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they’re known to oxidise easily and become “toxic.” However, grapeseed oil has a moderately higher smoke point than olive oil, or certain other PUFA vegetable oils.

WHEN CAN GRAPESEED OIL BE UNHEALTHY? The fatty acid composition of grape seed oil is where things really get controversial. By now you know that grapeseed oil is very high in polyunsaturated fats, but keep in mind that there are different kinds of PUFAs: omega-3s, omega-6s and omega-9s. Since most of the fatty acids in grapeseed’s are polyunsaturated, this can be considered good and bad, depending on who you ask. While many governing health authorities consider PUFAs to be healthy, while they still shame quality sources of saturated fats, there’s agreeance from everyone that the balance, or ratio between different fats is what’s really important. An abundance of omega-6s in the diet compared to other fatty acids (omega-3s especially) is problematic because this increases inflammation levels. It’s easy for grapeseed oil manufacturers and marketers to promote their product as being healthy because it’s very low in saturated fat and high in unsaturated fats, but given the information we know today about how fats are actually used in the body, this isn’t a very strong selling point. For decades, saturated fats were given a bad name, but today, we know that some saturated fat (such as the kind found in coconut oil or butter) is essential for overall health — and what we really need to be concerned about is consuming far too much proinflammatory omega-6s. If we compare the amount of omega-6s in grapeseed oil to other vegetable oils, we find that grapeseed has one of the highest levels. Here are how different oils stack up: •

Grapeseed oil: 70 per cent omega-6 PUFA

Sunflower oil: 68 per cent

Corn oil: 54 per cent

Soybean oil: 51 per cent

Canola oil: 19 per cent

BENEFICIAL TO HAIR AND SKIN Aside from consuming grapeseed oil, grapeseed oil is often used in cosmetic formulations because of its high vitamin E content and because it is loaded with moisturising fatty acids. According to the Linus Pauling Institute, omega-6 and omega-3 fatty acids are crucial to skin function and appearance. And omega-6 fatty acids are necessary for skin barrier functioning. Specifically, linolenic acid present abundantly in grapeseed oil. Linolenic acid also plays a role in reducing skin inflammation in the middle and outer layers. Other reasons grapeseed oil is used are to: •

moisturise skin

lighten skin

tighten the appearance of pores

reduce the appearance of scars

remove makeup

USED AS A MASSAGE OIL As mentioned previously, grapeseed oil is an excellent massage oil, not just because of its nutritional benefits, but also because of its light texture and its very light aroma that allows it to be blended with essential oils if desired.

QUALITY IS IMPORTANT Whether applied on the skin or ingested it is best to access cold-pressed or expeller-pressed grapeseed oil, which is the healthier option. This will ensure that your vitamin E and its antioxidant effect is at its optimum, as when extraction is performed chemically many of the nutrients are destroyed. APJ

For a list of references, please contact the editor.

The omega-3s and omega-6s we get from our diets basically compete with one another. In the body, they both undergo chemical conversions in order to be turned into different molecules that have various roles. Omega-6s and omega-3s are needed for brain function, metabolism, neurotransmitter function and more. Omega-6s aren’t bad by nature; people just seem to get too much of them for their own good. Different authorities recommend different ratios of omega-3s to omega-6s (such as 1:1 or up to 10:1), but most accept that higher omega-3 intake is correlated with better health. For example, in the Mediterranean diet, the level of omega-6 fatty acids, is much lower than in the standard Australian diet. The Mediterranean diet has been tied to better heart health, weight management and cognitive functioning into older age. People living in the Mediterranean usually eat a diet very low in factory farm-raised animal products, refined vegetable oils and packaged snacks loaded with omega-6s.

APJ 41

Profile for APAN - Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network

APJ Vol 38 2018  

Aesthetics Practitioners Journal Volume 38 Spring 2018 - The official publication of the Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network (APAN)

APJ Vol 38 2018  

Aesthetics Practitioners Journal Volume 38 Spring 2018 - The official publication of the Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network (APAN)