edible SOUTH SHORE速 Number 5 Fall 2009 Celebrating the Abundance of Southeastern Massachusetts, Season by Season
Joy of Clamming New Bedford Scallops Clambake Traditions Weekend in Wareham Marshfield Fair Member of Edible Communities
Working Waterfront Festival Surf & Turf: Fishermen and Farmers Finding Common Ground
re films ultu c g n ishi rcial f e m m g co .. lo live music farmers’ A FREE festival celebratin ma exhibits cooking demonstrations fishermen’s contests t children’s activities panel discussions farmers market vessel tours tugboat muster author readings cooking of the coast guard demos harbor tours whaleboat races vessel toublessing of the fleet fishermen’s contests farmers’ fresh local seafood artisans marketplacefilms m music
September 26 & 27
Port of New Bedford www.workingwaterfrontfestival.org 2 | edible south shore fall 2009
edible South Shore
Grist for the Mill
fresh & Local
by Paula Marcoux
Pass the Purslane
edible Experience Weekend in Wareham
In the Kitchen Dartmouth Grange by Michelle Conway
from Sea to Shore
Come Back for New Bedford Scallops by Laura Vaughan
Joy of Clamming
by Kathleen F. Wright
Allen’s Neck Clambake by Kathy Neustadt
A Wampanoag Clambake
The World is our Oyster, or is it a Clam?
by Linda Coombs
by S. Terry Vandewater
Extending the Harvest Season by Kathy Tracey
Serious Fun at the Marshfield Fair
feeding the Community SEMAP
by Paula Marcoux
by Kezia Bacon-Bernstein
Advertisers’ Directory www.ediblesouthshore.com
Grist for the Mill
edible soUtH sHoRe® Publisher & editor Laurie Hepworth
Co-Publisher/Art direCtor Michael Hart
sAles & MArketing Cindy Reagan Julie Gillis Williams
CoPy editor Sarah Kelley
t edible South Shore, our mission is to celebrate the bounty of seasonal food from southeastern Massachusetts. However, as I am writing this, on yet another rainy, cool, supposedly summer day, farmers across the region are worrying over their tomatoes and potatoes. Late blight is threatening these summer staples, and the weather continues to frustrate attempts to slow the progress of this disease, which can wipe out a field in a week. At farmers’ markets, CSA pick-ups, roadside farm stands, and kitchen tables across the region, everyone is talking about the problem. Will there be any tomatoes to harvest this year? Will the potatoes rot in the fields? The late blight threat has brought acute awareness of the power of Mother Nature and her control over the seasonal and annual cycles of our local food.
Food editor Paula Marcoux
Contributing editor Kate Strassel
Contributors Tina V. Anthony Kezia Bacon-Bernstein Michelle Conway Linda Coombs Paula Marcoux Kathy Neustadt Kate Strassel Kathy Tracey S. Terry Vandewater Laura Vaughan Lisa Whalen Kathleen F. Wright
When shopping at a traditional grocery store––where there is never a shortage of tomatoes, potatoes, or any other type of produce, no matter what time of year it is—many customers are unaware of the challenges that local farmers face each growing season. Conversely, people who shop at farmers’ markets tend to have a better understanding of what it takes to grow food. They will truly appreciate a locally-grown brandywine, savoring every bite and knowing that the farmer who grew it worked darn hard (and suffered many sleepless nights) to bring that tomato to their plate. More than ever, we at edible South Shore encourage you to patronize our region’s farmers’ markets and to let the farmers know how much you appreciate all they do for us—not just during the summer, but each day of the year.
Photo Credit: © Michael Hart (unless noted otherwise)
For many people, fresh local tomatoes are a true sign of a New England summer. But just as hot, sunny days have been hard to come by this year, the same may become true for locally-grown tomatoes this season. Each time you are fortunate enough to enjoy a juicy red beefsteak or a smoky purple Cherokee, be sure to celebrate it. The summer of 2009 has reminded us that local foods are truly a gift.
Published By Hart Design LLC 15 Evergreen Street Kingston, MA 02364 (781) 582-1726 email@example.com www.ediblesouthshore.com
PhotogrAPhy Michael Hart Carole Topalian
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edible south shore® is published quarterly by Hart Design LLC. Telephone: (781) 582-1726
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4 | edible south shore fall 2009
©2009 All Rights Reserved
Tina V. Anthony is beginning her second career as a freelance writer based in Hingham, where she lives with her husband and their three daughters. After years as a Copy Director in the retail industry, Tina finds new inspiration writing about issues pertaining to health, travel, food, and local sustainability.
Kate Strassel is currently pursuing a degree in creative writing and literature at the Harvard Extension School in Cambridge. She lives in East Bridgewater with her husband and two young children and is dedicated to supporting sustainable, organic farming and protecting our environment.
Kezia Bacon-Bernstein authors a monthly column, “Nature (Human and Otherwise),” that has appeared in the Community Newspaper Company’s South Shore newspapers since 1996. She also writes a weekly “Around Town” column for the Marshfield Mariner and occasional articles for other publications.
Kathy Tracey is a horticulturist, garden design consultant, and lecturer. In 1987, Kathy, along with her husband Chris, began Avant Gardens, an uncommon plant nursery and landscape design/build firm in Dartmouth. www.avantgardensne.com
Michelle Conway is a South Shore resident and Manager of Gourmet Services at Foodie’s Market in Duxbury. She has penned articles for the Boston Globe, the Duxbury Clipper, and the Express papers. She is taking classes towards a Masters’ in Gastronomy at Boston University and is the Membership Director for the Boston Chapter of Les Dames D’Escoffier. Linda Coombs, Aquinnah Wampanoag, serves as the Director of the Wampanoag Resource Center of the Wampanoag Indigenous Program at Plimoth Plantation. Linda learned about clambakes from the Mashpee Wampanoag people, and has assisted in putting a few on, but has more experience in having them as a meal.
Photo by Carole Topalian
Paula Marcoux, who has been by turns a professional cook, archaeologist, and food historian, is currently dealing with a slightly over-the-top obsession with wood-fired bread-baking. In her sane moments, she is excited to see people taking back control of their food by asking questions, making choices, and learning how to do things themselves. Kathy Neustadt is the author of Clambake: A History and Celebration of an American Tradition (University of Massachusetts Press, 1992). She writes about food and culture (particularly of New England), and when she’s not relishing the delights of the South Shore, she lives in New Hampshire with her husband, their two dogs, and four cows.
S. Terry Vandewater is a freelance writer and marketing communications consultant with significant retail industry experience. Formerly the Director of Public Affairs/Public Relations for The Stop & Shop Supermarket Company, she acted as media spokesperson covering a variety of food industry issues. Terry’s passion for writing is matched by her love of cooking for family and friends. She lives in Duxbury. Laura Vaughan is a writer, high school history teacher in Fall River, and owner of the quaint bed & breakfast, The Wayfarer, in New Bedford. Lisa Whalen writes deep in the primeval forest of Plymouth. When not gardening, reading, or cooking, she can be found teaching manners to naughty cattle and corralling feral cats. Kathleen F. Wright escaped a career in financial services to pursue her love of writing, especially about the culinary arts. She describes herself as a true hunter-gatherer who loves to tend her gardens, go fishing and clamming, and trek through the woods in search of wild edibles, all the while thinking of how she is going to prepare each item.
THANKSGIVING PIES & HOLIDAY DESSERTS
265 Walnut Plain Road Rochester, MA 02770
Holiday Menus on the Web:
6 | edible south shore fall 2009
edible Notables by Paula Marcoux
Hit the Trail… …the Massachusetts Wine and Cheese Trail, that is. Our state Department of Agricultural Resources has been busy putting together a wonderful resource called Savor Massachusetts (www.mass.gov/agr/massgrown). Download the latest effort, a brochure outlining the surprising variety of in-state options for visits to wineries and cheesemakers. Just as you’d expect, the trail through our own region includes established award-winning companies, like Westport Rivers Winery. But what about a visit to Trevessia Winery in downtown New Bedford or Coastal Vineyards in South Dartmouth? And you may have read about Shy Brothers Farm and their fantastic Hannahbells micro-cheeses in these pages, but who knew you could visit the farm by appointment? Pop one of these brochures in your car, and the trip from Point A to Point B could be a lot more interesting next time! www.mass.gov/agr/massgrown
Buy Direct from the Farm–online!
ou love the Thursday Plymouth Farmers’ Market at Stephens Field, but sometimes it’s so hard to get there before the free-range eggs and those incredible fuchsia-colored turnips are sold out…what’s a dedicated and hungry locavore to do on those late work evenings? Market manager Barbara Anglin has got you covered. Now you can simply visit www.shop.plymouthfarmersmarket.org, browse the list of available products, place your order, pay by credit card, and, presto!, the fix is in. Your order will be packed and waiting for you to pick up at the next Thursday market, whether you arrive at the 2:30 opening bell or just before the 6:30 closing. Volunteers implement the program, so 100% of your payment still flows to the farmers. Consumers like the convenience when there’s just not enough time to shop; farmers love the advance orders since they take the guesswork out of harvest time. Here’s hoping this clever plot succeeds and spreads to other markets across our region, and even, dare we say it, builds the foundation for a future year-round farmers’ market in Plymouth. www.shop.plymouthfarmersmarket.org
housands of hungry folks and tens of thousands of Island Creek oysters will come together at Duxbury Beach on September 12th for this year’s Island Creek Oyster Festival. Now in its fourth incarnation, the festival is planned to be bigger and better (and more ecologically-friendly) than ever. As well as the essentials (oysters and beer), guests may sample small plates made by noted Boston chefs with locally-sourced ingredients like st riped ba ss, d ayboat sca llops, a nd I sland C reek-raised p igs. Proceeds fund the Island Creek Foundation, whose mission is to encourage ecological development locally and to educate and feed those in need regionally and globally. Doors open at 3 pm, and a family-friendly kids’ zone is available from then until 6 pm. Three lively local bands entertain on the main stage as the festival continues until 11 pm. Tickets (and more info about the festival and the foundation) are available at www.islandcreekfoundation.org, but don’t wait, because they WILL sell out. General admission costs fifty clams; shelling out three times that for a VIP-grade ticket allows you to enjoy the presence of celebrity chefs (Jasper White, Jody Adams, and Chris Schlesinger) and generally get more and better everything. Oh, and of course, it supports a really great cause! Island Creek Oyster Festival September 12, 2009, 3:00 to 11:00 pm Duxbury Beach www.islandcreekfoundation.org
“Eat all you want, we’ll grow more” - Island Creek Oyster Festival 2008
Farci de Poisson
Green peppers & tomatoes stuffed with fish
If you attended last year’s Working Waterfront Festival, you may have been lucky enough to catch Marie Gomes’ cooking demonstration. Born in Senegal, Marie now works in the New Bedford fishing industry, and she brings her culinary skills to bear on our local ingredients. This recipe is adapted from hers and is used courtesy of the Festival. With a food processor, this recipe takes about 10 minutes to get underway. You may substitute other fresh local fish for the bluefish if desired. • 1 bread roll or 2 slices bread (2 ounces)
On The Waterfront
elebrate our region’s coastal culture at its epicenter at New Bedford’s Working Waterfront Festival. Myriad performers and demonstrators, food from local restaurants and farms, readings by noted maritime authors, and a vast array of corporate and non-profit partners characterize this sprawling two-day event. This year’s theme explores the two main historic livelihoods of our region, fishing and farming, comparing the traditional ways in which families in these trades have adapted themselves to the natural world. edible south shore’s picks? Why, cooking demonstrations by galley cooks, fisherman’s wives, and local chefs, of course! Fish filleting with a pro (Saturday at 4 pm), Choctaw cooking (Sunday at 4 pm), and contests (Scallop Shucking Saturday at noon and Fish Filleting Sunday at 3:30 pm) are all on our list of must-see events. Both days a Farmers’ Market will take place on the State Pier (11 am - 5 pm). And don’t miss meeting author Kathy Neustadt, whose work is featured in these pages (bring your copy of Clambake for her to sign). Cruise to www.workingwaterfrontfestival.org for the particulars. Oh, and did we mention that admission and parking are free? Working Waterfront Festival Fisherman’s Wharf/Pier 3 — Steamship Pier, New Bedford September 26th (11am - 7pm) and 27th (11am - 5pm) www.workingwaterfrontfestival.org
• ½ cup chopped parsley
• 2 Tablespoons water
• 2 onions, peeled and quartered
• 2 cloves garlic, peeled
• 1 jalapeno or other chile, stemmed and seeded
• 1 pound bluefish, skinned and free of bones, cut in chunks
• 3 ounces (½ a small can) tomato paste
• ¼ cup olive oil
• 1 cup water
• freshly ground black pepper
• 2 bell peppers, halved and cored
• 2 large tomatoes, halved along the equator, seeds extracted
Use a food processor to reduce the bread to crumbs. Toss in the parsley halfway through; it should be minced finely among the crumbs. Empty this in a bowl and sprinkle the 2 tablespoons of water over. Chop half of the quartered onions in food processor. Empty it out and set it aside, too. With the processor running, drop the garlic cloves down the chute. Add the chile and the remaining onion and pulse to roughly chop. Add the fish, ½ teaspoon salt, and pepper to taste, and pulse until mostly ground together. Add the crumb mixture, and pulse just until combined. For the sauce, use a 10-inch sauté pan with a lid. Heat the olive oil over medium high heat, toss in the onion you set aside a few minutes ago, and sauté until it is beginning to color, about 5 minutes. Stir in the tomato paste, 1 cup of water, and salt and pepper to taste. Once it simmers, turn it down to low heat while you stuff the veggies. Pat the farci mixture into the peppers and tomatoes. Set them into the sauce (a little jostling won’t hurt them), cover, and maintain at a steady simmer for 20 minutes or so. (The fish will be opaque throughout.) Serve with rice. Serves 4.
8 | edible south shore fall 2009
fresh & Local
Pass the Purslane Dude, great weed!
ll the hip kids up in the big city are getting into South Shore weed—actually, several weeds. Local farms have been shipping much-maligned purslane and wood-sorrel to critically-lauded establishments an hour north, to accompany fabulous fresh local meats and fish on pricey plates. If you are a gardener who routinely casts Portulaca oloracea and Oxalis stricta onto the compost heap, you might consider joining these open-minded and in-the-know chefs—give the stuff a try! The first plate is free; and so are the subsequent ones… Purslane Salad This South Asian native is not only good to eat both raw and cooked, it’s an incredible nutrient-packed addition to your diet. The very best vegetable-based source of Omega-3 fatty acids (the stuff in the fish-oil capsules), purslane also packs vitamins A, B, and C and dietary minerals magnesium, calcium, potassium, and iron. This crunchy-tart salad is a great companion for anything grilled—say, a succulent striper fillet or some lamb chops or chicken breasts with a spicy rub. For the snappiest texture, chill the purslane, apple, and onion before taking a knife to them.
• 2 cups purslane leaves with tender upper stems (about 4 ounces)
• ¼ of a sweet onion, diced
• 1 crisp apple, diced
• leaves from 4 or 5 stems of mint, finely chopped
• 3 Tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
• 1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice, or more to taste
• salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
Toss ingredients together just before serving. Serves 4.
Buy Fresh, Buy Local! At the Market, we proudly support local businesses. Here are some of the local products we carry:
• Red Eye Coffee Roasters • Narragansett Creamery Yogurt • Shoe City Pizza • The Soy of Life skin products • Mad Hectic Oatmeal • E&T Honey • Langdon Farm Pasta Sauce • Alterna Tea • Pesto Fresco • Great Island Trading Company • Lovin Spoonfulls • Sauces-N-Love • To Die For • New England Cranberry • Effies Oat Cakes • Vermont Butter and Cheese Company • Irvings Gourmet Crock Style Cheese • Colonial Preserves • Standish Farms • Carlson Orchards • The Chocolate Bar • Pastry Arts • Finale • Pain D”Avignon 6 Purchase Street, Plymouth, MA 508.209.0000 • themarketpinehills.com Open Daily 8 am - 8 pm
IF YOU NEED TO PLANT IT, GROW IT, CUT IT, FEED IT, CATCH IT, ENJOY IT,
Nursery & Greenhouse Lawn & Garden Pet & Bird Food Farm Supplies Organic Materials Your Yard, Garden & Pet Place!
WE’VE GOT IT! (OR WE’LL ORDER IT)
Open 7 Days! Mon-Sat 8am-6pm Sunday 9am-5pm 90 Long Pond Road Plymouth, MA 02360
www.morrisonshomeandgarden.com 10 | edible south shore fall 2009
Weekend in Wareham
Sometimes the Gateway… …is the Destination
ast for decades into the supporting role as “Gateway to Cape Cod”—a fate created by confluence of canal, highway, and railway—Wareham certainly deserves a second look. With many miles of shoreline––estuaries, rivers, beaches and ponds––to enjoy, and a fun and funky seaside with pastel-painted Victorians in vintage neighborhoods like Onset Village to explore, the town is a low-key and unpretentious destination in its own right. Why not take a day-trip at cranberry time? Enjoy the weekend-long A.D. Makepeace Cranberry Festival, especially if you’ve never actually seen the annual fall cranberry roundup. Try some fresh local seafood, at Lindsey’s Restaurant or wood-fired pizza next door at Ella’s. Extend your visit with an overnight stay at a B&B or by taking home some cr anberries a nd ha ving som e fun i n y our o wn ki tchen. Best of all, no bridges to cross!
Weekend in Wareham
Food For Your Soul Point Independence Inn by Tina V. Anthony Imagine savoring a sunset with toes in the sand and a glass of wine in hand. At the Point Independence Inn on Onset Beach, it’s not very hard to imagine—in fact, it’s reality. Not only is this restored Mediterranean mansion a feast for the eyes, its spa menu is nothing short of food for the soul. Hosts Michael and Jackie Kennedy have created a beachside haven on the ground floor of their inn. “We’re the only inn with a spa in Onset,” Jackie explains. “We wanted it to feel like a little hideaway, a place where people can let their hair down and feel completely stress free.” And in this idyllic location, that’s precisely what they’ve achieved. Guests experience a heavenly escape from the moment they cross the spa’s threshold. You can enjoy the view of Onset Bay from almost any of the beautifully appointed rooms. The beachside gazebo or glassenclosed and outdoor porches make spectacular vantage points as well. There you can sample artisan cheeses and bite-sized crackers along with wines hand-selected by the hosts. And twice yearly on the front lawn, all guests, staff, and friends of the inn partake in an authentic New England clambake catered by local lobsterman Paul Finnis. “This is one of my favorite spots to do this,” he notes as he serves up a culinary mélange of lobster, clams, potatoes, corn, and spicy linguica sausage. It’s all part of the food for your soul to be found at the Point Independence Inn. Point Independence Inn and Spa Proprietors: Jackie and Michael R. Kennedy 9 Eagle Way Onset, MA 02558 (866) 827-4466 www.pointindependenceinn.com 12 | edible south shore fall 2009
a FreSh Pick The Cranberry Gardens Inn Bed & Breakfast by Tina V. Anthony “The fresher, the better.” That’s the rule of thumb according to Meg Albert, innkeeper at the Cranberry Gardens Inn in Wareham. So, naturally, it came as no surprise to find an organic garden right outside her door. Though her garden does not include cranberry vines, she does grow peppers, tomatoes, eggplant, sage, parsley, rosemary, and a variety of other herbs. “Having our own garden makes all the difference,” says Meg. “I can walk out back and pick fresh herbs to cook with all season.” It also affords this former marketing and community relations professional the opportunity to experiment with different flavors. Meg even develops her own recipes. It seems that when she’s in the kitchen with fresh ingredients, her creativity flourishes. Recently she was inspired to create a delectable combination that’s become her new favorite breakfast. “I topped an English muffin with fresh pesto, Canadian bacon, poached eggs and avocado. It was absolutely delicious,” she confessed. “Working with people’s unique tastes is what I love to do. It’s so nice to be able to present my guests with something they’ll enjoy eating.” It’s no wonder that her signature quiches, stratas, homemade breads, and pancakes have been tantalizing taste buds at the Cranberry Gardens Inn for the past 10 years. Originally built in 1903, this historic home had close ties to the local cranberry industry. One of its builders, John Crocker Makepeace, was a descent of the family responsible for expanding the region’s cranberry production. Today, the Cranberry Gardens Inn is still closely linked to the local farm scene, as Meg and her husband David are huge proponents of using locally grown, in-season produce. In fact, you’re very likely to see her at nearby Nessralla Farm Stand selecting fresh-picked fruit, and vegetables. She also frequents How on Earth: The Store in Mattapoisett for eggs, meats, and other sustainably-farmed favorites. Cranberry Gardens Inn Bed & Breakfast Innkeepers: Meg & David Albert 105 High Street Wareham, MA 02571 (508) 295-9475
cranberrY FeStival Harvest Celebration at Tihonet Village by Lisa Whalen Brilliant red berries corralled in flooded bogs rimmed with yellowand orange-tinged trees: the quintessential image of autumn in southeastern New England. Such scenery is undoubtedly one of the reasons that 12,000 people from around the world attended the A.D. Makepeace Company’s Annual Cranberry Harvest Celebration last year. The affordable entrance fee, the range of children’s activities, and the juried crafts, cooking demonstrations, and musical performances are among the other reasons to put this event on your calendar. Join A.D. Makepeace, the world’s largest cranberry grower, and the Cape Cod Cranberry Growers’ Association for the 6th Annual Cranberry Harvest Celebration over Columbus Day Weekend. Throughout the weekend, enjoy musical performances by area talent. For the children there is fun both old- and new-fashioned: wagon and pony rides, pumpkin and face painting, games and coloring contests. The highlight of the Cranberry Harvest Celebration is a guided tour of a working cranberry bog, where state-of-the-art technology enhances growing techniques developed over the last two centuries. Learn more about this industry and its significant role in the region’s economy. Come see where your favorite breakfast juice or poultry condiment begins, and enjoy a low-cost family weekend in a beautiful New England landscape. 6th Annual Cranberry Harvest Celebration Saturday & Sunday October 10 & 11, 2009 10:00 am to 4:00 pm, rain or shine Admission: $2.00; Age 6 and under: Free A.D. Makepeace Company Headquarters at Tihonet Village 158 Tihonet Road Wareham, MA 02571 (508) 295-1000 www.cranberries.org www.admakepeace.com
Weekend in Wareham
A Beloved Wareham Landmark
by Kate Strassel
n the outside, Lindsey’s Family Restaurant might not seem much different than the dozens of other seafood establishments serving the upper Cape area. But patrons of the popular landmark on Route 28 will tell you that when it comes to hospitality, value, and of course, the freshest seasonal seafood Wareham has to offer, Lindsey’s is the place to go. Certainly their seafood bisque, which has been a customer favorite since its debut back in 1980, can’t be beat. The savory, creamy soup, brimming with large chunks of shrimp, haddock, scallops, and lobster meat, has won several awards—including Best Overall at the America’s Thanksgiving Food Festival in Plymouth last November and The Community Newspapers Regional Gold Award for Best Dinner two years in a row. Surprisingly, though, much of what makes Lindsey’s the premier destination for seafood—and what has allowed the restaurant to thrive amongst the myriad chain restaurants that have sprung up on the Cape— takes place long before each dish is placed before the customer. From its humble beginnings as a roadside clam shack in 1948 all the way up to the present, Lindsey’s primary mission has been to provide its customers with fresh, delicious, affordable food. Frances Lindsey was a college-educated dietician who took nutrition seriously, and her passion was evident in the recipes she and her husband Paul created throughout the 1950’s and 60’s. While the menu may have changed slightly over the years, the Lindsey family’s commitment to their customers, their staff, and even the environment has only grown stronger with each passing decade. Today the restaurant is run by Cheryl Lindsey and her longtime friend and general manager Mary Labonte, backed by a staff of dedicated and caring employees, many of whom have been with Lindsey’s for years (the chef, Arthur Elgar, recently celebrated his thirty-second year at the restaurant). Cheryl admits that some might call her strict when it comes to managing her staff, but only for the customer’s sake. “[The staff ] would do anything for me and each other,” says Cheryl. 14 | edible south shore fall 2009
Seafood bisque,“Happy” the clam, Paul Lindsey, and prep room.
As for the culinary reasons behind Lindsey’s continued success, every dish is prepared using only the freshest seasonal seafood, meats, vegetables, and fruits. Unlike many other restaurants in the area, Lindsey’s fish buyer purchases only “dayboat” and “top of the trip” (meaning the most recently caught) seafood from licensed fishermen. Each piece of fish that comes into the restaurant is “candled” or placed on a special illuminated countertop, to ensure that no sea worms are present. “Nobody candles fish anymore,” says chef Arthur. “But we do it for our customers.” Much of the produce used in the restaurant is supplied by Nessralla’s, which works with other local farmers to bring in such seasonal items as strawberries and butternut squash. And everything is made from scratch—a practice that is becoming increasingly rare in the restaurant business today. “Our mashed potatoes were actual potatoes only two hours before they are served,” points out Cheryl Lindsey. “We prep all of our own ingredients, and we use local, seasonal produce whenever we can.” Indeed, one of the most impressive and telling sights at Lindsey’s is one that most customers will probably never set eyes on: the expansive prep area that encompasses the entire basement of the restaurant. Each day, the prep staff—under the watchful eye of chef Arthur—peels, chops, dices and juliennes everything from potatoes to lettuce to special items such as Chioggia beets. Whole turkeys are also roasted in the prep area. Cheryl acknowledges that having a fulltime prep kitchen is more time-consuming and may cost more than using pre-packaged prepared foods such as bagged lettuce and frozen green beans, but knowing that she is serving fresh, healthy meals to her customers is well worth the extra effort. “Too many people worry about the bottom line. You have to take care of your customers.” Working to protect the environment is yet another way that Lindsey’s expresses its concern for the health and well-being of its patrons. “Lindsey’s was green before ‘green’ was a buzzword,” states marketing spokesperson Leanne Schiller. In addition to
edible South Shore Recommends: Gourmet and Gourmand 219 Main Street Wareham, MA 02571 (508) 295-1915 email@example.com
Cheryl Lindsey and Chef Arthur Elgar strive to continue the family traditions started by her husband’s grandparents. Old Company Store 5 Elm Street Wareham, MA 02571 (508) 291-7871 www.oldcompanystore.com
Lindsey’s use of local seafood and produce whenever possible, most of the lighting in the restaurant has been converted to LED, and lights are turned off whenever rooms are not being used in order to conserve power. The trans-fat free cooking oil—which Lindsey’s was using long before trans-fats became a public enemy—is collected and recycled into fuel for cars. All bottles and cardboard are recycled, and the takeout bags are made from 100% recycled material. Cheryl is constantly looking for new ways to make the restaurant even more environmentally-friendly, but she does not plan to seek certification from the Green Restaurant Association. “I do it for myself and for my customers because it’s the right thing to do,” she says. “The customers might not know I’m doing it, but I know.” As customers continue to return to Lindsey’s Family Restaurant for the exceptional hospitality and the fresh, delicious, and consistent home-cooked meals, Cheryl and her dedicated staff will continue the family traditions started by her husband’s grandparents over half a century ago with a smile and a positive outlook. Even in these difficult economic times, Lindsey’s dining rooms are always busy, and Cheryl smiles as she talks about her diverse clientele. “What I love about walking into my restaurant is that in one booth I’ll see four guys from the gas company, and in the next booth there’s a woman who was dropped off by her chauffeur, and in another booth are life-long friends who come in once a month for lunch. We appeal to everybody.” It is for that reason, as well as the superior service and excellent food, that Lindsey’s will long remain the upper Cape landmark it is today.
Lindsey’s Family Restaurant 3138 Cranberry Highway Rte. 6 & 28 East Wareham, Massachusetts 02538 (508) 759-5544 www.lindseysfamilyrestaurant.com
Ella’s Wood Burning Grill 3136 C ranberry Hwy Wareham, M A 02571 (508) 759-3600
Wareham cranberry growers selling retail:
Organic berries nearby:
Bull Frog Acres 195 Blackmore Pond Road West Wareham, MA 02576 (774) 553-5032 www.bullfrogacres.com
Orcranics 810H eadoft heB ayR oad Buzzards Bay, MA 02532 www.orcranics.com
Willows Cranberries 2667 Cranberry Highway Wareham, MA 02571 (508) 295- 9990 www.willowscranberries.com
Cranberry Hill Farm 103 Haskell Road Plymouth, MA 02360 (508) 888-9179 www.Organiccranberries.com
Weekend in Wareham
Do not Fear
the steamed pudding
Cranberry Steamed Pudding With butter Sauce Do not fear the steamed pudding! These bygone desserts are tremendously easy and fun to make, and edible South Shore promises you that if you try this one –– an excellent example from Preble Bailey of Kingston –– you’ll be a believer! And once you’ve figured out your pudding-steaming logistics, future puddings will be child’s play. All you need is a mold, a big pot to steam it in, and a rack to hold the mold securely one to two inches above the bottom of the pan. A 6 cup ceramic mixing bowl works perfectly as a mold, but if you inherited your great-aunt’s fa ncy m etal m old w ith i ts conv enient lid, by all means give it a whirl.
Toss the halved cranberries in the dry ingredients, and add to the molasses mixture. Stir together briefly and turn the batter into your ungreased mold, smoothing the top. Top with some foil, folding the edges tight against the sides of the bowl (or, of course, use the mold lid if you have one). Ease the mold onto your steamer rack. (Protect your hands with dishtowels or oven mitts – as you may know, steam can be hot!) Cover, adjust the heat for an aggressive simmer, and steam 1 hour and ten minutes. If you start with less than 2 inches of water, be sure to check the level now and again during the steaming process; top off with boiling water if necessary. When the pudding is done, a wooden skewer poked in the center will emerge clean. Let the pudding cool in its mold at least 10 minutes. Unmold onto a serving plate and serve in wedges with warm butter sauce.
• 1 cup all-purpose flour
• 2 teaspoons baking powder
• pinch salt
• 2 cups (6 ounces) fresh or frozen cranberries, halved
• 1 egg
• ¼ cup (2 ounces) butter
• ½ cup molasses
• ½ cup sugar
• 1 cup hot tap water
• ¼ cup cream
• 2 drops vanilla extract
First, set up your steaming arrangement, making sure it all works while it’s nice and cool. Then pour in water into the pot up to the rack and set it on to boil. Whisk together flour, baking powder, and salt. In a separate mixing bowl, whisk the egg, adding the molasses and then the hot water.
Melt butter in small saucepan over low heat. Add sugar and cream and stir until sugar melts and sauce is quite warm. Do not boil. Stir in vanilla and serve warm over the pudding. Serves 6-8
16 | edible south shore fall 2009
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in the Kitchen
dartmouth GranGe by Michelle Conway
he Dartmouth Grange is tucked down a winding country road, nestled in between a working farm and goats bleating in the neighborâ€™s pastoral garden. This unassuming building houses the hopes and dreams of nearly two dozen entrepreneurial specialty food business owners. Five years ago a large tree fell on the beloved building, causing severe damage to the existing kitchen. The Grange members were planning to rebuild when volunteer Julie Manley approached the table with a fresh idea. She suggested renovating the space to create a 2,000 square-foot incubator kitchen where aspiring culinary business owners could get a head start. Two other kitchen incubators in Massachusetts were successfully supporting new food related ventures, but Southeastern Massachusetts and Rhode Island were lacking a launching pad for culinary dreams. It took four years of planning, fundraising, grant writing, and building to make the dream a reality. Standing in the gleaming industrial kitchen surveying the equipment, itâ€™s easy to feel the thrill of inspiration. The forty-gallon steam kettle is
used for making jams and jellies, double stacked convection ovens crank out sweet cookies and cupcakes, and tilt skillets, six-burner gas stoves, and forty-quart mixers stand ready for the next great food idea. There are currently twenty users paying on an hourly basis for exclusive kitchen time. The kitchen is available seven days a week, twentyfour hours a day. Jim Broderick takes advantage of the round-the-clock availability and camps in the Grange Kitchen office during his overnight stints. It takes twenty-four hours to create his Teather organic dried fruit snacks. Jim patiently simmers, cools, dries, and stretches his creations in the Grange Kitchen, grabbing a brief snooze in between tasks. For most users, the kitchen is just one stop of many along the road to a finished product. Jill Houck of Flour Girls Bakery travels from Marion, toting along many of her ingredients and some of the equipment necessary to create her specialty desserts. Despite the effort involved in constantly lugging, loading, and unloading, having access to the Dartmouth Grange Kitchen is the only way she could get her fledgling busi-
the dartmouth GranGe kitchen
ness off the ground. She and the other new business owners depend on the fully licensed and approved facility to create their products in a cost-effective way. Setting up, insuring, and licensing a kitchen would be prohibitively expensive for a prospective business owner. The Dartmouth Grange Kitchen’s state-of-the-art equipment and licensed facility is available for $23 to $33 per hour, making it financially feasible to launch a business. Tammy Watson of Mazie’s Organic Catering feels that the kitchen offers her a place to create delicious food without having “to compromise the product to save money.” The Dartmouth Grange Kitchen has just one employee. Kitchen Coordinator Cyndi Jacobs, owner of The Best Damn Granola Company and a kitchen user herself, is part business manager and part personal coach. Via her regular emails and phone calls, she guides the Kitchen users through the daunting permitting and licensing requirements. The paperwork for starting and running a food business can be overwhelming, but Cyndi’s knowledgeable, patient approach encourages and nourishes each product from its introduction to the Kitchen until the day fledgling businesses are ready to take off. “Without Cyndi, I would have given up,” says Tammy. Since the Dartmouth Grange Kitchen opened in 2007, Nuestra Culinary Ventures in Boston has closed, leaving just the Dartmouth Grange and the Western Mass. Food Center in Greenfield to support and launch new culinary businesses. Cyndi Jacobs and the Dartmouth Grange Kitchen continue to make dreams into delicious realities.
Serving the following food businesses: Besto Pesto...................................................www.bestopestori.com Teather Snacks...........................................www.teathersnacks.com Cape Cod Sauce Company..........................firstname.lastname@example.org The Cupcakerie...........................................www.thecupcakerie.net Dahlicious Lassi..............................................www.dahlicious.com Flour Girls Baking Company..............www.flourgirlsbakingco.com Garnish Events...........................................www.garnishevent.com Green Gal Catering & Events................www.greengalcatering.com Kandola Kitchen.....................................www.kandolakitchen.com Little Victory Catering......................www.littlevictorycatering.com Mazie’s Organic Catering..............www.maziesorganiccatering.com Medelights.....................................................www.medelights.com Montillo Italian Foods.........................................www.vinocotto.us Ripe Foods and Events..............................www.ripehospitality.com
Dartmouth Grange Kitchen Cyndi Jacobs 1133 F isher R oad Dartmouth, MA 02747 (508) 636-1900 www.dartmouthgrange.org email@example.com 20 | edible south shore fall 2009
Ric’s Pantry......................................................www.ricspantry.com Tavares Hillside Farms...........................................(401) 624-6684 The Best Damn Granola Co...........www.thebestdamngranola.com Walters Specialty Food.....................www.walterspecialtyfoods.com The Wagging Dog Bakery & Deli......www.waggingdogbakery.com
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from Sea to Shore
Come Back for New Bedford Scallops by laura Vaughan
oday, if you were to ask a New Bedford fisherman, “How goes the fishing?,” you most likely will see a frown and a look that longs for the “good old days when fish were plenty.” But if you ask a New Bedford scalloper, “How goes the scalloping?,” I can guarantee you will see a smile as broad and mirthful as a sea scallop’s gaping shell. Why? Because the New Bedford scallop industry is booming. Since 1981, according to Connie Barclay of NOAA (National Oceanic Atmospheric Administration), New Bedford had the largest sea scallop catch of any port in the United States. Therefore, it makes sense that the largest scallop processing firm in the world, Eastern Fisheries, Inc., would also be located along New Bedford’s working waterfront. If you are eating scallops in New England—or, for that matter, England—they were most likely landed in New Bedford. Yes, it’s 2009 and scallops are abundant in New Bedford—which makes it hard to believe that in 1994 our sea scallop was on its way to besting whales and textile mills for the top spot on the region’s endangered species list. Before we venture on to the scallop’s downward spiral and its miraculous comeback, a word about its nomenclature and workings. The sea scallop that sets the standard for taste in North American fish markets is Placopecten magellanicus. This scallop, like all scallops, is a bivalve mollusk. That means it’s a filter feeder, spending its days and nights lying upon the cool, deep ocean floor, shell agape, eating and breathing in ocean water filled with plankton and oxygen. It can live up to 20 years, growing to myth-inspiring size, but it tends to be the four- to ten-year-old sea scallop
22 | edible south shore fall 2009
that is most commonly captured and eaten by humans. Unlike its cousins the oyster, mussel, and clam, which have two adductor muscles to keep their shells closed, the scallop only has one. The sea scallop’s adductor muscle grows unusually large, because the single muscle must multi-task. The scallop adductor is used to store sugars for reproduction, to clamp the shell shut when in danger, and to power the scallop’s swimming when under threat. It is this enlarged muscle that is the basis of countless fantastic dining experiences. To find out about the changes in the scallop industry toward the end of the twentieth century, I spoke to Captain Chris Wright of the scallop boat Huntress out of Fairhaven. (The Fairhaven fishing fleet is considered part of the New Bedford’s, because they land their catch either at the Whaling City Seafood Display Auction in New Bedford or at one of New Bedford’s processing plants. The two ports combined boast between 275-350 fishing vessels depending on the season, sixty percent of which are scallop boats.) I met Captain Wright on one of those glorious summer days. The air was soft. The harbor sparkled. And the 100-foot green-painted Huntress glistened in its berth. After fishing with his father and uncles as a teenager, Captain Wright attended Massachusetts Maritime Academy, dabbling in big ships, before coming back to his fishing roots. He started out as crew, and has now been captain of the Huntress, a two-dredge scallop boat, for 21 years. Captain Wright described what the scallop industry was like when he started out. “It used to be that boats would go out for two weeks, then back in to rest for five days, then back out again for
two weeks, then back in to rest for five days, etc.,” he explained. “This went on all year long. It was just too many days and too many boats; the [scallop harvest] amounts were getting smaller and smaller.” Scallops were not the only creatures in the sea losing population; yellowtail and groundfish were being depleted, too. This decline prompted the government to close off areas to fishing and scallop boats. Into this fray stepped two researchers from SMAST (School for Marine, Science and Technologies, University of Massachusetts, Dartmouth). Oceanographers Kevin Stokesbury and Brian Rothschild, aided by captains, crews, and processing corporations from within the scallop industry, placed cameras on the ocean floor in order to count the shellfish. They discovered that the scallop population had begun to regenerate in the closed-off areas. This finding meant that the industry, if properly regulated, could continue to harvest scallops. As a result, the New England Fishery Management Council, armed with Stokesbury’s and Rothschild’s data, was able to develop a resource management system. Vast areas, bounded by the northern edges of Georges Banks, down to a point off the coast of Virginia, and out to about 150 miles east of Nantucket, are closed yearly. In these areas, boats are regulated by limits on trips and amounts of scallops taken. In open areas, the days are quite limited, but not amounts. The system works. And presently, the scallop population and the industry are both healthy. Scallops are going to be around for a while due to some very good resource management and cooperation between the various players in the scallop industry—this is great news for consumers on many levels. Scallops are rich in vitamin B12, calcium, iron, magnesium, potassium, zinc, and copper. They are also an excellent source of protein, phosphorus, and selenium. Watchdog groups such as www.organicconsumers.org regard scallops as a safe seafood to eat. But let’s get serious here—putting aside all the good healthy stuff—have you ever had one? Nirvana. And easy and quick to cook, too. What should you look for when buying a scallop? Retailers may use some confusing terminology. “Day boat” scallops are dredged by boats that go out just for the day, so the scallops are brought back fresh. This differs from the average one- to two-week journey into the northern and outer Georges Banks. On these longer trips the scallops are shucked on board, packed in ice, or flash frozen at sea. “Diver” scallops are hand picked off the seabed by a diver. These scallops are not only fresh, but also culled for their size and good looks. Many connoisseurs attest that diver scallops are the best. Less desirably, “wet-packed” or “soaked” scallops are scallops that are steeped in a sodium tripolyphosphate solution (STP). Some
processing firms often use STP when shipping scallops throughout the U.S. and abroad. Leaving scallops in STP increases the water weight of a scallop—more weight, more money. Since 1994, its use is prohibited on scallop boats. Effectively, these regulations protect processors from buying soaked scallops from fishermen, but they do little to protect the consumer from processors who use STP. However, a little knowledge may protect you from soaked scallops. First, always buy your seafood from a reputable market. Second, scallops should be pinkish or creamy looking; if the scallops are pure white and are sitting in a bath of milky brine, don’t buy them. Look for scallops that are slightly dry and sticky. A truly fresh scallop should almost bounce off the counter. And if you want to sample the best and freshest in a restaurant, come to the scallop capital of the world. The collective assertion from the many New Bedford restaurant owners to whom I spoke was: “My customers know good scallops. If I gave them anything but the best they’d never come back.” And what a comeback the industry has had.
Grilled Scallops With Green velvet Sauce
• ½ cup unblanched almonds
• 1 clove garlic
• 1 cup young arugula leaves
• 1 cup parsley leaves and tender stems
• ½ cup extra-virgin olive oil
• 2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice
• freshly ground black pepper
• 1 pound sea scallops
Start a nice hardwood or charcoal fire. Cover your ears and grind the almonds in a food processor. When they are about half their original size, throw in the garlic, followed by the arugula and parsley, then olive oil and lemon juice. Continue processing until smooth. Season with salt and pepper. Set aside. When your coals are ready (covered with ash), brush scallops with olive oil, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and grill briefly – just until sear marks appear on surface. Flip, sear, and you’re done. Serve the scallops on a bed of sauce. Serves 4.
oF c lamminG by Kathleen F. Wright
At Powder Point Bridge in Duxbury, Souther Barnes, Susan Schofield, and Joe Sybertz enjoy the pursuit of clamming and the resulting bountiful rewards. 24 | edible south shore fall 2009
hen I was a child, my family would spend some of our summer vacation at my grandparents’ cottage in Sandwich. I think back and I can feel the hot sand on my feet as I scampered over the sand dunes of Town Beach. My brother and I passed whole days building sandcastles and looking for hermit crabs at the cool water’s edge. I can still hear The Eagles or Steely Dan playing on the radio and the soft riffle of cards being dealt as the adults played Michigan Rummy after dinner.The memory I most associate with these wonderful summers, though, is of my grandfather pulling into the driveway in his lime green Ford LTD and opening its cavernous trunk to reveal a half-bushel of soft-shell or “steamer” clams, still squirting. After a quick rinse with the hose, he would deposit them on the kitchen counter, while my grandmother would pull down the double-decker lobster pot from the pantry and fill it with an inch or two of water.
As soon as the water started to boil, the whole mess of clams would be unceremoniously dumped in, shells clinking on enamel, and for the next ten minutes there would be a flurry of activity around the table. An oilcloth would be spread out, and at each place would be set two heavy round coffee cups without the saucers, one for melted butter and one for the clam â€œbrothâ€? - or the cooking liquid. A big plastic bowl for the empty shells would go in the center of the table, along with a plate of lemon wedges. continued >>
Leaving the beach, heading home with her limit. Like seagulls in a parking lot when you throw a crust of sandwich out the window, my family would descend on the table as soon as my grandmother placed the platter of steamers in the center. Just minutes before you couldn’t have pried the clam open without cutting your fingers, but now they offered up their succulent morsels willingly. The cooked clam was scooped out and the “collar” around the neck of the clam was stripped off and discarded. A quick “swish swish” in the hot broth would rid the clam of any remaining bits of sand, then a swirl in the melted butter splashed with lemon, and pop!, into your mouth it would go, until the mountain of steamers became a mountain of shells. As a child, I was a lazy clammer, content to let my grandfather do most of the work and easily distracted by the passing boats and treasures of a tide pool. Boy, was I in for a surprise when I took up clamming on my own, as a young adult. Armed with the tools of the trade, I headed out to the flats of Nauset Bay in Orleans. It was a glorious day, sunny and calm, and for the two hours on each side of low tide I wielded my rakes, filling my basket with steamers, quahogs and mussels. I was having so much fun it didn’t register just how much digging, scampering from hole to hole, and gear-hauling I was actually doing until the next morning when I woke up. The backs of my legs and between my shoulder blades ached, and I had a dime-sized blister between my thumb and index finger from pulling the quahog rake. I also had annoying little cuts all over my fingers from the sharp shells, and to top it off, I had sunburn on my head from forgetting to wear a hat. This humbling experience taught me two things. One, clamming can be hard work, and, two, never again complain about the seemingly high cost of a plate of fried clams.
26 | edible south shore fall 2009
These initial aches and blisters were not enough to deter me from many future clamming excursions, and today, whether I am going for hard- or soft-shell clams or even the underappreciated mussel, I find it to be a rewarding experience on a number of fronts. Like gardening, fishing, or sailing, clamming requires enough physical exertion and skill to be stimulating, while still allowing the mind to wander. It provides me with an opportunity to enjoy immersion in the natural world. I clam in the North River in Marshfield, which can have a quick tidal excursion, so I need to be constantly aware of the rhythm of the tide. If I get too caught up in my clamming, I can get trapped on a sandbar with the tide coming in fast. Wading (or swimming) through deep water with clams, rakes, and rubber boots can be downright dangerous. I think it’s good to be reminded of the power of nature, though, even as I am enjoying the beauty she has to offer. The smell of the salty air on a foggy day, the distinct cries of willets and terns, and the feel of the mud tugging on my boots provide a multi-sensory feast only eclipsed by the taste of the shellfish I harvest. These experiences are not just mine to enjoy. You do not need to live in a seaside town or own an expensive property on the ocean to particpate in this pastime. You do not even need your grandfather to pass along his expertise. What you will need is a few pieces of equipment, a basic knowledge of the mollusks you will harvest, and a license. For those of us who live on the South Shore, there are many towns that offer licenses to both residents and nonresidents for a surprisingly low cost. Although a shellfish license in Massachusetts can allow you to harvest everything from clams to oysters to scallops to mussels, depending on the season and local restrictions, most recreational clammers tend to go for either the soft-shell or hard-shell clams. Each requires a different piece of equipment and a different technique for digging.
clamminG reSourceS New England Marine and Industrial 294 Ocean Street Brant Rock, MA 02020 (781) 834-9301 www.newenglandmarine.com Red Top Sporting Goods 265 Main Street Buzzards Bay, MA 02532 (508) 759-3371 www.redtoptackle.com Massachusetts tide charts: www.boatma.com/tides
Hardshell Duxbury clams scrubbed clean and ready for grilling. If you are going for soft-shell or “steamer” clams, you prowl through the tidal flats at dead low tide, keeping a keen eye out for the tell-tale perfectly round hole, about the size of a pencil eraser, that signifies that a clam is lurking somewhere in the sand below. Using your short-handled clam rake, you push the tines straight in about an inch in front of the hole and dig down sometimes as much as a foot. Digging in front of the clam prevents you from breaking their delicate shells. Quahogs, unlike soft-shells, tend to be only a few inches below the sand. Walk out into the water at low tide to probe for them using a quahog rake, which has a long handle equipped with a metal basket with several sharp tines. Extending the rake as far as you can, allowing the tines to bite into the sand, you pull slowly back until you feel the clink of metal on shell. With a flick of the wrist, you’ll flip the quahog up and into the basket. Swishing away the sand or mud, you hope for a clam rather than a rock. There are size and quantity restrictions for quahogs and steamers, so be sure to use your shellfish gauge, a metal ring that will tell you if you have a keeper. Soft-shells must be at least 2 inches long to keep, and quahogs need to be at least 1 inch thick. The best thing about clamming is ultimately in the preparation and eating of your haul. Fish you’ve caught or vegetables you’ve grown always taste better than store-bought, and the same goes for clams. The smallest quahog, the littleneck, needs little more than a clam knife and a spritz of lemon or hot sauce, while cherrystones, the next size up, work well in pasta sauces. Any of the larger quahogs are best in stuffies, clam pie, or chowder. Whether you decide to take up clamming to enjoy nature, to satisfy your hunter-gatherer instinct, or simply to enjoy a plate of steamers or a bowl of homemade chowder, make sure you observe the rules of nature as well as the rules of your local shellfish warden. All you need is a license, a tide chart, a few pieces of equipment, and some elbow grease. A bottle of wine, a stick of butter, and a lemon can’t hurt, either.
Massachusetts shellfish regulations: www.mass.gov/dfwele/dmf/ recreationalfishing/rec_index.htm#shellfish Clams on the Grill Recipe Courtesy of Don Wright
This recipe comes from the author’s husband; his recipe does tasty justice to a pile of freshly-dug bivalves!
• ½ cup olive oil
• ¼ cup (2 ounces) butter
• 1 Tablespoon freshly chopped garlic
• 1 Tablespoon finely minced fresh tarragon
• ¼ cup finely minced fresh parsley
• ¼ cup Pernod (anise flavored liquor)
• juice of one lemon
• freshly ground black pepper
• 2 dozen little necks or cherrystones, scrubbed clean.
Make a nice hardwood or charcoal fire and let it burn down to ash-covered coals, or heat a gas grill until hot. Place all the sauce ingredients in fireproof pot or pan large enough to accommodate all the clams. Arrange the clams in a single layer on their sides on the grill. Put the pan with the sauce ingredients off to one side of the fire to heat to almost a simmer. After a couple of minutes, turn the clams over. When they start to spit out juice, pick them up with sturdy tongs, and drain the precious fluids into your sauce. When the clams have popped open more than a half-inch or so (sometimes plying them with your tongs gives them the hint that it’s time to open), move them carefully, shell and all, to the pot of sauce. Toss them in the sauce and serve hot with crusty French bread or over pasta. Serves 6.
allen’S neck clambake by Kathy Neustadt
f you’ve never had the chance to go to a clambake but think you’d like to try one, consider this: some of the best in the world can be found right here in Southeastern Massachusetts. After all, this is likely where the open-air, bivalve-feasting tradition got started in the first place, and it’s where most of what goes into a bake is still relatively abundant. Which probably helps explain the large number of local commercial enterprises currently vying to provide you with this quintessentially New England experience in the form of fund-raising dinners, family get-togethers, and even wedding receptions (check out the phone book or google “clambakes, South Shore” to see what I mean). At the same time, there are plenty of clambakes around that even the connoisseurs would consider real, old-fashioned, Yankee classics. They’re the ones you’re more likely to learn about from reading handwritten signs tacked up on telephone poles or by word of mouth: community-based celebrations, which the same people tend to put on in the same way over a good long stretch of time at places like Old Home Days and Grange fairs. Or like the Allen’s Neck Friends Meeting (a Quaker church) in South Dartmouth, which has been holding its clambake—“same as last year”—for the past 121 years. Of course, when the Allen’s Neck Clambake first began in 1888, it was nothing more than a Sunday school picnic held on Horseneck Beach, where church members caught mackerel and dug the clams needed to feed their small gathering. But as the bake grew more 28 | edible south shore fall 2009
popular over the years, they moved it off the beach, closer to the Meeting House, and—like the good Yankees they were—started selling tickets to summer residents and other folks “from away” to help support the church. In 1988, the bake’s 100th anniversary, the Smithsonian Institution recognized the cultural significance of the Allen’s Neck Clambake by inviting its participation at the Festival of American Folklife in Washington, D.C. Back in rural Dartmouth again, the grove at the corner of Horseneck and Allen’s Neck Roads is empty every other day of the year, but on the third Thursday of August, it’s a scene of considerable hustle and bustle. Work begins shortly after 7 am, when a group of stalwart church members and their families and friends gather to build and light the fire, and ends sometime in the mid-afternoon, when the last dish has been put away and the trash trucked off to the dump. In between, there’s a whole range of tasks and experiences designed to keep the feast—and the community that provides it—on track and running smoothly. By now, we’re all familiar with the saying “It takes a village to raise a child.” But some things can take more than a village to get done properly, and the result for the Allen’s Neck bakemaster—lobsterman and former fire chief Raymond Davoll—is that he’s got plenty of help: church members and their neighbors and friends, of course, but also their families, and their families’ families and friends. When I ask Raymond how many people actually work on the bake (I’ve heard estimates of 150 and counted up nearly that
Since 1888, from start to finish, the Allen’s Neck Friends Clambake has maintained a flawless flow. many myself ), he gives me a perfect “traditional” reply: “I don’t know. But I’m expecting if you came last year, you’ll come again this year.” Raymond handles most of the food provisioning himself, starting with lining up Bob Gifford, owner of Lee’s Wharf Lobster in Westport, to order the clams, which, these days, tend to come from Maine or Maritime Canada. For the sweet potatoes and watermelon, he goes to Andrews Fruit and Produce in Fall River, and, on the day of the bake, he picks up the corn at Paul Tavares’ farm on Slades Corner Road in Russell’s Mills. (Since Davidson’s butchery in New Bedford lost its supply of pickled tripe—the lining of the cow’s stomach, traditionally served at Allen’s Neck—Raymond has crossed it off his list, but there are lots of old timers who still miss “the old bathing caps,” as the kids loved to call it.) In fact, it’s the young folks—a lot of them visiting cousins—who make up a good part of the work crew that sets out at low tide the day before clambake to collect rockweed. (Rockweed is the seaweed with the air pockets, which provides the clambake’s distinctive flavoring and necessary moisture.) Their youthful energy is a good thing, too, since they’ll have to cut, pull, and wrestle enough weed off the barnacled rocks along the Westport River shoreline to fill up a truck. It’s work that, in typical Yankee understatement, Burney Gifford—a mainstay of the community and a clambake lifer—describes as “pretty tedious.” “But,” he adds with a laugh, “you’re going to be there, right?”
Corey Gifford, Burney’s daughter, has recently taken over the job of making sure that all the baked goods show up: the couple of dozen loaves of brown bread and nearly a hundred pies—up from the 85 of recent years. (Lay it at the feet of conspicuous consumption, but it’s not uncommon to see people at the end of the clambake meal surrounding themselves with multiple slices of pie, and it always seems that someone is calling for more lemon meringue.) “Some of the older people aren’t able to make as many pies as they used to,” Corey explains, “so I’m trying to get the younger people involved. I figure, the more, the merrier.” On the morning of clambake, Marcia Medeiros opens up the Meeting House at 8 am to get started on her dressing. (Call this dish “stuffing,” and everyone will know you’re an outsider, but—except for the addition of Common Crackers and, now, quahogs—it really is a lot like what you’d serve with a turkey.) “It was when [sisters] Mary Davoll and Hettie Tripp were probably in their 90s, doing the dressing alone, that my mother told me I needed to take over the job,” Marcia explains, and she’s been in charge of it ever since. “These days, I work with my friends Joyce and Lindy and whatever grandchildren we can drag in”—which, last year, she notes with pride, added up to 20 descendants of the Smith family. “It’s good for them to see things like this, I think. And to learn about hard work.” Marcia’s sister, Patty Cogswell, can’t remember how she came to be in charge of Table #2, which turned out to include lining up continued >>
wait staff and arming them with potholders and serving spoons, keeping an eye on the supply of butter, coffee, and cream, and generally keeping the customers happy. “I have no idea how I got the job,” says Patty (though Marcia doesn’t share her uncertainty: “Her mother volunteered her—that’s how!”). But, as Patty remembers it, “It was just one of those things: they called me up and said, ‘We need you to take over a table,’ and I said, ‘Okay, I guess.’ And now I’m one of the drones.” Another group of “drones” is working over at Burney’s farm for the couple of hours leading up to the bake. There, in two waterfilled boats, they’re cleaning the clams—carefully separating out the “floaters” and those with badly-cracked shells—because, as everyone in this community has heard a thousand times (and I’ve tracked the original source of this back to the Gifford clan, at least as early as 1918), “One dead clam can spoil the whole bake.” And nobody disputes the idea that the care they take is a huge part of what keeps ticket holders singing those molluscan praises: “Best ever!” you’ll hear them say of the clams, year after year after year. The delivery of the cleaned clams to the grove signals that “rake out” is about to begin. A highlight of the Allen’s Neck Clambake for the people who put it on, this is a surprisingly dramatic procedure (neither common among other bakes, nor, strictly speaking, necessary), in which some 20 of the men, dressed in heavy farm jackets and firemen’s gear, step into the blisteringly-hot fire and remove the last of the smoldering wood and its embers, an exercise requiring no small amount of courage. In place of the wood, the men rebuild a rectangle of white-hot rocks, which they cover with mounds of seaweed, and which, in turn, quickly produces great clouds of steam. On top of the weed, they stack rack after wooden rack of the different foods and cover them all with tarps, using a last bit of rockweed to seal up what is now, essentially, a giant steam oven. In no time, workers are back at their posts, tending to the last of their chores as the guests arrive in growing numbers and the annual reunions ensue. Folks move about, shopping for handmade gifts and home-baked goodies amidst genial talk and much laughter. And, then—abruptly—at about a quarter to one, it all falls still, as 700 plus people gather into a large circle, close their eyes, and bow their heads. The minister of this Quaker congregation, Peter Crysdale, balances above them on one of the rough-hewn tables, saying a prayer over the meal that’s about to be shared. “Let the gratitude rise…for friendship given and received…for celebrations…for health…our daily needs…family…possibilities, large and small.” The wind rustles through the trees as everyone strains to hear more. “Then, wait a little, and a deeper gratitude 30 | edible south shore fall 2009
swells in us like a song.” Then a moment of silence for those members of the community recently departed. The focus shifts next to the huge mound in the corner of the grove, with its streams of smoke rising from the edges of the tarps that cover it. Burney steps toward this sleeping dragon, flips back some of the tarps at the corner, thrusts his hand into the smoke, and pulls it back out again, holding a solitary clam. He presents it to Raymond, who opens the shell, lifts it to his lips, and—as the crowd waits expectantly—swallows it in a single gulp. “That’ll do,” he says. No one moves. “It’s good,” he proclaims more audibly, and the crowd bursts into spontaneous applause. Then everyone begins to move: servers toward the mound, brandishing dishtowels and potholders, and diners rushing to their seats to prepare for the edible tsunami coming their way. In short order, 26 bushels of clams (and 50 pounds of melted butter in pitchers) will appear at the tables, along with 180 pounds of foil-wrapped squares of fish and 230 pounds of sausage served in penny-candy brown bags, 150 pounds of sweet potatoes and the same amount of boiled onions, 75 dozen ears of corn, 16 large pans of dressing, and 25 loaves’ worth of brown bread. For dessert, there are 20 large watermelons, cut into glistening ruby chunks, and—just to make sure that this lily is completely gilded—close to 800 slices of homemade pie. It’s a lot to chew on, I know—physically and metaphorically—but a really good clambake should always provide at least this much: a sense of tradition, strong family ties, and depth of fellowship. As to the stunning choreography and seemingly flawless flow of the Allen’s Neck Clambake, well, there’s nothing like a hundred years of practice to help folks get a thing right.
Please Note: Tickets to many traditional bakes may be hard to come by as they are all but “willed” to children and grandchildren. However if you happen to see for a flyer posted at a local business announcing a bake, contact them right away; you may be lucky enough to score tickets. If not, there’s always next year!
Start Your Own Tradition:
Francis Farm Serving traditional clambakes at their beautiful 60-acre farm since 1890. 27 Francis Farm Rd. Rehoboth, MA, 02769 (508) 252-3212 www.francisfarm.net
Or have the clambake come to you: New England Clam Jams 775 Horseneck Rd Westport MA 02790 (508) 636-5227 www.neclamjams.com
Allen’s Neck Brown Bread Clambake volunteers steam their brown breads at home to contribute to the bake. This recipe, very interesting in its substitution of oatmeal for the traditional rye meal, is from the late Marjorie Macomber of Acushnet. Folklorist Kathy Neustadt recorded this recipe while she was compiling her definitive book, Clambake: A History and Celebration of an American Tradition (University of Massachusetts Press, 1992). It is used here with her permission.
Saturday October 3 10am-4pm 508 866-3654
www.flaxpondfarms.com Flax Pond Farms • 58 Pond Street • Carver, MA 02330
One 46-ounce tomato juice can works well with this volume of batter, as do four 13-ounce coconut milk cans, coffee cans or a whole flock of baking powder tins (cute!). Just fill up each greased mold to about the two-thirds mark, cover, and steam until the surface looks dry and a wooden skewer poked into the bread emerges clean.
• ¾ cup molasses
• 1½ cup milk (or water)
• 1½ cups (6 ounces) all-purpose flour
• 1 teaspoon baking powder
• ¼ teaspoon salt
• 1 cup (4½ ounces) jonnycake meal (or yellow corn meal)
• 1 cup (3½ ounces) rolled oats
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(Dry run: to be sure you have enough room for the molds, set up a large steaming pot with a rack and insert the can or cans you intend to use before you start cooking.) Grease the insides of the cans. Set the pot on to boil with at least an inch of water, more if you have clearance.
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Stir together the molasses and milk (or water).
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Thoroughly combine the dry ingredients. Add to the molasses mixture, stirring until just incorporated. Pour into molds, twothirds full.
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Cover tops of molds with foil, flattening it against the outsides of the cans. Carefully lower cans onto steaming rack. (Use oven mitts—steam can cause serious burns!) Remember to check the water level after half an hour. The breads will take from 45 minutes to 80 minutes, depending on their size. When steamed through, the breads should be removed and set on a rack to cool a bit. Usually, they can be coaxed out of their cans with a long thin knife. Occasionally, you may need to wield a can opener, remove the bottom of the can, and then shove through a recalcitrant loaf. Makes 16 portions.
a WamPanoaG bake
by linda Coombs
fresh ingredients fresh air fresh food
Monday - Thursday 7am - 8pm Friday & Saturday 7am -8:30pm
L SUNDAY CLOSED
778 Main Road Westport, Massachusetts
ong characterized as a traditional New England method of steam-cooking seafood, the clambake derives from a way that the ancient Wampanoag (and other coastal indigenous peoples) prepared shellfish and other accompanying foods. In centuries past, bakes were done right on the beach. Everything needed for the bake was right there: the clams, quahogs, or other shellfish or fish, plus the rockweed and the stones used to build the bake. A pit would be dug and lined with stones. A fire was set in the pit, burning for two to three or more hours to heat the rocks to the point of being red-hot. The ashes were then brushed away, and people worked quickly to maximize the heat of the stones. A thick layer of rockweed was spread over the stones. Rockweed is a type of seaweed with fronds that end in small bubbles, each holding a tiny bit of sea water, which creates the steam that cooks the food and gives it its wonderful flavor. The fish, shellfish, and vegetables were then placed on the seaweed and covered over with another layer. This might then be covered with a mat to help hold in the steam and concentrate it to more quickly cook the meal. Clambakes on the beach made cleanup easy, as the tides reclaimed the rocks and seaweed and filled the pit back in, leaving no evidence of the feast that took place. In the present day, Wampanoag people still practice this ancient way of cooking. A few changes have been made to the method and some new foods added to the menu. Today, pickup trucks allow people to carry rocks and loads of seaweed to places that are distant from the shore, where bakes are carried out on the flat ground. Two or three layers of rocks are set out in a rectangle of approximately six feet by six feet. Just as in the ancient bakes, a fire is built on top of the rocks for several hours to get them
32 | edible south shore fall 2009
At the Wamponoag bake, clams, mussels, and lobsters rest on a tarp after being removed from the layers of steaming rockweed and red-hot stones.
red-hot. When this is accomplished, the ashes are swept away, and the layers of rockweed are quickly spread over the stones.
Photos courtesy of Plimoth Plantation
Today the traditional clams and corn are joined by lobster and white potato, sweet potato, onion, a piece of haddock or bluefish wrapped in foil, a hot dog, and a piece of linguica. All the vegetables, fish, and meats are wrapped up together in a cheesecloth bundle, which, along with opened cans of brown bread, are placed on the steaming seaweed. Additional layers completely cover the food. A wet sheet is placed over the top. A large tarp is stretched over the whole bake, its edges held down with more seaweed or the wet burlap bags used to collect the seaweed. Serving a bake today is an assembly line production. While the bake itself is cooking, bowls of quahog chowder start off the meal. After the bake is opened, people go through a line to receive all the parts of the dinner. First is the lobster, then the steamed clams are piled on the plate. Next, the diner receives the bundle of vegetables, fish, and meat. Everyone gets small cups of clam broth and melted butter in which to dunk the lobster meat and clams. (Or potatoes or whatever you want.) There is always the option of the diet bake, where the diner does not partake of the butter! The final touch is an ice-cold slice of watermelon, which is the perfect thing at the end of such an incredible meal. The Mashpee Wampanoag people on Cape Cod put on a clambake for the public at their annual Powwow, held every 4th of July weekend. This is a rare opportunity to enjoy a truly indigenous meal that is an ancient and ongoing tradition. Mark your calendars for next year; you will enjoy the whole experience, and guaranteed you won’t leave hungry!
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the World is our oyster, or is it a clam? by s. terry Vandewater
f the world is our oyster, then southeastern Massachusetts is the epicenter. And not just for oysters, but for a variety of bivalve mollusks, including clams and mussels. Such an aquatic abundance, all with different names, can cause some confusion. What’s the difference between a Cherrystone and a Sweet Petite, or an Ipswich clam and a blue mussel? I queried some of my friends, New Englanders to be specific, and they too were a bit perplexed. Let’s just say that more than 50% thought a cherrystone was an oyster. I was not alone! So how do we clear up this confusion? And how do we make it easy?
The brittle shells of “steamer” clams or “Ipswich” clams never close completely around their protruding siphon. Fantastic deepfried as well as steamed (in a clambake or just on the stove), softshelled clams are not typically eaten raw.
There are 1.2 million acres of shellfish beds in Massachusetts alone. For our purposes, I will refer to species specific to southeastern Massachusetts. Briefly, clams, oysters, and mussels are all bivalve aquatic mollusks, meaning they have hinged, two-sided symmetrical shells with each side of the shell having a valve.
Mussels are the simplest to understand. In Southeastern Massachusetts, there is one common species, the blue mussel. Its only variable is in the color of the meat––whitish-beige is a female and orange is male.
All clams use siphons to filter water for nutrients. Our Northern Quahog sports a short siphon that can be entirely enclosed within the clam’s hard shell. Littlenecks, cherrystones and the quahog or chowder clam are all Northern Quahogs of different ages, hence sizes. Ocean Quahogs are a separate species and are primarily sold to manufacturers for chowder, canned minced clams, and breaded clam strips. 34 | edible south shore fall 2009
Oysters in our region are generally from one species, but varietals are named for their waters of origin. For example, Wellfleet oysters are from Wellfleet Harbor. Because the waters in the various locales possess different attributes––more salty or more seaweedy, for example––the taste of an oyster will closely match its aquatic environs.
So armed with a little bit of information, a dangerous thing for sure, I’ve compiled the following information to help my fellow mollusk-challenged brethren. Hopefully, a better-educated consumer will become an enthusiastic ambassador to promote our very own fruits of the sea.
oysters Crassostrea virginica
clams hardShell clam Mercenaria mercenaria
Habitat: Cotuit Harbor, Cape Cod Appearance: Medium to large, jade colored shell Flavor: Plump and meaty, mildly salty, zesty
Habitat: West End Pond, Cuttyhunk; Buzzards Bay Appearance: (3-3 ½”) Small to medium, uniformly shaped Flavor: Crisp and briny
Habitat: Duxbury Bay Appearance: Plain white, large shell with small meat, plump Flavor: Firm, sweet and slightly nutty, distinctive briny finish
Habitat: Katama Bay, Martha’s Vineyard Appearance: Deep cups (3-3½”), bleached shells Flavor: Delicate, sweet with salty finish
Habitat: Martha’s Vineyard Appearance: Classic oyster shape, fat Flavor: Sweet, velvety, salty
(10-12 pieces per pound) Habitat: Buzzards Bay, Cape Cod Bay, Nantucket Sound Appearance: Smallest of quahogs, less than 2” in diameter; 1” hinge; thick grey shell, the most tender of the hard shell clams Flavor: delicate, slightly chewy, sweetest of the clams, buttery Best served: On the half shell, grilled, steamed
(3-5 pieces per pound) Habitat: Buzzards Bay, Cape Cod Bay, Nantucket Sound Appearance: Middle-sized quahogs, 2-3” in diameter; 2” hinge, thick grey shell Flavor: Firmer than little necks, briny, more intense flavor Best Served: On the half shell, steamed, grilled, chowders, clams casino
QUAHOGS aka “Chowder Clams”
(1-2 pieces per pound) Habitat: Buzzards Bay, Cape Cod Bay, Nantucket Sound Appearance: At least 3” in diameter, 2 ½” hinge, thick grey shell with a tinge of purple on the inside Flavor: Chewiest of quahogs, full of flavor Best Served: Chowder, clam sauce, stuffed quahogs, slow cook to tenderize, chopped, diced
Habitat: Plymouth Harbor, wild Appearance: Goosefoot pattern on shell Flavor: Chewy, clean, very briny,
STEAMERS aka “Ipswich Clams”
Habitat: Katama Bay, Martha’s Vineyard Flavor: Firm white meat, salty
Habitat: Cape Cod Bay Appearance: Oval shaped, small to medium sized, deep cups Flavor: Very plump, firm, hearty, juicy, lemony, strong brininess, clean finish
Habitat: Cape Cod Bay, Nantucket Sound Appearance: Green top, brown and white on bottom, whitish-pink meat, deep cups (3”) Flavor: Meaty, mildly sweet, very salty, briny Oysters are best served: Raw or gently cooked. Delicious in oyster stew or briefly broiled under a protective sauce, as in Oysters Rockefeller.
Habitat: Buzzards Bay, Cape Cod Bay, Massachusetts Bay Appearance: Brittle shells that require careful handling Flavor: Tender, sweet Best served: Steamed, fried, stew, clam-baked, (remember to remove casing of siphon/neck)
Mussels BLUE MUSSELS Mytilus edulis
Habitat: Buzzards Bay, Cape Cod Bay, Rhode Island Sound Appearance: 2-4”, oval in shape; colors range from blue, purple, black, brown; inside is a pearly, iridescent white; has a beard; meat ranges from a yellow to orange with a black rim Flavor: Sweet; rich; somewhat smoky Best served: Steamed, stuffed
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ou did it! You planted a vegetable garden this season and for the past three months you’ve enjoyed the luxury of stepping out your back door to gather the freshest salad ingredients and produce for your dinner table. But now, with cooler weather upon us, you may be wondering how you can extend the harvest season so you can continue to enjoy your bounty for as long as possible. The good news is that fall weather is terrific for a number of cool season crops, including lettuces, spinach, parsley, radishes, broccoli, cauliflower, carrots, beets, parsnips, kale, and collards, as these all can flirt with light frosts without damage. If you did your homework and planned ahead, you learned that by sowing these seeds by early August the young plants would have time to get established and provide a fall crop of fresh greens in September, and broccoli, cauliflower, brussels sprouts, and kale into October and November. The root crops—carrots, beets, and parsnips— actually get sweeter once the cold sets in and can be harvested until the ground is too frozen to dig in December. In addition to a fall seeding, there are a few other tricks of the trade that can help you extend the fall season. The first is floating row cover, which is a lightweight blanket that allows light transmission yet offers several degrees of frost protection when an unseasonable cold snap hits. The lightweight fabric is made of spunbonded polypropylene and is sold in various lengths and widths. You can purchase special support hoops to suspend the fabric over your crop rows or rig up your own supports by bending wire or supple bamboo stems over your vegetable beds. Johnny’s Select Seeds (www.johnnyseeds.com) offers a variety of grades and sizes of these row covers. This fabric is reusable for
36 | edible south shore fall 2009
or if it appears the roots are becoming desiccated, spritz them with fresh water to humidify. Another crop that doesn’t require much processing to store and keeps well for several months is winter squash. Be sure that the fruit is mature before harvesting. Mature butternut, acorn, and Hubbard squash have very hard skins that cannot be easily punctured with your thumbnail. You should first cure squash and pumpkins for 10 to 20 days in a space that is warm (between 80 to 85 degrees) with good ventilation. (An attic is often a good choice.) Once winter squash is cured, the key to successful storage is to find a place that remains cool (50 degrees), dry, and well ventilated. Do not stack squash in a box or container.
a couple of seasons and is also useful as a protective insect pest barrier on young crops during the spring and summer months. A low-tech way to insulate root crops is to pile a protective mulch of leaves or hay over their crowns, which insulates the earth from deep freezes. When you have need for some fresh carrots, beets, or parsnips, simply pull back the layer of mulch and dig out what you need. Remember to pile back the mulch to continue the insulating protection. Usually by late December, a permanent winter freeze is imminent, and it’s time to dig and store what’s left, or pile an even thicker mulch layer over the crowns for an early spring harvest. Finally, food storage and processing techniques offer additional options for preserving your harvest. In days gone by, families would store root crops such as potatoes, carrots, and turnips in a root cellar. A root cellar often was a simple cavity dug into the earth with a small timber frame overhead. It would offer a cool, humid, dark place with temperatures that hovered between 35 and 40 degrees in the winter months. Most of us do not have a root cellar available, but sometimes we can replicate the concept in our basements or garages, if these spaces offer the same cool, dark, humid qualities. Before storing root vegetables, rinse off any caked-on soil and pack them in well-ventilated boxes or buckets (some folks layer the roots in clean sand). Do not store blemished roots; use them right away instead. Check your stored crops regularly to make sure that they are not getting moldy or shriveling from being too dry. Immediately remove any crops that show rot,
Don’t forget that drying or freezing fresh herbs for winter use is quick and easy. Harvest leafy herbs such as oregano, rosemary, thyme, and tarragon on a warm afternoon when the foliage is dry. It is best to select stems that aren’t trying to flower. For dry storage, secure the herbs in bunches with an elastic band or string and hang them in a cool, dark, well-ventilated spot. Once herbs are fully dry, remove the leaves and store them in sealed bags or little bottles. Freezing is a good option for capturing the essence of fragrant herbs like basil. Chop and puree the basil with a little water and freeze the puree in ice cube trays. Remove the cubes from trays and store them in labeled freezer bags. The big question for many of us is what to do when the forecast predicts night temps in the mid 20s and there’s no blanket warm enough to keep all those tomatoes, peppers, and cucumbers from certain ruin. In this situation, canning is a great option that many of us are unnecessarily fearful of trying. A thoroughly entertaining and inspiring new book by Eugenia Bone, Well-Preserved (Clarkson Potter, 2009), works through all the barriers, physical and mental, that might be preventing any food-lover from making the most of a surplus. If a small batch of refrigerator pickles is more your speed, pick up Quick Pickles: Easy Recipes for Big Flavor, by Chris Schlesinger, John Willoughby, and Dan George (Chronicle, 2001). With inventive recipes and simple techniques worked out in Westport, the pickles in this book use local produce and a lot of imagination. From a fall seeding to garden protection techniques to storage and canning methods, there are plenty of resources out there to help grow the gardening season and push back the winter as long as possible.
SeriouS Fun at the marShField Fair by Paula Marcoux
ook beyond the midway, with its whirling rides and fryo-lator treats, and the Marshfield Fair offers a trove of interest and fun connected to our regional farming and gardening traditions. Classic Grange-style buildings (painted white with deep green trim, of course) support a variety of exhibits and competitions bound to appeal to anyone who enjoys learning how food production has endured even within the heart of South Shore suburbia. Some of the fair’s core attractions go way back, as described by Lysander Salmon Richards in his 1901 History Of Marshfield: “…not only the people out of town, but the residents of the town come together, not having met since the last fair, a year before, and they chat, laugh and enjoy a good social time. It is a gala day for the country around.” (Perhaps it should be pointed out that the Marshfield Fair has grown quite a bit. With 170,000 attendees expected this year, don’t feel bad if you don’t know everyone there from last year.) Our historian continues, “This, however, is only a part of the attractions. Fruit and vegetables are brought in abundance. The tables in the hall and basement are filled with them, affording a beautiful display, and giving the visitor an opportunity (if a farmer) of comparing his own products with those on exhibition. Then the exhibition of cattle, horses, swine, sheep and poultry attract the eye of all visitors, whether farmers or not, and again a part of the hall is given up to specimens of female industry, art, needlework, bread, butter, cheese, preserves and a floral exhibit. The horse trot, as in all other Agricultural fairs, is a prominent feature of this exhibition, and in the minds of many, perhaps, too prominent in an Agricultural and Horticultural Exhibition for profit.” (The only changes here are that farmers are often enough women today, and that men are likewise allowed 38 | edible south shore fall 2009
to show off their pickling skills. Also, as Richards foreshadows, horse racing is off the docket now.) The Marshfield Agricultural and Horticultural Society—the organizing power behind the fair—has been producing this annual event since its inception right after the Civil War, making it one of the older surviving agricultural fairs in New England. The hard-working and dedicated volunteer directors haven’t strayed too far from the original intent, although it must be admitted that Daniel Webster and friends from the pioneering South Marshfield Farmers’ Club might have wondered how the Demolition Derby fits in…perhaps it falls under the “gala” heading. The last four years have seen the use of the fairground as the venue for the weekly Marshfield Farmers’ Market (Fridays, 2-6 pm), a connection that can only strengthen the fair as it grows into the new era of popular interest in fresh local produce. One of the Society’s directors, Karen Biagini, also serves as the manager of the farmers’ market. She sees a growing consciousness throughout Marshfield, as farmers, town administrators, and the Ag and Hort Society work together to connect consumers and growers. To get the most out of your day at the fair, visit www.marshfieldfair.org for the schedule of events and more. Downloadable entry forms allow you to prepare your own contestant, whether it’s the prettiest tomato or the best blueberry pie. What better way to connect with our region’s farms and farmers past and present? And who know what glory (and prize money!) you may win? And get this: edible South Shore is sponsoring the Best Zucchini Dish Competitions (savory or sweet; adult and youth divisions)—we hear that the competition will be fierce and the judging merciless.
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One of the older agricultural fairs in New England, Marshfield Fair offers a trove of exhibits, venues, and foods for all.
The Marshfield Fair
August 21-30, 2009
edible South Shore’s Blue Ribbon Recommendations: August 21 11 am .........................................................................Ox Pull August 22 9 am-Noon........................................ Giant Pumpkin Contest 2 pm ...........................Organic Gardening with Rick Madden 4 pm Understanding Ecological Landscapes with Scott LaFleur August 25 2 pm.................................................... 4-H Dairy Goat Show August 26 1 pm............................................................ 4-H Swine Show 1-3 pm......................Giant Pumpkin Contest/Youth Division August 27 5:30 pm...................................................4-H Dog Agility Show 6 pm.......................... Plymouth County 4-H Benefit Auction August 28 4 pm.................. Small Fruit Gardening with Dominic Marini August 29 10 am-Noon ..............edible South Shore Z ucchini F estival Cooking Contest 2 pm........................... Organic Gardening with Rick Madden 4 pm......................................................... Organic Land Care Remember to visit www.marshfieldfair.org for any schedule changes.
Farmers Market Produce Plants Crafts Baked Goods Local Foods Live Music Pony Rides Fridays 2pm-6pm June 5- Oct 16
Marshfield Fairgrounds Visit Marshfield Fair: Aug 21 - 30
Sponsored by the Marshfield Agricultural & Horticultural Society
40 | edible south shore fall 2009
feeding the Community
by Kezia Bacon-Bernstein
ou’d like to eat more locally grown food. You know there are plenty of farms in the region, but you’re unsure of what they grow, or where to find them. Driving around searching for farm stands is one option––but there is a more efficient way, right at your fingertips: the Online Farm Guide, produced by the Southeastern Massachusetts Agricultural Partnership (SEMAP). SEMAP is a non-profit organization whose mission is “to ensure that working farms remain a vital and profitable part of the Southeastern Massachusetts landscape both now and into the future.” To meet this goal, they focus on two primary areas: Market Development––creating demand for locally-produced agricultural products; and Business/Technical Assistance––educating and helping local farms and other agricultural enterprises with business-related matters. This approach benefits consumers and farmers alike. For consumers, the Online Farm Guide is a great resource for finding farms, farmstands, farmers’ markets, CSA programs, and pick-your-own venues near you. At this writing there were nearly 1800 farms listed for southeastern Massachusetts. Restaurants, caterers, and stores that are Buy Local members are listed as well. Check it out at: www.semaponline.org, click on the Online Farm Guide link.
All that is local in eastern massachusetts Celebrating the Abundance of Plymouth & Bristol Counties, Season by Season
the story on fresh, local food Member of Edible Communities
Subscribe to edible South Shore, edible Boston and edible Cape Cod today and save! Usually each one-year subscription (4 issues) costs $32. If you purchase a subscription for all three, you pay only $75. A savings of $21.00! To suscribe, go to www.ediblesouthshore.com, www.boston.net or www.ediblecapecod.com or complete the form below and mail it with a check payable to edible South Shore in the amount of $75.00 to: 15 Evergreen Street, Kingston, MA 02364 Name: __________________________________________________ Address: _________________________________________________ City: ________________________ State: _____ Zip Code: __________ e-mail: __________________________________________________
For the farmer, SEMAP provides business resources, a directory of both agricultural and aquacultural service providers, and a variety of courses and workshops on farm business and marketing topics. And their Farms Forever program helps preserve working farmlands as such and supports new and second-generation farmers in our region. SEMAP also gives local farms a more public face––helping to connect them with buyers from area restaurants, catering companies, schools, food processors, and stores. Their “Buy Fresh Buy Local” campaign directs shoppers to “the freshest, most delicious locally grown foods and farm products.” You can support SEMAP’s efforts by becoming a member. SEMAP members receive Buy Local Updates on what’s in season and where to find it, plus tips to make buying local easier and more efficient. Recipes and profiles of new growers and producers are included as well. Members also receive the semi-annual Harvest newsletter, and advance notice for workshops on gardening, agriculture, and local food topics, and other SEMAP events. Southeastern Massachusetts Agricultural Partnership (SEMAP) One State Bog Road East Wareham, MA 02358 Phone (508) 295-2212 x 50 www.semaponline.org Join SEMAP and you will receive a complimentary one-year subscription to edible South Shore. Just forward us a copy of your SEMAP membership confirmation letter and we’ll send the next four issues of edible South Shore directly to your mailbox SS for free. Offer expires October 31, 2009.
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farmers’ Markets Southeastern Massachusetts Farmers’ Markets Attleboro Saturday, 8:00 am - Noon July 11 to October 31 Gilbert Perry Square, Downtown
Fall River Kennedy Park Saturday, 7:30 am - 12:30 pm May to November Kennedy Park
Braintree Saturday, 9:00 am - 1:00 pm June 27 to October 31 Town Hall, Washington Street
Hanover Natural Market Saturday. 9:00 am - 2:00 pm June 6 to October 31 Hanover Mall, Circuit City parking lot
Bridgewater Tuesday, 3:00 pm - 6:30 pm July 21 to October 27 Spring and Broad Streets, Route 18
Hingham Saturday, 10:00 am - 2:00 pm May 23 to November 21 Hingham Bathing Beach parking lot, Route 3A
Brockton Fairgrounds Saturday, 9:00 am - 1:00 pm July 18 to October 30 Brockton Fairgrounds
Hingham (new location) Wednesday, 10 am - 2:00 pm June 10 to Sept 2 Downtown Square
Brockton City Hall Plaza Friday, 10:30 am - 1:30 pm July 3 to October 30 City Hall Plaza
Hull Friday, 3:00 pm - 7:00 pm June 12 to September 11 Nantasket Avenue (Bayside) between Bay and Edgewater
Buzzards Bay Friday, 10:00 am - 2:00 pm July 10 to October 30 70 Main Street Carver Sunday, Noon - 4:00 pm June 14 - October 25 Shurtleff Park, Route 58, across from Town Hall Cohasset Thursday, 2:30 pm - 6:30 pm June 11 to October 8 Cohasset Common, Main St
Mansfield Thursday, 2:00 pm - 6:00 pm July 16 to September 24 Public Parking, 80 North Main Street Marshfield Friday, 2:00 pm - 6:00 pm June 5 to October 16 Marshfield Fairgrounds, Route 3A Middleboro Saturday, 9:00 am - 1:00 pm June 13 to October 31 Route 105, Town Hall Lawn
Dartmouth Friday, 2:00 pm - 6:00pm June 19 to September 11 Rex Field, 351 Elm Street (adjacent to St. Peters Church), Padanaram Village
Milton Thursday, 1 pm - 6 pm June 18 - October 29 Wharf Street Park off Adams Street Milton Village
Duxbury Wednesday, 12:30 pm - 4:30 pm July 1 to October 14 Tarkiln Community Center Grounds, Route 53
New Bedford Brooklawn Park Monday, 2:00 pm - dusk July 6 to October 26 Brooklawn Park, Ashley Boulevard entrance
Fairhaven Sunday, 1:00 pm - 4:00 pm June 21 to October 18 Fairhaven High School, Rt. 6 and Main Street
New Bedford Clasky Common Saturday, 9:00 am - 1:00 pm July 11 to October 24 Pleasant Street between Pearl and Pope Streets
Fall River Ruggles Park Wednesday, 9:00 am - 1:00 pm June to November Ruggles Park
New Bedford Wings Court Thursday, 2:00 pm - dark July 9 to October 29 Wings Court, Union Street, Downtown
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North Easton Tuesday, 2:00 pm - 6:00 pm Saturday, 10:00 am - 2:00 pm May 12 to October 31 261 Main Street, in field across from Sheep Pasture Plymouth Stephens Field Thursday, 2:30 pm - 6:30 pm June 18 to October 29 Stephens Field off 3A near Plymouth Center Plymouth Court Street Saturday, 9:30 am - 1:30 pm June 20 to October 31 Old Courthouse Green, Court Street, Downtown Plymouth Quincy Friday 11:30 am - 5:30 pm June 26 to November 20 John Hancock parking lot (across from the Court House) Quincy Center Rehoboth Sunday, 10:00 am - 2:00 pm June 14 to October 25 Anawan School, 53 Bay State Road Rochester Saturday, 8:00 am - Noon June 13 to October 17 Plumb Corner Market parking lot, Route 105, Rochester Center, Taunton Thursday, Noon - 5:00 pm July 9 to October 29 Town Green Westport Saturday, 8:30 am - 1:00 pm July 11 to September 26 Westport Grange, 870 Main Road Weymouth Saturday, 9 am - 1:00 pm June 27 to October 24 Weymouth Town Hall 75 Middle Street
farmersâ€™ Markets Day
Bridgewater Brockton / Fairgrounds
Brockton / City Hall Plaza
Buzzards Bay / Bourne
Fall River / Ruggles Park Fall River / Kennedy Park
Hingham / Beach
Hingham / Downtown
Milton New Bedford / Brooklawn Park
New Bedford / Clasky Common Thursday
New Bedford / Wings Court North Easton
Plymouth / Stephens Field Saturday
Plymouth / Court Street Friday
Find edible South Shore A.D. MAkEPEACE The world’s largest cranberry grower. 158 Tihonet Road Wareham, MA 02571 (508) 295-1000 www.admakepeace.com AMERICA’S HOMETOWN TAX SERVICE Complete tax preparation and planning. 78 Main Street Kingston, MA 02364 (781) 582-9930 (800) 287-9495 www.hometowntaxservice.com AND SONS DESIGN AND BUILD Design, build, renovate, and restore with an emphasis on recycled and sustainable resources. Licensed and insured. Seth Marois (617) 538-1379 www.andsonbuilders.com ANDERSON FIREPLACE Wood-Fired Ovens for Indoor & Outdoor use. Natural smoke Flavors. Portable, fuel efficient, and affordable. 720 Brockton Avenue Rte. 123 Abington, MA 02351 (800) 472-1717 www.andersonfireplace.com
maGazine at theSe Fine eStabliShmentS
BIONEERS BY THE BAY Connecting for change. October 22-25, 2009 New Bedford, MA www.connectingforchange.org BOSTON U NIVERSITY METROPOLITAN COLLEGE Programs in food, wine, and the arts. (617) 353-9852 www.bu.edu/foodandwine BRADFORD’S MEATSHOP & MORE Unique meat shop specializing in premium quality beef, poultry, pork, lamb, and veal. 644 Washington Street (Rte. 53 - Across from Starland) Hanover, MA 02339 (781) 826-3100 www.bradfordsmeatshop.com BRIDGEWATER FARM SUPPLY CO., INC. Wholesale and retail farm, garden, landscape, and environmental supplies. 1000 Plymouth Street Bridgewater, MA 02324 (508) 697-1995 www.bridgewaterfarm.com
ARTISAN KITCHEN Offering the best in homemade pastries, breads, cupcakes, wedding and specialty cakes. 265 Walnut Plain Road Rochester, MA 02770 (508) 763-4905 www.theartisankitchen.com
BROWN BOAR FARM A family-owned/operated business committed to producing wholesome, naturally raised meat and produce in an environmentally friendly way. Deliveries to Holly Hill Farm. 55 Lamb Hill Road East Wells, VT 05774 (802) 325-2461 www.brownboarfarm.com
AVANT GARDENS Nursery/Greenhouses Classes/Workshops Consultation/Design 710 High Hill Road Dartmouth, MA 02747 (508) 998-8819 www.avantgardensNE.com
COMMONSENSE FOOD MARKET & BLUE BLINDS BAKERY CoMMonsense Food MArket A wholesome food market. 53 Main Street Plymouth, MA 02360 (508) 732-0427 www.commonsensemarket.com
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blue blinds bAkery Artisan Breads, Soups & Teas. Fresh Bakery Fare. 7 North Street Plymouth, MA 02360 (508) 747-0462
FOODIE’S MARKET Offering a selection unsurpassed by ev en t he bi ggest sup ermarkets at competitive prices. Two Locations: • Foodie’s duxbury MArket 46 Depot Street Duxbury, MA 02332 EMPIRE WINE & SPIRITS (781) 934-5544 Fine wine, beer, liquor, cigars, • Foodie’s urbAn MArket lottery. Special orders welcome! . 421 Washington Street Summer Hill Plaza (Stop & South End Shop Plaza) Boston, MA 02118 Route 3A (617) 266-9911 Kingston, MA 02364 www.foodies-urban-market.com (781) 422-9999 www.uncorkedonline.com GO GREEN WEB DIRECTORY An on-line green business directory and community. P.O. Box 388 Marshfield, MA 02050 (877) 304-4493 www.gogreenwebdirectory.com
FARMCOAST Explore New England Farms & Villages www.farmcoast.com FEDELE’S HAND DIPPED CHOCOLATES Small delicious batches are made daily and are always fresh. Anderson Plaza 95 Church Street, Pembroke, MA 02359 (781) 826-0669 Village Landing Marketplace 170 Water Street Plymouth, MA 02360 (508) 746-8907 www.fedelesChocolates.com
FLAX POND FARMS Featuring Arts by the Bog. Sat., Oct. 3, 10am-4pm 58 Pond Street Carver, MA 02330 (508) 866-3654 www.flaxpondfarms.com
GRO SOLAR Mention edible South Shore Get 3 mos FREE Solar Electricity. (800) 374-4494 groSolar.com/SunRun HEALTHY ANIMAL A health food store for pets, offering all-natural and high quality pet products. Town Line Plaza 808 Washington Street Route 53 Pembroke, MA 02359 (781) 826-9760 www.thehealthyanimal.com HEALTHY VETERINARY ALTERNATIVES Acupuncture & Natural Holistic Healing Treatments for Animals. Dr. Mark Russo Kingston Animal Hospital 192 Main Street Kingston, MA 02364 (781) 585-6525 www.healthyveterinaryalternatives.com
HINGHAM FARMERS MARKET Two Locations: • Hingham Bathing Beach (Route 3A) Saturdays, 10 am - 2 pm
MORRISON’S HOME AND GARDEN Serving the region’s agricultural community for over 35 years— from professional grower to the homeowner. 90 Long Pond Road Plymouth, MA 02360 (508) 746-0970
• In the Square (between North and South St) Wednesdays, 10 am - 2 pm www.morrisonshomeandgarden.com www.hinghamfarmersmarket.org HISTORIC O’NEIL FARM Family Farm Day! Sat., Oct 3, 11am-3pm 146 Winter Street Duxbury, MA 02332 www.historiconeilfarm.org HOLISTIC & REALISTIC HEALTH & WELLNESS A realistic approach to health & happiness. Noelle Armstrong (508) 245-9716 (508) 697-9824 www.holisticandrealistic.com MARGUERITE’S Fresh ingredients, fresh air, fresh food. 778 Main Road Westport, MA 02790 (508) 636-3040 www.margueritesrestaurant.com MARSHFIELD FARMERS’ MARKET Marshfield Fairgrounds Marshfield, MA 02050 (781) 834-6629 www.marshfieldfair.org MARTHA’S STONE SOUP From Homestyle to Haute Cuisine—where 90% or more of all ingredients are certified organic and locally sourced. 517 Old Sandwich Road Plymouth, MA 02360 (508) 224-8900 www.marthasstonesoup.com
NORTHEAST FAMILY FARM Creating a supply chain between t he fa rmer a nd t he chef . Sustainably raised lamb, pork, beef, poultry, cheeses, produce. (800) 777-2648 www.northeastfamilyfarms.com PILLSBURY FLORIST Full service florist and custom specialty food baskets. Delivery available. Two Locations: • 685 N.Bedford Street Route 18 East Bridgewater, MA 02333 (508) 378-8141 • 506 N. Elm Street West Bridgewater, MA 02379 (508) 583-6587 www.pillsburygourmet.com PLATO’S HARVEST Community supported organic farm featuring produce, pork, eggs, and poultry. 170 Fuller Street Middleborough, MA 02346 (508) 315-9429 platosharvest.wordpress.com PLIMOTH PLANTATION & CINEMA Satisfy your craving for cultural cuisine, first-run films, worldclass living history. 137 Warren Avenue Plymouth, MA 02360 (508) 746-1622 www.plimoth.org
PLYMOUTH FARMERS’ MARKET Two Locations: • Stephens’ Field (Route 3A) Thursdays, 2:30 pm - 6:30 pm • Old Courthouse Green Court Street Plymouth Center Saturdays, 9:30 am - 3:30 pm (508) 732-9962 www.plymouthfarmersmarket.org SAUCHUCK FARM Farmstand open 9am until 6pm 53 Palmer Road (Route 58) Plympton, MA 02367 (781) 585-1522 www.sauchukfarm.net SEMAP Southeastern Massachusetts Agricultural Partnership One State Bog Road East Wareham, MA 02538 (508) 295-2212 x50 www.semaponline.org
THANKSGIVING CELEBRATION & NE FOOD FESTIVAL (508) 746-1818 www.usathanksgiving.com THE EDIBLE YARD Providing support, education and consultation to all who wish to have fresh, local and sustainable food. (781) 987-4096 www.theedibleyard.com THE MARKET AT PINEHILLS At The Market, we proudly support local businesses. Life is Delicious! 6 Purchase Street Plymouth, MA 02360 (508) 209-0000 www.themarketpinehills.com
WEYMOUTH BANK Your Community Bank. Keeping it Local! 744 Broad Street, STRAWBERRY FAIR Weymouth, MA 02189 RESTAURANT (781) 337-8000 Olde-Fashioned Goodness served 151 Columbian Street in a charming New England Weymouth, MA 02190 farmhouse. (781) 337-8000 14 Pond Street 83 Summer Street Norwell, MA 02061 Kingston, MA 02364 (781) 878-7878 (781) 585-1000 www.WeymouthBank.com www.thestrawberryfair.com SUGAR PLUM BAKERY An Old-Fashioned Bakery with a twist! Custom Cakes & Cookies! Kids Birthday Parties! Rte. 3A 161 Summer Street Kingston, MA 02364 (781) 585-PLUM (7586)
WHOLE FOODS MARKET Selling the highest-quality natural & organic food and products. 94 Derby Street Hingham, MA 02043 (781) 741-8050 www.wholefoodsmarket.com
THAI HERITAGE COMPANY Fruit & Vegetable Carving Folk Art. Weddings, Parties, Gifts, Demonstrations, and Classes. 9 Alec Lane Plymouth, MA 02360 (508) 830-0361 www.thaifruitcarving.com
WORKING WATERFRONT FESTIVAL Port of New Bedford New Bedford, MA 02743 www.workingwaterfrontfestival.org
a Note to our readers:
The invaluable support of these trusted resources helps to sustain and grow edible South Shore. Please endeavor to support them.
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Massachusetts-Grown Produce Availability Calendar JA
Apples Blueberries Cantaloupes Cranberries Peaches Pears Raspberries Strawberries Watermelon Arugula Asparagus Beets Bok choy Broccoli Cabbage Carrots Cauliflower Celery Chard Corn-on-the-cob Cucumbers Eggplant Garlic Green beans Greens, salad Leeks Lettuce Mung beans Mushrooms, shiitake Onions Peas, green and snap Peppers Potatoes, baking Potatoes, redskin Pumpkins Radishes Scallions Spinach Sprouts Squash, acorn, green Squash, butternut Squash, summer Squash, winter Tomatoes Tomatoes, cherry Turnips Zucchini Massachusetts Department of Agricultural Resources Bureau of Markets 617-626-1720 www.mass.gov/agr/massgrown/
B M E E V TO C O E N D