Welcome Thanks for buying an Avanti and welcome to a great riding experience for women. Rather than speculate on what we ‘think’ is relevant to women riders and what you need, we decided to go direct to the source, ask questions and listen to the answers. So we empowered a group of women who ride different kinds of bikes to advise us on how we can create a better riding experience for women. Through focus groups, discussion, experimentation and evaluation we’ve garnered some pretty sharp insights into what women need to ride most efficiently and most comfortably - but with an appropriate amount of style. Our designers and engineers have taken the insights and designed frames with specific geometry for women, developed graphics and colours that appeal to women and integrated components specifically suited for women. And the outcome is bikes that are simply superior for you to ride. Whether you ride to the shops, do trails with your mates or race to the finish line we’ve developed a specific bike which is ergonomically and aesthetically excellent. For you it means we’ve done all the research, thinking and development so you can just relax and ride. Our lifetime warranty supports the confidence we have in the quality of Avanti bicyles. In this guide you’ll find some useful information about your shiny new bike, how it works and how to look after it. We know you’ll be keen to get riding but take some time to read the guide first - especially the safety warnings which can help you avoid injury. Trust us, it’ll be worth it. We recommend you keep the manual handy after the first read too, as it’s a useful reference tool. If you need help at any time, please get in touch with your Avanti Dealer who will be happy to assist. A list of Avanti dealers can be found on avantibikes.com.
It is important for you, or any rider of the bicycle, to read this manual before your first ride – even if you are an experienced cyclist.
Let’s go riding!
3 General Warning and Safety Advice 4 The Parts of Your Bike 6 H ow the Parts of Your Bike Work - Your Wheels and Tyres - Your Bike Suspension - Your Brakes - Your Gears - Your Cables - Clipless Pedals
General Warning and Safety Advice: Cycling can sometimes be a hazardous activity even under the best of circumstances. Proper maintenance of your bike is your responsibility as it helps reduce the risk of injury. This manual contains many “Warnings” and “Cautions” which highlight the importance of inspecting and maintaining your bike that you should pay particular attention to. Even if you’ve been riding a bike all your life, you probably need to refresh your riding knowledge. Why? Because bikes are going through some pretty dramatic changes in technology which affect function, handling, comfort, performance and safety. It is compulsory to wear a safety standards approved helmet while cycling.
21 Fitting Your Bike 25 Staying Safe - Safety Equipment - The Sixty Second Pre Ride Safety Check - Tips for Safe Riding - Wet Weather Riding - Night Riding
29 Puncture Repairs 33 Looking After Your Bike - Break in Period - Bike Adjustment - Cleaning - Lubricants - Storage - Security
We recommend you use only authorised components or accessories to ensure your safety.
Quick Release: Proper operation of the quick release is essential to safe riding. Check the quick release before every ride and make sure it is properly secured. If it is not properly secured, the front wheel may wobble or disengage from the bike, which may result in serious injury. If you don’t fully understand the quick release operation, see your Avanti Dealer.
Carbon Crash Replacement Policy: Carbon has unique qualities that enable it to be light and strong in a variety of riding conditions. However, in the case of a crash, collision or general impact where the force is absorbed by your carbon frame and/ or components we highly recommend you replace the frame or components concerned even if there is no sign of damage. At the very least your bike should be inspected by a qualified bicycle technician at an Avanti dealer. Avanti has a carbon crash replacement programme in place that subsidises replacement costs in a crash or collision situation. To benefit from this programme or to learn more please contact your Avanti dealer.
39 How to Avoid Sore Body Parts 40 What to Wear 42 Going Riding - What to Take - Riding Tips for Beginners
45 Travelling With Your Bike 46 Your Avanti Dealer 47 Warranty 50 Avanti Bike Service Plan www.avantibikes.com
The Parts of Your Bike
The Parts of Your Bike
Seat Post Seat Post Clamp Brake Cable Rear Brake
Shifter Brake Lever
Head Tube Front Brake
Seat Post Clamp Frame
Seat Tube Down Tube
Down Tube Tyre
Hub Front Brake
Crank Arm Chainring
How the Parts Work
How the Parts of Your Bike Work
Warning: Never inflate a tyre beyond the maximum pressure marked on the tyre’s side wall. Exceeding this pressure can blow the tyre off the rim, causing possible damage to the bike and injury to the rider and bystanders. The best way to inflate a bike tyre to the correct pressure is with a bike pump. Your Avanti Dealer can help you select an appropriate pump.
Your Wheels and Tyres Wheel Inspection: The condition of the wheels and their relationship to your brakes performance are very important. The best maintenance for a wheel is preventive maintenance. If you are aware of the things that can go wrong, you may be able to stop trouble before it happens. Watch for these potential problems. • Dirty or greasy rims can render your brakes ineffective. Do not clean rims with solvent. This can leave an oily film. Wipe your rims with a clean rag or wash them with soap and water, rinse and let them air dry. Do not ride while wet. • When lubricating your bike, be sure not to get oil on the braking surfaces. • Bike wheels must withstand great force and weight. Spokes need to be tightened to the correct tension of your wheels to be both round and centred within the bike frame. Because wheel truing is a complicated procedure, we recommend that you take your bike to your local Avanti Dealer.
Caution: Gas station air hoses move a large volume of air very rapidly, so will raise the pressure in your tyre very rapidly. To avoid over inflation using a gas station air hose, put air into your tyre in short, spaced bursts.
Tyres: • Bike tyres are available in many designs and specifications, ranging from general purpose designs to tyres designed to perform best under very specific weather or terrain conditions. Your bike has been equipped with tyres which the manufacturer felt were the best balance of performance and value for the use for which the bike was intended. Once you’ve gained experience with your new bike and feel that a different tyre might better suit your riding needs, your Avanti Dealer can help you select the most appropriate design. • The size, pressure rating and, on some high performance tyres, the specific recommended use are marked on the side wall of the tyre (see fig. 1). The part of this information which is most important to you is tyre pressure.
Please note: PSI pressure is marked on the tyre. It can be converted to kPa using the following table:
Tips on Tyre Pressure: • Tyre pressure is given either as maximum pressure or as a pressure range. How a tyre performs under different terrain or weather conditions depends largely on tyre pressure. • Inflating the tyre to near its recommended maximum pressure gives the lowest rolling resistance, but also produces the harshest ride. High pressures work best on smooth surfaces such as hardpack dirt, tarseal and pavement. • Low pressures, at the bottom of the recommended pressure range, give the best performance on loose surfaces such as deep dry sand. • Tyre pressure which is too low for your weight and the riding conditions can cause a puncture of the tube, by allowing the tyre to deform sufficiently to pinch the inner tube between the rim and the riding surface. • Ask your Avanti Dealer to recommend the best tyre pressure for the kind of riding you will most often do and have them inflate your tyres to that pressure. Then, check inflation so you’ll know how correctly inflated tyres should look and feel. Some tyres may need to be brought up to pressure every week or two. Note: Some special high performance tyres have unidirectional treads: their tread pattern is designed to work better in one direction than in the other. The side wall marking of a unidirectional tyre will have an arrow showing the correct rotation direction. If your bike has unidirectional tyres, be sure they are mounted to rotate in the correct direction.
Warning: Riding with an improperly adjusted wheel quick release can allow the wheel to wobble or disengage from the bike, causing damage to the bike and serious injury to you. Therefore, if you arenâ€™t familiar with the operation of quick release wheels it is essential that you: 1. Ask your Avanti Dealer to help you make sure you know how to install and remove your wheels safely. 2. Understand and apply the correct technique for clamping your wheel in place with a quick release. 3. Each time, before you ride the bike, check that the wheel is securely clamped.
A. Removing a Quick Release front wheel: 1) Open up the brake shoes 2) Rotate the wheel quick release lever from the locked or CLOSED position to the OPEN position (fig.2). 3) If your front fork does not have a secondary retention device, go to step 5. 4) If your front fork has a clip on type secondary retention device, disengage it. 5) If your front fork has an integral secondary retention device, loosen the tension adjusting nut about six full turns. 6) Raise the front wheel a few centimetres off the ground and tap the top of the wheel with the palm of your hand to knock the wheel out of the front fork.
B. Installing a Quick Release front wheel:
1) R otate the quick release lever so that it curves away from the wheel (fig. 3B). This is the OPEN position. 2) With steering fork facing forward, insert the wheel between the fork blades so the axle seats firmly at the top of the slots which are at the tips of fork blades. The quick release lever should be on the left side of the bike (fig. 2). If your bike has a clip on type secondary retention device, engage it. 3) Holding the quick-release lever in the OPEN position with your right hand, tighten the tension adjusting nut with your left hand until it is finger tight against the fork dropout (fig. 3). 4) While pushing the wheel firmly to the top of the slots in the fork dropouts and at the same time centering the wheel rim in the fork, rotate the quick release lever upwards and push it into the CLOSED position (figs. 2 and 3A). The lever should be parallel to the fork blade and curved toward the wheel.
How the Parts Work
How To Remove and Install Your Quick Release Wheels
Quick release Cam
Caution: If you can fully close the quick release without wrapping your fingers around the fork blade for leverage, and the lever does not leave a clear imprint in the palm of your hand, the tension is insufficient. Open the lever, turn the tension adjusting nut clockwise a quarter turn, and then try again. 5) If the lever cannot be pushed all the way to a position parallel to the fork blade, return the lever to the OPEN position. Then turn the tension adjusting nut counterclockwise one quarter turn and try tightening the lever again. Close the brake shoes, then spin the wheel to make sure it is centred in the frame and clears the brake shoes.
Wheel in rear dropout
Warning: Secondary retention devices are not a substitute for correct quick release adjustment. Failure to properly adjust the quick release mechanism can cause the wheel to wobble or disengage, which could result in serious injury.
Turn Tension adjusting nut to adjust clamping force
C. Removing a Quick Release rear wheel:
Quick release Cam
1) Open up the brake shoes. 2) Shift the rear derailleur to the outermost gear (the smallest, rear sprocket) and pull the derailleur body back with your right hand. 3) Rotate the quick-release lever to the OPEN position (fig. 3B) 4) Lift the rear wheel off the ground a few centimetres and with the derailleur still pulled back, push the wheel forward and down until it comes out of the rear dropouts.
How the Parts Work
D. Installing a Quick Release rear wheel: 1) Shift the rear derailleur to its outermost position and pull the derailleur body back with your right hand. 2) Rotate the quick release lever to the OPEN position (see fig. 3A). The levers should be on the side of the wheel opposite the derailleur and freewheel sprockets. 3) Put the chain on top of the smallest freewheel sprocket. Then, insert the wheel into the frame dropouts and pull it all the way into the dropouts (fig. 4). 4) Tighten the adjusting nut until it is finger tight against the frame dropout; then rotate the lever toward the front of the bike until it is parallel to the frames chainstay or seatstay tube and is curved toward the wheel (fig. 3A and 4).
Warning: If you can fully close the quick release without wrapping your fingers around the chainstay or seatstay for leverage and the lever does not leave a clear imprint in the palm of your hand, the tension is insufficient. Open the lever, turn the tension adjusting nut clockwise a quarter turn and then try again. 5)If the lever cannot be pushed all the way to a position parallel to the chainstay or seatstay tube, return the lever to the OPEN position. Then turn the adjusting nut counterclockwise one quarter turn and try again. 6) Push the rear derailleur back into position. 7) Close the brake shoes; then spin the wheel to make sure it is centred in the frame and clears the brake shoes. NOTE: Once the quick release is installed in the hub axle by the manufacturer or the Avanti Dealer, it never needs to be removed unless the hub itself requires servicing. If the hub requires servicing, consult your Avanti Dealer.
Your Bike Suspension / Forks Avanti Forte models come equipped with front suspension which is designed to smooth out some of the shocks encountered in off-road riding. If you have a Forte, ask your Avanti Dealer to provide you with the appropriate adjustment and maintenance instructions.
E. Tensioning Your Chain (Applies to bmx and Single speed bikes only):
Failure to check and service all suspension pivot points at regular intervals will result in poor suspension performance and ultimately costly repairs.
The chain must be at the correct tension. If it’s too tight the chain will be difficult to pedal and if it’s too loose it can come off the sprockets.
Adjust the tension of the chain as follows: • Loosen the axle nuts of the rear wheel • Loosen the clamp on the brake arm but do not remove the nut and the screw from the clamp • Move the rear wheel forward or backwards as necessary until you can pull the chain 6mm to 12mm from a straight-edge • Hold the wheel in this position and tighten the axle nuts to the recommended torque • Tighten the brake arm clamp
Replacement forks must have the same rake and inner diameter as those originally fitted to the bicycle.
Caution: Changing suspension adjustment can change the handling and braking characteristics of your bike. Never change suspension adjustment unless you are thoroughly familiar with the suspension system manufacturer’s instructions and recommendations, and always check for changes in the handling and braking characteristics of the bike after a suspension adjustment by taking a careful test ride in a hazard free area.
Warning: The chain must remain on the sprockets. If it comes off the sprockets a coaster brake will not work. When the chain is at the correct tightness you should have vertical movement of 6mm to 12mm in the chain. 10
Caution: 6mm to 12mm
Not all bikes can be safely retrofitted with some types of suspension systems. Before retrofitting a bike with suspension, check with the bikes manufacturer to make sure what you want to do is compatible with your bike’s design. www.avantibikes.com
How the Parts Work
• You will also need to transfer your body weight when breaking at speed or down a hill toward the rear of the bike as under braking your body will naturally want to go forward.
NOTE: For most effective braking, use both brakes and apply them simultaneously. Brakes enable you to slow or stop your bicycle which is critical to your safety. The brake system is not easy to adjust without the correct tools and training. It is strongly recommended that you visit an Avanti dealer if your brakes need adjusting. If in doubt speak to your dealer.
Tips for effective braking: • It’s important to your safety that you instinctively know which brake lever controls which brake on your bike. The braking action of a bicycle is a function of the friction between the brake surfaces, usually the brake shoes and the wheel rim. To make sure you have maximum friction available, keep your wheel rims and brake shoes clean and free of lubricants, waxes or polishes.
• Everything changes when you ride on loose surfaces or in wet weather. Tyre adhesion is reduced, so the wheels have less cornering and braking traction and can lock up with less brake force. Moisture or dirt on the brake shoes reduces their ability to grip. The way to maintain control on loose or wet surfaces is to go more slowly to begin with. • The V-Brake system has a lot more stopping power than conventional braking systems. They are basically the same set up with a similar cable and release system.
Types of brakes Different types of bicycles have different types of brakes. The brake types can be divided into three types: • Hub brakes: Including coaster brakes or drum brakes where the brake mechanism is inside the hub (Figure 8A). Hub brakes are controlled by a hand lever or by the pedals.
• Make sure your hands can reach and squeeze the brake levers comfortably. If your hands are too small to operate the levers comfortably, consult your Avanti Dealer before riding the bike. The lever reach may be adjustable; or you may need a different brake lever design. • Most brakes have some form of quick release mechanism to allow the brake shoes to clear the tyre when a wheel is reinstalled. When the brake release is in the open position, the brakes are inoperative. Ask your Avanti Dealer to make sure you understand the way the brake quick release works on your bike (see figs. 7A, 7B, 7C and 7D) and check each time to make sure both brakes work correctly before you get on the bike. • Brakes are designed to control your speed, not just to stop the bike. Maximum braking force for each wheel occurs at the point just before the wheel “locks up” (stops rotating) and starts to skid. Once the tyre skids you actually lose some of your stopping force and directional control. You need to practice slowing and stopping smoothly without locking up a wheel. To do this squeeze the lever progressively .
• Disc brakes: Brake pads apply pressure to a disc mounted to the hub of the wheel (figure 8B). The pressure is controlled with a hand lever that is connected to the brake by a cable or a hydraulic hose.
• If you feel the wheel begin to lock up, release pressure just a little to keep the wheel rotating just short of lockup. It’s important to develop a feel for the amount of brake lever pressure required for each wheel at different speeds and on different surfaces. To better understand this, experiment a little by walking your bike and applying different amounts of pressure to each brake lever, until the wheel locks.
Fig 8B - Disc brake parts: 1. Attachment bolts 2. Fixed-pad adjuster 3. Cable-clamp bolt
3. 4. 5.
• Rim brakes: Brake pads apply pressure to the rim. The pressure is controlled with a hand lever that is connected to the brake by a cable. Includes direct-pull or V-type brakes (Figure 8C) , cantilever brakes (Figure 8D), and road or caliper brakes (Figure 8E)
4. 3. Fig. 8D
2. Cantilever Brakes
Fig 8C - V brake: 1. Cable- clamp bolt 2. No touch 3. Pipe 4. Link 5. Pad-clamp bolt 6. Center-adjust screw 7. Arm-clamp bolt Fig 8D - Cantilever brake: 1. Linkwire 2. Arm-clamp bolt 3. Center-adjust screw 4. Pad-clamp bolt Fig 8E - Caliper brake: 1. Barrel-adjuster 2. Center-adjust screw 3. Brake release lever 4. Pad-clamp bolt
4. Fig. 8E
Warning: Applying the front brake first can pitch the rider over the handlebars, which can cause serious injury.
Warning: V Brakes are very powerful with minimal lever pull. Do not pull brakes front brakes on hard as you may fall or go over the handle bars.
Adjusting your brakes:
How the Parts Work
Inspection Before every ride perform the brake check from the Pre-Ride Safety Check. Monthly, examine all the brake bolts and brake-pads for worn areas. If in doubt take your bike to your dealer for inspection: • Rim brakes: If the grooves in the brake-pad surface are less than 2 mm deep (or 1 mm deep for direct-pull brakes) replace the brake-pads. • Disc brakes: Replace brake-pads that are thinner than 1.0 mm.
Brake Adjustment To adjust the clearance between the brake pads and the rim: 1. T urn the barrel-adjuster. - For most V-brake (Figure 8C) or cantilever (Figure 8D) systems the barrel-adjuster is on the lever. For most road caliper systems (Figure 8E-1) the barrel-adjuster is on the brake itself. - To increase the clearance between the brake-pad and rim, turn the barrel-adjuster clockwise. To decrease the clearance, turn the barreladjuster counterclockwise. 2. If the brake-pads can’t be adjusted correctly with the barrel-adjuster the following is required: - Direct-pull and caliper: Decrease the tightness of the cable-clamp bolt and attach the cable again. - Cantilever: Re-adjust the brake-pad alignment. If in doubt take the bike to your dealer for adjustment.
• Brake Pad alignment for Rim brakes: 1. Brake Pad in alignment with rim surface 2. Pad and Rim should be parellel 3. Direction in which the rim turns 4. 0.5-1.0mm toe-in
1. To put a direct-pull, cantilever, or road brake in the centre 1. Turn the centre-adjust screw (Figure 8C-6, Figure 8D-3, or Figure 8E-2) in small increments. 2. If the brake has two centre-adjustment screws adjust the overall spring tension while you put the brake in the centre. If in doubt take the bike to your dealer for adjustment. To adjust the alignment of the brake-pads on a rim brake 1. Decrease the tightness of the pad clamp bolt. 2. Align the brake-pads as shown in Figure 8F Then tighten the pad-clamp bolts as follows: - Caliper: 40-60 lb-in (4.5-6.8 Nm) - Direct-pull or cantilever: 70-80 lb-in (7.9-9 Nm)
3. 4. Fig. 8F
Brake Pad alignment
If either brake lever on your bike fails the 60 Second Safety Check, you can restore brake lever travel by turning the brake cable adjusting barrel (fig. 8E -1) counterclockwise, then lock the adjustment in by turning the barrels lock nut clockwise as far as it will go. If the lever still fails have your Avanti Dealer check the brakes. 14
3. Align the brake with the disc a. Decrease the tightness of the brake attachment bolts. b. Slide a business card or other thin object between the right brake-pad and the disc. c. Pull the lever fully, and tighten the bolts to 100-110 lb-in (11.3-12.4 Nm).
To release the brake for wheel removal • For most road calipers, lift the brake release lever (Figure 8E-3) to the “up” position. To close, turn the lever to the “down” position. To close the brake do the reverse. • For cantilever brakes, release the link-wire (Figure 8D-1). With one hand, push the brake pads fully against the rim. With the other hand, pull the leaded end of the link-wire from the fork on the brake-arm. Release the brake-pads. To close the brake do the reverse. • For direct-pull brakes, disconnect the pipe from the link (Figure 8C-3). With one hand, push the pads fully against the rim. With the other hand, pull the pipe away from the link, and lift the pipe. Release the brakepads. To close the brake do the reverse. • For internal or drum brakes, to remove the rear wheel, first disconnect the gear and brake cables. To disconnect the brake cable push the cable-carrier arm forward and the cable clamp bolt backwards so the bolt aligns with the larger diameter hole in the carrier. Pull the cable-clamp bolt out to remove it from the carrier. Slide the brake-cable stop forward to remove it from the brake-arm. Decrease the tightness of the brake-strap bolt. To disconnect the gear cable, put the shift lever in first gear. Pull the cable-housing out of the gear-cable housing-stop. Turn the gear cable-clamp bolt until the washer flats align with the slit in the cog joint bracket. Remove the cable. If in doubt take the bike to your dealer for adjustment.
To remove disc brake-pads 1. Take the wheel off the bike 2. Remove split pin which runs through the body of the brake calliper and pads, then with your fingers or pliers, hold the tang of the brake-pad and pull out the pad.
Brake Lever Adjustment Brake levers enable you to control the brakes. Their position should enable you to control the brakes with a minimum amount of effort or movement.
2. Fig. 8H
2. Adjust the clearance between the left brake-pad and the disc a. Turn the cable barrel-adjuster: clockwise to increase clearance, anti-clockwise to decrease clearance. b. If the pads can’t be adjusted correctly, reduce the tightness of the cable-clamp bolt and re-attach the cable. Tighten the cable-clamp bolt to 50-70 lb-in (5.7-7.9 Nm). c. After adjustment, turn the lock-nut clockwise to make sure the adjustment doesn’t change.
1. Lever-clamp bolt 2. Reach-adjustment screw
Types of levers: Road levers for drop handlebars Figure 8G. Mountain levers for flat handlebars Figure 8H. Middle-bar brake levers for drop handlebars Figure 8I. To adjust the position of a lever 1. Find the lever-clamp bolt (Figure 8G, Figure 8H, or Figure 8I). 2. Reduce the tightness of the clamp bolt two to three turns. 3. Move the lever to where you want it. 4. Tighten the lever-clamp bolt: Road or mountain brake-levers: 53-69 lb-in (6.0-7.8 Nm). Middle-bar levers 20-30 lb-in (2.3-3.3 Nm). To adjust the reach to the brake-lever 1. Find the reach-adjustment screw (Figure 8H-2) and turn. To decrease the reach, turn the screw clockwise. To increase the reach turn the screw anti-clockwise. 2. If it’s necessary after you adjust the reach also adjust the brake pad clearance.
1. Lever-clamp bolt
To align a hydraulic disc brake 1. Undo the brake attachment bolts slightly (Figure 8B-1). 2. Fully pull the lever, and tighten the bolts to: 100-110 lb-in (11.3-12.4 Nm). To align a cable disc brake 1. Adjust the clearance between the right brake-pad and the disc a. Turn the fixed-pad adjuster (Figure 8B-2). b. If you have difficulty, read the instructions “To adjust the clearance between the left brake-pad and the disc,” and then adjust the right pad.
How the Parts Work
3. After you adjust the brakes check them by pulling the levers. Make sure the cable does not slide through the clamp, the brake-pads engage the rim at ninety-degree angles, and the brake-pads do not touch the tire. If in doubt take the bike to your dealer for adjustment.
Middle bar Lever
1. Lever-clamp bolt
Shifting the Rear Derailleur:
The gear changing mechanism on your bike consists of: • A rear sprocket cluster called a freewheel or freewheel cassette • A rear derailleur • Usually a front derailleur • One or two shifters • One or two control cables • One, two or three front sprockets called chainrings • A drive chain
The rear derailleur is controlled by the right shifter. The function of the rear derailleur is to move the drive chain from one gear to another on the rear gear cluster, thereby changing gear drive ratios. The small sprockets on the gear cluster produce higher gear ratios. Pedalling in the higher gears requires greater pedalling effort, but takes you a greater distance with each revolution of the pedal cranks. The larger sprockets produce lower gear ratios. Using them requires less pedalling effort, but takes you a shorter distance with each pedal crank revolution. Moving the chain from a smaller sprocket of the gear cluster to a larger sprocket results in a down shift. Moving the chain from a larger sprocket to a smaller sprocket results in an up shift. In order for the derailleur to disengage the chain from one sprocket and move it onto another, the chain must be moving forward (ie. the rider must be pedalling forward).
How the Parts Work
Why all those gears? The number of possible gear combinations (“speeds”) is the product of multiplying the number of sprockets at the rear of the drivetrain by the number of sprockets at the front (6 x 3 = 18, 7 x 3 = 21, 9 x 3 = 27 and so on). You will get the greatest fitness benefit, produce the greatest sustained power and have the greatest endurance if you learn to spin the pedals at high revolutions per minute (called cadence) against low resistance. You will get the least fitness benefit and have the least endurance by pushing hard on the pedals against heavy resistance. The purpose of having so many gears on a bike is to let you choose the gear which allows you to maintain your optimum cadence under the widest range of riding conditions. Depending on your fitness level and experience (the more fit, the higher the cadence), optimum cadence is between 60 and 90 pedal revolutions per minute.
Shifting Gears: There are many different types of shifter mechanisms, each preferred for specific types of application because of its ergonomic, performance and price characteristics. The designers of your bike have selected the shifter design which they believe will give the best results on your bike. The different types of shifters and their operation are illustrated in Figures 7A, 7B & 7C .
Caution: Never move the shifter while pedalling backward, nor pedal backwards after having moved the shifter. This could jam the chain and cause serious damage to the bike.
Warning: Never shift a misadjusted derailleur onto the largest or the smallest sprocket. The chain could jam, causing you to lose control and fall.
Shifting the Front Derailleur: The front derailleur, which is controlled by the left shifter, shifts the chain between the larger and smaller chainrings. Shifting the chain onto a smaller chainring makes pedalling easier (a down-shift). Shifting to a larger chainring makes pedalling harder (an up-shift).
Which gear should I be in? The combination of largest rear, smallest front gears (fig. 8) is for the steepest hills. The smallest rear, largest front combination (fig. 8) is for the greatest speed. It is not necessary to shift gears in sequence. Instead, find the “starting gear” which is right for your level of ability, a gear which is hard enough for quick acceleration but easy enough to let you start from a stop without wobbling and experiment with up shifting and down shifting to get a feel for the different gear combinations. At first, practice shifting where there are not obstacles, hazards or other traffic, until you’ve built up your confidence. Once you’ve learned the basics, experience will teach you which gear is appropriate for which condition and practice will help you shift smoothly, and at the right time.
Your Cables If you experience bad shifting or stiff brakes the problem could be as simple as dirt, rust or kinked cables. To clean and lube the cables, select the smallest chainring on the front and the smallest cog on the rear, release cable anchor bolts on front and rear derailleurs. The cable goes slack allowing you to remove outercable from cable stops. Clean inner cable with rag then cover with a coating of grease. Oil the inside of outer casing. Refit inner cable into outer casing before fitting outer casing back into the correct position in cable stops. Tighten inner cables onto anchor bolts of both front and rear derailleurs. This will solve problems in most cases, if not you may need new cables, your Avanti Dealer will be able to help.
Once cables are fitted onto anchor bolts of front and rear derailleur fine tuning of cable tension will be needed to ensure correct index shifting. Because cable tension adjustment is a delicate procedure, to ensure correct index shifting, we recommend that you take your bike to your local Avanti Dealer or Service Centre.
Clipless (“Step -In ”) Pedals Clipless pedals (sometimes called “step-in pedals”) ensure maximum pedalling efficiency. They work like ski bindings.... a plate on the sole of the shoe clicks into a spring loaded fixture on the pedal. Clipless pedals require shoes and cleats specifically designed for the make and model of pedal being used. Many clipless pedals are designed to allow the rider to adjust the amount of force needed to engage or disengage the foot. Your Avanti Dealer can show you how to make this adjustment.
Warning: Clipless pedals are intended for use with shoes specifically made to fit them and are designed to firmly keep the foot engaged with the pedal. Practice is required to learn to engage and disengage the foot safely. Until engaging and disengaging the foot becomes a reflex action, the technique requires concentration which can distract the rider’s attention, causing the rider to lose control and fall. Practice engaging and disengaging clipless pedals in a place where there are no obstacles, hazards or traffic.
Fitting Your Bike To get the most out of your riding and to be as comfortable as possible your bike should be properly sized and fitted. Here’s a quick guide to setting yourself up on the on your bike. For a complete set up see your Avanti dealer.
Frame size: Your Avanti Dealer will have recommended the best frame size for you, based on the information provided. If someone else selected the bike for you, as a gift, for example, it’s important for you to make sure that it fits before you ride it. The first check for correct size is stand over height. Stand over height is the basic element of bike fit. • It is the distance from the ground to the top of the top tube at the point where your crotch would be if you were straddling the bike by standing half way between the saddle and the handlebar stem. • If you can’t straddle the bike while wearing the kind of shoes in which you’ll be riding, and bounce vigorously on your heels without having the bike touch your crotch, don’t even ride the bike around the block. The bike is too big for you to ride safely. • A bike which you ride only on paved surfaces and never take off-road should give you a minimum stand over height clearance of 25-50mm. A bike that you’ll ride on unpaved surfaces should give you a minimum of 50mm of stand over height clearance.
Fitting Your Bike
Stand Over Height
Correct saddle adjustment is an important factor in getting the most performance and comfort from your bike. Your Avanti Dealer will have positioned the saddle where experience tells them most people find it comfortable. If you find the saddle position is uncomfortable, there are adjustments you can make. Look at Figures 10A, 10B and 10C, and determine which one illustrates the type of saddle attachment on your bike.
If your seat post projects from the frame beyond the Minimum Insertion or Maximum Extension mark (see fig.12), the seat post may break, which could cause you to lose control and fall.
A saddle can be adjusted in three directions: 1. Up and down adjustment: Your leg length determines the correct saddle height. This height can be found using this simple procedure. • Sit on the saddle; • Place both heels on the pedals; • Rotate the crank backwards until a pedal with your heel on it is in the down position and the crank arm is parallel to the seat tube. • If your leg is not completely straight with your heel still on the pedal your saddle height needs to be adjusted. To adjust the saddle height, loosen the seat binder bolt (see fig. 11A & 11B) and move the seat post up or down as required. Then, make sure the saddle is parallel to the top tube of the bike, and tighten the seat binder bolt tight enough so that you cannot twist the saddle out of alignment. Check the adjustment as described above. Under no circumstances should the seat post project from the frame beyond its “Minimum Insertion” or “Maximum Extension” mark (see fig. 12)
Fitting Your Bike
2. Front and back adjustment: Loosen the saddle clamping mechanism (see fig. 10A, 10B or 10C) and slide the saddle back or forward on its rails. Start with the saddle clamped in about the middle, then adjust forward or back until you find the position which is most comfortable for you. Then, tighten the saddle clamping mechanism. 3. Saddle tilt adjustment: Most people prefer a horizontal saddle; but some riders prefer to have the saddle nose tilted up just a little, and others prefer it to be tilted down just a little. • Saddles with saddle brackets (fig. 10A) can have their tilt adjusted by loosening the saddle bracket nuts, tilting the saddle to the desired position, and tighten the saddle bracket nuts. • Saddles with two bolt microadjustable seat posts (fig. 10B) are adjusted by changing the relative position of the two bolts which hold the saddle to the seat post and then tighten both bolts. Saddles with single bolt or two bolt toothed rocker tilt mechanism seat posts (fig. 10C) are adjusted by loosening the clamp bolt(s) with an Allen Key, tilting the saddle, and then tightening the clamp bolt(s). Very small changes in saddle position can have substantial effect on performance and comfort. Consequently, whenever you make a change to your saddle position, make only one directional change at a time, and make the changes in small increments until you have found the position at which you are most comfortable.
Handlebar height and angle:
Min insert mark
fig. 10A Standard binder
If your bike is equipped with a stem which clamps directly on to the outside of the steering tube, your Avanti Dealer may be able to change bar height by moving height adjustment spacers from below the stem to above the stem, or visa versa. Otherwise, you’ll have to get a different stem. Consult your Avanti Dealer. However, on most bikes, you can raise or lower your handlebars a bit by adjusting stem height. Loosen the stem binder bolt by turning it counter-clockwise three or four full turns. If the bolt rises, but the stem doesn’t, use a piece of wood or a soft mallet to give the bolt a tap to release the wedge. Adjust the stem position as desired, and tighten the binder bolt tight enough so that you cannot twist the stem and handlebars out of alignment. (See Fig. 13)
On some bikes, changing stem height can affect the tension of the front brake cable, locking the front brake or creating sufficient cable slack to make the front brake inoperable. If the front brake shoes move in towards the wheel rim or out away from the wheel rim when you change stem height, take your bike to your Avanti Dealer for correct brake adjustment before riding it.
Staying Safe Safety Equipment Correct
The stems Minimum Insertion mark must not be visible above the top of the headset (see fig.13). If the stem is extended beyond the Minimum Insertion mark, the stem may damage the forks steerer tube or break, which could cause you to lose control and fall.
Always wear a New Zealand or Australian Standards approved helmet while riding. Wear one which fits comfortably and securely, and does not in anyway interfere with your vision or hearing. We recommend Standards Approved AVANTI and SPECIALIZED helmets.
You can change the angle of the handlebar or bar end extensions by loosening their binder bolt, twisting the bar or extension to the desired angle, centering it, and tighten the binder bolt tight enough so that the bar or extensions can’t twist in relation to each other and the stem.
Warning: Failure to properly tighten the stem binder bolt, the handlebar binder bolt or the bar end extension clamping bolts may compromise steering action, which could cause you to lose control and fall. If you can twist the stem in relation to the front wheel, turn the handlebars in relation to the stem, or turn the bar end extensions in relation to the handlebar, tighten the bolts.
Gloves: Gloves save the skin on your palms. When you fall off your bike you instinctively put your hands down to save yourself. A quality leather or synthetic glove will help prevent the loss of skin. We recommend Specialized and Zero gloves.
Clothing: Bright and reflective clothing is particularly important at night when visibility is generally reduced. For comfort it is suggested lightweight and multi-layer clothing is worn, with particular attention made to protect hands, feet and head especially against the cold. See the later section on What to Wear for more info.
Brake and Shifter Angle:
The brakes and shifters can be adjusted to suit any particular person. The ultimate position varies from rider to rider but a rule of thumb is about 45 degrees in line with your arms while seated normally on the bike.
Any kind of riding, particularly off-road riding, involves airborne dirt, dust and bugs, so it’s a good idea to always ride with protective eye wear, tinted when the sun is bright, clear when it’s not. Avanti dealers carry protective fashion eye wear, some with interchangeable lens systems.
The 6O Second Pre Ride Safety Check Here is a simple, 60 second mechanical safety check which you should get in the habit of making every time you’re about to get on your bike.
Nuts, Bolts & Straps:
Lift the front wheel off the ground by about 10cm, then let it bounce on the ground. Does anything sound, feel or look loose? Do a quick visual and tactile inspection of the whole bike. Are there any loose parts or accessories? If so, secure them. If you’re not sure, ask someone with experience to check.
Min Insert mark
Are your tyres correctly inflated? Check by putting one hand on the saddle, one on the intersection of the handlebars and stem, then bouncing your weight on the bike while looking at tyre deflection. Compare what you see with how it looks when you know the tyres are correctly inflated, and adjust if necessary. Are your tyres in good shape? Spin each wheel slowly and look for cuts in the tread and side wall. Replace damaged tyres before riding the bike. Are your wheels true? Spin each wheel and check for brake clearance and side-to-side wobble. If a wheel wobbles side-to-side or hits the brake pads, take the bike to an Avanti dealer to have the wheel trued.
Caution: Wheels must be true for the brakes to work effectively. Wheel truing is a skill which requires special tools and experience. Do not attempt to true a wheel unless you have the knowledge and tools needed to do the job correctly.
Brakes: Squeeze the brake levers. Are the brake quick releases closed? Is the straddle cable securely engaged? Are the brake shoes contacting the wheel rim within 25mm of brake lever movement? Can you apply full braking force at the levers without having them touch the handlebar? If not, your brakes need adjustment.
Warning: Riding with improperly adjusted brakes or worn brake shoes is dangerous and can result in serious injury.
Quick Releases: Are the front wheel, rear wheel and seat post quick releases properly adjusted and in the locked position?
Warning: Riding with an improperly adjusted wheel quick release can cause the wheel to wobble or disengage from the bike, which can cause damage to the bike and serious injury.
Handlebar and saddle alignment: Are the saddle and handlebar stem correctly installed, parallel to the bikes top tube and tight enough so you can’t twist them out of alignment?
Tyres & Wheels:
Time to go riding - safely Now buckle on your helmet and enjoy your ride. Like any sport, cycling involves risk of injury and damage. We have made our bikes as safe as we possibly can to provide maximum enjoyment and safety for you. However you need to remember that you take ultimate responsibility for your safety in the way you look after your bike and the way you ride.
Tips for Safe Riding 1. Always wear a New Zealand or Australian Standards Approved helmet while riding. 2. Familiarise yourself with your bike and its controls before riding. 3. Be sure your bike is in proper operating condition. In particular, check brakes, derailleurs, tyres and wheels, saddle and seat post, handlebar and stem and all quick release levers. 4. Know and obey all traffic laws. A copy of the road code is available from your local Police station or book shop. 5. Ride with traffic. Never ride against traffic. 6. Ride in single file. 7. Maintain a steady course. Avoid sudden swerving. 8. Use proper hand signals to alert motorists, pedestrians, and other cyclists of your intention to stop or turn. 9. B eware of cars entering traffic. Motorists entering traffic often do not see cyclists. Keep a watchful eye on side streets. 10. Beware of road hazards. The most common road hazards include sand, broken glass, storm drains, pot holes, pedestrians, parked car doors opening, dogs and railroad crossings. 11. Never ride double or carry packages which obstruct your view or inhibit your control of the bike. 12. Always keep at least one hand in control of the handlebars. 13. Never stunt ride or ride while holding onto another vehicle. 14. Do not ride with loose clothing or bare feet. Use leg clips or bands to keep trousers from tangling in the chain. 15. Never ride at night without proper lighting. 16. Be aware that wet weather riding causes longer braking distances, and a greater possibility of skidding. 17. Be cautious and careful. Never assume that a driver will stop at an intersection. Try to make eye contact with all drivers and even then, never assume that the driver sees you or will stop in time to avoid hitting you.
Handlebar ends: • Are the handlebar grips secure and in good condition? If not, replace them. • Are the handlebar ends and extensions (if you have them) plugged and tightened? If not, plug and tighten them before you ride.
Warning: Loose or damaged handlebar grips or extensions can cause you to lose control and fall. Unplugged handlebars or extensions can act like a cookie cutter on your body, and can cause serious injury in an otherwise minor accident.
What you need:
Wet weather impairs traction, braking and visibility, both for the rider and for other vehicles sharing the road. The risk of accident is dramatically increased in wet conditions. Ride slower and apply brakes gradually in wet weather.
1. Spare tube 2. 2 or 3 tyre levers 3. Pump 4. Positive attitude
Wet Weather Riding
Brake Type 1. The Calliper
Riding a bike at night is many times more dangerous than riding during the day. Therefore, children should never ride at dusk or at night. Adults should not ride at dusk or at night unless using lights and reflectors.
Handy Tip: Simply flick the small ‘quick release’ lever up so that the wheel can drop out without getting caught up in the brake pads. Once repair is done, just flip down the lever again.
Warning: Riding at dusk, after dark or at times of poor visibility without a bike lighting system and without reflectors is dangerous and can result in serious injury or death. Before riding at dusk or night, take the following steps to make yourself visible: • Make sure your bike is equipped with correctly positioned and securely mounted reflectors. • Purchase and install an adequate battery or generator powered head and tail light. •Wear light coloured, reflective clothing and accessories, such as a reflective vest, reflective arm and leg bands, reflective stripes on your helmet, flashing lights ...any reflective device or light source that moves will help you get the attention of approaching motorists, pedestrians and other traffic.
Brake type 2. V-brake Squeeze the brake arms together and pull the cable out of the latch.
It’s important to your performance, enjoyment and safety to understand how things work on your bike. Even if you’re an experienced cyclist, don’t assume the way things work on your new bike is the same as how they work on older bikes. If you have even the slightest doubt as to whether you understand something, talk to your Avanti Dealer.
Valves (From Left to Right) The Presta Valve… and the Car (or American) Valve
Step One • Undo the plastic valve cap and un-screw the valve and press in if you use presta, or press in the internal valve if you have a Car valve and release any air that may be still in the tyre. If you have a presta valve you may have to un-screw a small silver lock nut from the valve stem also • Quickly inspect the surface of the tyre and try to see if there is any obvious reason for the puncture, this could speed up the repair if you know where the problem started from. You may see large cuts or thorns, glass etc…still in the tyre.
Step Three • Take one side of the tyre off the rim and leave the other side still embedded on the rim. • Reach in and remove the tube, but leave the valve inserted into the rim hole. Get your pump and pump some air into the tube and listen for any leaks. This will point you directly to the cause of the problem. If it’s leaking from a small hole in the tube…track back to the corresponding area on the tyre where the tube once lived and look for glass, thorns and cuts in the tyre. You may have to feel for it, but be careful not to cut you fingers! • Once you have found the cause, remove the cause of the puncture from the tyre. This is very important.
Step Two • Use your tyre levers and hook the first one under the bead of the tyre. Some levers have small hooks on the opposite end and once you have got under the first bead you can bend the lever downwards and latch them around the spokes below and they should hold securely. • Repeat this across the tyre until about one quarter of the tyre is off the rim. Depending on the condition of the tyre, it may be easy to take the tyre from this point. If not…remove the middle lever and try and prise open another section until you feel the tyre release from the rim.
• Pump a few strokes of air in the tube, just to give it shape. Don’t let the tube twist. Insert the new tube, valve first into the valve hole in the rim. Then tuck the tube into the tyre all the way around the tyre. So all you should see now is the bead of the tyre over hang one side of the wheel…the tube should be so well tucked into the tyre, it’s almost hidden.
Looking After Your Bike
• Then starting from the top of the wheel by the valve, use both hands and start to remount the tyre by pushing the edge of the tyre towards the centre of the rim. • With half of the tyre mounted, press the valve up into the tyre. You should feel it adjust and the tyre seat into the rim. Not doing this could cause the tyre to bulge once fully inflated. • Fit the rest of the tyre, rolling the last part on with your thumbs. Try not to use the tyre levers to clip over the last piece; this will cause the tube to pinch. Inspect that the tube is not caught between the tyre bead and the rim at any point. • Start pumping up the tyre until you think you are about half pressure. Stop and assess the tyre, making sure it looks seated and there are no wobbles. Spin the wheel slowly. Once satisfied, pump to normal inflation.
Looking After Your Bike Service and Maintenance How much of your bike’s service and maintenance you can do yourself depends on your level of skill and experience, and on whether you have the special tools required. In most cases it is best to get your Avanti Dealer to service your bike.
Warning: Many bike service and repair tasks require special knowledge and tools. Do not begin any adjustments or service on your bike if you have the slightest doubt about your ability to properly complete them. Improper adjustment or service may result in damage to the bike or cause an accident which can result in serious injury.
Break in Period Your bike will last longer and work better if you break it in before riding it hard. Control cables and wheel spokes may stretch or “seat” when a new bike is first used and may require readjustment by your Avanti Dealer. Avanti Dealer’s typically suggest you bring the bike in for a 30 day checkup. Another way to judge when it’s time for the first checkup is to bring the bike in after three to five hours of hard off-road use, or 10 to 15 hours of on-road or more casual off-road use. But if you think something is wrong with the bike, take it to your Avanti Dealer before riding it again.
General Maintenance Other handy stuff to know
If you want to do your own maintenance here are the things you should look out for:
• You can’t change your tyre diameter, but you can consider a change in width. A wider tyre can give a more comfortable ride and better traction. A narrower tyre offers easier pedalling and better speed. • Always keep a spare set of inner tubes on hand. They are fairly cheap, and punctures are common.
1. Before every ride: Perform a 60 second safety check (page 21). 2. After every long or hard ride; if the bike has been exposed to water or grit; or at least every 160 km: Clean the bike and lightly oil the chain, freewheel cogs and rear derailleur pulley bushings. Wipe off excess oil. 3. After every long or hard ride or after 10 to 20 hours of riding: Squeeze the front brake and rock the bike forward and back. Does everything feel solid? If you feel a clunk with each forward or backward movement of the bike, you probably have a loose headset. 4. L ift the front wheel off the ground and swing it from side to side. Does it feel smooth? If you feel any binding or roughness in the steering, you may have a tight headset. 5. Grab one pedal and rock it toward and away from the centre line of the bike; then do the same with the other pedal. Does anything feel loose?
List of Tools
7. Check the control cables and cable housings. Is there any rust? Kinks? Fraying? If so, replace them.
•Torque Wrench (for assembly and adjustment) • Allen Key set or multi tool (for sizing adjustments) • Phillips head screwdriver • Flat blade screwdriver •150mm adjustable spanner • Pump for bike • Floor pump with gauge • Chain oil (to keep the bike running smoothly) • Chain cleaner (to get rid of road grime)
8. Squeeze each adjoining pair of spokes on either side of each wheel between your thumb and index finger. Do they all feel about the same? If any feel loose, check the wheel for tension and trueness. 9. Check the frame, particularly in the area around all tube joints, the handlebars, the stem and the seat post for any deep scratches cracks or discolouration. These are signs of stress caused fatigue and indicate that a part is at the end of its useful life and needs to be replaced. 10. Check to make sure that all parts and accessories are secure and tighten any which are not.
Warning: Like any mechanical device, a bike and its components are subject to wear and stress. Different materials and mechanisms wear or fatigue from stress at different rates and have different life cycles. If a component’s life cycle is exceeded, the component can suddenly fail, causing serious injury to the rider. Scratches, cracks and discolouration are signs of stress caused fatigue and indicate that a part is at the end of its useful life and needs to be replaced. 11. As required: if either brake lever fails the 60 Second Safety Check restore brake lever travel by turning the brake cable adjusting barrel counterclockwise, then lock the adjustment in by turning the barrels lock nut clockwise as far as it will go. If the lever still fails the 60 Second Safety Check have your Avanti Dealer check the brakes. 12. If the chain won’t shift smoothly and quietly from gear to gear: the derailleur is out of adjustment. The cause may be as simple as cable stretch, in which case you can compensate by turning the shifter or derailleur cable adjusting barrel counterclockwise 1/2 turn. Try shifting again. If 1/2 turn to a full turn of the cable adjusting barrel does not cure the problem, see your Avanti Dealer. 13. Every 25 (hard off-road) to 50 (on-road) hours of riding: take your bike to your Avanti Dealer for a checkup.
Looking After Your Bike
6. Take a look at the brake shoes. Are they starting to look worn or not hitting the wheel rim squarely? It’s time to adjust or replace them.
The list of tools below are the basics you need to adjust your bike. Keep them handy!
Bike Adjustment Adjustments may require special tools and technical expertise. You should make these adjustments only if you possess the technical expertise to do them properly. If in doubt ask your Avanti Dealer. We recommend that you use a torque wrench to carry out assembly and adjustments of your bike. Your Avanti Dealer should have all the nuts, bolts and screws correctly tightened for you when you take delivery of the bike. If you make any adjustments to your bike, you should be sure to tighten the nuts, bolts or screws to their correct tightness as indicated by the torque values listed below:
Torque force specifications Handle binder bolt
150 to 180 in.lbs or 170 to 200 cm.kgf
Stem binder bolt
175 to 260 in.lbs or 200 to 300 cm.kgf
Stem to steerer binder
100 to 120 in.lbs or 115 to 140 cm.kgf
Seat binder bolt
150 to 180 in.lbs or 170 to 200 cm.kgf
Saddle clamp bolts
175 to 350 in.lbs or 200 to 400 cm.kgf
Wheel axle nut
130 to 210 in.lbs or 150 to 250 cm.kgf
Brake Cable Anchor Bolt
Brake Centre Bolt
Bike washing dislodges abrasive residue that can be pulled through a bike drive train and into cables. This residue is what causes the parts to wear quickly. Basically, you wash a bike like you wash a car. Modern bikes have sealed or semi-sealed bearing surfaces that can resist some water intrusion. They are not waterproof. Do not use power washers or direct a high pressure stream of water into any bearing surface such as hubs, bottom bracket, headset, or cassette.
After cleaning and before storage it is important that you lubricate your bike. To keep your bike in top running order it is important to lubricate it when new and at regular intervals, especially after riding in rain or bad weather. We recommend Pedros grease and Pedros bike chain lube, or ask your Avanti Dealer.
Looking After Your Bike
How To Keep Your Bike Clean
You should pay particular attention to the following parts: To wash a bike you need the following equipment:
Chain: • Bucket • Sponge • Towel(s) • Stiff bristle brush • Hose • Chain lube • Water soluble biodegradable degreaser • Start by rinsing the bike off with a garden hose. This will dislodge the loose foreign matter attached to the bike. • Once the rinse is complete apply a biodegradable degreaser to the drivetrain. Be sure you get the back of the chainrings and the cogs as well as the chain. • After you apply the degreaser it is a good idea to let it soak for a few minutes to dissolve lubricant residue. • Following the degreaser, use a stiff bristle brush to scrub the chainrings and cogs. Scrub both sides of the chain as it passes over the chainring while back-pedalling. Scrub the drivetrain thoroughly and pay attention to the back of the chainrings. If you have used wax based lubricants you may have a difficult time getting the entire residue off. • After scrubbing the degreaser off the drivetrain, soap the entire bike with a big sponge and a lot of warm suds. Wash the handlebar and stem area, getting behind the brake levers and under the stem. Wash under the saddle and wash both rims and tires. Soap the drivetrain to wash off the degreaser residue. • Following the wash, rinse the bike completely. Quickly towel the bike and take it for a ride for about 5 minutes to blow the water off. After your short ride towel it off thoroughly. • About every 3-4 washes you should mark your saddle height on the seat post, remove your seatpost and dry the inside of the seat tube and the outside of the seatpost. • Following the complete drying, relube your chain from the bottom, on the inside of the chain’s rotation so centrifugal force drives the lube into the chin links, not off onto your bike. Wipe all the excess lube off the chain by back-pedalling the drivetrain through a rag several times.
Rotate the chain and lightly oil along its complete length. Wipe off surplus oil with a cloth.
Brake calipers: Lightly oil the brake calliper pivot points
Lubrication Chart Part
6-12 months (off-road riding: 3 months)
Monthly (off-road riding: after each ride)
Derailleur Jockey Wheels
Triathlon Use: Ensure bike is cleaned after use as salt from swimming and sweat can cause corrosion. To protect your paint work use a high quality auto polish. Pay particular attention to areas around cable guides.
How To Avoid Sore Body Parts
Here are some tips to avoid sore bits while you’re riding and keeping yourself comfortable on and off your bike.
If your bike is not in regular use or is not going to be used during the winter a few simple tips will ensure it remains in good condition.
How to Avoid Sore Body Parts
Do not allow oil to come into contact with tyres. Keep oil away from wheel rims and brake blocks. Avoid over-lubrication, as this will attract dirt.
Aching muscles • First make sure it is clean and lubricated. • Always store it in a dry shed or garage. • Do not store in direct sunlight, as the ultra-violet rays will fade paint and perish tyres. • To protect the tyres, we suggest you store your bike with the tyres off the ground. • Make sure the tyres are always kept slightly inflated. • Do not store near electric motors because ozone which is a by-product of the motors can destroy rubber and paint. • Do not cover with plastic, as this ‘sweats’ and will cause rusting. • If the bike is not likely to be used for some time (eg over winter), it is suggested that metal parts should be smeared lightly with grease to help prevent rusting. DO NOT GREASE WHEEL RIMS.
Even if you only have a limited amount of time, warming up and warming down before and after your ride can do wonders for your muscle soreness. Warming down is always important: if you cruise for an easy 1015 minutes after your ride, you can decrease the soreness of your muscles for the following days. It’s also a good idea to avoid hills during the last part of your ride.
Sore knees If your shoes/cleats (if you’re using clipless pedals) are incorrectly set up, it can lead to pain in your knees. If you’re getting sore knees, have your Avanti dealer check your cleat alignment. Your seat height is another adjustment that can cause knee irritation, so check your seat height is in the correct position.
Neck/back stiffness Remember • Do a 60 second safety check before returning it to use (see page 21). • Clean off any protective grease with an oil based solvent. Don’t use thinners or similar products. • If you need any further guidance contact your local Avanti Dealer
Security As you read this a bike is being stolen, and most are never returned to their rightful owner. To help you prevent you becoming one of these unfortunate cyclist, there are a few simple precautions. • Record your frame number at the back of this book. • If you have to leave your bike unattended ensure that you lock it to a secure object. A full range of locks are available from your local Avanti Dealer. • As a precaution it is advised that when you leave your bike you remove any accessories eg. pumps and removable lights, and that you secure any quick release items such as seats and front wheels, by locking them to the bike or taking them with you.
Obviously the position that you cycle in isn’t a natural position so it’s normal to get discomfort in your neck and lower back because of this. • While you’re riding, try and consciously stretch both your neck (by moving your head from side to side/up and down), and also your back. If you can do this as often as you remember it can minimise the chances of stiffening up. • Also, without getting too in-depth, weak lower abdominal muscles can cause you to make your back work more than it should have to. So getting some advice from health professionals in this area could be a good idea if the problem persists. • Your bike set-up can also be causing you to get sore in these areas, so if it’s a continuing problem, pop in to your local Avanti dealer and have them check you out.
Hands going numb? • To keep your hands from going numb gloves are a good idea during a ride. You can also try a thicker handlebar tape. • While you’re riding, try to change your grip on the handle bars frequently to different positions on the bars. This can help your blood flow.
...Or your feet? • Check your shoes aren’t too small for you, or that your shoes aren’t done up too tight. • You can also try and increase the circulation to your feet by moving your toes around in your shoes, and also try pulling UP on your pedals for a few strokes (instead of naturally pushing down). Doing this on and off during your ride can help keep the circulation going all the way to your feet, and decrease the numbness.
Tops Cycling tops
Why use a cycling top? Comfort - usually made of specific fabric designed to remove the sweat away from your body, so are often a lot more comfortable. (Plain cotton t-shirts tend to soak up the sweat, leaving you wet) Design - designed with longer backs to allow for your position on the bike – preventing gaps on your lower back and resulting sunburn etc.... Pockets - pretty essential food transporters! You can also store wallets/jackets/mobile phones. Tighter fitting - more aerodynamic, absorb and evaporate sweat more quickly and are generally more comfortable. Long front zip - more ventilation in really hot conditions (and you can fit your shirt on over your head, even with your helmet on!)
Arm and leg warmers are “extensions” to your top or shorts that you can add/remove from your arms/legs in cooler weather. Easy to use – the extensions are easily taken on and off, so you can remove/add them during a ride depending on the weather. Tight fitting – designed to fit under your jersey/shorts. The snug fit reduces friction between the fabric and your skin, and won’t get caught in any part of your bike or surrounding objects! Footwear
T-shirts/Sports tops If the fabric is appropriate, breathable and moisture wicking, then sports tops can be quite effective. But they usually don’t have the benefits of zips and pockets.
Gloves Gloves can be a good idea for a few reasons: Hygiene – your handlebar tape can get pretty grimey if you’re not a big bike washer. Gloves can be thrown in the wash so provide a clean barrier between your hands, and your handlebars. Grip – they can also help to grip the handlebars, especially in hot weather when your hands may sweat more. Safety – in any event of an accident, gloves can help protect your hands from minor damage. Padding - Some new gloves have special padding in them that helps absorb the vibration of your handlebars from the road (which can cause numbness or pins and needles in the fingers/hands) Hanky purposes – They’re also really handy for wiping your nose on.
Shorts Once you ride in a pair of padded cycling specific shorts, you’ll never ride without them again! Padding - These have a built-in padding (called a chamois – pronounced “shammy”), which makes sitting on the bike seat a lot more comfortable and absorbs and evaporates sweat. Tight fitting – this stops fabric getting caught in the saddle (therefore safer), and also eliminates friction and chafing (comfort) and they’re aerodynamically far more efficient!
Women’s specific shorts There are a lot of Women’s specific cycling shorts available now. Things to look for are: • Women’s specific chamois (no seams in inappropriate places, and specifically designed for a woman’s shape). • A comfy leg-gripper: there’s nothing worse than a leg gripper that digs into your leg, so a good short will have a firm, but not tight leg gripper. Leg grippers prevent the shorts from riding up your legs. • Shorter leg length (usually women have shorter legs anyway, but it’s also a fashion thing)
You’ll be a lot more comfortable on your bike in cycling-specific clothing. You don’t need to have the latest kit, but here are some tips to make the ride a bit comfier, and possibly a bit faster!
What to Wear
What To Wear
Cycling shoes These are a good idea as you get more advanced in road or mountain biking, but certainly not essential – especially for beginners. But for those wanting to get a bit more serious, they can be the best investment you’ve ever made to improve your cycling! Cleat system – cycling shoes have a “cleat” on the bottom of them, which hooks into a pedal. Your foot is “clamped” to your shoe, so you have better control, and can pedal more efficiently by pulling up, as well as pushing down, on your pedal. Stiff sole – cycling shoes have a very stiff sole that can minimise possible foot discomfort. The stiffness also increases the power that you can transfer from your leg to your bike (energy is lost in a bendy sole)
Socks High tech fabric – moisture-reducing fabric can make cycling socks a better option than cotton socks – especially in warm weather. Higher ankle band – this can keep the ankles warm in winter (if worn under leg warmers) Tight fitting – the ankle band hugs your ankle, so no chances of getting caught in the chain!
Helmet There are plenty of choices in various price ranges with shapes, sizes and colours designed for women. So if you’re looking for an upgrade, pop into your local Avanti Dealer and look at what’s available. We recommend Specialized and Avanti helmets.
Sunglasses Again, certainly not essential, but a good thing to invest in. Not only do they protect your eyes from the sun, but also from any foreign flying objects that can hit your eyes (insects, debris from the road etc.) Cycling specific glasses are designed for maximum visibility and have more coverage so are definitely better than your average fashion specs.
What To Take Unless you’re going for a short ride in the neighbourhood, or one where you can walk home or call someone to pick you up if something breaks, we recommend taking the following:
• Don’t be afraid to signal or tell someone if you want to move left or right, or to pass someone. • If you pass an obstacle on the road (like a big pot-hole, or debris), try and warn the riders behind you by pointing to it. But importantly stay in control of your bike. • Try and keep as consistent pace as possible – rather than surging or suddenly accelerating/decelerating, it’s far safer to keep your pace as smooth as you can. One person slamming on the brakes in a bunch can lead to all sorts of trouble behind them.
Smooth Riding • 4mm, 5mm and 6mm Allen keys, used to tighten any clamping bolts which may loosen • Patch kit and a spare inner tube • Tyre levers • Tyre pump • Some kind of identification (so people know who you are in case of accident) • A couple of dollars in cash (for food or drink) • Nutrition including a water bottle and food • Mobile phone. This can all be easily carried in a small saddle bag under your seat
Riding Tips for Beginners Starting out training If you haven’t done much riding – or any riding – like anything, start slowly to begin with, and then gradually work your way up to longer times on the bike. A little bit, often, is always a good way to start.
Planning your rides • Where you ride obviously depends on where you live, but cycling is a lot more fun on quieter back roads with less traffic or off-road tracks. Heading out of a major city in rush hour on main roads is not what most people call fun! Map out your riding or training route first. And remember that distances that might not seem very far in a car, could be a marathon on your bike. If you can, try and map out your ride so that you finish the ride with a tail-wind – or a downhill, it’s always way more fun ending your ride with some assistance from the wind behind you. • Have a “set” route and time yourself occasionally. This is a good way to measure your progress.
• Whether you ride on the road or the trail, you want to keep your upper body motionless and relaxed. • Unless you’re standing on the pedals to climb a hill, the movement in your legs should be invisible from the waist up. • You need to pedal smoothly. This means a pedalling speed (‘cadence’) of around 60 to 90 revolutions per minute. Too slow a cadence and you have to push hard on a high gear; too fast a cadence and you bounce on your saddle. • On loose terrain turns, lean the bike and take your inside foot out of (off) the pedal if needed. • The steeper the descent, the further back you should place your weight on the bike.
Avoiding Punctures • Try to avoid riding through obvious hazards – like glass! • Roadside gutters often have heaps of debris and can increase the chance of you puncturing, so it pays to keep away from the rubble! • Rain can cause debris to float to the top of the road, instead of sinking in between the cracks, so you may puncture more in wet conditions. • Rain can also cause debris to stick to your tyre, so if you ride over a heap of glass, it’s a good idea to stop, and wipe your tyre (another handy use for gloves!). • If you’re having a rotten run with punctures, which can happen in winter pop into your local Avanti store and ask them for a slightly heavier, puncture resistant tyre that can give you more protection. We recommend Specialized and Kenda Tyres • After each ride, check your tyres for any debris and clean it off. • But you can’t avoid them ALL the time...so.... For details on how to repair your tyre if it does go flat refer to page 25.
Riding Buddies • Riding with other people can be a great motivating factor. It’s good to mix it up a bit if you can– a few rides on your own, a few with other people. • It’s also good to ride with other people to practice riding in groups and controlling your bike with other cyclists really close - especially if you ride on the road.
Riding in groups • As you gain more experience, try to keep at least a bike length between you and the rider in front of you. This gives you an “out” if something happens to them. • Sometimes it pays to stay either side of the rear wheel of the rider in front of you too – just an extra bit of room for you to move if they make some sudden moves. 42
Travelling With Your Bike
Travelling with Your Bike By car There are a few options for transporting your bike with your vehicle. The decision on what rack or carrying device to buy or use is dependent on a few things also. They include: 1. How often do you transport the bike? If you only need temporary or occasional transport, maybe an affordable or basic system is adequate. If you need something on a daily or weekly basis, you might want to invest in some thing that will withstand the workload over a longer time period. 2. Is there more than one bike? With the extra load applied to a rack, invest in a good system. Some are better designs than others, take your time and tell your dealer your needs. Just watch your packing skills if loading more than one bike at a time. Take care not to scratch paint or have bikes rubbing together, especially tyre sidewalls! 3. How big is your vehicle? If you have a large vehicle, you may be able to get away with simply laying the bike in the rear of a station wagon or in the rear of a van. Or if you have boot or trunk, it may just take some time in removing the wheels, wrapping the bike in a blanket and lying wheels on top of the blanket. Watch that the rear derailleur doesnâ€™t knock on anything and displace your gears. 4. Shape of vehicle. Your vehicle or your lifestyle will have an impact on your rack system also. If you have a wagon or SUV that the rear door needs to open regularly, maybe a tow bar rack is not the answer. You may need to look at a roof rack system. 5. Ease of mounting the bike on the vehicle. This should also be considered when purchasing a rack. If you have a high roofed vehicle, you have to consider the disadvantages of a roof rack. E.g. Extra fuel consumption, loading of bikes, bikes staying clean and overhead clearances. If your bike is tow bar mounted, be careful not to place wheels or tyres directly next to the exhaust pipe, this can quickly cause tyre damage and in some cases the inner tube to explode. 6. How does the bike attach to the rack? The tow bar mounted rack is simple and can have several versions. They can come with lock down clamps, hooks or bars that you need to tie down with bungy cords. Roof racks come mainly in two forms. A fork mounted system where the front wheel is removed and the fork is quick release mounted. Or the entire bike is clamped by an arm that clamps to the down tube or seat tube and both wheels are clamped.
Avanti Express Warranty
Your Avanti Dealer is there to help you get the bike and accessories which are most appropriate for the kind of riding that you plan to do and to help you maintain your bike so you can get the maximum enjoyment from it. They have the knowledge, tools and experience to give you reliable advice and servicing. Your Avanti Dealer carries a variety of products so that you can have the choice as to which best meets your needs and your budget. To find your nearest Avanti Dealer or to learn more about Avanti bikes go to www.avantibikes.com or www.avantiplus.com.
The express warranties covering Avanti Bicycles are governed by the laws of the state and/or country where the Avanti Bicycle was purchased, and apply only to the Original Owner of the Avanti Bicycle from the date of original retail purchase from an Authorised Avanti Dealer.
Avanti Dealer / Warranty
Your Avanti Dealer
Lifetime Warranty on Avanti Frame and Rigid Fork 1. AVANTI warrants its Frames and rigid forks (excluding paint, decals and finish) will be free from material defects in materials and workmanship for the Lifetime of the Original Owner.
One (1) Year Warranty on Components and Accessories 2. AVANTI warrants that all standard components and accessories forming part of the Avanti Bicycle, as described in AVANTI’s standard specification, (including suspension forks, rear shock absorbers, wheels, drive train, brakes, seat post, handlebar and stem, paint, decals and finish) will be free from material defects in materials and workmanship for a period of 12 months from the date of original retail purchase of the Avanti Bicycle from an Authorised Avanti Dealer. Third party components and accessories forming part of the Avanti Bicycle may also be covered by a separate manufacturer’s warranty. 3. The warranty in clause 2 excludes consumable items such as tires and inner tubes.
Limitations on Avanti Express Warranties 4. The warranties in clauses 1 and 2 of this Warranty are given to the Original Owner only. They may not be assigned or transferred to any other person. 5. No warranties are given under clauses 1 or 2 of this Warranty where any defect, damage, malfunction or failure is caused or contributed to by any of the following things: (a) trick riding, ramp riding, downhill racing, jumping, aggressive riding, riding on severe terrain, riding in severe climates, riding with heavy loads, commercial activities, or any similar activities; (b) any neglect, abuse, misuse, lack of rider skill, improper operation, improper assembly, improper or lack of repair, improper or lack of maintenance, alteration, modification, or an accident; (c) any other abnormal, excessive, or improper use; (d) the installation or use of any components or accessories not originally intended for or compatible with the Avanti Bicycle as originally sold; (e) any assembly or maintenance of the Avanti Bicycle by anyone other than an Authorised Avanti Dealer; (f) any failure to follow the Avanti Bicycle’s owner’s manual; or (g) normal wear and tear, including the results of fatigue. Fatigue damage is a symptom of the Frame or Frameset being worn out through normal use, and is considered normal wear and tear. The Original Owner should regularly inspect the Frame or Frameset, and ensure that the Frame or Frameset is periodically checked by an Authorised Avanti Dealer for indicators of fatigue, stress or any other potential failure.
to extend or vary any warranties given by AVANTI. 17. If any provision of this Warranty is held invalid, unenforceable or illegal for any reason, the rest of this Warranty will remain in full force apart from such provision, which will be deemed deleted.
Avanti Express Warranties in Addition to Consumer Protection Laws
7. Despite anything else in this Warranty or any owner’s manual, nothing in this Warranty or owner’s manual will exclude, limit or modify any warranty or liability of AVANTI implied or imposed by applicable law, if to do so would be unlawful or make any part of this Warranty void or voidable. 8. The express warranties in this Warranty are in addition to any warranty that may apply under the Consumer Guarantees Act 1993 (NZ) or the Trade Practices Act 1974 (Cth) (Australia). 9. Subject to clauses 7 and 8, and to the extent permitted by applicable law, AVANTI’s sole liability for breaching any of the warranties in clauses 1 and 2 of this Warranty is limited, at AVANTI’s sole election, to AVANTI: (a) repairing or replacing the defective item; (b) supplying the equivalent of the defective item; or (c) reimbursing the cost of any of the above.
Making a Warranty Claim 10. To make a warranty claim, the Original Owner must present the complete bicycle incorporating the Avanti Bicycle to an Authorised Avanti Dealer immediately after the suspected fault or defect becomes apparent. The complete bicycle must be in assembled condition and accompanied by: (a) original proof of purchase, which identifies the Avanti Bicycle by serial number; and (b) evidence that regular servicing and maintenance has been undertaken on the complete bicycle by an Authorised Avanti Dealer, to show that the Avanti Bicycle has been correctly maintained. 11. AVANTI or its representative will assess the warranty claim and if accepted, will deal with the claim as set out in clause 9 of this Warranty. 12. All warranty claims must be made within the relevant warranty period referred to in clauses 1 or 2 of this Warranty. 13. The Original Owner will be responsible for all labour and freight charges incurred by AVANTI associated with a warranty claim.
6. Any attempt by any person to repair any defect, damage, malfunction or failure, other than an Authorised Avanti Dealer, will invalidate all warranties under clauses 1 and 2 in relation to the Avanti Bicycle.
18. In this Warranty: “AVANTI” means: (a) Avanti Bicycle Company Limited, for an Avanti Bicycle purchased in Australia; or (b) Sheppard Industries Limited, for an Avanti Bicycle purchased in New Zealand; “Avanti Bicycle” means a: (a) complete Avanti bicycle (including any component or accessory forming part of the bicycle); (b) Frameset; or (c) Frame, purchased from an Authorised Avanti Dealer; “Authorised Avanti Dealer” means a: (a) Avantiplus dealer authorised by AVANTI; or (b) any other Avanti dealer authorised by AVANTI; “Frame” means a bicycle frame; “Frameset” means a Frame and fork, whether the fork is a suspension fork or rigid fork; “Lifetime” means either: (a) the lifetime of Original Owner, where the Original Owner is a natural person; or (b) 80 years from the date of the original retail purchase of the Avanti Bicycle from an Authorised Avanti Dealer, where the Original Owner is not a natural person; and “Original Owner” means the first person to purchase the Avanti Bicycle at retail from an Authorised Avanti Dealer.
Exclusions 14. In no event will AVANTI be liable (whether in contract, tort, negligence or in any other way) for any loss, damage, cost or expense of any kind whatsoever, that is indirect, consequential, or of a special nature, arising directly or indirectly from the Avanti Bicycle. AVANTI’s total liability in relation to the Avanti Bicycle shall be no greater than the amount of the original purchase price paid by the Original Owner for the Avanti Bicycle. 15. Subject to clauses 7 and 8 of this Warranty, and except as expressly provided in clauses 1 and 2 of this Warranty, AVANTI gives no warranties in relation to the Avanti Bicycle, either express or implied, including but not limited to any implied warranties relating to quality, fitness for any particular purpose or ability to achieve a particular result. 16. This Warranty embodies the entire obligation of AVANTI in relation to the Avanti Bicycle accompanying this owner’s manual. AVANTI does not authorise or allow anyone, including Authorised Avanti Dealers, 48
Please ensure your Avanti Bicycle Technician completes these sections every service.
We recommend your Avanti bicycle gets serviced regularly by an Avanti Dealer.
First 6 Week Bike Service Check (Free)
Within 6 weeks of purchasing your bike - Bring your bike in for a FREE service check. The Avanti dealer will adjust your bikeâ€™s gears, brakes and ensure components are running smoothly (does not include replacement parts that may be required).
Avanti Bike Service Plan
Avanti Bike Service Plan
Work Done: At 6 months we recommend a full service. Your Avanti dealer at this point can evaluate the wear of your bike and will conduct a routine safety check. At 12 months and every 6 months thereafter your bike should periodically be serviced.
Recommendations: Service Technician:
This timeframe will depend on the frequency of your riding and the conditions you ride in and we recommend you discuss this timing with your Avanti dealer but six months is a good rule of thumb. These are important safety checks and very important to help prevent cycling accidents and ensure the life cycle of your Avanti bicycle is maximised. To receive maximum benefit and enjoyment out of your bicycle we recommend you follow our Avanti Bike Service Plan over the page. Servicing a bike on a regular basis not only provides you an ongoing safety check, but enhances the life of the bike as well.
6 Month Bike Service Check Dealer: Work Done:
Complete this section and bring this book in each time you get your bike serviced. Recommendations: Owners Name:
Address: Telephone: Avanti Dealer Store: Sales Personâ€™s Name: Colour:
12 Month Bike Service Check Dealer: Work Done:
Serial No: Recommendations: Size: Date of Purchase: 50
18 Month Bike Service Check Dealer:
Work Done: Recommendations: Service Technician:
2 Year Bike Service Check Dealer: Work Done: Recommendations: Service Technician:
2 Years and 6 Months Bike Service Check Dealer: Work Done: Recommendations: Service Technician: