Recipes for Memorial Day
PISTACHIO-ALMOND MACARONS p. 52
Display until June 20, 2016
FEATURING French Madeleines Spring Fling Crumble Pie Chocolate Ganache Macarons
Image Thalia Ho
TIMELESS MADELEINES Makes 12
hese elegant French desserts resemble a delicate shell and are just as beautiful as they are delicious.
• 1 teaspoon baking powder • ½ teaspoon kosher salt • ¾ cup all-purpose flour, plus more for dusting • 2 large eggs • ⅓ cup granulated sugar • 1 tablespoon light brown sugar • 1 tablespoon honey • 2 teaspoons finely grated lemon or orange zest • 6 tablespoons (¾ stick) unsalted butter, melted, warm • Nonstick vegetable oil spray • Powdered sugar
Dough can be made one day early. Keep chilled.
1. Whisk baking powder, salt, and flour in a small bowl. 2. Whisk eggs, granulated sugar, light brown sugar, honey, and lemon zest in a medium bowl until smooth. Whisk in dry ingredients until just incorporated, then whisk in melted butter until smooth. Transfer batter to a pastry bag or resealable plastic bag and chill at least 1 hour. 3. Preheat oven to 400°. Lightly coat madeleine pans with nonstick vegetable oil spray and dust with flour, tapping out excess. Snip end off pastry bag (or 1 corner of resealable bag) and pipe batter into each mold, filling two-thirds full (you may have a little batter left over). 4. Bake madeleines until edges are golden brown and centers are puffed and lightly spring back when gently pressed, about 5 minutes for mini and 8−10 minutes for regular cakes. 5. Tap pan against counter to release madeleines. Dust with powdered sugar and serve warm. Recipe Courtesy of Daniel Bouluds, Bon Appetit
Image Karen Culp
Back Time IN
a large number of comBY SWEETOOTH DE- mercial madeleines are SIGN COMPANY produced today. In the 19th cenade- tury Jean Avice, who leines worked as a pastry chef are for Prince Talleyrand, French said to have invented tea cake the Madeleine by bakwith a distinctive shell- ing little cakes in aslike shape, with pale sti- pic molds. However in pes on the one side and Lorraine, it is believed a typical “bump” on the that Madeleine cookie other. They are thick in came from a young maid size, but light, soft, and named Madeleine Paulsmooth in texture similarmier, who used to work to a sponge cake. It has a for the Duke of Lorraine, buttery flavor but some Stanislas Leczinski in the traditional recipes also late 18th century. This include fine nuts, lemon cookie recipe, originally zest, etc. Here is a recipe inherited from Madeand tips about making leine’s grandmother, was Madeleine. recognized by Louis XV The origin of Mad- of France, who first tasteleine is linked with the ed them at the Chateau town of Commercy (in Commercy in Lorraine the Lorraine region in in 1755. Louis’ wife, Maeastern France), where rie introduced them to
the court and they soon became all the rage at Versailles. In the mid-20th century the cookie became famous through Marcel Proust’s 1923 autobiographical novel, “À la recherche du temps perdu” (‘Remembrance of Things Past’). Eventually Madeleines were chosen to represent France in the Café Europe initiative of the Austrian presidency of the European Union, on Europe Day 2006. Today Madeleine is a popular tea cake for café shops around the world.
Image: Lemon Madelines
PIE Image:Strawberry-Pistachio Pie
Image Jesse David Green
SPRING FLING CRUMBLE PIE 8 Servings
(about 6 cups) • 5 tablespoons tapioca starch • ¼ cup granulated sugar • 1 teaspoon finely grated lemon zest • 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice he balance of • ¼ teaspoon kosher salt strawberries • 2 tablespoons cream and pistacheese, room temperachios will ture leave you • 1 blind-baked Sister Pie feeling purely blissful. Crust, cooled • 2 tablespoons chopped CRUMBLE pistachios • ¼ cup raw pistachios • ½ cup all-purpose flour 1. Preheat oven to 350°. • ½ cup old-fashioned Toast pistachios on a oats rimmed baking sheet, • ¼ cup (packed) light tossing once, until goldbrown sugar en brown, 5–8 minutes. • 1 teaspoon finely grated Let cool, then finely lemon zest grind in a spice mill, or • 1 teaspoon poppy seeds finely chop with a knife. • ¼ teaspoon ground 2. Mix pistachios, flour, cardamom oats, brown sugar, lemon • ¼ teaspoon kosher salt zest, poppy seeds, carda• 6 tablespoons unsalted mom, and salt in a mebutter, chilled, cut into dium bowl. With fingers, pieces work in butter until no FILLING dry spots remain and • 2 pounds strawberries, crumble holds together hulled, halved if large
when squeezed. Chill while you make the pie filling. 3. Toss strawberries, tapioca starch, granulated sugar, lemon zest, lemon juice, and salt in a large bowl to combine. 4. Using a small offset spatula, spread cream cheese in an even layer over bottom of crust. Scrape strawberry mixture into crust, mounding into a dome. Sprinkle crumble over top, breaking up any very large pieces. 5. Place pie dish on a foil-lined rimmed baking sheet. Bake pie, tenting with foil if crumble starts to get too dark before filling is done, until crumble is brown and strawberry filling is bubbling around edges, 1½–1¾ hours. Let cool before slicing, at least 4 hours. Recipe Courtesy of Lisa Ludwinski. 5
ARTISAN CHOCOLATE: WHAT YOU'RE PAYING FOR
Here’s a look into how that $14 price tag breaks down. Meet Lonohana Hawaiian Estate Chocolate. The company is taking single-origin chocolate to a whole new level, working on every aspect of the cacao from farm to bar. BY ALICIA KENNEDY, Bon appétit “Very few companies globally do this kind of work, and here in Hawaii our ou’re standing in the structures for farming and manufaccheckout line, dying for ture represent probably the highest a piece of chocolate. As costs anywhere in the cacao-growyou look toward the spot ing world,” saysSeneca Klassen, a where a Hershey’s bar co-owner of the company located on has always reliably been, you notice O’ahu. that there are way more options and Lonohana’s 70 percent cacao some of them are $14. $14?!? Labels bar, made from just cacao and cane are printed with cacao percentages, sugar, retails for $14. The full-cost maps of countries, descriptions of of farmer operations is $25 per kiflavor notes—when did this happen? logram of cacao. High-quality cacao There’s “fair trade,” “organic,” “sinfrom other regions, Klassen tells me, gle-origin”? Sometimes, these can be goes for $7 to $9 per kilogram, and buzzwords used by companies to lure commodity cacao—what you’re getyou into paying higher prices for artis- ting in a Hershey’s bar—is $3.50 per anal goodies of dubious quality. Other kilogram. At Lonohana, they’re ustimes, the high cost of the bar reflects ing Hawaiian-grown cane sugar and a new way of doing business (which is solar power, making the cost of each good news for the farmers growing the bar in cacao, sugar, and power alone cacao.) So-called “craft” chocolatiers $2.35. Add on $1 for packaging, want to show us that the milky snack $2.50 for labor, and a $1.22 facilities is actually as complex as wine (yes, cost and a bar is $7.07. To make a terroir will come up—sorry!), though profit, it ends up at $14 for a bar you it’s never gotten the same reverence. can feel pretty good about eating.
Image: A display of gourmet chocolate
Image Eva Kosmas Flores
On the more commercial side of high-end chocolate is San Francisco’s TCHO, run by chief chocolate maker Brad Kintzer. When he was a student, he left the study of sugar maple biology to focus on tropical plants and ended up a candy man. The company (pronounced “cho”), whose bars retail for $6, is focused on educating both customers and Ecuadorian cacao farmers about flavor diversity and the realities of the labor-intensive bean-tobar process. “One of the things that’s always struck me is that many cocoa farmers have never even tasted chocowww.SiftMagazine.com
late,” he says. There are TCHO labs at their farms so that those in charge of growing, harvesting, and fermenting their beans are aware of the end product. “We’re looking to go from that classic 50 percent semisweet that has been the standard for chocolate and really take it to a new level,” he says. That cacao percentage has been the one thing most people understand when trying to determine which is the “best” chocolate to buy. All that number tells you is how much of the bar comes from the bean; it can be either cocoa butter or ground cocoa bean, so
it doesn’t really let you in on how intense the bar is going to be. Going for that 70 percent bar over Hershey’s (which contains 11 percent cacao) is going to give you more robust flavor, but whether that flavor is fruity, floral, or smoky depends on the terroir of the bean and the process of the chocolate-maker. But if someone is always saying they “hate dark chocolate” and doesn’t care about nuanced flavors, why should they be paying upwards of $8 for a bar? “The artisan, craft chocolate maker is probably, hopefully, going to be sourcing their beans in a way that they’re hunting down the highest quality, which often costs more—and also hopefully ensuring that the farmer gets a larger share of that price tag,” said former Le Bernardin pastry chef Michael 8
Laiskonis the creative director at the Institute of Culinary Education’s Chocolate Lab. For example, at TCHO, they’re paying two times the market price. So forget about the chocolate you ate as a kid and check out these smaller producers, because, as Simran Sethi writes in her book Bread, Wine, Chocolate: The Slow Loss of Foods We Love, the cacao you’re accustomed to has led to a marked decrease in biodiversity in cacao-growing regions. “If you’re paying $1.99 for a candy bar, you’re not going to be able to support much of anything except the bottom line of the big manufacturer, because the economics don’t bear that out,” she says. That bulk, commodity cacao used in the cheap chocolate you can pick up for Halloween handout is grown in Ghana Sift Magazine
Image Damien Lafargue Lonohana’s 70 percent cacao bar
and Cote d’Ivoire, from disease-resistant, highyield varieties that don’t have any of the various notes you’ll taste in a single-origin bar. “You’re not looking for terroir in your Three Musketeers or Twix Bar,” Sethi says, and that is an issue because eventually farmers will stop growing the specialty heirloom trees in favor of what sells. Did we just give you permission to eat more chocolate? We think we did.
Image: Tumeric Latte with Lemon Wedge
aking can be exhausting. That's why we've included this pick-me-up tumeric latte recipe. You're welcome.
• 1 cup cashew milk • 4 teaspoons finely grated fresh turmeric • 2 teaspoons finely grated palm sugar or raw sugar • 1 teaspoon finely grated fresh ginger • 1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice • 2 pinches of ground cardamom • Pinch of flaky sea salt • Lemon wedge (for serving) 1. Whisk milk, turmeric, palm sugar, ginger, lemon juice, cardamom, and salt in a small bowl until sugar and salt have dissolved 2. Let sit 5 minutes to let flavors meld. 3. Strain through a fine-mesh sieve into a measuring cup, pressing on solids to extract juices; discard solids. 4. Fill a glass with ice. Pour latte over and serve with lemon wedge. Recipe Courtesy of Rick Martinez, Bon appétit.
Image Alex Lau
A RECIPE FOR THE BOOKS: CHOCOLATEFRENCH MACARONS
with a blade attachment and pulse several times to aerate. Process until fine and combined, about 30 seconds. Sift through a flour sifter into a large bowl; set aside. 3. Make a meringue by placing the egg whites in the clean bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a whisk attachment. Beat on medium speed until opaque Makes 25 and foamy, about 30 e ou'll crave seconds. Add the cream these sweet of tartar, increase the treats time speed to medium high, and time and beat until the egg again. These whites are white in color desserts require skill and hold the line of the Image Romulo Yanes however are worth every whisk, about 1 minute. Image: French Chocolate Macarons bit of trouble. Continue to beat, slowly with Chocolate Ganache adding the granulated MACARONS MACARONS sugar, until the sugar is • 2 cups powdered sug- 1. Line two baking sheets combined, the peaks are ar with parchment paper; stiff, and the whites are • 1 cup almond flour or set aside. Fit a large pas- shiny, about 1 minute almond meal try bag with a 1/2-inch more. (Do not over• 3 tablespoons natural plain tip; set aside. whip.) Transfer the meunsweetened cocoa 2. Place the powdered ringue to a large bowl. powder sugar, almond flour, co- 4. Using a rubber spat• 1/4 teaspoon fine salt coa powder, and salt in ula, gently fold the dry • 3 large egg whites, at a food processor fitted mixture into the egg
room temperature • Pinch cream of tartar • 3 tablespoons granulated sugar GANACHE FILLING • 4 ounces bittersweet chocolate, finely chopped • 1/2 cup heavy cream • 2 tablespoons unsalted butter (1/4 stick), at room temperature and cut into cubes • Special equipment: You will need a pastry bag fitted with a 1/2inch tip.
whites in four batches until the dry ingredients are just combined. (The meringue will deflate.) 5. Transfer the batter to the pastry bag. Pipe out 1-1/4inch rounds about 1 inch apart onto the baking sheets, about 25 per sheet. Pick up the baking sheets and bang them against the work surface to help create the macaron base, or foot. Let the rounds sit at room temperature for 30 minutes to dry the tops and ensure even cooking. 6. Heat the oven to 350Â°F
and arrange a rack in the middle. Bake the macarons one sheet at a time for 7 minutes. Rotate the sheet and cook for
7 minutes more. Transfer the sheet to a rack to cool completely. GANACHE FILLING Place the chopped chocolate in a large bowl. 2Warm the cream in a small saucepan over
medium heat until it just starts to boil. Stir it into the chocolate without creating bubbles. Let sit for 1 minute. Add the butter and stir until smooth. Chill in the refrigerator until thickened but still spreadable, about 30 minutes. Pair macarons of similar size. Remove the ganache from the refrigerator. If you choose to pipe the ganache, transfer it to a resealable plastic bag and snip about a 1/2 inch off a bottom corner. Squeeze or scoop the ganache to about the size of a cherry (about 1 teaspoon) onto the center of a macaron half. Top with another half and press gently so that it looks like a mini hamburger. The filling should not ooze out the edges. Refrigerate, covered, at least 24 hours before serving. Recipe Courtesy of Chowhound. 11
"The smell of good bread baking, like the sound of lightly flowing water, is indescribable in its evocation of innocence and delight." --M.F.K. Fisher
Image Scott Grummett
Image Natalie Eng