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Trend Report |January ‘09


Trend Report January 2009

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Agenda Our Approach Economic Impact Trends: Style, Fashion and Product Spheres Summary and Implications

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Trend Report January 2009

Contents

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Agenda Contents What is our approach? Panel members Basic question set The panel’s take on fashion, beauty and hair in today’s turbulent times What is the economic impact? Emerging trends: Style Sphere Emerging trends: Fashion Sphere Emerging trends: Product Sphere Summary: The Economy, Beauty, Hair

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Trend Report January 2009

What is our approach?

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The focus of Atelier’s global trend analysis is qualitative intelligence. This intelligence will be supplied by a global network of leadingedge opinion formers rather than mainstream consumers.

Individuals are recruited based on their qualification as either: Active participants in contemporary culture; e.g., stylists, DJs, graphic designers, fashion designers Cultural commentators; e.g., bloggers/journalists who are currently writing about contemporary cultural trends

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The network will enable Atelier to monitor the current and future impact of leading-edge fashion tastes and behavior that will likely bleed into mainstream beauty habits/rituals. It helps the agency be ahead of the curve when understanding evolving consumer trends.


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Panel members Ophira Edut New York, NY Author, Designer

Brittany Thomas Orlando, FL Student, Blogger

Katie Greer Nashville, TN Caterer

Liz Song Courtney Sauve Los Angeles, CA Detroit, MI Photographer, Blogger Sales, Blogger

Jelissa Toro Miami, FL Hotel Administrator

Gia Tovar Chicago, IL Bartender

Nicole Stamp Toronto, CA TV Host, Blogger

Sarita Vasa Oakland, CA New Mom

Leora Edut New York, NY Stylist

Marcy Lopez New York, NY Sorority Founder, Health Professional

LC Carmanker New York, NY Designer


Trend Report January 2009

Basic question set

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1. Compare last year at this time with today and share what has changed in the world of beauty. 2. How have non-beauty issues (e.g., politics, economics, work) impacted your sense of grooming and style? 3. When you think of hair products and messaging, what most stands out? 4. Looking at larger cultural figures and movements (from people to social trends), what three have most grabbed your attention? 5. What shampoo and hair product stories come to mind? 6. What one hair/beauty/grooming item will you splurge on? 7. What one item could you not live without no matter what? 8. What hair product change might you make considering this economy?

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Trend Report January 2009

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The panel’s take on fashion, beauty and hair in today’s turbulent times

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Trend Report January 2009

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Things that stay constant Beauty Matters “It’s my self-expression”

Pleasure Matters “It has to be fun”

Hair Matters “It is where I can experiment and play”

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Trend Report January 2009

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Beauty continues to be a source of power and self-expression You can tell a lot about a lady wearing a beautiful shade of red lipstick. You may not even get a chance to lock eyes with her, but her red lips can be a sign of confidence. You made this conclusion without even speaking to her. She was able to express herself without even opening her mouth. Now that’s hot! Brittany Thomas

No matter what the economy, I’m going to present myself to the world, and I always want that to be reflective of how I’m feeling and who I am. Marcy Lopez

In a recession we’re forced to look better because it’s a survival of the fittest. No matter what we say, what you wear and how you look says a lot about you and your personality. I need to say I’m the best and put together and I care about myself AND my work. LC Carmanker

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Trend Report January 2009

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PLEASURE… life needs to be fun! It’s like modern-day Barbie. Women in their late teens and early twenties still like to play pretend. Courtney Sauve It has to be fun. All of this is about giving yourself a sense of fun and indulgence and pampering yourself. The idea of pampering has to be about total pleasure or it defeats the purposes. I don’t want anything to be taken away from the experience that’s been there. Ophira Edut

I used to make my hair smaller all the time and look tough but seeing other women with big puffy hair, it made me feel more comfortable to wear my hair big. I realized how attention-grabbing I could look and that was okay. Rather than look boring, I could be more flashy. I have big hair. I could pull out big bright colors. I can wear bright eye shadow without looking crazy. Rather than look more plain, I realized it was okay to go to the wild side. Nicole Stamp

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Trend Report January 2009

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HAIR is the most immediate reflection of who they are and how they express themselves Change is exciting. Hair allows change – having the flexibility of wearing it straight or wearing it curly. Sometimes I’ll go so long without doing it. Sometimes my hair will look way more sexy and a bit older. But I also love my hair when it’s curly. Gives me a whole different character. Blond and flirty. Very outgoing and playful. Jelissa Toro

Hair is something you can always change and have more fun. It’s just like another accessory. When you can’t go and buy a whole new outfit, hair is a way to experiment with fashion. Ophira Edut

After ten years I don’t want to think I need the same hair cut. I definitely want there to be change in my hair but also in my style. When you have a different haircut, it influences your clothing style. Sarita Vasa

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Trend Report January 2009

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What is the economic impact?

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Trend Report January 2009

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Streamlining extraneous beauty rituals I do my own hair. I found it difficult to spend so much money on something that I could do myself. Brittany Thomas

I think we may see less color. I color my hair and it’s so much work. It’s something I’m trying to cut out. I’ve already seen people in magazines going back to more natural colors. More browns. I think it will go back to more simple because people with less money will have less to spend. My hairdresser said she had a record number of blonds become brunettes this year. Brunettes have more do-it-yourself-at-home opportunities. LC Carmanker

I’ll look at what I have at home. I think twice before I spend. I look more for sales and deals. I’d never do anything at home in terms of coloring, but I might take eight weeks instead of six between colorings and cuts. Ophira Edut

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Trend Report January 2009

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Drawing on existing resources: Frugalista …defined as “a person who lives a frugal lifestyle but stays fashionable and healthy by swapping clothes, buying secondhand, growing own produce, etc.” This could become the nom de guerre of the “recession warrior.”

I think hard economic times create a need to be creative in looking good. How can I reaccessorize, how can I refashion things to work for me now? Being creative with a scarcer amount of resources. Sarita Vasa

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Even though I am not experiencing changes in my income, it’s part of a cultural thing where flashing your money or spending a lot of money on your outfits is poor taste. Knowing the economy could be worse and knowing everyone can be impacted makes me use makeup more sparingly. ... Innovative means you work with what you already have. Ophira Edut


Trend Report January 2009

Premium products prove themselves I used a fruit enzyme face wash made by Mychelle. It's a small company that makes natural products. A small bottle cost about $12...very small bottle...but because it was so concentrated, that bottle last me several months. It was absolutely worth the money because of its effectiveness and efficiency. I'm going to look for that face wash again, since I'm about to run out of the ineffective wash I'm currently using (as natural as it was). Liz Song

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Trend Report January 2009

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Emerging trends: Style Sphere Earth/global ethos

Personal authorities

Hunger for innovation

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Trend Report January 2009

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Earth/global ethos People who have been very closed-minded to being self-aware are now delving deeper into spiritual path, going to therapy, taking selfawareness seminars. ... I would like to see companies use their money, voice and participation in giving back and making a difference in the world. I would like my opinion to be heard some way. Leora Edut I love shopping and beauty and fashion, but the soulfulness of it versus the creativity of it. Ophira Edut

So many industries are impacted by human trafficking so anything related to beauty will be related. Maybe I can buy something for an affordable price but the product probably originated somewhere where that human traffic happens. Is this shirt or this lipstick worth me looking a certain way at the cost of a human life. I think this year will be a more conscious year so far as products that I buy. I’ll become more aware of who makes these clothes and gets the impact of buying this at this price. Liz Song

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Trend Report January 2009

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Personal authority: More influencers and influences

Influencers influence via long-term relationships (whether stylists, bloggers, friends or celebrities)

I am more interested in reading blogs. Interested in getting real people’s thoughts on products rather than magazines because they have to write good things. I’m looking for consumer feedback. Want to know if I’m spending my money it’s going to be on a solid purpose. Ophira Edut

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Trend Report January 2009

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Hunger for innovation Dressing different all the time is my hobby, so I want to spend money on products. But there’s not one thing [this year] I have to buy. No key item for the season. What excites me is we’re settling in to the recession mode and so what I think will happen is it will force designers to be more innovative and get people to spend the little money that I have. That’s what’s coming up and I’m excited for it.

If a specific trend comes out, then everyone takes it on. What comes to mind are when skinny jeans came out. And then everywhere there were skinny jeans. And if you weren’t wearing skinny jeans, you weren’t part of shopping. A trend comes out and so it’s everywhere…. That’s frustrating. You want to find something different for yourself. It’s been hard for me to find something I like.

LC Carmanker

Marcy Lopez

Hair products are no better this year than last year. They all promise shine or manageability. But they never seem to work. And women know that is why we spend millions of dollars on hair products looking for the right one and each year we fail. If one company came out with something that worked wonderful for my hair, added protein and manageability, I would use it all the time. They send people off to space but they can’t get shampoo right. It’s ironic that the technology exists to find anyone anywhere on your cell phone, or GPS systems that can find you, but we can’t find hair products that satisfy you. It would be great to have a shampoo that works. Brittany Thomas

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Trend Report January 2009

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Emerging trends: Fashion Sphere Focus on quality and sophistication

Demand for comfort

Personal eclecticism

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Heightened focus on Quality and Sophistication I don’t really buy trendy things because I know they’ll be out of style. I try to buy classy quality things. I’ll buy a black skirt because I like it. It will be something I’ll wear again and again. To me a quality classic piece is something that’s made well and something that I bought in, like Ann Taylor that has staple pieces. Pieces you can wear again and again. Here in Nashville we have H&M where you pay hardly anything for the clothes but they won’t hold up in lots of washes. Rather take the staples that I’ll wear again and again than something I’ll only wear once or twice. Katie Greer

I am getting bangs because I am really selfconscious about my age at work. These bangs can really pull a person’s look together. It’s clean and sophisticated. LC Carmanker I see myself having a little more businesslike wardrobe. Not being so casual, not that I am. But in Florida it’s popular to see young women throwing on jeans and going to the grocery store. I want a more businesslike look even going to the grocery store. People seem to take you more seriously in nice dress flats versus sneakers or flip-flops. (edited) Stepping up my game so even if I’m out

being casual, want a little bit of class with that. I think a lot of women see themselves doing that. I know a lot of my friends were incorporating a more grown woman look. You don’t want to wear your grandmother’s sweater but not your teenage sister's either. Brittany Thomas


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Heightened focus on comfort What excites me about how beauty has changed is now you see beauty in more shapes and sizes than even a year ago. I think it might be a Dove ad of women in all shapes and sizes embracing whatever shape or size they are. You have the multiethnic look. A lot of what attracts me in the women I see in the ads today, no matter what, they look confident and comfortable. Beauty lies much more in confidently sorting whatever you’re wearing rather than the opposite. ...

Awkwardness is the opposite of beauty. When you’re younger, a teenager coming into your own trying to figure out your fashion sense, a lot of what you wear is appropriated from your friends. What you think you should wear. You end up wearing what is a costume. What’s not you. When people look good is when they are wearing things they are comfortable in. Something that characterizes my sense of style. Sarita Vasa

Each year women are realizing that it’s okay to be themselves. Bobbi Brown and MAC are doing neutral looks. You want to express yourself, but you don’t want it to seem like you’re putting in a lot of effort. It should be about being yourself. Brittany Thomas

What surprises me is I’m definitely seeing fashion as having room for comfort. So it’s not only about being fashionable but it’s about being comfortable. Women for years, in shoes, high heels were always an option. Now you can find a lot of flats everywhere. It can be fashionable but comfortable as well. I see that in clothes as well. That both surprises and excites me. Marcy Lopez


Trend Report January 2009

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Personal eclecticism I think hard economic times create a need to be creative in looking good. How can I reaccessorize, how can I refashion things to work for me now? Being creative with a scarcer amount of resources. You can take your summer dress and just match it with some tights and boots and you can still wear it in the fall. So I think when it comes to seasons, that’s changing. So what was considered only seasonal you can mix it and wear it through the seasons. Marcy Lopez I’m seeing a lot of Asian and Latin American textiles integrated into fashion today. The Sartorialist (Blog) Selected as one of Time Magazine's Top 100 Design Influencers

Sarita Vasa

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Trend Report January 2009

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Emerging trends: Product Sphere Focus on ingredients

Search for science as support

Want multiusage functions

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Trend Report January 2009

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Heightened focus on ingredients If an ad is for a hair color and the model is using the hair color, I’ll look at the description and read what it is. If there’s something else, I like seeing the description. I like seeing the description as much as possible. Jelissa Toro We have to be more aware of what we are putting in all of our systems. People are becoming more health-conscious. There have been so many cancers and ways of getting cancer and people are looking at every single ingredient. Leora Edut

“The word “natural” or “Organic” isn’t enough for me. I like to know what special ingredients are in the product. I want to know what’s in the product that makes your hair that way. That’s why I buy the brands I do. I can look on the package and see what the ingredients are that protect my hair or make it soft. What natural ingredients are in it to make it work? ... I like to see the brand highlight something special… like this product has vitamin C and the product next to it doesn’t. I want to see something extreme. Gia Tovar


Trend Report January 2009

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Ingredient trends 2009 In 2009 the focus will no longer be just about who is green or all-natural, but about specific ingredients and their benefits:

Argan Oil: Replenishes hair and skin’s natural moisture

Myrrh: Stimulates circulation and has lifting effects

Acai: “The Fountain of Youth” – known for antiaging properties

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-3: Cosmeceutical that is being found more often in anti-aging products to fight fine lines and wrinkles

Acerola: Evens out skin tone and brightens collection Baobab: Anti-aging properties Probiotics: General wellbeing, digestive health Goji Berries: Fights free radicals and boost the immune system

Turmeric: Antiseptic, medicinal properties

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Trend Report January 2009

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Search for science as support

If you give people more information, they’ll make better choices. Healthy-looking hair is bullshit information. What does that mean? If they used scientific terms, people would go more toward the product based on what it does. Nicole Stamp What is most compelling and why? Products that have been established for a while and have some scientific background in them. What isn’t working? Cheesy marketing that promises results that are unattainable for most people. Gia Tovar

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Trend Report January 2009

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Want multiusage functions Probably my moisturizer is the one product I cannot do without. It’s very lightweight. Not only does it moisturize and serve as a base for my makeup but it also cleans out your pores. It’s doing double duty. That’s something I definitely look for. If I can get two products in one, I’m all for it. Katie Greer

Something that excites me is Smashbox has a cheek stain and a lip gloss – it goes on clear but changes according to your complexion. It goes with your body chemistry. It’s fun and interesting. Brittany Thomas What really surprises me is the emergence of multifunctional products. I'm excited by products that serve more than one purpose, like a foundation with sunscreen or firming agents. I love that technology has married so well with the cosmetic industry. Gia Tovar

I like Lush. They have these shampoo bars. And I’m using a seaweed one. They’re easy and small so they do the job and you can carry them around easily. LC Carmanker


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Beauty care’s Swiss Army knives 1. Carol’s Daughter Almond Cookie Body and Bath Oil functions as a bath, body or massage oil. 2. C. O. Bigelow’s cult classic Peach Nut Oil 18 in 1 Uses Liquid Soap is a natural low-foaming cleanser. 3. Korres Body Water works as a toner, a hydrating mist and a light fragrance. Spritz on hair or clothes to eradicate static electricity too.

4. An organic solid moisturizing stick, Revolution Organics All-Over Body Balm has many uses: it smoothes parched skin, cuticles, chapped lips, unruly eyebrows, fly-away hair and stretch marks. 5. Molton Brown Desert Bloom Ultrabalm heals chapped lips, elbows and heels; acts as a facial antifreeze on ski slopes; and seals split ends.

6. Twilight Freshface Glow by Fresh brightens and evens skin tone, concealing pores and small blemishes. Use alone for a natural glow or as a makeup primer. A dab can make shoulders gleam and tired knees look younger. 7. Posie Tint by Benefit adds a hint of pink to cheeks, lips, temples and décolletage. Rub into toenails to make them look rosier; smooth onto the back of hands for a youthful flush.

8. Charming votive glasses hold tea candles and do extra duty as wineglasses or bud vases (freeze them to remove excess wax.) 9. Elemis Body Brush is designed to exfoliate skin, stimulate circulation, rev up metabolism and help release toxins. Devotees claim that daily brushing will also reduce cellulite.


Trend Report January 2009

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Summary Economy doesn’t scare them at this point, but it impacts their thinking around fashion and beauty, specifically in searching for more quality, sophistication and innovation. If a product fits those areas, they’ll buy it. Heightened sense that beauty connects with morality, health, and science. Search for beauty products that empower them via connectedness to both ethos and innovation in ingredients, and usability.

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Trend Report January 2009

Summary

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The Economy “I personally am okay, but I am aware of all the repercussions.” It impacts them on more of a macro than a micro level. The young women on the panel seem to share one sense – that they are living within their means and having entry-level jobs, don’t feel as uncertain as heads of households. They are not immediately panicked. And they still see certain indulgences as worthwhile. They may skip visits to the salon, but they won’t skip buying hair products, even expensive brands.

It makes quality much more important. There is renewed sense that quality matters. If they have to live within more constrained resources, these panelists are aware of avoiding waste. Therefore, “quality” becomes a top-of-mind issue in all areas of their lives, especially beauty.

It has an important moral quotient. This economic recession is associated with moral failure among many players, from Wall Street to Madison Avenue. These women are particularly concerned about ways that the economy short-changes vulnerable actors, whether that's the environment, foreign laborers or other women. Similarly, if it is a moral issue, there’s more possibility for it to connect them rather than isolate them, allowing

them to join with likeminded people to find ways to make a better world and give meaning to everyday life, rather than to be a cause for doom and gloom.

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Trend Report January 2009

Summary

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Beauty “It’s all about better quality and better qualities” Innovation rather than acquisition. In both financial and aesthetic terms, the panel of women conveyed the sense that the era of conspicious consumption is over. More and more, they're focusing on using what they have rather than buying more. This connects to existing trends of DIY and personalization, but new economic realities also are viewed as potentially uplifting, tapping into one's personal reservoir of ideas as well as things.

A more serious/ sophisticated beauty ideal. There is a noticeable move from the youthful toward the sophisticated among these young women. Only two years ago, teen-style beauty was the ideal among women in their 20s; now they have a growing sense that beauty has a serious as well as playful side. At the same time, they are openly discussing sexuality as a source of power to be treasured rather than paraded. “Classy, not trashy” echoed across the interviews.

More influences as well as influencers. With communities like Facebook and LinkedIn now mainstream, women enjoy a range of global online and offline social networks. Each of these communities has their own set of influencers who offer more varied, nuanced human filters than traditional beauty media in helping women create their own sense of style. Equally important, each has key “issues” that serve as social glue. Whether the issue is the environment, child and sexual exploitation, or health, it has an

increasing impact on women's opinions of what is beautiful. Beauty is now defined with heightened moral attributes.


Trend Report January 2009

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Summary “Quality merchandise may go on sale, but you don’t bargain with quality”

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Hair Hair remains a critical part of a woman’s beauty regimen. Which means it is most sensitive to issues impacted by the economic downturn. Women are making fewer visits to the salon and executing more treatments at home. But when it comes to buying hair products, women are unwilling to give up quality for bargains. Additionaly, quality increasingly has a moral dimension, justifying the products' extra cost. It’s the opposite of frivolous.

Desire for more sophisticated branding. The women are frustrated with hair product advertising that focuses completely on abstract imagery rather than result-oriented and/ or ethical reasons for product and brand differentiation. This audience is eager for signs that both the product is the brand behind the product.

Ingredients enormously important. This was a huge issue for all the respondents. They want to know that the products they use on something as important as their hair will deliver concrete benefits and short term gains (softness, etc. ) won’t lead to long-term problems (thinning hair, etc.). They are vigilant about reading the ingredients of their shampoos and conditioners.


© january 2009

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