastness of Takpala stands at

another village of tall thatched houses. The name of the place

the end of a steeply rising track through the trees from the coast.

means “Village of the Dragon” and on the peaks of the rooftops

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ALOR ISLANDS MALI LELAHOMI TATMANA

KOKAR

j

KISU ISLAND TERNATE ISLAND

PURA ISLAND

ALOR ISLAND

PAN

TAR

S

LANTOKA

PITEBEN LANLIKI

PANTAR ISLAND

MOLA

KALABAHI

TUTUMABEN

IT TRA MANATANG

OMBAI STRA

IT

TREWEG ISLAND

there are simple carvings of a serpent-like creature. In Alorese

position at the end of a razor-sharp ridge, hints at the troubled past

tradition, these carvings represent the guardian spirits of the

of Alor. Today no one lives in the village but its fabulously decorated

community in the form of a dragon.

traditional buildings are still the scene of ceremonies tied to the

Beyond Monbang a potholed road leads through the cool

harvests and the changing of the seasons. This is a place of rituals

green shade of the forest. White churches stand in little clearings

that long predate the arrival of either Islam or Christianity in Alor.

and there is a smell of wood smoke and fresh coffee. The road

The buildings, raised above the ground on thick wooden posts, are

leads eventually to the peaceful hilltop of Omtel, the highest spot in

decorated with elaborate carvings picked out in white, black and

this part of Alor, and the location of what locals claim is the grave

ochre and there are dragons carved into beams and joists.

of the first man in the world – a 20-meter-tall giant! But the best place to chase tales of dragons is in the villages on the cobalt-blue shores of Kalabahi Bay. In these little Muslim fishing communities the dragon is more than just a myth. Locals

There are more dragon carvings downhill in the villages of Alor Kecil and Alu Kai as talismans over doorways, motifs woven into ikat cloth, and as a mythical presence in the waters offshore. According to clan elders the people of this part of Alor are

swear that a great scaly beast really does live beneath the waters

descended from a man who rose fully formed from the ground

of the bay, and if you ask around you’ll probably meet someone

– like the moko drums – in Bampalola. He descended to the coast

who claims to have seen it.

where he married a princess of the Sea People, a clan of mermen

The cultural focus of the coastal communities is the village of

who, as the story goes, still have their own villages in the depths

Bampalola, perched on a high mountainside with a spectacular view

offshore. And the dragon, which rose from the ground before the

across the bay to the little conical island of Pura and the dark hills

first man, is the guardian of the community.

of Pantar beyond. Bampalola itself is a modern village but a path

At the end of the stony little peninsula that juts out like a

through the terraced maize fields leads to the spectacular ceremonial

crooked tooth at the mouth of Kalabahi Bay, on a shoreline of

complex of Lakatuli. This spot, occupying a perfect defensive

scaly black basalt rocks, is a shrine to the dragon. Decorated with carvings, this is a place where the people of Alor come to seek the power and protection of the beast, bringing offerings of coconuts and freshly slaughtered chickens and goats. Just offshore stands the little islet of Pulau Kepa, the location of some of Alor’s best dive sites. With all those stories of dragons and Sea People, even those who come to Alor in search only of bright corals, manta rays, sharks and sunfish would be well advised to keep an eye out for even more fabulous beasts in the

INDONESIA 52

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clear depths of the bay… ■ Text and photos by Tim Hannigan


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CAPITALCORNER

Jakarta Old Town, also known as Old Batavia, is a small area located in West and North Jakarta with the Sunda Kelapa port as the gateway to Old Batavia during the Dutch colonial era.

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J

akarta Old Town, also known as Old Batavia, is a small area located in West and North Jakarta with the Sunda Kelapa port as the gateway to Old Batavia during the

Dutch colonial era. Once dubbed the “Jewel of Asia” and “Queen of the East” by Europeans in the 16th century, Old Batavia played a very important role in commerce due to its strategic location. Jakarta Old Town is indeed a silent witness to the city’s rich history. It all started when Fatahillah seized the Sunda Kelapa Port in 1526 and changed its name to Jayakarta. Then in 1619, Jayakarta was attacked by the Dutch East India Company under the lead of Jan Pieterzoon Coen. The Dutch then built a new city over the ruins of Jayakarta and named it Batavia. Indigenous people of Batavia, who were descendants of various ethnicities in Indonesia, were called Batavian’s and later known as Betawi. The city of Batavia was designed as a defense fort surrounded by walls. The streets were divided into blocks separated by a canal, with gorgeous mansions that belonged to rich spice merchants and lots of big warehouses. When Japan occupied the country in 1942, Batavia was renamed Jakarta. In 1972 the then Governor of Jakarta Ali Sadikin issued a decree that officially made the Old Town area a heritage site in order to preserve the city’s architectural roots. However, after the governor resigned from his post not enough was done in protecting this legacy from the Dutch Colonial era. Had Sadikin’s vision come true, Old Town would have been a cozy area with tree-shaded cafes, cobblestone streets

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The famous heritage café named Café Batavia is another spot worth a visit in the Old Town area. A visit to the Kota Intan Drawbridge is a must in order to fully soak in the historical atmosphere. The bridge dates back 300 years and has been renamed five times.

and charming colonial-style buildings.

official Johannes Rach that showed a

musicians start to entertain. It is especially

But as of now the area reeks of sewage

fountain in the center of the city square.

crowded on weekends with families,

coming from the canal and on every

During the restoration the water pipes

heritage enthusiasts, photographers and

corner there are warehouses that have

were found intact and the fountain was

students flocking to the area.

fallen into disrepair, not to mention the

successfully restored.

chaotic bumper to bumper traffic that will dishearten anyone.

Located at the heart of the Old Town

For entertainment, there are bicycle rental services at the square. Staying

area, the 1.5 hectare Fatahillah Square

true to the theme, these bicycles are old

is right in front of the Jakarta Historical

bicycles dating back to 1945 called Ontel

that has managed to see the light of day

Museum, also known as the Fatahillah

bicycles. The rent is Rp 10,000 for 30

was the restoration of Fatahillah Square.

Museum, that was restored by the city

minutes.

Before it was restored the square was

administration in 2007.

One of Sadikin’s projects in Old Town

used as a crowded bus station. In 1972

The famous heritage café named Café

The square is pretty much the only

Batavia is another spot worth a visit in the

Italian designer Sergio Dello Strollogo

decent place for people to hang out in

Old Town area. Opened in 1993, the café

designed the restoration based on a

Old Town. It usually becomes lively in the

resides in an early 19th century building

drawing from United East India Company

afternoon when people gather and street

that served as a residence, warehouse

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For entertainment, there are bicycle rental services at the square. Staying true to the theme, these bicycles are old bicycles dating back to 1945 called Ontel bicycles. Strolling around in Old Town might not bring out the romantically nostalgic feeling one gets when strolling down heritage sites in other countries but it certainly has its own charm.

name referred to a watchtower at the west side of a Dutch fortress that had a diamond-shaped logo. To complete the Old Town experience, visit the Petak Sembilan market that is located in the Chinatown area of Jalan Kemenangan. It’s an open air traditional market with impossibly narrow alleys behind crooked houses that sells virtually everything from daily necessities such as vegetables, fruits, meats, beverages to pirated DVDs, Chinese traditional medicine and dubious items such as skinned frog legs and live bugs that are sold right next to an open sewer. It’s chaotic, dirty and very real. The Petak Sembilan market has been and office. It offers a unique décor as well

It was destroyed in the battle between

around since the 19th century. It started

as a historical atmosphere to add to its

the Mataram Kingdom and the Dutch and

when one or two of the residents in the

extensive international menu.

then was rebuilt in 1630 and transformed

area began to sell food from their homes.

into a drawbridge. During that time the

Soon almost everyone in the area started

from the filthy canal, a visit to the Kota

bridge was dubbed Hoenderpasarbrug or

to sell something and thus a market was

Intan Drawbridge is a must in order to

the Chicken Market Bridge in reference to

created. The market starts at the crack of

fully soak in the historical atmosphere.

a nearby poultry market.

dawn and by 7 am is already in full swing.

For those who don’t mind the stench

The bridge dates back 300 years and has

Another renovation in 1655 resulted

With its horrible traffic, filthy river

been renamed five times. Located on Jalan

in a new name, Het Middelpuntbrug or

and numbers of seedy spots, strolling

Kalibesar Barat in West Jakarta, the bridge

the Central Bridge. The last renovation

around in Old Town might not bring out

has been connecting the Pinangsia and Roa

occurred in 1938 when the bridge was

the romantically nostalgic feeling one

Malaka areas since it was first built in 1628.

renamed the Juliana-Bernhard Bridge as

gets when strolling down heritage sites in

tribute to the engagement of Princess

other countries but it certainly has its own

Juliana and Prince Bernhard.

charm, as proven by the flock that does

The bridge is called different names by the different generations. It was originally called Engelsbrug, which means the English

The last name change happened after

come to visit weekend after weekend. ■

Bridge, because in the 1600s the bridge

Indonesia gained its independence in

Text by Patricia Ivana

connected the English fortress on the west

1945. The bridge has since been called

Photos by Josua Alessandro

side to the Dutch fortress on the east side.

Kota Intan or the city of diamonds. The

www.escapadepictures.com

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BEYONDUPDATES

BIG CITY BREAK Mandarin Oriental, Jakarta launches its Big City Break Packages offering the most flexible stay options for an ideal weekend getaway. Guests can choose from one of three luxurious weekend packages. The “City Affair” package from Rp 1,988,000 nett includes breakfast at Cinnamon and the option of a Saturday Brunch in Lyon restaurant, evening dinner in Lyon restaurant or a couple’s massage in the beautifully appointed Wellness suites or the privacy of the bedroom. The “City Splendour” package is perfectly tailored for guests from other parts of Indonesia who would like to experience the big city, from Rp 2,488,000 nett that includes breakfast, a traditional massage for two in the Fitness and Wellness floor or in the guest room, and one-way airport transfers. “Suite and the City” is a completely lavish way to spend a luxurious weekend in the big city, from Rp 4,988,000 nett and includes breakfast, dinner, a couple’s massage in the beautifully appointed Wellness suites or the privacy of the guest’s suite, limousine transfers and special wine and chocolates upon check-in. www.mandarinoriental.com/jakarta

SET FOR SURABAYA The LJ Discovery Hotel Surabaya is set to open soon. The preopening team has set their sights on becoming Surabaya’s Number One hotel, providing refined luxury and privileged hospitality. It is the latest luxury 5 star hotel and the tallest in Surabaya, gracing the city’s skyline. Scheduled to open this month, the hotel plan consists of a nine-story building and a twenty five-story tower connected at the base with an atrium. The hotels interior is by award winning DP Design Singapore. The hotel’s General Manager Mr. Jeremy M Cooper is pictured together with the pre-opening team who are setting their sights on becoming Surabaya’s premier luxury hotel. The hotels 265 Deluxe, Premiere, Executive and Suite rooms have been beautifully designed with classic elegant décor and all the amenities of a modern luxury hotel including complimentary high-speed Internet access in all rooms, offering spectacular views over the city, and blending traditional Indonesian charm with professional hospitality. www.ljdiscoveryhotel.com

TIME TO GATHER Sales & Marketing teams from 12 properties of the Starwood Hotels & Resorts Indonesia pose together during the opening of Starwood Connection Day held recently at the Le Meridien Hotel Jakarta. The Sheraton Media Hotel & Towers assigned its sales team to set up a tabletop during the event where hotel’s promotions, facilities and services were detailed via face-to-face meetings with more than 100 buyers ranging from tour operators, travel agencies and various corporations. www.starwoodhotels.com 60

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Bali Tropic Resort & Spa

HOTELHIGHLIGHTS Bali Tropic Resort & Spa is an all-inclusive hotel that epitomizes the authentic Balinese architecture and style fringed by whitesand and crystalline sea--s. It combines nature, rejuvenating spa treatments, and a host of recreational activities to give you the ultimate tropical retreat... Perched gracefully between the ocean and the sky, embraced by the lush tropical landscape, resort serenity designed for indulgence, the ambience is definitely natural, a place of beauty beyond imagining. The resort offers 130 deluxe rooms, 14 royal bungalows and 3 2-bedroom suites, each featuring individually controlled air– conditioning, private bath/showers, satellite TV, IDD, minibars, and tea/coffee making facilities, safe deposit box. Vast choices for dining include three restaurants and four bars, serving international barbecue buffet dinner. Bali Tropical Spa has 10 treatment rooms with private shower and bathtub offering traditional massages, body scrubs, facial and other therapies to choose from.

All Inclusive Jl. Pratama 34A, Tanjung Benoa, Nusa Dua Tel: (62) 361 772130, Fax: (62) 361 772131 E-mail: hotel@balitropic-resort.com Website: www.balitropic-resort.com

Experience the authentic Balinese hospitality.

Danoya Villa

Holiday in Luxury Offering a modern spin on traditional, tropical villas, the residences at Danoya Villa combine open-plan architecture with an Indonesian touch. They are stylishly furnished and offer all the benefits that are expected at a luxury resort. In addition to the advantages of the estate’s prime location, on-site five-star facilities are provided exclusively for guests. The villas cater perfectly for relaxation and pure indulgence. Poolside wooden sun beds are a feature of the stunning pools that are surrounded by tropical gardens. There are 24-hour security and reception, laundry services, free Wi-Fi in villas, business centre with free internet access, spa and massage in villa, drop off shuttle bus service to Legian and Seminyak areas, and airport transfers by request. Danoya Villa is only 10 minutes by walk to Batubelig beach, 5 minutes drive to famous restaurants such as Métis, Sardine, Warung Sobat, and Nuri’s; 15 minutes to the entertainment and shopping district of Seminyak; and 25 minutes to Bali Ngurah Rai International Airport.

Jalan Batubelig 559, Kerobokan Kuta – Bali Tel: (0361) 735 305, Fax: (0361) 733 372 E-mail: reservation@danoya.com Website: www.danoya.com

Harris

Resort Kuta Beach - Bali Strategically located only few steps away from Kuta’s surfing paradise and its exciting nightlife. Experience the simple contemporary design with comfortable, unique ambience, and friendly spirit of all Harris “Players”. The resort features 191 rooms ranging from Harris room, Harris Pool Access room, Harris Terrace room, and Harris Suite room in fresh colors design. All rooms are equipped with cable television, free WiFi and are surrounded by a free-form swimming pool and Kids pool with waterslide. It is also a perfect meeting place for your business needs with 5 meeting rooms. A health conscious Harris Café offers a range of Indonesian, Asian, and International specialties with also healthy juices at our Juice Bar and Pizza & Pasta at Harrissimo.

Harris Resort Kuta Bali Jalan Pantai Kuta 80361 Tel: (0361) 753 868 Fax: (0361) 753 875 sales@harris-kuta-bali.com www.harrishotels.com

Free daily sport and leisure activities are available by the pool such as Yoga and our special dances the “Harris Moves”. Dino Kid’s Club features free fun games for children and H’Spa and Happy Feet Reflexology offers energizing and refreshing body treatments. Harris Resort Kuta is a fun place for everyone!

Space Available

Logo

Contact Bali & Beyond Advertising Sales department ricky@baliandbeyond.co.id for interesting offers that suits your promotional needs.

+62 361 8868601-2 BALI&BEYOND JUNE 2011

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BEYONDUPDATES

NEW IN NOVEMBER Aston International announced that the group will open a new international 4 star Hotel and Conference Center in Palembang, just in time for the 2011 SEA Games. The Aston Palembang Hotel & Conference Center is set to open in the summer of this year and will be half way between Palembang’s airport and the Central Business District on Jalan Basuki Rahmat, serving Palembang’s growing business travel and conference market as well as domestic leisure travelers in the surrounding area. The hotel will feature 147 elegant, modern and functional guest rooms and suites and feature extensive meeting facilities such as a large ballroom with a capacity of up to 600 guests and several auxiliary meeting rooms. With its classic sophistication and contemporary chic design, wide range of facilities and privileged location, the Aston Palembang Hotel & Conference Center will fill an increasing need for quality accommodation and professional meeting facilities in Sumatra, and open just in time for the 2011 South East Asia Games which are being held in Palembang this coming November. www.aston-international.com

BIT OF BALI IN BELGIUM? Sure was a sight. The celebration of Saraswati Day at the Pura Agung Santi Bhuwana temple in Belgium was held on April 25. More than 200 people in the Balinese community in Europe gathered, celebrating the holy day of Saraswati and a temple anniversary at the Pura Agung Santi Bhuwana, located in the Indonesian complex of Kingdom of Ganesha in Pairi Daiza, Belgium. The Semeton Bali community in Europe came from all over Belgium, The Netherlands, Germany, France, Switzerland, and Norway to rejoice and celebrate. The event was also attended by the Ambassador of the Republic of Indonesia, Mr. Arif Havas Oegroseno and the owner/CEO of Pairi Daiza, Mr. Eric Domb. For further information, contact the Indonesian Embassy staff that also acts as the kelian banjar or commuity head in Belgium, I Made Agus Wardana aguswardana@hotmail.com

BIRTHDAY SWINGS World no. 2 Lee Westwood gave himself the perfect birthday gift by winning the US$750,000 Indonesian Masters on April 24 for his first victory this year. With his victory Westwood, who celebrated his 38th birthday on the day, put himself in the strong position of regaining the world number one spot from Martin Kaymer if Luke Donald does not win in the United States. Westwood was forced to return to the clubhouse with one more hole to play as the fourth round at the Royale Jakarta Golf Club was suspended at 1.40pm due to lightning for an hour. He returned to par the last hole and closed with a solid threeunder-par 69 for a 19-under-par 269 total to win the inaugural Asian Tour event by three strokes. A fast charging Thongchai Jaidee of Thailand fired a flawless 65 to settle for second while Asian Tour newcomers Park Hyun-bin of Korea and Thitiphun Chuayprakong of Thailand shared third place with Bangladeshi Siddikur and Australian Marcus Both at 275. 62

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Hotel Santika Kuta Bali

HOTELHIGHLIGHTS Hotel Santika Kuta is a strategic base from which to explore the island of Bali at leisure. Located in the heart of Kuta’s vibrant shopping and dining district, the property is just minutes from the island’s celebrated sunset beach. Within easy reach to the airport and other popular sites of interest, Hotel Santika Kuta welcomes travellers from all walks of life with genuine hospitality. The Superior Room anticipates the needs of today’s traveller with a smart decor in earthy tones and modern conveniences to ensure a relaxing experience. It is an exceptionally comfortable base for business or leisure guests during their time on the island of Bali. Appetites are satisfied at Kafe Serani. This open-plan dining area serves an extensive buffet breakfast and a more substantial menu of Indonesian and Western cuisine as well as light refreshments.

Jln Raya Kuta 98, Kuta, Bali - Indonesia Ph: +62 361 764-033, 764-044 Fax: +62 361 764-041 kutabali@santika.com www.santikakutabali.com

Meet in style with a fully equipped meeting room located just off the lobby, designed to accommodate 50 participants in a classroom setup, and 35 delegates in a U-shape configuration. Meeting package rates with attractive incentives are available on request.

Maxi Hotel & Spa The Maxi Hotel & Spa is situated in the heart of Bali’s shopping and nightlife district. Centrally located, the property offers an ideal base for visitors wishing to explore Bali while keeping all the island’s best shops, bars, restaurants and beaches within easy walking distance. Hotel facilities and services include restaurant, bar, meeting room, massage and spa, room service, swimming pool with Jacuzzi, children’s pool, laundry and dry cleaning service, airport pickup and transfer, snack bar, tour desk, doctor on call, free car park, baby sitter upon request, broadband internet connection, major credit cards accepted, individually controlled air-conditioning, local and IDD telephone, satellite TV, daily mineral water, private bathroom with bathtub and shower, mini bar, personal electronic safe deposit, tea & coffee maker. The balcony overlooking the swimming pool and landscaped tropical garden offers a private area for relaxing. The hotel is less than 15 minutes from Ngurah Rai International Airport; 20 minutes drive to Denpasar, 30 minutes from Sanur, Nusa Dua and within 45 minutes drive to the artistic centre of Ubud and about 350 meters from Bali’s famous Kuta Beach.

Jl. Legian 83A, Legian Tel: (0361) 754-082 Fax: (0361) 750-792 E-mail: info@maxi-hotel.com Website: www.maxi-hotel.com

Mentari Sanur Hotel The Mentari Sanur Hotel is tucked away down a small side street just off Jalan Hangtuah at the northern end off Sanur, Bali’s most enchanted village. Shaded by frangipani trees, this two-storey 28 rooms hotel offers the ideal combination of modern facilities and a charming Balinese atmosphere with family style hospitality and service. A large luxury private swimming pool is the right place for you to pamper your self and relax in a privacy atmosphere under a warm tropical sun. Tunjung Restaurant offers a combination of continental and traditional Balinese dining, cozy lounge is the area where you can sit down, relax, and bar will serves you varieties of drinks. Free exclusive broadband internet access. Located in a tranquil coastal village of Sanur make the Mentari Sanur Hotel is situated in an ideal location with immediate access to the main highway and just minutes from many great tourist activities and attraction, 25 minutes drive to the Ngurah Rai International Airport, 20 minutes drive to Kuta Beach, 5 minutes drive to the Sanur shopping area, 10 minutes drive to Denpasar and 30 minutes to Ubud.

Jl. Hangtuah III No.3, Sanur Tel: (0361) 283-286, Fax: (0361) 283-017 E-mail: sales@mentarisanur.com Website: www.mentarisanur.com

The Dreamland Luxury Villas & Spa The Dreamland Luxury Villas & Spa is a new destination for those who want to experience the atmosphere of first class service with state of the art facilities. 42 Private Pool Villas are available with different categories; 1 bedroom suite villa, 2 and 3 bedroom family villas to meet every guest’s dream.

Jl. Raya Uluwatu, Br. Bakung Sari, Ungasan, South Kuta, Bali Tel. (0361) 708 199; Fax. (3361) 708 168 E-mail: reservation@dreamland-villa.com sales@dreamland-villa.com www.dreamland-villa.com

The Dream Spa is a fantastic hide away spa destination for the mind, body and soul. Featuring 3 Romantic Spa Rooms with double spa bed, shower, Jacuzzi, Sauna and spa locker. From the moment you enter into the resort’s lobby you can see the amazing Ocean Views, nice breeze, breathe in the fresh air, you can feel the sensation of the tranquil up hill environment. The Dream Spa is where a heavenly atmosphere invites you to relax, with an assortment of treatments invite you to indulge. Let the sensation of the Dream Spa’s atmosphere pamper and comport you soon. In the Ungasan village, high on the southernmost peninsula of the island of Bali. Ten minutes to Dreamland beach, from your villa by our free shuttle service. BALI&BEYOND JUNE 2011 63


COMMUNITYCALENDAR

GET UP, STAND UP! In conjunction with its 40th anniversary “40 days that rock” celebration, Hard Rock International is bringing a slice of Jamaica to Asia when its global Ambassadors of Rock Tour rolls into Bali. On Wednesday June 15, Hard Rock will bring reggae legends The Wailers to the stage at Hard Rock Cafe Bali for a one-night-only special performance. The Wailers are best known for their invigorating, energizing music and hit singles including “Get Up Stand Up” and “I Shot the Sheriff.” Their tour will include Hard Rock Hotel Singapore on June 11, June 17 at the Hard Rock Hotel Pattaya, and June 18 at the Hard Rock Hotel Penang. For ticket information call (0361) 755-661.

ENCHANTED FOREST Raining Heart Productions announces the premiere show of the new fully realized theatrical show “Regalia - The Enchanted Forest” at the Bali Theatre (Bali Safari and Marine Park) on June 4. The show begins at 7pm and the dress code is smart casual. After this initial premiere event, the “Regalia-The Enchanted Forest” will be performing at the Bali Theatre twice a week until the end of December 30 on Friday and Saturday evenings from 6-7.15pm. Tickets for the special premiere on June 4th are available at the Bali Safari and Marine Park, Kuta Centre B/1 (0361) 751-300, Bali Discovery Tours, Discovery Kartika Plaza Hotel, Bali Dynasty Resort, Bounty Hotel and Mannekepis, or for further information contact: info@rainingheart.com

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BATIK-SCAPES Danu Gallery at Lakeview in Penelokan, Kintamani presents a solo visual art exhibition by Sandy Infield, which takes place in Bali and Java. “Patterns of being: home in Bali” is held through June 18 at Danu Gallery, while “Patterns of belonging: homage to Java” is held through June 6 at Sangkring Artspace in Nitiprayan, Yogyakarta. Open discussions were held in the preceding month with “Contemporary Batik Art or Craft?”, “Vernissage” hosted by Putu Sutawijaya, and an Artist Workshop “Landscape as expression”. These landscapes unique to Java and Bali of terraced paddy fields hugging the feet of cloud-draped majestic volcanoes are evoked in batik motifs by Sandy Infield in a tribute that pays homage to the threads that tie the Javanese and Balinese to their identity. A graduate of the Slade in the UK, Sandy Infield painted in Italy on a Boise scholarship for a year before sharing a London studio with kinetic painter Bridget Riley.


DININGDIRECTORY

Basilico Italian Pavilion & Bar

Budesa Indonesia Grill & Seafood

B

D

asilico Italian Pavilion & Bar is an elegant, yet cozy, Italian restaurant, with indoor and outdoor garden seating. It offers an intimate dining room with great views of the sea, beach and marvelous gardens. The restaurant serves fresh home-made pasta, pizza and other Italian specialties. Enjoy the relaxing ambience and savor a truly satisfying dining experience.

o you often feel tired and confused with your daily bustles? Do you miss the cool rural atmospheres? Do you want to enjoy your meal in peace and friendliness?

Head to the newly opened Budesa Restaurant in Kuta, where you can enjoy a meal in a calm and cozy atmosphere.

Located right on the sandy beach of Sanur and surrounded by 7 hectares of tropical garden, discover a perfect culinary experience at Sanur Beach Bali.

Come as you are, and be greeted by the rushing sounds of clear water and rural voices. Select your live gourami, crab, or favorite selection from our live aquariums, and savor the best flavors with our authentic Indonesian recipes in no time.

Open daily for lunch and dinner from 11.00am – 11.00pm

Enjoy the delicious Indonesian food and fresh seafood dishes. For reservations, please dial: (0361) 7955-909 or (0361) 768-244

Basilico Italian Pavilion & Bar Jl. Danau Tamblingan, Sanur 80228, Bali Indonesia P.62 361 288011 F.62 361 281 755 E-mail: hsb.fb@aerowisatahotels.com www.sanurbeachhotelbali.com

Budesa Indonesia Grill & Seafood Jalan By-Pass Ngurah Rai No. 888 Simpang Siur, Kuta - Bali P. 62 361 7955909 F. 62 361 768 244 info@budesa-restaurant.com budesa-restaurant.com

BRASSERIE

Rush Bamboo Restaurant

Dining Inspiration ...

Japanese fusion-style cooking arrives at The Elysian

C

Commencing this April, Rush Bamboo Restaurant presents our guests with a completely new concept for Bali. Inspired by the variety of worldwide cuisines that continue to arrive in Bali along with the increase in tourism from distant shores, Executive Chef Surya Negara (aka, Chef Banjar) will be creating a series of unique, Japanese-inspired fusion meals.

omes with a new concept and new look, BRASSERIE invites you to a temptation of endeavoring the scrumptious fresh food selections in a warm and stunning ambience with air conditioned dining room or terrace setting. Located at Jalan Kartika Plaza, Kuta next to Bali Rani Hotel, BRASSERIE is open daily for all day dining from 11 am to 12 midnight, serving variety of fresh tasty seafood, home-made pasta & pizza, teppanyaki, tantalizing asian and western specialties. Feel the journey of culinary delights, from the delectable appetizer to the mouth – watering dessert with affordable prices of the best food quality. Enjoy 10 % discount for food & beverage until 30 June 2011, not valid for double discount.

BRASSERIE Jl. Kartika Plaza ( next to BALI RANI HOTEL ), Kuta, Bali T +62 361 751369 ext.709

Chef Banjar will design an original 4-course set menu every day but only after a visit to the local markets. This means he can take advantage of the freshest produce, ensuring taste sensations that are both innovative and exhilarating. Each meal presentation will reflect the exotic flavours and delicate touch of Japanese cuisine yet will always take a note of inspiration from his Balinese background.

THE ELYSIAN Jl. Sari Dewi 18, Seminyak, Kuta, Bali Indonesia 80361 T +62 361 730999 • F +62 361 737509 E info@theelysian.com • www.theelysian.com

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COMMUNITYCALENDAR

TWO WINDOWS Hanna Artspace presents a painting exhibition by Pieter Deiman and Ikay Khairul through Two Windows Looking at Bali. This exhibition displays works by two modern painters from outside Bali who live on the Island of the Gods. It shows that the Bali in the 21st century remains a compelling and inspiring place for domestic and foreign artists to be creative. This exhibition offers a glimpse of the Balinese view of the present sensed by current artists who come from outside the island resort. Pieter first set foot in Indonesia in 1978, and the series travels over the years to various countries in Asia. In 1986 and 1987 he had the opportunity to visit Bali for several months. Pieter immediately fell in love. He saw Bali, which was then not too rumbled by the explosion of tourism, as a special place that is ideal and inspiring to paint. Ikay’s paintings explore the human psychology of disintegrating urban experience of reality. In the works of Ikay, reality has been lost and is replaced by the shadows that flood abstract visual memory. www.hannaartspace.com

YOUNG LANDSCAPES Ganesha Gallery presents an exhibition of art by the children of Art in English titled Landscape. Landscape is held through June 27 with gallery opening hours from 9 am - 6 pm. The young students at Art in English, a non-profit organization operating in Gianyar since 2003, are blissfully unaware of intellectualisms. The aim of the project is to provide a space for the children to learn drawing, painting and English while having fun. From the stunning results seen here they are not only doing that but also making fantastic art. Ganesha Gallery, Four Seasons Resort at Jimbaran Bay, (0361) 701-010

ANGELS DESCEND Bali’s business community, entrepreneurs, and social butterflies descend on Ku De Ta each year to raise money for the I’m An Angel Foundation. All “Angels” mark their calendars and get ready for June 18 at 7pm, for this special night for a worthy cause. I’m An Angel has grown each year since its inception in 2003, and has now contributed over US$400,000 to some of Bali’s neediest residents. Six acclaimed international chefs will contribute their time and energy to make this the biggest night of the year. Ku De Ta’s resident genius Phil Davenport welcomes Ryan Clift of the Tippling Club in Singapore, Enrico Wahl from the Oberoi Hotel, Will Meyrick of Sarong, Oscar Perez from the St. Regis, and finally, Will Goldfarb of Room4Dessert in New York. Expect delights from the six course menu such as seared scallop with crispy duck, Thai basil, young coconut, and nahm jim in Will Meyrick’s Sarong style. This year’s auction for I’m an Angel features several wonderful items, from hard to find cigars and private jets to beachfront villas, but the gem has to be the world’s most sought after micro car, a light blue Smart Car Passion Cabriolet, which the lucky winner can drive for one year. Raffle tickets are on sale now, and for as little as Rp 100,000 for 1 ticket (10 tickets at Rp 900.000) you can help a great local nonprofit organization. Ku De Ta (0361) 736-969; www.kudeta.net 66

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SEE&SEEN

EXCHANGE TREAT Nusa Dua Beach Hotel & Spa recently welcomed Greek chef Prokopis Kouris from the Elounda Beach Hotel to the property as part of its chef exchange program. Prokopis spent weeks learning the art of preparing and cooking traditional Balinese cuisine at Raja’s, the only authentic, fine-dining restaurant on the island. On April 12, members of Bali’s tourism media joined together for a Greek lunch. www.nusaduahotel.com

LAUGHTER LOFT CHAINE REACTION Ju Ma Na Restaurant at Banyan Tree Ungasan hosted their Chaine des Rottiseurs dinner in April, attended by 52 guests and members. Guests waited for the sun to set while enjoying the signature cocktail of Ju Ma Na Bar- Ju Ma Na Royal with Bali chic as the theme of the night. Chef Mandif and his culinary team had prepared a special range of menus and wine pairings. Banyan Tree Ungasan, (0361) 300-7000 www.banyantree.com

THE BULL RUMBLED Raditya Rondi bested last year’s Rumble in Da Jungle winner Pepen Hendrik in May’s event in a 30 minute man-on-man battle in testing 56 foot wave conditions to claim victory and the additional distinction of being the first goofyfooter to ever win the legendary event. The stylish and aggressive goofyfooter from Kuta nicknamed ‘the Bull’ took home a winners check for Rp 15 million and 3,000 Coca-Cola ISC Championship points, and now sits in second spot in the 2011 rankings, having finished equal third in the first event on the Coca-Cola ISC Tour in April. www.isctour.com 68 BALI&BEYOND JUNE 2011

Bali Comedy Club and SOS Supper Club at the Anantara Seminyak Resort & Spa recently collaborated, featuring a trio of top class stand-up comedians including America’s Tom Rhodes. Tom Rhodes, one of America’s best comedians who has wowed the Tonight Show with Jay Leno and also rocked his own shows on Comedy Central, first impressed Anantara’s elite comedy seekers back in 2001. Anantara Seminyak Resort & Spa, Bali, (0361) 737-773 www.anantara.com

TOOK TO THE ROADS Aerowisata Hotels & Resorts held its recent Road Show in March for the second time this year, covering Jakarta, Bandung, Semarang, Yogyakarta, Surabaya and Denpasar. In Denpasar the team invited agents and media for a dinner gathering. The Road Show was followed by 15 Sales & Marketing team members of hotel units, intoducing its subsidiary, PT Aero Hotel Management, which now manages a total of 13 properties. www.aerowisatahotels.com


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FUN, FOOD N’ FASHION Aston Bali Beach Resort & Spa held an evening of food and fashion as a charity event to support the Dharma Jati II Hindu Orphanage in March. Aston Bali Beach Resort & Spa arranged a delicious Balinese Buffet Dinner, cultural show, fashion show and auction. The children from the orphanage were invited by Aston Bali Beach Resort & Spa to attend the function and to entertain the guests during the evening through traditional dance performances and a choir in 3 different languages, as well as a fashion show. Yayasan Dharma Jati II, Jl Trengguli 80 Penatih Denpasar; (0361) 461-781; www.astonbali.com

CULINARY CHAMPS Champions of the Salon Culinaire 2011 on April 6-9 at the Jakarta International Expo Kemayoran were the team from St. Regis Bali Resort with chef I Gusti Agung Gede Agung assisted by I Gede Leo Adi Sukma accompanied by Oscar Perez as Director of Kitchen Complexes. The Asian Junior Chefs Challenge Bali team consisted of students Cornelius Eggy Andreas (STP Bali), Riyan Adi Permana (STP Bali), and Gerry Girianza Ekaputra (STP Bandung) from Young Chefs Club - Bali Chapter lead by Kristiawan Hendro Ciputro as team leader. The MLA Black Box Culinary Challenge Indonesian finals crowned the team from Bulgari Bali with Team Captain Wayan Wicaya, Gusti Ngruah, Bayu Retno Timur and Michael Leuwol.

DECADE DAZZLE Bali Masari Villas & Spa recently celebrated its 10th Anniversary on May 9. The evening featured dignitaries and members of the island’s tourism industry on the invitation lists including the Bupati (Regent) of Gianyar, Dr. Ir. Cokorda Gede Oka Artha Ardana Sukawati (left), who upon arrival was welcomed by Mr. Ferry K. Sutedja (right), the Director of PT. Dewa Arma Asri (the owning company of the resort). Introducing both was A.A.Gede Rai (center), the General Manager of the resort. www.balimasarivillas.com

CARE IN COLLABORATION Inna Grand Bali Beach (IGBB) and Thai Airways organized a ‘Clean for Green’ activity in Sanur on April 30. The event was in conjunction with the anniversary of the hotel and the 51st anniversary of Thai Airways on May 1, held with a range of social and environmental activities. All participants took part in cleaning up plastic rubbish along the Sanur Beach. The management of IGBB and Thai Airways released nine turtle hatchlings to the sea accompanied with the vibrant baleganjur gamelan music, as well as tree planting activities. www.thaiairways.com

MADE WAVES World champion wake boarder Daniel Grant visited Bali last month, giving demonstrations at the Rip Curl School of Surf in Sanur. The 13-year-old Rip Curl team rider from Thailand has sealed his place in wakeboarding and wake skating history by being the youngest Pro Wakeboard champion at the international level. Grant is the only rider to have podium finishes in both pro wake board and pro wake skate divisions at an international tournament. www.ripcurschoolofsurf.com 70

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NASI BALI RESTAURANT & BAR

Situated in front of Adi Dharma Cottages at the heart of Kuta, a right place to indulge yourself in international taste topped up with Balinese hospitality. Nasi Bali is the only restaurant in Legian – Kuta Bali that serves Balinese authentic cuisine, Indonesian, Mexican and western dishes. At Nasi Bali, the chef use the finest ingredients to ensure good taste and finishing while bartender serves array of juices, soft drinks, beer, wines, spirits and fashionable cocktails. This casual restaurant and bar also offers occasional entertainment such as modern beats or Traditional Balinese music. Open 07:00 hrs to 24:00 hrs for breakfast, lunch and dinner NASI BALI RESTAURANT & BAR c/o. Adi Dharma Cottages Jln. Legian 155, Kuta – Bali 80361 Indonesia Phone : 62 361 751527 | fax : 62 361 753803 E mail : info@adidharmahotel.com | www.adidharmahotel.com

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SKAL INTERNATIONAL BALI An International Association of Travel and Tourism Professionals Doing Business Among Friends A FABULOUS FAMILY AND FRIENDS EVENING AT HARD ROCK HOTEL One hundred Skal members, family and friends gathered at Hard Rock Hotel on Friday May 6 for a super BBQ with entertainment and desserts ‘to die for’ that will bring back fond memories of a fun evening for months to come. Plans for a poolside evening had to be changed due to out of season rain but Andrew Khoo’s Hard Rock team, lead by Brad Calder, smoothly shifted the event indoors without a hitch. The dexterity and fire act of the barman’s show wowed everyone. At the end of the evening many adjourned to Centre Stage to enjoy more live entertainment.

SKAL BALI’S 155 MEMBERS MEET MONTHLY AT THE BEST VENUES. SET FOR 2011 ARE: June 10, Sanur Beach – Sanur July 1, Courtyard by Marriot Bali - Nusa Dua plus golf at Bali Golf and Country club August 5, Sanur Paradise Plaza – Sanur September 9, Ayodya Resort - Nusa Dua October 7, Golden Lotus at Dynasty - Kuta November 4, Hu’u Bar - Petitenget Skal International, the World’s largest travel and tourism organization, founded 1934 in Paris, numbers 20,000 management and professional members in 450 clubs in 90 countries. Skal Bali, Southeast Asia’s largest Skal Club, a leader in growth worldwide Membership and Information - contact our Secretariat Manager Gede Juwena Telephone: 7840212, email: gede@skalbali.com

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+ Medical C Cafe H Hotel E M Market M Museum S Shopping S R Restaurant Corps Diplomatique CD


CLASSIFIEDCOLUMNS

ACTION & ATTRACTION

INTERNATIONAL NEWSPAPERS BALI ORCHID GARDEN – Enjoy the

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program and most suitable facilities to make sure your goal achieved!

www.baliquad.com; www.balibuggy.com

Email : info@adventureindonesia.co.id, Tel (021) 7194427/7182256

BALI&BEYOND JUNE 2011

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INFOINDEX AIRLINES ■ AIRPORT OPERATOR: Tel: (0361) 751-011

■ CHILE: Jl. Jl. Pengembak Gg 1 No. 3, Sanur, Denpasar Tel: (0361) 756-781, Fax: (0361) 756-783 E-mail: chilehonconsulate@bali-villa.com

■ SWEDEN & FINLAND: Segara Village Hotel, Jl. Segara Ayu Tel: (0361) 282-211, Fax: 282-211 E-mail: sweconsul@yahoo.com

■ CATHAY PACIFIC AIRWAYS: Wisthi Sabha Building, 2nd Floor Ngurah Rai International Aiprort Call Centre: 0804-1-888888

■ CZECH REPUBLIC: Jl. Pengembak 17 Sanur. Tel: (0361) 286-465, Fax: (0361) 286-408 E-mail: bali@honorary.mzv.cz

■ SWITZERLAND & AUSTRIA: Istana Kuta Galeria Blok Valet 2 No 12, Kuta Tel: (0361) 751-735, Fax: (0361) 754-457 E-mail: bali@honorarvertretung.ch

■ CONTINENTAL MICRONESIA: Tel: (0361) 768-358, Fax: (0361) 768-369

■ FRANCE: Jl. Mertasari Gg. II No. 8, Sanur Tel: (0361) 285-485, Fax: (0361) 286-406 E-mail: consul@dps.centrin.net.id

■ THAILAND: Jl. Puputan Raya No. 81, Renon, Denpasar Fax: (0361) 263-310 E-mail: rtc_bali@thaimail.com

■ ROYAL BRUNEI: Tel: (0361) 757-292 ■ SINGAPORE AIRLINES: Jl. I Gusti Ngurah Rai, Airport Tel: (0361) 768-388, Fax: (0361) 768-383 ■ GARUDA: Jl. Jalan Sugianyar 5 Denpasar Tel. (0361) 227-824, Fax: (0361) 226-298 24-hour access: 08071-807-807 ■ MERPATI: Jl. Melati No. 51, Denpasar Tel: (0361) 235-358 Airport Tel: (0361) 751-011, ext. 5240/5242 Hotline: Tel: (0361) 722-740, 722-741 ■ MANDALA AIRLINES: Komp. Plaza Kertawijaya, Jl. Diponogoro No. 98, Denpasar Reservation Call center 08041234567 ■ NGURAH RAI AIRPORT: Tel/Fax: (0361) 759-761 ■ THAI INTERNATIONAL: Grand Bali Beach Sanur, Tel: (0361) 288-141 ■ QATAR AIRWAYS: Discovery Kartika Plaza Hotel, South Kuta Beach Tel: (0361) 752-222; Fax: 753-788. Wisti Sabha Building, 2nd Floor, Ngurah Rai International Aiprort, Tel: (0361) 760-274 Fax: (0361) 760-275 ■ DEPARTURE Arrive at the airport two hours prior to departure. A Rp. 150,000 international departure tax is required. Domestic departure fee is Rp 30,000. Residents pay an additional Rp. 2.5 million Fiscal tax for international departures, whereas holders of official tax registration (NPWP) numbers are Fiscal tax-exempt. Ngurah Rai Intíl Airport, Tel: (0361) 751-011

CONSULATES ■ AUSTRALIA, CANADA, NEW ZEALAND: Jl. Tantular No. 32, Renon - Denpasar 80234 Tel: (0361) 241-118, Fax: (0361) 221-195 E-mail: bali.congen@dfat.gov.au www.bali.indonesia.embassy.gov.au ■ BRITAIN: Jl. Tirta Nadi 20, Sanur, Denpasar Tel: (0361) 270-601, Fax: (0361) 287-804 E-mail: bcbali@dps.centrin.net.id ■ BRAZIL: Jl. Raya Legian No. 186, Kuta Tel: (0361) 757-775, Fax: (0361) 751-005 E–mail: brazilconsul@bali.net

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■ GERMANY: Jl. Pantai Karang 17, Batujimbar, Sanur Tel: (0361) 288-535, Fax: (0361) 288-826 Email: germanconsul@bali-ntb.com ■ HUNGARY: Marintur, Jl. By Pass Ngurah Rai 219, Sanur. Tel: (0361) 287-701, Fax: (0361) 287-456 Email: huconbali@telkom.net ■ ITALY: Lotus Enterprises Building Jl. Bypass Ngurah Rai, Jimbaran Tel: (0361) 701-005, Fax: (0361) 701-005 E-mail: italconsbali @italconsbali.org ■ JAPAN: Jl. Raya Puputan 170, Denpasar Tel: (0361) 227-628, Fax: (0361) 265-066 E-mail: konjpdps@indo.net.id ■ MALAYSIA: Alam Kulkul Boutique Resort Jl. Pantai Kuta Tel: (0361) 752-520, Fax: (0361) 766-373 E-mail: info@consulmalaysia-bali.com ■ MEXICO: PT Puri Astina Putra Building Jl. Prof. Moh. Yamin 1A, Renon, Denpasar Tel: (0361) 223-266, Fax: (0361) 244-568 E-mail: consulmex@astinatravel.com ■ NETHERLANDS: KCB Travel, Jl. Raya Kuta 127, Kuta Tel: (0361) 761-502, Fax: (0361) 752-777 E-mail: dutchconsulate@kcb-tours.com ■ ROYAL DANISH: Jalan By Pass Ngurah Rai, no. 229, Sanur Tel: (0361) 8216-979, Fax: (0361) 287-931 E-mail: danishconsbali@gmail.com ■ POLAND: Jl. Raya Petitenget No. 11, Block I/C, Banjar Umasari, Kerobokan Tel: (0361) 732-165, Fax: (0361) 732-165 E-mail: consul@balipolandconsulate.com ■ SLOVAKIA: Jl.Gunung Agung 93, Denpasar 80118 Tel: (0361) 426-171, Fax: (0361) 426-477 E-mail: konsulslowakbali@yahoo.com ■ SPAIN: Istana Kuta Galeria, Blok Vallet 2, No. 11 Jl. Patih Jelantik, Kuta Tel: (0361) 769-296, Fax: (0361) 769-296 E-mail: espana_bali@blueline.net.id

■ TIMOR LESTE: Jl. Prof. Yamin No. 4, Renon, Denpsar Tel: (0361) 235-093, Fax: (0361) 235-092 E-mail: cgtl@dpsbali.com ■ UNITED STATES: Jl. Hayam Wuruk 188, Denpasar Tel: (0361) 233-605, Fax: (0361) 222-426 E-mail: amcobali@indosat.net.id

HEALTH&MEDICAL Call an ambulance by dialing 118, but it is a lot more practical and quicker to hire a taxi. Most hotels have on-call doctors on standby. For “Bali Belly”, Lomotil and Imodium eliminate symptoms, but not gastro-related infections. A fever along with symptoms requires doctor-prescribed antibiotics. Drink as much liquid as possible. Isotonic drinks under various brand names are widely available and are known to replenish body hydration and replace fluids. For discomfort, diarrhea and cramping, drink strong, hot tea; avoid fruits and spicy foods. Some day-biting mosquitoes carry dengue fever, but this is not a problem in tourist areas. Bali is non-malarial and prophylaxis is not required. Mosquito bites, cuts or abrasions easily become infected in the tropics. Treat them immediately. Drink only bottled or boiled water. Peel fruit before eating; avoid raw vegetables except at reputable restaurants. Ice in restaurants is safe. Protect yourself from the intense equatorial sun. Use high SPF sunblock and a hat. AIDS and sexually transmitted diseases are increasing in Indonesia. Local sex workers have multiple partners from around the world. They are not checked for sexually transmitted diseases. Act responsibly and use condoms, available over the counter at pharmacies.

HOSPITAL ■ INTERNATIONAL SOS CLINIC: 24-hour emergency medical clinic services, medical evacuation, multilingual staff. Jl. Bypass Ngurah Rai 505X, Kuta 80361. Tel: (0361) 710-505, Fax: (0361) 710-515. ■ RUMAH SAKIT UMUM PUSAT SANGLAH (General Hospital): Jl. Diponegoro, Sanglah, Denpasar. Tel: (0361) 227-911/15.

MUSEUMS ■ AGUNG RAI MUSEUM OF ART (ARMA):

Ubud, Tel: (0361) 976-659, Fax: 974-229. Jl. Pengosekan, Ubud, open daily 8 am-6pm. ■ ABIAN KAPAS: Tel: (0361) 227-176 East Denpasar. ■ ANTONIO BLANCO: Tel: (0361) 975-502, 975-551, Ubud, open daily 8 am-5 pm. ■ ARCHAEOLOGICAL MUSEUM: Tel: (0361) 942-352, Pejeng. Open 8 am - 3 pm weekdays. ■ GEDONG KIRTYA HISTORICAL LIBRARY: Tel: (0362) 25141, Jl. Veteran, Singaraja. Open 7am - 3pm Monday - Thursday, until Fridaynoon, closed on weekends. ■ GALLERY SENIWATI: Jl. Ubud Raya, Gianyar. Tel: (0361) 975-485 ■ MUSEUM BALI: Tel: (0361) 235-059, 222-680, Jl. Let. Kol Wisnu, Denpasar. ■ MUSEUM LE MAYEUR: Tel: (0361) 286-164, Jl. Hang Tuah, Sanur. Open 8 am - 2 pm, Tuesday - Sunday. ■ MUSEUM MANUSA YADNYA: Mengwi, open daily, but often unattended. ■ MUSEUM NEKA: Tel: (0361) 975-074, 975-034, Jl. Raya Campuan, Ubud open daily 9 am - 5 pm. ■ MUSEUM PURI LUKISAN: Tel: (0361) 975-136, 971-159, Jl. Raya Ubud, Ubud, www.mpl-ubud.com ■ MUSEUM RUDANA: Tel: (0361) 975-779, 976-479, Peliatan, Ubud. ■ MUSEUM SUBAK: Tel: (0361) 810-315, Jl. Raya Kediri, Desa Sanggulan, Tabanan.

TOURIST INFO. ■ INTEGRATED TOURISM INFORMATION CENTER (ITIC) A one-stop tourist information complex of ten provinces in Indonesia comprising Bali, Lampung, Jakarta, Banten, West Java, Central Java, East Java, Jogjakarta. Jl. Raya Kuta 2, Kuta, 80361; Tel: (0361) 766-188 ■ NGURAH RAI INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT: Tel: (0361) 751-011 ■ BADUNG GOVERNMENT TOURISM OFFICE: Jl. Kuta Raya 2, Kuta Tel: (0361) 756-175/76 ■ BALI GOVERNMENT TOURISM OFFICE: Jl. Supratman, Niti Mandala, Renon, Denpasar Tel: (0361) 222-387 ■ SINGARAJA TOURIST INFORMATION OFFICE: Jl. Veteran 23, Singaraja Tel: (0362) 251-41 ■ UBUD TOURIST INFORMATION SERVICE: Jl. Raya Ubud, Gianyar Tel: (0361) 96-285, 973-285; 8 am - 9 pm.


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Bali & Beyond Magazine June 2011 edition  

The Sun... The Sand... The Surf... The Culture of Paradise... and Over 18,000 Surrounding Islands

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