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Aesthetics Practitioners Journal

Journal

AESTHETICS

PRACTITIONERS

The official publication of the Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network (APAN) Volume 1. 2009

jane iredale’s

NEW Collection

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BEAUTY

Volume 1. 2009


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Your future success has arrived SKINLIGHT is a state-of-the-art multi-functional unit that combines the most scientifically sound technologies in the convenience of one unit. With SKINLIGHT you now have the flexibility to streamline your procedures so that they incorporate the very best technologies without the disruption of moving equipment around. This technological breakthrough will now make bringing your skin therapy results to a much higher level a breeze. SKINLIGHT offers:

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Microdermabrasion – Using different sized diamond-heads for different needs. No crystals needed Lymphatic Drainage – Eliminating toxins for a brighter, more receptive skin to further treatments Electroporation – opening the cells for deeper product penetration LED – Cell rejuvenation and muscle toning Cryotherapy – Facial firming and lifting Skin Tester – Finally measure your results and determine outcomes


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wonderful articles and information that we are presenting in this journal that will help you identify how you can benefit by being part of the exciting new industry organisation. If you are in business we have some great articles written by specialists in their fields. The Psychology of Positive Human Contact — Developing skills that build Client Loyalty by Rod Jones is an excellent article that present some interesting information on powerful comunication elements to help you grow your business, especially during difficult financial times. Financial Matters – The Value of Simplification by Sean Macnamara will reveal how financial structures can benefit you by helping you save money from fees and charges that you may not be aware of. Caroline Nelson in her usual nononsense style tackles the subject Salon Retail Strategies — Show me the Money with some great tips on how to keep your cash flow rolling.

Editor’s Letter Change of season is always an exciting time for me, because somehow it brings a fresh energy of excitement and renewal, and so as we approach the end of winter we can look forward to the blooms of spring in the not so distant future. No doubt many of you will be attending the Sydney International Spa and Beauty Expo with the expectation of finding out more about new launches and celebrating the joy of being part of this dynamic industry. And talking of exiting new launches I trust you will enjoy our inaugural issue of the AESTHETICS PRACTITIONERS JOURNAL – the new publication that promises to bring a new level of support to our industry, but more importantly to you. At this point I would like to announce that I have resigned from my position as the Editor of the Australian Aesthetic Journal. This journal — the AESTHETICS PRACTITIONERS JOURNAL is the official journal of the AESTHETICS PRACTITIONERS ADVISORY NETWORK (APAN) and both this journal and APAN are in no way linked to the APAA. Every new offer has value, but you need to take the time to investigate and determine what’s in it for you. So I encourage you to take a few minutes to read some of the

Editor Tina Viney Phone (07) 5593 0360 Fax: 07 5593 0367 Email: info@apanetwork.com Web: www.apanetwork.com Typesetting & Graphics Mark Viney Advertising and Marketing Tina Viney Phone: 07 5593 0360 Kharis Enterprises Pty Ltd 8 Parkdale Court Robina Qld 4218 Fax: 07 5593 0367 Mobile: 0412 177 423 Email: info@kharis.com

If you would like to ensure that your salon is indeed a safe haven when it comes to toxicity please read How to minimise toxicity and control infections in the workplace for some great recommendations. We have a great article on TGA Compliance by Dr Derrek Beech that you should all read. News is presented in two areas — Scientific News that presents research information on anti-ageing issues and the Aesthetic Industry Bulletin that will cover aesthetic specific news, Training Dates and Test Your Knowledge where we give you the opportunity to see how much you have retained from the information you have read. Why not give it a go and find out? There are numerous excellent articles on technologies that reveal how to get the best results from your treatments, and there is also some though-provoking information on educational issues and the value of networking with healthcare professionals.

Publishers Aesthetics Practioners Advisory Network Pty Ltd

Don’t forget to check out the special deal we have negotiated for our readers to attend the AustralAsian Anti-Ageing & Aesthetic Medicine Conference, which will be held in Melbourne on the 3-4 October. And this offer is only the beginning. There will be many more to come.

Print Post Approved. Circulation 5000

By receiving this journal I trust we can help make your day even better Happy reading and enjoy your journal. Kind regards

Tina Viney Editor/CEO

Design, Production and Artwork Kharis Enterprises Pty Ltd 8 Parkdale Court Robina Q 4226 Phone: 07 5593 0360 Fax: 07 5593 0367 Mobile: 0412 177 423 Email: info@kharis.com Produced for Aesthetics Practioners Advisory Network Pty Ltd ACN 136 987 169 ABN 25 136 987 169

Accounts Payable APAN Pty Ltd PO Box 5448 Q Super Centre Qld 4218 Australia Journal Advisory Board Terry Everitt Wendy Neely Dr Doug Grosse Caroline Nelson

This publication is not associated in any way with the Association of Professional Aestheticians of Australia (APAA). The Aesthetics Practitioners Journal is the official publication of the Aesthetics Practioners Advisory Network Pty Ltd, a network organisation established to service the needs of the aesthetics industry in the area of professional development and business networking. The Aesthetics Practitioners Journal is published quarterly for the benefit of its members and subscribers and aims to inform and educate its members on better business practices and industry advancements. All editorials and articles that are submitted for publishing remain the property of Aesthetics Practioners Advisory Network Pty Ltd. Cover: Jane Iredale Reproduction in part or in whole is not permitted without prior written authorisation by the publishers. Every effort has been made to ensure that all MargiFox Distributors scientific and technical information presented is as accurate as possible at Tel: 1300 850 008 the time of publishing. However, members and readers are highly email: enquiries@margifox.com.au recommended to also seek external advice from their accountant, registered financial adviser or healthcare professional for their recommendations.

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ceo’s report

Expanding your Horizons Dear Colleagues and Friends It gives me great pleasure that I welcome you to the first issue of the Aesthetics Practitioners Journal and I trust that we will stay in touch for many years to come. This is an exciting time for us as we plan to deliver new and vital information that will help you grow your confidence and increase your awareness of where the aesthetic industry is moving to and the new frontiers in wellness that are opening up great possibilities for our industry. In this issue we cover a great deal about the launch of APAN – AESTHETICS PRACTITIONERS ADVISORY NETWORK to help you understand the purpose of the organisation and how it plans to support the industry in new and more contemporary ways through a spirit of excellence.

Excellence is not a skill. It is an attitude. Ralph Marston

As the official publication of APAN, the Aesthetics Practitioners Journal will play a key role in helping shape your future, if of course you allow it to do so. By engaging in the pages of each issue we hope to take you through an interesting journey that will broaden your scope of options and take you to a new place in your knowledge. Each issue will have a key underlying theme. As you will see, this first issue covers several conceptional topics about attitudes towards yourself in determining where you want to go, as well as attitudes towards knowledge and learning. We have deliberately focused on these issues as we plan to establish a foundation for things to come. This is because some of the information we will be presenting in future issues will challenge your thinking and encourage you to look beyond the standard ways of viewing the skin and the body as well as the way you do business. In our next issue of APJ we will be focusing on various technologies, ingredients and products and how they impact the skin and body. As we investigate the emerging shifts and developments that are affecting our industry and those that are still in their formative stages, we recognise the importance of helping you prepare to face the future by growing your awareness and knowledge in these areas. As a journal, this publication will in some instances cover information to a greater depth than you would expect of a magazine. The aim for this will be to help you grasp new concepts and become more grounded with research or scientific findings on how the body is impacted by factors that prematurely age it. It will also look at how these factors may govern the outcome of your skin therapy results in terms of their longevity. The purpose of APAN as an organisation and its publication is to deliver to you tools and information that can make a real difference in your professional life. Some information may stretch you beyond your comfort zone, but it will ultimately give you the confidence to consider new options for upgrading your services to meet the changing future needs. We trust you will allow us to continue to support you in this way by joining as a member of the organisation. Please review pages 48-50 for further details. Let’s continue to make our work not only beneficial to our clients, but also rewarding and enjoyable to us. Kind regards

Tina Viney CEO

APJ 8


APAN, INDUSTRY REPORTS AND NEWS 8 10-13 48-50 84 92-95 92 93, 95

product performers

CEO’s Report APAN – The birth of a new organisation The value and Benefits of APAN Membership APAN Networking Centre Aesthetic Industry Bulletin Test your knowledge International Aesthetic & Spa Show Calendar 2009

SCIENTIFIC RESEARCH/ANTI-AGEING/INGREDIENTS 54-55 56-57 64-67

90-91 96-97

The nutritional benefits of Magnesium for Skin and Body Vitamin D – the Cinderella of Vitamins Investing in your Professional Development – 3rd Annual Anti-Ageing & Aesthetic Medicine Conference Scientific News Perfluorodicalin – a new advancement in skin oxygenation

BUSINESS & PROFESSIONAL DEVELOPMENT 14-16 22-24 36-37 46-47 72-73 86-87 88-89

Your vision – your destiny How to win the Corporate Client Making changes that will strengthen your position The Psychology of Positive Human Contact – Developing the skills that build client loyalty Salon Retail Strategies – Show me the Money The Beauty of PR Financial Matters – the Value of Simplification

EDUCATION/TECHNOLOGY 18-20 21 32-34 44 52 58-59 60-62

71 82-83

Revisiting the way you evaluate the skin Guidelines to staying compliant with regulations when using new technology The Anatomy of Learning LED Light for Skin Therapy Advancing your skills – Increasing your income The Value of an Aesthetician attending a medical conference Extending your treatment possibilities in rejuvenation of the ageing face and skin with Phototherapy Technologies Dixon Technique Bring colour back to Women’s lives

BUSINESS AND PROFESSIONAL PROFILE 26-27 38-41 68-70

Traditional formulations in a Modern Era A Pioneer of Progress Gaining the winning formula

STANDARDS AND REGULATIONS 28-30 42-43

How to minimise toxicity and control infection in the workplace The Regulation of Aesthetic Products in Australia

PRODUCTS 74-81

Product releases APJ 9


apan business

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Many of us would agree that pressures could either break us or bring out the best in us. Adversity can sometimes be the catalyst of ingenuity. It challenges us to grow stronger in order to survive and to seek new and better ways of reaching our goals and objectives. I am an avid follower of global events, because I want to compare what is happening on the home front with the rest of the world. Indeed, global economic indicators confirm that times are tough and we can expect this to continue for some time. Nevertheless, economic experts are stressing that there are some excellent opportunities and those who take advantage of them will position themselves to boom in future years when the economy recovers, which is estimated to start by 2011. Australian Employment Predictions for our industry So where does the aesthetic industry fit into the scheme of things? Indications confirm that several small businesses without a strong plan for growth are choosing to leave the industry or to move to a homebased business where their overheads are more manageable. On the other hand, several medium to larger establishments have worked hard to protect their investments and utilise strategies that continue to secure the loyalty of their clients and even grow their business. In a recent report conducted by the Australian Government on the employment outlook for personal and other services (part of the Skills Info project), some interesting information was presented on employment prospects. The report stated that the Department of

This may appear a little superficial, but another report also confirmed that consumers are now looking for ways to minimise their stress levels and purchase items that make them feel good. It is therefore not wise to discuss gloom and doom topics with your clients, but rather how a visit to you will lift their spirits and make them feel and look so much better than when they came in. This will ensure they always consider a visit to you as a positive experience. The issue of Networking First you must ensure that your services and products are the very best to ensure that your clients still consider you as a “priority” or important enough to continue to visit you. Then you need to look at ways to continue to grow your client base. This is where networking comes in because it is an important strategy. Not only is networking an essential life skill, it is also the most basic business building tool in today’s competitive market. Did you know that in Australia networking accounts for more than 87 per cent of all business? Creating information evenings at your salon is one way of growing your clientele, as are newsletters, establishing your own website, etc. However, there are numerous other highly successful strategies that can help you extend your level of influence and personal development. Some of these involve your contact and interaction with other business and professional networks.

APAN - the birth of a New Organisation Helping you grow and extending your circle of influence by Tina Viney Education, Employment and Workplace Relations (DEEWRT) has projected employment increases for the all of the Personal and Other Services sectors. Of the 20 employing occupations in this sector Beauty Therapist rated fifth highest, with hairdressing taking the highest position. The report also confirmed that in the five years to February 2008, employment for female workers has risen strongly, with the majority of this growth attributed to an increase of female fulltime workers, and this is expected to steadily continue. The Australian Bureau of Statistics has confirmed that consumer spending on personal services still remains high, while other industry surveys indicate that consumers are now more inclined to carefully examine what they spend their money on, making sure that they are getting the best value for their money. Revisiting the way you do business The above statistics indicate that it is not unrealistic to maintain an optimistic position for the aesthetic industry. However, certain measures must be taken to accommodate the changing needs of the consumers. If our products and services are to continue to be in demand we need to revisit our whole approach to them. Here are some areas we should be reviewing:

! !

!

Do your products and services offer the best value for money for your clients or can you improve on them? Do you need to step-up and update your knowledge and your communication to ensure that your clients become fully aware that you are the “Expert”? Do you need to formalise your consultation process so that the client appreciates that you are offering them professional advice that is “personalised” to meet their exact needs and expectations? This is the only way you can be assured they will remain with you. Do your products and services make your clients feel good?

The purpose of networking events is to help you advance professionally and make important links. These are both social events, while at the same time professional ones, and may come in the form of Conference Events or Business Networking functions. It is therefore important that you don’t arrive at a network event without a plan. Here are a few suggestions that will ensure they are successful: CONFERENCES: ! Read all the literature on the speakers and on the topic you will be attending and come prepared to expand your knowledge. ! Identify any questions you would like answered on the lectures you will be attending and document these questions to ask the speakers, if they do not cover this information in their lecture. ! Look for interesting people, such as other colleagues that you can make friends with. Approach them and introduce yourself. Exchange business cards and invite them for a future meeting, or for a coffee to become more acquainted and to exchange ideas. ! Ask questions, learn from others. Come prepared to be challenged and grow and to be stimulated and inspired. ! Always bring a writing pad, pen and of course your business cards, which you should be liberally giving out. If you are not a business owner but a practitioner, you should still have a business card to give out to interesting people that you would like to catch up with at a later date. BUSINESS MEETINGS: ! Always dress appropriately at a business network. Chose an outfit you would wear for a job interview. Your attire should say “I’m professional”, not “I’m a party girl/ boy”. ! Expect this to be an enriching experience where you will learn something new and relate to other business and professional people.

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communication and networking that will effectively assist the industry to grow and prosper. Through industry research it has become apparent that many businesses and practitioners are seeking a personalised approach to consultation and mentoring from experts when they encounter problems. They need help and support in identifying solutions for their work and business in order to move forward. APAN has been set up to help businesses and individuals gain the support they need quickly and efficiently through a comprehensive Mentoring/Consultation service available to its members. Furthermore, in this current economic climate businesses need to explore new ways of growing their client base.

! ! ! !

Go prepared to introduce yourself and to make connections. Focus on the quality not quantity of your connections at networking events. You’ll get better results by making a few good connections than by handing out dozens of business cards indiscriminately. First impressions matter, so mind your manners. Always stay focused on the person you are talking to and maintain eye contact. Don’t scan the room trying to decide whom you will talk to next. Show interest in the people you meet. You can make a great impression by asking a few thoughtful questions, and above all, be genuine and sincere.

If you are attending a business network it is important that you present what you do as being relevant to their needs. Skin and aesthetic services should be presented appropriately to a corporate client so that they can relate to them. Promise them services that are designed to address stress reduction, improved energy and concentration and a fresher, more youthful look. (See page 22-24 for suggestions) Extending your scope of contacts is very important to your business. Being well connected connotes success and influence – the kind of cachet every serious professional seeks to achieve. Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network The beauty industry in Australia has several Associations that support the industry, but has lacked the services of an Advisory Network. As a result, a new organisation has now been launched to address this need. The AESTHETICS PRACTITIONERS ADVISORY NETWORK (APAN) is the first professional advisory network organisation dedicated exclusively to the service and growth of the professional aesthetics industry. AESTHETICS PRACTITIONERS ADVISORY NETWORK PTY LTD (APAN) is not an Association, but a network organisation with an extensive vision to service the Aesthetics industry. The chief aim of APAN is to provide a strong support structure to practitioners and businesses through a new and contemporary organisational model. APAN will be using modern tools and methods with a focus on improving communications between stakeholders for business growth and a sustainable future. APAN is supported by a National Advisory Council consisting of highly skilled industry experts and business leaders. The Council will closely study industry changes and needs and identify areas that require improvement through a more modern approach to

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APAN aims at introducing numerous networking strategies that will assist the aesthetic industry to become more skilful in the art of networking through the use of ongoing education and new tools to help them grow and prosper. The organisation has a huge vision that will bring a new level of support to both practitioners and business owners through a cost-effective membership service. APAN will be focusing on 15 KEY AREAS of strategic support and ongoing information: ! MENTORING – Comprehensive consultation sessions with members ! BUSINESS STRUCTURES – Options on how to set up your business ! REGULATIONS – Government and Health regulations ! TAXATION – Accounting issues made easy ! CLIENTS – How to get, keep and grow your client base ! BUSINESS OPERATIONS – Policies and Procedures ! HUMAN RESOURCES – Staff Policies, wages, employment contracts ! SERVICES – Products, Equipment and External Contractors (what to look for) ! LIFE SKILLS – Personal development, managing stress, balanced living ! ONGOING EDUCATION – Staff and business owners need to constantly update their knowledge and education ! EFFECTIVE NETWORKING – Exploring the most costeffective methods ! BUSINESS BENEFITS – Getting the most from your tax deductions ! LEGAL ISSUES – Contracts ! FINANCIAL MATTERS AND INVESTMENTS – Getting the best return for your money APAN does not aim to duplicate other structures in place within the industry, but to complement and fill the gap in areas that are currently deficient. The organisation’s objective is to better serve the industry in areas where individuals need greater support to move forward and achieve their goals with greater ease. If you believe that you can benefit from the services indicated above please download an application from the APAN website www.apanetwork.com or email info@apanetwork.com. Alternatively, you can phone 07 5593 0360 for further details. Further details also available on pages 48-50.


APAN MEMBERSHIP

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Helping you grow TODAY - Connecting you to the FUTURE

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GAIN THE SUPPORT YOU NEED THROUGH: ! Mentoring ! Networking strategies ! Regular Newsletter ! Quarterly Journal ! Discounted Services ! Insurance ! Merchant banking ! Business innovative tools ! Professional Development programs ! Books and Merchandising products As a member, APAN offers you a new level of personalised service to help you more quickly achieve your goals and reach your full potential.

Join today! Join by 10 September and be in the draw to WIN 100 personalised Vogue Nail files (with your logo or contact details) valued at $154 donated by 4CP Promotional Products & Graphic Design.

AESTHETICS PRACTITIONERS ADVISORY NETWORK Phone 07 5593 0360 Fax: 07 5593 0367 Email: info@apanetwork.com Download an application from www.apanetwork.com PO Box 5448 Q Super Centre Queensland 4218

“Developing dynamic alliances for the Aesthetics Industry”


personal development

your vision – your destiny We live in a logic-driven society where success is often linked to performance without any consideration for inspiration. We are told that in order to achieve anything worthwhile, whether on a personal or a professional level, we need to set goals that will charter our direction and help us reach our targets. But how many times have you set goals and struggled to stick to them, and why is this so? Was it that you lacked discipline, or was there a deeper reason? Perhaps the reason was a missing link, and this link may be a lack of inspiration, purpose and above all — vision. Vision can be defined as the ability to see something into the future that will break new ground – something that you have never achieved before. It not only illuminates your mind’s eye, but it also ignites passion in your heart. Our brain has two hemispheres – the right brain allows us to see pictures and be inspired by our imagination, while the left brain allows us to critically analyse and systematically and logically organise our activities. To stay on course with your goals both logic and imagination must be ignited and work together. But perhaps there is an even more important issue that will help keep you on course and that is that you believe your activities reflect your core values and lead you to your destiny. The real question is this: On what are you spending your life, for it will surely be spent on something, whether consciously chosen or not. If you must spend it, why not then spend it on something that is important and meaningful to you. To spend it on your own comfort or glory is the height of egocentricity. To spend it on trying to keep your heart “safe” is wholly insane. As Helen Keller so rightly pointed out, “Life is either a daring adventure or nothing. Security does not exist in nature nor does mankind as a whole experience it as a given. Totally avoiding danger is no safer in the long run than exposure”.

APJ 14

by Tina Viney

So discover what it is that you can get excited about. If you are frightened by the prospect of going into your deepest heart to find out – don’t be, for the heart is the place where you will discover what you are really longing for. Living life to the full isn’t a selfish pursuit – it’s about becoming all that you were meant to be, being fulfilled in that regard and bringing that gift to the world. We live in a world that favours the mundane, the ordinary, the “just be like everybody else”. Having said that, there will be a cost to going after “life to the full”, but it is the only way to fulfil your purpose in exactly the way you were meant to be. Expect that it won’t all be smooth sailing — you will experience setbacks and challenges even if you are on the right track. But have faith that within you, you have God-given gifts to help you succeed, and these gifts will find a way — they always do if you believe in them. Defining moments On a personal level I have found that certain circumstances brought me opportunities to make quality decisions. There were defining moments that marked these decisions that would help me pursue my destiny. Defining moments are points in time when our choices have greater and more powerful consequences that will shape our life. These are times of discovery when the light of revelation comes and events change the course of our lives for ever. One such time was when I came to the realisation that I needed to move forward and establish APAN. Yes, I saw a need within the industry to establish a new structure that would service the aesthetic industry in a new and better way, but more importantly, I had that inner conviction that this was something I had to step out and do because it was my destiny. In your own life, times of definition will present themselves in your work, business, relationships, financial decisions and plans for the


future. These defining moments may require that you break the rules and burst through barriers that may have become quite familiar and even cosy because of the illusion of safety they convey. But once you have the conviction that you must take up the challenge for change then you need to conquer any reservations. Don’t let fear of the unfamiliar hold you back, step out and embrace what your heart and head are telling you. Justice Oliver Wendall Holmes once said, “Too many people die with their music still in them”. Let loose your own special song and dance in the special way that God made you to dance – a way that no-one else has ever seen or could ever do. A time for establishing your foundation Once you know where you want to go this is the time to set goals and establish an action plan for how you are going to reach your vision. Here you may need the assistance of an industry consultant, financial adviser or business coach to help you formulate the best possible procedures, strategies and determine the steps you need to put in place to “flesh out” your vision and make it a reality. Appointing the services of experts will help minimise and even eliminate any potential pitfalls that could cause you financial loss, not to mention heartache and sorrow. These services will bring to you a level of professional objectivity and expertise that will help you grow and reach your goals faster, so don’t look at these costs as an expense, but as an investment in your success.

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Determination – At all times you will need to keep the vision before you and be excited at what you plan to achieve. Motivate yourself that you can and will reach your goals and fulfil your vision. Lock in an attitude of determination that is fuelled with enthusiasm, and this will carry you through any challenges you may encounter. Flexibility – Identify when you may need to amend or adapt to change. New information or opportunities that offer a greater return may arise that were not part of the original plan. Evaluate them against your end goals and determine if you need to make some changes that will better serve the end purpose. To succeed you will not need to stay rigid to the original elements within your plan. Be flexible in identifying when something more appropriate comes along.

Remember, without an action-plan you cannot move forward, but without inner conviction and a vision you will only be going through the motions that may ultimately lead to self-sabotage and failure. Your heart and your mind are your inner team players – keep them both alive and talking to one another.

Stay fresh and open to learning It’s not enough to get prepared and then become stagnant. You must stay prepared. We’re told that knowledge is doubling every five years. So if you don’t keep growing, you’ll end up with coping skills that no longer match the challenges you face in the world you live in. It is a concern that many therapists within our industry do not find the time to invest in their own education and to stay up-to-date with progress. Never before do you need to make sure you remain the “expert” that others turn to for the correct professional advice and services. In tough economic times consumers are reviewing what they are spending their money on to make sure that it is still worth their investment. Make sure your services remain a priority for your clientele because you are the best person they can turn to for the advice and services you are offering them.

Don’t work with your mind without periodically consulting your heart. Women in particular are very intuitive and from time to time you may feel a check about something not being quite right. Goals are there as landmarks, however, as circumstances change you may need to reevaluate them and amend them to accommodate any change to the landscape of where you are heading. Whatever you do don’t kill your vision with semantics – stay focused on the bigger picture.

Preparation doesn’t begin with what you do; it begins with what you believe. If you believe that success tomorrow depends on what you do today, you will treat today differently. A wise sailor studies the weather before he goes to sea, because he knows that avoiding a storm is easier than getting out of one. Howard Coonely of the National Standards Institute stated, “The leader of the future will be rated by his ability to anticipate problems rather than to meet them as they come”.

Cultivating a winning mindset Throughout your journey you will need to cultivate certain attributes that will help minimise stress and help you enjoy the process. These attributes include:

Preparation is not merely an event; it’s a perspective. Abraham Lincoln said, “If I had eight hours to chop down a tree, I’d spend six sharpening my axe”. As a young man Lincoln split rails with an axe, so he knew the value of a sharp one. Wisdom always prompted him to prepare – whether he was getting ready to cut wood, study law or lead his country.

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Patience – Don’t expect everything to fall into place instantly. Evaluate a realistic time-frame that your efforts will need to give you the return you are seeking. King Solomon said, “There is a time to sow and there is a time to reap”. Success comes to those who exercise patience.

In the book, The Laws of Lifetime Growth, authors Dan Sullivan and Catherine Nomura explain, “Continual learning is essential for

APJ 15


lifetime growth. You can have a great deal of experience and be no smarter for all the things you’ve done, seen or heard. Experience alone is no guarantee of lifetime growth. But if you regularly transform your experiences into new lessons, you’ll make each day of your life a source of growth. The smartest people are those who can transform even the smallest event or situation into breakthroughs in thinking and action. Look at all of life as a school and every experience as a lesson, and your learning will always be greater than your experience.” Recently I saw an old Peanuts cartoon in which Charlie Schulz sees Charlie Brown at the beach building a magnificent sandcastle. “It’s a work of art,” Charlie Brown gasps. As he stands back to admire it, suddenly it’s destroyed by a big wave, as he was too close to the water’s edge. “There must be a lesson here, but for the life of me I don’t know what it is,” he says. That’s how many of us feel after a potentially valuable experience. We go through it but don’t grow. We read articles and attend seminars designed to help us learn, then do nothing with the information we have gained. Don’t get excited about a learning event – get excited about learning. Take ownership of information and allow it to transform you so that you return a changed person with a new way of looking at things and with new tools you are prepared to put to good use, for you haven’t really learnt until you own the knowledge and apply it. As an APAN member we will be offering you numerous learning opportunities. So please check the membership details in this journal and join our professional community and you will never look back. Find your passion in life and build your success around it and life will truly be an adventure.

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Australia’s Largest Range Of European Laser & IPL Equipment


skin science

Revisiting the way you evaluate the skin – the Scientific Approach by Gay Wardle As I travel to conduct equipment training within salons I have identified that the majority of mishaps that occur are often not associated to the therapist not operating the device correctly. Regardless of the equipment they may be using, these being IPL, microdermabrasion, or any other equipment for that matter, in most cases an incident or failure to reach the expected results is due to not identifying what was really happening in the skin at the time of the treatment. This may not mean that the therapist has been negligent in any way. However, it may be an indication that the new equipment she is now using necessitates that she has a more scientific understanding of the cellular structure of the skin and how the cells will interact with the currents that will impact them during the treatments. In recent times Service Skills Australia has engaged in broad and indepth consultation with industry stakeholders to determine new developments within the beauty industry. The objective was to identify what new units needed to be included in the Beauty Training Package to better service the industry. Advanced devices and technologies entering the industry have resulted in rapid changes within the domain of treatment options. These changes now necessitate that the Training Package is reviewed regularly to ensure that the training and skills delivered meet with industry requirements. But what about therapists who are already qualified, what do they need to do to ensure that they can confidently deliver the level of results that will now be required of them? Why do we need to revisit the way we view the skin? What are the recent changes in our industry and what expectations are they placing on the salons and their staff? We are all aware that new scientific developments have introduced more advanced and sophisticated equipment as well as products with greater concentration of anti-oxidants and more efficient delivery systems. This means that therapists now need to also update their ingredient chemistry so that they can identify new and better ways of achieving greater results through the appropriate combination of treatments and technologies working in synergy.

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Even though you can expect credible training from reputable suppliers, you will not necessarily be taught how to combine them to maximise your results. This is where your knowledge of skin science and physics will allow you to critically review the new procedures you will be putting together to bring your results to the next level. The days when everything you do has been delivered as a step-by-step training by others is fast becoming a thing of the past. The contemporary therapist is now required to think for themselves, review information they have learnt and develop their own methodologies and protocols for their own signature treatments that will be unique to their establishment. As recently as just eight years ago the “natural” facial (without the use of equipment) was very much in vogue. Equipment was dismissed with a greater emphasis on the totally hands-on manual facial. This methodology ensured less risks, but also less impressive results. As appearance enhancement is now a global phenomenon, skin rejuvenation and anti-ageing techniques are what consumers are looking for, in other words they want to not only feel good, but also look younger – this is now the norm and the standard expectation. Salons that do not want to embrace this change risk being replaced by their more forward-thinking competitors who are now able to offer real result in anti-ageing and skin rejuvenation. This is a fact that we must all face. I believe that to achieve true professional results one of the most important skills we need to revisit is how we analyse the skin. It is now necessary to not only look at the surface of the skin and recognise manifestations, types and conditions, but also identify underlying conditions before determining the best method of treating it. But why is this so important now? In previous years skin analysis was only essential on a very basic level. This was because most of the treatments we delivered did not penetrate the skin and primarily worked towards softening the skin and


conditioning it. However, now we are able to break some of those penetration barriers, both through equipment and through skincare technology. This is why skin evaluation has now come under greater scrutiny to deliver accurate evaluation of what is truly happening to the skin so that the correct course of action can be determined when treating it. To achieve this we need to undertake a more scientific approach to the way we evaluate the skin. Gaining these skills is now paramount to our professional reputation as they empower us to more accurately determine what choices will best benefit our clients’ skin and determine the effectiveness of their treatments. What you should gain from your training If you are not sure if you will benefit from advanced training consider the following questions: Fitzpatrick Scale – In recent years the importance of using the Fitzpatrick Scale to determine skin classifications has become a critical part of accurately assessing the skin’s tolerance to procedures such as skin peels, pigmentation treatments, microdermabrasion, laser and IPL treatments. However, you cannot learn how to correctly use this tool just by reading a book. In our Advanced Skin Analysis Training we teach you not just to look at the colour of the skin, but also how to examine the cross-racial background of the client as this will point to underlying considerations that may change your reading of the skin. Additionally, we also train you to use this scale not as a “fixed position”, but to look how factors within your client’s activities may vary this scale reading from visit to visit.

If you recognise that this training can also benefit you please consider undertaking the Advanced Skin Analysis Training. Training is available in every State. For further information email: info@ozabart.info or phone 0420 332 343. Gay Wardle is respected and recognised in the aesthetic industry as a leading trainer in advanced technologies and techniques as well as for her commitment to excellence. She owns two multiaward-winning salons in Queensland that allow her to constantly trial and test treatment outcomes using her expertise in Advanced Skin Analysis. She travels extensively throughout Australia training other salons on how to achieve the kind of success that she is experiencing. She is known for her gracious and generous manner and for her enormous wealth of knowledge, which she liberally shares with all whom she trains. Gay Wardle can be contacted on 0418 708 455.

Skin Cell Groups – Can you identify the three major cell groups of the skin and understand how they behave and how this knowledge can help you determine what needs the skin will have at the time of treatment? Impaired Cell Membrane – Is the skin lacking in essential fatty acids and is the cell membrane impaired? If yes, do you know how to fix it? Vitamin Deficiencies – Is the skin vitamin deficient? What roles does the various vitamins – Vitamins A, C, E and B play on the skin? Do you know how to identify these deficiencies and rectify them? Will you need to recommend supplementation to counteract these deficiencies? Collapsed rete pegs – What happens to the skin when the rete pegs are collapsed or flattened? What nutrients can you recommend to assist in their repair? The role of Peptides – What role do peptides play on the skin? Do you know the different types of peptides and how they affect the skin? Gene factors – Do you know the different ways that skin ages? What role does the red gene factor play on ageing and how does this manifest at the epidermal junction? The Spynosum Layer – We know that the Spynosum layer is the largest layer in the epidermis. Do you know what happens in that lay and the role it plays in the skin’s vitality? The Advanced Skin Analysis Course (Pastiche MethodTM) is a scientifically credible method that is recognised globally, with over 5000 graduates who are successfully using this method to confidently determine how to achieve excellent skin-treatment results.

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Australian Educator offers Advanced Skin Analysis course Training in the internationally acclaimed Pastiche Method® of skin analysis will soon be available to all Australian beauty therapists and skin treatment practitioners following the acquisition of an exclusive Australian license from International Dermal Science expert and skin guru, Florence Barrett-Hill. Queensland industry icon Gay Wardle has been chosen as the Australian licensee/facilitator and will begin training the groundbreaking skin analysis method from early 2009. Gay, who is a well-respected award-winning therapist and educator, has formed a new company Education in Advanced Aesthetics to facilitate the training. “We hope to be able to offer training across the country on a regular basis, and reach as many therapists who want to up-skill as possible” said Gay. Originally trained in the Pastiche Method® of skin analysis five years ago, Gay has undertaken all of the post graduate training offered by Pastiche over the past five years. With this advanced knowledge she fully understands the importance of getting the initial analysis of the skin correct, as this is the basis of any successful treatment program and many skin conditions respond differently to treatments dependant on cause.

Gay Wardle

“For the modern therapist and skin treatment practitioner to be taken seriously and compete with the cosmetic medicine clinics, we have to offer more accurate and credible services. This means our diagnosis of conditions and consequent choice of appropriate solutions must be of greater accuracy and skill” The course Gay will be teaching will be The Pastiche Method® for the skin treatment professional, (Level one) and is unique in the respect that the technically advanced protocol is non-product aligned. It was developed by internationally recognised dermal science expert, Florence Barrett-Hill, and has been taught and practised internationally since 1994 with over five thousand graduates worldwide to date. In 2004, the core of the acclaimed course became a best selling book; with thousands of therapists, aestheticians, and skin care technicians in 16 countries and three languages taking their knowledge to the next level and spawning a new breed of skin care professionals. It is the core content of the book that will be presented in a three-day presentation consisting of theory and practical exercises. Many leading icons in professional skin care recognise Florence (and the training programs she has developed) as one of the few people uniquely capable to take professional skin treatment therapy and non-invasive aesthetic medicine in to the realms of scientific skin care, with her expertise and educational services sought by organisations internationally. Florence Barrett-Hill has known Gay personally for many years and is pleased that she will be presenting the training program to Australian therapists. “Gay and I share the common goal of raising the level of awareness and knowledge of the professional therapist that will allow them to become more valuable, successful and contented in their careers” said Florence. “As we develop new partnerships with talented and skilled educators such as Gay around the world, we will be able to offer more high quality training and influence the beauty industry to develop and grow to new levels of technical competence”

Gay will be teaching the level one version of the course which is the core of the 2004 book of the same name

Long time ASLMS and APAA member Gay is well experienced and skilled to offer the Pastiche course, with over 25 years of industry experience including clinic ownership, product distribution and the last four in technical education. With over a dozen industry related awards and a passion to help others grow, the sky is the limit for this enthusiastic, passionate skin care educator and practitioner. For more information: EDUCATION IN ADVANCED AESTHETICS

0420 332 343 or Email: info@ozabart.info Www.advancedaesthetics.com.au

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www.pastiche.net.nz


GUIDELINES TO STAYING COMPLIANT WITH REGULATIONS WHEN USING NEW TECHNOLOGIES Having been involved with the beauty and tanning industry in WA since 1992 Chris Comans was constantly hungry for more knowledge. A strong advocate that professionalism and training go hand-in-hand, she pursued to grow her knowledge on issues that related to standards within the beauty industry. In 2003 she was given the opportunity to purchase DenVega – a business that provided equipment for the industry. With a commitment to high standards of training as an issue of priority, Chris travelled to the US to pursue further training. There she met Joyce Osborn, the president and CEO of BEK Incorporated, an amazing woman who was the inventor and educator of the BriteWhite Teeth Whitening System® and a founding member of the Council of Cosmetic Teeth Whitening in the USA. Chris was so impressed with the system, the high manufacturing standards and the extensive backup and legal resources associated with the use of this device that she decided to introduce this technology to Australian salons. Through further investigation Chris also identified two other technologies that were also manufactured by BEK Incorporated. These were: ! MicroLite – a device utilising microcurrent that offered excellent results for skin toning and improving the appearance of age spots and pigmentation; and ! VascuLite – for effectively improving the appearance of unsightly vascular blemishes, skin tags and acne. Both these technologies are scientifically proven and credible and allow aesthetic practitioners to extend their treatment service. Since their launch on to the Australian market they have been highly popular as they allow therapists to provide visible and lasting results for skin improvement in appearance, as well as an additional income stream. On researching the industry Chris recognised the importance for devices used by aesthetic practitioners to be scientifically sound, and to offer a unique point of difference through the treatments they deliver. “There are several devices that offer results,” Chris stated, “that are invasive, however, all three of our devices - the BriteWhite, VascuLite and MicroLite offer excellent results and are noninvasive.” ®

Chris also clarified that the BriteWhite Teeth Whitening System is considered to be a cosmetic procedure under TGA regulations. In terms of potential income, if BriteWhite Teeth Whitening Systems is used to service just one client per day for a six-day week this would amount to $1194 per week and annually it would bring the salon a revenue of $62,000. The issue of compliance There has been some controversy about the territorial rights of performing teeth-whitening treatments. At this stage there is no law that prohibits this service to be provided to clients within a salon. However, for this to remain as such it is important that therapists strictly adhere to the training and guidelines as determined by their supplier. All clients should carefully read and sign a Consent Form prior to a treatment. All consumables in use should only be purchased through the recommended supplier in order that the correct results can be guaranteed. If the industry retains its professional integrity by not modifying or straying from the procedural protocols, but remains true to the principles of operation and adhere to all regulations, then technology will Assist their advancement, enhancing their reputation and contribute to their financial progress, even in difficult economic times. For further information on DenVega equipment and training phone Chris Comans on 1300 826 633.

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servicing clients

How to Win the Corporate Client – Part I by Tina Viney In a world when even fashion houses have moved away from haute couture to mass production. When the genuine items are replaced by the faux look-a-likes. When progressively we rarely encounter the exclusive or the unique and genuine in almost anything, it is not surprising that we are seeing a shift and renewed interest in anything that is “customised”. In terms of our industry the spa revolution introduced customised packages that went with a theme in an effort to lure clients to indulge in the “experience” through a combination of services that offered better value for their money. This trend was also necessitated because of the huge overheads of running a spa and in particular a destination spa, where time was precious and serious revenue was needed to maintain the upkeep of such establishments. Rather than just offer individual services, clients were encouraged to consider taking a “package” for an incredible experience and an excellent saving. And so this trend has spilt over to the aesthetic clinics and salons in a bid to offer not only greater results to the clients, but also more secure revenue to the salon or clinic.

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PACKAGES TO A TARGET MARKET But let’s take a closer look at what makes treatment packages successful. For them to work they need the following three elements: ! A synergy of treatments and services that best meet the needs of the consumer and offer more enhanced results ! A cost-effective advantage in purchasing the package over individual treatments ! A name that is inviting and enticing, while helping the client identify positively with the results that are promised. In our industry we see many package deals on offer, from slimming to skin-management treatment. The aim is to deliver a service that meets with consumer interest and demands, providing a solution to their needs. Not only should they offer incredible value to the client, but they should also be able to be delivered at a lesser cost to the salon. Imagine how much time you would need to greet, prepare and deliver an eyelash and an eyebrow tint service to a client? Now imagine offering them a facial where the tinting could be delivered while the


client was resting under a mask – no extra linen and no extra time or expense on salaries. Packages are therefore of great value not only to the client, but also to the business. THE PROFILE AND NEEDS OF THE CORPORATE CLIENT As I mentioned previously, packages work when they appropriately provide a selection of treatments to meet the needs of a target market. However, there is one area that has never been fully tapped into and that is customising a carefully assessed treatment package to address the needs of the business, profession or corporate client. This is one of the first initiatives that APAN will guide the industry to develop. So where do we begin? What considerations will determine how to put such a package together? First, let us define and analyse this sector of the community. A corporate, business or professional person usually lives a life of high expectations, has to deal with mental pressures and quite frequently has to endure a demanding workplace where competitiveness, jealousies and office politics thrive and rule. Their job may demand that they be required to pursue large accounts, securing lucrative contracts and having to achieve demanding financial targets. They often have to attend early board meetings, business breakfasts or cocktail parties to establish networks and meet the necessary people that will help them reach their objectives and meet their goals. As a profile they are often highly ambitious individuals. They place high expectations on themselves and are constantly on the go to better themselves. They have to think clearly, speak articulately and in a timely manner, look professional and stand out in a fiercely competitive business world as the person others can trust, respect and be prepared to do business with. They are often highly driven, selfmotivated and work long hours without a second thought. As a rule, most of the work they do is indoors with very little fresh air and lots of airconditioning. Alternatively, they may have to rush in traffic to meet clients or to negotiate business in clients’ premises. To get extra mileage they are often addicted to their own adrenalin, eat on the run and live off nervous energy. On a positive side they usually enjoy the challenge of their work and most likely get paid extremely well. ELEMENTS TO CONSIDER IN PLANNING YOUR PACKAGE Now that we have taken a look at this individual, do we have something to offer them and how can we tailor something specifically for them? More importantly, how can we convince them to take us up on the offer that what we will provide them is not just a pleasant experience, but important and of real value to them. In reviewing the corporate client we must understand that they are high achievers, and high achievers are selective on how they spend their time and with whom they will spend it. Time is very valuable to them and they will only engage in activities that they consider positive and of value to them and their purpose. Your first consideration to address is the issue of stress and how this impacts them. So how can stress negatively affect them? Here are four key considerations: ! Their ability to think clearly and strategically ! The impact that stress will have on their health ! The impact that stress will have on their appearance ! The impact stress may have on their performance Therefore what you include in the Corporate/Business person’s Package should address these four areas. It should therefore include:

DE-STRESSING To achieve this you should include in a facial treatment a total destressing massage that should incorporate the face, with extra emphasis on the jaw, eyes, forehead and temples as well as the whole head, ears, neck, decolletage and shoulders. Additionally you can include a full back massage as your first step, working on the spine and the nervous system. Here you can incorporate therapeutic techniques such as manual lymphatic drainage, motor point and pressure-point massage and other modalities that you may be trained in. This part of the treatment should also include therapeutic-grade essential oils to help fortify the relaxation process, (we will cover that in greater detail in the next issue of this journal). The de-stressing massage should be thorough and should take no less than 15 or 20 minutes. (Please note that, as this article is the first part of many series, we will only be covering an overview of the various elements of consideration when customising a treatment package for the corporate client. In subsequent issues we will address in greater details specific protocols and techniques that can be used to offer something truly incredible for your corporate clients.) SKIN IMPROVEMENT To address correct skin concerns you must commence with a very thorough skin analysis where you identify the skin type and condition, look for deficiencies such as dehydration, sebaceous activity and circulation, as well as all the considerations that are part of a thorough, advanced skin analysis. If the client suffers from tension they could exhibit overactive sweat glands that can make the skin appear oily, but on closer investigation it could be perspiration. These clients will often suffer from dehydration and an overactive nervous system. When we are under stress the sympathetic nervous system is stimulated, putting our body into a fight and flight mode. What this means is that valuable blood is drawn from the largest organ in the body — the skin and directed towards the muscles. Blood delivers oxygen and nutrients to the skin and therefore a highly stressed individual could benefit from treatments that take into account these facts. As a minimum you should include a thorough exfoliation procedure using such products as enzyme peels, AHA peels or microdermabrasion. The skin should then be supported with an appropriate vitamin or antioxidant in serum form that can be infused through galvanic currents, LED light or electroporation to assist in the deeper penetration of these nutrients. As thinking people often take longer to truly unwind you will probably find that they do best if they are allowed to experience a treatment that is 75 minutes to 90 minutes in duration. This will allow them to move into a time of total relaxation. Your facial should then incorporate other techniques and treatment protocols that would best suit your client’s needs. GROOMING As this client must always look their very best, they need to be reviewed on their grooming needs. Areas to review are:

! ! ! ! !

Any facial hair removal Eyebrow shaping – this must be performed precisely (there are some great courses you can take to perfect the designer eyebrow technique). Eyebrow tinting and eyelash tinting Lash extensions Lash perming

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For a more permanent or longer-lasting procedure cosmetic tattoo can also be of great benefit to these clients. It can offer more balanced eyebrows that can be also given some length or lift if the need warrants it, eyeliner to keep the eyes always looking their best and lipliner with blend to improve the shape and colour of the lips, even if their lipstick has faded. As you teach your client on the virtues of professional-strength skincare it is also advisable that you introduce them to a quality brand of mineral makeup and ensure that they have adequate sun protection. However, they must be taught on correct application methods and quantities of use of both mineral makeup and sunscreens. THE NAME When addressing a corporate client it is important that you present a package that is specifically designed and named for them. You could call it: ! The Professional/Businesswoman’s Secret Weapon Package A treatment package designed to melt away stress, improve clarity and concentration, revive the skin to a more youthful appearance and sharpen your grooming so that you look immaculate and ready for business. For the male client you will need to create a menu just for him:

!

The Professional/Businessman’s Top Achiever’s Package A treatment package carefully designed to reduce stress levels, improve concentration and clarity of thought, lift your moods and sharpen your looks, leaving you ready for action.

The menu should be built to a time frame – 1hr 30mins, two hours or three hours. You could allow a certain level of flexibility for the client to choose what they want. For example, for the women they could choose a foot massage instead of a back massage, a hand massage instead of facial hair removal if they do not need it etc.

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Men can choose between a back or foot massage, or even a nail trim and buff. If you have spa facilities you can include spa therapies. Alternatively, you could include a pedicure or a manicure, using essential oils such as peppermint, eucalyptus, tea tree oil or even lavender, which are all great antiseptic and relaxing oils. Additionally you could include magnesium salts or mineral salt for extra health benefits. MARKETING YOUR PACKAGE Now that you have worked everything out, image going to a businesswomen’s breakfast and you are mingling with a group of women who exchange business cards and introduce themselves and share their professional orientation. There is a bank manager, a real estate agent, a legal secretary and a finance broker. Then your turn comes. What do you say and what can you offer these ladies? This is what you can say after you introduce your name. “I am an aesthetic practitioner. I specialise in skin therapy and use anti-ageing treatment and protocols to help people feel and look better. In fact we have something designed just for you ladies – It is called The Professional/Business Woman’s Secret Weapon. It’s a treatment package that is specifically designed to relieve stress, improve your concentration and help you look younger and perform better at your work. We even have Wednesday night as a Special Night open just for you. Would anyone like my business card? Do you think this would get their attention better than saying we offer a skin improvement and pampering package? I think so. In the next issue of this journal we will address aspects of the treatment menu in greater detail. In the meantime, consider ways that you can put your own personal touches to winning the corporate client. They have the disposable income. They also need you to reach their peak performance. Who knows, you may even help them win that contract they have been aiming for with greater ease.


ayurvedic skincare

Traditional Formulations in a Modern Era Based on Ayurvedic principles, OmVeda products were the first of its kind to be launched in Australia. We trace their history and origin of their unique formulation through an interview we conducted with their formulator, Yasmin Sadiko. APJ 1. Who established OmVeda and when was in introduced to Australia? Yasmin: With a passion for the skin I wanted to introduce these unique formulations to Australia and so in 1997 I launched the OmVeda Skincare brand in Australia. The product was extensively researched and trialled over a 10-year period prior to its launch. Our team of experts included Ayurvedic doctors, ethno-botanists and Ayurvedic beauty specialists who helped to make OmVeda skin, hair and body products. The brand currently enjoys an incredible reputation that stands for excellence across all levels. Its authenticity and uniqueness provides excellent results and this is the very basis of its growth. OmVeda comprises treatments and retail products available from leading spas and salons, both nationally and internationally. APJ 2: Where are your ingredients sourced? Yasmin: OmVeda uses organically grown ingredients sourced from various parts of India. Selection is based on optimal growth conditions for each plant, ensuring purity and potency. OmVeda supports and encourages several small organic farmers who till the soil, grow and harvest their crops according to tradition. The quality of their soil is far richer in minerals, vitamins and trace elements than that of most modern organic farms. Plants are handpicked at peak time and in the right season to maximise the strength and healing properties of the ingredients. The fresh raw ingredients, that make up the Omveda line include concentrated extracts of herbs, flowers, leaves, roots, resins, wood, bark, nuts and seeds, and freshly pressed oils such as almond, sesame and sunflower. The manufacture and preparation of ingredients follow strict Ayurvedic principles. All products are specifically formulated and tested for use with every skin condition. APJ 3: If a salon has an existing cosmeceutical range that they are happy with can they introduce OmVeda as a complementary range? Yasmin: Absolutely, both can work together comfortably. The OmVeda range can be used as an adjunct or to expand the existing customer base, helping a cosmeceutical-based menu. OmVeda products have several ingredients that assist with detoxifying and purifying the skin so that it will respond better to further treatments. APJ 4: Your massage oils are very concentrated. How do they differ from other oils on the market and how should they be used? Yasmin: The OmVeda massage oils are made to traditional Ayurvedic formulations to maximise the health benefits of the herbs used. Freshly ground herbs are infused through a special process and left overnight. The oil is then thoroughly drained to remove any powdered particles, and this process is then repeated for up to 21 days depending on the oil. To maximise the effectiveness of these healing oils in treatments, they should be warmed and applied generously to the skin and massaged in. This has a twofold benefit – first, it helps to lighten the consistency of the oil, and second, it enhances absorption of the oil and the specific herbs. Each OmVeda massage oil has a retail accompaniment. It is very beneficial to encourage clients to use the oil regularly daily at home for maximum benefit.

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APJ 5: Name some of the key ingredients in the OmVeda range and state their benefits to the skin? Yasmin: There are many medicinal herbs used in this Ayurvedic product. Far too many to include here, but here is a small list: Vetivert: The skin benefits of Vetiver can be attributed to its many properties, including antiinflammatory, antiseptic, nervine, sedative, tonic and vulnerary. Known in India as “Khus” or “Khus-Khus”, it is extensively used in the perfume, food and beverages industries. The botanical name of Vetiver is Vetiveria Zizanoides or Andropogon Muricatus. This grass has a very pleasant and mild, earthy, musky smell, which has a cooling effect on the body and the mind. Turmeric: A decongestant, anti-bacterial and anti-inflammatory herb, Turmeric is known as Haldi in India. Turmeric is also a very effective tonic and a blood purifier. Saffron: Commonly known in Indai as Kesar. Since time immemorial saffron has occupied a special place in the culture and tradition of Indian people. This exotic herb is famous for its bright yellow colour and flavour and used in cooking. Saffron is valued globally for not only its culinary, but also its medical properties. Topically it is applied to improve the appearance of skin texture and conditions such as acne and problematic skin. Aegle Marmelos - Bael Fruit: An analysis of the Bael fruit shows it is rich in minerals and vitamins, especially vitamin C. The ripe fruit is aromatic and astringent, which helps protect the skin against impurities. The bael tree is one of the most useful medicinal plants of India. All the parts of this tree, including stem, bark, root, leaves and fruit at all stages of maturity, have medicinal properties and have been used as traditional medicine for thousands of years. Rubia Cordifolia - commonly known as Manjishta is known as the best blood-purifying herb in Ayurveda by aiding in the removal of toxins. It is astringent, diuretic, haemostatic and lithotriptic in action. Reddish pink in colour, its properties on the skin are tonic, antiseptic, astringent, cooling and anti-bacterial. APJ 6: What are your specialised treatments? Yasmin: With beauty care as its ultimate goal, OmVeda has created a range of luxurious and healing Signature Facials for outstanding results. We offer the therapist an enormous choice in treatments for face, body and hair. Formulations are either prepared or mixed from specifically combined herbal powders. The formulations can be blended into fresh masks and intensified through the addition of ingredients like yoghurt, milk, honey, water, eggs, vegetables or seasonal fruits. The methods of treatment combine ancient Indian rituals and techniques to provide a totally relaxing and rejuvenating experience for every client to discover. Treatments provide the full benefits of key ingredients. Signature Facials include: 24 Carat Gold Facial, for dry, dulling and/or mature skins. The Omveda Pure Silver Facial for hot and inflamed skin that needs cooling and hydration. OmVeda Mango Thermo-Herbal Treatment is excellent for sagging skin, sun damage, dry and dull skin and to minimise the appearance of lines and wrinkles. OmVeda Herbal Body Detox - A unique combination of herbal powders blended with fresh yoghurt to detoxify and balance the condition of the skin. Suitable for all skin types.


APJ 7: Why do your formulations not contain water? Yasmin: None of the OmVeda lotions or creams contain water. This means they are concentrates and can be massaged into the skin with wet hands or in conjunction with the OmVeda Saffron Oil. Being a traditional brand and using Ayurvedic methodology the base of creams and lotions is beeswax and pure cold pressed oils. Herbs are infused into the oil over a period of weeks to make the formulation more potent. This is then made into a cream or lotion. APJ 8: What kind of preservatives do you use in the OmVeda formulations and what is their shelf life? Yasmin: As with herbal medicine the shelf life for OmVeda products are three years from date of manufacture. We use herbal powders in a base of oil and many of the Ayurvedic herbs such as neem, bael fruit, lemon and sandalwood have antibacterial properties so they do not need to use of additional preservatives. We recommend that the products be used within one year of purchase. This does not mean that the product renders itself useless, but rather that the ingredients progressively deteriorate over time and become less effective. APJ 9: You have a very unique Rose Toner, tell us about the Rose extract you use? Yasmin: We use Rose water and powder from Rosa Centofolia – 100-leafed cabbage rose, which is a wonderful deep red and very fragrant rose. People often comment that the scent reminds them of their grandmother. This is because we use the traditional method of cultivation for this rose (not the hybrid methods). In this way we retain all its nutritive properties, while its wonderful aromatic properties are also enhanced. APJ 10: Your products are very pure, how well are they positioned in today's priceconscious market? Yasmin: Our products are extremely well priced. OmVeda sits mid-range in price, and the cost per treatment is very low. This is largely because we encourage salon and spa therapist to combine the products with fresh ingredients eg. one teaspoon of the OmVeda Skin Rejuvenator is made into a paste with one and half teaspoons of yoghurt. This means that the one teaspoon will double in volume. Any therapist conscious of their bottom line should truly not look further than OmVeda. Many of our facials are an average $10 per treatment, which is very hard to beat! APJ 11: What are some of the common questions you are asked by therapists about OmVeda? Product consistency and colour: A plus or minus 5 per cent variance in consistency and colour can be expected from batch to batch. All colours within the product range are totally natural. The benefits of organic cultivation are reflected in the vibrant colour and aroma of our ingredients. Do products contain preservatives? OmVeda products contain no mineral oils, petrochemicals, parabens, synthetic additives, preservatives or SLFs that interfere with the body’s own mechanisms for repair. There are no fillers in any product. Each and every ingredient is there for its medicinal properties in line with Ayurvedic philosophies. What results can I expect? Treatments and products are prescriptive, suitable for every skin type and for the holistic treatment of a wide range of conditions for outstanding results. Can they be used on men? All treatments and products are suitable for both men and women of all ages. OmVeda is not gender discriminatory. Every aspect of skin, body and hair is covered in both retail and professional. Can machinery be used with Omveda treatments? The use of machinery is not necessary in our facial and body treatments, however, their efficacy is not affected by the use of standard salon equipment, e.g. vapourzone, galvanic and high-frequency treatments. The OmVeda Gels (Silver and Gold) can be greatly enhanced when infused by using galvanic current. Is OmVeda Australian manufactured? No, as it is a traditional Ayurvedic range and Ayurveda is indigenous to India. The knowledge and quality of herbs to maintain efficacy and efficiency is best sourced from its place of origin. Soil and climatic conditions play an important role. However, OmVeda is 100% Australian owned and guarantees freshness of product and immediate supply. For further information phone OmVeda on: 1300 662 383.

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health issues

How to minimise toxicity and control infections in the workplace by Tina Viney Creating a salon ambience that is welcoming and will leave a positive lasting impression on your clients is paramount to every salon’s success. But as part of this objective, maintaining a healthy environment is also very important, not only for your clients’ benefit, but also for your staff’s health and productivity. However, most salons focus on achieving a warm and nurturing atmosphere to “cocoon” their client in, and this does not always make it easy to ensure good ventilation. A recent study published in the American Journal of Nursing confirmed that atmospheric bacterial contamination present in many clinics has been assured and scientifically established. The level of airborne pollution generated during many routine activities has confirmed that extra care must be taken to minimise this risk both for clients/patients as well as staff. In Australia each year, more than 8000 people develop lung cancer. According to international figures, among men only 10% of lung cancers occur in non-smokers, compared with as much as 30% for women. Doctors are still probing this deadly gender gap, “but hormones may play a role”, says Dr James Stevenson of the Cancer Institute of New Jersey. “There is some evidence that oestrogen is involved in the development of lung cancer in both smoking and nonsmoking women.” However, interestingly enough air pollution and workplace toxins were also identified as contributing risk factors.

instructions and dilute according to the manufacturer’s recommendations. HAND CLEANING Our hands can be one of the worst offenders when it comes to bacteria and viral transmissions. Within the Government Health Regulations in every State there are clear guidelines on how to clean and sanitise your hands effectively. Sadly, it is a well-established fact that many therapists perform this activity hastily and inadequately. And if you thought you were the only one, a recent study indicated that over 70% of doctors do not wash their hands regularly. Using a nailbrush is also important as bacteria can be harboured under the nails. This routine should be performed before and after every treatment, as well as after such activities such as handling money and other chores within the salon.

So what precautionary measures should be taken to ensure our working environment is safe? Here are some recommendations:

THE USE OF GLOVES A further safeguard to transmitting bacteria is the importance of using gloves wherever possible. Gloves should be used during waxing (particularly underarm and bikini waxing) as well as during pedicures and any procedure such as extractions of impurities, cosmetic tattooing, electrolysis or other procedures where you may come in contact with blood. A reputable supplier of cleaning and infection control products is Livingstone International, manufacturers and suppliers of a comprehensive range of cleaning products, gloves and other ancillary items of use for a safer and healthier work environment. They can be contacted on 1300 557 557 or visit www.livingstone.com.au.

CLEANING PRODUCTS Maintain regular cleaning protocols by promptly emptying bins, disinfecting bench tops, beds and floors should be routine. However, cleaning products and especially certain anti-bacterial products are highly toxic. Therefore as much as possible look out for the non-toxic and eco-friendly options in cleaning products and ensure that you dilute them to the recommended levels. Using anti-bacterial solutions at high strengths can contribute to health hazards, so follow the

AIRBORNE BACTERIA Clients entering your salon will often unaware bring with them potential viruses, bacteria and infections. As most salons cannot be ventilated through open windows there are other means of disinfecting airborne bacteria and viruses One of these is through the use of medical-grade essential oils. These can be burnt in your oil burner or diffused. Anion Aroma Diffusers offer a wonderful slimline device that also incorporates negatively charged ionisation. It is an Air

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Purifier, Ioniser, Humidifier, Aroma Diffuser and Mini Night Lamp and operates for eight hours, after which time it switches off itself. You can contact the distributors, Essentials in-a-box, on 0433 536 669. Research confirms that negatively charged ions effectively reduce microbial air pollution and even destroy infections, such as staphylococcus aureus. Negative ions purify the air by magnetically attracting to pollutants until these newly formed larger particles become too heavy to remain in the air you breathe. The negative ioniser continually produces negative ions, so even if one of these fallen particles is kicked up into the air, it is quickly removed again. These fallen particles are typically collected by your normal cleaning activities. The most important thing, though, is that they are taken out of the air, preventing you from inhaling them into your lungs, which is how they cause problems. In situations where dust may carry micro-organisms, negative air ionisation can be economical to use to reduce infections. There are several studies that confirm this. One study confirmed that negative ions were economically and successfully used to reduce the incidence of Newcastle Disease Virus in poultry houses (Mitchell 1994). Poultry houses can be notoriously dusty. ESSENTIAL OILS High-quality essential oils with proven anti-viral and anti-bacterial properties as mentioned above are an excellent investment to either burn in your salon or diffuse. An example of oils that contain high therapeutic constituents are:

salon/clinic rooms and bedrooms, or for relief in sick rooms. Respiratory Blend has a pleasant fresh aroma and can be diffused, used in a vaporiser, oil burner or even used as a spray mist (check page 81 for details). Used with a Diffuser it can offer dual benefits.

Eucalyptus Polybrachia, Eucalyptus Radiata, Tea Tree oil, Thyme Rouge, Lemon, Peppermint, Pine, Clove, Origanum and Niaouli. If you are looking for a synergistic formula try Aromanexus Respiratory Blend. This synergistic blend was formulated by a medical doctor who specialises in aromatherapy. It consists of the highest-grade essential oils and offers excellent anti-viral and antibacterial properties that can be used for preventative purposes in

CANDLES One of the most effective ways of creating mood and ambience in a salon is through the use of candles. They are so atmospheric and the gentle flicker of light can be so comforting and inviting. However, it is important that you also become aware that burning candles can emit toxic and even carcinogenic fumes. For this reason we are seeing the introduction of soy candles as the healthier alternative. If you were not aware of how they differ here is a comparison:

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Paraffin wax is derived from petroleum Burning paraffin wax emits harmful vapours Burning paraffin wax emits black soot When spilt paraffin wax is extremely difficult to remove Burning paraffin burns quickly and may produce carcinogens Paraffin candles do not burn completely Paraffin wax must be blended with harmful chemicals to be able to release fragrance

Exquisite Ambience is a boutique company that uses only 100% pure organic soy available in a selection of incredible aromas. The candles are sold only through salons and spas and they can be private labelled so you can onsell them as a retail item to your clients. They also produce eight-hour tea lights for burning within your essential oil burner for a totally healthier choice. The best place to burn your soy candles is in the reception area or in the client resting room (if you are offering spa treatments) where their gentle aromas can be enjoyed, while your client is sipping a refreshing drink or herb tea. With a few additional considerations you can ensure that your salon is not only pleasurable, but also offer a healthy, clean and eco-friendly environment, giving you, your staff and clients piece of mind.

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Soy candles are totally vegetable-based They are 100% non-toxic Soy Candles burn cleaner and are cooler If spilt soy candles can clean easily with soap and water Last 70-80% longer and are healthier Soy candles burn completely Can utilise natural and essential oil fragrances and release them faster and longer.

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education & training professional development? Perhaps the simplistic answer to this is to first determine what is of real interest to you. What is it that really gets you excited or that which you wish you could do? This is the starting point on your quest for ongoing knowledge. The inclination and interest to explore a new thought culture will stimulate not only an adventurous spirit in you, but also lead you to a process that will expand your learning possibilities. The process of Lifelong Learning While I base the following in respect to the aesthetician or skincare practitioner, the concepts and thoughts of lifelong learning apply to every profession. As the ‘demarcation lines’ between aesthetics and allied health professions continue to blur, so you will find the need to extend your knowledge to the wider health and wellness fields that may be outside of your previous study or present expertise. However, extending your knowledge in this direction will broaden your scope of possibilities, and most definitely will be the natural progression and the direction you will need to take to accommodate the changes of progress.

The Anatomy of Learning by Terry Everitt Terry Everitt is perhaps one of the most qualified experts in Australia to discuss the value and means of investing in your ongoing education. In this thought-provoking article he brings a collection of thoughts and a perspective on the factors that necessitates your continued learning and your educational developments, and the value of engaging in lifelong learning for the purpose of your survival and wider recognition. The constant change in which we live and work in is not going to slow down, if anything, it will only continue to increase in pace. It is also true that learning is a daily process, and this process is usually informal and consists of a combination of seemingly random pieces of information that comes to us from various sources. This information helps us make sense of difficult situations and our reaction to them and possibly help us better understand them. You cannot begin to try and know everything, so how do you identify what is worth knowing in order to keep pace with your own needs for

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So where do you begin? Start exploring from the point of knowledge you currently have, and expand your understanding of perhaps business strategies, or even retail application. Dive deeper into the sciences, learn more about biology, anatomy and physiology or nutrition – all these will provide you with a greater understanding of what you do to the skin and what adjustments you can make to improve your results. It may even help give you greater insight as to how your procedures actually affect the body. A greater understanding of the effects of your applications will provide you with a much more meaningful experience each time you touch the skin.

Knowing how the interconnection of what you are doing topically is having an effect within the skin layers and structures – how your procedures affect the hormones or perhaps the nervous system, or the body as a whole, can give you a new perspective to how you deliver your treatments. Perhaps investigate different massage modalities and how these could be integrated into your practice, not only to provide additional value to your clients’ treatments, but also to improve your results and meet the demands of your clients’ increasing higher expectations. Maybe more information gained regarding psychology to better inform your dealings with clients or understanding of environmental issues, as the ‘greening’ of the industry has begun. Do you know the carbon footprint of your business or even your individual treatments? Going beyond Product Training Use education not only to add to the knowledge bank you possess, but also to integrate thinking into practice, while reinforcing forgotten or unused knowledge. While manufacturers and supplies of the equipment you use have provided you with training on the use of the equipment, this training is generally restricted to the correct use of the


machine and the mechanical application of procedures through prescribed steps. It will, however, be your responsibility to also seek objective education on the type and nature of technology so that you can fully understand the physics that govern these applications. This education will allow you to be better equipped to devise treatments based on sound scientific principles on how this technology will interact with the skin. Increasing your knowledge of the technology you will be using will allow you to be able to critically analyse their wider application through parameters that remain within safe and effective practice protocols. The changing needs of the consumer The needs of the world we live in are increasingly more sophisticated with complex needs resulting from consumers wanting responsive, individualised and accessible treatments in a creative and flexible service environment. The consumers’ appetite for higher-level results is stimulated by the media, Internet and magazines that flag the virtues of the various means of looking better and younger as now being the mainstream norm. To be (and to remain competitive) in this changing milieu, the development of what has been termed a ‘Knowledge Economy’ must become the personal responsibility of each practitioner, where the individual must be a repository of knowledge (and skills) beyond what is required just for daily survival. While observable behaviour (as skill, aptitude and attitude) is important, more important is the development of the knowledge to base reasoning behind the behaviour. In other words, know the reasons why you do what you do. Whatever you do must be constantly reviewed to accommodate the changes of progress. Your knowledge can no longer remain in a static position. You must be more productive in an increasingly competitive environment. This can be achieved in a number of ways, and perhaps the quickest is to be well-versed in multi-skilled learning. This is based on the combination of the knowledge and skills of the individual that empowers them to engage cognitive thought in how these multi levels of information and skills can come together for a more efficient application and end result. In other words, learning as much as you can on different subjects and then using this collective knowledge to form a new direction of that which is now possible. Why should your skills be recognised with formal qualifications? It is one thing to be skilled, but it is another to have qualifications. The Australian Government has a broad initiative of Skills Recognition, which acknowledges that people do have skills and knowledge that can be mapped against formal learning outcomes and people should be recognised for this ‘informal’ learning that has taken place.

Recognition of Prior Learning is the process where learning, no matter how gained, can be formally recognised. The beauty industry has the initial industry graduate training outlined in the nationally endorsed WRB04 Beauty Training Package. This provides seven qualifications at different levels, with the highest being a Diploma, consisting of 33 individual units of competency. This means that you could apply to a college that holds the status of a Registered Training Organisation (RTO) with the qualifications on their scope of registration. They can advise you on the application process to have what you already know mapped to the knowledge and skill requirements within the qualification. If you meet these requirements then you can be awarded the qualification via the recognition of the learning you have gained; most of which may have been outside of a classroom situation. The qualification gained is nationally recognised and transportable throughout Australia. The benefit of this is that you can upgrade your, perhaps, outdated qualifications to a new level of formally recognised qualification. This is particularly useful if you are an employee as many Wage Awards in various States are now mapped against these qualifications, which could translate to you receiving a pay increase. Additionally, if you wish to pursue further education through a university, being able to present an updated formal qualification may be the necessary stepping stone to allow you entry to further education. In response to the changing industry needs, the beauty training package is undergoing a continuous improvement process itself and a new version will soon be published, and at time of writing the code for this training package will be SIB09 (replacing the present WRB04). This is only one training package I have referred to; there are many others that are aligned to what you do – perhaps consider the Health, Community Services, Retail or Business, to name a few. Undertaking further studies through Accredited Courses There is also what is known as accredited courses that are also government recognised and sit outside of industry training packages; some relevant examples are in IPL for Hair Reduction and in Skin Rejuvenation, Courses in Safety and Clinical Applications using Intense Pulsed Light. Two examples of Advanced Diploma qualifications available are the Advanced Diploma of Spa (Management) and the Advanced Diploma of Health Science (Aesthetics). If university level is where your interest may lie, there are courses available within the wider aesthetic fields. Maybe gaining the Graduate Certificate in Management (Spa Operations) or perhaps the Associate Degree in Dermal Therapies could be your next move. There is a Bachelor of Health Science (Dermal Therapies) and even a Master of Wellness (which includes a Graduate Certificate and Diploma qualification) degree levels available. It may be that your work and life experience do not totally map to all the competencies required of the qualification; then a blend of recognition is undertaken and some ‘gap’ training may be required where you attend class (or undertake the study by distance) to meet all requirements. As each individual case is different, you will need to gain advice as to which qualification(s) is more appropriate, and the Registered Training Organisation or university providing the course can guide you with this.

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Ongoing lifelong learning constantly provides the linkage between what is known and what is not, by bringing knowledge from education distilled from various sources outside of the narrow confines of one sector of thought that can be adapted and formulated into new thought of how things can be accomplished. Knowledge allows conceptual thinking in bringing thought to application through possible new ways of viewing what you are doing so that results can be improved upon. With information changing so rapidly, any qualification is only as good as the currency of the knowledge gained on the date it was received. As information grows so the need for constant ongoing learning to better what you do and who you are for your clients, your industry, but more importantly for yourself. You never know what tomorrow will bring – perhaps another day like today, yet what if something does change? What skills and knowledge do you have that are easily recognised that can support you in a new environment where perhaps you are unknown, that you could find yourself in, often through no fault of your own. Ensure your information comes from credible sources As you become aware of the benefit of this publication and the Advisory Network that it is attached to, use the Network to gain further knowledge and skills beyond what you may think of in isolation of what you do. Elsewhere in this journal is news of the A5M conference, which is a wonderful way of gaining solid information from leaders in the field of wellness medicine. Although these are, in the main, medical professionals and while some of the information may go over your head, there will be more than enough that is understandable and can easily be used to build on your present knowledge. If total body wellness is an interest then this is a fantastic opportunity. If wellness is not your thing, then find something that is and research to identify and define what information may be gained that is of interest to you. While manufacturer and supplier-based information is useful and important, realise the information is used selectively aligned to their own purpose, which may not be the whole truth and nothing but the truth. As much as possible go for generic, scientific-based information to supplement the information gained from other sources. Be very careful about information gained from the web. Useful as much of it is, there is a lot of misinformation propagated via this medium. It matters not what your motivation is – perhaps it is to be a leader in your profession here in Australia, or indeed the actual world itself. Your motivation may be to better understand how your treatments affect the body, or how to increase your business knowledge for a greater market share or job security. Furthermore, perhaps the motivation is to be a better you. The important thing is to stay motivated in improving what you presently know. I think the greatest gift to yourself is the knowledge that you need to know more than what you presently know, and then of course to do something about it. The pursuit of knowledge will lead you securely into your future, while adding greater energy and enjoyment to the journey of understanding.

Terry Everitt is known as a Master Aesthetician in Advanced Clinician Aesthetics both in Australia and internationally, while also being a leading educationalist in the development of quality assured learning. Terry is also a consultant in legislative compliance requirements within the vocational education and training environment.


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salon business

Making Changes that will strengthen your Position by Paul Carbis I was recently chatting to one of my suppliers and in an attempt to keep them on their toes, I suggested that a change of product every couple of years was a good thing for salons. It gives staff a whole array of new information, skills and a renewed retail interest. It also gets clients excited about something new to try both in salon treatments and at home. Now I am the first to admit that swapping brands isn’t really as easy as all that, but it got me thinking that there is actually a lot of truth in what I said. The change can bring about renewed interest and excitement that should result in additional sales activity. (The best part was that the supplier actually offered me a better deal to stay loyal to them!) So I started to think about the sorts of changes that need to be considered by successful salon owners that will help maintain the interest of both staff and clients while keeping the turnover high. Let it be known The first and most obvious is the continual upgrading of skills required by staff in successful salons. Today’s patron is more aware about what is available in the world of beauty than ever before. There are television shows, radio programs, numerous magazines and countless news articles all devoted to the latest in beauty treatments, equipment and ingredients. This means that all staff need to be continually training in new products, equipment and techniques to stay ahead of the inquiries that consumers are demanding when they walk into our businesses. For example, it was only a few years ago that there was a debate about whether we should force staff to do Brazilian waxing. Now it is a corewaxing element. Not so long ago, many salons didn’t utilise specific salon software. Now I wouldn’t open a salon without it. A few years back microdermabrasion was the newest equipment on the market, now nearly every salon has at least one machine along with an IPL and LED light therapy. So if staff are upgrading their skills or qualifications it is important that you publish that your staff are undergoing such

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extensive training and re-skilling. Display certificates and include the information in your newsletters and literature. Updating your services Continually offering new equipment in your salon shows your clients that you are staying current and offering them the very latest in treatment options. Many of our clients are excited about the prospect of something new to try. Launch new equipment with special offers and information events. And it’s not just equipment. New products can be just as exciting. Especially now that we have access to some fabulous cosmeceutical brands that deliver results in the anti-ageing and antioxidant fields. I believe that every salon needs to include a cosmeceutical somewhere in their branding mix, especially when these brands are the ones getting all of the publicity. Basically, what we are doing is continually trying to raise the bar in terms of results to meet our clients’ expectations. It doesn’t take very long simply doing the same old treatments month after month before a client gets bored with both the treatment and the result and may look elsewhere for something more exciting. By introducing new elements into their treatment regime, both in salon treatments and home care, you maintain their enthusiasm in your salon and reinforce your role as their sole skincare solution provider. Other changes can include undertaking additional postgraduate courses that relate to the aesthetic industry. There are an extraordinary number of courses available for therapists to extend their knowledge base to meet with the challenges and demands of industry advancements and client expectations. These include: ! Advanced skin analysis training ! Qualifications in light-based therapies ! Marketing Qualifications


! !

Manual Lymphatic Drainage Bookkeeping

There are a number of university diplomas, degrees and also Masters Degree courses all in relevant spa and beauty fields available as face to face or distance learning. Even attending the various expos here in Australia or overseas and participating in their education programs will mean you return to your salon with newfound skills. A change to the way you sell retail or conduct a skin analysis, refined massage technique or product knowledge can result in a much better response by your clients. Consequently re-bookings, retail sales and up-selling all improve, putting dollars to the salon’s bottom line. Staff members gain new confidence and interest, which in turn should redeem better sales results. On the other hand your clients will also benefit from the newly acquired knowledge, better treatment selection and homecare products, which will equate to better loyalty and increased sales. As I visit salons around the country I am amazed at how many salon owners are reluctant to undertake additional training themselves despite having qualified over 10 years ago. At the very least you should be looking to upgrade to the current diploma that will be available later this year. But what is worse is when salon owners don’t insist that their staff should be continuously learning new skills. Whether it is training within staff meetings and staff training sessions in the salon, training provided by representatives of suppliers in your salon, product knowledge training or postgraduate courses, every therapist in this country should be exposed to several courses every year. In the UK therapists need to acquire a number of points from accredited training suppliers each year in order to maintain their registration. We are in one of the fastest changing and evolving industries on the planet and so many therapists are being left behind the advances in the industry by simply doing what they have always done. In a tough economic environment these salons are not going to attract new clients and will struggle to maintain their customer base as the public searches for the newest and the latest, as they are enticed by the results-driven publicity that they have been bombarded with by the media. Therefore keeping up with change makes good business sense. It is not necessary to introduce a new brand, nor is it necessary to buy expensive equipment, however, successful salons are constantly committed to keeping their clients excited and interested with new and improved results-driven changes. Let your clients know of impending changes with the view that it will create excitement and anticipation. Let them know how well trained you are, or what advanced skills you have gained for their benefit. The aim is to make sure they know that your salon is up-to-date with new advances, constantly improving and offering the latest in order for them to experience better results. They feel more confident in a salon where staff are well trained, new and exciting things are continually happening and they are being offered the very best to assist them in looking years younger and achieving beautiful skin. In today’s world, to stagnate and not change can be death to your business. Consider some business- improving changes for yourself, your staff and the benefit of your clients. Paul Carbis is considered one of the world’s most experienced and successful business coaches specialising in beauty salons and spas. He is a popular trainer at expos and conferences around the globe, a successful salon owner and Australia’s best-known consultant. Paul regularly tours the country visiting salons throughout Australia and offering easy to implement advice. If you would like to have Paul visit your business or purchase any of his business building CDs simply call on 0418 983 145 or email paulcarbis@bigpond.com

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supplier profile

A PIONEER OF PROGRESS Achievement doesn’t happen without commitment, passion and dedication and these are the exact qualities that characterise Luca Mora, principal of Vogue Image Group, a supply company for the aesthetic industry based in Marvern, Victoria, and the distributor of Skeyndor skincare and Sorisa high-tech equipment. Luca has a reputation second to none for working with some of the most advanced skincare and equipment technologies available on the global market. Her training can only be described as phenomenal as she teaches salons and clinics scientific protocols and procedures that deliver some of the highest levels of results this profession can boast about. Always forward thinking, Luca regularly travels overseas seeking the most advanced and progressive technologies to introduce to Australia, ensuring that salons and clinics meet with international standards and can deliver to their clients the very best the world has to offer. A quiet achiever, who is more satisfied with the success of others than the recognition of her own contribution, Luca is a sincere, gracious and incredibly generous individual who is helping lift the standards of this industry through the sharing of her knowledge and her expectation of excellence. We interviewed Luca to share with you both her roots and concepts on what is needed for this industry to continue to grow in reputation and recognition with consumers, while retaining its market share even through difficult economic times. APJ 1. Luca, how did you start in this industry and what is your company's business focus? LUCA: I originally trained in Hungary as an aesthetician, where the expectations from students who wanted to study in this profession were very high. The study requirements were rigorous and demanding and there was a great deal of science units in the curriculum. This was because aestheticians in Hungary work closely with the medical profession, and especially with dermatologists in the area of skin treatments.

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In Australia I worked with Vogue Image Group since 1988 and finally purchased the business in 2000. Since then we have seen many advances in the industry and having worked closely with many clinics and salons I have witnessed some incredible results in what can be achieved when quality skin products and equipment technology work correctly together. APJ 2. When analysing the skin, what is the most important consideration that needs to be addressed in order to achieve the best possible results in a facial treatment? LUCA: It is critical that the therapist takes the necessary time to conduct a thorough professional analysis of the skin and come to her own conclusions. By all means we must ask the clients for their feedback as to what are their concerns, however, it is the therapist’s responsibility to determine what is happening on and in the skin. The issue of the overall health and function of the skin must be considered with particular emphasis on determining the dehydration levels of the skin as the first and foremost consideration that must be addressed, as unless the skin is correctly hydrated, the treatments that follow may be compromised. The Skeyndor Aquatherm range offers excellent products that are mineral-rich and able to rebalance and optimise the skin’s hydration levels. Once this issue is addressed we can focus on other concerns such as wrinkles, texture and tone. APJ 3. Luca, you are respected in the industry for your depth of knowledge and your commitment to training and education. What new developments have you experienced in the past five years that can help an aesthetician to achieve further breakthroughs in terms of progressively higher levels of treatment results? LUCA: In recent years the availability of high-grade antioxidants that are formulated to include more efficient delivery systems means that we can now perform treatments that can offer our clients immediate and long-lasting results. New advancements in formulations now means that we have access to micronised and nano-technologies that allow better penetration of active ingredients into the skin and therefore give a much better result than previously possible.


Nano-liposomes from plant stem cells are another exciting breakthrough. SKEYNDOR’s ETERNAL line was the first to bring this technology to Australia. Swiss studies have identified the incredible regenerative capabilities of stem cells extracted from a unique variety of apple known as the Uttwiler Spatlauber. The internal fluid of these plant cells contains components that help to protect and maintain the function of the human skin cells. It is believed that the stem cells of this species of apple contain metabolites that are responsible for the longevity of the fruit. These metabolites are now harnessed to also ensure longevity of the skin cells and defend them against chronological ageing. The Skeyndor’s Eternal Line offers not only retail products, but also a clinical-strength salon treatment range with the recommendation of a course of four treatments delivered over a four-week period. APJ 4. What new equipment technologies have come into the market and what results do they promise? LUCA: More and more we are seeing numerous studies that support the credibility of light-based technologies and as a result we will continue to see them dominating the market. As much as laser and IPL offer great results, they are quite invasive and require extensive training to ensure their safe application. On the other hand, the virtues of LED (Light Emitting Diodes) have come to the forefront, with scientific research confirming their positive benefits in terms of cell stimulation and renewal. LED offers light-based therapy that is non-ablative and easier to use with less risk. SORISA’s LED technology offers pre-programmed treatments through an advanced head that allows you to change light colours automatically, for their different benefits, without having to replace the heads for each colour. Additionally, they have an excellent clear conductor mask to be applied to the face under the LED light to further enhance treatment results. During the past five years we have seen other technologies such as Electroporation being introduced into the aesthetic domain. Electroporation was first introduced in the 70s when a group of dermatologists in the US discovered it by applying an intense electrical impulse for a short time at an adequate wavelength. The consequence of this action was a change in polarisation of the cellular membrane that could be used to promote a kind of cellular “pulsation”. In fact, after the initial shock, the polarity it conveyed is immediate reversed and production of electrolysis is avoided. What this means is that changes to the cells are temporary, just enough to allow treatment-strength products to be introduced transdermally without the normal skin resistance, with the cells returning to their normal structure. In medicine, the advantage of the temporary activity is that it opens intercellular channels through which substances can pass into the skin. This method was successfully used in the transdermal treatment of melanomas. Having this technology available to us now in the aesthetic domain means that we can more effectively introduce substances transepidermally into the skin. Ultrasound is another proven technology. Ultrasound has been used for cosmetic purposes since the early 1980s. Ultrasonic sound waves are at a frequency of more than 20,000HZ and are not heard by the human ear. Clinical ultrasound units being manufactured typically deliver ultrasound frequencies of 1 and 3 Mhz, with duty cycles ranging from

20 to 100 per cent. Duty cycles less than 100 per cent are usually termed pulsed ultrasound, while a 100% duty cycle is referred to as continuous ultrasound. For skincare, most machines are created at 1MHz with continuous and pulsed frequencies. In aesthetic care ultrasonic sound waves stimulate body cells. The tiny massage it produces expands the space in which the cells exist, causing movement of cytoplasm, the rotation of mitochondria, and the vibration of the cell nucleus stimulates and expands the cell membrane. This improves local blood and lymph circulation, and enhances product penetration and skin tone. Ultrasound units used in aesthetics improve cell metabolism and regeneration. SORISA manufactures a device call DERMASONIC using ultrasound and vacuum suction to address cellulite conditions. In this case the ultrasound can break down the fibrosis associated with cellulite, by fluidifying interstitial fluid that has become dense, which needs to be eliminated as this gel-like substance is full of toxins. Fibrosis occurs when this sticky fluid promotes the build-up of fat cells under the skin. The mechanical action of the ultrasound targets the cellulite nodules breaking them down and assisting in the elimination of toxins of the trapped interstitial fluids through the lymphatic system and blood circulation. This treatment requires follow-up homecare products to support the results. To successfully treat cellulite for long-term results we also recommend the use of PRESSOR03. This device addresses lymphatic drainage in a more comprehensive way for long-term results. These and other protocols are used within our training to deliver tangible and long-lasting results. One of the most phenomenal breakthroughs in equipment technology that we have just introduced into the Australian market is the SORISA SKINLIGHT — a multifunctional device that incorporates several technologies, including a d i a m o n d t i p p e d MICRODERMABRASION using various size heads for different applications, LED light and ELECTROPORATION. The LED light is enhanced by a special mask and this procedure can be combined with Electroporation so that the two technologies can work simultaneously together for further product penetration. This enables the skin to benefit from this synergistic combination of currents. The Skinlight also offers a LYMPHATIC DRAINAGE application for improved skin detoxification, as well as CRYOTHERAPY. Cryotherapy offers facial firming and lifting benefits and its contracting action also further assists in pushing products into the deeper layers of the skin. Combined in the Skinlight is also a unique feature, which is the SKIN TESTER. This enables the therapist to objectively measure the results that have been achieved at the end of the treatment. These results can be documented by the therapist and also presented to the client to view for themselves – all this through the one unit. How incredible is that?

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APJ 5. Can you explain to us and give us examples of how products, technologies and techniques can work together to provide better and longer-lasting results? LUCA: As aestheticians we work very much with the physiology of the skin and body. We attempt to excite and stimulate cells both in the skin and in the muscles. If you are really looking for the kind of results that consumers now expect you cannot achieve this through a singlepronged approach. You must effectively determine what products to combine with what equipment. You then need to go one step further to consider how various equipment can offer you a variety of functions that can further enhance the skin’s response to these treatments to achieve a more youthful appearance. Our products and equipment represent a new phase in protocols that can be adapted to the baby boomers and beyond. Merging cutting edge technologies in both devices and topical products means that we can more efficiently address the multiple issues of serious skin and body care through a synergistic approach.   Partnering the advances in technology from SORISA (equipment) with SKEYNDOR (skincare) means that we can offer very effective non-invasive treatments to dramatically improve the appearance of the skin.  This collaborative approach of skincare and equipment means that clients can experience a number of technologies in a single session for results that are immediate and significant. As mentioned above, these include Plant Stem Cells, using active components of apple stem cells to help protect and maintain the function of human stem cells, and the new LED photomodulation therapy that uses multiple wavelengths to rejuvenate. Furthermore, Mesoscience where a hand-held device is used to deliver concentrated ingredients at a deeper level. All this can be achieved now in just one treatment. APJ 6. Most therapists can provide some excellent results with skin improvement, but what about firming of the features and muscle toning? What technologies can offer benefits in strengthening muscle tone and how important is this in minimising lines and wrinkles and in creating a more youthful appearance?

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LUCA: Advances in equipment technology give aestheticians many options when it comes to tightening, toning and lifting slackened facial muscles. One of the latest is the Skeyndor Mesoscience Lift Procedure (which is the no-needle Mesotherapy). This breakthrough treatment also uses Electroporation and Cryotherapy delivering microscopic quantities of potent and concentrated actives at a cellular level, achieving significant and cumulative results that are visible from the first session. Another proven tool is the Sorisa Lifting C Automatic Face Lifting, which utilises microcurrents for skin and muscle stimulation, and the Belex 08. The Belex 08 also offers two extra functions – a gentle passive contraction of muscles or a more intensive muscle contraction, much like a workout for the face. With the popularity of body firming (toning), one of the most effective machines is the Sorisa BODYTER. This device is highly popular in Japan where it is widely used for muscle toning. Men are taking advantage of this treatment since they work around the clock and do not have time to exercise. It offers excellent results in strengthening muscles without spending hours in the gym. This device incorporates seven different currents, including bi-polar interferential currents, Russian Kotz, lipolitic currents and infrared currents etc. Sorisa Bodyter is TGA included as a therapeutic device. APJ 7. From your interaction with numerous salons, what areas of education do you believe are the weakest that needs to be upgraded? LUCA: There is a need for aestheticians to upgrade their knowledge of the skin so that they can take the correct course of action following diagnosis. Wi t h t e c h n o l o g y moving at such a rapid pace and an abundance of b r e a k t h r o u g h formulations available, a facial is no longer just a


matter of a soothing, relaxing treatment for ‘a blossom in the cheeks’. Aestheticians need to be able to investigate at a more scientific level and become familiar and comfortable to incorporate the latest in equipment and scientific products to achieve the new expected levels of results for their clients. APJ 8. To survive in this economic climate what changes do you believe must happen for salons to maintain their credibility and to grow their client base? LUCA: Here are some areas you should examine and focus on, to ensure you continue to survive and prosper: ! Treasure your clients and give the gold standard service on a consistent basis. During difficult economic times they have to perceive you as progressing and growing in your knowledge so that you are offering a constantly improved level of results. This is not the time to stagnate in your knowledge as they will easily tire and your service will be the first to go. ! Make your client feel as though she is the only person in the world, during each and every visit — no excuses. ! Be the expert in your field. The more you know about new developments the easier it will be to deliver the best. To maintain excellence in what you do keep up with advancements in the industry and make the most of further training, workshops and seminars. This translates to delivering the best possible treatment to the client. ! To ensure your clients stay with you, put yourself in their shoes. You can set your business apart from the competition by asking yourself ‘what are my expectations?’ A happy client means more happy clients. ! The appearance of your business says a lot about you and your staff, so be scrupulous – treatment areas, towels, robes, stations, windows, retail shelves, floors,etc. ! Always be ready to try something new. Market services that not only help clients look good and feel good, but that also help target stress. ! Educate your clients on the value their treatments by maintaining their skin between visits through clinical-strength products you will recommend to them. At the same time discuss other issues that reflect in the skin such lifestyle, diet, fitness etc. ! Target multiple generations from teens to baby boomers to seniors. ! An economy that is in downturn does not mean that your clients will forgo their treatments, but it may be that they will look for more cost-effective options. Offer them added value by packaging a series of treatments as more cost-effective solutions. ! Keep up the sampling of new products and Luca Mora reward clients who refer. Luca Mora can be contacted at Vogue Image Group Ph: 03 9821 0033 or email: info@vogueimage.com.au for further information on SKEYNDOR skincare or SORISA Equipment.

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regulations Is it Cosmetic or Medical? At the outset, it is important to understand the distinction between cosmetic procedures and therapeutic/medical procedures. Essentially, cosmetic procedures cover up or change the appearance without actually doing anything to the body/skin, whereas therapeutic/ medical procedures actually do something to the body. So, for example, changing the appearance of wrinkles by covering them up or filling the spaces between them is cosmetic, but actually doing something to change the wrinkles is medical. Anything that causes a change to body tissues such as pigmentation lightening, fat or wrinkle removal etc is a medical product and must have regulatory approval from the Therapeutic Goods Administration (TGA). The TGA is Australia’s regulatory body for medical products in the same way that the FDA is for the USA. Other countries such as Canada, EU and Japan also have regulatory controls on medical products.

The Regulation of Aesthetic Products in Australia by Dr Derrick R. Beech MSc, PhD, CChem, CSci, FRSC Part of your obligation as a practitioner or supplier is to abide by regulatory requirements when using or importing products into Australia. It is important to understand that every country is different in terms of what is and what is not permitted to be said about a product, be it skincare or equipment. Australia, on the other hand, differs extensively from other countries in its requirements, and so it is important to ensure that you comply with Australian regulatory standards and not those set out by other countries. Dr Derrick Beech is considered as Australia’s foremost authority in this area, having created and directed medical device regulations at the Therapeutic Goods Administration for over 10 years and for a period of time was also in charge of the entire TGA. His article clarifies some important issues with regards to what regulations govern Australia. APJ 42

Aesthetic Medical Technologies Technologies that are promoted for aesthetic improvement have only relatively recently been available for use in facilities that are not under the direct control of a medically qualified person. For example, there are a variety of light-energy modalities for ablative and non-ablative treatment of the skin surface (e.g., removal of pigmented lesions, acne, psoriasis, wrinkles, tattoos, hair). They include technologies such as fluorescent light generators, pulsed UVB light generators, intense pulsed light, longpulsed Nd:YAG lasers, and Qswitched Nd:YAG lasers, together with dedicated applicators (handpieces) that are used to apply the different energies to the surface of the skin. Also there are systems that result in skin tightening by subdermal radiofrequency heating and new technologies are continually being introduced. Medical Device Regulations Anyone who imports into, or manufactures, medical devices for supply in Australia must seek approval to do so from the TGA (see w w w. t g a . g o v. a u ) . T h e T G A implements the Therapeutic Goods Act (1989) and its associated regulations. This legislation has provisions to prevent supply, recall products and pursue penalties for noncompliance.


The regulatory system radically changed in Oct 2002 into one that is harmonised with that of the EU and Canada. Before then, medical devices were subject to two levels of regulation – listed (straightforward process for most devices) and registered (a high level of regulation for a few high-risk devices). Now there is only one category of ‘included’ device and all must have been subjected to ‘conformity assessment’. What this means in practice is that for imported products, conformity to the regulations can be established by the provision of a CE mark from an EU Notified Body (organisations approved by the EU to provide regulatory approval (CE mark) for the EU). If the device does not have CE marking or is manufactured in Australia then the conformity assessment must be undertaken by TGA. For an imported CE marked device there is an application process, which takes a few weeks and involves submission of the CE certificate to TGA with associated information and a relatively modest fee. Conformity assessment, on the other hand, can take many months and involve submission of substantial information and payment of substantial fees. If you import or manufacture a medical device for supply in Australia then you must have your product on the Australian Register of Therapeutic Goods (ARTG) via the TGA. The items on this Register can be found via the Internet at https://www.tgasime.health.gov.au /SIME/ARTG/ARTGPublicWeb.nsf?OpenDatabase. Skin Creams Cosmetic skin products cannot make claims to, for example, calm irritation, fade pigmented areas, treat acne, stimulate collagen growth. Furthermore, products claiming to be primarily sunscreens must have TGA approval. There is no similar requirement overseas therefore it is virtually impossible to meet TGA’s requirements for imported sunscreens.

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the patient may result in injury, as they may not have been properly checked to ensure that they operate safely.

Overseas, such as in the USA or EU, it is common for manufacturers of skin creams to make wide-ranging therapeutic claims. In Australia, such claims are much more vigorously and effectively policed by the TGA and by the National Industrial Chemicals Notification and Assessment Scheme (NICNAS).

Importation of skin creams with banned ingredients or non-compliant labelling/brochures may result in prosecution and/or a ban on importation.

NICNAS (see www.NICNAS.gov.au) is the regulator for cosmetics, but TGA becomes involved if therapeutic claims are made.

Summary If you are using or supplying products that actually do, or claim to do, something to change the anatomy or physiology of a person then it is a medical product and requires approval by the TGA.

It is also important to ensure that ingredients are not in the Standard Uniform Schedule of Drugs and Poisons (SUSDP). For example, hydroquinone and its derivatives are prescription only for dermal use, so this means that Arbutin, sometimes referred to a Bear Berry extract, is not permitted in retail skin creams as it is a derivative of hydroquinone. Arbutin is widely available overseas.

If you would like to find out more about your particular product or have yours included in the Australian Register of Therapeutic Goods please contact the author of this article on 02 9552 2229 or dbeech@medicaltechnology.com.au.

Risks If you do not comply with the regulatory requirements for medical products, you run a significant business and personal risk. The primary reason for the TGA’s regulatory system is to ensure that medical products supplied in Australia are safe and efficacious. Not only are you at risk of financial loss and legal penalties, but if any harm is caused to the patient then your insurance may be void if you are supplying the product illegally. If you purchase treatment equipment from a company within Australia it is important that you seek confirmation that it is included on the ARTG by asking to see the ARTG inclusion certificate. If you import directly from overseas or manufacture in Australia, the responsibility for regulatory approval with TGA lies with you.

Dr Derrick R. Beech, MSc, PhD, CChem, CSci, FRSC, has been a consultant in medical product regulatory affairs for over 10 years. He created and directed medical device regulation at the Therapeutic Goods Administration for over 10 years prior to becoming a consultant and was, for a period of time, in charge of the entire TGA. Please see www.medicaltechnology.com. au for further details.

The regulations are in place to protect the consumer. The use of unapproved medical devices that are applying high-energy radiation to

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LED Light for Skin Theraphy

Conditions within the Aesthetic Industry have never been more dynamic and the industry has seen tremendous change in the last five years or so. However, dynamics apart, the bottom line has not changed as clients demand results. And, while they may be prepared to stick with a product, treatment or treatment regimen for a period of time to achieve results, they do so with the expectancy that you (the therapist) have fully researched the products and equipment that you are using, promoting and recommending. Your clients are relying on (and paying for) your expertise, experience and knowledge, and they expect you to keep abreast of the times. It would be no different if you were, say, a car mechanic or dentist. Like both these industries the aesthetics industry is continually bombarded with new technology, products and techniques, and it’s your job to do the research. So, where do you get your information? A good starting point would be a reputable supplier who is interested in educating you in the use of the products or equipment that they offer and not just interested in taking your money. Then, go to trade publications and magazines, trade shows and seminars and industry associations. Let’s be a bit more specific. As a major supplier of equipment to both the overseas and Australian aesthetics and cosmetic industries, Body Clinic (Australia) is heavily committed to supplying equipment and proven technology that has been fully researched (ie. it actually works, does what it says it does and delivers results). In that way they can provide you, the therapist, with enough education and training to utilise the technology to its full capabilities. You must demand the same from your suppliers as your client demands from you. After all you are the frontline. In our current portfolio of equipment the Bio-Synthesis™ Light System best conveys and defines the appearance and attitude of today’s beauty consumer — the therapist/aesthetician. Light therapy (using LED – Light Emitting Diodes) has been around for about four years in this industry. However, it is only since 2005 that the results of studies conducted by N.A.S.A. have been published. These studies were in respect of light therapy and the effect on plants (in order to provide a sustainable source of food).. The study also looked at the acceleration of the healing process (where prolonged exposure to macro-gravity may otherwise retard healing in Space Stations). Bio-Therapeutic (manufacturers of the Bio-Synthesis™) have used the N.A.S.A. study results to produce a LED light therapy system that utilises state-of-the art technology and treatment protocols. The BioSynthesis™ takes 6.5 minutes to achieve the critical 126j/cm² per colour, per treatment required for LED light therapy to be effective.

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One 20-minute session on the Bio-Synthesis™ is equivalent to the three 20-minute sessions that many other similar equipment require to deliver effective results. Determining the effectiveness of a particular LED light therapy system is simple – but only if you know the right questions to ask. This is where your research starts and for this you now need some technical information. The effectiveness of a system is determined by the following factors and will dictate the treatment time and the number of treatments required per week: 1. Number of LEDs in the treatment head (the greater the number the better) 2. Total size of the treatment area covered at the same time in either mm or cm² (the greater the better) 3. Whether or not the head rotates backwards and forwards or remains in a static position (if the head is not static then the LED light source is not constant, therefore increasing the amount of time it takes to achieve the critical 126j/cm²) 4. Output intensity of the system in mW/cm² (the higher the output intensity the more powerful the system) 5. Pulsing? Is the system able to pulse the light and utilise the latest treatment protocols for maximum results? A good equipment supplier will have answers to all of these questions. The N.A.S.A. studies also show that the skin more readily absorbs and utilises an LED light source if the light is sent in packets of photons (in layman’s terms, ‘pulsed’ on and off) at specific intervals. In other words, the skin cell is much like the brain – it absorbs, utilises and retains things in ‘bite-ize chunks’. Studies also showed that only four colours of the spectrum (red, yellow, green and blue) had any real, measurable beneficial effect on the human skin. So how does LED light therapy rejuvenation differ from that of IPL or Laser? Here is a brief comparison: ! LED light therapy offers a more complete coverage for a longer period of time. Treatment head sizes are around 218cm² (dependent of course on the system) whereas, typically, the treatment head size of a laser/IPL is around 2cm². ! LED light therapy stimulates the cell for a longer period of time – typically anywhere from 10 minutes upwards depending on the output intensity of the system — whereas with laser/IPL the cell is only stimulated for a fraction of a second. ! LED light therapy offers completely hands-free operation, whereas laser/IPL rejuvenation treatments are highly labour intensive. ! LED light therapy works to rebuild the skin, whereas laser/IPL works through the principles of destroying to rebuild. ! LED light therapy is non-thermal, non-ablative, non-invasive. No infra-red or ultraviolet light is used and, unlike lasers/IPL, offers immediate results with virtually zero ‘post-treatment problems’. ! With most LED light therapy systems staff can be fully trained and operational in four hours. Whereas with laser/IPL training is far more intensive and over a longer period of time, thus the system is not fully operational immediately (unless, of course, such training had been previously undertaken prior to delivery). And finally, no licence is required to use LED light therapy equipment, neither does a laser safety officer need to be on the premises – because it’s not a laser! So, having read this you have already begun your research into one aspect of modern aesthetic equipment – LED light rejuvenation. The rest is up to you! Article submitted by Paula Frewin of Body Clinic Australia. For further information phone 07 3822 6606.


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Equipment for the progressive therapist Body Clinic (Australia) Pty Ltd 27 Chesterfield Crescent Wellington Point Qld 4160 Telephone: (07) 3822 6606 E-mail: bodyclinic@bigpond.com

Body clinic.indd 1

11/3/09 10:46:59 AM


salon business

The Psychology of Positive Human Contact Developing the skills that build client loyalty by Rod Jones

How often have we been in a social environment with friends and family and heard someone complain about their dealings with a certain business. They will go to lengths to point out what went wrong in the transaction, yet in almost all occasions they were not prepared to discuss their complaint or air their frustration with the business proprietor, therefore not allowing them to rectify the situation or change for the better. My hope for you is to enable your client to become your ambassador and not your nemesis.

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Clients are the number one requirement for any business to become successful; as such, they are a resource to be looked after. Most businesses will die or grow, depending on how well they manage this one issue. Most will spend time, effort and money to attract clients to their doors, but spend little time or effort in making sure that when they have secured a client they also work on making them loyal to them. People do not buy on price alone and the products and services you have can be obtained from other sources, therefore it is vital that your clients perceive that they are looked after and that they are receiving


the best value for their money. We all know that it is far cheaper to keep a client than to secure a new one, particularly in difficult times. So what can we do to ensure that our clients will be prepared to not only continually use our business, but also most importantly, act as your greatest form of advertising and recommend us to other people? The short answer to this question is to create an atmosphere that makes your client feel at peace in their dealings with you. Think back on an enjoyable moment in your life. Can you remember all the finer points? Most likely you will not. However, you will remember how you felt and it is those emotions that will allow you to relive that moment, regardless of the time that has expired since. In the same way a song can bring back memories and feelings of past moments in our lives and will allow us to relive the feelings of that experience and time. To create the atmosphere that can stimulate feelings and make a customer feel good about their interaction with you requires a number of different elements to come together. Here are some steps to consider: Self-Preparation Being prepared for the day doesn’t just mean our grooming, but also our attitude. We have heard the saying “Attitude creates Altitude”. Never has this been more relevant than in the service industry. Clients pick up attitudes, especially when you are working closely with them as you do as an aesthetician. These will either draw them closer to you through trust or drive them away. Being human, we all deal with people and issues on a daily basis that could provoke us to experience negative feelings. These will cause us to either deal with them in a passive way (where we let it be, and hope it will sort itself) or aggressively (where we get angry and attack and cause more problems to deal with). I have found that if we deal with our personal issues in an assertive manner, by explaining how we feel about what is happening and communicating what we would like to see happen, we can resolve issues and stop worrying. Alternatively, if matters are left unresolved they could lead us to becoming self-absorbed and easily distracted. As a result, clients could register and interpret our attitudes as cold and indifferent to them. If we are consistent in pursuing a positive mood, the attitude we have will help create the right atmosphere for our client to trust and have confidence in us. Engaging the Client Most people are normally shy and conservative, so by initiating communication with your client two things will happen - you will find out information and you will develop a relationship. The classic mistake when dealing with our customers is to assume what they need - this is the biggest mistake as no two persons are the same. The way we get to know our client is to ask them questions. Questions can be personal, professional, open or closed. Asking questions does not come easy and for most of us it takes a change of attitude. This is because often since we were a child the ability to ask questions have been beaten out of us, by either peer pressure, ridicule or time restraints. As a child all we did was ask questions and as a result we discovered our world. So why ask questions and what do we want to achieve by this? The aim should be to discover who our client really is and what are their perceived needs. In other words what is important to them. I have told my staff in the past that there are no dumb questions, only

inadequate answers. Never quickly judge a person. If you do not understand where your customer is coming from, just ask more questions. Create positive feelings People love to talk about their favourite subject THEMSELVES. So when communicating with your client ask questions about what they have been doing since you last met. If in the past they have told you about a certain event they were attending, show interest and ask them how it went. Get you customer to speak to you about themselves as this will give you insight as to what they appreciate and what is important to them. The more they reveal about their life to you the more they will trust you and consider your recommendations as well. Another area to consider is your body language when listening to them. Your clients will reveal more to you if you guide them with simple things such as nodding your head, smiling and maintaining where possible eye contact. This will indicate to them that you are involved with them and allow them to feel safe in communicating with you. If a person reveals to you a high point about their life ask them how did they feel? As they share this with you it will allow them to relive the emotion of that event or moment. This will bring back the same feelings they experienced at the time, and sharing these feelings with you will lead your client to enjoying their experience with you. Most of us in this modern world are time poor, and as a result we all get annoyed when waiting for someone who is running late. We start to get frustrated. So how do you deal with the issue if you are late with taking a client on time for their appointment? Resist the need to apologise. It is better to thank your client for their patience and waiting rather than say you’re sorry for the delay. In most instances the reason for the delay is not your fault and by apologising the client sees the reason for the delay as being your fault. When we apologise it makes the customer feel as if they have been deprived, and as a result they will start to experience negative thoughts and doubt your ability to meet their needs. Once a negative feeling is planted, even if our service has been good they may still be persuaded to seek elsewhere for a more positive experience. When you thank your client it is a form of praise, and as such, that person starts to feel good about themselves. They believe that you see them as a person of substance and as such their experience with you will be enhanced. All people want to be accepted and praise is the highest form of acceptance. In Summary It takes lots of practice for a person to freely operate in the skills mentioned above. One way that I recommend to staff to become competent in these skills is to exercise some of these approaches daily with their social circle, family and friends. Once you have these people skills, not only will it become easier to maintain client loyalty, but also your own life will become enriched and more meaningful.

Rodney Jones has extensive experience in the banking and finance sector as well as a presenter in investment property seminars. He is a fully licensed real estate agent and also a partner in an interior lining business. Rodney has extensive experience in staff development and training, specialising in customer service and sales success. He has formulated successful training methods and delivered this training to a staff workforce of over 40 to achieve targets and build client loyalty.

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apan benefits means it starts from 1 July 2009 to 30 June 2010. If you have joined prior to this date the extra period will be given to you for free. With APAN you determine what level of membership you join, depending on the level of support you believe will benefit you. Our research has confirmed that many within the industry are looking for a more comprehensive level of support and so we have introduced MENTORING services within your membership, which are unique to our organisation. The number of sessions that your receive as part of your membership will vary from level to level and you decide the level that will best suit you.

HOW DOES MENTORING WORK?

CTI PRA TION

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1. IDENTIFY YOUR CONCERN – Write your concerns on a pad. You may have one concern that you are seeking answers for, or you may have several. Write them all down prior to your mentoring session.

S ER

APAN

STHETI AE C

To get the best out of your MENTORING this is what you are required to do:

E I S O RY N

AESTHETICS PRACTITIONERS ADVISORY NETWORK PTY LTD ACN 136 987 169 ABN 25 136 987 169

As an aesthetic practitioner, business owner or product supplier you can benefit from the support and expert advice of an industry advisory body when a difficult situation arises or when you are at a crossroad of how to address a concern. APAN is committed to providing a new level of personalised and diverse services to support your progress and development at every level. We are offering services that are vital to your success and unique to our organisation. Membership is open all sectors of the aesthetic industry and you can choose to join at the level of service that will best suit your needs. The annual joining fees start from $110 to $350 so it can meet every need and budget, and membership is calculated on the financial year, which

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2. BOOK YOUR APPOINTMENT – Phone or email APAN to book a time with a mentor that will suit both you and them. If you are sending an email and feel comfortable to itemise your questions in the email please do so. This will allow the mentor to come prepared with the answers you are looking for.

3. COME PREPARED – Your MENTORING session will give you access to an expert on a one-on-one basis for up to 30 minutes, so come prepared with pen and pad to take notes and record the information you are seeking. 4. COSTS – The number of Mentoring sessions you are entitled to will be identified in the various levels of membership. They are included as part of your membership, so there are no extra costs. If the phone call cost is a concern, we are happy to call you back on your land-line, so you will not incur any phone charges. The purpose of these Mentoring sessions is to give you the opportunity to discuss your needs and concerns with an industry representative for


an objective expert opinion. We are here to help you identify options and solutions. However, for any financial or legal matters we recommend that you seek the advice of your accountant, solicitor or registered financial advisers prior to making any final decisions.

TOPICS WE CAN ASSIST YOU WITH If you are not sure what areas we can assist you with please review this list below and see if any of these areas can be of benefit to you. The list below is only a brief outline of major categories: ! Wages and employment agreements ! Identifying quality suppliers of skincare and equipment ! Staffing agreements and concerns ! Client disputes ! Professional and business ethics ! Health Regulations ! Educational direction and training options ! Suppliers of marketing and stationery items ! Services providers – insurance, merchant banking

APAN CONFERENCES APAN is currently negotiating strategic alliances with other organisations that will benefit its members. We want to bring new innovations to the industry that will support and strengthen the industry to continually advance in education and business strategies. Membership will also entitle you to very generous discounts for all conferences staged exclusively by APAN, as well as all products developed by APAN. As a goodwill gesture to the industry we are pleased to announce that we have negotiated special rates for all who receive this launch issue of the AESTHETICS PRACTITIONERS JOURNAL to attend the AustralAsian Anti-Ageing & Aesthetic Medicine Conference. This event will be held in Melbourne on the 3-4 October 2009. A5M have generously accepted to offer a 10% discount to all our readers who have received this publication by quoting the special Code No. (see pages 67 for further details).

E-NEWSLETTER As of August 2009 we will be launching our E-Newsletter, which will

The Value

at special member prices, lots of marketing products, postcards and gift vouchers of the highest quality to help your business grow.

OTHER MEMBERSHIP BENEFITS MERCHANT BANKING - As an organisation APAN will negotiate Discount Corporate Rates with various institutions on behalf of its members. They will also carefully examine that the products and services they negotiate will offer the best quality at the lowest possible rates. We have negotiated some extremely good rates for our

& Benefits of APAN Membership

be emailed to our members on a regular basis. This newsletter will not only include news and information, but also a great deal of educational tips that will allow you to polish up on your professional communication with your clients. The objective is to constantly bring to your attention information that will motivate you, refine your knowledge and build your professional confidence.

WEBSITE As a member you will also be able to access several resources on our website www.apanetwork.com. We plan to introduce live interviews of an educational nature, and a members-only Chat Room where you can discuss different topics with other colleagues around Australia. A moderator will strictly monitor this site to ensure that only quality information is presented. Only members will be allowed to leave messages.

members with the Commonwealth Bank for Credit Card facilities and Merchant Banking. INSURANCE –We have also approached several insurance companies to identify the best broad cover insurance facility at a members’ discount price for our members and delivered with the best possible service. All this information will be included in your membership kit when you join. ON-GOING SUPPORT – As an APAN member you are not limited to only accessing support through mentoring sessions. You can phone within working hours as often as you wish for a quick enquiry or a phone number. Our aim is to be known for excellence in service. Even if we do not have an answer to your concerns, we will make every effort to provide you with the information you requested as quickly as possible.

MERCHANDISING APAN will also be developing a comprehensive range of merchandising items to provide you with quality products at members’ discount prices. We will also be including such things as Business Starter Packs (Letterheads, Compliment Slips and Appointment pads)

RECOMMENDATIONS As a member, we value your opinion, so please forward your suggestions to us by email. These will help us to determine what the industry needs so that we can help in a real and tangible way.

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ORGANISATIONAL STRUCTURE AND GOVERNANCE APAN will invest a great deal of time and resources to researching changes and needs within the industry. It will negotiate with Government and regulatory bodies and filter valuable information back to the industry. When necessary APAN will lobby for industry needs forming strong and credible alliances that will benefit the industry. As an organisation, APAN will demonstrate the value of networking by example, and show you ways of engaging others to support your growth and success.

As an organisation APAN will demo n s tr ate the value of networking by example, and show you ways of engaging others to support your growth and success. PLATINUM MEMBERSHIP

Structurally, APAN Will Be Governed As Follows: MANAGEMENT BOARD – This board will determine operational procedures of the organisation and set goals and establish the development of initiatives for the benefit of the members. NATIONAL ADVISORY COUNCIL – This council will consist of credible, highly skilled and qualified individuals from diverse areas of expertise, who are leaders in their field. Their task will be to review the needs of the industry and put forward proposals, working models and recommendations to the Management Board for their consideration and implementation. Currently, we have some highly qualified people from the educational sector, international business sector and government who have accepted to be on this council. A full profile of the National Advisory Council members will be presented to you in our next journal and in our newsletter in early August. STATE ADVISORY REPRESENTATIVES – Each State will have a local APAN Representative who will be responsible for forwarding valuable information about their State to Head Office. They will also be responsible to make recommendations for valuable networking opportunities to assist business and professional development in their State. We are currently reviewing applicants for these positions. If you would like to be considered for this position please contact us with your intentions of interest so that we can send you a copy of our Statement Representative Agreement for your review and consideration.

NETWORKING OPPORTUNITIES Over the next few months APAN will explore new initiatives with the view of introducing networking opportunities to help members grow their circle of influence and reach new markets. One such initiative is to help you gain strategies on how to attract and gain profession and business people as your clients ( see article “How to Win the Corporate Client” on pages 22-24). To determine what membership classification will best suit you here are the different membership levels and what they offer:

APAN MEMBERSHIP CLASSIFICATIONS APAN GOLD MEMBERSHIP – FULL MEMBER This membership entitles you to: ! Four mentoring sessions of up to 30 minutes per session ! General enquiries unlimited e.g. requesting a phone number etc. ! 12 Months subscription to the AESTHETICS PRACTITIONERS JOURNAL ! Registration to Members’ Only Website Network Centre ! E-Newsletter with regular important information ! Access to web-based business and professional development programs ! 10% discount on all merchandising ! 50% discount on all Conferences staged by APAN ! Access to Members Only Exclusive Specials Membership fee: $295 per year.

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This category is not purchased. If you are a Gold Member you are invited to submit your qualifications for assessment and apply for an upgrade to PLATINUM MEMBERSHIP for a once only administration fee of $55. This classification is limited to highly qualified practitioners. Diploma and above qualifications in aesthetics as well as specialised practitioners such as Cosmetic Tattooist, Laser and IPL Practitioners and paramedical and medical aestheticians. For this category (Platinum Members) you must have your qualifications reviewed and verified. Once approved you will be required to abide by a Code of Ethics. This will allow us (with your approval) to promote you to the public. You will also qualify for all the benefits of Gold Membership.

SILVER MEMBERSHIP Entitles you to: ! Two mentoring sessions of up to 30 minutes per session ! General enquiries unlimited e.g. requesting a phone number etc. ! 12 Months subscription to the AESTHETICS PRACTITIONERS JOURNAL ! Registration to Members’ Only Website Network Centre ! E-Newsletter ! Access to web-based business and professional development programs ! 10% discount on all merchandising ! 20% discount on all Conferences staged by APAN Membership fee: $198 per year.

BRONZE MEMBERSHIP Entitles you to: ! 12 months subscription to the AESTHETICS PRACTITIONERS JOURNAL ! Registration to Members’ Only Website Network Centre ! Access to web-based business and professional development programs ! 10% discount on all merchandising Membership fee $110 per year. STUDENT MEMBERSHIP Entitles you to: ! 12 months subscription to the AESTHETICS PRACTITIONERS JOURNAL ! Registration to Members’ Only Website Network Centre ! Access to web-based business and professional development programs ! 10% discount on all merchandising Membership fee $55 per year. Evidence that you are an active student must be provided. To enjoy the benefits and support of APAN you are invited to join as a member. Visit www.apanetwork.com and download a MEMBERSHIP APPLICATION FORM or for further information phone 07 5593 0360 or email: info@apanetwork.com.


Advancing your Skills – Increasing your Income by Faye Rielly For any business to survive during difficult times there needs to be a finetuning and tightening of expenses, staff efficiency and a review that overhead costs are justifiable. However, cost-cutting measures should not be the only issue for consideration. More importantly, introducing procedures that will increase the revenue to the business is the more positive approach.

Lipline Before

Lipline After

Eyebrow Before

Eyebrow After

Eyeliner Before

Reviewing the availability of services provided to the consumer and determining the options of adding new ones that could possibly bring in new clients, or extend the service menu offered to existing clients, should be a key consideration. One such option is providing the services of Cosmetic Tattooing. In recent years we have seen a boom in consumer demand for cosmetic tattooing as a means of enhancing their appearance. Here are some of the benefits of these procedures and how they can provide solutions for your clients: ! Symmetry – As we age we will experience drooping of the muscles. However, this does not usually happen symmetrically. For example, the left upper lip may drop more than the right lip due to muscle ptosis. This can make the lips look thinner and crooked. With cosmetic tattooing we can correct this through a carefully designed lipline procedure that can bring balance back to the lips making them look more youthful. ! Lip fullness – The virtues of needling to stimulate collagen density and minimising the appearance of wrinkles, are now validated. A lipline and a blend performed through cosmetic tattooing will not only improve the appearance of the lips through the outline and colour enhancement, but can also assist in strengthening collagen integrity through the application process of needling. For even fuller lip enhancement, a full lip colour can offer even better results. ! Eyebrows – A well-shaped eyebrow can take years off ones appearance. This is why we are seeing Designer Eyebrows as a technique enjoying such great popularity. Once again, eyebrows can lose their symmetry, leading to one being higher than the other. Also, hair density diminishes with age, as does colour of hair, which can fade. With the new hairline technique we can dramatically improve the eyebrows through density, length and arching to create a more youthful appearance with a “lifting” effect to the eyes and features. Furthermore, with the hairstroke technique this can now be achieved and still look totally natural. ! Eyeliner – With the progression of age so eyesight may also diminish, not to mention that the skin around the eyes becomes looser. All these factors can make it more difficult to apply eyeliner with the level of precision that was previously possible. This can make the face look tired and the eyes lifeless. Cosmetic tattoo can solve this problem through the eyeliner technique. You can tattoo the top liner or the bottom liner, or both if your client wishes. This procedure is always received with great enthusiasm as it can greatly enhance one’s appearance, not to mention that they can wake up and not feel totally bland-looking without a touch of colour. New Cosmetic Tattooing techniques for eyeliner application can allow you to create some incredible finishes using a variety of colours that can be subtle, but create an amazing finish. Apart from the standards makeup procedures there are numerous other more advanced para-medical procedures such as nipple areola repigmentation for clients who have undergone mastectomy, scar attenuation for burns victims as well as needling for softening of lines.

Eyeliner After APJ 52

A new career Cosmetic Tattooing offers incredible job satisfaction to the practitioner and of course excellent revenue-making opportunities, while helping to improve your client’s appearance and secure their loyalty. If you are a salon owner and would like to introduce this service, but do not wish to train yourself, you can pay for a staff member to do so and secure a contract with them that necessitates that they deliver a minimum number of treatments to the business. Should they leave prior to this then they will need to reimburse you for their training. We can assist you with this as well if you would like our recommendations on how to set this up. Upselling Cosmetic tattooing also offers excellent opportunity for upselling this service to your clients. If they have had a lip treatment, but you identify that they could also benefit from their eyebrows being tattooed you could recommend this to them as a further service. The possibilities are endless for upselling. Potential income If you perform one procedure a week in cosmetic tattooing you can expect to gain between $30,000 to $42,000 per year in income with a modest investment. Imagine how much work and financial outlay is required to gain this level of income, for instance through product sales? By adding this one service to your salon menu you could significantly increase your revenue and make this year an even more successful one. Personalised Training As the principal of the Australian Institute of Permanent Makeup I am both passionate about training standards and about excellence in the procedure. With over 20 years experience in cosmetic tattooing I am constantly updating my own education and developing new techniques that are characteristic of my own signature training style, which I freely pass on to my students. Cosmetic tattooing relies very much on mastering artistry and precision in its techniques and I am a strong believer that this can not be taught in a group environment, as every person’s capabilities are different. Therefore the training we offer at AIPM is one-on-one to ensure that students master the technique to competency levels and more importantly, can continue to deliver the service with confidence. When you train with AIPM you can be assured that I will personally deliver your full training. We have numerous testimonials from past and current students that vouch for the level of excellence they have gained from their training and the ongoing support that we offer to each and every graduate. Here is just one example: “I chose to train in Cosmetic Tattooing with Faye Rielly because I felt she was well rounded as a trainer and a person. She loves her profession with passion and holds nothing back when teaching you both the artistry and protocols of this modality. Her incredible personality and enthusiasm wore off on me. She is a true mentor who gives everything to her students, ensuring they gain the very best from their training and become true experts in their profession. The one-on-one training allowed the learning to be paced correctly and tailored to my individual needs and level of comprehension. I really don’t believe that this modality can be taught in any other way. It is such a specialised and detailed procedure and it truly requires the undivided attention of your trainer at all times to ensure that you gain the maximum from your training.” KATE SELLWOOD, Advanced Body Image, Darwin, NT.

If you believe we can help you in training as a Cosmetic Tattooists or to update your skills please phone: AIPM on 07 5530 5411or email abeautyconcepts@bigpond.com.


LEADING THE WAY IN COSMETIC TATTOO EDUCATION

Certificate courses in ! Eyebrows ! Eyeliner Extension ! Upper & Lower Eyeliners ! Eyelash Enhancement ! Full Lip ! Lip-line & Lip-blend ! Beauty spot & Blush ! Advanced Paramedical ! Scar camouflage ! Vitiligo Re-pigmentation ! Nipple Areola Creation ! Nipple Areola Re-pigmentation ! Correction colouration ! Electronic colour removal ! Feature reconstruction ! Hair imitation ! Scar relaxation ! Multitrepannic collagen actuation ! Non-Laser Tattoo Removal (Face & Body) ! Training Mapped to WRB31A and above

Faye Rielly — Principal

One-On-One Training (For Outstanding Graduates)

Sole Authorised Australasian Mei-cha Educator & Distributor MEI-CHA: A WORLD PIONEER IN COSMETIC TATTOO INNOVATIONS & SAFETY

Phone: (07) 5530 5411 Fax: Email: abeautyconcepts@bigpond.com

(07) 5530 7411 Web: www.farren.com.au

P.O. Box 1606 Mudgeeraba 4213


nutrition

The Nutritional Benefits of Magnesium for the Skin and Body by Tina Viney The virtues of magnesium for health and wellness are well known. However, what can this mineral offer the skin and what is its role in anti-ageing? In this article we present some recent findings. What is Magnesium and why is it so important? Magnesium is the fourth most abundant mineral in the body and is essential for life. It is the single most important mineral for maintaining proper electrical balance, facilitating smooth cell metabolism and stabilising membranes. Only 1 per cent of magnesium is found in blood, but the body works very hard to keep blood levels of magnesium constant. According to Dr Carloyn Dean, author of The Miracle of Magnesium, magnesium is very important in health and medicine. It is extremely important specifically for the metabolism of calcium, potassium, phosphorus, zinc, copper, iron, sodium, lead, cadmium, hydrochloric acid (HCl), acetylcholine and nitric oxide (NO). It is also important for the metabolism of many enzymes, for the intracellular homeostasis and for activation of thiamine and therefore, for a very wide gamut of critical body functions. Magnesium is a particularly crucial element for mediating the vital functions of the nervous and endocrine systems: It helps maintain normal muscle and nerve functions, keeps heart rhythm steady, supports a healthy immune system and keeps bones strong. Magnesium also helps regulate blood sugar levels, promotes normal blood pressure, and it is also known to be involved in energy metabolism and protein synthesis. If magnesium levels are low the nerves loose control over muscle activity, respiration and mental processes. Nervous fatigue, tics and twitches, tremors, irritability, hypersensitivity, muscle spasms, restlessness, anxiety, confusion, disorientation and irregular heartbeat all respond to increased magnesium intake. In the nucleus, more than half the magnesium is closely associated with nucleic acids and mononucleotides. It is also necessary for the physical integrity of the double helix of DNA, which carries genetic information and the code for specific proteins. Enzymes are protein

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molecules that stimulate every chemical reaction in the body. Magnesium is required to make hundreds of these enzymes work. Of the 325 magnesium-dependent enzymes, the most important reaction involves the creation of energy by activating adenosine triphosphate (ATP), the fundamental energy storage molecule of the body. Thus fatigue is often reduced with magnesium supplementation for the many enzyme systems that require magnesium to help restore normal energy levels. There is therefore an increased interest in the role of magnesium in preventing and managing disorders such as hypertension, cardiovascular disease and diabetes. In terms of absorption, dietary magnesium is absorbed in the small intestines and is excreted through the kidneys. Magnesium and the Skin New investigations have identified that magnesium applied topically can also benefit the skin, and so we will increasingly see it becoming a popular ingredient in skincare. According to Dr Zein Obagi, formulator of ZO Skin Health, magnesium it is also essential in slowing down the ageing process in the skin and is present in hundreds of key biochemical processes in the human body. It also improves blood circulation and stimulates the skin to ensure that healthy elasticity is maintained and moisture levels remain normal. Test results confirm skin benefits of bathing in a magnesium-rich Dead Sea salt solution Magnesium salts, the prevalent minerals in Dead Sea water, are known to benefit inflammatory skin diseases. A study conducted by the Department of Dermatology, University of Kiel, in Germany, examined the efficacy of bathing atopic subjects in a salt rich in magnesium chloride from deep layers of the Dead Sea. Volunteers with atopic dry skin submerged one forearm for 15 minutes in a bath solution containing 5 per cent Dead Sea salt. The second arm was submerged in tap water as control. Before the study and at weeks 1-6, transepidermal water loss (TEWL), skin hydration, skin roughness and skin redness were determined. The study found one


subgroup with a normal and one subgroup with an elevated TEWL before the study. Bathing in the Dead Sea salt solution significantly improved skin barrier function compared with the tap water-treated control forearm in the subgroup with elevated basal TEWL. Skin hydration was enhanced on the forearm treated with the Dead Sea salt in each group, which confirmed that the treatment moisturised the skin. Skin roughness and redness, as markers for inflammation, were significantly reduced after bathing in the salt solution. This demonstrates that bathing in the salt solution was well tolerated, improved skin barrier function, enhanced stratum corneum hydration, and reduced skin roughness and inflammation. The study confirmed that the beneficial effects of bathing in the Dead Sea salt solution were related to the high magnesium content. Magnesium salts are known to bind water, influence epidermal proliferation and differentiation, and enhance permeability barrier repair.

The toxic effect of fluoride ions plays a key role in acute magnesium deficiency Although much debate continues about the virtues and vices of the recent government initiative to add fluoride to water, evidence points to the fact that it will interfere with the effectiveness of certain minerals, one of these being magnesium.

What is the best way to get extra magnesium? Eating a variety of whole grains, legumes and vegetables (especially dark-green, leafy vegetables) every day will help provide recommended intakes of magnesium and maintain normal storage levels of this mineral. Increasing dietary intake of magnesium can often restore mildly depleted magnesium levels. However, increasing dietary intake of magnesium may not be enough to restore very low magnesium levels to normal.

Magnesium is an antagonist to fluoride. If magnesium is in short supply, the fluoride will bind with the small amount of magnesium there is and cause it to be excreted in the urine. The fluoride will then occupy sites in the bones that the magnesium should be occupying. It is therefore vital to make sure your body has ample supply of magnesium to counteract the toxic effects of fluoride and other toxins that may inadvertently be ingested from food, water or pharmaceuticals. Dr Paul Connett Professor of Chemistry at St Lawrence University in Canton, New York, USA has conducted extensive research on the hazards of fluoride in water and advises drinking filtered water and beverages without fluoride (www.fluoridealert.org). Fluoride inhibits enzyme activity, whereas magnesium supports enzyme activity.

When blood levels of magnesium are very low, intravenous (i.e. by IV) magnesium replacement is usually recommended. Magnesium tablets also may be prescribed, although some forms can cause diarrhoea. It is important to have the cause, severity, and consequences of low blood levels of magnesium evaluated by a physician, who can recommend the best way to restore magnesium levels to normal. Because people with kidney disease may not be able to excrete excess amounts of magnesium, they should not take magnesium supplements unless prescribed by a physician. Transdermal Magnesium Chloride absorption New research suggests that one of the best ways for the body to benefit from magnesium is to receive it transdermally. Magnesium supplementation transdermally (through the skin) is gentle and effective. It doesn't irritate the bowel as may be possible with oral ingestion. Magnesium is consumed by the body daily – in higher quantities when you are under stress (emotional or physical), so improving absorption through transdermal means is one effective way of supplementing deficiencies. According to Dr Mark Sircus, author of Transdermal Magnesium Therapy, magnesium chloride is one of the most potent minerals that exists and is incredibly fast acting and safe. This form of magnesium is readily recognised and assimilated by the human metabolic system, as it is the same form contained in seawater. Dr Daniel Reid author of The Tao of Detox also supports the claim that magnesium chloride used transdermally is a quick and easy way to correct chronic degenerative conditions caused by magnesium deficiency. Reid further states that the problem with oral magnesium is that all magnesium compounds are potentially laxative. There is good evidence that magnesium absorption depends upon the mineral remaining in the intestine at least 12 hours. Transdermal magnesium application delivers high levels of magnesium directly through the skin to the cellular level, bypassing processing by the liver as well as common intestinal and kidney symptoms. With the transdermal approach the body will not ‘overdose’ itself. When it has enough in a magnesium bath it simply stops absorbing more. All other methods of supplementation involve educated guesses.

Fluoride ions clearly interfere with the biological activity of magnesium ions. In general, fluoride-magnesium interactions decrease enzymatic activity. Medical science has discovered how sensitive the insulin receptor sites are to chemical poisoning. Metals such as cadmium, mercury, arsenic, lead, fluoride and possibly aluminium may play a role in the actual destruction of beta cells through stimulating an auto-immune reaction to them after they have bonded to these cells in the pancreas.

Electra Magnesium Mineral Salt Elektra Magnesium mineral bath salt (magnesium chloride hexahydrate mgCl2.6h20) has a neutral pH of 7.0 in solution and will counteract acidity. They are now available for salon/spas and clinics for profession use and for retail sales. Elektra Magnesium is naturally harvested by evaporation from seawater, which comes from an isolated lake 3,200m above sea level in the Tibetan Plateau. Independent laboratory testing has found no mercury and no lead. The flakes can be dissolved in water to make Magnesium Oil (between 35% to 70% solution). Just mix 35 to 70 grams of flakes with 100ml water. Strength depends on skin sensitivity. Very sensitive skins may need more dilution. Magnesium oil is not a true oil, but has an 'oily' or slippery texture when magnesium chloride flakes are dissolved in water in high concentration. dissolve in water to make: ! Bath (suggested about 1 cup per average bath) ! Foot Soak (suggested heaped tablespoon per bucket) ! Body Spray (suggested heaped teaspoon per 350ml) ! Mouthwash (suggested heaped teaspoon per 350ml) ! Compress for Sprains and Swelling Moisturiser Blend Dissolve 75g magnesium chloride hexahydrate flakes in 100ml pure water and gradually pour into 400g natural moisturiser body butter (with no artificial chemical additives) while beating/stirring until fully blended. Elektra Magnesium recommends that you use pure water to dissolve Elektra Magnesium for mouthwash, body spray, moisturiser and compress. If your bath water is fluoridated and unfiltered then add a little extra magnesium salts. For therapeutic use, higher concentrations may be required. Please refer to your health practitioner. See page 74 for details on Elektra Magnesium. Reference: ATSDR (1993). Toxicological Profile for Fluorides, Hydrogen Fluoride, and Fluorine (F). U.S. Department of Health and Human Service. ATSDR/TP-91/17. The Official Anti-Ageing Revolution, Klatz and Goldman Elektra Life Pty Ltd Dr. Carloyn Dean, The Miracle of Magnesium Dr Mark Sircus, Transdermal Magnesium Therapy

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ingredients without apparent in-depth consideration of the possible negative consequences of limiting sun exposure to the degree that was suggested. The numbers of melanomas and other skin cancers are ironically still rising today, in spite of an anti-tan culture and very widespread use of predominantly UVB-absorbing sunscreens. Most of these sunscreens carry the now well-known SPF ratings and people proudly use these while they go out  to enjoy sunny weather. The campaigns to reduce the incidence of skin cancer have not been successful and the really troubling part is that no one seems to be able or willing to explain why  they have failed. The anti-tan culture has been a positive development, but the use of illconceived sunscreens has not.  Perhaps looking at some basic available facts will help shed light on where the current approaches have failed and this is exactly where the role of vitamins come in.  SUPPRESSING CANCER-CAUSING GENES It is a known fact that Vitamin A induces transcription of protective proteins in a cancer suppressing gene called p53. The name of this gene is not important here, but we know that vitamin D may well have a similar action over and above other specific effects that inhibit the growth of a variety of cancers. Vitamin D helps to cause the programmed death of cancer cells directly and this includes the cells of non-melanoma skin cancers.  Suppressor genes prevent so called oncogenes or cancer-causing genes from becoming Dr. Ernst Richard Eiselen active and promoting cancer formation. Both these vitamins stimulate healthy cells to specialise to their best potential, which is the exact opposite Vitamin D as we know is a close cousin of vitamin A. It is also fatsoluble, has receptors on the cell nucleus and even shares one of the behaviour found in cells undergoing cancerous changes. Vitamin D vitamin A receptors, but somehow in the past couple of decades bolsters the immune system against infections like influenza and everyone seems to have forgotten about this vital molecule. We have pneumonia and has many other direct and indirect positive functions in probably done actual damage through very well meaning, but the human immune system.  excessive preventative sun-exposure measures to curb skin  ageing A little simple logic then suggests that if people lack sufficient quantities of vitamins A and D, the risk of oncogenes becoming active and damage. and causing cancer will increase. Additionally, the fact that UVA light A lot of good research is now suggesting that just like vitamin A, is not sufficiently screened out by most commercially available vitamin D is a vital link in the body's innate ability to prevent cancers protective lotions (even those with high SPF rating), and it becomes from starting up. It is actually a little frightening to realise that lack of obvious that the damage caused by excess free radicals and UVA light vitamin D may have a hand in the higher incidences of all kinds of will lead to an increase in skin cancers.  cancer like breast cancer, pancreatic cancer, bowel cancer and even   skin cancer. Many people know that vitamin D is important for bones To make matters worse, the SPF rating on sunscreens refers to and teeth and may cause severe deformities in children suffering from a ultraviolet B screening only. Ultraviolet B is the very light spectrum condition called rickets, but few seem to realise that it is such an required to make activated vitamin D3. In another ironic twist of the situation, burning of the skin is the only real warning we get when we important molecule in the general health of people.  have had too much sun exposure. The high SPF UVB screens thus   The important question of course is why this new and potentially leaving us without an important warning sign of over-exposure. catastrophic situation has come about? The answer is that in our strong   drive to promote skin health, health care professionals and beauty Adding the positive and negative factors mentioned above together therapists alike have turned into "Sun Nazis". Over the past 20 years or makes it clear that there should be an urgent need to reconsider the so there has been a concerted effort internationally to curb the approach the world has developed to deal sensibly with sun exposure. incidence of skin cancers and in particular malignant melanoma

Vitamin D

– the Cinderella of Vitamins

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MAINTAINING A BALANCE The answer in solving this riddle probably lies in the simple concept of the maintenance of balance. A health-promoting balance can be usually achieved if we let common sense prevail and if extreme approaches to anything are avoided. In the modern-day Western thinking, medicine depends on so-called Evidence Based Research to design effective preventative and treatment strategies. It should be no different for aestheticians. However, it takes a great deal of time and even more money to accumulate the sort of evidence required to prove the difference between effective and excessive sun exposure. Fortunately, we do not need to wait for big trials and lots of specific evidence to act now and do the right thing. We have all of the tools to do the right thing right at hand now. A SENSIBLE SOLUTION People need 15 minutes of direct sun exposure to face, neck and arms in near-midday sun on most days in summer to produce sufficient quantities of vitamin D. After the exposure they need to cover up with comfortable protective clothing and appropriate sunscreening lotions. At night, vitamin A and antioxidants should be applied to restore the vitamin A storehouse in the skin and to mop up any excessive free radicals accumulated during the day. These three steps form a solid unit that helps to ensure the critical production and preservation of vitamins A and D, while protecting and promoting the delicate cell health of the skin.    It is always important to think of the balances required in almost everything  we do in life. Equally, we can predict that when practising any excesses that they will ultimately lead to problems. Vitamin D appears to have become the Cinderella of the vitamins because of incomplete thinking  or a critical lack of facts about the essential preventative factors involved in cancer formation.   As aestheticians it is vital to understand the importance of all of the vitamins human skin has evolved with. Clients need level-headed advice on sensible and moderate habits to follow, especially when it comes to vitamin D. Perhaps the real key to solving this conundrum is to start  maintenance of skin cells before they have suffered any damage. So let us not forget vitamin D. Make sure everyone has enough of it and together with vitamin A, procure the best quality skin to reduce the ever-present ogre of skin and other cancers. Dr Ernst Richard Eiselen, MBChB, is the Medical Adviser to Environ® Skin Care since 2003 and the Medical Director of the revolutionary wound care device Cerdak®. During his 22 years in active medical practice, Dr Eiselen has gained a general perspective on clinical medicine both First and Third World. He has developed special skills and novel approaches to medicine, in particular Restorative Dermatology, Skin Cancer, Revolutionary New Wound Care, Preventative Medicine and Clinical Photography in Practice for Dermatological Diagnoses. Dr Eiselen is highly regarded for his keen interest and involvement in restorative dermatology through enhanced tissue differentiation by retinoid and antioxidant topical applications. Key to these theories is his philosophy that even tissue traditionally regarded as permanent tissue may be revived into repair by differentiation, not referring only to stem cell related techniques, but use of optimising techniques to reactivate existing DNA repair systems. He is also the developer of a cutting edge micro-porous ceramic wound treatment device called Cerdak®, developed through a process of optimisation of a perfectly evolved healing process also known as the wound-healing cascade. This device has recently been launched in South Africa and is now being launched internationally.

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industry event about the different types of equipment and what they offer. For example how different lasers target different levels of the skin. If I am to offer treatments on skin that has had such procedures, I need to understand how the skin has been affected by these treatments and determine the best possible way that my treatments can interface with a medical procedure effectively for the best possible outcome.

The value of an Aesthetician attending a medical conference – What to expect and how you can benefit On the 6 to 9 May the Australasian College of Cosmetic Surgery (ACCS) celebrated its 10th anniversary and conducted its annual Conference held at the Sydney Convention and Exhibition Centre, Darling Harbour. The 2009 Conference included a three-day academic program with plenary sessions, workshops and an industry exhibition. There were a number of high-profile local and international speakers from the cosmetic, plastic, facial and dermatology fields who presented the latest developments and procedures. The conference attracted both medical and aesthetic therapists. It is now becoming a common phenomenon for medical cosmetic and antiageing conferences to welcome para-medical and aesthetic therapists who are keen to increase their knowledge of new developments and gain a greater understanding of how their treatments can better interface with aesthetic medical procedures. But as an aesthetic therapist how should you approach such a conference and what can you expect to gain from it? To help you gain this information we interviewed Gay Wardle who attended the recent ACCS Conference in Sydney: APJ 1. Gay, why did you attend the ACCS Conference and what can an aesthetician expect to gain from such a conference? Gay: As therapists we want to offer the very best for our clients. As we train and undertake more advanced procedures that offer anti-ageing results, so we will also attract the clients who have a higher expectation of their appearance. Progressively, we are seeing an increase in clients who have undergone cosmetic enhancement procedures such as Botox or various injectible fillers. But do you know how to continue offering your services to such clients without moving these fillers or doing damage? The ACCS Conference allowed me to gain a greater understanding of the different procedures and the new techniques that are now being used to improve one’s appearance. I also learnt

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APJ 2. What new developments did you learn that you would like to share with us? Gay: The most exciting developments I observed were the introduction of new methods and techniques used when administering injectibles that offer a more natural finish not only on the face, but also for breast enhancement. It is quite evident that consumers prefer to undertake plastic surgery as a last resort, so progressively we are seeing new innovations in fillers, injectibles and Fractional Lasers that can offer great results. Understanding the life-span of the various injectibles and what ingredients I should be using in the salon to help prolong the life of that procedure was very valuable to me, as once again, this will help me better interface my procedures to the medical ones my client may have had. APJ 3. How can the information that you have gained help you with your salon clients? Gay: By understanding the results that these procedures can offer will


now allow me to know what I can recommend to my clients. For example, if my client has deep wrinkles that I know I cannot reverse, I need to not only determine to what level my treatments can benefit the client, but also inform them of what medical procedures are available that can give them the full result they are looking for. Persisting in giving them promises you cannot deliver will only make you lose their trust. As a professional you need to know and be truthful with your client as to the level of result they can expect from you. It is your professional and ethical obligation to be honest with the results your treatments can achieve, and then recommend what other options they should consider if they want to reach a new level that you cannot achieve for them. In that way I know I can gain my clients’ trust and respect and they will keep coming back to me. APJ 4. Many qualified beauty therapists may feel intimidated attending a medical conference. What advice would you give them as to why they should attend? Gay: You only feel intimidated because you have a lack of knowledge. Once you increase your knowledge you will gain confidence not only in your work, but also you will become more comfortable to work with doctors as you will be able to speak the same language. It is naive to keep your head buried in the sand. If you are serious about your work you should also be learning from peer groups, such as medical conferences. This will broaden your scope of knowledge and understanding. It will assist you to undertake new procedures with greater confidence of the full spectrum of possibilities, both through your services and beyond. The best advice I could give an aesthetician attending a medical conference is to come prepared to take lots of notes. There may be information presented that you may not understand. However, be patient because you will find links that will expand your thinking and grasp new concepts that can prove to be valuable to you either now or down the track of your educational development. Remember that from an academic environment the information presented may be more “conceptual” especially if the lecturer is presenting research findings. Don’t make the mistake to expect it to be given “training skills” and “how to”procedures. APJ 5. What is the benefit of attending a conference that may be pitched outside of the scope of your training and education? Gay: Gaining information that is more advanced than your immediate scope of practice is extremely valuable. First, because it will help you gain understanding of the full spectrum of treatment options and this will allow you to better appreciate where your services fit in. Second, you will gain information that you can build on that may become the stepping stone for you to take the leap and pursue higher educational qualifications. I also would encourage you to ask yourself why you are in this industry? If you want to be considered as an expert practitioner you will need to continue learning and researching as a way of life. APJ 6. What changes do you see in appearance enhancement in the future and do you see any of these procedures being delivered in an aesthetic clinic? How can an aesthetician best prepare to move into this realm of work? Gay: There are numerous new developments entering the industry,

both at the top end of medical procedures as well as within our own aesthetics domain. I believe we will continue to see a surge of new innovations that will promise quicker, easier and more natural results. The more you know and understand of what both the medical and the aesthetics disciplines are offering, the better off you will be to determine what qualifications you will need to interface your procedures and work successfully with these advances. For example, understanding the composition of the different fillers will allow you to support their longevity. If for instance your client has had fillers that are based on hyaluronic acid these will be short lived if the skin is dehydrated; understanding this will help you support the skin with ingredients that boost the skin’s hydration levels and prolong the life of the fillers. Furthermore, you would avoid the use of equipment or massage procedures that utilise suction movements, as these will move the fillers. Knowing the different types of laser will also make a different to the way you need to treat the skin. Co2 lasers remove all of the epidermis, whereas Fractional Co2 lasers leave 80 per cent of the epidermis intact. After such treatments the skin will need the support of powerful antioxidants to enhance optimal rejuvenation. When considering anti-ageing you need to remember that age prevention is also going to be a growing market. We are now seeing individuals as young as in their 20s who are having Botox because they are becoming very conscious of maintaining a flawless complexion. Think about this age group as a potential market – age prevention is no longer about the mature woman any more, and also don’t forget the men. The anti-ageing revolution will also require that you continue growing your knowledge also on the internal factors that may contribute to compromising one’s appearance. Changing hormonal levels, muscle and bone degeneration will also contribute to the appearance of ageing. Gaining knowledge on how to support the body in these areas will open up new possibilities for you as well. If we choose to grow our knowledge and education then the gap between the aesthetic practitioner and the medical practitioner will close down, offering greater possibilities of successful collaborative working relationships. You cannot remain successful unless you are constantly investing in your knowledge and education. This will not only continue to make your work exciting, but will also safeguard your future survival in your profession.

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laser phototheraphy Extending your treatment possibilities in rejuvenation of the ageing face and skin with

PHOTOTHERAPY TECHNOLOGIES Tina H.E. Czech Principal: Australian Institute Of Laser Therapy

Before photo-rejuvenation with thermal laser

When it comes to laser photo-medicine, dermal and soft tissue repair Tina Czech is considered an international leader in her field and a highly regarded laser and health science educator and clinician. In her earlier years she experienced the devastating effects of an accident that caused her incredible skin damage and trauma to underlying tissues, which led to her interest in identifying therapeutic modalities that could modify scar tissue at both an dermal and subcutaneous level. Tina has achieved extensive qualifications to undertake dermal and tissue repair at a remedial level utilising phototherapy and is heavily involved in medical research. She is a regular speaker at many national and international laser, health and medical conferences, where she presents the latest findings in the area of laser photo-medicine, dermal and tissue repair. In this article Tina Czech addresses the key factors relating to sun-induced and chronological ageing of the skin.

THE MANIFESTATIONS OF AGEING

immediately after thermal laser

immediately after non-thermal therapeutic laser all performed in one treatment session

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The outward signs of ageing are predominantly seen in the visible changes to the skin due to intrinsic and extrinsic factors and as life expectancy increases so does the search for intervening modalities that will sustain health, as well as improve the individual’s appearance by reversing the visible signs of ageing of the skin and body tissues. An average decline of 1-2% per year in dermal collagen content following menopause has been reported and may reflect a hormonal etiology, although the effect of oestrogen appears to be dependent on the baseline collagen content at the onset of the treatment and exerts a preventative role in collagen loss in those women with lower initial collagen levels. Interfibril proteoglycans decrease and collagen becomes more insoluble, and biochemical studies have revealed that in photo-aged skin levels of type 1 and 111 collagen precursors and cross-links are reduced, whereas elastin levels are increased, and that this is more evident in men. Individual susceptibility dictates that the visible signs of photo-ageing of the skin differ in severity and

extent from person to person, therefore a multifaceted approach to treatment must be employed for each individual.

THE LESSONS OF HISTORY IN LASER TECHNOLOGY The principle of selective photo-thermal activation using lasers with power outputs above 1 watt was introduced in 1981 and was a turning point in dermatological treatment and surgery. The lessons of history teach us that the best and safest clinical outcome is obtained by a systematic approach, especially when it comes to laser technology and the laser ‘burn and learn era’ is now considered over. The selective absorption of laser light delivered at very fast speeds leads to photo-thermal activation, involving light-absorbing molecules (chromophores) such as blood, melanin, porphyrins, amino acids and water, which play an active role in the absorption of specific wavelengths of laser light within the skin. This enables a more controlled method of removing damaged capillaries, benign agerelated neoplasms such as seborrheic keratoses, cherry angiomas, lentigo, and senile hyperplasias without the risk of hypopigmentation associated with conventional medical cauterisation or cryotherapy. Laser bio-modulation using lasers with output powers in the milliwatt range do not produce photo-thermal activation, instead photochemical responses are instigated to enhance physiological and biological activity. Therapeutic lasers for implementing biomodulation were introduced in the late 1970s and are widely used in areas of health care to relieve pain, accelerate healing of all types of tissue and improve circulation and lymph drainage.

COMBINATION PHOTOREJUVENATION USING THERMAL AND NON-THERMAL LASER Routine skin rejuvenation to reduce wrinkles using high-intensity photo-thermal laser or intense pulsed light operating with output powers above 1 watt should ideally be reinforced with low-intensity non-thermal therapeutic laser operating in the milliwatt range of power. Application of therapeutic laser once to twice a week between routine


photo-thermal skin-rejuvenation treatments will maintain optimum energy levels and cellular metabolism in collagen producing fibroblast cells as well as rejuvenate the underlying muscles and connective tissue of the face, neck and chest, which is currently not being addressed with photo-thermal procedures alone.

FACIAL AGEING IS THREEDIMENSIONAL The cutaneous fat and muscles with their aponeuroses (superficial musculoaponeurotic system, SMAS) exert an enormous impact on apparent age and can be successfully manipulated by aesthetic plastic surgeons. The volume and contour changes are just as important as the skin surface characteristics when perceiving a person’s age. Follow-up treatment with therapeutic laser after aesthetic surgery will assist in maintaining firm facial contours and optimum skin regeneration. Skin-resurfacing procedures that involve the removal of the sun-damaged epidermis by cosmetic dermatologists and aesthetic surgeons using CO2 or Erbium laser should ideally incorporate therapeutic laser daily within the first two weeks after the epidermis has been ablated, to facilitate faster renewal of the epidermis and rapidly reduce swelling and associated pain as well as inflammation, to avoid the risk of post-inflammatory skin hyperpigmentation. Although skin ageing comprises only a portion of the entire ageing process, data from the National Ambulatory Medical Care survey in the USA, show that during the years of 1996 – 1997, 4.6% of total physician visits were related to dermatological problems and this percentage is anticipated to be even higher as the proportion of elderly in the population increases. A worldwide trend towards reversing the visible signs of ageing has indicated that the importance of skin and its appearance has been the result of increased awareness created by the advertising media. As a result, a substantial increase in the number of visits to skin-therapy centres and laser clinics is anticipated. To effectively manage and offer the proper intervention modalities to reverse cutaneous ageing, it is important to be familiar with the clinical and histological changes that take place in the skin to assist in not only selecting the right treatments for clients, but in preventing and slowing down the negative effects of ageing with adequate sun protection, cosmeceutical skin products and nutrition therapy.

CRITICAL FACTORS IN THE AGEING PROCESS Sun-induced photo-ageing of the skin results from activation of cell surface receptors, which leads to propagation of intracellular

signalling and the synthesis of transcription factors, and nuclear proteins that bind the DNA to enhance or repress gene transcription. It has been identified that sun-exposed epidermis shows signs of dysplasia and is the forerunner of neoplastic changes. This begins with minor irregularities in cell and nuclear size, shape and staining, as well as an increase in irregular melanin deposits accompanied by the physical signs of erythema and telangiectasia, which may be associated to the decrease in the lack of support for the dermal vasculature. Large tangled masses of degraded elastic tissue replaces strong binding collagen fibres, resulting in a collapsed and heavily wrinkled appearance and is the most prominent histological feature of photo-damage. This solar elastotic degeneration in the dermal connective tissue occurs in sun-exposed skin and is completely preventable by avoiding extensive direct sun exposure and overuse of solariums and using sunblock that screens not only UVB, but UVA solar wavelengths as well.

Upper and lower blepharoplasty and Erbium skin resurfacing

7 days after daily treatment with therapeutic laser

Cumulated photo-damage from the sun and other climatic stimuli result not only in visible changes at an epidermal level, but also affect the dermis and in some individuals attributes up to 90% of the aged appearance. Chronological ageing is associated with the continuous formation of reactive oxygen species (ROS) generated during oxidative cellular metabolism to produce cellular energy, and this occurs in every cell in every type of tissue. ROS damages cell membranes, RNA, enzymes and DNA, including DNA – protein and protein – protein interactions. Not only ROS accelerate the ageing process, but so does the shortening of telomeres, which are repetitive DNA sequences that cap the ends of chromosomes of eukaryotic cells, and these shorten with each cell division. Even in relatively quiescent skin fibroblast cells more than 30% of the telomere length is lost during adulthood. Critically short telomeres signal cell cycle arrest depending on the cell type, which contributes to cellular depletion with ageing. Administering therapeutic laser directly to the skin surface, at specific dosages and frequencies, has been proven to instigate electron transfer within the respiratory chain of the cell mitochondria, resulting in increases in cellular energy and consequently cell regeneration within all types of tissue and skin. The oxidative effects of this increased cell respiration is consequently offset by increased amounts of the intracellular enzyme superoxide dismutase, which assists in neutralising ROS.

6 weeks after erbium laser skin resurfacing

7 days after daily treatment with therapeutic laser

Anti-ageing medicine encompasses more than just skin photo-rejuvenation using photo-

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thermal laser or IPL. It involves a holistic approach to the effects of ageing at a cellular level and tissue/organ level. The implementation of non-thermal therapeutic laser instigates the resuscitation of the mitochondria where cellular ageing begins. It then continues its effects on an extracellular level to reduce inflammation and enhance micro-circulation, lymphatic drainage and immune response. It does that to defend the entire organism against accelerated ageing and should also be considered an integral part of any anti-ageing treatment and form part of the aftercare following aesthetic surgery of the face and body.

Have you considered introducing Laser or Pulsed Light Therapy to your clinic?

or Do you need to upgrade your qualifications?

The Australian Institute of Laser Therapy offers training and qualifications as follows: Laser Safety Certificate 1 day course Laser Science and Safe Use of Laser and Intense Pulsed Light (21711VIC) DATES 21st July 2009 11th August 2009 28th September 2009

The Australian Institute Of Laser Therapy is internationally renowned training organisation in the field of cosmetic and therapeutic laser and accredited post-graduate education in laser and IPL. Telephone 1300 887 344 for further information. Tina Czech is the principal of the Australian Institute Of Laser Therapy and holds a university degree in health science, graduate diploma in clinical nutrition, international diploma in aesthetics and electrotherapy and numerous accredited postgraduate qualifications in laser. She is currently undertaking her PhD in the field of laser biomodulation. Tina is internationally renowned as a leading educator in her field, specialising in laser photomedicine, dermal and tissue repair, with over 15 years of clinical experience in laser, and is a member of the honorary board of directors for the World Academy of Laser Applications and laser technical adviser to the Royal District Nursing Service LILT Research Reference Group, Standards Australia Medical Laser Committee, and APAA Australian Medical and Clinical Laser Professionals and President of the Australian Society Of Dermal Clinicians.

REFERENCES

1 year Graduate Certificate- distance and classroom learning Graduate Certificate in Clinical Laser Therapy and Intense Pulsed Light for Dermatology and Scar Repair (21712VIC) DATES 21-23 July 2009 11-13 August 2009 Graduate Certificate in Clinical Laser Therapy for Musculoskeletal Conditions, Pain and Wound Healing (21713VIC) DATES 28-30 September 2009 For more information please visit our website www.ailt.com.au Or phone 1300 887 344 APJ 62

1. Marks, R. Sun-Damaged Skin. Pub. Martin Dunitz Ltd. 1992 2. Karu, T. ‘Photobiological fundamentals of low-power laser therapy’. Abstract of European Quantum Electronics Conference and 10th National Quantum Electronics Conference, 27-30 Aug. 1991, Edinburgh, Technical Digest, p.208. 3. Lam , T., Abergal, P., Meeker, C. et al 1986 Low Energy Lasers selectively enhanced collagen synthesis. Lasers in Life Sciences 1: 61-77. 4. Dyson, M., Young, S. Effects of Laser Therapy on Wound Contraction and Cellularity in Mice. In Lasers in Medical Science Vol 1: 125 1996. 5. Leivens, P., Mohebbian, M. The effect of IR-laser irradiation on the regeneration of muscle fibres. In Laser Therapy in Dentistry and Medicine. Prima Books in Sweden AB Eds Jan Tuner and Lars Hode . 1996, p. 164-179. 6. Czech, T. H. E. 3rd World Congress for Laser Therapy, 10-13 May 2000 Athens, Greece. 7. Brincat M., Kabalan S., Studd J W. , et al (1994) A study of the decrease of skin collagen content, skin thickness and bone mass in post-menopausal women. Obstet.Gynecol 70:840-845. 8. Allsopp R C, Vaziri H, Patterson C, Goldstein S, Younglai E V, Futcher A B, Greider C W., Harley C B. (1992) telomere length predicts replicative capacity of human fibroblasts. 9. Yaar, M., Gilchrest B A, (2003) Ageing of skin. In Freeberg I M., Eisen A Z., Wolf K., Austen K F., Goldsmith LA., Katz S I., (eds) Fitzpatricks dermatology in general medicine, vol. McGraw-Hill, New York, pp 13861398. 10. Passarella, S., Ostuni, A., Atlante, A. and Quagliariello, E. (1988b) Increase in the ADP/ATP exchange in the rat liver mitochondria irradiated in vitro by He-Ne laser. Biochem. Biophys. Res. Commun., 156, 978-986.


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profession development As Anti-ageing medicine as a profession is gaining the recognition and respect of its peers it is important that the aesthetic industry becomes familiar with what it represents and what it has to offer in the area of disease prevention and even reversal. This information will allow you to better understand how this stream of medicine can significantly enhancing one’s health, quality of life as well as anti-ageing results with or without surgery or aesthetic procedures. Below we presented A5M board members with a few questions on the principles of anti-ageing medicine and what one can expect from this conference: Q 1. Dr Michael Zacharia is the President of the AustralAsian Academy of Anti-Ageing Medicine (A5M). We asked him as a cosmetic and plastic surgeon and an anti-ageing physician how important is internal health to the results that can be expected from anti-ageing procedures? Answer: We live in a society that values youth above all else. While non-i nvasive and surgical aesthetic enhancement procedures will help us look younger, they won’t stop us from ageing inside. Although the field of Anti-Ageing Medicine is a fairly new discipline, there is a growing awareness among people wanting to maintain good

Investing in your Professional Development 3rd Annual Anti-Ageing & Aesthetic Medicine Conference rd We are delighted to announce the upcoming 3 Annual Anti-Ageing & Aesthetic Medicine Conference – Changing Paradigms in Medicine hosted by the AustralAsian Academy of Anti-Ageing Medicine (A5M) on the 3-4 October, 2009 in Melbourne. As an organisation, APAN is strongly supporting this event and encourages aesthetic therapists to attend and benefit from this conference as a serious investment in their professional development. The conference will feature leading international and local speakers of the highest calibre who are authorities in their area of expertise. The topics are numerous and varied and represent the latest scientific information on both internal and external anti-ageing research findings, protocols and techniques. This is an event that will undoubtedly change the way you view the human body as well as the way your address your own treatments and practices.

By quoting the reference number mentioned on the ad promoting this event on page 67 you can also benefit from a Special APAN delegates’ rate available to all Aesthetics Practitioner Journal readers.

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health and vitality. Millions of people, celebrities and captains of industry, of all ages, worldwide are embracing Anti-Ageing Medicine as a wellness model of choice. Anti-Ageing Medicine signifies the evolution of wellness and medicine from an ‘illness’ (reactive) model to a ‘wellness’ (preventative) model. By identifying internal imbalances and deficiencies that compromise health, we can often significantly reverse factors that contribute to pre-mature ageing and disease. In that way, we are not only working to enhance the external appearance of the individual, but also supporting their inner health by addressing the specific areas of concern. According to Dr Bob Goldman, co-Founder and Chairman of the Board of the American Academy of Anti-Aging Medicine (A4M) and President of the World Academy of Anti-Aging Medicine, anti-ageing is much more than skin deep. You can’t achieve anti-ageing through a skin cream, a piece of fitness equipment, or even a vitamin pill (not yet, at least). Anti-ageing medical care involves a regimen incorporating


multiple elements of scientifically based age-reversal medical interventions administered under the guidance of a trained antiageing physician or health professional. These include modalities that cover Cosmetic Medicine (aesthetic preservation and enhancement) as well as Internal Age Management. Anti-Ageing Medicine is based on a preventative approach to patient care – the early detection, prevention and treatment of agerelated disease. It is a philosophy borne out of the principles of Sports Medicine that uses a pro-active approach to creating a healthy mind and body. According to Dr Goldman, Anti-Ageing Medicine is among the fastest growing medical specialties throughout the world. He says, Anti-Ageing Medicine is: ! Scientific – There is scientific evidence to support anti-ageing diagnostic and treatment practices. ! Evidence-based – Effective treatment is assigned, based on a process for acquiring data in order to formulate a scientific and objective assessment. ! Well-documented by peer-reviewed journals – The National Library of Medicine hosts more than 3,000 peer-reviewed articles on Anti-Ageing Medicine. The whole basis of Anti-Ageing Medicine is not just about surgery and taking hormones. It’s all about lifestyle change to help reduce the diseases that typically occur in the body once a person hits their 40s and beyond. Q 2. Can you explain the theories on which Anti-Ageing Medicine is based? Answer: The following five anti-ageing theories can assist in increasing your longevity: ! Inflammation theory, the silent killer: Although inflammation is blamed for many chronic diseases, and ageing, we don’t always know what causes it. There are blood tests that measure pro-inflammatory cells, called cytokines that give us some idea of the presence of inflammation in your body. A poor diet, insufficient sleep and exposure to the sun, all these can create inflammation at a cellular level, with no visible external signs. This kind of inflammation can be responsible for many age-related diseases, such as Alzheimers, cancer, and heart disease. Eating a whole foods diet, and exercise, is a great start to minimising inflammation. By doing so, you can curtail disease, extend life, and look younger. ! Hormonal theory: Levels of key hormones such as oestrogen, progesterone, testosterone, dehydroepiandrosterone (DHEA), thyroid, and human growth hormone (HGH) all decrease as we start to age. Increasing one or more of these essential biochemicals may improve health, and hinder the ageing process. However, doing so requires the careful supervision of a specialist Anti-Ageing Physician. As you modify one hormone you affect the others. According to Anti-Ageing Physician, Dr Ronald Klatz, hormonal replacement therapy (HRT) adjusts each hormone so you can achieve a more youthful state of the major hormones across the board. Similarly, certain foods, combinations and quantities can be used to help restore hormonal balance. ! Antioxidant theory: Antioxidants and vitamins A, C and E protect the body’s cells and help to prevent free radical damage. Prevention of free radical damage, caused by ageing, stress, sun and pollution, in the body and the skin can avert and forestall the ageing process. Good quality multivitamins or a topical application that contains the antioxidant vitamins and minerals is essential to help combat free radical activity. Zinc, iron and other essential minerals also play a key role in supporting overall wellness. ! Lifestyle theory: Our lifestyle, which is what we eat, drink and expose ourselves to, can influence how quickly or slowly we age. Stress increases the production of the hormone cortisol, and this can directly affect how we age. From an early age we have the ability to make decisions and be in control of our lifestyle, which will determine how fast we age. Stress and how we deal with it plays a

key role in how we age. The “flight-or-fight” response increases production of the stress-hormone cortisol, which has been identified as an age accelerator. Not only does it impact on hormones and skin ageing, but it also makes us gain body fat, lose muscle mass and memory. Additional facts such as sugary and fried foods, alcohol and smoking, which we often turn to when stressed, cause cortisol and insulin levels to rise, accelerating the ageing process. ! Detox theory: When the body’s ability to detoxify itself is impaired by external and internal toxins, it can’t find equilibrium, which is important for maintaining good health. This leads to fatigue and trouble with cognitive function, which eventually may lead to diseases such as cancer. Toxins affect the skin when foods high in fat, sugar, and other chemicals in the diet cause a hormonal, nutritional and cellular change that impairs the body’s ability to detoxify itself. They manifest in acne, dry patches, sallowing of the skin, dark circles, wrinkles and more. A detox program begins with what you eat. A healthy diet, free from sugar and with ample water intake is essential in order to clear out toxins. Special Anti-Ageing Eating Programs recommend specific food combinations and quantities for healthy eating. Q 3. How can an Anti-Ageing Medical Conference benefit an aesthetics practitioner or a spa therapist? Answer: Until recently, the general perception of Anti-Ageing Medicine was the external aesthetic rejuvenation of a patient, using technologies, dermal injections, cosmeceuticals and surgery to effect change. The word Anti-Ageing has been widely adopted by cosmetic companies in marketing campaigns and thus associated with Aesthetic services only. However, there is much more that can be done if you are seeking real anti-ageing benefits. At this conference you will broaden your scope of understanding as to what anti-ageing medicine is all about. You will benefit from information on factors that cause internal ageing, new discoveries and research findings. You will learn about procedures, nutritional issues, diet and treatment protocols that will give you a more comprehensive understanding of what factors contribute to the ageing process. You will benefit from information on the new medical approach and tools that can not only enhance one’s appearance, but also support their health, wellness and quality of life. Your new-found knowledge gained from this conference will not only benefit how you address your profession, but also benefit you as the therapist/practitioner. In addition, by attending specific workshops that are run in conjunction with the conference, you will be able to learn how to build and run a profitable business – from stock, staff, business management, marketing and more. Q 4. What are some of the expected highlights of this conference that a delegate can look forward to? Answer: There will be numerous world-renowned speakers of the highest calibre, but we are particularly delighted to present: Dr Ron Rothenberg Member of the A4M Board of Scientific Advisors and pioneer in Anti-Aging Medicine /Interventional Endocrinology. Dr Rothenberg will be speaking on “Treating adult hormone deficiency using bio-identical hormone replacement therapy – a practical application”. He will also be speaking on “Growth Hormone: Fountain of Youth or Fallacy?” Manon Pilon Manon Pilon is a world-renowned Medispa expert and author of Anti-Aging the Cure: Based on your Body Type. Pilon will be conducting a medispa workshop on “Medispa: Increasing Your Bottom Line”, where she will present the secrets of how to earn up to $500,000 per Medispa room. This was a sellout workshop in Dubai recently and it looks set to be the MediSpa event of the year in Australia, (see Aesthetic Industry Bulletin page 93 for details).

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CONFERENCE TOPICS AND SPEAKERS (subject to change without notice) As the Conference Program is still a work-in-progress you will need to visit the A5M website on www.a5m.net) for a full update on the topics and speakers as they will be finalised approximately by the end of July. Meanwhile, below we present a sample of some of the topics and speakers that will feature this year.

> > > > > > > > >

An Introduction to Anti-Ageing Medicine – Dr Bob Goldman (USA) Hormone Myths – Dr Ron Rothenberg (USA) Genomics providing insights into anti-ageing – Prof Brian Morris (Aust) The brain as a muscle and how to achieve optimal brain performance – Dr Bob Goldman (USA) Stress, Telomeres and Botanical Medicine – Dr Daniel Weber (Aust) Introduction to treating adult hormone deficiency – Dr Ron Rothenberg (USA) Compounding Pharmaceuticals in Anti-Ageing and Skincare – Knowles (Aust)

Mr Daryll

IV Vitamins in Anti-ageing Medicine – Dr Ian Dettman (Aust) Oestrogen, testosterone, growth hormone, IGF-1, stem cells and cancer. How this complex dance governs ageing – Dr Michael Elstein (Aust)

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Genomics of the Skin and Hair – New Frontiers in Cosmetic Medicine – Dr Fernando Cortizo (Aust)

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The Hormonal Control of the Metabolic Syndrome – Dr Peter Tunbridge (Aust)

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Stem Cells and Plasma Rich Protein for Skin Rejuvenation – Dr Michael Zacharia (Aust) Chronic Fatigue and Fibromyalgia – Dr Tania Ash (Aust) Cortisol and thyroid hormone-why they are pivotal to the anti-ageing saga – Dr Michael Elstein (Aust) The combination of internal nutritional supplementation and external galvanics for optimum skin tightening – Dr Marilyn Golden (Aust)

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Sleep Basics – Mr Henry Oscieki (Aust)

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The Wiley Protocol – T.S Wiley (USA) Inflammation, insulin and hormone function – how these intersect to determine the journey that defines ageing – Dr Michael Elstein (Aust) Women, Beauty and Sleep – Mr Henry Oscieki (Aust) Stem Cells in Anti-ageing Medicine – Dr Bob Goldman (USA) BioplastyTM: A natural approach of cosmetic medicine – Dr Simo Fassi-Fihri (Aust) Demystifying weight loss – Dr Janethy Balakrishnan (Malaysia) TSH in anti-ageing – Dr Tessa Jones (NZ) Stem Cells in Skin Rejuvenation – Dr Janethy Balakrishnan (Malaysia) Ageing and Sleep – Mr Henry Oscieki (Aust) Environmental Toxins – How To Detoxify Yourself – Dr Selvam Rengasamy (Indonesia) Current use of threads for face lifting – Dr Michael Zacharia (Aust) The Limbic Diet – Dr Peter Bablis (Aust) Inflammation & Essential Fatty Acids – Quenching the Neuronal Fire with Oils –Dr Stephen Eddy (Aust)

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Health Reform — How Anti-Aeging medicine MUST change the current medical system – Dr Paul Bergamo (Aust)

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Difference between biodentical and synthetic hormones – Mr Daryll Knowles (Aust)

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Food Allergies vs Sensitivities – Mr Bill Anton (Aust)

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Dr Goldman will be speaking on “The brain as a muscle – how to achieve optimal brain performance”. He will also be speaking on “Stem Cells in Anti-Ageing Medicine”. He is the driving force behind the Anti-Ageing Medicine movement since 1997. He is the Co-founder and Chairman of the American Academy of Anti-Aging Medicine (A4M) and the International Medical Commission overseeing sports medicine committees in over 176 nations. He has served as a Special Advisor to the President's Council on Physical Fitness and Sports, and travels extensively around the world each year to raise awareness of Anti-Ageing Medicine and sports medicine programs. He is a black belt in karate, Chinese weapons expert, and world champion athlete with over 20 world strength records with a listing in the Guinness Book of World Records. Based in Chicago, Illinois, Dr Goldman is author of more than a dozen books, including ‘The Anti-Ageing Revolution’, ‘Stopping the Clock’, and ‘Brain Fitness’. You can order Dr Goldman’s books from the A5M Bookstore (www.a5m.net).

Your gut and your life; Make Them Work for You – Dr Daniel Weber (Aust)

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Robert Goldman, MD, PhD, DO, FAASP Chairman, World Anti-Aging Academy of Medicine (WAAAM), Chairman, American Academy of AntiAging Medicine (A4M), Advisory Board Member, AustralAsian Academy of Anti-Ageing Medicine (A5M), Olympic Sports, Fitness and Aging

Adrenal Fatigue – Dr Tania Ash (Aust) Neurotransmitters relevant to mood disorders – Ms Jenny Smith (Aust) Inflammation assessment and treatment options – Prof Bob Allan (Aust) Chelation Therapy and Heavy Metals – Prof Bob Allen (Aust)

Dr Gregory W. Petersburg Gregory Petersburg D.O is a popular international speaker and educator for physicians and the public about preventive-ageing medicine, also appearing on radio, television, and in various publications. He specialises exclusively in preventive-ageing medicine. Dr. Petersburg is the author and owner of the popular Living Younger Preventive-Aging Medicine & Business System and physician training programs. Widely used by preventiveageing practitioners across the U.S. and internationally, the Living Younger system provides the most comprehensive set of tools available for both the business and clinical practice of preventiveageing medicine. Additionally, Dr. Petersburg offers intensive hands-on training programs for preventive-ageing practitioners, and he is sought out as a ‘Designed Experience’ consultant to healthcare businesses seeking to design and create captivating patient and employee experiences. Dr Gregory Petersburg, D.O will run a full day workshop on “Starting your own successful Preventative-Ageing Practice” at the Conference. Transitioning to a profitable Preventive-Ageing business can be difficult. But with the right system and support it can be extremely rewarding. Dr Petersburg will show you how. The A5M Conference - “Changing Paradigms in Medicine” is an unparalleled local opportunity to network with leaders in the field and hear world expert speakers on internal, external and complementary Anti-Ageing Medicine. For further information and to book your attendance visit www.a5m.net or call 03 9813 0439. The Conference will be held 3-4 October at the Sofitel on Collins, Melbourne.


SPECIAL OFFER -

ONLINE REGISTRATON FOR APAN SUBSCRIBERS

MEDISPA WORKSHOP: EARN UP TO $500,000 PER MEDISPA ROOM! WITH MANON PILON

TO QUALIFY FOR A 10% DISCOUNT ON CONFERENCE REGISTRATION,QUOTE APAN10/09 WHEN REGISTERING ONLINE. This discount is not available with any other offers. Online Registrations only. Conditions apply.

Internationally recognised MediSpa expert, Manon Pilon will impart the secrets of her success and show you how to earn up to $500,000 per treatment room. The ‘MediSpa: Increasing Your Bottom Line’ Workshop, will give you the practical knowledge to establish and revitalise your MediSpa and increase your business profits. With more than 20 years of MediSpa expertise, Manon founded some of the world’s most successful MediSpas. She is a Medical Spa consultant, recognised educator, researcher, medical aesthetician, International Director of Education for “Derme.ca” and renowned author of the book entitled ‘Anti-Aging The Cure: Based on your Body Type’. This workshop is one of many highlights of the 3rd Annual Anti-Ageing and Aesthetic Medicine Conference hosted by the AustralAsian Academy of AntiAgeing Medicine (A5M). TOPICS INCLUDE: •

The Right Spa Equipment: Choosing the right equipment without over-capitalising

The Most Profitable Spa Services & Treatments: Where to focus your business attention for best returns

The Right Service Mix: Combining Anti-Ageing Medicine with MediSpa services to broaden your practice

Tips On The Most Profitable Spa Products: Choosing the products which serve you and your clients

Getting & Keeping The Right Team: Staffing for service and profitability

Marketing & Client Satisfaction: Attracting clients and keeping them coming back more often

Business Management Systems: How to keep it all running smoothly

SUNDAY OCTOBER 4 - 9.00AM – 5.00PM COST: $400 INCL GST

CHANGING PARADIGMS IN MEDICINE Join the world’s leading experts in Anti-Ageing & Aesthetic Medicine.

3RD ANNUAL AUSTRALASIAN ANTI-AGEING & AESTHETIC MEDICINE CONFERENCE 2009 October 3-4 Sofitel Melbourne on Collins Reserve your place now on www.a5m.net or call +61 3 9813 0439

MANON’S DUBAI WORKSHOP SOLD OUT BOOK EARLY!

“So many want to tap into this amazingly lucrative cash business, but how can it be done without losing your shirt? With the right training you can be earning up to $500,000 a year per Spa treatment room.” Manon Pilon World MediSpa expert and author of “Anti-Aging The Cure: Based on your Body Type”.


salon success

Gaining the Winning Formula “The more I want to get something done, the less I call it work.” Richard Bach Staying focused on your objectives is often a matter of the heart, and this is where inspiration can give you the motivation to stay on course on your road to success, whatever you perceive that to be. So for our first issue of the Aesthetics Practitioners Journal we trace the steps of an incredible lady and her achievements and trust that her story will fuel you with enthusiasm for what you are currently pursuing. As a young girl Katrina Gilligan suffered from acne and was on a quest to find answers, researching for the best solutions, and from there a spark of interest grew in solving skin problems. After completing Year 12 in Melbourne she enrolled at Melbourne University to do a teaching degree, but after 12 months deffered her studies to move to Queensland. However, her interest in skin therapy continued to draw her attention and she finally enrolled and completed a Diploma in Beauty Therapy in 1994 and started working in the industry. It was not until December 2000 that Katrina decided to take the plunge and buy her own salon business. Having accepted a role reversal with her husband who was to undertake the care of their children, she would now become the sole breadwinner - a challenge for any couple, let alone someone who was undertaking a new business, and a small one at that. The location was Burpengary, situated north of Brisbane on the outskirts of Caboolture, which is the closest main town. Burpengary mainly consists of small to medium family properties and is considered a fairly low socioeconomic region. Katrina did not want to take any risks so she purchased a medium-sized salon with six working rooms. The salon was operated by a solepractitioner with obviously very modest business activity bringing in takings from $800-$1200 a week and therefore on sale for an affordable price. Challenges followed and Katrina decided to consult a business coach to help her with some business strategies. Within 12

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months her turnover increased by 540% as she developed and implemented an extensive treatment menu delivered through excellent protocols and procedures. In 2002 Katrina’s Beauty Works entered the APAA’s Awards of Excellence and won SALON OF THE YEAR. The following year she launched a second salon and once again entered the awards. This time her new salon won BEST NEW ESTABLISHMENT. When questioned on how she achieved such quick success Katrina did not hesitate. “I always took good advice, however, I also did not hesitate to break with tradition in the way I conducted my marketing and my business. I tried different ways of doing things that I was told wouldn’t work – but they did work. Having said that, I can honestly say that my business did not grow on savvy marketing, but grew on treating each client as if they were the most important person in the world. The reason I put a lot of energy into my work is because I love this industry with a passion. I work very, very hard, but for me this is an enjoyable process. Our customer care is based on two principles – professionalism and genuine client care.” So how far has Katrina’s passion taken her? She currently owns 11 salons with a 12th opening in early July. She is the principal of two Government Approved training colleges that deliver training in hair, nails and beauty and she is also the owner of Salon Pacific Beauty Supplies – a product distribution company that services the professional beauty industry. The growth into the other areas of work was a result of necessity and opportunity. In 2005 the lease on her first salon expired and the owner had other plans to develop the area. She therefore had to make a quick decision as to where to relocate. The premises she found were perfect, but too large for just a salon. As she always had an interest in teaching and sharing her knowledge she saw the opportunity to introduce a training facility with the rest of the space. The college set out to deliver high standards of training at qualification levels and soon grew in reputation and in student numbers. It was not long after that the space


was no longer sufficient to accommodate the needs of the college and so she purchased new premises and custom-fitted it to accommodate a college with a six-cubicle student salon. As the college and the salon prospered so did the opportunity to open up further salons. With a strong belief in diversification and synergy Katrina identified her new move to undertake a product distribution company. With two colleges and 11 salons there was a need for quality control and accessibility of products and equipment that delivered consistent, high results. Currently Salon Pacific Beauty Supplies offers the industry a comprehensive range of salon accessory items and quality salon equipment and furniture. It also distributes BDazzled Teeth Whitening, Graft-a-Lash Lash Extensions, quality Lish waxes, great Body Wraps, a comprehensive range of nail polishes, spray tanning, Young Nails Gel and Acrylic products and they have just been appointed the Australian distributor of Bio Pacific Skincare – a quality skincare that offers salons excellent results. The value of networking Katrina did not hesitate to also acknowledge her success was due to the incredible support she gained from a professional and business women’s network – a group she had joined to network and learn from other business and professional women. Through this group she formed some valuable relationships with women from a diverse range of industries with whom she became friends and who championed her with encouragement and ideas on how to achieve her success. “I admire how these women helped and supported me, and did not hesitate to share their knowledge with me,” Katrina said. “It was great getting the wisdom of other businesswomen’s perspective. This is so important if we are to achieve in business.”

Operational strategies Constantly gaining knowledge, Katrina is quick to also indicate that she does not believe in concrete plans. “We are told that information now doubles every five years. It is therefore not realistic to stick to rigid plans. I believe in setting goals and aiming for targets, however, I am also open and flexible to review every opportunity that comes my way.” Katrina pauses, then continues, “Being very much a visionary, I love to tackle new challenges. I love to sow new seeds in the garden of life. Then I appoint others to grow the garden and look for new opportunities.” Reviewing her business journey, she continues, “I get calls all the time about salons for sale, and if it feels right, I investigate and decide what to do. I go very much with my intuition and how I evaluate the situation at the time. Sometimes we can think too much and look at all the obstacles, and in so doing miss the opportunities. I encourage others not to spend too much time working on the plan, but rather concentrate on making it happen,” she adds with conviction. When questioned about what advice would she give colleagues who are struggling with difficult economic times she covered several interesting points:

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Providers of winning products

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Excellence in client service – As your top priority, make sure that your clients get the very best of care each and every time they come to you. You should not only meet with their expectations, but also exceed them.

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The three key considerations – Make sure you constantly improve and refine these three areas: a. The quality of the treatments you deliver b. The courteous and professional way in which you deliver your services c. The professional and warm ambience you will welcome your client into

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Constantly do self-checks – On a regular basis ask yourself the following question, “If I was the client what would I really appreciate from my therapist?” I am always asking myself this, both for the salon and the colleges that I run. Constantly look at what you can improve on and how you can do things better.

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Diversify – Look for ways that you can diversify what you are doing and how you can grow your income stream. Don’t feel you must only stick to the one thing you do. If an opportunity arises consider its benefits, and if finances permit step out and take it on. This is how we grew – by responding to opportunities. Stepping out to establish our second salon was the hardest. Once we did that the others came easier.

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Keep tabs on your financial position – As much as opportunities will present themselves, don’t go the other way and take on anything that comes. Don’t get into too much debt. Expand as you can afford it.

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Mistakes – So you have made a mistake or a bad decision. Don’t camp around your disappointment and dwell on the negatives. It’s OK, learn the lesson and move on.

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Persevere – When things get tough don’t be quick to give up. Re-evaluate the situation and persevere. I have seen so many people miss opportunities because they gave up too quickly.

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Experience the strategies you develop – As much as possible trial, test and perform things you want to implement to determine how sound they are. You should not expect the staff to do something that you are not prepared to do.

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Value your staff – No business can succeed without great staff. Select your staff carefully, train them well and value their contribution. With opportunity, promote them to higher positions.

Salon Pacific Beauty Supplies is excited to announce the introduction of a skincare range to its already extensive range of products, as well as being the exclusive Australian distributor of both Bio Pacific Skincare and Lish Products. They are also distributors of the Young Nails Acrylic & Gel system.

Other items in our catalogue include: Wax & Wax Accessories Equipment Linen Body Products & Brushes Polishes & Preps Disposables salon items Teeth Whitening Lash Extensions & Perming

! ! ! ! ! ! ! !

Why Choose Bio Pacific Skincare? If you are looking for a skincare range that works, as well as a company that provides you with great training and support, then look no further than Bio Pacific Skincare. Bio Pacific is a professional skincare line that delivers “seriously great results” for your clients. Bio Pacific began in 1980 and is distributed in many countries globally. The skincare range offer s solutions for all skin types and conditions, including Acne, Pigmentation, Scarring, Eczema, Psoriasis and Aged Skin. Bio Pacific Skincare is only available in Australia through professional beauty salons or specialist skin centres and is not sold through department stores or pharmacies.

Email: info@salonpacific.com.au Visit www.salonpacific.com.au to view our product selection.

The future So what is in store for Katrina? Her answer to this question was that only time would tell. With the support of her husband who undertakes the financial side of the business and her children who are there to help as well, Katrina’s future seems bright. Taking one step at a time she is slowly building the life she loves and always wanted. “Despite our growth, now I can finally take Saturdays off to enjoy and be with my family.” In closing, Katrina was adamant to state that success did not come easy. There were many setbacks and challenges that she and her family had to work through. But lessons were learnt, while she gained wisdom from the experience that has allowed her to develop into the astute and highly successful businesswoman that she is today.

Mention this ad and when you place an order you will receive one of our wonderful Natural Body Brushes absolutely FREE.

For further information visit www.katrinas.com.au or www.salonpacific.com.au

SALON PACIFIC BEAUTY SUPPLIES Phone: 1300 651 439

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DIXON TECHNIQUE – Nine Steps to Success for a more beautiful Cosmetic Tattoo If you are performing cosmetic tattooing there is now a new and better way of performing your procedures. The Dixon Technique with sloped needles offers you the freedom to perform your Cosmetic Tattooing procedures with greater ease and precision. Now you can use one specifically designed sloped needle for lining, shading, graduated hair strokes, pointillism, marking, as a single needle and “power tapping” as a hand tool.

What is the Dixon Technique? The Dixon Technique is a revolutionary new method founded by the President of the American Academy of Micro Pigmentation, Dr. Linda Dixon, which allows Cosmetic Tattoo practitioners to: ! Implant more colour into the skin faster, reducing discomfort and pain. ! Maintain uniformity by implanting colour into the skin at the same level, producing a consistent and smooth blanket of colour. ! Work more easily and achieve better results than standard techniques with curved surfaces. All this is achievable by using one very clever little 5-slope twoinch needle

Seeing is believing The Dixon Technique is an invention that undoubtedly should be considered by all Cosmetic Tattooist practitioners. The Technique is nothing like you’ve ever seen before, and will change the way you view and perform Cosmetic Tattooing into the future. The Technique offers a more effective way of placing colour into the curves of the skin, taking less time to complete your procedure and resulting in truer colours, and ultimately, happier clients. Additionally, you can achieve beautiful lips, brows, thick, smudgy or smoky eyeliner and nipple areola with less discomfort and trauma to the skin, resulting in less swelling.

The Technique inserts colour into the skin at a consistent angle and depth, which leaves more pigment in the skin. This is achieved by using both a special needle and a custom- designed tip. The needles slide through the Stratum Corneum of the epidermis to the top layer of the dermis and deposits pigment in a layer, like a velvet blanket of colour. What makes this needle and technique so incredible is that you can use the needle not one or two ways, but eight different ways. Imagine working on the Cupid’s bow with a needle stroke that looks like a windshield wiper pattern, yet you can use the same needle to make a graduated hair stroke. When performing areola re-pigmentation, colours are delivered smoothly, while your needle will, at the same time, soften scars. Lips are now even coloured with a velvet shimmer-look finish. The Dixon Technique is an amazingly fast method of depositing pigment into the skin.

DIXON TECHNIQUE WORKSHOP Invest in your professional development with confidence. For your Newsletter and information on upcoming Workshop Bookings on the Dixon Technique within Australia contact: Lyn Quade — Principal AUSTRALIAN INSTITUTE OF INTRADERMAL MICROPIGMENTATION MEDICAL & COSMETIC TATTOO

Dr. Craig Layt’s Clinic (Plastic Surgeon) Suite 1, AHC House 14 Carrara Street Benowa Q

For further enquiries phone 07 5597 4100 or 0466 111 488 Email info@permanentmakeupaustralia.com.au www.dixontechnique.com

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salon business

Salon Retail Strategies - Show me the Money by Caroline Nelson During the well-known 1996 movie Jerry Maguire actor Tom Cruise uttered the now famous words “Show me the money”. And at present during what are shaping up to be a couple of very tough years for all business owners, we need to develop new strategies that will have more customers showing us their money. As an industry-specific business coach I am currently working with numerous salons and spas advising them on ways for their businesses to not only survive, but to thrive during these tough times. And so to help you, in this article I would like to discuss ways to maximise each customer’s spend. One of the biggest concerns at present is the fact that in bad economic times many of our customers cut back on their number of salon visits. Therefore if we are getting fewer customers through the door we have to make the most out of the ones we do get. Increasing retail sales is one way your salon or spa will be able to weather the financial storm. This may well mean you need to develop new or additional operational strategies and establish an action plan to maximise sales. This would need to be supported by specific staff retail and customer service training.

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What is your current share of Skincare Retail Sales? We all know that consumers buy and use skincare. The trouble is that not a very large amount is purchased through our professional salons and spas. In fact, recent independent focus group findings conducted by Covertrue Pty Ltd for a (Indio) leading Australian professional skincare company, came up with some not too surprising findings. “The majority of (Australian) women are still buying skincare from the sales staff on the department store counters” the report stated. These finding make sense when you consider that department store ‘prime real estate’ is main entry ground floor occupied by cosmetics and skin care. In fact the report statics showed: ! 10% of women were buying from the shopping channel ! 10 % of women were buying from pharmacies or grocery stores ! 20% of women were buying over the Internet ! 20% of women were buying from their aesthetician/therapist in the salon ! But as previously mentioned the majority are buying from the sales staff of the department stores


It was reported that many customers go back to the same salesperson each time – because the salesperson gave excellent customer service and had taken the time to develop a relationship. They knew the salesperson was not a professional aesthetician. However, as they were seen to be well groomed and informative with their information, customers were happy to return to them as they felt they were getting value for money. In addition, they particularly appreciated the gift with purchase available with many of the department store skincare. These findings reinforce what I have been saying for years that our largest competitor is the department store and the reasons are: 1. 2.

3.

4. 5.

They give importance to their merchandise by attractively positioning in the prime location They employ well-groomed salespeople, whom they then highly train in the products they will be selling. These salespeople are then happy to impart this knowledge to customers They also train these salespeople in customer service, the art of good communication and the ways to successful develop an ongoing relationship with their customers The products stocked are very effectively marketed to the general public by way of media release and consumer advertising They still very successfully employ the old, but tried and true “gift with purchase”

The free gift bags GWP contain numerous trial-size items of products customers are likely to use and benefit by. The department stores from vast experience have learnt that this is one of the surest ways to introduce new products to the customer. If the customer likes the results they will most likely purchase the retail size once the trial size is used up. So if your skincare supplier offers sample or trial- sizes make good use of them because they do lead to ongoing sales. Department stores are Power Retailers who pay experts to advise them of customer buying trends. So if you want to increase your retail sales copy their ideas and transfer them into your business. Start by visiting a department store cosmetic counter and listen and learn. The one thing I can guarantee is that you will be amazed at just how knowledgeable the salesperson will be about the products they sell. They will know all the incredible benefits of the “super ingredients” each product contains. This information will always be delivered in a very enthusiastic almost zealous manner. And I can tell you from experience that even I with over 38 years in the aesthetic industry will almost be convinced to buy these wonder creams. The reason is department store salespeople live and breathe their products. They are very well groomed because they religiously use the products they recommend and sell. The department stores realise that if you provide your salespeople with ample products then they will use them and will soon become zealous retail ambassadors. In addition, observe how product displays are positioned, posters are displayed and even how traffic is directed through the store to funnel customers past new product offerings. Make sure you take the best advantage of available retailing salon space, remembering it must be well lit and like the department store placed to capture customer attention. Your Salon Staff must become Skincare Ambassadors For salon staff to successfully retail skincare products they must have a strong belief in the products they recommend. They must be excited by the results the products offer and enthusiastic about the opportunity of improving their customer’s skin 24/7 and not just during salon visits. For this to happen they need to know the products ‘in-side out’ and ‘back-to-front’. No excuses. The first step is to make retail sales part of the job description of each employee – no ifs, buts or maybes. It must be part of the job description that every team member must retail. Ideally before you hire staff this requirement should be clear – for existing staff it must now become the way of the future and one of the ways to beat the recession.

Now that you have established that retailing is part of the overall business plan you must support your team in all ways possible to reach both the salon and their individual retail targets. This requires developing your team’s communication and selling skills. While not everyone on your team will be born sales people, with guidance all can learn the fundamentals that will vastly improve their selling abilities. The key to encouraging your team to retail is to help them build their confidence and the way to do that is through education – product knowledge, analysing skills and communication and people skills. Product knowledge goes hand in hand with personal experience. Like the department store salespeople all your employees must be using and enjoying the benefits of the products they hope to sell. If they know and love the products they will be excited to share this information with their clients and customers. But it goes even further. If you truly want to build a powerful retailing team you will need to invest in additional education and advanced diagnostic tools and methods. Your team not only needs the underpinning education of skin structure, skin types and conditions, but they need a thorough understanding of skincare product ingredients, their benefits and the results the customer can expect. Knowledge is a very powerful selling tool, and the more knowledge the better equipped they will be to make the sale. If you have any “I’m an aesthetician not a salesperson” on your team now is the time to correct this attitude. You simply cannot afford to employ such people in this economy. Your employees must realise that being good at performing treatments is not enough during these tough times. They must be made aware of how critically important “Retailing” is to the success and viability of the business and even their ongoing employment. Training our aestheticians to Communicate in a Meaningful Way Connecting with the customer and offering excellent customer service is another key to increasing sales. Any salon that wants to increase retail sales must invest in training programs that teach good communication skills – the reason is that not everyone possesses such skills. But they can be acquired. Listening and understanding the customer and then having the ability and expertise to educate him/her about the products is essential to retail sales. The value-added that the customer receives is the analysing of their skin and the expert prescribing skills, which is just not available from over-the-counter department store skincare products. Encouraging your aestheticians to upsell related skincare products that will improve the skin solution outcome not only increases the sale, but more importantly, services the customers’ needs and also value-adds. To be sold any skincare the customer must be persuaded of the benefits the products will offer, which makes it essential that all staff have a thorough and complete understanding of the ingredients of each product. Your business can weather the current economic downturn, but it will need the combined effort of your business and leadership skills, the full commitment of every employee and the complete support of your skincare suppliers.

Caroline Nelson is a beauty industry specific business coach specialising in helping salon and spa owners to get the very best performance from their teams. Her easy to implement marketing and promotional methods have helped build profitable businesses for hundreds of business owners throughout Australia and New Zealand. She also conducts the renowned Beauty Business Management Masterclasses in capital cities. For further information on how Caroline’s expertise can help grow your business please contact her on 0410 600 440 or www.nelsonbeautybusinessmanagement.com

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product releases Zesty Cellular Repair Serum The Zesty Cellular Serum from the Clinical Skincare with A Natural Difference range is the perfect accompaniment to any exfoliation procedure. It is also recommended for home use for your clients as it helps build on treatment results. This repair serum contains wheat and soy protein to protect cells from photo-damage, while boosting collagen to reduce the visible signs of ageing. It soothes and reduces irritation to sensitive skin, and works as an antioxidant to help prevent free radical damage.

Getting your brand name out there Vogue Plastic Emery Board in clear pouch featuring both fine and coarse sides and features a protective clear tape personalised with your unique branding (name and contact details). This year’s best value promotional gift idea is the $1 pink nail file with personalised print. Fantastic practical gift for your clients, perfect for keeping in their purse or for a marketing campaign to gain new customers. Beauty specialist promo supplier, 4CP, will clearly print your details on 250 or more.

Additional information and other budget ideas please click on ‘waynes picks’ at www.4cp.com.au or for a free sample email wayne@4cp.com.au or phone 07 5442 3341

CSHE Australia 1800 628 999

MultiPurpose Rejuvenating Gel MisMo Rejuvenating Gel is an ultra-concentrated biopeptide serum developed to improve skin tone and elasticity at a cellular level. It contains a high percentage of hyaluronic acid for its superhydrating properties, MSM to aid in product penetration and Aloe Vera to soothe the skin of any irritations. MisMo Rejuvenating Gel is an excellent conducting gel for micro-currents or photorejuvenation treatments, and when combined with MisMo Moisturiser or MisMo Nourishing Cream it offers long-lasting results in skin renewal, enhancing the tone of the skin, while minimising the appearance of lines and wrinkles. MisMo products have been successfully used in medical aesthetic clinics after invasive procedures as well as through skin therapy salons. These quality Australian products rival many products in terms of results, yet are often less than half their cost. MisMo skin-treatment products are affordable and effective and suit all skin types and conditions.

For enquiries phone Irene 0403 834 400 MisMo Body Care.

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Magnesium Chloride – the Body’s Power Point The effects of stress and ‘burn out’ cause skin problems, premature ageing, hormone imbalance, low metabolism and even serious diseases. Nervous exhaustion arises in all cases of magnesium deficiency. As the body consumes more magnesium under stress and our food supply is now magnesium deficient, it’s nearly impossible to get enough with diet alone. Magnesium chloride is the most bio-available form of magnesium and is safely absorbed transdermally. Dissolved Elektra Magnesium Mineral Bath Flakes are ideal for a detox foot soak, body spray/rub, mouthwash and

For information and orders contact Elektra Life Phone 07 55331088 or visit www.elektralife.com compress.

500g jar $30.80.


A world first spray tan from

NAKED TAN All Natural – No Alcohol – No Parabens – No Odours The creator of the world’s first 2-hr wash-n-wear spray tan, Naked Tan spray tanning solution is botanically based with a vanilla coconut aroma. Your clients’ skin will develop a bronzed natural tan that can be washed in two hours, allowing them that extra time to fit in with their busy lifestyle. By providing this service you can build a loyal clientele with a leading product that is second to none. Phone Naked Tan on

1300 365 683 or visit Stand 3107 at the Sydney International Beauty Expo.www.nakedtan.com.au

New product – launched from NATURAL COMPATIBLES Natural Compatibles’ makeup compact casing is the ultimate environmentally friendly packaging system for keeping your favourite shadows neat and tidy and all together. You can easily clip in all your NC eye shadows, shadow liners, blush, brow powder, bronzers and even your brushes into one nice easy palette. Natural Compatibles is a versatile range of quality makeup suitable for every woman and every occasion. Their makeup philosophy is based on principles of art in enhancing one’s appearance, so colours don’t change from season to season, although accent colours are introduced. The Natural Compatibles’ technique is called Feature Focussing™ and highlights and defines the two main communicating features of the face - eyes and lips. Natural Compatibles is a trusted quality Australian brand that has been established since 1992. It boasts many makeup awards, due not only to the skills of makeup artists, but also the incredible finishes that truly enhances one’s appearance through the quality of the product that delivers perfection each and every time. Natural Compatibles is a truly professional brand that is only sold through salons, clinics and spas. Phone 03 9764 0966 or visit Stand 2918, Sydney International Beauty Expo

Violet Glaze is the colourchampioning cartoon heroine of Operation Colour, a new collection from China Glaze. Entering the world from her Pink Underground, Violet (code name Agent Lavender) plans to launch a Revolution, one bottle of polish at a time against hue-hating villains – The Removers. They want to wipe away shades while Violet struggles to set things bright. She sees a Golden Opportunity when a Secret Peri-Winkle is passed to her letting her know The Removers, the wicked lacquer attackers, are on the move. Code Orange! Time for Violet to get busy with Revolution, Code Orange, Golden Opportunity, Pink Underground, Secret Peri-Winkle and Agent Lavender. China Glaze offers excitement in colours presented in a formula that is Free of DBP, Toluene and added Formaldehyde and containing China Clay as a nail hardener. All China Glaze lacquers are designed for maximum performance, great coverage, while the

CHINA GLAZE Operation Colour Let the Revolution Begin

2B Bio Serum 02 for improved skin oxygenation We all know the importance of oxygen for cell renewal and metabolism as well as for detoxification, and the skin as the largest organ in the body greatly benefits from optimum oxygenation. 2B Bio Serum 02 incorporates Perfluorodecalin – a molecule that raises the level of oxygen in the skin to enhance cellular metabolism and support the integrity of collagen. The results are smoother, firmer-looking skin with a restored, youthful glow.

Contact Patricia Mangano, Patou Aesthetics Australia Ph: 07 4057 8365.

Call Hawley on (02) 8667 1700 or visit www.hawley.net.au. 220-strand brush gives ease of application.

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HAWLEY’S New Instructional DVDs Build your professional foundation, perfect your technique or upgrade your current skills with the new Hawley International advanced tutorial DVDs for Illume Acrylic Enhancement and Hawley UV Gel Systems. Each DVD is a comprehensive step-by-step guide to precise and easy application, under the expert instruction of Paula Shone-Adams, National Educator. The DVDs include the correct use of products and product consistency and provide a clear and thorough training guide with tips and advice. The DVDs came about as a result of the need for a tool to further enhance and update skills already learnt from Hawley training and educational seminars led by Paula Shone-Adams. Hawley will be adding other useful information and tutorials to complement this first edition that can be utilised by nail technicians at all levels and will help further their skills and knowledge in manicure/pedicure. The DVDs are part of the exclusive Professional Illume Kit package or

For more information please call Hawley International (02) 8667 1700, email info@hawley.net.au or visit www.hawley.net.au. can be purchased separately.

illume Step-by-step guide for a professional finish for every nail service Delivering a star treatment to clients means choosing the correct professional products and making sure you know how to get the most from them. Hawley has cleverly put together their new illume Enhancement Manual to ensure all nail professionals and their staff deliver an exceptional service, every time. Complimentary with the purchase of any of the Illume Enhancement Kits (Professional, Application and Starter Kits), this comprehensive manual is a must-have to help maximise the salon’s bottom line and client satisfaction, while maintaining an overall consistency of protocol and a high level of performance. The manual includes precise explanations and clear visuals that will take you through each step to streamline the service, answer any

To find out more contact Hawley on (02) 8667 1700, email info@hawley.net.au or visit www.hawley.net.au.

questions, while also including professional handcare products.

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Zesty Key Lime Masque Are you looking for a powerful tool that will give zest to an ageing skin, while also detoxifying and assisting in the cellular renewal process? Look no further than the Zesty Orange De-ageing Range from A Natural Difference. This range offers incredible benefits in cleansing and detoxifying the skin, leaving it looking radiant. The Key Lime Masque also supplies the skin with essential nutrients, and because it hydrates and revitalises the epidermis, signs of ageing are visibly reduced. The Zesty Orange De-ageing Range is available for in-salon use and homecare from

CSHE Australia

1800 628 999.

Introducing Alpha-H’s NEW Age Delay Intensive Eye & Lip Treatment Cream Natural Flower Acids extracted from pure crushed Hibiscus Petals gently refine and resurface the eyes and lip contours, minimising the appearance o f c r o w ’s f e e t a n d h y p e r pigmentation, while promoting cell renewal to give the skin a more lustrous, youthful appearance. It has been proven that Flower Acids increase cell turnover as they contain a unique mixture of organic acids and are substantially more moisturising than Lactic Acid. Age Delay Intensive Eye & Lip Treatment Cream is ideal for skin showing the signs of stress, dehydration or ageing around the eyes and lips. RRP: $69.95 Size: 20ml.

For further information contact Alpha-H on 1800 659 777 or visit www.alpha-h.com.


jane iredale launches Cool Beauty

SPICE up your spa menu with GERMAINE de CAPUCCINI If you are looking to spice up your spa menu then look no further than Germaine de Capuccini. Offering exotic treatments that will transport your clients to a place of pure bliss. These include Exotic Ceylon Shell Massage, Mysterious Turkish Massage with silk foulard, or Majestic Golden Body Treatment with Thai Pinda massage that will leave your clients totally relaxed at a very deep level. The Exotic Ceylon Shell Massage delivers a therapeutic heat, which is slowly released through heated shells for a completely new body experience. Carried out with a cinnamon delight massage oil, and a combination of massage shells, this multisensory therapy works on energy points to escort the body into a deep state of relaxation. Mysterious Turkish Massage with a Silk Foulard alleviates stress, eases aching muscles and revives the senses with this exclusive body treatment. The treatment starts with a mist of teak in the air and a relaxing starting ritual with saffron massage oil. The therapist then moves from head to toe stretching each muscle with a three-metre silk sheet before delivering an enjoyable deep massage with a unique massage stick on the back, neck and shoulders. These and other unique treatments from Germaine de Capuccini will make your treatments the talk of the town.

Contact Germaine de Capuccini on 1300 432 100 or visit www.germaine-de-capuccini.com.au

Inspired by crystal waters, Cool Beauty’s aqua shades are right on trend with international runway makeup, as seen on the catwalk for Gucci SS09. Azure-hued eye shadows and uplifting colours are complemented by delicate pink and nude lips for a soft complexion reminiscent of summer beach days and balmy breezes. With jane iredale’s Cool Beauty colour collection there’s no need to compromise health for beauty. Containing natural ingredients, including a highly sophisticated blend of minerals and pigments that deliver on beauty, while promoting gorgeous, glowing skin. Eyeshadows are enriched with algae extracts to soothe and hydrate delicate skin, while rice starch ensures skin is shine-free all day. The collection also includes Limited Edition MiniMatte Finish Powder and Azure PurePressed Triple Eye Shadow. Aquamarine 24-Karat Gold Dust – a delicate shimmer powder using mica to make eyes sparkle. Pinot Noir Liquid EyeLiner with dense, bright pigments. Finish off with either Erin & Julia PureMoist LipColour - fortified with jojoba and grape seed extracts to

Visit jane iredale at Stand 2508 and 2607 at the Sydney International Beauty Expo, or Stand 5 at the Australian Anti-Ageing & Aesthetic Medicine Conference. Phone 1300 850 008.

soothe and condition the lips, and edible zinc for SPF protection.

CALMITUDE – the answer to sensitive and irritated skin Did you know that when sensitive skin becomes irritated, often in the deeper layers of the skin, invisible inflammation can set in, encouraging the production of free radicals that cause wrinkles and skin-ageing? That is why sensitive and inflamed skin conditions often age more rapidly. It is also a statistical fact that over 60 per cent of adults claim they have sensitive skin. This is often due to genetics, lifestyle or diet as well as the use of over-aggressive exfoliators that can trigger sensitivity. Bioelements has introduced a highly effective sensitive skin line – Calmitude that includes a Sensitive Skin Moisturiser and Hydrating Solution, to complement their ever-popular Sensitive Skin Cleanser. Both are formulated with a biologically advanced blend of desensitising extracts, including anti-inflammatory herbs and antioxidants. The Calmitude Hydrating Solution contains ultra-calming white tea and liquorice root extract and will instantly relieve dehydration, soothe and calm the skin and protect against environmental irritations. The formula also contains Olive Oil, which is loaded with polyphenols – natural antioxidants that can help heal and soothe the skin, even after too much sun exposure. Calmitude Sensitive Skin Moisturiser will further support the skin, increase hydration and calm irritations, reducing redness and sensitivity, while strengthening the skin’s protective barrier.

Call ABSOLUTE SPA on 03 9464 4466 for Calmitude and other highly effective product formulations from Bioelements.

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PurePressed® Base Pioneering mineral makeup brand jane iredale has launched a new environmentally friendly compact for their award-winning PurePressed Base mineral foundation. With almost 540,000 units sold in the US alone each year, the move to a ‘green’ compact will see the makeup brand marry its passion for natural skin nurturing mineral cosmetics with an ongoing commitment to eco-friendly production practices. After experimenting with different materials, jane iredale are converting to anodised aluminium. Anodised aluminium has been called the ‘green’, or environmentally friendly finish, as the anodising process releases few toxins into the environment, uses almost no heavy metals, and uses chemicals and metals that are recycled easily and non-toxic. Additionally, the compact clamshells will be bar coded with all product detail printed on the outer surface, further eliminating the need for additional print materials.

Contact Margifox Distributors 1300 850 008 www.janeiredale.com

Ionzyme C-Quence gains Swiss Vitamin Certification Environ Skin Care has been leading the way in advanced vitamin skin therapy for almost two decades and now has the official tick of approval, receiving an endorsement from the Swiss Vitamin Institute. The most luxurious of the range, the Ionzyme C-Quence Gels now carry the Swiss Vitamin Institute logo and is the first skincare range in its native country of South Africa to do so. Founded in 1931, the Lausanne-based Institute was established to research the ‘normal’ vitamin content requirements in order to maintain healthy levels in the body, whether it be skin, body functioning, food or skincare. The Ionzyme C-Quence Gels were tested to verify that they contain the vitamin strength and therefore guarantee the active efficacy specified by Environ Skin Care. The Environ C-Quence range includes Gels (in varying strengths), Crème, Toner and Eye Gel. Contact Margifox Distributors

Phone 1300 850 008.

Perfect Toenails Feet can sometimes be ugly, but now with DESIGNER TOENAILS you can enhance the appearance not only of your client’s face, but also of their feet and toenails. With Designer Toenails they will be impressed at how wonderful their feet can look. Designer Toenails are so easy to use, and, are entirely natural looking. Your clients will love this thin, comfortable product. Professional-strength nails that last up to two weeks and come in a wide range of styles, from beautiful, glossy colours to glitter, pink, white and floral, geometric and star designs. The are so beautiful and just look like natural nails. Designer Toenails are available through The Salons Group 1800 655 814. Designs can also be viewed and purchased on line at www.salonsgroup.com Distributor and Retailer enquiries are welcomed.

Dot the i™ We’ve all been there. Maybe it was a late night at the office, or partying until the wee hours of the morning, or getting caught in the rain. In any case, panda eyes are not a good look! With jane iredale’s newest beauty breakthrough, you can quickly remove unsightly smudges. Dot the i is a handy pack of pre-measured, one-time-use eye makeup remover swabs containing a gentle botanical formula that is alcohol-free and safe for contact lens wearers and sensitive eyes. Containing lavender, flower water, algae extracts, aloe leaf extract, oat kernel extract, radish root extract and amino acids, Dot the i is ideal for home, travel or to throw in your purse – no spills and no mess.

Contact Margifox Distributors Phone 1300 850 008. APJ 78


Maintaining a clean environment Respiratory Blend is a special essential oil blend formulated by AromaNexus exclusively for salon and spas. It contains a unique blend of several Eucalyptus oils, Peppermint Mitchum, Tea Tree, Organic French Lavender and Geranium oils that offer protection against bacteria and viruses when vaporised, diffused or added to your essential oil burner. Respiratory Blend is a very pleasant-smelling oil and can be used as a fullbody massage to further support the immune system. It can also offer relief for sinus congestion or for individuals who are allergy-prone. Respiratory Blend can also be inhaled prior to a treatment, included in a sauna or a Far infrared detox box to assist with respiratory ease, and is also a wonderful travel companion for those who fly regularly to protect them from the effects of environmental pollution.

For further information contact 07 5593 0360.

Enjoy the purity and ambience of 100% Soy Candles

Why spoil the wonderful ambience you have created in your salon or spa through the use of candles that emit toxic fumes? Now with Exquisite Ambience Candles you can be assured of 100 per cent pure soy candles that last twice as long as standard candles and are available in beautiful natural aromas for a lingering nostalgia. Not only are they great for your salon or spa, but they also make a wonderful retail item that clients can take home to recapture your signature experience. Available in a variety of aromas, the latest to be included in the collection is Zesty Lime – a fresh lime aroma that is uplifting. These candles are available in several sizes and shapes including tea lights. Other aromas include Bulgarian Rose, Crème Brulee, Vanilla, Honeysuckle, Frangipani, Mango and Melon, Mocha and Chocolate. Exquisite Ambience Candles are manufactured exclusively for salon and spas and for a small cost you can include your own label and contact details, making them another excellent marketing tool with a retail margin of 80-100 per cent.

Phone 07 5593 0360 for further details.

SYNERGYAGE FASHION NAILS – the easy way to increase your profits Not everyone wants to incur the long-time commitment of acrylic or gel nails. But everyone has a moment or a special event when they need to look their very best. This is where FASHION NAILS offer a fashionable, fuss-free nail enhancement as a perfect complement without consuming too much time. Fashion Nails are a desirable accessory for Bridal parties, Birthdays, Debutantes balls – in fact, any special occasions. To add dollars to your bottom line you need to be offering popular services that can be completed quickly and can complement other services such as facial treatments, Make-up and Hairdressing. FASHION NAILS are odour free and require no filing and are considered the most profitable nail enhancement system on the market. The cost for a complete set of nails is approximately $3 fitted, or, retail the packs for a healthy profit margin. FASHION NAILS offer a wide selection of pink and white, and floral airbrushed designs in economical 120pc pack sizes. A perfect, temporary, full coverage nails

Fashion Nails are available through The Salons Group 1800 655 814. Designs can be viewed and purchased online at www.salonsgroup.com Distributor and Retailer enquiries are welcomed. system.

Treatment products to support photo-rejuvenation treatments Germaine de Capuccini, a pioneer in photo-rejuvenating treatments, combines the most modern technology of photo-rejuvenating equipment with an exclusive line of skincare treatments called SYNERGYAGE. Synergyage products consist of a line of advanced formulations development to work synergistically with photo-rejuvenating techniques to achieve maximum results. Synergyage will work to optimise and accelerate the results obtained with a skin-rejuvenating process, helping the skin to recover more rapidly after the treatment. Synergyage products not only will provide nourishment and essential ingredients for the skin, but will also help to soothe, hydrate, protect and regenerate it after the treatment. The line contains lupeol, tetrapeptides, hyaluronic acid and essential vitamins in a multilamellar ceramide complex. They erase the appearance of wrinkles, provide firmness and generally improve the look and

Contact Germaine de Capuccini on 1300 432 100 or visit www.germaine-de-capuccini.com.au

quality of the skin.

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Ultrasonic Anion Aroma Diffuser 5-in-1 Fuctions The Ultrasonic Anion Aroma Diffuser is the ultimate environmentally friendly item to include in your treatment rooms, as well as retail it to your clients. It offers five incredible functions including: Aroma Diffuser – Advanced ultrasonic waves diffuse water with essential oils into tiny molecules and produce a very fine, delicate mist releasing the essential oils in their purest form to enhance their aromatherapy properties. As a Purifier/Ioniser it improves air quality through the release of Anions, which can remove harmful substances that contribute to allergies. Humidifier – through ultrasonic waves it enhances necessary air moisture levels to combat the drying effects on the skin from airconditioning. Switch the lights off in your treatment room and allow the Aroma Diffuser to create a soothing and relaxing Night Lamp effect to further enhance your client’s treatment experience. Aroma Diffuser is capable of servicing up to 50 square metres and also comes with a cut-off safety feature when it runs out of water. Boutique essentials oils to be used with it are also available. For further information contact

Athena Zolis at Essentials in-a-box, the sole agents for Ultrasonic Anion Aroma Diffuser, mobile: 0433 536 669 Ph: 03 9639 1999 or visit www.in-abox.com.au. Visit stand No. 3604 at the Sydney International Beauty Expo to view these products.

AVST™ - the advanced antioxidant and Vitamin A formulation The Environ AVST™ range utilises advanced technology to bring you the cosmetic of the future. Adopting a scientific approach, the AVST™ formula recognises the normal physiology of skin as the gateway for encouraging normal skin-cell behaviour. The combination of Vitamin A, powerful antioxidants and flavonoids helps to restore skin cells for a more youthful-looking complexion with a smoother texture and a radiant, healthy glow. “Environ AVST (Advanced Vitamin Skin Therapy) has without doubt become the gold standard for scientific skincare in the new millennium, because it addresses the critical factors in skincell communication, repair, rejuvenation and damage prevention,” confirms Ernst Eiselen, Medical Advisor, Environ Skin Care. Environ AVST™ comes in a 50ml airless pump dispenser. Recommended retail prices start at $75. For more information contact Margifox

Distributors 1300 850 008 or visit www.margifox.com.au

GO 30 – the ultimate Prescription Nails Belmacil - Luscious lash tints with a marvellous margin Belmacil will launch its new look and colours this year at the Sydney International Beauty Expo. Now with 11 rich, luxurious colours in the range to choose from – Black, Blue Black, Dark Brown, Light Brown, Honey Brown, Graphite, Blue, Violet, Blonde and two NEW exciting colours – Red and Green. Red is great for clients that have auburn, burgundy or any other shades of red-brown hair. You can tint the eyebrows with Belmacil Red to achieve the perfect look for your client, or mix with a little brown if desired, to customise to your client’s individual needs. Green is an exciting new colour that they have had many requests for. This colour looks great on blondes, and people with blue, green or brown eyes. You can always mix in a little Belmacil black to add more definition with a green shimmer for your clients with darker hair. You may notice that there are some changes to the way Belmacil looks when it is mixed and processed, however, you can still expect the same excellent results that Belmacil has always delivered. Belmacil is a superior tint for professional use only. Its unique Swiss formula gives you more colour depth and longer-lasting results, while the new larger tubes with an incredible 180 applications per tube are now more profitable than ever. Ex-Import Niche Products Ph: 07 5576 6388 or

email: info@belmacil.com web: www.belmacil.com APJ 80

For fast application, odour-free, strong and long-lasting GO30 Prescription Nails offers a full professional alternative to acrylic, gel or wraps. Prescription Nails are the ultimate in nail enhancements and are supplied exclusively to salons and technicians who have joined the GO30 t r a i n i n g p r o g r a m . For more information about this specialised product, visit www.go30nails.com to view the FREE LOOK DVD or phone The Salons Group 1800 655 814. Distribution restrictions apply.


MisMo is an Australian niche brand known as the s p ecialis ts o f n ich e quality skincare products, developed to offer the very best results in skin treatments. One example is the MisMo A-C-E Vitamin Serum that fortifies the skin with high levels of essential antioxidants for improved skin texture and tone, as well as to support the integrity of collagen. Available only to salons and aesthetic medical clinics, the MisMo A-C-E Vitamin Serum has been successfully used as a treatment serum. Great results have also been achieved when just one pump is added to a facial treatment mask for additional vitamin and anti-oxidant benefits. Containing high-quality Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate (vitamin C), Retinyl Palmitate (vitamin A) and Vitamin E, MisMo A-C-E Vitamin Serum is a powerful antioxidant serum, which works to reverse the appearance of ageing skin as well as protect against further sun damage. This particular type of Vitamin C has excellent penetration capabilities so results are evident very quickly. The formulation is a light oil serum, which is stable for 12-18 months. Being Australian made it is highly affordable – incredible value at

Antioxidant A-C-E Vitamin Serum

Livingstone’s Disposable Latex, Vinyl & Nitrile Gloves Livingstone International is a manufacturer and distributor of high-quality, cost-affordable disposable gloves with more than 24 years of experience. Latex gloves are made of natural rubber, extremely lightweight and have excellent tactile sensitivity. Vinyl gloves are made from non-latex material and are skin friendly. Nitrile gloves are four times stronger than latex and vinyl and are skin friendly. All gloves are available as Powder

For a personalised quote contact Livingstone International on 1300 557 $39.00 for 55mls. For enquiries phone Irene 0403 834 400 557, email beauty@livingstone.com.au or visit MisMo Body Care. www.livingstone.com.au.

Free and Low Powdered.

Improve oxygen levels in the skin for a more youthful appearance - guaranteed As the winter months are upon us skin can exhibit signs of dullness, with a lack of vitality and looks pale, tired and lifeless. One process that can increase the skin’s vitality is oxygenation. New skincare technology has discovered three active ingredients that offer a breakthrough to improve skin oxygenation levels. 2B Bio Oxygel is a wonderful gel that contains Sepicalm – a soothing lipoamino complex enriched with magnesium and potassium to defend the skin from environmental damage. Perfluorodecalin is one of the first cosmeceutical molecules to be used in cosmetic formulations. It is not a drug, but a physical carrier of gases, notably oxygen and carbon dioxide. It copies the natural respiration of our cells and mimics the function of haemoglobin and brings oxygen into the cells. Once the cells have been oxygenated cellular metabolism is stimulated, collagen production is supported and hydration levels in the skin are optimised. The result is smoother and firmer skin. This gentle hydrating gel can be used to energise the skin and restore its youthful appearance. Several companies boast of oxygenenhancing ingredients, but 2B Bio Oxygel has the science to prove it.

Contact Patricia Mangano, Patou Aesthetics Australia Ph: 07 4057 8365.

V-Neck Smoothing Crème for the perfect decolletage With sweeping necklines continuing to be in vogue there has never been a more important time to address your clients’ neck and decolletage for any anti-ageing concerns. The delicate skin of this area needs extra care. Bioelements recognises these special needs and have formulated V-Neck Smoothing Crème to help offer the skin extra support. With daily use of V-Neck Smoothing Crème you will visibly reduce the appearance of neck wrinkles, fade the look of unsightly freckles caused by the sun and tone and improve skin texture. Normal ageing, sun exposure and other environmental assaults can cause severe dehydration, pigmentation and vascular conditions such as couperose on the neck and decolletage areas. Start repairing these visible problems now with V-Neck Smoothing Creme, a totally non-greasy formula fuelled with potent anti-wrinkle peptides, moisturising hyaluronic acid and a powerful natural pigmentation lightener. Call ABSOLUTE SPA on 03 9464

4466 for further details and to learn more how Bioelements can offer you the results you are looking form. APJ 81


cosmetic tattoo

Bring Colour back to Women’s lives by Donna Moody-Martin Breast cancer affects women of all ages and some may lose one or both breasts to the disease. While doctors perform excellent surgery and can give back a regular shape to the breast by way of prosthesis or reconstruction, there is still something missing – an areola and nipple. To help with the full recovery from breast cancer cosmetic tattooing offers some incredible solutions if skilfully performed. I have been in the beauty industry as both owner of a registered college and a salon owner and have been teaching cosmetic tattoo for ten years. My specialty is now working with doctors, nurses and therapists in Australia and New Zealand, teaching them the art of creating the natural-looking breast. There are many cases we come across of women affected by breast cancer and how we can offer a happy ending to their story when they finally see themselves in the mirror. But can just colour and three-dimensional art change a woman’s life for the better? The answer to this question is a definite YES, and because of this I feel this is the most rewarding work I could ever do. We recognise that doctors do great work with breast reconstruction, but after this they generally leave the patient to get on

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with their life. But while the cancer may have been treated, these women will go home to face their life and their confronting mirrors. This is where we can offer more to make the breast look more natural.

Before

Some doctors offer a new look nipple and areola through skin reconstruction taken from other areas of the body. This generally gives a better appearance, but does take more time in surgery, and the skin itself is not coloured. Clients and their families, naturally, have many questions about cosmetic tattooing of an areola and nipple. Some I will answer here. How is the procedure achieved? It is performed generally 12 weeks after surgery in two sittings, each taking approximately one hour and performed four weeks apart.

After

How is the colour put in the skin? A pigment is applied with small needles to implant colour 1.5 millimetres under the skin into the dermis. The pigments are very safe, if they have been sourced from a reputable supplier. Check with APAN or your Association for recommendations and guidelines.


If you are performing this procedure it is also recommended that you show your client ‘before and after’ photos of your work. I use pigments that I import from USA and also sell to many therapists in Australia and New Zealand. They have been used for many years in hospitals in Australia for marking the skin for radiotherapy patients. How will it look between ‘touch-up’ visits? After the first treatment, the colour will appear darker than the required colour. This will fade within one to four weeks. Often the therapist will work only on the areola before starting the nipple area. How does the therapist know what colour to use? The therapist can mix a wide variety of colours, although there are areola premix colours available. If only one breast is being treated the colour will be matched as close as possible to the existing good breast. For clients who have more information presented to them before their mastectomy, a photo can be taken before surgery showing both the colour and shape of their existing areola and nipple so that the therapist can replicate it exactly to how it was pre-surgery. This is a great option. Unfortunately, when women are faced with making major medical decisions and facing the ‘life or death’ prospect of cancer it is a decision that can be overlooked. This is where networking and interfacing with a surgeon is beneficial as you can offer your services and request a photo pre-surgery so that you can re-create the illusion of a nipple and areola that is as close as possible to the patient’s original condition. Will it hurt? After all the painful surgery the last thing a client wants is more pain. For most patients there are no nerve endings left in the new breast so there is no feeling at all. For the few that have some feeling left, a topical anaesthetic is used to numb the area. How long will the colour last? Generally, these pigments, when used on the body (unlike the face), will stay permanently. How do I look after my tattooed breasts? Immediately after the procedure the therapist is required to cover the area with a post-tattoo cream and a light gauze covering. Clients are given home-care guidelines, which require that the cream is lightly placed over the tattooed area for up to three times a day. The gauze is kept on for three days and changed daily after showering. The cream can then be used for a further four days to allow for good healing and colour retention.

Before

After How much will this procedure cost? Some doctors perform this treatment under Medicare. Therapists’ charges usually range from $400 to $600. As many patients who have been afflicted from breast cancer surgery will testify, cosmetic tattoo has helped to restore their dignity to an otherwise deforming experience. Donna Moody-Martin as the principal of a government approved Beauty Therapy college introduced cosmetic tattoo as an accredited course to the Diploma of Beauty Therapy curriculum. This was in the late 1990s. Later she sold the college, choosing to concentrate on Cosmetic Tattoo training. She continued her own training in Advanced Cosmetic Tattoo procedures in the USA from 1995 to 1998. She is currently working with doctors and their patients and also delivers training for those who wish to qualify as Cosmetic Tattooists. She continually updates her training in America each year working in paramedical (cancer patients, burns victims, scar re-colouring). She is a member of the American Society of Permanent Cosmetic Professionals, and President of the Australasian Association of C o s m e t i c Ta t t o o / M i c ro - p i g m e n t a t i o n Therapists. Donna Moody-Martin runs regular training in this field, and offers mastectomy clients the option of a free treatment in a class situation or having her work on them as a private patient. For further information and course dates, contact 1800 007 191.

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apan facilities

Blue Skies have arrived gaining valuable information through the national APAN NETWORK CENTRE Perhaps you are a salon owner and would like recommendations on how to reward your staff or motivate them to perform better. Why not ask if other managers have successful strategies that they would be happy to share with you?

Wouldn’t you like to be able to share your thoughts and concerns with other like-minded individuals or experts who could share with you how they succeeded in areas you are still struggling with or working through? Well, now you can. In this day and age technology had decreased distances and we have become a virtual global community not only to gain recreational information, but also to extend our knowledge. This is why APAN has introduced the APAN NETWORK CENTRE available through the APAN website www.apanetwork.com. The objective of the APAN NETWORK CENTRE is to allow members who would like to get feedback on specific topics to do so. We therefore encourage all our members to explore this facility and present or post questions, information and topics that you would like others to share with you their knowledge and experiences. Our intention is to promote this forum and encourage the industry to interact and use it for their full advantage, thus making it a valuable resource for gaining information or feedback from others. Here are some suggestions of what you could do on the APAN Network Centre: 1. Ask a question You may have an opinion on something and would like to see what others think? This could involve a treatment or a product. It may be on a piece of equipment. What about treating a particular skin condition that you would like others to comment on and share with you any successes they have had with a similar situation. 2. Put forward a statement You may not want to ask a question, but to put forward a statement of something new you wish to develop and would like to attract others who may be interested in getting involved. 3. Find Staff You are looking for staff and want a particular kind of person. Why not place this information on the APAN Network Forum and see who will respond?

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4. Seminars/Suggestions to APAN You are interested in education and would like to let APAN know of topics you would like them to consider when planning a seminar. Why not put forward your recommendations on this page? Don’t forget to state the State you are from. If you would like for someone to call you, leave them a message. STRUCTURE OF THE APAN NETWORK CENTRE The APAN Network Centre is made up of Categories, boards within each category, and topics posted by individuals on each board. As the APAN Network Centre grows more of each of the above will be added. If you want a specific category or board added please email us. WHAT IS CURRENTLY AVAILABLE On the APAN NETWORK FORUM the following categories are available for you to access and post messages on: APAN DEVELOPMENT IDEAS In this section you can inform the organisation of areas you would like to see developed and your recommendations. It includes the following sub sections or “boards”: New APAN Development Announcements Members' Support Ideas General Ideas Seminar Topics GENERAL ISSUES (not covered elsewhere) Feel free to talk about anything and everything in this board that is not covered elsewhere. STAFFING ISSUES This is where you discuss and ask general questions regarding staffing issues and concerns. It includes the following boards: General Questions Staff Agreements Staff Motivation and Rewards Staff Training EMPLOYMENT OPPORTUNITIES Looking for a new staff member? Why not let us know what kind of person you are looking for.

CLIENT ISSUES In this section you can discuss anything regarding client care and concerns. BUSINESS ISSUES You are looking for business growth ideas and strategies and would like feedback from others. Why not use this post to communicate your wishes? It includes the following boards: General Questions Networking Ideas Government Regulations PRACTITIONER TECHNICAL ISSUES This section can involve the use of equipment or accessing feedback from others for a device you wish to purchase. It includes the following boards: General Issues Skin Care Ingredients Skin Nutrition Laser Devices Slimming Methodologies Anti-Ageing External Issues Anti-Ageing Internal Issues Skin Rejuvenation Issues Cosmetic Tattoo Issues IPL Issues SUPPLIER INFORMATION You are looking for a reputable supplier of a particular product, but can’t find it. Why not ask for this information here? STUDENT AREA This is the area for students to get together and discuss anything of interest WHO CAN USE IT The APAN NETWORK CENTRE is open for all to view but only APAN members can post on it. When you post you either start a new topic under the appropriate category and board or else reply to someone else's topic. HOW TO ACCESS THE SITE After you join APAN you will be sent an email with your username and password and a link to the APAN Network Centre that you will need to click on to confirm. Simply click on the link and go to the APAN NETWORK CENTRE, put your password in and you are ready to post. If you can access the Internet from you mobile phone then you can use it to post and read on the forum.

APAN are looking for individuals to administrate the different boards, so if you are keen, let us know and we can give you more information about what is involved.


His and her

SKINCARE! TAKE GOOD CARE OF YOUR PRECIOUS SKIN WITH HEAD TO TOE TREATMENTS AND PRODUCTS FOR MEN AND WOMEN FROM MADAME KORNER

BENEFITS TO YOU, THE BEAUTY THERAPIST • Products formulated and manufactured in Australia from the finest natural ingredients the world has to offer • Kind to your precious skin and has not been tested on animals • Originally designed for salon treatments • Proved so popular that it evolved into the home care range • Results achieved in the salon treatments will be maintained, prolonging the beneficial elements for the skin • Madame Korner’s classic Skin Care range is recognised for its integrity and commitment to your skin’s wellbeing.

Well over 100% profitability on all products Opening orders customised for individual salons or freelance operators Free product education • Affordable boutique products

S y d n e y 02 9518 9979 One Union Street Pyrmont

www.madamekorner.com


public relations

The BEAUTY of PR by Wendy Neeley

Public Relations is a valuable tool that can enhance a business, however the dynamics that govern how it works are often misunderstood. Wendy Neely is one of the most experienced Public Relations professionals specialising in the very competitive business of beauty for over 20 years. She has excellent relationships with most of the beauty editors in both consumer magazines as well as trade publications and knows how to get the best results. In this article she presents valuable information as to how PR works and how to get the best from this service. I’d say the closest thing that any company (and here I am speaking to suppliers) can get to strong, personal-type referrals and enhanced credibility is press coverage – print or on-line. Why? Because readers place their trust in the publication they are reading, or the site they are viewing. They have respect for the editor or the journalist and they take what she is saying as her personal recommendation. Imagine if your company could receive this type of coverage in magazines, newspapers, online and trade journals. A very important strategic weapon, public relations (PR) can generate awareness for your services and products that can make clients or consumers choose you over your competitor. PR is a cost-effective and highly visible tool, which can help lay a foundation for companies and build on future sales. But the truth is unfortunately, it is more often than not a misunderstood and a total unknown process to many who fail to recognise its benefits. PR plays a key role and underpins marketing, creating greater consumer visibility and awareness for your brand and your company. PR is based on product knowledge, honesty, consistency, patience and persistence. If you have been thinking about the positives of PR then you have, or probably are taking, bite-sized steps and have already kick-started the process yourself without being aware.

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By this I mean: You have paid attention and watched the marketplace You are continually growing your business and are passionate about it ! You have gotten out of your safety zone (your premises, office or desk) and met with potential new clients to offer them solutions ! You are known in the industry. Others respect you, your company and your products.

! !

It is also important that you know who your competitors are and you make a point to visit their salons to see what they are doing. In return for your efforts: You have secured new accounts (salons, spas, clinics, etc) where your products and services are available ! You roll up your sleeves and get into it ! You conduct workshops and seminars to extend your network and leverage yourself as an expert in your field ! You are continually bringing new issues to the beauty table such as cutting edge technology and advanced formulations ! And, no doubt you have advertised many of your products or services in trade journals, your local newspaper or possibly mainstream media (magazines).

!

So now that you have gone this far, why stop? You have contributed so much and put in a lot of effort to get where you are today. PR can help you continue to increase and move further, through an increase in consumer awareness of your brand. This will ultimately lead to greater consumer demand of your products and the growth of your business. Here are a few thoughts and realistic approaches to keep in mind when making decisions, so you can successfully embark on the PR process, because the fact is, you have everything to gain, so allow someone else with expertise in this area to steer you.


ADVERTISING VS PR Advertising and PR traditionally go hand-in-hand, as you can’t have a publication without advertising support. To break it down, advertising is about selling, while PR is about telling. However, as I’ve already mentioned, whenever your products or services are featured in an article this has the benefit of letting your readers know that the editor or journalist as an independent yet trusted person, has given their sincere recommendation. THE VALUE AND WORTH OF PR In putting PR into real value terms, here is an example. Your product or services receive a quarter page exposure in a national consumer magazine the equivalent of which, in dollar value, is approximately $15,000. However, your quarter-page is actually worth three times this value in editorial terms, because the editor has personally endorsed it. This is something money cannot buy. An ad cannot buy this type of endorsement for you, your product or your company. BE REALISTIC IN YOUR EXPECTATIONS A one-off PR feature does not work, even if you believe it is something very relevant and so special and/or for a specific time of year, for example, your involvement with, say, Breast Cancer month. Be patient. PR takes time to work. It is never complete, but it is always evolving. It’s a long-term game. It takes multiple hits and not always on the same subject. Do not expect to see results overnight, next week or next month. It is an on-going process, just like a constantly dripping tap that eventually fills the bucket one drop at a time. A single press release does not do the job (granted it would be fabulous, but it is extremely rare). YOUR PR PERSON/PUBLICIST When choosing your PR person it is not all about flashy offices and latest equipment. It is the person who has the connections and has the best possible relationship and influence with the media that will get the job done. Publicity deals with the media, which is a fiercely competitive arena and it often takes many years to develop a strong bond with the key decision-makers. It is, therefore, the person who talks with Australia’s top beauty editors and continually pushes hard on your behalf who will be the best person for you. She will keep knocking at the door until someone answers. PLACEMENT POSSIBILITIES While your PR person is consistently talking to beauty editors and writers, pitching and suggesting angles for your products and services, updating them on new breakthroughs and story possibilities then following up consistently and with determination, the final decision is out of the PR person’s hands. Therefore it is totally unrealistic to expect a 100 per cent pickup rate. HOW YOU CAN ASSIST THE PROCESS The best way you can assist your PR person is to present your information and products in a professional manner, ensuring you are giving them the necessary tools. These include products (never sample sizes), high resolution images, bags, product brochures and folders. Consider in a week that at least 250 products cross a beauty editor’s desk. She is inundated with companies attempting to grab her attention. How will your products stand out from the crowd? Presentation, therefore, is everything. TIME IS OF THE ESSENCE Be ready to respond to any requests and make sure you deliver what is needed on time. In the media world, things can change in the blink of an eye due to many factors. Often features are brought forward at the last minute, product shoots are rescheduled without much notice or a story takes a different slant. Be prepared and ready to act on these changes immediately. Have a contact available in your office that can fulfil all PR requests in a timely manner. A few hours or a day’s delay

can make all the difference as to whether your story or products are accepted. Remember that when an editor is on deadline there are no excuses. She is under pressure and you cannot afford to let her down. WEBSITE In today’s market a website will play a critical role in allowing the media to gather information about you. Do you have one? Can potential clients and consumers find you easily on the net? Is it updated regularly? Can they contact you through your website? Do you have solid information about your products and your services? In addition, there is a whole host of social media available such as blogs, tweets, etc. The Internet has opened up a brand new world for business owners. PR can benefit all companies (suppliers) in raising their profile, and it is even more important than ever in these slower economic times. An article on your service (treatment) or a mention of your products in the media can get the phone ringing and create a lot of business. This flows on to your individual clients – your salons, spas or clinics – in terms of up-sell and increased product purchases and bookings for services. Now you are ready to increase your visibility and awareness and further build an image for your company, it’s time to talk to a PR consultant or an agency and let them handle it and contribute their expertise. Whichever way you choose to move ahead (agency or individual) it is an exciting, fun and rewarding experience to be involved in driving the PR effort. SALONS/CLINICS/SPAS So you are a salon owner or a spa. How can you benefit from PR services? A PR person can help you put a laser-beam focus on your business and implement a plan for greater consumer visibility, like brainstorming some new headlines. You are allowed to be quirky and a little bold when thinking about ways to out-rival your competitors. Get involved locally or become community-spirited. Have you got a special story to tell that your PR person can promote on your behalf to the media? Are you ahead of the rest with the latest and greatest technology? How do you reward clients? Do you have a loyalty scheme happening? Positioning your business as offering unique services and extra special or small indulgences is an advantage. How well do you know your clients? Are you giving them what they want? Remember that consumers will spend with the right salon, spa or clinic if they believe they are getting the very best. A priority should be retaining clients. Once you have loyal clients you don’t want to lose them. Make sure they have a positive experience today and you can be sure they will remember you tomorrow. Encourage them to refer others to you and reward them for doing it. There are many communication tools on offer, such as regular newsletters, your website, email and SMS alerts to clients. From a PR perspective, an expert can prepare your press releases and get you together with the local media. On your part you should be running regular promotions and built-in added value for services.

Wendy Neely is the Managing Director of NonStopPR. She has over 20 years’ experience as a Public Relations professional and specialises in the beauty industry. She has excellent connections with over 30 magazine editors, newspapers and journalists. Nonstoppr is based in Sydney, however, Wendy offers her services in any State. If you would like to speak to Wendy about your PR needs you can contact her on Ph: 02 9684 6729 or 0438 911 017. Email: nonstoppr@hotkey.net.au.

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finances

FINANCIAL MATTERS – the Value of Simplification by Sean Macnamara B.B.Comm As a self-employed small businessperson your needs are more varied and greater than those of an employee. You might not consider it so, but it is the case. Being a small business owner/operator you are constantly focused on outward factors, such as how you can bring more business to your door through product and treatment sales. However, have you thought about alternatives in financing and finance methodology that can add to your bottom line? Review your financial structure Many self-employed people are simply too busy to take the time to understand the basics, and rather less the details of finance, and understandably so, as they are too busy with the job at hand – running their business. They don’t see the overall picture or relationship from a micro level of money, credit and finances. Often business people don’t ask themselves – what is credit and money? What are the sources of credit and money? How can I best use credit and money? Who can I talk to about these things? How does one affect the other? This can often lead to there being many and varied problems with finances or access to it in times of need, and

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therefore with cash flows and eventually the bottom line of their business. You don’t have to be a financial genius (there are plenty of those out there), you just need to ask around and get some opinion, preferably from friends and family, but ultimately, you need to seek professional help in many layers. Problems can often simply creep up on you. Such as not getting your tax return completed on time. This can result in not allowing you to borrow properly or have the proper credit requirements in place when needed. Not having the proper personal or business insurances can often lead to problems in your business. Let’s say you had a medical problem and need 3-6 months off work, how do the bills get paid if you don’t have proper income protection insurance? Too many different debts with interest rates can cause cash-flow problems and also rob you of the ability to use credit properly and when you require it. At worst, it could cause catastrophic credit problems and even bankruptcy. One of the biggest killers in business cycles is the burden of the additional interest from facilities that you should really have in reserve. That burden can be thousands of dollars, if not tens of thousands of


dollars. We have outlined to clients also on fees that they pay to their bank to have 6-8 different facilities. The fees on a business loan, overdraft, credit cards (the banks really want you to have one of these or two or three) can be as high as $2700-2800 per annum – now isn’t that better in your pocket than in their profits to shareholders? Considering your options Too many business people don’t want to take on layers of professional advice – it’s too time consuming, it’s too expensive, or we know what we are doing! The bankruptcy court numbers simply don’t agree with those statements. It is a fact that most small business failures occur in the first two years of operation. Simply put, that is because of a lack of capital or access to it. The balance usually occurs in year three, which is because of a lack of levels of professional advice. When a businessperson goes to their bank and the bank says “no” they take this as being the end of it. We counsel people to ask why, or if they have an alternative? There is an old saying ‘If you don’t ask you don’t get’, furthermore the first “no” doesn’t mean no, it probably means we either don’t want to help you or we don’t understand what it is you want, or we are just too busy on other things. Ask why, and then ask yourself are these people really suitable for my needs? Conducting a SWOT analysis One of the biggest problems with business people is that they don’t have or take the time to plan or budget and they don’t apply a simple SWOT analysis. That does not mean you have to undertake a 10-year plan, locking yourself away for days doing cash-flow projections. SWOT simply means Strengths, Weaknesses, Opportunities and Threats. Analyse three of each and write them down. These problems are not unusual in a business, but they present an opportunity to look at solutions. Solutions can be many, but more often than not they produce themselves out of a need. Often the solution to no tax return can be a Low doc loan, but there is a need for caution and need to cancel out all other debt. The problem could be deeper and require many and varied solutions, sometimes in combination. The solution could be to use or include a Line Of Credit (LOC) so that business expenses could be kept in one account when using loan splits. Include a chequebook and deposit book attached to an LOC eliminating fees and be at a lower rate of interest. Solutions don’t always jump out at you, but to us they are the things we do and look at every day. Having found the solution(s) you need to implement the solution(s) to achieve the required result. Results are something we all want but often don’t get. Usually that is because we fear change or simply forget to implement the solutions. Often the result of fear and not implementing solutions can be a failure. This is by far the hardest task in getting finances correct, but an astute businessperson looks at these solutions and takes action, which in most cases causes the result we desire and can be better than expected. The benefits that can be achieved can be many and varied. They could include things such as buying your own commercial premises, increasing stock at a lesser cost for quantity, having the ability to implement systems linked to business computers that can achieve economies of scale not previously achieved. This can cut costs and build better profits. Having your own premises can leave you with greater control of your destiny and also build an asset base for the future. Let’s face facts, paying less in interest and fees is something we all want to achieve, while having no fear of failure because we have access to credit for any and all those matters that can or could arise is also an advantage. But moreover being able to increase profits by up to 2-3

BETTER BUSINESS FINANCE Do you want to know how you can make your money work for you? This two-hour seminar program is tailor-made to assist small to medium businesses to learn how they can gain:

! ! ! !

Better financial control Increase their bottom line Minimise unnecessary fees and charges Implement better business financial solutions BETTER BUSINESS FINANCE seminars will be run in every State. Fees: $22 Time: Two hours

If you would like to attend these seminars please phone Mortgage Corporation Network on 1300 668 670 Or Email: info@mortgage-corp.com.au

times, while at the same time achieve dramatic debt reduction, is really worth achieving. With more cash flow and less problems to solve you could get on with the better aspects of life such as travel, or building personal assets. You could start a financial plan and build a varied portfolio. The possibilities are endless. Don’t fall into the increasing cases of “I will do what they did!” They being the important word – they are not you! Each situation and case is different. Through APAN we plan to conduct a series of information seminars in regional and capital cities over a two-hour period during the next year. These seminars are invaluable and close contact with only 8-10 small businesspersons in each seminar would be ideal. We would be pleased to then attend to individual needs. Alternatively you can phone us on 1300 668 670 or Email: info@mortgage-corp.com.au and we would be pleased to refer you to one of our offices. Sean Macnamara holds a degree in Business Commerce and a Cert 4 in Train the Trainer and has 25 years’ experience in Finance. Mortgage Corporation Network is a Mortgage Manager and a full member of the MFAA. Their Managing Director is Margaret Macnamara who is a certified Associate Mortgage Consultant. They have offices in Queensland, New South Wales, Victoria and Tasmania.

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SCIENTIFIC NEWS This section will present news and research information relating to skin and anti-ageing discoveries.

Simple blood test can help determine a person's Molecular age

Five years ago, a critical discovery in the understanding of cellular ageing was made by researchers from the University of North Carolina (UNC) at Chapel Hill Lineberger Comprehensive Cancer Center. Through their research, they learnt that expression of a key tumour suppressor protein - p16INK4a dramatically increases in most mammalian organs with the ageing of cells and tissue. Now, a new study conducted by the same team of researchers has shown that p16INK4a is also present in human blood and is strongly associated with ageing and such behaviours as tobacco use and physical inactivity, both of which are known to accelerate the ageing process. Moreover, the researchers have been able to develop a simple blood test capable of detecting p16INK4a, which is present in Tlymphocytes. Their research was based upon two key factors: blood taken from 170 healthy human volunteers and a questionnaire that the participants completed, providing information about past and current health status and behaviours. As the scientists discovered, the expression of p16INK4a increased exponentially with age, and that those increased levels were independently associated with tobacco use, physical inactivity and with bio-markers of human frailty. "This is a major step towards a practical tool to clinically determine a person's actual molecular age, as opposed to just their chronological age," emphasises UNC Lineberger member Norman Sharpless, M.D., the senior author of the study and associate professor of medicine and genetics at UNC's School of Medicine. "We found a

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very weak correlation between the bio-marker and obesity as measured by body mass index, despite other data suggesting that caloric restriction slows ageing. The data suggest the possibility that reduced exercise may actually be worse with regard to molecular age than a higher BMI," says Dr. Sharpless, who expressed surprise about the findings. "Although we don't know whether this test is a good reflection of cellular age in all types of human tissues, we believe it is a first step towards a better understanding of issues like the suitability of organs for transplantation, how well patients are likely to recover after surgery or the future toxicity of chemotherapy for cancer patients," he adds. Study findings are being published in the journal Aging Cell. For more information on Test detects molecular marker of ageing in humans visit www.eurealert.org

Oregano Stops Inflammation

cholesterol) as well as basil. Reducing chronic inflammation is no small thing, as it is increasingly associated with leading to heart attacks and sits at the root of auto-immune disorders, including diabetes, lupus, rheumatoid arthritis and multiple sclerosis among others. One promising discovery is oregano and E-BCP could well work to prevent the immune system for overacting and attacking itself, which is at the core of auto-immune disorders. And there’s more. The Swiss scientists reported that lab findings suggest that oregano could well hold off the bone degeneration associated with osteoporosis. While not part of this study, the researchers speculated that E-BCP could address inflammation of the bowel associated with Crohn’s disease. The new research doesn’t surprise those of us who have discovered oil of oregano, especially as a cold and flu remedy. Naturalhealth-conscious individuals say five drops in a bit of water, then gargle with it, stops a sore throat in its tracks. Health practitioners who work with essential oils will point to the three-fold potency of oil of oregano, identifying it as antibacterial, antiviral and antifungal. European herbal research consistently shows oregano as one of the most potent for immune-boosting properties. The oil of oregano products are important to keep in mind because what might be labeled “oregano” in a dried herb products can actually be Spanish marjoram, which is clearly not oregano. You want to look for sourcing information to identify the herb as wild oregano, which is typically grown in the Mediterranean region. Essential oil, of course, distilled the plant down to a concentrated and therapeutic form. Be savvy about where and how you get your oregano and health rewards await. And probably even better-tasting pizza sauce.

Over the past couple of years turmeric has become a darling of nutrition researchers. One particularly important study showed the spice reduces inflammation in mice. Curry all around was the conclusion, since there is no toxic dose associated with turmeric. Asian cuisine basked in the healthy glow of the research.

Ref: Alternative Health Journal, Bob Condor

Not to be outdone, the herb oregano is giving a similar boost to Italian foods and pizza sauce. A 2008 study completed by Swiss researchers shows that oregano is an ultimate inflammation fighter. The active ingredient, betacaryophyllin, helped seven out of every 10 mice to recover from inflamed paws.

Oral antioxidant supplement shown to protect skin from the effects of sunburn

The study was published in Proceedings of National Academy of Sciences in the US marking a significant mainstream mile for the herb—and for betacaryophyllin, abbreviated as E-BCP, which is also plentiful in black pepper, rosemary and cinnamon (also found in research literature to be a regulator of bad

As reports in scientific literature increasingly confirm that antioxidant supplements can impede photo-ageing, cosmeceutical developers are leaving no fruit un-thumped in their quest to satisfy the public's hunger for formulations that protect the skin from the


We've also seen anecdotal evidence that oral lycopene supplementation in the 5mg to 10mg daily dose range may reduce the risk of sunburn in very sensitive, fair-skinned individuals. The apparent protection of Langerhans cells is also potentially significant," he notes, adding: "Oral supplements such as this mixture of lycopene and related carotenoids need further studies like this one to expand our understanding of how oral antioxidants impact our skin - both for health and beauty." Ref: Longevity and Age Management, SkinHair, Aesthetic Medicine. May 2009.

Clinical Update on Benefits of DHEA environment. One recent study, which examined the effect of an oral lycopene formulation in comparison to a placebo, showed that oral antioxidant supplements can protect against sunburn. Lyc-O-Mato an anti-oxidant that contains 5 mg of pure lycopene, along with a combination of such tomato-derived phytonutrients as phytoene, phytofluene, beta-carotene, tocopherols and phytosterols was recently tested for its effects on protecting the skin from sunburn. LycoRed Ltd. conducted a small pilot study to examine the effect of its oral lycopene formulation, Lyc-O-Mato, to protect the skin from sunburn. The study included 10 adult men and women, half of whom consumed 85mg of Lyc-O-Mato 6 per cent capsules twice daily, and the other half, a placebo twice daily. At the end of 10 weeks, the subjects were exposed to two minimal erythemal doses of UV radiation from a solar simulator. Their skin cells were biopsied and assessed 24 hours later. According to Zohar Nir, Ph.D., Weizmann Institute of Science in Rohovot, Israel, and vice president of new product development for LycoRed, those participants receiving the Lyc-O-Mato supplement experienced a sunburn cell count six times lower than that of the placebo group. There was also evidence of reduced depletion of Langerhans cells in the Lyc-O-Mato group, which, Dr. Nir says is important because "depletion of Langerhans cells negatively affects the important immune function of the skin." The mechanism behind Lyc-O-Mato is simple, says Dr. Nir. "The interaction of radiation with the skin creates reactive oxygen species (ROS), and lycopene is the most effective quencher of the ROS free radicals responsible for oxidative stress and hence, damage of the skin." The study sample may be small, but according to David McDaniel, M.D., director of the Institute of Anti-Aging Research in Virginia Beach, its results are still impressive. "Our research program has seen significant protection from UV damage from other topically applied super-potent antioxidants.

Dehydroepiandrosterone (DHEA) along with its form as a sulfate ester (DHEA-S) that serves as a reservoir for DHEA itself, are weak androgens produced primarily by the adrenal gland. Combined, DHEA and DHEA-S are the most abundant adrenal hormones found in human plasma. The peak plasma levels of DHEA and DHEA-S occur at approximately age 25 years, decrease progressively thereafter, and diminish by 95 per cent around the age of 85 years. The decline of DHEA’s concentrations with ageing has led to the suggestion that DHEAs could play a role in itself and be implicated in longevity as the following findings confirm: ! Epidemiological evidence has shown that adult men with high plasma DHEA levels are less likely to die of cardiovascular disease. ! DHEA has also been shown to increase the body's ability to transform food into energy and burn off excess fat. ! Recently, researchers discovered important anti-inflammatory properties of DHEA. It was known that DHEA could lower the levels of interleukin-6 (IL-6) and tumour necrosis factor alpha (TNF-alpha). Since chronic inflammation contributes to the development of the killer diseases of ageing such as heart disease, Alzheimer's disease and certain types of cancer, supplementation with DHEA, combined with conventional treatment, has been suggested to be potentially therapeutic for improving the quality of life across a wide range of illnesses.

Strengthening the Nervous System In February 2004, a team of scientists from the University of Wisconsin (Madison) exposed human neural stem cells to DHEA and yielded some of the world's first direct evidence of the biological effects of DHEA on the human nervous system. DHEA significantly increased cellular division in the cells contained in the lab dish, and increased the number of neurons produced by the stem cells by up to 29%. The researchers observed that, of all the steroids to which the lab stem cells were exposed, DHEA was the only one to have such a direct effect on stem cell growth and new neuron formation.

This new research suggests that DHEA may moderate the production of new brain cells as we age. When taken collectively with previous broad research suggesting the role of DHEA in enhancing the brain and memory, an important potential role of DHEA in cognitive dysfunctions such as senile dementia, including Alzheimer's Disease, is revealed.

Menopause Daily DHEA supplementation has also recently been shown to remedy some of the side-effects of menopause. During a yearlong study in Italy, 20 menopausal women took 25 milligrams of DHEA. Estrogen, testosterone, and dihydrotestosterone increased by between three and four times, while progesterone rose nearly two-fold. Lead researcher Dr. Alessandro Genazzani from the University of Modena (Italy) suggests that one day, DHEA may replace hormone replacement therapy (HRT), as this experiment resulted with all women reporting improvements in menopausal symptoms such as hot flashes, without any side-effects of any kind.

Age-related heart disease DHEA recently has also been found to reduce risk factors associated with age-related heart disease. DHEA improves blood vessels by stimulating the linings of arteries to produce nitric oxide, a substance that relaxes arterial tension. In a Japanese study of 24 men, average age 54, with elevated cholesterol, Kumamoto University School of Medicine researchers found that 25 mg of DHEA daily benefited endothelial function (flexibility of arteries), insulin sensitivity, and fibrinolytic activity, with changes taking place as early as within four weeks of supplementation. DHEA for men and women, in youth or in older age, can be considered as a safe, multimodal anti-ageing supplement promoting quality of life and increasing the odds of living longer lives. References: "'Anti-ageing' hormone found to boost brain cell growth," NutraIngredients.com, Feb. 19, 2004. "DHEA, another HRT alternative?," Nutraingredients.com, Jan. 23, 2004. "DHEA could protect against onset of heart disease," Nutraingredients.com, July 28, 2003. Leowattana, W. "DHEA: The fountain of youth." J-Med-Assoc-Thai. 2001 Oct; 84 Suppl 2: S605-12 0125-2208 Information courtesy AustralAsian Academy of Anti-Ageing Medicine A5M (www.a5m.net) Tel 03 9813 0439.

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AESTHETIC INDUSTRY BULLETIN This section will present the latest news, training dates and other Aesthetic Industry information including International Expo Calendar and Test Your Knowledge section.

TEST YOUR KNOWLEDGE The anti-bacterial benefits of Ozone confirmed As an aesthetic practitioner you regularly use your vapozone in your salon during your skin treatments. By switching on your ozone button you are now able to emit an anti-bacterial mist on to the skin. Now research is finding another valuable use for it in protecting our food from contamination. Ozone is a colourless gas that is produced commercially by passing electricity through oxygen. Without heat or other chemicals, it kills bacteria, viruses and moulds on foods such as fresh produce, poultry and meats. “Ozone works very effectively,” says Dr Mark Tamplin, Professor in food microbiology at the University of Tasmania. “It’s used here in aquaculture for the rearing of seafood such as lobsters. It keeps the water quality high and helps kill parasites that attach to the skin of fish.” After 20-30 minutes ozone decomposes into oxygen without leaving any residue.

Fresh Flowers improve our mood Did you know that having a cheerful bunch of fresh flowers in your reception could have a positive effect on your staff and the clients that visit you? Harvard psychologist Dr Nancy Etcoff sent 54 people either a mixed bouquet or a candle in a hurricane glass. Flower recipients reported they felt more compassion and kindness towards others than the recipients of the candles said they did. So go ahead and place freshly cut blooms where you’ll see them first thing in the morning. That’s when moods tend to be the lowest, but a fresh bunch of flowers can turn this around even without any further effort from you, even more so if they are aromatic.

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How well have you retained the information you have gained from this Journal? We are giving you to opportunity to test your knowledge. Why not give these questions a go? You will find the exact answers within the articles in this journal. Once you have completed your answers go to page 95 for the correct answers. Q 1. What percentage of the epidermis remains intact after a skin treatment using Fractional laser? Q 2. What is the average size of an LED head compared to an IPL head? Q 3. Name APAN’S 15 key areas of strategic support to its members? Q 4. What skin conditions benefit from the Vasculite device? Q 5. Name the six technologies that are within the Skinlight unit? Q 6. When was electroporation first discovered and how was it used in dermatology? Q 7. For cosmetic application what levels of ultrasonic frequencies are used? Q 8. Plant stem cells from a unique species called Uttwiler Spaitlauber were found to contain metabolites that are responsible for the longevity of a particular fruit. What fruit was it? Q 9. It is known that Vitamin A induces a transcription of proteins in a cancer-suppressing gene. What is this gene called? Q 10. What is considered to be the best method of calcium absorption into the human body? Q 11. If an imported device has the provision of a CE mark or an EU mark and can present certification to this affect to the TGA for inclusion does it still have to undergo a Conformity Assessment ? Q. 12. What does TGA stand for? Q 13. Currently the Government Approved Beauty Training Package is WRB04. This is being replaced with which code? Q 14. Name three therapeutic properties of Turmeric. Q 15. Who is the regulator for cosmetics in Australia? (Think before you answer this one.) Q16. Non-thermal therapeutic laser assists in resuscitation of the mitochondria where cellular ageing begins. However, what effects do non-thermal therapeutic lasers have on an extracellular level?


aesthetician, and International Director of Education for Nelly De Vuyst skincare. Ms Pilon has conducted seminars throughout the world educating medical specialists, aestheticians, spa owners, dermatologists, as well as plastic surgeons and other professionals.

International Aesthetic & Spa Show Calendar 2009 Produced by Terry Everitt Aesthetic Educators

July 11-13 Face & Body Spa & Healthy Aging Conference and Expo McEnery Convention Center San Jose, California T: + 1 630-653-2155 F: + 1 630-653-2192

Email: FaceandBody@allured.com

July 19-21 Cosmopro North America Mandalay Bay Convention Center Las Vegas, Nevada, USA T: + 39 051 282848 F: + 39 051 282895

Manon Pilon will speak at the Australasian Academy of Anti-Ageing Aesthetic Medicine Conference on Sunday 4th October 2009 at the Sofitel on Collins St in Melbourne. To book your attendance visit www.a5m.net or call 03 9813 0439.

Email: fairsystem@fairsystem.it

Aug 8-9

Sydney Int. Beauty Expo Exhibition & Convention Centre Darling Harbour, Sydney T: 02 9422 2535 F: 02 9422 2917 enquiries@internationalbeautyexpo.com.au

Sept 2-4

Natural Health AJC Convention Centre Randwick, Sydney T: 02 9660 2113 F: 02 9660 9786 info@naturalhealthexpo.com.au

WORLD MEDISPA EXPERT TO VISIT AUSTRALIA

Sept 9-14 58th CIDESCO WORLD CONGRESS Grand Prince Hotel Kyoto Takaragaike, Sakyo-ku, Kyoto-shi, Kyoto T: +41 44 448 22 00 F: +41 44 448 22 01

The AustralAsian Academy of Anti-Ageing Medicine (A5M) is pleased to announce the attendance of world-renowned MediSpa expert, Manon Pilon, who will hold a one day workshop dedicated to achieving success in a medispa business.

Email: info@cidesco.com

Sept 12-14 International Congress of Esthetics & Spa Long Beach Convention Center Long Beach, California T: +1 305 443-2322 F: +1 305 443-1664

Manon Pilon’s workshop Boost your bottom line Medispa – Earn up to $500,000 per Medispa Room was a sellout in Dubai and looks set to be the MediSpa event of the year in Australia. A5M will dedicate much of its 2009 Conference to business aspects of AntiAgeing Medicine including how to establish an Anti-Ageing Medicine practice or medispa. Medical spas offer a range of therapies under the supervision of trained medical personnel but in the surroundings of a relaxing spa environment. Anti-Ageing Medicine services may include a thorough patient assessment to look at health risk factors, comprehensive pathological tests and a prescription of a total wellbeing program. Treatment protocols will vary, but will usually span diet and nutrition, lifestyle and exercise, supplementation and prescription medications. “Combining internal Anti-Ageing Medicine and external wellness treatments makes sense for clients and is good business decision for health professionals,” said Mr Bill Anton Chairman of the A5M and Scientific Advisor to the American Academy of Anti-Aging Medicine. Manon Pilon is a Medical Spa consultant, recognised educator, researcher, medical

Email: registration@lneonline.com

Sept 12-14 16th International Hair Styling, Perfume, Cosmetics, Aesthetics and Beauty Fair. La Rural Trade Center Buenos Aires, Argentina T: +54 11 4514 1400F: +54 11 4514 1404

Email: beauty@indexport.com.ar

Sept 15-16 Spa & Resort/Medical Aesthetics Conference & Expo Jacob K. Javits Convention Center New York, NY, USA T: +1 203 840-5652 F: +1 203-840-9831

Email: sporpiglia@reedexpo.com

Natural Compatibles launches new Website Natural Compatibles is excited to announce the launch of their new FRESH look website, which will be live by August, 2009. This new and updated site will feature a FREE step-bystep makeup demonstration, using the Natural Compatibles Feature Focussing™ Techniques that will also be launched at their stand No.2918 at the International Beauty and Spa Expo Sydney. To find out more visit them at the expo or visit www.naturalcompatibles.com.au

Sept 20-21

Esthetique Spa International Palais des congrès de Montréal Montreal (Quebec), Canada T: + 450 434-4738 F: + 450 435-2027 Email: info@spa-show.com

Oct 4-6

International Trade Fair for Perfumery, Toiletries and Cosmetics

Bombay Exhibition Centre Mumbai, India T: +91 - 22- 22021377 F: +91 - 22-22027243

millie.contractor@india.messefrankfurt.com

Oct 5-8

ISPA Conference & Expo Austin Convention Center Austin, Texas. USA T: +1.859.226.4326 F: +1.859.226.4445

Email: ispa@ispastaff.com

APJ 93


“It’s extra money just for doing your job correctly,” adds Leanne.

Bio Sculpture Gel welcomes International Nail Expert to Australia Vanessa Venter, Head Bio Sculpture Gel International Educator, will visit Australia in July to lead a series of training workshops on behalf of Bio Sculpture Gel Australia as part of a Bio Sculpture Gel world training tour. Venter, the international spokesperson for Bio Sculpture Gel – pioneers of the healthy approach to nail care with gels – will discuss new nails trends, the latest nail products and how to achieve “The Perfect Score Manicure”.

This rewards program coincides with the introduction of heritagehealers new look branding to salon owners, and according to Leanne Lovatt, the response has been fabulous. “We are only 12 years young !”, says Leanne, “but we now offer so much more. It really was time to re-define and modernise our look. Most importantly for me was for the new brand to clearly reflect the core ‘wellness’ message of our products and treatments. And the new look is just the start of our brand review” adds Leanne, “so despite all the ‘doom and gloom’, 2009 is shaping up to be a very big year for our heritagehealers family!” For further information contact heritagehealers on Freecall 1 800 68 50 50 or visit www.heritagehealers.com

Jackson, experience pneumonia and cardiac manifestations and anaemia. Extreme fatigue and joint pain are common with Lupus. Although it seemed odd years ago, Michael wearing a mask was wise. He came into contact with millions of people, each one a risk to his health when living with Lupus. There is no cure for Vitiligo, nor is there a cure for Lupus. Treatments for Vitiligo includes a topical steroid cream (mild topical corticosteroid cream). Corticosteroids are a group of drugs similar to hormones such as cortisone and are often used to treat Lupus patients. Ultraviolet therapy and photochemotherapy may be used to help darken the patches, although this may increase skin cancer risk, burning or blistering. Vitiligo patients with over 50 per cent of their body affected may opt for depigmentation, to match the already depigmented areas. A few famous names you

Bio Sculpture Gel training workshops will be held in Melbourne and Sydney for current technicians. The workshops will discuss the new trends in nails, products straight from the European runways and application techniques including how to achieve “The Perfect Score Manicure”. Technicians will also be able to speak directly with Venter. Venter recently spoke at the Bio Sculpture Gel International Conference in South Africa in May. She will be in Australia from 10-25July. To attend a training workshop call 1300 246 435.

Michael Jackson was a sufferer of Lupus and Vitiligo Heritage Healers Rewarding salons for their work Would you like some extra money? In an industry first, heritagehealers unique therapist reward program puts cash back into your pocket! “As a salon owner and therapist, I know that a little motivation goes a long way – and in these tough times what better motivation than some extra spending money? says Leanne, heritagehealers founding director.

APJ 94

In 1986 Michael Jackson was diagnosed with Vitiligo and Lupus. Vitiligo is a pigmentation disorder in which melanocytes (the cells that make pigment) in the skin are destroyed. Lupus is an auto-immune and inflammatory disease that attacks healthy cells, tissues and organs and can be fatal. In the 1993 Oprah Winfrey interview with Jackson he finally admitted to having this illness to debunk the “skin bleaching” rumours. Vitiligo is associated with auto-immune and inflammatory diseases like Lupus and Addison’s. Lupus can cause inflammation of the heart, lungs, joints and many, like

may recognise: Graham Norton has white patches in his hair as a result of vitiligo. ! Seal — Musician, A childhood battle with Discoid Lupus left him with facial scars and hair loss. ! Michael Wayne — The son of legendary actor John Wayne, Michael Wayne died of Lupus complications in 2003 ! Louisa May Alcott — author of classics such as Little Women is believed to have had Lupus.

!


Vitiligo and Lupus can seriously affect a person’s self esteem. Being in the spotlight with only one of these would be very difficult, but for Jackson, having both an internal and external disease and being such high profile, while entertaining the world is miraculous.

NAKED TAN TRAINING

For more information on Vitiligo or Lupus visit: American Academy of Dermatology: www.aad.org, the Mayo Clinic: Http://www.mayoclinic.com/health/vitiligo/ DS00586, The SLE Lupus Foundation: www.lupusny.org and Cure 4 Lupus: www.cure4lupus.org

Naked Tan Phone 1300 365 683

Naked Tan Head Office is relocating to a larger headquarters that will now be able to host National Training Workshops and Events for our salon stockists and suppliers. Please refer to this section for scheduled dates and details that will be published in the upcoming issues.

Email: marilyn.foyle@emap.com

Oct 18-19 Esthetique Spa International Calgary Stampede Park Roundup Center - Hall D, Calgary, Canada T: + 450 434-4738F: + 450 435-2027 Email: info@spa-show.com

Oct 18-19 Premiere Birmingham Birmingham Jeffereson Convention Center Birmingham, Alabama, USA T: +1 407 2653131 F: +1 407 2653134 Email: info@premiershows.com

Vanessa Venter - Head Educator for Bio Sculpture Gel International Education Program Australia JULY 2009 Tuesday, 21st July Bio Sculpture Gel Training in Leichhardt, Sydney Wednesday, 22nd July Bio Sculpture Gel Training in Leichhardt, Sydney

ONGOING TRAINING & EDUCATION

Oct 11-12 Professional Beauty Manchester Central Petersfield, Manchester, UK T: +44 20 77285000

Oct 25-26 International Congress of Esthetics & Spa Pennsylvania Convention Center Philadelphia, PA T: +1 305 443-2322 F: +1 305 443-1664

Email: registration@lneonline.com

Oct 26-28 Beautyworld, Japan West INTEX, Osaka Nanko Cosmo Square, Osaka, Japan T: +81 6 6612-1234 beautyworld@messefrankfurst.com

Thursday, 23rd July Bio Sculpture Gel Training in Leichhardt, Sydney

Esthetique Spa International Downtown Metro Toronto Convention Centre(North Building - Hall C) Toronto (Ontario) Canada

Sydney Evening Training session with clients

T: + 450 434-4738 F: + 450 435-2027 Email: info@spa-show.com

*Please note that this program is subject to change without notice.

Phone 1300 246 435 for further details.

Nov 1-2

Nov 11-13 Cosmoprof Asia Hong Kong Convention & Exhibition Centre, 1 Harbour Road Wanchai, Hong Kong Tel : +39 02 796 420 Fax : +39 02 795 036

E-mail : sogecos@cosmoprof.com

ANSWERS TO TEST YOUR KNOWLEDGE A1. 80%.

OMVEDA Ayurvedic Beauty Workshop Creating a unique and distinctive ambience that embraces genuine, traditional and ancient Ayurvedic therapies for your spa, OmVeda products are formulated from the basis of the vedic scriptures and traditional health and beauty recipes. OmVeda Signature treatments are based on traditional rejuvenating techniques. OmVeda conducts regular 1-3 day workshops, which include: ! Overview of the Ayurvedic philosophy ! Identifying Vikruti (constitutional state of the person) ! Introduction to Herbology ! Signature Skin and Body treatments and techniques for face, body and scalp Call OmVeda on 1 300 662 383 to book your spot. Find out more about OmVeda by visiting www.omveda.com

A 8. Apple. A 9. p63.

A2. LED 218cm2 and Laser is 2cm2 A 10. Transdermally. A3 Mentoring, Business Structures, Regulations, Taxation, Client Growth, Business Operations, Human Resources, Services, Life Skills, Ongoing Education, Networking, Business Benefits, Legal issues, Financial Matters and Investments. A 4. Improves the appearance of unsightly vascular blemishes, skin tags and acne. A5. Microdermabrasion, Lymphatic Drainage, LED, Electroporation, Cryotherapy, Skin Tester. A6. For the transdermal treatment of melanomas. A 7. 1 – 3 MHZ.

A 11. No. A12. Therapeutic Goods Administration. A13. SIB09 is the new Beauty Training Package. A14. Decongestant, anti-bacterial and antiinflammatory. A15. NICNAS – National Industrial Chemical Notification and Assessment Scheme. TGA becomes involved if therapeutic claims are involved. A16. Reduces inflammation, enhances micro-circulation, lymphatic drainage and immune response.

APJ 95


ingredient research

Perfluorodecalin – a new advancement in skin oxygenation One of the mechanisms of improving skin vitality is by enhancing the oxygen levels of the skin. We know that oxygen is carried through the blood by erythrocytes that carry haemoglobin. Having adequate levels of haemoglobin in the blood is vital not only to the health of the body, but also to the skin, as blood also transports valuable nutrients that internally nourish it and give it a healthy glow. Additionally, skin needs oxygen to assist in the production of collagen, elastin and other elements necessary for a healthy skin condition. As we age the circulation in our capillaries deteriorates, thus decreasing the level of oxygen and nutrients reaching our skin cells. This further leads to dehydration of the skin.

activity. Oxygen enhances collagen formation in fibroblasts among many other actions within humans. Perfluorodecalin, a perfluorocarbon, is one of the first cosmeceutical ingredients to be approved by the FDA in the US for use in cosmetic products. This can be explained, as perfluorodecalin is not a drug but a synthetic molecule able to store gases such as oxygen and carbon dioxide. In other words, this molecule acts as a replica of our body’s cellular breathing process. As such this unique substance may be described as a cosmeceutical, in that its function can be classified as being between a cosmetic and a pharmaceutical.

GENERAL CHARACTERISTICS We know that skin normally renews itself approximately every 28 days. However, if oxygen and nutrients are diminished, the cell reproduction process is slowed down, and the new skin cells are not as healthy, resulting in premature ageing and the manifestation of fine lines, wrinkles and a dull or sallow complexion.

Perfluorodecalin is a totally inert, steady, colourless and odourless substance. Among its less known properties it is both hydrophobic and lipophobic, and as a consequence it is soluble only in materials with some fluor content. Liquid perfluorocarbons react in the same way as solid perfluor polymers such as PTFE.

In aesthetics, procedures such as massage, which stimulate heat in the skin assist in improving circulation and drawing nutritious blood to the skin that may be hindered due to stress and other factors. On the other hand, gas phases in emulsions have generally been a nuisance for cosmetic formulators, in terms of accelerated destabilisation of micelles in creams. However, for many years, oxygen uptake in the skin has been an attractive cosmetic property. Increasing oxygen in the Stratum Corneum becomes equivalent to the search for the Holy Grail with its myth of Eternal Youth. Indeed, oxygen promotes metabolic processes within the dermis and viable cells to produce a higher state of

WOUND HEALING MATERIAL

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Perfluorodecalin is used as a wound-healing material in hyberbaric oxygen therapy. (ref. Roth and Weiss, Elsevier Science Inc., 1994). In hyberbaric oxygen therapy (HBOT) oxygen is administered in an environment where the ambient pressure has been increased. The ensuring hyperoxia and elevated pressure have a number of beneficial clinical effects, including the promotion of wound-healing. As an example in 1989 HBOT was approved for use in severely burnt patients. Much experimental and clinical data supporting the use of HBOT already has more than 10 years of information. With the use of


HBOT oedema can be decreased, also marginally viable tissue can be preserved. HBOT promotes wound closure and enhances host defences. Based on the wound healing studies it can be concluded that with Perfluorodecalin acne skin and seborrheic scalp can be treated and positive results expected.

GAS CARRYING MECHANISM The mechanism of natural gas carriers can be identified with the mechanism of erythrocytes, or red blood cells. They are very small cells, 33-10 microns, with generally no nucleus or internal membrane. Erythrocytes are mainly filled with the oxygen binding protein haemoglobin as mentioned earlier. The main functions of erythrocytes are to transport oxygen and carbon dioxide. They constitute 45 per cent of the volume of the 5-6 litres of blood that we carry. The oxygen molecules are bound by haemoglobin in a co-operative way. The gas-carrying mechanism of perfluorocharbons is fully comparable to the function of respiratory gases in our body. The diffusion of respiratory gases, oxygen and carbon dioxide is directly related to the partial pressures of these gases.

PERFLUORODECALIN AS A COSMETIC INGREDIENT Perfluorodecalin as a hydrophobic and lipophobic fluid is easily identifiable in emulsions as an interface micelle formation from oil or water networks. Such fluorinated materials depict traditionally thirdphase elements in emulsions. The characteristics of carrying gas at a controlled level of volume allow the creation of a fourth active gaseous phase in emulsions. Perfluorodecalin is a unique gas carrier and as such allows cosmetic formulations to solve problems of carbon dioxide cleansing or oxygen enrichment of cells. The gas-carrying capacity of Perfluorodecalin is a physical phenomenon and totally reversible through gas diffusion.

OXYGEN AND THE SKIN The issue of oxygen and the skin has received a great deal of media attention. It was demonstrated by Stanzl et al that the decrease in the oxygen partial pressure of the skin occurred with the increase of age and depended on risk behaviour such as smoking. In their study, Stanzl et al were able to point out a way of increasing the oxygen partial pressure of the skin by 100 per cent and of maintaining this increased status over a period of time. (28 days panel test). Comparisons were also made of partial pressure of oxygen (PO2) in the skin after 28 days treatment with products containing 2, 4, 6, 8 and 10 per cent Perfluorocarbons. The calculation of the correlation coefficient (r=0.978) shows a linear correlation between the amount of oxygen applied and the increase of the partial pressure in the skin. An optimal state of oxygen supply results in greater build-up of collagen production according to the publication in Luber Stryer Biochemie, 1979. The oxygen supply to each cell of the body diffuses over a distance of approximately 0.05mm. The uptake of oxygen in the cell is based on active transport mechanism between the cells and intercellular space. The increase of oxygen supply results in a stronger diffusion gradient, which allows the cells of the epidermis to take up the optimal quantity of oxygen for their metabolic processes.

The increase in skin moisture within the application period follows the same pattern as the increase in the oxygen partial pressure measured in the previous study. In contrast to known moisturisers, the effect remains at a higher level for several days. Another test examined the time element of the skin moisture levels of 30 women, aged 35-40 years. The increase in moisture within the application period followed the same pattern as the increase in the oxygen partial pressure, which was measured in previous studies. Again, in contrast to known moisturises, the effect remains at a high level for several days.

COSMETIC PROPERTIES Perfluorodecalin has specific surface characteristics. As mentioned previously, it is not hydrophilic or lipophilic, but homophilic, repelling other ingredients in the formulation and acting as a co-emulsifier. It creates instantly a third phase and stabilises the emulsion, increasing considerably the size of the micelle walls by up to 20 microns. The emulsion, before Perfluorocarbons addition and after Perfluorodecalin addition was studied by microscope. The addition of Perfluorocarbons changed the emulsion structure, reducing the amount of air bubbles. The surface change of Perfluorocarbons was very negative, minus 7100 mV at pH 5.5-7 and hence Perfluorocarbons is a very easy material to formulate with. It can be mixed into the final formulation at the end of the processing, like the fragrance. No special preparation is needed, except when it is used as a gas carrier. The gas-loaded product has to be incorporated at room temperature into the emulsions to avoid gas diffusion, which is accelerated by high temperatures. No incompatibility with any cosmetic ingredient is known, and as a very inert material, Perfluorocarbons are not sensitive to any chemical reactions. Perfluorocarbons allow the skin to breathe to optimum levels and to self regulate better in polluted environments. It is an ideal detoxification agent, as it cleans the skin of carbon dioxide and enriches the oxygen levels of the skin. Perfluorodecalin does not interfere with the normal functions of the skin, like perspiration or the pH barrier, and doesn’t clog the pores. Perfluorocarbons provide an instant refreshing effect to the skin due to its very emollient characteristics, creating a thin-film application and in some cases providing even water-proofing properties. At relatively low concentrations it boosts SPF. Perfluorocarbons do not absorb UV-light, but with even a small addition of say 0.4 per cent they give a positive effect to a sunscreen. It has been concluded that Perfluorodecalin restructures the emulsion creating the third phase and improves the distribution of UV-filters. It also modifies the rheology and improves the application.

STATISTICS TO CONSIDER:

! !

At age 30, the loss of oxygen levels in the skin drops by 25% At age 40, the loss of oxygen levels in the skin drops by up to 50% In highly polluted environments the oxygen loss to the skin can be even higher.

If you are interested in a skin care line using Perfluorodecalin view 2B’s Bio Serum 02 and Bio Oxygel on pages 75 and 77.

MOISTURE CONTENT OF THE SKIN The moisture content of the skin was tested using an emulsion, which contained 10 per cent Perfluorodecalin. Skin profile, change of depth of wrinkles and change of number of wrinkles after 14 days of application were tested using the emulsion twice a day and the same product with Perfluorocarbons was analysed. Twenty women, aged 2555 years were tested.

REFERENCES Perfluorocarbon Nanoemulsions for Quantitative Molecular Imaging and Targeted Therapeutics. Kaneda MM, Caruthers S, Lanza GM, Wickline SA. 1. Flutec PP Fluorocarbon Liquids, ISC Chemicals Ltd, table E5-2/4 2. King, A. T., Mulligan, B. J., Lowe, K. C. Biotechnology, 7, 1989, p1037-1042.

APJ 97


Bikini Saver®– In-Grown Hair Cream The Original and the Best.

Are you suffering from In-Grown Hair? Razor Burns and Bumps? Reactions to wax? Looking for the perfect Brazilian after-care? For the last 15 years Hovan’s Group has helped tens of thousands of people find relief from the discomfort of In-Grown Hair. Three of the four main ingredients are organic and natural: Resorcinol the exfoliator and will peel away dead skin tissue. Vitamin A promotes growth of healthy skin tissue. Bromelain, from pineapple, assists exfoliation and soothes irritation & Tea Tree oil helps to control bacterial contamination. 100% lifetime success with daily application! Available at Beauty Salons near you.

hovan’s® group

Suite 202, Level 2, 696 Pittwater Road, Brookvale NSW 2100 Tel: (02) 9938 2111 Fax: (02) 9938 5988 Email: sales@hovansgroup.com | www.hovansgroup.com.au

Val Glover-Hovan

no. 1 trainer

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Wake up with make up that won’t wash off. Val Glover-hovan has received the AAM Lifetime Achievement Award from the American Association of Micro-pigmentation and Awards for Excellence in the Cosmetic and Cosmetic Tattoo Profession

Australia’s First and Most Respected Teacher and Practitioner of Cosmetic Corrective Tattoo, Recommended by Beauty Professionals, Medical Practitioners, Cosmetic, Plastic and Laser Surgeons

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Prepping for bikini season is an intensive process, but with the range of in-grown hair treatment products from Hovan’s Group, becoming body beautiful and bump-free is a breeze. There’s nothing that makes you feel less like donning your bathers and heading for the beach than an unsightly bikini line or depilatory damaged skin. One solution is the Hovan’s Group range of in-grown hair products, which promises to wipe bikini blemishes and bumps off the map, and is suitable for the face, neck, body, legs, bikini and underarms. A highly respected name in the cosmetic industry, Hovan’s Group is based in Sydney and distributes its range of in-grown hair treatments internationally. Established in 1975, its advanced formulations have been perfected through continuous research and have evolved into three breakthrough products – Bikini Saver, In-Grown Gold Medi-Cream and In-Grown Gold Medi Lotion. Dubbed ‘from Down Under for down under’, Hovan’s Bikini Saver is a highly effective yet gentle cream developed for in-grown hairs around the bikini line. The natural active ingredients work on skin and hair at a cellular level, and whether you remove hair by waxing, shaving, laser or electrolysis it can work wonders. In addition, the In-Grown Gold Medi Cream or Lotion treats and helps prevent ingrown hair, razor bumps and sensitivity to waxing, shaving, electrolysis and laser hair removal. Suitable for all skin types and colours, the formulation includes Vitamin A (Retinol), bromelain, tea tree oil and the exfoliating ingredient Resorcinol. It works by peeling away dead skin cells and helping to regulate the growth and activity of epithelial skin cells and promote new growth of healthy cells. Bromelain enzyme, derived from pineapple, aids exfoliation and soothes irritation. The use of tea tree oil offers natural antibacterial qualities to curb bacteria and help control skin irritation. Application takes around 30 seconds and, as it is concentrated, only a small amount applied in a thin layer is required. For optimal results, the leave-on formula should be applied morning and night for two weeks, and once daily thereafter. Hovan’s Group is a recognised name and is a regular exhibitor at beauty, spa and medical expos internationally. Principals Leslie Hovan and Val Glover-Hovan are the driving forces behind the company and have been involved in the Australian cosmetic industry for over 30 years, offering treatments such as corrective and makeup tattooing.

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Leslie and Val have grown and diversified the business to an international enterprise with more than 40 distributors and an excess of 2,000 direct customers in Australia, New Zealand, Singapore, the Middle East, United States, Canada and the Caribbean.

For further information phone +61 2 9938 2111 • 1300 88 66 55 email: sales@hovansgroup.com www.cosmetictattooaustralia.com

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APJ Vol 1 2009