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Bali Expat­­ ­◆ 19th December 2012 – 15th January 2013

Indonesia's Largest Expatriate Readership | 14th Edition | 19th December 2012 – 15th January 2013

Santa in Bali by THEO WIDHARTO


19th December 2012 – 15th January 2013 ◆ Bali Expat­­­

Dear Readers When I was around seven-years-old, my family had a Christmas in Lombok and, even though this is the tropics, I still remember feeling the magic of Christmas all around and was sure I could hear Santa’s sleigh bells upon falling asleep on Christmas Eve. It always amazed me how the jolly red giant made it to this part of the world, and managed to fill our stockings even without a chimney around for him to climb down – not to mention how he knew which hotel we were staying at! But he was real because as children, we believed in magic.

14th Edition | 19 th December 2012 – 15th January 2013

Editor in Chief Angela Richardson Management Edo Frese

As adults, we lose that belief and Christmas becomes more of a celebration for the children, which is fine, but hopefully you haven’t lost all of that festive enchantment. I see an element of magic around Bali in a very unusual place with the many projects going up at the moment. During the day, you hardly see anyone on work sites, and when you do they don’t seem to be doing much and are only wearing their ‘safety flip flops’, sans helmet, with not much in the way of heavy machinery to be seen. During the evenings however, what

Editorial Assistant Silvia Forsman Sales Dian Mardianingsih Theresia Sompie Distribution Dian Mardianingsih

Spotted Pic

Graphics Frederick Ng

'Girls Just Wanna Have Fun' spotted by Karen in Kuta

I like to call the ‘elves’ come out and work their magic – resulting in the new airport and toll road going up extremely quickly - seemingly effortless and in a way, magical. This is our first Christmas and New Year’s at Bali Expat and we have some great reads just for you over the holiday season. Bruce Carpenter concludes his ‘Forbidden Love’ series with Part Four, and it’s one you shouldn’t miss... Adam Jacot de Boinod joins us with a breakdown of New Year’s traditions around the world and Seamus McElroy brings you a humorous, yet serious message about road safety in Bali. Karen Davis meets Tania Lonker – a free spirited expat pioneering the natural building movement on the island and much more. We will be back with our 15th issue on January 16th 2013, so until then, enjoy this issue and have a very merry Christmas and a happy New Year!

IN THIS 14TH ISSUE: Culture New Year Superstitions Around the World (3)

Finance & Admin Pertiwi Gianto Putri Lini Verawaty Contributors Adam Jacot de Boinod Bruce W. Carpenter Karen Davis Leif Hope Seamus McElroy Eamonn Sadler Editorial Enquiries

Expat Enterpreneur Bruce Granquist: Artist, Mapmaker, Writer, Bookseller (10)

Safety First Ten Traffice Rules for School Kids—2012 Style! (4)

Light Entertainment Stupid Game (12)

Beauty Rob Peetoom: A Little Snip of Heaven (5)

Must Travel in 2013 Kintamani: A Geological Wonder (13)

Art of the Indies Forbidden Love Part 4: Black Cats, Sex Toys, Fetishes (6)

Events (14) Classifieds (15)

Meet the Expat Tania Lonker (8)

Circulation Enquiries

Send in your Spotted Pics to!

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Bali Expat­­ ­◆ 19th December 2012 – 15th January 2013


New Year Superstitions Around the World BY ADAM JACOT DE BOINOD

Britain In Britain the first person who crosses the threshold on New Year’s Day foreshadows what will happen for the year. On the Isle of Man, qualtagh (Manx) was the first foot (the first person or creature one meets leaving the home) of great consequence to the superstitious, particularly women the first time they go out after lying-in. The qualtagh may also be the first person that enters a house on New Year's morning. In this case it is usual to place before the person the best fare the family can afford. It was considered fortunate if the qualtagh were a person (a man being preferred to a woman), of dark complexion, as meeting a person of light complexion at this time, especially if red headed, would be thought very unlucky. It is curious that the superstition in Scotland is the exact reverse of this —i.e., to meet a light complexioned person was fortunate. If the qualtagh were spaagagh (splayfooted), it would be considered very unfortunate.

20th or 21st. One of the features of this thirteen-day celebration is a ritual meal ornamented by seven items that begin with the letter S, including garlic and a wheat pudding; a bowl of goldfish is also on the table. On the last day, it is considered bad luck to stay indoors, so commonly they participate in special picnic events.

in the corners be trampled upon. In sweeping, there is a superstition that if you sweep the dirt out over the threshold, you will sweep one member of the family away.


Vietnam In Vietnam, the New Year is called Tet Nguyen Dan or Tet for short. It begins between January 21st and February 19th and they used to believe that the god travelled on the back of a fish called a carp, and today, they sometimes buy a live carp, and then let it go free in a river or pond. Tet is considered everyone’s birthday because everyone becomes one year older at this time.

Iran Iranians jump over fires as part of a purification ritual before the start of their New Year Nouruz, which takes place on the vernal equinox, which falls on April

In Greece, New Year's Day is also the Festival of Saint Basil. Saint Basil was famous for his kindness, and Greek children leave their shoes by the fire on New Year's Day with the hope that he will come and fill the shoes with gifts.

India In Kerala, southern India, mothers put food, flowers, and little gifts on a special tray. On New Year's morning, the children have to keep their eyes closed until they have been led to the tray. In central India, orange flags are flown from buildings on New Year's Day.

China The Chinese New Year is based on the lunar calendar that occurs sometime between mid-January and mid-February and lasts 15 days. They don’t wear black during this holiday. They believe that you should not sweep on New Year’s Day as you will be sweeping away all the wealth and good luck. The first person one meets and the first words heard are significant as to what the fortunes would be for the entire year. It is a lucky sign to see or hear songbirds or red-coloured birds or swallows. It is considered unlucky to greet anyone in their bedroom so that is why everyone, even the sick, should get dressed and sit in the living room. Do not use knives or scissors on New Year's Day as this may cut off fortune. Red clothing is preferred during this festive

occasion. Red is considered a bright, happy colour, sure to bring the wearer a sunny and bright future. It is believed that appearance and attitude during New Year's sets the tone for the rest of the year. Children and unmarried friends, as well as close relatives are given little red envelopes with crisp notes of money inserted for good fortune. The entire house should be cleaned before New Year's Day. On New Year's Eve, all cleaning equipment is put away. After New Year's Day, the floors may be swept. Beginning at the door, the dust and rubbish are swept to the middle of the living room, then placed in the corners and not taken or thrown out until the fifth day. At no time should the rubbish

Cambodia In Cambodia April 13th is New Year’s Eve Chaul Chnam Thmey (entering the New Year) and lasts three days. Cambodians clean their houses and home altars to welcome the New Angel, who is the guardian and protector for the New Year. Throwing water at each other is an important feature, a way to bless one another. This elicits laughter, a much soughtafter commodity for the future. Sometimes the water is coloured red, pink or yellow to symbolise a colourful future. ■

ADAM JACOT DE BOINOD Adam Jacot de Boinod is the author of The Meaning of Tingo (published by Penguin Books) and the iPhone App Tingo, a quiz on Interesting Words.


19th December 2012 – 15th January 2013 ◆ Bali Expat­­­



Never use your mirror when driving—remember it is not a beauty contest!


Having a 150 cc motor bike means you have to be in front to show who the boss of the road is. Getting there sometimes has a cost—waiting for the girl driver in front of you to move out of the way—but then there is always that great rear end view while you wait!


Best of all is talking not on your phone – but to your mate behind you— or better still—to mates driving either side of you—doing this AT SPEED separates the men from the boys—or real women from mere girls!


But the one that really takes the biscuit—if you are brave enough to try it—is to drive on the wrong side of the road swerving through the oncoming traffic—then listening for the crunch of metal as they run into each other! As so few of us have done this one yet, we are still trying to work out the points you deserve! Emergency Departments really love this one —it gives them something to talk about while setting the plaster casts on our arms and legs—well at least until coffee time! ■

Ten Traffic Rules for School Kids —2012 Style!




school, sevenyear-old kids in Bali learn about the rules of the road; like to walk on the left side of the road, to cross the road at zebra crossings, and for drivers to stop at traffic lights when they are red. Two years later, when they get their first brand new Honda 110 cc motor bike, they find out that what they learnt at school can be turned on its head. So here are the rules of the road for the current generation of nineyear-old kids:


Overtaking on the inside is great fun, older motor bikers hate it; they expect you to take them on the outside only—at least that’s what they learnt when they were at school (you too)! ASIA TRAVEL.COM (THE GANGSA)


Driving with due care and attention is for your grandmother.

Do you know?


of all traffic accidents recorded in Bali in 2010 involved motorcycles— Bali Traffic Police HQ

In 2010, of the more than 54,000 traffic casualties, 80 percent suffered from head injuries with 15.7 percent recorded as wearing no helmet at the time of their mishap.


of the drivers found at fault in accidents and 26% of their victims did not have driver’s licenses in 2011—Police HQ Bali

Officials have said traffic accidents in Bali currently kill more people than cancer, and traffic accidents are currently the third leading cause of death on the island. Traffic accidents were the eighth leading cause of death in Bali in 2006.

Most victims are between 16 and 30 years old—Bali Police Headquarters



Texting with both hands whilst driving hands-free is a tad dangerous but gets the old fogies real mad—‘cause they know they will never be able to do it! In March 2011, 248 people died on Bali’s roads, and 300 were injured. In April, 244 people were killed, and 280 injured. In May, 286 people were killed, and 360 were injured.


Taking your six week old baby sister with you on your motorbike as you do your morning run—exercise we call it—is great fun; you learn to balance things not only on your head but also in your lap; the best riders master doing this whilst also texting friends hands-free.


Thrill seekers drive as close as possible to the vehicle in front—best if it’s a truck, then you’re sure you can’t see what he sees; being able to overtake or even stop while tailgating him gets you stripes you can be proud of.


Latest statistics show that one in ten motorbike drivers don’t wear a helmet, for which the fine is half a million rupiah ($ 50). As the police never stop you if you don’t wear a helmet anyway, driver or passenger, why bother - this is money you can bank!

According to data from the Bali Police headquarters, traffic accidents in 2011 claimed the lives of more than 700 people excluding victims who died later in the hospital. HEINKELSCOOTER.BLOGSPOT.COM


Bali Expat­­ ­◆ 19th December 2012 – 15th January 2013


A Little Snip of Heaven BY SILVIA FORSMAN


ndonesia can be a difficult place to search for an address. It is no longer a surprise to me that 101 is next to 26 and there are three 52’s on a single road. I am not a resident of Bali and whilst looking for Rob Peetoom Hair Spa, a growing sense of frustration had emerged from my third time driving down Jl. Raya Petitenget. When I finally got to the Hair Spa I was admittedly a bit frazzled, but what a great place to claim sanctuary after a bit of a blunder than a place of pamper. I went to the reception where the immaculately presented Receptionist greeted me with warmth and my anxiety, frustration and stress started melting off from this moment forward. Rob Peetoom Hair Spa is a beautiful place filled with beautiful well-dressed people. The venue is intimate, open and stays very close to nature. A lily pond keeps the reception area company with stone steps leading the way to the salon. I had preconceived notions about what my experience would be like; I had high expectations which Rob Peetoom’s Hair Spa had surpassed.

rendered me unbended and my hair had regressed to its healthy form. After the 60 minute treatment I felt as if everything was going to be okay and the world was indeed happy and carefree, I was then ushered to a chair in the salon to have my haircut. By now I knew that I could relax and just enjoy myself as my hair was in the hands of people whose agenda was to make me look and feel my best as opposed to practicing the newest trend on my hair. I was surprised and delighted as Rob Peetoom came over to give me my hair cut. He asked me what I wanted and I said “whatever you think best” which he advised me to be careful saying that to hairdressers whom are scissor happy. A trim to cut off my damaged ends and a cut that flattered my face was suggested which is exactly what you want from a haircut. A razor was used to cut my hair which Rob prefers due to the fluidity that it gives and although razors have a mixed reputation it is much like any artist’s choice in tools to express

Rob Peetoom Hair Spa

I was scheduled Petitenget 16 Seminyak for a 60 minute Bali Indonesia treatment and a T: + 62 361 738363 haircut but found E: myself a bit nervous about getting my haircut. Everyone has had at least one hair disaster; mine ranging from orange hair, an afro from bonding and a boy’s haircut that reduced me to tears. Over the years my trust in hairdressers thinned and I became less adventurous with styles. Finding a good hairdresser can be difficult. You need to trust that their experience and skills will be compatible with your individual style and translate what you envision into a realitywithin reason of course. This I believe is not an easy task and like any form of art, cutting hair is not exempt from subjective opinions. Hair consultations are the first step of all treatments; a diagnosis of the condition of my hair and what products were to be used to remedy ailments. The 60 minute treatment includes a Hair Shot and Hair Mask, Head, Neck, Back and Hand Massage with Hot Stone Therapy and Foot Reflexology. My hair was dry and frizzy therefore the Extreme and Real Control range from Redken was used to address these issues. Rob Peetoom Hair Spa favours Redken due to its quality. I was guided through each step by a thorough explanation and a brief description. The massage and hot stone therapy

themselves; use the tools that you can control and master to achieve the results you are looking for. After a lovely chat and my hair had been cut, it was then styled perfectly for my face. I was grinning from ear to ear, pleased with a fantastic haircut and a treatment that made me feel wonderful. You would not be able to slap the silly smile off my face. A great haircut is more than just simply cutting hair. It can give you a bounce in your step, twinkle in your eye or even the confidence to rock that meeting with those hard to please clients you have next week. And better yet, even after I have washed my hair, I still am in love with my new hair cut! It isn’t only the great service and results that find people making their way to Rob Peetoom Hair Spa. This Hair Spa is the choice for even royalty; you walk out feeling confident, at ease and feeling beautiful after a blissful treatment amongst a tranquil backdrop with privacy. The design and location is unparalleled, which is why Rob has decided to introduce his Hair Spa in beautiful Bali rather than a more profitable Jakarta. This is my new slice of heaven on earth and I will surely be going back to take a break from reality and just feel good about myself. ■

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19th December 2012 – 15th January 2013 ◆ Bali Expat­­­

Art of the Indies


Black Cats, Sex Toys, Fetishes BY BRUCE W. CARPENTER


When Mead and Bateson departed for New Guinea, their Balinese secretary I Made Kaler commissioned a painting from one of Bali's most notable painters to commemorate the occasion

ne of the earliest books written about Bali is a “scientific” study by the Dutch medical doctor Julius Jacobs. Published in 1883, Eenigen tijd onder de Baliers (A Period of Time Among the Balinese) belongs to a peculiar genre of colonial documents that reveal the repressed sexuality of the inherently patriarchal Victorian Age. While erotic publications and images were available, let us not forget that even today pornography and sexual oriented material dominates the Internet, they were often crude and always illegal. Photos and graphic sexual descriptions disguised as scientific or academic studies, however, were perfectly acceptable as long as they remained within the hands of the intellectual elite who, of course, were in no way titillated by nude images of beautiful women and men. As a medical doctor Dr. Jacobs’ credentials to investigate and report on the female physique and Balinese sexual habits were impeccable. Not surprisingly an entire chapter, no doubt to increase interest and sales, of the book is dedicated to this subject. Jacobs’ accolades of the Balinese female body, especially his delectable descriptions of breasts caused Australian scholar, Adrian Vickers, to declare him the first man to discover them. The good doctor’s observations go quite beyond elegies of physical beauty. They also include vivid graphic descriptions on methods used by Balinese women to masturbate. The impression they give fits with the general colonial image of exotic native women as being naturally randy. In the case of the Balinese, the pressures created by these powerful, ever-driving libidos caused the regular use of a variety of phallic-like objects to fulfil their desires when they were unable to take advantage of their husbands. Necessity is the Mother of Invention! Like a racist novel or gross porno film the favourite substitute is the ubiquitous banana. Of course, the doctor gives little indication of his methodology or the names of his informants, thus one must simply accept that a white male doctor who spoke no Balinese and was visiting only a short while was able to penetrate the innermost secrets of Balinese women who gave him the long and the short of popular dildos without

any inhibition. How astonishing! Subsequent studies, of course, have in no way supported the doctor’s observations thus we must either conclude that Balinese women either changed profoundly after his visit or these stories were the creations of a frustrated male hoping to add some sensational material to an otherwise dry document. While there is a tendency to view scholars with their goat hair socks, baggy khaki cloths and unappealing monstrous eyeglasses as rather sexless beings, in truth these outfits offer enough camouflage to raging hormones and kinky ways. Margaret Mead and Gregory Bateson, probably the most internationally famous academics to live and work on the island, are an excellent example of this phenomenon. They would first meet each other in New Guinea in the 1930s

Margaret Mead

"NECESSITY IS THE MOTHER OF INVENTION! LIKE A RACIST NOVEL OR GROSS PORNO FILM THE FAVOURITE SUBSTITUTE IS THE UBIQUITOUS BANANA. " where Mead was studying the tribal people with her then second husband, New Zealander Reo Fortune. Mead who had achieved fame after the publication of her game changing book Coming of Age in Samoa (1928), which marked the defeat of those who argued that human behaviour was pre-determined by genetics (naturally white people had the best genes). The connection of Mead, Fortune and Bateson in the jungles soon turned into more than a meeting of minds and by most reports this trio of liberal thinkers became a ménage à trois. Mead’s increasing preference for Bateson led to jealousy and anger. The break with Fortune was nasty and quickly followed

Gusti Nyoman Lempad

by remarriage to Bateson in 1936. Soon afterwards they left to Bali to work in the mountain village of Bayung Gede. Rumour has it that both Mead and Bateson were switch hitters. Indeed Mead’s own daughter would write that her relationship with fellow anthropologist Rhoda Metraux was also romantic. Mead was also one of the founders of the notorious Black Cat Club, an association where girls could reputedly hook up with girls. Another sexual ambiguous couple—Canadian musician Colin McPhee and his wife Jane Belo— were close friends of Bateson and Mead in Bali. McPhee, who like several other closet queens in the presence of Walter Spies, came out of the closet. Mead would function as Belo’s guide and inspiration at a delicate moment. She would introduce Belo to academia and

continue to work together for years. Mead even wrote the introduction to Belo’s Trance in Bali (1960). While there is no direct evidence it is also possible that she embraced Belo, who was still recovering from her husband’s newly announced sexual bias, in the same way she did Rhoda. Even a threesome with Bateson is not unthinkable. While Mead would continue on to become an imposing intellectual giant, her work in Bali is rarely mentioned probably because her proposal that the Balinese showed schizophrenic tendencies, based on comparing the contorted positions of Balinese dance and those of mental patients, found few supporters. With a distinct taste for the kinky and forbidden, Bateson and Mead also commission numerous works of art from various Balinese painters. Of special note were a series of explicit homo-erotic paintings by Gusti Nyoman Lempad, which were so controversial that they have only begun being exposed in recent years. I know of them because they were offered to me as Lempad drawings over 20 years ago. Like others I turned them down because I had no idea of who would buy them since the subjects mostly focused on often brutal if not sadistic sex with underaged boys. The big question is perhaps not so much what these say about the Balinese, but rather about the persons who ordered them? Too bad there isn’t any YouTube recording of what instructions they gave to Lempad. Erotic art and homosexuality are by no means a western import. The Balinese have been engaged in both practices for centuries. Another great master was Ida Bagus Nyoman Rai of Sanur who, under the influence of Theo Meier and later the penis-obsessed Donald Friend, created astonishing works of wedding processions where the groom’s vital organ is used to hang gongs. Ironically Rai, who unlike Lempad, never married, probably died a virgin. The history of Forbidden Love in Bali has not yet ended and although this series has reached its end, more tales remain to be made and told. ■

BRUCE W. CARPENTER Author and noted Indonesian art expert, Bruce W. Carpenter has authored and coauthored more than 16 books and scores of articles on the art, culture and history of Indonesia. His most recent was Antique Javanese Furniture and Folk Art.

Bali Expat­­ ­◆ 19th December 2012 – 15th January 2013



19th December 2012 – 15th January 2013 ◆ Bali Expat­­­

Meet the Expat (From Left to Right) Tania,Elizabeth,Jody,Kaya and Lily Tania and Lempot's Wedding


the fields. In Indonesia we spent weekends in Puncak playing in clean flowing rivers and riding horseback. Thanks to all those childhood experiences I came to love nature and down to earth things.

The net covering is a perfect demonstration of where there’s a will there’s a way. After a year the vegetation had grown and the birds are safe in their home. This small sanctuary is worth visiting and needs the public’s support.

We just visited the bird sanctuary here in Candidasa. It’s amazing how the massive walls simulate nature. How did that come about? My partner Tasha Zahara and I heard that a man in Candidasa had a dream of making an aviary and wanted to build natural. So TnT Earthbuilders as usual, ready for action were ready to help fulfill his dream. The simple wall became a long story and many walls. All the kids in the village helped collect glass bottles and we incorporated them in the wall. We had so much fun dancing in the mud with the Balinese women and children, teaching an age old technique. With the help of

How did you come to do the oven for Ibu Robin of Bumi Sehat? Oh Robin! You know when you meet an angel… After having my son with a local “midwife” I knew there had to be a gentler, sweeter experience to birthing my second child, Lily. Through friends I heard of Robin. The day I rocked up in Robin’s kitchen I was heavily pregnant. Her husband had just said it would be great to know someone with accommodations on the beach that needed a midwife so they could have a small holiday. She helped homebirth our two daughters, Lily and Kaya. We have been family ever since. Now, years later I have become an earthen builder and this is the Earth

Tania Lonker A down-to-earth leader in the natural building and sustainable living movement of Bali BY KAREN DAVIS

How did Lumbung Damuh, your natural homestay, come into being? I returned to Indonesia in 1998 and worked for a big company in Kuta. I speak six languages so I was brought up to their resort here to communicate with international visitors. I found myself in a small village and it didn’t take long for love and life to unfold. I met Lempot and we hung out on his family land on the beach. We started a group to clean up the natural beauty ravaged by humans for gain. Some of the land was the communal dump! Lempot’s brother suggested we do something to preserve the beauty we were restoring and we came up with the concept of natural simple luxury huts. We cleaned up a dumpsite and put up paradise! We have all seen the demise of natural beauty all over the world; it’s time to resurrect what has been destroyed and I wanted to show it can be done. We built two small

Temple at Lumbung Damuh

lumbungs in 1999 and had our first official guests in 2000. A year later we built our present home, an oversized lumbung, and over five more years, bungalows, all in the old style. You have managed to create a timeless world at Lumbung Damuh. I lose track of time and stress which is probably why I usually stay longer than planned. How do your guests find it? It is a home to so many people from all over the world. Our guests usually return because they become part of a community. We have music at night and guests become part of it, singing and playing instruments. Children and adults are very creative here and share their talents. We have big family meals with the guests and make pizza in our cob oven. All our bread is made here. Our focus is to think globally but support locally, so what we don’t grow we buy locally in season.

Tell me about your marriage and your family. Well, in life some things just happen…You know, that magical, mystical feeling life has when you are in the flow and being spontaneous. Lempot and I spent every moment together. We got married in his parents’ compound and now we have three beautiful children and a large extended family as my family is here in Indonesia also. So you are third generation Expat? Yes, my grandfather was born in Padang. My father was born in Java. I was born in Hong Kong but we moved to Jakarta when I was six months old. I went to Jakarta International School and at ten we moved to Singapore where I went to Tanglin Prep and United World College. For summers we would fly to Europe and travel — those were great times. We camped in the Swiss mountains and played in

Mama oven that stands for all the strength and fire and warmth of all mothers.

Tania and Robin Lim

Elizabeth we decorated the walls with forests, ricefields, animals and flowers. There are places for the birds to nest; little bird houses. We then devised a way to create a covering with fish nets so the birds may fly high and free. It was a challenge since the dimensions are so sporadic. We used a lot of mathematics and hand sewing.

What got you inspired to be an earthen builder? I had always wanted to build an earth oven and it took many years of longing and learning all aspects of earth building, homesteading and other alternative, eco-friendly ways of living until I met my great friend, Tasha. She came to stay at Lumbung Damuh with her daughter, Zahara. When I shared my ideas and knowledge with her she said, “Let’s do it!” Our crazy energy started TnT Earthbuilders and we haven’t stopped since. We have made eight ovens together and more on our own in faraway places all over the world. This is just the beginning of the earth mud mama’s adventures! ■

KAREN DAVIS Chilean born American,Karen Davies is a journalist,artist and art therapist. Formerly a NYC fashion designer,she has been coming to Bali since 1979 and now resides here.

Bali Expat­­ ­◆ 19th December 2012 – 15th January 2013



19th December 2012 – 15th January 2013 ◆ Bali Expat­­­

Expat Enterpreneur





or half a decade Bruce Granquist travelled the hills, valleys and back roads of Bali on an old Honda 200cc making sketches, jotting down names and correcting and upgrading photocopies of old topographic charts made by the Dutch in 1928. Man and machine were embarked on an absorbing and meandering mapping project, covering all of the island’s road systems, from the volcanic mountains and deep river valleys in the centre to the gentle alluvial plains in the South. Working in his spare time in between other projects, his task was made all the more difficult because this was before there was Google Earth, access to detailed charts or any other reliable base maps. The arduous labour of love, rendered entirely in watercolour, was finally completed and selfpublished in the USA in 1999, the first large format detailed twodimensional four-colour pictorial topographic map of Bali, the best obtainable representation of Bali’s marvellous terrain features. Exploring Bali’s hinterlands was in Bruce’s DNA. Born in a small

town called Waukegan close to Chicago in 1958, he was drawing before he could walk. Since 1978, Bruce has worked as a freelancer with publishers on a project-by-project basis. At last count, he has contributed art, line drawings, maps and illustrations in a total of 24 books. Bruce has also developed a small book distribution company based in Bali. Bruce, did you study art? I studied art at three different colleges, finally earning an undergraduate degree after several unsteady and circuitous years. My father was afraid I would not be able to support myself exclusively as an artist, so following his wishes I got a general education with a major in art. As it turned out, he could never know at the time how diverse my work would become and how far I would travel in my life. Why did you settle down in Bali? I studied the Borobudur in college, so a quest to see that incredible monument was the reason for visiting Indonesia for the first time in 1986. I always assumed that I would settle in nearby Jogjakarta,

but as it turned out, while in Ubud one night I saw a Baris warrior dance in the rain. The effect of that performance was so powerful that I totally changed my plans, left Java and moved straight to Bali.

illustrations. The illustrations were easy, but the maps were by far the most difficult part of the project.

What are the best things about living here?

Most of my illustrations are about natural history and architecture. I specialize in mapmaking, though I have not studied cartography formally. My grandfather worked for Rand McNally. When I was a boy, I marvelled at the atlases that he’d bring home. But maps are challenging - I put prodigious effort into learning how to draw

I love the feeling that the day to day activities of life run smoothly, following well established patterns, while at the same time there is a feeling that everything is about to go completely out of control. This teetering balance is of constant fascination to me and has inspired countless paintings and drawings.

What kind of illustrations do you do?

What was the first book you worked on? A guidebook to Thailand in the early 1990s in which I contributed city maps and architectural illustrations. It was quite a challenge. I had stretched the truth a bit with my employer and actually had no experience whatsoever doing these types of

Does bookselling have a bright future in Bali? The book business has become very bewildering and complex. This is especially the case now with the rise of e-books. Even experienced and venerable booksellers are scratching their heads trying to predict what will happen in the book business in the future. What is your latest project? I just self published an art book called Inventing Art: The Paintings of Batuan. It took three and a half years to research, write, design and print this book, the most complex yet engaging project I’ve ever done. It has recently arrived in Bali from my printers in Singapore, and I’m just now beginning to promote and distribute it throughout the world.

Is it easy making a living from art? I’m involved in everything related to books and publishing. I consider myself mainly an illustrator, but I also create and publish maps, design and publish books, research and write articles, import books and distribute them. My combination house/ studio/storeroom is crammed with stacks of books, charts, and rolled up paintings and illustrations. Something in print is always within reach!

usually selling them on a consignment basis. If they don't sell after a few months I either look for a better venue or sell them at a discounted price.

What’s the book about?

them well. Now maps have become the most satisfying type of work I do. With its amazing landforms, mapping Bali was a cartographer’s dream. As a book agent, how many publishers do you represent? I have two main suppliers, one in Singapore and one in London. Between them I have access to dozens of publishers and thousands of books. I often go to Singapore on book buying trips. I purchase stock there, ship the books by boat to Jakarta and then take them overland to Bali. I bring the books to about 10 independent retail bookstores around Bali,

The painting tradition of a small village just south of Ubud, which basically started in the 1930's and is still going strong today. The book’s purpose is to demystify the 'foreign" feeling of these paintings, to make them more accessible for people from outside Bali to understand. Though Batuan paintings are often filled with mysterious imagery, there are many aspects in them that are easy to understand and appreciate. The book tries to remove the “us and them” aspect of these wonderful paintings and present them simply as good art, able to be appreciated by anyone with a patient and sensitive eye. ■

Bruce Granquist may contacted by e-mail:


Bali Expat­­ ­◆ 19th December 2012 – 15th January 2013


I BALI Have you ever sat on the sands of Kuta, watching the surf and the sun setting, and feeling that something is amiss? Well, probably it’s because you don’t have a cold, opened, bottle of Bintang in your hand. It’s okay, many of us have felt the same. And many of us, when we were back home in the western hemisphere or anywhere else, felt that tingling sensation of thirst for the taste of Bintang rolling on your tongue with the soft sand cooling your naked feet. You are not alone. We have been here in Bali long enough to see that Bali and Bintang are inseparable. The first time we land in Bali, the first time we feel the heat of the sun scorching our skin, and the first time a mouthful of Bintang soothed that heat. It’s a combination of amazing things that is followed by another and another and before we know it, we fell in love with the island and its favourite beer. We have first hand experience of the legendary relationship between Bali and Bintang. That is the core of I*Bali campaign. The campaign is a tribute from Bintang to Bali. An acknowledgement of the island’s importance, as one of the most beautiful destinations in Indonesia. Bali is the one of the portals where our guests from around the world meet the wonderfulness of Indonesia for the first time, and also, taste the delights that is Bir Bintang. I*Bali is Bintang sharing the beauty, mystery, art, culture and the people of Bali to the world. It’s an honest promotion from of one Bali’s devoted fans. It’s saying, “Come to Bali, embrace the atmosphere, have a Bintang and have a great time.” And you know, Bintang is right. Come to Bali, come to Indonesia. Amazing and wonderful things await you, especially, Indonesia’s favourite beer: Bir Bintang. ■


19th December 2012 – 15th January 2013 ◆ Bali Expat­­­

Light Entertainment

To find out more about live stand-up comedy in Indonesia please e-mail text or call 0821 1194 3084 or register at


I could never work out what all the fuss was about. How hard can it be to whack a little white ball with a stick? I wanted to stride out onto the golf course wearing a pair of silly trousers and get stuck in immediately, but my employers at the time insisted I take some lessons first at their expense. In retrospect, I guess they wanted to avoid me embarrassing them in front of senior expats from other companies who actually knew what they were doing and had some respect for the game. Very wise as it turned out. I yawned while Kevin the “golf pro” explained the different clubs and what they are for. I admired the scenery while he showed me the special grip I was to use, and I smiled as he wiggled his ass while demonstrating how to stand looking like an idiot while “addressing” the ball. I’d already addressed it in my

mind – into outer space with a first class stamp. After an eternity of blah blah blah he finally held up a seven iron and asked me if I wanted to “have a go”. I grabbed the stick and stepped towards the little green mat to whack the ball, but Kevin was still in the way. He wanted to go through the “check list”, but he could see from my blank stare that I didn’t have a clue what he was talking about. Patiently, he went through it all again: feet comfortably apart, head down, knees bent, back straight (with ass sticking out, he he he), correct grip, left arm and club in a straight line from the shoulder, grip firmly with top two fingers of left hand etc., etc., etc. Far too much to remember, I thought, and frankly Kevin was a bit too close behind me for comfort by this point, so I asked

him impatiently if I could just give it a go and see what happened. Kevin stepped back with hands raised, palms towards me and head tilted downwards, the classic “OK smart ass, up to you” gesture. I thanked him sarcastically and wound back the bat, all set to send the little white sucker into orbit. After completing a 360 degree pirouette I looked down the driving range to see where the ball had gone. It hadn’t gone anywhere of course. It was still there on the little rubber tee in front of me. I looked at Kevin, redfaced, but he was absent-mindedly sorting his tees. I set up again, begrudgingly taking some of Kevin’s advice, and swung at the ball again. It bobbled off the tee a few feet and fell off the edge of the platform onto the grass. I looked around. Nobody was taking any notice.

I grabbed another ball and placed it on the tee, stepped back and did my level best to stand something like the way Kevin had shown me. I wound back my arms again and swung with all my might. There was an almighty “thwack” and then a “clang” as the ball hit the roof above me and then a strange “pingy” sound as it bounced violently on the concrete just in front of me and scared me half to death. I looked at Kevin again but apparently he now had something far more interesting than me under his finger nail. He’d seen a thousand like me before.

finally made contact with my little white nemesis, and it went sailing roughly in the direction of the flags down the range. If you want to know what hapened next, read the previous two paragraphs 50 times.

This went on for some time before Kevin finally came over and stood behind me, grabbing each relevant part of my body and patiently pushing or pulling it into something like the right position. After many more unsuccessful attempts, I

To read more by Eamonn Sadler, go to

I now have a healthy respect for the game of golf, and I can say that after those ten initial lessons and 15 years of playing the game, I am still absolutely useless at it. Insert your favourite golf joke here. ■

Can you name these two famous people? >>> SMS your answer followed by "Bali" to:

081 199 9603 <<< Last issue photo comp was won by Dave P. from Sanur. Answer: President Clinton and President Kennedy.

President Clinton

President Kennedy

Across 1. District for unconventional people —former European kingdom (7) 8. Genuine (7) 9. Passage (7) 10. Hermit (7) 11. Start - fight (3,2) 13. A nobody (9) 15. Ballet leap (9) 18. Creek (5) 21. Letter (7) 22. Compactness - stupidity (7) 23. Encourage - upgrade (7) 24. Pleasure (possibly Turkish?) (7)

Down 1. Posts for securing ship's cables (5) 2. Vital organ—centre—courage (5) 3. Delusion—wrong idea (13) 4. Abaft (6) 5. Global—game between countries (13) 6. Zodiac sign (6) 7. Unorthodoxy—apostasy (6) 12. Paradise—ex-Prime Minister (4) 14. Honest—expression of agreement (4) 15. Immune—absolve (6) 16. Clothes maker (6) 17. Took notice (6) 19. Prone—mendacity (5) 20. Rendezvous—assignation (5) (Answers in the next edition!)

*Answers for Edition 13 ACROSS: 1. Mitigate 5. Scam 9. Panda 10. Raiment 11. Free of charge 13. Oclock 14. Snivel 17. Authenticity 20. Dear sir 21. Incur 22. Rung 23. Personal DOWN: 1. Mope 2. Tendril 3. Grated cheese 4. Tariff 6. Clear 7. Motherly 8. Fish and chips 12. Colander 15. Vatican 16. Starve 18. Train 19. Oral

THE TRAVEL QUIZ Scan the barcode and answer the 10 questions correctly for a chance to win a Rp.300,000 voucher from St. Lukas Silver Jewellery! Closing date January 8th, 2013. NEW CLOTHING LINE ESPECIALLY FOR LADIES AVAILABLE AT RUMBLE GIRL. JL. RAYA BATUBULAN (NEXT TO HARDY'S BATUBULAN), BALI


Bali Expat­­ ­◆ 19th December 2012 – 15th January 2013

Must Travel in 2013






could possibly prepare one for this. As we pulled slowly up over a rise, an other worldly sight opened up before us. From a lookout ledge, the whole 11-km-wide expanse of a lake-filled caldera with a spectacular smoking volcano as the centrepiece lay before us. This sudden and impeded panorama cannot fail to make an indelible impression on any visitor. We had set out earlier that morning, taking the narrow country road through Tampaksiring, one of many roads leading north to Kintamani, climbing steadily for more than 40 km to reach the outer rim of the sacred Mount Batur and its crescent-shaped lake. We parked on the other side of the road in Penelokan (meaning “Place to look”) and walked over to the famous viewpoint, easily on par with Indonesia’s worldrenowned Bromo and Kelimutu volcanoes. An all-important water catchment for south central Bali's agricultural wealth, lying at 1,031 metres above sea level and seven and a half km long, this is the largest of the island’s four lakes. The western side of the peak is barren rock with uneven rivers of lava blackening the slope while the eastern side is mostly forested. Eight ancient aboriginal Bali Aga villages huddle along its shores. Since the early 1970s when I first visited, Penelokan has had a bad reputation for pushy souvenir peddlers and as soon as we stepped out from the car, the sellers were upon us. I have always found the way to dodge and

parry the sellers is to politely but resolutely shake your head and express no interest in their wares. Eventually, they sensed my disinterest. The view of lake and mountain is more than worth a bit of unsolicited attention. This geologic spectacle has recently been in the news after UNESCO added the Batur region to its network of Global Geoparks, the first in Indonesia and only the second in all of Southeast Asia. A “geopark” is defined by UNESCO as “a unified area with geological heritage of international significance” which makes the Batur caldera a world-class destination and study area. Hopefully, the added notoriety will bring more attention and eventual prosperity to the farmers of the region who are only able to earn cash income to pay utility bills, school fees and school uniforms from their meagre seasonal crops of corn, sweet potato, cassava, cabbages, peanuts, coffee, and tobacco - the most important sources of revenue for this remote district. From Penelokan, we rode further north through Kintamani, driving along what is actually the outer wall of an immense crater that encloses the smaller Batur crater —a crater inside of a crater. This high cool stretch of road with its feathery cemara trees and average altitude of 1,300 metres offered a welcome contrast from the crowded lookout.

Bali’s Highest Temple Twisting up through a mountain pass, the wild and rugged beauty of the immense caldera always on our right, we could glimpse a telecommunications tower soaring up in the mists on top of a mountain. On a steep incline, where the road bends sharply to the west, a wide staircase climbed up a hillside. Dramatically situated on the crater’s outer edge, this remote temple is the highest (1,745 metres) and one of the oldest on the island. High places on Bali are often considered sacred— where the gods dwell. This royal pura was the highest structure on Bali until the Perumtel TV broadcasting station was built on the opposite ridge. Below the temple is Sukawana, the highest village on Bali. Archaeological evidence indicates the existence of a sanctuary on this spot as early as 1,500 B.C., 2,000 years before the arrival of Hinduism. Penulisan means "Place of Writing,” an allusion to a sacred place where ancient records were stored. The site is believed to have been the mountain sanctuary of the kings of the Pejeng Dynasty. The pyramidal form of the complex, the site's five rising terraces, and its large megalithic stones are all typical of the arrangement of archaic Indonesian mountain sanctuaries. We walked through a high split gate then began ascending the 300 steps leading up to the lonely temple at the very top where extreme antiquity co-exists beside wired modernity. We walked unnoticed by the juru kunci (temple guardian) who was engrossed in watching TV in a pavilion adjacent to the entrance of the temple’s highest courtyard. Inside, under austere open pavilions (bale), were row upon

row of finely wrought statues, fragments of sculptures, Hindu fertility symbols, and prehistoric divinities dating as far back as the 9th century. The delicate features and facial expressions on the weathered portrait statues – open eyed scrutiny, traces of a smile, haughtiness, deep pensive meditation, even light disdain - could still be made out, their unseeing eyes staring out of a world that existed more than 1,000 years ago. Not visited by a European until 1885, for years outsiders were forcibly prevented from entering this temple by armed natives. The renowned archaeologist Nieuwenkamp tried to visit Penulisan in 1904, but was warned against it by Dutch authorities. It wasn't until 1948 that the ruler of Bangli allowed the Netherlands Indies Archaeological Service to carry out some technical renovations. Since then, the site has been in an almost continual state of restoration. Because of the high, mist-laden elevation, the statuary and inscriptions are in a pretty decrepit and illegible state. Pura Penulisan is very little visited by either domestic or foreign tourists. During the pura’s huge anniversary odalan celebrations, hundreds of worshippers crowd up and down the hillside bearing offerings. Except for these periodic festivities, even in the late morning the temple grounds were quiet and serene and the views superb. Surrounded by mountains, caressed by a cooling breeze, on a clear day from the highest terrace you can see half the island through the trees—all the way to the Indian Ocean in the south and Singaraja and the gleaming Java Sea to the north. ■


Arts & Exhibition

THE UNSEEN THINGS a solo exhibition by Suklu at Komaneka Fine Art Gallery Sun, 09 Dec 2012–Wed, 09 Jan 2013 Monkey Forest Road, Ubud Gianyar Bali 80571 The exhibition will be held from: 9 December 2012–9 January 2013. The gallery open every day 8 am–8 pm The exhibition opening starts with performing art by Agung Gunawan Info: (+62) 361 976 090 E-mail:  Web: 

New Years

19th December 2012 – 15th January 2013 ◆ Bali Expat­­­

NEW YEAR IN THE SKY @ SAKALA BALI Monday, 31 December 2012 Jl. Pratama 88, Tjg. Benoa, Nusa Dua

Get in the festive mood for Christmas Day Lunch and Christmas Dinner and celebrate in style at one of Bali's Finest Restaurants.

For the final, and most awaited event of the year, SAKALA is going back to its fine-dining persona with a 9-course Epicurean creation, served under the stars on the SAKALA Sky Deck.

Indulge yourself, friends and family to a memorable Christmas, set amid the gracious courtyard with stunning rice fields views. The perfect decor for a culinary experience to remember...

Fireworks and lantern ceremony will kick off 2013 with a bang!

Reservations absolute essential please call (+62) 361 731 175 / 749 2796

Menu: Oscietra Caviar experience served with Alaskan scallops, King crab and Tsarskaya oyster *** Coral Trout ceviche seasoned with exotic fruits, fresh herbs, green lemon and virgin olive oil *** River Lobster tortellini, light creamy bisque, Balinese vanilla and fresh Tarragon *** Foie Gras ‘Domaine du Périé’ from France prepared 3 ways Handmade brioche *** Mangosteen and Premium Calvados *** Ocean consommé scented with shaved black Truffle, Chilian Sea Bass, green asparagus and Lima bean *** Slow cooked ‘Mayura’ Wagyu Beef Tenderloin MB 9 served with ‘pomme de terre Anna’, young carrots, roasted mushrooms and Tawny Port wine sauce *** AOC Beaufort cheese, Jamon Iberico Capa Negra and garden salad with nuts *** Valhrona chocolate surprise *** Sweet Mignardises New Year menu is available at Rp. 1,750,000 ++ and Rp. 3,000,000 ++ with wine pairing.

BLACK AND WHITE PARTY: NEW YEARS EVE 2012 Monday, 31 December 2012 Jl. Double Six, Blue Ocean Boulevard, Bali 80361 

AUD LANG SYNE @KLAPA NEW KUTA BEACH Monday, 31 December 2012 Jl. New Kuta Beach, Pecatu Indah Resort Fireworks—Fire Dance—DJ Violitst—Jazz—Accoustic—Comedian Mcs Dinner Package Opening Act : James Hendrik Soundrack office: Anjaz & Monty For more info: (+62) 361 8484 581 Web:

Welcome in 2013 with a bang at Cocoon Beach Club’s NYE Black and White Party

Dress code: black and white: no singlets, shorts or flip flops or alcohol branded attire for more info and book e-mail:


POTATO HEAD BEACH CLUB’S FESTIVE SEASON EVENTS: M.I.A LIVE December 29, 2012: Acclaimed beachside bar and restaurant POTATO HEAD BEACH CLUB is celebrating its 2nd anniversary with a live spectacular from the charismatic and unique renowned UK artist M.I.A.

CHRISTMAS EVE DINNER @ KOMANEKA RESORT BALI Monday, 24 December 2012 Jalan Monkey Forest, Ubud 80571 Feel the warmth of  Christmas in the heart of  Ubud at KOMANEKA Resort. Share the joy and celebration in simple yet an elegant Christmas with the best and heavenly selected cuisine from our local Chef Bagi’s kitchen  that will complete the joyful night. Your evening will start with cocktails at 19:00hrs then followed by Dinner and accompanied by Violin Acoustic along the dinner. Lets celebrate this festive moment in togetherness and share your best evening with us at your Bali home. This exceptional dinner is only at US$55++ per pax, and as we only provide for limited space hence advance reservation is highly recommended. Phone: (+62) 361 976 090 E-mail:  Web: 

Music & Entertainment

The boundary busting, chart-topping performer is bringing her powerful mélange of punk, hip hop, techno and bhangra bass to Indonesia for one unforgettable live show at Bali’s premier party palace. NEW YEARS EVE 2012: Join us on New Years Eve for a spectacular celebration to finish off a fabulous year in the Island of the Gods! Staying true to Potato Head family tradition, on New Years Eve we hand over the spotlight to our own world class international DJs – Lady Flic (NZ), Dipha (ID), Yuki (JP), Stuart Mac (UK), Eric Entrena (SP), LBS (USA) and Malik (USA) will be cranking the heaviest party tunes from 2012 and beyond, into the early hours of 2013. Spirits will be high and the sky will be alight with brilliant colours as we bring in the New Year in magical Potato Head style.

"American Idol" alum, Adam Lambert has accrued numerous awards and nominations including a Grammy nomination for Best Male Pop Vocal in 2011. His latest album Trespassing (2012) entered at number one on the Billboard 200 album chart.

M.I.A X POTATO HEAD BEACH CLUB Saturday, 29 December 2012 Jl. Petitenget Seminyak 80361 For the first time ever in South East Asia, M.I.A will be performing live onstage. With her brand of energetic and upbeat-based music; that recalls the spirit of hiphop, grime, techno and beyond.

This includes: 7 nights accommodation at the beautiful Puri Sunia, Ubud, 5 Lunches, 4 Dinners, Special dance and music performance at village involving over 50 performers, VIP Visitor arrival service, Pick from the airport on arrival and delivery back to the airport for departure, Specially decorated Sarongs for the tour and to keep as a souvenir All ground transport whilst on the tour E book with selection of the best of everyones images, Professional photographers and guides fees. Does not Include: Alcohol, Tips, 30 day Visa or departure tax, International airfares. Please contact me via e-mail: International: (+62) 811 133 1255 Indonesia (local): 0811 133 1255

Get them online from tickets@ptthead. com, or buy directly from Potato Head Beach Club! If you also wish to attend our New Years Eve celebration, we have a special joint promotion for M.I.A & N.Y.E tickets for IDR.1,400,000.

Seminar & Workshop

ADAM LAMBERT - LIVE IN BALI Monday, 31 December 2012 The Grand Ballroom, Mulia Resort, Jl. Raya Nusa Dua Selatan, Kawasan Sawangan Nusa Dua 80363

Special rate for partners USD$ 2875 (based on double occupancy)

Tickets Price: IDR.800,000 (pre sale) IDR.1,000,000 (at the door)

**NEW YEARS EVE 2012: Join us on New Years Eve for a spectacular celebration to finish off a fabulous year in the Island of the Gods!

BOOK NOW! Phone: (+62) 361 301 7777 E-mail:

CELEBRATE CHRISTMAS IN WARISAN STYLE Tuesday, 25 December 2012 Jl. Raya Kerobokan No. 38, Br Taman, Kuta, Bali, Indonesia 

Therefore, if you wish to sign up please put down a $ 500 deposit either via paypal or via direct credit to my bank account. Please email me at for those details (Accounts in NZD, AUD, IDR, USD). Pricing for the tour is as follows: UDS$ 3335 based on double occupancy. USD$ 3860 based on single occupancy.

Tickets are available for dinner, VIP seating with full bottle service or general admission party tickets. With a lineup of 6 dj’s, our troupe of fire dancers, acrobats and stunning stilt walkers as well as our spectacular pyrotechnics show at the stroke of midnight this promises to be a magical end to 2012.

experience places in Bali that are very special (just for our group). This is a workshop not to be missed. We expect this workshop to fill up very quickly especially since it is planned around the most special time of the year in Bali — Nyepi.

BALI TOURS (BALI PHOTO WORKSHOP) — NYEPI BY DAVID METCALF Fri, 08 Mar 2013 - Fri, 15 Mar 2013 Come and join New Zealand Travel Photographer of the Year, Mike Langford and New Zealand Professional Photographer of the Year, Jackie Ranken on a magical workshop in Bali in March 2013. “This is a photography workshop not just a tour. We share our knowledge to photographers of all levels. Under our watchful guidance you will learn new skills and techniques that will stay with you for the rest of your photographic life.” said Jackie. Nyepi (the day of silence) is the most important day and special day on the Balinese calendar. Photographically speaking, it’s the days immediately before and after this day that are so visually exciting. This is a careful crafted photography workshop, which takes you inside the “real Bali” and has been designed to allow you to see and

BALI PHOTO TOUR — GALUNGAN Tue, 26 Mar 2013 - Mon, 01 Apr 2013 Tutors: Mark Rayner and David Metcalf. This is a wonderful opportunity to explore the wonder and magic of the beautiful island of Bali over the time of Galungan a very special time on the Balinese calendar. The seven nights, six -day photo tour will cover some of the most spectacular and interesting places in Bali including colourful ceremonies, magnificent volcanoes, rice paddies, ancient temples, village life, market scenes and a great opportunity to learn about the fascinating Balinese culture. One of the highlights of this workshop will be the opportunity to photograph the Galungan Festival on March 27. But Galungan is not all you will experience You will be escorted to many of Bali’s wonders at the best time of the day to capture the rich tropical light, and share these wonders with fellow photographers, sharing your passion; photography. The workshop will be based in Ubud, the cultural heart of Bali, under the guidance of Kiwi and local resident Dave Metcalf who has travelled all over Bali Searching out the best times and places to photograph and capture the true essence of this tropical paradise. In fact, Bali must surely be one of the most fascinating places in the world to photograph. Please contact Dave for more info: E-mail:


Bali Expat­­ ­◆ 19th December 2012 – 15th January 2013

Classifieds are still FREE! Send in your classifieds to: Next issue deadline: 9th January, 2013

Have something to sell? Looking for something to buy? Looking for staff? Selling property? Or need a place to live? Why not place your classified ad with Bali Expat! Your classified will be placed once for 2 weeks online and once in our printed version which has a circulation of 12,500 copies bi weekly. Classifieds: free of charge (50 words max) Send in your classifieds to:

PROPERTY 2 storey house furnished, 2 bedrooms w/ ensuite bathrooms, kitchen set, s.pool, jacuzzi, Wi-Fi, 2AC, w.heater, TVcable, behind ultimo restaurant, close restaurants Oberoi, villa areas,daily/ weekly/monthly or short term only.0821 1495 4431 / LOMBOK: LUXURY BEACHFRONT VILLA FOR HOLIDAY RENTAL. 3 SUITES EACH WITH K.S BED, SPA BATH, TROPICAL SHOWER. WI FI, CABLE TELEVISION. ENGLISH SPEAKING STAFF. PROMO RATES AVAILABLE. Contact: +6281 246 400 246. Web: www.vervevillaslombok. com Available luxury villa for christmas & New year 3 & 4 bedroom in Seminyak & canggu , call 0361 2020402 or email: Seminyak,1br+/1ba,kitchen.2student ok,aircon,hot water,tv,dvd, beach/surf close,furnished, 35mil rp a year, 20mil rp 6 month. E-mail: Contact: 081246514976 For Rent: Beautiful 3-bedroom villa in Ubud. Contact David Metcalf 08111 331 255 or e-mail: Close to Seminyak. From December 15th, 2012 to January 13th, 2013 negotiable. Rp 10 MILLIONS, Great Deal! Shared Swimming Pool & Garden, WiFi Internet Connection & Indovision TV, 1 bedroom + 2 room both with air conditioner, Outdoor Balinese Bathroom, Kitchen, Full Furniture, Cleaning everyday, Staff and Management in Residence. Contact, only by phone 0821-47844911. Brand new modern 3-bedroom villa w/ pool in Sanur for rent IDR 165 million/ year. Fully furnished, fully equiped kitchen, 900 meter to beach, secured, private. Contact: Great freehold land for sale in Nyanyi, very close to beach and Tanah Lot. 178 are, cheap price IDR 135 mill/are. Good for building villa or resort. info: Brand new modern 2-bedroom villa w/pool in Kerobokan for rent IDR 95 million/year or 16 million/month all inclusive. Fully furnished, expat area, secured, private, 2-3 minutes from LioSquare. Contact: Villa Kerobokan; FOR RENT: spacious 3 bedroom villa with nice design/ character and pool in KEROBOKAN.fully furnished,s'pool,closed living with kitchen area.Quiet area,2 minutes to Seminyak. YEARLY RENT:IDR 115 million. MONTHLY RENT: IDR 18 million all included. More info & photos, Kost exclusive, strategic location. Facilities: AC, LCD TV 32”, hot water, refrigerator, kitchen set, full furniture, back terrace, carpark. IDR 225.000/day, IDR 1.100.000/week, IDR 1.800.000/ month. Casa Nemo; Jl. Palapa 11 Gg. Nemo No. 4 Sesetan Denpasar. Please e-mail: or SMS: 0852 3754 2274 FOR SALE:Unique beautifully designed eco-lodge in CANGGU(built 2009). Located in a quiet green tropical area next to a small floating river.Excisiting of 4 seperate lodges, 1 with large living space, tastefull decorated with vintage European quality furniture and luxurious architect-designed kitchen,3 each containing a huge bedroom and bathroom.Surrounded by a royal measured 20-Are tropical garden and

a 17-meter lap pool.15 Minutes from Seminyak and 10 minutes to Canggu and Echo Beach. USD 350.000 nego,leasehold-37 years. Photos and info: STUNNING new fully furnished CANGGU villa/4,8 are, pool, 3 ensuite bedrooms, closable living, office, garage, 24 years leasehold, USD 270.000 or villa + 5 are land USD 350.000 both negotiable. Contact 0877 6100 6922, van. balder@ Villa Sunset Wave - Medewi Beach Bali Oceanfront Home. INCLUDES:1800 sqm of land, 3 private bungalows & bathrooms, Infinity pool, Indoor/outdoor timber pavilion, New timber kitchen, Bangkirai timber decking, Insect screens throughout, Freehold Title deeds held in Sydney, Australia, Very friendly village atmosphere, Mesmerizing ocean views, International surf hotspot, Opportunity for yoga and artists retreat, Recently redeveloped to immaculate standard The option is yours… The perfect holiday home, investment portfolio, tropical paradise to develop your cottage style business plan, reinvent yourself or simply retire in the land of endless summer days and long striking sunsets. OCEANFRONT PROPERTIES LIKE THIS ARE EXTREMELY RARE IN BALI AND QUITE SERIOUSLY AN AFFORDABLE ONCE-IN-A-LIFETIME OPPORTUNITY. Australian owners reluctantly selling due to the birth of new baby daughter and change in ‘parenting’ priority. EXCEPTIONAL VALUE: Offers of $495,000.00 and above will be considered! Full details at: www. Tel: (02) 9529-2473 Tel: 0417-289-400 – John Tel: 0417-656-098 -Milu- E-mail: NEW furnished villa for sale. Close to Canggu Club. 9,2 are, big pool, 3 ensuite bedrooms, office, parking space, 24 years leasehold (extendable), USD 450.000 negotiable. Contact sandratotin@hotmail. com UBUD LIGHTHOUSE! Sparkling new, modern, bright, spacious 2-floor, 3 ensuite bedrooms, open kitchen & living spaces, terraces, unfurnished property in central Ubud awaits a business, clinic or family seeking the perfect midtown location—combined with privacy, garden & carport. Five year lease. Available immediately. Contact 0821 4783 5711 or e-mail: Villa for rent: area 3 are, 2 bedroom, living room, kitchen, air condition, hot water, swimming pool, big garden. Contact Made: 081 2363 0309 / 0819 1665 9151 Sanur, (Jl Kesari, 5 mins walk to beach and cafes etc), 5 year lease 'for sale': renovated Balinese house with 2.5 br br and modern kitchen, lots of cupboards, AC, fans, fenced pool, 1 car park, small

yard, fully furnished. Rp 700 million for 5 years, incl furniture. E-mail:amolongo@ or call 081 585 117 108. Rare land for 40 year lease, Tanjung Sanur, approx 25 are in 5 are lots, private access road, clear certificates. Rp 6.5 million/are/year. E-mail: amolongo@ hotmail or call 081 585 117 108. FOR SALE CHEAP LAND, 46 ARE — UBUD/BADUNG – IDR 60 MLN/ARE — Rare opportunity from direct owner. Now this beautiful piece of land belongs to region Badung. After road access investment (approximately IDR 800 MLN) it will belong to region UBUD, worth at least IDR 150 MLN/ARE! Price increase of IDR 90 MLN/are! More info at Now or never lease 10 are land in Umalas against a price of two years ago from direct ower. IDR 5,3 mill/are. Most growing area of Bali at the moment. 2 years dry, so ready to build. Road acces already made. 23 years left and the option to extend another 20 years. Contact van.

specifically, so prefer works for a good mature, wise employer (Male / Lady). Available to work immediately under legal consignment letter with local law basis. For further info, contact to +62821-1387-8435 / +62-821-8237-8982 email:

jobs (looking for STAFF) Looking for good, creative, fun and energetic nanny with a background in Education. Able to run child related errands, research/help with homework, and play with them. Email CV to: Fit model required for fashion label. Must measure bust 34” waist 26.5“ and hips 37.5”. Please email chiara@natashagan. Online Start-Up is looking for a Sales & Marketing Manager, Sales Executives and Marketing Executives to join our team. Highly competitive salary. Send your CV to: with subject “HR Bali”. Looking for Bali Wedding Consultant. Require Australian. Wedding experience essential. Good working conditions. Kitas provided. Office based in Legian. Only serious applicants need apply. Please email photo and resume to

FOR SALE VILLA DAMEE Beautiful 3 bedroom Villa located in a peaceful,quiet and serene setting 10 minutes from Ubud. This is the real Bali authentic experience as the villa is situated in the Pakerisan Valley and surrounded by ancient temples. Newly listed the owners are willing to offer special rates for Kitas holders.Can be rented as one or three bedrooms,so ideal for couples or a family. Please contact Dave Metcalf at info@ or visit the website for more info

jobs (looking for WORK) Single mature female (33's old), official working experienced in Management/ Admin Specific Functionary, employed at Government Of Indonesia project and any private sectors e.g; plantation, garment industry, automotive finance. Need the employment as Personal Assistant to Manager / Head Officer wherever will be placed in Indonesia. English adequately and good willing to learn more

Interested in Learning Indonesian Language/ Bahasa?? Please contact Lidya on 0813 3744 1810. Email: Private tutor-Native speaker-Experienced in teaching-Able to teach at all levelswilling to come to your location.

Brand new I phone 5 camera factory sealed $ I phone 4S 64GB for sale, with 2 years warranty. As we offer the promo to buy 2 Unit get 1 free. With Free Shipping article / Discount. We give maximum guarantee for the safe delivery of items purchased. To order kindly Enquiry to the email below: Contact Name :Abbud Aazim Email : skype:abbud.aazim Email;abbud aazim@ Just bought new house, have extra appliances,excellent conditions, TOSHIBA Refrigerator (GR-M66ED) Hybrid Plasma Deodorizer & Minus Ion, 181 cm high, 76 cm width, 71 cm depth, Rp 3,8 million. SAMSUNG Washing Machine (P-853) Front Door, 8 cleaning program, 6,5 kg. Rp 2,5 million. Price nego. Please email /085237482868

SERVICES AndieStuff Web Design Studio : Need a Company Profile, E-commerce, Online Shopping & Product Catalogue websites in a week or two? We can do it for you. Visit us at : Email: Call: 085647778967, 081901011177

BLACKLISTPLANET.COM: Finally a place to warn the world about who, where, and what to avoid! The Expat community is huge. Thousands live & work in countries other than "home". New ones come, old ones move on. We can all help each other from our experiences now. There is now a new, onestop online list of businesses that scam Expats, places that should be avoided, and people to look out for.

OTHERS Yoga Holiday in Bali with Devi Asmarani and Sandra Bicker March 9-17 at Seraya Shores, a boutique beachside resort, and Nirarta Center, a retreat site on a river valley at the foot of Mt. Agung. Deepen your yoga practice, and explore nature in unspoiled East Bali. Special rates for Indonesians and Expats. Contact for further information. 5000 Indonesian Antiques, antiquities and Tribal Art Objects are looking for a “home” where they can properly be displayed and sold. 1000+ Textiles, 350 Stone Sculptures, 300 Wooden Artefacts, Weapons, Bronzes, Paintings and other Works of Art and much more from the Bronze Age to the early 20th century, collected over 40 years, now need a House or Villa, Established Gallery, 5 Star Hotel, Restaurant (or other) where “5 Star Guests” are looking for “5 star Objects”. We’re not looking for big/fast money; we are looking for a reliable partner (with reliable accounting). Large or small, in Bali and/or Jakarta. Let’s Make money together! Contact us:mdmulia98@yahoo. com


19th December 2012 – 15th January 2013 ◆ Bali Expat­­­

Bali Expat - Issue 14 – Christmas & New Year  

Bali Expat is one of Indonesia's largest expatriate readership.