Spring Volume 38 2018
Aesthetics Practitioners Journal is the official publication of the Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network PTY LTD.
LEADING THE WAY IN TERTIARY EDUCATION
Bachelor of Applied Health Science (Clinical Aesthetics)
IN THIS ISSUE SPRING VOLUME 38. 2018 APAN INDUSTRY REPORTS, NEWS AND PRODUCTS
CAPTURING THE SPIRIT OF PARIS
REGULATIONS, STANDARDS AND EDUCATION 28-31
CORRECTION AND CAMOUFLAGE SKIN CONSULTATION CAPTURING THE RIGHT DATA FOR A SUCCESSFUL TREATMENT DESIGN AND OUTCOME
DIABETES AND ITS IMPACT ON WOUND HEALING
SETTING THE BAR HIGHER IN COSMETIC PROCEDURES
WINNING THE WAR AGAINST SKIN CANCER – ONE-LESION-AT-A-TIME
TIPS FOR BETTER BUSINESS
CHANGES TO WA LASER LAWS
SEMINARS, EXPOS AND CONFERENCES 42-44
NETWORKING AT ITS BEST
A5M CONFERENCE – ANOTHER GREAT EVENT
14TH NATIONAL LASER & COSMETIC MEDICINE CONFERENCE
APAN AESTHETICS CONFERENCE 2019
BUSINESS, PERSONAL AND PROFESSIONAL DEVELOPMENT 20-21
FIVE TOP TIPS FOR PROFIT
THE POWER OF FRAGRANCE ON HUMAN BEHAVIOUR
INSTAGRAM MADE EASY
EQUANIMITY – THE COOL APPROACH FOR SURVIVAL
APAN LAUNCHES (CPD) PROGRAM
SUCCESSFUL FINANCIAL GROWTH STRATEGIES
SCIENTIFIC RESEARCH, TREATMENTS AND TECHNOLOGY 16-17
THE RENAISSANCE OF CUPPING THERAPY
THE HEALTH AND BEAUTY BENEFITS OF GRAPESEED OIL
THE NEW ERA OF DISEASE MANAGEMENT AND THE DAWN OF THE INTEGRATIVE, REGENERATIVE, AESTHETICS MODEL
HELICHRYSUM ESSENTIAL OIL BENEFITS FOR SKIN AND HEALTH
THE GROWING EPIDEMIC BODY DYSMORPHIC DISORDER AND CLINICAL PRACTICE
HYPERTHYROIDISM AND RELATED EYE DISEASE AND THE CHALLENGES WITH COSMETIC TATTOOING
CANNABIS AND HEMP OIL ARE THEY FOUND IN SKINCARE?
TOP FIVE NATURAL IMMUNITY BOOSTERS AMAZING ANTIBACTERIAL PROTECTION THROUGH ESSENTIAL OILS
COMEDOGENICITY AND SKINCARE FORMULATIONS
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Journal Advisory Board Terry Everitt - Education Features Wendy Neely - PR and Marketing Dr Douglas Grose Scientific Content Caroline Nelson - Business Features National Advisory Council John Fergusson Terry Everitt Chris Testa Gill Fish Vanessa Kirkham Carole Jackson ISSN: 1836-9812 Pint Post Approved  Circulation 6900
INFRARED VS LED - ONE HOT TOPIC POST-INFLAMMATORY HYPERPIGMENATION POSTABLATIVE TREATMENTS
Editor Katherine McCann (07) 5593 0360 firstname.lastname@example.org www.apanetwork.com
EXPLORING THE BENEFITS OF ARNICA
Front Cover Australasian College Health & Wellness 02 9956 3979 email@example.com www.tachw.edu.au For further information see pages 12 - 15
Spring Volume 38 2018
Aesthetics Practitioners Journal is the official publication of the Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network PTY LTD.
LEADING THE WAY IN TERTIARY EDUCATION
Bachelor of Applied Health Science (Clinical Aesthetics)
The Aesthetics Practitioners Journal is the official publication of the Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network Pty Ltd, a network organisation established to service the needs of the aesthetics industry in the area of professional development and business networking. The Aesthetics Practitioners Journal is published quarterly for the benefit of its members and subscribers and aims to inform and educate its members on better business practices and industry advancements. All editorials and articles that are submitted for publishing remain the property of Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network Pty Ltd. Reproduction in part or in whole is not permitted without prior written authorisation by the publishers. Every effort has been made to ensure that all scientific and technical information presented is as accurate as possible at the time of publishing. However, members and readers are highly recommended to also seek external advice from their accountant, registered financial adviser or healthcare professional for their recommendations. APJ 5
EDITOR’S NOTE Katherine McCann
YOU KNOW, I HAVE TO SAY I love that our industry never stands still. Not only is it ever changing and evolving, but it’s constantly bursting with opportunities and I’m finally beginning to be comfortable with being uncomfortable, because as soon as I master a technique, something new comes along and it challenges me to start learning again. But here’s the thing – I get it that new technologies are now engineered and designed to be smoother, more sophisticated, easier to operate and safer – BUT they’re also able to deliver more advanced physiological and cellular changes within the skin and body and many have medical capabilities. This means it’s no longer enough to ‘just learn’ how to operate new equipment, but that more advanced knowledge is needed on how to optimise results by combining protocols and layering technologies, all of which is underpinned by a deeper understanding of cell interaction with various currents in unique sequences. We are moving into an era when it’s no longer just about the machine and its capabilities – but, more so about the skillsets and knowledge of
And so, we are seeing the new era when tertiary qualifications (we now have three institutions offering bachelor degrees) are becoming mainstream and thus defining a new standard of knowledge for our industry, and over the next decade the advent of higher education will totally begin to change the professional landscape of our industry as we know it today. So, what will become of us who don’t have a degree? I believe that while tertiary qualifications will expand new horizons, they will also open up the path to specialisation and creation of new opportunities. Whatever you are passionate about, choose to become expertly skilled and knowledgeable in that area and be the best you can be. By perfecting your skills, you will find there will always be a market for whatever you chose to excel in, paper can never entirely replace passion, only enhance its recognition. In this issue of APJ, there is ample evidence of tertiary qualification options and opportunities for one to pursue higher learning. You will also see that several of our educational articles will challenge the standard educational status quo and possibly your knowledge base. For those who are familiar with APAN’s ethos, this organisation stands for nurture and care, but it also never fails to challenge us to constantly grow and expand our knowledge. In this issue we continue to bring you up-to-date science, industry advances and educational articles that aim to optimise practice management, improve marketing strategies and boost client attraction and retention, while streamlining practice efficiency. If you are not formally part of our community of practice, please consider joining as an APAN member as you will not only professionally benefit, but you will also be supporting an organisation that works tirelessly for both your current and future professional identity, as well as your right to practice the modalities you know and love, while expanding your business ideas and opportunities. Remember, never step away from ongoing progress as you’ll lose momentum and keep in mind as the practitioner, you are the face of our industry and future.
the practitioner sitting in the driver’s seat orchestrating and achieving amazing treatment outcomes that are uniquely their own, while defying past limitations with new treatment breakthroughs. You may even be familiar with the introduction of the more ‘freestyle’ protocols, all of which provide flexibility based on the user’s discretion and knowledge in order to provide bespoke, or customised treatments, all of which we are watching the pace pick up on.
OUR REGULAR APJ CONTRIBUTERS TERRY EVERITT Terry Everitt is regarded as a ‘Master Skincare Professional’ due to his extensive knowledge in the art and science of skincare. A very competent educator and regular lecturer on aesthetic and medical conferences where he presents up-to-date information from an evidence-based scientific perspective. Terry is the Director of Aesthetic Educators Pty Ltd. To contact Terry you can email him at firstname.lastname@example.org.
CAROLINE NELSON Caroline Nelson is a beauty industry expert with over 40 years industry experience. She specialises and is passionate in helping clinics and spas develop their brand, improve productivity, and increase bottom-line profit. To learn more about her step-by-step program for salon spa success visit www.SalonSpaBusiness.com or phone 041 0600 440.
GAY WARDLE Gay Wardle is a well-known multi-awarding winning industry expert and a renowned lecturer who conducts advanced skin analysis training for businesses and their staff on all issue pertaining to skin science. If you would like you and your staff to undertake training with Gay please contact Gay on 0418 708 455 or book online at www.gaywardle.com.au. You can also email her on email@example.com.
JACINE GREENWOOD Jacine Greenwood is an internationally recognised educator who is known within the industry for her up-to-date knowledge and her ability to deliver training in an easy to understand method. Jacine holds six Diplomas, including a Diploma of Cosmetic Chemistry and a Bachelor of Nursing. Her knowledge is highly respected in the cosmetic industry. With over 22 years experience in the industry and a background of cosmetic formulation, Jacine has an immense knowledge of current trends in research and new developments in the industry. Contact her on 07 3807 1429 or email firstname.lastname@example.org.
DR ZAC TURNER Dr Zac Turner has a broad medical background specialising in regenerative and aesthetic medicine. Aesthetically, Dr Zac feels that a natural look is best, and truly believes that his ‘less-is-more’ approach. Dr Zac is involved in both the men’s health and preventative health space. He sees prevention and body optimisation as the ultimate way to prevent chronic disease, obesity, and many other conditions. He has owned and is currently involved with clinics in the holistic health arena and believes that through an holistic assessment of someone’s health we can enable them to live longer, healthier, and happier. Contact Dr Zac by Email: email@example.com.
TRISH HAMMOND Trish Hammond is an award-winning blog and social media expert and the director of Plastic Surgery Hub. She is renowned for her skilful writing and interviews in all facets of the social media space. Her company specialises in the Aesthetics, Cosmetic Surgery and Cosmetic Medicine industry sectors for which she provides personalised and comprehensive services to help businesses communicate powerfully, grow their brand and capture new clients and patients. If you would like to speak to Trish about your blogging needs please contact her on 0429 264 811 or Email firstname.lastname@example.org.
Tina Viney A message from the CEO Dear Colleagues and friends I AM AMAZED at how this year has gone so fast as we are already into spring. August and September have been very busy months for APAN. Our second conference in Sydney was a great success and we were able to catch up with passionate business owners and practitioners and share quality education, while enthusiastically engaging with so many wonderful and inspirational people in our industry. We always value the face-to-face encounters as they are rewarding and exciting. It is so great getting to know you all on a personal, as well as a professional level. Just before our event, the A5M Conference was held in Melbourne and is something I would never miss for the world, as it never fails to deliver incredible evidencebased content that can benefit us when planning for the future. We live in a constantly changing world and we cannot afford to remain static. Collaborating and learning from other professional bodies is the key to staying informed of new opportunities, while exploring and identifying ways to work effectively with healthcare professionals. 2019 NEW CONFERENCE FORMAT Talking about conferences, I have some exciting news! Our conference programs are expanding in 2019 with a new format that will double the number of speakers to include a new segment dedicated to problem-solving and case studies. This will add extra value to both business owners and their staff, and deliver valuable information on effective ways of improving treatment outcomes. In 2019 our two conferences will be held on the Gold Coast, May 27th and Melbourne, August 12th. We believe the new format will step-up from previous programs and support best practice as well as on-going business growth. Each program will be different so there is benefit in attending both events, but at the very least please plan to be at one event, as the knowledge you will gain will be invaluable. ARPANSA RELEASE NEW NATIONAL STANDARDS FOR LASER/IPL AND LED In September ARPANSA published a Draft of Safety advice for light-based cosmetic treatments, laser, IPL, and they have also added LED phototherapy. The advice was split into two components for consumers and treatment providers, respectively. The Advice for Consumers aims to promote risk awareness before undergoing procedures and to assist APJ 8
in making informed decisions about treatments. The Advice for Treatment Providers aims to promote good practice in radiation safety through information about consultation, client assessment, safety standards and appropriate training to gain competency in the application of light-based cosmetic treatments. The document was forwarded to key stakeholders and we were required to sent it out to our members for comment, based on expertise. These standards were received with mixed reviews, and while they provided some level of information for establishing national standards, in our opinion and also those of many within the industry that we have spoken to, this measure falls short of the benefit of full regulation for both the safety of the consumer and in adequately protecting the industry. However, it is a start and hopefully we can move forward towards on-going improvement in national standards. Once the final documents have been released, APAN will be sending the link and other relevant information through to our members. CONTINUED PROFESSIONAL DEVELOPMENT While membership to APAN is open to several classifications this level of membership does not review qualifications for the purpose of professional practice. This activity is performed through our national registration program known as ARAP (APAN Registered Practitioner), or CTARP (Cosmetic Tattoo APAN Registered Practitioner). For this registration applicants are required to be APAN Members and then submit their qualifications for assessment. You can access full details of these programs from our website www.apanetwork.com The ARAP and CTARP are the only registration programs available for our industry for aesthetic practitioners. Registered practitioners who are accepted under this program are required to maintain their on-going professional development. As of July 2018, the ARAP and CTARP Registration programs are now supported by a CPD points system with a requirement of 15 points for each year. Please find further information in this journal and also from our website www.apanetwork.com It is standard practice for all professions to provide evidence of currency through their ongoing professional development and itâ€™s time that aestheticians and dermal therapists also adhered to these requirements. Full information on the APAN CPD PROGRAM is available on our website. A CASE FOR CHANGE At the time of publishing this journal I can also report that APAN has submitted a comprehensive proposal to the Queensland regulatory body responsible for reviewing the Drugs and Poisons Act. We presented a Case for Change for the safe use of topical anaesthetics bringing to their attention educational developments, as well as the advancement of procedures within the scope of our practice that require pain-management.
Don’t let the best you have done so far be the standard for the rest of your life. — GUSTAVUS F. SWIFT (1839-1903)
APAN’s business as an industry body is to provide leadership direction, while serving the industry we represent through nurture and encouragement. But, we don’t just stop there. We also challenge you to grow beyond your comfort zone. Without these two elements in operation you cannot maintain your competitive advantage, survive and achieve healthy growth. We do not anticipate any swift changes to the current regulation however, we have commenced dialogue and put forward a very solid case for consideration. The response is that we will be invited to participate in discussions when the review commences. Our intention is to work collaboratively with regulators, not just in Queensland, but also in every State and assist them to gain a better understanding of educational updates within our industry. This no doubt will be a difficult road and a slow process, nevertheless, we are committed to pursue accurate representation of our industry’s progress and the need for regulations that do not compromise consumer safety, but are also more workable for our practitioners. I will keep you upto-date on developments.
AABTh and APAA. It saddens me to see that while they have achieved several milestones for our industry, they are no longer in existence because of apathy and failure for many in the industry to support their existence. We need a strong voice to fight our battles, and ensure a continued and thriving industry.
WHAT’S IN STORE FOR 2019
A few weeks ago, I interviewed Dr Tiina Meder a worldrenowned cosmetic dermatologist and formulator of the Meder Professional Skincare distributed in Australia by Spectrum Science and Beauty. Dr Meder is at the forefront of ingredient research and advanced formulations specifically for clinical practice and has been instrumental in research and development with large companies in Switzerland and France.
We are very optimistic for the year ahead, with plans to continue to pursue industry standards and represent industry needs that are fair and equitable for the various modalities that make up our diverse professional practices. We are heavily involved in the development of nationally-approved qualifications with relevant government bodies, universities and also with innovative RTO organisations that are delivering quality education to support the recognition of the profession. As most of you will be aware regulations are also high on our agenda and we are vigilant to continue to put forward recommendations that will best serve you. Membership continues to be our major funding for our activities and we value the growing number of industry professionals who see the personal and professional value of their memberships with us. Thank you to all who stand with us as we continue to represent your needs. Without your support we cannot exist, as there is no government funding available to us for the tasks we perform.
APAN’s business as an industry body is to provide leadership direction while serving the industry we represent through nurture and encouragement. But, we don’t just stop there. We also challenge you to grow beyond your comfort zone. Without these two elements in operation you cannot maintain your competitive advantage, survive and achieve healthy growth.
This was her first visit to Australia and she commented on how impressed she was to see that the aesthetics industry in Australia is so much more advanced in their scope of practice than many other countries. This has not happened by accident – it is the result of Associations’ consistent efforts for aestheticians’ rights to practice advanced modalities and use medical-grade technology. You only have to look at the US and other countries in Europe to see that doctors exclusively can operate many of these devices. I do encourage you all to support us in our endeavours. Your membership will not only provide you with tangible business benefits, but will also allow us to fight for your future. That is APAN’s mission.
In the past, the beauty/aesthetics industry was shaped by three important industry associations – AFABT,
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GAIN THE EDGE WITH AN ACCREDITED DEGREE IN APPLIED HEALTH SCIENCE Formalise your experience and stay relevant in an ever-changing industry with a nationally recognised, tertiary level degree. Specialise in dermal therapy or clinical aesthetics, and get the professional edge over your peers. APJ 12
WHATEVER YOU THINK of our aesthetics industry, one thing is for sure – there’s never been a time when we’ve experienced such rapid advances. Have you ever wondered whether your current qualifications can provide you with the skills and knowledge to fully understand these new technologies in both skincare and equipment? Are you able to confidently use these advanced techniques to their full potential? Can you tell your clients with a degree of certainty what measurable outcome they can expect from your treatments?
extend their current services to a much higher level of skin correction, anti-ageing and wellness outcomes in both skin and body.
If you’re feeling the pressure to keep up with new technologies and increased treatment expectations from your clients, you’re not alone. Fortunately, there’s good news.
By studying with the Australasian College of Health and Wellness, you can gain an accredited, tertiary level qualifications in Dermal Therapy and Clinical Aesthetics. ACHW degrees are recognised by the Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network (APAN), the Australian Society of Plastic Surgeons (ASPS), Beyond Good Health Holistic Medical Clinics, cosmetic physicians, education and industry bodies nationwide.
The Australasian College of Health and Wellness (ACHW) has relaunched its degree programs with the goal of bridging this gap specifically in mind. Underpinning current aesthetics practice with a new standard of skills and deeper knowledge, ACHW degrees can help you to meet the challenges of the rapidly changing aesthetics industry. The Bachelor of Applied Health Science (Clinical Aesthetics) offers the most comprehensive science-based training in aesthetics at the bachelor level in Australia. It also includes the ability to obtain an Associate Degree two-years into the program.
GAINING A QUALIFICATION RECOGNISED BY KEY INDUSTRY BODIES When it comes to unlocking a rewarding aesthetics career, having the right qualifications can mean all the difference. ACHW’s degree programs have been developed with industry leaders’ input. By integrating tertiary level theory with evidence-based practice, ACHW graduates are able to
With the medical and beauty industry evolving to create advanced cosmetic procedures, recognised professional education is desperately sought-after by the industry. You can secure a career over other industry professionals with a leading and nationally-recognised degree.
ACHW degree programs have also been approved by the Tertiary Education Quality Standards Authority (TEQSA), the government body responsible for maintaining assurance across all higher education providers.
LEARN ADVANCED AESTHETICS TECHNIQUES ACHW’s experienced facilitators will provide you with both the theory and practical knowledge you need to stand out in this rapidly growing aesthetics industry. Through ACHW’s degree programs you’ll learn how to: •
Analyse and treat the skin through advanced techniques such as laser, IPL, skin peels, photo-rejuvenation, and micro-needling
Get your free Bachelor of Applied Health Science (Clinical Aesthetics) course guide. Go to www.tachw.edu.au •
Provide non-surgical cosmetic treatments for dermatological disorders and diseases, including photodamage, ageing, acne, inflammatory skin conditions, eczema and psoriasis
Recognise skin concerns, and understand the interconnection between the vascular system, nervous system, endocrine system, gut health and inflammation
Manage skin integrity for complex patients, including those affected by chronic disease, lymphedema, wounds, scars and diabetes
Understand the psychology of clinical aesthetics, nutrition, health and wellness
Upon completing the Bachelor in Applied Health Science (Clinical Aesthetics), you’ll be equipped with the specialised skills to work alongside dermatologists and plastic surgeons.
GET ADVANCED CLINICAL PRACTICE Aligned with the needs of industry employers and customers, ACHW students receive well-supervised, comprehensive practical sessions to ensure they attain confidence in not just their theoretical understanding, but also in translating theory to practice. For full-time students, this usually involves two sessions of 3-day workshops per semester, with two semesters running per year. Part-time students can expect to typically be required to attend two sessions of 3-day workshop blocks per year. Practical sessions are run in capital cities across Australia, making the degree programs highly flexible and accessible for working professionals.
FIT STUDY AROUND YOUR LIFE Develop the skills you need to keep ahead in the evolving health and wellness industry, with the flexibility to study in your own time and at your own pace. ACHW’s degree programs have been designed with working professionals in
mind. With access to an Online Learning Management system and a virtual classroom, you can study anytime and anywhere. You’ll also be supported with regular access to facilitators and student support services, including after hours. The Australasian College of Health and Wellness supports students fitting their study around work and life requirements. As a part-time student, you could study two units per semester, with a minimum of 8-15 hrs per week commitment to study. The following semester, if you find you have more time to study and wish to finish your course faster, you can choose to enrol in four units. ACHW students enjoy the ability to switch between part-time and full-time study as needed.
UPGRADE TO A TERTIARY QUALIFICATION AND UNLOCK NEW CAREER OPTIONS For people who have completed a Diploma of Beauty Therapy, an Associate Degree in Applied Health Science (Dermal Therapy) can be an exciting next step. By upgrading to a university-level qualification, beauty therapists can build on their existing skills to change direction into the dynamic field of clinical aesthetics. By undertaking an Applied Health Science degree, beauty therapists can gain a higher standard of skills and knowledge. Gaining a deeper understanding of the science of skin, in combination with advanced practical experience, graduates can gain greater confidence working with clients. ACHW graduates can also enjoy greater recognition when working collaboratively with healthcare professionals.
AN EXCELLENT OPTION FOR NURSES For nurses and other experienced healthcare professionals, returning to study can unlock exciting career options in the field of clinical aesthetics. With ACHW degree programs nurses can build on their existing healthcare skills while expanding their knowledge of new aesthetic procedures.
GET RECOGNISED FOR PRIOR EXPERIENCE AND LEARNING If you have previous studied or have relevant experience in the beauty, dermal, aesthetics or health areas, you may be eligible for credit through Recognition of Prior Learning (RPL). With RPL you may be able to save time and cost on completing a degree.
FEE-HELP APPROVED With the Australasian College of Health and Wellness being an approved FEE-HELP provider, studying an Applied Health Science degree may be more affordable than you think. Upfront payment options are also available.
If you have successfully completed a Diploma of Beauty Therapy or currently are a Registered Nurse, you may be eligible for credit through RPL. To receive a personalised assessment of how much credit you may be able to receive on a degree through RPL, please contact the ACHW’s course advisory team. Simply call (02) 9956 3979 or email support@ tac.edu.au to learn more.
Enrolments for ACHW’s February intake are now open. To reserve your place, go to www.tachw.edu.au/how-to-apply to access your application form. Once your application form is returned with any required documentation, ACHW will inform you of the outcome of your application within one week.
ENTRY INTO THE DEGREE PROGRAM
If you’re interested in exploring what an Applied Health Science degree in dermal therapy or clinical aesthetics could mean for your career, ACHW’s advisors can discuss your options with you. APJ
To gain entry, you must demonstrate your ability to manage the academic rigours of a bachelor degree, especially in terms of your academic study and time management skills. Evidence to demonstrate these includes: •
Completion of a higher school certificate with an ATAR of 65 or above
Completion of a tertiary qualification of Certificate IV or above
TAKE THE FIRST STEP TO A REWARDING CAREER
To arrange a consultation simply email firstname.lastname@example.org. au, visit www.tachw.edu.au, or call (02) 9956 3979.
The Australasian College of Health and Wellness will also consider any other documentation which demonstrates your academic and time management skills including from formal studies, workplace activities or research. APJ 15
The Renaissance of CUPPING THERAPY By Eva Boyd I AM A STRONG ADVOCATE of the benefits of cupping therapy because as a young girl I experienced this treatment through the years when I suffered from severe cases of flu with coughing spouts. While the cupping suction was mildly uncomfortable, the improvement in my lung-congestion was so incredible that it brought me great relief and I was able to sleep soundly after a treatment.
and inflamed, there’s not necessarily much pain associated with the treatment. That’s also dependent on the experience and skill of the practitioner. However, most clients will only experience a slight pinching sensation during the treatment. While the result may leave bruises where the skin was sucked up for a few minutes there is no pain associated and the bruising will subside in a few days.
Cupping is making a huge comeback thanks to Olympians, like Michael Phelps, who regularly practicing it, but also new technology is perfecting the technique by introducing it as a softer, more versatile version of the treatment, offering not just body treatments, but also a new-generation of effective skin rejuvenation treatment option, which I will share with you later in this article. In fact, one of the latest innovations are being advertised in this issue of APJ by Diamond Natural Beauty on page 18.
Cupping has some amazing health benefits and I would like to share a few with you to help you appreciate the benefits of this therapy.
WHAT IS CUPPING? The art of cupping in nothing new, it has been around for centuries. The therapy involves placing cups on an affected area (often the back) using heat and suction — a heated cup is placed on the skin, a vacuum is created from the cooling, becoming a kind of massage (only pulling instead of pushing on tissue). Traditionally, there are two types of cupping methods – dried and the wet cupping practice. The dry version involves leaving the cups in place for a few minutes to suck the skin into it and expand the blood vessels, whereas wet cupping takes it a step further. While still not proven, many believe that “wet” cupping can be even more effective in mobilising and remove toxins in the body. The wet method involves the therapist making small cuts where the cup was providing suction, and then replacing the cups to draw out a small amount of blood. Proper precautions should be taken beyond this point to ensure no infection results. While cupping draws up areas of skin and leaves it looking red
TREATMENT OF VARIOUS AILMENTS Cupping is a very simple, yet effective procedure and while there is not a lot of independent research conducted on its benefits, my searched revealed one report that appeared in the Journal of Traditional and Complementary Medicine in 2015. That report followed the 2012 findings that reviewed 135 reports on cupping. The conclusion of the 2012 review was that combined with other natural or drug remedies, cupping can be useful to combat acne, anxiety, facial paralysis, herpes zoster (also known as shingles), and cervical osteoarthritis (a neck joint disorder). So, let’s take a closer look at the benefits of cupping:
WEIGHT-LOSS AND CELLULITE Weight-loss and cellulite treatment is one advantage that can be seen from using the cupping method. People tend to gain most of their weight around the middle area of their stomach. This accumulation of fat in the abdomen can include factors such as stress, hormonal issues and inactivity, contributing to stagnation of toxins and fat. Cupping is a way that you can rid the body of harmful toxins. In Chinese culture, the accumulation of fat is considered to be deposits of toxins that have settled in your body and are preventing proper blood circulation throughout the body. Cupping therapy can work to stimulate blood and lymphatic flow assisting in the removal of these toxins. For this purpose,
the cupping method will work to promote healthy digestive activity, relieve stress levels and assist in moving stagnation of toxins from the abdominal area of the body. Cupping also does wonders for cellulite, as this procedure is highly effective in moving lymphatic stagnation and improving circulation.
FACIAL REJUVENATION For skin and facial rejuvenation facial cupping using a specially designed cup that is made to fit the contours of an individual’s face, neck, and upper chest areas is used. The suction helps lift the soft tissue in these sensitive areas and will help reduce fine lines, wrinkles, and even scarring. A massaging motion done during facial cupping can also help to relax tense muscles and helps stimulate the facial tissue to promote healing and reduce the effects of lines and wrinkles. The lifting motion of the cupping compared to pushing with manual massage, helps improve circulation and lymphatic flow and allows the tissues to be nourished through oxygen and nutrients that are increased to the dermal layers of the skin improving overall skin health. In addition to these benefits, cupping is also known to help improve the symptoms of headaches and migraines, facial paralysis, sinus infections, and even earaches. A new innovation using the cupping principle has been developed by Diamond international. Their system of cupping is bi-directional, which means it does not induce any red blotches as is the case with the traditional cupping, as it slowly draws the blood to the surface, thus improving circulation and lymphatic drainage. This system is based on mimicking the lymphatic pump of the body which provides a one-way pump for moving fluids along the lymphatic vessels by creating peristalsis. In fact, the Diamond cupping creates the same type of peristalsis in the tributary lymphatic system and assists to mobilise stagnant toxins towards the main lymphatic nodes. For more details check out the article on page18. Apart from reviving the skin to improve lines and wrinkles, cupping has been known to improve skin conditions such as rosacea, telangiectacia and even acne, due to its effective ability to mobilise lymphatic stagnation. Remember, one of the fundamental benefits of cupping is to move stagnation – it is a very effective modality in achieving this.
HIGH BLOOD PRESSURE Hypertension is a common condition and if it goes untreated, can cause serious medical complications, including kidney failure, heart disease, and stroke. Chinese medicine speaks of 12 meridians that are found on the body and in each meridian are acupoints that are used to spread and gather fluids. It is said that if you stimulate these meridian points, then you can communicate with other organs and improve the body’s function and processes, including improving blood circulation, clean blood vessels and arteries, and remove stagnant blood. During the cupping method, as you are experiencing a therapy that involves heat and suction this can help the blood flow and circulation. The cupping will also help pull out pathogens and improve and activate the different meridians which can in turn help to lower blood pressure. Through this process the body’s immunity is stimulated support better health.
PAIN MANAGEMENT The cupping method, which does not involve the ingestion or use of any pharmaceuticals, poses a considerably lower risk, and there are little to no side-effects. In terms of back pain, the cupping method can target points of pain and naturally reduce joint, or muscle pain. Cupping works to release the tissue in the body and in doing so can relax any tense or sore muscles, ease neck and back pain and help also with migraines, relaxing tired and tense muscles. Massage cupping is another method, that also involves the use of essential oils so that the cups can slide over the skin and the points of pain. It works in combination with massage therapy and is a stress-reliever that can promote healing and relaxation.
IMPROVE DIGESTION The cupping method, as discussed earlier, can aid an individual in weight-loss, but it can also help to improve digestion. If the cupping is administered over the abdominal area, you can see relief from disorders such as irritable bowel syndrome, gastritis, diarrhoea, water retention, and other serious and recurring stomach pains and conditions.
DETOXIFICATION One of the best-known benefits of the cupping method is the detoxification that occurs during the procedure. The cupping method is a non-intrusive procedure to help remove harmful toxins from the body by bringing them to the surface. The blood will flow into the capillaries under the skin, and the treatment will move the toxins to the surface for elimination. This procedure aids in improving immunity and supporting the body against disease.
MENTAL HEALTH Anxiety and depression are very common mental health disorders that arise and can bring the onset of additional symptoms such as a feeling of sadness, apathy and even helplessness. Cupping therapy offers a sense of relaxation and helps to reduce stress levels and alleviate the symptoms of some of these otherwise crippling ailments.
RESPIRATORY DISORDERS Cupping strategically targets certain points of the body in an attempt to help alleviate ailments without the need for pharmaceutical drugs. It is a natural way to treat certain respiratory problems including the common cold, bronchitis, asthma, emphysema, and other respiratory conditions. I can definitely vouch for the wonderful benefits it can bring to such conditions.
CONCLUSION The benefits of cupping are numerous. As you are working with the body’s natural physiology there are very few risks involved with this non-invasive procedure. APJ While there are now new technologies that incorporate cupping, such as the one mentioned earlier through Diamond, if you wish to introduce the manual service to your clients, it is recommended that you complete a comprehensive training program. I believe that Health Traditions in Melbourne conduct training. You can view further information on their website www.healthtraditions.com.au/courses.php. Alternatively contact Diamond www.diamondnaturalbeauty. com APJ 17
DI AMOND LAU CH ES NE W I N N O V A T I O N
MediSculpt for facial rejuvenation DIAMOND IS EXCITED to announce the launch of its latest offering the Diamond MediSculpt for facial rejuvenation. This new machine is at the forefront of Diamond's mission to bring the highest quality equipment to the world market that will not only achieve visible and lasting results from a single treatment, but more importantly, results are in keeping with Diamond's mission of beauty through wellbeing and at affordable prices. The wellbeing result is achieved by using Diamonds unique anti-ageing technology to assist in the clearing and strengthening of the natural systems of the body, much like exercise, but delivered through our advanced technology, while your clients lie back and relax. This same technology is also used for the highest levels of athletic training. www.diamondnaturalbeauty.com/ publications/ The new Diamond MediSculpt uses Diamond's world-renowned Medilift technology combined with Diamond's latest high frequency technology and combining it with Diamond's unique patented modified cupping technology. The Diamond Medilift has been featured on shows such as Dr Phil, Fox News, Live Like a Star, E-News and has also been presented as a treatment for the Stars at the Golden Globes and Oscars. www.diamondnaturalbeauty.com/aatest
Cupping is becoming a very popular treatment worldwide. Diamond's unique patented bi-directional cupping is delivered electronically and allows for the delivery of hundreds of cups per minute. As the Diamond system of cupping is bi-directional it does not induce any red blotches as is the case with the traditional cupping, as it slowly draws the blood to the surface, thus improving circulation and lymphatic drainage. In fact, the Diamond system is based on mimicking the lymphatic pump of the body which provides a one-way pump for moving fluids along the lymphatic vessels by creating peristalsis. The Diamond cupping creates this same type of peristalsis in the tributary lymphatic system and assisting to mobilise stagnant toxins towards the main lymphatic nodes. As a result, the Diamond MediSculpt works at four levels in the body, from the deepest muscular level back through the tributary lymphatic system (ECM) and further back to the geloid level to assist with myofacia release and finally at the follicular level where the bi-directional cupping is also assisting with the opening of the follicles by applying surface pressure. Results are substantial and visible within minutes of starting the treatment as stagnation of toxins and fluid congestions are pumped away. The treatment is ideal for both female and male of all ages and ideal also for today's millennials, who often experience fluid retention in the face and jaw. Unlike more aggressive treatments, such as chemical peels and laser treatments, Diamondâ€™s authentic natural treatments achieve rejuvenation, promoting muscular strength and improving circulation without any discomfort or side effects, which is a great treatment for both young and old.
DIAMOND NATURAL BEAUTY 0406 279 889 email@example.com www.diamondnaturalbeauty.com
Beauty & wellbeing through nature & technology Do you want to deliver irresistible treatments that improve not just the vitality of the skin, but also energise and tone the body? Our new-generation devices are supported by unique protocols and a treatment philosophy that focus on improving wellbeing as the foundation to a more youthful appearance. This regenerative dual approach is not only delighting clients, but also allowing business owners to provide more comprehensive treatment options and successfully address multiple concerns.
Diamond Natural Beauty uses a patented technology that is scientifically and medically proven and peer reviewed within the medical and scientific literature and has been successfully used for over 26 years world-wide within the spa and beauty industry. Contact us today and let us help you achieve amazing business growth. DIAMOND NATURAL BEAUTY 0406 279 889 firstname.lastname@example.org www.diamondnaturalbeauty.com APJ 19
FIVE TOP TIPS FOR PROFIT By Caroline Nelson
ONE QUESTION I often get asked by business owners is “what are your best business tips?” So, I thought this was a good topic for an article and while I have many tips I could share, I decided to concentrate on my five “must-dos”. These tips should be the cornerstone to strengthen current businesses, or for future business owners, the ways to prevent costly, or even fatal commercial mistakes. One thing we do know is that the vast majority of aesthetic business owners have come by way of being therapists themselves. Unfortunately, it is also true to say many, if not most, have had little or no prior business operational experience. For many, owning and successfully operating a business requires a whole new skill set. And while it may take time to learn these skills, “learning on the job” can be a costly exercise for some. My advice, at least in the early stages, is to seek expert help, and to work on continuously improving your management skills and keep current by attending seminars, industry conferences, and subscribing to industry journals and magazines. In this way you will expand your business skills. It’s all about the correct skills and tools, which brings us back to my Five Top Tips for Profit, so here they are:
1. CONTROL COSTS If there’s one thing that can easily and often get out of control, it’s business finances, often starting before the doors even open with blow-out costs during the salon, or clinic fit-out and sadly for some, it may never be totally under control. Being frugal should start before the business commences operation and every day thereafter. If too much is spent during the setup stage there may be little, or no money left for marketing, stocking the retail shelves, and emergency funds, which could put the business at a disadvantage. While driving sales is the objective of all businesses the costof-sale is also equally important. Keep in mind, while a dollar gained in revenue is important, a dollar saved from cost goes directly to the bottom line. Make sure you get the right balance. Focus on the top-line by marketing to drive clients through the door, while training your employees to achieve the highest per average sale through expert upgrading and retail techniques, which brings us to the wage bill. Often APJ 20
this is the largest cost because of the labour intensity of the industry. If wages get out of whack, profits soon plummet. On the other hand, when efficiency is improved revenue per employee grows. Another big cost is supplies, and in particular skincare and make-up whether it is professional stock for treatment usage, or stock for retailing. I recommend you develop the best possible relationship with suppliers, a relationship that allows you the opportunity to negotiate the best deal possible. And the more products you move the better the deal you will be able to secure. Remember, good accounts are what all the suppliers are after, and they never want to lose one, so most of them will come to the party with a favourable deal.
2. FOCUS ON SALES Nothing happens until a sale is made, so if you or your employees have the I don’t want to appear to be ‘salesy’ or ‘pushy’ attitude – tell them to get over it quickly. It is possible to make a profit and you can do this without being ‘salesy’. As a business owner you need to review each clients’ purchasing habits, it’s part of managing your team’s productively. If a client’s concerns haven’t been fully met, discuss this with the therapist, the treatment and homecare ‘solutions’ to be recommended at the next visit. Keep checking that they follow through with recommendations because unfortunately some employees can get slack and not bother if knocked back once.
3. BE ORGANISED AND MANAGE YOUR TIME Time is money … as the saying goes, so be efficient with both your time and the employees’ time by streamlining systems and processes.
a. Keep a clean desk by developing an open – action/file, or toss policy. Reconcile your bank statements when they come in, remember they do occasionally make mistakes and setup auto-payments wherever possible. b. Develop good habits that keep you on-track and make sure you share these habits with your team. c. Document procedures and protocols for each service, along with time allowances for each to be completed in both a timely, efficient, and quality fashion. Monitor
employees’ adherence to time allocations, time overruns inconvenience your clients and reduce your profits. 4. STOCK EXCLUSIVE PRODUCT BRANDS Deal only with suppliers who work with you and not against you and who direct any customer enquiries to you, helping to create more sales opportunities for your business. By stocking an exclusive brand, you will be able to carve out a unique personality for your business, one which will separate it from the competition. Never stock a brand that is available discounted online. After all, why would you pay more for something you could get at a fraction of the price.
5. SAVVY PRICING STRATEGIES If there’s one thing you can’t afford to get wrong it’s the prices on the service menu. Make sure your service menu is profitable because if it’s cut-to-the-bone pricing what flexibility will you have to provide attractive ‘call-to-action’ type promotions. Keeping in mind that you need that flexibility cushion, these are the ways to determine which Pricing Strategy suits your business best. The three categories are - Cost-orientated; Competitororientated and Demand-orientated. You may wish to adopt one, or better yet, a combination of all three. •
Cost-orientated: This is when you determine what is the costs to produce the service (most suppliers will provide
individual treatment product costing), add a little extra for some wastage; include the correct proportion of direct costs associated (wages, product, marketing and training); and the percentage of indirect costs (fixed costs i.e. rent, etc) and what cost-recovery (or profit) you want. •
Competitor-orientated: This is when you base your prices according to what your competitors are charging. Either charge the same, undercut their prices, or ‘package’ your service in a way to add customer perceived value so that you can charge more. Keep in mind that price is not always the issue, however, value is.
Demand-orientated: For example, you may have new technology and/or skills that competitors do not have, while you stay ahead you can charge more. The key point to consider in this type of pricing strategy is “what will the market bear” and position your price just a touch under, so that the service is still perceived as good value for money
There you have my five tips. It’s easy to see it’s all about money coming in, money going out and the profit you end up with. It’s in your control, so be wise and keep your finger on the pulse. APJ If you need more information please contact Caroline Nelson beauty industry expert who specialises in helping businesses develop their brand, improve productivity, and increase bottom-line profit. To learn more about her step-by-step program for salon spa success phone 0410 600 440.
Make Qualifications your COMPETITIVE ADVANTAGE COSMETIC TATTOOING is a highly profitable and in-demand procedure. However, there will always be those who take advantage of the opportunities to bring to disrepute the reputation of the profession through poorly delivered procedures due to a lack of qualifications and quality training. If you wish to enter this industry, gaining nationally-recognised qualifications will elevate your status and secure your future in this modality. If you are already a trained cosmetic tattooist why not
gain Recognition of Prior Learning and upgrade your training to the nationallyapproved SHBBSKS003 DESIGN AND PROVIDE COSMETIC TATTOOING? JANETTE ZAKOS is a qualified cosmetic tattooist and trainer with a nursing and beauty therapy background. With over 27 years’ experience and 12 years’ teaching experience she is renowned for skills and knowledge. Training and Assessment with Janette is only on a oneon-one basis. Why not also benefit from her amazing knowledge and techniques?
ALSO AVAILABLE: • 2-Day Microblading Course • 3-Day Ombre brows • 1-Day refresher course • Full-time courses available • Payment plans FOR MORE INFORMATION PLEASE CONTACT JANETTE ZAKOS TODAY 0414 389 603 | email@example.com | www.janettezakos.com
THE POWER OF FRAGRANCE ON HUMAN BEHAVIOUR By Tina Viney
OLFACTION, also known as sense of smell, is the most primal and mysterious of our six senses. Throughout our life our sense of smell has been a key to our survival. Did you know that you are capable of distinguishing thousands of unique odours? Smell is often the first warning of safety or danger, friend or foe. Smells have the power to drive your behaviour on an instinctive and subconscious level. Luckily, you can also harness the power of smell and consciously use it to your advantage. While smelling a delightful aroma can be a very pleasurable experience, new research is now able to scientifically measure the impact it has on our emotions and behaviour. As we are aware, fragrances are big business. Over the past 20 years International Flavours & Fragrances Inc. has been working to refine its methods of measuring both the subjective and the physiological effects of aromas and fragrances on emotions. They have developed a self-report method called Mood MappingTM that reliably measures the mood associations of aromas, whether simple ingredients, or finished fragrances in consumer products (Warrenburg, 2002). Understanding the power of aromas and how they influence behaviour has also been used to influence purchasing decisions. Several years ago, when I was selling my home, the real estate agent told me to place a couple of drops of vanilla on my kitchen hot plate and heat it slightly. He said that this little trick never fails as on entering the home, the women always comment on how warm and homely the house felt without knowing why. He told me that it helped create a memorable comforting association to those properties and made selling those homes so much easier.
TRIGGERING POSITIVE MEMORIES In his book Remembrance of Things Past, Marcel Proust illustrates how smell is linked to early life experiences stored in memory engrams of specific neural-networks. Proust vividly describes how forgotten childhood memories are brought back into consciousness with their original intensity when the protagonist in his story dips a madeleine biscuit into a cup of tea. Researchers call this “Proustian memory effect.” Childhood
memories linked to scent stay with people throughout life. Recently, Rachel Herz of Brown University, and Haruko Sugiyama and colleagues at the Kao Corporation in Japan, conducted a study to identify how the scent of a product evokes personal emotional memories and influences the appeal of a product to potential consumers. Researches are constantly investigating ways to identify how aromas can be used to evoke positive memories and motivate decisions. In my own life there are many aromas of my childhood that when I experience them today, evoke feelings of joy, hope and sheer pleasure. In my early years, I was privileged to live on a farm for two years where I was surrounded with the aromas of homegrown vegetables, fruit trees and flowers. Bread was freshly baked each week and to this day, even if I don’t eat a great deal of it, going past Brumby’s Bakery on a Saturday morning when freshly baked bread is placed on the shelves, evokes a deep sense of pleasure as it brings me back to my childhood with visions of my mother tapping the hot loaves to make sure they are suffciently cooked. Other fragrances that I cherish are the aromas of sweet pea, carnations, the delicate aroma of violets and the sweet, yet earthy smell of rose. There is something sickly sweet about artificial rose fragrances that are no match to the robust aroma of a fresh rose that is both delicate and earthy. This is why I still get the most pleasure from a genuine aromatherapy Damask Rose, where that earthy base note kicks in, reminding me of garden-fresh roses. The idiosyncrasies of smell-related perception are largely determined by prior learning and your personal history, but there are also cultural and geographic variations. i.e. In North America and Europe citrus scents are perceived as bright and happy smells, while lavender is perceived as calming. In Japan, jasmine is associated with a relaxed mood. Rose water is viewed as being an energising and happy scent. Having some knowledge about a given culture can help a perfumer predict the degree to which a specific fragrance will elicit personal memories. The individual intensity of Proustian memories evoked by a product’s fragrance is the prime driving force in motivating consumer behaviour. The more vivid the memories that a fragrance triggers, the higher the odds that someone will
purchase a product with that fragrance. Indeed, this is true, as occasionally, I yield to the temptation to purchase a freshly baked loaf of bread. Research confirms that the scents that you surround yourself with are in the focus of your control and these can drive your behaviour in a positive way. When we understand that, we can put ourselves in the driver’s seat and use fragrance as a tool to create a particular mindset and increase our motivation to achieve a targeted behaviour. The personal neuro-association of certain fragrances and their influence on mood and behaviour is often used in spas, where the practitioner that is aiming to help her client relax and unwind, will often choose three different essential oils, all of which can deliver relaxing properties, but allows the client to actually choose the one that appeals to them the most and to which they will respond more wholeheartedly because of possible neuro-associations. For me, while I love orange, lavender and neroli essential oils, I definitely gravitate to neroli because it revives my memories of the blossoming orange and lemon trees during spring that I experienced during my childhood. Interestingly, just like an old song – a “golden oldie” that you haven’t heard in ages can vividly take you back to a time and a place — a scent that you haven’t smelt in a long time remains more strongly associated with a specific time and place if the smell hasn’t had any new memories woven recently into your neural tapestry.
that there are four factors that compel us to buy certain fragrances: First, women are instantly drawn to the scent and the sensation it brings, whereas men are instantly drawn to the image that the fragrance stimulates. Second, the perfume factor that triggers the buying impulse in women is the emotional reaction to the scent. Perfumes have time travelling propensities, evoking either some past pleasant memories, or prompting a future vision of the wearer of the perfume. Usually, women who embark on travel daydreaming adventure when buying perfumes will typically envision themselves as the new self-improved version in the future. For example, a perfume can make a woman feel more feminine, glamorous, sexy or youthful and it is these emotions that often capture her and compel her to purchase that product. The third factor that dictates that feeling of falling head over heels for a perfume is the image of the perfume. The whole package is important here: the bottle, its creative design, the perfume ad and the celebrity associated with that particular perfume. And lastly, your love for that one perfume is triggered by the ingredients. The scientists are still trying to figure out whether we fall for the olfactory amalgam of ingredients, or for a single ingredient that somehow finds its way to our heart and brain.
YOU CAN USE THE POWER OF OLFACTION TO CREATE MINDSET AND BEHAVIOUR?
Fragrance speaks the loudest on a subliminal level, and for this reason there is quite a bit of research invested in understanding how they can impact behaviour.
Recognising the power of specific smells in your day-to-day life gives you the ability to use fragrance as a tool to create psychological states of mind on demand, while the memories attached to an aroma can help you relive the positive associations linked with the people and places of your past. There are numerous studies available now that can help you appreciate this.
In 2004, Linda Buck and Richard Axel were awarded the Nobel Prize in Physiology on the account of their revolutionary study on the sense of smell. Their research is filled with complex medical terms, but the bottom line is they have the scientific evidence that perfume can stimulate the conscious mind, stabilise and modify the emotional state.
THE PSYCHOLOGY OF PERFUMES
WHAT YOUR PERFUME IS TELLING ABOUT YOUR PERSONALITY
When it comes to perfumes there is a whole body of research that has investigated what compels us to buy a certain fragrance. Here is the conclusion of one study stating
Another study conducted by Paul Jellinek claimed that the mood of a person can be altered by certain perfumes
and ingredients. He founded his research on the ancient philosophy of the four elements AIR, FIRE, WATER and EARTH prompting him to publish the study on mood and fragrance. Here are his conclusions: GREEN, HERBAL, CONIFEROUS, CITRUS These fresh ingredients that dominate the perfume or are the heart of the perfume fall under the AIR element category. Jellinek claimed that these fresh ingredients support mental activity and instigate the creative cognitive process. SPICY, FRUITY, WARM These rich ingredients represent the FIRE element. It is believed that these perfumes uplift and reinvigorate the wearers. ROSY, FLORAL, DELICATE These soft perfumes represent the WATER element. Jellinek believed that these perfumes had the ability to reduce anxiety and stress and promote mental balance. CARAMEL, EARTHY, SENSUAL These sweet ingredients and perfumes represent the EARTH element. These perfumes comfort and nurture the wearer, which is probably connected to comfort food! Jellinek and later, Tisserand suggested that emotionally stable and introverted people are more inclined to choose strong floral oriental perfumes, like Opium by YSL. These women are bursting with ideas and are very creative, but their ambition can be quite exhausting. They are charismatic however they do not seek the approval of others to feel complete. Nor do they want attention drawn to them. (FIRE) Introverted women generally choose oriental perfumes dominated by spicy and warm ingredients with soft undertones, like Lalique Le Parfum by Lalique. These women are instantly comforted by the ingredients and seek emotional refuge from the storm unfolding outside. They are very realistic and never build castles in the air, because they know that every castle built on unstable turf will prove to have been built on pillars of sand or salt. (EARTH) The emotionally ambivalent women are inclined to choose fresh floral perfumes, from the likes of Poppy EDP by Coach. Since these perfumes are toned and softer, these women do not let the perfume do all the talking about themselves. They are intuitive, moody and very attached to their families and children. Due to their unstable nature, because water always flows and changes, they can be seen as emotionally distant, however these women care more than they care to show the world. (WATER)
The woody fresh perfumes like Fatale Intense by Agent Provocateur or Polo by Ralph Lauren are usually selected by women with emotionally stable and extroverted personalities, Jellinek suggests. These women fall under the air element category, meaning that they are innovative and outspoken, natural born motivators, open-minded and are the life of the party. (AIR).
CAN FRAGRANCE CHANGE OUR MOOD? According to some studies, yes, fragrance can both affect and change our mood. Not only does fragrance affect mood, but it can actually enhance work performance and behaviour in various ways. It almost seems magical, but according to science, the fragrance is not working on “us.” We work on the fragrance through life experiences with them. This is based on “associative learning.” Associative learning is the process of items or events linking to a person’s individual past experiences. Certain fragrances may trigger certain feelings and emotions for different people. What might bring peace and serenity to some, may not be the same for others. If you want to enhance behaviour allow your staff to select the signature aroma that you introduce in your workplace, it is amazing how it could influence positive mood. And when it comes to your clients, if there are choices, allow them to pick the aroma that provides them with the most positive experience and enhance their mood. Some of the positive mood-changing benefits that you can expect to find from a carefully selected aromatherapy oil or formula include: •
Identifying the fragrance that you can connect with is very simple. Just take a few moments to breathe in the scents of various fragrances, then go by your own personal instinct as to which fragrance you are gravitating to that is enhancing your mood or feeling that you’re are looking for. If you would like to embark on the adventure of introducing the power of fragrance into your life or workplace, but don’t know where to start. Here are some simple suggestions to get you started: Calming and Relaxing Scents: Chamomile; Jasmine; Lavender; Neroli; Sandalwood; Vanilla; Allspice Berry; Rosewood; Sandalwood; Frankincense. Refreshing, Revitalising and Uplifting Scents: Orange; Anise; Citrus; Cypress; Eucalyptus; Geranium; Ginger; Grapefruit; Lemon; Lime; Myrrh; Nutmeg; Peppermint; Pine; Rose; Rosewood; Spearmint; Tangerine; Spruce; Tea Tree; Thyme; Winter Green.
CONCLUSION There are so many wonderful aromas and fragrances to choose from, so don’t underestimate the power they can have to both inspire and alter mood, which makes them fun to explore and then use them to enhance the quality of life for you and others. APJ
CAPTURING THE SPIRIT OF PARIS
Brigitte Academie de Beaute IF YOU ARE LOOKING for a little bit of Paris in Sydney you can find it at Brigitte Academie de Beaute, a beautifully appointed salon located in the suburb of Five Dock. Owner and director of the business Brigitte Marden is as French as they come, from her elegant presence to her very strong French accent. While she loves Australia, she also cherishes her roots and has been able to capture and bring the very best of French culture to her salon – an experience that her clients have come to expect and greatly appreciate. As a loyal APAN member we have watched her expand her business over the years and we recently caught up with her for an update on her progress. APJ Q1: Brigitte your salon - Brigitte Academie de Beaute has obviously a very French name. How has this impacted your clients and do they expect a “French experience” from your services? The introduction of a French name has definitely impacted our business as clients perceive it as representing elegance, beauty, quality and luxury. We strive to deliver services that reflect these qualities as our signature culture, and clients have come to expect and appreciate it. There is definitely a French flavour in the way we do things, with great attention to high-quality client services, with special touches of luxury. APJ Q2: Despite many businesses struggling you have been able to achieve a successful business for nearly 40 years. To what do you attribute your success? I can definitely say that our success has been based on the fact that our clients can expect that all our treatments and services are delivered with consistent, high standards and that we never compromise on quality. As a result, the quality of our services and our results have allowed us to often service up to three generations of family members, so we have become a part of their way of life.
APJ Q3: What services and treatments do you provide? We provide a wide variety of facial treatments including corrective, maintenance and anti-ageing. We use technologies such as radiofrequency for skin tightening, microdermabrasion and hydrodermabrasion, as well as laser treatments for hair removal, including white hair removal. In terms of our skincare we work with Payot (French), Luzern (Swiss organic) and Mayerling (Australian) which offer skin renewal programs. All our products offer amazing results as well as a feeling of luxury. Additionally, we also provide a comprehensive range of body treatments including radiofrequency skin tightening, body massage, lymphatic drainage to assist with weight management and weight-loss, body exfoliation treatments for detoxification, as well as body wraps to also support and improve overall wellness issues. More and more women would like to lose a little weight and value any support we can give them with our treatments. APJ Q4: While advanced facial treatments have experienced the greatest growth in the past 10 years, do you believe that the trend for body treatments is once again becoming popular and how have the services changed? In the past the percentage of our treatments were 90% facials and 10% body treatments, however, we are slowly seeing a growth toward body treatment service as progressively clients are valuing body wellness and of course, weight-loss and stress management. APJ Q5: What is the most significant change that you have seen in consumer trends in recent years? There is no doubt that client expectations in improving their appearance have definitely increased. Today, clients know exactly what they want and it is important to provide them with the highest level of results including injectables. We are also seeing an increase in a younger demographic as well as an increase number of men who are accessing our services,
either through referral from their partners, or coming directly to us on their own.
They also have come to expect that the treatments and products are formulated specifically for them.
APJ Q6: What are the three most important considerations that a business must perfect to ensure client loyalty?
APJ Q9: Are you still involved with delivering treatments or do you mainly work on the business and with the supervision of staff?
We attribute our client loyalty to our high-quality customer service that they appreciate, which we deliver consistently each and every time they visit us. They love the high standards of hygiene and results and last, but not least, our investment in quality personal connection with each and every client. Today, clients are much more educated and they seek confirmation and reassurance of what is best for them. Investing in educating them and guiding them on their best choices for their personalised plan requires building trust and investing in our relationship with each individual.
I have to admit I am still very passionate about my treatments and love to keep myself up-to-date. I have a section of my clientele that I have taken care of over many years that I still personally service. However, more and more I am predominantly working on the business, supervising and training my staff.
APJ Q7: Have you added any additional treatments over the past five years and what is the percentage split between facials and body treatments?
In terms of my staff, I believe fostering mutual respect, between staff and management and nurturing a sense of belonging where they feel that they are part of the family is so important. With that kind of nurture many of my staff have been with me for more than seven years.
While in the past we worked with less technology, we now incorporate the latest equipment to help us achieve the results that consumers are looking for, we therefore have invested in skin tightening technologies, lasers and also introduced injectables through the services of a doctor. APJ Q8: Do you cater at all for male clients? Yes, we have a full range of products that are specifically for men as we are constantly seeing an increase in male clients, either through referrals, or directly accessing our services.
APJ Q10: In your experience what has been the most effective strategy to improve staff performance and loyalty?
I also value the benefit I gain from being a member of APAN as they keep me up-to-date with business and compliance issues, which I pass on to my staff to ensure that we are all abiding with current rules and regulatory requirements. APJ Brigitte Academie de Beaute is located at Shop 4/110 Great North Rd, Five Dock NSW 2046
CORRECTION AND CAMOUFLAGE Cosmetic Tattoo Mistake, Mishap, or Mind Change by Kym Hopkins and Robert McGowan
THE COSMETIC TATTOO INDUSTRY has grown at a phenomenal rate in recent years. There are more technicians in the industry than ever before due to an ever-increasing demand for a range of cosmetic tattoo procedures, often from clients who now regard them as part of their normal beauty maintenance program. Due to this amazing growth, like any industry that gains popularity quickly, issues, risks and pitfalls emerge soon after, and another area of this professional artform has emerged. To remain ahead of the game, technicians need to be informed, trained and proficient also in the area of cosmetic tattoo correction and camouflage. In addition to technical issues, matching client expectations is an important topic. As discussed by THink Aesthetics in the previous edition of APJ (Winter 2018, v.37), getting client expectations aligned with reality can be a challenge; what the client visualised and what they got can be significantly different. If this is the case, post treatment consultation usually identifies any concerns. But if the conversation never happens the technician may never know there is a problem, and it could end up all over Facebook! THink Aesthetics has seen more and more clients each month requesting correction, or removal of the work by other technicians. This is typically after they have not received the desired outcome with a procedure and it is common for a client not to want to return to the clinic or salon where they originally had the treatment. This is human nature; people typically want to avoid awkward situations or conflict. The fact that clients usually do not return to the original place of treatment is a problem for the industry. The original technician does not see the full ‘life cycle’ of their work and if they have in fact made a mistake, they do not get the chance to correct it. Unfortunately, the only indication the technician receives of a problem may be reduced bookings as word gets around. Of course, a problem with the outcome of a cosmetic tattoo procedure can be due to several things other than poor technique or mistakes by the technician. These may include: •
Equipment issues: these include substandard blades, or needle cartridges and poor machines (especially fakes). Note some fake (copy) machines are so poor they vibrate and carry on so much the technician hardly stands a chance of doing a great job.
Pigments issues: there is now a huge range of pigment brands on the market of varying quality, and a lot of fakes, (copies) just to further confuse the issue.
Inadequate lighting: including lighting that does not project true colour.
A difficult client: particularly if they insist on animated conversation during the treatment. Yes, that might be good therapy and relaxing for them, but this also means the facial expression is likely to change a lot, with the additional complication of the continuous distraction of the poor technician.
Specific issues related to the client’s physiology: for example, iron deficiency may lead to premature fading of the treatment, and the incredible variation in the type, nature and quality of human skin and how it is cared for can lead to a range of post-treatment pigment behaviours.
Poor aftercare by the client: (which is quite common); aftercare is so important but there is no guarantee the client will listen and remember what they are told is necessary after the treatment, or that they will read carefully what is on the salon aftercare instructions.
So what sort of issues commonly need correction? •
Brows that are the not the desired shape. This may be an original design issue, the challenges arising with an asymmetric face, a result of shape change due to the use of cosmetic injectables, or simply an error in execution.
The cosmetic tattoo is the ‘wrong colour’ or at least not the colour the client expected in the healed result.
Brows have healed too dark or developed an ashy grey colour due to the pigment being placed too deep.
Feather strokes have blurred together. This may be because the skin was too oily at the time of treatment, or the technician’s strokes (machine or blade) were on an angle.
Multiple treatments with adjustments to shape have left shadows from the previous work.
Depending on the issue, the question to start with is whether the concern can be corrected (usually preferable), or whether it is best to recommend removal and start fresh with a ‘blank canvas’.
At THink Aesthetics, most queries received from technicians are questions regarding colour correction:
To cover unwanted pigment, camouflage can be the best option in some circumstances. However, at THink Aesthetics it is recommended that facial tattooing issues are either colour corrected or removed. It is difficult to generate a naturallooking outcome from camouflaging pigment with pigment on the face. Sun exposure and other environmental factors can change the skin’s complexion affecting the results. When using camouflage pigments with a high concentration of titanium (common in pale pigments) the colour can go lighter over time, so caution is required.
“What can I do with a client whose brows are fading to red?”
“My client’s brows have gone grey, what can I do?”
As more and more technicians go through higher standards of training, dealing with these issues will become less common, and tackling them will be well understood by experienced technicians. Currently, being a technician that knows how to deal with these challenges can set you apart. Understanding colour and how pigments will look in the skin when healed is challenging for a lot of technicians. If a technician is artistically inclined and has mixed colours for art, this will provide a great start to understanding how colours work together, and nowhere is that more important than in cosmetic tattoo colour correction. Here we have three aspects to identifying how to achieve the final healed colour result: •
The client’s skin colour/Fitzpatrick type
The colour of the healed pigment already in the skin
The colour of the proposed new pigment.
A good test is to place the pigment on the client’s skin and wait 30 to 60 seconds for reflected light to show the true colour. One tool that should form an essential part of any cosmetic tattoo artist’s equipment is a colour wheel. Even a highly experienced cosmetic tattooist will refer to this from time-totime. The colour wheel will indicate what colour is needed to correct a red, violet or grey brow. In general terms the basic principles of colour mixing apply. For instance, if a pigment has turned red, then a blue-based pigment is required to create a brown result. If a pigment has turned blue, then a red or orange-based pigment is required to create a brown result. Grey, or ash healed colours typically require more pigment of the same type placed at a shallower depth.
2: Incorrect use of camouflage pigment on poor eyeliner work (pale patches) Camouflage pigments are typically best used to cover a mistake that occurs during treatment, or for work on nonfacial areas. Scars (including burn scars), hyperpigmentation, areola tattoo correction and the final stages of body art tattoo removal can all be treated with appropriate camouflage pigments. A range of skin coloured pigments are available such as those produced by Nouveau Contour http://www. nouveaucontour.com/internationalwebshop/product-catalog/ nouveau-contour-camouflage-pigments/ and Biotouch https://mbccosmetictattoo.com.au/product/bio-touch-purecamoflage-kit/. Techniques for camouflage (and correction) are usually taught in specialised classes due the wide range of techniques available, and even wider range of cosmetic tattoo procedures and skin types requiring treatment. If correction or camouflage are not applicable or appropriate, then consider removal.
REMOVAL – LASER TECHNIQUE In the formative days of THink Aesthetics, the growth industry of body art tattoo removal was expected to be a key focus for the business - it was one of the reasons for the birth of the name Think... about the ink. Well, that was before all the complications of body art tattoo pigment were researched and assessed by the team at THink. Removal of any pigment from the skin, be it body art or cosmetic tattooing, requires the pigment to go out of the skin, or be driven into the body. If it can be removed from the body, great, no further complications with where the pigment goes. If it goes into the body, where does it end up?
1: Ashy Grey Brow Correction to a Warm Brown: Pigment is added at shallower depth
There is a myth surrounding laser tattoo removal that it ‘shatters the molecules’. Nice idea, but for inorganic pigments based on iron or other metals such as titanium, the molecules do not shatter and simply ‘disappear’. With organic (synthetic carbon-based) pigments a laser may break them into smaller molecules, but there is a significant risk that these are toxic.
As described in “Tattoo Removal and Safety Considerations” (APJ Winter 2018, v.37, p.30), lasers drive the pigment into the body’s lymphatic system. There is now evidence that they come to rest in the lymph nodes and possibly other parts of the body. The long-term effects are unknown. If the pigment or colorant is iron-based then there is probably no adverse consequence (iron is essential to several bodily processes). If the original pigment contains organic compounds (synthetic carbon-based chemicals) then the effects of laser treatment are probably unknown, as are the consequences of having it released into the body. It is therefore important to know what the pigment you may be about to laser is made of. In addition to health risks, there are aesthetic considerations. For example, titanium dioxide, which is common in paler pigments and almost universal in lip pigments, will probably turn black when subjected to a laser.
solution is typically quite acidic (e.g. pH 3). THink Aesthetics has found Biotouch Colour Lift highly effective (https:// mbccosmetictattoo.com.au/product/bio-touch-colour-lift-forcorrection-camoflage/). The glycolic dissolves, or mobilises the pigment and pigment is typically removed during the treatment (again using a machine). Post treatment pigment removal will also occur as the foreign substance is rejected through the layers of the epidermis to the surface. Glycolic treatment should only be done a maximum of three times with a full healing period of around six weeks in between treatments. The client will need to understand that any removal procedure is going to be a journey, not a quick fix. Better results often occur with the second and third sessions, but the technician needs to be respectful of the degree of skin integrity.
The techniques for cosmetic tattoo removal then primarily revolve around taking the pigment out of the skin. There are various techniques available, but none as quick as a laser, and all have their pros and cons. In each case it is important to advise the client that a multiple stage process is usually involved to get the best results.
REMOVAL – LIQUID-BASED TECHNIQUES Research continues at THink Aesthetics, and variations on techniques are appearing all the time, but all involve the use of a liquid to unlock the pigment from the skin where it has been encapsulated by macrophages. In each case the liquid is introduced to the skin via needles in the same way the pigment was implanted originally (and preferably to the same depth). The mechanical action of the needles breaks down the encapsulation of the pigment to some extent and expose it to the liquid. The microperforations create pathways for pigment solutions to migrate out of the skin. There are three main techniques. Saline solutions provide a mild and gentle technique that is particularly effective on newer cosmetic tattooing where the pigment hasn’t aged in the skin. Saline solutions work using a process called osmosis. Solutions such as Nouveau Contour Pigment Remover (https://mbccosmetictattoo. com.au/product/nouveau-pigment-remover-30-ml/) contain very high concentrations of sea salts. When needled into skin the process of osmosis commences, which involves the equalisation of salt concentrations between the injected liquid and the pigment in the skin cells. Pigment is forced out of the cells and upward through the epidermal skin layers and gradually expelled to the surface.
4: “Fence Post Brows” needing removal
5: Biotouch Colour Lift Solution in action
6: The Healed Result - Ready for new brows
3: Biotouch Colour Lift (Glycolic) and Nouveau Pigment Remover (Saline) Glycolic-based removal solutions are often well suited to older pigment and very effective if the skin integrity is good and can take the stronger treatment. The glycolic
Lactic acid-based removal techniques work using similar principles to glycolic techniques. This was described in detail in the “Tattoo Removal and Safety Considerations” article. Lactic acid is quite a strong acid (pH 2.4, noting that hydrochloric acid has a pH of 2.0) and for the extensive amount of pigment required for removal of body art tattoos this may be the best approach. Care needs to be taken that the more delicate areas of facial skin are not traumatised if it is considered for cosmetic tattoo removal. With all liquid-based techniques it is particularly important
It can be confronting to be faced with a client, yours or previously someone else’s, who says they are not happy with their treatment result and they want it changed. It can take a technician well outside their comfort zone and introduce a range of technical issues they are not used to dealing with. That said, becoming known as a ‘go to’ technician for fixing up problems can set you apart from other technicians. that the skin is not over-worked with the needling process required to introduce the liquid into the skin. Some technicians will over-work the area to the extent that they are mechanically removing, or pulverising the epidermis to get to the base of the pigment. This can cause substantial skin trauma and significant scarring (not to mention lots of pain at the time!) The liquid should be doing the work once placed at the correct depth and the skin is adequately perforated to allow pigment migration.
STEPS TOWARD BECOMING AN EXPERT It can be confronting to be faced with a client, yours or previously someone else’s, who says they are not happy with their treatment result and they want it changed. It can take a technician well outside their comfort zone and introduce a range of technical issues they are not used to dealing with. That said, becoming known as a ‘go to’ technician for fixing up problems can set you apart from other technicians. Good training is essential. You can’t practice correction and camouflage the same way you practice brows and lips on a practice mat. Trial and error on clients who are already
unhappy is not an option, and if you are not sure what to do, either seek advice from a suitably experienced trainer of technician or tell the client you can’t help them. Good equipment is also essential. The complexities of a correction, camouflage, or removal procedure usually require the use of a machine, and this should be a good quality digital machine with precise needle strokes and a range of needle cartridge configurations available. Rotary machines, and to some extent blades, tend to rip and tear the skin and may results in irregular results and scarring. Liquid-based removal techniques present a range of options. Whether you try saline, glycolic or possibly lactic-acid based methods, it may be appropriate to conduct a test before attempting work on a larger area. With training and experience you will develop the confidence to know what will work best for more and more situations. APJ For further information and guidance on the techniques mentioned in this article, or for formal training please contact THink Aesthetics and speak to one of our experienced trainers or technicians. http://www. thinkaesthetics.com.au/
GAIN NATIONAL REGISTRATION FOR YOUR COSMETIC TATTOO QUALIFICATION Paving the way for national standard recognition and raising the standards in Cosmetic Tattooing APAN has established CTARP - a national registration process that allows qualified Cosmetic Tattoo practitioners to become accredited and recognised, differentiating them from non-qualified technicians.
CTARP REGISTRATION The Cosmetic Tattoo APAN Registered Practitioner (CPARP) is Australia’s leading recognition symbol for best practice in Cosmetic Tattooing.
CTARP PREREQUISITE REQUIREMENTS •
Must provide evidence of a nationally-approved qualification
Must provide evidence of SHBBINF001 Maintain Infection Control
Once your qualifications are validated and approved you will receive the following benefits: •
Cosmetic Tattooing Code of Ethics
CTARP Code of Conduct
Transparent CTARP Logo for business window or door
Included on the National Register
To retain your CTARP Registration you will need to maintain your professional development and adhere to the standards as set out by APAN and the CTARP registration requirements.
07 5593 0360| firstname.lastname@example.org| www.apanetwork.com
Instagram Made Easy By Trish Hammond
WITH BETWEEN 130 and 150 million users, Instagram is an image-sharing social media site and comes as a free, easyto-download app on your phone or electronic device from Android and iOS. It can be used by businesses to upload photos and promote products or services and engage with your target audience. The popularity of Instagram is growing so fast and every astute salon or clinic owner should invest in this platform if they want to increase their client base. However, there are a few things you should know to make your transition to Instagram easy.
SETTING UP YOUR ACCOUNT Once you’ve downloaded the app you will be prompted to create a profile. It is important to be clear and concise about who you, or your business are and what you offer. You may also want to add any contact details if you want people to be able to buy your services or products. You also should choose a really catchy profile pic - this can help to get people’s attention. Keep in mind that as a business you probably want your profile pic to instantly connect you with your business or services, eg. a logo or image that points to what your business offers etc.
KNOW YOUR AUDIENCE Studies have shown that Instagram users are primarily female between 18 and 36 years of age, although it is slowly becoming the more preferred social media platform for a wider demographic including many who engage with Facebook. You should also be clear on who you are trying to appeal to as your target audience and design your posts around them. You might want to check out another business in your industry with a large following and see what they’re doing.
MAKE IT INTERESTING Arousing emotion in your followers, whether it be empathy,
happiness, humour or anything else is a good thing. It will get likes and comments and entice more followers. Play around with the filters and effects Instagram offers, but keep it classy and not too gaudy. Make it interesting, colourful and engaging. It’s ok to post lifestyle shots here and there but important to keep your posts largely relevant to your business. Don’t leave it for too long in between posts - be regular and reliable.
BE SOCIAL – INTERACT WITH YOUR FOLLOWERS Making your followers feel heard and valued cannot be underestimated! Engage with your audience and make them feel as though they are a part of your Instagram family.
KEEP UP WITH THE LATEST INSTAGRAM TRENDS INCLUDING #hashtags Hashtags are a great way to have your business discovered and increase your engagement and followers, however don’t go too crazy with them. Keep them reasonably relevant to your business and use hashtags to connect with other relevant businesses, topics or movements. Make it your business to know what the latest and hottest APAN is conducting hashtags are. INSTAGRAM MADE EASY Other Instagram Workshops with Trish trends include Hammond. These are oneShoutouts, Photo day intensive, interactive and Video Sharing and Promotional workshops that will allow Contests. you to master this amazing
HAVE FUN! Most importantly, if you’re having fun with your Instagram then hopefully your audience will be too!. APJ
tool and walk away with an INSTAGRAM PLAN ready to launch or to improve your client engagement. For a workshop near you please contact APAN call 07 5593 0360 or info@ apanetwork.com with your expression of interest.
HOW IS THE COSMETIC TATTOO INDUSTRY MEASURING UP? Whether you wish to gain a nationallyaccredited government-approved qualification, or continue to master your Cosmetic Tattooing techniques, THink Aesthetics is your answer. THink Aesthetics is a leading Registered Training Organisation (45188) and exclusive, Cosmetic Tattooing training specialists. Committed to best practice, their training is delivered by educators who are skilled in the most recent and up-to-date global trends and advanced techniques â€“ bringing worldstandards to you.
Our cosmetic tattoo supplier arm - THink MBC, has the sole Australian distribution rights for leading international brands: Nouveau Contour (Holland), Biotouch (USA), Karen Betts (UK) and Ecuri (Holland, for scalp pigments). THink only uses and supplies the most advanced equipment and best quality products that meet with the highest European and international standards.
07 3300 0465 email@example.com www.thinkaesthetics.com.au
BRING HOTEL LUXURY TO YOUR SALON OR CLINIC WITH SPA LUXURY BED SET Presentation is everything! Spring Spa Wear has designed a luxury bedding set made specifically to fit all treatment beds and lift the presentation of your room to another level. The only spa bed luxury quilt and matching pillow case set available in Australia. As soon as you touch the soft hotel-grade fabric you will see why this beautiful range is the epitome of luxury with minimal fuss as they can be washed in cold water, tumble dried on low heat and require no ironing. Available in three stunning spa inspired designs. This set includes Quilt and matching Pillowcase. Made specifically to fit our spa treatment beds - not too big not too small and no overhang on the bed corners 220cm x 150cm. Colours include: Silver/grey, Aqua/grey or Black/taupe. Visit www.springspawear.com.au for further details.
PRODUCT NEW JANE IREDALE INNOVATIONS TRIPLE LUXE – Long-Lasting naturally Moist Lipstick. New from jane iredale the skincare makeup comes a new just launched amazing lipstick collection that includes 15 lip-loving, long-lasting shades. Triple Luxe Long Lasting Naturally Moist Lipstick™ offers richly-pigmented colour in a breakthrough “Triple” formula that’s long-lasting, natural and moisturising. They are also vegan and cruelty free. Team these with PureGloss Lip Gloss – three new shades also just launched. Treat lips to luscious lipgloss shades that soothe, hydrate and nourish the lips for a fresh, pretty look. Now available in three new shades: Cherries Jubilee (cherry red), Rose Crush (cool pink) and Very Berry (plum). HandDrink Hand Cream is a skin-quenching formula with SPF 15 broad spectrum sunscreen that is ultrahydrating and never greasy. The new scent includes Lemongrass Oils to refresh and revive skin, while protecting, moisturising and replenishing the skin. Contact Margifox Distributors 1300 850 008. or visit margifox.com.au APJ 34
activated charcoal, volcanic sand from Iceland for its exfoliation properties and thermal water and calming hamamilis water for soothing and works to purify and detox skin under attach from pollutants and other factors.
MYMASK EARTH COLLECTION BY SKEYNDOR There’s a hot, new crop of skin treats in town, they’re the most buzzed-about masks in Europe and no surprise, they sold out in 3 days! Made with the best good-for-your-skin ingredients, they work in just five minutes and come with their own sponge. These three new masks from Skeyndor are instant sellers. They are fun to wear but have a serious side. They combat woes and improve the skin’s condition BIG TIME. •
MyMask FRUIT MASK - Illuminating is a deliciously spreadable-textured mask offering a gentle peeling effect, thanks to its cocktail of AHAs in the form of plant and fruit extracts including blueberries, orange, lemon, maple, sugar cane and strawberry seeds. Removing dead surface cells for a lit-from-within-glow, while minimising the appearance of wrinkles and dark spots.
MyMask FRESH SORBET, Hydrating – It’s refreshing and light-as-air feel, drenches the skin in moisture, relieves tight, uncomfortable sensations to renew and leave the skin supple and deeply nourished. Sublimely pampering, soothing and hydrating, it combines a unique osmoregulatory, moisturising betaine, pristine Norwegian glacial water, magnesium aspartate to transport nutrients to cells, zinc, copper and precious malachite extract, a power+ anti-oxidant.
Gain the most from nature in just 5-minutes with the SKEYNDOR MyMask Earth Collection. Call 1 800 554 545 or visit skeyndoraustralia.com.au
MyMask DARK CHARCOAL - Purifying – its formula of
INNOVATIONS UNIQCURE BY SKEYNDOR Each woman’s beauty is different, each is unique as are her skincare needs. After over 50 years of continuous innovation and deep knowledge of the skin, SKEYNDOR offers an advanced beauty solution specific and effective for all skin concerns. Eight different high-tech ampoules for eight specific skin needs. Designed to enhance aesthetic benefits and bring your results to the next level. UNIQCURE by SKEYNDOR have more than 35 active ingredients, all clinically-proven and created with SKEYNDOR technology for extraordinary results on the skin, down to its deepest layers. Available in packs of seven 2mls vials, an excellent in-salon or take-home product to boost results. Each concentrate comes with its own ampoule opener and a resealable application lid so each ampoule can be used twice a day for a seven-day skin boost. For further details call 1 800 554 545 or visit skeyndoraustralia.com.au.
DR. ANNE-MARIE’S DERMAL CARE The sourcing of Australian natives and the manufacturing of Dr Anne-Marie’s Dermal Care skincare range makes these products uniquely Australian. The combination of specific active ingredients, work in synergy to produce the desired outcome for each skin type. Each ingredient was carefully chosen for its multifaceted performance on the skin and to counteract the damaging effects of the sun, pollution and to fight free-radical damage. The range is formulated to detoxify, moisturise, hydrate and rejuvenate the skin and prevent glycation that leads to premature lines and wrinkles. The formulation also includes natural sources of vitamins and enzymes that assist in the removal of dead skin cells, enhancing the regeneration of new cells resulting in a more youthful, glowing skin. Continual use of these products will result in a brighter, vibrant complexion with a toned and youthful appearance. Dr Anne-Marie’s Dermal Care formulations are: Australian-made and also packaged in Australia. They are cruelty-free (not tested on animals), Vegan, 100% Certified Organic ingredients and all key actives are of Australian origin. To stock Dr Anne-Marie’s Dermal Care phone 0403 846 622 Info@dramdermalcare. com.au www.amdermalcare.com.au
PRODUCT CELLBONE LAUNCHES SNAIL REPAIR ESSENCE New research is validating the benefits of snail repair in improving skin hydration, while protecting the skin through its antimicrobial properties. Rich in hyaluronic acid, snail mucus also offers incredible hydrating properties. Cellbone has harnessed its benefits in their Snail Repair Essence, which untilise snail secretion filtrate fortified with additional extracts such as Rose Water, Panthenol, Copper peptide, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide and Astaxanthin – the strongest anti-oxidant found in nature. Cellbone Snail Repair Essence is the ultimate serum for boosting hydration levels and cell-renewal. It offers additional benefits such as protection from free radical damage, as well as enhancing collagen and elastin renewal. Give your skin the “escarglow” with this amazing formula. Contact Cosmedicell Technologies 07 5580 0403, E: firstname.lastname@example.org
FOR THE SPECIAL CARE OF THE EYES Dr Anne-Marie’s Dermal Care provides two gentle innovative formulations specifically for eyecare. The Eye Gel is a fusion of Aloe Vera, Cucumber Oil and Marine Collagen to soothe and moisturise the skin. The addition of antioxidant-rich Green Tea, Sea Buckthorn oil and Witch Hazel provide perfect care, hydrating, toning and offering anti-ageing benefits to fight lines and wrinkles, while soothing the delicate skin. Complementing the Eye Gel, the soothing Eye Cream is infused with special oils of Cucumber, Jojoba Oil, Shea Butter, Avocado, Kakadu Plum Extract and Macadamia Oils to aid in reducing puffiness, strengthening capillary walls and aiding in the reduction of dark circles around the delicate eye area. To stock Dr Anne-Marie’s Dermal Care please phone 0403 846 622, Info@ dramdermalcare.com.au www.amdermalcare.com.au
INNOVATIONS NANOSOME COPPER PEPTIDE SERUM Cellbone’s Nanosome Copper Peptide Serum is an amazing product that offers incredible benefits suitable for all skin types. It helps to recapture the skin’s natural elasticity by stimulating the production of both collagen and elastin defending the skin against sagging and fine lines. Copper peptide is a powerful antioxidant and can lessen the appearance of scar tissue and also offers proven healing and calming benefits to stressed skin, so it is excellent for post-invasive skin treatments to settle and repair the skin. Nanosome Copper Peptide Serum contains Liquorice extract to fight pigmentation, Melon extract, rich in vitamins A, B and C, as well as Centella Asiatica, which contains abundant amino acids, betacarotene, fatty acids and phytochemicals. This super blend of powerful nutrients offers great anti-ageing benefits to repair and support skin health. Contact Cosmedicell Technologies 07 5580 0403, E: email@example.com
FROM CLAIRDERM The GP Fastlight IPL from Clairderm Medical Aesthetics is fast and powerful, combining quality and cost-effectiveness for safe, comfortable and results-driven treatment outcomes. The double cooling system allows power levels of up to 35J/ cm2 for unrivalled effectives, while cooling the skin to reduce patient discomfort and reddening for a risk-free and comfortable treatment. The extra-large spot size reduces treatment time and the range of five, interchangeable filters in one handpiece allow for specific targeted treatments from hair removal, photo-regeneration, vascular to acne therapy. To customise treatments innovative Photo Derma Chrome technology (PDC) detects the exact shade of the skin’s colours and selects the most suitable program. This innovation is part of Clairderm’s commitment to driving your clinic’s success with expert technology. For more information, contact Clairderm Medical Aesthetics on 1300 781 239 or firstname.lastname@example.org and visit us on www. medicalbeautyequipment.com
PRODUCT INNOVATIONS THE POWER OF RESVERATROL The benefits of Resveratrol are both significant and numerous, validated by scientific studies. Resveratrol Nanocell Serum by Cellbone offers amazing benefits in revitalising the skin improving the appearance of fine lines, as well as improving skin tone and lifting and firming sagging skin. Resveratrol is also a very powerful antioxidant defending the skin against free radicals. Cellbone’s Resveratrol Nanocell Serum also contains a powerful combination of actives such as Aloe Vera Juice, Nanosome Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-3, Melon Extract, Resveratrol Ferment Extract 5%, Human Oligopeptide-3, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Alpha Arbutin, Centella Asiatica Extract Scientists in a study (https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih. gov/pubmed/21348544 ) confirm the benefits of resveratrol on acne indicating a decrease of acne by 54% in just 60 days. Acne skin conditions can benefit from this serum containing 5% Resveratrol. Contact Cosmedicell Technologies 07 5580 0403, E: email@example.com Editor’s Note: Some of the ingredients in Cellbone products in the previous issue of APJ were misspelt. These have been corrected and we apologise for any inconvenience.
PROTECTED SKIN is HEALTHY SKIN THE SKIN is the largest organ of the body and is often the last one we worry about. Regular exposure to the sun can result in sun-damage, solar keratosis photo-ageing and in extreme cases, skin cancer. It’s never too late to protect your skin Australia has one of the highest rates of skin cancer and premature photoageing in the world because of the skin’s exposure to harmful UV radiation. UVA rays, the dominant tanning ray, penetrate the skin deeper than UVB rays, damaging the skin’s DNA, collagen and elastin. This leads to photo-ageing and potentially skin cancer. UVB rays, the chief cause of skin reddening and sunburn penetrate the superficial epidermal skin layers playing a key role in the development of skin cancer. Sunscreen offers the first line of defence against harmful UV radiation by either absorbing or reflecting it. Applying an SPF50+ sunscreen every day as well as after procedures like IPL, laser, peels, dermal skin needling and
Clairderm’s microdermabrasion will help protect the skin and maintain results.
this, select a sunscreen that is fastabsorbing, extra light, moisturising with no traces of stickiness and oiliness.
Choosing the right sunscreen is essential The ability of a sunscreen to offer the following key benefits should be carefully considered when selecting a product: SPF 50+ for maximum protection: Broad spectrum protection to ensure protection against UVA and UVB; invisible coverage and a matte finish. There’s nothing worse than a sunscreen that leaves the skin shiny and white after application. It should offer invisible protection and no ghosting on the skin making it perfect to use under make-up and over serums. It also needs to be fast-absorbing, extra light and moisturising. Most people, especially those who have oily skin and prone to breakouts, hate the feel of a thick, oily and sticky sunscreen that takes “forever” to rub in. This tempts them to skip applying a sunscreen every day. To help prevent
Taking these key benefits into consideration Clairderm Medical Aesthetics has developed TGA Approved Clairderm Broad Spectrum SPF50+Moisturising Daily Defence Sunscreen Lotion. It has been specially formulated for everyday use and for pre and post-treatment care to help optimise treatment results. It offers SPF50+ broad spectrum UVA and UVB protection and is fast-absorbing and extra light, offering invisible coverage, a matte finish and leaving no traces of oiliness, stickiness or ghosting. This makes it ideal to use under makeup and over serums. In addition, it’s fragrancefree, suitable for all skin types and helps to leave the skin feeling soft, supple and moisturised. For more information on this exciting new product and our amazing introductory offer contact 1300 781 239 or firstname.lastname@example.org
THE HEALTH AND BEAUTY BENEFITS OF GRAPESEED OIL By Eva Boyd I LOVE THE FEEL AND TEXTURE of grapeseed oil, particularly when used as a massage oil for body treatments. It is delicate and odourless and blends really well with essential oils without disturbing the end aroma. But there are other numerous benefits to this oil that are worth investigating. So, let’s look at its nutrient content both for internal use, as well as for topical application, and any precautions for consideration. Grapeseed oil is a by-product of winemaking. Grapes themselves are packed with nutrients, especially certain types of antioxidants — which is why wine, especially red wine that supplies resveratrol can be beneficial in small to moderate amounts. But how about oil made from the seeds of grapes? It’s not exactly the same thing — and not beaming with the same vitamins, resveratrol, dietary fibre or “proanthocyanidins.” Taken internally, grapeseed oil does have some positive attributes and nutrients to offer, but at the end of the day, it lacks in vitamin K, vitamin C, copper and potassium compared to eating actual grapes. However, there are some attractive qualities of grapeseed oil to consider. Here are several reasons why grapeseed oil isn’t always as bad as some portray it to be.
VERY HIGH IN PUFA OMEGA-6S, ESPECIALLY LINOLEIC ACIDS As the University of Maryland Medical Centre points out, “there are several different types of omega-6 fatty acids and not all promote inflammation.” A very high percentage of the omega-6 fatty acids we get come from various vegetable oils, which usually include high levels of linoleic acid (LA). LA is converted to gamma-linolenic acid (GLA) once we digest it, and GLA can have protective roles in the body. GLA might be able to lower cholesterol levels and inflammation in some cases, especially when it’s converted to yet another molecule called DGLA. One study published in the International Journal of Food Science and Nutrition even found that compared to other vegetable oils like sunflower oil, the consumption of grapeseed oil was much more beneficial for lowering inflammation and insulin resistance in overweight or obese females.
According to results from high-performance liquid chromatography tests, the chemical composition of grapeseed oil is identified as: •
arachidonic 0.6% acids
The highest percentage of fatty acid in grapeseed oil, which is linoleic acid, is a type of essential fat — meaning we can’t make it on our own and must obtain it from food. Interestingly enough, animals who consume linoleic acid turn it into conjugated linoleic acid (CLA) in their guts, and CLA (found primarily in saturated fat sources like grass-fed beef and raw cow’s milk) has been shown to help with weight loss, reducing cancer, cardiovascular disease, osteoporosis and other benefits.
GOOD SOURCE OF VITAMIN E One of the greatest positives about grapeseed oil is its abundant content of vitamin E, which is an important antioxidant. Compared to olive oil, offers double the vitamin E. This is huge, because vitamin E benefits immunity greatly, as well as several other important bodily functions.
ZERO TRANS FAT AND NON-HYDROGENATED There might still be some debate as to which ratios of different fatty acids are best, but there is no debate about the dangers of trans fats and hydrogenated fats that we find in processed food, which is why they should be avoided. Trans fats are commonly found in fast food, packaged snacks and fried foods. The evidence is so clear that they’re bad for our health that they’re even being banned in some cases now, and many large food manufacturers are committing to moving away from using them for good.
HIGH SMOKE POINT COMPARED TO OTHER VEGETABLE OILS
PUFAs are not usually the best choice for cooking because APJ 40
they’re known to oxidise easily and become “toxic.” However, grapeseed oil has a moderately higher smoke point than olive oil, or certain other PUFA vegetable oils.
WHEN CAN GRAPESEED OIL BE UNHEALTHY? The fatty acid composition of grape seed oil is where things really get controversial. By now you know that grapeseed oil is very high in polyunsaturated fats, but keep in mind that there are different kinds of PUFAs: omega-3s, omega-6s and omega-9s. Since most of the fatty acids in grapeseed’s are polyunsaturated, this can be considered good and bad, depending on who you ask. While many governing health authorities consider PUFAs to be healthy, while they still shame quality sources of saturated fats, there’s agreeance from everyone that the balance, or ratio between different fats is what’s really important. An abundance of omega-6s in the diet compared to other fatty acids (omega-3s especially) is problematic because this increases inflammation levels. It’s easy for grapeseed oil manufacturers and marketers to promote their product as being healthy because it’s very low in saturated fat and high in unsaturated fats, but given the information we know today about how fats are actually used in the body, this isn’t a very strong selling point. For decades, saturated fats were given a bad name, but today, we know that some saturated fat (such as the kind found in coconut oil or butter) is essential for overall health — and what we really need to be concerned about is consuming far too much proinflammatory omega-6s. If we compare the amount of omega-6s in grapeseed oil to other vegetable oils, we find that grapeseed has one of the highest levels. Here are how different oils stack up: •
Grapeseed oil: 70 per cent omega-6 PUFA
Sunflower oil: 68 per cent
Corn oil: 54 per cent
Soybean oil: 51 per cent
Canola oil: 19 per cent
BENEFICIAL TO HAIR AND SKIN Aside from consuming grapeseed oil, grapeseed oil is often used in cosmetic formulations because of its high vitamin E content and because it is loaded with moisturising fatty acids. According to the Linus Pauling Institute, omega-6 and omega-3 fatty acids are crucial to skin function and appearance. And omega-6 fatty acids are necessary for skin barrier functioning. Specifically, linolenic acid present abundantly in grapeseed oil. Linolenic acid also plays a role in reducing skin inflammation in the middle and outer layers. Other reasons grapeseed oil is used are to: •
tighten the appearance of pores
reduce the appearance of scars
USED AS A MASSAGE OIL As mentioned previously, grapeseed oil is an excellent massage oil, not just because of its nutritional benefits, but also because of its light texture and its very light aroma that allows it to be blended with essential oils if desired.
QUALITY IS IMPORTANT Whether applied on the skin or ingested it is best to access cold-pressed or expeller-pressed grapeseed oil, which is the healthier option. This will ensure that your vitamin E and its antioxidant effect is at its optimum, as when extraction is performed chemically many of the nutrients are destroyed. APJ
For a list of references, please contact the editor.
The omega-3s and omega-6s we get from our diets basically compete with one another. In the body, they both undergo chemical conversions in order to be turned into different molecules that have various roles. Omega-6s and omega-3s are needed for brain function, metabolism, neurotransmitter function and more. Omega-6s aren’t bad by nature; people just seem to get too much of them for their own good. Different authorities recommend different ratios of omega-3s to omega-6s (such as 1:1 or up to 10:1), but most accept that higher omega-3 intake is correlated with better health. For example, in the Mediterranean diet, the level of omega-6 fatty acids, is much lower than in the standard Australian diet. The Mediterranean diet has been tied to better heart health, weight management and cognitive functioning into older age. People living in the Mediterranean usually eat a diet very low in factory farm-raised animal products, refined vegetable oils and packaged snacks loaded with omega-6s.
NETWORKING AT ITS BEST SYDNEY GREETED US with a beautiful sunny day as APAN launched its Conference program at the Pullman - Hyde Park on Monday 13th August 2018.
He shared several behavioural strategies to improve staff productivity enabling them to hit targets more consistently through a gentle, yet highly effective approach.
The event kicked off to a good start as Joanna Melas introduced special sound and lighting touches creating a welcoming and warm environment.
Connecting the Dots – Top Strategies to Build your Brand in Disrupted Times was the topic addressed by Gill Fish – founder and director of 6AM Agency. Gill also shared valuable information on designing and delivering a costeffective yet powerful social media campaign. She stressed the importance of quality content with a targeted focus and language that will appeal to your target audience. She also discussed how various age groups respond to different messages that relates to their needs and interests.
Our first speaker Phillip Fernandez presented an amazing lecture on Extraordinary Leadership for Everyday Managers. Phillip delighted the audience as he shared the latest principles, backed by neuroscience that facilitate improvement in communication and engagement, both with staff, as well as enhancing meaningful client interaction and ultimately, successful business outcomes.
Gill also discussed the famous Simon Sinek’s Golden Circle principle that challenges the traditional approach of
marketing. She urged business owners and managers to prioritise the emotive WHY you do what you do rather than presenting first WHAT you do and what is on offer. Ann Bolton, Senior Policy Analyst from the Environmental Health Branch in NSW gave a thorough Update on NSW Health Regulations as they relate to the various procedures within our industry. Her lecture was greatly appreciated as it gave greater clarity to some areas that may be considered less clear. After lunch Joanna Melas presented two beautiful heartfelt songs which she has actually written that the delegates enjoyed and swayed to. This special touch was a refreshing moment following lunch as the second part of the program was about to be introduced. Jacine Greenwood covered an in-depth lecture on PostInflammatory Hyperpigmentation – Diagnosis and Solutions, bringing light to active ingredients that can benefit this condition and others that should be avoided as they can contribute adversely to pigmentation. Chris Testa then addressed some updates on Anaesthetics and the Safety Imperative – a very popular topic that was much appreciated by both delegates and exhibitors. Working collaboratively with Chris, APAN is pursuing to improve education and regulatory compliance, while also establishing a plan for a regulatory Case for Change to present to the various State jurisdictions. APAN will be presenting evidence on how appropriate education can ensure consumer safety,
while facilitating a more workable solutions for the current industry practices. The conference was concluded by a panel of experts who discussed the current industry changes both in consumer demand and the availability of qualifications. Transitioning from Beauty Therapy to Skin and Age-Management was the topic. The forum consisted of Gay Wardle, Helene Gerasimou, Nancy Abdou, Rita Massimo and Danielle Hughes who was invited to also take part in the panel. Tina Viney stated that the responsibility of an industry body is to provide leadership. It must provide support and nurture to its members, as well as challenge them to continue to grow. APAN is mindful not only of who their members currently are, but also who they can become to better reflect technological advances as well as accommodate the ever-changing consumer needs. APJ MARK THESE DAYS FOR NEXT YEAR AS THE APAN CONFERENCE WILL BE HELD ON THE GOLD COAST MONDAY 27TH MAY AND MELBOURNE MONDAY 12TH AUGUST. 2019 will bring another change in format with the expansion of the number of lectures presented to also include special “problem-solving” solutions for practitioners. We believe this will bring a stronger practical element to the conference, expanding the educational experience for all concerned. Visit www. apanconf.com for further details.
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SETTING THE BAR HIGHER IN COSMETIC PROCEDURES
GOLD COAST PARAMEDICAL TRADITIONALLY, aesthetics is a female-dominant profession, nevertheless, not exclusively. With our emerging gender-equality culture we are seeing a growing number of males stepping out to explore a career path in Dermal Therapies and in particular, light-based therapies. David Adamson is a qualified dermal therapist who takes his career and practice very seriously. He is highly committed and passionate in delivering exceptional
quality treatment outcomes for his ever-growing clientele. Together with Katherine McCann, they set up Gold Coast Paramedical, a cosmetic skin clinic in the heart of the Gold Coast that is making waves as a bespoke cosmetic clinic. As an APAN member, it is our privilege to interview David in this issue of APJ Journal as we uncover what led him to pursue a career path in this industry.
APJ Q1: David, can you share with us a little about your professional background and why you transitioned into the aesthetics industry? I had an unusual ‘lead up’ to joining the aesthetics industry. Initially I worked in Project Management in the construction industry for over 30 years and over five years lecturing in management at QUT. The construction industry at that time was quite demotivating with industrial union activity spoiling even the best laid plans, so I took the opportunity of a voluntary redundancy to change my life! Someone suggested that ‘light therapy’ was a burgeoning industry and so I resolved to buy some machines and attempt to ‘master’ the aesthetics industry. Remembering that I was looking for a ‘complete change of lifestyle’ and discovering that I could not get insurance for my practice offering light therapies without qualifications in skin types and skin conditions, I enrolled in a Diploma of Beauty. In those days both the formal academic qualifications and the regulations applicable for light therapies (IPL and Laser) were lagging well behind the industry practice. I remember being appalled just how easy it was (and in many states still is) to join the light therapy industry. I found a significant difference in satisfaction and motivation in the aesthetics industry when compared with the construction industry. After 30 plus years of struggle to please my clients in the face of ridiculously tight budgets and/or unionised industrial action and/or poorquality tradespersons, my new aesthetics clients were effusive in their praise of my treatments. It was easy to transition to this very rewarding arena. My nature is that of wanting to excel in everything I do and so as the academic qualifications became available I enrolled first into the Dermal Therapy course at The Australasian Academy of Cosmetic Dermal Science in 2009 and then into the Victoria University’s Associate Degree in Dermal Therapies in 2011. I then also completed the Graduate Certificate in Intense Pulse Light and Laser Hair Reduction in 2012. More recently in 2017 I have completed the 10038NAT Graduate Certificate in Cosmetic Laser and Light Therapies. APJ Q2: How would you describe your professional identity and how do you maintain the currency of knowledge? Prior to joining the Aesthetics industry, I also completed a Masters of Business Administration (MBA). This degree taught me so much about how to clearly identify the problem before attempting to solve anything. From that time onward, I attempted to drill down to the ‘science’ behind both the problem and the solution. This was not so easy where the human body is concerned as there is so much we don’t know. Nevertheless, I embarked on a self-education process by attending medical anti-ageing conferences in both Australia and in the USA every year for the past 10 years. These conferences are attended by medicos and specialists from all over the world and served to boost my knowledge of the functioning of the human body, which guided me in the body’s response to my Dermal Therapy treatments. These conferences not only helped to keep me current in the science of my treatments, but to keep me current with the available equipment to conduct the treatments. I attended every year for the past 10 years, the COSMOPROF Aesthetics Exhibition in Hong Kong. This is one of the largest exhibitions of Aesthetics-related products/equipment and processes in the world today. I am a regular attendee at the COSMOPROF Aesthetics Exhibition in the USA as well, but this is by no means as extensive as Hong Kong.
APJ Q3: With all this knowledge gained from attending international conferences and exhibitions have you been able to disseminate this in any way? I really enjoy teaching. Having honed this skill at QUT, when I joined the beauty industry in 2003 I spent many years lecturing not only at the vocational level for the Diploma of Beauty Therapy and the Graduate Certificate in IPL and Laser Hair Reduction, but also at the Higher Education level in light therapies including Laser and IPL. APJ Q4: Describe your average client and what do you believe they are looking for in order to trust you? The term ‘average client’ is a difficult one. For sure, 95% of my clients are female, but their ages can vary from 20 to 80. I offer IPL treatments for hair reduction, as well as vascular and pigmentation treatments. I also offer CO2 Laser for fractional skin rejuvenation and Q-Switched Laser services for tattoo removal, therefore the ages of my clients vary considerably, depending on the desired treatment. For example, the younger ones are generally wanting hair reduction and the older clients are more into the skin rejuvenation. I also offer ultrasound body contouring (sculpting), micro-needling, microdermabrasion and a full range of chemical peels. APJ Q5: Do you believe that being a male practitioner has posed any challenges for you? The response to my gender has always been positive from my clients, if they consider it at all. Most do not. I conducted a survey about 10 years ago regarding exactly this question and the overwhelming response was that the clients did not care about gender, but did care about effective treatments. Interestingly, I did find some resistance at first from industry practitioners, who mistakenly believed my clients would have a problem with my gender, however this just spurred me on to become the best at what I do, while offering superior service and treatment outcomes. In recent years there has been no challenges at all in my being a male practitioner, but rather overwhelming support and encouragement. Q6: What advice would you give someone starting out wanting to be a Dermal Therapist? I would recommend to pursue what lights the fire in your belly. I wholeheartedly encourage those budding professionals seeking to become a Dermal Therapist to invest wisely in their education and ensure that they love what they do, as this will drive not only their career trajectories, but also add value to a dynamic and exciting emerging industry. APJ Dynamic duo David Adamson and business partner Katherine McCann teamed up in 2017 and later founded and built their bespoke cosmetic skin clinic. Centrally located, Gold Coast Paramedical provides resultorientated treatments, services and solutions for clients on the Gold Coast and beyond. David and Katherine are both award-winning practitioners with extensive experience in their respective field and have trained locally and internationally and both carry tertiary and post-graduate qualifications. Katherine and David are committed to the very highest standards and levels of professionalism and practice and are ongoing active industry contributors. For further information call (07) 5564 8799 or visit www.gcparamedical.com
PHYT’S LAUNCHES NEW INNOVATIVE
BIO-ACTIVE SLIMMING SYSTEM SPRING IS UPON US and as the layers of winter clothes are shed, those physical imperfections will start to emerge and cry out for help! PHYT’S have the perfect solution to help your client regain their confidence. Just launched and in time for summer comes PHYT’s Bio-Active Slimming range — a safe, non-invasive, proven effective 3-step body care system to slim and tone targeted areas, such as hips, midriff, waist, arms, thighs and knees. Excess weight is a common phenomenon in Australia and while the focus may be on physical training and dieting, there is always those stubborn spots that are slow to respond. On the other hand, loose skin can result due to fat-loss from the subcutaneous tissue and spot-reduction in ‘resistant’ areas remain problematic for many. At a time when many consumers are turning away from invasive surgical procedures, or questioning the safety and environmental impact of products used on a daily basis, PHYT’S brings peace of mind and spectacular results to individuals wanting to slim down and diminish the appearance of cellulite. When fat loss is to be targeted at specific areas, one safe and effective solution is the use of natural lipolytic agents applied to these areas. The proprietary complex present in PHYT’S Bio-Active Slimming range boosts lipolysis, safely releasing subcutaneous fat, thinning the fat layer, and also reducing cellulite, with results visible within 28 days.
PHYT’S Bio Active is a 3-step slimming system that involves: •
EXFOLIATION: Exfoliant Tonic, (exfoliating body scrub) a cocktail of tonifying, stimulating natural active ingredients. Exfoliant Tonic eliminates dead skin cells and impurities and protects the skin’s hydrolipidic film, while preparing for the next step.
LIPOLYTIC ACTION: Expert Cellulite is a triple-action Caffeine and Pink Pepper gel with proven lipolytic action. Applied morning and night, it improves the skin’s natural elasticity, firms, tones and promotes youthful-looking contours by reducing the skin’s ‘orange peel’ appearance.
CHRONOLOGICAL FIRMING BOOSTER: Chrono-Stimulateur, a safe, but potent synergy of two pioneered ingredients known for their dual action on cell metabolism: fat burning during the day and fat storage prevention at night.
The PHYT’S Bio-Active Slimming trio is recommended to slim down stubborn areas, especially in the hips, midriff, waist, arms and knees. It is proven effective on its own at resolving unsightly cellulite and stubborn fat for most body shapes and cellulite type and can be enhanced even further with the addition of concern specific products targeting stretch marks, bust tonicity, heavy legs, water-retention and more. Studies confirm the combination of actives in the Phyt’s Bio-Active Slimming system delivers measurable results using a safe, but powerful formulation. Details of studies confirming affective transformation in women with excess body fat within 28 days of use are available on www.phyts.com.au (Actives extracted from 100% natural and certified organic ingredients: Natural Caffeine, Pink Pepper, Red Vine, Green Tea, Guarana, Papaya, Coralline Algae, Horse Chestnut, Pine, Meadow-Sweet extracts and Alpha-Tocopherol). Get your clients ready for the summer with PHYT’S Bio-Active System.
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STUDY INNOVATIVE TECHNOLOGIES IN DERMAL AESTHETICS BACHELOR OF HEALTH SCIENCE (Aesthetics)
Learn a diverse range of dermal treatments, and practice in real clinics using the latest state of the art equipment.
APPLY NOW torrens.edu.au/beauty-courses Torrens University Australia courses are delivered by Torrens University Australia Ltd, APJ 50 ABN 99 154 937 005, RTO 41343, CRICOS 03389E.
LOVE W HAT YOU DO
THE AESTHETICS INDUSTRY DEMANDS GRADUATES WITH HIGHER-LEVEL QUALIFICATIONS
THE PATHWAY to a rewarding professional career in the Aesthetics industry lies in education. It is no longer enough for practitioners to rely purely on experience to build their career in beauty and health. They need formal, comprehensive and up-to-date professional knowledge to ensure the best outcomes for their clients, pursue a long-term professional career and be at this forefront of this fast-paced industry. High-level degree education is helping to advance the careers of qualified professionals entering the Aesthetic, Health and Wellness, and Medi-spa environments. Students who undertake degree courses gaining the advantages of research skills and higher-level learning as well as practical, hands-on experience with industry partners to future-proofing their careers. As graduates, they go on to develop and incorporate new technologies and innovations into their professional practice, contributing to the advancement of the field of Aesthetics. At Torrens University, the Bachelor of Health Science (Aesthetics) program students graduate as professionals with high-quality scientific training. The degree, developed in consultation with Anhembi Morumbi University – a leading university in Brazil and innovator in advanced aesthetic technologies – is based on application of techniques solid ethical and scientific foundations. The course prepares practitioners in the theory of and therapies in the Aesthetics, Dermal and Wellness fields, and students benefit from experience with real clients in real clinics. Gaining academic skills enables graduates to broaden their scope of practice. They gain the opportunity to contribute to future research and be involved in developing industry trends. Graduates are better placed to review, analyse, justify and ensure their ongoing commitment to their discipline, through formal and informal learnings.
An industry perspective on a career in aesthetics Dr Pei Thompson Gbatu, MEpi, MS, PhD is a consultant, research scientist and educator with more than 15 years’ experience in academia and private industry. He is currently the CEO and founder of Delphinus Consulting LLC, based in Minneapolis, Minnesota, USA. His expertise includes analytical chemistry, clinical epidemiology and technical writing. Dr Gbatu has endorsed the Bachelor of Health Science (Aesthetics) program at Torrens University, as he believes that aspiring practitioners of Aesthetics will be well-prepared and served by this degree. “Aesthetics invokes a wholesome image of beauty, expressed through elegance, symmetry and overall pleasantness,” says Dr Gbatu. He describes the practice of Aesthetics as applying evidencebased scientific principles, as well as human social and cultural interactions, to bring the image of beauty into focus. He explains that this requires the Aesthetics practitioner to have a fundamental knowledge of the physical sciences, an understanding and appreciation of diverse human interactions, and practical clinical experience. “Any training of Aesthetics practitioners must include indepth exposure to the physical sciences, the composition and mechanics of the implements and instruments used in Aesthetics practices, and the health and safety of the clinical environment,” says Dr Gbatu. He also believes that practitioners must be exposed to diverse social and cultural influences, which are increasingly shaping Aesthetics practices. Experienced graduates help to safeguard industry standards Formal education not only assists an industry to innovate and APJ 51
develop, it also serves to benchmark safety and compliance at a high standard. There are risks involved in the practical application of beauty and health treatments, which must be managed and understood. Today, practitioners provide high-risk skin management services, as well as post-treatment wound management. Formal training and qualifications are a safeguard to reduce and prevent the possibility of adverse events occurring. Dr Gbatu says, “The program at Torrens University develops the aspiring Aesthetics practitioner through a rigorous series of academic coursework and practical training in realistic clinical settings, using evidence-based healthcare principles.” The possibility of detriment to individuals at the hands of unqualified practitioners is too high a risk. The repercussions from a single incident can negatively impact a business’ reputation, and adverse events can make insurance coverage in our industry more difficult. To keep up with the rate of change in our industry, it is of the utmost importance that graduates understand and adhere to regulations and set standards of practice. Advanced qualifications prepare students for real-world scenarios Dr Gbatu believes that the Bachelor of Health Science (Aesthetics) program at Torrens University prepares graduates for the real-life situations they will face during their career. “Students are exposed to courses in human biology, human anatomy and physiology, pathophysiology, cosmetic chemistry, biosafety and environmental health – all aim to develop a solid evidence-based physical science foundation,” says Dr Gbatu. People who undertake the undergraduate degree in Dermal Aesthetics will enjoy an increased scope of practice, increasing their opportunities for employment. Degrees such
as those offered by Torrens can benefit the industry overall, through improved standards, increased integrity and greater professionalism. The Torrens Aesthetics program provides immersion through partnerships with industry leaders such as Aspect, Dr, Cosmedix, Results Rx, Murad, Cryomed, Etherea, Clatuu and Dermapen. By undertaking a degree at Torrens, graduates have also the opportunity to progress their careers into nursing, such as postgraduate studies into an MBA or Master of Public Health. Now, more than ever, we need a global emphasis on the importance of rigorous standards to ensure compliance to government legislation at state, national and international levels. Upholding standards globally begins with education. Education helps to protect graduates beginning their career and professionals working in the field, and it acts as due diligence to continue developing this industry into the future. The Torrens University of Australia Bachelor of Health Science (Aesthetics) program was developed in consultation with industry leaders, both within Australia and globally, to meet the needs of the Aesthetics industry in a practical and progressive way. Dr Gbatu says that his experience as an educator, along with his involvement in the curriculum development process, has given him the insight necessary to inform his opinion of the program and of high-level education in the industry. “The Bachelor of Health Science (Aesthetics) program at Torrens University is uniquely situated to meet the fundamental requirements in preparing the next generation of Aesthetics practitioners, in my opinion.” APJ For more information about Torrens University programs in Dermal Aesthetics visit torrens.edu.au/beauty-courses. To support aspirational professionals looking to achieve the highest level of qualifications we offer an Industry Scholarship, find out more and apply visit torrens.edu.au/ apply-online/scholarships
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Tightening and Rejuvenation System from Clairderm DermaPro 3-in-1 Professional Dermal Skin Needling System- Designed for customised treatment options and amazing results! DERMAL SKIN NEEDLING, also known as Percutaneous Collagen Induction (PCI) or Collagen Induction Therapy uses multiple needles to pierce the upper layers of the skin. This stimulates the production of collagen and elastin, which fill depressed scars and wrinkles from the bottom up helping to promote skin repair, tightening, rejuvenation, scar and stretch mark reduction and the visible reduction in the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles, pigmentation and age spots. The procedure is minimally invasive and collagen production is significantly quicker than other more aggressive treatments. Treatment results are influenced by needle length. Non-invasive 0.25mm length needles cause minimal skin trauma gently stimulating skin exfoliation and superficial circulation. However, needle lengths from 0.5mm to 2.5mm optimise treatment results because they break the skin causing skin trauma and inflammation. To reduce the risk of infection it’s important to cleanse the skin properly pre-procedure with Clairderm Gentle Purifying Cleanser and use BeautyMed Epidermal Growth Factor, containing calming and anti-inflammatory ingredients, to soothe the skin during and post-procedure.
Additional skin tightening and rejuvenation can be achieved when the procedure is combined with serums that are pushed by the needles into the dermis. BeautyMed Epidermal Growth Factor serum contains collagen boosting and hydrating ingredients that help to hydrate the skin and stimulate collagen production. It’s very important post-procedure to protect the new, delicate skin from the sun’s harmful UVA and UVB rays by using Clairderm broad spectrum, SPF50+, Moisturising Daily Defence Lotion. This should be combined with a strict daily maintenance program using a professional cosmeceutical skincare range like BeautyMed Dermo Cosmetics, High-Tech Active skincare. Clairderm DermaPro 3-in-1 professional dermal skin needling system, is Clairderm Medical Aesthetics latest innovation. It combines three dermal skin needling systems in the one pen enabling the clinician to optimise and customise treatment options. The Nanoneedle System, gently removes dead skin cells. A great stand-alone treatment or prior to microneedling to increase treatment efficacy. The Microneedling System helps to stimulate collagen and elastin production to rejuvenate and tighten the skin and the Semi-permanent “make-up” System for single, or multiple treatment applications. Clairderm DermaPro 3-in-1 has been designed to optimise performance and reduce treatment times, it’s fast and efficient, with up to18000 cycles per minute with five different speeds. It has two power options, plug in and rechargeable battery, to ensure it can be used anywhere and the range of single-use sterilised, needle tips make it safe and hygienic to use. Clairderm DermaPro comes with full training, ongoing technical support and there are different treatment packages available to suite your needs and budget. For more information on this exciting new product please call us on 1300 781 239 or email us at email@example.com
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ANOTHER GREAT EVENT!
Connecting Inner and Outer Health PREVENTATIVE – INTEGRATIVE – INNOVATIVE THIS YEAR’S A5M Conference was held once again in Melbourne on 4-5th August with the addition of a comprehensive full-day Program on Friday 3rd dedicated exclusively to new scientific discoveries on Mitochondrial Dysfunction and Chronic Disease. The full-day program covered areas such as how mitochondrial function is consistent with the new paradigm of the pathogenesis of chronic disease emerging from science and clinical studies. The life-cycle and key signalling pathways and how diet and lifestyle can target these key processes. Factors that can contribute to the dysfunction of mitochondria, the relationship of immune diseases to chronic diseases to dysfunction mitochondria. Additionally,
several case studies were also presented.
Innovations – the latter which Terry Everitt was the MC.
It was very moving to see the memory of Bill Anton honoured and celebrated with the launch of the Inaugural Bill Anton Memorial Lecture, which was presented by Dr Tania Ash on Saturday morning 4th August. Bill was instrumental in launching A5M in Australia and in creating a dynamic community of practice where practitioners could come together, exchange their knowledge, while staying current with the latest global developments in evidence-based medicine.
There was a diverse range of topics from Women’s Health and Hormones and the impact of Menopause presented by Dr Felice Gersh.
As always, there were two lecture streams – Internal Medicine and Aesthetic Interventions and
Dr Jim Parker presented some very interesting research on the Pathogenesis and Management of Polycystic Ovary Syndrome. I have to say I thoroughly enjoyed both his presentations on this topic, as well as his first lecture on the origins of the common disease epidemic and the new paradigm, which I have covered in an article on pages 58-59 of this journal. From the aesthetic side of the conference Dr Michael Zacharia
presented the new facelifting technique â€“ Deep Plane Facelift and why it is superior to other techniques. The results of this technique are very natural, compared to other facelifting methods. Chemical peels for skin rejuvenation, PRP, fat and non-fat applications, where also covered. I particularly enjoyed an insightful lecture from Professor Ian Brighthope on Cannabis in Clinic. It seems we are very close to legalising the use of medicinal Cannabis in Australia, as more and more research emerges supporting the benefits to pain-management and cancer. I was also thrilled to see well-known Low Level Laser expert Tina Czech, whom I have not seen in years. Tina
presented a lecture on The Cellular and Molecular Mechanisms of Laser Photo-Biomodulation in the Prevention of Disease and Accelerated Biological Ageing. It was also great to see Dr Sinan Ali who spoke on the Clinical Application of Hair Hormone measurements. It is so amazing to gain a greater understanding of the new diagnostic tools that are now available that can provide us with more detailed diagnosis of hormone health and other considerations. Each time I attend A5M Conference I always leave exhilarated. I also value the professional relationship we enjoy with A5M with whom we have a strategic alliance partnership.
We have enjoyed this relationship for over nine years. I have so many fond memories of these events and I have to say that over the years I have gained an incredible amount of knowledge from national and international experts who presented the very latest in scientific updates. If you have never attended one of their conference events I strongly urge you to plan to do so. They are always conducted at the beautiful Sofitel in Collins Street, usually on the first weekend in August. You will gain so much knowledge on so many levels and the professional interaction is amazing. They also conduct on-going professional development workshops. To stay up-todate visit www.a5m.net APJ
THE NEW ERA OF DISEASE MANAGEMENT AND THE DAWN OF THE
INTEGRATIVE, REGENERATIVE, AESTHETICS MODEL By Tina Viney
Dr Jim Parker THE A5M MEDICAL AND AESTHETIC CONFERENCE may not be the largest medical conference in Australia, but it delivers incredible content with depth of knowledge that would by far surpass any other medical conference I have attended – and I attend several each year. I have to say that what I particularly appreciate with the A5M Conferences is that they never fail to present evidence-based science which is at the forefront of new advances that bring hope and a better future in healthcare for all of us. While I enjoyed many of the lectures I heard at this year’s event, I considered Dr Jim Parker’s lecture the most groundbreaking and thought-provoking in terms of what the future holds. For those of you who know me, I am very much a futurist who is not afraid to fight on the regulatory front to secure a better future for our industry. I see this very much as my mission and I would have to say that I found in Dr Jim Parker a kindred spirit. His efforts and determination in approaching the Federal Government in order to introduce a better and more efficient healthcare system to replace the current failing one is admirable, albeit a difficult one, however a very necessary pursuit as diseases are continuing to reach epidemic proportions. These changes will ultimately better serve all Australians as well as substantially lower the financial health burden for the Government. In this article I want to present some highlights from one of Dr Parker’s lectures. I also want to identify what the current health status means to us as aesthetic and dermal therapists and ways that we can contribute to supportive solutions.
A NEW PARADIGM FOR UNDERSTANDING THE COMMON ORIGINS OF THE CHRONIC DISEASE EPIDEMIC Dr Parker has been involved in both clinical and research aspects of healthcare since 1978. He worked as a General Practitioner before specialising in Obstetrics and Gynaecology. He is now focused on Nutritional and Environmental Medicine Health Research and has published articles in national and international journals. Dr Parker is passionate about the role of nutritional and environmental factors in the prevention and treatment of gynaecological health problems and the epidemic of chronic diseases.
In his lecture Dr Parker stated that in Australia, we are currently in the midst of a healthcare crisis due to an epidemic of chronic diseases. The rising incidence of almost all chronic diseases has occurred over the past 40 years and is unprecedented in human history. These diseases include obesity, diabetes, cardiovascular disease, neurodegenerative diseases, allergies, autoimmune diseases and many childhood diseases. According to health economists and academics our healthcare system is expensive and unsustainable. The average total health expenditure as a percentage of GDP, has continued to increase and was 11% in 2016. Meanwhile, statistics are confirming that modern populations are increasingly overfed, malnourished, sedentary, sunlightdeficient, sleep-deprived and socially-isolated. The old model of continuing to spend more, increase taxes and look for efficiency gains is slowly being replaced by measures based on a new awareness of the importance of diet and lifestyle in the prevention and management of most chronic diseases. “It is time to rethink healthcare and introduce a new paradigm based on an integrative Model of Healthcare, to complement our existing Medical Model,” Dr Parker said. The Integrative Model is now supported by an ever-growing large body of molecular, scientific, epidemiological and clinical evidence. A Google search of Nutrition and Environmental Medicine reveals 2,100,000 results in just 0.03 seconds. This large body of research has rapidly expanded over the past 15 years since the completion of the human genome project in 2003. We now have advances in our knowledge of gene function and the importance of single-nucleotide polymorphisms in metabolic function and its application to personalised medicine. We also have a greater understanding of the role of epigenetics in providing a bridge between diet, lifestyle factors and gene expression. Additionally, we have supportive evidence from methylation patterns in epigenomewide association studies, next generation gene sequencing technology bioinformatics and evidence of the adverse health effects of environmental chemicals, such as endocrine disruptors, heavy metals and biocides such as glyphosate. Mechanistic studies from molecular toxicology have revealed break-through discoveries of the microbiome and our new understanding of the role of symbiotic gut bacteria in the
maintenance of health. The microbiome and human cells, nutrigenomics and food-microbiome-gene connection, the gut-brain connection and the role of lifestyle factors in the pathogenesis of depression and neurodegenerative diseases and many, many more areas of great significance to human health.
BARRIERS TO OVERCOME There are many barriers to overcome in order that we can achieve change in this existing era of medical progress. These include international and national decisions makers, multinational food, chemical and pharmaceutical industries, cultural beliefs, advertising, marketing and food labelling practices, medical ideology and entrenched power and belief systems. This in itself is a huge step forward. As we are often told, big pharma continues to commercially dominate what is most financially beneficial for them, over what is best for our health. However, the above discussions will aim to break some of these barriers of communication and attempt through scientific evidence and dialogue, to foster positive changes. There is now an attempt to help improve the time delay between significant laboratory and scientific discoveries and their introduction into clinical practice. This has been aided by the re-emergence of the science of Translational Medicine. I was vaguely aware of the relevance of Translational Medicine, but what I learnt from this lecture got me very excited. In short, Translational Medicine attempts to promote human health by providing a forum of communication and cross-fertilisation among, translational and clinical research practitioner and trainees from ALL RELEVANT ESTABLISHED AND EMERGING DISCIPLINES. Who said there was no power in numbers? This is indeed wonderful news. In the past this was not possible, but today scientists have access to the remarkable tools that are now available and that allow rigorous translational investigations to be conducted. However, the creation of a redefined discipline of Translational Medicine will require the emergence of a new and vibrant community of dedicated scientists, collaborating to fill knowledge gaps and dissolve, or circumvent barriers to improved clinical medicine through valuable dialogue. By sharing knowledge from various disciplines, a greater
understanding of common origins of the chronic disease epidemic and ways to address them will emerge. â€œIt is now time for significant known discoveries in Nutritional and Environmental Medicine to be translated into clinical practice, making healthcare not only more affordable, but also improve both health span and lifespanâ€? Dr Parker stressed.
POTENTIAL CHANGES TO THE AESTHETIC INDUSTRY To say I was elated to gain this knowledge is an understatement. While changes will not happen overnight, reviewing all these advances, there is no doubt that with the advent of Translational Medicine, there is now a mechanism that can potentially bring effective dialogue and unity between the various research disciplines. These collaborations will be able to frame a more regenerative, integrative approach to healthcare that will allow drug-based healthcare to work collaboratively with disciplines that can prevent, and even potentially reverse, chronic health issues. I believe we are moving into an era where more sophisticated technologies will allow individual and detailed testing of the causes of pathology to be investigated in greater detail, so that a multidisciplinary approach for prevention and even reversal, can be identified and implemented. So, how will these advances influence our profession? I believe that as research identifies specific ageing and disease markers, the issues of lifestyle habits, stress management, strategies that minimise inflammation, improve sleep and lower toxicity in the body will open up numerous opportunities for advanced practices. In the decade to follow we will see a boom of more sophisticated technological advances as well treatment protocols that will be able to work side-by-side with Nutritional and Environmental Medicine to support health and overall wellbeing, at a much more formal capcity than what we are currently practising. Of course, there will be those who will wish to continue to specialise only on skin conditions, however, the opportunities to expand our scope of practice will be numerous and will continue to accelerate. The new field of science is clearly pointing, not only to an emerging Integrative, Regenerative Medical Model, but also to the advent of the new era of Integrative, Regenerative Aesthetics. APJ
W I N N I N G T H E WA R A G A I N S T S K I N C A N C E R
ONE-LESION-AT-A-TIME EVERY NOW AND THEN you come across an amazing individual who brakes the mould from the standard status quo. When it comes to practitioners in our industry Nagi Awad would definitely fit the mould. As one of our most devoted APAN members, we are proud to feature his expertise as he pursues a successful career in Australia. Originally from Sudan, Nagi completed a five-year degree at the Faculty of Medicine and Health in his country. Immigrating to Australia in 1996 he reviewed his professional options and decided to pursue a career in skin therapies and applied for post-graduate studies, which he completed at the School of Medicine - Queensland University. In 2011 he further completed a course in Advanced Dermatoscopy and in 2017 he completed studies at New England University as a medical assistant. So, where has all this led him in his professional development? We caught up with Nagi to capture his story. APJ Q1: NAGI, WHAT IS YOUR CURRENT PROFESSIONAL STATUS AND WHERE ARE YOU WORKING? I am currently working under the supervision of a medical practitioner at The Ponds Medical Centre located at The
Ponds Shopping Centre in NSW. The centre provides General Practice care to individuals and their families and is committed in servicing the local community. It is a modern medical practice that values quality care and provides an atmosphere of excellence and ethical values. The services include pathology, physiotherapy, psychologists, dietician, hypnotherapy, paediatrician and nursing. My role in the clinic is as a skincare clinician performing removal of superficial skin lesions and irregularities including: •
small/large skin tags
treatment of warts
removal of small cysts and fibromas
skin cancer screening from head to toe using Dermatoscope
I also use the Clinical Skin Clear system and Diathermy for the above procedures.
APJ Q2: ARE YOU KEPT BUSY WITH THESE PROCEDURES? Indeed, after the US, Australia is the second nation in the world with the most incidents of skin cancer. Our long summers and outdoor living often contribute to a high susceptibility for skin cancers for many individuals. Left untreated, these lesions can be life-threatening. My role is to investigate all lesions of the body and to conduct a head-to-toe cancer screening using Dermatoscope. This allows us to identify any suspect lesions and to determine an appropriate course of action in their removal. APJ Q3: WHAT DO YOU APPRECIATE THE MOST ABOUT YOUR WORK? Generally speaking lesions are unsightly and when removed, clients are so relieved. Skin tags for instance, can also be problematic in that they can catch on jewellery and can be traumatised. As my speciality is lesions and lesion removal it is very rewarding to help my clients feel better about themselves. Additionally, when it comes to suspect lesions that are, or could become malignant, this is a case where I can save a
personâ€™s life and this is perhaps the most rewarding of all. Knowing that I can diagnose an early onset of skin cancer and save a life is an incredible feeling. APJ Q4: ARE YOUR CLIENTS PREDOMINANTLY WOMEN? I would have to say that I have more or less 50% female clients and 50% male. I guess the sun does not discriminate. Regardless, I always aim to provide a through, caring and professional service always focusing on what is best for my client. I am very grateful for the opportunity to work within the wonderful medical team at The Pond Medical Centre and it is rewarding to service the community in this capacity. I also value my membership to APAN and appreciate their on-going support and guidance in understanding regulations and laws, as well as maintaining my on-going professional development. I do hope one day that this life-saving service can also be acknowledged by the relevant authorities to secure refunds under private health cover. APJ Nagi Awad can be located at The Ponds Shopping Centre, 25 The Ponds Blvd, The Ponds NSW 2769. PH:02 8883 3033.
EQUANIMITY – the Cool approach for Survival By Tina Viney
“Equanimity suggests balance, centeredness, not being pulled internally too far in one direction or another.” — Nancy Flam I HAVE A CONFESSION TO MAKE. There are times when I feel quite overwhelmed with the pressures of life. Yet each morning, I wake up and face the day with courage and a positive expectation that I will make it through the day victoriously, despite the odds. I need to convince myself to have this mindset, otherwise, I will roll over and go back to sleep and that is not an option. Have you ever felt this way? In my own quest for mastering my circumstance I came across an interesting word for which I was somewhat vague about its meaning. The word was equanimity. I first heard it when I attended a two-day Breakthrough Experience with human behaviour and personal development authority Dr John Demartini and while a had a rough idea what it meant, grasping its full meaning has been lifechanging.
For most of us, equanimity is a practice to be developed like exercising, eating healthier foods, or developing habits like mindfulness that can allow us to be in control of our life. We set an intention to navigate towards the internal spaciousness that equanimity offers and practice it incrementally. As many of you who may be in a position of trying to manage your business while also faced with home and family obligations, life can sometimes be unpredictable. There are times when you may be confronted with unfair demands and pressures and possibly find yourself in the predicament of being the only one who can solve “that problem”. Our sails can be ruffled and we can lament the unfairness of life. However, gradually, we learn to manage the sails as they flail in the winds of our lives and realise that whinging and complaining will get us nowhere.
How would you like to master your thoughts, mental and emotional state where nothing can phase you, or make you lose your sense of self-control or balance, regardless of the challenges you may be facing? That is called equanimity.
On the other hand, maintaining our internal equilibrium and staying calm can allow us to navigate through stormy times and actually come up with some great solutions. It all comes down to the power of calm and how valuable that is in helping us successfully overcome challenges.
Equanimity is a capacity for calmness and balance even in a difficult situation. To get a mental image of the meaning of equanimity consider a sailboat managing to remain upright and balanced even in heavy winds. Although the sails sway in the breeze, they hold the boat’s centeredness.
I recently was speaking with a member who was struggling with a staffing relationship issue. “How do I deal with my emotions in these types of difficult situations,”she asked? We brainstormed a few strategies she might consider and I encouraged her to pause and remember “this won’t last forever
, it’s a temporary situation.” We looked at how she could bring that calming voice to this situation, and what it would mean to her to do so. Going through the options she might consider, she finally chose a strategy she thought would work to gain greater balance, to feel less pulled by the conflict dynamic. She followed through with an action plan to move forward with more inner spaciousness and equanimity and gained a good outcome. A few thoughts on moving toward equanimity in life and at work: 1. Recognise that equanimity is not indifference, passivity, or resignation: Building equanimity involves recognising life’s challenges and the resulting thoughts and emotions, while also engaging the capacity to experience balance. Acknowledging the realities of a situation, but not being pulled emotionally too far in any direction. From this place, it’s possible to respond calmly, with resolve and action. Equanimity assists in personal and professional situations as well as engaging wrongs, oppression, and other confrontative issues in both our work and in our private life. 2. Letting it be OK to begin where we are: Life presents many issues, for example, increasing demands at work, job transitions, health challenges, losses, family or relationship struggles. The tendency is to yearn for the way things were before the change, or feel upset that things are this way.
These habitual thought patterns and emotions can impede acceptance and action. Consider adopting a calming “this too shall pass” attitude; a knowing that things are changeable. Cultivating evenness, calmness, and self-compassion can lead to acceptance that it’s OK to start where we are. Give yourself permission to stay calm and not allow overwhelm to dominate your emotions. 3. Engaging techniques such as breath awareness and mindfulness: In her book, Real Happiness at Work, mindfulness expert, Sharon Salzburg, writes: “Mindfulness is a relational quality, in that it does not depend on what is happening, but is about how we relate to what’s happening.” Mindfulness is a skill we can learn like swimming or planting a garden. Pausing and taking one or several conscious breaths can offer us a respite for clarity.
CONCLUSION I believe that of all the skills and attributes that will allow us to make it through challenging times, the most important is mastering the ability to stay balanced and in control of our thoughts and emotions — finding equanimity where we do not allow anything to push us over the edge, but understand that there is always a way to a solution. Cultivating to master a state of calm will allow us to seek and find the right solution that is reasonable and logical and will provide the most beneficial outcome for all concerned. APJ APJ 63
H E L I C H RY S U M E S S E N T I A L O I L
Benefits for Skin and Health By Tina Viney
SEVERAL DECADES AGO I was fortunate enough to complete a course in Aromatic Chemistry with one of the world’s leading researchers, Dr Kurt Schnaubelt. The knowledge I gained from this study elevated my understanding and appreciation of essential oils to a whole new level, predominantly because I truly grasped the medicinal properties of essential oils and how this knowledge could allow me to help my clients on so many levels. Indeed, essential oils are powerful allies in our quest for healing, rejuvenation and disease prevention, providing we use medicinal-grade pure extracts with an understanding of their amazing chemical constituents. One of the most fascinating essential oils we covered that I want to profile here is Helichrysum – also commonly known as Everlasting. What Is Helichrysum Essential Oil? Helichrysum essential oil boasts many different fullbody benefits due to its anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, antimicrobial, antifungal and antibacterial properties. Helichrysum essential oil, typically from the Helichrysum italicum plant, has been established in various experimental studies to have strong abilities to lower inflammation due to several mechanisms: inflammatory enzyme inhibition, free radical scavenging activity and corticoid-like effects. The health benefits of helichrysum essential oil can be attributed to its properties as an antispasmodic, anticoagulant, antiallergenic, anti-microbial, anti-haematoma, antiphlogistic, nervine, anti-inflammatory, anti-tussive and expectorant. It also acts as a febrifuge, antiseptic, cholagogic, emollient, mucolytic, fungicidal, hepatic, diuretic, splenic, and a cytophylactic substance. Helichrysum, the flower that contributes to the “everlasting” and “immortal” essential oil, and known by the names Helichrysum angustifolium and Helichrysum italicum, is a European herb native to France, Italy, and a few neighbouring countries. It is quite an expensive oil but one which I would not be without. However, unlike other essential oils which have a short shelf-life, this oil can be stored for a very long time. Today, it continues to play an important role in the traditional medicine of Mediterranean countries, although its popularity is also spreading around the rest of the world quickly.
In order to validate some of the traditional uses of Helichrysum italicum extract and to highlight its other potential applications, numerous scientific studies have been conducted in the last several decades. The focus of many studies has been to identify just how helichrysum oil acts as a natural antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory agent. Modern science now confirms what traditional populations have known for centuries: Helichrysum essential oil contains special properties that make it extremely valuable. As such, it can be used in dozens of different ways to boost health and ward off disease. Some of its most popular uses are for treating wounds, infections, digestive problems, supporting the nervous system and heart health, and healing respiratory conditions. One of the main properties that I find very valuable is that it is also a powerful haemostatic that can stop bleeding in an emergency. Let me share with you one of my experiences with this amazing oil. Several year ago, one of my friends had a wisdom tooth extraction. However, on going home she was experiencing extensive bleeding, so much so that she was starting to feel very faint and phoned me for help. She had tried to stop the bleeding by pressing a clean handkerchief on to the wound only to get it saturated with blood. I rushed to her side and discovered that she had lost a great deal of blood and was concerned for her safety, so I asked for her dentist’s details to phone him, but she was too vague and weak to be able to respond. Knowing that she was haemorrhaging I needed to act fast. Fortunately, having heard the state of her weakness when she phoned me, I had grabbed a bottle of my Helichrysum and brought it with me as an emergency measure. I placed 3-4 drops on a large cotton pad and placed in on the wound which was gushing with blood and asked her to place pressure on it. She held this in place for approximately 10 minutes. As she slowly removed it we were both shocked to see that not only did the bleeding instantly stop at the point of contact, but her wound, was also starting to coagulate. Subsequently, I have used Helichrysum with acne conditions and other instances of bleeding and I have always experience the same amazing haemostatic capabilities of this amazing oil. Traditional Helichrysum Essential Oil Benefits Helichrysum oil is considered a medicinal plant with many promising pharmacological activities because it also operates
as a natural antibiotic, antifungal and antimicrobial. In traditional Mediterranean medicine practices that have been using this oil for centuries, its flowers and leaves are the most useful parts of the plant. They are prepared in different ways to treat conditions, including: •
Indigestion and acid reflux
Inflammation of the muscles and joints
In recent years, researchers have actively been studying the different pharmacological activities of Helichrysum italicum extract to discover more about the science behind its traditional uses, toxicity, drug interactions and safety. As more information is uncovered, pharmacological experts predict that helichyrsum will become an important tool in the treatment of several diseases. How exactly does helicrysum do so much for the human body? According to studies done so far, scientists believe that part of the reason is the strong antioxidant properties especially in the form of acetophenones and phloroglucinols present within helichrysum oil. In particular, helichrysum plants of the Asteraceae family are prolific producers of a host of different metabolites, including
pyrones, triterpenoids and sesquiterpenes, in addition to its flavonoids, acetophenones and phloroglucinol. Helichyrsum’s protective properties are expressed partly like a corticoid-like steroid, helping lower inflammation by inhibiting action in different pathways of arachidonic acid metabolism. Researchers from the Department of Pharmacy at the University of Naples in Italy also found that due to ethanolic compounds present in the extract of helichrysum flowers, it elicits antispasmodic actions inside of an inflamed digestive system, helping reduce the gut from swelling, cramping and digestive pain. Research so far has confirmed the following benefits of helichrysum:
1. Anti-inflammatory and Antimicrobial Skin Helper A review done by the Health Sciences Research Centre at the University of Beira in Portugal found that helichrysum’s flavonoids and terpene compounds were effective against dangerous bacteria like Staphylococcus aureus that can cause a range of health concerns from minor skin rashes to serious, life-threatening heart complications. Thanks to its anti-inflammatory properties, people also like to use helichrysum essential oil for scars to discourage inflammation and encourage optimal healing. The oil also has anti-allergenic properties, making it a great natural remedy for many skin conditions.
2. Acne Treatment Another specific way to use helichrysum oil is as a natural acne remedy. According to medical studies, helichrysum has strong antioxidant and antibacterial properties that make it a great natural acne treatment. It also works without drying the skin, or causing redness and other unwanted side effect. Because of these amazing property it enhances wound coagulation without a drying effect that would open the would again when pressure was removed.
3. Anti-Candida According to in vitro studies, the special compounds in helichrysum oil called acetophenones, phloroglucinols and terpenoids appear to demonstrate antifungal actions
against harmful Candida albicans growth. Candida is a common type of yeast infection caused by Candida albicans. The infection can occur in the mouth, intestinal tract or vagina, and it may also affect skin and other mucous membranes. If you have candida symptoms, you definitely don’t want to ignore them.
three to four drops with a cotton ball to the affected area. Repeat every few hours as needed to ease pain, inflammation and swelling. You can add three drops of helichrysum oil along with three drops of lavender oil to a warm bath and soak in it to ease haemorrhoid symptoms.
9. Kidney Stone Reliever
4. Anti-Inflammatory that Helps Boost Heart Health The hypotensive action of helichrysum improves the condition of blood vessels by lowering inflammation, increasing smooth muscle function and lowering high blood pressure, according to a 2008 study done by the School of Medical Sciences at the University of Durban. During the in vivo and in vitro animal studies, the observed cardiovascular effects of using helichrysum oil support the basis for its possible use in the management of high blood pressure and the protection of heart health — just like it’s been traditionally used for many years in European folkloric medicine.
5. Natural Digestive and Diuretic Helichrysum helps stimulate the secretion of gastric juices that are needed to break down food and prevent indigestion. For thousands of years in Turkish folk medicine the oil has been used as a diuretic, helping reduce bloating by drawing excess water out of the body, and for relieving stomach aches. The flowers of Helichrysum italicum are also a traditional remedy for the treatment of various intestinal complaints and are used as a herbal tea for curing digestive, stomachrelated, damaged gut and intestinal diseases. Scientific research confirms the use of Helichrysum italicum as a natural remedy for digestive, stomachic and intestinal diseases. Animal research published in the Journal of Ethnopharmacology demonstrates helichrysum’s antispasmodic properties and hence its ability to aid intestinal complaints. A herbal tea made from dried helichrysum flowers is a great way to reap these digestive and gut-boosting benefits.
6. Potential Natural Cancer Protector Research published in the journal BMC Complementary and Alternative Medicine demonstrates the anti-cancer ability of helichrysum. This in vitro study reveals the antitumour actions of extracts from the Helichrysum zivojinii plant. The anti-cancer ability of the helichrysum extracts on cancer call lines were selective and dose-dependent, but the research is one of several studies highlighting the potential for helichrysum to be used in the natural fight against cancer.
7. Antiviral that Increases Immunity Since a large portion of the immune system is actually located within the gut, the gut-healing and antiinflammatory properties of helichrysum help it effectively boost immunity. In clinical studies, the flavonoids and phloroglucinols of helichrysum oil showed inhibition of harmful bacteria, fungi and viruses, even powerful enough to fight off herpes simplex virus type 1 (HSV-1) and coxsackie B virus type 1. The helichrysum flavonoid that gets most of the scientific credit for fighting off these viruses and other harmful invaders is called galangin.
8. Natural Haemorrhoid Soother To help reduce pain and swelling of haemorrhoids, apply
Helichrysum oil may reduce the risk of kidney stones by supporting and detoxifying the kidneys and liver. A preliminary study published in 2016 finds that helichrysum extracts may be useful in the treatment of kidney stones and can be used as an alternative therapy to potassium citrate. The flowers were also found to be helpful for urinary tract stones or urolithiasis.
HELICHRYSUM ESSENTIAL OIL RECIPES Helichrysum oil is described as having a sweet and fruity smell, with honey, or nectar overtones. Many people find the smell to be warming, uplifting and comforting - and since the aroma has a grounding quality, it even assists in releasing emotional blocks. I find the smell quite herbal and prefer it if blended with a couple of drops of geranium oil. Helichrysum isn’t known to be the prettiest-looking flower (it’s a yellowish strawflower that retains its shape when dried), but its myriad uses and subtle, “summery smell” make it a popular essential oil for applying right to the skin, inhaling or diffusing. Remember, it’s always best to buy a high-quality product and to check that the active ingredient is pure and preferably organic. Also, only use therapeutic-grade essential oils to get the best results. You can know that the source you’re buying is high quality by checking that the genus species to be labelled Helichrysum italicum. Here is how to use helichrysum oil: •
Apply several drops (2–4) of undiluted pure helichrysum essential oil directly on the skin to the affected area or desired location
Directly inhale the oil
Diffuse it in your home or work environment
HELICHRYSUM OIL SIDE EFFECTS When it comes to its safety and adverse effects, Helichrysum italicum does not display significant levels of allergic reactions or side effects (in the form of cytotoxicity or genotoxicity). It’s believed to be well-tolerated, and mild side effects have occurred only in rare cases, where certain people experienced an allergic reaction. To test for any reactions, always try using a small amount of any essential oil on a patch of skin before applying it elsewhere.
CONCLUSION A quick search on PubMed will reveal that there are numerous studies that confirm the pharmacological benefits of Helichrysum. Indeed, it’s a very useful oil with numerous benefits and one which I highly value and ensure I include in my emergency kit. APJ Here is one reference you may wish to check: www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/24239849
THE LIFE-TRANSFORMING POWER OF TATTOO REMOVAL ONE OF THE MOST rewarding aspects of our work, regardless as to what modality we are working with, is to see someone’s life turn around for the better and to see joy back into their life – there is nothing like it! While I am experiencing this with my cosmetic tattooing, I can honestly say that some of the most moving experiences in my professional life have been with the practice of tattoo removal. I recently, undertook to assist a woman who was the victim of domestic violence. Anita Dusi is a wonderful human being who deserves to smile again. As a result of domestic violence, she was left with traumatic brain injury and was wheelchair-bound for some time. Hearing her story brought tears to my eyes and I was determined to step in and make a difference in her life. During happier days she had tattooed her then partner’s name on her wrist – that’s what love makes you do sometimes! However, her situation changed and she was left with both physical and emotional scars as a result of domestic violence. While she is slowly starting to recover and is now able to slowly walk with the aid of a stick and braces, the tattoo on her wrist is a constant reminder of her pain and suffering.
APJ Q2: Tell us about the removal process and your experience? Today, I have had my second treatment and I am pleased to say that most of the ink has already been removed. I found the Skinial procedure painless and seeing the tattoo slowly disappearing is so liberating. I feel he is finally gone out of my life and I can move on. I feel very relieved. It is so good to finally feel safe and free to move on and rebuild my life. This procedure is giving me my life back, it is part of my healing journey and it is therapeutic both physically and emotionally. APJ Q3: How did you find Deanne’s skills and knowledge? I have to say Deanne is very knowledgeable and skilled. She has a professional and a very calming and reassuring manner that put me at ease. Her caring and understanding of my situation is very comforting and it allowed me to feel safe again. I have to say this whole experience is “priceless”. I will be eternally grateful for this service and for the care and support I received from Deanne in helping me regain my life.
THE SKINIAL METHOD Tattoo removal is an amazing procedure that can transform lives, and statistics confirm that one in three people that have had tattoos, will wish to remove them at some stage, so it is definitely a growth opportunity for practitioners as well as business owners. The Skinial Method of Tattoo Removal is a non-laser patented lactic acid formula that can deliver quick and safe results when performed with the correct protocols. Deanne Carney is the national distributor and trainer of the Skinial Method and is highly committed to comprehensive training and on-going support, for all who wish to introduce this service to their business. This is a cost-effective way of tattoo removal that will allow you to grow your business with the addition of this modality and gain the privilege or changing lives. The only prerequisite is that you have a qualification and thorough knowledge of the skin to perform this procedure.
Hearing her story APJ requested permission to interview Anita to capture her experience with the procedure of the tattoo removal. APJ Q1: Anita, why was it important to you to remove the tattoo with your ex-partner’s name? Despite that I am attempting to move on with my life having my ex-partner’s name indelibly attached to my wrist was a constantly reminder of the nightmares I had lived through and the pain I had endured. No-matter how much I wanted to move on, it was there as a constant reminder.
Directly after 2nd treatment. 4 treatments are estimated to remove this tattoo.
If you are interested in further information about introducing SKINIAL treatments to your business please contact Deanne Carney on 0423 621 764 or email@example.com
Infrared vs LED – One Hot Topic By Danielle Hughes
AS LIGHT-BASED THERAPIES are continuing to dominate the market ARPANSA has recently released national standards for laser, IPL and also LED technologies in a bid to inform both the industry, as well as the public of what is considered safe standards. Light, when harnessed correctly, has incredible power in changing the skin and provides positive solutions for many skin conditions. However, as we also know, used incorrectly, without sufficient knowledge and education it can contribute to adverse effects. Danielle Hughes is a passionate industry professional who holds national and international qualifications in aesthetics and is highly committed to scientific research and industry trends. Danielle has presented at conferences and educational seminars across Australia, Asia, Canada, Europe, South Africa and even in Russia. Her ‘no hype’ approach is both refreshing and to-the-point. Danielle recognises the unique challenges our industry faces and the need to accommodate modern consumer trends within safe, legal, scientifically-based outcomes. In this article, she compares Infrared to LED and addresses both the possibilities and the risks. Infrared Radiation (IR) poses a huge threat to the longevity of skin cells and plays a critical role in how fast the skin ages. The world’s leading skincare ingredient manufacturers poured millions into Research and Development for the production of sophisticated compounds that defend the skin against IR. Protection against IR and high energy visible light is considered the next big ‘challenge’ within the skin and aesthetics industry. On one hand, you have new products being launched that shield the skin from these environmental factors, with research available that clearly links IR to the generation of reactive oxygen species (ROS), inflammation and up regulated MMP-1 (undesirable enzyme that breaks down collagen). On the other hand, you have equipment manufacturers telling therapists to promote the use of IR in skin rejuvenation
treatments. Having an ‘Infrared’ option for your LED machine is being promoted as an advantage.
CONFUSED? Invisible to the human eye, IR is felt as heat. It’s emitted by the sun as well as man-made artificial sources, but their effect on the skin is different. It might surprise you to learn that 54% of the radiation emitted by the sun that reaches the skin is, in fact, IR (7% is UV, 39% visible light). Mibelle Biochemistry released new studies surrounding IR in October 2017. Their findings concluded that IRA (near infrared) induces significant production of free radicals in the dermis and diminishes the skin’s antioxidant capacity. Interestingly, when UV absorbs into the skin, the ROS are retained in the cell membrane. By contrast, IR generated ROS pass over the cell membrane and take up disruptive residence in the mitochondria of the cell. These ROS eventually leak out into the cytoplasm and signal a cascade which leads to the up regulation of MMP-1 and the down regulation of Collagen Type 1 production. In conclusion, IRA, particularly artificial IRA, is an important contributor to the photo-ageing process which accelerates the formation of lines and wrinkles, skin discolouration, loss of elasticity and age spots. Terri Vinson, a well-respected cosmetic chemist and formulator has warned the industry that “infrared protection is the next big challenge against skin ageing. Recent clinical studies have shown that infrared damage is just as destructive to the skin as UV rays and is also a key contributor in photo-ageing”.
WHAT IS THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN ENVIRONMENTAL IR AND ARTIFICIAL IR? In short, artificial IR is much more deleterious to the skin – after all, environmental IR is filtered by a kilometre of atmospheric water before it hits the skin. [iii] “Daily IRA sun exposure delivers a much lower irradiance and fluence (dose) than powerful artificial sources – 760-1450nm
… exposure to artificial IRA radiation of too broad a range and intensity/dose can contribute to existing detrimental effects and cause negative effects of its own. Several studies demonstrate the damaging effects of IRA radiation in the skin both in vitro and in vivo, with most studies reporting the detrimental effects of IRA (up regulation of MMP-1) used artificial light sources”.
SO, IT BEGS THE QUESTION – WHY WOULD SOMEONE PROMOTE THE USE OF INFRARED (ESPECIALLY NEAR INFRARED) IN ANTI-AGEING SKIN TREATMENTS? Manufacturers and equipment suppliers are attempting to ‘spin’ what has been proven as a negative outcome, as some sort of advantage. There are a number of LED machines on the market that actively promote the emission of an IR output in their device. Is it any wonder that there’s some confusion out there? In fact, some of the promoted Spec-Sheets define their machine as having ‘Infrared 830nm’ and ‘Far Infrared 940nm’. But here’s the thing, IRA (near infrared) is classified as any wavelength between 760nm-1400nm. IRC (far infrared) has a bandwidth of over 3000nm. [v] No matter what the spin, fake, or convenient phrasing of science is easily identifiable with a simple Google™ search.
WHAT IS TRUE LED? Also known as Photo Rejuvenation, Light Emitting Diode technology is a non-invasive treatment that penetrates specific wavelengths of non-thermal light energy into the cells, without collateral damage at the right flow rate. All pure, banded LEDs have frequencies that occurs within the visible light spectrum. The application of specific light wavelengths can result in cellular regeneration, enhanced cell metabolism, influence on chemical cycles and function, and the production of specific building blocks essential for the ‘building and repair’ process. Since the 1980’s when LED was first recognised from studies undertaken by NASA and then more detailed applications by the US Department of Defense, the technology has evolved. The latest developments in LED include polychromatic blends of energy, which, when correctly cycled can have a multilevel effect on varying skin conditions. The benefit of cycling (pulsing) can also ensure that the practitioner adopt a custom approach to treating a complex range of skin conditions, without collateral damage. For example, if you’re watering a tree, you can turn up the water pressure of the hose and that tree will benefit from the increased volume of water. By contrast, if you take that same hose and water pressure to the baby seedlings you’ve just planted – they’ll drown rather than germinate. LOOKING TO UPGRADE YOUR TECHNOLOGY? Here are the issues a therapist should consider when purchasing a new LED device: POWER. While of course it is helpful to measure the light output to establish a range that doesn’t over radiate the skin, it is irrelevant to know the energy used to generate that output. This pertains just to the efficiencies of the semiconductor and even its power supply. Be careful of marketing that claims a benefit by promoting ‘x’ amount of power. Too much power generates heat and inhibits the desired LED influence to repair skin issues. WATTAGE OR JOULES Relevant light output is measured in ANSI-lumens – not watts or joules. Wattage or joules are what engineers and equipment salesmen talk about. Diagnosing
the skin condition, treatment indications, understanding what effect LED has within the skin and treatment outcomes is really what skin therapists need to understand. REFRACTIONAL INDEX. LEDs that aren’t adequately banded to within the visible light spectrum or have too high an output for what the skin can safely absorb, deliver energy that can refract through the different density mediums of the skin into IR wavelengths. Simple test - if you feel heat, it’s not light. Avoiding heat is important if you are looking to repair the skin condition, not simply destroy the cell and take credit for a ‘fresher’ looking new cell that will inevitably have the same metabolically created issues. ABILITY TO CYCLE (PULSE). To ensure safe and effective dosage for multiple skin conditions, the ability to pulse the energy to deliver varying flow rates is now key if you want to supplement a deficiency of the metabolism, which invariably is what caused the skin issue you are treating. Simply applying full power all the time will over radiate the skin and, at best, provide only a symptomatic improvement. A sophisticated device will have these pulsing protocols pre-programmed for you to select, based on your diagnosis of each skin issue. INFRARED. Beware, this is not light. Given the latest peer reviewed science and research, artificially generated IR is even more deleterious to the longevity and health of skin cells. Hence IR protective ingredients are being added to both new and established European and Asian skincare ranges. Think about the host of claims now being made about IR treatment, when it originated as a booster for poor circulation to aid inflammation drainage from wounds in cold climate countries some 150 years ago. Its first appearance as a skin treatment feature was ‘spin’ for poor quality bandwidth banding on early LED machines. For example, as qualified skin therapists, we understand that melasma is caused by enhanced personal susceptibility to the sun’s radiation (which is 54% IR). We can therefore easily dismiss manufacturer claims that further concentrated IR is going to be beneficial in treating melasma. Last but not least, consider the warranty. Always ensure you are buying equipment from a reputable supplier who’s been in the business for at least five years (so you know they’re more likely to be there for a warranty of at least 3-5 years). If they don’t have the experience with servicing the equipment to be confident enough to back it with an “all parts and labour” long-term warranty, then you are the one taking all the risk on their equipment. APJ Danielle Hughes is the Managing Director of Skinfaktor Australia who distribute the Technology and Skincare of the European Group, Dermia Solutions. Her career over the past 12 years in the hair and beauty industries has included roles as Australian Education Manager and National Brand Manager for leading imported cosmeceutical brands and currently also includes an international role as Marketing Manager using digital communications for a new to market European Medical and Aesthetics provider with patented technology.
For a list of references, please contact the editor.
Capturing the right data for a successful treatment design and outcome An interview with Gay Wardle TRADITIONALLY the role of a skin consultation is to identify valuable information that will allow you to determine treatment suitability, ingredient choices and any potential contra-indications that can lead to reactions. The more detailed the consultation in capturing valuable data the more effective it will be in guiding you in the best possible options for successful treatment solutions for your client or patient. Today’s consumers have choices as to whom they can approach for corrective skin treatments. They can visit a cosmetic clinic and be treated by a doctor, a dermal therapist or an aesthetic practitioner. While qualifications are important, consumers will also question your knowledge and investigate your reputation. At a diploma level Beauty Therapy qualification, the level of knowledge in skin analysis is quite fundamental, however with the consistent introduction of advanced and sophisticated technologies practitioners can achieve incredible treatment outcomes that target the deeper layers of the skin such as the dermis and beyond. Working at this level practitioners are required to investigate causative considerations that may contribute to the skin condition they are treating. Gay Wardle is considered the “Queen of skin analysis”. Her training is comprehensive and academically robust. Her three-day courses are transforming businesses and allowing practitioners to gain a more scientific understanding of the origin of skin disorders. Harnessing this information her training allows practitioners and businesses to address chronic skin conditions with successful treatment outcomes. In this article we interviewed Gay and asked her specific questions about what constitutes a thorough skin analysis and what information should be captured. APJ Q1: Gay, you have been studying and training in Advanced Skin Analysis for several years now. We know that every beauty therapist has studied skin analysis as part of their Diploma of Beauty Therapy, however, how does your training provide more in-depth knowledge and skills in identifying and understanding disorders and skin deficiencies? This is a great question. Students are learning so many units in the Diploma of Beauty Therapy that it’s really not possible
to cover skin anatomy and physiology as comprehensively as is needed for today’s consumer expectations. Furthermore, we are required to constantly learn and grow our knowledge of the skin and we can achieve this with new research findings that we are continuingly able to access. Today, beauty therapists are challenged to not just improve skin texture, but also treat skin disorders. Many skin disorders are as a result of internally related issues more now than ever before and in fact, the percentage of skin disorders that have their origin in internal considerations is much higher than external causes. In my teaching I cover gut-related disorders, stress related disorders, hormonal related disorders, lung disorders and diseases that have a huge impact on the skin. All of these issues have a massive impact to skin health when these organs are not functioning in a healthy way. I teach cell biology so that therapists may understand why we see things on the skin, such as solar lentigo. Treatments being offered in clinics today can be very aggressive and at times could have an adverse reaction if the body is unhealthy. I am constantly studying and researching skin disorders and I am very excited to share my knowledge whenever I can. As beauty therapists we are taught the functions of the skin which is very important, but today we need to know and understand the skin disorders that are related to internal conditions. APJ Q2: What information should a good skin analysis aim to capture, in order to help the practitioner provide a safe and efficacious skin treatment? Another brilliant question. The impact of stress is a very common factor. We need to understand the type of stress our clients have and let’s face it, we all are impacted by stress. Stress causes pigmentation, acne, may cause or increase rosacea, ageing of the skin, rashes, hyper-proliferation disorders, eczema, psoriasis and many more conditions that we see. Stress changes hormone functions within the body that have a huge impact to the skin and of course, our immune system can also be compromised by stress. Our skin is inflicted by inflammation when the body is under
stress and as a result, it may not be able to heal after a procedure. Gut health is another consideration as a dehydrated gut can have a huge impact on the immune system and nervous system, which in turn impacts hormone changes to the body and ultimately contributing to changes to the skin. Gut related conditions, as a result of food intolerances, can cause skin irritation, rashes and pruritus. On the other hand, hormonal changes cause many things to change within the skin, one being less production of lamellar causing the skin to become excessively dry. Pigmentation, oiliness, rosacea can be caused by hormonal imbalances. If we understand this then we can assist through topically applied nutrients as well as recommend appropriate internal nutritional support. Lung disorders cause the skin to become thinner. There are many facets as to why a skin ages, or why there is the appearance of pigmentation. Therefore, gut, stress, hormones, immune system disorders, lung disorders and the function and disorders of the cardiovascular system are all topics that are needed to be considered in a thorough consultation. APJ Q3: Should a skin analysis be confined just to the face or should it include also the body and why? Absolutely not. When examining overall skin health, the face is just a small area, we must also look at other manifestations on the body that will help us identify underlying disorders. Ichthyosis is a skin disorder that is seen on legs that is often diagnosed as a dry skin, it is in fact a change in the lamellar production and can cause pruritus that may accelerate the formation of open lesions and post-inflammatory pigmentation. You can discover a great deal about the immune system by examining the entire body, not to mention the blood circulation. Examples such as bruising will give you an understanding of how the body heals; if there is a fungus on the trunk, or legs then that will have a huge impact on wound repair. Keratosis pillars can be found both on the face and the body, so if it is seen on the body then it could also appear on the face. It is so important when performing a skin analysis that we consider the entire body. APJ Q4: When treating specific conditions such as pigmentation what aspects of the skin should be examined to determine treatment choices? Pigmentation is caused by so many different aspects, one being hormonal changes. Both the keratinocytes and melanocytes have hormone receptors that respond when there is a reaction. This reaction can be the cause of chloasma â€” a pigment condition that is found in the dermis, in such cases treatment protocols may be difficult. Melasma is another hormonal skin condition that is caused by stimulation of hormonal receptors to the melanocytes. Melanin Stimulating Hormone (MSH) can be escalated by cortisol, and sex hormones causing different types of pigmentation. Medication can also stimulate MSH in many ways by either increasing or decreasing other hormone activation. Hormones activated by the thyroid have a huge impact on pigment in the skin. Post Inflammatory Pigmentation can be both dermal and epidermal, epidermal is relatively simple to address, however dermal is much harder and takes considerable time to treat. Eczema, psoriasis, acne can all be a cause for PIP. Knowing which pigment you are working with and having the right combination of actives is so important when addressing skin conditions.
APJ Q5: Why is gut health so important in improving skin health and how can you determine if there are gut function deficiencies when conducting a skin analysis? I believe all skin treatments should begin with a gut cleanse as I call it. Antibiotics and other types of medications cause change to the gut biome and this will cause changes to the skin. A dehydrated gut increases inflammation within the body that will increase cortisol, leading to an activation change to other hormones within the body. Gut problems can also influence changes to the brain where there might be an affiliation with Alzheimerâ€™s disease, multiple sclerosis and diabetes, just to name a few. Currently they are curing some of these diseases with faecal transplants, which is so amazing. There are reports that babies born by Caesarean are at high risk for eczema because they do not get the bacteria on their bodies through the birth canal. They are now using bacteria from the birth canal and applying to on the babies after birth and finding this is reducing skin disorders. Stress will create gut inflammation and gut inflammation will increase stress, we have already talked about this and the impact it has on the skin, one of them being ageing. I believe that supporting the improvement of gut-health is critical when treating skin disorders. Part of the skin consultation is asking about bowel movements, stress, fluid intake (the fluid we drink is important for gut health), do they digest their food or do they pass peas and carrots in their stools. How often do they go to the toilet, do they have food allergies, do they have both diarrhoea and constipation? Do they have sugar cravings? The more we learn about gut health, the better we will understand what is impacting their skin conditions. APJ Q6: From your experience can you give us an example of how a misdiagnosis can lead to the wrong treatment and therefore achieve poor treatment outcome? Melasma is one of those conditions, which when misdiagnosed and treated incorrectly (with say IPL or laser) can actually become worse and can contribute to increase stress for the client. Another consideration is not understanding an acne condition. This can also contribute to worsening of the condition. There are so many theories about acne treatment, both what will improve the condition and what will harm the condition. There are several pathway and considerations when treating acne, but without correct diagnosis your treatment will not be successful and may even contribute to worsening the condition. Understanding and working with the lymphatic system is also vital to a healthy skin. I believe that working with the immune system and improving gut health prior to any skin treatment is of utmost importance. The skin consultation is the most important procedure that you could ever perform, but you have to have thorough knowledge and understanding of the human body, anatomy of the skin and cell biology to be able to make the correct decisions when treating any skin concern. Our industry is amazing with endless opportunities to change lives for the better, but we have to know what we are doing when it comes to treating skin disorders so that we confidently derive at the desired outcome. APJ If you would like to register and attend one of Gay Wardleâ€™s SKIN ANALYSIS TRAINING classes please visit her website www.masterdermalacademy.com.au
Post-Inflammatory Hyperpigmentation post-ablative treatments A novel approach to minimise the risk
Egor V. Kolodtchenko MD (Koherent Clinic, Ukraine), Anna G. Funikova MD (Academy of Health Clinic, Ukraine), Tiina Meder MD (Meder Beauty International, UK)
POST-INFLAMMATORY HYPERPIGMENTATION (PIH) following laser, or chemical peel ablative treatments are not uncommon, and while skin improvement may have been achieved, the potential resulting pigmentation can contribute to patient dissatisfaction. A group of scientists headed by Koherent Clinic in Ukraine conducted a trial using a cosmetic preparation Nrj-Soin Serum developed by Meder Beauty Science to identify its effectiveness in defending the skin from PIH. The article below is an abstract from the research paper presented by Tiina Meder. Laser treatments in aesthetic medicine have been growing increasingly popular in the past decade, and this trend is likely to persist. Laser can be used for a variety of purposes, from acne therapy to scar and skin tag removal; and controlled epidermal injury is a significant treatment option in aesthetic medicine. According to numerous research studies the risk of side effects and complications resulting from aesthetic laser treatments can be considered low. However, certain side effects that may be classified as insignificant, may cause noticeable discomfort and can lead to the patient’s dissatisfaction with the treatment effect, even when the results are satisfactory from an objective point of view. Among such side effects is pigmentation disturbance caused by epidermal injury and the development of inflammatory changes in the tissue in the process of post-laser recovery. Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH) is one of the most commonly described side effects of laser treatments. Various research data show that the rate of PIH after nonablative fractional laser treatment reaches 31% for melasma therapy, 25% for antiageing correction and 41% for post-acne scarring removal. Ablative laser treatment bears even a higher degree of risk: up to 80% of PIH with CO2 laser and 60% with Erbum YAG laser. The power of laser impact correlates with the risk of post-treatment pigmentation. Generally, patients with already present melasma need to be informed that laser therapy, including non-ablative laser, may increase pigmentation after a single treatment. Thus, PIH prevention must be one of the priorities in the
patient’s preparation for laser treatment. In the past, in the presence of risk factors, such as melasma, PIH manifestation, the use of photosensitising skincare in the previous few weeks and the taking of photosensitising drugs as prophylactic measures were recommended for at least 14–28 days prior to the treatment. Today the standard for PIH prevention is applying topical solutions with confirmed anti-tyrosinase activity. Most commonly used are solutions based on kojic acid, azelaic acid, arbutin and hydroquinone, the latter often used in combination with tretinoin and topical steroids (the use of hydroquinone-containing solutions is banned in EU). Apart from these, the daily use of sunscreens with SPF UVA UVB 30–50 is routinely recommended to laser patients. However, most of the above, with the exception of sunscreens, actually increase the skin’s sensitivity to ultraviolet, exposing patients to the risk of PIH in the recovery period after laser or other treatment involving epidermal injury.
DISCLOSURE Exploring ways that this hyperpigmentation could be minimised a team of researchers conducted a trial. For the purpose of this research 100 bottles of Meder Beauty Science Nrj-Soin Serum were provided. The packaging was 50 ml airless bottles, unmarked. The serum was provided by Meder Beauty International Ltd (UK). The research participants were not rewarded. The clinical professionals, who participated in the research, did not receive any grants, rewards, payments or any other compensation, material or otherwise. This study was conducted without any sponsor support from the manufacturing company. The aim of this research was to explore the possibilities and prospects of PIH prevention with the use of a topical solution with brightening and anti-inflammatory effect which does not increase the skin’s sensitivity to UV radiation.
METHOD This research was conducted in several clinics in Ukraine. 54 women, aged 25–52 participated in the research. Participants were selected to the following criteria: •
Good general health at the time of research
Lack of pigmentation
Fitzpatrick skin photo-type II and III
No ablative CO2 or erbium laser treatments, no medium depth and deep chemical peels in the past
No photosensitising topical solutions used in the previous 4 weeks
No potentially photosensitising medicine taken in the previous 4 weeks
No skin inflammation at the time of treatment
All patients signed informed consent forms and the research aims and methods were explained to them in full. Patients were divided into two groups of 25 and 29 people. In the first group, all patients had fractional ablative Erbium laser resurfacing. Fifteen patients were given a topical solution to use in the 14 days prior to their laser treatment, and then resume application on the 5th day after the treatment and continued for 30 days. The control group of 10 patients did not use topical solutions in the pre and post-treatment periods. The second group of 29 people had a 35% phenol peel. Twenty patients were given a topical solution to use in the 14 days prior their chemical peel, and then resume application on the 5th day after the treatment and continued for 30 days. The control group of 10 patients did not use topical solutions in the pre and post-peel periods. Neither group had any information about the composition, manufacturer or price of their topical solution. The topical solution recommended to research participants was a water solution of: •
blueberry leaf and berry extract (3.42%)
cane sugar (1.5%)
sweet orange extract (0.48%)
citrus medica extract (0.48%)
aloe barbadensis leaf juice (0.2%)
Canadian maple juice (0.18%)
The expected effects of the solution were: a stronger antioxidant protection of the skin; the smoothing of epidermal keratinous layer; reduced activity of melanocytekeratinocyte melanin transfer; the decrease of melanin synthesis due to the deactivation of tyrosinase; restoration of capillary tone in the microcirculatory bed. The effect was achieved with synergetic impact of niacinamide and a complex of natural anti-oxidants in the citruses and blueberry extracts, combined with the effect of maple and sugar cane syrups’ polysaccharides, aloe and xanthan gum. The solution creates a protective film on the skin surface creating favourable conditions for comfortable recovery. At the same time, the solution subdues inflammatory reactions, activates epidermal regeneration and stimulates the syntheses of dermal structural elements. The effect of ingredients applied:
1. Topical application of niacinamide has a whole range of confirmed effects on the skin. In particular, applying niacinamide-containing solutions for several weeks allows the reduction of trans-epidermal water loss (up to 24% in 4 weeks) by increasing the contents of free fatty acids (67%) and ceramides (34%) in the keratinous layer of the skin. The syntheses of epidermal proteins: keratin, filaggrin and involucrin is also known to increase. Together these proteins optimise the aggregation of keratinocytes in the keratinous layer, preserve the integrity of corneous envelopes of corneocytes and the smooth structure of the keratinous layer. Studies of niacinamide effect on the human fibroblast culture has revealed the increased syntheses of new fibroblasts (20%) and collagen type I (54%). Niacinamide is widely used as a brightening agent, which is especially active during the therapy of post-traumatic, postinflammatory and chronic recurring hyperpigmentation. The mechanics of niacinamide action is as follows. Niacinamide inhibits the melanocyte-to-keratinocyte transfer of pigment granules (melanosomes) (up to 68% in vitro in the co-culture of melanocytes and keratinocytes). Niacinamide acts in synergy with certain anti-oxidants, increasing the effect of anti-oxidant impact and advancing all the results described above.
2. Blueberry extract contains specific anthocyanins and polyphenols with anti-oxidant effect. They are also able to reduce the damaging effect of oxidative stress, prevent the skin’s photo damage, especially when connected with UVB damage. Anthocyanins are capable of absorbing a wide spectrum of UV rays, helping reduce the skin’s sensitivity to ultraviolet radiation with daily use. Blueberry anthocyanins in particular (cyanidin-3-glucoside, petunidin-3-glucoside, malvidin-3-glucoside, and delphinidin-3-glucoside) can also prevent the overexpression of genes responsible for the synthesis of metal proteinase and the suppression of collagen synthesis by dermal fibroblasts. 3. Aloe barbadensis (aloe vera) juice extract contains over 75 active agents with pronounced biological effect. Polysaccharide glucomannan and gibberellin interact with the fibroblasts’ growth factor receptors and stimulate the proliferative activity of the cells leading to the activation of collagen synthesis. The topical application of aloe juice extract is known to increase the synthesis of hyaluronic acid and dermatan sulphate in the granulation tissue after an injury, as well as the increase of proliferation-promoting activity of dermal cells in general accelerating healing and oxygenation. Aloe juice extract has antiinflammatory effect as well, due to its ability to inhibit the cyclooxygenase pathway of inflammation and to reduce the activity of prostaglandin E2. It appears, that this particular effect of aloe extract is due to its contents of C-glycosyl chromone. Finally, aloe has a proven anti-oxidant effect thanks to glutathione peroxide superoxide dismutase and some phenol derivatives. 4. Cane sugar extract contains natural flavonoids and phenolic acids with pronounced anti-oxidant effect. The daily application of solutions with cane sugar extract helps reduce the negative effects of oxidative stress and UV-related damage in various skin structures. 5. The maple (Acer rubrum) is a rich source of phenolic compounds which possess galloyl groups. While these glucitol-core containing gallotannins (GCGs) have reported anti-oxidant and anti-glycative effects and also the anti-tyrosinase and anti-melanogenic effects of a proprietary phenolic-enriched red maple leaves extract. The extract is able to: (1) reduce the levels of reactive oxygen species, (2) down-regulate the expression of MITF, TYR, TRP-1, and TRP-2 gene levels in a time-dependent manner, and (3) significantly reduce protein expression of the TRP-2 gene. Therefore, the anti-melanogenic effects of red maple GCGs helps reduce a risk of PIH. 6. Citrus medica extract is a source of natural ascorbic acid and different flavonoids, including nobiletin, hesperidin et al. The extract helps smooth and brighten the skin because of tyrosinase inhibition effect, prevents inflammatory reaction and accelerates healing process after an injury. 7. Sweet orange extract (Citrus Aurantium extract) contains a range of low-molecular substances with anti-inflammatory and capillary-strengthening effect, also with a capacity for tyrosinase inhibition (TI) and pigment inhibition.
RESULT OF TRIAL 100% of patients in both groups noted good tolerability of the solution, ease of application and lack of pronounced subjective sensations during the application, both in pre and post-treatment (phenol peel and fractional ablative Erbium laser resurfacing) periods. Neither group has shown any side effects potentially connected to the use of the solution. In group 1, among the patients who used the solution, there were no cases of PIH, whereas in the control group 1 case of PIH was diagnosed and the patient received additional therapy to correct hyperpigmentation. The rate of shedding the crusts among the patients who used the solution was 3–4 days, in the control group it was 5–7 days. Group 2 displayed similar results. Among the patients who used the solution there were no cases of PIH, while in the control group 1 case of PIH was diagnosed and additional therapy prescribed. The rate of crust shedding was 3–4 days for the patients who used the solution, and 5–7 days for the patients in the control group. The data is summed up below. Method
Number of patients
Rate of PIH (%)
Rate of crust shedding (days)
35% phenol peeling, with the solution
35% phenol peeling, control group
Ablative Erbium laser resurfacing, with the solution
Ablative Erbium laser resurfacing. Control group
CONCLUSION Given the results of this research, we can suppose that the application of a topical solution based on plant extracts and niacinamide in the periods of preparation for and rehabilitation after laser treatment or deep chemical peel is highly likely to shorten the recovery period and reduce the risk of post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH). A shorter recovery period and a reduced possibility of the most common side effect increases the patients’ satisfaction, improves their socialisation and makes the early rehabilitation period more comfortable, which is beneficial for the remote results of the treatment, and the performance of clinic and its practitioners. Good tolerability and lack of contraindications make the solution suitable for preparation and recovery after laser treatments and chemical peels combined with sun protection. APJ This article was submitted by Spectrum Science and Beauty. If you would like to access this product or other Meder skincare formulations please contact 1300 766 198.
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DIABETES and its impact on Wound Healing By Tina Viney
I RECENTLY was asked to provide expert advice on a legal case where a gentleman had experienced a misadventure as a result of a pedicure that he had received. My role was to review the procedure and provide expert advice on the correct protocols, regulatory compliance and identify in my expert opinion, what may have contributed to the mishap. This poor man had been diagnosed with Type 2 diabetes, but was never asked about his health condition by the salon – no health assessment or client consultation was performed. During the procedure, his feet we immersed in hot water, however, due to poor sensation as a result of neuropathy, he was unable to feel that the water was too hot. Furthermore, skin removal from the soles of his feet further contributed to the trauma. By the time he arrived home both his feet we bleeding heavily. When he reported this to the salon he was sent to hospital. The hospital ascertained that he had sustained severe burns and while every attempt was made to remedy the situation, his condition progressed to potential gangrene. The outcome was that his right leg was amputated from the knee down and his left foot had three toes amputated.
AUSTRALIAN STATISTICS According to Diabetes Australia 280 Australians develop diabetes every day. That’s one person every five minutes and it is estimated that around 1.7 million Australians have diabetes. This includes all types of diagnosed diabetes (1.2 million known and registered) as well as silent, undiagnosed type 2 diabetes (up to 500,000) estimated. More than 100,000 Australians have developed diabetes in the past year. For every person diagnosed with diabetes there is usually a family member or carer who also ‘lives with diabetes’ every day in a support role. This means that an estimated 2.4 million Australians are affected by diabetes every day.
AMPUTATIONS I was shocked to discover that there are more than 4,400 amputations every year in Australia as a result of diabetes. In 2005, more than 1000 people with diabetes died as a direct result of foot ulcers and lower limb wounds – around 8% of all diabetes related deaths.
Reviewing this case was very distressing for me and I cannot begin to imagine the state of the poor man. I realised how important it is for us as practitioners to understand the impact of diabetes on health and wound healing, especially with procedures that create a trauma, such as skin needling, cosmetic tattooing treatments and any other treatment where a wound is created.
Every year there are 10,000 hospital admissions in Australia for diabetes-related foot ulcers in Australia – many of these, end up with people having a limb, or part of a limb, amputated. Experts estimate diabetic foot disease costs Australia around $875 million every single year. (Source: Based on research from the Australian Diabetic Foot Network.)
In this article we will look at the statistics of diabetes in Australia. The growing numbers suggest that more than likely, you will at some stage end up with a diabetic client in your treatment room. It is also important to know that some individuals who are diabetic may not have yet been formally diagnosed, so understanding the symptoms will allow you to be alerted to an undiagnosed case.
Recent new research suggests investing in evidence-based care for Australians with diabetic foot ulcers could save around $2.7 billion over five years. That is around $9,000 per person aged under 75 and $12,000 per person aged over 75 (both over five years). By the way, the gentleman in question was just in his 50s. Furthermore, diabetes is the fastest growing chronic
condition in Australia; increasing at a faster rate than other chronic diseases such as heart disease and cancer. All types of diabetes are increasing in prevalence. These are:
Instead of being turned into energy the glucose stays in the blood resulting in high blood glucose levels. After eating, the glucose is carried around your body in the blood. Blood glucose level is called glycaemia, these can be monitored and managed through selfcare and treatment.
Type 1 diabetes accounts for 10% of all diabetes and is increasing
Type 2 diabetes accounts for 85% of all diabetes and is increasing
Three things you need to know about diabetes:
Gestational diabetes in pregnancy is increasing
First, is that it is not one condition — there are three main types of diabetes: type 1, type 2 and gestational diabetes
WHAT IS DIABETES?
All types of diabetes are complex and require daily care and management
Diabetes is a serious complex condition which can affect the entire body. Diabetes requires daily selfcare and if complications develop, diabetes can have a significant impact on quality of life and can reduce life expectancy. While there is currently no cure for diabetes, you can live an enjoyable life by learning about the condition and effectively managing it.
Diabetes does not discriminate, anyone can develop diabetes
As stated above, there are different types of diabetes; all types are complex and serious.
HOW DOES DIABETES AFFECT THE BODY? When someone has diabetes, their body can’t maintain healthy levels of glucose in the blood. Glucose is a form of sugar which is the main source of energy for our bodies. Unhealthy levels of glucose in the blood can lead to long term and short-term health complications. For our bodies to work properly we need to convert glucose (sugar) from food into energy. The hormone insulin is essential for the conversion of glucose into energy. In people with diabetes, insulin is no longer produced, or not produced in sufficient amounts by the body. When people with diabetes eat glucose, which is in foods such as breads, cereals, fruit and starchy vegetables, legumes, milk, yoghurt and sweets, it can’t be converted into energy.
DIABETES IS SERIOUS Diabetes can be managed well, but the potential complications are the same for type 1 and type 2 diabetes including heart attack, stroke, kidney disease, limb amputation, depression, anxiety and blindness. We know diabetes: •
Is the leading cause of blindness in working age adults
Is a leading cause of kidney failure and dialysis
Increases the risk of heart attacks and stroke by up to four times
Is a major cause of limb amputations
Affects mental health as well as physical health. Depression, anxiety and distress occur in more than 30% of all people with diabetes
Early diagnosis, optimal treatment and effective ongoing support and management reduce the risk of diabetes-related complications. APJ 77
COMMON SYMPTOMS TO BE AWARE OF In type 1 diabetes, symptoms are often sudden and can be life-threatening; therefore, it is usually diagnosed quite quickly. In type 2 diabetes, many people have no symptoms at all, while other signs can go unnoticed being seen as part of ‘getting older’. Therefore, by the time symptoms are noticed, complications of diabetes may already be present. Here are some of the most common symptoms to look out for: •
Being more thirsty than usual
Passing more urine
Feeling tired and lethargic
Always feeling hungry
Having cuts that heal slowly
Itching, skin infections
Unexplained weight loss (type 1)
Gradually putting on weight (type 2)
BLOOD GLUCOSE LEVELS It all starts here. An elevated blood sugar level stiffens the arteries and causes narrowing of the blood vessels. The effects of this are far-reaching and include the origin of wounds as well as risk factors to proper wound healing. Understanding this factor is critical if you are about to perform a treatment where a wound will be created.
POOR CIRCULATION Narrowed blood vessels lead to decreased blood flow and oxygen to a wound. An elevated blood sugar level decreases the function of red blood cells that carry nutrients to the tissue. This lowers the efficiency of the white blood cells that fight infection. Without sufficient nutrients and oxygen, a wound heals slowly.
body's defence system against infection. A high glucose level causes the immune cells to function ineffectively, which raises the risk of infection for the patient. Studies indicate that particular enzymes and hormones that the body produces in response to an elevated blood sugar are responsible for negatively impacting the immune system.
INFECTION With a poorly functioning immune system, diabetics are at a higher risk for developing an infection. Infection raises many health concerns and also slows the overall healing process. Left untreated, infection can heighten the risk of developing gangrene, sepsis or a bone infection like osteomyelitis.
WHAT YOU CAN DO TO IMPROVE HEALING There are several things a patient can do to improve wound healing. The most important thing is to control the blood sugar level. Healing can be improved by taking these measures: •
Eating a healthy diet and maintaining good nutrition will help to regulate blood glucose levels and also provide the essential vitamins and nutrients to enhance the healing process. Adequate protein, carbohydrates and vitamin C intake are important factors to aid healing. Seek the advice of a health professional who specialises in diabetes, if necessary.
Diabetics need to be aware of their body, especially if they experience diabetic neuropathy. Regularly check for open wounds or pressure points that could develop into a wound. Watch for signs of infection. If these symptoms are present the patient needs to seek medical attention if they develop areas of concern.
Keep pressure off of a wound to aid healing.
Chronic inflammation is a common symptom in many chronic diseases, including diabetes. By engaging in regular aerobic exercise, chronic inflammation can be reduced. Exercise lowers the blood sugar and also helps with weight management, another factor in keeping blood glucose levels controlled.
Cardiovascular health is important to maintaining good circulation for both the healing of existing wounds and prevention of future wound development.
Stop smoking to improve circulation and overall health.
The coordination of a multidisciplinary team of healthcare professionals to diagnose and treat a slow healing wound is critical to the overall health of a diabetic patient. Preventing the development of an open wound is important. Once a wound has manifested, it is critical to get the proper treatment plan in place as soon as possible.
Perhaps one of the most dangerous symptoms of diabetes is the issue of neuropathy, where the sensation of pain is compromised.
PERFORMING AESTHETIC PROCEDURES
When blood glucose levels are uncontrolled, nerves in the body are affected and patients can develop a loss of sensation. This is called diabetic neuropathy. When there is a loss of sensation, patients cannot feel a developing blister, infection or surgical wound problem. Because a diabetic patient may not be able to feel a change in the status of a wound or the actual wound, the severity can progress and there may be complications with healing.
If your client or patient is a diabetic, or exhibits symptoms of diabetes, a procedure that will induce a wound may be contra-indicated. It is therefore highly recommended that you gain medical approval before proceeding with such a procedure. This is where a thorough and comprehensive Client Consultation Form is so important that also carefully examine health issues and symptoms that may reveal area that require closer investigation. APJ
IMMUNE SYSTEM DEFICIENCY
Diabetes Australia also provide a NDSS Helpline offering great support 1300 136 588.
Diabetes lowers the efficiency of the immune system, the APJ 78
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14th NATIONAL LASER & COSMETIC MEDICINE CONFERENCE 3 - 4 NOVEMBER 2018 SOFITEL BRISBANE CENTRAL
PRE CONFERENCE WORKSHOP 31 OCTOBER - 2 NOVEMBER 2018
ACAM recognises the need for better regulation of the dynamic and fast-paced cosmetic industry and the conference will include
Keynote presentations from renowned and impartial international and national experts
Live product demonstrations
An extensive industry exhibition with state of the
updates from regulatory bodies and medico-legal specialists.
Australasian College of Aesthetic Medicine
What delegates said about the 2017 conference Very educational and professional The quality of the conference was exceptional
This is a very well-priced conference in the cosmetic area Conference was pitched well with good speakers giving great take-home advice on practical matters rather than esoteric and high-powered facts
art equipment and products
It’s the best conference I attend all year
Streamed sessions to suit
Excellent speakers and program
medical or allied health
A very high-quality conference
Most definitely I will attend next year
Face-to-face interaction with colleagues to truly deepen your understanding of the industry and share invaluable knowledge
LCMC is Australia’s premier cosmetic medicine conference with RACGP, Australian College of Nursing and Australian College of Rural and Remote Medicine CME accreditation.
Avoid missing the conference of the year by marking your calendar today... in pen! 3 – 4 November 2018 Sofitel Brisbane Central
Key Dates Call for papers
1 May 2018
Online registration opens
1 June 2018
Early bird deadline
1 October 2018
For further information please visit:
LASER & COSMETIC MEDICINE CONFERENCE 3 - 4 NOVEMBER 2018 SOFITEL BRISBANE CENTRAL PRE-CONFERENCE WORKSHOP
31 OCTOBER - 2 NOVEMBER
This is the accredited conference you can’t afford to miss!
Australasian College of Aesthetic Medicine
Endorsed by the Australasian College of Aesthetic Medicine (ACAM), the National Laser & Cosmetic Medicine Conference is Australia’s premier conference designed for professionals such as
cosmetic physicians, cosmetic and plastic surgeons, dermatologists, cosmetic nurses and other cosmetic practitioners seeking to update their skills or expand
their expertise in laser and cosmetic medicine.
COMEDOGENICITY AND SKINCARE FORMULATIONS By Jacine Greenwood
WHEN WORKING with acne-prone skin the issue of accessing appropriate ingredients becomes important, particularly because certain ingredients may contribute, or aggravate the condition. Jacine Greenwood is known within the industry as a cosmetic ingredient expert. In this article she presents research findings on cosmetic formulations and comedogenesis. Comedogenicity refers to the ability of a cosmetic, or an ingredient to cause the formation of microcomedones, scaling
inside the follicle and hyperkeratosis. It is of relevance to the skin therapist when treating acne clients. If the client continues to use comedogenic products or ingredients, the clearance of acne is inhibited and often will not improve. In the majority of instances when a therapist, or client has asked for advice regarding failure to clear acne, in 99% of the time it is because they are unknowingly using comedogenic cosmetics. The term “acne cosmetica” was coined by doctors Kligman and Mills. Comedogenicity is a process that takes months to form. There are two types of acne cosmetica. The first, is true aggravation of acne in which the formation of comedones is promoted — a process that develops slowly over many months. The second, is that of the folliculitis in which chemical irritation of the follicular epithelium by the cosmetic product is attended by inflammatory pustules and papules that develop within a relatively short time. This inflammatory reaction has usually been included under the rubric of comedogenesis, but is not truly representative of it. The term acnegenesis was developed to be representative of the inflammatory reaction involved. Acnegenicity explains the reason why some clients experience breakouts after having a facial. This can be due to potential irritation of cosmetics as well as irritation from extraction or treatment.
COMEDOGENICITY TESTING The original comedogenicity testing was conducted on animals, specifically rabbit ears by dermatologist and coinventor of Retin-A Dr James Fulton. Rabbit ears where used to determine comedogenicity, comparing whether they were able to be achieved within 3-4 weeks, versus months. Further studies on comedogenicity however, revealed that the rabbit ear was much more sensitive than human skin and that the results100 were not necessarily accurate. The rabbit ear model is known as a non-histological model. 95
A further study done on comedogenicity testing on humans 75 found that moderately to strongly comedogenic ingredients in the rabbit ear have been found to be capable of inducing blackheads in the human model. Substances that are only weakly25comedogenic in the rabbit ear are most likely safe with the exception of acne-prone skins. Dr Fulton concluded that while weak comedogenicity is not an issue for normal 5 skin, they are a concern for acne prone skin. However, it is 0 advisable to avoid all comedogenic ingredients if possible.
APJ 82 Bitmap in CEO Report Mar17 Friday, 15 September 2017 3:32:07 PM
Acne skins naturally have a hyper-proliferative state occurring within the follicle. Many ingredients that are comedogenic increase even further this hyperkeratosis, which is why it is advisable to avoid them.
HOW IS COMEDOGENICITY TESTING PERFORMED? The standard industry method of testing is on males. The procedure involves applying 0.2mls-0.5mls of product to the back of acne prone men with large follicles and are then covered by occlusion. The substances are applied three times a week for four weeks and then assessed for comedogenic potential. The degree of follicular hyperkeratosis (scaling and hyperproliferation) is assessed after one month to determine the degree of comedogenicity. The method they use to assess the hyperkeratosis is by using a technique involving a fastsetting cyanoacrylate glue to remove the contents of the follicle. The glue is applied to a glass slide, which is firmly placed on the upper back. Upon curing the glue, the slide is examined microscopically to determine the number of follicles and microcomedones per square centimeter. Earlier comedogenicity studies used an arbitrary scale of either 0-3 or 0-5 for ranking the comedogenicity of ingredients. This scale however was not accurate and subject to interpretation. 0-1 on this scale represented non comedogenic. 2-3 represented moderately comedogenic and 4-5 severely comedogenic. This older method of grading was very subjective. In order for the grading system to not be subjective, newer methods of assessing comedogenicity involves measuring the mean ratio of follicles to microcomedones, prior to application of the ingredient. The percentage of change from the baseline measurement indicates the degree of comedogenicity. This can be used for both individual ingredients as well as a final formula. When the percentage difference of follicular distention from baseline measurements changes less than 50% the ingredient or formula is considered non-comedogenic. A change of 50100% from baseline is considered to be comedogenic.
HISTOLOGICAL AND NON-HISTOLOGICAL ASSESSMENT MODELS There are two models of assessing comedogenicity. The histological model assesses the whole follicle, while a nonhistological model can only be viewed visually. Follicular distention can be viewed, however follicular dilation and distention can be misinterpreted. Follicular dilation does not necessarily mean impaction and comedone formation. Any ingredient that has the potential to cause irritation can cause follicular dilation and distention, but may have no comedogenic activity when the follicle is evaluated histologically.
ANIMAL TESTING VERSUS HUMAN TESTING
The testing of these cosmetic ingredients originally was used Histological Model Comedogenic activity Scale 0-5
Non-histological model comedogenic activity scale 0-5
Cetyl Alcohol 1-5%
Glyceryl Stearate <1%
Stearic Acid <1%
at various concentrations, some of which would not typically be used in cosmetics at the percentages tested. The validity of the original testing as a result has been questioned on numerous occasions. Draelos and DiNardo studied the effects of cosmetic ingredients used within normal percentages in cosmetics. The results of the comedogenicity of ingredients varied remarkably compared to the original tests done by Dr Kligman. As you can see from the table below the ingredients when tested individually varied in their ability to form APJ 83
comedones. Some ingredients such as beeswax where found to be more comedogenic than the original non-histological tests done. Other ingredients such as Glyceryl Stearate have been shown to be more comedogenic than previously found.
NON-HISTOLOGIAL MODELS ARE NOT RELIABLE Non-comedogenic claims are difficult as there is no regulation in the industry to prove them. There are many who claim non-comedogenic who are not. It is important to recognise that the human model has strengths and weaknesses, as does the animal model for comedogenicity assessment. The human model uses exaggerated conditions to extrapolate the results to a broad population. First, the test materials are applied under occlusion to the back for four weeks as opposed to topical facial application in actual use. This enhances product absorption and penetration, and the ability to evoke microcomedone formation. Second, panelist selection requires the presence of prominent follicular orifices indicating the propensity to form microcomedones. Third, this is but one of many tests used by reputable manufacturers to determine safety. Most combine comedogenicity testing with a clinical use test whereby individuals use the products under normal conditions of use for several weeks carefully noting the presence of comedone and acne formation. So, should all skin types avoid the use of comedogenic ingredients? Comedogenicity testing is only of validity to those who are acne prone, and the use of these same ingredients in a dry skin would have proven benefit for them. Many barrier repair ingredients also happen to be comedogenic. For example, ingredients such as Isostearyl Stearate has been shown to work in synergy with the lipid bilayers of the skin, stabilising them into a more tightly packed structure preventing moisture loss. It has been shown to outperform petrolatum with reducing transepidermal water loss. It is also however highly comedogenic. Newer ingredients that have emerged onto the market, particularly in foundations include Polyglyceryl-4 Isostearate. This ingredient is a water-in-oil emulsifier which is why it is used with foundations due to the high silicone and oil content contained in them. It is a green ingredient and due to the move away from silicones, is used widely in the industry. It is also however comedogenic. The challenge for the skin therapist is that there are many new ingredients emerging onto the market that either there are no comedogenicity APJ 84
Glyceryl Stearate SE
testing being performed, or this information is not available. This means that their clients could be unknowingly using a product that is contributing to their acne. The emergence of natural skincare brings with it a host of new issues for the skincare therapist with many of these ingredients being problematic for acne skins. Shea butter, which is used in many formulations, has been mistakenly assumed for years to be non-comedogenic. There are no studies showing that shea butter is non-comedogenic. There are however studies showing that it is indeed not acne safe, and contributes to the formation of comedones in acneic skins. Clinical trials with as low as 0.5%, have resulted in comedogenesis in acne clients. Many consumers and therapists use “Google” as their search tool to check for comedogenicity. Many suppliers do not put their technical information on Google and it is an unreliable source of information for the comedogenicity status of ingredients. The comedogenic lists that are populated online are also highly inaccurate. Coconut Alkanes is a commonly sighted comedogenic ingredient, yet clinical testing has proven it is totally non-comedogenic. A quick Google search though and you will find hundreds of sites claiming the exact opposite. So, does a product that contains an ingredient that is comedogenic automatically mean that the product is comedogenic? No, it doesn’t. The challenge is though that many companies do not perform any comedogenicity testing. The recommendation is that if the product does contain known comedogenic ingredients, even if they are in small percentages, it is best practice to ask for evidence of the comedogenicity testing of the product. If the company can provide evidence of this, then you can be assured that the product is indeed acne safe. The alternative is to avoid altogether for your acne clients, ingredients that are known to be problematic.
IN CONCLUSION The screening of existing products is an important part of an acne treatment plan, the detection of comedogenic ingredients being vital. Due to the increase in online sales many consumers purchase products outside the skin clinic; and it is important to be able to identify potential ingredients that can be problematic for their acne clients. APJ
“Protecting your Interests”
NEW LOCATION – NEW OPTIONS Moving from strength-to-strength
For a new Business Client-Care Assessment or to review your current policies please contact THE SPARROW GROUP 07 5502 8326 email@example.com www.thesparrowgroup.com.au APJ 85
CONTINUING PROFESSIONAL DEVELOPMENT (CPD) PROGRAM AS A NATIONAL STANDARDS BODY APAN provides membership opportunity for a diverse range of practitioners and business owners in aesthetics, dermal therapies, cosmetic tattooists, cosmetic nurses and cosmetic doctors. Members are provided with support in a variety of areas including business advice, industrial relations and wage concerns, regulatory compliance, discounted services, access to best practice documents as well as discounts for APAN sponsored conferences and professional development courses.
WHAT DOES ARAP OR CTARP REGISTRATION MEAN FOR YOU?
RECOGNITION FOR YOUR CREDENTIALS
INTRODUCING CPD POINTS
However, when it comes to assessing your qualifications and confirming and recognising your credentials that activity comes under a separate banner known as ARAP (for dermal therapists and aestheticians) and CTARP (for cosmetic tattooists). This is the formal APAN registration program and it is protected by a national trademark, which means that only those who have successful met the merit criteria will be allowed to use the acronym ARAP (APAN REGISTERED AESTHETIC PRACTITIONER), or CTARP (COSMETIC TATTOO APAN REGISTERED PRACTITIONER). Applicants are required to submit their credentials for assessment and if their qualifications meet with the necessary requirements, they will be awarded the appropriate status, which they can promote in their advertising. APAN will also promote them on the NATIONAL REGISTRY for consumers to access their details on their website.
There is a great deal of unrest among qualified practitioners who have worked hard to gain qualifications for the modalities they are performing, meanwhile there are others who are practicing as dermal therapists, laser and IPL practitioners, or cosmetic tattooists with no qualifications. This is because there is no regulatory instrument to prohibit them from doing do. ARAP and CTRP registration is an industry initiative that objectively assesses practitioner qualifications allowing them to gain recognition from an independent industry peak body acknowledging that they are indeed qualified to perform their professional responsibilities. This recognition sets them apart with an additional level of credibility that they can advertise and promote.
ARAP and CTARP practitioners are now required to provide evidence of their ongoing CONTINUING PROFESSIONAL DEVELOPMENT (commonly abbreviated as CPD). The new CPD program was launched in July this year and full details are now available on the APAN website. The CPD program refers to the process of tracking and documenting the skills, knowledge and experience that you gain, both formally and informally as you work, beyond your initial training. It is a formal record of what you experience, learn and then apply. Professionals who are registered through the ARAP or CTARP programs must complete mandatory CPD requirements in order to maintain their registration.
MAINTAINING YOUR ARAP OR CTARP REGISTRATION To maintain your ARAP or CTARP registration you must complete and provide evidence of your investment in your on-going education and professional development to the accrued value of 15 points per year through educational activities and educational providers that are approved by APAN. You can access this information from the APAN website www.apanetwork.com.
PROFESSIONALISM REQUIRED OBJECTIVE VALIDATION AND EVIDENCE OF ON-GOING COMMITMENT TO CURRENCY OF SKILLS AND KNOWLEDGE. APAN extends an invitation to all qualified professional to submit their qualifications and gain ARAP or CTARP registration. Gain validation of your credentials by a peak industry body that will vouch for your integrity. For further details Ph: 07 5593 0360 or www.apanetwork.com
APAN’s standards recognition program now linked to continuing PROFESSIONAL DEVELOPMENT (CPD) PROGRAM As of July 2018, the CTARP and ARAP programs are now linked to a more comprehensive Continuing Professional Development (CPD) Program.
‘Let your credibility be your competitive advantage’
Practitioner Clinical Associate Educator Master Educator
Who can apply: • • • •
Aesthetic practitioners Dermal therapists Dermal Clinicians Educators
• • • • •
For further information visit www.apanetwork.com/arap and complete an online Application Form.
There are five ARAP registration classifications:
THE GROWING EPIDEMIC
BODY DYSMORPHIC DISORDER AND CLINICAL PRACTICE by Tina Viney MOST OF US have something we don't like about our appearance — a crooked nose, an uneven smile, or eyes that are too large or too small. And though we may fret about our imperfections, they don’t interfere with our daily lives. But people who have body dysmorphic disorder (BDD) think about their real, or perceived flaws for hours each day. They can't control their negative thoughts and don't believe people who tell them that they look fine. Their thoughts may cause severe emotional distress and interfere with their daily functioning. They may miss work or school, avoid social situations and isolate themselves even from family and friends, because they fear others will notice their flaws. With the advent of social media, editing filters and various tools that can help us create a more attractive version of ourselves believing that we can actually look like that is a growing phenomenon, particular amoung young girls who are still trying to discover who they are. You may be familiar with images of Amanda Ahola who almost died to look like Barbie despite the fact that she was a very attractive girl to start with. People with BDD can dislike any part of their body, although they often find fault with their hair, skin, nose, chest, or stomach. In reality, a perceived defect may be only a slight imperfection, or even non-existent. But for someone with BDD, the flaw is significant and prominent, often causing severe emotional distress and difficulties in daily functioning. The latest research confirms that BDD most often develops in adolescents and teens, and research shows that it affects men and women almost equally. In the United States, BDD occurs in about 2.5% of males, and in 2.2 % of females. BDD often begins to occur in adolescents 12-13 years of age (American Psychiatric Association, 2013). The causes of BDD are unclear, but certain biological and environmental factors are considered to contribute to its development, including genetic predisposition, neurobiological factors, such as malfunctioning of serotonin in the brain, personality traits, and life experiences (e.g. child maltreatment, sexual trauma, peer-abuse).
A GROWING PHENOMENON
Throughout our consultation with our members we are finding more and more practitioners are challenged by individuals who have unrealistic expectations about how they can look and can become both obsessive, as well as abusive if the practitioner is not delivering what they want and how they perceive they should look. While not everyone who may have unrealistic expectations of how they can look is dysmorphic, with the growing phenomenon of dysmorphia the chances that you may be approached by some individual with this disorder for your services may be quite probable, so it is important to gain some knowledge on this condition. The purpose of this article is to shed some light on the disorder and to also discuss your professional options as a practitioner in dealing with clients whom you consider to have unrealistic expectations. Let’s first look at the signs and symptoms of BDD.
SYMPTOMS OF BODY DYSMORPHIC DISORDER
People with BDD suffer from obsessions about their appearance that can last for hours or up to an entire day. Hard to resist or control, these obsessions make it difficult for people with BDD to focus on anything other than their imperfections. This can lead to low self-esteem, avoidance of social situations, and problems at work or school. Also, BDD sufferers may perform some type of compulsive, or repetitive behaviour to try to hide or improve their flaws although these behaviours usually give only temporary relief, so look out for those symptoms. Examples are listed below: •
camouflaging (with body position, clothing, makeup, hair, hats, etc.)
comparing body part to others' appearance
consistently checking in a mirror
or even avoiding mirrors
excessively changing clothes
BDD AND OTHER MENTAL HEALTH DISORDERS
It is important that we understand that BDD is actually a psychiatric disorder. This condition does not go away on its own, it requires appropriate medical treatment. People with BDD commonly also suffer from anxiety disorders, such as social anxiety disorder, as well as other disorders such as depression, eating disorders, or obsessive-compulsive disorder (OCD). BDD can also be misdiagnosed as one of these disorders because they share similar symptoms. The intrusive thoughts and repetitive behaviours exhibited in BDD are similar to the obsessions and compulsions of OCD. BDD is distinguished from OCD when the preoccupations or repetitive behaviours focus specifically on appearance. Avoiding social situations in BDD may be due to shame or embarrassment of one’s physical appearance and is similar to the behaviour of some people with social anxiety disorder.
If you are suspecting that someone is dysmorphic it is important that you refer them to a doctor. To get an accurate diagnosis and determine appropriate treatment, the doctor or mental health professional will discuss their specific concerns with their appearance when they talk to a doctor or mental health professional. With effective treatment BDD sufferers can live full, productive lives. Some of the treatment options include Cognitive-behavioural therapy (CBT). This therapy teaches patients to recognise irrational thoughts and change negative thinking patterns. Patients learn to identify unhealthy ways of thinking and behaving and replace them with positive ones. Another approach involves antidepressant medications, including selective serotonin reuptake inhibitors (SSRIs), which can help relieve the obsessive and compulsive symptoms of BDD. The appropriate treatment is tailored to each patient by a doctor who may recommend using a combination of treatments for best results.
One of the most concerning aspects of BDD from a clinical perspective is these individuals’ pursuit of non-mental health treatments, such as surgery, or dermatologic treatment for a mental health problem. The prevalence of BDD among individuals who seek cosmetic surgical as well as nonsurgical treatments is consistently higher than BDD’s estimated prevalence in the general population. Conversely, a high proportion of persons with BDD seek aesthetic procedures to improve their perceived appearance defects. The limited literature on changes in BDD symptoms and psychosocial functioning after these treatments suggest however, even with cosmetic procedures, outcomes appear to often be poor. BDD symptom improvement is rare, and at best, temporary; there also is risk for symptom exacerbation. Provision of cosmetic treatment for BDD concerns may also involve risks for both patients and clinicians. Taken together, these findings from a study suggested that BDD is a contraindication for cosmetic procedures.
So, what does that mean to you? Most of the common problems we encounter are with cosmetic tattooists or with cosmetic nurses who are harassed to deliver injectable procedures that they believe in their professional opinion, are excessive and innappropriate for that individual. From an ethics point of view, you are within your rights to not go ahead with a procedure that you believe is excessive and a reflection of obsessive behaviour. You can politely state that in your professional judgement you do not believe that they will be happy with the outcome of the treatment they want you to perform and therefore do not believe you are the right practitioner for them. If you are working with a doctor, you may wish to refer them for a consultation about their perceived needs. A doctor can then evaluate and further investigate their stress levels and their potential mental health status if deemed necessary. If you wish to review scientific articles on BDD here is excellence one to reference. APJ https://www.cambridge.org/core/journals/the-british-journalof-psychiatry/article/body-dysmorphic-disorder/B73B2D3368 03DD391F9988EB47376493
Changes to WA Laser Laws Article submitted by April Jorgensen Director, Niche Education Group IN MAY 2018, the Radiological Council of Western Australia amended the laser licensing laws in WA to allow nonmedical practitioners to operate Class 3B and Class 4 laser devices. The amendment has been welcomed by the dermal profession as previously only medical or dental practitioners could use Class 3B and Class 4 lasers. This significantly limited treatment options in non-medical clinics and created a bias towards intense pulsed light modalities. The laser licensing laws in WA are established and governed by the Radiological Council of WA as part of the Department of Health. The new laws apply to Beauty Therapists, Dermal Therapists/Clinicians and Enrolled or Registered Nurses. These changes do not apply to medical doctors. To gain a licence exemption (the term exemption is used in reference of being exempt from holding medical practitioner status), applicants must adhere to a strict criterium as outlined for each licensing category: Superficial Cosmetic Laser Procedures Category:
1. Hold a Certificate IV or Diploma of Beauty Therapy (or equivalent dermal qualification) or hold registration with AHPRA as an Enrolled or Registered Nurse; 2. Hold a recognised laser safety certificate; 3. 50 hours immediate supervision for treatment of vascular lesions (excludes varicose veins); 4. 50 hours of immediate supervision for treatment of pigmented lesions
Hair Reduction Category:
1. Hold a Certificate IV or Diploma of Beauty Therapy (or equivalent dermal qualification) or hold registration with AHPRA as an Enrolled or Registered Nurse; 2. Hold a recognised laser safety certificate; 3. 50 hours immediate supervision for treatment of hair reduction Tattoo Removal Category:
1. Hold registration with AHPRA as a Registered Nurse and have 5 years nursing experience; 2. Hold a recognised laser safety certificate; 3. Complete an approved laser tattoo removal course; 4. 50 hours immediate supervision for treatment of tattoo removal
ADDITIONAL REQUIREMENTS Prior to any course of treatment that falls within the superficial cosmetic laser category, a patient/client must have a skin check evidenced by a doctorâ€™s letter. A doctor must also be involved in establishing the clinicâ€™s laser procedures and protocols. This is evidenced by the doctor signing the protocols or writing a letter to confirm his/her involvement in establishing the protocols. To demonstrate practical experience in accordance with the
above requirements, evidence of the minimum total practical hours must be provided (e.g. logbook of treatments). In addition, the supervising licensee must provide written advice that the trainee has undertaken practical training in both consultation and beam-on aspects of the specified treatments and is competent in each aspect. Licensees supervising practical training will be held responsible for ensuring that the competence of trainees is accurately reported to the Council. The Supervised training must be documented in a logbook and evidenced by the supervisor’s signature. A supervisor is someone who holds the relevant licence in the laser category in which they are teaching/supervising.
ACCESS TO SUPERVISED HOURS Although the new laser laws provide opportunity to nonmedical practitioners, the most frequently expressed concern is how to gain access to supervised laser hours. There are two primary ways applicants can access supervised hours, either through their workplace or through a training provider. If supervised hours are conducted in-clinic, the supervisor must first hold the relevant laser licence and sign off on each hour of supervised laser treatment. Supervised hours conducted in a formal training environment should ensure a complete package including underpinning theoretical knowledge, dermatology, infection control, patient assessment and consultation, laser safety, supervised laser hours and graduate support. The Council will also assess an applicant’s credentials on individual merits. For example, there may be recognition of a laser licence obtained through QLD Radiation Health, or evidence of laser hours in another state.
FURTHER INFORMATION There has been a certain degree of confusion surrounding the new laser laws in WA and the Council has been inundated with enquiries many of which are simply directed back to their website. The Australasian Academy of Cosmetic Dermal Science (AACDS) is working with the Council to ensure there is a mutual high-level understanding of the new laws. If questions cannot be answered by the Council, AACDS is happy to assist where possible. AACDS is a West Australian based Registered Training Organisation specialising in dermal science and cosmetic nursing. They are expanding their training scope to provide training packages to meet the Councils laser licensing criteria. Senior Trainer Lisa Edwards states, “These packages can be tailored to the individual with consideration to previous laser hours (if applicable), formal qualifications and past learning. Our aim is to create a more level playing field so clinics who don’t have a doctor on board can also gain access to laser hours and obtain a licence exemption.” APJ Further information can be obtained at: Australasian Academy of Cosmetic Dermal Science (AACDS) aacds.edu.au firstname.lastname@example.org 08 9328 6760 Radiological Council of Western Australia radiologicalcouncil.wa.gov.au email@example.com 08 9388 4999
HYPERTHYROIDISM & related EYE DISEASE and the challenges with COSMETIC TATTOOING By Tarnya Makarenko & Katherine McCann AWARD WINNING cosmetic tattooists Tarnya Makarenko and Katherine McCann are renowned for their amazing techniques and highly detailed work, which is as natural and close to perfection as you can get. These artists are not only highely skilled practitioners, but also beautiful individuals with a passion for quality education and love sharing their experiences and knowledge with others, while continually striving to add value and give back to the industry and others around them. In this article they discuss the impact of hyperthyroidism on eye health and the challenges that need to be considered when performing eyebrow or eyeliner cosmetic tattooing. Alarmingly, more and more clients are presenting themselves with thyroid conditions. In this article we discuss the manifestations of an overactive thyroid known as hyperthyroidism, or Graves’ disease and look at how to address the challenges when performing eyebrow or eyeliner tattooing. As we know, one of the major visual factors and side effects in this condition is the loss of eyebrow hair, however, there is much more to consider when presented with a client who has this condition.
because the autoimmune attack often targets the eye muscles and connective tissue within the eye socket. This likely occurs because these tissues contain proteins that appear similar to the immune system as those of the thyroid gland. Ocular symptoms can range from mild to severe; but only 10-20% of patients have sight-threatening disease.
THYROID GLANDS RELATING TO THE EYE Although Graves' disease and Graves' eye disease both stem from the immune system’s attack on healthy tissue, one disease does not directly cause the other. That’s why treatment of the thyroid gland, while important, does not improve the eye disease. The two diseases run their separate courses and do not necessarily occur at the same time.
SIGNS AND SYMPTOMS OF GRAVES’ EYE DISEASE In Graves’ eye disease the tissue around the eye is attacked, and the result is inflammation and swelling, causing: •
Redness and pain
Puffiness around the eyes
WHAT IS GRAVES’ EYE DISEASE?
Bulging of the eyes
Graves' eye disease, also known as thyroid eye disease, is an autoimmune condition in which immune cells attack the thyroid gland, which responds by secreting an excess amount of thyroid hormone. As a result, the thyroid gland enlarges and excess hormones increase metabolism.
Dry eye and irritation occurring when the eyelids cannot close completely over bulging eyes
Increased pressure inside the eye socket
Pressure-pain or deep headache, which worsens with eye movements
Decreased vision, when swollen tissues push on the optic nerve
The hypermetabolic state is characterised by fast pulse heartbeat, palpitations, profuse sweating, high blood pressure, irritability, fatigue, weight loss, heat intolerance, loss of hair and alterations in hair quality. When the immune system attacks the tissues around the eyes, it causes the eye muscles, or fat to expand – thus presenting in many cases as a bulging eye, although the degree of this varies considerably. The eyes are particularly vulnerable in Graves' eye disease,
CAUSES When the immune system attacks the muscles and other ocular tissues in the eye socket, the swelling and scarring
resulting from the inflammation causes symptoms and signs noted above. In severe cases, the clear covering of the eye (cornea) may ulcerate, or the optic nerve may be damaged, either of which may result in a permanent loss of vision if not treated appropriately. The former is often due to a combination of the eyes bulging forward and scarring resulting in the eyelids retracting backward. The latter is due to thickened, inflamed and/or scarred muscles impinging on the optic nerve at the back of the socket. When the optic nerve is compromised, progressive and irreversible vision loss occurs. Occasionally, but rarely, orbital swelling may precipitate glaucoma that also affects the optic nerve.
RISK FACTORS As already stated, Graves' disease and Graves' eye disease both stem from the immune system’s attack on healthy tissue, one disease does not directly cause the other. That’s why treatment of the thyroid gland, while important, does not improve the eye disease. Women are five to six times more likely than men to get the disease. Cigarette smokers are at significantly increased risk to develop the disease, and when they do, often have more severe and prolonged activity that threatens vision.
EYELINE AND EYEBROW PROCEDURES First and foremost, it is imperative that any client who presents with Graves’ eye disease obtains a medical clearance from their doctor prior to undertaking any eyeliner or eyebrow tattooing procedure. As the quest for beauty continues to build momentum, it’s become a well-known fact that eyebrows frame the face and a beautiful eyeliner or lash line aesthetically enhances the appearance and symmetry of one’s eyes and face. Consequently, this is causing women to draw more attention to different cosmetic tattooing procedures, which if performed incorrectly and particularly on people with Graves, can lead to serious infection, keratitis and exacerbation for dry eye disease. Therefore, as trained professionals, it is not only essential that we undertake a thorough consultation beforehand, but are able to recognise the signs and symptoms of Graves’ eye disease. This enables you to clearly inform and advise clients that any cosmetic tattooing may have lasting effects to the health of their ocular surface and weigh up their suitability as a candidate for the procedure, especially if the eye area is already compromised. It is also important that we provide honest education and support for clients, especially when they struggle with ocular surface issues, and make sure that we take on tasks that fall within our individual skillsets, to ensure we can meet our client’s expectations in their pursuit to enhance facial features. While this can be potentially challenging, particularly for ageing women, or those who’s culture places such a high value on youth and timeless beauty, remember its critical you never perform any kind of cosmetic tattoo on any client when you’re not 100% comfortable working on, or that you feel raise red flags during your initial consultations. You are the professional and you are well within your right to decline a job based on your skillset, or gut instinct. However, be sure you remain sensitive and professional in any kind of refusal should this be necessary.
WHEN SHOULD YOU CONTRA-INDICATE A TREATMENT? If pain or sensitivity is present, the tattooing procedure should not be performed. As the immunity of the eye is already compromised. Tattooing and excessively wiping this delicate area may be extremely uncomfortable and the risk of a corneal abrasion is also heightened due to the eyes’ inability to naturally lubricate itself. Additionally, if the client is reluctant to obtain a medical clearance, stand firm on this despite any assurances they may try and give you, in order to get you to do the procedure.
WHAT IMPACT WILL HYPERTHYRIODISM, OR GRAVES’ EYE DISEASE HAVE ON THE HEALING PROCESS OF COSMETIC TATTOOING AND WHAT ABOUT COLOUR CHANGES? The general health of any client can have an impact on healing and overall healed results. An example is if they are on certain medications, or if vitamin and mineral levels are low, poor colour retention may result. However, as with many clients whose immunity is compromised, or they are deficient, there is no set answer to how pigment colour can change and this is due to the fact that everyone’s skin and bodies respond differently. It is pertinent to note though, that there are many factors for consideration when it comes to colour change of a cosmetic tattoo procedure – including the client’s skin tone/ undertones, skin type and how well they adhere to their aftercare. Other general factors are the technician’s choice of pigment colour, needle selection, as well as technique used. Additional factors include, but are not limited to; the client’s overall health, medications, sun exposure and in the case of Grave’s eye disease and hyperthyroidism, how compromised their immunity is overall and where they are at in any kind of treatment. These conditions may affect their level of sensitivity and their healing capacity may be much slower than normal and consequently, the time it takes for the colour to settle in the skin may also be affected. Often, a good general guide to recognising when a tattoo has fully healed is by looking at skin transparency. For example, if the tattoo looks opaque or ‘milky’ then it is most likely still going through the healing process – this is a very simple guide and easy for you to explain to the client should you be able to
look into the skin and note the level of transparency. As a normal client (non-compromised) goes through the healing process, a fine layer of skin basically forms as a seal over the initial tattoo, and as it develops, the skin rejuvenates itself over the next 4-6 weeks post-procedure. As the pigment settles, the skin thins and transparency returns once healed. A client with Grave’s eye disease may very well take a good 8-10 weeks to heal, and in some instances even longer – but its always good to just provide them with a ‘guide’ rather than a ‘set’ timeframe. Another analogy that is also very helpful for clients in their understanding of what to expect during the healing process and colour post-procedure. This is related to one of the most commonly queried concerns raised by clients during the healing process and that relates to initial colour loss or patchiness, so its essential that the client has a full understanding of what to expect. Likening the healing and colour process to getting sunburned, even though not exactly the same, can be really helpful, as most people have experienced some degree of sunburn and can relate the skin changes. For example, when you experience sun burn, the skin turns red, then goes brown before peeling. If they peeled the skin prematurely, this will often see a difference in the colour of the new skin. Over the next few weeks, the skin colour slowly evens out before returning to normal as it heals and rejuvenates. This is very similar to the colour changes they will experience as the cosmetic tattoo heals as well.
ARE THERE ANY SPECIAL AFTERCARE CONSIDERATIONS? Most likely not, however if the client has had surgery, dry eye, glaucoma or any other medical issue with their eyes, they may require drops, or an eye lubricant, which may affect the tattoo retention. However as above, any intervention would require full medical clearance from the client’s medical practitioner prior to undertaking any cosmetic procedure and if they are unable to cease drops or medications, they need to be informed of how this may impact retention or overall colour. Additionally, as part of the procedure, clients should be provided with clear aftercare instructions and advised to follow these as per their technician’s advice.
Katherine McCann is an accredited cosmetic tattooist and qualified beauty professional based on the Gold Coast. She is a tertiary postgraduate with a strong background in Human Resource Management, training and strategic business development and has taught at both vocational and University level. Holding an advisory role within the Aesthetic Practitioners Advisory Network (APAN), Katherine is an active industry contributor and passionate about regulations and standards. She is the Journalist for the Association of Cosmetic Tattoo Australia and has a keen interest in micropigmentation and trauma resolution. www.gcparamedical.com
AESTHETICS AND COSMETIC TATTOOING Often as we age, so too does our skin and facial structures, with these changes often resulting in marked differences in symmetry. Add this to the complexity of a client who presents with significant hair loss from hyperthyroidism or bulging eyes as a result of Grave’s eye disease and you are required to rebalance and cosmetically restore their facial features to the best of your ability. Often less is best in these cases and the aim is to ‘improve’ appearance not draw unwanted attention to the area. For example, when it comes to a building eye, a fine lash enhancement eyeliner would be best as this provides depth in the lash line or further definition to the bottom lash line for additional balance. However, when done finely, it would not draw major attention to the amount of distortion between the eyes. Another alternative could be a smoky liner using a shading needle, or even choosing to use a softer colour such as charcoal or a black brown (rather than a straight black which would heal and look quite harsh). Adaptation of these options will assist with eye symmetry, but would obviously APJ 94
Healed Smokey Eyeliner by Katherine - LEFT| Advantages of a creating a smokey eye liner means there are no hard lines and the liner then blends seamlessly into the skin, Using different depths of shading, this will often help to disguise any imperfections or symmetry issues and leave the client with a soft natural looking liner or lash enhancement.
Healed Powder Brow by Katherine - RIGHT | Creating a super soft powdery eyebrow gives brows a natural fullness without looking too ‘made up’ and my aim is to ensure no hard brow lines through the use of soft shading and contouring, create a seamless and non-detectable tattooed brow. Soft powdery edges are also very forgiving from an aesthetic perspective especially when used to correct asymmetries. This client also has a healed smokey ‘lash enhancement’ which is slightly smaller than an eyeliner.
be dependent on each individual. In most cases a wedged, or winged liner wouldn’t work as it would draw attention instead of providing an aesthetically-pleasing end result. When cosmetically tattooing the eyes, other important considerations are a pH balanced anaesthetic, observation of vascular activity in the lids, as well as texture of the skin, lubrication of the eyes and overall sensitivity pre and postprocedure. Much of the same applies to tattooing the eyebrow area as it’s important to ensure symmetry is achieved. Making sure your client is sitting up in order to draw their initial brow shape is imperative, because facial features can be very different when they are lying down, as opposed to sitting up. This also allows you to add a bit of your own creative flare seeing that in many cases ‘measuring’ may not necessarily provide the ‘perfect brow’ due to orbital, or facial distortion they are experiencing. Techniques used for tattooing brows can also vary greatly, depending on the client’s skin and overall expectation of their desired end result – all of this again, should be clearly established as part of your initial in-depth consultation and be sure to keep your paperwork up to date.
Tarnya Makarenko is a qualified cosmetic tattooist based in NSW and the owner of Timeless Cosmetic Tattooing. She is renowned for her incredible artistry and passion for her work and has been a recipient of industry awards for her work and achievements. Tarnya is regularly invited to train other qualified practitioners in her advanced procedures. She is a professional member of the Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network (APAN) and a board member of Association of Cosmetic Tattoo Australian. Tarnya also provides her services through other salons and clinics. www.timelesscosmetictattooing.com
CONCLUSION Ensure your clients have a clear understanding of what they will experience and expect throughout the whole process even after they leave your clinic. This will determine your success as a technician, as well as your ability to match what you tell your client you can achieve. It’s important to reach “a meeting of the minds” and the desired end result that both you and your client are happy with. Don’t forget your media consent and your before and after photos as these are your track record and form the basis of your brilliance. APJ
Hairstroke Brows by Tarnya | Through the creation of ultra realistic hairstrokes, a clients thinning brows can be restored using this technique. Extra depth can also be added by shading in between strokes and creating a 3D effect. These pictures show the full progress of a client from their initial appointment, right through to the healed result and follow up.
CANNABIS AND HEMP OIL Are they found in SKINCARE? By Terry Everitt PARTS OF THE PERSONAL CARE INDUSTRY is always on the prowl for the latest thing and keen to be on the latest trend immediately, so, what of cannabis in skincare? Is this another marketing-driven situation or is there science that makes it possible for the skin to have a big relax due to applied cannabis? In his usual manner, Terry Everitt looks at the science of cosmetic chemistry to determine what is real and what is marketing hype. While there certainly is a marketing slant to the cannabis in skincare, the science shows that cannabidiol, (not cannabis) holds great promise. Cannabis (marijuana) has long been used for recreational purposes (I am not referring to most of you, about other people!) and even longer perhaps in the healing arts. It must be made clear that for skincare, cannabis (as you may know it) is not used. In fact, there is nothing illegal about cannabidiol in skincare use as we are not using any of the psycho-active properties of the cannabis resin.
The Cannabis sativa and Cannabis indica plants are two common species used; C. sativa has comparatively higher delta-9-tetrahydrocannabinol (THC) concentration (the stuff recreational users want) while C. indica has comparatively higher cannabidiol concentration (this is the stuff we want in skincare). The cannabis plant is called an annual, dioecious, and anemophilous (yep, even I went to the dictionary for that) flowering plant that belongs to the Cannabaceae family and is native to Central and South Asia. The plant has over 400 compounds isolated, including more than 60 cannabinoids. Cannabinoids are classified into three subtypes: •
Endocannabinoids, which is actually naturally present in the human body
Phytocannabinoids (present in cannabis plant) and
Synthetic cannabinoids (produced chemically).
There has been a multitude of studies undertaken on cannabis components affecting the skin – both the dermatological and nondermatological literature has many examples. Sadly, the differences in methodological issues such as an inadequate description of allocation, concealment and blinding inaccuracies, varying cannabinoid formulations
and doses, small sample sizes and other variables make it difficult to generalise on the outcome effectiveness. Many generalisations have been made, however, complimentary and substantiating studies are few.
THE NEED TO BE SPECIFIC
As an example of the multitude complexities involved, it is not enough to talk about cannabis, phytocannabinoids, or cannabinoids (as there are a few such as cannabidiol (CBD) or cannabichromene (CBC)). Since Tubaro et al. (2010) showed that it was the terpenoid moiety of phytocannabinoids was more important than those in the alkyl residue, with the highest potency consistently associated to compounds having a tricyclic skeleton, we need to get closer to the actual molecule differences. Maybe I should have given you the short story - just saying that ‘phytocannabinoid is studied’ does not mean much, as it is the shape of the many molecules that make the difference. It is this basic fact that has been ignored and has confused so many.
We have two types of cannabinoids receptors, which are G-protein-receptors, CB1 and CB2, (the CB is short for cannabinoid) and they can be found all over your body — including the skin, with different cannabinoids binding to these receptors with varying degrees of strength. CB1 expresses in the central nervous system, and tissues and cells of the immune system, with CB2, expressed almost everywhere including neuronal tissue. It is interesting that cannabinoids have been shown to attach to other receptors such as TRPV-1, (Transient Receptor Potential cation channel subfamily V member 1), which is a ligand-gated, non-selective ion channel in Langerhans cells, endothelial and epithelial cells, epidermal and hair follicle keratinocytes as well as in smooth muscle cells. While still in the early stages of figuring out how specific cannabinoids interact with the skin, there is already a lot known. There is at least one cannabinoid in the cannabis plant that can be particularly effective: Cannabidiol (CBD), which is a non-psychoactive cannabinoid found in both cannabis and industrial hemp. CBD, legal when extracted from industrial hemp, and widely considered to be high in antioxidants and is known to ease dry skin, is the mainstream ingredient used in
skincare products so far. In Australia, recreational use of marijuana remains illegal across all federal, state, and territories. Victoria was the first state in Australia to introduce legislation to legalise medicinal cannabis in early 2017 and the other states and territories and then followed suit. So medical cannabis is legal and nonmedical is not. Medical cannabis is under the Therapeutic Goods Administration frameworks for the use of unlicensed medicines, including the Special Access and Authorised Prescriber schemes. That is not every doctor can prescribe this. In skincare, we are not using medical cannabis or any cannabis (as you might think of it) at all. It is a component of cannabinoid, cannabidiol that is of interest to skincare formulators.
Mounessa, Siegel, Dunnick, & Dellavalle (2017) in their study titled The role of cannabinoids in dermatology provide evidence of multiple studies with various cannabis constituents on dermatologic conditions including pruritus, inflammatory skin diseases, eczematous dermatoses and skin cancer. Some of the studies indicated in this paper are small and isolated, so further studies need to be undertaken to show proof of affect and effect. With some patients, a frequent side effect is an irritation from the cannabinoids used. Interestingly, the corresponding author of the above study, Robert Dellavalle, M.D., Ph.D., Professor of Dermatology at the University of Colorado, in Denver, is reported to the state “While it sounds trendy, the reality is that the hype is ahead of the research, right now, we don’t have the evidence to back up recommendations for using cannabinoid therapy” (Dermatology
2, N-arachidonoyl ethanolamide (anandamide or AEA) and 2-arachidonoyl glycerol (2-AG) function as endogenous lipid ligands of the cannabinoid receptors CB1 and CB2 expressed throughout the skin in keratinocytes, melanocytes, fibroblasts, sebocytes, and hair follicles (Kendall et al. 2015). Essentially, they are fatty acid neurotransmitters, released by the post synaptic membrane, with 2-AG being the most common. They are produced ‘on demand’ and metabolised immediately after their reaction, with the reaction causing multiple effects. Regarding skin, it seems that endocannabinoids could be involved in the differentiation of keratinocytes and have immunosuppressive properties and is considered a potential anti-inflammatory ingredient in skin care. When CB1 or CB2 are engaged, modification to functions of epidermal cells occur – whether through proliferation, differentiation or apoptosis – which are all important processes for the healthy physical defence of the skin. Endocannabinoids role in skin’s immunity is to constantly control the activity of the skin’s immune and inflammatory system as previously mentioned.
Pucci et al. (2012) found that a fully functional endocannabinoid system is present in human melanocytes, including anandamide (AEA), 2-arachidonoylglycerol, the respective target receptors (CB1, CB2, and TRPV1), and their metabolic enzymes. At higher concentrations of AEA induces normal human epidermal melanocyte apoptosis, via the p53 pathway. At lower concentrations, AEA and other CB1-binding endocannabinoids dose-dependently stimulate melanin synthesis and enhance tyrosinase gene expression and activity. This melanin synthesis was much faster than the usual enzymatic pathways (see figure B). The little triangles represent the faster pathway.
Times Staff, 2018, p. 56).
Studies are suggesting, however, that cannabinoids are helpful and promising in the realms of itch and inflammatory diseases of the skin like psoriasis and eczema.
ENDOGENOUS CANNABIS-LIKE SUBSTANCES
As mentioned, the body has its supply of cannabinoids called endocannabinoids (ECS) that are amides or esters of long chain polyunsaturated fatty acids, primarily phosphatidylcholine. The lipophilic nature of endocannabinoids allows them to activate enzymes in the cytosol and transmembrane compartments, where they can interact with lipoprotein structures as a lipid signalling system (Kupczyk, Reich, and Szepietowski, 2009).
More recently, Hwang et al. (2017) also found that cannabidiol increased both melanin content and tyrosinase activity, which suggest that cannabidiol could be a useful agent for treating hypopigmented skin disorders and goes on to prove how this happens. We know that melanin biosynthesis is mediated by several signalling pathways and is a very complicated process. To date, we try to stop the production of melanin at the beginning of melanogenesis at the tyrosine/tyrosinase junction as it gets all too difficult after that. Treating hyperpigmentation is easy compared to treating hypopigmentation, and this new pathway information tells how it may be possible to increase melanogenesis. Pucci et al. (2012)
Functions of the cutaneous endocannabinoid system (Bíró et al. 2009)
How this will affect skincare products is unclear due to the contradictory effects that concentration has, more research will solve this however, so expect to see endocannabinoidsbased products in suncare (to produce tan) and in different formulations to help reduce melanogenesis. The real product is a few years away. However, we will soon have effective products that will be able to stimulate melanin production – although you can see the possible down side of this, can’t you?
CONCLUSION From a literature review and what I have briefly mentioned above, it seems that the main physiological function of the cutaneous endocannabinoid system (ECS) is to constitutively control the proper and well-balanced proliferation, differentiation and survival, as well as immune competence and tolerance, of skin cells. There is no doubt we will soon see in Australia what is
For the biochemistry geeks only Hwang etal. (2017) found that the mRNA levels of microphthalmiaassociated transcription factor (MITF), tyrosinase, tyrosinase-related protein (TRP) 1, and TRP2 increased following cannabidiol treatment. Mechanistically, cannabidiol regulated melanogenesis by upregulating MITF through phosphorylation of p38 mitogen-activated protein kinase (MAPK) and p42/44 MAPK, independent of cyclic adenosine monophosphate (cAMP)-protein kinase A (PKA) signalling which indicates that cannabidiol-induced melanogenesis is cannabinoid CB1 receptor-dependent. It is interesting that L’Oreal in Paris had applied for a worldwide patent (US 9326927 B2) for Use of Cannabinoid Compounds for Stimulating Melanogenesis in May 2016 based on the use of anandamide and methanandamide, using a different pathway to that proposed by Hwang et al. (2017).
HEMP SEED OIL
Hemp has been used in skincare for a long time and many think it is actually cannabis. Hemp hails from Eastern Asia, and it can be traced back thousands of years to ancient India and China, used in medicine for several aliments. It is important to note that hemp and cannabis come from different parts of the cannabis sativa plant. Despite its association with cannabis, hemp is free of tetrahydrocannabinol (THC), which is the hallucinogenic associated with marijuana and the part that is illegal. The cannabinoids does not have any of the effects of cannabis yet does have a supply of phytocannabinoids (technically known as annabivarins) from the Cannabis sativa plant. The secret of hemp seed oil is it is very high in gammalinolenic acid, a great polyunsaturated fat; hemp seed oil is (almost) full of omega 3 and omega six fatty acids. It’s the real deal for the dry or inflamed skin. While the initial rush was short of spectacular, hemp seed oil seems to have had its day. It is still around yet the results were underwhelming.
available in other countries. Products with specific ingredients targeted to manipulation of the ECS (aiming to normalise skin cell growth, sebum production and inflammation to name a few indications). It will also be interesting to see how formulators respond to its challenges. Not only in the ingredient choice, but also in the transport mechanisms to get the cannabinoids to help the body’s endocannabinoids. APJ An interesting study just released and undertaken by the University of Sydney with 1748 participants taking cannabis for medical reasons. Results showed cannabis use for skin conditions was the least condition of this provided list for a response.
Pain (69.4%), Sleep (69.2%), Anxiety (57.5%), Headache (33.4%), Appetite/weight control (21.2%), Inflammation (31.0%), Aggression (24.7%), Nausea/vomiting (23.6%), Muscular spasms (22.6%), Drug withdrawal (9.4%), Respiratory symptoms (9.3%), Seizures (8.5%), Skin condition (8.3%) Terry Everitt remains a thought leader in the scientific side of aesthetics. Terry is lecturing with the Bachelor of Applied Health Science (Clinical Aesthetics) at the Australasian College of Health and Wellness, among his extensive writing and lecturing in the world of Clinical Aesthetics.
AESTHETICS INDUSTRY BULLETIN As we are approaching the end of the year when celebrations will hit their peak, we decided in this issue of APJ to dedicate several of our Aesthetics Bulletin features exclusively to the latest skincare and cosmetic trends. Check these out and review how you can take advantage of what consumers are looking for.
OVERALL TRENDS AT A GLACE
ARE NAIL SALONS A HEALTH HAZARD? THE PRICE of pedicures or manicures may be higher than we think according to a recent study in Australia, which identified that it’s not just salon employees who are experiencing adverse effects, it is also clients who are walking away with more than just beautiful nails. Associate Professor Anne Howard of the Australasian College of Dermatology stated that common ailments dermatologists treat as a result of professional nail services are bacterial infections around the nails, tinea, allergic contact dermatitis and cuticle damage. “The cuticle of the nail is protective of the delicate nail matrix and should not be damaged or destroyed,” she said. There are also some suggestions that the UV lamps used to harden gel nail polish may be harmful. The Australasian Journal of Dermatology recently published an article claiming there have been observational reports linking these lamps to the development of skin cancer on the hands, in Ireland. More research is needed to confirm the link, but the article recommends, everyone should apply sunscreen if they are required to use these lamps to set the nail gel. Another study also confirmed that eye, nose, throat and skin problems, with no less than half reported using protective gloves and masks during the procedure. The study led by Lindsey Milich suggests avoiding drinking from an open container during these procedures, as some of the particles from the nail fillings can end up in your cup, and also making sure footbaths are cleaned and asking if you can bring your own supplies. APJ
Meghan Markle’s freckles are the latest tattoo trend.
FAKE FRECKLES ARE THE NEW MAKEUP AND COSMETIC TATTOO TREND THERE is something bittersweet about a physical trait that you’ve been made fun of for your whole life, when suddenly it becomes the latest fashion. If you have had freckles you are now trending, since Meghan Markle become famous as the Duchess of Sussex. Makeup artists are now being asked to add them as a fashion statement, particularly with young girls. “Freckles instantly make the complexion look fresh, as if you have no foundation”, says Creative Artistry Sarah Lucero. "It's a beauty trick I use more often than you may think. If your foundation or powder looks cakey, pop a few freckles on top. It will fool everyone into thinking you just have gorgeous, perfect skin, and that you're not wearing much makeup." And it’s not just makeup artists, American tattoo artist Gabrielle Rainbow has also reported that she has been “crazy busy” since the Royal Wedding after being inundated with faux-freckle requests. That’s the power of a media-driven trend. APJ
This section presents the latest news, training dates and other Aesthetic Industry information
customised approach to skincare choice and treatment plan. While most within the aesthetics industry are already delivering this, it is still common practice to sell pre-determined treatment packages sometimes without even seeing the client. This practice needs a re-think and it will no longer meet with consumer expectation. Retail companies are now finding ways to customise skincare formulations promoting bespoke skincare.
BESPOKE BEAUTY: THE TAILORED APPROACH TO BEAUTY ON THE RISE Bespoke has become an exhausted term in the clothing industry, and it loses its meaning each and every time it is referred to a made-to-measure (MTM) suit, this is because suit companies use it incorrectly. In actual fact bespoke rivals the term, "haute couture."
Customisation hits haircare And it’s not just for the skin, the trend of bespoke beauty is also branching into the haircare market as well. British brand Concoction soon to be launching in Australia are offering a range of haircare products that can be individually adapted with specially formulated “super serum” shots containing vitamins and active ingredients for every hair type and requirement. Dry ends and oily roots? Mix up your own solution on their website to combat both woes and watch it work magic. Lux BC offers clients a bespoke treatment to take home after their colour appointment, by infusing the actual shade pigments from their individual colour to prevent colour fading, and thus maximise the shine and condition of the colour between salon visits. What are you doing to promote how you can provide the bespoke customised approach to client care? APJ
The difference between bespoke and made-to-measure is that MTM is based on an existing pattern that is just slightly modified to suit the individual needs. However, with bespoke, a totally new pattern is created for each individual wearer – no modification, or use of a base pattern as this could lead the tailor to miss some of the small nuances of the wearer’s body. Now the bespoke concept has moved to the skincare industry. With more and more skincare options available to consumers the hunger for something that is designed specifically for them is the new emerging trend. There is a growing number of consumers who are shunning the “one-size-fits-all” and opting for personalised skincare with better results. I recent article in a Vogue Magazine featured interviews with various experts who confirmed the benefit of bespoke skincare. “Just like fingerprints, every skin is different, with its own set of unique needs that change over the various stages of our life,” said Dermaviduals’ scientist Dr Hands Lautenschlager. “Often what people believe their skin needs is quite different to what the cells of the skin actually require to function efficiently,” he added. Others stated that while in the past, skin was categorised into three types: dry, oily or combination, this blanket approach is considered incapable of treating the unique needs of the individual. Today, we have a more comprehensive understanding of not just the skin structure, but also the tools to identify underlying causes to skin conditions and disorders. With this understanding the term bespoke as far as skincare is concerns, is all about a more detailed personalised and
INNOVATIVE MASK TECHNIQUES IS THE NEW PRODUCT TREND Another new trend that is taking the younger generation by storm is facial masks. Skincare manufacturers are taking note of new statistics that state that 45% of the US skincare shoppers are aged 18-24. They agree that facial masks provide an interesting and quirky opportunity to take a selfie. Global intelligence company, Mintel, revealed that the face and neck care segment generated the largest number of new product launches (20%) which was aimed for teens aged 13-17 of any beauty and personal care sector.
AESTHETICS INDUSTRY BULLETIN Innovative techniques are providing amazing skin pickme-ups with unique Liposomal Masks, Charcoal masks, Collagen Sheet Masks, Peptide Masks, Cell Young Plant Stem Cells and unique vitamin-enriched nurturing masks promising a wonderful experience and quick results for a brighter, more hydrated and refreshed skin. Masks are a quick, fun way to improve the skin and teens’ growing demand for natural, organic stories leading to dry masks dominating the burgeoning global facial mask skincare segment. There is no doubt that this trend is influencing shoppers, so perhaps it’s time to include innovative masks on your retail shelves – the perfect gift that is now highly in demand. Check out our Product Innovations section page 35 for some hot options. APJ
were interested in environmentally-friendly ingredients, not just for the benefit of their skin, but also important for what goes into the drain. Organic ingredients was important consideration, as well as the functionality. They wanted lighttextured products that smell nice and are multi-functional. This group was also keen to research on-line, but wanted to feel what they were buying first. Millennials: Ages between 22 - 37 years of age: This group was after a lot more detail. They wanted something light and easy to apply. A high SPF that also included a moisturiser so it was an all-inclusive purpose-built product. This group researches on-line, but still likes to come into the store to try before buying. Packaging was also important, they wanted something modern and attractive. They also wanted an SPF that included a good moisturiser as well as a bit of a shimmer. Going by these findings all the categories are looking for a quality product with good functionality, but the younger the age group the more they want organic, environmental sustainability as well as the sensorial experience. All categories conducted on-line research, but still wanted to trial before they buy. APJ
SUN-PROTECTION TRENDS FOR THE VARIOUS AGE-GROUPS Global Cosmetic News recently interviewed several people with a view to capture the shopping habits of individuals from the various age-groups and their use of sun protection. The snapshot interviews revealed some interesting facts. Baby Boomers: Ages between 54 – 72years of age: Baby Boomers indicated that they love to wear sun protection not just on the face, but also on their bodies. They identified a trust for well-established brands and stated that they were happy to go with the recommendation of expert companies on the of the integrity of the ingredients in their suncare products. “I leave the ingredients up to them to decide what is best for me” one baby boomer stated. When it comes to packaging that was not high on their list of priorities. Their approach was down to earth, practical with functionality as the key priority. They research online, but they prefer to trial before they buy. XGen: Ages between 42 - 53 years of age: Considered sun-protection very important. Loved quality brands,
SHIMMER & GLITTER FOR CHEEKS, EYES, AND LIPS As the party times increase don’t shy away from stocking "Glitter and shimmer” as it’s not going away this summer. Several brands are formulating shimmer as a liquid eyeshadow that can also be used on the cheeks and lips. The liquid version boasts long-lasting and so easy to use. Rose gold is also featuring strong this summer. L’Oreal Paris offers a great, affordable line of Infallible Paints metallics for eyes and lips that are too easy to sell. Speak to your makeup supplier and see if you can also stock these sure sellers. APJ
This section presents the latest news, training dates and other Aesthetic Industry information
BOLD CONTRASTS Rounded-edge cat-eye flicks, bright colours, and “underliner” are making a strong statement in 2018 as a way to play up eyes while leaving everything else subtle.
Maintaining healthy, glowing skin is also a huge trend this year, with research confirming that glowing skin is one of the key trends with Australian women. This has also given rise to the soft, natural look with minimal makeup and with either a strong eyeliner, or a naked face with a strong red accent on the lips. Red lips are forecast to feature strongly this summer in many different shades. APJ
Cleansing is the most essential part of any skincare routine and now new-generation cleansing oils have risen recently as the most effective way to get clear, glowing, and hydrated skin. New formulations ensure that they are effective in removing impurities and excessive sebum, but still preserve the skin’s hydration. Experts also confirm that many of these oil cleansers are water-soluble and they will not clog pores and the data doesn’t lie either. Reports confirm that the sales of oil cleansers are currently a new trend for consumers, while foaming and cream cleansers are still effective, consumers are gravitating to oils cleansers as a new experience. APJ
FACIAL ROLLERS Facial rollers come in a few different forms with varying goals, but one thing is certain: people are obsessed with rolling these little tools all over their faces also at home in the name of beauty. Derma-rolling, or micro-needling is reported as one of the most popular practice as consumers are seeking ways to improve product penetration and collagen stimulation. Companies that are promoting the home use of dermal rollers are promising they will not only improve product effectiveness, but also help fade wrinkles and signs of ageing, as well as improve skin texture, minimise acne scars and dark spots.
MONOCHROMATIC EYESHADOW As the natural look, showcasing a glowing healthy complexion is all the vogue this year, accenting the eyes with natural monochromatic shades in flesh colours is the new trend. While we don’t see any love going away for versatile eyeshadow palettes, we are also seeing the single-colour eyeshadow looks that make a statement without using a different colour – one that looks like an extension of lip tones.
Dermal rollers for home use are reported to be one of the hottest items and Pinterest confirmed that dermal-roller sales have increased this year by 345%. APJ
AESTHETICS INDUSTRY BULLETIN
The Skincare Makeup: Decoded jane iredale Event August marked the 15-year anniversary of the partnership between jane iredale and Margifox Distributors, which is a great milestone and one that was celebrated in style at each event with gorgeous balloon displays and branded cupcakes!
“The perfect nude lipstick depends on the colour of your client’s natural lips,” Natalie explained, guiding therapists through the complete range of 15 shades — meaning there really is a colour to suit every complexion.
The event celebrated the launch of jane iredale’s Triple Luxe Long Lasting Naturally Moist Lipsticks, following a nation-wide training tour in August led by Jane’s personal makeup artist and Global Educator, Natalie Soto, exclusively for stockists of jane iredale Australia.
Natalie also introduced audiences to the updated Foundation Brush, part of a new vegan makeup brush collection, designed to mimic the shape of a fingertip to allow you to blend your foundation into the skin for a natural finish. “A perfect shape for the under-eye area,” said Natalie. Another tip for clients who are as passionate about skincare as they are about colour cosmetics? “Consider the Liquid Minerals as a tinted treatment serum, rather than a foundation, as it contains a time-releasing formula with Coenzyme Q10 and Aloe Vera.”
Direct from New York, the Australian leg of the Global Educator’s tour saw Natalie introduce jane iredale makeup artists, therapists and business owners to the Triple Luxe Lipstick collection, which will be released in October.
Years in the making, jane iredale’s Triple Luxe Lipsticks have been formulated to truly last on the lips. Natalie’s tip for a professional quality application time after time? Apply your lip pencil after your lipstick. This gives you the freedom to tidy up the lip line, rather than needing to work within a strict guide.
A must-have for the new season, Natalie told attendees, is the Lemongrass Love Hydration Spray. “Lemongrass kills both bacteria and microbes,” Natalie explained, “so you’re able to protect the skin from the factors that cause acne while you add moisture and staying power to your makeup.” APJ MargiFox Distributors 1300 850 008 margifox.com.au
This section presents the latest news, training dates and other Aesthetic Industry information
RIVAL BUSINESS ORDERED TO PAY $750,000 IN COMPENSATION FOR CLIENT DATABASE THEFT An interesting case of database theft in the real estate industry is setting a precedent for other industries, such as the hair and beauty industry to follow.
least 13 client records in Toop’s customer database by downgrading recorded interest levels of those clients from “hot” or “warm” to “cold”. Hooper agreed she had printed data of more than 240 clients in Toop’s customer database with the intention of using the data to benefit Harris Real Estate and had solicited work from 15 people who had done business with Toop.
Harris Real Estate and one of its agents have agreed to pay Toop Real Estate $750,000 after the prominent Adelaide Hills agent used confidential files in breach of her contract and lured clients to Harris.
Hooper also accepted that she had enticed another employee of Toop to resign from the agency and take up employment with Harris Real Estate.
Former Toop employee Arabella Hooper accepted she breached her contract by improperly using 230 of Toop’s confidential files and several hundred pages of client contact details when she left the agency in 2015.
Both Hooper and second defendant Harris Real Estate were today ordered by Auxiliary Judge Clayton to pay Toop Real Estate $750,000, which includes interest and costs, within 21 days.
The settlement, executed in the District Court last month says Hooper used the files to develop business with rival agency Harris Real Estate, where she is currently employed. Hooper ended her employment at Toop in June 2015 after disciplinary action was taken against her. At an earlier District Court hearing, Toop sales and marketing CEO Genevieve Toop alleged that Hooper had “cracked” during a meeting at the agency’s Norwood offices in May 2015 when she realised the disciplinary action would make her ineligible for the company’s annual awards. Hooper ended her seven year employment at Toop on June 29, 2015, and commenced employment with Harris Real Estate the following day. The settlement said Hooper executed seven sales agency agreements on behalf of Harris Real Estate, while still employed at Toop and altered at
Toop’s lawyers had argued Hooper’s actions resulted in close to $30 million in property sales, which would have earned the Toop business commissions of more than $237,000.
ESTABLISHING A PRECEDENT The significance of this case is that legally it is setting a legal precedent, or rule by which similar cases or circumstances in other industries, such as the beauty industry can be guided, making a strong case to take a similar course of action against database theft by employees, as well as luring staff to leave the business and follow them. Similar circumstances are not uncommon in our industry. Being a servicebased industry where employees have a personal relationship with clients, it is not uncommon when they choose to leave to also take copies of the database and move to another business, while attempting to lure the clients to the new business. APAN urges all business owners to ensure a clear policy on database ownership and what constitutes theft is spelt out in their staff HR Policy document and to get each staff member to sign off on this with a clear understanding of what the consequences will be if this agreement is violated. We have the appropriate documentation to protect businesses from such painful experiences. “We offer a comprehensive HR POLICY template that is helping protect businesses from this and other violations”, says Tina Viney. “This is a legal document and it’s imperative that all businesses small or large have it in place,” Tina urged. APJ If you don’t have a comprehensive HR Policies document in place your business is at risk. Please contact APAN for further assistance Ph: 07 5593 0360 or email firstname.lastname@example.org.
Top Five Natural Immunity Boosters By Dr Zac Turner
THE IMMUNE SYSTEM is one of many biological factors that contribute to a healthy individual. Without our immune system being on alert at all times one we wouldn’t be able to live our everyday lives and would quickly fall victim to all the bacteria that live around us. From that vast variety of surface bacteria that thrive on things like every door handle we touch, to the plethora of bacteria on every single thing we ingest, the immune system is constantly at work and keeping it up to par is vital. I will take you through five of the top natural immunity boosters currently available on the market today. From what they are, how they work, and where they can be easily incorporated into your life.
COLOSTRUM What is Colostrum? Colostrum itself is produced by all mammals in the first few days before giving birth. Just prior to birth the mammary glands of mothers begin to concentrate proteins, growth factors, and antibodies that are vital for the early development of newborns. Think of Colostrum as the jump-starting method for setting in place those healthy antimicrobial factors in the gut and in turn the body as a whole. A little fun fact about Colostrum is that the immunoglobulins contained in the mixture have specific immune activity against the most common human pathogens, and prior to the discovery of antibiotics it was used as a primary source to fight against infections. The most important contribution it has to immunity is its Proline-Rich Polypeptides (PRPs). PRPs are immune signaling peptides found in Colostrum. Through a process called cellmedicated immunity these PRPs make signals to turn up or turn down an immune response depending on the presence of pathogens. Lastly, Colostrum should not be taken year round as it can overwork the liver and kidneys. A cycled dose of 3-4 months of the year will provide adequate intake without affecting the body’s ability to process it. The best Colostrum supplements are derived from goat’s milk. APJ 106
TURMERIC AND GINGER Turmeric and ginger are both spices derived from plants and are most commonly used in Asian dishes and low and behold have proven to have some major contributions to creating a healthy individual. With claims in that they help reduce inflammations, digestive aliments, liver conditions and even pain relief. They serve as powerful antioxidants and contribute at large to the liver as they stop it from being damaged by toxins. Great news for those who take strong pharmaceuticals, or have problems with alcohol and unhealthy food intakes. An important note about the extracts is that they have the tendency to thin the blood so women who are pregnant should not take the supplements, however, eating them in foods periodically should not cause health problems. You can find these extracts over the counter at your local chemist.
CITRUS Citrus as a natural immune booster! More intellectually known as a primary source of Vitamin-C which strengthens immunity and keeps your skin elastic and smooth. Supplements can be found over the counter at your local chemist but the best way to obtain Vitamin C is through foods that grow in nature. Just one medium orange a day has your daily dose of Vitamin C covered! Grapefruit, lemon, lime, oranges and mandarins, all can contribute at large to boosting ones immune system. These citrus fruits also contain adequate amounts of other vitamins and minerals your body needs such as Vitamin-B, potassium, magnesium, and copper. Flavonoids, plant pigments, are also responsible for many of citrus’s health benefits. Some of these flavonoids act as antioxidants and may block expression of certain genes that are seen in a variety of cancers, and have been proven to help protect the brain from neurodegenerative diseases. Like all other substances an excess of citrus fruits or Vitamin-C
supplements can have negative side effects on the body. They can create an acidic environment when consumed in large amounts which can increase the chance of cavities. Lastly, do not mistake fruit juice as an adequate source of Vitamin-C. These juices are typically loaded with high amounts of sugar that will create a negative effect on immunity. Feel like drinking some orange juice? Do so in small amounts and never drink a full glass in one day thinking you can increase the dose for greater effect. A little side note on the effects of citrus fragrance on immune function and depression. States of depression wreak havoc on our immune system, causing the body to be stressed and therefore releasing stress hormones throughout the body. The primary steroid hormone is cortisol, and if it suppresses many bodily functions over a longer periods of time it will negatively affect ones immunity. Scientist have found that citrus, not only ingested, but just its fragrance can cause the body to become relaxed even under elevated levels of stress.
PROBIOTICS While the skin being a barrier keeping things out, the gut is the most active site of your immune system as it has to filter every little substance that you ingest. Keeping a healthy gut means keeping a healthy immunity. The gastrointestinal tract (GI) needs help to properly break down and digest foods to maximise its potential of ingestion. It does this by using probiotics. These can be found over the counter at your local chemist or from fermented foods such as hot sauces, kombucha, and plain yogurts (no sugar added). Adding these to your diet will help set in place obligate anaerobes into the gut where they will live and thrive thus contributing to increase your overall immunity.
REDUCE THE SUGAR Last but not least, reduce your sugar intake. People commonly mistaken that their body needs sugar to adequately function. While this may sound true it is very misleading. The body requires sugar as glucose to use as a reliable energy source. It has multiple biological processes that can create this carbon chain and does so by the foods you eat. So having a properly balanced diet will create the right environment to result in the body preforming as needed. Viruses, cancers, diseases, and other pathogens all thrive off the intake of sugar, so when you are sick or trying to keep from being sick, cut out foods with high amounts of sugar from your daily food consumption and your immunity will kick into gear as needed. It has a hard time combating illnesses when a large intake of sugars are being put through the body.
CONCLUSION The body’s immune system is at a constant battle against the entire world in which you move around in, so it’s important to give it its best fighting chance. From your tooth brush, door knobs, your car, and even your bed, your immune system never sleeps. Consuming a higher amount of these immunity boosters can be the extra encouragement your body needs to prevent fatigue and illness. Test your diet and try to consume different immunity boosters to see the effects they have on your own body. As always, everyone’s body reacts differently to consumption of different things, so it’s best to start with small changes and even consult your doctor if you’re concerned about your immune system. APJ
For a list of references, please contact the editor.
SUCCESSFUL FINANCIAL GROWTH STRATEGIES
For a more SECURE FUTURE By Javier Fonseca
THERE ARE USUALLY MULTIPLE reasons why people start their own business. It may be because they want to have the freedom to express themselves professionally without having to conform to the wishes of others, the opportunity to build something that they can be proud of, or even the joy of creating job opportunities for others and also support the economy. While all these are wonderful and altruistic reasons, ultimately the business needs to be able to help improve your financial position to create a more secure future and a successful retirement plan. Would you agree that in order to achieve this the business needs to have a wealth creation strategy in place?
They are totally focused on client/patient care, compliance, and keeping the lights on. Next minute they are getting hammered on tax, or find they are making no financial progress because they have not had time to plan for the long-term.
Everything they have is going into the business. They have little or no other assets or income streams. Then when it is time to sell, they don’t get what they want and all the value in the business was their hard work.
They don’t have time to get sick, so they don’t plan for it.
As most of us would know running a business has its challenges on so many levels, which often means that we can be so focused on survival that we tend to operate only with short-term goals – one day at a time, one month at a time, or one year at a time with no long-term plan of what we ultimately want to achieve with the business when we retire. However, without a long-term plan, you will plan to go nowhere.
WHY YOU NEED TO PAUSE AND REASSESS
In this article, financial planner and business strategist Javier Fonseca discusses some common mistakes that cost businesses money and the successful strategies for long-term financial growth. Owning and running your own business is no walk in the park. You work long hours, miss precious moments with family and friends, and the pressure is on you to make it a success. Not only are you an aesthetic professional, you must also be a leader, counsellor, strategist, recruitment officer, compliance officer, bookkeeper, and marketing guru; and those are just your business roles. You’re busy, and it is easy to be lured into the day-to-day operation of the business, while forgetting why you started it in the first place. In my experience this is a very common issue with many of our business professionals. Here are some of the shared challenges in common: •
There is no roadmap to retirement. They work 30+ years in their business to find themselves at retirement age with little to show for it.
Client care, compliance, generating new business, and paying the bills are all very important, but don’t forget why you decided to be a business owner in the first place. Getting a job would be less stressful, you could just walk out at the end of the day without a care in the world. When we ask our clients this question they usually take a minute to pause and think about it. Often, they tell us it is because they want to create something that will give them freedom and provide a better future for their family. They know that working to make someone else rich isn’t necessarily the best way to enjoy better quality of life, plan to travel more during retirement, or provide their kids the best possible education. It is important to start with the end in mind and to keep the end in mind every day. Do you know why you’re in business? Do you know what the end goal looks like? Do you have a plan on how to get there? Is what you are doing right now getting you closer? If you are not saying an emphatic yes to any of these questions, it is time to pause and reassess.
ARE YOU PAYING TOO MUCH TAX? The great Australian media mogul Kerry Packer, addressing a parliamentary committee said, “Of course I am minimising my tax. If anybody in this country doesn't minimise their tax, they need their heads read because, as a Government, I can tell you’re not spending it that well that we should be donating extra.” Are you working hard to donate extra money to the
government? Money that could be invested for your family’s future. If you are you would not be alone; many business owners don’t have a long-term plan. You’re a professional and business owner, you can’t be expected to be a tax genius as well. Your accountant may help complete your BAS and yearly tax return, but that is short-term thinking. What is the longterm strategy? Have you identified ways to legally minimise your tax and put that money to work for you and growing it into your yearly retirement plan or your kid’s education?
overnight and destroy families. The best, case scenarios see people return to work before they are fully recovered, often when they are in the midst of treatment for serious illness. However, this should be the time that should be spent allowing yourself to rest in order to return to full health and spending precious moments with loved ones. No-one wants to think about what can go wrong, but everyone should. If disaster strikes, those with a plan in place are left much better off than those without.
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How much of your wealth is tied up in your business? If you are anything like many of our clients - probably most of it. Perhaps you have a bit tied up in the family home too, but that just puts a roof over your head, it isn’t producing income, and it is not wise to think of it as an investment. It probably seems natural that your wealth is tied up where you are focusing your energy, but this robs you of the opportunity to put your money in other assets where it can work for you. It is said that Albert Einstein stated that compound interest is the eighth wonder of the world or, the greatest invention of all time. While the accuracy of those quotes is debateable, the power of compound interest is not. A properly invested portfolio of assets has the power to have a serious impact on your longterm goals. If everything is tied up in your business then you are missing an opportunity to diversify your risk and build a nest egg that will grow while you are sleeping.
Advice Hub specialises in working with business owners and professionals. Their experts help you articulate your vision for the future, develop a plan to make it happen, and hold your hand every step of the way. They are more than just financial planners, they provide you with personal financial coaches for life. Services include:
UNDERESTIMATING THE DOWNSIDE RISKS Ask a business owner when they get sick and they will tell you, “When I have time to.” Often it will end up happening when they take that 1-week holiday every five years. You’re too busy to be sick, how will the business survive without you? It’s a great question, one that deserves much more consideration. What will happen to your business if you are incapacitated tomorrow? What will happen to your income and how long will your family survive without your income? Think about it - seriously. Some of our saddest situations is when we need to advise hard working business owners facing adversity that they haven’t planned for. It can shutdown businesses
Help you develop a plan for your retirement so that you can achieve your dream lifestyle.
Help you to legally minimise tax putting that money to work as part of a long-term investment strategy
Start building a diversified pool of assets outside of your business to minimise your risk and build an income that increases while you sleep
Put together a risk-management strategy that will take care of financial concerns should something happen to you. We hope you never need it, but we know from experience how glad you will be to have it if it’s required.
Our introductory meeting is FREE. That’s fee free and obligation free. They will take the time to have a chat with you about the financial coaching process and talk about how they can help you. You have everything to gain. For further information phone Javier Fonseca at Advice Hub 0457 229 377
MAXIMISING ANTIBACTERIAL PROTECTION THROUGH ESSENTIAL OILS By Eva Boyd
WHILE ALL HIGH-QUALITY essential oils have a level of antibacterial activity there are certain ones that have a much higher fighting capacity. In a world that is prolific with infectious germs it pays to maximise your precaution with simple strategies, such as through the use of essential oils. In today’s world, travel is so affordable and in particular, air travel. It’s not just for holidays, but also for business purposes. Do you know what is the most germ-infected item you will find when flying to your required destination? If you think it is the toilet seat you are wrong – it is actually the folding table in front of your seat where you place your hands. This is possibly because these tables are infrequently disinfected, or cleansed. Yet, each time we travel we handle them whether we are consuming food or not. In this article I want us to look at four of the most potent antimicrobial essential oils that can offer us protection. If you can get the support you needed to fight bacteria from a natural source, why wouldn’t you?
CHEMICAL COMPOSITION OF ESSENTIAL OILS The therapeutic properties of essential oils are governed by their chemical constituents, so knowing and understanding their activities will allow you to appreciate their antimicrobial properties. This in itself is a chemistry lesson, which is too comprehensive to go into in this article. There are numerous studies that have investigated the activities of the various chemical constituents of essential oils and validated their efficacy. However, here is a brief chemistry lesson that will give you some idea of the complexity of this subject. Essential oils have the ability to hamper the growth of a diverse range of pathogens because of the presence of natural compounds produced by the various parts of the plants. Importantly, the unique aroma and other bioactive properties of an essential oil depend on its chemical constituents. Essential oils generally accumulate in the secretory canals or cavities and glandular trichomes and sometimes in the epidermal cells. Essential oils and their chemical constituents exhibit more bio-activity when present in the oxygenated or active form. In general, the chemical composition of essential oils is relatively complex, and about 20 to 60 different bioactive components are observed in many of these essential oils. Studies confirm that many of these compounds are pharmaceutically appreciated for their numerous culinary APJ 110
properties. Usually, the chemical characterisation of many essential oils reveals the presence of only 2-3 major components at a fairly high concentration (20–70%) compared to other components present in trace amounts. Most essential oils are composed of terpenes, terpenoids, and other aromatic and aliphatic constituents with low molecular weights. Terpenes, or terpenoids are synthesised within the cytoplasm of the cell through the mevalonic acid pathway. Terpenes are composed of isoprene units and are generally represented by the chemical formula (C5H8) n. Terpenes can be acyclic, monocyclic, bicyclic, or tricyclic. Owing to the diversity in their chemical structures, terpenes are classified into several groups such as monoterpenes (C10H16), sesquiterpenes (C15H24), diterpenes (C20H32), and triterpenes (C30H40). The major component (~90%) of bio-active essential oils is constituted of monoterpenes. Some of the major compounds include monoterpene hydrocarbons (p-cymene, limonene, α-pinene, and α-terpinene), oxygenated monoterpenes (camphor, carvacrol, eugenol, and thymol), diterpenes (cembrene C, kaurene, and camphorene), sesquiterpene hydrocarbons (β-caryophyllene, germacrene D, and humulene), oxygenated sesquiterpenes (spathulenol, caryophyllene oxide), monoterpene alcohols (geraniol, linalool, and nerol), sesquiterpene alcohol (patchoulol), aldehydes (citral, cuminal), acids (geranic acid, benzoic acid), ketones (acetophenone, benzophenone), lactones (bergapten), phenols (eugenol, thymol, carvacrol, and catechol), esters (bornyl acetate, ethyl acetate), and coumarins (fumarin, benzofuran).
THE TOP FOUR MOST PROTECTIVE ESSENTIAL OILS AGAINST INFECTION The four essential oils we are profiling have high percentages of phenols (eugenol, thymol and carvacrol) and while they possess strong antimicrobial properties, they can also be dermatoxic so they need to be diluted before coming in contact with the skin. Three of the strongest oils with a high percentage of carvacrol are oregano, thyme and cinnamon, however it is well-worth investing in them, so I will profile them here. The other oil that is incredible beneficial especially for protecting the respiratory tract and the lungs is Eucalyptus Radiata. Here is a brief description of each one of these:
OREGANO ESSENTIAL OIL It may smell like an Italian salad, but oregano is one of
the most potent antibacterial and antiviral essential oils on the planet. Studies have shown that oregano essential oil is effective against 20 different strains of E. coli and pseudomonas aeruginosa, the pathogen known to cause cystic fibrosis. Oregano oil has also been shown to reduce inflammation in the gut and to aid in digestion. You can dilute it with a cold press carrier oil for topical application. Interestingly, yet not surprisingly, bacterial resistance to standard antibiotics has become a big problem in the health industry. This has brought more attention to plants as possible alternatives to fight bad bacteria. Studies have shown that oregano oil and silver nanoparticles, also known as colloidal silver, have potent antibacterial activity against some drug-resistant bacterial strains. Results showed that both individual and combined treatments provided reduction in cell density, which gives way to antimicrobial activity through the disruption of cells. Overall, these results indicate that oregano essential oil can be an alternative in the control of infections.
CINNAMON ESSENTIAL OIL Cinnamon essential oil not only has a pleasant fragrance, studies also confirm that it is has activity against Grampositive bacteria (such as staphylococcus) and Gram-negative bacteria (such as E. coli) responsible for human infectious diseases, as well as bacteria that cause degradation of food or cosmetics. Cinnamon essential oil has also been proven effective for oral health. Studies published in the Journal of Contemporary Dental Practice were conducted on the effectiveness of cinnamon oil against “planktonic E. faecalis” in a root canal procedure. The results showed that the cinnamon essential oil eliminated bacterial growth after seven and 14 days of procedure, making it a compatible natural option. The study concluded that “Cinnamomum zeylanicum essential oil is an efficient antibacterial agent against planktonic and biofilm E. faecalis and thus can be a great antimicrobial agent in root canal treatment.
THYME ESSENTIAL OIL Thyme, like oregano is great as an antimicrobial. Studies were conducted at the University of Tennessee’s Department of Food Science and Technology to evaluate its effect against bacteria found in milk and salmonella. Like with the cinnamon essential oil, droplets of thyme essential oil with the GRAS recognition (generally recognised as safe) were placed on the bacteria.
The results, published in the International Journal of Food Microbiology, indicate that the “nano-emulsions” could be great options for protecting our bodies from bacteria by using thyme oil as an antimicrobial preservative for food. Thyme essential oil is also excellent for combating acne bacteria. Scientific studies confirm it to be even more effective than benzoyl peroxide.
EUCALYPTUS RADIATA Eucalyptus essential oil has wonderful multi-faceted medicinal properties and the good news is that Australian eucalyptus essential oil is considered to have one of the highest therapeutic constituents in the world. In particular, Eucalyptus Radiata is highly prized for its anti-infectious properties particularly for respiratory conditions. For this reason, it is found in products such as chest rubs and overthe-counter products for colds and respiratory congestion. Some of the amazing properties of Eucalyptus Radiata include: anti-inflammatory, antispasmodic, decongestant, disinfectant, antiseptic and antibacterial. When used as vapours, the combination of grapefruit seed extract and geranium oil were most effective as antibacterial agents, as was a combination of eucalyptus and tea tree oil. When flying, I always use a high-grade Eucalyptus Radiata oil. I apply just a few drops to my chest, and also dab it on my nose to protect my breathing and a couple of drops on my ear lobes, as this is another pathway in the body through which bacteria may choose to enter. You can also add a few drops to a tissue for quick access and to wipe your hands.
PRECAUTIONS WITH ANTIBACTERIAL ESSENTIAL OILS There are many antimicrobial, antibiotic and antibacterial essential oils that may be hugely beneficial to fighting existing infections, as well as preventing them in the first place. Regardless, essential oils are a highly concentrated extraction from plants and need to be used with proper education. Make sure to check with your doctor, and if you doctor does not have any knowledge, find a holistic or functional medicine doctor in your area. It is also important to access your essential oils from a reputable supplier to ensure quality and purity. APJ
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company as a leading expert in your industry, offering useful blog posts, tutorials and guides, you’ll also be able to solve the problems of your target audience. The comment section of your blog posts is also a great place to develop your relationships with consumers. Even if they leave a short comment thanking you for your advice, this gives you an opportunity to talk to them directly and create a more personal relationship. By reading your blog posts over time, your audience will easily become more familiar with your brand and quickly grow to trust your valuable insights.
2. Be available for inquiries through live chat
NEW RATE FOR CAR EXPENSES The Taxation Office has released information on changes to the rate for work-related car expenses indicating that it has increased for the income year starting 1 July 2018. It is now 68 cents per kilometre. This applies if you have chosen to use the cents per kilometre method for calculating work-related car expenses and will remain in place until the Commissioner decides it should be varied. If you are paying your employees a car allowance in excess of 68 cents per kilometre, you need to withhold tax on the amount you pay over 68 cents. Please discuss this also with your tax agent. Please also note that the Taxation Officer has released a new Tax Withholding Calculation tool to assist businesses. Your can access this tool from their website https://www.ato.gov. au/Calculators-and-tools/Tax-withheldcalculator/?sbn APJ
Think about it: if you had a pressing question for a business and it took days for them to respond with a vague answer, you likely wouldn't be satisfied. Most consumers today want a quick, almost immediate response and prefer being able to contact customer support through live chat rather than phone or email. Being available for inquiries 24/7 through live chat on your website will not only enhance your client service, but also skyrocket the trust a consumer has in you. Consumers want to be able to make an informed decision before reaching for their wallets. So, when a user has a question or concern and they know they’ll get a response from you right away, they won’t hesitate to reach out to you for further services.
3. Share client success stories Customer success stories show social proof, and this proof is key to building trust with consumers. When a consumer is unsure about something, they look to social
TIPS FOR INCREASING CUSTOMER TRUST With increase competition perfecting your skills to engage clients to trust you over others is something worth investing in. A recent study that investigated how consumers ranked what influences them to “trust in a brand” revealed valuable information. Here are the top five reasons that they consider as key when determining if they can trust a business:
1. Provide valuable content One of the most effective ways to build trust with your clients and prospective clients is by providing them with valuable educational content. Not only will you present your
proof to see how others feel. In fact, 90 per cent of buyers who read positive customer success content claimed
that it influenced their purchasing decision. Be sure to put your clients’ success stories in the spotlight; this way, consumers will feel more comfortable in reaching out to you for your products and services.
4. Showcase a great return policy When it comes to product purchases consumers love when you have a great return policy as this shows that you care about them and you are confident in your product; both are amazing qualities that consumers stated they find trustworthy. For example, if you offer customers a no-questions asked, free return within the first 30 days, consumers will know you aren’t trying to pull one over on them. Even if they aren’t happy with the purchase they made from you, they’ll be happy with the great customer service you provide and will be more willing to purchase from you again in the future.
5. Let your audience see your human side This is a new one that has come through in the past few years. To help consumers get over their scepticism and give them a reason to trust you, you have to let them see your human side. Don’t focus too much on trying to sell them your product or impress them by boasting how good you are. Instead, tell them why you do what you do and why it’s so important to you. Let them know the struggles you went through and how you got where you are today. When consumers get to know the real you, they’ll see you more as a trustworthy person who cares and not just another money-hungry company. Building trust is not only important for your reputation, but also your bottom line. With these simple tips to help your business earn clients’ trust, you’ll be able to turn sceptics into lifelong fans of your business. APJ
PREVENTING EMPLOYEE THEFT IN THE WORKPLACE Preventing employee theft in the workplace should be a top priority for businesses. According to research, 75 per cent of employees have stolen from their employers. The same study
found that employee theft accounts for 42.7% of shrinkage while shoplifting only accounts for 35.6%. This is especially crucial for small businesses because they are more likely to be the victims of internal theft (64%). However, only 16% of small businesses report incidents. The problem that businesses face in trying to prevent employee theft in the workplace is that the stealing takes many forms including: •
Outright theft (larceny)
Diverting business funds (‘skimming’)
Tampering with expense reports (fraud)
Misuse of customer lists and other secrets (theft of intellectual property)
Why Employees Steal Before we get into the tips for preventing employee theft in the workplace, it’s useful to try to understand the possible motivation of someone who steals from your business. Here are three reasons why a person can engage in theft: •
Strife at home: unexpected bills, addictions
Opportunity: Weak financial controls, cash management processes
Rationalisation: Employee has internal excuses, such as “the business won’t notice”, “I deserve a raise”, or “other people do it”.
How Employees Commit Theft in the Workplace Most employees have the chance to steal from their workplace because they have access to restricted areas. As a result, the ways that they steal can vary depending on what opportunity presents itself. Here are some ways that employee theft can take place in your workplace: •
Time theft – Employees can get their friends to punch in and out for them to get paid for hours that they haven’t worked. Stealing time can also be done while at work. This is especially the case with employees who have access to a smartphone. Using phones or even work computers to message friends or check social media can account for a large chunk of time theft. This is perhaps not a surprise since people now spend more time on social media than they do eating, drinking and socialising. • Cash and stock theft – Employees can steal cash by failing to enter the correct transactions through the cash register. For example, they can charge the customer extra, if the price isn’t displayed and the item isn’t scannable. The employee then keeps the excess. Theft of workplace stock can be done using personal bags, garbage bags or, in the case of retail, employees might APJ 113
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wear the clothes before leaving the store. Employees can also enlist the help of a friend who returns stolen goods in return for cash.
Vendor theft – Where employees have access to set-up and manage vendor accounts, they can abuse this position by setting-up fraudulent vendor accounts. They will then issue checks to the fake vendor and redirect the funds to themselves. In the case of large workplaces, employees could even set up a fake account for a staff member who has left.
easy to lose your motivation and become undisciplined with time and with tasks that you need to perform to remain professional. Addressing this issue, Mary Eggelton - a sole practitioner from NSW, said “I makes sure that each day I set my goals and work to a plan to achieve specific tasks and tick them off at the end of the day. This may sound simple, but it is important that I keep checks on my own performance. I use to do that with my staff, I now do it to myself.” •
Stay up-to-date: Both large and small businesses are required to provide value for money. This means that on-going learning and staying current in their knowledge should become a way of life. “As a business owner working on my own, I am no longer relying on others and their skills, I therefore need to ensure my clients that I remain up-todate in my knowledge and skills and that I can be trusted to provide them with a quality and up-to-date services and treatment outcomes,” said Jane Rogers from Victoria. “I am able to achieve that by undertaking short courses, committing time to read industry journals and attend conference program that will allow me to stay current in my knowledge. I always display my certificate in my workroom and regularly share some of the knowledge I have gained with my clients, which they have come to appreciate.”
Seek professional help: One of the key feelings that sole practitioners experience is the feeling of isolation. This can be overwhelming at times and other times it can contribute to feeling inadequate. Sally Johnson from Western Australia had this to say, “I believe that a sole practitioner should never lose sight of the fact that she has a duty of care to stay well informed and professional in the way she runs her business. One of the most valuable ways I have been able to do this is to connect to an industry body such as APAN and reach out to them whenever I need advice or guidance from an expert. It has been so valuable to me to be able to access expert advice and not just an opinion. As the need may arise, a quick phone call is all it takes to gain peace of mind – it really isn’t worth stressing or wresting alone, when quality support is available.” APJ
Tips to Prevent Employee Theft Now that we’ve outlined why and how workers steal from your business, here are six practical tips on preventing employee theft in the workplace:
1. Make the employee feel valued – look at ways of rewarding good performance. Studies indicate that those who feel appreciated are less likely to engage in theft 2. Pre-screen applicants - Prevention is better than cure. Make sure you check out your applicant’s history thoroughly before employing them. 3. Put your workplace under surveillance by installing cameras 4. Arrange employee schedules responsibly – make sure your employees are not overworked as this can lead to misconduct 5. Carry out impromptu audits – Carry out random workplace checks. Management software should ensure that there are at least two employees working at any given time and signing off on daily financial balance sheet. 6. Spell out the punishment – make it clear in your HR Policy document that theft will not be tolerated and may lead in instant dismissal. Theft in the workplace is a real risk so every business should have appropriate P and Ps in place to deter it. APJ
GOING IT ALONE In our industry business often start small as sole practitioners, or choose to downsize to a home-based business when times get tough. However, while there are risks association with large businesses, there are also risks for those who decide to go it alone. We interviewed several business owners to share their tips to others who also chose to go it alone: •
Set a plan and stick to it: The number one challenge that sole practitioners indicated was that it is so
specific areas of business support for their members – Merchant banking facilities, Business banking On-line options and Market Lending. One of the new trends that was noted for salons and clinics is how businesses are now turning to leasing and lending for their advanced equipment acquisition and even IT equipment – computers and client booking systems – instead of outright purchasing them, as was the common practice in the past.
BETTER CASHFLOW MANAGEMENT One of the areas that we are seeing salons and clinics changing in recent years is in their purchasing habits. APAN’s latest strategic alliance partners that was established this year is St George Bank with whom they have formalised three
This shift is allowing businesses to be in a better financial position to invest in leading technologies, while freeing their cashflow for further investments. The limitations in the past for this option was due to the high interest rates, however, the new APAN/St George corporate leasing and lending rates are now highly affordable helping businesses move forward with greater financial ease to access their equipment. If you would like more information please contact APAN on 07 55930360 or email email@example.com APJ
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1300 766 198 | firstname.lastname@example.org
EXPLORING THE BENEFITS OF ARNICA By Tina Viney I WOULD THINK THAT most of you would be aware of the beautiful little daisy-like plant known as Arnica – perhaps one of the most commonly used herbs in modern times and medicinally used as a homeopathic formulation for numerous skin and health conditions. The fact that it is used as an active ingredient in medicines is itself an indication of the various arnica benefits. In fact, we often come across shampoos, gels, tonics and tinctures bearing the name of arnica. Arnica is a very useful ingredient in aesthetics and cosmetic surgery so let’s take a close look at this amazing little plant and its capabilities.
BACKGROUND INFORMATION Arnica is basically a perennial herb belonging to the sunflower (Asteraceae) family. It is native to the mountains of Europe and Siberia. The plant grows to a height of 1 to 2 feet and bears yellow-orange flowers resembling daisies. It possesses bright green leaves with the upper leaves toothed and slightly hairy, while the lower leaves have rounded tips. The stalks are round, fleshy, and hairy. The yellow-orange flowers of this herb have medicinal value. Today, arnica is extensively cultivated for medicinal purposes in several areas of Europe and North America. It has been used in medicine since the 1500s and is commercially available in the form of topical creams, ointments, pills, tinctures and even injections. Arnica oil is also available, which is used for topical treatments. Direct intake of arnica by mouth is associated with serious side effects, but homeopathic medicines use it in a diluted form, which is not considered harmful. There are several species of arnica of which Arnica Montana and A. Chamissonis are used in anti-inflammatory preparations. Both species look similar except that A. Chamissonis has somewhat smaller flowers. It can be extremely toxic even in very low doses.
Arnica Montana, on the other hand, possesses medicinal properties and is mostly used in herbal products. This herb is known by several names such as Mountain Tobacco, Mountain Daisy and even Leopard’s bane and Wolf’s bane.
ARNICA BENEFITS FOR THE SKIN Arnica is used extensively for various skin conditions as its anti-inflammatory properties can help calm and soothe various conditions from pain to bruising. Eczema Studies confirm that arnica can be applied topically to calm skin conditions such as eczema, itchiness and even open wounds. It can even be applied on the vagina to treat vaginitis and vaginal irritation. Frost bite and chilblains Arnica extracts are used in ointments for treating frost bites. Often, frost bites do not appear as open wounds. Application of arnica ointment on frost bitten areas of the body can significantly improve the condition. This herb can also be used in the treatment of chilblains. Skin nourishment Arnica Montana flowers contain sesquiterpene lactones, flavonoids, carbonic acid, coumarins and volatile oils, all of which are beneficial for the skin. A sesquiterpene lactone, called helenalin, is the main restorative compound in Arnica Montana, which along with flavonoids, helps soothe and renew the skin after exposure to stress. The antibacterial, antiseptic and anti-inflammatory properties of this herb help in preventing inflammatory skin disorders. They also accelerate the healing process by stimulating the formation of granular tissues. Arnica for skin care can effectively heal bruises, sunburns, minor burns and superficial phlebitis. Treatment of stretch marks Topically rubbing arnica extracts reduces the appearance of pregnancy-related stretch marks. All you need to do is gently
apply arnica gel on the stomach at least three to four times a day. Healing qualities Arnica has been used in topical preparations for healing bruises, muscle aches, superficial phlebitis, wounds and swelling due to insect bites and fractures. It can be used as a mouthwash or gargle for treating sore throat and infections. Arnica also can asist in the regeneration of tissues and can heal injuries. It is also effective in healing burns. It improves blood circulation by stimulating white blood cell activity, decreasing the amount of healing time and reducing inflammation. Treatment of post-surgery pain A study conducted in 2007 observed that taking a homeopathic dilution of arnica resulted in a decrease in pain in patients whose tonsils were removed. Similarly, taking a homeopathic dilution of arnica and applied topically as an ointment can reduce post-surgery pain in patients undergoing surgery. Treatment of bruises and black eyes/post-surgery swelling Arnica is effective in reducing the appearance of bruises. It is therefore used post-operatively after blepharoplasty to help sooth the swelling and bruising. Topical application of arnica extract on bruises and black eyes can significantly improve the condition. Infusions from arnica plant are effective in the treatment of dark nails, caused due to injury. A study conducted in 2006 proved that intake of homeopathic dilution of arnica may reduce post-operative swelling in patients undergoing arthroscopy.
TREATMENT FOR STRESS AND DEPRESSION Not just for the skin, in addition to its medicinal uses, arnica is beneficial in alleviating feelings of depression and emotional distress. It is often used in healing sachets to restore emotional balance and a sense of tranquillity. Organic and wild-grafted arnica flower extract can be massaged to provide warmth which unwinds taxed and tight muscles and alleviates stress.
and uses in shampoos to provide soft and manageable hair. Arnica also cleanses the excess oil and sebum from the scalp, giving it a natural shine. By removing dirt, debris, and oil from the scalp, it also helps combat dandruff and itchiness. This also helps in preventing tangled and rough hair.
HEALTH BENEFITS OF ARNICA As stated earlier, arnica is used in the treatment of a wide range of internal and external disorders. In Australia arnica is TGA listed as it does contain several active ingredients and volatile oils. Proper dosage of arnica will definitely provide the following health benefits: Treatment of arthritis The anti-inflammatory properties of arnica are praiseworthy. It has been used in topical preparations for healing joint pains, muscle aches and swelling associated with arthritis. A research conducted in 2002 indicated that the use of arnica gel twice daily for six weeks resulted in a significant decrease in pain and stiffness in patients with mild to moderate osteoarthritis of the knees. In the case of osteoarthritis of the hand, arnica gel has proven to be as effective as ibuprofen in lessening pain and improving hand function. The essence of arnica plant is used in the treatment of rheumatoid arthritis. Being an anti-inflammatory agent, it can be used to massage inflamed or painful joints for relief. Treatment of muscle soreness The anti-inflammatory properties of this herb make it useful for the treatment of muscle soreness. It can be applied topically to reduce pain and inflammation caused by muscle sprain and strains. Thus, it is beneficial for athletes who often suffer from muscle soreness.
Arnica has been used in homeopathy for the treatment of an accident or shock as well as illness of the circulatory system. It is also used in the treatment of conditions like a backache, fibromyalgia, influenza, headaches, migraines and haemorrhoids.
While it offers so many benefits arnica should be avoided during pregnancy and breast feeding as it is considered unsafe. There are also some people who are sensitive to the Compositae or Asteraceae family plants, which includes chrysanthemums, ragweed, marigolds, daisies and related plants, who might also be allergic to arnica. People who are hypersensitive to such plants should consult their doctor before using arnica in any form. Arnica may interact with a number of corticosteroids, anaesthetics, and antiinflammatory drugs. It can also cause bleeding when taken with anticoagulants. Specific constituents present in arnica might lower serum lipids in the body. Those taking drugs for lowering cholesterol should take arnica with a caution.
NUTRITIONAL VALUE OF ARNICA
Arnica owes its anti-inflammatory properties to a host of active components comprising of antioxidants, tannins, flavonoids, carotenoids and volatile oils like thymol, an active ingredient contained in thyme.
This amazing little flower has so many uses. Understanding the benefits of arnica will allow you to take advantage of the many ways that it can offer relief. Indeed, a very useful item to have in your medicine cabinet. APJ
HAIR BENEFITS The anti-inflammatory properties of arnica make it useful in hair care as well. Arnica extracts are often used in conditioners and shampoos. Some of its benefits for hair are as follows: Usage of arnica extract rejuvenates the scalp and stimulates the hair follicles, helping to strengthen the hair and preventing it from falling prematurely. Arnica is often combined with other ingredients like calendula and jaborandi APJ 117
Research and Scientific New Developments
In each issue of the journal, Terry Everitt conveys a few items of scientific interest. In italics are his thoughts on the subject matter of the research study.
skins pH. It was the initial work by Heinrich Schade and Alfred Marchionini (1928) who decided that an acidic based cream was the best and recommended the systematic investigation of acid treatments in dermatology. The term “acid mantle” has become part of colloquial speech. We know now that the pH of the skin is a very changeable fact and important is the H+ concentration that is always shifting. The use of “pH balanced” moisturisers have been a mainstay for many years. This paper concludes “The currently prevailing formulation concepts for direct acidification are based on a reduced pH of the hydrophilic product phase in combination with a buffer with a sufficiently high buffering capacity within the vehicle”. The myth comes up when you consider that moisturisers (and other lipid-based products) cannot have a pH so how can they be pH balanced.
40% REDUCTION IN MELANOMA WITH SUNSCAREEN USE A study led by Associate Professor Anne Cust, University of Sydney, analysed data collected from nearly 1700 people has found that Australians aged 18-40 years who were regular users of sunscreen in childhood, reduced their risk of developing melanoma by 40 percent, compared to those who rarely used sunscreen in their earlier years. Melanoma is the most common cancer diagnosed in Australian men aged 25-49 years and second most common cancer in women aged 25-49 years after breast cancer. Approximately two in three Australians will be diagnosed with melanoma or other types of skin cancer by the time they are 70 years old. We know the association of sun exposure and sunburn with melanoma risk, particularly in childhood, is well established and this study showed that regularly using sunscreen was protective against the harmful effects of sun exposure. The study reconfirmed existing knowledge that those less likely to use sunscreen if they were male, older, less educated, or had skin that was darker or more resistant to sunburn. Watts, C. Drummond, M. Goumas, C. Schmid, H. Armstrong, B. Aitken, J. Jenkins, M. Giles, G. Hopper, J. Mann, G. Cust. A. (2018). Sunscreen Use and Melanoma Risk Among Young Australian Adults. JAMA Dermatology, Published prior to print. DOI: 10.1001/jamadermatol.2018.1774 APJ
THE ACID MANTLE: A MYTH, OR AN ESSENTIAL PART OF SKIN HEALTH? A paper published August 20th, 2018, with above title has caused a little contention. It was in 1928 that the term “Acid mantle” came into being. This paper explores the changes since then in the knowledge of the
The pH is the negative logarithm of the hydrogen ion activity (often approximated as the concentration) in aqueous solution and of course the skin surface is certainlys is not aqueous. You could measure the pH of skin however it is difficult as not much water is within the corneum. The general view of the pH of the skin is that if a drop of water is placed on the skin and the pH of that drop is measured then it will be around 4-5. This is thought to emanate from the presence of the free fatty acids present in the skin lipids. This is hardly standardised, and, in any case does it mean anything? In a product, the pH can only be measured in the aqueous phase of a semisolid preparation. This is what has been done and taken to be the pH of the product, which obviously it is not. As I have always said - “pH balanced to what?” As fatty acids have a higher pka in the presence of other lipids they are not ionised at the so-called pH of the skin in vivo, however amino acids and other filaggrin-derived materials will lower the pH of a drop of water placed on the skin, yet their role are plasticisers, binding to keratin because there is very little water to keep the SC supple. So, getting a pH reading of the skin is difficult to begin with and is an indicator of water content of the skin can only be a surrogate scientifically questionable but clinically relevant.
Surber, C. Humbert, P. Abels, C., & Maibach, H. (eds.)(2018). The Acid Mantle: A Myth or an Essential Part of Skin Health? Current Problems
population of specialised mechanosensory nociceptors.
in Dermatology, 54:1-10. doi: 10.1159/000489512. Epub 2018 Aug 20.
A new population of specialised mechanosensory nociceptors found wrapped around the base of individual hair follicles and respond to hair pull. The discovery of these neurons lays the foundation for exploring their function in chronic pain.
With a combination of in vivo calcium imaging, electrophysiology and optogenetics, this study found that what was previously assumed, that nociceptors make free nerve endings in the skin and don’t innervate specialised structures, is not totally correct. This identifies a new class of cutaneous sensory neurons with an anatomy commonly associated with touch neurons, but with response properties resembling A-delta pain-sensing neurons.
GOT DNA – YOU CAN WORK OUT A PIGMENT PROFILE FOR FREE An international team from Erasmus MC University Medical Center Rotterdam and Indiana University-Purdue University Indianapolis School of Science has developed a novel tool to accurately predict eye, hair and skin colour from human biological material - even a small DNA sample. This all-in-one pigmentation profile tool provides a physical description of the person in a way that has not previously been possible by generating all three pigment traits together. That is amazing, yet even more so, this innovative high-probability and high-accuracy complete pigmentation profile, called HIrisPlex-S System, it is totally free and available on the web. While the site is primarily for Forensic and Anthropological usage, all you need is a piece of DNA, put in the specifications and the webtool will provide a pigmentation profile. The tool is available at https://hirisplex.erasmusmc.nl/ Since the site launched in April 2018, there has been an amazing uptake as when I checked (27 August 2018), 104,117,888 phenotypes had been predicted.
The investigators began by turning to calcium imaging with GCaMP6f. This protein, which can be genetically expressed in mice, glows green when it encounters calcium. When a neuron fires an action potential, calcium rushes into the cytosol, where GCaMP6f is waiting. As GCaMP6f binds calcium, the entire cell flashes green, indicating neuronal activation. The study was conducted on mice and remains unclear how mouse hairs and free nerve endings relate to human hairs. It does however advance knowledge of somatosensorial nerve impulses; the sensory process that allows us to feel the outside world, whether a cool breeze, a painful bee sting, or the warmth of a fire. Accordingly, a vast range of potential stimuli must be encoded. Given the sheer number of stimuli, researchers have struggled to identify and categorise all the different types of sensory neurons. Nociceptors, for example, have been categorised by how quickly they conduct their signals, which is determined by the diameter of the fibres and whether they are myelinated or unmyelinated. They’re also categorised according to the neurochemical markers they contain. However, these classifications have been imperfect and do not always accurately reflect their physiology. If this is true of humans, it could go a long way in explaining allodynia, that doesn’t occur in the glabrous (hairless) skin – could it be that chronic unexplained pain can simply be the movement of hair in the skin?
Lakshmi Chaitanya, Krystal Breslin, Sofia Zuñiga, Laura Wirken, Ewelina Pośpiech, Magdalena Kukla-Bartoszek, Titia Sijen, Peter de Knijff, Fan Liu, Wojciech Branicki, Manfred Kayser, Susan Walsh. (2018). The HIrisPlex-S system for eye, hair and skin colour prediction from DNA: Introduction and forensic developmental validation. Forensic Science International: Genetics, 35: 123. DOI: 10.1016/j. fsigen.2018.04.004 APJ
HAIR HAS ITS OWN NERVE SUPPLY (AT LEAST IN MICE) Much research has occurred with and on neurons that transmit the sensation of mechanical pain. Now, researchers add one more piece to the puzzle, by discovering a new APJ 119
Research and Scientific New Developments
Ghitani N, Barik A, Szczot M, Thompson JH, Li C, Le Pichon CE, Krashes MJ, Chesler AT. (2017). Specialized Mechanosensory Nociceptors Mediating Rapid Responses to Hair Pull. Neuron, 95(4):944-954.e4. APJ
WHAT IS A NATURALLY-OCCURING CHEMICAL? SNAPCHAT DYSMORPHIA Snapchat dysmorphia is a real thing leading to body dysmorphic disorder according to a report in the August 2018 Facial Plastic Surgery Journal. With the spread of photo-editing technology through applications like Snapchat and Facetune, the level of physical "perfection" is now all-over social media, which can take a toll on a person's self-esteem and can trigger body dysmorphic disorder (BDD). The disorder affects around 2 per cent of the population and is classified on the obsessive-compulsive spectrum. The authors research has shown 55 per cent of plastic surgeons’ report seeing patients who want to improve their appearance in selfies and using self-edited pictures of themselves as evidence of what they can look like with the surgeons help. “A new phenomenon called 'Snapchat dysmorphia' has popped up," said Neelam Vashi, MD, at Boston University School of Medicine, "where patients are seeking out surgery to help them appear like the filtered versions of themselves." Not surprisingly the authors state that surgery is not the best course of action in these cases, because it will not improve, and may worsen underlying BDD. Those of us in the cosmetic side of medicine are very aware of the ‘cosmetic junkie’ and their constant striving for perfection. Sadly, now we have younger females who have lost touch with reality, believing their filtered images is how they should look all the time. Susruthi Rajanala, Mayra B. C. Maymone, Neelam A. Vashi. (2018). Selfies—Living in the Era of Filtered Photographs. JAMA Facial Plastic Surgery, (Published online ahead of print, 2 August 2018); DOI: 10.1001/jamafacial.2018.0486
It does not matter how you define it – in Australia it is the National Industrial Chemicals Notification and Assessment Scheme (NICNAS) that makes that definitive decision. And they have recently updated (21 August 2018) their version of what is naturally occurring and what is not. Quoting from the update: Many products with ingredients (chemicals) derived from natural sources such as plants and minerals that are marketed as 'natural', 'organic' or 'pure' do NOT meet the legal definition of a naturally-occurring chemical. This is usually because of the process used to extract the chemical from its source. If a chemical in a product does not meet the naturallyoccurring chemical definition, it is a relevant industrial chemical. To clarify, NICNAS makes two clear distinctions as to ‘a natural occurring chemical’: •
an unprocessed chemical occurring in a natural environment
a chemical occurring in a natural environment that is extracted using a process that does not cause a chemical change in the substance.
These definitions of a naturally-occurring chemical is in section 5 of the Industrial Chemicals (Notification and Assessment) Act 1989. Most chemicals derived from nature need to be processed before introducers and suppliers can use them in a product. So, you need to consider the process involved in deriving or extracting it and whether there has been a chemical composition change during the extraction (NICNAS 2018). Perhaps you think essential oils are natural, however if steam distillation is used then the end ingredient is not considered naturally- occurring. Plant extracts are natural are they not? Except that if extracted with a solvent other than water, it is not natural occurring.
This really does narrow the types of substances that can be termed ‘natural’. It is not the chemical, it is the processing of said chemical that makes a big difference. Water is the only solvent that can be used to extract a chemical from a plant-based source.
therapy is an effective adjunct to picosecond lasers and a perfluorodecalin (PFD) patch treatment for removal. Three treatment sessions at six to eight-week intervals with a 1,064 nm picosecond Nd: YAG laser.
NICNAS (2018). What is a naturally-occurring chemical? Australian Department of Health. Retrieved 27 August 2018 from https://www.nicnas.gov.au/chemical-information/Topics-of-interest2/ subjects/what-is-a-naturally-occurring-chemical APJ
At each treatment session, received two passes with the laser (4 mm spot size, 2.8 to 3.2 J/cm2 and laser repetition rate of 2 Hz). Between laser passes and following the final laser pass, the medial portion of the tattoo was treated with acoustic shock wave therapy (ASWT) using the Zwave device (Zimmer Medizin Systems) with settings of 90 mJ, 22 Hz, and 1,200 pulses. After three treatment sessions, there was 80 per cent clearance of the medial portion of the tattoo that received the ASWT compared with 60 percent clearance of the lateral portion treated with picosecond laser and PFD patch alone. In addition, the area treated with ASWT had less oedema, erythema and epidermal crusting in the days following treatment.
ACCELERATED TATTOO REMOVAL WITH ACOUSITC SHOCK WAVE THERAPLY IN CONJUNCTION WITH A PICOSECOND LASER A split-tattoo study of a 28-year-old female with Fitzpatrick Skin Type V and a six-year-old professional black tattoo on the left ventral wrist revealed that acoustic shock wave
While a case study paper, the results appear great. The PFD patch is a perfluorodecalin-infused silicone gel patch that helps reduce laser frost caused by laser-induced microbubbles, allowing for multiple laser passes in a single treatment session. Ultimately, the PFD patch’s purpose is to enable faster tattoo fading that is safe and decrease the number of overall treatments needed to achieve complete ink removal. The PFD patch is also used to reduce optical scattering that can occur because of microbubbles on the skin. Such patches are not used much in Australia due to the cost. Vangipuram, R. Hamill, S. Friedman, P. (2018). Accelerated tattoo removal with acoustic shock wave therapy in conjunction with a picosecond laser. Lasers in Surgery and Medicine. doi: 10.1002/ lsm.22945. [Epub ahead of print] APJ
BEING FULLY COMPLIANT For a list of references, please contact the editor. HAS NEVER BEEN EASIER! Do you have peace-of-mind that you are fully compliant when it comes to the Health Regulations, Skin Penetration requirements in your State, Privacy Act requirements or Fairwork legislative requirements for managing your staff? •
Do you have a legal Human Resource Policies and Procedures Manual and have you given every staff member a copy to which they are required to comply?
Do you have a comprehensive Code of Ethics?
explains how you collect and store your clients’ personal data? •
Do you have a Cancelation Policy?
Do you have a Refund Policy?
Are you complying with the regulatory Advertising Guidelines?
Do you have a copy of the Health Regulations for your State?
APAN, together with their solicitors, have developed over 40 legal and compliance documents and templates to help your business meet with all these requirements and run stressfree.
At a small cost you can purchased the documents and templates that you need and have peace-of-mind that your business is meeting with all your legal and regulatory requirements. No monthly fees – just select and own whatever it is that you need. Phone APAN 07 5593 0360 and speak with a consultant who can help you identify your needs. We are here to help you.
Research and Scientific New Developments
CHEMICAL PEELS CAN BE SAFE TREATMENT OPTION FOR PEOPLE WITH DARKER SKIN Results from a new study from Boston Medical Center (BMC) indicate that when performed appropriately, chemical peels can be a safe treatment option for people with darker skin, although having darker skin is a risk factor for complications during a chemical peel. Chemical peels have shown efficacy in the treatment of acne, photo-ageing, and pigmentary dyschromia, however, studies evaluating side effects, particularly in patients with skin of colour, are limited. Researchers followed 132 patients with darker skin who received a total of 473 chemical peels to determine how prevalent side effects were. The same dermatologist that performed all the chemical peels stated that the peel was applied all at once, rather than in sections on the skin. Eighteen participants experienced side effects, the most common being crusting, dark spots, and reddening. The side effects lasted an average of 4.5 weeks. Less than four per cent of people with darker skin experienced unwanted side effects from a chemical peel. The study also found that side effects were least likely to occur in the winter, which could be attributed to the limited sun exposure participants experience during that time. People with the darkest skin tones were most likely to experience side effects and complications. This study does not provide real information for those who are used to preforming chemical peels on darker skin, although it does give some guidance to those who do not feel confident in this area. While I have delivered peels on individuals of Fitzpatrick IV and above, you do need to take care in progressing the peel procedures and of course, have training in such high-risk skins. The study does add to the growing literature of advancing the treatment options for skins of deeper colour. APJ Vemula, S. Maymone, M. Secmsky, E. Widjaiiahakim, R. Ratzelt, N. Saade, D. Assessing the Safety of Superficial Chemical Peels in Darker Skin: A Retrospective Study. Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology. Published online (March 05, 2018) ahead of print. Retrieved March 7, 2018 http://www.jaad.org/article/S01909622(18)30350-5/pdf
ROLE OF MAGNESIUM IN VITAMIN D ACTIVATION AND FUNCTION Uwitonze & Razzaque (2018) have released their study, which states that taking Vitamin D without Magnesium is hindering the adsorption of the Vitamin D. Magnesium and vitamin D are two essential nutrients that are necessary for the physiologic functions of various organs. Magnesium assists in the activation of vitamin D, which helps regulate calcium and phosphate homeostasis to influence the growth and maintenance of bones. All the enzymes that metabolise vitamin D seem to require magnesium, which acts as a cofactor in the enzymatic reactions in the liver and kidneys. Deficiency in either of these nutrients is reported to be associated with various disorders, such as skeletal deformities, cardiovascular diseases, and metabolic syndrome. It is therefore essential to ensure that the recommended amount of magnesium is consumed to obtain the optimal benefits of vitamin D. Patients with optimum magnesium levels require less Vitamin D supplementation to achieve sufficient vitamin D levels. Magnesium also reduces osteoporosis, helping to mitigate the risk of bone fracture that can be attributed to low levels of vitamin D. While the recommended daily allowance for magnesium is 420 mg for males and 320 mg for females, the standard diet contains only about 50 per cent of that amount. Magnesium is an essential cofactor for vitamin D synthesis, and activated vitamin D, in turn, can increase intestinal absorption of magnesium and, therefore, can form a feed-forward loop to maintain its homeostasis. Vitamin D is mostly synthesised from 7-dehydrocholesterol upon skin exposure to sunlight (>80%) and may also be obtained from dietary sources or supplements as either vitamin D2 or D3. In Australia the sun protection message is so strong, there is a concern that we are not getting this D synthesis from ultra violet light, so supplements are required. I would rather take a supplemental vitamin D than risk the damage of sunlight. I must remember to have magnesium as well. APJ Uwitonze, A. Razzaque, M. (2018). Role of Magnesium in Vitamin D Activation and Function. The Journal of the American Osteopathic Association. 118, 181-189. doi:10.7556/jaoa.2018.037
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APAN AESTHETICS CONFERENCE 2019 â€˜Exciting New Conference Formatâ€™ These two events will feature double the speakers with a new focus on best practice and leading treatment outcomes. We believe this format will allow delegates to gain double the value from the conference, which will still remain as a one-day event. ARAP and CTARP practitioners, each of these events will gain six CPD points for attending the full program.
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fi APJ 124
Aesthetics Practitioners Journal Volume 38 Spring 2018 - The official publication of the Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network (APAN)
Published on Oct 23, 2018
Aesthetics Practitioners Journal Volume 38 Spring 2018 - The official publication of the Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network (APAN)