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Culture & Gastronomy Summer in the mountains


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Culture & Gastronomy

路 Summer in the mountains


Enjoying Tirol Customs and tradition merge with experiment and modernity. Culture and cuisine give the region its identity. The smell and taste of Summer in Tirol can be enjoyed with all the senses. What does a place taste like? Where are traditions celebrated? How do you integrate the new? The cultural richness in the Heart of the Alps is just as powerful and diverse as the local cuisine – classic and down-to-earth, but at the same time creative, new, daring and bold. Gourmet chefs, master dancers, musicians of the highest calibre and Tirolean hosts are all united here.

¡ Summer in the mountains

On the following pages you will find inspiration for all things culinary and cultural. Enjoy the Summer in Tirol and experience your very own story.

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‘Cheering and the clanging of cow bells…’

Writer Ilija Trojanow opens his Tirol travel diaries. 11 July, Innsbruck Covered under the big brim of his hat, there is a grim look on the face of the bronze Andreas Hofer located not far from the Kaiserjäger Museum at the Bergisel in Innsbruck, the hand firmly gripped around the bunting. He stands there so safely and boldly one can imagine the dismay throughout the Tirol when the figure was blown off its pedestal in October 1961. Yet isn’t there a slight

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gentleness or even kind-heartedness that has been perceivable in the metal face for some time now? After all, the gigantic panoramic painting, which depicts the battle for freedom of 1809, has found its new home at the Tirol Panorama, a museum featuring architecture effortlessly combining concrete, wood and glass, the upper part of which boldly extends into the landscape. One feels dizzy when having a panoramic look at the 1000 sqm canvas showing exchanges of fire and battle scenes. The painting teems with freedom fighters and soldiers, while two monsignors in white robes calmly watch the deadly goings-on, in the middle of which, the ever so lonely, Andreas Hofer. The painted valley seemingly allows the

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viewer to look into the distance, and the 3D effect is reinforced by the branches and stones serving as an imaginary frame which step out of the picture, thereby creating a smooth transition towards the viewer’s perspective. 12 July, Bergisel It’s just a short walk up to the ski-jump structure which the architect Zaha Hadid makes rise out of the ‘mountain of fate’ like a big snake head, using the panoramic mountains as a backdrop. One’s gaze wanders, majestic landscape all around, in the direction of Hafelekar peak, dotted with hikers already in the morning hours, and down to the river

· Summer in the mountains

Inn, which meanders through the city in milky green. Now the view takes you downwards to the spectators’ area of the ski jump, which is strangely deserted during summer time, but very quietly, it seems, one can hear cheering and the clanging of cow bells. 14 July, lake Achensee – Zillertal valley The road zigzags up and down before it reaches lake Achensee, which glitters in shades of blue and green at Pertisau, while the water turns into a light turquoise in the distance. Upwards and downwards, for the sheer pleasure of the landscape, past lush-green meadows where Tyrolese Grey cattle can be

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seen grazing, lazy and indifferent, surrounded by slopes still reddened in places by Alpine roses, past small churches forming a gentle and white contrast. A more than 500-year old country inn located in the peaceful village of Stumm in the Zillertal valley welcomes its customers with shutters coloured redwhite-red. The bar parlour is pleasantly cool and provides a homely feel thanks to its wood panelling. There is no countrystyle kitsch aimed at pleasing the tourists, the interior is just as real as the food on the plates. The menu offers a balance between traditional and elegant dishes including both Tirolean Speck dumplings and molecular cuisine mainly using local ingredients. Rowanberry schnapps

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drunk as a nightcap fills the palate. When it comes to distilling schnapps, nobody seems to be as imaginative as the Tiroleans. Spirits are made from the most unusual plants. After a leisurely stroll one heads back to Innsbruck. The land rests and is saturated with sun. The summer idyll is disrupted only once by a deer appearing out of nowhere, when it crosses the road a few metres in front of the car, its dark eyes staring at the edge of the forest on the opposite side. 16 July, Innsbruck At the centre of town, one follows the tourists, strolling past the famous Golden Roof and the Helbling House,

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the kitschy gingerbread façade of which shines beautifully in delicate pink, before stopping off at one of the terrace or veranda cafés and treating oneself to an elderberry spritzer containing mint leaves shimmering in green. In order to say good-bye to the Tirolean capital, one pays a visit to the Hofkirche (Court Church) accommodating the cenotaph of Maximilian I, guarded by the Schwarzmander, 28 larger-than-life bronze statues, impressive and without any sense of humour. And in a corner one meets Andreas Hofer, who has found eternal peace at this place, for the last time. Here as well, the tomb statue has a firm grip on the flag.

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Ilija Trojanow was born in Bulgaria, grew up in Kenya and Germany, and now lives in Vienna. He published informative books and travel guides about Africa and India. His novel ‘The Collector of Worlds’ (‘Der Weltensammler’) about the British colonial civil servant and traveller Richard Francis Burton was a bestseller. Latest publication: Melting Ice (‘EisTau’, published by Hanser Verlag )

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Customs In tune – I can hear them in the distance. First I hear the clear sound of the bells, then the clattering on the cobblestone pavement. The flock approaches, the sheep flooding the narrow street like a surging, white wave, bleating loudly. What a spectacle! They are followed by cows, wonderfully decorated with mirrors, flowers, wreaths. Which one carries the most beautiful decoration? The cowherds follow

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proudly: The season is drawing to an end. They spent long days on the mountain. Today they want to celebrate the summer, enjoy the day to the full. I can also see the marching band coming, dressed in traditional costumes with dark lederhosen and embroidered belts. I hear their drums, the flugelhorns, clarinets. It marches through the street, to the rhythm of music. We set off.

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Customs in Tirol www.tyrol.com

Traditional costume festival The Gauder festival at the beginning of May is the largest customs festival in the Alps. www.zillertal.at Midsummer mountain fires Midsummer fires are lit in June to celebrate the longest day and the shortest night of the year. The midsummer fires of Ehrwald in the Zugspitz region are listed as one of the intangible cultural heritage of the Unesco. The end of Alpine summer September is the month of transhumance in Tirol. After around 120 days on the pastures, cows and sheep are driven down to the valley. Lavishly decorated, the parades herald the start of autumn. Schuhplattler folk dance The acrobatic Schuhplattler dance moves symbolise the man’s courtship of the woman in order to win her heart. Brass music 303 brass bands counting more than 7,000 members enrich Tirol’s cultural life with their performances.

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Culture at its best Enchanted – I am captivated from the very first moment. Cones of light are whizzing through the hall, bathing it in a bright glaring light. The music is swelling, drums are beating loud. Suddenly they appear like out of nowhere: Elegantly and gracefully they take over the stage. The dancers are whirling across the floor as light as a feather, transporting me

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into another world to the rhythm of the music. With tripping steps, big leaps, stomping feet, swirling arms and quick twists they are taking me on their journey. They are telling me their story. As the last bar fades, thunderous applause erupts, lasting several minutes. The spectacle leaves me enchanted. And not only me.

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Culture in Tirol www.culture.tyrol.com

Classical music Tirol hosts internationally recognised concert events such as the Tirolean Festival Erl, the Summer of Operetta in Kufstein, the Tirolean Beethoven Days or the Festival of Early Music. Contemporary Music Besides classical concerts Tirol also offers a range of modern musical events such as the Outreach jazz festival or the Klangspuren festival in Schwaz taking place in August and September. Tirolean Boys’ Choir The Wiltener Sängerknaben boys’ choir is Tirol’s musical ambassador all over the world. www.saengerknaben.com Dive into history The Tirolean State Museums at a glance, from the Court Church in Innsbruck to the new Tirolean Panorama. Contemporary art Innsbruck Contemporary is an association of 14 galleries and institutions of contemporary art. www.innsbruck.info Tirol turns into a stage Whether you prefer the Schlossberg Festival at historical sites, international cabaret shows or unique performances at the Tirolean Passion plays: summer time is festival time. Glittering crystal experience The Swarovski Crystal Worlds is among Austria’s three most-visited attractions featuring, among other treasures, 14 Chambers of Wonder created by international artists. www.kristallwelten.at

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Traditional cuisine Feel at home – Here, I arrive. Here, the most pleasurable days out in the mountains come to an end. Tired after the long ascent, we savour our mountain experiences to the full. Here, at the inconspicuous pasture hut, with its small kitchen and old pans, I find peace, even though I am surrounded by others. And yet I never feel alone. Everything tastes familiar, it’s like meeting someone again. The cheese made up here on the pasture is stored right next-door where it matures for weeks to develop its full aromatic taste of spicy meadow herbs. I can see the cows graze all around the pasture. Dark farmer’s bread gives off a delicious smell. Then, finally: The Kaiserschmarren, cut-up and sugared pancake, melts in my mouth, fluffy and sweet. The dish I like most, my absolute favourite. The only leftovers on my plate are a small tad of icing sugar and a little bit of apple sauce. A little bit of home.

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Gastronomy in Tirol www.culinary.tyrol.com

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Tirolean classics Tirolean Gröstl, often served in a pan and made of meat, potatoes and onion; Knödel: dumplings in all their variety; Kiachl: a fried dough pastry; Mus: mush dishes served in a pan, such as Melchermuas. Hearty Tirolean snacks A Tirolean snack consists of speck, smoked sausages, Tirolean grey cheese and Alp cheese, served with fresh Tirolean farmer’s bread and golden yellow butter.

Tiroler Wirtshaus inns Discover the origins of Tirolean cuisine at the roughly 130 inns carrying the Tiroler Wirtshaus seal of quality. Alpine pasture specialities Around 2,100 serviced Alpine pasture huts provide distinctive Tirolean mountain specialities.

Gourmet hiking The Tirolean gourmet routes combine the pleasures of hiking in Tirol’s mountains with culinary treats offered at different themed gourmet stations along the Tirolean herb, schnapps or cheese route.

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What is unique about the Summer in the Mountains of Tirol? What I associate mainly with the Summer in the Mountain of Tirol is the chance to recharge ones batteries, take a deep breath and kick back! After a busy winter season, summer is the period that allows me to find complete inner peace and draw energy and inspiration from the surrounding mountains of the Paznaun area.

Benny Parth Austria’s youngest toque-awarded chef

Where can the Summer in the Mountains of Tirol be best experienced? My forays into the mountains do not only allow me to fully relax. Often I return to the valley with all sorts of culinary treasures. It is astonishing how many wild herbs you can find in our mountains. They are invaluable to me as a gourmet chef. One of my great passions is the picking of berries which I use in the evening in my restaurant Stüva in Ischgl to make exquisite desserts.

Gourmet cuisine Perfection – How can simple ingredients turn into such a delight to the palate? Every course for itself is a treat worth indulging in: perfect creations that make your mouth water. We marvel at the exclusive dishes on our plates, conjured up by masters. We taste carefully, trying not to destroy the perfection, before

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giving in to the temptation: we succumb to the taste. Again and again we are surprised. As our dessert forks slowly split wafer-thin layers of chocolate to reveal creamy mousse underneath them, we are entirely thrilled and have another toast. We drink to pure culinary pleasure.

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Gourmet cuisine in Tirol www.culinary.tyrol.com

For gourmets The current Gault Millau edition lists 70 toque-awarded Tirolean Restaurants. Master chefs A particularly high number of toque-awarded restaurants can be found in Osttirol, at the entrance to the Zillertal valley, in Innsbruck as well as in the Ischgl and St. Anton areas. Reinventing classic delights The Tirolean master chefs’ recipe for success consists in reinterpreting traditional dishes and local products and giving them a new and modern touch. Culinary Way of St. James For three summers, international master chefs have been creating fine dishes from local produce for huts in the Paznaun area belonging to the Alpine Club. www.kulinarischerjakobsweg.paznaun-ischgl.com Awarded quality Tirolean schnapps is awarded numerous prizes year after year. Distilling schnapps has been a long tradition in Tirol. A high density of excellent distilleries can be found in the small village of Stanz near Landeck. www.tirolwest.at

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Photos

Imprint

p. 14 (r.) – Gerhard Klocker, born in Hard in 1962. He is a photographer and artist. He lives and works in the Austrian province of Vorarlberg and in Paris. So far, he has participated in different exhibitions in Austria and abroad and has published a series of books. www.gerhardklocker.com

Publisher: Tirol Werbung GmbH · Maria-Theresien-Straße 55 · 6010 Innsbruck · Austria Text, Editorial Department: Ilija Trojanow (p. 6–9); Tirol Werbung / Photo Credits: p. 14 (l.): – Bernhard Aichner; p. 17: – Michael Danner; p. 20: – Haubenrestaurant YSCLA Stüva; p. 21: – Henning Bode; Graphic Design & Typesetting: Circus – according to a Corporate Design by Wolfgang Scheppe Associates

p. 18/19 – Peter Sandbichler, born in Kufstein in 1964. Technical school of sculpting. Studies in New York, Vienna and Frankfurt. Participation in international exhibitions in the field of visual arts. For example: 1995 Biennale in Venice, 1996 New Museum New York, 2011 Taxispalais Innsbruck. He lives and works in Vienna. www.petersandbichler.com p. 1/24, 13, 22 – Bernd Uhlig, born in 1951. He has worked as a photographer since 1972 and lives in Berlin. While he started working in the genres of travelling, reports and portraits, he has come to develop an affinity for stage photography. He now focuses on opera, theatre and dancing, besides larger-scale exhibition projects. www.bernd-uhlig-fotografie.com

Also available Summer in the Mountains of Tirol – Sports & Activities Summer in the Mountains of Tirol – A natural & healthy world Summer in the Mountains of Tirol – Family experience

p. 2, 4/5, 11 – Maria Ziegelböck is a photographer for portraits and fashion, and she primarily works in the field where the two genres merge. She works for magazines, such as 10, Another, Art Review and many others. Many years of cooperation with the Gelatin artist group, the fashion designer Bernhard Willhelm and Fabrics Interseason. She lives and works in Vienna and Paris. www.mariaziegelboeck.com Curated by Andreas Schett / Circus

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Tirol Info Maria-Theresien-Straße 55 6010 Innsbruck · Austria +43.512.7272-0 +43.512.7272-7 info@tirol.at www.tyrol.com

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