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Summer Volume 39 2018

Aesthetics Practitioners Journal is the official publication of the Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network PTY LTD.

Not all Plasma is the same

APJ 1


IN THIS ISSUE SUMMER VOLUME 39. 2018 APAN INDUSTRY REPORTS, NEWS AND PRODUCTS

18

8-9

CEO’S REPORT

100-101

AESTHETICS BULLETIN

46-49

PRODUCT INNOVATIONS

REGULATIONS, STANDARDS AND EDUCATION 18-20

WHAT SUPPORT SHOULD AN ASSOCIATION OFFER YOU IN TODAY’S CHANGING WORLD?

52-55

HOW TO READ A COSMETIC INGREDIENT LABEL

77

82-83

THE RISE OF THE CLINICAL APPROACH AND ITS IMPACT ON CLIENT CARE

28

90-91

CONTINUING PROFESSIONAL DEVELOPMENT PROGRAM (CPD)

GAINING NATIONAL REGISTRATION FOR YOUR COSMETIC TATTOO QUALIFICATION

SEMINARS, EXPOS AND CONFERENCES

BUSINESS, PERSONAL AND PROFESSIONAL DEVELOPMENT

24-26

22-23

AUSTRALASIAN SOCIETY OF COSMETIC DERMATOLOGY (ASCD) SYMPOSIUM 2018

38-40

14TH NATIONAL LASER AND COSMETIC MEDICINE CONFERENCE

124

APAN CONFERENCE 2019

64

EXPLORING THE HUMAN FACTOR TO BUSINESS GROWTH

30-31

SO YOU WANT TO LAUNCH YOUR OWN AESTHETICS BUSINESS?

44

SOCIAL MEDIA AND FINDING THE SECRET SAUCE

96-97

THE HUMAN AND DIGITAL INTERACTION

116-120

BEING FULLY COMPLIANT HAS NEVER BEEN EASIER

TIPS FOR BETTER BUSINESS

64-66

NEW MEMBER BENEFITS – ST GEORGE BANK

UNDEFEATED

72-73

WARNING: REVIEW OF CASUAL EMPLOYMENT ARRANGEMENTS

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78-79

121


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SCIENTIFIC RESEARCH, TREATMENTS AND TECHNOLOGY 28-29

SUN PROTECTION FACTOR – THE UNTOLD STORY

32-34

THE ON-GOING GLYCATION STORY

42-44

THE ROLE OF REACTIVE OXYGEN SPECIES IN SKIN AGEING

56-57

94-95

MYTHS AND THE TRUTHS ABOUT SUNBURN

A NUTRIENT SPECIFICALLY DESIGNED TO PROTECT YOUR SKIN

Advertising & Marketing Tina Viney Phone: (07) 5593 0360 info@apanetwork.com Fax:(07) 5593 0367 Mobile: 0412 177 423

102-103

DISCOVERING THE MOST POWERFUL NUTRIENTS THAT ACT AS SKIN CATALYSTS

106-108

92-93

Accounts Payable Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network PO Box 5448, Q Super Centre QLD 4218

Publisher TEV Group Pty Ltd

THE POWERFUL INFLUENCE OF AROMAS

84-85

ARE YOU GIVING YOUR CLIENTS A DOPAMINE BOOST?

Typesetting & Graphics Angus Thompson TEV Group Pty Ltd

98-99

104-105

85-87

Printed For Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network ACN: 136 987 169 ABN: 25 136 987 169

Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network PO Box 5448, Q Super Centre QLD 4218 Australia

HEALTHY BEAUTY AND THE CHANGING PERCEPTION OF BACTERIA GINGER MAKING NEW HEADLINES

Editor Katherine McCann (07) 5593 0360 info@apanetwork.com www.apanetwork.com

MALE AND FEMALE SKIN – A COMPARISON POMEGRANATE JUICE: THE HEALTHIEST JUICE ON THE PLANET

Design & Production Artwork and Editorial TEV Group Pty Ltd Unit 7D 76-84 Robina Town Centre Drive, Robina QLD 4226 Australia Phone: (07) 5593 0360 info@apanetwork.com Fax:(07) 5593 0367 Mobile: 0412 177 423

Journal Advisory Board Terry Everitt - Education Features Wendy Neely - PR and Marketing Dr Douglas Grose Scientific Content Caroline Nelson - Business Features National Advisory Council John Fergusson Terry Everitt Chris Testa Gill Fish Vanessa Kirkham Carole Jackson ISSN: 1836-9812 Pint Post Approved [100000257] Circulation 6900

110-115

SCIENTIFIC NEWS Summer Volume 39 2018

Aesthetics Practitioners Journal is the official publication of the Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network PTY LTD.

Front Cover ARC Aesthetics Australia 1300 862 685 sydney@catherinehottes.com.au www.catherinehottes.com.au For further information see pages 14-17

Not all Plasma is the same

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The Aesthetics Practitioners Journal is the official publication of the Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network Pty Ltd, a network organisation established to service the needs of the aesthetics industry in the area of professional development and business networking. The Aesthetics Practitioners Journal is published quarterly for the benefit of its members and subscribers and aims to inform and educate its members on better business practices and industry advancements. All editorials and articles that are submitted for publishing remain the property of Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network Pty Ltd. Reproduction in part or in whole is not permitted without prior written authorisation by the publishers. Every effort has been made to ensure that all scientific and technical information presented is as accurate as possible at the time of publishing. However, members and readers are highly recommended to also seek external advice from their accountant, registered financial adviser or healthcare professional for their recommendations. APJ 5


EDITOR’S NOTE Katherine McCann

WELCOME TO THE SUMMER issue of APJ and the last issue for the year – where has the time gone? As a businesswoman and a mother, I have several areas of responsibility. Keeping a small business in business isn’t easy! Focusing on establishing a constantly-growing client-centric business means that I have to continually learn and renew my approach, not just on a technical level as a practitioner, but also in understanding the ever-changing consumer mindset, while constantly ensuring the needs of my clients and their experience, remain at the forefront of my business agenda. Meanwhile, my family also needs my care and my undivided attention when I am with them. In that environment, my aim is to focus and nurture my three precious children and instil character-building values that will serve them beyond adolescence to become responsible and well-balanced human beings who actively contribute to society and add value to those around them. I am sure, many of you can relate to the pressure of trying to achieve that illustrious work/life ‘balance’, knowing that commitments can be gruelling; but being in a position of responsibility for others also stretches us to seek workable resources to grow, achieve our goals all while continuing to develop.

Attributes such as determination, resilience and reflection provide us the ability to analyse, or step back and take an objective perspective when an easier option would be to fall in a heap or have a meltdown - especially when the going gets tough and life throws in a few multiple curve balls. Looking back over the year, its important to take stock of the small wins, the goals we have achieved, the milestones we have reached and remember to be grateful for the pressures, because while they can break us, they also stretch us and often highlight how we perform under pressure – all of which is important in order for us to evaluate and maintain that forward momentum. As I say to my children, despite what goes on, or what happens to us, much of which can be outside of our control, the important lesson is that the only real choice we have is how we respond to these situations rather than how we react. This pivotal action can shape our outcome, provide additional context, or give us back some sense of control. It can also help us take stock and be able to pragmatically look at a way to move forward and gain from the lessons we have been given. What I love about our APJ Journal is that we try to strike a good balance between stretching your knowledge and education, while also offering you articles that deal with these human conditions – and by that I mean ‘stuff’ that happens in real life and that helps you gain inspiration for survival and continued personal growth. We strive to keep it real and as an organisation that cares, we feel its important not just to focus on professional and business development, but also present articles that will support your personal development, as it is important to know that you are not alone in this big wide undulating world of business. When planning each issue of APJ, we seek to present you with articles that deliver solid educational content, as well as those that address personal growth issues head-on and help you strengthen your ability to gain and select the right tools to successfully blend the line between work and life. Burnout in our industry is a very real phenomenon. As we grow, we need to make smart hiring decisions and delegate effectively if we are to survive for the longhaul, so in the mix of content we include, scientific developments, new techniques and technologies, business strategies, improving people skills, consumer trends, regulations, industry news and personal development articles designed to restore your equilibrium. As we come to the end of a year, please consider these eight pillars and identify your strengths, but also look at areas that may require further development. Take advantage of existing experiences, or ideas and customise what can become useful to you, or implemented to better support your business, or strengthen your personal and professional position.

fi

@apan.page

k.mccann@apanetwork.com www.apanetwork.com APJ 6

Over the next few months, I do hope you make time for a total break and engage in some frivolity - make time for fun, laughter and enjoy that well-deserved vacation in order to properly recharge – you know you deserve it! With the coming festive season my best wishes to you and your loved ones and I look forward to seeing you all next year for an even bigger and brighter 2019!


OUR REGULAR APJ CONTRIBUTERS TERRY EVERITT Terry Everitt is regarded as a ‘Master Skincare Professional’ due to his extensive knowledge in the art and science of skincare. A very competent educator and regular lecturer on aesthetic and medical conferences where he presents up-to-date information from an evidence-based scientific perspective. Terry is the Director of Aesthetic Educators Pty Ltd. To contact Terry you can email him at aestheticeducators@gmail.com.

CAROLINE NELSON Caroline Nelson is a beauty industry expert with over 40 years industry experience. She specialises and is passionate in helping clinics and spas develop their brand, improve productivity, and increase bottom-line profit. To learn more about her step-by-step program for salon spa success visit www.SalonSpaBusiness.com or phone 041 0600 440.

GAY WARDLE Gay Wardle is a well-known multi-awarding winning industry expert and a renowned lecturer who conducts advanced skin analysis training for businesses and their staff on all issue pertaining to skin science. If you would like you and your staff to undertake training with Gay please contact Gay on 0418 708 455 or book online at www.gaywardle.com.au. You can also email her on gay@m-da.com.au.

JACINE GREENWOOD Jacine Greenwood is an internationally recognised educator who is known within the industry for her up-to-date knowledge and her ability to deliver training in an easy to understand method. Jacine holds six Diplomas, including a Diploma of Cosmetic Chemistry and a Bachelor of Nursing. Her knowledge is highly respected in the cosmetic industry. With over 22 years experience in the industry and a background of cosmetic formulation, Jacine has an immense knowledge of current trends in research and new developments in the industry. Contact her on 07 3807 1429 or email jacine@roccoco.com.au.

DR ZAC TURNER Dr Zac Turner has a broad medical background specialising in regenerative and aesthetic medicine. Aesthetically, Dr Zac feels that a natural look is best, and truly believes that his ‘less-is-more’ approach. Dr Zac is involved in both the men’s health and preventative health space. He sees prevention and body optimisation as the ultimate way to prevent chronic disease, obesity, and many other conditions. He has owned and is currently involved with clinics in the holistic health arena and believes that through an holistic assessment of someone’s health we can enable them to live longer, healthier, and happier. Contact Dr Zac by Email: zac@drzac.co.

TRISH HAMMOND Trish Hammond is an award-winning blog and social media expert and the director of Plastic Surgery Hub. She is renowned for her skilful writing and interviews in all facets of the social media space. Her company specialises in the Aesthetics, Cosmetic Surgery and Cosmetic Medicine industry sectors for which she provides personalised and comprehensive services to help businesses communicate powerfully, grow their brand and capture new clients and patients. If you would like to speak to Trish about your blogging needs please contact her on 0429 264 811 or Email info@plasticsurgeryhub.com.au.

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Being negative only makes a difficult journey more difficult. You may be given a cactus but you don’t have to sit on it. — JOYCE MEYER

Tina Viney A message from the CEO Dear Colleagues and friends

RECAPPING WHAT HAS HAPPENED THIS YEAR

What an amazing and eventful year this has been!

We put forward a submission for change to the WA Radiological Council, which eventually led to the changes in the laws allowing non-medical qualified practitioners to be permitted to operate a laser (subject to the new qualification and licencing requirements).

We have been very busy on the regulatory front. These are very important tasks, albeit heavy and time-consuming, but they are essential and we are determined to remain consistent in making sure our industry has a strong voice for change with solutions that better serve us.

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While this is a step forward it is fraught with challenges, as completing one’s licensing hours is a costly exercise and it


must also be supervised by an approved licensee by the WA Radiological Council. AACDS is providing a pathway for this and I understand several trainers from other States have helped to provide solutions, but I believe it will be a while before a substantial number of practitioners will be able to gain their licences. Following WA, ARPANSA released a draft for National Standards for Laser/IPL and LED and we were requested to put forward our submission with our recommendations of what will best serve our industry. I believe that this review will take some time to be finalised as it is still a work-in-progress. Later in the year we were involved with another submission for a Case for Change in Queensland when the Drugs and Poison’s Bill was up for review. We presented a strong Case for Change bringing the regulators up-to-date with new educational advances in our industry and the on-going need for the use of topical anaesthetics for some of our practices. As the industry continues to grow and become more competitive, qualified practitioners are seeking recognition and a point-of-difference from others within the industry who are choosing to perform advanced treatments with little or no formal training or qualifications, yet still call themselves dermal therapists, cosmetic tattooists, or laser practitioners. As part of APAN’s ARAP and CTARP registration initiative we also introduced a much needed CPD (Continuing Professional Development) program to support our ARAP and CTARP Registered Practitioners. To achieve recognition through these national classifications, practitioners must submit their qualifications for assessment. Those who meet with the required merit criteria will be awarded registration at the appropriate level and they then will be included on the National Register, as well as given certificates and documentation to promote their recognition. While ARAP and CTARP members were required to present evidence of their on-going professional development, as of this year they will be required to comply with the appropriate CPD points to retain their registration. AN ADVANCING INDUSTRY MOVING FORWARD I feel so privileged to see more and more highly committed therapists pursuing their professional development with a strong passion and drive for progress, often despite their heavy workload. Such dedication really touches me and gives me courage to push forward and continue to strive in defending at a regulatory level, the rights for the industry to practice more advanced modalities. I saw a beautiful quote the other day “A moments insight is sometimes worth a life’s experience.” What an amazing statement! Indeed, I am so encouraged to see wonderful talented individuals, some of them already highly accomplished, yet humble enough to have insight about the future of their profession and strive for even higher educational levels to improve their competence and treatment outcomes. One of the most rewarding and humbling experiences for me is to mentor and champion these amazing individuals – both men and women and watch them transform into confident and highly skilled practitioners, constantly raising the level of clinical outcomes and in the process raise the standards of the aesthetics industry. I feel so privileged to encourage and support them on their journey and become an inspiration to others who are also seeking to follow in their footsteps. It is also interesting that many of these individuals are

working extremely hard and sometimes sacrificially dedicating their spare time to improve themselves, yet do all this with a true spirit of humility. From my position in working in governance over the past decade, I see amazing changes coming into effect in our industry, but it will be those who love learning and make it a way-of-life who will shape the future of our industry as a credible and noble profession. We need to view education as our friend and not seek the shortcuts just to gain a “quick buck”. Building a solid reputation is like laying a strong foundation to a building – the more solid the foundation the better it will withstand pressure and the longer it will survive. And so it is with our profession, our practices need to be based and supported by evidence-based science if we are to compete with the ever-growing cosmetic medicine sector that is also servicing consumers in skin and age management. THE COMING YEAR

In 2019 APAN promises you two more amazing conference programs with an exciting new format, double the speakers as we seek to help support your success. If you are a current APAN member, I want to extend my sincere thanks for your support and confidence in us, it is very much appreciated and you can expect more for your membership next year. Please remember to contact us on our Members Hotline 07 5593 0360 for any assistance you may need. We are always here for you. If you are not a current member ask yourself this: • Do you believe that our industry needs a strong voice to defend, and protect your needs for a better future? • Can you benefit from having your credentials formally recognised by an independent peek body and help promote your credibility and expertise to the public? • When seeking regulatory, Industrial relations, professional and business support can you benefit from a credible source of professional advice that can give you the right answers, take care of the guesswork and give you peace of mind? If you believe there are areas that are valuable to you then APAN can guarantee you the right professional support. Membership is tax deductable and you are guaranteed accurate, professional care. We would love to welcome you into our community of practice. Please visit our website www.apanetwork.com or phone APAN 07 5593 0360 and speak to us for further details. As we come to a close of another year, on behalf of APAN and our team I would like to extend my best wishes to you all and may 2019 bring you joy, love and success to you and your loved ones.

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ADVERTORIAL

CAN YOU USE NEW ADVANCED SKINCARE TECHNIQUES AND EQUIPMENT TO THEIR FULL POTENTIAL? WITH THE RAPID advances in our aesthetics industry you can certainly be forgiven for feeling the pressure. There’s the pressure to keep up with new technologies and the pressure to meet the increased treatment expectations of your clients.

the Australian Society of Plastic Surgeons (ASPS), Beyond Good Health Holistic Medical Clinics, cosmetic physicians, education and industry bodies nationwide.

Clients now often expect you to be able to tell them, with a degree of certainty, what measurable outcomes they will receive from your treatments. Have you ever wondered whether you have the skills and knowledge to fully understand these new skincare technologies and equipment? If you’re feeling the pressure to keep up, you’re not alone.

Analyse and treat the skin through advanced techniques such as laser, IPL, and photo rejuvenation

Provide non-surgical cosmetic treatments for dermatological disorders and diseases including acne, eczema, and psoriasis

Understand the interconnection between the vascular system, nervous system, endocrine system, gut health and inflammation

Manage skin integrity for complex patients, including those affected by wounds, scars and diabetes

With this in mind the Australasian College of Health and Wellness (ACHW) has developed its tertiary-level degree programs. ACHW strives to equip you to meet the challenges of a rapidly changing aesthetics industry.

Understand the psychology of clinical aesthetics, health and wellness

An affordable investment in your future ACHW teaches both the theory and evidence-based practice behind advanced procedures. Graduates are equipped to extend their current services to a higher level of skin correction, anti-ageing and wellness outcomes in both skin and body. With the Australasian College of Health and Wellness being an approved FEEHELP provider, studying a degree may be more affordable than you think. Upfront payment options are also available. ACHW degrees are accredited, and recognised by the Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network (APAN), APJ 10

Gain confidence in advanced aesthetics techniques ACHW’s experienced facilitators will equip you with both the theory and practical knowledge you need in the rapidly growing aesthetics industry. By gaining a degree you’ll learn how to:

Upon completing the Bachelor of Applied Health Science (Clinical Aesthetics), you’ll be equipped with specialised skills to work alongside dermatologists and plastic surgeons. Get recognised for prior experience and learning If you have previous study, or have relevant experience in the dermal, beauty, aesthetics or health areas, you may be eligible for credit through Recognition of Prior Learning (RPL). With RPL you may be able to save time and cost on completing a degree. Multiple entry pathways The Australasian College of Health and Wellness welcomes students from a range of backgrounds, and offers multiple entry pathways. ACHW considers documentation which demonstrates your academic and time-management skills, including from formal studies, research or workplace activities. Find out more ACHW can provide you with a personal consultation on what a degree could mean for you. The Admissions Team can advise you on any of the questions you may have, from entry requirements to flexible study options. To arrange a consultation, simply email admissions@tac.edu.au or call 1300 227 603. Alternatively, visit to www.tachw.edu.au to get a course guide.


ES K N! TA E IN OP 19 W 20 NO Gain the edge with an accredited degree in Clinical Aesthetics. • Flexible study options • FEE-HELP available • Recognised by APAN and the Australian Society of Plastic Surgeons

Get your free course guide: Email admissions@tac.edu.au or visit tachw.edu.au Australasian College of Health & Wellness Accredited higher education provider specialising in the discipline of applied health science. MHM Higher Education Pty Ltd; ABN 16 139036 721, trading as the Australasian College of Health & Wellness; TESQA ID PRV13002; an approved FEE-HELP provider; Level 21, 580 George St, Sydney NSW 2000.

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RESULTS YOU CAN BE PROUD OF

Cellbone offers an extensive range of innovative cosmeceutical skincare uniquely formulated using premium, potent and patented ingredients. Comprehensive clinical studies have demonstrated the efficacy of Cellbone products that combine high percentages of natural plant extract and active cosmeceuticals, exclusively formulated in the USA under stringent quality control.

Cellbone offer an extensive range of

9 distinct product series to suit specific skin requirements and successfully treat a variety of skin conditions.

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Cellbone are highly recommended internationally by dermatologists, plastic surgeons, cosmetic physicians, nurses and other professionals in the Aesthetic Industry. With Cellbone you will experience fast, visible improvement in clarity, tone, texture and firmness of the skin. Client loyalty will become so easy.


TAKE YOUR SKIN TREATMENT RESULTS TO THE NEXT LEVEL?

CELLBONE

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• Highly Affordable without compromising on quality

• Easiest way to grow your business

• Highest concentration of actives

• These products are only sold through approved stockists and clinics - no internet sales

• Clinical results guaranteed • Clients love it

We offer excellent education, as well as proven treatment protocols for advanced results.

COSMEDICELL TECHNOLOGIES 07 5580 0403 cellboneordersau@gmail.com www.cellbone.com.au

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COVERSTORY

MAKING THE STAND FOR QUALITY IN PLASMA TECHNOLOGY INNOVATIVE and always striving for standards that can support best practice, Catherine Hottes is making waves and excelling within the aesthetics industry.

APJ Q1: Catherine share with us a little about your background and what aspect of your work are you most passionate about?

Constantly committed to her own education and working to perfect quality treatment outcomes Catherine is always seeking ways to introduce leading technologies to enhance her practice.

My journey in this industry started 25 years ago and very early on I realised my passion was in skin therapy, so I pursued training and in improving my skills and knowledge through on-going professional development. I am a qualified laser practitioner and hold government approved qualifications in both laser and cosmetic tattooing. I have also been accepted as a member of IAPA - International Aesthetics Plasma Association and also an APAN member. Other qualifications include certificates in Cornotherapy and Aesthetics Oncology and I have worked along-side some of Australian’s top dermatologists and cosmetic doctors.

With over 25 years of experience she is now turning her attention to also deliver training to passionate and likeminded professionals with similar values for excellence in their practice. Her recent acquisition is the distribution rights to a leading advanced plasma technology with unique features that is proving successful in providing superior results and setting a standard in the industry for this technology. The A|C|C|O|R ®  COSMETIC CORRECTOR is a gentle alternative to skin tightening surgery - a technology combining plasma and low frequency techniques. This is a new-generation plasma that is gentle, while delivering excellent skin-tightening results. Joining us for an interview Catherine Hottes shares her incredible professional journey and how this new technology is allowing practitioners and their businesses to provide, what is becoming a high-in-demand service.

My clinical focus is on providing dermatological therapies that combine the most effective traditional treatments with the very best and most credible contemporary technologies and advanced holistic skincare. I am a strong believer that today’s aesthetician needs to provide bespoke, clinical skin health as this is what consumers are looking for. The customised approach is not only more effective in delivering results, it also creates a stronger trust between the therapist and the client, or patient. People today are seeking and appreciate a tailor-designed treatment plan, not a pre-packaged deal, as was common practice in the past. To achieve this, practitioners need to commit to ongoing professional development constantly perfecting their

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“Quality is remembered long after the price is forgotten”

knowledge and skills to ensure continuing client satisfaction that meets with their expectation. Adhering to these principles has enabled me to refine my services which constantly deliver high standard results with wellbeing benefits. What I am most passionate about is creating beautiful skin treatment outcomes, educating my clients on gut health and helping them achieve a “healthy glow”. I also love working with smart, successful, like-minded professionals who inspire me. Education is key to moving forward in this very fast-paced industry. If you are not willing to learn no one can help you, but if you are determined to learn, no one can stop you! APJ Q2: We believe that Plasma skin tightening treatments are becoming increasingly popular, Tell us why you chose the A|C|C|O|R ®  COSMETIC CORRECTOR as your preferred option for introducing plasma treatments to your clients as well as taking on the Australian distributorship? Before undertaking this product, I undertook a comprehensive investigation over a 12-month period reviewing several companies. I examined their technologies, training structure and their overall ethics. I concluded that the A|C|C|O|R’s quality and ethical position was compatible with my beliefs for safe, and effective device treatments. Furthermore, A|C|C|O|R is not a new-comer, they are a third-generation plasma device, and the world’s first and only low frequency (LF+) plasma technology. They

have many years of clinical track-record due to their structured tiered training. The device is supplied globally to 39 countries and is the only device accepted and recognised in Austria, due to its safety and efficacy. APJ Q3: What is Plasma and how does it work? Put simply, plasma is an ionised gas into which energy is provided to free electrons from atoms or molecules, creating the sublimation effect. Sublimation is a change in a state of matter, just like melting, freezing and evaporation. Through sublimation a substance changes from a solid to a gas without ever passing through a liquid state. The ionised electric arc acts on the skin’s surface via the tip of the pen without making direct contact with the skin. The plasma arc very rapidly vaporises the skin in a concentrated way in the desired location and tightens the surrounding area. A single ambulatory procedure is enough to make the eyes appear more open, to firm the eyelids and to smooth the areas of skin around the mouth and nose. As this is an invasive procedure there is a little down time, however, the end result is worth it. This treatment, delivered through the sophisticated A|C|C|O|R ® COSMETIC CORRECTOR technology, offers superior and safe treatment outcomes. APJ Q4:  Who has manufactured your devices and what is their background? What I appreciate about the A|C|C|O|R is that it is

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developed with advanced German engineering technology and it is made in UK, so it is manufactured with sophistication and to a very high standard. APJ Q5: What skin conditions can benefit from Plasma treatments and what kind of results can one expect? This technology can treat a variety of skin concerns and offers great results for: •

Upper and lower non-surgical blepharoplasty

Neck lift

Soft face lift

The results are very effective and natural-looking. The consultations are client-specific, not-treatment specific, in other words they are based on individual assessment of the client’s needs. The A|C|C|O|R does not replace the surgical blepharoplasty, but it can substantially improve and tighten the skin around the eyes so there is certainly a place in the market for it. Even the cosmetic/plastic surgeons are enjoying the portability and efficacy of the A|C|C|O |R. It can also treat and remove skin tags, moles and lighten and improve stretch marks. APJ Q6: How long do the treatment results last and is it safe to have repeated treatments? Treatments are considered permanent until the natural ageing process takes over. The best results can be achieved by designing a bespoke programme that incorporates skincare and follow-up treatments to maximise the results. For excessive hooded eyelids, clients are required to comply with the follow-up recommendations and the practitioner must follow specific protocols. In those instances, treatments can be repeated if necessary four months plus after the first treatment subject to a comprehensive consultation to evaluate the progress. APJ Q7:  How important is training and what qualification prerequisites do you require before training a practitioner to undertake these treatments? APJ 16

The minimum qualification requirement is a qualified beauty therapist or any qualified practitioner with a thorough knowledge of the skin are excellent candidates to train and incorporate the A|C|C|O|R Skin Corrector treatments to their practice as most aesthetic modalities can combine with these plasma therapy treatments. We also have some new advancements which will be launched in the new year that I am excited about. APJ Q8: Can you describe the training you deliver to ensure safety and the efficacious delivery of this treatment? Do you have protocols that are unique to your brand? The fundamental building blocks to successful treatments can only be achieved with structured multi-level bespoke training. To progress to the next level all practitioners must showcase five of each area treated within a minimum of three months after the initial training irrespective of what qualification they hold and length of time they have had in the industry. In this way all A|C|C|O|R practitioners are uniformly trained to a standard globally. This is why the A|C|C|O|R method is the leader for its safety and for its 360-degree training concept with protocols unique to their method. APJ Q9: Why do you believe plasma treatments are so popular and why should a salon or clinic introduce them? The results and efficacy of this technology and treatment methodology is second-to-none. Practitioners and business owners should always investigate the technologies they introduce for their validated quality, as well as ensure that the training they receive is thorough and comprehensive. Plasma treatments are very popular because they provide excellent results in skin tightening and for the business owner the return on investment is excellent – upper lids prices starting around $1000. With the A|C|C|O|R method you are provided with extensive training not only in the skills of delivering these treatments, but also in professional ethics and safety, as these are paramount to the success of your treatments. APJ In you would like to introduce this leading technology to your business please contact Catherine Hottes ARC Aesthetics Australia Ph: 1300 862 685 or Email: catherine@ arcaesthetics.com.au


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STANDARDS

WHAT SUPPORT SHOULD AN ASSOCIATION OFFER YOU IN TODAY’S CHANGING WORLD? By Tina Viney MOST CONSCIENTIOUS people who have decided to pursue a carrier in this industry have done so after completing a qualification that allowed them to gain the necessary knowledge to enter this industry as a profession. In pursuing a career, they either start their own business, or choose to enter the profession working for someone else as an employee. But how do we define profession and how does it differ from a trade? This is a very interesting question because it will lead us to the appropriate understanding of what is expected of us and how we can sustain and grow our recognition and reputation in the world of aesthetics. A profession is different to a trade in that it does not train you in just one skill, but requires you to study and gain extensive theoretical and scientific knowledge on which to base the practical application of your skills. It requires a considerable amount of specialised knowledge and training and often is associated with servicing others, such as with medicine, or law. As aesthetics requires that we operate our skills by servicing the needs of individuals, those individuals would be classified as clients rather than customers. Customers are individuals with whom we financially transact, whereas clients are individuals that we service and build a professional relationship with.

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COMMUNITY OF PRACTICE Graduates of a profession become part of a community of practice, which is a body of qualified persons in an occupation, or a specialised field. As part of this community they are required to adhere to an industry Code of Ethics that incorporates, or is supported by a separate Code of Practice. It is a standard requirement in both the Code of Ethics and the Code of Practices that professionals operate within a Scope of Practice. In other words, they have a duty-of-care to the profession and to their clients to only perform services or tasks that fall within the boundaries of what they have been trained, or hold qualifications in. These Codes are essential because they define the required conduct that will not only protect the public, but also the reputation of the profession as a whole. Professionals have a duty-of- care to their clients, but they also have a duty-ofcare to uphold the standards of their profession so that the reputation of the profession as a whole is also maintained and protected. Without a National Code of Ethics that practitioners can benchmark their conduct and behaviour and adhere to, an industry opens itself up to individual interpretation of behaviour and standards that may discredit not just the individual, but also be detrimental to the industry’s reputation as a whole. A National Code that is established by an industry peek body has the power to protect an industry by establishing a uniform standard of conduct that an industry can uphold and be known for.


Without a National Code of Ethics that practitioners can benchmark their conduct and behaviour and adhere to, an industry opens itself up to individual interpretation of behaviour and standards that may discredit not just the individual, but also be detrimental to the industry’s reputation as a whole. A CONSTANTLY CHANGING PROFESSION While it is exciting to enter a profession, to maintain one’s credibility there is the issue of “currency of knowledge”. Why is this essential? Let me give you an example. The other day I spoke to a therapist who had qualified with a diploma in Beauty Therapy through a Registered Training Organisation three years ago. However, even though she had achieved a qualification, she did not practice in the profession at all over the three years following her graduation, because of family obligations. Seeking to enter the industry she phoned me to ask if she would be considered qualified? The answer was that although technically she was qualified, she had no experience and her knowledge would be considered somewhat outdated. Why is this so when it was only three years ago that she received her qualifications? While she would have retained some of her knowledge, the fact that she had not practiced in a business environment would substantially set her back not to mention she would not be up-to-date with current advances. How is the speed of knowledge changing? To put it into context, in 1900 human knowledge doubled approximately every 100 years. By the end of 1945 the rate was every 25 years. The “Knowledge Doubling Curve”, as it’s commonly known, was created by Buckminster Fuller in 1982 who conducted a study on this information. Today human knowledge is reported as doubling every 13 months, and with the Internet we are quickly on the way to the doubling of knowledge every 12 hours.

What that means is that not only do people who have been out of the industry need to update their skills and knowledge, but all professionals who are currently in practices need to maintain their currency in order to continue to uphold the integrity of their reputation and their profession. Most professional industries require that their practitioners commit to on-going professional development to maintain their currency and the right to continue to practice. This structure is called CONTINUING PROFESSIONAL DEVELOPMENT (CPD). This is the way a profession can ensure the public that their practitioners are competent and upto-date with their practices. CPD is a requirement for most professions, such as doctors, lawyers, accountants, financial planners and now aestheticians, laser practitioners and cosmetic tattooists. This year APAN introduced CPD points requirements as part of the ARAP and CTARP registration (see pages 90-91 for further details). While at this stage there is no regulatory instrument to make CPD points mandatory for our profession, practitioners within our industry who want to be recognised for adhering to best practice are taking the challenge and meeting these standards in order to gain the recognition that this program offers. APAN believes that as new advances define our practices it is only a matter of time when CPD will become a MANDATORY. requirement. Alternatively, there is strong probability that medical practitioners may gain exclusive rights to certain procedures, as we are seeing in other countries.


CHANGE VS TRANSITION – WHAT’S THE DIFFERENCE? While new advances require that we remain current to maintain our professional status this requires the appropriate mindset, in order to understand and value the need to transition to new standards. At this point I would like to explain the difference between change and transition. The world change means to become something different. It can aptly describe when we first enter our profession and then move across to a totally different discipline than perhaps, you were in before. A secretary, can choose to change professions and train as a beauty therapist. Transition, on the other hand, is the process of change from one form, state or position to another. Both change and transition are inevitable in life and business and are vitally important to growth. Without change, we remain stuck and unable to reach goals. That being said, change is sometimes unexpected, sometimes unwanted, and frequently uncomfortable. That’s why it’s so important that we understand how to manage change – and that’s where we need the support of an industry association to point us in the right direction. With the many options available to you, it is the responsibility of an industry association to provide you with credible industry intelligence and help you identify the best choices and pathways to embrace and transition into changes that will help you uphold your professional reputation and the integrity of the profession as a whole. This is an essential requirement if the public is to view you as trustworthy and valuable in continuing to meet their needs. It’s not uncommon for some to confuse transition with change. Transition is psychological, it requires a certain mindset that values and recognises the necessity to continue to transition from the ways of the past to better ways that will sustain your future. Transition is not nearly as linear or concrete as change. Instead, transition is the process we go through in response to change. Transition is psychological, while change is situational. It is not events, but rather the inner reorientation and self-redefinition that you have to go through in order to incorporate any of those changes into your profession. I believe that without a true understanding of the transition process and why it needs to be consistent, change is just like a rearrangement of our furniture, it becomes impersonal and without an understanding of its role in the progress of your profession and the services you provide. Change should be the external manifestation of transition which is internal. THE ROLE OF ASSOCIATIONS IN SUPPORTING YOUR PROGRESS It is most unfortunate, but in our industry, there is a real misconception of why associations are important and what they should be offering their members, so I will endeavour to provide you with a brief summary. Each industry needs a collective voice if it’s to be heard at Government and regulatory levels, as well as identify and provide advice to education institutions on current deficiencies and how new qualifications can better meet the needs of businesses in the workplace. A responsible industry body should be involved in such activities. There is a military term known as “divide and conquer” and it is a successful tactic that is used by invaders to weaken a nation, by creating factions and divisions. There is power in unity and the more an industry is united the stronger its voice to achieve change. On the other hand, the more it is divided into factions the weaker it will be.

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One of the key benefits an industry association needs to provide is credible leadership for the industry it represents. It has a duty-of-care to research and provide accurate and up-to-date information of potential advances and changes and articulate to its members any risks that may threaten the future of their practices and their industry. This information must be objective and impartial to any commercial interests – that should be its point-of-difference. It also must possess the appropriate skills to provide a strong, timely and consistent communication with the Government and regulatory bodies on issues that will best serve the industry and support its practices and its future. This is a very specialised area and there are specific protocols on how to achieve breakthrough. However, if an industry body or association is to succeed it needs the support, trust and engagement of its members. Without their support it will not have a strong voice to represent them. Unity is key to the success of regulatory changes. As a professional, you have a duty-of-care to provide the very best services to your clients. On the other hand, your association has a duty-of-care to have your back and to engage in activities and initiatives that will protect your current and future needs. It should provide this support through conference programs, journal articles and through a variety of communication channels and keep you informed of issues that may be important to you and your future. You should expect from your association to provide you not just opinions, but correct and accurate information. There is a difference between an opinion and a position statement. One is transient and subject to interpretation and the other is authoritative. As a professional your ultimate decisions should be benchmarked against industry “position statements” and authoritative facts. Why do you need this? It comes back to one very important word REPUTATION. Reputation is the estimation in which a person is recognised or held. Reputation is linked to respect and a high opinion generally held about a person. If your clients are to remain loyal to you over your competition and the other voices that are trying to lure them away from you, they need to consider you as an authority in your field. They need to recognise you as a truly knowledgeable and confident professional, but your knowledge needs to be more than just your opinion, it must be grounded on solid research, scientific evidence and real facts. This is the mark of a true professional. Your clients should never waiver from trusting that you are the most credible source to provide them with up-to-date knowledge and the best care. Your reputation and your qualifications need to also be validated by an independent peek body. You need to hold your head up high that your services are relevant and you are worthy of their trust that they can depend on. APJ CONCLUSION

With the current advances and changes that are happening I strongly believe that our industry needs an experienced and competent voice to represent its interests and to support its members toward their future growth and success. APAN is a new-generation industry standards/association body that can do the job. Please allow us to support you and join as a professional member. We will provide you with professional and business advice and guide you to achieve your goals. We would love to welcome you into our community of practice. Visit www.

apanetwork.com and select the level of membership that best suits your needs. Ph: 07 55930 360 for further details.


Happy, Productive Staff are the Backbone of a SUCCESSFUL BUSINESS Let us help you find them and keep them. • • • •

Wage Rates Staff Conflict Issues Employment & Industrial Relations Staffing Contracts plus access to over 35 documents

PHONE TODAY TO LEARN HOW!

APAN HAS THE ANSWER

APAN - Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network (07) 5593 0360 info@apanetwork.com www.apanetwork.com

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SALONBUSINESS

Exploring the Human Factor to Business Growth An interview with Belinda Merlino PHILLIP FERNANDEZ’s business coaching style is a little different and somewhat unfamiliar to some. As a human strategist he believes that by improving human communication skills you can not only improve relationships, but also introduce a more congenial working environment that will improve business performance, while achieving this with greater ease. Additionally, his systems also help enrich quality of life for all concerned – management, staff and clients alike. Indeed, this is a winning formula. Belinda Merlino is the owner of THE SKIN CLINIC – a successful business in Sydney. She attributes her success to her amazing team and the incredible loving, happy and professional environment they create which she believes is the cornerstone to her clients’ loyalty and on-going business growth.

Skin Needling, RF Skin Tightening, Cryopen and Doctor-Only services. APJ Q2: BELINDA, HOW LONG HAVE YOU BEEN WORKING WITH PHILLIP FERNANDEZ? I have been working with Phillip since May 2018 and I have benefited greatly from his advice and services. APJ 3: WHAT MADE YOU DECIDE TO WORK WITH PHILLIP EVEN THOUGH YOU WERE ALREADY WORKING WITH A BUSINESS COACH?

She also attributes achieving this winning culture to the wisdom and knowledge that she has gained from Phillip Fernandez who has guided her through a new approach, which has given her a new edge from the skills she has gained from other business coaches. The uniqueness of Phillip’s system is that it is based on improving human behaviour as the valuable vehicle that not only makes business growth achievable, but also an enjoyable and rewarding journey.

After connecting with him on a social media post Phillip contacted me to see if he could help me in any way and offered a complimentary phone, or skype call to find out more about me and my business. During the call I discovered his sessions are delivered in person within the clinic once every two months. I liked that concept and felt I could get great value from this method, as it would allow both my team and me to meet him in person. I also felt that the face-to-face encounter would allow him to gain a better understanding of the dynamics of my team and provide me with more effective strategies on how to get the best out of their different and varied personalities. I had my branding, policies and procedures, marketing, etc, all set in stone - I just needed something a little different to boost team morale.

Here we interview Belinda as she shares with us her experience.

APJ 4: HOW WOULD YOU DESCRIBE WHAT PHILLIP DOES AND WHY IS IT UNIQUE?

APJ Q1: BELINDA, GIVE US A LITTLE BACKGROUND ABOUT YOURSELF AN YOUR BUSINESS?

Philip’s visits have allowed me and my team to look at ourselves, our behaviour and those of our guests in a different light. Phillip has brought us back to the core basics of what we do as therapists, starting with human interaction, teaching us to listen, to ask the right questions, to modify our behaviour around different personality types, and also to better understand the people we are dealing with on a daily basis. I feel we understand each other as team members a lot more since doing his personality profiling and this has allowed us to improve the way we value each other and the results we can bring to our team and our clients.

I have been a therapist for close to 20 years, with only taking a small break to have my two children who are now ages five and seven. I bought my first business - The Skin Clinic Concord in April 2015. At the time the clinic was primarily focused on laser hair removal. However, in the three years since purchasing it I have steered the business towards being a skin-focused clinic, offering a great variety of facial treatments from spa relaxation style facials, through to advanced and corrective skin treatments such as Dermapen APJ 22


FULL DAY WORKSHOP APJ 5: WHAT HAVE YOU LEARNT AND IMPLEMENTED AS A BUSINESS OWNER SINCE WORKING WITH PHILLIP? I very soon realised that I was working with a pretty outdated method of staff targets and commission structure. With Phillip, we were able to work out a new program that allowed my therapists to be accountable for their targets. The new system also allowed my therapists to earn a percentage of the total amount made over their targets, which meant there was a greater incentive to keep going. With our previous system they were required to achieve their monthly targets, then they received a set amount of commission for reaching that target. Working with a percentage reward means that my therapists are now looking for opportunities with every client where they can exceed expectations. APJ 6: HOW DOES YOUR STAFF RESPOND TO PHILLIP’S NLP STAFF DEVELOPMENT PROGRAM AND HAVE YOU SEEN CHANGES IN THEIR BEHAVIOUR, CONFIDENCE AND ATTITUDE? I can definitely see changes in myself and my team since working with Phillip. I think more importantly it has allowed us to understand each other better, and it has given us the skills to think also about how we interact and communicate more effectively with our guests as well. APJ 7: HOW IS THE TEAM MORALE AND CULTURE OF THE CLINIC BEEN AFFECTED SINCE WORKING WITH PHILLIP? We are a small clinic and it has taken a long time to find a great team. Additionally, we now have gained the skills to improve communication and our relationship with each other. We are a close-knit team and we are like-minded, even though we are all very different. Three of us are mothers so we understand and support each other on that level as well. We all have a great relationship within and outside of the clinic, and I believe our clients can see that and appreciate it. They feel at home with our warm and welcoming spirit and are comfortable knowing that they will always be treated with curtesy, kindness and professionalism, because this is who we are.

APAN is delighted to be sponsoring a full day workshop with Phillip Fernandez for managers and business owners. The event will be held in Melbourne on Tuesday 13th August, 2019. Cost is $550. Why not book today and plan for an amazing day and learn the skills to transform your team and the secrets to attracting on-going client growth? You can also pay in three monthly payments of $185. To book Ph: 07 5593 0360 apanetwork.com APJ 8: CAN YOU GIVE AN EXAMPLE OF ANY STAFF PERFORMANCE THAT WAS OUTSTANDING THROUGH WORKING WITH PHILLIP? My newest team member who has been with us for just under a year was yet to hit her monthly target. After implementing the new structure and also some tips to encourage a change of mindset, last month she was thrilled because for the first time she reached and even exceeded her targets. The training with Phillip really works? APJ 9: HAS YOUR BUSINESS SHOWN ANY IMPROVEMENT IN SALES AND IN YOUR TURNOVER? The new financial year starting July 2018 is already showing an increase in turnover of 10.4% to date. I am very pleased with that. APJ 10: WOULD YOU RECOMMEND PHILLIP’S PROGRAM TO ANOTHER CLINIC OR ANOTHER PROFESSIONAL IN OUR INDUSTRY? I would definitely recommend Phillip to anyone within the industry who wants to get the best out of their team in a very different way. The program is not only beneficial for business performance, but also offers great life skills as well. APJ If you would like to speak to Phillip Fernandez phone 0402 213 813 or visit www.businesswizards.com.au

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CONFERENCEEVENT

Australasian Society of Cosmetic Dermatologist (ASCD) SYMPOSIUM 2018 APAN IS A STRONG ADVOCATE of on-going education as well as collaborative networking between stakeholders. We try to practice what we preach and we attend at least five conference a year to stay up-to-date with advances in science, technology, business and consumer trends. As most of our practitioners and members are working on the skin we believe that staying informed of advances in dermatology are very important. This year the Australasian Society of Cosmetic Dermatology held their Symposium in Melbourne and we were delighted that TERRY EVERITT was able to attend as a guest of ASCD on behalf of APAN. Here he presents some interesting highlights of the event. September 21st - 23rd 2018 saw the second year of the Australasian Society of Cosmetic Dermatologist (ASCD) symposium at the Crown Conference Centre Melbourne. The symposium belied its age as it was so organised and engaging. The Production House team had the organisation of the symposium humming along, and the symposium speakers were a great mix of local and international thought-leaders. To a large extent this was from the efforts of the symposium’s convener, Professor Greg Goodman, in getting such a stellar line up of speakers. A symposium is a smaller conference, defined mostly by delegate numbers, generally around a specific subject whereas a conference is a larger group and subject matter more widely dispersed. While ASCD carries the name symposium, it is a conference – apart from reaching a maximum attendance of the Crown Convention Centre, the program was extensive with a solid line-up of exhibitors. Exhibitors were varied and understandably geared toward cosmetic dermatology. Platinum sponsors were Allergan, Galderma and Merz Aesthetics; Gold sponsor was Syneron Candela with five silver sponsors being Cryomed, Cutera, Lumenis, Skinceuticals and Venus Concept. Twenty-two other APJ 24


exhibitors, in addition to the sponsors, were in attendance. As you can see from the above listing, light-based energy equipment was solidly represented. You could say a laser is a laser, which is not true of course. While there are many different wavelengths and differing technical capabilities of the array of lasers offered by the exhibitors, it was a great occasion to define the difference in each machine in having so many to compare next to each other. Radio Frequency equipment was very much in evidence with many of the exhibitors providing demonstrations to the curious delegates. All morning and afternoon teas and lunch where served among the exhibitors, allowing more time for the delegates to see what each exhibitor was offering. The symposium has so much going on with three concurrent streams for most of the time, making it difficult to choose which to attend. Eleven international plus 53 ‘local faculty’ speakers provided an avalanche of insights regarding techniques, technology and everything regarding the epidermis and all the way to the bone. The symposium started each day with a plenary session until the morning tea break and then three concurrent sessions. The only thing I did not like so much at the symposium was the timings of the sessions were not aligned, so you were required to leave one speaker in one room to go to another to catch the information from another speaker. This was due to the session timings, with some subjects having seven minutes with others being longer. I know you can get a lot covered in seven minutes, but only an overview – not the details. The first day highlight for many came very early in the morning. Dr Dadong Wang (Associate Professor of Medicine UTS in Sydney) talked about ‘Artificial intelligence and the future of medicine,’ followed by Dr Ashish Bhatia (Associate APJ 25


Professor of Clinical Dermatology at Northwestern University in Chicago, USA) speaking on ‘Can we get a glimpse of the future-new techniques and processes’. While dermatologists are not going to be replaced by robots any time soon there is much available that can take a lot of the workload off the dermatologist (and doctors in general). From computerised consultation intelligence to diagnostic equipment and a lot in-between technological innovations are constantly coming up with new developments. One of the exhibitors showed a robotic hair transplantation machine making this work so much easier and faster (with of course robotic precision). Dr Tatjana Pavicic (Germany) spoke on several topics and the seven minutes did not worry her – an absolute speed talker (in perfect English) who had so much information in each of her subjects. Also, appearing on the second day in her national dress for a little sartorial difference. One method used throughout the symposium was the panel discussion – some panels discussed how they would treat a particular condition, others tried to identify specific, yet obscure skin presentations. Some groups were made of teams, competing for the prize (gratification of winning). It was interesting that different ways of treatment were suggested dependant on which country the speakers were from and then other times all agreed on the same treatment. The Americans appeared to be more invasive in procedures with immediate results rather than the Australian methodology of titration of treatment intensity. Some of the highlights (for me) included a session of regulators including Jamie Orchard, National Director of Legal Services at the Australian Health Practitioners Regulation Agency (AHPRA). As you can imagine, that was a packed room. The session on ‘Controversies in skin care’ was intriguing as three speakers spoke about the hype and the efficacy of some favorite ingredients. One speaker here was Dr Michael Freeman, who is also a regular speaker at APAN conferences. For me, the controversies are not that controversial, but then again, I do tend to know the truth of ingredients, although a little surprised that this was not well known to many who attended this session. A little bug bear of mine is clinical photography. I was so glad to hear reinforcement of what I have always preached on

APJ 26

this subject. Taking good clinical photographs are essential, no matter what type of treatment you are undertaking. The before and after images must be of good quality (and without makeup). Clinical photography does not require an expensive set up with cameras, tripods, lighting, etc. However, taking photos on your phone is not the way to go. Did you know you could be sued if you had client photos on your phone and it was lost or hacked? You can be sued under the Privacy laws. With selfies and photoshop, it is difficult to get people to have a realistic understanding of what they look like – even photoshop is photoshopped – an interesting observation. Of course, there is the social element, not only the networking with colleagues at the symposium. Welcome drinks were very welcome after the first day of learning on Friday and then on Saturday the Gala Dinner was held at Arial at South Wharf. It was fun to get on the buses from the hotel to this venue and returning the same way. This was loads of fun. Again, the Production House event team showed their excellence in the organisation. There are too many take-a-way points to list as there was so much information. It is right to state that since late September 2018, Cosmetic Dermatologists have a lot more knowledge, not only in clinical methodologies, but also how they treat the individual as a person, not just a patient. Cosmetic Dermatology is in good hands in Australia, due to the work of ASCD and their charismatic leader. If you have been around dermatology, then you know Dr Goodman. He has been in various areas of dermatology over the last 20 years. Dr Goodman is the Chairman of the Australasian Society of Cosmetic Dermatologists, while a teaching Associate Professor at Monash University in Melbourne and Chief of Surgery at the Skin and Cancer Foundation. In keeping up with hands-on dermatology, he also sees patients at the Dermatology Institute of Victoria in South Yarra. And I found out; he has his own website. Dr Goodman is so humble, polite and very generous with his time and continues to be a mentor to so many dermatologists. APJ The 2019 ASCD Symposium will be at the Sydney Hilton, September 20-22nd A symposium well- worth attending, so watch out for the messages regarding this.


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REVOLUTIONARY Australian antiageing brand Wrinkles Schminkles, has harnessed the skin-healing properties of 100% medical grade silicone to treat and prevent the formation of lines, creases and wrinkles. Although its brand name is a fun and frivolous, to the visible signs of ageing Wrinkles Schminkles is extremely serious about the cosmetic benefits of silicone and its proven effects on visibly softening and relieving wrinkles. In fact, Wrinkles Schminkles’ Silicone Pads are manufactured in a medial grade laboratory and packaged in a clean room environment, making them the only ‘cosmetic’ Silicone Pads borne from a highly regulated, medical facility. Adding weight to the efficacy and quality of the Wrinkles Schminkles range is their recent inclusion in the ARTG 310450 listing through the TGA. Formulated from 100% Medical Grade Silicone, Wrinkles Schminkles targets the parts of the body that are the first to act their age. Helping to treat and prevent the formation of wrinkles on the chest, décolletage, neck, mouth, eyes and forehead. Silicone has a proven history in the repair and correction of skin The medical community has been using silicone to treat scars, burned skin and assist wound-healing for more than 30 years. Silicone Gel Pads have also been clinically-proven to treat and prevent the formation of keloid and hypertrophic scarring as Dr. Terri Labberton, Cosmetic Doctor at the Victorian

Cosmetic Institute and founder of Vibrance Clinics reveals. She also confirmed that silicone is well researched and proven medically to work on correcting the skin. “The more you use it,” she said, “the better and more cumulative the results.” So how does silicone work to treat and prevent wrinkles? Although a pad that adheres to the skin, Wrinkles Schminkles goes way beyond the popular sheet masks or skin patches available on the market today. Rather than try to ‘push’ an ingredient topically into the skin, Wrinkles Schminkles generates hydration and stimulates collagen production from the inside out. The adhesive pad also keeps skin taut so it cannot physically crease or wrinkle. When a Wrinkles Schminkles Silicone Pad is placed onto the skin, it creates a microclimate environment between the skin and the silicone. This unique environment helps the skin heal itself as hydration is drawn up from the lower layers of the skin to the outside layers causing it to plump and smooth itself. The placement of the 100% Medical Grade Silicone Pad on the skin brings blood flow to the surface, helping to stimulate collagen, the essential protein that holds the skin together. “To get the best results possible, in the first 30 days use the Silicone Pads nightly as much as you can to really give the skin a chance to repair and rejuvenate,” suggests Dr Labberton. Founded by Sydney-local Gabrielle Requena, Wrinkles Schminkles is fast becoming a beauty brand to watch. In July 2018, Gabrielle pitched the business on Channel 10’s Shark Tank, where she did not agree to take an investment from the Sharks and instead changed tact to appear on TVSN’s Shopping Channel; the response was so overwhelming that the product sold-out within the first hour of the show! “While the TVSN project was highly successful it has now ended, however the consumer demand is never-ending and this is a great opportunity for salons and clinics to stock our products and gain new sales and new clients,” Gabrielle said. Products in the range include: Chest & Décolletage Smoothing Kit, RRP $42.00| Eye Smoothing Kit, RRP $42.00 | Forehead Smoothing Kit, RRP $42.00 | Neck Smoothing Kit, RRP $42.00 | Mouth & Lip Smoothing Kit, RRP $42.00 | Morning After Glow Serum, RRP $39.95 | Cleaning Solution for Silicone Pads, RRP $19.95 To stock this winning product please contact Gabrielle Requena on 0414 655 144 or gabrielle@wrinklesschminkles. com. Mention this ad by 30th January 2019 and benefit from the APJ INTRODUCTORY SPECIAL.

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COSMETICINGREDIENTS

SUN PROTECTION FACTOR – THE UNTOLD STORY By Danielle Hughes

IN 2017, AMA LABORATORIES in New York was raided by the FBI for falsifying test results and providing misleading declarations to cosmetic companies. They are the largest tester of SPF Sunscreens in the Asia-Pacific. It is a fact, that many sunscreens being sold in Australia (including those being manufactured in Australia) are tested in the United States of America and Europe to provide documentation for submission to the TGA for registration.

reapplying sunscreen throughout the day, protection time can be extended past the SPF rating calculation. THIS IS A FALLACY.

Scores of people in Australia have reported severe burns and skin irritation despite using the Cancer Council’s Peppa Pigbranded product and Banana Boat’s SPF 50+ while out in the sun. It is also a fact, that many registered SPF50 sunscreens on the market, when tested in vivo (on human skin, in natural conditions), come back with a far lesser SPF rating than what is being claimed.

Once this is understood, the issue becomes the question of whether the SPF you’re applying is in fact providing the SPF being claimed.

It’s a troubling topic – after all, this is the stuff designed to protect us against skin cancer, a life threating disease that one thousand Australians are treated for every day. Of course, the importance of wearing a sunscreen or modern environmental protector is not being questioned here. However, what we need to consider is:

1. The individual user’s comprehension of what SPF use means for their sun exposure time 2. The validity of the SPF claims being made and the subsequent ‘false-hope’ marketing that factor provides about protection from harmful sun exposure. WHAT IS AN SPF? Sun Protection Factor is best described as a ‘Delay’ Factor i.e. how long you can spend out in the sun, before your skin cells go into trauma. This will vary for each individual but, on average, skin cells without protection go into trauma in 3-4 mins, in the middle of the day. A consumer must understand that if they can spend three minutes in the sun before their cells go into trauma, the application of an SPF50 will protect for 150 minutes before their skin reaches the same point of trauma. Furthermore, the most common misconception is that by

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Once your cells are ‘cooked’ for the day – they’re cooked. Once you’ve experienced your daily dosage, regardless of how much more sunscreen you apply, the cellular functions become impaired and mutation can occur.

It should be noted that SPF does not relate to protection against reactive oxygen species, pollution, accelerated cell turnover, increased dehydration, infrared radiation or high energy visible light. HOW IS AN SPF TESTED HERE IN AUSTRALIA? In Europe, SPF registration is governed by the EU Cosmetics Directive and administered by the EU Health Commission. The standard requires both in-vivo (live human response) and in-vitro (chemical analysis) testing to ensure product reliability. All products produced and imported must provide validated in vivo certification before sale. In Australia, however, SPF ratings are licensed by the TGA, based on an analytical composition of the formula and an undertaking by the ‘sponsor’ (manufacturer or marketer) that an in vivo SPF test has been conducted. Professor Sanchia Aranda, Cancer Council Australia, spoke with the ABC explaining the TGA’s involvement in testing, “While the TGA don’t specifically audit the laboratories for formulas, they do audit the goods manufacturing process that’s laid down for those things to be done”. The question must be asked – How does auditing the manufacturing process validate a claimed SPF? In this same ABC article, it was reported, “The TGA Spokeswoman said the TGA does require ‘sponsors’ to undertake SPF testing for sunscreens. All testing is done under an international ISO standard”. But what if the testing was conducted by the major global testing facility under investigation for falsifying documents?


DERMATEST John Staton runs Dermatest, the number one analytics and in vivo testing company in Australia and the only independent laboratory testing sunscreens in Australia. Staton says that his company conducts tests for about half of the sunscreens on the market, while the remaining half would be tested overseas. “Nowhere in the world are there audits of the labs that do the testing,” Staton told the ABC in 2017. “The TGA, as far as I know, doesn’t test anything, they actually rely on submissions that are put to them and they can do analytical testings but that’s different to actually testing if the product really works in the marketplace as used by consumers”. Published in the DERMATEST Newsletter in July 2015 “Earlier this year, the Consumer Reports.org published a list of 34 US SPF tests, reported from an independent US Test lab. Of these, when compared with label claim, 14 were found to be deficient according to the SPF measured in vivo.” A troubling revelation! BANANA BOAT AND PEPPA PIG As increasing cases of adverse reactions and severe skin burns are reported, there is a growing consumer concern surrounding SPF reliability and safety. Michael Moore, Chief Executive of the Public Health Association told the ABC, “We can see there are problems, it does point to an inadequate system with the TGA and I think it requires the TGA themselves to look at what they’re doing”. CONSUMERS The respective regulatory bodies around the world e.g. TGA, FDA, require submissions of clinical data by the manufacturer (sponsor) to substantiate the claims being marketed to the public. But as consumers, we have no way of verifying the validity, nor is there any information published on product packaging or marketing material that identifies the testing conditions or types of individuals on the testing panel.

mydadthechemist.com published an article in April 2018 that explained what happened when the author phoned ‘Australian Gold’, sun care and sun protection company, and asked them to share their lab results – the answer was disappointing; “The ingredients and (SPF) levels have been tested by a third-party company, which we pay them to do. We do not have the test results for consumers to review.” If tests have been conducted, paid for, and the results are positive, why wouldn’t you share them as part of your marketing strategy to instil even more confidence in the consumer’s perception of your product? CONCLUSION Hopefully, one day, there will be uniformity in validation, certification and consumer education explaining the practical limitations of an ‘SPF’ product. Hopefully, one day, we will see product companies and manufacturers held accountable for the claims they are making, with public declarations of their scientific data to substantiate their ‘SPF’ rating. How difficult is it to add a page with this information on their website? Sun protection should be held in high esteem by consumers, manufacturers and testing facilities alike, given its critical role in the prevention of skin cancer. The next generation of skin protection starting to appear around the world includes the use of peptides to add layers of defence beyond simply reflection and refraction of UV rays. At present, these new formulas have no common certification developed to allow comparison in the ultimate pursuit of protecting DNA from mutations – but I’m sure that will come. APJ Danielle Hughes is the Managing Director of Skinfaktor Australia who distribute the Technology and Skincare of the European Group, Dermia Solutions. Her career over the past 12 years in the hair and beauty industries has included roles as Australian Education Manager and National Brand Manager for leading imported cosmeceutical brands and currently also includes an international role as Marketing Manager using digital communications for a new to market European Medical and Aesthetics provider with patented technology. Danielle can be contacted on 0437 013 777, danielle@skinfaktor.com.au

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SALONBUSINESS

So, you want to launch your own AESTHETICS BUSINESS? Pitfalls, Guidelines and Valuable Advice to Succeed. By Caroline Nelson

IT’S NOT UNCOMMON for practitioners who have been in the industry for a while to move on and start their own clinic and fulfil their dream. They may have been working in the industry and gaining valuable experience and from there, they decide the next logical step is to start their own business. If you are new to business ownership then this article will provide valuable information that could save you money, sleepless nights, and possibly the future management stress. My advice before you undertake the challenges of business ownership is to honestly assess your own capabilities, and decide if you have the right mindset and temperament to be in business, and to be an employer. And truthfully, not everyone is suitable. Just because someone is an excellent aesthetician does not necessarily mean they have the ability to be an excellent business manager and operator. The truth be said, being in business can be a lonely place and for this reason you will need to be a self-starter who has the drive to push through obstacles and challenges. You need to be prepared to put an enormous amount of effort, time, money, and patience into developing and marketing particularly in the first one to two years. Realistically, once you’re in business it will need your full commitment until the day you sell and walk away. If this is what you are determined to do then the next is to ask yourself if you have sufficient capital to finance the venture, plus extra “just in case” money. There is a saying “Money’s not only the root of all evil, but lack of it may well be the leading cause of business failure”. Starting a business is like building, or remodelling a house, there will always be extra costs that weren’t factored in. There will always be unexpected delays that can’t be avoided, and each delay will eat into your finances. It is therefore important to ensure you have ample cash reserves for the unexpected. You will need money to not only get the doors open initially, but to keep them open and to sustain it while it gains a commercial foothold. But let’s assume you have considered all of the above and have sufficient funds to move forward, what next? Well you need a plan that will determine how you intend to do business and generate profits. APJ 30

YOUR BLUEPRINT OF OPERATIONS – THE BUSINESS PLAN A well-prepared business plan will be essential throughout the life of your business. You will need it later on to guide your focus, to prepare for expanding the business, or to help implement new directions, technologies or products. Before you start your business, a business plan will ensure that the business is feasible and that there is a well laid out blueprint for action. The business plan will cover critical business decisions made at the start, for example organisational structure, partners, initial debt, etc. It may need to be geared to the initial funding or capital requirements from a bank or investor. In addition, if you wish to be located in a shopping centre invariably they will require you to present your Business Plan so they can see if your business will be viable and can succeed through the term of the lease. Also, once you are in the business, a business plan will help you track how you’re progressing. Business planning is an ongoing business activity that should be regularly reviewed and revised throughout the life of your business. Another important part of your business plan is the marketing plan. THE MARKETING PLAN This is a gutsy part of the business plan covering marketing and promotional activities, selling strategies, pricing and results. The ‘link’ between your marketing plan and the resulting business plan is vital. Marketing attracts and retains the customers and ultimately ‘drives’ the performance of the business. Your marketing strategy involves selecting a target market, developing an appropriate mix for each and allocating the resources necessary to achieve its goals. It is important to understand that the practicality of your business plan is determined to a large degree by how realistic the sales forecast and the supporting marketing strategy are. BRANDING YOUR BUSINESS To determine your business branding ask yourself how you want your business projected to the general public? How you


position your brand will influence the services you hope to provide and this in turn will dictate the type of equipment or products that you will need to purchase or stock. A cautionary note here is, if the brand strategy is not clear, this can give potential clients mixed messages. Ultimately this can contribute to a failing business. Here is an example of a mix message. A salon or clinic may wish to project an image that is clinical or Medispa, offering high-tech results-driven services, but stocks a skin care range that cannot support the level of results they are advocating. This business would be better stocking Cosmeceuticals with clinical packaging that is consistent with their services. Alternatively, a salon that concentrates on delivering the more traditional pampering services might be best to stock an aromatherapy or organic product line. Consideration must also be given to adapt the services and products to suit the demographics of the trade area. Which brings us to the right location for the new business. LOCATION, LOCATION, LOCATION The right location of a business can be a critical determining factor to its success. When choosing a location consider first if the population base is large enough to support your business? What level of competition is there within a fivekilometre radius of the proposed site, this is the average trade area of most aesthetic businesses? Are the demographics compatible with the market you wish to attract? Is the available site the right size for your business – large enough for growth but not too large that you are paying an unnecessarily high rent. Is there good walk-by and/or driveby traffic? Can signage be easily seen? Is there sufficient parking? Is there ample available public transport? THE FIT-OUT The physical layout of the business is extremely important, it must be practical, aesthetically pleasing, but must not eat to deeply into your finances. Choosing the right site can save you money. Things to be mindful of are the shape of the premises, unusual shaped premises can be harder and costly to fit out. Consider the location of existing plumbing and electrical

outlets. Plumbing and electrics are huge money grabbers so the least you have to do the better. The amount of money to set up a salon will depend on the quality of salon, the fixtures and fittings you would like to project this quality, the equipment you need and your stock inventory. There are also numerous operational issues you will need to decide on. For instance, are you going to employ people and if so, will they be employed as casual, part-time or fulltime employees. You may even decide on contract staff, if so make sure you understand how this works from a Fairwork perspective. What are the qualifications and qualities you desire of employees? And will you be offering a good staff training program and introducing an effective system of incentives, so you can recruit and retain valuable staff? If you decide after taking everything into consideration that you have the necessary passion, drive, commitment and the start-up money then I would suggest that you may be an ideal candidate for operating your own business. But one final word before you start looking for the perfect location, I suggest you go and do a business management course at your local TAFE, or through your states Small Business Resource Centre who provide numerous informative seminars and workshops. Read everything you can and consider employing an industry specific business coach to guide you through the mine field of starting up in what can only be described as a very competitive industry. APJ  Š Copyright Caroline Nelson 2018 Caroline Nelson is a beauty industry expert who specializes in helping businesses develop their brand, improve productivity, and increase bottom-line profit. To learn more about her step-by-step program for salon spa success phone 04106 00440.

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SKINSCIENCE

THE ON-GOING GLYCATION STORY By Terry Everitt

THE PROTEINS IN THE SKIN that are most prone to glycation are the same ones that make a youthful complexion so plump and springy - collagen and elastin. When those proteins hook up with renegade sugars however, they become discoloured, weak, and less supple - this shows up on the skin's surface as wrinkles, sagginess, and a loss of radiance. The study and the understanding of glycation is of great interest to professionals providing treatments for skin ageing. Indeed, it is an exhaustive topic and one that is constantly researched. Staying up-to-date with new findings will help us better understand its mechanisms and how we can minimise the impact of glycation on the skin by managing the causative factors.

Illingworth below. The result of these changes is regressive, leading to ageing and the beginning of some diseases processes. One unique feature of RAGE is the induction of sustained proinflammatory transcription factor NFkB (Nuclear factor kappa B) by overriding autoregulatory loops. NFkB, as you know, is a transcription factor, which carries signals into the nucleus and initiates specific gene function. Also creates ROS (Reactive Oxygen Species), which in turn increases NFkB activation. (Illingworth 2015).

Terry Everitt has written several articles on glycation. Constantly vigilant of scientific updates, he once again shares his extensive knowledge with new information on glycation in this article. Here is the third paper I have written for APAN regarding glycation and the effects this has on the skin. In this instalment of a never-ending story, I take a broader look at glycation stress on the body and how sleeping habits are possibly not helping. Carbohydrates are essential for life, yet due to the presence of a carbonyl group, reducing sugars (i.e. glucose) react nonenzymatically with amino groups on proteins. Such a coupling result in aldehydes via the Schiff and Amadori processes, collectively known as the Maillard reaction. Simplistically, sugar combines with a protein in a nonenzymatic process. These reactions react with biological materials to form the carbonyl proteins we more commonly know as Advanced Glycation End Products (AGEs). By itself, this is not a good thing, but it is made worse by receptors on cells (RAGE), which is a signal transduction receptor for these AGEs that allow a host of changes to occur within the cell. The outcome was elegantly described some time ago as “translational modification with disorder” (Nagai et al. 2010). As I have written previously, due to the action of AGEs connecting with RAGEs, thereby entering the cell, the cells produce inflammatory cytokines, particularly TNF-α, IL-1, IL-6 and MCP-1. Such inflammatory processes create a circular effect, some of which are shown nicely in the image from

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We know that high glucose is problematic, more so when we get a ‘blood glucose spike.’ It is this postprandial hyperglycaemia that induces mutliple rapid chemical changes. What has become more apparent from the work of Nagai et al., (2010) and Maessen et al., (2015) is that the glucose spike evokes an ‘aldehyde spark.’ Various types of aldehydes simultaneously form with a chain-reaction. These reactions have names such as Glyceraldehyde (GA), glycolaldehyde, acetaldehyde (AA), 3-deoxyglucosone (3DG), glyoxal (GO), methylglyoxal (MGO) and malondialdehyde. Sugars in ‘glucose spikes’ are usually saccharides with their standard ‘cyclical form’. However, a portion of the glucose molecule is decyclised to present an open-linear form. The problem here is that the aldehyde group (-CHO) is exposed and exerts harmful effects.


Nagai, R. Mori, T. Yamamoto, Y. Kaji, Y. Yonei, Y. (2010, p. 113). Where the exposed aldehyde-base is in the open-linear form, glucose reacts with carbohydrate chains on protein surfaces or free saccharides (i.e. glucose, fructose, pentose) in blood and tissue fluid.

Xu et al. (2017) took an entirely different approach and showed that the soluble form of RAGE (sRAGE) is not bound to a cell membrane and floats freely in the plasma. Thus, acting as a ‘decoy’ receptor that binds to β-amyloid protein, prior to the β-amyloid protein becoming involved in a glycation process. Their results showed that sRAGE might assist the diagnosis of an AD from healthy individuals, but could not differentiate between the different types of Alzheimer’s disease. Uemura, Takeshita, & Yamada, (2017) wrote of cataracts induced by the glycation of crystallin protein, which comprises the crystalline lens of the eye. Sexual health has been known to be at risk since the work of Jinno, Tamura, & Yonei (2012) who found glycation affects the ovaries and testicles, to be an attributing cause of infertility in females and males. Did you know that atherosclerosis is defined as a disease of ageing, and ageing is considered an independent risk factor for the development of atherosclerosis? Glycation can promote atherogenesis by oxidising lipoproteins, which can be harmful to the integrity and function of vessel walls. The engagement of AGEs with their receptor, as mentioned above, generates intracellular reactive oxygen species and activates mitogen-activated protein kinase and nuclear factor kappa-B signalling and, ultimately, the production of several inflammatory factors, resulting in the progression of atherosclerosis. This, of course, interferes with and disrupts High Density Lipoproteins (the good cholesterol) functionality (Simo, Ikhlef, Berrougui, and Khalil 2017).

Here we have an amalgam of effects of glycative stress. Following the arrows, you can see the multiple damage that is caused. (Yonei, Yagi, and Takabe, 2018, p. 20). GLYCATIVE STRESS The human body has consistently been dealing with oxidative stress – there is nothing new about it. What is relatively new is glycative stress has become a more significant stress on the body, primarily due to diet changes and reduction in activity due to current lifestyle. Consequently, we see rapidly rising incidences of diseases related to glycative stress, such as obesity, diabetes and dyslipidaemia to name a few. What is evident is the RAGE can uptake several different ligands, due to structural variations (isoforms) thus being implicated in the pathogenesis of several diseases and is now recognised as a pattern-recognition receptor (PRR), similar to toll-like receptors. While I have previously written regarding glycative stress and the action this has on the skin, this is of course, happening throughout the body, with much research available in the literature detailing how. NON-SKIN DAMAGE Here I will broach a few random examples of nonintegumentary induced glycation, including glycation of β-amyloid in the brain, which is a prime modifier of Alzheimer’s disease (AD). Here the toxicity of β-amyloid is increased, causing inflammation in the peripheral brain cells (Baric, 2014).

THE IMPACT OF SLEEP ON AGEING Recent work shows sleep (or lack of) is a causative factor in glycation. We know that approximately 40% of patients with diabetes (strongly linked to glycative stress) have disease complications related to sleep disorders. Sleep apnoea syndrome (SAS), which is a significant disease resulting in a decline in sleep quality, is frequently associated with complications related to obesity and diabetes. There are etiological associations between sleep time and life style related diseases with severe glycation stress have attracted a lot of attention recently. Many people suffer from lack of sleep with no association with obesity or diabetes. More extended working hours, shift work, children, longer commutes all reduce sleep time. Indeed, it is correct to say there is a negative correlation between sleep and various disorders. Complicated by many who are tired due to sleep lack, taking increased amounts of ‘stimulation foods,’ i.e. high sugar content. With glycation, balance and homeostasis become abnormal. ‘Eating related’ hormones such as leptin and ghrelin are disrupted due to sleep time shortening; secondary increased insulin resistance due to intensified obesity and increased anti-insulin hormones such as cortisol secretion are all involved. Growth hormones secreted during sleep, classified in a class of anti-insulin hormones, have blood glucose elevating effects; among a myriad of other imbalances that occur. All linked to lack of sleep. Added to this is the decrease of melatonin from the shrinking pineal gland. Yonei, Yagi, and Takabe (2018) have shown there is a

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bidirectional correlation between sleep and carbohydrate metabolism, with the people with a shorter duration of sleep having a large amount of AGEs accumulated in the skin. Conversely the people with a longer sleep time showed reduced glycative stress (p. 21). It appears that insufficient sleep is likely to induce blood glucose spikes.

and rosemary extracts (Parengkuan et al. 2013; Ishioka et al. 2015). Measurements of the cleaving activity of catechins contained in tea revealed epigallocatechin gallate to be the most potent single component, suggesting that epigallocatechin gallate in tea is associated with AGE crosslink cleaving effects. Tea also contains epigallocatechin and gallocatechin, which were ranked second to epigallocatechin gallate in cleaving activity. Metformin is a drug that has gained much interest of late, both for its indicative use and off label use regarding ‘antiageing’ effects. Primarily used to decrease a significant diabetic marker – HbAIc (glycated haemoglobin). Vitamin B isoforms are useful in the fight against AGEs. Pyridoxamine (B6 isoform) is considered to have multiple mechanisms of action; including blocking the oxidation of the Amadori intermediate and trapping of reactive carbonyl and dicarbonyl compounds derived from the Amadori reaction.

Yonei, Yagi, and Takabe (2018, p. 22). The Yonei, Yagi, and Takabe (2018) study correlated well with an earlier study, also in 2018, by Ogura et al. who found “that the melatonin (2 mgs) ingestion of the previous night improved the participant`s quality of sleep, which improved postprandial hyperglycaemia” (p. 75). While exciting, there need to be replicative studies as this was very small (eight respondents who were all young). There has been a lot written regarding Melatonin and AGEs with studies providing differing results from no effect to marked effects. The disagreement in outcomes is due to the various methodologies and variables used and small respondent numbers. One study of interest used 28 plant-containing flavonoids (0.4 nmol/L) and 6 tea plant-containing catechins (10 mg/mL) as reference controls against N-phenacylthiazolium bromide (PTB) as a positive control, to Melatonin (0.4 nmol/L), (Takabe, Mitsuhashi, Parengkuan, Yagi, Yonei, 2016). Without all the details, melatonin was found to have AGE degradation promoting effects. The mechanism, based on the cleavage of AGE crosslinks, specifically the division of the α-diketone structure in crosslinked AGEs. In conclusion, all the above correlates to the need for decreased carbohydrate consumption, specifically the sugars and getting adequate amounts of sleep, perhaps with the help of Melatonin. Conversely, it is known that decreased melatonin secretion occurs with ageing and sleep disorders may intensify glycative stress. HELPING YOUR CLIENTS There is no one way to reduce AGEs. In helping your client (and yourself), methods of reducing glycative stress need to be multi-focal - glucose consumption reduction and glucose absorption retardation, AGE production inhibition, AGE degradation and competitive inhibition of RAGE. Substances reported cleaving AGE crosslinks include mugwort and rooibos extracts as well as pomegranate, water chestnut,

APJ 34

Benfotiamine, a synthetic derivative of thiamine (vitamin B1) has been shown to reverse many metabolic changes induced by hyperglycaemia, including the formation of methylglyoxalderived AGEs. Pyridoxal 5-phosphate (active from of B6) - helps to break down glycogen in glycogenolysis, so would reduce the amount of glycose available to undergo glycation. Aminoguanidine 150 mg to 300 mg a day, taken with food. Aminoguanidine has a half-life of only 4-hours so that these dosages is best administered over the day in split doses. (Everitt, 2015) AGEs accumulation in the body and indeed, in the skin, is not equal in quantity or quality, all proceeding at differing rates, yet simultaneously. A FINAL WORD As we know more of the role of biological modifications induced by specific AGEs, it will allow us to expand our understanding of human biology, stressing the importance and possibly the central part of glycation in ageing. No one ingredient or treatment will obliviate Advanced Glycated End Products. ‘Deglycation’ is a series of mechanisms needing to be employed to counter the individual AGEs differential effects on the homeostasis of the body and the skin. I trust in the information provided, you can think through what you have available and how this can help your clients in the fight against age caused by AGE. APJ Terry Everitt is regarded as a ‘Master Skincare Professional’ due to his extensive knowledge of the art and science of skincare. A very competent educator who continues to lecture from an evidence based scientific background. Terry is the Director of Aesthetic Educators Pty Ltd. To contact Terry you can reach him aestheticeductors@gmail.com.

For a list of references, please contact the editor.


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Diamond Natural Beauty uses a patented technology that is scientifically and medically proven and peer reviewed within the medical and scientific literature and has been successfully used for over 26 years world-wide within the spa and beauty industry. Contact us today and let us help you achieve amazing business growth. DIAMOND NATURAL BEAUTY 0406 279 889 rgreenberg888@gmail.com www.diamondnaturalbeauty.com APJ 35


STARPERFORMER

DIAMOND NATURAL BEAUTY Leaders in results-driven technology with Wellness Benefits TRADITIONALLY, the summer months are the busiest when it comes to treatments for both face and body. Diamond Natural Beauty offer amazing, cutting-edge technology that can help revolutionise your business and achieve easy and consistent growth. Just look at two of their most popular technologies that deliver leading results, while also supporting the elimination of toxins through effective lymphatic drainage. Check out the Oxy Peel and Sculpt and the Diamond Medilift:

OXY PEEL & SCULPT The Diamond Oxy Peel and Sculpt is a unique technology that is trademark protected. This incredible device will deliver four modalities all through the one device. This treatment, will not just improve the appearance of the skin, it also delivers valuable detoxifying benefits through effective lymphatic drainage. The four-step process provides an excellent synergy of skin benefits offering immediate and long-term results. The treatment is highly-effective, but also a pleasurable experience for the client. Here is how it works: APJ 36

Step 1 – Oxy Peel [Peel] Diamond Oxy Peel and Sculpt™ is a progressive, non-invasive crystal-free Microdermabrasion delivering a gentle, yet effective resurfacing treatment that removes dull and dead skin cells. It cleans the pores and aids in balancing oil production, while stimulating collagen and evening out the skin’s texture and tone. The treatment delivers an immediate fresher, brighter and younger-looking complexion. Step 2 – Infuse [Hydrate] Now that the skin is deeply cleaned the introduction of oxygen, together with key vitamins and minerals is essential for the healthy metabolism of every cell in our body – including the skin cells. Diamond Oxy Peel and Sculpt™ Oxygen Therapy regenerates and boosts the health of every cell with pure oxygen, plus essential vitamins and minerals. The treatment also strengthens and increases the production of facial collagen. From the first treatment you will see an instant boost in the skin’s glow and radiance. You will also note an immediate increase in hydration and the skin will also feel firmer and tighter with every cell completely nourished. Step 3 – Sculpt [Lift] The Sculpt portion of the treatment begins with a relaxing Crème and a comfortable pulsing and toning of the face. The areas of focus, chin, neck, jawline, eyebrows, forehead, cheeks and eyes are then firmly massaged in slow and steady motion with the sculpt hand piece. Diamond Oxy Peel and Sculpt™ focuses on the treatment of Sculpting of the Extra Cellular Matrix, (ECM) which is a filter system of the micro-lymphatic system. The treatment is delivered with a cupping wand that utilises pressure (pulsing) and suction movement to stimulate and sculpt the skin. This action will promote contouring, firming, lifting and lymphatic drainage to plump and firm the skin.


Step 4 – Power Cupping [Sculpt, Smooth & Lift] The Diamond Facial Cupping effect causes the movement of the matrix fluid which helps to relieve lymphatic stagnation and congestion. The combination of these modalities delivers not only incredible results, but also a rich, pampering, warm and sensual treatment experience, which is beneficial in rejuvenating the skin on so many levels, as well as offering soothing relaxation to the client.

DIAMOND MEDILIFT – Get the Hollywood Lift The must-have solution for face and body contouring For the first time, an efficient and effective method has been developed for on-surgical face-lifting and body contouring. The Diamond Medilift provides an advanced dynamic wavelength device that can be used to tone muscles anywhere on the body, as well as decrease and mobilise fat in certain areas. This technique is based on the response of muscles to electric stimulation. Electric stimulation has been used for years to stimulate muscle tone. It is clear that with age, muscle weakness and decreased tone are prevalent. Although one may exercise facial muscles, it is very difficult to do so when there are 108 muscles in the face. With proper pad placement, the muscles of the face can be stimulated to increase their size and tone. This will fill in the gaps that cause wrinkles from poor muscle tone. Equally important is the ability of the Medilift to tone and tighten the skin over the muscles. The program usually requires 12-24 treatments. These can be done 2-3 times per week. As with any muscle exercise, maintenance is required. Medilift requires maintenance of once a month. This procedure can replace face-lifts in many instances. The device can even be used before or after facelifts where the muscles are not toned and have lost their bulk. Surgical facelifts do not address the muscle tone in most cases.

BODY CONTOURING AND CELLULITE TREATMENT The Medilift has also been used to mobilise fat under the chin as well as on the hips, thighs and buttock. The contouring provided by one of the wavelengths can also be used to treat cellulite on the legs. We can provide a 10-minute treatment that will clearly show you the ability of this technique to elevate the drooping eyes and sagging muscles. Medilift was selected as the official salon treatment at the 64th Golden Globe Awards. Diamonds non-invasive innovative concepts have redefined face and body treatment results through cutting-edge technology that works holistically with the body’s functions. There is no better, or easier way to grow your business and retain loyal clients than through introducing them to these amazing treatments. APJ To learn more contact Diamond 0406 279 889, rgreenberg888@gmail.com or visit www.diamondnaturalbeauty.com

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NATIONALCONFERENCE

14th National Laser and Cosmetic Medicine Conference Another successful event! EACH YEAR, one of my must-attend conference events is the National Laser and Cosmetic Medicine Conference as it never fails to deliver a comprehensive mix of laser, aesthetic and cosmetic medicine topics. It also offers excellent panel discussions that allow a dynamic exchange of information among skilled practitioners and authorities in their area of expertise to discuss approaches to various clinical challenges. This event is niche, but I find it brings a more personalised approach to education. The sessions are well-planned and bring opportunities for delegate/speaker interactions, which I am sure offer great value to practitioners who attend. Endorsed by the Australasian College of Aesthetic Medicine

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(ACAM), and convened by their highly committed and energetic President and Censor-in-Chief Dr Sharron Phillipson, the event was expertly staged once again, by DC Conferences and held this year at the Sofitel in Brisbane over the first weekend in November. Following the Plenary on Saturday 3rd November Dr Michael Molton presented a Cosmetic Industry Update – is enough being done to protect the public? He challenged the importance of doctors putting their patients first and urged the need for recognised and formal education for doctors entering the field of Cosmetic Medicine. He presented a new initiative that is aiming at establishing formal qualifications for doctors. Dr Phillipson, however confirmed that the ACAM is already


offering a Diploma of Cosmetic Medicine, with the objective to produce Medical Practitioners who are safe, skilled and competent in the management of all aspects of Aesthetic Medicine. Following Dr Molton, Professor Laurence Walsh presented an amazing lecture on Laser physics and tissue interaction. This was one of the best lectures I have ever heard on Photobiology. Professor Walsh confirmed that 70% of the incidents that occur with lasers and IPLs are attributed to error due to inadequate operator training. His lecture provided clarity on how to determine the right device and the appropriate settings for the various procedures, comparing ER: YAG lasers, CO2, KTP, Diode and ND YAG lasers.

Kate Gillman from AVANT- the leading Medical Indemnity Insurer spoke on What Cosmetic Practitioners and Nurses need to know from a medico-legal perspective. Kate stressed that all practitioners need to be familiar with mandatory advertising guidelines which are set out by AHPRA and enforceable by law. She stated that the regulators are currently looking at the use of titles and who can use them, such as a ‘cosmetic surgeon’, as currently there is no protective professional title. She also stressed that testimonials are legally banned on social media and she also raised the issue of defamation and complaints posted on social media and ways of handling such issues. Kate also stated that the two key areas that are currently

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contributing to the most litigation are: Misleading claims that are not meeting with patient expectations, and insufficient patient assessment prior to treatments. This is often due to a lack of correct explaination of the procedure and a lack of signed Consent Forms and other insufficient record keeping. Another area that she covered was the growing incidents of dysmorphia and the emerging Snap Chat dysmorphia that is contributing to misconceptions of treatment outcomes. She also stressed that in such incidents, particularly with young candidates, it is important to request a mandatory psychological assessment for a referral of a second opinion to determine if they are a suitable candidate for the procedure they are seeking. I believe that there is insufficient education on the legal requirements when it comes to both medical and aesthetic procedures and I always find these lectures very informative, as they bring updates and specific clarity where practitioners are falling short. Later in the day Associated Professor Greg Goodman gave an excellent lecture on Understanding facial anatomy to minimise filler complications. In this lecture he discussed facial ageing with specific emphasis to changes to the skin, fat distribution, bone changes and considerations when delivering fillers. He stressed the importance of determining their relevance when attempting to improve facial features. He pointed out that while superficial fillers work well for wrinkles, misplaced fillers can add weight and contribute to further ptosis. He indicated that you can’t replace bone loss, but in order to replace volume you will need to bolster deeper structures. He also presented images of the incredible network of facial arteries. Professor Goodman discussed that understanding the position of blood vessels is so important in order to minimise the risk of necrosis and blindness. Just knowing your anatomy is not enough in order to avoid complications. As always, his lectures are very enlightening. Further lectures consisted of an informative update and

a panel discussion on Threads and new advances. In the afternoon, there were concurrent workshops presenting new techniques in Dermal fillers vs fat transfer, new product innovations An introduction to deoxycholic acid – an amazing new injectable for facial fat reduction for a more chiselled chin, combination techniques with PDO threads in mid-face lifting combined with hyaluronic acid. Later in the day the Nitrogen Plasma system was presented by Energist and Professor Goodman who finished the day with a lecture on Complications and Protocols. Saturday night delegates enjoyed a conference dinner party to wrap up the day. On Sunday, Platelet Rich Plasma techniques: what’s best and why? was presented by Dr Larissa Miller. The latest techniques in liposculpture was presented by Dr John Flynn. Dr Adrian Lim presented a product demonstration for Melasma, Chloasma and Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. Photo-dynamic Therapy for Sun Damage was present by Dr Michael Freeman. Workshops that followed included How to choose the right laser for your practice, by Dr David Lim, Plasma Technology for facial aesthetic indications by Dr Adam Rish, Ultherapy noninvasive Ultrasound Lift by Dr Csilla Novac, and even a nonsurgical blepharoplasty was presented by Dr Yvetter Lambert, sponsored by Cryomed. If you have never attended the National Laser and Cosmetic Medicine Conference, whether you are a cosmetic doctor, nurse, dermal therapist, or laser practitioner, this conference has so much to offer. APJ

For further information on the 2019 program contact DC Conferences Email: lcmc2018@dcconferences.com.au or phone 02 9954 4400. For further details on ACAM contact: secretariat@acam.org.au | 02 9016 4183.

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APJ 42


SKINSCIENCE

The role of Reactive Oxygen Species in SKIN AGEING By Gay Wardle WORKING ON SKIN-renewal and rejuvenation requires that we also understand what contributes to skin ageing at a cellular level.

proteins and nucleic acids. This also increases ageing cells and also ageing of the skin, but in a different way. While, both cause aggravation and deterioration, however they have their own pathways of doing so. The difference is that cells need a certain amount of ROS for survival whereas they do not need free radicals.

In this article skin expert Gay Wardle will focus on explaining the role of Reactive Oxygen Species (ROS) and how they contribute to ageing skin. ROS is an oxidant that is generated THE CELL’S OWN DEFENCE SYSTEM AGAINST INCREASED by the mitochondria during oxidative metabolism. OverROS activation can cause an imbalance where the cell is not capable of having an effective antioxidant response. Excess It is important that the cell has a detoxification process ROS causes oxidative stress that as well as impacting of ROS for survival. This will upon our skin cells, has been enable the cell to defend against implicated in many diseases It is important to note that the level of oxidative stress, which in turn such as diabetes, cancer, neurodegeneration and ageing. deterioration to the cell will increase with prevents DNA damage. There are a number of non-enzymatic Oxidative stress is the term used the amount of exposure and the amount molecule antioxidants that play when there is an overactivation of ROS. So, what is ROS? of ROS. The cell will respond by leaving a role in this detoxification. Glutathione could be considered the cell cycle and entering the Go Phase. the most important intraFirst, ROS is a phrase used to cellular defense against ROS. describe a number of reactive With continued increase of ROS, there is a tripeptide, which molecules that derive from is no progression of life within that cell, Glutathione serves as an abundant target for molecular oxygen, a combination causing apoptosis, or cell death to occur. attack. When there is a reaction of superoxide anion, hydrogen between ROS and glutathione, peroxide and hydroxyl radical, oxidisation will occur. The ratio which are combinations of of the oxidised form of glutathione is a huge indicator of the radical and non-radical oxygen species. These by-products are increased amount of oxidative stress of cells. generated during mitochondrial electron transport of aerobic respiration or the partial reduction of oxygen. Vitamin C is not only capable of reducing ROS, it also can correct oxidised glutathione. Vitamin C can also reduce Before discussing the critical side-effects of accumulated oxidised Vitamin E. The lipid soluble Vitamin E has a similar ROS, it is important to know that ROS plays a crucial role in role in membranes where it reduces oxidation. signaling molecules in cell-proliferation and survival. Their role in cell signaling, includes, apoptosis (cell death), gene It is important to note that the level of deterioration to the cell expression and the activation of cell signaling cascades. All of will increase with the amount of exposure and the amount this occurs through both intra and intercellular messengers. of ROS. The cell will respond by leaving the cell cycle and In order for a cell to remain healthy, it requires a certain entering the Go Phase. With continued increase of ROS, there amount of ROS to be released each day. is no progression of life within that cell causing apoptosis, or cell death to occur. WHAT IS THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN FREE-RADICALS AND ROS? SIGNAL TRANSDUCTION Before proceeding, it is important to clarify the difference The combination of ROS and antioxidant enzymes enable between free radicals and reactive oxygen species. ROS are enzymes to turn on and off by redox signaling. Redox very toxic to cells. When there are too many ROS there will signaling molecules are cellular messengers found in every be damage to mitochondria DNA. This has many side-affects, cell of the body. They are vital for cell function and life. one being ageing cells and also ageing skin. Free radicals Redox signaling occurs when a biological system alters with possess an unpaired electron making them highly reactive, a response to a change in the level of ROS. Due to the creating much damage to all macromolecules, including lipids,

APJ 43


respiratory chain and other core metabolic machineries within the mitochondria itself, therefore, the mitochondria is an important redox signaling node. Mitogenic signaling happens at the outer membrane of the cell, which is a ligand receptor. During replication of cells, the cycle is tightly regulated where there are several check points. Each one of these check points is regulated by proteins and protein complexes that are influenced by the oxidative state of the cell. H2O2, or hydrogen peroxide is the main ROS involved in redox signaling to and from mitochondria, although other forms of ROS are also contributors. Nitric oxide diffusing into mitochondria competes with H2O2, as this happens, the respiration is slowed down and ROS increases. OXIDATIVE DNA DAMAGE DNA damage to both the mitochondria DNA and the cell DNA occurs with increased ROS. As ROS is a result of respiration from the mitochondria, it will be the mitochondria DNA that will be the first to deteriorate. Ultra violet radiation can also increase reactive oxygen species, when this happens there will be an effect to other cellular organelles as oxidative stress is increased, mitochondria DNA is mutated and further mutation occurs to the cells’ DNA. When it comes to the skin, keratinocyte cell that have increased ROS also have a trypsin and heat–sensitive material that generates further ROS when exposed to UV radiation. Lipid peroxidation occurs because of elevated ROS to both cell membrane and mitochondria membrane. Inevitable senescence and cell apoptosis occur, causing pigment and vascular changes that contribute to an aged skin.

DNA REPAIR SYSTEMS DNA repair systems work to buffer oxidative damage to DNA in cells, thereby helping to safeguard cells from damage. DNA repair enzymes regularly and they monitor damage to DNA in order to fix errors as they arise. They target a broad range of errors, but if the errors are not repaired, cell death and the change from a healthy to a cancerous cell may occur. It has become extremely important to understand how repair systems work to prevent and treat oxidative damage to DNA in cells. The damage that can occur when the systems are left unchecked, or are malfunctioning is crucial to cellular health. Current research is focusing on several aspects of oxidative damage mechanisms to DNA, this research is valuable in finding ways to improve a cell's ability to withstand oxidative damage, by protecting its DNA. CONCLUSION We are all exposed to sources of oxidative damage, which affects our cells and can lead to damage, poor health and disease, if left unchecked. While low levels of ROS are needed for cell proliferation, regulation, signal transduction and gene expression, increased levels will cause mutation to DNA therefore increase the risk of ageing, as well as skin disease. The use of antioxidants both internal and external may assist in regulating ROS. Fortunately, our DNA repair systems are equipped to handle much of the damage that occurs to DNA, although daily applications of topical anti-oxidants is essential. APJ

For a list of references, please contact the editor.

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APJ 44

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MOIST’SEAL ANTI-AGEING SKIN HYDRATING GEL With summer on our doorstep, protecting the skin is critical and with the warmer weather dehydration is at a higher risk. Moist’Seal developed by Cellbone, offers you the perfect solution. It is a light, oil-free serum that seals in moisture and keeps the skin hydrated and supple. The highest quality Lactic Calcium in Moist’Seal is made from 100 % fermented Calcium Lactate from Japan. Lactic Calcium combined with Vitamin K2 has anti-ageing benefits improving the skin’s density and elasticity. Gamma Poly Glutamic Acid improves the appearance of fine lines and skin elasticity. Another excellent benefit is that Poly Glutamic acid can hold 5000 times its own weight in water so this serum is super-hydrating. At the same time, it assists in clearing stagnant melanin to brighten the skin. The Moist’Seal leaves the skin feeling silky smooth, while also improving its appearance and texture - perfect for a long hot summer. Contact Cosmedicell Technologies 07 5580 0403, E: cellboneordersau@gmail.com

PRODUCT MANDELIC-C REJUVENATING C-SERUM If you are looking for a highly effective antioxidant treatment to protect the skin against free radical damage from the sun and other environmental factors, you can’t go past Cellbone’s incredible Mandalic-C Rejuvenating C-Serum. Containing an amazing 23% L-Ascorbic Acid, 3% Mandelic Acid and 0.3% Idebenone. This product penetrates at a deep cellular level providing skin renewal benefits and improving hydration levels. This antioxidant treatment protects against free radical damage from the sun and other environmental factors, it exfoliates and cleanses the pores, clarifies acne-prone skin conditions and rapidly improves skin texture. It also works to diminish fine lines and wrinkles, fades hyperpigmentation and discoloration revealing a fresher, more rejuvenated skin. Direct-Ascorbic™ technology provides enhanced active delivery of L-Ascorbic Acid to the skin. Contact Cosmedicell Technologies 07 5580 0403, E: cellboneordersau@gmail.com

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PURE ROSE WATER HYDRATING MIST Rosa Damascena (Rose) Distillate is considered as the purist rose in the world, and renowned for its superior quality and therapeutic constituents, offering incredible relaxing, antimicrobial and antidepressant properties. The aroma can also be helpful during times of stress. Pure Rose Water Hydration Mist, developed by Cellbone is a gentle calming hydration mist, containing pure rose water (99.9%) that replenishes moisture in the skin and is suitable for all skin types, including the most sensitive. Pure Rose Water Hydrations Mist is beneficial on so many levels. It is a musthave product this summer and a wonderful addition to carry in your handbag to refresh and invigorate the skin, while uplifting your spirits with its beautiful fragrance. Pure Rose Water Hydration Mist also contains Hydrolysed Sodium Hyaluronate making it super-hydrating. It replenishes the skin and minimises the appearance of visible signs of ageing. Contact Cosmedicell Technologies 07 5580 0403, E: cellboneordersau@gmail.com

INNOVATIONS NEW-GENERATION HIGHLY-ACTIVE ENZYME MASKS Enzymes are renowned for providing targeted skin renewal by removing damaged cells, while being gentle on the skin. Now two highly effective powdered enzyme masks have been launched by Dr Anne-Marie’s Dermal Care: BALANCING ENZYME EXFOLIATING MASK for oily/ problematic skin types, it contains pineapple enzymes, tea tree oils extract, kaolin (white clay) and green clay, coconut milk and rice powder to help deeply cleanse and provide antibacterial protection and restore skin balance. REVITALISE ENZYME EXFOLIATING MASK is formulated for normal, dry and mature skin types. It contains coconut milk, white and pink clay, papaya and pineapple enzymes and lavender oil. This amazing product provides a gentle, yet thorough exfoliation eliminating dead skin cells and preparing it for optimal absorption of the Brightening Serum to revive the skin with new vitality. To stock Dr Anne-Marie’s Dermal Care phone 0403 846 622 Email Info@dramdermalcare.com.au www.amdermalcare. com.au

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SKIN RENEWAL SERUMS All it take is just 2-4 drops of Anne-Marie’s Dermal Care Skin to restore skin balance, tone and plump the skin and support it for optimal health. Brightening C Serum is designed to brighten the skin tone and improve its vitality and is suitable for normal, dry and mature skin types. It contains an amazing cocktail of highlyeffective natural actives including, Aloe vera blend with a complex blend of vitamin C extracts that work synergistically. Additionally, it contains Hydrolysed Marine Collagen, Rosehip, Evening Primrose and Jojoba oil, Apple and Melon Fruit Extract, Beta-Glucan, Seaweed Extract and Portulaca Extract just to name a few. Corrective Serum is formulated to restore skin balance for oily and problematic skin types. The goodies in this formula include Licorice Root extract, Hydrolysed Marine Collagen, Aloe Vera Leaf extract, Macadamia, Jojoba and Soya Bean oils, White Tea Leaf extract, Rose Abolute and natural vitamin E as well as Kakadu Plum Extract and Sodium Hyaluronate. Both these two serums provide excellent results when used in conjunction with the respective Enzyme Exfoliating Masks. Contact Dr Anne-Marie’s Dermal Care 0403 846 622 Or Info@dramdermalcare.com.au www.amdermalcare.com.au

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RETRACTABLE BROW PENCILS The jane iredale Retractable Brow Pencils expertly fill and define brows with a dual ended, ultra-fine retractable precision tip on one end and an expert shaping spoolie on the other. They contain a long-wearing formula that is waterproof and stays put without smudging. Easy-to-hold, ergonomic barrel allows you perfect control to create precise hairlike strokes. The medium coverage shades are realistic and blend with your natural hair colouring. The Retractable Brow Pencils are now available in five natural-looking colours: Blonde, Brunette, Dark Brunette, NEW Ash Blonde and NEW Medium Brunette. Contact Margifox Distributors 1300 850 008. or visit margifox.com.au

INNOVATIONS IT’S THE SEASON TO CELEBRATE PUREPRESSED EYE SHADOW KIT – NEW SHADE: PURPLE RAIN From elegant to edgy, the jane iredale Eye Shadow Kits are silky-smooth and deliver the style you want, while staying put for long-lasting, crease-free colour. Use alone, layer, or blend together for different looks. Packaged in a sleek mirrored rose gold compact with a dual-ended wand for effortless application. The new Purple Rain shade is a selection of five highly pigmented, crease resistant and long-lasting luminous shadows. Shade names: Mist, Sprinkle, Shower, Cloudburst and Deluge. Contact Margifox Distributors 1300 850 008. or visit margifox.com.au

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YOUR SUCCESS is OUR PRIORITY APJ 51


COSMETICINGREDIENTS

HOW TO READ A COSMETIC INGREDIENT LABEL By Jacine Greenwood

ONE OF THE MOST requested trainings by aestheticians is the ability to understand and decipher ingredients. This skill when mastered, allows you to accurately determine if the product you are examining will bring about the cellular changes you need to correct the presenting skin issue. Today, consumers are savvier and more aware of trends and ingredients and you need to be able to accurately guide them on whether the latest craze is truly going to be of benefit for them, or simply wasting their money.

complicated names, but are safe to use and even have an important function in the product. For example, colourless turmeric has the name Tetrahydrodiferuloylmethane. To the uneducated this sounds like a chemical, yet it is a natural ingredient and approved by Ecocert - the governing body in France for Organic Ingredients. So, remember that just because an ingredient is not known to you, or appears unfamiliar, it does not mean that it is not natural and that is it not safe either.

The key to treating skin is understanding the ingredients that are not only in your own products, but also in your competitor’s products, or the products they are using at home. Unless you learn to decipher approximate percentages of actives, you cannot successfully interpret whether the products they are asking you about have sufficient quantity of actives to provide efficacy with results.

IT IS ONLY THE FIRST FIVE INGREDIENTS THAT COUNT

UNDERSTANDING NOMENCLATURE Ingredients lists are usually written in the common name in the USA or their INCI name. INCI stands for International nomenclature of cosmetic ingredients and is a naming system for ingredients based on scientific nomenclature. Plant ingredients are usually listed in their Latin names, with a common name in brackets. For example, rosemary oil would be listed as rosmarinus officinalis (rosemary) oil. I CAN’T PRONOUCE IT, SO IT’S BAD There is a big misconception that if you can’t pronounce it, or you don’t recognise the ingredient as natural, then it is a chemical and bad for you. This is not always true. There are plenty of common or naturally-derived ingredients that have

APJ 52

This is the biggest myth that has ever been perpetuated in the industry. I am not sure where this originated, but it has been perpetuated for decades that if the active ingredient is not in the first five ingredients then it is not effective. Ingredients all have different percentages required for efficacy. Some actives are only required as low as 0.02% for efficacy and others require 3-5%. You cannot judge an ingredient by its place in an ingredient deck. So, if you can’t judge an ingredient by its place in an ingredient deck, then how do you determine if the product works? The way you determine is by knowing the required percentage for efficacy of an ingredient. For example, Niacinamide in order to reduce sebum is required at 4% in a formula. Salicylic acid is required at 2% in a formula. The way you can decipher these is by certain key ingredients in a formula. These key ingredients give clues to the percentages of other ingredients, and it is this methodology that allows cosmetic chemists to be able to reverse-engineer a formula. Technical documents on cosmetic actives also give a recommended usage rate. If the usage is less than the


recommended percentage then it is unlikely to be effective and is in the product purely for a marketing story. Some of these documents you may be able to get a hold of, however others you may not be able to access. Not everything is available on the internet. There are many companies who restrict this information for confidentiality purposes. In Australia the regulations for labels are that ingredients must be listed from the highest percentage to the lowest percentage of ingredients. Once an ingredient is 1% or less then they can be listed in any order. It is because of these regulations for the listing of cosmetic actives and because of restrictions on certain cosmetic ingredients, such as preservatives, that we are able to decipher and interpret approximate percentages of ingredients. This will allow you to analyse whether an active ingredient is in a high enough percentage to be effective in the skin. The following Ingredients give clues: Emulsifying Waxes Fragrance Surfactants Preservatives Chelating Agents Gums and Thickeners These ingredients are commonly used in the majority of cosmetics. By locating them within a formula listing you will be able to have a rough guide on the percentages of actives. EMULSIFYING WAXES Emulsifying Waxes are commonly used at 3-6% in a formula.

Examples include: Cetearyl Alcohol and Cetearyl Glucoside Glyceryl Stearate and Peg-100 Stearate However, these are usually written individually on an ingredient deck. Cetearyl Alcohol and Cetearyl Glucoside may contain 60% Cetearyl Alcohol and 40% Cetearyl Glucoside. Therefore, if it is used at 3% in a formula then the following percentages would be present: 60% x 3 = 1.8 40% x 3 = 1.2. Both ingredients should be listed accordingly on the label in descending order as both are above 1%. The percentages of each component, is not normally available on the internet and is not public knowledge. Therefore, my suggestion is with mixtures of waxes to go with the average use of 3-6% for the combined blend. FRAGRANCE Fragrance and essential oils have guidelines and restrictions in the amount that is permitted to be used, depending on whether the product is leave-on or rinse-off, whether the product is intended for infants, or pregnant woman as well. Fragrance is typically not used at more than 0.2% in facial products and 0.5% for essential oils. Some essential oils such as Tea Tree oil are considered a medicine and as such are listed on the SUSMP (The Poisons Standard). The recommendation by the EU (European Union is to restrict the usage to no more than 1.2% in a facial product.

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Trade Name Germaben II

INCI

Use Levels

Propylene Glycol & Diazolidinyl Urea & Methyl Paraben & Propyl Paraben

0.5-1%

SURFACTANTS

Suttocide

Sodium Hydroxymethyl glycinate

Up to 1% as supplied (0.5% as active)

Plantaserve M

Benzyl Alcohol & Salicylic Acid & Glycerine & Sorbic Acid

1%

Glyceryl Caprylate

Glyceryl Caprylate

Leucidal Liquid

Leuconostoc/ Radish Root Ferment Filtrate

2-4%

Leucidal Complete

Leuconostoc/ Radish Root Ferment Filtrate & Lactobacillus

4%

Herbigerm

Propylene glycol, Diazolidinyl Urea, Methylparaben, Propylparaben, Rosemary Oil, Tea Tree Oil, Grapeseed Oil

1%

0.3-1%

Naticide

Fragrance

Phenoxyethanol

Phenoxyethanol

Up to 1%

Plantaserve E

Phenoxyethanol, Ethylglycerine

0.5-1%

Plantaserve P

Phenoxyethanol, Caprylyl Glycol

0.75-1.5%

Plantaserve S

Origanum Vulgare Leaf Extract, Thumus Vulgaris Extract, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract, Mentha Piperita leaf extract, Lavendula Angustifolia leaf extract, Citrus Medica Limonum Peel Extract, Cinnamonum Zeylanicum Bark Extract, Hydrastis Canadensis Root Extract, Olive Leaf Extract.

0.5%

Potassium Sorbet

Potassium Sorbet

Up to 0.6%

Sodium Benzoate

Sodium Benzoate

0.5 max for leave on or 2.5% for rinse off

APJ 54

There are also many new preservatives that bare the INCI name of Fragrance or Parfum which act in the capacity of preserving the product. Fragrance is no longer just perfume, it can be a preservative in the product. An example of this is Naticide, which bears the INCI name of Parfum.

0.3-1%

Most surfactants typically contain water as a component of the formula. For example, Sodium Laureth Sulphate will contain water as part of the surfactant mixture. There are other powdered surfactants such as Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate that may not contain any water and are 100% active material. If you look at starting formula examples, they may contain 25% Sodium Lauryl Sulfate but this may only be 40% active which means that of the 25% in the formula 60% of it is water. Therefore. there would be 25 x 40% = 10% of Sodium Lauryl Sulfate in a formula in reality, not 25%. This same principle can apply to some preservatives as well. An example is Leucidal Complete, which typical use is 2-4%. What is less well known though is that the formula contains 37.5% water. The INCI name for Leucidal complete can be seen in Table one. It contains the following: Water 37.5% Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate 37.5% Lactobacillus 20% Coconut Fruit Extract 5% So, if you were using a formula at 4%, it would have the equivalent of: Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate 1.5% Lactobacillus 0.8% Coconut Fruit Extract 0.2% Leucidal Liquid is another ingredient made by the same company. Typical usage is 2-4%. The Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate makes up 50% of the formula, so usage of 4% gives 2% of the ingredient in the formula. Let’s look at the label: Water, Glycerin, Coconut Alkanes, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter, Glyceryl Stearate, Cetyl Alcohol, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Lauryl Laurate, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Maltodextrin, Albizia Julibrissin Bark Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber) Fruit Extract, (Lemon) Citrus Medica Limonum Peel Extract,Argania Spinosa (Argan) Kernel Oil, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Salicornia Herbacae Extract, Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil, Sodium Hydroxide, Buddleja Davidii Meristem Cell Culture ,Coenochloris Signiensis Extract, Citrus Grandis (Grapefruit) Fruit Extract, Salvia Officinalis (Sage) Leaf Extract, Lecithin, Hydroxyacetophenone, Spilanthes Acmella Flower Bud Extract, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Stearic Acid, Lavandula Angustifolia (Lavender) Flower/Leaf/Stem/Extract, Xanthan Gum, Pyrus Malus (Apple) Fruit Extract, Sodium Phytate, Aloe Barbadensis (Aloe Vera) Leaf Juice, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Vanilla Planifolia Fruit Extract, Citric Acid. In this formula, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate would not be more than 2% of the formula. You can safely assume that any ingredient below that is less than 2%. It may even be 1% or less depending on the percentage they have used.


Let’s also examine Sodium Hyaluronate that is in the formula. This is typically not used at more than 0.6% in a formula.

that contain much higher percentages of oils, where oil is the major ingredient.

Based on this you can also safely assume that everything below Sodium Hyaluronate is less than 1% in the formula. This means that the Buddleja Davidii Meristem Cell Culture, along with many of the actives is in a percentage that is not effective. It is in there purely for a marketing story. This is an example of a product that is not effective.

CHELATING AGENTS

This ingredient needs to be used at 1-3% for efficacy in a formula. It is likely this ingredient is less than 0.5%.

Disodium EDTA 0.05-0.2% Sodium Phytate 0.05-0.2%

As an aesthetician, you will not necessarily be able to gain access to technical data sheets, however you do have common ingredients at your disposal that you can decipher with. Sodium Hyaluronate is a classic example. It is not used at more than 0.6% in general and is always used less than 1% as it thickens the formula and makes it appear like glue in too high a percentage. It is also not required in a high percentage to be effective.

GUMS AND THICKENERS

PRESERVATIVES THAT ARE COMMONLY USED The limit for preservative use is different depending on the application of the product. A product that is rinsed-off can have a higher percentage of preservative than a leave-on product. The reason is because any ingredient that is left on the skin has the potential to irritate. The percentages listed below are the maximum percentages that are permitted in cosmetic formulas. Parabens in a formula are only permitted at a maximum of 0.4% for any singular paraben. For example, methylparaben maximum permitted use is 0.4% individually. When they are combined, such as in a formula we have looked at, then the maximum is as per the recommended use levels. Using the example of the table to the left. If we were to look at an example of an ingredient deck, the following ingredient deck contains Phenoxyethanol in its list, so let’s interpret the ingredient deck to examine the approximate percentages.

Chelating agents are designed to bind metal ions in a formula. They are not used at more than the percentages below. Where you see these ingredients on a label then the ingredients are less than 0.2%.

Gums and thickeners are used to give stability and texture to formulas. The ingredients below are the most common ingredients. The recommended percentages of use are given. Carbomer 0.2-0.4% Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acryalte Crosspolymer 0.1-0.3% Xanthan Gum 0.1-1% CONCLUSION By learning the common ingredients that are used by many suppliers you can interpret approximate percentages. There are ingredients that are used at typical percentages, this allows you to know with certainty that if there are ingredients listed after it on a label, they must contain less, or the same, as that ingredient in percentage. This is how you can decipherer ingredient labels successfully. APJ APAN IS CURRENTLY PLANNING TO CONDUCT A ONEDAY WORKSHOP ON “UNDERSTANDING YOUR INGREDIENT LISTING” WITH JACINE GREENWOOD IN MARCH 2019. IF YOU ARE INTERESTED IN FURTHER DETAILS PLEASE CONTACT US FOR FURTHER DETAILS. E: info@apanetwork. com Ph: 07 5593 0360.

Water (Aqua), Corylus Avellana (Hazel) Seed Oil, Glycerin, Stearic Acid, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil, Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil, Cetearyl Alcohol, Ceteareth-20 Oenothera Biennis (Evening Primrose) Oil, PEG-20 Stearate, Rosa Canina Fruit Oil, Glyceryl Stearate, Lavandula Angustifolia (Lavender) Oil, Phenoxyethanol, Tocopherol, Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Oil, Citrus Grandis (Grapefruit) Seed Extract, Triticum Vulgare (Wheat) Germ Oil, Disodium EDTA, Salivia Officinalis (Sage) Oil, Sodium Citrate, Linalool, d-Limonene. So, looking at the ingredient deck we can see Phenoxyethanol highlighted. We know this ingredient is not used at more than 1% in a formula. This is actually cosmetic regulations, so it would be prohibited from being used as more than that. This means that everything below Phenoxyethanol is at least 1% or less. It also potentially means that ingredients above it may also be less than 1% of the formula, as once an ingredient is 1% or less it can be listed in ANY ORDER. We also know that Disodium EDTA use used at a maximum of 0.2% as well. Tocopherol Acetate is not usually used at more than 0.5% in a formula, which also confirms that all of the ingredients below Phenoxyethanol are less than 1%. We can also tell that because the first ingredient is water that this is an oil-in-water formula, which means the majority of the formula is water. These types of formulas typically do not have more than 25% oil in them. The emulsifiers also required for these types of formulas differ from formulas

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SKINBIOLOGY

HEALTHY BEAUTY AND THE CHANGING PERCEPTION OF BACTERIA By Tina Viney

MENTION THE WORD microbiome and the standard response from many is that it relates to the digestive system. In health and nutrition circles this has been a key topic for decades, and the trend for foods that act on bacteria in the gut is well established. While recent research is shedding light to the gut/brain connection and the importance of gut health for disease prevention, moods and even hormonal health, the skin also has its own unique ecosystem of microbiota which changes throughout a person’s lifetime according to their age, diet, environment and lifestyle. It is now a well-established fact that balance in the gut microbiome contributes to overall wellbeing, including skin health, but does the skin’s own unique ecosystem also have an impact on its appearance and its health? Scientists, dermatologists and several cosmetic formulators have been giving the matter serious consideration and now consumers are also starting to want to know more. THE GROWING TREND FOR HEALTHY BEAUTY​ Interest in the skin microbiome reflects a broader trend for “healthy beauty”. In the digital age, people have all the tools they need at their fingertips to monitor, maintain and improve their health. As an outcome, they are increasingly taking their healthcare needs into their own hands and paying attention to the impact that lifestyle, physical activity and nutrition have on improving both their appearance and in minimising health risks. With new scientific discoveries challenging accepted views about bacteria in relation to health in general, it is not surprising that people are considering the implications for their skin. From my own research on global trends I believe that in the very near future we will see the continued expansion of the aesthetics industry progressively being redefined through the introduction of protocols that go beyond the skin to support all the systems of the body including the endocrine and nervous systems, with treatments delivered through evidenced-based techniques. As professionals, we

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need to continue to grow our knowledge in pathophysiology, nutrition and stress management, or our clients may overtake us with their knowledge. Coming back to the skin, several skincare formulators are now taking a closer look at the original scientific research and proprietary consumer studies on the skin microbiome. THE EVOLVING MICROBIOME NARRATIVE​ In the past, microbes have been thought of as something that should be removed from the skin, but this view is beginning to change. The scientific community and skincare brands are currently leading the conversation and investigating the concept of viewing the skin as a living ecosystem. They appear excited about investigating new regimes to promote balance in the skin’s microbiome and can see how this supports broader, natural, or holistic beauty trends. Generally speaking, consumers are still somewhat reticent about the relevance of microbiomes in relation to skincare as the idea of bacteria as “bad” is still dominating. However, a growing number of online discussions suggest that new product launches have piqued curiosity. To harness this enthusiasm, the professional skincare industry also needs to offer clients simple explanations about what the skin microbiome is, why it is relevant to specific skincare concerns and which products work and how. While the relevance of microbiome to skin health is not exactly a new concept, ongoing studies are providing us with valuable information on the role of specific strands of bacteria and their role on the skin. For the sake of simple education here is a brief outline on the role of microbiome in relation to skincare: Analysis of the skincare market has highlighted four approaches to microbiome in skincare: Removing bacteria: ​this approach is long established and commonplace in mainstream cleansers and spot treatments, typically aimed at teenagers and people with acne-prone skin. Essentially, it is the traditional, well-established concept. The


objective is that harmful bacteria that contributes to skin disease are mitigated through anti-bacterial agents.

LOOKING AT THE FLIPSIDE – A UNIQUE APPROACH TO EPIDERMAL CARE​

Prebiotic: ​this approach focuses on feeding “good” bacteria. It is typically used in products such as cleansers and fits well with a narrative of gentle, natural skincare.

Even bacteria considered to be “good” can become harmful in some conditions and the skin microbiome is still very much uncharted territory. For this reason, formulators are now combining expertise in microbiology and epidermal bioactive agents to carry out cutting-edge research. Recent studies have tended to focus on identifying bacteria on the skin, but new research will seek to understand more about the conditions in which microbes are either beneficial or harmful to the skin, what triggers imbalances in the skin flora and how to rebalance these. It will also look at how some of the less usual strains of bacteria in the skin microbiome affect the skin’s appearance.

It is important to note that the food sources of probiotics are not the same as those of prebiotics. Probiotics are special strains of helpful micro-organisms found in foods such as yogurt, kimchi, and kefir. Foods with prebiotics include garlic, onions, oats, barley, wheat bran, asparagus, bananas, and flaxseed, as well as a plant fibre known as inulin, found in chicory root. Some of these plant extracts or their derivatives are included in skincare products (like serums and moisturisers) so you can apply prebiotics to enhance your skin’s microbiome. Even better for the skin when applied topically, are prebiotic plant sugars, such as xylitol, rhamnose, and a large group of ingredients known as fructo-oligosaccharides, which are potent sources of prebiotics (not to mention being natural hydrators). Other effective prebiotics include minerals such as selenium, which is also showing promise. You’ll find these ingredients in a variety of leave-on skincare products. Probiotic: ​this approach focuses on adding “good” bacteria (extracts rather than live cultures). Probiotics naturally live on the surface of skin, creating a protective veil referred to as the skin’s microbiome. When your skin’s microbiome is in balance, it helps offset factors that can negatively influence skin, such as factors that lead to redness, dryness, and a weakened surface that more quickly shows signs of ageing from environmental attack. Applying good probiotics to the skin along with the prebiotics that help probiotics thrive can keep the surface of skin (the first line of defence), balanced, younger-looking, and more resilient to environmental pollution. Postbiotic​: this approach involves adding by-products of bacteria. They are usually combined with pre, or probiotic treatments, although a few postbiotics, such as hyaluronic acid, are already known in their own right. In summary, prebiotic are like the fertiliser, or food that encourages certain bacteria to grow. On the other hand, probiotics are like the live bacteria, and postbiotics are the chemical by-product of the bacteria or fragments of dead bacterial cells. I believe that the strongest skincare products emerging on the market will be the ones with prebiotics. Some prebiotics encourage specific healthy strains of bacteria, and others increase the diversity of the bacteria on your skin, which is really important. When you remove the diversity, that’s when you see problems like rosacea, acne, fine lines and discolouration. In essence, good bacteria act as protective agents to support the skin’s immunity, so in their absence, the skin becomes more vulnerable and susceptible to disease, degeneration and ageing. Skincare brands currently offering products are generally focused on prebiotic and probiotic solutions. Some take a scientific stance with products designed to address specific concerns and benefits, such as reducing wrinkles. Others place the emphasis on nature, overall skin health, holistic lifestyles and green beauty. From microbiome-friendly cleansers and moisturisers, to microbiome-enhancing probiotic mists and serums, there is plenty of opportunity for innovation and to redefine or reposition established products.

Some formulators are combining current and already wellestablished research on epidermal care, known as corneocare with a novel approach to the skin’s microbiome, which has been coined epibiotic. In essence epibiotic describes the relationship between two organisms in which one grows on the other, but without being parasitic. This approach is built on the belief that a strong epidermal barrier and balanced skin microbiome are both needed to restore, strengthen and preserve skin integrity. This is because the epidermis both provides the environment in which microbes thrive and acts as a barrier, protecting the body against bacterial infiltration. By focusing on the interaction of microbiota on facial skin and the scalp, and supporting biological processes in the epidermis, it is possible to build a balanced and strong epidermal barrier to achieve a fresh, vibrant complexion or a hydrated, comfortable scalp. CREATING THE RIGHT ENVIRONMENT FOR HEALTHY AND GLOWING SKIN​ Scientists have already made encouraging discoveries with some novel ingredients. Syn-up, a unique peptide derivative, which boosts skin barrier strength by rebalancing plasmin levels and promoting a harmonious interaction between the epidermis and skin microbiome. At a microbe level, it has been shown in-vitro​to act directly on Staphylococcus​ aureus, reducing levels of the bacteria, and at a molecule level, it has been shown to reversibly inhibit the serine proteases urokinase and plasmin. In-vivo​studies back up the benefits of this action: after 29 days of using the peptide, volunteers showed a significant improvement in skin resilience, smoothness and hydration and reported a reduction in skin sensitivity. The skin microbiome also has an impact on scalp condition because microbial infiltration can lead to inflammation in the epidermis at the hair shaft, weakening the skin barrier and exacerbating flaking skin in the scalp. In vitro​tests have shown that another ingredient pentavitin, a unique, skinidentical carbohydrate complex, can balance microbial activity in the scalp barrier by influencing the equilibrium of species such as Malassezia furfur​and Staphylococcus​ epidermidis​in the scalp microbiome. The benefits of this are reduced dryness and irritation. Consumer test panels confirm that pentavitin ​ reduces flakiness and itchiness caused by dehydration, leaving the scalp softer, smoother, hydrated and more resilient. As new research identifying ingredients that can support the skin’s microbiome, we will see the continuing advances of cosmetic solutions to promote skin health and stimulate the skin’s natural defences that will offer better treatment solutions. APJ

For a list of references, please contact the editor. APJ 57


STARPERFORMER

A Highly Effective Solution for Acne and Problematic Skin AROMACLEAR PHYT’S LABORATORIES have developed AROMACLEAR - a complete range formulated to meet the specific needs of acne-prone and oily skin. The range effectively assists in: •

Removing excess sebum

Regulating sebum production

Eliminating blemishes

Purifying and refining the skin texture

Mattifying

The ingredients in this breakthrough formulation are 100% natural and certified organic and focus on essential oils known for their crucial role in the successful management of acne-prone and oily skin types expertly blended with Jojoba, and Grapeseed cold pressed vegetable oils. The synergy of these essential and non-comedogenic vegetable oils effectively regulate the secretion of sebum, maintain skin elasticity, while providing a mattifying effect, an ideal solution for oily skin! The AROMACLEAR range brings four critical steps to the beauty ritual of an acne-prone and oily skin: PURIFYING CLEANSING FOAM First essential step, this soap-free purifying and cleansing foam gently eliminates impurities and excess sebum. Used morning and evening, this gentle Purifying Cleansing Foam will regulate excess sebum for a healthierlooking skin. The formula combines the synergetic benefit of Alfalfa and Burdock extract, Wild pansy, Geranium, Tea Tree, Lavendin and Sweet Orange essential oils. BALANCING CREAM FOR YOUNG SKIN The second step in the ritual, this 4-in-1 non-comedogenic moisturiser was

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formulated to reduce imperfections in 7-days. This moisturiser brings a perfect combination of anti-microbial and purifying plant extracts together with essential oils to tighten pores and silica to absorb excess sebum and mattify. Used morning and evening, the skin looks healthier, refined, pores are tighter and less visible. Active ingredients include Salicylic Acid, Zinc and PCA Copper, Thyme, Lavender, Marjory, Clove, Lemon, Cypress essential oils together with Lavender hydrolat, Silica, Grapeseed and Jojoba oils. BALANCING CREAM FOR ADULT SKIN This smooth non-comedogenic cream targets the three types of imperfections affecting an adult oily, acne-prone skin: shine, open pores and blemishes. It is formulated to regulate the production of sebum, tighten the appearance of pores, hydrate and mattify. Used day and night, day-after-day, imperfections are reduced, the complexion is radiant and shine-free thanks to the astringent and healing properties of Olibanum incense, Rosemary, Cypress, Marjory, Clove, Thyme, Lemon, Lavender and Petit Grain essential oils (all of 100% natural origin and certified organic). 3-in-1 EVENING SERUM The key and highlight of the oily, acne-prone skin daily ritual, this potent essential oil concentrate will work most effectively during the night when the skin is more receptive. It purifies, balances and hydrates the skin, while reducing imperfections and tightening dilated pores. Used every night, it is meant to be used on its own and replaces a night cream. It effectiveness comes from the synergy of Olibanum Incense, Rosemary Cypress, Petit Grain, Camphor, Lemon, Thyme, Cinnamon and Lavender essential oils. (Not recommended for pregnant or nursing mothers). BALANCING MASK A 2-in-1 non-drying cream formulation that combines the benefits of a mask and the effects of an exfoliator is made with three natural clays combined with charcoal, this balancing mask will absorb impurities and excess sebum, while essential oils will purify the skin. Applied once or twice a week blemishes will reduce, the skin will become radiant, mattified and pores will be refined. The mask can be combined with Serum Purete for increased absorption and clarifying benefits. Ingredients include Amber powder, vegetable charcoal, White, Yellow and Green Clay, Jojoba vegetable oil, Silica, Lavendin, Tea Tree and Rosemary essential oils. ANTI-SPOT ROLL-ON This intensive roll-on cocktail of purifying essential oils is designed to neutralise blemishes and imperfections with 100% precision. Within four days of morning and evening topical application, spots and imperfections are counteracted, dried and significantly reduced. This sturdy, handy roll-on formula brings the synergetic power of Mallow, Sage, Lemon, Lavender, Clove, Oregano, Geranium, Centella Asiatica essential oils. Phyt’s formulations are made with the highest level of purity and efficacy, utilising clinically-proven organic botanicals and essential oils with amazing delivery systems.

Contact PHYT’S AUSTRALIA 1300 656 627| info@phyts.com|www.phyts.com.au


AROMACLEAR THE GENTLE, EFFECTIVE TREATMENT SOLUTION TRANSFORMING ACNE AND PROBLEMATIC SKIN Phyt’s Laboratories have released a breakthrough formulation that stops acne on its tracks. Consisting of powerfully antibacterial, healing and skin-balancing 100% natural and certified organic herbs and essential oils validated for their crucial role in the successful management of acne-prone and oily skin types.

AROMACLEAR is a complete clinical treatment you can trust to deliver results for clearing problematic skin, improving tone and elasticity, refining the appearance of enlarge pores and calming and restoring skin balance. When results are important to you and your clients, you can be assured that AROMACLEAR will deliver.

PHYT’S AUSTRALIA 1300 656 627 info@phyts.com.au www.phyts.com.au

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STUDY INNOVATIVE TECHNOLOGIES IN DERMAL AESTHETICS BACHELOR OF HEALTH SCIENCE (Aesthetics)

Learn a diverse range of dermal treatments, and practice in real clinics using the latest state of the art equipment.

APPLY NOW torrens.edu.au/beauty-courses Torrens University Australia courses are delivered by Torrens University Australia Ltd, APJ 60 ABN 99 154 937 005, RTO 41343, CRICOS 03389E.

LOVE W HAT YOU DO


HIGHEREDUCATION

RAISING STANDARDS IN BEAUTY AND DERMAL THERAPIES

THROUGH INDUSTRY AND EDUCATION PARTNERSHIPS THERE IS AN urgent need in our industry for employers and education providers to take mutual responsibility for supporting students to graduate career-ready. Together, we must drive for better standards and increase graduate skills and employability. For business owners, this means developing closer relationships with local education providers and creating partnerships that include workplace opportunities. In Australia, we need to rise to the challenge and keep up with global trends, in order to increase standards within our industry. “Lifelong learning” is now an integral part of our personal and professional development. For most practitioners, the starting point is a tertiary qualification as a Beauty Therapist or Dermal Therapist. This is a common pathway for school leavers, and adult learners looking for a career change or to up-skill to increase their employability. It’s not uncommon to hear industry complain about the standards of graduating students. We need graduates who can hit the ground running. Education providers driving positive change In response to industry demands for higher standards, education providers have introduced compulsory industry work placements for most practical units. For students, such partnerships increase career opportunities, help students develop high standards, set realistic expectations, build confidence, and cultivate good work ethics, preparing them for long-term career success.

What type of education partnership would suit you? •

Consultative partnerships: sharing industry input around change or ideas for policies

Contributory partnerships: benefitting an organisation or the industry community

Operational partnerships: work-sharing arrangements in which the components of a given task are delegated to specific industry parties

Collaborative partnerships: sharing resources, risks and decision-making

For employers, educational partnerships help to increase the skills set of future staff. They are an opportunity to enhance soft skills, set industry standards and manage the risk of a skills shortage. The power of collaboration Students are excited about the prospect of work placements in an industry they are heavily invested in. However, their requests are too often rejected. Some students report emailing more than 30 resumes and cover letters to local and national businesses, only to receive poor responses from our industry leaders. This can demoralise students, shatter their confidence and even cause them to fail subjects. Torrens delivers industry-ready graduates Torrens University Australia is at the forefront of industry partnerships to provide the best educational and career APJ 61


outcomes for their students. In turn, they deliver businesses high-calibre graduates who are ready, experienced and expertly equipped to work at the innovative edge of the industry. Breanna Woodman, a dermal therapist and student at Torrens, gains confidence from having her coursework closely aligned with real-world industry requirements. “I’ve learned so much already that I can put into practise while I’m at work,” she says. Amanda Malden-Browne, Senior Learning Facilitator at Torrens, has more than 30 years’ experience in the global Aesthetics industry. “Industry collaboration is the only way to ensure industry standards, graduate employability and a strong competitor presence in the global industry” says Amanda. Here’s what industry can do: •

Contact your local education provider and set up a meeting

Be part of the Course Advisory committee and participate in forums to provide industry feedback

Invite training providers to your business

Discuss opportunities you can offer students and student placements

Participate in educational events, such as guest speaking at open days

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There’s never been a more important time to work together If there is a lack of support from business at the education level, it can affect the entire Aesthetics industry, and with the recent reduction in training providers, fewer graduating therapists could lead to a skills shortage. That’s what makes Torrens University’s approach so essential. “Torrens University is meeting industry demands through its collaboration with industry, up-to-date learning platform, highly skilled lecturers, excellent course content and state-of-theart equipment that provides students with a solid foundation for meeting industry requirements, both nationally and internationally,”says Amanda. As Breanna says, “With the industry I’m in, the best advice that I’ve received was ‘you never stop learning’.” APJ Torrens University is one of Australia’s most dynamic universities. We have careers-focused and global perspective to higher education. We are committed to delivering the most relevant education, and the highest calibre of graduates to industry. We offer Bachelor of Health Science (Aesthetics) and Diploma of Beauty and Spa Practice: www.torrens.edu.au/beauty-courses We are looking for industry business partnerships. Please get in touch with our team in Brisbane on 1300 575 803 or visit www.torrens.edu.au.


EDUCATION

A FUNCTIONAL APPROACH TO SKIN HEALTH

Bridging the gap between gut-health and the skin

While our skin is the largest organ of our body there are many factors that influence its health, appearance and wellbeing. Recent research suggests that our digestive health, absorption and utilisation of nutrients is the pivotal point that affects our skin through the brain and gut-skin connection. The Professional Certificate in Integrated Health and Dermatology forms the foundation for understanding skin disorders from a systemic perspective, impact of gut health with an emphasis on nutritional and lifestyle factors or choices that may affect these disorders. This course will enable you to learn

about the gut microbiome, what it is, and how it influences a multitude of skin conditions such as acne, rosacea, accelerated ageing as well as mood, weight gain, weight loss and overall health. By understanding the relationship between the microbiome and dermatology, you can successfully use these principles to improve patient outcomes and create a unique selling point to patients. This course will include multiple resources such as patient information sheets, questionnaires and video resources that you can use in a clinical setting. Why choose to study the Professional Certificate in Integrated Health and Dermatology? •

This course is designed to demystify the gut/skin connection and give you easy principles within your scope of practice that you can implement to improve your patients’ outcomes.

Explain to your patients the importance of hormonal imbalance, diet and lifestyle factors that can affect the skin.

Comprehensively analyse a patient’s nutritional, lifestyle and toxin exposures and identify areas that require intervention

Offer your patients a holistic program creating a point of difference from other clinics.

Enjoy the satisfaction of happy patients, easy to apply principles and an increase in income from your unique approach.

Professional Certificate in Integrated Health and Dermatology (IHD01) COURSE HIGHLIGHTS

• • •

DELIVERY MODE: Online COURSE FEES: $1995 + GST No pre-requisites

STUDY LOANS

Approved Course

Launching their latest certificate, which aims to assist clinicians in acheiving holistic results for their patients.

RTO 51373

AS A CLINICIAN, do you struggle with achieving results for your clients or patients despite providing the right treatments and skincare? Are you aware of the “microbiome”, “gut dysbiosis” and “detoxification pathways”?

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For more information, please email enquiries@aacds.edu.au or visit aacds.edu.au


APJ 64


PERSONALDEVELOPMENT

Undefeated By Tina Viney IN OUR EDITOR’s report Katherine McCann so poignantly articulated the struggles of many working individuals who are trying to juggle the responsibilities of their professional and business life, while also being real and present with their loved ones in their private life.

thrust into extraordinarily challenging circumstances prove that disasters can be overcome - and can even make one stronger. Resilience is that ineffable quality that allows some people to be knocked down by life and come back stronger than ever. Rather than letting failure overcome them and drain their resolve, they find a way to rise from the ashes.

When we are trained in our profession, we are strategically given knowledge and instruction on the intricacies of the profession we will enter. However, what we often are not Psychologists have identified some of the factors that make given, is knowledge and skills on how to survive in the real someone resilient, among them world. How, will we face and a positive attitude, optimism, the deal with hardships? How do we Resilience is that ineffable quality that ability to regulate emotions, as deal with injustice when it hits allows some people to be knocked down well as the ability to see failure us? as a form of helpful feedback. by life and come back stronger than ever. Even after misfortune, resilient In facing life, do you attribute Rather than letting failure overcome them people are blessed with such personal and professional setbacks as a result of your own and drain their resolve, they find a way to an outlook that they are able to change course and soldier on. inadequacy, or can you chalk rise from the ashes. them up to factors that are What I like the most about specific and temporary? Do you embracing resilience as a anticipate that life will give you personal attribute is that it allows me to look at failure as a perfect streak of constant wins, or can you accept a mix of just an event and not a fixed position. This is a powerful losses and wins? realisation because it can help one escape the negative stigma that can make overcoming so much more painful and If we were to consider just one word that will describe what difficult. will allow us to bounce back and survive from setbacks it would have to be the word RESILIENCE. Let’s get one thing straight - there is no doubt that everyone is resilient to some degree, however, no one is perfectly Resilience is the ability to cope with unexpected changes and resilient, or resilient in all circumstances. Resilience does not challenges in your life. It’s not always possible to prevent mean invulnerability, because anyone can be overwhelmed stressful, or adverse situations, but you can strengthen your when circumstances are severe enough. Rather, resilience is capacity to deal with these challenges. about generally working, playing, loving, and expecting the best of life. It’s about functioning at our best possible level in I recently completed a study on the meaning of resilience any given situation. and it gave me some wonderful keys on how I can be strengthened through the ability to better master my own I once heard a football coach state some wise words to life. In studying resilience, I gained a better understanding on his team. He said, “success is doing your personal best; how I can use this attribute to my advantage, so let me share sometimes the other team will simply be better on a given with you some interesting insight on this subject. Hopefully, day”. you will also gain a few valuable tips to strengthen your own resilience and allow it to support your survival and help you Resilience can vary from one individual to another depending achieve your victories. on many internal and external factors, such as how rested and nourished one is, one’s training and experience, or the WHAT IS RESILIENCE nature of the situation. The key is not to be hard on yourself when you feel you have failed at something, but to focus on While resilience is about coping, it is also more than that. It getting up again. about the ability to get through pain and disappointment without letting them crush your spirit, and research continues to uncover what resilient people do as they persist after missteps, accidents, and trauma. Stories of ordinary people

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STRATEGIES FOR BUILDING RESILIENCE So how do you develop resilience? There is a combination of factors that can contribute to resilience, but at the core of all of them is the importance of taking control of our thoughts and consistently anchoring them to positive outcomes of moving forward. In other words, maintaining a positive attitude. Resilience, is an attribute that can be cultivated and developed. It is a personal, yet very important attribute that can help us not just survive, but also gain fortitude to achieve our goals and even excel at them. Developing resilience is a personal journey. People do not all react the same to traumatic and stressful life events. An approach to building resilience that works for one person

Resilience can vary from one individual to another depending on many internal and external factors, such as how rested and nourished one is, one’s training and experience, or the nature of the situation. The key is not to be hard on yourself when you feel you have failed at something, but to focus on getting up again.

Review your achievements: Life is constantly on the move. Each day you achieve tasks that move you forward. Review those achievements and take courage that you are making progress.

Take decisive actions: Act on adverse situations as much as you can. Take decisive actions, rather than detaching completely from problems and stresses and wishing they would just go away. If you feel overwhelmed, speak to someone you respect that will allow you to review your options. Reach out to your industry association, this is why you have joined them to offer you objective and professional support when needed. If you are an member of APAN you can always access an expert to bounce ideas or gain an objective opinion – use that support.

Look for opportunities for self-discovery: People often learn something about themselves and may find that they have grown in some respect as a result of their struggle with loss or challenges. Many people who have experienced tragedies and hardship have reported better relationships, greater sense of strength, even while feeling vulnerable, increased sense of self-worth, a more developed spirituality and heightened appreciation for life and the importance quality people in their life.

Nurture a positive view of yourself: Developing confidence in your ability to solve problems and trusting your instincts helps build resilience. Appreciate your experience in life and your achievements and trust that you have the fortitude to overcome challenges. View challenges as temporary.

Keep things in perspective: Even when facing very painful events, try to consider the stressful situation in a broader context and keep a long-term perspective. Avoid blowing the event out of proportion.

Maintain a hopeful outlook: An optimistic outlook enables you to expect that good things will happen in your life. Try visualising what you want, rather than worrying about what you fear.

Take care of yourself” Pay attention to your own needs and feelings. Engage in activities that you enjoy and find relaxing. Exercise regularly. Taking care of yourself helps to keep your mind and body primed to deal with situations that require resilience.

Additional ways of strengthening resilience may be helpful: For example, some people write about their deepest thoughts and feelings related to trauma or other stressful events in their life. Meditation and spiritual practices help some people build connections and restore hope. Learn from your past, stay flexible by trying new ways and be committed to stay on your journey and not quit. The key is to identify ways that may work better for you.

might not work for another. People use varying strategies. However here are a few simple strategies to help you build resilience: •

Make connections: As we have mentioned earlier, the core of resilience is to maintain a positive attitude. They say what you feed off is what you become, so try to surround yourself with positive people. Nurturing good relationships with close family members, friends, or others is important. Accepting help and support from those who care about you and who listen to you, this support will strengthen resilience in you. Some people find that being active in civic groups, faith-based organisations, or other local groups provides social support and can help with reclaiming hope, because without hope life is not worth living. Assisting and encouraging others in their time of need, can also rub off on the helper. Avoid seeing crises as insurmountable problems: You can't change the fact that highly stressful events happen, but you can change how you interpret and respond to these events. Try looking beyond the present to how future circumstances may be a little better. Step back and try to gain the objective perspective. All problems have solutions, so try not to stay locked into the disappointment. Accept that change is a part of living: Certain goals may no longer be attainable as a result of adverse situations. Accepting circumstances that cannot be changed can help you focus on circumstances that you can alter. Move toward your goals: Develop some realistic goals. Do something regularly — even if it seems a small accomplishment that enables you to move toward your goals. Instead of focusing on tasks that seem unachievable, ask yourself, "What's one thing I know I can accomplish today that helps me move in the direction I want to go?"

• APJ 66

CONCLUSION Resilience is a wonderful attribute, however, it’s a process like walking up a staircase. You might be on step four of the staircase, and I might be on step one, but we can both keep moving up the staircase so that our resilience levels will hopefully exceed the rising tide of stress. You can enlarge your capacity for resilience by practicing resilience skills, strengthening your resolve to always rise above your challenges and foster a life you deserve. As we build resilience, health and your quality of life will typically improve. You will become undeafited. APJ


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MEMBERPROFILE

CHI PARAMEDICAL AESTHETICS Breaking past limitations

WENDII ELINGHAM is a dynamic and committed professional, the Managing Director of CHI Paramedical Aesthetics and the owner of Chi Rejuvenation Clinic – a highly successful clinic located in Coffs Harbour, NSW. Passionate about her own personal and professional development Wendii is constantly investing in her education, while seeking ways to innovate and evolve her brand to maintain its competitive advantage. One of the hallmarks that define Wendii is the amazing way that she overcomes challenges and instils joy and excitement in her professional journey. She is truly

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an inspiration and a wonderful role model of a successful entrepreneur who is making her mark in the industry. In this interview Wendii shares with us some of her achievements and the exciting new project that includes the launch of her own skincare, the rebranding of her business and the opportunity for other practitioners to join her and benefit from her licenced business model. APJ Q1: Wendii what is your professional background and what do you consider to be the area you are most experienced in? I have 25 years of industry experience and was originally, CIDESCO and BABTAC trained in Adelaide, South Australia. Since then I have owned three clinics and have won two Awards in both South Australia and NSW.  I am continuously furthering my knowledge and have recently finished a fantastic Nutrition for Skin Health course with Chiza Westcarr. However, my drive for learning continues and I am currently studying Dermal Therapies. My passion is skin improvement and I love working with my clients to give them the skin results they want.  APJ Q2:  We believe you have developed your own skincare line, how did that come about and what is unique about this range? About eight years ago I attended a skin needling course with Dr Lance Settlerfield. Learning to work within the deeper layers of the skin I realised that I was not satisfied with the

skincare products that I was stocking at the time in my clinic. I felt I needed products that were more appropriate to be used post CIT treatment. This is when I started to research possibilities of developing serums that I could confidently use with natural preservatives and no detrimental ingredients when used with collagen induction therapy procedures. Our wholesale company Chi Aesthetics started with a few serums then grew from there. Now there are 30 products in our Chi range. We are currently revamping and reformulating our products and Chi is now available through selected salons throughout Australia. Our company also offers one-on-one Cosmetic Tattoo training courses once a month with our own machines, inks and consumables. APJ Q3: Tell us about your plans to licence Chi Aesthetics and what business model do you envisage for its promotion? After moving from Adelaide to Coffs Harbour my husband, a property developer as well as an entrepreneur like myself, saw the potential in a commercial property in the CBD. I was also itching to start up another clinic as there was a definite hole in the market in Coffs for a high-end skin rejuvenation clinic offering services that most locals were travelling to Sydney or Brisbane for. We are very proud to have won the local business awards for Start-Up Super Star and even more excited when we were

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a runner-up for the NSW Chamber of Commerce regional wards this year.

our Chi skincare line for boutique salons or clinics who want to stand out from the crowd.

Our vision is to licence our clinic model to four regional areas around Australia for savvy business owners who want to gain the benefit of the support, structure, mentorship, training and a successful business plan provided to them, but still have scope to add their own personality to their clinic - something that cannot be done with a franchise.

APJ Q5: What are your thoughts about the current changes in the industry - what advances are you excited about and what areas concern you?

APJ Q4: What are you truly passionate about and what other services do you provide? My passion is in treating the skin and educating clients about ingredients, products, lifestyle and ultimately, fixing their skin issues. Due to the high demand of Cosmetic Tattooing and training my focus turned from the skincare to Cosmetic Tattoo, but I now feel that I can return my attention back to reformulating APJ 70

The advances in equipment are amazing and they truly excite me. I keep wondering “what new developments are coming out next?” The advances are never-ending. In saying that I also giggle with the various cycles of our industry. Here is an example of what I mean – 20 years ago I trained with Softap and while its appeal was limited, today a new evolution of these techniques in the form of “powder brow” and “ombre brow” are all the rage. Imagine, I was performing those services in my first clinic in Adelaide all those years ago and once again, they are back in vogue. 25 years ago, I was also trained in electrolysis and I have to say this service still is the highest demand service I do and


Our vision is to licence our clinic model to four regional areas around Australia for savvy business owners who want to gain the benefit of the support, structure, mentorship, training and a successful business plan provided to them, but still have scope to add their own personality to their clinic - something that cannot be done with a franchise.

always has been. This is because despite all the advances in technology, no other hair removal method works quite like electrolysis. When it comes to concerns, my main concern today is the emergence of so-called business ‘gurus’ who are cheapening our industry by mentoring vulnerable and desperate salon owners to offer $27 facials for a quick cash sale. My challenge with this mindset is, why offer six 30-minute facials at $27 each to bargain-hunters when you can do three one-hour facials for $100 each? Not only will you make more money, but you will also gain a truly happy client who will return to you and who is willing to purchase $300 worth of quality skincare because you have taken the time to recommend what is right for them based on a thorough diagnosis of their skin. I still believe that quality service and meeting your client’s needs is what drives business growth, not cheap discounted services. These tactics remind me when Scoopon and Cudo offers hit

our industry 10 or so years ago and I saw so many salons go out of business because $25 facials will not support wages, GST, products, overheads etc. We really don’t need to go there again in order to get people in our doors. APJ Q6: Share with us your plans for expansion and who could benefit by connecting with you? I am truly excited about our skincare rebranding which we will undertake over the next 6-12 months. We are in the infancy stages of the licencing concept at the moment and we are using our clinic in Coffs Harbour as our prototype and launchpad for possible expansion in the next two years. We would love to share our products and protocols and help others experience the same level of success. APJ If you would like to contact Wendii Ellingham you can reach her at Chi Paramedical Aesthetics 1300 033 244| E: wendii@chiaustralia.com

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LEGALMATTERS

WARNING: REVIEW OF CASUAL EMPLOYMENT ARRANGEMENTS When is a casual worker not considered a casual worker by the law? Article submitted by Pointon Partner Lawyers Authors: Amelita Hensman, Ben Drysdale, Michael Bishop TERMS AND CONDITIONS of employment may vary depending on the business’s needs and often salons and clinics will opt for a casual rate for the purpose of simplicity. While the hourly rate for casual is higher, it forfeits their obligation for holiday pay, sick leave etc. Meanwhile, as the business grows and the hours of employment are increased, this may result to specific shifts and changes of allocated times of employment. These changes in the configuration of your working hours may be viewed differently by the law. For this reason, it is important to constantly review the status of casual workers and even contractors to ensure you are operating within legal employment classifications, especially if the terms and hours required to work with you have changed. Pointon Partner Lawyers is APAN’s preferred legal provider. The firm provides us with regular support and advice when interpreting wage rates and employment conditions with our members. Their friendly and efficient services have assisted many of our members to secure peace-of-mind with wage and salary concerns as well as with other business contracts.

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The article below outlines a court-case that ruled in favour of a long-term casual employee regarding changes to their legal employment status and their entitlements. Employers are warned to review their working arrangements with long term casuals following the recent decision of the Full Federal Court in WorkPac Pty Ltd v Skene [2018] FCAFC 131. That case resulted in an employee, who had been engaged and paid as a casual employee, bringing a successful claim against his former employer for accrued annual leave upon the termination of employment. This was notwithstanding that the employee was paid a casual rate which, as is the case with all casual employees, was intended to compensate them for not accruing leave in the way that permanent employees do. The employee in question was working at a coal mine in Queensland and had been allocated a roster set twelve months in advance. The focus of the Court in determining whether the employee was a casual employee as a matter of law was the ongoing regularity and certainty of the work to be performed by the employee rather than the label given to the type of employment. In the words of the Court: “The payment by the employer and the acceptance by the employee of a casual loading like the description of the type of employment given by the parties in their contractual documentation speaks to the intent of the parties to create and continue casual employment.


But the objective assessment will need to consider whether that intent has been put into practice and if achieved has been maintained. The objectively demonstrated existence of a firm advance commitment to continuing and indefinite work (subject to rights of termination) according to an agreed pattern of work will ordinarily demonstrate a contrary intent and the existence of ongoing full-time or part-time employment rather than casual employment. The key indicators of an absence of the requisite firm advance commitment will be irregularity, uncertainty, unpredictability, intermittency and discontinuity in the pattern of work of the employee in question.” This decision creates considerable risk and uncertainty for employers who have long-term casual employees with regular shifts. The employer cannot necessarily rely upon the fact that the employee may have been categorised and paid as a casual. As a result of this decision there may be some risk that such an employee could bring a claim for annual leave upon the termination of employment. APJ If you would like your particular casual employment arrangements reviewed, feel free to contact Michael Bishop, Amelita Hensman or Ben Drysdale for advice 03 9614 7707.

POINTON PARTNER LAWYERS Pointon Partners offers the expertise and experience of a top tier law firm, coupled with the personal service and attention that can only be offered by an expert, smaller firm. Our lawyers are technically excellent in their areas of expertise, but more importantly for our clients, they are genuinely concerned with the application of the law in the ‘real world’ to achieve results. We are outcome-focused and commercially-minded, helping clients achieve their goals or solve their problems in the most effective and efficient manner is our key objective. “More than a law firm, we’re your legal partner. An extension of your team. Your success is our success. That’s what drives us to be the best.” Services include: •

Employment Law

Commercial

Corporate

Taxation

Litigation

Intellectual Properties

Property

Wills and Estates

Restructuring and Insolvency

For legal advice and services Ph: 03 9614 7707 or email Michael Bishop mjb@pointonpartners.com.au APJ 73


ADVERTORIAL

I believe that A Plus Ocean Tattoo Removal practitioners can provide safe and effective treatments. It is also a rewarding experience seeing their work transform people’s lives and regain their self-confidence.

EXPANDING YOUR TREATMENT PERIMETERS

A PLUS OCEAN TATTOO REMOVAL SYSTEM THE LATEST STATISTICS confirm that 22% of Australian men and 29% of women aged 20 to 29 have at least one tattoo, while 34% of Australians who have a tattoo regret getting it, and one in seven of this group consider removal. There is no doubt that tattoo removal is an ever-growing industry and there are two methods of tattoo removal – either laser, or through various topical acidic solutions. While laser will blast the pigments and remove them through the circulatory system, topical solutions target the pigments and draw them to the surface to expel them externally. Both methods carry a level of risk however, the popularity of topical solutions for tattoo removal is gaining momentum as the preferred method. The reason for this is because many old tattoos consist of heavy metals, often of dubious nature with some even considered carcinogenic, therefore expelling them externally is considered the safer option rather than blasting them to travel through the body. Carol Dinis is a passionate therapist and cosmetic tattooist who loves improving her clients’ self-esteem and confidence

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through the services she provides. Recently Carol and her partner Richard gained the acquisition of a world-renowned tattoo removal system with a unique formulation. Here Carol shares with us her story and how A Plus Ocean Tattoo Removal is changing lives. APJ 1: Carol tell us a little about your professional background and what is your current passion?  I have been in the beauty industry for over 20 years, I was always seeing ladies who were really upset about the way their eyebrows looked so I looked into cosmetic tattooing. I trained and started tattooing about 15 years ago and just loved the difference it was making to my clients’ confidence and outlook on life. As time progressed, I looked for the best training I could find world-wide to expand my knowledge and expertise. Today I not only do cosmetic tattooing, I also specialise in medical tattooing, such as nipple areola regimentation and scar camouflage, tattoo removal and correction. I am a certified trainer in Cosmetic Tattooing and also a certified trainer for A Plus Ocean Tattoo Removal


– an innovative tattoo removal system, for which we have the national distribution. Making women feel good about themselves is what I am passionate about, whether it is as simple as enhanced their eyebrows, or as deep as restoring confidence with ladies going through their cancer journey. APJ 2: What motivated you to take on the A Plus Ocean Tattoo Removal method and what is different about this product and method? Initially, I started using an acid-based tattoo removal method, but was quickly disappointed when I wasn’t getting the results I was hoping for and many of the clients were suffering from scarring. About four years ago, I was in Florida doing some tattoo training with master Tattoo Artist John Hashey and he introduced me to his product A Plus Ocean Tattoo Removal. This product and method have revolutionised tattoo removal and tattoo lightening.  The product and system were developed by Mr Hashey in 1980 and perfected over the years. His product is not like anything I have ever used before. Quite simply, it is a Saline/Aloe Vera solution. It uses the finest natural sea salt that has been highly refined to draw the ink pigments from the cells through osmosis and a hypertonic action that pushes and releases the pigment particles to the surface. The Aloe Vera is used for its natural healing properties. The solution is applied over the existing tattoo and it draws the pigment to the surface of the skin where it scabs and the pigment falls away. Being a saline/aloe solution, it is much gentler on the skin, so scarring becomes less of an issue when the pigment is surfaced, but clients do need to be very careful and follow the after-care instructions. However, the magic of this procedure

is its unique method of pigment removal. It requires a very precise mapping of the area that is designed to minimise damage to the skin and allows for better healing. The precise needle selection, the depth of application and the oval movement pattern, all contribute to less trauma to the skin, ending in the best possible result. APJ 3: Do you need to be a cosmetic tattooist to undertake this procedure? Being a cosmetic, or a body tattooist is a distinct advantage as having experience with a PMU Machine - whether it be a coil, rotary or digital device is a definite advantage. Having knowledge of tattoo pigments and the skin is a great start, as these skills are essential in giving you a better understanding of just what is going on. Knowledge is key, and the more experience you have the easier you will pick up the method. A novice can take on the system, but more intense training would be required. APJ 4: How thorough is the training with A Plus Ocean Tattoo Removal? After trialling different methods and solutions available on the market, I was settled on the A Plus Ocean Tattoo Removal System as my best option. I travelled to Tampa Florida to complete my training with John Hashey.  This was an experience of a lifetime.  The education and handson training I received were very thorough and delivered incredible knowledge. There is so much to learn, from how to address various Fitzpatrick skin types, as well as skin health considerations, the age of the tattoo and its implication, as well as how to address various type of pigments. Each aspect required specialised training to ensure the safety process during the removal of the tattoo.

Introducing the World’s First Hypertonic, Saline Tattoo Removal Solution NOW AVAILABLE IN AUSTRALIA NATURALLY REMOVES OR LIGHTENS COSMETIC AND CONVENTIONAL TATTOOS.

CAROL DINIS Distributor and Trainer

www.aplusoceanaustralasia.com.au aplusoceanaustralasia@gmail.com APJ 75 0448 623 267


from the Before and After photos here the colour technique was that of an amateur. She cried when she got home. Barbara had been following Mr John Hashey’s work on tattoo removal on social media and she was eventually referred to me.  Barbara booked in for a consultation with me and shared her painful story that left me in tears and it stirred within me a fierce determination to help this precious woman regain some dignity.

BEFORE

AFTER

Following my initial training, I travelled back in June this year to update my skills and gain knowledge on the latest developments and techniques with A Plus Ocean.   I worked on so many cases including: •

Eyeliner removal (pigment migration), which is so common

Eyebrow colour correction and removal

Camouflage pigment removal

Body Tattoo removal

For me this was a real game-changer going forward into the future, as tattoo removal is in high-demand and such a growing industry. I am very passionate about my own commitment to education. This allows me to offer comprehensive and thorough training to anyone undertaking the A Plus Ocean Tattoo Removal method, as well as offer them on-going support for more difficult cases. I believe that A Plus Ocean Tattoo Removal practitioners can provide safe and effective treatments. For the practitioner, it is also a rewarding experience seeing their work transform people’s lives who are able to regain their self-confidence through the results of these services. APJ 5: Can you give us an example of the kind of impact that an A Plus Ocean tattoo removal treatment can deliver in transforming someone’s life? With these services there are numerous moving stories that a practitioner would experience by providing this procedure. However, I would like to share one heart-felt story of a recent treatment I delivered that was able to change a wonderful lady’s life and restore her confidence. Barbara is a 70-year old client who was suffering with breast cancer.  She had a double mastectomy performed, but it didn’t stop there, there was a need for further surgery in order to correct the procedure. The result left Barbara with uneven breasts and severe scarring.   As you can imagine something so traumatic challenged both her wellbeing and her mental and emotional state. Additionally, her husband of 40 years decided to ask her for a divorce, stating to her “you don’t do anything for me anymore.” Meanwhile, Barbara was also, a fulltime-carer of her disabled son, so for his sake, she had to keep going. Following her double mastectomy Barbara just wanted to look slightly normal again and booked in for an areola repigmentation with an inexperienced cosmetic tattoo operator. The results were not at all what she expected. As you can see

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And so, we began our journey under Mr Hashey’s instruction to lighten and remove the sections of bad colour work. The After photos here show Barbara post-four session over a fourmonth period. We are convinced we will achieve an excellent outcome and I have offered Barbara a free nipple areola re-pigmentation treatment after the removal is complete. Having this support and service has given Barbara great relieve and she feels more positive in getting on with her life. APJ 5:  How can a business introduce A Plus Ocean and help them grow their business? Introducing this service to your business will allow you to access new clients and improve your current financial status, as the demand for these services is constantly growing. While the demand for tattoo removal is showing no signs of slowing down, another area that is fast becoming a concern is the need for pigment removal due to poor microblading training. Unfortunately, at the moment it is too easy for just anyone to pick up a blade and start microblading eyebrows with very little training, and this is resulting in some very bad eyebrow tattoos being done and the subsequent demand for eyebrow colour correction. A Plus Ocean is very cost effective allowing you to deliver 10 – 15 treatments from one $60 bottle of the removal solution. One of these removal treatments is usually priced at $100 per treatment and above. If the technician is already using a good quality, high-powered rotary, or coil tattoo machine there may be no additional equipment purchase necessary. Having said that, the better the equipment used, the better the end result. PMU artists generally use smaller needle configurations. When performing tattoo removal, or lightening with A Plus Ocean Hypertonic solution we recommend a higher needle configuration, for example 14 round-shader, or a 25 roundshader. This is to minimise damage to skin tissue. Scarring is a risk with any removal procedure and this is why thorough training is needed to enable you to address pigment removal with greater confidence. Our training is thorough and will leave you confident to move into this specialised area. For laser technicians A Plus Ocean will give you the edge as some colours such as greens and reds can’t easily be removed with laser, but with A Plus Ocean you will be able to lift and lighten these stubborn areas. APJ If you are interested in introducing an effective tattoo removal system in your business, contact Carol Dinis and learn more about how A Plus Ocean Tattoo Removal can help your business grow by adding a highly effective tattoo removal treatment to your service menu. Full training provided. 0448 623 267 or aplusoceanaustralasia@gmail.com www.aplusoceanaustralasia.com.au Australia | New Zealand |Southeast Asia


GAIN NATIONAL RECOGNITION FOR YOUR COSMETIC TATTOO QUALIFICATION Paving the way for national standards-recognition for qualified Cosmetic Tattooists APAN has established CTARP - a national registration process that allows qualified Cosmetic Tattoo practitioners to gain national recognition, differentiating them from unqualified technicians. CTARP REGISTRATION CTARP - Cosmetic Tattoo APAN Registered Practitioner is Australia’s leading recognition symbol for best practice in Cosmetic Tattooing. CTARP PREREQUISITE REQUIREMENTS • Must provide evidence of a nationallyapproved qualification • Must provide evidence of SHBBINF001 Maintain Infection Control.

Be recognised as the best For further details visit apanetwork.com/ctarp

07 5593 0360| info@apanetwork.com| www.apanetwork.com

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SOCIALMEDIA

SOCIAL MEDIA AND FINDING THE SECRET SAUCE By Trish Hammond - Plastic Surgery Hub

SOCIAL MEDIA - it’s everywhere. In the past few years it’s become essential to any business if you want to grow and hold your own in a world where consumers are spoilt for choice. Whether you like it or not, if you have a business, you need to become social-media-savvy. But there is one thing that’s more important than anything else when it comes to being successful with social media marketing and advertising and it’s not what you might think. While many businesses, or personalities might be lucky enough to have that one post that goes viral and makes them or their business a household name, most of us have to work at it for a little, or a long while longer. The first thing you need to do is to identify your audience. Are you trying to attract Millenials? Baby Boomers? This will allow you to better design your branding and posts to speak in a language that will be understood, attractive and interesting to that audience. Then, you need to employ the social media secret sauce’s main ingredient - consistency. CONSISTENCY Consistency is absolutely essential for any social media success. The first thing to do to become consistent is create your branding. Having a logo, catchphrase, brand colours and your username that you’re going to consistently be using as the image that you’re projecting to the world is APJ 78

really important - perhaps THE most important thing. Have the same branding on all your social media and other platforms so people recognise it when they see it. Creating a recognisable brand is what it’s all about. McDonalds do this better than almost any other business on the planet - their big M… the red and yellow… Everyone links a big yellow M back to McDonalds, whether it’s a McDonalds big M or not. Giving people time to become familiar with that branding is important too. People want to know you’re a reliable, professional business and seeing your logo, business name or catchphrase keep popping up will create a feeling of familiarity and comfort for those following and potential followers. Social media can work quickly in some cases, but in most cases it’s over time that your branding becomes recognised and remembered. DO NOT BUY FOLLOWERS! We’ve seen this done time and time again, where a business ‘pops up’ and you check out their social media following and WOW, they have 70,000 followers and getting heaps of likes! Move forward 6-12 months and those followers have reduced to 57,900 followers and they’re getting five likes on a photo… mmm… that’s not a business you can trust. It’s not authentic, and that business has not created an audience that is loving what they do. So, don’t buy followers, we want engagement


because the content that is being posted is valued by your customers. BACK TO CONSISTENCY – CONSISTENT CONTENT Be clear about what you want to share on social media. Do you want to share your products for sale, services, real stories, reviews? Perhaps you showcase a product or a service once a day? Maybe once a week you post a client story that will resonate with someone else wanting that particular product or service? Perhaps once a week you provide some useful information about your product, service, business or industry that you think your followers might find interesting. Maybe a regular “Quote of the Week or Month”? Come up with a plan and stick to it - be consistent with a regular routine for posting so you become like a familiar friend to your followers. Don’t keep your content completely serious all the time. You may want to have a Friday Fun Day where you post light-hearted content like as a joke, something to make your followers crack a smile? You want your followers to look forward to your posts and encourage new followers to want to follow you. The most popular posts on social media are those that evoke emotion in the audience - make them laugh, cry, relate to the post. These are also the most shared posts.

People also like colourful, aesthetically-appealing posts. Or, if it’s appropriate, shocking posts that make people stop (keep in mind that if it’s too shocking you may lose readers too). Either way, you’re engaging them to take an interest in, and invest in, what you’re posting. REGULAR POSTING You want to find a balance between posting enough and not posting too much. No one likes their feeds to be overwhelmed by one business. But the opposite is also true - liking a business that has barely any activity will also probably turn people off and make them think it’s a waste of time and be easily forgotten and you’ll probably not get many, if any, new followers. Finding that sweet spot and being consistent with your posting will allow you to become a part of your followers’ lives. It is also more likely to lead them to sharing the posts they like with their friends and so on. Usually, posting once a day across all your social media platforms is a good start but once you start getting more followers, you may increase that to more, if you like. Regardless of what it is, be consistent. APJ IF YOU WISH TO FINE-TUNE YOUR SOCIAL MEDIA SKILL APAN WILL BE CONDUCTING SOCIAL MEDIA WORKSHOPS WITH TRISH HAMMOND. CONTACT APAN E: info@ apanetwork.com or Ph: 07 55930 360 for further details.

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ADVERTORIAL

SPECTRUM SCIENCE & BEAUTY

Winners of the Prestigious APAC BUSINESS AWARD BEST LASER AESTHETIC DEVICE DESIGNER & SUPPLIER – AUSTRALIA THE AESTHETIC AND BEAUTY INDUSTRY is expanding at an exponential rate and Spectrum Science & Beauty is leading the way in Australia. They have just been awarded Best Laser Aesthetic Device Designer & Supplier - Australia at the 2018 APAC Business Awards held by APAC Insider! These awards celebrate the best across the Asia Pacific region, which is becoming one of the largest and most influential business regions in the world. For these prestigious awards APAC Insider’s in-house research team scrutinise everything from a nominee’s sector to their annual performance, their commitment to innovation, methodology and competition to ensure that only the most deserving names claim one of the titles. Spectrum is a proud Australian business and under CEO Ben Skeggs’ leadership has grown to become a premier designer, developer and supplier of beauty equipment, aesthetic equipment, professional skincare products, payment solutions and business growth training for beauty businesses. Spectrum has a big vision to empower their clients with the skills, knowledge and technology to improve and change their clients’ lives, while growing their businesses faster and more efficiently. This is part of Spectrum’s philosophy of providing all-inclusive support. “Our team of sales people, technicians, trainers, clinicians and marketing experts are available to provide excellent support APJ 80

and service to help our clients run successful and profitable businesses.,” Skeggs says. Over the past 12 months Spectrum have invested and built new infrastructure – the Spectrum Success Academy. The Academy offers free and exclusive business training to their equipment clients to help support them in growing their businesses more efficiently. “Our motto is, Your Success Is Our Success, and the Spectrum Success Academy was born to empower our clients to build businesses and a life they love with access to business strategies and tools that they can access and implement into their business and achieve real results”, Ben confirmed. “Spectrum has performed well despite the economic conditions. If you look at history, people are continually seeking ways to look younger and feel better, and the beauty industry is constantly adapting to keep up with modern perceptions of wellbeing and beauty," says Skeggs. "This creates great opportunity for businesses that are willing to research and listen to their clients’ needs, then innovate and step up what they are offering, based on the latest trends in the market to meet those needs. “As equipment become more effective in delivering better anti-ageing results, we see opportunities for clinics to offer clinically-effective treatments and grow their market share servicing consumers who want to look and feel their best. “Spectrum has experienced huge growth for those clients willing to invest in the latest and highest quality equipment to meet the demand in the industry and capitalise on the urge for that youthful glow,” Skeggs confirmed. SPECTRUM SCIENCE AND BEAUTY Spectrum Science & Beauty is a developer and full support supplier of IPL Machines, laser and light-based aesthetic devices, beauty equipment and skincare. Spectrum’s products include IPL Machines, LED Light Therapy Devices, Hair Removal Lasers, Hydrodermabrasion Machines, Micro-Needling Pens, Tattoo Removal Lasers, Skin Tone Sensors, Fractional RF for Anti-Aging, Laser Technologies, Professional and Retail Cosmeceutical Skincare and BeautyPay Payment Solution. If you want to find out how Spectrum can support your beauty clinic contact the team on 1300 756 198.


Skyrocket Your Clinic’s Profit, Increase Your Customer Base & Charge More For Your Services With Our World Class, ResultsDriven IPL Technology Purchase Your IPL From Spectrum And Receive FREE Access To The Spectrum Success Academy *Terms and conditions apply.

We Have An IPL Machine For Everyone – No Matter Your Budget Or The Size Of Your Clinic You may think your clinic is too small, or our class leading IPL machines are out of your budget. If this is the case, you’ll be pleasantly surprised to know we have a solution for everyone. We have IPL machines in a range of different sizes and functionality and they are priced competitively from our Alma Rejuve, Spectrum Lumiere Pro right through to our portable Spectrum Giovane.

How Much Would Your Beauty Clinic Grow If You Had All The Tools, Training & Support That You Need To Outperform Your Competitors? Sales and Marketing Training Business Building Training Training by Experts Easy to Implement

As a Spectrum equipment IPL customer you get class leading equipment, training based on the latest clinical research/proven methods, high quality clinical support, unparalleled service support. We are also here to partner in growing your business with access to the Spectrum Success Academy. It’s about learning from those who have walked the path before you and using their strategies and tools that work. There is nothing like it in the beauty industry and we can’t wait for you to see it.

Call 1300 766 198 Today! Visit the Spectrum website today www.spectrumsciencebeauty.com.au

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EDUCATION

The rise of the Clinical Approach and its impact on Client Care An interview with Caylynn Jagga

THERE IS NOTHING like a passionate student who is driven to excel in what they do - that is how we would describe Caylynn Jagga. Caylynn is currently in her final year at Victoria University studying for a Bachelor of Health Science (Dermal Therapies). Originally a Diploma qualified beauty therapist, she decided to pursue her qualifications further in search of a higher level of understanding of the skin and ways of treating more challenging skin conditions. As a beauty therapist she has worked in various salons and is very familiar with the professional level of service that she was able to deliver. However, since undertaking her degree studies she has also worked in a hospital clinic with plastic surgeons and nurses. These two were very different experiences and she approached us to share with our readers how these experiences differ, with the ultimate goal to help business owners identify the way they can gain maximum value and benefit from a degree qualified practitioner. While, most would have a basic understanding of the various qualification levels and what they bring to the profession, Caylynn’s enthusiasm to encourage a greater understanding and appreciation was quite compelling so we decided to interview her and give her the opportunity to share her experience with our readers. APJ1: Caylynn, we believe you are studying to become a Dermal Clinician at Victoria University, what drew you to study skin at a degree level and what year are you up to at Victoria University? I am in my final year of a 4-year Bachelor of Health Science (Dermal Therapies) and I have enjoyed every moment. I have always been interested in health science, beauty and cosmetic medicine, so when I finished my Diploma of Beauty Therapy I felt that I needed to gain further in-depth knowledge specific to the skin. I was eager to dive into a deeper understanding of the aetiology and pathophysiology behind common skin disorders, such as acne and pigmentation. I wanted to gain critical thinking skills and increase my level of professionalism, which I gained through evidence-based research and degree-level education. Critical thinking is defined as “the objective analysis and evaluation of an issue in order to form a judgement�. In order to make an objective judgement a deeper understanding of the skin and any pathophysiology presented is needed and that is what we focus on in the Bachelor of Health Science (Dermal Therapies) as opposed to a Diploma level of Beauty. At a Diploma level I learnt to deliver treatments based on specific protocols of how to do a treatment rather than focusing on how to determine the specific course of action in correcting a condition.

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APJ 2: What subjects have you enjoyed the most and how do you believe your knowledge will allow you to offer consumers comprehensive treatment plans with successful treatment outcomes? The subjects which I have enjoyed the most would be my dermal sciences and laser physics units. These were specifically targeted towards the skin and its appendages, cell-to-cell communication and cytology, as well as skin disorders and diseases. Dermal science gave me the ability to differentially diagnose between various skin conditions. I acquired a deeper understanding of the underlying causes and molecular markers involved to treat conditions both acute and chronic, as necessary. All of our assessment both written and practical, work with evidence-based practice and critical thinking skills rather than protocols that are taught at a Diploma level. Some examples of learning outcomes across the dermal science units include cellular respiration, injury and adaption, inflammation and its comprehensive phases, wounds and healing, biochemistry of the epidermis and dermis, oncogenesis, percutaneous absorption pathways, viruses, bacteria and pigmentation disorders. By having a comprehensive understanding of these areas and many more, allows me as a Dermal Clinician to create individual, objective treatment plans using a range of modalities such as laser devices, electrotherapies, chemical peels and lymphatic drainage techniques, just to name a few. My laser physics units were a challenge, however, learning the exact mechanism of action of each type of laser device, the associated wavelengths and their effects allows me to appropriately and safety choose parameters for presented conditions. This knowledge is a huge point of difference, which sets us apart from those who may have just completed a short laser course. Additionally, as a part of our Bachelor studies each year we have a laser unit that builds upon the last. We study everything from light physics, the mechanics of lasers and IPL devices, the wavelengths and the important theory of both selective photo-thermolysis and the extended theory of selective photo-thermolysis. Lasers are an ever-evolving technology with great capabilities as well as risks. Without sufficient training the risk of adverse reactions, are high. When I look at the level of knowledge I have gained over the past 4 years, I can recognise why a short training course with a supplier may more likely result in unwanted side effects. For effective treatment outcomes critical thinking, parameter considerations for lasers should be chosen according to the presented condition and not by just looking at the manual given by the company. It should


not be a one-size-fits-all approach, manuals are there only as a guide and it is up to the user to make justifications for their parameter selections. A Bachelor course offers the graduate the knowledge and confidence to bring a new level of treatment outcome both for the benefit of their employers and for their clients. Their knowledge allows them to create individualised treatment plans through an objective point of view which draws on their knowledge and research from the specific areas of study. APJ 3: How would you compare the knowledge base to a Diploma of Beauty Therapy compared to your degree program? Through doing some research across the disciplines of Dermal Clinicians, Beauty Therapists and Nurses, Dermal Clinicians do predominately cross into the medical arena due to the length of time and study behind us. Although I gained a lot of great knowledge when doing my Diploma that I can still utilise, I have certainly built on it at a different level through the Bachelor. A Diploma by definition is “a credential awarded by an educational establishment to show that someone has successfully completed a course of study”. This covers the broad ideas around a concept and can recognise that you are competent in your work. However, in comparison, a Bachelor by definition is “is an undergraduate academic degree awarded by colleges and universities upon completion of a course of study lasting three to seven years”. This type of study covers specific areas, in this case, the aetiology of various skin conditions at a cellular and molecular level, as an example, looking at the causes of skin conditions, not just their manifestations. In a Bachelor the origins of conditions are discussed rather than just the manifestation of the condition, which is taught broadly at a Diploma level. An analogy we can use to compare a Diploma to a Bachelor would be the Diploma will teach the superficial conditions that may present on the skin and a brief outline of the layers involved. A Bachelor will teach how and why the skin condition may arise, what cellular communication occur and how to differentially diagnose and then treat the cause rather than the physical symptoms. This is what I felt was very different when studying my Diploma of Beauty and Bachelor of Health Science (Dermal Therapies). Another area that differs between the two courses is the ability to research. At a Diploma level research is minimal, with a focus on practical and competency-based skills whereas in my Bachelor studies I am required to spend hours researching, peer reviewed journal articles across multiple databases to gain insight on what I may be looking into. We take information that has evidence and has been scientifically-tested from which we can then critically analyse and formulate our objective views in the form of an essay. In the Bachelor we do have a balance of practical and theoretical work, however, it will be marked to a standard rather than just a competency. I found that in my Diploma studies I was taught to understand a product range and how it worked with little room to think outside these parameters, whereas at a Bachelor level I was provided with more objective education where learning is through critical thinking on an individual basis and applying knowledge across many aspects. Due to the learning delivery of a Bachelor’s degree, an understanding of the mechanisms of the skin allows us to more accurately find solutions which gives us the ability to work collaboratively with doctors or nurses.

APJ 4: If a salon or clinic is looking at employing a dermal clinician what can they expect from them? Employing a dermal clinician is employing a specialist in a field of study. We have spent four years learning the skin inside and out and at a cellular level. We consult patients concerns from an objective view, spending a minimum of 30-minutes discussing the overall person’s needs, differentially diagnosing and using technologies such as visual imaging to their highest advantage. We spend time identifying the causes of a condition rather than just stating the facts. By doing this, we provide our clients, or patients with appropriate justification of our course of action educating them along the way so they too can begin to better understand their skin. Due to our developing critical thinking skills and research abilities we are able to draw upon science and evidence to create individual treatment plans which will best address these concerns increasing the overall success for their treatment results. Additional to the biological aspects of the skin, Dermal Clinicians also study the mechanism of action behind many different treatment modalities such as laser or electrotherapies. We are required to operate devices such as lasers to their potential due to our understanding of their functions and effects on certain skin conditions, such as post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, which is a common pigmentary change post acne or trauma in an area. The way in which we could treat a patient with PIH would involve multiple modalities and treatments such as topical sunscreens, tyrosinase inhibitors, chemical peels and Q-switched laser devices. Our ‘tool box’ has great variance and evidence to back up our treatment plans. APJ 5: What gap do you believe that this degree program brings to the industry and how do you believe that salons can best take advantage of the knowledge and skills of a Dermal Clinician? The degree program of the Bachelor of Health Science (Dermal Therapies) bridges the gap between the broad knowledge gained through a Diploma of Beauty Therapy and a specialist such as a dermatologist or a cosmetic nurse. We are able to connect into the medical arena due to the time spent in our studies. The depth of knowledge that we are required to reach is quite extensive. This allows us to take a more comprehensive approach to skin corrective procedures rather than just fit into a pre-determined protocol. For example, nurses are qualified in understanding the anatomy and physiology of the body from a disease perspective, whereas a dermal clinician specialises with skin as the focus. This allows us to effectively work alongside a nurse, dermatologist or plastic surgeon with a multidisciplinary approach.

CONCLUSION While I appreciate the knowledge that I have gained as a dermal therapist, I also recognise that there are many diploma level beauty therapists who have a wealth of experience and valuable knowledge over the years that would position them above and beyond of their initial training. I also recognise that as a Degree graduate there is still a great deal that I have to learn from those who have been in practice for many years. I also welcome the opportunity to collaborate with a salon, clinic owner or medical practice who would like to explore how my education can potentially bring a new level of treatment outcome and enhance what they are currently delivering. It is all about mutual respect and working collaboratively and inter-professionally for the benefit of the consumer and in ways that will also support business growth. APJ

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INGREDIENTSCIENCE

GINGER Making New Headlines By Eva Boyd WITH SUMMER on our doorstep there is nothing more refreshing than a glass of chilled water with a slice of ginger. There is so much research available on the benefits of ginger, so new findings on its benefits were welcoming to me, particularly when it measured the benefits to protecting the body against toxicity. In our modern world, even if we are eating organic food, it is almost impossible to escape radiation and environmental pollution, so the new research findings are quite exciting. NEW RESEARCH RESULTS After getting substantial attention from researchers around the world, a clinical review published recently in the Food and Chemical Toxicology Journal confirms that ginger (Zingiber officinale) serves as a viable antidote and protective agent against fatal poisoning from such agents as pesticides, environmental pollutants, heavy metals, bacterial and fungal toxins and even some cosmetic products and medications. The study acknowledges the protective effects of ginger and its phytochemicals against natural, chemical and radiationinduced toxicities. It also holds an "arsenal of metabolites" with numerous health benefits, including antioxidant, antiinflammatory and anti-apoptotic (programmed cell deathinducing) properties, some of which we already know. However, the researchers concluded that the properties in ginger could (and should) encourage additional study in regard to alleviating damage from radiation and chemotherapy in cancer treatments, as well as ways it could be used to offset the chemical toxicity of some of the previously mentioned toxins, as well as industrial pollutants, alcohol, smoking and/or prescription drugs. Non-alcoholic fatty liver disease (NAFLD) is another condition that has shown vast improvement with the use of ginger. APJ 84

Non-alcoholic fatty liver is often a strong contributing factor to weight loss resistance. One study stated that several mechanisms are at work in this chronic condition that's reaching epidemic proportions, and inflammation, is one of the main contributors. There's evidence that supplementing with ginger or increasing it in your diet could increase the effectiveness of lifestyle interventions, such as diet modification and increased physical activity, compared to lifestyle interventions alone. In fact, there's evidence that with obesity and fatty liver disease, both attributed to the liver, ginger in any form may prove to be an essential strategy for both liver detoxification and as a support strategy. INCONCLUSIVE PREVIOUS STUDIES Ginger has been used for millennia in areas of India and China for much more than adding a sweet/spicy flavour to foods and drinks. It's proved over time to be a popular remedy to soothe headaches, nausea, particularly motion sickness, and to treat several problems related to digestive health as well as pain and inflammation from arthritic conditions, to mention but a few. But even up to the present century, studies with titles touting the benefits of ginger on conditions like obesity used rats as study subjects rather than humans, or were conducted in vitro. However, new studies on humans is providing valuable confirmation on how ginger can provide evidence-based benefits. NEW STUDIES ON THE EFFECTIVENESS OF GINGER ON HUMANS However, it finally happened. A randomised, controlled trial was conducted recently to evaluate the results of


taking one teaspoon of ginger in a teacup of hot water. The participants who drank the "hot ginger beverage" reported feeling much less hungry afterward. Researchers then used hot water alone in another trial, without the ginger as their "control," but as the subjects were aware that they were not ingesting ginger, the placebo effect would come into play. To remedy that, the scientists thought about providing powdered ginger into capsules for the study subjects to swallow for a double-blinded study, but decided against it because of the possibility that at least part of the effect of ginger might be through taste receptors on the tongue. Not all the effects were just subjective. Four hours after drinking, the metabolic rate in the ginger group was elevated compared to control, though in a previous study, when fresh ginger was added to a meal, there was no bump in metabolic rate. The researchers suggest this may be due to the different method of ginger administration, as fresh ginger was given instead of dried, as it is believed that the dried ginger may have slightly different properties. While the researchers found that participants who had the ginger tea in the study reported more satiety and fullness than those who had the hot water control beverage, there was no follow-up on the participants to see if they actually ate less for lunch that day. The fact is, there had never been a randomised, double-blind, placebo-controlled study of that much ginger and weight loss until recently, when 44 patients with non-alcoholic fatty liver disease were directed to consume one teaspoon of ginger every day for 12 weeks. This time, though, it was hidden in capsules. Both groups in the trial were told to also limit their dietary cholesterol intake and get more fibre and exercise. So, that meant that even the placebo group should improve, but did the ginger group do any better? The answer is, yes - daily consumption of just that teaspoon of ground ginger a day 'resulted in a significant decrease in inflammatory marker levels and improvements in liver function tests, and a drop, in liver fat. All with just a teaspoon of ginger powder a day, with no drop in the placebo group. THE RADIO-PROTECTIVE EFFECT FROM GINGER AND OTHER PLANT-BASED COMPOUNDS And it’s not just for fatty liver. Another study discusses how compounds in ginger root protect white blood cells against genetic damage caused by exposure to radiation, for example during a cancer treatment. Scientists have been curious about the disease-preventative elements in plant-based foods. Lots of different plant products have been found to be protective in vitro against radiation damage by a whole variety of mechanisms. The problem with radiation for treating cancer patients is that side effects include damage to normal tissue. Radioprotective compounds found in ginger, as well as goji berries, garlic and turmeric, can selectively protect normal tissues against radiation injury. Simultaneously, it allows the use of higher doses of radiation for cancerous cells "and possible cure," one study notes. However, "synthetic compounds are toxic at their optimal concentrations," which is why plant-based interventions have been explored. Ginger and its phytochemicals, including zingerone, have radioprotective effects. Studies on the mechanisms involved suggest its antioxidant compounds

scavenge free radicals and fight inflammation while being anticlastogenic — protective against chromosome breakage or disruption. Another plant-based agent with a similar effect is lemon balm. Made into tea, it was found to have protective benefits against radiation-induced oxidative stress experienced by radiology staff. Compared to other hospital staff, people who run X-ray machines have been found to suffer chromosomal damage and higher levels of oxidative stress. Unfortunately, not only can X-rays damage DNA directly, free radicals generated by the radiation wreak the most havoc. But there's good news - 55 radiology staff members were asked to drink a lemon balm infusion twice daily for 30 days while researchers measured their lipid peroxidation, DNA damage, catalase, superoxide dismutase, myeloperoxidase and glutathione peroxidase activity. Afterward, all markers showed either significant or marked improvement. So, what happened? The level of antioxidant enzymes in their bloodstream went up, and the level of free radical damage went down — leading to the conclusion that oral administration of lemon balm tea may be helpful for the protection of the radiology staff against radiation-induced oxidative stress and improved antioxidant defence system, especially enzymatic defence, due to its antioxidant properties. Looking at these results, remember to drink a few cuts of lemon balm tea next time you go for a mammogram! OTHER BENEFITS OF GINGER After years of study, ginger has been identified as a dramatic game-changer in several areas of human health. Besides being anti-inflammatory and a powerful antioxidant, there are antimicrobial properties that fight premature ageing. You'll also find gingerols, shogaols and paradols, less prominent but effective compounds in the rough-looking rhizome. Studies list numerous areas that benefit in the way of disease treatment and prevention due to ginger intervention, including: •

Degenerative disorders such as arthritis and rheumatism

Digestive health such as indigestion, constipation and ulcers

Cardiovascular disorders, from atherosclerosis to hypertension

Nausea from pregnancy and motion sickness

Diabetes mellitus, significantly lowered blood glucose

Cancer prevention is another area that's been well documented in regard to ginger. Studies note that "Ginger and its bioactive molecules are effective in controlling the extent of colorectal, gastric, ovarian, liver, skin, breast and prostate cancers. Preventive properties are also cited in another study, 6-shagaol being the pungent component involved in targeting breast cancer, particularly breast cancer stem cells. GINGER IN SKINCARE As far as the skin is concerned ginger, with its well-established evidence in cell protection from radiation and pollutants will become a validated ingredient in skincare formulations designed to protect the skin and support its defence against environmental ageing, so, look out for it in your formulations. APJ

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NEUROTRANSMITTERS

ARE YOU GIVING YOUR CLIENTS A DOPAMINE BOOST?

Dopamine motivates us to take action toward goals, desires, and needs, and gives a surge of reinforcing pleasure when achieving them. Procrastination, selfdoubt, and lack of enthusiasm are all linked to low levels of dopamine.

By Tina Viney LIFE CAN BE QUITE MEANINGLESS unless we can experience happiness, love and the joy of living. When it comes to these emotions and state of wellbeing, the amazing chemical messengers called neurotransmitters can play a very important role. Dopamine, serotonin, oxytocin and endorphins are the quartet responsible for our happiness. Many events can trigger these neurotransmitters, but rather than being in the passenger seat, there are ways we can intentionally cause them to flow. However, for the purpose of this article I want to focus on just one of them – DOPAMINE.

release neurotransmitters that can lift their mood and their ability to enjoy life. How good is that, so do you want to learn more? WHAT IS DOPAMINE?’ The brain relies on neurotransmitters to carry messages and signals. This happens as the neurotransmitters zing around in the spaces between cells and bind with receptors to transmit instructions. Dopamine is a neurotransmitter that is involved with many neurological and physical aspects, that influence our quality of life. Some of the areas that dopamine influence include:

Dopamine motivates us to take action toward goals, desires, and needs, and gives a surge of reinforcing pleasure when achieving them. Procrastination, self-doubt, and lack of enthusiasm are all linked to low levels of dopamine.

Sleep

Mood

Learning

The interesting thing about dopamine is that there are many things we can do to help improve our dopamine levels and some of those can be delivered in our salons or clinics. Understanding the role of dopamine and how we can influence it can mean that while we are improving our client’s skin, we can also be boosting the happy chemical and help

Movement

Memory

Reward

Behaviour

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Cognition

Attention

On the other hand, when dopamine levels are abnormal, problems can result, ranging from Parkinson’s disease (when brain cells cannot effectively produce dopamine) to drug addiction and beyond. Dopamine is most popular for being associated with reward and pleasure, since it gets released during situations that invoke this response. This can include anything like a favourite hobby, exercise, shopping, drugs and sex. Often referred to as the “motivation molecule,” dopamine provides the drive and focus we need to be productive. It is heavily involved with attention span, focus, follow-through, motivation, and the ability to experience pleasure. Dopamine-dominant people are usually focused go-getters and a little intense. However, a lack of dopamine is associated with: •

Fatigue

Apathy

Lack of focus

Forgetfulness

Moodiness

Difficulty concentrating

Insomnia

Sugar cravings

Lower motivation

HOW TO BOOST DOPAMINE Unfortunately, many of the things that people do to boost their focus and energy end up backfiring. Nicotine, caffeine, and sugar-laden, fat-filled treats are all very effective at increasing dopamine levels. However, these things that provide a quick boost end up disrupting the natural dopamine production process resulting in decreased dopamine production in the long-term. So, what are safe, healthy, natural ways to boost your dopamine levels?

So, here are some more healthy ways to help boost dopamine levels in our body: Eat foods rich in tyrosine There are certain foods that will support and help your body release dopamine and these are tyrosine-rich food. This is why dopamine is made in the body from an amino acid known as tyrosine. Tyrosine gets converted into dopamine in the body by enzymes, and without enough tyrosine, dopamine levels will suffer. This amino acid is found in abundance in protein-rich foods, specifically: Turkey, chicken, beef, eggs, lamb, pork, seafood, pumpkin seeds, almonds, bananas and avocados. Research shows that boosting dietary intake of tyrosinerich foods can increase and normalise dopamine levels in the brain. When tyrosine sources are low, dopamine levels can plummet and even become depleted. Your body needs tyrosine. Exercise regularly As we know movement is so important for health and mood improvement and one of the reasons is that physical exercise plays a key role in brain health. It increases the production of new brain cells, slows down brain cell ageing and can also increase your levels of dopamine. Meditation The overall health benefits of meditation have been demonstrated through hundreds of research studies. Many of those have shown that meditation, quietening one’s soul can also increase dopamine leading to improved focus and concentration. Get a massage Now we are moving closer to our work.  It has long been suggested that one way to keep dopamine levels high is to avoid stress, which is nearly impossible in this day and age. To counter the effects of stress, research has demonstrated that massage therapy increases dopamine levels by nearly 30% while decreasing cortisol (a stress hormone) levels. I know this to be true because when I have a massage, I experience a real decrease in my cortisol levels and actually my blood tests also show that my low haemoglobin count also improves by about 20% which is amazing. However, this only happens

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when the massage is slow and gentle – therapeutic, but not with deep tissue massage. Sleep To ensure that your brain increases dopamine naturally, you’ll want to make sure that you’re getting enough sleep. This includes setting aside time before bed away from the computer or TV screen. Lack of sleep has been shown to reduce concentrations of neurotransmitters, including dopamine, and their receptors. Listen to music It is not surprising that listening to music can increase pleasurable feelings, improve mood, boost energy, and help with focus and concentration. Research has demonstrated that much of this is achieved due to an increase in dopamine levels. Did you know that there is music that actually has been proven to release dopamine and serotonin? The studies confirm that certain soundwaves stimulate neurotransmitters in the brain and some wavelengths have also been proven to relieve depression, grief and sadness. If you want to experience some of the therapeutic benefits of soundwaves check out Michael Tyrrell’s Wholetones Healing Frequencies. You can listen to them on YouTube https://www.youtube. com/watch?v=31iD2VPLMxQ and he also has a series of CDs that you can purchase. There are now several studies that confirm how various sound frequencies which are measured by Hz can change the chemicals in our body. This is quite a well-researched study - another good idea to investigate for your salon or clinic. Supplement There are several adaptogenic herbs that are extremely beneficial for improving mood and help the body cope better with stress. The three well-researched ones that also support

healthy dopamine levels are Ashwagandha, Rhodiola, and Panax Ginseng. They minimise the impact of stress, promote improved focus and increased energy, while enhancing endurance and stamina. Symptoms of Low Dopamine If you identify with characteristics of low dopamine, it’s important to seek proper medical support to address your health and to avoid levels that continue to worsen. While some symptoms that might indicate low dopamine could overlap with others, chances are you could be dealing with suppressed dopamine levels if two or more of the following are true. Here are some symptoms to consider: •

Gain weight easily and then struggle to lose it

Have low drive, energy and motivation and tend to feel easily apathetic and down

Have low physical energy and often feel too tired, unmotivated to exercise or leave the house

Often feel depressed, sad or bored

Have poor concentration, focus, and retention

Rely heavily on sugar, caffeine, and food to energise you and bring you joy.

Causes of Low Dopamine While these can be attributed to many other conditions, like low thyroid or adrenal function, oftentimes these conditions can also be associated with suppressed dopamine levels. Several factors can lead to low dopamine, including alcohol, excessive caffeine, sugar, stress, lack of sleep, poor dietary choices, nutrient deficiencies, side effects of medications, including antidepressants. When you have dopamine levels that are where they should be, you’ll feel happier, energised, and focused. While there are many ways to improve dopamine levels, if you identify many of the deficiency symptoms it is advisable to consult a qualified health practitioner. IMPROVING DOPAMINE LEVELS IN THE SALON OR CLINIC Over the past decade with new advances in anti-ageing technology there has been a moving away from the feel-good, pampering services to more invasive procedures that promise great skin improvement. However, the pendulum is slowly swinging to a more centralised position, as more and more consumers are seeking both the results and the feel-good element of the salon experience. With new research evidence of the benefits of mindfulness, meditation, the healing power of touch, sounds and aromas, new treatment protocols are now a little more sophisticated and not as simplistic as in the past. If you are considering updating the dynamics of your service environment, it is well worth investigating the sounds you play, the manual treatments you deliver, the aromas you introduce into your work environment and to seek to identify 100 evidence for credible choices. This is a wonderful research area to study and formulate your own protocols, based on 95 your findings. Investigating these options will uncover ways to offer your clients added value by including elements 75 to improve their neurotransmitters and dopamine levels and ultimately enhancing their wellbeing – the ultimate combination of results and an incredible experience that will keep them coming back. APJ 25 5 0

APJ 88 Bitmap in CEO Report Mar17


ADVERTORIAL

A COMPARISON OF SKINIAL AND LASER TATTOO REMOVAL By Deanne Carney I AM OFTEN ASKED how Skinial Tattoo Removal method compares to laser tattoo removal, so here is some information that will allow you to compare the two, as there appears that there are several misconceptions. Laser tattoo removal might appear simple, but it’s actually quite a complicated process. Here’s how it works: Tattoo inks tend to be made of compounds from heavy metals often containing metals like lead, copper, and manganese. Some red inks even contain mercury. The metals in the ink is what gives tattoos their permanency, but some inks have been known to cause allergic reactions like eczema or substantial scarring. From the moment a needle deposits ink deep in the skin, the immune system recognises these particles as foreign intruders, dispatching armies of white blood cells to engulf them. The white blood cells then escort small ink particles to the liver, where they are processed and excreted. But many of the ink particles are much larger than white blood cells, which is why new tattoos fade over time, but won’t completely disappear naturally. According to a study conducted in 2015 and published in the Journal of Cutaneous and Aesthetic Surgery Laser tattoo removal using Q-switched lasers are considered the safest lasers to use, however complications can occur and include blistering, crusting and pinpoint haemorrhages. Among the delayed complications pigmentary changes, hypopigmentation and hyperpigmentation, paradoxical darkening of cosmetic tattoos and allergic reaction can occur. The report further stated that another common complication is the presence of residual pigmentation or ghost images. Scarring and textural changes are potential irreversible complications. In addition, tattoo removal by laser can be a prolonged tedious procedure, particularly with professionally applied tattoos, which are difficult to erase as compared to amateur tattoos.

In addressing allergic and foreign body reactions the report stated that classic pigments and their degradation products used in tattooing, such as dichromate (green) cobalt (blue), cadmium (yellow) and mercury salt (red-based pigments) are responsible for allergic reactions in permanent tattoos. In addition, it was reported that contamination of pigments with nickel sulphate can cause marked allergic reactions. Other allergen sources referred to included organic ingredients in tattoo pigments, such as azo dyes and quinacridone. Q-switch lasers or ultra-short pulse lasers are extremely hot, operate in a very narrow frequency, and are very, very fast. This speed and heat are crucial to cracking the ink particles apart. To break up an ink particle, you need to heat it to make it expand, but the zap has to be quick enough so that half of the particle remains cool. The opposing cool and hot forces then rip the ink particle apart. Once the lasers break the ink particles apart into bite-sized chunks, the white blood cells can absorb them for transportation to the liver. The concern is that the elimination of these particles through the lymphatic system, which is how they are disbursed via a laser treatment may lead to some of these questionable particles being lodge in human tissue and may eventually contribute to malignancy. The heat also contributes to change the chemical composition of these questionable heavy metals, which is a concern. When comparing the laser method to Skinial, the Skinial method draws the pigment to the surface and releases the tattoo pigments externally via exfoliation, compared to the laser method where the pigment is fragmented, absorbed internally and travels through the body to be eliminated. This is why the popularity of non-laser tattoo removal methods is on the rise. HERE ARE SOME INTERESTING FACTS: •

The average number of treatments to remove a tattoo: °° S kinial is 3-5 treatments °° Laser is 6-20 treatments

SKINIAL removes all colours universally and even cover up tattoos that are virtually impossible to remove using a laser due to the superimposed colours

Laser will affect hair regrowth. SKINIAL has no effect on hair follicles. This is so important in PMU (Brow) removals

SKINIAL has no effect on melanocytes, unlike laser

SKINIAL removals are far more comfortable than laser, comparable to getting the tattoo in the first instance

Pre-treatment with laser damages the cells in the dermal layer and can affect the rejection of ink, required for the SKINIAL Method

Laser relies on lymphatic drainage to move ink through the body to eventually excrete it. This makes lower leg and foot tattoo removals generally unsuccessful using a laser

Heat of the laser can dramatically and dangerously change the composition of the components of inks and may contribute to them becoming carcinogenic. The SKINIAL Method does not change the implanted ink, but removes it from the body entirely

If you are interested in further information about introducing SKINIAL treatments to your business please contact Deanne Carney on 0423 621 764 or australia@skinial.com APJ 89


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APAN LAUNCHES

CONTINUING PROFESSIONAL DEVELOPMENT (CPD) PROGRAM AS A NATIONAL STANDARDS BODY APAN provides membership opportunity for a diverse range of practitioners and business owners in aesthetics, dermal therapies, cosmetic tattooists, cosmetic nurses and cosmetic doctors. Members are provided with support in a variety of areas including business advice, industrial relations and wage concerns, regulatory compliance, discounted services, access to best practice documents as well as discounts for APAN sponsored conferences and professional development courses.

WHAT DOES ARAP OR CTARP REGISTRATION MEAN FOR YOU?

RECOGNITION FOR YOUR CREDENTIALS

INTRODUCING CPD POINTS

However, when it comes to assessing your qualifications and confirming and recognising your credentials that activity comes under a separate banner known as ARAP (for dermal therapists and aestheticians) and CTARP (for cosmetic tattooists). This is the formal APAN registration program and it is protected by a national trademark, which means that only those who have successful met the merit criteria will be allowed to use the acronym ARAP (APAN REGISTERED AESTHETIC PRACTITIONER), or CTARP (COSMETIC TATTOO APAN REGISTERED PRACTITIONER). Applicants are required to submit their credentials for assessment and if their qualifications meet with the necessary requirements, they will be awarded the appropriate status, which they can promote in their advertising. APAN will also promote them on the NATIONAL REGISTRY for consumers to access their details on their website.

There is a great deal of unrest among qualified practitioners who have worked hard to gain qualifications for the modalities they are performing, meanwhile there are others who are practicing as dermal therapists, laser and IPL practitioners, or cosmetic tattooists with no qualifications. This is because there is no regulatory instrument to prohibit them from doing do. ARAP and CTRP registration is an industry initiative that objectively assesses practitioner qualifications allowing them to gain recognition from an independent industry peak body acknowledging that they are indeed qualified to perform their professional responsibilities. This recognition sets them apart with an additional level of credibility that they can advertise and promote.

ARAP and CTARP practitioners are now required to provide evidence of their ongoing CONTINUING PROFESSIONAL DEVELOPMENT (commonly abbreviated as CPD). The new CPD program was launched in July this year and full details are now available on the APAN website. The CPD program refers to the process of tracking and documenting the skills, knowledge and experience that you gain, both formally and informally as you work, beyond your initial training. It is a formal record of what you experience, learn and then apply. Professionals who are registered through the ARAP or CTARP programs must complete mandatory CPD requirements in order to maintain their registration.

MAINTAINING YOUR ARAP OR CTARP REGISTRATION To maintain your ARAP or CTARP registration you must complete and provide evidence of your investment in your on-going education and professional development to the accrued value of 15 points per year through educational activities and educational providers that are approved by APAN. You can access this information from the APAN website www.apanetwork.com.

PROFESSIONALISM REQUIRED OBJECTIVE VALIDATION AND EVIDENCE OF ON-GOING COMMITMENT TO CURRENCY OF SKILLS AND KNOWLEDGE. APAN extends an invitation to all qualified professional to submit their qualifications and gain ARAP or CTARP registration. Gain validation of your credentials by a peak industry body that will vouch for your integrity. For further details Ph: 07 5593 0360 or www.apanetwork.com

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APAN’s standards recognition program now linked to continuing PROFESSIONAL DEVELOPMENT (CPD) PROGRAM As of July 2018, the CTARP and ARAP programs are now linked to a more comprehensive Continuing Professional Development (CPD) Program.

‘Let your credibility be your competitive advantage’

APPLY TODAY!

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Practitioner Clinical Associate Educator Master Educator

Who can apply: • • • •

Aesthetic practitioners Dermal therapists Dermal Clinicians Educators

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For further information visit www.apanetwork.com/arap and complete an online Application Form.

There are five ARAP registration classifications:

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INGREDIENTRESEARCH

A Nutrient Specifically Designed to Protect Your Skin By Metro-Dora Clifford

I’M SURE YOU HAVE heard of resveratrol. It’s a fabulous nutrient that fights everything from cancer to heart problems. This powerful antioxidant has gained a lot of media attention lately because it’s found in red wine and even chocolate. It’s a powerful polyphenol that we extract from grapes and other plants. But have you ever thought about why grapes produce resveratrol in the first place? Think about the structure of a grape. It’s held together by a thin membrane – the skin. And the grape has to keep itself safe from mould, ultraviolet radiation, toxins, and other invaders. Resveratrol helps it do that by defending the skin. And that makes it a natural fit for protecting our skin too. People have been using oral resveratrol supplements for a couple of decades now and of course, we’ve been enjoying the health benefits of red wine since people first figured out how to ferment grapes. But researchers are now investigating the advantages of applying resveratrol topically as well. You probably won’t be surprised to hear that in places like France and New York, you can actually bathe in red wine, but that’s probably not the best way to get Resveratrol into your skin. THE SKIN BENEFITS OF RESVERATROL Topical resveratrol does have plenty of benefits, but to experience them, you need to use resveratrol regularly. I can only imagine the state of your bathtub – and your grocery bill – if you bathed in red wine every day! Instead, you can look for skincare products with resveratrol included. Let me tell you what they can offer you. For starters, one study asked participants to use a resveratrol gel for 30 days. The researchers evaluated their skin according to the Global Acne Grading System before and after the treatment. And they found that the gel reduced their acne by about 54%. A number of effective acne treatments exist. But it’s always nice to find one that offers additional benefits rather than being harsh, as you know many acne treatments are quite harsh and resveratrol is certainly beneficial. In fact, it’s an even more powerful antioxidant than vitamins E and C. I like APJ 92

these other antioxidants a lot and I don’t think you should replace your current antioxidant products with resveratrol, but I believe you should use a combination, here is why: FIGHTING OXIDATIVE STRESS Oxidative stress affects every part of a cell, but some parts are made of fat and others are water, so you need antioxidants that can work in water, while you need others that are fatsoluble. Resveratrol is water-soluble, but many other vitamins commonly found in skincare products, including vitamins A and E, are generally fat-soluble, so using a mixture helps ensure that antioxidants are available to clear free radicals out of every part of the cell. Free radicals contribute to thinning and collagen breakdown in the skin, so having antioxidants available helps keep skin firm and more youthful. Resveratrol not only scavenges free radicals, but also helps keep them from forming in the first place. It does this by inactivating ions that produce the free radicals. By shutting down the problem of oxidative stress at the source, resveratrol offers significant protection to the skin – even from cancer. RESVERATROL AND SKIN CANCER Researchers estimate that skin cancer affects two out of seven Australians every year. Those are pretty high odds and while the majority of skin cancers are treatable, doctors diagnose approximately 68,130 cases of malignant melanoma every year, and these lead to approximately 8,700 annual deaths. Moreover, some research links a history of skin cancer to a greater risk of other deadly cancers, even if you beat the primary cancer, and even treatable forms of skin cancer can require surgeries and cause scarring. Clearly, it’s best to minimise risk in the first place. Resveratrol can help you do this. Previous studies have found that it can help fight cancer in all three major stages: initiation, promotion, and progression. And most studies have found resveratrol to be quite safe, with minimal side effects even if you take high doses orally.


One study of melanoma cell-lines found that resveratrol could induce apoptosis (cell death). Another study found that the antioxidant could decrease protein levels in melanoma cells. Without needed proteins, cancer cells can’t function and spread. Researchers also found that resveratrol could help inhibit the growth of these cancer cell-lines as well as decrease the viability of melanoma cell-lines without harming fibroblast (collagen-producing) cells. While these effects are promising, it’s certainly best to avoid letting melanoma cells get a foothold in your skin in the first place. RESVERATROL AND SUNBURNS Resveratrol even offers significant protection from UV radiation. It defends skin from damage from both UVA and UVB rays. As you know, these rays can contribute to both ageing and cancer. Another study found that resveratrol could help minimise damage from UVB exposure whether the researchers applied it 30 minutes before or five minutes after exposure. In fact, both applications work equally well. This suggests that resveratrol doesn’t act as a sunscreen; rather, it protects the skin through other channels, so don’t use resveratrol as an excuse to skip sunscreen! Despite not being a sunscreen, resveratrol does seem to help prevent sunburn in humans. One study of 15 healthy volunteers found that treatment with a resveratrol derivative significantly inhibited the formation of sunburn cells. Again, don’t replace sunscreen with resveratrol, however, using both is much better for your skin as it can offer an additional layer of protection. Interestingly, some studies have even found that resveratrol can help minimise the damage caused by exposure to cigarette smoke. Obviously, smoking can destroy your skin. And no amount of resveratrol can counteract the damage smoking will do to your body, but if you have to experience cigarette smoke exposure, even just walking around your city, resveratrol can help minimise its effects on you and your face.

REBUILDING THE SKIN’S COLLAGEN Finally, we’ve been talking a lot about how resveratrol can protect your skin and this defence is great as we need to protect our collagen from breaking down as much as possible. However, it’s also important to help build collagen back up. Research has found that resveratrol can increase cell proliferation, thus helping the body create healthy skin. Some naysayers regarding resveratrol’s effects comment on its bioavailability. And it’s true that drinking red wine and eating chocolate aren’t an efficient way to get resveratrol, despite what headlines like to claim. In fact, you’d have to drink 700 bottles of wine to reach the resveratrol levels used in some studies, and that would have other health implications. The good news is that applying resveratrol topically sidesteps this issue. Topical resveratrol comes into direct contact with the part of the body you want it to help, so it’s quite bioavailable. Of course, you can also consider resveratrol in supplement form, if you want to take it orally as well. SPECIAL OFFER ClinicalPro has included a 10% discount on their RESVERATROL SKIN PEEL KITS, which are already discounted by 20% when you purchase any of the Kit Packs. This summer, they want your clients to have the protection it offers in the morning and its repair potential in the evening. Of course, if you enjoy your red wine and chocolate, you can certainly have them in moderation. You will get some resveratrol from these, along with foods like blueberries, strawberries, cranberries, and even pistachio nuts, but you don’t need to bathe in red wine or apply a chocolate mask to get resveratrol’s benefits. Just look for it in your Clinical Skincare products to get all of the protection without the expense, or the mess of these more extreme strategies. APJ CONTACT ClinicalPRO 1800 628 999 or 07 3350 6898 ask@ clinicalpro.com.au www.clincialpro.com.au APJ 93


SKINSCIENCE

Myths and the Truths about SUNBURN By Eva Boyd

AS SUMMER is now upon us the frenzy for bronzing will be in high demand. While sunbeds for professional use are considered illegal in Australia there are still some companies that are retailing them to consumers promoting information about their safety that could be misleading. In this article we address some of the common myths regarding the whole issue of tanning to help educate your clients about the facts. YOU CAN ONLY BURN IN THE SUMMERTIME The sun is a powerful source of ultraviolet radiation, which causes DNA damage and genetic mutations that lead to the development of skin cancer. While it's true that the sun’s UV levels are strongest when temperatures are high, the truth is you are exposed to the sun's harmful rays all year round, even in the winter. In fact, according to the World Health Organisation, fresh snow is a major reflector of UV radiation, which is why skiers wear goggles to protect their eyes from snow blindness. Wearing sunscreen every single day, no matter how warm it is outside, is the easiest and best way to prevent skin from absorbing these dangerous UV rays, especially if you are outdoors. It does not matter what season it is. SUNBURNS ARE ONLY BAD IF THEY ARE RED OR CAUSE PEELING This is a common myth. Not all sun damage looks the same. Even though plenty of people spend hours in the sun trying to get a golden glow, the harsh reality is that any change in skin colour is a sign of sun damage, even if it's not red. Although red or pink skin is a tell-tale sign that you've been burned, studies confirm that you can have a sunburn long before your skin becomes visibly pink. “In fact, the first sign you may be getting a sunburn is that your skin will start to itch and feel hot,” experts say. Other subtle signs your skin is burning include skin tenderness or tightness, and even increased thirst. Also, if you press down on the skin and it turns white, that can mean you've already damaged your skin. You'll want to get out of the sun as soon as possible to avoid further damage. A BASE TAN WILL PROTECT YOU FROM BURNING This is another commonly held myth that if you give yourself a "base tan," either by laying out in the sun pre-emptively, or

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by using a tanning bed before extended sun exposure like on vacation or during the summer, you'll be protecting your skin from sunburn, but this is simply untrue. The myth of the base tan exists because of research that states a base tan gives skin the equivalent of a sun protection factor SPF 3 or 4, offering modest protection from absorbing the sun's UV rays. But this level of protection is not enough. To truly protect yourself from a sunburn, you'll want to liberally apply a sunscreen with a much higher SPF than that. The American Academy of Dermatology recommends using water-resistant sunscreen with SPF of 30 or higher and features broad-spectrum protection, which means it shields skin from the sun's UVA and UVB rays. THE SUN IS AT ITS STRONGEST WHEN THE WEATHER IS AT ITS HOTTEST Not necessarily true. Did you know that you can get a sunburn in the late afternoon? According to the Centres for Disease Control, the sun’s rays are at their most dangerous during midday hours, between 10 a.m. and 4 p.m. and while those hours tend to be the warmest part of the day in most places, that doesn't mean the sun is any less strong when it's cooler. You need adequate sun protection no matter how warm it is outside, taking care to ensure extra protection during those midday hours. The early morning sun can still cause a sunburn, just as spending time outside in autumn and winter, can also. AN OCCASIONAL SUNBURN ISN’T BAD FOR YOU Each sunburn increases your odds of skin cancer. Though getting sunburnt doesn't guarantee you'll develop skin cancer in your lifetime, every single sunburn you get increases the risk that you will, even if it's not very painful, located in a small area, or only lasts for a few days. A 2008 study by researchers at the University of Iowa noted that an increased risk of melanoma was seen with increasing number of sunburns for all time periods, including burns during childhood, adolescence, adulthood and throughout a person's lifetime. Even scarier? According to the American Academy of Dermatology, a single severe sunburn at any point in your life can nearly double your lifetime risk of developing melanoma. Since each sunburn increases the


odds that you'll develop skin cancer, it's so important to protect your skin every day, no matter what. USING A TANNING BED IS A SAFE WAY TO TAN AND AVOID RISK OF BURNING No amount of indoor tanning is safe, no matter what the bronzed employees and advertisements might suggest. According to several studies, exposure to ultraviolet rays through tanning beds can cause skin cancers including melanoma, basal cell carcinoma, and squamous cell carcinoma. UV exposure also can cause cataracts and cancers of the eye (ocular melanoma). UV exposure from the sun and from indoor tanning is classified as a human carcinogen (causes cancer in humans) according to the International Agency for Research on Cancer. There are plenty of naturallooking sunless tanning options – the only healthy tan is a fake tan. YOU SHOULD GO FOR THE HIGHERST SPF THAT YOU CAN GET There's a reason sunscreen comes in many different SPFs.  On the market you will find sunscreen at varying SPF levels - 30, 50, 70, and even 100+ SPF. So how much more protection does a high SPF number offer you? According to Joshua Zeichner MD, director of cosmetic and clinical research in dermatology at Mount Sinai Hospital in New York City "a product with an SPF 30 means that you get the same amount of sun exposure after 30 minutes outside as you would get if you were unprotected outdoors for one minute." "SPF 15 protects against 93 per cent of UVB rays, SPF 30 protects against 97 per cent, and SPF 50 is about 98 percent." The truth is that no sunscreen is 100% effective in blocking the sun's rays, which is why sunscreen is no longer referred to as sunblock. But a higher SPF has been shown to better protect skin, according to findings recently published in the Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology. The study of 199 men and women compared the sunburn protection provided by SPF 100+ and SPF 50+ sunscreens by having them spend a day in natural light with half of their faces covered in each. The end results showed that 55% of participants were more sunburned on the SPF 50 side than they were on the SPF 100 side. But the harsh reality is that the number on the bottle, however high, means nothing if you're not applying a liberal amount of sunscreen to all areas of exposed skin, being sure to reapply at least every two hours, especially if you're swimming, sweating, or towelling off. Experts recommend at least 1 ounce (about the amount of a shot glass) for your body and a quarter-size amount for your face. The suggestion that by buying a high SPF you will not need to reapply is incorrect. No matter what kind of sunscreen you're using, you still need to reapply at least every two hours, more often if your skin is exposed to water by way of swimming or perspiration. SUNSCREEN CAN EXPIRE We've already discussed how much sunscreen you need, but you should also be sure that you're using a fresh bottle, so that leftover sunscreen from your beach vacation four years ago should probably be replaced. Your bottle should have an expiration date on it, but if it's

been in a hot or moist environment, you might want to toss it no matter what the date says. Sunscreens expire after approximately three years, but some sure-fire signs include a change in colour, consistency, or smell. Another issue is don’t wait to apply your sunscreen until you're exposed. In order to get the most protection from your sunscreen, you'll want to apply it at least 30 minutes before you hit that beach chair not when you're already out there. Sunscreen takes time to absorb into your skin, so you should aim to slather your entire body before you put on your swimsuit, which will make it easier to apply to areas normally covered by your suit that still need protection. If you're already outside before you put it on, your skin is unprotected, and thus, exposed to the sun's harmful rays. CERTAIN BODY PARTS DON’T BURN IN THE SUN The sun can even damage your hair. Plenty of areas are neglected by even the most diligent of sunscreen wearers, so you have to be smart about how you apply. Often forgotten areas include lips, eyelids, ears, and the bottoms of your feet, as well as any and all areas covered by your bathing suit. Don't forget about your hair and scalp, can be protected by using specially formulated products that will help prevent sun damage and also colour fading, too. YOU CAN’T BURN IF YOU’RE INSIDE If you drive often, consider keeping some sunscreen in your car. If you can see the sun, the sun can see you, which means you could be at risk for sunburns even if you're indoors. If your desk is by a sun-facing window, or you spend a lot of time in the car, you'll want to be extra vigilant about sun protection, because you're still at risk for measurable sun damage, says Andrew Alexis, MD, chair of dermatology at Mount Sinai West and Mount Sinai St. Luke's in New York City. Dr. Alexis also stated that while UVB are blocked by window glass, UVA can penetrate glass and deeper into your skin YOU CAN’T BURN ON A CLOUDY OR COOL DAY OR IF YOU IN THE SHADE According to the Cancer Council of South Australia, sun protection is necessary no matter what the weather report says. They note that sunburn is caused by UV radiation which is not related to temperature. A cooler or windy day in summer will have a similar UV index to a warmer day. They also added that you can still get sunburned on cloudy days, as UV radiation can penetrate some clouds and may even be more intense due to reflection off the bottom of the clouds. YOUR CLOTHES OR MAKEUP IS ENOUGH TO PROTECT YOU FROM BURNING Cosmetics with SPF are just an added bonus, a layer of extra protection on days when you're not enjoying outdoor activities, but makeup often alone should not be considered as a substitute for sun protection. Also note that hats, sunglasses, or clothing designed for sun protection while they have a level of protection, if you are spending any prolonged time outside, you will still need sunscreen. APJ

For a list of references, please contact the editor.

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BUSINESSPSYCHOLOGY

THE HUMAN AND DIGITAL INTERACTION Gaining the Balance for Business Success By Katherine McCann

AS INTERACTIVITY is one of the biggest drivers when it comes to enhancing and exceeding customer satisfaction and their personal service experience within the aesthetic and cosmetic tattooing sphere, people are constantly online, learning about new products and services and continually sharing their experiences with others to ensure they are getting the best results and value for their dollar.

adopt and rollout in order to standardise, replicate and measure performance, growth and overall successes, all of which are based on a number of intrinsic and extrinsic factors. However, with the ever-growing digitalisation and automation of business practices, the human factor still remains the most compelling element to develop and secure engagement and loyalty.

As a cosmetic tattooist and small business owner myself, client attraction, engagement, retention and conversion are constant variables and significant determining factors of my success due to the fact that generally, cosmetic tattoo clients only attend 1-2 visits (per procedure) and return again around 12-18months later for their colour refresh. Therefore there is the ongoing continual requirement to attract new clients that becomes a perpetual cycle until one reaches the point of individual saturation, or expands to increase additional capacity – whichever comes sooner.

Budget obviously plays a huge role in the amount of technological sophistication that can be implemented and for the purpose of this article, I am aiming primarily at the individual small to medium-sized businesses who are working with less capital and requiring innovative and practical suggestions for enhancing their customer experience. However, any of these ideas can be customised or adapted and implemented into any size business that is seeking sustainable organic client growth.

Gone are the days when simply ‘being good at what you do’ is enough to fill your books and keep clients rolling through the door. Brand loyalty waivers for a number of reasons, whether it is price point, distance, ease of accessibly, individual skillset, or simply personal preference, but one thing for sure is these days, people want and expect an exceptional customer ‘experience’ along with good consistent service and if they don’t get it, you will soon hear about it. SURVIVING IN THE DIGITAL AGE

SKILLS+PSYCHOLOGY = SUCCESS One of the most under-acknowledged, but vital factors of the client/practitioner relationship is what is known as the psychological contract, which is best described as an individual’s beliefs about the terms and conditions of a reciprocal exchange agreement between themselves and another party, (such as the business, or service provider) (Rousseau 1989).

As our clients and potential clients become savvier, globalisation and consumerism is forcing businesses to continually tweak their strategies to ensure they retain a competitive business advantage. However, the rate of adaptation and change is also substantially increasing to a point where human interaction, originality and thinking outside the square is fast becoming one of the major factors that sets one business apart from another.

As there are two parties to every psychological contract, there are also the implied mutual obligations and expectations - “the psychological contract is perceptual, unwritten, and hence not necessarily shared by the other party to the exchange” (Coyle-Shaprio and Kessler 2000). This is a critical point and an extremely important one to consider as it will substantially contribute to the success of the service delivery. This is because the two parties may hold different views to the extent to which they feel the contract has then been fulfilled.

So, when it comes to delivery of exceptional customer service, there are a plethora of ‘traditional’ methods that businesses

A psychological contract violation (PCV) occurs when a client or practitioner perceives that the other party has not

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fulfilled their obligations (Morrison and Robinson 1997; Coyle-Shapiro 2002). For example, these unmet expectations may cause a psychological contract violation and result in feelings of anger, resentment, betrayal, disappointment, frustration, distress, bitterness, indignation, and outrage (Morrison and Robinson 1997). This can be the case in either the client, or the practitioner when expectations fall short, or are misinterpreted, as PCVs are a particularly important factor. These violations can take place in any person in any organisation for a wide variety of reasons. METRIX ARE SEXY – THE VALUE OF DATA COLLECTION Customers have a myriad of different expectations and questions and it is required that these should be addressed within a certain timeframe. As practitioners, we need to understand their query or problem, gather options and set expectations and then provide context-based answers or solutions. A consultative approach at the start of the interaction gives the client the feeling of inclusion as it fosters a deeper lever of understanding – I call it context-based learning. This process is highly valuable to you as the practitioner as it will allow you to gage how to deal with your client and deliver a bespoke service that will meet with their expectations. However, in light of our understanding of the psychological contract, it is important that when we are gathering data about our clients that we also look for their psychological cues. As a business owner, learn to understand your client is critical and you should achieve that through a mixture of personal evaluation, as well as objectively, by measuring what your digital data is revealing. Here are some suggestions: •

Customer journeys are cross functional by nature – so merging them across traditional business structures, or processes can become tricky. It’s therefore beneficial to think outside the square and look at how you can add value, while at the same time being functional.

Become your own customer, this way you can experience first hand what your clients respond to, for example; mystery shop business, call your salon, jump onto your website and interact as a client would, look to see if you can identify any weak points, or bottle necks in the whole process and aim to have these ironed out as quickly as possible.

Businesses also need to ensure they collect the appropriate data and that this is interpreted clearly in order to be useful in terms of monitoring, measuring, analysing and optimising your business performance and client experience.

Remember if your data collection is unreliable, out-of-date or incomplete, then you are at risk of creating business strategies, goals or objectives based upon inaccurate metrics thus limiting your ability to make pivotal changes as required. Tear up the traditional playbook. Much of the current trends lean towards the normal avalanche of programmatic marketing, social automation, digitisation, artificial intelligence and predictive analytics. As exciting as these may be with respect to interaction and ongoing connectivity, we must never neglect nor underestimate the power of the personal touch in gaining valuable client data to determine how it fits into the ever-evolving technological business world. It is a known fact that in this ‘digital age’ clients yearn for the ability to connect directly with a person should they have questions, or queries and with this in mind, businesses should aim to implement and achieve that balance of both digital and human interaction. This will allow you to move easily between these elements in order to continue to deliver the customer experience or service that your clients are wanting. Due to automation, people crave services, advice and experiences delivered by an actual person. Mastering this balance will enable you to develop meaningful connections that will allow your clients to not just relate to you as a practitioner, but also value you as an important individual they feel comfortable to associate with. APJ


TREATMENTS

THE POWERFUL INFLUENCE OF AROMAS By Tina Viney

THE UNDERSTANDING that our sense of smell is 10,000 times more sensitive than any other of our senses will help us realise why smell plays such an important role in the way we feel, our moods and our emotions. They also have an incredible ability to influence our past memories – both good and bad. Other senses like touch and taste must travel through the body via neurons and the spinal cord before reaching the brain, whereas the olfactory response is immediate, extending directly to the brain. This is the only place where our central nervous system is directly exposed to the environment. Why is this import to us as practitioners? Knowledge on how the sense of smell works will allow us to utilise this medium in the safest possible way to help improve our clients’ mood, emotions and ultimately benefit their wellbeing. Fragrances used intentionally, will also help build trust, comfort and create a positive memory that can serve both the client and you as their practitioner. And talking about safety, let us consider another interesting fact - many artificial fragrances and perfumes are considered toxic, yet according to Euromonitor International, the global fragrance market was estimated in 2016 at US$7.9 billion dollars and recent statistics indicate that the growth in perfumery demand has grown another 2.6%. Why do we want to surround ourselves and identify with certain fragrances? How do our brains register smells and what messages do they carry? THE SENSE OF SMELL AND THE LIMBIC SYSTEM The olfactory bulb is one of the structures of the limbic system and a very ancient part of the brain. The information captured by the sense of smell goes from the olfactory bulb to other structures of the limbic system. The limbic system is a network of connected structures near the middle of the brain linked within the central nervous system. These structures work together to affect a wide range of behaviours including emotions, motivation, and memory. This system deals with instinctive, or automatic behaviour and has little, if anything, to do with conscious thought or will. The limbic system is also concerned with translating sensory data from the neo-cortex (the thinking brain) into motivational

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forces for behaviour. The limbic system is centrally involved in the mediation between a person’s recognition of an event, their perception of it as stressful, and the resulting physiological reaction to it, mediated via the endocrine system: Stimuli are processed conceptually in the cortex, and passed to the limbic system where they are evaluated and a motivational response is formulated. HOW THE SENSE OF SMELL WORKS The sense of smell, just like the sense of taste, is a chemical sense. They are called chemical senses because they detect chemicals in the environment, with the difference being that smell works at dramatically larger distances than that of taste. The process of smelling goes more or less like this:

1. Vaporised odour molecules (chemicals) floating in the air reach the nostrils and dissolve in the mucus (which is on the roof of each nostril). 2. Underneath the mucus, in the olfactory epithelium, specialised receptor cells called olfactory receptor neurons detect the odour. These neurons are capable of detecting thousands of different odours. 3. The olfactory receptor neurons transmit the information to the olfactory bulbs, which are located at the back of the nose. 4. The olfactory bulb has sensory receptors that are actually part of the brain that send messages directly to the most primitive brain centres where they influence emotions and memories (limbic system structures), and to the “higher” centres where they modify conscious thought (neo-cortex). 5. These brain centres perceive odours and access memories to remind us about people, places, or events associated with these olfactory sensations. HOW CAN WE USE THE SENSE OF SMELL IN OUR WORK ENVIRONMENT? Each morning when I start my day if I am feeling somewhat lethargic I always reach out for my bottle of peppermint oil. I place just 2-3 drops on a paper towel and position it just beneath my computer monitor. As the aroma lingers toward me, I feel my nostrils clear and I can literally taste


the peppermint on my tongue. My mind clears and I am reminded that I need to pull all my faculties together and apply myself and make sure that this is going to be a productive day – there is no other option! Why does peppermint oil have this effect on me? Is it because I love its aroma, or is it something else? I have to say that even though I find the aroma pleasant I am also very focused on its medicinal benefits. Peppermint oil helps relieve headaches, allergy symptoms, digestive complaints, muscle tension and boosts energy levels. At the beginning of my day, I don’t have time to figure out the exact cause as to why I am feeling lethargic, so I turn to peppermint with its multiple benefits and know it will not let me down. Understanding the powerful nose/brain connection undoubtedly allows me to use aromatherapy oils to improve my physical, mental, or emotional state. The beauty of aromatherapy is that the aromas are not just pretty smells, their therapeutic molecules can also work physiologically to calm the nervous system, alleviating stress and anxiety and in helping lift one’s mood. Aromatherapy fragrances can also elevate feelings of comfort and helping relax the body by first relaxing the mind to allow it to experience relaxation. As we have seen, our sense of smell can take us back to a good or a bad experience, so how can we avoid choosing an aroma that may be linked to an unpleasant memory? While this may be a possibility when selecting an aroma, research is discovering that there are many aromas that have a positive impact on most people. Most of these oils have a calming influence, or boost energy and increase alertness. I have always found that high quality oils that retain their therapeutic properties have always been well received when I was in practice. If you have never investigated the power of aromas here are a few suggestions:

1. Don’t compromise on quality. Choose quality essential oils as their therapeutic constituents will not be compromised. 2. Focus on the nervous system. For use within a treatment environment, choose oils that work well on

the nervous system – Lavender, Rose, Vetiver, Bergamot and Chamomile. I also love orange, neroli, geranium and lemongrass, Sandalwood, Marjoram and Cedarwood. 3. Introduce them as mists. Dispersed in filtered water, essential oils can be sprayed as a gentle mist creating a soft, calming and even antibacterial mist to refresh a room just before your client walks in. 4. Regulate your client’s breathing. It is a wellestablished fact that shallow breathing is a result of stress. Place a few drops of essential oil on a tissue and place it in front of client’s nose. Ask them to take three very slow, deep breaths and inhale the essential oil, followed by exhaling between each inhalation. This will help regulate their breathing to a more relax state, while allowing the essential oil to reach their limbic system and help relax and relieve any tension they may be experiencing. CONCLUSION As treatment options increase, consumers are now seeking the personalised experience. The popularity of bespoke, or customised treatments is ever-growing. This is a powerful way to engage with your clients allowing them to appreciate and recognise that you are using your skills to provide them with treatments that are specifically tailored to their needs and not just a standard menu option. The key here is to create protocols that work synergistically to benefit the client. The advanced approach in determining treatment choices is now based on a Client Consultation that exams the whole body, not just the face. This process seeks to identify underling health factors and lifestyle choices that are impacting on the skin’s health, this also includes evaluating the neurological condition and stress levels of the client. In helping to improve mood and relieve stress levels there is not a better tool to achieve this than through quality aromatherapy essential oils. As we gain a better understanding of the skin/brain connection this allows us to increase our tools to enhance not just skincare results, but also the overall client experience that will continue to positively impact them well after they leave your clinic. This is another way to build reputation, client engagement and ultimately their trust and loyalty. APJ

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AESTHETICS INDUSTRY BULLETIN “Please, share this information and start your salon initiative in being part of THE BLISS PROJECT, and together, let’s remove the ink”, Daniela said. APJ

AN INVITATION TO BE PART OF THE BLISS PROJECT Daniela Boerma is a highly compassionate beauty therapist and owner of Bliss Day Spa in Caringbah, Sydney. She is passionate not just about servicing her clients, but also allowing her skills and talent to give back to those in need and help make this world a better place. This has driven her to establish a worthy cause called - The Bliss Project. As we know cancer effects an enormous amount of men and women world-wide. The after effects of radiation treatment can be difficult and one of the side effects is the permanent radiation markers that have been tattooed to the treatment area. “While some are happy to wear these markers proudly as a reminder of their strength, on the other hand, many of our clients that have finished radiation treatment have expressed interest in the removal of these tattoos, as on a daily basis they are reminded of the

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stress and pain they have gone through,” says Daniela. “It is these individuals that we want to offer help to and as a result, THE BLISS PROJECT was established. The objective of THE BLISS PROJECT is to bring on-board as many salons and clinics Australia-wide to provide their services free-of-charge to cancer patients to remove these markers and help restore a sense of comfort and relief to these brave individuals. “I ask you all to join me in The Bliss Project,” Daniela pleads. “With their doctor’s approval, let’s remove the ink together and make it a national project and a wonderful and caring way of giving back. “If you would like to join us in THE BLISS PROJECT all you need to do is email your salon or clinic’s name, address and phone number to info@blissdayspa.com.au and you will be added to the list that will be distributed to the appropriate departments that support cancer patients.

MARGI FOX WINS DISTRIBUTOR OF THE YEAR AWARD Not only did Margifox Distributors (MFD) celebrate their 15th Anniversary with jane iredale, the US based mineral makeup company, they also took out the top honour of the Iredale Mineral Cosmetics International Awards, winning the 2 ­ 017 Distributor of the Year. The criteria for distributor of the year award includes volume of course, but also includes five years of positive compound annual growth and the exclusive creativity factor. “Creativity has never been a problem for MFD, in fact they set the pace for innovation, their countless unique promotions coupled with creative packaging energises their partners and attracts new customers from throughout their territories”, said Jane Iredale, founder of jane iredale mineral makeup. The awards which take place


This section presents the latest news, training dates and other Aesthetic Industry information

annually, acknowledge the sales, promotions, innovations and education achievements of distributors from more than 50 different countries around the world. In April MFD launched a ‘What’s your Shade’ campaign inviting influences from all over the country to participate in a one-on-one consultation to match them with their perfect jane iredale foundation. This selfie-heaven event spread like wild-fire on social media converting influences and their

Margi Fox, Director of Margifox Distributors was thrilled by the announcement and humbled by the award. “The last 15 years have been a great privilege to work alongside a brand that I truly believe in and am proud to advocate and share with the rest of the country,” she said. APJ Visit margifox.com.au or call 1300 850 008 to find out more.

The Instant Fix: This refers to the age-old desire for instant gratification, focused on the skincare segment. Products that allow a consumer to see immediate improvement in bags or lines or brightening are often in this class. The Doll Look:  The use of cosmetic procedures, make-up, even surgery that promises the look of porcelain-like, smooth, perfect skin will continue to dominate consumer obsession, both with the younger sector as well as older women. It doesn’t aspire to be natural-looking — it’s about flawlessness and it’s taken deep root particularly in the makeup and hair businesses. Skin Care From The Earth:  The skin category continues to explode with more natural, clean and even food-standard products. There is a perception that skin and mind are linked and there's a connection between skin care and wellness. It’s the opposite direction from where makeup is going.

followers to jane iredale”. Education is at the forefront of Margifox Distributors’ dedication to stockist knowledge and their passion for jane iredale. MFD also invested heavily in education by building a brand-new facility, the artfully designed space lends itself to the continued education of their stockists. MFD’s dedication to clear, consistent and reliable brand communication with their 800 plus national stockists can be seen via their quarterly Marketing News magazine.

THE BIGGEST BEAUTY TRENDS FORCAST FOR 2019 According to the global marketing experts despite that other industries have had their ups and downs the beauty industry continues to defy gravity. Global researchers have identified four major trends that will continue to influence purchasing choices and that the fast-growing, young brands are taking advantage of:

Customisation and Personalisation: Using data and customer input to create products for a universe-of-one is a new form of luxury. Consumers are looking for something that is tailor-made for their specific needs. They believe their money can buy them something exclusive that is designed just for them. The customised, personalised approach will dominate the salon market, with a need to move away from predesign treatment plans. The above four trends were discussed in November in New York at an event called Beauty & Money where all the above trends were crystallised. It was attended by investors and young beauty companies to identify ways to collaborate and win a segment of APJ these growing consumer trends.

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SKINNUTRIENTS

DISCOVERING THE MOST POWERFUL NUTRIENTS THAT ACT AS A SKIN CATALYST By Zac Turner

IN THIS AGE of on-going research there is much we can learn about how various nutrients and ingredients can perform to improve the skin’s integrity, based on science, rather than anecdotal evidence. In this article Dr Zac Turner is presenting a comprehensive array of validated nutrients that can offer proven anti-ageing benefits, improve skin tone and elasticity, offer collagen support and assist in skin repair from UV damage.

GLUTATHIONE: 100 mg Glutathione, is a molecule found naturally in the body and is produced in the liver. It has antioxidant effects in addition to stimulating the immune system. Glutathione has been proven to protect against a wide variety of health problems. As the levels of glutathione begin to decrease with age, maintaining a proper level of glutathione will help you combat against free radicals and slow down the body’s oxidative ageing process.

Recent scientific research is bringing to light the benefits of several natural compounds that are proven to support health. However, as skin therapists you need to know the ones that offer proven benefit for skin health as well. I am therefore presenting a list of validated nutrients and their recommended doses for skin support.

LYCOPENE COMPLEX: 40 mg Lycopene, also has a dual antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effect in the skin. It protects against environmental agents that can clog pores and cause breakouts. Its greatest known contribution to skin health is that it prevents damage caused by the sun. This phytochemical is the pigment that gives tomatoes and other foods their pink/red colour.

ASTAXANTHIN: 12mg Astaxanthin is an antioxidant. As we know the role of antioxidant is to help reduce the impact of the natural process in our bodies called oxidation. Excessive oxidation is one of the primary factors that contribute to the ageing process. Astaxanthin is proven to slow the aging process of the cells in which it comes into contact with. The carotenoid is used to help protect the skin, reducing the effects of ageing, therefore keeping at optimal levels.

NICOTINAMIDE: 500 mg There is a great amount of new research supporting the health and skin benefits of nicotinamide, also known as niacinamide, which is a form of vitamin B3 that provides a wide array of improvements in the appearance of ageing facial skin. The vitamin has been proven to reduce fine lines and wrinkles, hyperpigmentation spots, red blitheness and yellowing of the skin. Studies confirm that taking nicotinamide reduces non-melanoma skin cancers in high-risk patients.

PYCNOGENOL: 100gm Pycnogenol is another interesting nutrient with strong scientific evidence for its benefit to human health and skin health. Pycnogenol is an extract of the bark from the French maritime pine and is standardised to 65-75% procyanidin compounds by weights. Pycnogenol has been proven to possess dual antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. It increases blood flow lowers inflammation levels in the skin which contribute to ageing.

BIOTIN: 5 mg Biotin, an enzymatic cofactor B-complex vitamin known as B7 and is a major component of nails, skin, and hair. The vitamin is used in treating people that have brittle nails, hair loss, and common (non-viral, non-bacterial, non-fungal) skin rashes. Maintaining adequate levels of biotin in the blood stream will improve the overall quality of the skin. Biotin’s role in skin health comes from the effects it has on fat metabolism.

PHYTOCERAMIDES: 400 mg Phytoceramides are a class of ceramide compounds that are proven to help retain moisture in the skin. Once in the blood stream and reaching the blood vessels of the skin, phytoceramides can help to ‘plump’ the skin and reduce fine lines and wrinkles.

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ZINC PICOLINATE: 12 mg Zinc Picolinate, a dietary form of zinc contributes to skin health by maintaining its integrity and structure. It does so by functioning as an immune booster; aiding in wound healing, helping to control acne and improving inflammatory conditions that come along with these conditions. Zinc Picolinate also helps regulating sebum production in addition to regulating how the immune system responds to bacteria.


AUSTRALIAN WILDERNESS COMPLEX: - 100 mg This is an amazing proprietary blend of Kakadu Plum 50%, Finger Lime 15%, Kangaroo Apple 15% and Tasmanian Pepper Berry 20%. The Australian Wilderness Complex is a blend of naturally-growing fruits, each being an antioxidant by nature and bringing its own unique qualities to make such a complex. The Kakadu Plum, Tasmanian Pepper Berry, and Kangaroo Apple are all rich in vitamin-C which helps firm the skin, helps fade dark spots, and it is even used by local tribes as an antibiotic, fighting bacteria and reducing swelling. The Finger Lime brings a high level of vitamin-E to the complex which is one of the most important antioxidants in cell protection and disease prevention.

SKIN FOOD (Skin Catalyst Forte) HYDROLYSED COLLAGEN: 10 mg Hydrolysed Collagen, means that we are taking collagen - the main structural protein found in the skin and breaking it down by a chemical reaction using water. Breaking these larger collagen molecules down into smaller peptides makes them easier to dissolve and later to be ingested. Once ingested they can quickly be used by our body to build more collagen where it is needed. This process will help reduce fine lines and wrinkles creating that more youthful appearance. PROLINE: 250 mg Proline, an amino acid that undergoes a variety of different chemical reactions in the body. However, proline is used in the chemical formation to create collagen. In conjunction with another amino acid lysine, the body uses the two to make not only collagen but also tendons, ligaments, and muscles of the heart. Collagen contains approximately 15% of proline. GLYCINE: 250 mg Glycine, also referred to as the anti-ageing amino acid, helps form new muscle as well as aids in recovery. It aids in cartilage loss and is used to synthesise creatine - a direct fuel source in the body. It's high concentration in the skin and connective tissues is vital for a youthful appearance. GLUCOSAMINE HCL: 100 mg Glucosamine hydrochloride, another form of glucosamine, assists in maintaining the elasticity and integrity of

connective tissues. Used to make a cushion like substance that surrounds joints as well as throughout the bodies skin creating a healthier and ‘plump’ looking hue. The compound has also been shown to help aid in those with osteoarthritis and psoriasis. KERATIN (Solubilised): 53.5 mg Keratin, is another protein in our bodies that supports the structure of the skin, nails, and hair. It promotes skin brightness and radiance through its natural antioxidant properties. Being solubilised helps the body absorb it more readily. Its high bioavailability means that it can rapidly start replenishing depleted keratin. This will increase the thickness of the epidermis-again contributing to reducing those fine lines and wrinkles. ALOE VERA: 50 mg Aloe vera, is a one of the oldest known plants to provide many amazing benefits for skin. From aiding in wound healing, fighting acne, and cleansing the skin. Also being an antioxidant it contains both vitamins A and C and is highly anti-inflammatory. Aloe vera is a must for someone wanting to get that perfect healthy glow. LACTOBACILLUS PLANTARUM (HY7714): 10b CFU Lactobacillus Plantarum (HY7714), do not let these big names scare you, this probiotic has anti-ageing benefits. Oral consumption of the probiotic has shown to increase skin hydration, reduce face wrinkles and improves elasticity. It also suppressed UVB-induced signal transaction in fibroblasts. LACTOBACILLUS PARACASEI NCC 2461 (ST11): 10b CFU Lactobacillus Paracasei NCC 2461 (ST11), once again don’t let the long name intimidate you. This probiotic is used to manage dandruff and restore a balanced scalp microbiome. As with L. Plantarum it is positively impacts the skin barrier and in turn increasing the skin’s immune system. While applying quality skincare can help protect and support the skin against environmental pollution, understanding the role of nutrients can also offer great support to improve skin tone and elasticity, while minimising the impact of oxidation can also help in preventing pre-mature ageing. APJ

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SKINRESEARCH

MALE AND FEMALE SKIN – A COMPARISON By Tina Viney

IF YOU do a quick comparison between women and men of the same age to view who looks older, from my observation, men seem to be ageing more prominently than women, however, they seem to age differently. Considering this fact, should men and women be treated with the same facial products or with the same salon treatments? Over the past decade many cosmetic brands are developing male-specific products as more men are seeking to have their own grooming and skincare range of products, but is this just a marketing ploy, or has male skin different physiological parameters to women and should their skin be treated differently? A recent literature review by an international group of physicians shows that the physiological skin parameters of hydration, transepidermal water-loss, sebum, microcirculation, pigmentation and thickness differ among men and women suggesting that treatment choices should differ as well. “Understanding the physiological, chemical, and biophysical characteristics of the skin helps us develop a proper approach for the management of skin diseases,” wrote the authors of a review that focuses on sex differences of skin. The review appears in the September issue of the International Journal of Women’s Dermatology. This was a comprehensive review, which included 57 studies and was led by Alireza Firooz, M.D. of the Centre for Research and Training in Skin Disease and Leprosy at Tehran University of Medical Sciences in Iran. The studies show that the skin parameters of hydration, transepidermal water-loss, sebum, microcirculation, pigmentation, and thickness are generally higher in men, but skin pH is higher in women. Studies like these that reveal information of sex-linked cutaneous differences are being carefully reviewed by product formulators in their development of female versus male-specific skincare. Furthermore, they are also reviewed for more appropriate dermatological treatments or cosmetic interventions. The study confirmed that there are established sex differences in anatomy, physiology, epidemiology and in many diseases. With regard to skin disorders, infectious diseases are presented more in men, but psychosomatic

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problems, pigmentary disorders, certain hair diseases, and autoimmune and allergic diseases are more common in women. In men, skin pigmentation and thickness are significantly higher, facial wrinkles are deeper, and facial sagging is more prominent in the lower eyelids, but there is no significant difference in skin elasticity between the sexes, the studies confirmed. The molecular mechanism that drives these differences remain to be defined, but knowing they exist and treating patients accordingly may improve treatment outcomes. Here is a summary of the key outcomes of this review: HYDRATION A healthy skin barrier protects against UV damage and other assaults, plus, it holds in moisture. Without adequate hydration the skin’s physical and mechanical properties are impaired. The review cites a 2013 German study by Luebberding et al. that shows young men tend to have high levels of stratum corneum hydration, but as the men aged beyond 40 years, the hydration decreased. Hydration on the forehead in both men and women beyond 70 years fell significantly. TRANSEPIDERMAL WATER LOSS While some studies reported comparable water barrier functions in both sexes, the 2013 study by  Luebberding et al. showed that in men younger than 50 years old, transepidermal water loss was significantly lower in men, but on the forehead, cheeks and neck, it was higher than that of women. SEBUM PRODUCTION Up until a 2012 study by Bailey et al., it was believed that sebum production between men and women was equal, but Bailey et al. described higher sebum levels in men on the face, except the forehead. However, Luebberding et al. reported sebum content increased slightly on the forehead with age, but progressively decreased in women. SKIN THICKNESS In 1975, Shuster et al. first documented the loss of skin collagen (which is associated with skin thinning) with age, particularly in women after 50 years. In men, however, it decreases equally over time. But the most recent study on skin thickness Dr. Firooz


and colleagues cited was in 2008 in which Mogensen et al. confirmed the results of a 2006 study by Gambichler et al. who found no differences in epidermal thickness among men and women. Their study was based on optical coherence tomography imaging. SKIN pH Men tend to have lower acidic levels according to a 2012 study by Bailey et al. which differs from a 1987 finding Zlotogorski and a 1991 study by Wilhelm et al. that showed no sex differences. SKIN ELASTICITY A 2012 study by Firooz et al. reported that females had slightly higher skin elasticity than men, but the findings were not statistically significant, which is in agreement with a 2012 report by Bailey et al. who found that women had higher skin elasticity, but only in the abdominal region. The 2014 Luebberding et al. study found that: The mechanical properties changed differently in men and woman over their lifetime and that female skin is less distensible but has a higher ability to recover after stretching in comparison with male skin. SKIN FRICTION A 2011 study by Zhu et al. showed a significant positive correlation between skin friction coefficient and stratum corneum hydration on the canthus and dorsal hand skin for women and on the forehead and dorsal hand skin for men. WRINKLES In 2013, Tsukahara et al. reported that among men and women between 65-75 years, women disproportionately had more wrinkles than men. MALE SKIN • Sebum content is higher and pores are larger •

Men tend to have impaired barrier function more than women

Skin is thicker than women

Male skin tends to be less hydrated

Facial sagging in men is more prominent in the lower eyelids

Fine lines more common than in women

The superior-orbital ridge (eyebrow) is more developed than in women

FEMALE SKIN • Skin collagen decreased with age more frequently than in men •

Skin pH is higher in women than men

Women tend to have less oily faces and necklines than men

Skin disorders due to psychosomatic problems are higher in women

Skin pigmentation higher in women but some studies show that the melanin index is higher in men

Autoimmune-related skin conditions are more common in women

Skin related allergic diseases are more common in women

Some skin malignancies may occur more often in women due to hormonal changes

Stratum corneum dehydration regulates epidermal proliferation, differentiation and inflammation. In sundamaged skin, this can negatively affect the forehead and hands, particularly in women.

Every man’s skin is different, and there is no ‘one size fits all’ approach to skincare, so a thorough skin analysis is needed. In terms of salon treatments, as male skin is generally thicker than female skin, exfoliation treatments are highly recommended, as are intensely hydrating treatments. Exfoliation is important for men, particularly for men with facial hair. Avoiding razor bumps and irritation while shaving or maintaining a beard is as easy as pie if you’re exfoliating regularly. Regular exfoliation not only helps decrease razor bumps but also helps prevent common issues that affect everyone, such as acne and dry patches. Hydration is also important for men’s skin. Although you have a thicker layer of skin on the surface, you aren’t automatically protected from water-loss caused by environmental factors. Maintaining a healthy pH balance and skin barrier function with hydrating products helps male skin stay smooth. Proper hydration also helps decrease the likelihood of irritation, redness, and any other skin issues. APJ

For a list of references, please contact the editor.

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SKINNUTRITION

Pomegranate Juice: The Healthiest Juice on the Planet? By Tina Viney

I HAVE ALWAYS had a fascination for those lovely round gems that are part of the pomegranate. Juicy with just enough tartness to make them interesting, they indeed make the perfect juice for a hot summer’s day.

The researchers ranked the antioxidant content of the juices (and other beverages) according to the following criteria: antioxidant potency, ability to inhibit LDL oxidation and total polyphenol content. 

There are currently over 400 scientific studies to support the benefits to health to the time-honoured pomegranate and ongoing research is constantly providing new evidence on how it can support health.

Here is how the juices were ranked in terms of their benefit:

While new research is coming to light the pomegranate has an illustrious history. It is considered as one of the earliest fruits that have been cultivated along with grapes, figs, olives, and dates somewhere between 4000 B. C. and 3000 B. C. abd pomegranate continue to be an emblem of fertility, rebirth, and health. Interesting enough the beverage comes from fruit seeds and in just small amounts, has been shown to make incredibly positive impacts on human health. How interesting, the juice actually comes from the pomegranate seeds and is loaded with impressive health benefits. Pomegranates have been shown to prevent and naturally treat everything from inflammation and high cholesterol to high blood pressure and hyperglycaemia. Pomegranate juice is an antioxidant powerhouse that’s said to even trump red wine and green tea. With proven anticancer fighting abilities as well as antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effects, it’s no wonder this fruit juice has such a great reputation. POMEGRANATE JUICE VS OTHER JUICES There are a lot of fruit juices that come from fruits that are easy to eat. I’m thinking of fruits like oranges or grapes. But pomegranates are unfortunately not so easy to eat at all. People are always wondering how to eat a pomegranate, how to cut a pomegranate and how to open a pomegranate. I highly encourage taking the time and effort to eat fresh pomegranates, but it’s also nice that pomegranate juice eliminates all that questioning and work. The juice definitely makes it easy to get the benefits of pomegranate on a more regular basis. A UCLA study recently ranked the top 10 healthiest juices and other beverages. Yes, you guessed right – the winner was the pomegranate juice. All of the fruit juices studied were rich in polyphenols, but pomegranate came out on top.

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Pomegranate juice

Concord grape juice

Blueberry juice

Black cherry juice

Açaí juice

Cranberry juice

Orange juice

Apple juice

Additionally, when it comes to antioxidant capacity, pomegranate juice was found to be at least 20 per cent greater than any of the other beverages tested. If you have a juice extractor, put it to good use and juice your own pomegranate juice. That way you will gain maximum benefits from its wonderful nutrients. If you are purchasing bottled pomegranate always reference to ensure is 100 per cent pure variety since it’s very common to find juice blends that only contain a small amount of pomegranate. Let’s look at how pure and potent pomegranate juice in small amounts might be much more than a tasty fruit-sourced beverage — it actually can be medicinal. MAJOR BENEFITS As I have stated above, the research is on-going however, here are the seven most reported health benefits of pomegranate juice. SUPPORTS THE BODY AGAINST CANCER I am always reluctant to talk about anything fighting cancer, but the studies here are overwhelming supportive of how pomegranate can help fight against cancer.


Polyphenols and other compounds found in pomegranate have also shown in scientific studies to have antiproliferative, pro-apoptotic and anti-inflammatory effects in prostate, lung, breast and other cancers. In simpler terms, this means that pomegranate has been shown to inhibit the spread of cancer cells, encourage the death of cancer cells and discourage inflammation, three major and vital aspects of successfully fighting against any cancer in the body. A 2014 study conducted by the University of Albany demonstrated how pomegranate extract can specifically inhibit the spread of MCF-7 breast cancer cells. Pomegranate juice has also shown itself to be especially helpful for prostate cancer. The results of the first clinical trial of pomegranate juice in patients with prostate cancer was published in the journal Clinical Cancer Researchin 2006. The subjects of this trial were men with prostate cancer who had already undergone surgery or radiation to treat their prostate cancer. These subjects were given eight ounces (one cup) of pomegranate juice daily until there was cancer progression. The researchers found that prostate-specific antigen (PSA) doubling time was significantly prolonged in the subjects taking the treatment. This is significant since PSA is a blood marker for prostate cancer and PSA doubling time is used to determine the life expectancy of a prostate cancer patient. So, the lower the PSA doubling time, the better the outlook. In 2012, another study found that pomegranate extract weakened human prostate cell proliferation in vitro. Combined, all this research shows pomegranate’s abilities as a cancer-fighting food. DECREASES HYPERTENSION Pomegranate juice has a high antioxidant capacity, and scientific research has demonstrated that it can help lower high blood pressure. A meta-analysis published in 2016 reviewed numerous studies of pomegranate juice and its effect on blood pressure. Overall, this metaanalysis concludes that there appears to be “consistent benefits of pomegranate juice consumption on blood pressure.” The researchers also add, “This evidence suggests it may be prudent to include this fruit juice in a heart-healthy diet.” BOOST HEART HEALTH Since pomegranate juice is so good for blood pressure, it’s not surprising that this delicious beverage is also excellent

for heart health. It contains antioxidants at higher levels than many other fruit juices, which is why it can be so helpful to the heart. Research published in Clinical Nutrition studied pomegranate juice consumption by patients with carotid artery stenosis, which is a narrowing of either of the two key arteries located in the front of the neck, through which blood from the heart goes to the brain. Participants who consumed pomegranate juice lowered their blood pressure by more than 12 per cent and had a 30 per cent reduction in atherosclerotic plaque. Participants who did not drink the juice actually saw their atherosclerotic plaque increase by nine per cent. Overall, the study found that pomegranate juice consumption reduced plaque in the carotid artery as well as lowered blood pressure and LDL oxidation. RELIEVES OSTEOARTHRITIS Osteoarthritis is among the most prevalent forms of musculoskeletal disorders that lead to joint degeneration. Studies have suggested that pomegranate juice may play a protective role by decreasing cartilage inflammation. This protective ability has been attributed to the juice’s high antioxidant content. A 2016 study looked at the effects of pomegranate juice on 38 patients with osteoarthritis in their knees. Some of the patients drank pomegranate juice for six weeks while the other patients drank a control substance. The researchers found that the consumption of pomegranate juice not only improved physical function and stiffness, but it also increased antioxidant status while decreasing breakdown cartilage enzymes. IMPROVES MEMORY Studies have shown that pomegranate juice can be helpful when it comes to improving memory. The polyphenols found in the juice have been shown to be neuroprotective. One 2013 study randomly assigned subjects to drink eight ounces of either pomegranate juice or a flavour-matched placebo drink for a total of four weeks. The subjects were older with age-associated memory complaints. The researchers found that the 28 subjects with memory complaints who drank one cup of pomegranate juice per day significantly improved markers of both verbal and visual memory. The researchers conclude that pomegranate juice

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appears to increase memory function through task-related increases in functional brain activity.  There is some scientific evidence from animal studies that pomegranate can also help fight Alzheimer’s disease, making this juice a beneficial brain food. HIGH IN ANTIOXIDANTS Pomegranate juice is loaded with health-promoting and disease-fighting antioxidants, and pomegranates are some of the top high-antioxidant foods. The juice of pomegranates contains a tannin called punicalagin as well as polyphenols, anthocyanins, ellagic acid derivatives and hydrolysable tannins. These are all very powerful antioxidants. A study published in the Journal of Agricultural and Food Chemistry actually found that commercial pomegranate juices showed an antioxidant activity three times higher than red wine and green tea. The antioxidants were actually higher in commercial juice made from the whole pomegranate than in juice from the seeds alone. This is most likely due to the fact the rind of the pomegranate also gets processed in the commercial pomegranate juices, which adds additional antioxidants, specifically, tannins. FIGHTS INFLAMMATION Inflammation has been found to be associated with just about every health condition. Pomegranates and pomegranate juice are known to have potent anti-inflammatory abilities. A 2013 in vivo study published in Evidence-based Complementary and Alternative Medicine demonstrated pomegranate juice’s significant anti-inflammatory activity in the gut. In vivo studies performed on the whole fruit, juice, peel and flowers of pomegranate also revealed anti-ulcer effects in a variety of animal models. Another study conducted with type II diabetics also showed pomegranate juice’s ability to lower inflammation. Researchers found that 250 mls of pomegranate juice per day for 12 weeks lowered the inflammatory markers in the diabetic subjects. Specifically, the intake of juice lowered hsCRP by 32 percent and interleukin-6 by 30 percent.   THE SKIN BENEFITS OF POMEGRANATE One of the reasons that pomegranate is good for the skin is because it contains a high source of vitamin C, which research has proven is effective in treating dull and dry skin. Application of pomegranate seed oil is also known to help eczema and psoriasis conditions due to its anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties. According to Dr Kristie Leong several recent studies have also shown pomegranate’s ability to improve wound healing, resulting in faster repair of skin cuts and scrapes. It also appears to play a positive role in the repair of skin damaged due to sun exposure and ageing. Extracts of pomegranate are thought to exert their positive effects on skin ageing by extending the life of fibroblasts, the cells responsible for producing collagen and elastin. Collagen and elastin are the components that give strength and support to the skin. When collagen and elastin fibres break down, the skin develops laxity, resulting in the appearance of wrinkles and jowls. Fortunately, pomegranate’s skin benefits may help to retard this process. Another recent study showed that pomegranate seed oil

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stimulated the production of collagen, resulting in a mild thickening of the epidermis and dermis of the skin. It also appeared to prevent the breakdown of collagen fibres. This suggests that pomegranate oil may boost the ability of skin to repair itself by regenerating the supporting collagen structure of the skin. Other studies have shown that pomegranate seed extract applied to the skin may reduce the formation of some forms of skin cancer, suggesting that its antioxidant capabilities may be responsible for some of pomegranate’s skin benefits. POMEGRANATE JUICE PRECAUTIONS AND DRUG INTERACTIONS Most people don’t experience negative side effects when they consume pomegranate juice. However, it’s possible to be allergic to pomegranates. It’s important for everyone not to overdo it on any juice, including pomegranate, because of the sugar content, but diabetics should be especially cautious. Speak with your doctor before making pomegranate juice a part of your diet if you’re diabetic. If you tend to have low blood pressure, it’s important to know that drinking pomegranate juice may lower blood pressure a small amount. Since pomegranate can affect blood pressure, it’s best to avoid pomegranate products at least two weeks before any surgery. Pomegranate juice may also interact with medications similarly to grapefruit juice, making some medications less effective. Speak with your doctor before consuming pomegranate juice if you have any ongoing health issues or take any of the following medications: •

ACE inhibitors, including Benazepril (Lotensin), Captopril (Capoten), Enalapril (Vasotec), Fosinopril (Monopril), Lisinopril (Zestril) and Ramipril (Altace)

Blood pressure medications

Statins used to lower cholesterol, including Atorvastatin (Lipitor), Fluvastatin (Lescol), Lovastatin (Mevacor), Pravastatin (Pravachol), Rosuvastatin (Crestor) and Simvastatin (Zocor)

Blood thinners (anticoagulant medication) like Warfarin (Coumadin)

CONCLUSION It’s true that pomegranate seeds provide you with all the benefits of pomegranate juice but with less sugar and more fibre. I definitely encourage you to put in the effort to eat fresh pomegranate seeds when you can. However, I know that realistically there is a lot of work that goes into getting at those little ruby red morsels — that’s when pomegranate juice comes in. Pomegranate juice makes it so easy to get the benefits of pomegranate quickly and regularly. Just make sure you always stick with 100 per cent pure pomegranate juice in small amounts. That way you won’t overdo it when it comes to the natural sugar found in the juice, but you will get a great dose of key nutrients like vitamin K, potassium and folate. There is sufficient scientific evidence to confirm that pomegranate juice really is quite magical when it comes to our health.  It also beats out a lot of other fruit juices (and common beverages) for the title of “healthiest fruit juice.” APJ

For a list of references, please contact the editor.


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SCIENTIFIC NEWS In each issue of the journal, Terry Everitt conveys a few items of scientific interest. In italics are his thoughts on the subject matter of the research study.

the TEMPO/TEMPOH couple protects organic molecules from oxidation by establishing an efficient reductive catalytic cycle. This catalytic cycle provides a new understanding

USE OF IPL MONOTHERAPY IN DARKER SKIN FOR ACNE

ARTIFICIAL ANTIOXIDANT FOUND TO BE BETTER THAN VITAMIN E Naturally-derived antioxidants have become the 'it' health ingredient to look for in food, however a wellknown artificial antioxidant termed TEMPO is up to 100 times more powerful than nature's best and could help counteract everything from skin damage to Alzheimer's Disease. Free radicals are a natural part of human metabolism; however, the body’s natural supply of antioxidants is frequently inadequate to cope with the levels of free radicals produced. The authors were surprised to learn that TEMPO was up to 100 times faster at converting free radicals than vitamin E in fatty environments. The data show that in the presence of chain-transfer agents, which are common in lipophilic environments,

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of the efficacy of the antioxidant capability of TEMPO in nonaqueous systems and its potential to act as a chemoprotective against radical damage. TEMPO or 2,2,6,6-Tetramethylpiperidin1oxyl has been known since 1960s. Various modifications of the base TEMPO have resulted in differing names being used for these substances. One reason that TEMPO is not well known is its cost in large production. Much study has occurred with TEMPO and yet, all remain laboratory findings that have not been able to replicate into a consumer product due to the cost. Baschieri, A. Valgimigli, L. Gabbanini, S. DiLabio, G. RomeroMontalvo, E. Amorati. R. (2018). Extremely Fast Hydrogen Atom Transfer between Nitroxides and HOO· Radicals and Implication for Catalytic Coantioxidant Systems. Journal of the American Chemical Society, 140(32): 10354 DOI: 10.1021/jacs.8b06336 APJ

One hundred female patients aged 21 to 30 years with Fitzpatrick Skin Types IV to VI were enrolled in this study. IPL therapy was performed each week for a total of six weeks, using a cut-off filter of 530 nm to 1,200 nm wavelengths in continuous mode with 7.0J/cm² fluence with continuous mode with three milliseconds of pulse width. Six passes were performed over the entire face followed by six passes of two subpulses (double mode) of 14.2J/cm² (7.1J/ cm²+7.1J/cm²) fluence over the lesion only. Cooling was achieved with the application of ice packs for 15 minutes immediately after the treatment and followed by the application of topical mometasone furoate 0.01% cream and broad-spectrum sunscreen. Some patients developed erythema, however all receded within a week with no long-term or severe adverse events. Eighty per cent of the patients involved in this study reported a significant reduction in lesion count compared to baseline of their grades 3 and 4 of acne vulgaris.


Research and Scientific New Developments

IPL reduces the inflammation and sebaceous gland size which in turn decreases the acne outcome. The study shows a safe and effective monotherapy for acne vulgaris. Lesion count decreases around the third treatment and continues to approximately 12 weeks post treatment, until the acne is cleared. IPL is effective as it provides photothermal, photochemical, and photoimmunological effects. It is interesting that in using continuous mode, there was not the hyperpigmentation and scarring on skin of colour that is somewhat common when single - or burst-pulse modes are used. I would advise to be continuously careful when using IPL on skin of colour. Knowledge of TRT is vital, along with fluence and pulse mode to be safe for each client. Deshpande, A.J. (2018).  Efficacy and safety evaluation of high-density intense pulsed light in the treatment of grades II and IV acne vulgaris as monotherapy in dark-skinned women of child bearing age. Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology, 11(4):43-48.

Combination peels involved layering of two different acids. The most frequent complications were crusting (2.3%), post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (1.9%), and erythema (1.9%). Not surprisingly, skin type VI had higher odds of experiencing an adverse event.

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As some of you may know, I began my chemical peeling career in the early 1990s and treated several African Americans. You do have to know what you are doing it is true, but when performed in an appropriate manner, superficial chemical peels have a relatively low complication rate in darker skin types. One trick that I always used and repeated in this study, was the use of iced water to neutralise the acid and to immediately cool the skin. This of course reduced erythema and inflammation, thus reducing the risk of having these as adverse effects. Mind you, I also used a low-level cortisol cream post-treatment for darker skins. If you are going to peel dark skin, then

NMF IS ESSENTIAL IN PREVENTING ATOPIC DERMATITIS We know that epidermal deficiency of filaggrin and the derived natural moisturising factors (NMFs), is associated with increased risk of atopic dermatitis (AD). This study explored the effect of selected exogenous skin stressors on NMF and skin cytokine levels in healthy epidermis of 40 adults. Their skin was exposed to hard, soft and chlorinated water, 0.5% sodium lauryl sulfate, house dust mites, cat allergen, staphylococcal enterotoxin B (SEB), cooling and histamine.

CHEMICAL PEELING OF FITZPATRICK PHOTOTYPES III-VI A five-year single centre retrospective analysis was performed by a dermatologist of 473 chemical peel treatments on 134 patients with skin types III-VI. The peels used included 35%-70% Glycolic Acid, 88% Lactic Acid, 40% Malic Acid, 10%-30% Salicylic Acid and 15% Trichloroacetic Acid.

be sure you know exactly what you are doing and how to react when things may not go according to plan. Vemula, S. Maymone, M. Secemsky, E. Widjajahakim, R. Patzelt, N. Saade, D. and Vashi, N. (2018). Assessing the safety of superficial chemical peels in darker skin: A retrospective study. Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, 79(3): 508-513. APJ

All allergens led to a decrease in the NMF with hard water leading to increased levels of interleukin (IL)-4, interferon (IFN)-c and IL-10. Exposure to house dust mites and SEB led to a significant decrease in NMFs after 24 hours, and increase in IFN-c, IL-2 and IL-4. The study concludes that NMFs levels are decreased along with increased secretion of various skin cytokines in healthy individuals. These decreases make atopic dermatitis worse.

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SCIENTIFIC NEWS It is known that once AD is present, cytokines such as interleukin (IL)-4, IL-13, IL-17A, IL-22, IL-25, IL-31 and tumour necrosis factor (TNF)-a may further downregulate epidermal filaggrin expression, in both lesioned and non-lesioned skin. Keeping the NMF in a healthy state is one of our treatment goals and this study sheds light on what may be happening to the NMF. The study data highlight environmental factors that might play a role in AD pathophysiology. Most surprising perhaps is that house dust caused so much damage to the skin. Even more reason for careful cleaning (not only of the house, yet also) of the skin. Engebretsen K.A. Kezic, S. Jakasa, I. Hedengran, A. Linneberg, ASkov, L. Johansen, J. and Thyssen, J. (2018). Effect of atopic skin stressors on natural moisturizing factors and cytokines in healthy adult epidermis. British Journal of Dermatology, 179: 679688. APJ

some cells that are mutated continue to grow, however they interact with other mutated cells competing to survive. These for a better title are termed ‘wild cell types’. The authors found that low-dose UV light drives p53 mutant clone expansion in the short term, yet prolonged UV exposure generates mutant clones that may outcompete p53 mutant cells with the result being the epidermis adapts to the mutant clones, slowly returning toward normal, rather than growing cancerous cells.

Murai, K. Skrupskelyte, G. Piedrafita, G. Hall, M. Kostiou, V. Ong, S. Nagy, T. Cagan, A. Goulding, D. Klein, A. Hall, B. Jones, P. (2018). Epidermal Tissue Adapts to Restrain Progenitors Carrying Clonal p53 Mutations. Cell Stem Cell, 23(5), 687699. DOI: 10.1016/j.stem.2018.08.017 APJ

These results suggest multiple mechanisms restrain the proliferation of p53 progenitors, thereby maintaining epidermal integrity. The authors hypothesise that individual clone fates would then depend on the chance acquisition of additional mutations and the competitive fitness of neighbouring mutant clones. First, the study was on mice, so it cannot directly corollate to humans. The mechanisms underpinning the

CAN P. ACNE PROVIDE ITS OWN VACCINE?

SKIN IS A BATTLEFIELD FOR MUTATIONS Normal human epidermis harbours p53 mutant clones, very few of which form tumours and this study provided clues as to why. Why do mutated cells not all grow into cancerous tumours? Cells get damaged in various ways and the p53 protein induces apoptosis if the damage is not repaired. This study shows that

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adaptation of p53 cells remain to be determined. Understanding how mutant progenitor clones interact is key to understanding not only epidermal physiology, but also the formulation of rational approaches to prevent malignant transformation. While it’s early days, this opens a field of study that will show how we can keep and nurture these ‘wild type cells’ to promote competitive interactions to inhibit other cells that lead to carcinogenesis.

It is not news that Propionibacterium acnes is implicated in acne. While it is an opportunistic skin bacterium, generally, it resides on the skin and in the hair follicle without causing any problems. The p. acnes produce a number of toxins that cause the problem – one of these toxins is the CAMP (Christie-Atkins-Munch-Petersen) factor. The CAMP factor acts as a pore forming toxin that induces cytolysis and cytokine secretion via activation of the inflammasome within the follicle. The p. acne is anaerobic in nature and this study found that the anaerobic culture of the acne lesion led to an approximately 1.5-fold increase in the expression of CAMP factor. The CAMP factor was genetically altered in the laboratory and the result was that


Research and Scientific New Developments

mutation of CAMP factor significantly diminishes P. acnes colonisation and inflammation. The secretion of p. acnes rather than the p. acnes itself is known to cause a decrease in cytoplasmic potassium, which in turn triggers the formation of the inflammasome, leading to caspase-1 activation. These findings indicate that inflammation and cytolysis occur together in the damaged tissue. With the identification of the CAMP factor 2 being essential for the inflammation response, the mutation of this factor abolished the inflammatory response caused by P. acnes. This moves closer to the use of a ‘vaccine’ for acne. Wang, Y. Hata, T. Tong, Y. Kao, M. Zouboulis, C. Gallo, R. Huang, C. (2018). The Anti-Inflammatory Activities of Propionibacterium acnes CAMP Factor-Targeted Acne Vaccines. Journal of Investigative Dermatology, 138(11): 2355-2364. doi: 10.1016/j. jid.2018.05.032 APJ

of the digital vessels usually triggered by exposure to cold or stress). Doctors injected each toe with 2mL of Botulinum toxin A, a total of 10 units in each patient. Six weeks later, all three patients reported an improvement in cold intolerance, colour change and pain, with two reporting a reduction in frequency and severity of Raynaud’s attacks, as well as a quicker recovery time. No great surprise here as it is thought via previous studies, that Botox causes vasodilation via the inhibition of sympathetic neuronal transmission. Blocking the release of norepinephrine and other vasoconstrictive substances causes vasodilation at the neuromuscular junction of smooth muscle. Obviously larger controlled trials are needed to investigate its use in toes of Raynaud’s patients, for which there is currently no local treatment. Dhaliwal, K. Griffen, M. Denton,

THE BENEFITS OF PROBIOTICS MAY NOT BE SO CLEAR CUT Consuming these probiotic bacteria can bolster the gut’s microbiome, allegedly enhancing everything from digestion to brain function. But regardless of what shape or size these probiotic supplements come in, they appear to have one thing in common—many people simply don’t benefit from them, and in some specific cases, they may do harm.

THE NOVEL USE OF BOTULINUM TOXIN A FOR THE TREATMENT OF RAYNAUD’S PHENOMENON IN TOES A very small case study of three patients, with Raynaud’s (a vasospastic condition

C. Butler, P. (2018). The novel use of botulinum toxin A for the treatment of Raynaud’s phenomenon in the toes. British Medical Journal Case Reports: published online 9 March 2018. Retrieved 10 August 2018 from http://casereports.bmj.com/ content/2018/bcr-2017-219348.full. pdf APJ

21 volunteers were given a mix of the antibiotic ciprofloxacin and metronidazole at standard dosages for a period of seven days, simulating the kind of treatment often used clinically for GI ailments from Crohn’s disease to diverticulitis. Patients were then separated into three groups. One group simply let their own microbiomes recover naturally, the second took generic probiotics, and the third was given a healthy dose of their own bacterial biome, which had been collected before the antibiotics use and re-administered via an autologous faecal microbiome transplant (aFMT).

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SCIENTIFIC NEWS The last group saw a full reversal of antibiotics effect. Reseeded with their own faecal material, the patients’ microbiomes returned to normal in just a few days. But those taking probiotics had a very different reaction. Generic probiotics did well at colonising the gut, which makes sense since the indigenous

Suez, J. Zmora, N. ZilbermanSchapira, G. Halpern, Z. Segal, E. Elinav, E. et al. (2018). PostAntibiotic Gut Mucosal Microbiome Reconstitution Is Impaired by Probiotics and Improved by Autologous FMT. Cell, 174(6): 14061423. DOI: 10.1016/j.cell.2018.08.047

the ulcers grew healthy skin within 18 days. Over time, the epithelia expanded and connected to the surrounding skin, even in large ulcers. At three and six months later, the generated cells behaved like healthy skin cells in several molecular, genetic and cellular tests. APJ

While healing deep ulcers on mice, it remains a long way to replicate this in humans and of course more studies are needed to optimise the technique and begin testing it in additional ulcer models. Yet it remains a remarkable achievement. What the researcher have done is to make skin where there was no skin to start with. Kurita, M. Araoka, T. Hishida, T. O’Keefe, D. Takahashi, Y. Sakamoto, A. Sakurai, M. Suzuki, K. Wu, J. Yamamoto, M. Hernandez-Benitez, R. Ocampo, A. Reddy, P. Shokhirev, M. Magistretti, P. Delicado, E. Eto, H. Harii, K. Belmonte. J. (2018). In vivo reprogramming of wound-resident cells generates skin epithelial tissue. Nature, 561: 243–247; DOI: 10.1038/s41586-018-0477-4 APJ

microbiome was at least partially wiped out by antibiotics, but the probiotics significantly prohibited the natural biome from recovering and returning to its natural state. Even six months after the treatment, these patients’ natural biomes had not fully recovered, suggesting offthe-shelf replacement bacteria aren’t a great substitute for the wider diversity of natural microbiome. A probiotic has maybe seven or eight strains and the literature supports the benefits of them, however the gut has an entire rainforest that’s being affected in different ways by different antibiotics, and you can’t just patch that up by giving a probiotic. Diversity does seem to be a key to its successes, and a couple of strains in a probiotic is not going to help much. Many think that taking a probiotic for a health issue will help, and while it may not harm, it may not be of much help.

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RESEARCHERS TURN OPEN WOUNDS INTO SKIN Scientists at the Salk Institute have developed a technique to directly convert the cells in an open wound into new skin cells. The approach relies on reprogramming the cells to a stem-cell-like state and could be useful for healing skin damage and to countering the effects of skin ageing. Epithelial tissues were generated by converting one cell type, mesenchymal cells to basal keratinocytes. After much trial and error, they identified four ‘reprogramming factors’ (RNA molecules) that were involved in defining the distinct identity of the basal keratinocytes. When the team topically treated skin ulcers on mice with the four factors,

ULTRAVIOLET RADIATION INDEX Australian Radiation Protection and Nuclear Safety Agency (ARPANSA)


Research and Scientific New Developments

has released the Ultraviolet radiation index, a chart shows the ultraviolet radiation index throughout the day. The ultraviolet radiation monitoring network was upgraded in 2017 to produce a more robust and flexible network which is now shown daily. The charts show both the predictive and the real time UV with the charts using the location settings on the device or browser to show information from the nearest location. If the UV index is 3 or more it is recommended that sun protective clothing, a hat, sunglasses, sunscreen and seek shade is used. The index is available at https://www. arpansa.gov.au/our-services/ monitoring/ultraviolet-radiationmonitoring/ultraviolet-radiation-in dex?fbclid=IwAR14iuskCadLmLt8X1 3F9_T0cvtGmfTCT9Cbuyfop5QhU_ fQPuGIpH0Jb1g This is a worthwhile site to constantly be aware of and the detailing of the ultraviolet light exposure. This would be a great marketing tool to have to reinforce your sun safe messages – have it showing on a monitor, so your clients can see for themselves how much sun damage they

will incur without your trusteed advice.

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MEDICARE BENEFITS SCHEDULE (MBS) THAT IS EFFECTIVE AS OF 1ST NOVEMBER 2018 Many changes came into effect November 1st regarding Medicare. From what a General Practitioner to a Plastic and Reconstructive Surgeon and a whole lot in between can charge for various procedures and tests have changed. This will impact rebates and health fund coverage for patients with certain item numbered procedures, so expect that, dependant on what you are having via a doctor, charges may increase due to the Medicare benefit being withdrawn. Some MBS item numbers are being abolished altogether, while others will have a tighter eligibility criterion, particularly involving plastic surgery.

been covered by MBS or private health cover, some areas of plastic surgery have been covered, which is now changed. If your child needs otoplasty then get it done before they turn 18 and for a blepharoplasty, an optometrist or ophthalmologist will need to confirm that your excess eyelid skin obstructs your vision, but you will not get a rebate if this independent confirmation is not achieved. The criteria for the removal and replacement of breast implants have changed making it harder to fall under an MBS rebate. These are just a few of the changes regarding plastic surgery. You can access the files on the Medical Benefits Schedules at http://www.mbsonline.gov.au/ internet/mbsonline/publishing.nsf/ Content/Downloads-201811 APJ

While cosmetic surgery has never

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TIPS FOR BETTER BUSINESS

MARKETING YOUR BRAND ON A SHOESTRING BUDGET Building a business from scratch is a daunting challenge. For any of us who have started a business or worked in a start-up environment, this is no secret. Start-ups are often competing with much bigger, wellentrenched businesses and this means long hours, creativity, and a massive budget are needed to steal market share and successfully grow. Long hours and creativity can be achieved no matter your circumstances, but not every new business is able to rely on a massive marketing budget. In the case where resources are scarce, which is not unusual for a new business, how can you work to build your brand effectively? Two brands that are doing an exceptional job in this regard are branded.me and Earhoox. branded.me is a personal-branding platform that makes it easy to build a personal website in minutes. Earhoox makes a product that fits around traditional earbuds to make them more comfortable for consumers. Based on their success, here are three ways to grow your brand organically: 

1. Focus on product, not messaging Organic growth requires a strong product or service that people will speak about positively. Instead of focusing on catchy

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ways to promote your brand, focus on service development so that your offering provides real, unique value to consumers. Applying a perfectionist’s mentality to this process will yield a product or service you can be proud of, which in turn will lead to users talking about it. Spending money is often easier than spending time, but the results will reflect how much effort is put into your services. Branded. me has realised exceptional results from this approach.

2. Cultivate brand evangelists To grow organically, brands have to cultivate a group of consumers willing to push the product/service to their respective communities. Brand evangelists spread the word about the product to a wider audience and their voices tend to be more powerful and credible than the voice of a brand itself. According to Nielsen, 68 per cent of consumers trust consumer opinions online, compared with only 48 per cent who trust advertisements on search engines, or social media platforms. However, word of mouth is also very powerful for our industry. Approach neighbouring businesses that are servicing the kind of client you want to attract and offer them one of your treatments for free. If they love your services, then set up a mutual referral system and also reward them for any referrals to provide them with an incentive, such as “send me five clients that will book with me and receive a free

treatment.” Also, don’t forget to reward your clients as well. Once cosmetic tattooist was offering $100 voucher toward their next treatment to any of her clients who referred someone to her.

3. Make sharing easy for consumers While not all consumers of your brand will become true evangelists, if your product is strong you can still mobilize them to share with their communities. How? Well, you have to remove all friction in the sharing process. Make it as easy as possible for the consumer to share on their social networks. This can be done through social sharing widgets on the website, pre-populated tweets and social postings so that users are prompted with language that best positions the brand while creating less work for them. branded.me is fully integrated with LinkedIn, Google, and other platforms. When a user creates and publishes a site, they are prompted with the option to invite friends to receive a free month of the premium subscription. Many people are naturally happy to share good products, but offering incentives then makes it that much more enticing. According to CEO Nick Macario, “It always starts with the product. Building a good product and then good referral-based solutions to make it easy for happy users to share is important. That’s the core of our organic-growth model.” APJ


Business & Legislation, New Tools and Research Outcome

TEN KEY WAYS TO BUILD A BRAND THAT WILL DEFINE YOUR SMALL BUSINESS Branding is just as important for small businesses as it is for big names. Indeed, many corporate brands try to look more like small firms in order to appeal to consumers that prefer to support independent brands. Dan Einzig of agency Mystery explains how to develop your own brand identity Many small business owners I talk to already understand that branding is essential to their business, but a surprisingly high number of them don't really know why. They recognise the link between successful businesses and strong branding, and aspire to build a brand that emulates similar success for themselves. And they understand that branding is not just a logo, but also how their business is perceived externally. But too few realise that successful brands have this branding at the heart of the business. So much so that in many ways you could almost substitute the word brand for business. Branding is a way of defining your business to yourself, your team and your external audiences. It could be called the business' “identity�, but only on the understanding that it embodies the core of what the business is and its values, not just what it looks and sounds like. Customers of all sorts of businesses are so savvy today that they can see through most attempts by companies to gloss, spin or charm their way to sales. The benefits that a strategically defined brand can bring are the same as when people fall in love with each other. When customers connect emotively,because they share the same values and beliefs of a brand, it leads to higher sales and better brand differentiation. It also leads to loyalty, advocacy and can even protect your price in times when competitors rely on promotional discounts to drive sales. It can also give you the ideal platform from which to extend your offering or range. Here are ten tips on how to successfully implement branding for your business:

1. Start by defining your brand

Review the product or service your

business offers, pinpoint the space in the market it occupies and research the emotive and rational needs and concerns of your clients. Your brand character should promote your business, connect with your client base and differentiate you in the market.

2. When building your brand, think of it as a person Every one of us is an individual whose character is made up of beliefs, values and purposes that define who we are and who we connect with. Our personality determines how we behave in different situations, how we dress and what we say. Of course, for people it's intuitive and it's rare that you even consider what your own character is, but when you're building a brand it's vital to have that understanding.

3. Consider what is driving your business What does it believe in, what is its purpose and who are its brand heroes. These things can help establish your emotive brand positioning and inform the identity and character for brand communications.

4. Aim to build long-term relationships with your clients Don't dress up your offering and raise expectations that result in broken promises, create trust with

honest branding - be clear who your business is and be true to the values that drive it every day.

5. Speak to your clients with a consistent tone of voice It will help reinforce the business' character and clarify its offering so clients are aware exactly what to expect from your product or service.

6. Don't repeat the same message in the same way over and over again Alternatively, aim to make your key messages work together to build a coherent identity.

7. Don't try to mimic the look of chains or big brands Try and carve out your own distinctive identity. There is a big consumer trend towards independent establishments, and several chains are in fact trying to mimic an independent feel to capture some of that market. Truly independent business owners can leverage their status to attract clients who are looking for something more original and authentic, that aligns with how they feel about themselves.

8. Be innovative, bold and daring - stand for something you believe in Big brands are encumbered by large layers of bureaucracy,

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preventing them from being flexible and reacting to the ever-changing needs of their customers. Those layers of decision-makers can make it hard for them to be daring with their branding. As a smaller business, use your freedom for flexibility to your advantage. It will allow you to stand out from the competition.

9. Always consider your branding when communicating with clients Don't lose your pride, or dilute your brand positioning with indiscriminate discounting. Try offering greater value with extras as rewards, rather than slashing prices. Promotions are an opportunity to reinforce your brand mission.

10. The old way of stamping your logo on everything won't cut it The future of branding is fluid and engaging - respect your customers' intelligence by not giving everything away up front. Generate some intrigue and allow them to unearth more about your brand for themselves. This is the way to foster ambassadors who revel in telling other people what they have discovered. APJ

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MARKETING VS SALES – DO YOU KNOW THE DIFFERENCE? Of course, marketing and sales are both aimed at increasing revenue. They are so closely intertwined that people often don’t realise the difference between the two. Indeed, in small organisations, the same people typically perform both sales and marketing tasks. Nevertheless, marketing is different from sales and as the business grows, the roles and responsibilities become more specialised. Furthermore, some people can be amazing at marketing, but hopeless at sales, so it does pay to know the difference as they require different skillsets. Let’s compare the two: MARKETING Marketing is the systematic planning, implementation and control of business activities to bring together buyers and sellers. The approach involves a broad range of activities to help sell products or services and build client relationships, etc. A marketing person will help determine future needs and has a strategy in place to meet those needs for the long-term success of the business. They are good at establishing the overall picture to promote, distribute and fulfil clients’ wants and needs.

Marketing shows how to reach the clients and build long-lasting relationships. They are also excellent at establishing marketing targets, the construction of a brand identity so that it becomes easily associated with needsfulfilment. Marketing skills have the ability to also analyse a market, identify distribution channels, competitive products and sales tracking. They are usually good at public relations, and defining the strategies for excellent client service and satisfaction. They provide the pull for client attraction and they usually are committed to a long-term plan. SALES A sale is defined as a transaction between two parties where the buyer receives goods or services in exchange for money. The success of a sales person will lie in their ability to make the client demand match the product or service that the company is currently offering and fulfil sales volume. This transaction is usually handled one-on-one and requires the ability to persuade the client that what they are offering will fulfil their needs. Successful outcomes require a level of gentle push to assist the client to agree to the transaction. It is by far more confronting than marketing. However, selling is a result of successful marketing. Sales is the strategy of


Business & Legislation, New Tools and Research Outcome

meeting needs in an opportunistic, individual method, driven by human interaction. There is no premise of brand identity, longevity or continuity. It’s simply the ability to meet a need at the right time. It is a short-term strategy that requires closure and a decision to be made. While marketing is a very necessary skill to a business, it is more the preparation ground for a sales transaction, because without this exchange a business cannot survive.

The Mission Statement concentrates on the present - it defines the type of client, critical processes and it informs you about the desired level of performance. The Vision Statement on the other hand focuses on the future - it is a source of inspiration and motivation. Often it describes not just the future of the organisation, but the future of the industry or society in which the organisation hopes to effect change. Let’s look at each one individually: MISSION STATEMENT A Mission Statement talks about HOW you will get to where you want to be. It defines the purpose and the primary objects related to your client needs and team values. It answers the question “What do we do?” It talks about the present leading to the future. A Mission Statement lists the broad goals for which the organisation’s success. Its prime audience is the leadership team and stakeholders. It defines the purpose and values of the organisation: Who is the organisation’s primary “clients” (stakeholders) and what are the responsibilities of the organisation towards the clients?

WHAT IS THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN A VISION AND A MISSION STATEMENT? Every business or organisation is required to summarise their goals and objectives and this is usually done through mission and vision statements. Both of these serve different purposes for a business, but are often confused with each other. While a mission statement describes what a company wants to do now, a vision statement outlines what a company wants to be in the future.

and aligned with the business’s values and culture. APJ

VISION STATEMENT A Vision statement outlines WHERE you want to be. Communicates both the purpose and values of your business. It answers the question, “Where do we aim to be?” A vision statement talks about the future. It lists where you see yourself some years from now. It inspires you to give your best. It shapes your understanding of why you are working here. As your organisation evolves, you might feel tempted to change your vision. However, mission or vision statements explain your organisation’s foundation, so change should be kept to a minimum. Where do we want to be going forward? When do we want to reach that stage? How do we want to do it? It offers clarity, describing a bright future to aspire to. The vision statement needs to be inspirational

THE PUROSE OF THE MISSION STATEMENT AND THE VISION STATEMENT The purpose of the mission statement is to guide the day-to-day operations and decision-making of the organisation. It helps in tactical planning and “rallying the troops” around a common near-to-mediumteam goals. It helps staff and management get to the same page on what they should do and how they should do it. On the other hand, the vision statement is in a sense loftier. It outlines the worldview of the organisation and why it exists. Its objective is to attract the right staff and the right clients who believe in the vision of the organisation.

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BUSINESS AND EMPLOYEE DEVELOPMENT STRATEGY Employee development is a human resource function in which employees are encouraged to increase their basic skills and obtain additional career development training. This development is often used to increase job satisfaction and retention. Employee development is commonly offered as an employee benefit and is generally used to recruit and retain highly skilled workers. While all of these aspects of employee development are vital to the human resources strategy, it is essential to consider each as a tool for overall business development. Significance In a rapidly changing world, employees and businesses alike must take steps to remain competitive. Employees must develop marketable skills to give themselves an edge in the job market, while the business must develop employees that are able to compete with other businesses within the same industry. Employee development is a fundamental duty of the effective manager. Managers and supervisors must encourage employees to pursue both personal career development goals and those learning goals identified by the business leaders.

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In our industry there seems to be a child/parent mentality where employees believe that any education and business development is the sole responsibility of the business owner - they are required to provide it and to fund it. However, successful businesses need to develop a culture where professional competence is equally the responsibility of the individual as well as the business. Staff must be encouraged to take pride in their profession and set personal goals in continuing their professional development above and beyond what the business will provide. Strategy While employee development is an essential element of the human resource strategy, it is important for a company’s development programs to be in alignment with the business’s overall strategy. Business strategy generally originates at the management level as an abstract strategy for aligning the day-today activities of the business with the company’s mission statement. Owners set specific and measurable goals that must be met by managers and supervisors at the functional level. It is vital human resource strategies are linked with the overall organisational strategy to ensure employee development also promotes organisational development. Assessment Before business leaders can set goals

for growth and development, they must first assess the business’s core competencies to determine which skills are most important to the development of the business as a whole. They must also determine where skills are lacking. For example, if the organisation appears to be lacking strong leadership, then one goal might be to implement leadership development training. If managers identify issues with team dynamics, they may choose to implement team building programs to encourage employees to work together more effectively. These internal reviews are important in order to bring harmony and co-operation between staff performance and the business’s objectives. Return on Investment Effective employee development strategies generate a positive return on investment, which is a common bottom-line goal of any organisational development strategy. The retention of highly skilled employees saves the business a great deal of money which would otherwise be lost to high turnover. Highly developed employees also contribute to the overall effectiveness of the business to compete with others within its industry. Additionally, businesses are better able to implement organisational developments when workers maintain the skills necessary to implement change. APJ


New Member Benefits Constantly looking at ways to improve their members’ bottomline, APAN is pleased to announce it has secured St. George Bank as a new Strategic Alliance Partner. This alliance has secured excellent corporate rates, savings and benefits to help you run your business in a more efficient and cost-effective manner.

BUSINESS CHEQUE ACCOUNT FOR DAY-TO-DAY BANKING

+ Instant access to available funds through multiple channels + 24/7 electronic access + Versatile and cost effective

BUSINESS BANKING ONLINE

MARKET LEADING EFTPOS TERMINALS

+ Complete online

+ Fast and efficient

access 24/7

+ Fast, efficient and secure

+ Browser and mobile access

processing through stand alone or integrated terminals

+ Full contactless and chip support

+ Multiple connectivity

and fall-back options including WiFi, IP & 3G

TRANSACTION & MERCHANT BANKING:

BUSINESS LENDING PRODUCTS:

EQUIPMENT LEASING AND RENTAL:

Dennis Donaldson donaldsond@stgeorge.com.au 0423 849 689

Paul Barbagallo barbagallop@stgeorge.com.au 0423 841 150

Amanda Drane dranea@stgeorge.com.au 0434 369 353

Please quote your membership number to secure your special rates. If you are not a current member of APAN there are several options available to you. Call us today on 07 5593 0360 or www.apanetwork.com. Conditions, fees and charges apply. These may change or we may introduce new ones in the future. Full details are available on request. Lending criteria apply to approval of credit products. This information does not take your personal objectives, circumstances or needs into account. Consider its appropriateness to these factors before acting on it. Read the disclosure documents for your selected product or service, including the Terms and Conditions or Product Disclosure Statement, before deciding. Unless otherwise specified, the products and services described on this website are APJ 121 available only in Australia from Westpac Banking Corporation ABN 33 007 457 141 AFSL and Australian credit licence 233714.


ADVERTORIAL

THE SPARROW-GROUP INTRODUCES CHANGES TO IMPROVE CLIENT SERVICES Constantly growing and evolving The Sparrow-Group insurance relocated to new larger premises this year to accommodate the new advances in its organisational structure. We asked Founder and Director Sue Sparrow-Crisp for an update on what is happening with the company and new statistics in the insurance world that businesses should be aware of. Sue Sparrow-Crisp: Our business development has been updated to take our services to a new level with more efficient and effective policies. This is good news for our clients as they now have more options. We are constantly aware that many businesses are time-poor and today they need the flexibility to access their needs on-line. This is a reality for many businesses and we have taken note and are now providing them with better options. To help accommodate the changing needs of our clients we are APJ 122

launching a new Website early in 2019 that will provide excellent features to service our clients and make engagement with us easier. Our ever-growing team is constantly expanding and we are diligent in training them to improve their skills and provide highly efficient customer service. In terms of changes, this year we have seen a massive increase in claims. It is important to note that consumers are now very savvy in how they navigate around issues when they are not totally happy with the treatment outcome they received. There is a growing number of clients who don’t hesitate to quickly contact regulatory bodies, such as ACCC or AHPRA with their complaints. When this occurs, it becomes a painful and lengthy process as such complaints go through a full investigation process. For businesses that have appropriate insurance with us they can rest assured that we will go the extra mile for them with our legal team to support them in this process and minimise the trauma as a result of such incidents. This service will not cost them anything extra - it is all part of their premium. The message we want to communicate to business owners is to please take their insurance cover seriously, as the risks of litigation are constantly on the rise and we have evidence of that. Everyone believes it will not happen to them, however, when it does, it can be incredibly traumatic and it grieves me to see people sometimes having to even sell their homes to pay for a case against them. For further information please contact THE SPARROW GROUP Ph: 07 5502 8326 | www.thesparrowgroup.com.au


“Protecting your Interests”

NEW LOCATION – NEW OPTIONS Moving from strength-to-strength

For a new Business Client-Care Assessment or to review your current policies please contact THE SPARROW GROUP 07 5502 8326 sue@thesparrowgroup.com.au www.thesparrowgroup.com.au APJ 123


APAN AESTHETICS CONFERENCE 2019 ‘Exciting New Conference Format’ These two events will feature double the speakers with a new focus on best practice and leading treatment outcomes. We believe this format will allow delegates to gain double the value from the conference, which will still remain as a one-day event. ARAP and CTARP practitioners, each of these events will gain six CPD points for attending the full program.

Renew your knowledge and energy and gain the competitive advantage Remember, no-one looks after you like APAN so plan to be there and join us for an exciting time of learning, networking and lots of fun.

GOLD COAST Monday May 27 MELBOURNE Monday August 12 07 5593 0360 info@apanetwork.com www.apanetwork.com

fi APJ 124

@apan.page #apanconf

Profile for APAN - Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network

APJ Vol 39 2018  

Aesthetics Practitioners Journal Volume 39 Summer 2018 - The official publication of the Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network (APAN)

APJ Vol 39 2018  

Aesthetics Practitioners Journal Volume 39 Summer 2018 - The official publication of the Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network (APAN)

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