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Aesthetics Practitioners Journal

Journal

AESTHETICS

PRACTITIONERS

The official publication of the Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network ISSN: 1836-9812

Volume 7. 2010

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The shape of things to come

THE DYNAMIC DUO MAKING AN IMPACT

2010

Volume 7.

Cavatation + Electroporation

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Whittling away cellulite and contouring at the speed of sound ㈵


Herbal Aktiv Peel®

Better than cosmeceuticals...?

The aim: To provide an effective solution for a variety of skin

RBX Red imaging (opposite page, below) shows the result of improved hydration of the skin after using Dr. Spiller Biocosmetic skin care.

conditions with minimum trauma to the skin, quick recovery and normalisation of the skin.

The method: corrective treatments with Herbal Aktiv Peel

®

followed by supportive and balancing care with Dr. Spiller Biocosmetic. The corrective phase is completed in five days.

The reason: Like the skin’s natural acid mantle, Dr. Spiller’s

proprietary Hydratain® emulsions are of the type ‘water-in-oil’. They lead to a quick re-establishment of the stratum corneum barrier, thereby reducing dehydration, inflammation and hypersensitivity. This effectively supports the skin’s natural cell renewal, recovery and normalisation processes.

The results: Before photos (opposite page, top) were taken following seven years of cosmeceutical care. After photos were taken two months later. They are the result of two Herbal Aktiv Peel® treatments combined with Dr. Spiller biomimetic care.

Improve the appearance of: • Wrinkles • Fine Lines • Sun Damage • Freckles • Sun Spots • Pigmentation

• Acne/Pimples • Scarring • Enlarged Pores • Blackheads • Milia • Stretch Marks

For information on how you can offer these results to your clients

visit www.omniderm.com.au or call 1300 301 007


FACT!

Dr. Spiller Biocosmetic

Dr. Spiller’s ‘Collagen Cream’ obtains its rich blue colour from Azulene, an extract of the German chamomile

Dr. Spiller creams use innovative Hydratain®

BEFORE: August 2009

AFTER: October 2009 Yvonne B, Salon Owner, Carindale QLD

technology to help reduce dehydration, inflammation and hypersensitivity. BEFORE

AFTER (six weeks later)

RBX Red: vascular conditions of skin. Note redness around cheeks, nose and chin. Image credit: Elegant Image ACT


year as it will continue to offer you a level of education you will not find anywhere else.

There is a great deal on body wellness and body treatments in this issue, and we have also included a wonderful article by Dr Pugliese on Glycation that you should also read. If you didn't attend the Sydney International Beauty Expo read the article Beauty and Wellness - An Industry in Transition as this will update you on how the industry is evolving and the new trends. There is a great business articles from Caroline Nelson that will help your business grow so check it out.

Editor’s Letter I would have to say that of all the journals the summer issue is the most exciting issue for me. I am very much aware of the hard work that goes into running any business for all of us and the end of year is a time when most of us are given the opportunity to take a break and breathe a little slower and spend a little time celebrating with friends and family. Most importantly, also taking time out to quietly review our achievements, or even our failings for that matter, learning from them and planing how to do things better in the coming year.

Gain the best knowledge you can and then trust your instinct to guide you on the necessary changes you will need to make in the New Year. Do you need to add a new technology, become more proficient in what you already have, or focus on fine-tuning your internal structures? Do what is needed to oil the wheels of progress. If you are an employee invest in your education, take an independent initiative to continue to invest in your knowledge after all, it is your career you are investing in. Let APAN guide you through this journey. We have the resources and the expertise to give you professional advice. Fuel the passion you have for your profession and success will come more easily. Invest in your knowledge, put it out there and promotion and good opportunities will come to you.

Editor Tina Viney Phone (07) 5593 0360 Fax: (07) 5593 0367 Email: info@apanetwork.com Web: www.apanetwork.com Typesetting & Graphics Mark Viney

Print Post Approved. Circulation 6000

Tina Viney Chief Executive Officer Editor APJ

Journal Advisory Board Terry Everitt (Education) Wendy Neely (PR & Marketing) Dr Douglas Grose (Scientific) Caroline Nelson (Business)

The Aesthetics Practitioners Journal is the official publication of the Aesthetics Practioners Advisory Network Pty Ltd, a network organisation established to service the needs of the aesthetics industry in the area of professional development and business networking. The Aesthetics Practitioners Journal is published quarterly for the benefit of its members and subscribers and aims to inform and educate its members on better business practices and industry advancements. All editorials and articles that are submitted for publishing remain Cover: VOGUE IMAGE GROUP the property of Aesthetics Practioners Advisory Network Pty Ltd. Reproduction in part or in whole is not permitted without prior Phone: 1800 554 545 or written authorisation by the publishers. Every effort has been 03 9821 0033 made to ensure that all scientific and technical information Email: info@vogueimage.com.au presented is as accurate as possible at the time of publishing. Web: www.sorisa.com However, members and readers are highly recommended to also seek external advice from their accountant, registered financial adviser or healthcare professional for their recommendations. Please see page16-17 for further details.

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Produced for Aesthetics Practioners Advisory Network Pty Ltd ACN 136 987 169 ABN 25 136 987 169

There is a full report on the A5M conference, so please check this out and plan to be there next

Design, Production and Artwork Kharis Enterprises Pty Ltd 8 Parkdale Court Robina Q 4226 Phone: 07 5593 0360 Fax: 07 5593 0367 Email: info@apanetwork.com

As always, I am committed to your progress.

Publishers Kharis Enterprises Pty Ltd

Accounts Payable Aesthetics Practioners Advisory Network Pty Ltd (APAN) PO Box 5448 Q Super Centre Qld 4218 Australia

Advertising and Marketing Tina Viney & Mark Viney Phone: 07 5593 0360 Kharis Enterprises Pty Ltd 8 Parkdale Court Robina Qld 4218 Fax: 07 5593 0367 Email: info@apanetwork.com

We have some incredible stories in this issue, which I know you will thoroughly enjoy, so if you are going away please make sure you take your copy of APJ with you. I also recommend you read my CEO's Report as I make some important announcements and give you a brief summary as to what we have achieved this year as an organisation.

ISSN: 1836-9812

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APAN, INDUSTRY REPORTS AND NEWS 6-7 8-10 54-55 40-42 66-67

product performers

CEO's Report Aesthetic Bulletin Member Profile Beauty and Wellness – An industry in transition APAN Student Plus Membership Package

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SCIENTIFIC RESEARCH/ANTI-AGEING /INGREDIENTS 44-46 47-47 50-52 54-55 56-58 72-74 76-77 88-89 90-93 94-98

Rising Temperatures – Sun Benefits and Sun Protections Anti-Ageing Medicine and Orthodontic Appliance Therapy Treatment Glutathione – The Master Antioxidant for health, longevity and youthful skin Scientific News New Breakthrough in Dermal Anti-Ageing using Laser Phyto-biomodulation and Hyaluronic Acid The Era of Bioenergetics – Good Vibes versus Bad MSM – Methylsulfonyl Methane The use of Biofeedback Electromagnetic Energy in Therapeutic Treatments The Good, the Bad and the Ugly – The inside story of Brown and White body Fat The Impact of Glycation on the ageing of the skin and body

BUSINESS, PERSONAL AND PROFESSIONAL DEVELOPMENT 12-13 19 20 21 26 30-31 32-34 64-65 81-87 68-71

Business in Brief Attention Employees A Success Story Why settle for just recognition when you can have it all Member Profile What happens behind closed Treatment-Room Doors? Food for thought: Cheffresh – A skincare with a difference The birth of an Organic Formulation Spotlight on Products Kalgoorlie strikes Gold

EDUCATION, TREATMENTS AND TECHNOLOGY 11 16-18 22 28-29 36-38 75 ㄰

78-80

Scientific Skin Analysis for Dermal Therapies How you can achieve guaranteed Successful cellulite treatment results Pure Invention – A revolution in Hydration New Scientific Breakthrough for greater stability and advanced penetration of Vitamin C Fertility Treatments and the role of the aesthetic therapist A5M Certification Program for Allied Health Professionals and Aesthetic Therapists Achieving Eyebrow Perfection with Cosmetic Tattoo

SEMINARS, EXPOS & CONFERENCES ㈵

14-15 60-63

New Horizons in Beauty & Wellness Annual Anti-Ageing & Aesthetic Medicine Conference

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CEO’s REPORT

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rate that gives clients up to 20 weeks to pay off their purchases with them. If you are a NSW Member and would like to access this service, just drop us an email or call us and we will send you the brochure on this to get you started.

Suncorp Bank has also approached us and we have negotiated an even better interest rate for members than previously available, with a very low Merchant Service Fee of just 0.79% for credit card transactions and very low monthly fees of $26. This is good news for our members as credit cards seems to be the currentcy of the day for many. These new rates could mean a saving of thousands of dollars a year for our members.

We have also just finalised a first for the industry the

APAN STUDENT

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AD

It would seem also that the signs of business growth are starting to show, as many salons we are speaking to are confirming that business is picking up as the year progresses. And as the barometer start to also rise so winter woollies will be packed away and many of our clients will consider doing something about that cellulite. Is your salon, clinic or spa ready? Have you put together not only facial, but also body packages? Everyone wants to feel and look good particularly over Christmas and the summer holidays. The demand for body treatments are very much on the increase and new exciting technologies are making these treatments highly successful, so here is your chance to grow your business further.

NEW DEVELOPMENTS ㄰ 㤵 㜵

In September we launched our "Pay as

you go Beauty" initiative that allows ㈵

APAN MEMBER SALONS in NSW to introducing a payment scheme to their clients with a very reasonable interest

Partner offering APAN members discounted rates to promote their salons on their web portal, which has grown substantially over the past few years. Cosmetic Choice is well supported also by medical societies, who are promoting their appearance-enhancement services, so many consumers are seeking direction from this site.

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VISORY NE

Even here in Queensland winter has been very cold this year and although we are well into spring the weather has been surprisingly chilly. Out in my garden yesterday I saw the first shoots of my hyacinths breaking the soil, promising a new set of flowers for the summer season.

This has been a tough year for many, but here at Head Office we are taking note of your needs. Members have reported how thrilled they with our strong focused on member benefits.

management option to start earning an income .

CosmeticChoice.com has also come on board as a Strategic

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Dear Colleagues and Friends

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CTITIO and insurance for students to help them better prepare for the workplace by A R NE providing them with extra-support and an excellent, more advanced, risk P RS

The secret of success is to do the common things uncommonly well. John D. Rockefeller (1839-1937)

AESTHETIC

PLUS MEMBERSHIP that is offering a double-package of membership

Meanwhile our own APAN website has quadrupled in consumer visits to our site www.apanetwork.com and we believe that this growth has happened due to the weekly updates that we conduct bringing new information to both the industry and consumers on a very regular basis. My CEO's Members Blog is extremely popular and filled with great useful regulatory and industry information on government issues and tools that can assist your business to grow. We have also launched our Facebook site, so visit us when it is convenient for you.

NEW APAN REWARDS As you may all know we had a membership campaign with a $20,000 business stimulus package reward, which was won in September by a very delighted Leslie Morgan-Wesson from Lady at Bay from Neutral Bay in Sydney. But there is more, we have now decided to introduce two new initiatives for the industry to join or renew.

DEFCOM LOYALTY CARD DEFCOM is a Discount Loyalty Card that provides members with point-of-sale discounts and benefits from a large number of companies and businesses across Australia. It was originally set up to service the Defence Force, Ambulance, Police and other defenders. We therefore have negotiated to include APAN Members and we have purchased reward cards to give to all our members who have joined from June this year and onwards. We believe you deserve to belong because you are the defenders of the nations wellness and beauty needs. Members don't have to earn points - they simply show their card and save! With the many discount options this card could be very useful in saving you money time and time again, so members, please make good use of it.

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DAVID JONES GIFT VOUCHER Furthermore, all who join from November 10th to January 15th 2011 will also receive a $50 Gift Card from David Jones. DJs is considered a prestige brand and so we have chosen to

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also reward you with this gift. Women in particular, love retail therapy and what better time to do that than over the Christmas period to spend on perhaps a Boxing Day special. You are such givers, so now we want it to be your turn. By joining APAN now we can put that extra $50 gift card in your purse for you to indulge. We have secured all these rewards because we recognise your value.

NEW HORIZONS As the most important shopping season is approaching salons need all the help they can get. APAN has been approached to introduce an expo/conference program in support of regional Australia. We are starting off with our first event in Hervey Bay at the beautiful Peppers Resort in Queensland (see further information on page 14-15l). There is a lot of buzz about this event and we anticipate huge support from salons in the region. In fact, there are some who are flying up from Sydney and Melbourne to enjoy the whale watching as well as take part in a very unique and special industry event. Our intention is to introduce these events in other States as well, but Queensland is our first point of call.

CONTINUED MEMBER BENEFITS Since our launch as an organisation in May 2009 we have enjoy steady growth and incredible support both by the industry and numerous companies who have joined us as strategic partners. Additionally, peak medical bodies such as the AustralAsian Academy of AntiAgeing Medicine (A5M) have been incredibly supportive of us. Together, as a combined effort from both organisations, we staged this year the first educational program for aesthetic therapists in conjunction with A5M's medical conference, which was highly successful. This is an amazing initiative and we believe with A5M's guiding influence these events will continue to grow and provide us with some incredible high quality educational topics on anti-ageing in the future. Due to this alliance we are also delighted to announce that A5M has launched a new Certification Program written specifically for allied health professionals as well as for aesthetic therapists (see page 75). What this means is that you can now gain certification in anti-ageing from a medical society, how good it that?

the Corporate Platinum Membership for $485 which also secures you a Staff Induction Program Template to ensure that all your staff adhere to the APAN Code of Ethics. This activity alone immediately raises the standard of your staff and further enhances your credibility. All APAN Members are given the Code of Ethics, but Corporate Members also receive the staff template for this document, which has been put together with the support of leading medical and business professionals. When you belong to APAN you will gain the very best.

Furthermore, your membership dollar supports us as an organisation to continue to fight for your interests with government and regulatory bodies. Together we can make a difference. To join you can download a membership form from our website www.apanetwork.com or reverse the cover sheet that has come with this journal to find an APAN Membership Application Form. All you have to do is complete it and fax it or post it to our address on the form. If you wish to activate the term payment option you will have to either phone or email us and we will get in touch with you to finalise this.

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As we come to the close of another year and approach the festive season I would like to extend my best wishes to you all for health, happiness and every success in all you undertake. Join us as together we can create a stronger voice and achieve more for your future.

Tina Viney Chief Executive Officer

There are also numerous other plans in the pipeline, which we will unfold in 2011. As you can see our intention for launching the organisation was not to compete with others, but to introduce a strong members program that will benefit everyone and support your credibility and growth.

PROGRESSIVE PAYMENT OF YOUR MEMBERSHIP

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We believe that every professional has a responsibility to their clients and themselves to invest in their credibility and benefit from the programs we develop for the industry, whether they are business owners or employees. This is why we have just launched a progressive payment option for paying your membership. You can now join APAN and pay just $50, and for a small fee of just $5 we can spread the rest of your membership fee over the remaining 11- month period that comes to less than $23 per month, making it affordable for everyone. You will not only get your full membership kit and your DEFCOM LOYALTY CARD, but also qualify for your $50 DAVID JONES GIFT CARD. However, remember that the DJ gift voucher is a strictly limited offer that will expire on the 15th January. To secure this voucher you will need to join now.

BeautWise Pty Ltd. ㄰ 㤵 㜵

Credibility, benefits and rewards are what APAN is all about. By joining as a member of our community of practice you will achieve all this and the ongoing support of Australia's leading and most progressive standards body. As an employee you only need to join as a Gold Member for $298. As a business, you have the option to go for

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AESTHETIC INDUSTRY BULLETIN

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This section will present the latest news, training dates and other Aesthetic Industry information.

Can your clients benefit from financial assistance in purchasing your products and services?

If you are a NSW member of APAN you now have an additional member benefit tool to help your business grow. PAY AS YOU GO BEAUTY was established through a strategic alliance between APAN and Retails Sales Development to provide a loan facility of up to $8000 to salon clients who wish to undertake packages through a low interest rate loan at a substantially lesser amount to credit cards.

Pay as you go Beauty loan facility allows clients to borrow up to $8000, with a repayment period of 20 weeks for a low The

10% interest. Unfortunately, the facility at this point is only available to NSW Members, however, we trust that with time it will be able to be extended to other States as well. If you would like a brochure on how to register with this service please email: info@apanetwork.com or phone 07 5593 0360 for further details.

Pay as you go Beauty A joint initiative of

Anti-Ageing causes and solutions for Hair Did you know that that hair, like the skin, can show premature ageing and this is because it has to battle with the same enemies - sun exposure, pollution, toxic products and cell-renewal slowdown. Hormonal changes, lack of protein and medication prescribed for high blood pressure and cholesterol can turn healthy looking hair into a stressed-out, overdried mop. But the number one culprit that causes flash-fried hair is the sun.

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At least the skin has in-built defences against sun exposure it produces melanin to protect itself, which is why we tan. On the other hand, hair does not have a backup plan. If you do not cover your hair when you are in direct sunlight, the hair cuticle can crack or break. Once UV rays have done their damage the hair strands dehydrate and colour fades. Protecting hair, conditioning it and hydrating it should also be part of your clients' antiageing regime.

Eve Taylor OBE Lifetime Achievement Beauty therapists, holistic therapists, nail suppliers, teachers and students were among those honoured at the inaugural Babtac (British Association of Beauty Therapy & Cosmetology) and Cibtac Awards. The event was held at London's Kensington Roof Gardens and was attended by over 100 finalists and their guests, with awards presented by television personality Sian Jones. While most winners knew of their awards in advance, there was one surprise award, the "Lifetime Achievement Award", which was presented to former Babtac chairman Eve Taylor OBE, who took to the stage and could not hide her delight. "I am so proud of this award," she said. "And delighted to work within a profession that I love and in an industry that is just growing and growing. It has enabled me to travel the world and I am still learning new things every day”.

As for thinning hair, women are more likely than men to be troubled by thinning hair and, one in five suffer from female pattern hair loss. Most women have half the hair volume at 50 that they have had at 15. Hair loss in women is influenced by the dramatic fall in hormone levels after menopause. Other causes are wearing tight ponytails or other hairstyles that pull on the scalp, as well as stress, illness and hormonal imbalance. There are various Ayurvedic treatment oils that offer great nourishment to hair follicles and hair cuticles. For more severe cases Regaine (the brand name of the drug Minoxidil) is the only officially recognised treatment proven to slow hair loss. It comes in two strengths for women regular, with two per cent Minoxidil, and extra strength with five per cent. This treatment is applied to the scalp twice daily on a regular basis to assist with hair growth.

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Bag it all this summer! Peel and post your way up to a Gucci. From the 1st September 2010 until the 31st March 2011 BeautWise Pty Ltd is giving away a beautiful pink, luxurious, Italianmade Gucci bag. So what do you have to do for a Gucci? It's SIMPLE! Log on to our website www.beautwise.com.au and post the before, during and after feet pictures of using Beauty Feet?. Complete your entry by filling in your contact details. Remember to get all your friends and family voting for you, to increase your chances of winning!* Plus there's more!

Poorly fitted bras linked to breast cancer Many people say that bras causing breast cancer is just a myth. It is true that bras do not cause breast cancer per se, but ill-fitting, too-tight bras can help cancer growth since they can prevent your body from excreting dangerous cancercausing chemicals. And it is commonly known that over 80 per cent of women wear the wrongsize bra. The main reason why tight bras are bad for breast health is because they restrict the lymph flow in your breasts. There are numerous lymph pathways and lymph nodes in the armpits, under the breasts, and in between the breasts. Normally the lymph fluid washes out waste materials and other toxins away from the breasts, but bras (and especially push-up bras) inhibit this action, so toxins can start to accumulate in the breast, and that can help cancer to develop. In other words, bras inhibit the way the body normally cleanses itself and gets rid of cancer cells and toxins like PCBs, DDT, dioxin, benzene and other carcinogenic chemicals that cling to the body's fatty tissues like breast. In fact, if you find a lump in your breast, it may very well be filled with lymph fluid that was not able to move away from the breast tissue. Bra wearing may also be connected to cancer in other ways. Wearing bras slightly increases the temperature of the breast tissue, and women who wear bras have higher levels of the hormone prolactin. Both of these may influence breast cancer formation. For further research i n f o r m a t i o n v i s i t h t t p : / / w w w. a l l natural.com/bras.html and read the article on Bras and Breast Cancer by Ralph L. Reed, Ph.D.

Every entry has a chance to win one of 12 combo packs of our popular Duo Collagen Mask? and Beauty Feet?, both made in Japan, for the total head to toe transformation! *Terms and conditions apply

For further information about the competition please visit: BeautWise

Ph: 0 7 3012 9494 Mobile: 0430 379 709 Email: wendyl@beautwise.com.au Web:www.beautwise.com.au

EVE TAYLOR VISITS AUSTRALIA Considered as one of the legends of Aromatherapy, Eve Taylor will be visiting Australia from the UK on the 13th November to 23rd November to conduct training on the world-renowned Systems of Analysis ™ to eager therapists. Eve will be touring Brisbane, Sydney, Melbourne and Perth. Ms Taylor's visit is sponsored by SkinScience Pty Ltd, the Australian Distributors for her products in Australia. She will be accompanied by her lead educator Marie and Chris Taylor, marketing and export manager for Eve Taylor (London) Ltd. "We are so lucky here in Australia to be having her touring for 10 days - she is such an inspiration and a true Aromatherapy legend, as well as being interesting, great fun and a lovely person. And still bursting with energy at 77 - it must be all of those essential oils", said Kim du Bois a distributor for Eve Taylor Professional Aromatherapy Skin and Body Care in Australia.

Eve Taylor's Training Itinerary BRISBANE: Sunday 14th November 10am-4pm Product and treatment demonstrations Monday 15 November 9.30am 5.30pm: Training Eve Taylor System of Analysis ™ SYDNEY: Wednesday 17 November 10am-4pm: product and treatment demonstrations. Thursday 18 November 9.30am 5.30pm: Eve Taylor System of Analysis ™ MELBOURNE: Saturday 20 November 10am-4pm: product and treatment demonstrations. Sunday 21 November 9.30am- 5.30pm : Eve Taylor System of Analysis ™ PERTH: Monday 22 November 10am- 6pm: Eve Taylor System of Analysis ™ For further information on training dates and locations phone 1300 127 045.

Natural Compatibles launches new instructional video Enhance by Natural Compatibles have just released their new makeup instructional videos shot with Louise, the National Educator, and the gorgeous makeup artist and international model Sarah Patricia. To view Sarah in action showing you how to achieve the perfect pout and the latest trends in smokey eys visit the link to the Facebook channel www.youtube.com/naturalcompatibles it is worth watching!

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Essential oils that topped the list ㈵

CHEDI SKIN MANAGEMENT CLINIC Celebrates Its 3rd Birthday

Recent research conducted by an independent laboratory confirmed that essential oils of thyme, oregano, cinnamon, clove, eucalyptus and tea tree are powerful weapons against antibiotic resistant hospital infections. Including some of these oils as an antibacterial spray in your salon may assist in minimising infection in the workplace. Also using them in body blends as well as for foot massages is recommended. For facial use appropriate dilution is recommend for these oils.

After 10 years dedicated to teaching beauty therapy APAN member Jacqueline Moulden decided to follow another dream she had and that is to own her own salon and so she established Chedi Skin Management Clinic in Beenleigh Qld, against all odds. Celebrating three years in October, Jacqueline invited clients and friends who joined her for a glass of champagne, while she shared with everyone her amazing journey. Her story confirmed that it pays to follow your heart in what is important to you. To add to her excitement, Jacqueline has just won the Quest Business Achiever's Award for the beauty services category. Several assessment tools were used to examine Chedi including feedback from clients, and a Secret Shoppers' campaign. (You can view a media write up by visiting www.beenleighalive.com.au.) Those who know Jacqueline know how passionate she is about education. She carries Thalgo and Payot skincare ranges and has just introduced the new Circadia treatment range that has recently been launched by Dr Pugliese. Jacqueline will also be involved in the educational program of this range in 2011 combining her two passions of advanced skin management and teaching. It can't get better than that. You can contact Jacquelien Moulden on 07 3807 3377.

BEAUTY BOOT CAMP A SUCCESS Good Looking Beauty reported a great success at this years Beauty Boot Camp staged at Castle Hills, NSW. The event saw over 60 eager salon and spa professionals attend to participate in three days of intensive training where they learned all about the newest technologies from Europe and the US. Business Coach Paul Carbis was flown in from Queensland "by popular demand" and people profiler and entrepreneur Sandy Gayer flew in from New Zealand. Company chief executive Mariza Nuttle has been a CIDESCO qualified therapist since 1995 and has worked with companies in Italy, France, Greece, the US and South Africa. She specialises in the application of equipment technology in the contemporary salon and spa. She is a highly committed trainer and educator and together with her husband Marco they run one of the fastest grown distribution companies in Australia. For further details phone Good Looking Beauty on 02 9894 8068 or visit www.goodlookingbeauty.com.au

Staying on top of Infection Control Claire Stephens (left), April Jorgensen (middle), Herica Ortega Ortega (right)

AACDS Student of the Year Award 2010 ㄰ 㤵 㜵

The Australasian Academy of Cosmetic Dermal Science (AACDS) is pleased to announce their Student of the Year award to Herica Ortega Ortega (International student category) and Claire Stephens (local student category). Both students graduate with the Advanced Diploma of Cosmetic Dermal Science and were awarded with Gold Membership to APAN. Herica is from a medical background and will be returning home to Mexico to practice as a Cosmetic Doctor. Claire is from a beauty and psychology background has gained employment at Bella Hart (Perth) as a Dermal Therapist.

It would seem obvious, but how many times have we failed to adhere to proper hand cleansing protocols, which are so important in maintaining infection control. Here is the rundown: ! Use plain soap A National Institute of Health study found that regular soap is just as good as antibacterial soap at killing germs. ! Use warm water Soap lathers better with warm water and active ingredients on the surface of the soap are released most easily. ! Take you time Rub the wrists, between the fingers and under the fingernails for 15 to 40 seconds. If you need a quick timer imagine singing Happy Birthday twice through and this will do it.

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Scientific Skin Analysis for Dermal Therapies

POST-GRADUATE STUDIES

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Are you ready to step up your knowledge? ㈵

Gay Wardle is delighted to announce the launch of a new curriculum and training program for aestheticians and clinical dermal therapists who are looking to upgrade their skills.

Scientific Skin Analysis for Dermal Therapies

Gay Wardle

will allow you to take your training to a higher level that will ensure you improve your skin therapy results.

What is different about this training? In today's competitive environment you no longer need just a better understanding and a more scientific approach to how you view the skin. More importantly, you need to know how this information will best translate when implemented into the treatment room and through its practical use. Theory is meaningless unless it has a dynamic practical outcome. This training will empower you with the knowledge on how to correctly determining appropriate equipment technologies and products for each individual skin type and condition.

THIS TRAINING WILL TEACH YOU: ! A more scientific approach to understanding the skin ! How this knowledge can then be used when selecting equipment technology ! Correct protocols in layering technologies for better treatment outcomes ! How various skin conditions will benefit from specific technologies ! The correct order of application ! What ingredients you should be looking for to address various skin conditions and why ! Common errors when working with technologies and ingredient interaction ! Why and how to prepare the skin to achieve optimum results

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This course will help you transform how you perform your treatments through a new understanding of the relevance of skin cytology and equipment technology. You will gain the knowledge that will allow you to more confidently make the right choices that will ensure you achieve the best possible results in your treatments.

Gay Wardle holds extensive qualifications and first hand experience in the correct implementation of advanced protocols for the best possible results. She will help you take the guesswork out of how to achieve premium results in your treatment.

TRAINING COURSES AVAILABLE IN EVERY STATE.

For more information and to book your place Phone: 0418 708 455 or Email: gay@advancedaesthetics.com.au Web: www.advancedaesthetics.com.au


BUSINESS NEWS IN BRIEF

Authorised Suncorp Bank representative is Ken Hussey. He can be contacted on 1300 791 114 or email sales@eftposmerchantservices.com.au and quote your membership number.

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COSMETIC CHOICE

We are also pleased to announce the launch of an exciting new partnership between APAN and C o s m e t i c c h o i c e . c o m . a u . Cosmeticchoice.com.au is Australia's first and most comprehensive cosmetic, beauty and wellbeing portal dedicated to professionals in the field as well as consumers who desire to reach their trustworthy source of information fast and be able to find their relevant service providers in the quickest time.

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APAN

AESTHETICS PRACTITIONERS ADVISORY NETWORK PTY LTD ACN 136 987 169 ABN 25 136 987 169

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developed a range of payment solutions that make it easier than ever for your clients to do business with you.

Best of all, with Suncorp EFTPOS you'll get:

!

APAN SECURES TWO NEW STRATEGIC ALLIANCE PARTNERS Always vigilant to achieve cost-saving benefits for its members, APAN has just finalised two new Strategic Partners: Suncorp Bank and Cosmetic Choice. In a bid to secure even better merchant banking rates a new agreement has been signed between Suncorp Bank and APAN.

WHY CHOOSE SUNCORP BANK: The easier you make it for your customers to pay you the better. That's why Suncorp Bank has

! ! !

Daily settlement, seven days a week, into a Suncorp business account, which means you can use your cash the next day. Plus your money can work harder by earning interest sooner. Merchant Service Fees can remain fixed for the term of your contract. Blended rates for Visa/Master Card. Free stationery

Contract term: 4 years Account start-up fee: $80 Annual Membership Fee: $20 Terminal Rental Fee: $26.00 mobile Merchant Service Fee: 0.79% Debit Card Fee: $0.10 Minimum Monthly Fee: $20 Contract Break Fee: $350

COLES CUTS HEALTH, BEAUTY PRICES Continuing to remain competitive, Coles has reduced the prices of hundreds of health and beauty products. Jon Church, Coles consumer spokesperson, told Retailbiz that this is just one way for the giant retailer to win over its customers this spring. "Coles sees the price reductions as an investment in the hope that we will sell more products," he said. ㄰ 㤵 㜵

As part of the latest phase of its 'Down Down' campaign to lower the cost of customers' everyday shopping, more than 500 prices on products from soap and shampoo to toothpaste and vitamins have been permanently cut. Prices across the entire health and beauty department have fallen by an average of almost 10 per cent with hundreds of everyday products. Popular brands are featured, including Listerine, Colgate, Nivea, Gillette, Elastoplast, Panadol, Loreal and Swisse vitamins.

The Coles 'Down Down' price campaign lowers prices permanently on the products customers buy most across the store.

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This collaborative initiative is between these two organisation will focus on advancing the global breakthroughs and latest news and information in cosmetic, beauty and wellbeing, as well as the extraordinary opportunities that new information and communications technologies are making possible for improving educational quality around Australia and the world. This partnership couldn't come at a more meaningful time and without doubt it will bring special opportunities to salon and clinic owners in all categories. As an ongoing process, Cosmetic Choice is delighted to offer to all APAN members a 10% discount on their advertising on their site. For further information on Cosmetic Choice contact Mathew Jafarzadeh phone 03 9205 9430 Email: mathew@instantlaserclinic.com.au or visit: www.cosmeticchoice.com.au For more information about these and APAN’s other Strategic Alliance Partners phone APAN National Office on 07 5593 0360 Email: info@apanetwork.com or check out APAN’s Web: www.apanetwork.com

KEEPING YOUR MIND ON THE JOB The trend in today's busy business world seems to reward multitasking and performance under pressure rather than considering the quality of work and output benefits associated with a clear and focused mind. According to new research, seven in 10 Australian adults are unable to concentrate for more than half an hour at a time, leading to concerns that modern technology and the pressures of multi-tasking are having a negative effect on workplace productivity. According to healthy-mind expert and long-term business adviser Martina Sheehan, the research should serve as a wake-up call to businesses. In the aesthetic industry where concentration is critical to the demand and expectations of quality results, focus and concentration must be fostered. Healthy living through diet, exercise and quality nutrition should not only be promoted to the clients, but most importantly for the staff if they are to perform at their peak.

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Creating an experience and providing a unique offer to customers was the advice that founder and managing director of The Retail Doctor Group Brian Walker offered during his discussion at the Retail 2010 Conference. "It's now all about providing that 24/7 experience where you'll be guaranteed that your customers will be loyal to you, where you'll build a relationship with them while also providing them a unique offer," he said. "You need to develop a unique offer by asking yourselves 'what are you known for?' and 'what are you offering?' Until you do that you can't contemplate innovation." Walker added that in order to keep a customer loyal "there always has to something fresh", and this can be done by "revisiting, remodelling and refining the way you communicate your products and services to your clients". "For example, Apple has created experiential retailing through its visual merchandising and it takes its customers on a journey by wrapping a story around the product they're offering." He also noted the positive impact that eCommerce is now having on the success of retail. "Social media provides the idea of social shopping and helps create an integrated community," Walker said. "Ultimately, there is a seamless integration of online and offline shopping that is currently helping small local markets move to the global market." To further support these findings the online research Recommended Retail Practice (RRP) Report that involved 1,000 respondents found that almost half of Australians say sales have lost their appeal and no longer act as a trigger to spend, despite improving signs of shopper optimism.

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According to Retailbiz over the past few weeks we have seen the Australian dollar steadily increasing as we are seeing a small signs of recovery for Australia from the global financial crisis. At 1700 AEST 29 September, the local dollar was trading at 96.75 cents, approaching the highest level since it reached 98.50 US cents in July 2008.

David Jones is Australia's most trusted department store despite one respondent stating they "trusted DJ before the McInnes saga but no longer", a consumer poll by MSI Global Alliance revealed.

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David Jones surpassed Myer by a small margin, with 32 per cent of respondents stating that Myer was the most trusted department store brand while DJs came out on top with 36 per cent. ㈵

In view of the above poll APAN is offering all who renew or join APAN as members from the 14th November to 15th January 2011 a David Jones Gift Card worth $50.

"Our choice to offer DJ gift cards is because in our opinion and from our research we believe David Jones carries some very prestige brands and offers a quality shopping experience," said APAN's CEO Tina Viney. "What we want is to reward those who join us with a fabulous GIFT CARD, which can be enjoyed over Christmas shopping for some guilt-free spending. When times are tough there is nothing like a bit of shopping to cheer you up, especially women who are always giving to others, and this incentive is aimed at adding a reward experience to our new members," Tina confirmed. Scott Gillespie, AMPCSC national marketing communications and sponsorship manager, said that consumers want excitement in the way they shop. While 50 per cent of shoppers love a bargain, people want to be engaged, and not even just in the store, but the store's website needs to also reflect the same engagement that is felt in store while people are doing their research," he said. The global retailing trend is all about engagement, not just discounting price. It's about offering consumers a fresh shopping experience. Experts say that while the internet is an important element in engaging with customers, the retailers that will be successful are those who use a wide cross-section of multimedia channels

to effectively and appropriately engage in ways that are relevant to their customer groups. Similarly, Gillespie said that the two factors that determine customer engagement are sustainability and multi-channelling. People are looking to living a more sustainable life, and so consumers want to spend with a company that is sustainable, whether it's their business practice, the way their product is made or whether they're supporting a specific cause-related initiative. Multi-channelling refers to having a strong online presence, e-newsletters Facebook, Blogs, Twitter all engaging consumers to your products and services. Australian businesses need to embrace the changes and take the next step to see what works and learn from other companies.

THE AUSTRALIAN GOVERNMENT'S PAID PARENTAL LEAVE SCHEME

If your baby is born on or after 1 January 2011 you may be eligible to receive Paid Parental Leave. The Australian Government will introduce a Paid Parental Leave (PPL) scheme for new parents who are the primary carers of a child born or adopted on or after 1st January 2011. An eligible person will receive taxable PPL payments at the level of the Federal Minimum Wage, currently $543.78 a week, for a maximum period of 18 weeks. In most cases, the person will receive the payment through their employer. More information on the scheme is available on the Family Assistance Office website at: http://www.familyassist.gov.au

STRONGER DOLLAR EQUATES TO CHEAPER IMPORTED GOODS ㄰

DAVID JONES TOPS "MOST TRUSTED BRAND" LIST

EXPERIENCE IS KEY TO RETAIL SUCCESS

Joseph Capurso, Commonwealth Bank currency strategist, has confirmed that there are

a few underlying reasons for the strong Australian dollar. "One of the reasons is that the US dollar is weak against a lot of other currencies globally such as the British pounds, Swiss francs and Japanese yen," he said. "Another reason closer to home relates to the Australian economy, where there is an increase in inflation pressure due to the increases of interest rates, which has been happening for about a year. This has made our interest rates very high compared to America, which is very low and is putting an upward pressure on the Australian dollar. Commodity prices are also

high; most Australian exports are commodities, and as global commodities go up it tends to put upward pressure on our dollar." According to Russell Zimmerman, Australian Retailers Association (ARA) executive director, importing products will become far cheaper. "Electronic retailers have already told me that there has been a price deflation of 29 to 32 per cent, which is extremely significant." It is also believed that cosmetics, clothing and footwear that are coming from overseas will see a price reduction, making them more affordable. This is a great time for salons to negotiate special deals with their suppliers for the upcoming end of year Christmas and summer season promotions.

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THE AESTHETICS PRACTITIONERS ADVISORY NETWORK PRESENTS ㄰

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NEW HORIZONS IN BEAUTY & WELLNESS Educational Seminar & Expo Event E I S O RY N

A must attend event!

Location: PEPPERS Pier Resort, Hervey Bay Regional Queensland APAN is delighted to announce that due to popular demand we are launching an EDUCATIONAL SEMINAR & EXPO EVENT in regional Queensland. Salons and spas and their staff will have the opportunity to attend an exceptional SEMINAR PROGRAM as well as view the latest product launches from industry suppliers who will be exhibiting and promoting their SHOW SPECIALS at the idyllic location of PEPPERS PIER RESORT in Hervey Bay. If you are from another State you are also most welcome to attend. We have secured accommodation from $156 a night at this luxurious 5-Star venue.

WHY YOU SHOULD ATTEND The seminar program will feature the latest information and new developments for our industry from leading experts that will transform you! Here is our seminar program:

THE BEAUTY INDUSTRY IN REFORM Presented by Tina Viney Time: 9.30am - 10.15am

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The beauty industry is undergoing a transformation that will shape its future. These changes are dictated by what consumers are now seeking and driven by the changing trends in market forces. Are you aware of what changes you will need to make and adapt to? This seminar presented by Tina Viney should be attended by all who desire a long-term carreer in this profession. Tina is respected as a leading expert and educator in the aesthetic industry. For over 20 years she has worked tirelessly to grow the aesthetic industry's credibility and reputation through the introduction of innovative strategies and through the negotiation of advanced educational pathways that will help the industry retain its relevance in a changing world.

MAXIMISE YOUR CHRISTMAS SALES AND HAVE A MORE PROSPEROUS 2011 presented by Caroline Nelson Time: 10.30am - 11.15am

This must-attend seminar by one of Australia's leading business coaches has been designed for the business owner who wants to motivate their

team to achieve higher Christmas sales and a more prosperous 2011. Caroline will teach you her proven techniques to train your team in the art of "leading potential customers down the path towards purchases". Learn the way to get each customer to visit you more often and spend more at each visit. You will also learn how to tap into what makes your customers tick and which buttons to press that will seal the sale.

UNDERSTANDING TOXICITY THAT COMPROMISES SKIN APPEARANCE AND HEALTH INTEGRITY Presented by Dr Dzung Price Time: 1.00pm - 1.45pm Dr Price will share with you some insightful information on how toxicity may be compromising your skin therapy results and simple ways to achieve a healthier-looking skin and a younger, more energetic body. Dr Price is a renowned holistic integrated medical practitioner with qualifications in Nutrition and Environmental Medicine, Naturopathy, Acupuncture, Bio-energetic Medicine and Homotoxicology. She is the co-founder of CHI Health Innovations, a company devoted to the provision of bio-energised natural health products for wellness and beauty. This lecture will empower you with new solutions for better results with your treatments.

THE NEW GENERATION FACIAL EFFECTIVE PROTOCOLS USING TECHNOLOGY TO ADDRESS VARIOUS SKIN CONDITIONS AND ANTI-AGEING CONCERNS Presented by Bonnie Sleep Time: 2.00pm - 2.45pm. Bonnie Sleep is respected as one of the best-qualified trainers in equipment technology in Australia. Bonnie will bring to you a compelling seminar that will present step-by-step protocols on how to effectively combine technology through specific sequences to address

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a variety of skin concerns from acne, rosacea to mature ageing skin. You will learn how the various currents target the cells and what you can expect as a treatment outcome. Bonnie will also address effective ways of moving a client from a traditional facial to a more resultsoriented treatment package.

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EFFECTIVE ANTI-AGEING SOLUTIONS THROUGH COSMETIC TATTOO Presented by Val Glover-Hovan Time: 3.00pm - 3.45pm Val Glover-Hovan, award-winner and internationally renowned as a leading educator in cosmetic tattoo will present to you her exciting journey in cosmetic tattoo, and what training as a cosmetic tattooist can offer you and your clients. She will share the latest global trends in this profession and what is needed to achieve continued success, as well as key considerations for risk management.

Why not bring your partner or family and enjoy a wonderful stay at this five star destination while you enjoy the NEW HORIZONS IN BEAUTY & WELLNESS Educational Seminar & Expo Event. SEMINAR AND EXPO FEE: APAN Members $35 Non-APAN Members $40. Special rates for group bookings.

WHY PEPPERS PIER RESORT Positioned waterfront opposite the famous pier on Urangan Beach the multi-award winning Peppers Pier Resort provides a unique vantage point from, which to enjoy all the natural wonders of Hervey Bay. Located only 10 minutes drive from the Fraser Coast airport and two hours from the Sunshine Coast, Peppers Pier Resort Hervey Bay features a range modern 5-Star apartment style accommodation. You can choose from 129 self-contained one, two and three bedroom suites, all featuring a spa bath and balconies and most offer views over Hervey Bay and Fraser Island.

ACCOMMODATION BOOKING INFORMATION We h a v e s e c u r e d s o m e i n c r e d i b l e accommodation rates. All accommodation is booked direct with Peppers Pier Resort, Hervey Bay under special APAN Conference Accommodation pricing.

Accommodation type:

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1 Bedroom Suite (1 king bed only - max 2 guests) $156**per night serviced (normally $260) 2 Bedroom Suite (2 x king bed only or twin available - max 4 guests) $211** per night serviced (normally $377) 3 Bedroom Suite (1 king bed, 1 queen bed + 2 singles - max 6 guests) $279** per night serviced (normally $429) 3 Bedroom Penthouse(1 king bed, 1 queen bed + 2 singles - max 6 guests) $592** per night serviced. **Special Room Only rates are only available to guests returning the b o o k i n g f o r m ( d o w n l o a d f r o m A PA N ’s w e b s i t e a t http://www.apanetwork.com/docs/Apan%20Accommodation%20F orm.pdf) to Peppers Pier Resort by 5pm on 12th November 2010. All room types are subject to availability, and 50% prepayment of the total stay is required at the time of booking to secure your reservation.

ATTEND AND WIN Each delegate who registers by the 15 November will receive A Statement of Attendance as well as a beautiful LEATHER TRAVEL DOCUMENT WALLET (240mm x 140mm) valued at $30. Preregistration is essential. New Horizons in Beauty & Wellness will also feature numerous lucky door prizes that will be drawn every hour.

HOW TO GET TO HERVEY BAY The majority of visitors to Hervey Bay come here by car. Hervey Bay is only 3-4 hours north of Brisbane. The Bruce Highway runs by this scenic region making it easily accessible by private vehicle. There are several daily flights to Hervey Bay and Maryborough if your looking for an easy way to travel. Virgin Blue flies daily from Sydney to Hervey Bay with airfare starting at $99 plus fees. Qantas operate direct daily flights from Brisbane to the Fraser Coast with airfares starting at $125 plus fees. So if your looking for a quick and comfortable way to travel Qantas and Virgin are the way to go, with convenient connections from most Australian capital cities. Pre-booking is essential. Booking close on 15th November 2010. If you would like to register or exhibit please visit www.apantwork and click on the link to NEW HORIZONS IN BEAUTY & WELLNESS link. For further details contact APAN Ph: 07 5593 0360 or email info@apanetwork.com

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How you can achieve guaranteed Successful cellulite treatment results by Tina Viney Cellulite has always been a concern for women, but in an era when Botox and the numerous skin-smoothing technologies can wipe away years from the face, the presence of cellulite on the body is even less likely to be tolerated by the majority. As the causes of cellulite are quite complex and can range from hormonal, genetics, diet and lifestyle factors, it is often difficult to provide a straightforward solution to the problem. For example, diet and exercise, although they may assist, are unable to eliminate the problem. While there are several temporary non-invasive solutions, most have not been considered as credible or worth investing in. However, the advent of cavitation technology has changed all that introducing a new era for achieving excellent fat loss.

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One of the most sophisticated devices to combine technologies for the treatment of cellulite is IMPACT, manufactured by SORISA. The technological foundation of IMPACT is the perfect combination between the use of ultrasound at 40KHz and electroporation to destroy the subcutaneous fat deposits in different areas. The combined action of ultrasound and an active gel act to sculpt the body, causing significant inch-loss, acting not only on the localised adipose tissue, but also on cellulite and skin flaccidity.

Ultrasonic cavitation, unlike liposuction, is a non-surgical, noninvasive treatment for cellulite, which is predominantly localised adiposity. It is a relatively new treatment in aesthetics that is continuing to gain recognition by both medical and aesthetic professionals because of the excellent results that it can deliver, and hailed as the most credible technology that can finally successfully

address the elimination of cellulite.

WHAT IS CAVITATION? Cavitation is the formation of bubbles inside a fluid, liquid or biological tissue caused by acoustic vibrations. These bubbles may be stable, grow and collapse, c a u s i n g a mechanical action on the tissue that liberates the energy t h e y h a v e accumulated. The c a v i t a t i o n capability of ultrasound is related to the frequency, which also determines the size of the bubble. The aim of cavitation is to destroy the adipose tissue, thus liberating the stored fat in a non-invasive way, reducing the volume of the area from the very first treatment.

WHAT IS ELECTROPORATION? Electroporation is a technology that has been used in the medical field to deliver medication through the skin. It consists of the use of mid-

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frequency currents to momentarily open the cell membrane. This activity enables the penetration of both ionic and non-ionic substances and larger molecules, allowing the incorporation of a greater number of active ingredients to be introduced into the skin. Electroporation is also known as messotherapy without needles.

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DOUBLE ACTION ENSURES SUCCESS

an additional technology by SORISA further enhances the speed of this elimination while maintaining the client's comfort. This is where the treatment sessions with the Presor-3 offer greater benefit.

Treatment sessions using the IMPACT are divided into two parts: ! FAT BREAKDOWN First, the ultrasonic action is introduced combined with the appropriate gel, which is penetrated with the aid of the electroporation current. The combined action of ultrasound, electroporation and an active gel further act to sculpt the body, causing significant inch-loss. This technology successfully targets not only the localised adipose tissue and cellulite, but also revives flaccid skin. These techniques are carried out together (ultrasound and electroporation in the same probe). Thus the combination of cavitation and electroporation provide an overall body treatment, effective not only on localised fat deposits, but also on other beauty problems such as cellulite and sagging.

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While the ultrasonic cavitation technique can successfully blast fat cells, it is not the end of the concern. When fat is dissolved and liquefied, this and the resulting toxins need to be successfully excreted from the circulatory system and quickly eliminated from the body. While the blood has the action of the heart to aid in circulating it around the body the lymphatic system does not have a mechanism to move the lymph through the body. It relies on movement and exercise or other pressures on the body to do so. With IMACT this elimination takes place however, with the assistance of Presor-3

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EFFECTIVE ELIMINATION Following this, lymphatic drainage is performed using pressotherapy to ensure impurities

are effectively mobilised and eliminated through the circulatory and lymphatic system. The P re s o r- 0 3 o ff e r s a v e r y comfortable yet effective procedure that enhances the elimination of oedema that can result due to toxins and wastes as they are released into the blood and lymphatic system. Tests confirm that the Presor-03 offers highly beneficial lymphatic drainage compared to traditional techniques in terms of satisfactory results, client comfort and in making the therapist's work easier and quicker. It is the combined procedures of breaking down the fat cells followed by the effective elimination of liquified fat and toxins that guarantees the success of the treatment.

OTHER BENEFITS OF THE PRESOR-03 By assisting in cleansing the body the Presor-03 can be also beneficial in supporting overall health in addition to cellulite. The Presor-03 therapy enhances tissue regeneration, boosts lymphatic drainage, improves blood circulation and the condition of blood vessels, enhances the body's immune system, lifts skin texture and tone, and, by removing toxins, significantly decreases the appearance of cellulite. It offers immediate results in relieving feelings of tiredness, jet lag, hangover, stress and low energy. In addition to its detoxification benefits and its ability to clear tissue of debris, it is also helpful in many other areas. These include relieving PMT, hormonal imbalance, headaches, muscular aches and pains (related to exercise or injury), sluggish skin, obesity, speeding up recovery after cosmetic surgery, oedema, fluid retention, varicose veins and circulatory disorders.

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WHY SORISA? If you are considering introducing ultrasonic cavitation to your business there are certain things to consider. Being such a successful treatment will mean that we will see several devices using ultrasound cavitation technology flood the market. This is where you need to exercise caution when investing in such technology. When it comes to standards and quality assurance SORISA leads the way. Their ISO-9001 Certification guarantees the quality of all their devices, while SORISA's research programs and the development of proprietary technologies keeps them ahead of market demand. With over 28 years and a strong commitment to scientifically-sound equipment innovations SORISA has become a driving force globally in the development of electrocosmetic technology leading the growth, not only of the company, but also of the aesthetic industry. Furthermore, their companion technologies ensure a synergistic blend of functions and interactive modalities to ensure optimised results and long-term success in advanced treatment outcomes.

WHY VOGUE IMAGE GROUP? Vogue Image Group is the distributor of SORISA in Australia. For over 14 years they have offered the aesthetic, medical aesthetic and spa industry credible solutions through, not only leading technologies, but also advanced techniques. Luca Mora is a Director of Vogue Image Group and is also a passionate, committed and qualified therapist and educator. Her thorough training and continued support ensures that she brings not only technical information, but also practitioner skills to her training. In today's competitive market you need experts who can offer you much more than just product knowledge. Constantly developing her skills and knowledge Luca freely gives of her expertise ensuring that every business achieves a high level of success through thorough professional training and advanced knowledge that can guarantee excellence in service and results. On such a credible foundation every business can achieve market recognition and continue to accelerate their growth.

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For further information phone Vogue Image Group 1800 554 545 or 03 9821 0033 Email: info@vogueimage.com.au or visit www.sorisa.com

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ATTENTION EMPLOYEES

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Be REWARDED because you deserve it!

APAN recognises your value and the important role you play in the success of any business, and we want to not only support you, but also reward you.

APAN GOLD MEMBERSHIP APAN GOLD MEMBERSHIP was also created to suit also your needs. We provide you with: ! Professional Services and Consultation to assist you in your professional development ! Advice on wages and other entitlements ! Code of Ethics – the industry's best ! APJ – a journal that is recognised as having the most comprehensive educational articles ! Online professional community interaction ! Discounts for seminars and conference ! DEFCOM Discount Purchasing Card ! DAVID JONES $50 GIFT CARD ( if you join by the 15th January 2011) ! Easy Progressive Payment option – fully tax deductible ! Advice on further education and career recommendations

Who else is offering you this much!

APAN offers you REWARD, RECOGNITION and SUPPORT ㈵

Join today and be part of Australia's fastest-growing member-based network standards body for the Professional Beauty and Aesthetics Industry.

APAN STANDS FOR EXCELLENCE Application forms available at the back of this journal's cover sheet or download one from www.apanetwork.com


A SUCCESS STORY

A return to "good old fashion personalised service" through a New Era Advanced Cosmeceutical delivered by Inskincosmedics

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Passionate, optimistic and very much a visionary Marie EnnaCocciolone is the perfect example of where following after your dream can take you. Establishing her own skincare house Inskincosmedics in 2008 came as a result of over 25 years experience in the beauty industry and having been blessed with the opportunity to experience the many facets of the industry, gaining valuable understanding of what works and what doesn't. She had very clear objectives as to what she wanted to bring to the industry a company and products that salons could feel a part of, that they could relate to, trust and feel comfortable to do business with. Within 12 months of being in business, Marie had successfully launched the Sircuit®Skin cosmeceuticals range utilising chiral technology, and emerginC cosmeceuticals a spaceutical range that is now enjoying five star accommodation in some of the most reputable and exclusive spas. These include multi-award winner Harbour Day Spa in Queensland, Harper's Bazaar No.1 spa in Australia and The Spa in Milton, NSW. Both brands Sircuit®Skin and emerginC are enjoying international recognition. Shortly after, followed the launch of the Australian-made inskinLED phototherapy device and microdermabasion cosmedi-peel age management centre. Yet when asked what is her most treasured achievement, without hesitation Marie responds emphatically that it is established win-win relationships with some of Australia's finest salons that are now her clients.

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Marie’s goals don’t stop there. “Long-term, we wanted to produce a SPF30+ and had been considering skin needling and the ultimate dream of developing our very own Australia-made ‘cosmedical’ skincare range. Needless to say, within the following 12 months we launched Mineral Pro SPF30+ and, in partnership with Babak Moini skin-inject, our own skin needling device," Marie said.

The launch of Inskincosmedics has been very successful and has been received with enthusiasm from the industry. Marie confirms that its success has been as a result of listening to their clients and understanding their individual needs and together establishing a plan on how they can achieve their long-term goals.

Despite the fact that competition is fierce Marie believes that the success of Inskincosmedics is based on the fact that it offers innovative cutting-edge modalities, with products that are superb in their own right. "If they did not encompass high-tech, highperformance and exceptional treatment outcomes they wouldn't make the grade for us," Marie stressed. "Furthermore, our products are backed by industry experts. Our team of business development managers and trainers are second-to-none and offer a client service experience to match. Even the best products can be difficult to sell without regular in-clinic training, off site product and selling courses, three to four weekly service calls from business oriented BDMs, monthly promotional activity and rebate programs and incentives." There is no doubt that the company's position in the marketplace is without a doubt top-end. With highly achieving salon partners, products and devices that can deliver superior results and treat even the most challenging skin conditions means that their clients can offer the most sophisticated, first grade treatments and enjoy a winning lifestyle. As the company's success continued so a further dream was able to come to fruition their greatest pride of all, the launch of the totallyAustralian made and owned skincare range O COSMEDICS. "O represents timeless beauty, beauty through the ages and the empowerment that comes with feeling comfortable in your skin," Marie says. "Our formulations are the purest combination of medical grade ingredients and cosmetic science, powered by our world exclusive V8 peptide complex TM that works behind the scenes on the essential cell structure to age-proof your skin, accelerate healing and rejuvenate ensuring healthy-looking, radiant skin," Marie confirms. Moving forward O is taking Australian salons back to the "good old days". Furthermore, O is a salon-only brand through a legally binding agreement that prohibits it from being sold on the internet. It offers 100 per cent mark-up, a three-tier loyalty program that rewards salon owners, staff members and in a market first the consumer. Marie further confirmed that O is Inskincosmedic's chance to bring good old salon values and expectations back to the industry. O ticks all the boxes it offers sophisticated technology, advanced product performance, profitability, no internet competition and brand loyalty reward.

If you would like to learn more about these products look for O COSMEDICS advertising in this issue of APJ. You can also email team@inskincosmedics.com or phone 02 9712 8288.

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APJ 20



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PURE INVENTIONS – A revelation in Hydration

At the recent International Beauty & Spa Expo there was a real commotion at the Absolute Spa booth. Having recently launched their PURE INVENTIONS® anti-oxidant drops crowds gathered to sample the delicious and nutritious drinks.

Skin science acknowledges that dehydration is the most important consideration that contributes to an ageing skin, and it is the first condition that must be addressed for any treatment to sustain any real results. However, true hydration must commence from within, and fostering this concept is every aesthetician's responsibility.

PURE INVENTIONS® was developed by a nutritionist and offers a unique line of PURE liquid antioxidant extracts that turns ordinary water into something more perfect for serving hot, cold or icy cold in your salon or spa or to complement your h o m e c a r e recommendations. Not only can you now ensure that your client will remember the value of adequate water intake, but also you can support their nutritional status through powerful antioxidants that are rapidly bioavailable in liquid form. Pure Inventions® comes in three categories and are all without calories, artificial sweeteners, caffeine and are preservative free – just add to water.

Fit+Slender Weight Management Formula

(yoghurt, porridge or dessert). Plus served cool, icy cold, hot or even in soda water or mineral water. Contains no fructose.

(a light herbal flavour with a hint of ginger) This is a delicious natural herbal supplement that helps curb appetite, increases fat burning, while blocking absorption of carbohydrates. It contains no caffeine or stimulants. Recommended to be taken prior to meals up to three times a day or as a lovely refreshing drink.

Pomegranate and Acai Berry Provides healthy support for the cardiovascular and immune system. Acai Berry is known as the energy fruit, plus resveratrol, which has amazing anti-ageing benefit.

Blueberry and White Tea One serving is equivalent of ½ cup of

Antioxidant Green Tea Extract ㄰ 㤵 㜵

Available in light Lemon, Raspberry or Tropical Offering good health in a glass. This powerful antioxidant supports skin rejuvenation, promotes natural energy and a healthy metabolism. One serving of Pure Inventions Green Tea Extract is the equivalent of 100mg of green tea or 11+ cups of brewed green tea. Naturally sweetened and great tasting – serve cool, icy cold, hot or even in soda or mineral water.

Signature Antioxidant Fruit Extracts Available in Pomegranate & Acai Berry, Blueberry & White Tea Nutritious beverage for the whole family – can also be enjoyed in food

fresh blueberries – one of the best known antioxidants for potency. Blueberries support memory, concentration and focus. White tea has one of the highest level of antioxidants of all tea varieties and helps to fight free radical damage, which may lead to premature ageing.

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Available individually or in Basic, Spa or Wellness package offers for salons and spas. Available for salon/spa use as well as a unique retail item.

Phone Absolute Spa Ph: 1300 262 275 or email info@absolutespa.com.au

APJ 22


PH Y TO C E U T I C A L CO C K TA I L T HE R A P Y INTENS IVE TREATMENT K I TS

IM M ED IATELY VISIBL E AND LONG L ASTING R ES U LT

Intensive FACE and BODY moisturizing treatment, that produces long lasting nourishment to your skin, thanks to the quickly absorbed active principles.

The first “Phytoceutical” FACE treatment based on vegetal stem cells. Biostem has a deep and efficacious anti-wrinkle affect, firming and elasticizing action on the skin.

The first “Phytoceutical” BODY treatment based on vegetal stem cells. Highly intensive action for physiological skin ageing, loss of elasticity and stretch-marks.

IN

CT ROSA

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For many years , our production philosophy established parameters to connect cosmetics to pharmaceutics. Our research, based on derma-cosmetics, proposes Active Ingredients with low molecular weight, ionic compounds and vehicular time within 2/8 minutes. Rosactive Professional – the only Cosmetic Line of high quality, which produces excellent results in very fast time. The high specialization and the reliable quality and quantity standard of our cosmetic compounds make ROSACTIVE Professional Line the ideal PARTNER for beauty clinics, medical centers and high specialized health SPAs that aim to distinguish themselves for quality innovation and efficiency.

MADE IN ITALY

For more information contact us p 02 9567 6485 e info@rosactive.com.au www.rosactive.com.au


High Performance Collagen & Whitening Masks that transform the skin

Variety is the spice of life and it is no different with the treatments and services we provide. While results should always be the ultimate objective that must never be compromised, what we must not lose sight of is the importance that the whole treatment is also a pleasurable experience that your client will look forward to repeating as often as possible. LonVitalité is a company that understands this. Since entering the Australian market two years ago the demand for their products has been nothing short of phenomenal mainly due to the quality, results and amazing feel of their incredible trans-epidermal collagen cloth masks for face, eyes and hands.

of pigmentation and relieves dark circles as well as bags under the eyes, while soothing any skin irritation. The highly active ingredients promote micro-circulation as well as skin regeneration.

Fast penetrating with immediate results, and attractively, packaged, they not only make a great cost effective treatment for the salon, but also offer an excellent retail item that you can sell to your client. Here are just some examples:

COLLAGEN FIRMING AND WRINKLE REMOVING RED WINE FACE MASK

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This collagen, firming mask has been impregnated with natural extracts of red grape seeds rich in polyphenols, providing multiple rejuvenating and antioxidant benefits, boosting the skin's metabolism. It also contains allantoin, aloe vera and plant based collagen as well as liquorice extract and witch hazel extract, D-Glucose, elastin and nano-type vitamin B. The nutrients instantly penetrate melting away the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. This mask will soothe and calm the skin, support regeneration and boost the skin's immunity. Great results can be achieved for mature skin, acne and problematic skin as well as rosacea and sensitive skin.

24K ACTIVE GOLD FULL EYE MASKS & FACE MASK ㈵

The ideal mask for intense hydrating treatment that delivers an immediate cooling effect. This mask contains Azulene, Collagen Amino Acids, Hyaluronic Acid, Niacinamide, Morus Alba Extract and 24K Gold. It boosts hydration levels, minimises the appearance

GOLDEN FLECK & GOLDEN POWDER COLLAGEN SALON MASK If you are looking for instant results these masks are the most concentrated in the LonVitalité range and offer incredible antiageing benefits. In addition to antioxidant and antimicrobial powers gold is praised for its ability to ward off UV damage, tighten lax skin and reduce the appearance of discolouration. Gold is also known to assist with improving circulation and lymphatic flow aiding in the elimination of toxins and tissue repair. Golden Fleck is indicated for dehydrated skin, while the Golden Powder is excellent for mature skin conditions that need more intense rejuvenation. The masks contain transparent plant based collagen, hyaluronic acid, gold powder, vitamin B5, Q10 and elastin.

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APJ 24


Additional facial collagen masks include C1, for whitening, moisturising and to combat pigmentation. and C2 with Collagen protein, hyaluronic acid and other special oils for a super hydration booster to melt way the effects of stressed-out skin.

C9 CRYSTAL MOISTURISING ESSENCE HAND MASK C10 WHITENING & MOISTURISING HAND MASK Two great hand masks individually packed and sealed in their own satchel that make wonderful salon treatments for tired, overworked or ageing hands. C9 is a super hydrating hand mask fortified with vitamin C, B5 and mineral essence. The luxurious wonderful treatments cost just $2.50 a pair. Why not spoil your clients with these super treatments as part of a package to make their facial treatment even more memorable, while taking care of their hands as well. It really can't get much better. Use C9 for intense hydration and C10 for whitening and moisturising. The mask is left on for 20 minutes and then the hands are massaged until the remaining essence is absorbed.

COLLAGEN CRYSTAL EYE MASK

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For that special occasion when one needs to look their best the Crystal Eye Mask offers an immediate skin boost that softens lines and wrinkles around the eyes. The gel eye pads are made to fit neatly under the eyes and are available in take-home packs of six pairs, making them an excellent retail item. Contains Collagen, hyaluronic acid, vitamin B5 and epidermal growth factor. A great product for salon and home-care use.

LonVitalité masks offer intense hydration through their unique formulations that ensure quick delivery of the active ingredients into the skin. While their ingredient penetration capabilities is excellent, they can further be enhanced through galvanic current. All packs are sealed and ready to go. No mixing or preparation need. Simply cleanse the skin open the pack and apply. This is the best time of the year to introduce LonVitalité collagen and whitening masks to your clients. They will love them.

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For further information phone LonVitalité on 07 5574 7773 or Email: enquiries@lonvitalite.com Web: www.lonvitalite.com

APJ 25


orchestrate greater results through the effective combination of equipment and currents and watching how they affect the skin. My favourite combination I have named Maximum Beauty. It combines Microdermabrasion, LED and vitamin infusion through sonophoresis. Having said that, I recently training in skin needling and I can truly see that becoming my favourite technology.

APJ 3. What is the most beneficial event you have attended recently? Marnie: I would have to say that the three-day Advanced Skin Analysis conducted by Gay Wardle would have to be the most beneficial. It gave me so much knowledge and a new understanding of how the various systems of the body affect the skin. That was so exciting.

APJ 4. When communicating with your clients how does your approach to skin therapy differ from when you first qualified as an aesthetician? Marnie: What I learnt in beauty therapy 17 years ago is now just foundational

Member Profile Each issue we profile a real professional who is also a real normal human being - we profile one of our APAN members. In this way we celebrate your involvement with us and allow you to share your views with other colleagues and friends. In this issue we present Marnie Browne from Melbourne, owner of Ferm Skin Therapy. Marnie trained as a beauty therapists 17 years ago, worked as an employee for three years and then went on to own her own salon. She is a passionate and committed therapist who always stays at the forefront of new developments and is a real innovator. Marnie owns a highly success salon now with a staff of five, including herself.

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APJ 1. Marnie, what do you love the most about your work? Marnie: I must admit I love the variety that our profession brings to us. There are never two days the same. I also gain great joy in making a difference in my clients' lives. In creating improvement in both their skin and their self-esteem. That is very fulfilling.

APJ 2. What is your favourite piece of equipment and why? Marnie: This is too hard to answer, as I don't have just one. I love the way that technologies interact and allow me to

knowledge. Today through the use of technology - both equipment and advanced skincare that is formulated through more microscopic carriers - the possibilities are endless. Before, your core business was waxing and tinting and most of the facials we performed were basically relaxing and pampering. That is because the molecular structure of products was too large. Today, we can achieve much more and clients have come to expect results rather than just pampering.

APJ 5. How important is balance in your life and how do you achieve it? Marnie: Very important, in fact, extremely important. I am fortunate to have great family and friends that I enjoy hanging out with. We often have dinners and catch up. My business has now grown sufficiently that I can work more flexible hours and take time out in the week if I wish to do so. I have an excellent manager whom I have had for 10 year and trust her explicitly.

APJ 6. What is your favourite passtime? Marnie: I love reading, and I also love mixing with our circle of friends. As my partner is a musician I like going to some of his gigs. I have a real passion for learning and I love reading my APJ journal and look forward to every issue and read everything.

APJ 7. When it comes to food what is indulgence for you? Marnie: Anything sweet - my favourite is sticky date pudding. ㄰

APJ 8. What is your favourite skincare product? Marnie: My two favourite products are Indio's Vitamin C and Phytostat from

Aspect. They are booth deliciously hydrating, and provide an instant gratification.

Marnie Brown can be contacted by email: marniebrowne@netspace.net.au or by phone: 03 9432 5600

APJ 26


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COLLAGEN MASKS that PERFORM Give your clients incredible results with a point-of-difference salon experience.

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the future in facials ㄰

Phone 07 5574 7773 Email: enquiries@lonvitalite.com www.lonvitalite.com


Now a new scientific breakthrough has been able to harness these problems and deliver a superior product with the added benefit of:

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1. Improved ingredient stability ensuring that the L-Ascorbic Acid maintains it optimum benefits in a stable environment that protects its deterioration

2. Incredible skin-penetrating capabilities allowing the product the ability to reach targeted and deeper skin levels that can ensure better skin rejuvenation and anti-ageing benefits

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3. Substantially minimise product sensitivity – comfortable on application and beyond JYUNKA's Multi-Action Miracle Fluid has been perfected through the use of a new technological development known as Qusome encapsulation that has both oilsolubility and water-solubility capabilities. This method provides the ultimate breakthrough solution to harnessing the power of pure, clinical-strength L-Ascorbic Acid for the restoration of younger-looking radiant skin.

WHAT ARE SUPER NANOCAPSULES? (SNC Qu-some) SNC Qu-some is an ultra-fine particle with a size of 100nm. It is created under international patent from high-purity water as a special emulsified molecule, and has a multi-layered structure (7-10 layers), like an onion. SNC QU-some can hold twice the concentration of active ingredients compared to liposome. SNC Qu-some's lipid membrane has excellent compatibility with dermal tissue. It is able to effectively and deeply penetrate the skin without facing obstacles of cuticle barrier. It penetrates the skin by dissolving itself progressively from the outside, layer-by-layer, and in small increments, releasing its active ingredients and assimilating to the dermal tissue, while in the process changing its shape, size and form. Through this mechanism, the SNC Qu-some is able to transport the active ingredients deeper into the skin and release them progressively over time (8 hours) into the different layers of the skin.

New SCIENTIFIC BREAKTHROUGH

for greater stability and advanced penetration of

VITAMIN C (L-Ascorbic Acid) Despite the incredible advancements of equipment technology that promise skin improvement and anti-ageing benefits, consumers and aesthetic professionals alike are constantly in search for active topical ingredients that can protect the skin and continue to strengthen and improve its appearance from the signs of ageing. ㄰ 㤵 㜵

Vitamin C (L-Ascorbic Acid) is undisputedly one of the market leaders in the field of skincare and dermatology whose anti-ageing benefits, skin-rejuvenating properties in effectively combating wrinkles, pigmentation and reducing UVB damage is backed by a large amount of reliable scientific evidence. Unfortunately, the practical use of L-Ascorbic Acid in skincare presents some difficulties due to its lack of stability when exposed to air, light and heat as it undergoes oxidation and becomes unstable and ineffective.

Because of its molecular structure, the SNC Qu-some can be an effective carrier of both oil-soluble and water-soluble constituents. The lipophilic layer holds oil-soluble ingredients and the hydrophilic layer holds water-soluble ingredients. SNC Qu-some is durable and can remain in a liquid solution without disintegrating. Unlike liposome, which is highly unstable and has the tendency to break, SNC Qu-some has superior stability. The stability of SNC Qu-some, in terms of concentration of functional capsules, is 1000 to 5000 times that of liposome.

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APJ 28


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!

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!

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Laboratory tests on SNC Qu-somes confirm:

!

Penetration starts immediately upon application and lasts for 8 hours Release of active ingredients continues for 12 hours after application Release of active ingredients exceeds that of traditional carriers by 200- 235% Stability tests over three weeks for colour, odour, viscosity and antiseptic properties; over 90% Stability of capsules were 2.00 trillion capsules per ounce at the time of manufacture – 1.96 trillion capsules per ounce after two years

RESULTS YOU CAN EXPECT WITH JYUNKA MULTI-ACTION MIRACLE FLUID Using this advanced technology, JYUNKA MultiAction Miracle Fluid works in a very unique way. On initial application the solutions feels slightly oily, but nourishing, hydrating and comforting without the characteristic stinging effect associated with LAscorbic Acid. Within 10 minutes of application, as the Qu-some starts to penetrate the surface of the skin, the skin becomes silky smooth, slightly moist to the touch with no sticky residue. Internally the skin feels firm, as if it is undergoing a comfortable internal toning, while externally, the skin takes on a lifted and radiant glow with fine lines disappearing and the skin looking noticeably younger and more refreshed. Within 10-15 minutes of application the skin looks as if it has had an advanced treatment result that you would expect from a twohour anti-ageing procedure involving advanced peels and the application of advanced equipment protocols.

Further continued results you can expect with Qu-some L-Ascorbic Acid JYUNKA Multi-Action Miracle Fluid:

! ! ! ! ! !

! ! !

Increased elasticity and firmness of the skin, giving it a taut, lifted appearance from the very first application Creates a flawless and smooth skin texture Restores luminous radiance to the skin without the aid of reflectors Significantly reduces the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles like no other product Provides effective relief from skin dryness and irritation Lightens the appearance of skin blemishes and hyperpigmentation Reduces the appearance of baggy eyes and dark circles Revitalises and energises tired skin Re-balances the skin by removing impurities and regulating excessive sebum

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HOW IT WORKS The amazing benefits of Jyunka's Qu-some encapsulated L-Ascorbic Acid include:

! !

Powerful antioxidant that protects skin cells from environmental and UV-induced damage Promotes the production of collagen in skin tissue, thereby strengthening skin’s dermis

! ! ! ! ! !

Re-activates the repair mechanism of the skin for enhanced skin rejuvenation and wound healing Improves skin barrier response, thus reducing epidermal moisture loss Inhibits the formation of malignant skin tumours due to severe exposure of UV damage Reduces the appearance of skin inflammation, calming erythema on the skin's surface Reduces the appearance of hyperpigmentation Has a very low risk of skin sensitisation

TESTIMONIALS "Jyunka is part of my daily beauty regime and it came in so handy while I was on The Apprentice Australia - long hard hours took their toll, but not on my face!" Carmen Parnos, businesswoman The Apprentice Australia contestant. "This is by far the best vitamin C serum I have ever used. The results are simply unbelievable". Tina Viney, CEO, Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network.

For further information on Qu-some L-Ascorbic Acid contact JYUNKA AUSTRALIA Ph: 03 9821 0355 or 0401 807 253 www.jyunka.com.au 1071 High Street Armadale VIC 3143.

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APJ 29


salon business ㄰

What Happens behind Closed Treatment Room Doors? by Caroline Nelson It's war out there. In today's competitive beauty industry you will be experiencing fierce competition. It seems that every day another salon or spa pops up in your market area. Because of this you need employees who are supporting and helping you to grow the business.

THE FOUR KEY FUNCTIONS

Unfortunately, many owners only find out after one of their team leaves their employ that customers were either not satisfied with the treatment or the customer service they were receiving.

!

In truth you don't know exactly what is happening behind the closed treatment-room door. You can only hope the training you have given will ensure the client receives a high quality of service but you will never know with absolute surety unless you regularly conduct secret shopping surveys. If your employees are not treating customers as valued individuals and if the customer has a bad experience, then they are not only unlikely to ever return, they will spread the word to their friends, colleagues and family. ㄰ 㤵 㜵

In addition, if the aesthetician is not confident in performing certain treatments on the menu she will never in a million years recommend these to the client - regardless of how important the treatment might be to the client's benefit. For this reason alone your business could be losing thousands of dollars every week of the year in lost sales. It is also the most common reason why expensive equipment is often left to gather dust from lack of use.

There are four Key Functions your employees need to work perfectly for your business to grow and prosper. They are: They need to keep each customer regularly returning (rescheduling), this is developing Customer Loyalty ! They need to find new customers for services and retail by making sure every new customer contact is a positive one and leads to a booking or a sale ! They need to increase average customer spend by up-selling or up-grading to additional services and retail to benefit the customer's skin and makeup needs to never lose a sales opportunity ! They need to be efficient in all work-related tasks and to eliminate wastage wherever possible From my observations I have found the reason many customers never return after the first appointment is because of poor customer service skills and lack of product knowledge by the aesthetician. And by product knowledge I don't just mean of your skincare, but of treatments as well. So if you check your data and find a significant percentage of first time clients never return then this could very well be the reason. To gather the information you need a mystery or secret shopper to visit and survey your business in order to observe and report on the quality of treatment application and customer service.

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APJ 30


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THE SECRET SHOPPER SURVEY Your Secret Shopping survey will show up any lack in employees customer service and treatment ability. Along with staff appraisals it should be used to identify any staff training for individual or group needs. Once you know what is really happening in your business then you are in the position to improve on any weaknesses and capitalise on all strengths.

You can, of course, engage a Secret Shopper company who will conduct the survey for you, at a cost of course. The other solution is to either design your own survey questions, or easier still, use the beauty industry survey question templates* I have created (information on how you can obtain this at the end of this article). Equally you need to know more about your competitors, so I advise secret shopping their businesses as well. So let's suppose you have your survey questions now, all you need is the right person to act as your secret shopper. Choosing the right person to undertake the Secret Shopping assignment is not just as easy as calling up a friend and saying, "Do you want to do me a favour and get the chance to have some beauty treatments at the same time?" I'm sure all your friends will be lining up for the free treatments. The only trouble is they may not have the attributes to successfully complete a thorough and meaningful survey report.

! ! !

Customer Engagement with employees Staff Performance Levels And the overall Customer Perception

They also need to know what it is they are looking to find out, they must know their mission, which means you will need to fully and completely explain the survey's objectives and what you want to learn from it. They must be totally impartial when filling out their survey report and evaluate only from the prospective of a customer. It is most important if you are using a friend or family member as your shopper that they do not let their objectivity get clouded and fail to report accurately because they don't want to "upset" you. The completely honest report is the only worthwhile report. Another necessity is for them to be completely anonymous as they are on a "secret mission" and therefore must not at any time reveal themselves to anyone being "secret shopped".

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Once the survey has been completed then comes the evaluation and implementation of the changes or corrections that may be necessary to improve customer service and satisfaction. The purpose of conducting your shopper survey is to identify both your and your competitors’ strengths, weaknesses and opportunities. The survey will inform you of how competitive your business is in your marketplace. It will uncover: ! What the Customer Experience was like ! Customer Satisfaction Levels

But how you use this information and implement any relevant changes and improvements will very much rely on how you evaluate the information provided by the survey. After all, the whole objective is to help you improve your service, keep customers happy, and to prevent them moving to your competitors.

I believe if you use the information from your survey in an effective way you will: ! Increase sales results ! Improve customer loyalty and satisfaction ! Improve operational procedures and standards ! Increase average customer spend ! Provide cost-effective team training ! Improve team morale and performance

Insightful knowledge about both your own and your competitors businesses is the information you need to plan the strategies that will improve productivity, increase profits and make you the leader in your trade area.

So what are the qualities that make a good secret shopper? To start with and possibly the most important quality is having good observation skills. Due to the fact they will be secret shopping a beauty business they will need to be very observant to notice the "little things" that matter.

While I believe in focusing on positives and not negatives, most surveys will uncover some areas needing change or improvement. Use this information to strengthen your business. If the survey uncovers a "below average" or "very poor" performance by one of your team members then you will need to address this situation with counselling and training.

However, if after this has been provided and no noticeable improvement is observed then it’s fair to say this employee could be driving your customers away. If that is the case then you will need to decide how to deal with this situation. Termination may be the only option.

Having said that in most cases "good" and even "excellent" results will come from the survey. So don't forget to celebrate good results with your team and congratulate them on their wonderful and professional performance.

KNOWING WHAT YOUR COMPETITORS ARE UP TO You also need to take a closer look at your competition so you will have a clear view of how to beat them at the game, and secret shopping their businesses will provide the vital information you need. Shop your head-to-head competitors, these being the local salons and spas in your immediate trade area. Often they are as close as in the same shopping mall or street as your business. These businesses are your biggest and most immediate threat. Because they are competing for your current and any new potential customers in terms of quality, service and price. On a daily basis they will be directly competing for and taking business that could or should be yours. These businesses need to be consistently monitored. At the end of the day insightful knowledge about both your own and your competitors’ businesses is the information you need to plan the strategies that will improve productivity, increase profits and make you the leader in your trade area. © Copyright Caroline Nelson 2010

Caroline Nelson is a beauty industry specific business coach and author of the Ignite Your Beauty Business For $uccess-Salon, Staff Policies, Procedures and Systems manual and the recently launched Salon Spa Secret Survey Kit *. For more information call her on 041 0600 440 or go visit www.nelsonbeautybusinessmanagement.com to see the full range of salon spa business tools.

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APJ 31


interesting products ㄰

Food for thought Cheffresh — A skincare with a difference by by Tina Tina Viney Viney Cooking is one of my great passions. What I enjoy the most is discovering fresh ingredients and identifying ways of combining them to create tantalising recipes that give you a real zing and please the palate. With this in mind you will understand why I was so thrilled to come across a fantastic product called Cheffresh Skincare at the Sydney International Spa and Beauty Expo, which not only took me by surprise, but also intrigued me to learn more. Owners and formulators Graham Sachse and Grant Maxwell are two charming gentlemen who exude health and vitality. They are both trained and experienced executive chefs and it was a joy meeting them both and learning more about their products.

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They say that a successful product is as much about quality as it is about innovation and Cheffresh Skincare definitely fits this category. Both chefs are very healthconscious and are fastidious about ingredients and the "chemistry" they can create when combined with care, knowledge and innovation, so this was one interview that I was going to enjoy as I delved into the story of this incredible product. This week I was able to interview Grant and I would like to share with you below our conversation.

APJ 1: Tell us about your philosophy, your relationship with ingredients and food and how it all begun in

Grant Maxwell formulating your skincare range? Grant: Food is an important part of life that not only gives us pleasure, but also sustains us. Our involvement with food and the recipes we create require an understanding of ingredients, and the effective blending of colours, aromas and textures. The success of these recipes relies heavily on quality and freshness of ingredients prepared in the most stringent of hygiene standards. When you think about it there is a real strong correlation between formulating food recipes and formulating skincare. Both Graham and I have travelled the world extensively and we have had the privilege of tasting and working with some incredible ingredients throughout our careers. Graham has had an amazing life having been the private chef of a Russian billionaire with whom he travelled on his private yacht and cooked exclusively for him and his guests. He then was hired by a very wealthy English family and

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APJ 32


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served in their employ for some time. They regularly received the Queen Mother as a guest so he was able to not only prepare food, but also meet some incredible people. However, the Cheffresh concept was first conceived while we were on holidays in Thailand, doing laps of the resort pool. Holidays meant relaxing out of the kitchen environment enjoying the local food and culture. Thai food is alive with aromas and flavours. Visiting their markets is also a wonderful experience, viewing and trying out their wonderful aromatic herbs and spices. Did you know that Thailand has over 45 mint varieties alone?

I was also very impressed by the skincare products too, both on sale and being used in the Day Spas in Thailand. These were brands we do not see in Australia, using exotic ingredients and unusual concepts and this gave rise to the inspiration for the birth of Cheffresh Skincare.

APJ 2: What made you transition into skincare and how did your background in food prepare you for the skincare industry? Grant: There is really such a similarity in preparing food and formulating skincare. The ability to read and follow recipes, an understanding of ingredients, the importance of hygiene, the effective blending of oils and liquids. If you can make the perfect hollandaise and mayonnaise without having them split and curdle then you have the skills to produce a hand cream. Like junk food there are also a lot of ingredients and fillers in the skincare industry that are far from beneficial and you would not want to feed your skin with them. Our knowledge as chefs enabled us to take skincare recipes apart and look at ways of improving the formulation.

Several spas and clinics were taken with the uniqueness of the concept and believed their clients would welcome it. The feedback also on the aromas, textures and purity of the ingredients was also extremely positive with many believing that the quality, presentation and tantalising aromas would keep people coming back. The brand is very different from anything else out there, and because we are looking at skincare from a different perspective this makes it unique and appealing.

APJ 5: In your opinion how important is innovation in helping you gain consumer interest and support in product development? Grant: Very important. There

CHEFFRESH MENU 㤵

FACE Watercress & Green Apple Spritzer Pumpkin & Carrot Seed Face Salad Day Time Café Latte Night Time Recipe Kiwi Fruit & Ginseng Eye Gel Thai Spiced Lip Balm

CHEF'S SELECTION

Q10 & Saffron Boast Face Serum

BODY Rosemary & Preserved Lemon Body Wash Shower Thyme Body Wash 3-in-1 Fat Free Body Dressing Tangerine & Macadamia Vinaigrette

HOME SPA Black Sesame & Walnut Tahini Scrub Detoxifying Body Chai Blood Orange & Almond Degraze Green Papaya & Pineapple Detox Mask Quandong & Guava Fruit Peel

are so many products on the market today, the competition is fierce and the expectations from consumers are also high. People HANDS & FEET want quality and purity as well as Liquorice & Lime Hand & Nail Cream attractive presentation, but in Pepitas & Lemongrass Foot Bar order for them to remember your Foot Custard Foot Moisturiser product you also need the element of surprise. Being completely different gives our products that edge and they are not only appealing to the senses and nurturing to the skin, they also offer a memorable experience. You feed your body with quality food to stay healthy, now you can do the same for your skin.

APJ 6: Who are the partners involved in Cheffresh and what role do they play in the company? Grant: There are only the two of us as directors Graham and me. We

Graham Sachse

and freshness of ingredients many of which we ingest, we see it fitting very well in hotels, spas and salons where food may also be possibly served. For example, products such as our Watercress and Green Apple Spritzer, Day Time Café Latte Crème, Rosemary and Preserved Lemon Body Wash would sit well in such environments. On the other hand, as our products are very niche they are also very well suited to smaller home-based salons that do not require large orders.

Even in cooking we have different strengths Graham is fantastic with pastry, whereas I gravitate more towards entrees and main courses. I love working with herbs such as mint, lemongrass, basil and lime leaves, and my favourite at the moment is sumac, which is a deep red berry that when crush, it bursts with a fresh citrus smell and taste.

APJ 4: How did you find the response from the industry at the recent International Beauty and Spa Expo in Sydney? Grant: We were amazed. We did not expect such a response.

I also love Moroccon spices. There are so many health benefits to herbs and spices that we can bring across into skincare.

APJ 3: Where do you see Cheffresh skincare fitting into the beauty and spa industry? Grant: As the uniqueness of Cheffresh concept is based on the purity ㄰ 㤵 㜵

both complement each other in terms of skills, he is in charge of administration and the business side of the company and my prime responsibility is the formulations and how the products look and feel.

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APJ 33


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APJ 7: Can you mention some special ingredients that are incorporated into your formulations? Grant: We use watercress extract, which we produce ourselves, as well as saffron

extract, lemongrass and pepitas, green tea, green apple, cucumber, rosemary and lime, just to name a few. We also use several native Australia ingredients such as Lilli Pilli, Kakadu plum as well as some great nutritious oils like virgin olive oil, avocado oil, carrot seed oil, pumpkin-seed oil and macadamia nut oil. Our formulations also include antioxidants and vitamins such as Coenzyme Q10.

APJ 8. How many products have you produced and can you share with us a little about your professional use products and your retail range? Grant: We have produced 20 products to give consumers variety, but not overwhelm

them with too many products. We begin with a range called the Face Diet. This consists of Kakadu Plum & Lilli Pilli Face Cleanser a fragrance-free product that is made from extracts of native Australian bush foods. Followed by Watercress & Green Apple Spritzer Toner with fresh watercress to restore the pH of the skin. Next on the menu is Pumpkin & Carrot Seed Face Salad, which has been formulated as an everyday face serum to feed the skin with all the vitamins and nutrients it needs. To accompany the Face Diet there are two moisturisers, Day Time Café Latte, which is a light, face-moisturising cream with roasted coffee oil to awaken and re-hydrate the skin. To finish the daily skin routine there is Night Time Recipe, a rich, active night cream formulated to apply before bedtime, packed with rice protein, passionfruit oil, fig extract and marine collagen to restore and replenish the skin while you sleep. All of the products in the Face Diet have been designed to work together as a total skincare program. Our prices range from $8 for our Lemongrass Lip balm to $120 for our Q10 and Saffron Boost Face Serum (recommended retail price). As much as possible we use organic ingredients. As a preservative we use phenoxyethanol, which is a sage derivative. To further protect against contamination we use airtight pumps as preferred containers wherever possible. Our creams and serums have a shelf life of 6-8 months, shower gels two years, and our facemasks 18 months to two years. We have decided not to require a large opening order so that we don't restrict salons. However, salons need to order six per batch. Cheffresh Skincare is hand-made in small batches to ensure freshness. Repeat orders are very consistent, as clients recognise Cheffresh as a quality skincare brand and love our high-grade essential oils and how they make them feel. For the benefit of salons and spa we now provide large quantities at cost effective prices for salon and spa professional use. Many of our masks will be broken down to three to four divisions - dry herbs, carrier gels, mineral clay powders and active ingredients including essential oils. This will give the product greater shelf life, eliminate the need for preservatives and allow the therapist to customise the mask to suit the individual client's needs at the time of the treatment.

CONCLUSION ㄰ 㤵 㜵

I don't know about you, but after our conversation I am planning to put in an order. At the expo I was given a sample of the Thai Spiced Lip Balm. Bursting with a clean lemongrass aroma and flavour, I can't seem to get enough of it and I am not a lip balm kind of girl. After my interview with Grant, going through some of these products has made me curious to experience more. Mmmm! Green Papaya & Pineapple Detox Mask sounds nice.

If you would like further information phone Cheffresh on 1800 669 980 or 02 9550 1277 or visit www.cheffreshskincare.com

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special treatments ㄰

live birth. Some couples suffering infertility problems can be successfully treated with medical or surgical techniques, or lifestyle changes, however, many couples undergo treatment for many years without success. You may think that this is an uncommon occurrence, but did you know that statistics reveal that one in six couples in Australia suffer from infertility?

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INFERTILITY - A GLOBAL PHENOMENON

Infertility is affecting millions of couples around the world. China has an infertility rate of 15% to 20%, with approximately 10 million infertile couples. India has an infertility rate of 15%, with an estimated 14 million infertile couples. Brazil has an estimated 16 million infertile couples. Russia has a 13% infertility rate, 18 million infertile couples and a decreasing populate rate of 7%. In Canada there is a 17% infertility rate, with Pakistan having the highest infertility rate in the world (29%) and Australia has an infertility rate of 17%, with just under 3.8 million couples suffering from infertility.

TREATMENTS FOR INFERTILITY There are many types of infertility treatments, however, the two most common are Artificial Insemination and IVF. Artificial Insemination is the starting point for most fertility specialists as it is generally successful in treating mild infertility or problems with the seminal fluid not connecting with the egg. The woman may be advised to take fertility drugs, hormone tablets or some other suitable medication to enhance fertility, however, this is not always recommended. The treatment by Tess Walls procedure is similar to a Pap smear, The semen of the partner is washed As we grow our knowledge and skills in the ever-expanding and passed through a fine catheter wellness modalities, successful aesthetic and spa therapists are into the woman's cervix or uterus. This procedure is performed in the identifying new ways that their services can be of benefit to treatment rooms of a fertility consumers. In this article Tess Walls has identified the growing specialist with no surgery or problem of infertility and shares with us some of her successful anaesthetic needed. Generally, a patient will undergo at least three strategies that have assisted clients who are undergoing fertility cycles of artificial insemination treatments. before they start treatment of IVF.

Fertility Treatments and the Role of the Aesthetic Therapist

One way for us to grow our practices is to consider treatments and services we can offer that are outside of the generic domain. Working extensively with clients undergoing fertility treatment and being surrounded by many friends suffering from infertility, I have come to understand the impact that fertility treatments have on a client's skin, body and emotional wellbeing. I have also identified treatments and packages that can be of great benefit to them, which I would like to share with you. I trust this information will enable you to offer valuable support to them through these trying times. ㄰ 㤵 㜵

Before offering these services we need to gain a better understanding of this client and their needs. It is therefore important that we become familiar with what is involved and what these individuals have to go through when undertaking a fertility treatment program. Below is a brief background of what is involved.

WHAT IS INFERTILITY? Infertility is the inability of a couple to achieve conception after a year of unprotected intercourse, or the inability to carry pregnancies to a

IVF In vitro fertilisation (IVF), which literally means "fertilisation in glass", is a treatment for infertility that has failed to respond to other medical and surgical interventions. The world's first IVF baby, Louise Brown, was born in 1978 in England. Since then, approximately 1,000,000 babies have been born as a result of IVF. The IVF treatment cycle generally follows the following stages:

1.

Pre-treatment tests and preparation: The cycle before IVF treatment is scheduled the patient may be put on birth-control pills. This may seem backward, aren't they trying to get pregnant? Actually, using birth-control pills before a treatment cycle has been shown to decrease the risk of ovarian hyperstimulation syndrome and ovarian cysts and may even improve the odds of success. 2. Preparation of ovaries and uterus: This is achieved by intranasal spray such as Synarel. This is a hormone contained in a nasal spray, which suppresses the release of Follicle Stimulating Hormone (FSH) and Luteinizing Hormone (LH) from the pituitary

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APJ 36


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gland. This prevents spontaneous ovulation (ie release of the ripe eggs from the ovary) before ovum pick-up (also known as egg-pick up). Some side-effects reported are irritation within the nose, headaches and mood changes. 3. Follicle growth treatment: This is achieved through stimulation by injection with medication such as Puregon. This is an injectable preparation of a natural gonadotrophin hormone called Follicle Stimulating Hormone (FSH). Puregon is used to stimulate the development of ovarian follicles from which eggs are recovered at ovum pick-up. The number of follicles that develop depend on the individual woman's response to the drug. Puregon is self-administered subcutaneously through a daily injection for approximately 9-13 days. Side-effects are usually mild and cease once therapy has stopped. Most common side-effects include slight abdominal bloating, mood swings, mild abdominal discomfort, breast tenderness, bruising and irritation at the injection site (usually stomach). The most severe sideeffect, ovarian hyper-stimulation syndrome (OHSS), is a potentially dangerous condition if not managed appropriately. 4. Ultrasound scans: Internal ultrasound scans will determine how many follicles the patient has. Normally the follicles contain eggs, so this gives both the patient and doctor an idea of how many eggs they may collect during egg "pick up". 5. Egg "pick-up" (collection): This is a surgical procedure that takes place under general anaesthetic in a hospital. This is a very stressful time as sometimes the client can show 10-15 follicles during their ultrasound scans. However, some of the follicles may be empty so the doctor may only be able to collect as little as eight. I have even had clients that woke up from the general anaesthetic to be confronted with the news that zero eggs had been collected and therefore the IVF cycle had to be cancelled. 6. Insemination treatment of eggs with sperm: The eggs that have been collected by the doctor are taken to the lab. The lab technician then places the eggs and the sperm together in a dish and this is where the stressful waiting begins for the patient and partner. IVF is all about the numbers, so the more eggs that are collected during egg pick-up the more chance the patient has of transferring an embryo, or in some cases, freezing embryos for future cycles. 7. Assessment of fertilisation of the eggs and sperm: The eggs and sperm are left to "play" in the dish for 24-hours, so the following day the patient will be updated about the progress of fertilisation. The patient is then updated daily until the embryos reach the stage of blastocyst (five-days-old embryo). Most fertility clinics recommend waiting until the embryo is five-days old before freezing or transfer, to increase the success rates. Again the stress continues for the patient and partner, as it is very rare that all eggs that have been collected become embryos, sometimes it is less then 25% that make it to a five-day embryo. After the five days the strongest embryo is chosen for transfer and the balance are frozen for future cycles. 8. Embryo transfer to the uterus: This is similar to a Pap smear. It is a very exciting time for both patient and partner as this is where the hope that they may have a baby begins, but they have to just treat themselves as pregnant for two weeks before they will know for sure. 9. Pregnancy test (blood test): After two weeks the patient has to undergo a blood test to determine if they are pregnant. Unfortunately for many patients this ends in devastation if the news that they have spent thousands of dollars and invested countless emotional hours in this IVF cycle has only resulted in learning that they are not pregnant.

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10. If unsuccessful the cycle is repeated the following month: If they have embryos left over the cycle would be classified ㈵

as a frozen cycle. If they do not then it would be called a fully stimulated cycle and all of the steps above would need to be repeated (including another general anaesthetic).


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The biggest impact of this process on the woman is stress. As you can see from the many steps involved it is an emotional "rollercoaster" that can also be very isolating. I have spoken to some clients who have told me that they have not disclosed to their family or friends that they are undergoing fertility treatment. One client who had twins using IVF said that if her mother ever found out that her babies were IVF she would disown her. The hormone treatment and the overall stress of IVF will affect clients in different ways, however, as a general rule the clients will feel emotional, lethargic, their skin will be breaking out and they may be retaining fluid and experiencing excessive cellulite.

WAYS OF HELPING AN IVF CLIENT

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!

THE IMPACT ON THE CLIENT

I would recommend creating specific treatments and packages for IVF clients. IVF treatments can be very consuming and draining, so a "Time out for You" package could be one idea. Recommended treatments and packages could include: ! Acupuncture: Working in conjunction with an acupuncturist is highy beneficial as there is strong research confirming that regular acupuncture can increase IVF success rates. ! Manual Lymphatic Drainage: MLD is highly beneficial to increase lymphatic flow and reduce fluid retention. ! Relaxation massages: Soothing relaxation massages using aromatherapy therapeutic grade oils such as chamomile, neroli, rose, geranium and melissa are of great help in relieving stressed clients. Specifically for infertility bergamot has shown to be of benefit so it is also a good one to include in the mix. ! Warm body wraps: Enriched with ingredients like Coffee Extract and Yerba Mate and other anti-cellulite ingredients to reduce toxin build up, stimulate fat elimination and improve skin tone and elasticity. ! Skin Management Program for the face: Due to the stress and hormonal activity in the body and the impact of anaesthetics, the skin can suffer extensively. Manifestation such as dehydration, breakouts and fluid retention are quite common. You will need to first address the issue of dehydration through appropriate protocols, including serum infusion containing hyalurinic acid . Azulene, Allantoin, Gotu Kola, Aloe Vera, Rose hip oil and Centella Asiatica are all excellent choices. You could also consider the healing and rebalancing benefits of recovery serums that include Beta Fructan, Aminoguanidine and Beta Glucosamine. The ingredients will re-balance and restore the skin's pH levels, minimise the impact of stress and restore the skin's hydration levels. The skin, and indeed the client, would also greatly benefit from the introduction of LED light to improve energy levels, stimulate collagen and soothe and calm the client.

!

Nutritional recommendations and diet: A daily dose of 1000 mls of Omega 3 fish oil and a diet rich in antioxidants as well as the use of fibre such as flaxseed and psylium husk are highly recommended. A complete B group vitamin as well as vitamin C as these will support the nervous system. For the male partner I would recommend Selenium and Zinc, as both of these increase success rates in male infertility. ! Music therapy: Do not underestim ate t he benefit of incorporating soothing music to assist with the relaxation and uplifting process. There are several studies that confirm the effective role that music can play in soothing the nervous system and restoring homoestatic equilibium. Detox patches: For homecare I recommend detox patches to reduce toxin build up. I would also recommend dry body brushing every morning, a seaweed bath weekly at home (a minimum of 70mls of pure seaweed extract introduced into a warm bath and soaking for 20-minutes to re-mineralise the body and assist in relieving fluid retention). You can also incorporate a relaxing essential oil blend, including lavender, geranium, chamomile and bergamot.

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MARKETING Once you have your packages finalised a good suggestion would be to approach fertility clinics and ask if you could put flyers promoting your IVF Support Packages on their front counters or in their IVF patient intro packs. You could also offer an introductory gift voucher, which gives the clients 20% off their first treatment, or ask the clinic if you could organise a morning tea or a drinks evening to introduce the clients to the treatment packages that you would like to offer IVF patients.

CONTRA-INDICATIONS After fertilisation the client must be treated like they are pregnant, so I would avoid all therapies not suitable for pregnancy including, but not limited to, essential oils and all heat-induced treatments, including hydrotherapy baths. By understanding IVF and creating packages within your business to address both internal and external factors you are providing your client with personalised therapy and servicing them with a total wellness anti-stress program with multiple benefits and great value. I believe that the wellness sector is growing at a rapid rate and with millions of Australian couples undergoing infertility treatment - they are searching for suggestions that may help them increase their success rates and make them feel emotionally stronger to assist them through these challenging times. ㄰

Tess Walls is a qualified Beauty Therapist, Trainer and Director of ISPA Group and the Australian Distributor of the skincare brand Germaine de Capuccini. She has 17 years’ experience in the spa and beauty industry in Australia and has a passion for helping others build their business step-bystep. Tess has also undertaken studies on the psychology of sales and loves imparting her knowledge to others. She works extensively within the aesthetic and spa industry teaching therapists how to offer exceptional client services to their clients. Tess is no stranger to success, owning her own salon and managed spas in exclusive international resorts, including the Hyatt Regency Spa, Grand Cayman Island, Caribbean. If you believe that Tess can help you grow your business phone 1300 432 100 or mobile 0424 419 876.

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APJ 38


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industry report ㄰

Beauty & Wellness – An industry in Transition by Tina Viney There is nothing like a tradeshow to experience the tempo and pulse of an industry and to identify changes and emerging trends. Exhibiting at the recent International Beauty and Spa Expo held in Sydney in September allowed APAN as an industry organisation to speak to many supply and distribution companies, as well as a wide cross section of industry personnel, including salons and spas. It was enlightening to gain a more personalised viewpoint as many shared their feelings and concerns, allowing us to gain further valuable information to add to our existing research on the status of the industry.

Polarity - The distinction of affirmative and negative was quite apparent as many were disheartened with the economy and chose to downscale. Meanwhile, others were grasping the opportunity to step up a gear and reach for higher goals. We saw equal amounts of pessimism and optimism, but there was one common thread however that ran through all with whom we spoke to change imminent and standing still is no longer an option.

GROWTH AREAS In terms of commodity trends there were two growth areas that were noteworthy wellness and grooming. ㄰ 㤵 㜵

As consumers experience financial hardship there is greater scrutiny on spending. This was also evident within the industry as businesses were on a much tighter budget than previous years. However, consumers still want to feel good and are constantly seeking ways of investing in smaller indulgences they can afford. We saw a boom in grooming items such as eyelash enhancing products and extensions, which are now becoming staple items as much as eyelash tinting. People still need to feel good and these services are instant morale boosters, which is what consumers are looking for. They may not afford Botox, but why not go for bigger lashes to give the face a lift!

To further demonstrate this point with activities outside our industry statistics confirm that coffee shop franchises are on the increase as are novelty jewellery shops, which are also booming. At the Gold Coast Business awards this year, the recently established The British Lolly Shop picked up the Emerging Business Award. Trivial commodity you might say, but The British Lolly Shop has successfully captured a growing market of sweet tooths who are seeking a pick-me-up that is affordable. Who would have thought that in the middle of difficult economic times a lolly shop would thrive? Going back to the expo, make-up had a strong presence. There were specialty mascaras with lash enhancing ingredients and a variety of new skin-friendly make-up releases such as the new DMK make-up range. Mineral makeup continues to gain great support with new brands being launched. The ever-popular Jane Iredale featured their trendy new spring look achievable through a collection of fresh, new, clear colours. Natural Compatibles showcased their new revamped image and product range, which drew crowds creating quite a buzz. There was a strong trend towards all things organic including several unusual wellness products. The newly launched Italian opulent salon brand Bioline Jatò exhibited for the first time at the Expo. They launched their Diamond Dust Body Treatment - dust from the precious stone is mixed with natural botanicals to create the ultimate in salon luxury. Skin rejuvenation wasn't confined to in-salon treatments only. UK based brand Clarisonic show cased their sonic-wave cleansing tool for the first time in Australia. Using sonic technology, the nifty handheld cleansing brush claims to cleanse so effectively that products are more easily absorbed after use.

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APJ 40


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Salon owners were searching for new ways to promote health and wellbeing. Looking at the bigger picture was Sherry Strong, food philosopher and nutritional specialist, who offered seminar goers an insight into her observations about conventional versus organically produced food and how this can impact on health and beauty. Bioelements, the popular customised skincare range were inundated with enquiries as they launched their new Pure Inventions nutritional anti-oxidant concentrated in liquid form for a refreshing drink that addressed numerous concerns from immunity boost, energy enhancing to slimming support. Vitamin C Capsules inserted in your shower was another head spinner launched by Vitamin Shower promising to neutralise the effects of chlorine in tap water, while balancing pH of the water and helping soften skin and hair. Platinum visitors were invited to relax and unwind in the Middle Eastern themed tearoom, a sanctuary within the Expo. Subtle E n e r g i e s , p i o n e e r s i n Ay u r v e d a Aromatherapy, were on hand to educate about their use of ancient science in modern day spa space. The delicately fragranced oil filled the Concept Spa and passer-by were handed lime oil infused tissues to revive the senses. Taking time out to meander through the various displays at the expo filled many with new hope for the future as they re-evaluated their direction and options available to them.

SOUL SEARCHING FOR THE FUTURE I recently read a book entitled "When the game is over it all goes back in the Box" by John Ortberg. Ortberg shares with his readers a special relationship he had with his grandmother whom he loved dearly, but she always beat him at Monopoly. It's a philosophical book about our own mortality and the importance of living our life with purpose and learning how to live with self-respect.

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Ortberg was not happy that his grandmother never let him win at the game of Monopoly and says "I did not like this quality in her at the time, but I understand better now. My grandmother was trying to teach me one of the greatest challenges in life. In the short run, it seems as though you can build up self-esteem in a child by letting the child win. But in the long run, true esteem comes only from knowing we can actually handle reality, which means both wins and losses. Thus it is important for a child at times to lose something.

Losing well is an art that requires all the grace I can muster. It means having the humility to face reality full in the face with no excuses, but the confidence not to allow losing to define my identity. It means no excuses, no blaming, no selfpity, but no self-condemnation either. It means acquiring the discernment to know when to quit and when to persevere. It means learning to let go of an outcome I cannot change, but to hold on to the will to live fully and well."

The message of these statements reflected a great deal what I observed, as some come to the realisation that they neither had the heart to fight on nor the will to invest in what was needed to stay at the top of the game in their business. It took courage to come to this conclusion and downsize their business, but they had a peace about it. I got the opportunity to reassure them that as long as this was their conviction it was the right decision for them. White knuckling and persisting with a game that is lost is pointless. At the end of the day only you know what is best for you.

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For those who wanted to fight on, we were thrilled to put them in touch with the many resources to support their growth that APAN has developed for their members. The baton must be handed on to those who still want to be in the race and it also gives us as much joy to support such individuals who are moving towards higher achievements. One such achiever is Lesley Morgan-Wesson from Lady at Bay in Neutral Bay in Sydney who recently joined as an APAN member. Lesley was also the lucky winner of the $20,000 Business Stimulus Package provided by APAN as part of our membership drive campaign and supported by over 10 credible companies who were happy in giving back to the industry and had faith in APAN's objectives and commitment to the industry. Despite the difficult economic times Lesley remains very committed in providing her clients with quality services in skin rejuvenation and a variety of anti-ageing and wellness services. She has stepped up her treatments to include new innovations through advanced technologies and also address internal concerns that may be compromising the external treatment objectives. She achieves this through her highly qualified staff and through collaborative arrangements with medical and allied health professionals who work with her to achieve the high level of results that is her trademark. ㄰

In recent times Lesley has decided to add two new staff members to her team bringing her current seven staff to nine. This was a bold move and the $20,000 prize of products and services could not have come at a more opportune time to allow her to successfully transition to the next level.

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APAN is delighted that we have been instrumental in giving this support to Lesley, while joining forces with the various companies that will be

APJ 41


Losing well is an art that requires all the grace I can muster. It means having the humility to face reality full in the face with no excuses, but the confidence not to allow losing to define my identity. It means no excuses, no blaming, no self-pity, but no self-condemnation either. It means acquiring the discernment to know when to quit and when to persevere. It means learning to let go of an outcome I cannot change, but to hold on to the will to live fully and well.”

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contributing to her success. These are: 1 to 1 Beauty Therapy Training: staff auditing to the value of $5000 CSHE Australia Pty Ltd Equipment: to the value of $3000 Indio Cosmeceuticals: Products to the value of $3000 Nelson Beauty Business Business: Coaching package valued at $2,500 Advanced Aesthetics: Skin Analysis Training valued at $2500 Bio-Concepts Nutraceutical products valued at $2000 Enhance by Natural Compatibles: Makeup up and training to the value of $1500 Vorei Design: Uniforms to the value of $1000 4CP Promotional products and graphic design: valued at $660 APAN: Business Standards pack valued at $650.

! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! !

It is always inspiring to support achievers and to champion their cause. As a member-based organisation APAN has a very strong focus on member benefits in real and tangible ways. As you will see in our Business In Brief pages, we are constantly adding new services that will benefit our members. We aim to support others by constantly sourcing new and better ways of providing value for money to our members and to put before them the right tools that will help them reach their goals and objectives. It is also however, as much about the human element of inspiration, encouragement and motivation as it is about products and services. Our chief objective is to provide tangible benefits through a dynamic network and industry standards body that wants to make a difference to the success of the aesthetics industry through its contribution. As we continue to grow we promise the industry credibility and reliability and staying true to our word to deliver what we promise. If you are not already a member, we encourage you to consider joining our community of practices. By way of giving something back to you we are giving you a $50 David Jones Gift Card if you join as a member of APAN by the 15th January as well as a DEFCOM Discount Card. On the back of our journal cover sheet you will find an application form. Just complete it and return it or fax it back to us and we will promptly send you your kit and gift voucher. For further details please check our ad in this journal or phone 07 5593 0360. You can also down-load further membership forms from our website www.apanetwork.com

APJ 42


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sun risks ㄰

common vegetable oils seem to be the most carcinogenic, while other fats, mainly Omega-3 such as those contained in fish, flax, walnut and even olive oil, appear to inhibit the formation of skin cancers.

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In this article we will look at other contributing factors of insufficient sun exposure and its relevance to melanoma as well as some consideration about suncreens and their correct use. Much of the information presented in this article may appear controversial and subject to debate, however, it is based on new research as presented in Dr Marc Sorenson's book Solar Power for Optimal Health that we may not be familiar with. The objective is to offer some food for thought as to how you can achieve a better balance between sun protection and still not hinder the benefits of sun exposure that research suggests we should be advocating. Additionally, research now suggests that preventing melanoma is not as simple as just using a sunscreen or avoiding the sun, there are certain lifestyle changes that also play an important role that we need to be made aware of if we are to offer our clients up-to-date advice.

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MELANOMA AND THE ROLE OF SUNLIGHT In the February 2005 issue of the Journal of the National Cancer Institute some incredible results of two research studies were reported. One study by Dr Marianne Berwick and her colleagues showed a considerable increased survival rate for melanoma patients who had a history of the greatest exposure to sunlight.? The other showed exactly the same results with patients who had contracted non-Hodgkin's lymphoma.2 The research caused some head scratching among the anti-sun group and surprisingly received coverage in the popular press. There was already research indicating that sunlight and vitamin D were protective against many major cancers, such as prostate cancer, breast cancer and colon cancer. Why then shouldn't sunlight protect against death from melanoma and lymphoma? Nevertheless, burning is dangerous and should be avoided. In fact, sunburn is an indication that sun exposure has not been done correctly. On the other hand with more prudent sunning, the same quantity of sunlight exposure could have been achieved without sunburning. Burning is definitely a causative factor for melanoma. A review of all published literature on sunlight and melanoma, up until 1997, showed that burning in childhood, adolescence or adulthood increases the incidence of melanoma by 170%-195%.3 However, the same review showed that regular sunlight exposure decreases the risk of melanoma by 14%. Obviously, a key to avoiding melanoma is to avoid sunburning. But isn't it interesting that sun exposure that may cause burns is also protective against death from melanoma once the melanoma occurs?2 The message then is to receive plenty of sunlight exposure while at the same time avoiding sunburn. We must also realise that burning is only one of many factors that may lead to melanoma. Further studies suggest that obtaining the same quantity of sunlight exposure without burning might have prevented the melanomas that occurred due to burning, while still increasing the survival rate of those who had contracted melanoma due to reasons other than burning. Yet, lifetime sun exposure was associated with a reduced rate risk of melanoma.4

RISING TEMPERATURES

Sun Benefits and Sun Protection Getting the Balance Right by Tina Viney As we are approaching summer the issue of sun protection is very much part of our advice to our clients. While excessive sun does age the skin, new research is revealing that because of our obsession to over-protect ourselves against sun exposure (be it through sunscreens or avoiding the sun altogether)it has led to a widespread deficiency of vitamin D.

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Vitamin D is important because it supports the body's immunity against disease. It contributes towards joint and bone health and is essential for the absorption of calcium. Even though vitamin D is one of the only vitamins produced naturally by the body, in order for the body to produce vitamin D, it has to be exposed to an adequate amount of sunlight. Generally, an hour per week is sufficient. There are now numerous research papers that support the importance of this vitamin and this poses a problem to skin therapist and how they deliver advice on sun protection. In my previous article Sun, Fats and Skin Cancer published in volume 4 of APJ we covered the contributing facts to diet and the types of fat and their relevance to skin cancer. It presented that Omega-6 fats such as corn oil and most other

INDOOR WORKERS MORE AT RISK Perhaps the results of these studies should not have been so unexpected. Other research had already shown that melanomas occurred more frequently on areas of the skin that had seldom been exposed to sunlight, and that those who worked almost exclusively indoors were more likely to develop melanoma than those who worked both indoors and outdoors. 5 In fact, those who work indoors

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APJ 44


had 50% more melanomas than those who worked both indoors and outdoors.

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This may explain why particularly in Victoria where sunlight throughout the year is less than other States sun beds have possibly contributed to skin cancers in certain individuals. What these studies point to is that although sun exposure has health benefits, we need to be cautious how we deliver the doses if we are to minimise any risks of skin cancer.

When assessing the incidents of melanoma at different anatomical sites, this same research indicated that rates of melanoma were higher on the trunk (seldom exposed to sunlight) than on the head and arms (commonly exposed to sunlight). Later studies corroborated this information. Children who regularly play outdoors are less likely to develop melanoma,6 as are adults who work regularly outdoors.7 Melanomas in women occur primarily on the upper legs, and in men melanomas occur more frequently on the back areas that are not exposed to sunlight nearly as often as are the face, hands and arms.8 In people with black skin, melanomas are more common on the soles of the feet and on the lower legs, where exposure to sunlight is almost nil.9

It is quite clear that while burning may be one of several factors that lead to melanoma, regular sunlight exposure certainly does not lead to melanoma; sunlight without burning is protective against melanoma! In fact, regular sunlight exposure improves survival of melanoma patients the study showed.

THE ROLE OF DIET A recent study of the correlation between dietary habits and melanoma showed that persons with the lowest intake of alpha-carotine, betacarotene, cryptoxanthin, lutein and lycopene (all carotenoid antioxdiants) had a 50% increased risk of melanoma. Also those who consumed the most alcohol had a 65% increased risk.12 Another study indicated a 2.5 times increased risk of melanoma among those who consumed two or more alcohol drinks per day.29 Both melanoma and non melanoma skin cancers are to a great extent preventable by sensible lifestyle choices. It has also been advocated that harmful changes in lifestyles over the past 100 years has been responsible for the increase in skin cancers, as well as many other cancers. These changes include a lack of green vegetables and colourful fruit consumption, increased exposure to chemicals, the proliferation of prescription drug use, the obesity epidemic, consumption of fast foods, and sedentary living. More sunlight exposure is certainly not one of those deleterious lifestyle changes, since sunlight exposure has decreased.

THE LIMITATION OF SUNSCREEN

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It flies in the face of common sense to suggest that the change from an outdoor, agrarian society to an indoor, office-worker society would increase exposure to sunlight and thereby give rise to the spectacular increase in skin cancer. As we become more urbanised and sunscreen use increases, melanoma rates skyrocket. Between 1973 and 1999, the rate of melanoma increased from 7.4 to 20.1 per 100,000 persons 13 a near tripling. In America figures released from the American Cancer Society in 2001 the latest year that statistics were available saw the number of cases of melanoma per 100,000 had climbed to about 22.4.

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Another problem that was identified was the impact of sunscreens. Researchers tested high-strength sunsceens against free radical damage and found little protection.15 They stated the following: "A free-radical protection factor calculated on the basis of these results was only 2 at the recommended application level, which contracts strongly with the erythema-based sun protection factors (mainly indicative of ultraviolet B protection) quoted by the manufacturers

APJ 45


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(20+). The disparity between these protection factors suggests that prolonged sunbathing (encouraged by use of these creams) could increase exposure to ultraviolet A and consequently the risk of ultraviolet-A-related skin damage." In fact the manufacturers claimed a free-radical protection factor that was 10 times larger than their product produced. The other concern is that sunscreens may protect only the outer layers of skin from burning, while leaving the inner layer where melanoma is initiated more vulnerable to damage15. Often the sunscreen will protect against the burn factor so it may make sunbathers feel safer to stay in the sun longer. Meanwhile, damage is happening in the deeper layers. There is little doubt that sunscreens have been promoted by governments, the medical profession and of the aesthetician. Unfortunately, the rate of melanoma has increased in lockstep with the increase of sunscreen use16, and there is a possibility that the oestrogenic compounds and other chemicals found in sunscreen may actually be carcinogenic. In Queensland, which enjoys sun all year round, the use of sunscreen has been vigorously promoted. However, Queensland now has the highest rate of melanoma in the world.16 It has been noted that taking holidays in sunny regions correlates to increased melanoma incidence. 34 Also accessibility to air travel correlates strongly with the increased incidents of melanoma, presumably due to taking sunny holidays that lead to sunburn.35 This has been attributed to the fact that although plenty of sunscreen has been dutifully applied preventing burning, sun damage is still continuing to target the deeper layers.

THE OPTIONS We are told that the lifetime risk of developing melanoma in 1935 was 1 in 1500 people, compared to 1 in 75 in 2000. This risk unfortunately is continuing to rise by 5% to 7% per year.30 It is likely that as people continue to use sunscreens, while more and more working and staying indoors and avoiding the sun that melanoma will continue to rise. Some suggest we need to avoid the sun even more. If avoiding the sun is the answer, then why are melanoma incidents on the rise as we move indoors? What about the importance of vitamin D to our health and the role of the sun helping our body process it? It is obvious from extensive research that those who receive the greatest sunlight exposure experience profoundly lower rates of the major internal cancers, multiple sclerosis and heart attacks. As a responsible professional and in light of new research you should be promoting responsible sunlight exposure as a means of optimising health and protection against melanoma. Of course protective measures still need to be considered, but these are now much broader then once believed (see recommendations in our Safety Measure). REFERENCE: Solar Power for Optimal Health by Dr Marc Sorenson

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1. Giovanucci. E. The epidermiology of vitam D and coloretal cancer 2. Mathiasen, I. et al. Apoptosis induced by vitamin D compounds in breast cancer. 3. Diaz,G. et al. Apoptosis is induced by the active metabolite of vitamin D, and its prevention and it analogue EB1089 4. Swamy, N et al, Inhibition of proliferation and induction of apoptosis 5. Miller, E. et al, Calcium, vitamin D and apoptosis in the rectal epithelium 8. Tokar E, et al. Chemoprevention of prostate cancer by cholecalciferol (vitamin D) 12. Chen T. et al. The in vitro evaluation of 25-hydroxyvitamin D3 and 20-nor-2alpha, 25-dihydroxyvitamin D2 as therapeutic agents for prostrate cancer. 13. Shokravi, M. et al. Vitamin D inhibits angiogenmesis in transgenic murine retinoblastomaa. 14. Mantell, D. et al. 2,25-dihydroxyvitamin D3, inhibits angeogenesis in vitro and in vivo circulation 15. Nakagawa. K. et al. 22-Oxa-1 (alpha), 25-dihydroxyvitamin D3, inhibits angeogenesis in lung cancer. 16. Bao, B. et al. alpha), 25-dihydroxyvitamin D3, inhibits prostrate cancer cell invasion via modulation of selective proteases. (further reference available on request).

SAFETY MEASURES FOR SUN EXPOSURE

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1. Never burn and never expose yourself until the skin reddens. Cover up and seek shade immediately at the first signs of pinkness. 2. Start your sunning program with just a few minutes and gradually work up to more time as your skin adjust to the UV. Remember that on a cool spring day you may burn before you feel uncomfortable.

3. Dark-skinned people also need to be careful if they have not been in the sunlight for an extended period of time. All people should gradually increase sunlight exposure until their body has adjusted to it, and take protective measures to prevent injury. Dark skinned people will need much more sunlight to produce the same amount of vitamin D. 4. When using sunscreen, be careful not to overexpose the skin to long periods in the sun, even if the skin feels comfortable. UVA damage can not only pre-maturely age the skin, but also contribute to melanoma even if there is no redness on the surface of the skin. 5. It is important to consider diet low in fat particularly processed polyunsaturated fatty acids. It is advisable to consume large quantities of green vegetables as well as coloured fruit to increase carotenoid antioxidants in the skin. Tomatoes are a great source of lycopene, which has been shown to protect the skin against skin cancer. A good Fish Oil or Cod Liver Oil supplement is also beneficial. 6. Vitamin C and E in a combination in a serum as a topical product has also been shown to protect the skin form sun damage. 7. Avoid mid-day sun exposure or keep them to a minimum if you don't have a choice keep it to no more than 10-30 minutes. ㄰

8. Protect hair with a hat and eyes with UV protective glasses.

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9. Keep the body well hydrated with water. 10. Once away from the sun spritz the face with appropriate skin topic and apply moisturiser.

APJ 46


anti-ageing

ANTI-AGEING MEDICINE AND ORTHODONTIC APPLIANCE THERAPY TREATMENT An Interdisciplinary Approach By Dr. Derek Mahony (Specialist Orthodontist, Sydney) and Dr. Theodore Belfor (General Dentist, New York) Ageing of the face it would appear is not just about skin and muscle deterioration and atrophy, other factors have now been identified that can accelerate the appearance of ageing of the face. The misalignment of teeth can also be a critical factor that can contribute to the appearance of facial ageing. At the 3rd AustralAsian Academy of Anti-Ageing Medical conference held in Melbourne in August this year Dr Derek Mahony presented a lecture Orthodontic Appliance Therapy: A Multi-disciplinary Approach to anti-Ageing Medicine in which he addressed this issue and new therapeutic applications to address these concerns. Dr. Derek Mahony is a Sydney-based Specialist Orthodontist who has spoken to thousands of practitioners about the benefits of interceptive orthodontic treatment. Early in his career Dr Mahony learnt from leading clinicians the dramatic effect functional appliance therapy can afford patients in orthodontic treatment. He has been combining the fixed and functional appliance approach ever since. Dr Mahony approaches his orthodontic diagnosis from a "facial profile" point of view. He sets his treatment goals to create not just straight teeth, but beautiful faces and healthy temporomandibular joints. In this paper Dr Derek Mahony presents how new techniques can offer solutions and positive changes to both the appearance and health of a patient.

INTRODUCTION Anti-ageing is a branch of medicine focused on how to prevent, slow or reverse the effects of ageing thus helping people to live longer and healthier lives. Recently, however, more evidence-based medicine has led to anti-ageing becoming a multi-billion-dollar industry with over $12 billion spent in the USA alone. The recent medical literature and evidenced-based medicine shows that as we age, there seems to be loss of fat volume in some areas of the face, as well as a change in the morphology of the facial skeleton. Facial soft-tissue augmentation, by injection, has become increasingly popular as a minimally invasive option for patients seeking cosmetic facial enhancement. Replacing depleted soft tissue has allowed for a more comprehensive approach to total facial rejuvenation. It has been demonstrated that orthodontic treatment, with an intra-oral orthopedic dental appliance, (The Homeoblock™) enhances facial symmetry producing soft tissue changes consistent with improved facial aesthetics.1 This appliance can be added to the treatment protocol of facial injection to create a relatively noninvasive, interdisciplinary approach to mid-face enhancement.

namely a more youthful appearance.

CASE STUDY A healthy woman, in her mid 60s, presented for treatment with a strong desire to improve her facial appearance. Her oral hygiene was good and there was no active periodontal disease. She exhibited headache symptoms and clinical examination showed a disc displacement, with reduction on her right side with a maximum jaw opening of 38 mm. Her centreline was displaced two millimetres to the right and lined up when she opened less than 10 millimetres, indicating that she had a mandibular displacement to the same side. A Homeoblock™ appliance, with a 5 mm. bite block on the right side, (to decompress her TMJ) was fabricated and delivered. When she closed on the bite block her occlusion freed up and the muscles realigned the mandible so that her centreline now lined up correctly. Her headache symptoms were relieved in three weeks and her maximum opening was improved to 42mm. The patient continued Homoeoblock™ treatment for nine months. Intra-oral and extra-oral photos were taken to monitor treatment, as well as 3D stereo photogrammetry. Extra-oral 3D digital photos were taken with a 3dMD facial capture system. A 3dMD/Kodak facial capture system and stereo photogrammetry were used to generate a clinically accurate digital model of the patient's facial surface. It uses a technique of stereo-triangulation to identify external surface features viewed from at least two cameras. This approach incorporates projecting a unique, random light pattern that is used as the foundation for triangulating the geometry in 3-D. The capture takes less than two milliseconds per frame. The data is processed creating a highly precise <0.5-mm RMS, root mean squared of the distance measured, creating a digital model of the patient that is ready for immediate clinical use. Stereo photogrammetry, for quantifying facial morphology, was introduced in the Journal of Dentistry in 1996.2 It was concluded that "stereo photogrammetry is a suitable 3D registration method for quantifying and detecting development changes in facial morphology”

ABSTRACT It is the purpose of this article to demonstrate how the placement of dermal fillers for the reduction of lines/wrinkles and depressions in the face, in conjunction with orthopaedic/orthodontic appliance therapy, can produce desirable facial soft tissue enhancement. Via a case study we can demonstrate that the volumetric changes, achieved by this combined treatment approach, can produce a desirable result,

Figure 1 Pre-treatment face and anterior, intra-oral photos (note deep dental overbite)

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Finite element analysis shows increased facial volume with a directional change of almost 4 millimeters indicated by the red to orange color.

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Figure 5A Superimposing the red after face over the blue before face we can graphically illustrate the volumetric changes that have occurred during our treatment.

There is an increase in volume in the frontal, supra-orbital, inferior orbital, zygomatic, nasal base, upper lip, naso-labial depression, marionette and pre jowl areas.

Figure 2 The Homeoblock™ appliance

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RESULTS The after treatment face appears more youthful with better defined cheekbones and a firmer jaw line. The skin appears smoother with less lines, wrinkles and depressions.

DISCUSSION

Figure 3 The pre-treatment face, and at six months and at nine months and finally, a morphometric evaluation of the change. Evaluating the patient’s face, over the nine months of Homeoblock™ treatment for her tempero-mandibular dysfunction showed a change in the morphology of the face. Morphometric analysis was performed by superimposing before and after 3D images and using finite element modelling. Thousands of triangular reference points are used to establish the change. The blue area is no change and the red, to orange areas, show an increased dimension up to 2.9 millimetres. We see an increased volume above and under the eyes, the zygomatic region, the upper lip and the marionette and the pre-jowl areas. Viewing the facial photos we see a reduction in the lines, wrinkles and depressions.

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After nine months the patient's facial changes prompted her to go forward with injections of dermal fillers. She was given 1ml of Restylane® for lip enhancement and two 1.3 cc corrections with Radiesse™ in the prejowl marionette area and along the inferior border the mandible, and the inferior and lateral borders of the zygoma. Figure 4 Figure 4 shows the morphological facial changes in the lips, zygoma and jowl area after the placement of 1ml. Restylane® and placement of 1.3 cc Radiesse™ . Note the deeper red to orange color in the areas where the injections were placed.

Figure 5 Morphometric evaluation of the final results:

Facial changes related to palatal expansion are clearly outlined in Growth and Treatment a Meeting of the Minds, J.A. McNamara Jr. 2003.3 "The maxillary complex shows a change in size (and/or mass) allied with an increase in structural complexity, in association with biological processes." "Palatal expansion presumably, switches on osteoblastic genes associated with active boney deposition and concomitant remodelling of the spatial matrix ensues." In relation to the changes around the eyes we must recall that the maxilla forms the floor of the orbit and skeletal changes may become apparent post expansion." Specifically, changes in orbital morphology may be reflected on the skin of the face as the lower eyelids become "fuller," the lateral canthus becomes more horizontal.", facial width increases, particularly at the zygomatico-maxillary sutures and the craniofacial form, putatively, not only functions better but looks more attractive." These changes have been documented in children where palatal expansion is an everyday occurrence. This paper documents the similar changes in a so called "non-growing" adult. Combining the results of palatal expansion, and the placement of dermal fillers, we see a very satisfactory improvement in facial esthetics.

REFERENCES 1.

2.

3.

Singh GD, Diaz J Busquettes-VaelloC et al. Facial changes following treatment with a removable orthodontic appliance in adults. Funct Orthod. 2004; 21:18-23 Ras F, Habets LL, van Ginkel FC, et al. Quantification of facial morphology using stereo photogrammetry: demonstration of a new concept, J Dent 1996; 24:369-374 Singh GD. On Growth and Treatment: The Spatial Matrix Hypotesis.Growth and Treatment a Meeting of the Minds, JA McNamara Jr. 2003; 41: 197-239

DR. DEREK MAHONY Email: info@derekmahony.com Website: www.fullfaceglobal.com After completing his Dental Degree at the University of Sydney, Dr Mahony moved to the UK where he completed his Masters Degree in Orthodontics at the Eastman Dental Hospital, Institute of Dental Surgery, London. Further studies led to the successful completion of a Diploma in Orthodontics at the Royal College of Surgeons, Edinburgh. Dr Mahony sees an average of 250 patients per week for the past decade and has gained vast experience which he passes on to clinicians so that they can come to appreciate the key elements of

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APJ 48


his combined treatment approach. He currently has over 3000 orthodontic patients in active treatment and has been a keynote speaker at the International Orthodontic Summit meetings, the International Association of Orthodontics meetings, and the American Association of Functional Orthodontics meetings. He is internationally known as the author of numerous articles in the United States and foreign journals and as a lecturer in Australia, New Zealand, South East Asia, Russia, the UK and the USA. Dr Mahony was awarded "Clinician of the Year" in 1999 by the American Association of Functional Orthodontics. He has also qualified as a Senior Orthodontic Instructor with the International Association of Orthodontics.

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Figure 6 Before and after facial photos

THEODORE R. BELFOR, DDS

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Dr. Theodore R. Belfor graduated from New York University College of Dentistry in 1966 and has been in private practice for 40 years. He has been published in The Journal of Cosmetic Dentistry, Aesthetic Dentistry Today, Dentistry Today, Sleep Diagnosis and Therapy, The Journal for the American Academy of Gnathologic Orthopedics, The Functional Orthodontist, International Journal for Orthodontics, Sleep Diagnosis and Therapy, Anti-Aging and Cosmetic Surgery Magazine. Dr Belfor has been lecturing, teaching and training the Homeoblock™ protocol since 2005, at USA venues in Phoenix, Arizona, Los Angeles, California, San Diego, California, Philadelphia, Pennsylvania and New York, NY and internationally in Mumbai, India and Sydney, Australia. Additionally, Dr. Belfor has lectured on the Homeoblock™ at meetings of professional organizations including: American Association for Functional Orthodontics, National Conference. (AAFO) Annual Appliance Therapy Practioners’ Association Symposium (ATPA) Conference on Dental Management of Snoring and Sleep Apnea, Dr. Edward Spiegel Excellence in Orthodontics and Dentofacial Orthopaedics (EODO), Dr. Derek Mahony International Board of Orthodontics (IBO) International Association for Orthodontics (IAO) Mid-America Orthopedic/Orthodontic Institute (MAOOI) Mini-Residency on Interdisciplinary Treatment for Orofacial Pain, Dr. Steven Olmos Pennsylvania Craniomandibular Society (PCS), Dr. Stephen Smith

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Dr. Belfor is Chairman and President of OrthoSmile, Inc. and the inventor of the Homeoblock™ orthopedic/orthodontic appliance.

APJ 49


anti-ageing nutrient ㄰ 㤵 㜵

How Glutathione helps to win the battle against free radical attack.

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Glutathione - The Master Antioxidant for health, longevity and youthful skin by Tina Viney When dealing with the issue of detoxification we need all the help we can get to support the body's health and wellbeing. Antioxidants, while highly beneficial in quenching free radicals, have an issue with dosage, as very high doses in supplementation form may be counterproductive and in fact increase free radical activity. However, research has identified some incredible properties of a protein called glutathione. Often referred to as the master antioxidant,glutathione is unique in that it is not only an antioxidant, but also the only one that regenerates itself, as well as a variety of other all-important antioxidants, including vitamins A, C, E and alpha lipoic acid. ㄰

WHAT IS GLUTATHION? 㤵 㜵

Glutathione (GSH) is a small protein containing three amino acids (cystein, glutamic acid and glycine) found and manufactured in every cell in the body. Glutathione is present in higher concentrations in the liver (detoxifier), spleen (immune defence), skin, brain, the kidneys and lungs. However, as we age, this vital nutrient decreases rapidly as much as 30% by age 50 and 60% by age 80. Glutathione is important because it plays a role in many biological

processes such as enzyme catalysis, protein synthesis, membrane transport, receptor action, cell maturation, and leukotriene synthesis.

PRIMARY ROLE OF GLUTATHIONE (GSH): More than 6% of our body's total energy may be used to synthesis and regulate glutathione levels, which is found in all animals, plants and microorganisms. The key purpose of Glutathione includes: 1. Production and protection of DNA body's blueprint 2. Production and protection of Mitochondrial DNA (cell's energy factories) 3. Production and protection of the cell's energy (ie ATP) in the electron transport chain known as the Kreb's cycle 4. Effectively detoxifying of carcinogens and heavy metals (and all other toxins). As we have seen above, using its powerful antioxidant capabilities, glutathione defends the cell, specifically the cell membrane and the mitochondria, against harmful free radicals. In addition to its role as an antioxidant, GSH also functions in immune response and in DNA repair and protection.

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APJ 50


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OTHER FUNCTIONS OF GLUTATHIONE But perhaps the most important benefit of glutathione is that it is the only non-enzyme antioxidant that does not itself become a "free radical" after it has quenched a free radical. All other antioxidants become free radicals themselves. This may explain, at least in part, the need for multiple antioxidants creating a chain of reactions to neutralise free radicals in order to protect the body. Glutathione, however, requires no such chain reaction (I trust this does not confuse you). In order to comprehend the function of glutathione as the body's master antioxiant, it is important to understand the nature of free radicals and the damage they cause. As we know a free radical is a molecule that is chemically unstable because it is missing an electron. All free radicals are extremely reactive chemically. They will seek out and acquire an electron at any cost. When they steal an electron from another molecule, that molecule is damaged and itself becomes a free radical. Free radicals are capable of damaging and thereby changing the structure of every biomolecule in the body by stealing electrons. A few examples of these are: ! Damaging the lipids (fats) in blood vessel walls, resulting in arterial hardening or stiffening, hypertension (high blood pressure) that can lead to heart attacks and strokes. ! Damage to DNA, the blueprint of the body, leading to mutations that promote ageing and cancer. ! Damage to joints and synovial cells (chondrocytes) ! Damage to proteins resulting in Advanced Glycation End (AGE), producing age stops and elastin damage in the skin (see article on Glycation page 94).

Antioxidants prevent these damages by donating electrons to free radicals. For example: ! Vitamin E has 3 extra electrons to share ! Vitamin C has 5 extra electrons to share ! However, glutathione has millions of extra electrons to share due to the fact that it regenerates itself.

OTHER FUNCTIONS OF GLUTATHIONE 㜵

To further appreciate the range of benefits that glutathione can offer the body let us review some of its other functions: ! Synthesis and maintenance of protein and amino acids and supports the body to utilise them effectively ! Activates enzymes vital for the removal of all toxic build-up in cells. Without glutathione the liver, which cleanses all the toxins you ingest and inhale , could no longer perform its functions.

Research has identified some incredible properties of a protein called glutathione that is not only an antioxidant, but also the only one that regenerates itself as well as a variety of other antioxidants including vitamins A, C, E and alpha lipoic acid. !

! ! ! !

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Glutathione is a powerful Optimise immune system. regenerator of immune cells and is considered one of the most important agents in keeping the body detoxified and healthy. It activates the immune system’s Delta Forces (first responders) to attack invaders. Regenerates a wide variety of other antioxidants Protects the delicate and critically important cell membrane from free radical attack and lipid peroxidation that leads to a rapid destruction of the cell. Safeguards metabolic processes. It is water-soluble and is concentrated mainly in the water-containing parts of the body, including the blood, and most importantly, the cells' internal fluid where most cell metabolism occurs. Essential for the optimum function of numerous enzymes and critical for cellular viability in general, but in particular in lymphatic function.

ASSOCIATION OF LOW LEVELS OF GSH WITH DISEASE Dr Howard Peiper in his book New Hope for Serious Diseases states that although glutathione was discovered in 1888 it was not until the late 1930s that researchers were able to unfold its benefits. Initially most of the research concentrated on the eye and especially on its lens. The research was very valuable, as glutathione deficiency is directly related to eye problems, specifically macular degeneration. Dr Peiper further noted that a lack of glutathione will lead to disruption of the body's ability to detoxify itself, which in turn can lead to cancer, heart disease, joint problems and serious imbalances in the immune, endocrine and nervous systems. Alzheimer's, Parkinson's and autism are all associated with mitochondrial dysfunction. It is equally not surprising that these clinical diseases, along with cardiovascular disease, hepatitis, HIV infection and diabetes, are all associated with pronounced decreases in glutathione levels.

EXERCISE, ENERGY PRODUCTION AND GLUTATHIONE The energy molecule of the cell is called ATP (Adenosine triphosphate) - it's the one we stimulate when we utilise microcurrent in our facial treatments. ATP is produced in the mitochondria (energy factory) in a complex Electron Transport Chain (ETC) pathway of five enzymatic reactions, turning nutrients and oxygen into ATP called the Kreb's cycle. While we are young, only a very small amount (1-3%) of oxygen is lost to free radical production in the ETC pathway. However, as we age the free-radical-induced injuries accumulate and mitochondrial DNA is damaged, hence it cannot divide and new ETC cannot be formed. Thus there is a progressive loss of efficiency and a progressive decrease of ATP (energy) production. There are thousands of mitochondria in every cell of the body as well as the skin and they are most prevalent in the energy-using organs of your body, the brain, heart and the liver. By quenching the extremely

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APJ 51


harmful 'hydroxyl' free radical, glutathione has just halted a literal cascade of free radicals including 'peroxynitrite'. Peroxynitrite reacts with and inactivates several of the enzymes in mitochondria, so when mitochondria have suffered enough free radical damage as to become dysfunctional, energy production is impaired and cells do not get the amount of energy they need to function correctly.

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Intense exercise requires high levels of glutathione. Increased glutathione is associated with increased phase 3 mitochondrial reactivity (increased ATP production) required for sustained physical and mental activity. Since ATP powers muscle contraction, the lack of it produces physical fatigue.

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According to Dr Keller, who has pioneered much of the research on glutathione “comparisons of the human maximum life span potential is calculated to be 122 years”. However, he also states that shortened lifespan is directly related to mitochondrial damage.

GLUTATHIONE AND THE SKIN Glutathione is a proven defender against the harmful effects of UVB radiation, which has been linked to melanoma, the breakdown of collagen, and the reddening and burning of the skin. A study was performed on the epidermis of hairless mice to assess the effects of glutathione depletion on sunburn cell formation. One group of mice was treated orally with an irreversible inhibitor called buthionine S, R-sulfoximine that depleted glutathione levels by 10-15%. The other group was not treated and maintained normal glutathione levels. Both groups were then exposed to a moderate amount of UVB radiation. The members of the treated group of glutathione inhibitors were found to contain a much higher sunburn cell count than those of the control group that had normal glutathione levels. This study shows that endogenous glutathione functions to protect skin cells against moderate levels of UVB radiation.

IN SUMMARY In essence, glutathione strengthens the body's natural defence, decreasing the risk of illness, and guarding the effects of skin and body ageing. Being a natural substance that already exists in the body, the role of supplementation should be to optimise its natural reserves of glutathione. As on-going research further substantiates the oxidant benefits of glutathione, its protection and production of mitochondrial DNA and cell energy (ATP), it is not surprising that it is fast being incorporated in anti-ageing protocols. ㄰

While glutathione is readily available for purchase there are several quality considerations that will ultimately affect its assimilation into the body. If you would like further information on what to look for when purchasing glutathione or assistance in accessing this product please contact Fariba Ghazi on 0466 090 709 or email: fariba@platinumpages.com. You can also visit www.glutathioneking.com/4life.

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SCIENTIFIC NEWS

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This section presents news and research information relating to skin and anti-ageing discoveries. ㈵

levels before dieting were more likely to reacquire the lost weight after the diet ended.”

“In light of these findings, health practitioners may wish to consider hormone testing when prescribing personalised weight-loss programs,” he said. Source: Journal of Clinical Endocrinology & Metabolism

Research Program at UNSW's National Centre in HIV Epidemiology and Clincal Research (NCHECR).

“IL28B genetic testing, prior to treatment for HCV infection, is likely to be incorporated into clinical care to identify those most likely to respond”, Dr Grebely said. "For those patients without the favourable genotype, the doctor can proceed with treatment, knowing it is better to treat early than waiting until the condition has become chronic." Source: Journal of Hepatology

APPETITE HORMONE LEVELS MAY INFLUENCE WEIGHT REGAIN Dieters with a particular hormonal composition are more likely to regain the weight after ceasing the diet, according to a new Spanish study. Headed by Ana Crujeiras, of Complejo Hospitalario Universitario de Santiago in Spain, the study found a connection between appetite hormones, such as ghrelin and leptin, and long-range weight-loss complications. Ms Crujeiras said the research may indicate that the outcome of weight therapy may be preconditioned. "Our findings may provide endocrinology and nutrition professionals a tool to identify individuals in need of specialised weight-loss programs that first target appetite hormone levels before beginning conventional dietary treatment," she added.

AustralAsian Academy of Anti-Ageing Medicine (A5M) Chairman Mr Bill Anton said the study showed a certain combination of appetite hormones leptin and ghrelin appears to predispose some people to weight gain following a diet. "Body weight and fasting plasma levels of ghrelin, leptin and insulin were tested before dieting, during the diet, and about four months post-diet," Mr Anton said.

“Those with higher leptin and lower ghrelin

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GENES SET HEPATITIS C TREATMENT Genetic fingerprinting may predict who will benefit from early hepatitis C treatment and who will clear the virus spontaneously, according to research by the University of New South Wales. Researchers believe it is now possible to use genotyping to predict which patients are likely to clear the infection spontaneously and which will benefit from early therapy. Led by Professor Gregory Dore and Dr Jason Grebely, the researchers found that genetic changes near the human IL28B gene identified recently as linked to the ability to control hepatitis C infection may also be used to identify those patients with recent infection whose own immune system is like to clear the virus without therapy. "The use of human genotyping may change the landscape of how we treat patients with recent HCV infection," said Dr Grebely, a lecturer in the Viral Hepatitis and Clinical

HORMONE HARMONY WORKSHOP Learn how to help your patients enhance their life by making sure their hormones are balanced, decreasing exposure to stress, and lastly, reducing exposure to toxins in the environment. This practical series for medical professionals will be held in various States across Australia in February and March 2011. Dr Alice Stanton is one of the world's leading experts on women's health and hormone therapy. She is the author of the best-selling book Hormone Harmony and Chief Medical Officer of BodyLogic MD. Learn how to help your patients feel their best with bio-identical hormones with Dr Stanton's three-pronged approach to wellness.

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The education program will include customised fitness and nutrition programs, bioidentical hormone replacement therapy, as well as testing, diagnosis and treatment of hormone imbalance associated with menopause and andropause, adrenal fatigue and thyroid disorders. For more information or to register visit www.a5m.net or phone 03 9813 0439.

STRESS CAN CONTROL OUR GENES

researchers have studied in detail a complex called PRC2. PRC2 can attach small chemical groups such as mythyl groups to the histones. Protective complexes can bind to the histones when this marker is present and the genes are turned off. Their new results show that the protective complexes are lost and selected genes turned on when cells are exposed to external stress factors. The reason why the complexes are lost is that the stress factors instruct an enzyme named MSK to attach another chemical group – a phosphate group – to the histones neighbouring the methyl group. The phosphate group neutralises the effect of the mythyl grup and turns specific genes on. "The consequence is that genes that should be turned off are now active and this may disturb cellular development, identity and growth," said researcher, Simmi Gehani. Source: International Journal Molecular Cell

Stress is not a psychological condition, but can actually arise at the cellular level after exposure to pollution, tobacco smoke and bacterial toxins, according to researchers at the University of Copenhagen. Led by Dr. Klaus Hansen, the researchers have discovered that the external factors can stress our cells and control our genes. Chairman of A5M Bill Anton said, "We have known that emotional stress is a serious health concern, but this study shows that external stressors can also have debilitating long-term effects. "This research indicates that stressactivating factors can control our genes by turning on certain genes that were supposed to be silenced," Mr Anton said.

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“The researchers found that exposing human cells to a stress-activating compound turned on silenced genes. Altered gene activity can have serious consequences in the adult body. Prolonged stress causes nerve cells in the brain to produce hormones and other signalling molecules they do not normally produce and this can disturb normal brain function.”

These findings may have important implications for the future of Preventative Health and Anti-Ageing Medicine. The

Module 1: will be held on November 21-22, consisting of a comprehensive two fulldays curriculum covering Anti-Ageing Medicine in clinical speciality.

Course learning objectives include: ! Define how our biochemistry, organ function, chronic disease and lifestyle factors accelerate the ageing process. ! Appreciate the role of Anti-Ageing Medicine as an integrative tool combining nutritional therapy, supplementation, lifestyle changes, hormonal and other pathology testing and the use of anti-ageing treatment protocols. ! Understand the integration of theories of ageing and the processes behind ageing, including inflammation, depletion and wear and tear. ! Define and understand the role of hormones – identifying the biochemical process of hormones in the body. The Certification program also includes extensive case-studies and selected readings with each module and quarterly webinars with key speakers from the program.

UPCOMING ANTI-AGEING MEDICINE CERTIFICATION DATES While anti-ageing Certification is available for medical and healthcare practitioners with A5M, it has now been introduced for allied health professionals and aestheticians. Aestheticians and dermal therapists can now become qualified in Anti-Ageing Medicine with the introduction of the Australasian Certification in Anti-Ageing Medicine. A5M Chairman Bill Anton said the Certification program would give practitioners a broader understanding of Anti-Ageing Medicine and how we age. “Getting certified in Anti-Ageing Medicine can help you to build your practice without breaking the bank or taking huge bites of your precious time," Mr Anton said. “This program can really set your practice apart and improve your client/patient care.”

An overview of the full Certification program is available in the full-page article in this journal. Upon completion of the Certification program and maintenance of a current A5M membership, participants will have the opportunity to be listed in the official A5M Anti-Ageing Practitioners Directory. Upcoming Certification: Module 1 November 20-21, 2010 Doctors can also undertake the AustralAsian Fellowship in Anti-Ageing and Regenerative Medicine. Upcoming Fellowship Modules: Module 1 November 20-21, 2010 Melbourne To register visit www.a5m.net or phone 03 9813 0439. You can also visit www.apanetwork.com/a5m_CP.html

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anti-ageing ㄰

New Breakthrough in Dermal Anti-Ageing using LASER PHOTO-BIOMODULATION AND HYALURONIC ACID Tina Henrietta E. Czech Tina Czech is an international educator specialising in laser photomedicine, dermal and tissue repair and laser photo-biomodulation techniques. In this article she present the results that can be achieved through a low- intensity laser when combined with a pure form of hyaluronan, promising results that are comparable to injectables, yet delivered without heat or trauma to the tissue. The latest clinical trials conducted by RJ Laser in Germany have demonstrated that applying particular wavelengths of laser light at very low dosages instigates cellular regeneration and increased collagen production. The rate of cellular and tissue response was further enhanced by applying a specialised formula of hyaluronic acid to the surface of the skin prior to applying the laser. This resulted in a significant reduction of wrinkles, soft tissue atrophy and sagging after a series of laser exposures and applications of the hyaluronic acid within a 4-6 week period. This side-effect-free procedure utilises the exceptional hydrating properties of pure hyaluronic acid (HA), also known as hyaluronan, when combined with the photo-biomodulating benefits of laser light without the thermal effects associated with other types of lasers and IPL devices currently being used for skin rejuvenation.

INJURY OR HEAT NOT NECESSARY ㄰ 㤵 㜵

Furthermore, laboratory and clinical research has also demonstrated that skin injury by physical, chemical or thermal agents is not a prerequisite for regeneration of skin tissue. Fibroblast cell proliferation and collagen production following laser photo-biomodulation has been investigated in laboratory-cultured fibroblasts with electronmicroscopic visualisation of collagen formation in irradiated and non-irradiated fibroblasts. The 3H-proline and 14C-glicine radioisotope incorporation gave quantitative assessment, which demonstrated a 30% increase in collagen production in irradiated cells. As little as one joule of energy was found to be highly effective in stimulating cells with previously low activity in comparison to cells

with normal activity. Measurements as high as 35 fold were achieved in very low productive fibroblasts, which suggests that laser photobiomodulation may be of significant benefit in supporting fibroblast cell activity, which declines due to the ageing process. One of the chief components of the extracellular matrix is hyaluronan, which is a glycosaminoglycan that significantly contributes to skin and soft tissue hydration by its water-absorbing properties i.e. one gram can absorb up to six litres of water. The average 70kg person has approximately 15 grams of hyaluronan in their body, one-third of which is turned over every day by degrading and synthesising processes.

DECLINING LEVELS OF HYALURONAN Cell migration and proliferation, particularly keratinocyte cells in epithelial tissue, are further stimulated by an increased presence of retinoic acid when HA levels in the skin are high. HA is abundant in skin during the first three decades of life, but then begins to decline, due to the ageing process and ㄰ 㤵 㜵

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accumulated skin damage resulting from exposure to ultraviolet radiation from the sun.

UV RADIATION DECREASES HYALURONIC ACID IN SKIN

Exposure to UVB solar radiation and associated sunburn dramatically reduces the production of HA by the cells in the dermal layer of the skin, which contributes to a loss of tissue hydrodynamics and cellular activity. However, hyaluronic acid does not act solely as a hydrophilic reservoir within the surface of the skin. When skin is injured a sequence of biological events occurs following the initiation of inflammation, which results in the regeneration of new granulation tissue, reepithelialisation and scar tissue remodelling.

ANTI-INFLAMMATORY EFFECTS OF LASER PHOTOBIO-MODULATION COMBINED WITH SPECIALISED HYALURONIC ACID FORMULA In the early inflammatory phase of skin repair HA is abundant because it acts as a promoter of inflammation, but it can also moderate the inflammatory response, and it is this hydrated micro-environment created by the presence of HA that is critical for cell migration. Facilitating cell detachment within an open hydrated matrix is attributed to by the physio-chemical properties and direct interactions of HA, which also acts as a free-radical scavenger and may also function in the negative feedback loop of inflammatory activation by specifically interacting with the biological constituents of inflammation. Dry,scaly skin (xerosis) associated with dermatitis, rosacea and

eczema can benefit from the high bio-compatibility, antiinflammatory and anti-free radical effects of both HA and laser induced photo-biomodulation. Autoradiography has proven that drug free hyaluronan can disseminate through all the layers of intact skin within 30 minutes, and that the passage of hyaluronan through the epidermis does not solely rely on passive diffusion, but may be facilitated by active processes. The largest amounts of HA are found in the intercellular matrix of the skin and musculo-skeletal tissues. Circulating HA is mostly derived from lymph, but as much as 80-90% may be extracted by lymph nodes before HA can reach the bloodstream. It is specifically bound between cells or binding proteins, and much of the HA within tissues exists in freely mobilised compartments with a half-life of two or less days and is then metabolised.

BEFORE

AFTER 1 TREATMENT

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TM

POLYLASER Trion DERMA

Experience the incredible bio-modulating effects of the POLYLASER Trion DERMALTM ... and a uniquely-formulated HYALURONIC ACID INFUSION

NEW BREAKTHROUGH TREATMENT EXTENDS HYALURONIC ACID AVAILABILITY IN SKIN The latest treatment combination developed by RJ Laser utilises the Polylaser Trion DERMATM and a pure medical-grade HA formula. This HA formula has been scientifically improved to enable maximum absorption and long-term stability within the skin and surrounding soft tissues, thereby assisting to maintain the natural structural integrity of the dermal collagen matrix. This is further supported by the implementation of a specially designed portable laser device emitting a range of selected wavelengths of light energy to reach and regenerate the deeper underlying, supportive soft tissues and muscles without risk of injury or burning.

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The photo-biomodulating effects of the Polylaser Trion DERMATM with its specially contoured dermatological lens is used to facilitate active biological processes and increase cell membrane permeability for HA to be effectively and rapidly absorbed. Furthermore,it utilises bio-modulating bio-chemical pathways to slow down degradation of HA in situ.

MAXIMISE SKIN REGENERATION BEFORE AND AFTER THERMAL LASER, FRAXEL AND IPL

NO PAIN – NO SIDE EFFECT – NO RISKS AFFORDABLE

POLYLASER Trion DERMAL + Hyaluronic Acid Gel offers a very gentle, yet dramatic skin regeneration result using effective photo energy.

This new therapeutic combination of the Polylaser Trion DERMATM and hyaluronic acid is providing a truly natural anti-ageing treatment that is effective and affordable as a stand-alone regular skinrejuvenation treatment for all skin types and all areas of the body. It can be used as an adjunct to IPL and laser, or Fraxel skin rejuvenation during the necessary interim rest periods between these photo-thermal procedures.

KEY WORDS: Hyaluronic acid – derived from hyalos (Greek for vitreous) and uronic acid, which was first isolated from the vitreous humour of the eye and possesses a high uronic acid content. Hyaluronate – refers to the conjugate base of hyaluronic acid. Hyaluronan – a molecule that typically exists in vivo in its polyanionic form. Photo-biomodulation – light-induced instigation of biological and physiological activity, without producing thermal tissue interactions.

REFERENCES Foschi D., et al., International Journal on Tissue Reaction, 1990,12:333-339 Shu XZ, Ghosh K,Liu Y, Palumbo FS Luo Y, Clark RAF, Prestwich G D: Attachment and spreading of fibroblast on a RGD peptide – modified injectable Hyaluronan hydrogel. J. Biomed Materials Res, 68:365-75,2004 Gao F, et al. Hyaluronan oligosaccarides are potential stimulators to angiogenesis via RHAMM mediated signal pathway in wound healing.. Clinical and investigative Medicine . 2008; 31:E106-116. Lam T. S .,Abergel R. P., Meeker C.A., Castel J.C., Dwyer R.M., Uttio J..: Laser Stimulation of Collagen Synthesis in Human Skin Fibroblast Cultures: Lasers in Life Sciences 1986. 1 (1):61.

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The results speak for themselves!

BOOK NOW for our NEXT Melbourne Workshop. Sunday 14th November 3pm-5pm For further details Call 1300 887 344 Australian Institute of Laser Therapy

Tina Henrietta Czech is the principle of the Australian Institute of Laser Therapy, which is a nationally registered training organisation in cosmetic and therapeutic laser therapy. Tina holds a university Degree in Health Science, Graduate Diploma in Clinical Nutrition, International Diploma in Aesthetics and Electrotherapy and numerous post-graduate qualifications in the field of laser. Tina is internationally renowned as a leading educator in her field, specialising in laser photo-medicine, dermal and tissue repair and is a member of the Honorary Board of Directors for the World Academy of Laser Applications and laser technical adviser to the Royal District Nursing Service LILT Research Reference Group and Standards Australia Medical Laser Committee. For further information about the PolylaserTrion DERMA and hyaluronic acid phone the Australian Institute Of Laser Therapy on 1300 887 344.

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His and her

SKINCARE! TAKE GOOD CARE OF YOUR PRECIOUS SKIN WITH HEAD TO TOE TREATMENTS AND PRODUCTS FOR MEN AND WOMEN FROM MADAME KORNER

BENEFITS TO YOU, THE BEAUTY THERAPIST • Products formulated and manufactured in Australia from the finest natural ingredients the world has to offer • Kind to your precious skin and has not been tested on animals • Originally designed for salon treatments • Proved so popular that it evolved into the home care range • Results achieved in the salon treatments will be maintained, prolonging the beneficial elements for the skin • Madame Korner’s classic Skin Care range is recognised for its integrity and commitment to your skin’s wellbeing.

Well over 100% profitability on all products Opening orders customised for individual salons or freelance operators Free product education • Affordable boutique products

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www.madamekorner.com


anti-ageing conference ㄰

4th Annual Anti-Ageing & Aesthetic Medicine Conference (A5M) Prevention— the Future of Health and Medicine A most successful event New knowledge and information is pregnant with great possibilities. It empowers us to change gears, expand and embrace new concepts that have the potential to transform what we do and give it new meaning through a fresh, new purpose. In terms of our industry, current emerging trends have their foundation on research findings on genetics and biochemical information that provides new approaches to integrative medicine that can now offer hope in disease prevention and longevity. Why is this important, and how does it relate to aesthetics, especially if you are not a doctor? The reason has to do with the magic word "anti-ageing", for which more and more clients are coming to us for solutions.

It would be true to say that the majority within our industry have to some extend a "head" knowledge of how such information may impact on the issue of wellness, skin improvement and true antiageing solutions. On the other hand there are others who have grasped this understanding with their "heart" – that is, with greater zest and a sense of urgency. For them, growing their knowledge has become a matter of priority.

RECORD ATTENDANCE This year the 4th Annual Anti-Ageing & Aesthetic Medicine Conference (A5M) had the theme "Prevention – the Future of Health and Medicine". The event saw a huge increase in participation, both from the medical community and from aesthetic therapists who wanted to learn more. Specifically for aesthetic therapists, a full-day workshop was conducted on Sunday 22nd August, hosted through a joint initiative between A5M and APAN. The workshop – Building your Aesthetic Anti-Ageing Clinic or Medispa – was presented by world-renowned Manon Pilon, who addressed how to make the transition into a true anti-ageing clinic or medispa by embracing concepts and modalities that will allow you to move with confidence in this area. The event was opened by Bill Anton, Chairman of A5M, and Dr Bob Goldman, chairman of the American Academy of Anti-Ageing Medicine and the World Academy of Anti-Ageing Medicine.

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Tina Viney, CEO of APAN, also presented an opening address since this was the first event that was as a result of a joint initiative between the two organisations (see on next page).

Dr Michael Zacharia

There was a great deal of food for thought as Manon presented global trends in aesthetics and wellness to eager delegates who were already working with anti-ageing principles, or who were contemplating introducing them. While Manon presented a broad overview of the

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Tina Viney and Gay Wardle

Dr Caroline Low, Heyltje Vaneveld, Dr Julie Bradford

Dr Robert Goldman, Dr Michael Klentze, Dr Michael Zacharia, Prof Chen Chen, Helen and Bill Anton

Manon Pilon in speeding the fat-burning process and re-establishing the brain's set point on how the body relates to fat storage. This diet was first introduced by Dr A.T.W. Simeons over 50 years ago and is currently enjoying a resurgence in popularity due to the very rapid results that it can achieve. In light of this, the lecture answered many concerns and draw a lot of interest from the delegates. Another, very popular lecture by biochemist Henry Osiecki was the Common Biochemical Pathways

in Disease and Ageing. Henry Osiecki presented

Tina Viney, Dr Michael Zacharia and Terry Everitt

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many different disciplines needing to come together rather than an indepth presentation of a specific area, it offered valuable insight of what highly successful clinics are implementing and the step-by-step strategies of how they are achieving successful businesses. As the Medical Conference was staged over a two day period several aesthetic therapists chose to also attend the medical stream on the Saturday where a number of topics that included internal and external medicine were presented. While all the presentations were popular of great interest were sessions such as:

The use of HCG for Weight Loss presented by Dr Conrad Hicks. This lecture address the role of the hypothalamus in weight

how chronic diseases and ageing are associated with inflammation and how pro-inflammatory cytokines and substances produced by the innate immune system affect ageing. Some of these pathways were identified as being oxidative stress, metabolic stress, poor immunity and detoxification, circadian rhythm disorders, mechanical stress and nutrient deficiency/malabsorption just to name a few. The good news is that many of these pathways can be manipulated by judicious supplementation of nutrients and polyphenols, which Mr Osiecki identified. (A full article on this presentation will be published in the next issue of APJ).

Full Facial Assessment and Attractiveness in a Female Face was another great lecture presented by Associate Professor Greg Goodman about a number of elements that when combined allow humans to identify attractiveness in others. Concepts such as sexual dimorphism, symmetry, averageness and ageing all contribute to how we perceive other's attractiveness or otherwise. The holistic way that humans perceive attractiveness means that full facial assessment is an essential tool in cosmetic practise.

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loss and the use of Human Chorionic Gonadotropin (HCG) hormone

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incredible educational platform, so lookout, next year will be even better. If you are serious about your profession, we encourage you to be there it will be one of the best investments you will ever make.

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A PA N ’s C H I E F E X E C U T I V E O F F I C E R ' S ADDRESS

I believe every profession survives on its ability to embrace not only the wisdom of the past but also the advances of the future. In the aesthetic industry that means new technologies, but also the strong shifts towards the integration of wellness and anti-ageing that is fast becoming our core business. This shift is not necessarily driven by something the industry has come up with, but by market forces and growing consumer demand.

Manon Pilon, Terry Everitt, Tina Viney, Bill Anton and Dr Robert Goldman Full facial assessment is a skill that must be practiced and methods of analysis will assist in performing this task. Looking at sect ions and sides of the face, regions and individual features as well as a client/patient's best and worst features are all, pertinent to this purpose. In this lecture Dr Goodman examined the way that humans perceive attractiveness in others and how this understanding contributes to making a successful full facial assessment. (We will also be featuring an article from Dr Goodman in the upcoming March 2011 issue of APJ.)

IN CONCLUSION It was very reassuring to see aestheticians take advantage of such a credible educational platform and immerse themselves in sometimes purely academic information without feeling intimidated by it. It was also encouraging to see several therapists take advantage of the new A5M Certification Program in Anti-Ageing medicine written specifically for allied health professionals and aesthetic therapists by A5M. For further details of this program see page 75). This is only the beginning. We anticipate continued growth and improvement as each year new topics are identified. APAN is privileged to have been invited to join and contribute to such an

Last year when we made the decision to establish APAN we had a clear objective of the organisation's purpose. I didn't believe the industry needed another association, but I did believe that there was much more that needed to be done and to be achieved in a timely manner. APAN is committed to breaking new ground for the aesthetic industry. It will achieve this through the negotiation of strong strategic alliances that would empower the industry to advance with greater confidence and gain a more credible profile with the medical profession, and ultimately with consumers who are comparing our services with other options available to them. To hold onto our market share we needed to act proactively. I would like to take this opportunity to officially thank the Dr Michael Zachariah president of A5M and Bill Anton Chairman of A5M for believing in our purpose and agreeing to an alliance between A5M and APAN. This conference marks the beginning of a strong and purposeful collaboration that aims to bring credible world-class education that will assist you to be the leaders in your practice and your businesses. It is the first time that an aesthetic organisation has formally collaborated with a Medical Society. This collaboration has also led to the introduction of the first Certification Program developed by A5M for the Allied Health Professionals including aesthetic therapists. Attending this conference will qualify you for an elective towards this certification.

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APAN’s CEO – Tina Viney ㈵

True anti-ageing is more than just improving one's appearance, we need to also investigate and understand the internal mechanisms that influence ageing. I believe there is not a more credible platform on the planet to learn about anti-ageing than through A5M. They are the peak body and the true experts who will guide us on how we should be addressing anti-ageing. This is why we chose to work collaboratively with them. The successful aesthetic therapist of the future will be working with several medical and allied health professionals for better

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Manon Pilon, Prof Katherine Blashki, Maureen Houssein-Mustafa and Tina Viney treatment outcome. To achieve this successfully requires the right education. Our speaker Manon Pilon is renowned worldwide for her knowledge and education. Much of what she will share with you she has personally achieved. She has established world-class anti-ageing clinics and medispas. She is an author and accomplished educator having also established her own training institute. Her presentation today will give you a valuable overview of the key elements you will need to have in place if you are to step up your practices to world class and to the demands of change. Individually, you may have certain protocols in place, but Manon will show you the step-by-step approach on how you can more effectively integrate them for superior results to a much higher level.

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Through its vast international networks on a daily basis APAN investigates global activities and consumer trends that affect our industry. We gather valuable industry intelligence and through this knowledge we are able to identify opportunities and e s t a b l i s h platforms of learning and better ways of serving and empowering the industry so that it can move forward with confidence. I trust you will all take advantage of this information through your membership support and join A P A N ' s Tina Viney and Tina Czech community of practice.

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Last, but not least I would like to thank you our delegates for your response in supporting this event. Enjoy this conference and remember this is only the beginning of great things to come.

For more information visit www.apanetwork.com and join us in 2011.

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organic skincare ㄰

The birth of an Organic Formulation Synthesis 356 is a newly launched organic skincare that promises purity and nurture to restore balance to skin, mind and body.

You only have to look and briefly interact with Theme Rain to realise that whatever she undertakes will definitely be special. She is very much a gentle soul with a very caring nature, a love for purity and a holistic approach to life and living. So when she decided to launch her own skincare brand, Synthesis 345, she ensured that it incorporated all the elements of quality, nurture and purity that would reflect her values. Theme is based in Tyalgum in northern NSW and lives on an incredible organic property surrounded by beautiful flowers and herbs. This magical environment offers her the perfect ambience and is the source of her inspiration to continue her creative innovations, as well as a place to offer her services and training.

APJ 2. What led you to decide to produce your own skincare range? Theme: Synthesis 345 brings a whole lot of elements together

The whole brand has an amazing feel and smell and resonates with vitality and purity as a result of the extremely high-quality natural ingredients and pure essential oils that are predominantly organic. Synthesis 345 does not compromise on quality, and utilises some of the most expensive medicinal-grade ingredients and essential oils on the planet, including high quantities of Otto Rose, which runs throughout the whole range. This is not your run of the mill organic or

nurturing the skin and body as well as cosmology that connect us to ancient wisdom and modern science that will take us to a place of greater balance. Our skincare and treatment protocols work on several levels helping nurture, relax and revive the whole individual and not just the skin. Without nurture we cannot grow and reach our full potential. Our products embrace a holistic approach to more effectively address the needs of modern pressures and the demands of today's clients.

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nature product. Generous in high quality and quantity of active ingredients, from the first touch you know you are dealing with a very special product. Here is what Theme has to say about her philosophy and why the brand was launched.

APJ 1. Theme, tell us about your background and history and what were your dreams and aspirations as a young girl? Theme: Twelve years ago I was studying law and my life was very much intertwined in the corporate world. In that environment I became very aware of the high levels of competition and high stress that were very much part of that business world. However, during a holiday overseas I had the opportunity to explore other philosophies and experienced a spiritual awakening that drew my interest into universal laws. I became interested in a holistic lifestyle and started studying naturopthathy and herbalism, as I understood the importance of health and balance in one's life. This shift led me to pursue a different career path that would engage me with other human beings in a more giving and caring manner. Developing a high-quality, pure skincare with a holistic approach was the perfect vehicle to help create a nurturing environment that would also effectively help reduce stress levels in the body. Thus Synthesis 345 was developed as a treatment and skincare range, supported by very specific protocols for its application to enhance the nurturing and relaxation experience, while working on cellular and energetic levels for skin improvement and beyond.

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APJ 3. What are the unique qualities or ingredients of your product range? Theme: Our products are natural and certified

organic. We have also accessed proven cosmeceutical ingredients that can enhance the performance of the products – we only use the very finest organic ingredients, as well as the highestquality phytonutrients. For example, we use the highest-grade Rose Otto which runs through the whole range. Otto Rose has incredible skin rejuvenating properties and works amazingly well on three different levels – on the skin, on a hormonal level as well as on an emotional level. As you know, Otto Rose is the world's most expensive oil, this is why it is frequently extended with other lesser oils or adulterated. Buying the purest form ensures that the therapeutic constituents are there to benefit the body and mind on so many levels. We also use other high-grade oils such as chamomile and neroli. Our formulas are 100 per cent vegan-suitable, with no animal products or byproducts used. The whole range has also undergone a vibrational energetic process to further enhance its wellness benefits.

APJ 4. Do you have a very favourite product from your range and what is so special about it? Theme: Our Regenerative Elixiar is my favourite. As soon as you use it you are immediately enveloped with its delicate rose aroma, which is so uplifting and soothing. It also includes pomegranate extract for its antioxidant properties as well as excellent essential fatty acids and other amazing ingredients that work also on the emotional and stress level. Before you apply this product to the skin we recommend you add a couple of drops in the centre of the palm of the hand and take a few deep breaths, inhaling it into the lungs. This allows the essential oils to work on the brain as well, bringing about a feeling of total relaxation.

APJ 5. Do you have any success stories you would like to share with us of someone who has used your products? Theme: We have numerous amazing testimonials. One that comes to mind was a schoolteacher who had suffered from dry, reactive skin. Within two weeks of using our products the heat and irritation was totally released and the skin was restored and total balanced to a healthy state. Another journalist from London who was living a very stressful life found that in just a few months of using our skincare her worry lines as well as her mental tension just melted away. She told us there is something in this product that goes beyond the ingredients.

We have been successfully exporting to England for over four years. Now that we have finalised reformatting our range and have achieved Eco and organic Certifications we believe our product is perfectly positioned for the Australian salon and spa market.

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APJ 6. What do you believe consumers are looking for today and how do you believe your products meet those needs? Theme: They are definitely looking for results, but they still want their stress levels to be also taken care of, so the balance has to be there if you want repeat clients and continued loyalty. We are also finding that there is a strong social consciousness with many clients who are

concerned with fair trade and labour exploitation. We adhere to high ethical standards and they like that. Furthermore, as our products are very concentrated a small amount goes a long way, so it is a quality product at a cost-effective price. Our ingredient choices offer excellent penetration capabilities and can quickly nourish and heal the skin. This is why they are also suited to clients who are undergoing medical aesthetic procedures.

APJ 7. Do you have any tests that validate the results your products can deliver? Theme: We have conducted several laboratory tests for purity and efficacy as we are very selective with our ingredients and we want validated evidence of their performance to support our statements with the level of credibility that we want to be known for.

APJ 8. Why should a salon take on your products and what are you doing for consumer awareness of your brand? Theme: Synthesis 345 offers a salon, clinic or spa a quality product that will go beyond the skin to also work on mental and emotional levels and minimise the impact of stress. All our products have been manufactured to high standards so they are guaranteed to deliver results. Additionally, we are working with a PR agent and several beauty editors in consumer publications to establish our brand awareness. Our salons will benefit from this through referrals from these activities.

APJ 9. What is your vision for the future? Theme: We want to hold our position as a quality contemporary product that still stay within the organic framework, continue with new product development to complement our range and help our salons grow their business through quality products with a great profit margin and a unique experience for their client. We have specific techniques that enhance the results of our treatments and we will continue to grow these protocols to ensure the perfect client experience. Training in our products also incudes specific techniques to enhance the results of our treatments and training is supported with comprehensive manuals. Synthesis 345 is well suited to large establishments, as well as for the smaller businesses, as we do not require large opening orders.

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If you would like further information on Synthesis 345 Skincare please contact Theme Rain on 02 6672 3454.

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new membership package However, as new units are constantly being added to the Beauty Training Package, there is also pressure on the colleges to cover the course curriculum within the designated academic year. This may mean that once a student completes certain units of training and is assessed as having reached the level of competence needed, they then move on to new units necessary to complete their qualification, and don’t perform the previous tasks within the units they have passed, until after they leave college and are working in a salon. As a result, the student may lose confidence in those activities due to a lack of sufficient and consistent ongoing practice, which they may or may not be doing.

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AN INNOVATIVE SOLUTION Meanwhile APAN was approached by Beauty Plus Insurance who were launching a new unique insurance facility underwritten by Lloyd’s of London, to the Australian market. Beauty Plus Insurance had been working over the past two years on an exciting and innovative insurance product specifically focusing on the beauty student. This product was designed and tailored to assist students who have completed and reached a level of competency in various units of their course, to now secure full insurance to cover them performing skills in those units. This will allow them to confidently engage in continued skills development by either working for themselves or hiring their services to salons as a contractor. After reviewing this insurance and identifying various ways of perfecting it, the APAN STUDENT PLUS MEMBERSHIP has now been launched. It offers a combination of Student membership to an industry standards body – with study resources, membership certification, regular journals and other member benefits; as well as a unique form of insurance that can be activated as soon as they have reached competency levels in individual units.

APAN Student Plus Membership Package – Meeting an Industry Need Pressures for reaching the demanding expectations of a constantly evolving industry has often placed a great deal of stress on graduating students. Now a new tool promises to offer solutions.

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Not a week goes by that APAN does not receive a phone call from a salon owner who is frustrated in their search for competent staff, whom they can trust to fit into their business. Part of this frustration sometimes lies in the fact that some salon owners do not fully understand the importance of putting new staff through a thorough and detailed induction program, in order to appropriately orientate them into their salon's culture and methodologies, before they start working on their clients. While we attempt to encourage this process so that new staff can reach full compliance to their expectations, there is still a strong perception by salon owners that students who graduate, in their opinion, are often not competent – at least not to today's industry standards. This is a real concern within the industry and APAN has been approached to come up with some solutions. On further investigating the concern we are convinced that most colleges, who are Registered Training Organisations, invest heavily in ensuring that their students have reached the acceptable industry standard of training before being deemed competent in each and every unit of training.

HOW WILL THE APAN STUDENT PLUS MEMBERSHIP PACKAGE BENEFIT THE INDUSTRY? As we have already stated, students that pass a unit still need to continue developing their skills, so that when they graduate their course their transition into full-time employment will be smooth and with the level of confidence that the industry demands. While "student work experience" has its place, the expectations by the client who is getting a "free facial" or a "half-price facial" are not as demanding as what they will encounter in the commercial world. A full-paying client has expectations and demands a certain standard to the service they are paying for. These expectations, we believe, will better prepare the student for the real world of beauty in which they will enter.

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These are the areas we believe they can be better prepared to enter their new career: ! Confidently performing the services to a high industry standard ! Being able to perform the service within a realistic time-frame for commercial viability ! Being able to identify and perform up-selling to other services ! Correct record keeping for the client

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Engaging and relating to the client as a potential on-going client to the business and not as a one-off service

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We have also become aware within the industry that students currently are setting up salon business and working on paying clients within the units they have passed, even though they cannot get insurance cover for these activities. The reason for this is that they are still finalising their studies, but need to earn an income. This exposes them to risk. Now with the APAN STUDENT PLUS MEMBERSHIP package this concern is effectively taken care of.

The APAN Student Plus Membership program therefore aims to support skills development for students who have received competence in certain units to:

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Be able to contract their specific services to salons who could use them, thereby freeing senior staff to work on more profit-making and advanced procedures Continue to build on their confidence, efficiency and speed in performing the units they have completed to industry standards, while finalising other units to gain full qualification Be able to earn an income to support their fees and other financial obligations

WHO IS BEAUTY PLUS INSURANCE? Emma Kimonides, an insurance and operational risk management expert with 22 years of insurance and risk experience, joined forces with Damien Muller, the Southern Region Underwriter Manager for Lloyds cover hold Resource Underwriting Pacific P/L, to form Beauty Plus Insurance. This newly formed service provider has a combination of 35 years of specialist insurance experience – incorporating the key aspects of the insurance industry of Underwriting, Brokering, Claims and Risk Management.

His prime focus for the past two years has been in the assessment, research and developing of specialised group programs, which led to the creation of the Beauty Plus Insurance Student cover.

ABOUT EMMA KIMONIDES Emma has spent many years honing her skills in both the areas of Risk and Insurance. She is a Fellow of the Australian and New Zealand Institute of Insurance and Finance, Member of the Risk Management Institute of Australasia, College Associate of National Insurance Brokers Association and a certified insurance practitioner who holds post-graduate degrees in insurance and business. Emma has also completed an MBA. This year she was nominated for an international award and was a finalist in the MCEI Awards (Marketing Communications Executives International), an international awards program for marketing and communication innovations. Emma believes that the key to providing good service is not through providing an off-the-shelf product, but through providingpersonalised advice and tailored a insurance program to suit an individual and/or the needs of the business.

ABOUT DAMIEN MULLER

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Damien commenced his career in insurance in 1996 by working for the first specialised Lloyd's Underwriting Agency's in Australia, Resource Underwriting Pacific Pty Ltd. After nine years of working through the Underwriting ranks in the Melbourne head office, and along the way picking up the occasional award, Damien relocated to Sydney to assist in the growth and development of the Sydney branch. After three years in Sydney he moved back to Melbourne to take up the lead role as Southern Region Underwriting Manager. Damien's underwriting role provides challenges on a daily basis as he reviews and provides insurance solutions for a range of industries – such as allied health, professional services, construction, government regulated schemes and the legal profession to name a few.

STRENGTH IN UNITY The APAN STUDENT PLUS MEMBERSHIP package is an industry first and involves two organisations working together to provide effective problem-solving solutions needed by a changing industry environment. Both Emma and Damien are firm believers that the only way to understand any job is through direct involvement. "Through consultation with APAN we believe that together we have been able to perfect a package that meets with the unique needs of students and their colleges and prepares students to face a demanding commercial world with greater confidence," Emma stated. The APAN STUDENT PLUS MEMBERSHIP package is available to all colleges who are Registered Training Organisations. Through the unique combination of APAN Student Membership and Beauty Plus Insurance Student cover, the total package has been created to provide a substantial benefit to both the college and its students. Additionally, RTOs could find this product provides them with a competitive marketing advantage as well as further support risk management for their students. This package is also available for hairdressing students.

If you believe you could benefit from the APAN STUDENT PLUS MEMBERSHIP package please contact Tina Viney Phone 07 55930360, Email: info@apanetwork.com, or Emma Kimonides Phone: 1300 726 113, Email: emma@beautyplusinsurance.com.au

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spa in the spotlight ㄰

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As an organisation APAN services the aesthetic industry in every State. Business and professional talent, however, is not just located in the cities. Through our interaction with many in the industry we have identified some incredible commitment, passion and achievements in some of the most remote regions of Australia that warrant recognition and celebration. In this article we speak to Toni Lane the principal and owner of Lush Body and Soul Beauty and Wellness Day Spa located in Kalgoorlie, Western Australia. We trust you will find her story inspirational.

The City of Kalgoorlie-Boulder is considered the hub of the Western Australian Goldfields region and located 596 kilometres northeast of Perth. Kalgoorlie-Boulder is the largest outback city with a population of over 30,000 people and is known as a dynamic and sophisticated regional centre.

APJ 1. Toni, tell us about the recent launch of your new spa and what theme have you based it on? Toni: Our original salon was doing very well, but was confined to 50

square metres, so when the opportunity came through some premises across the road, which offered 200 square metres, we felt we were ready to expand. This move we felt would allow us to offer our clients a great deal more as well as expand our database. The theme we chose for Lush Body and Soul Beauty and Wellness Spa is clean, simple and minimalistic. We have used grey, white and black as our colour scheme with a touch of Zen to take people into a different space. We felt that in a world of clutter and information overload cool, neutral colours are more calming with a modern edge.

Our launch consisted of two events — an Open Day and a VIP launch. During the open day we took guests through a tour of the premises and

KALGOORLIE strikes Gold with LUSH BODY AND SOUL BEAUTY AND WELLNESS SPA by Tina Viney The traditional landowners of the Kalgoorlie area are the Maduwangka people and the name Kalgoorlie is said to mean "Silky Pear Bush" in the local Aoriginal language. Perhaps more than anything, Kalgoorlie is known for its gold mining. Gold was first discovered in that region by Patrick "Paddy" Hannan and his mates in 1893, and led to one of Australia's great gold rushes, with thousands of hopefuls flocking to the area in hope of striking it rich. Thus the quiet region of Kalgoorlie soon became known as Australia's largest outback city. Kalgoorlie-Boulder is now the major producer of gold within the whole of Australia. In 1989 the two towns Kalgoorlie and Boulder joined to become a city after they had both serviced the famous 'Golden Mile'. Today the Golden Mile continues to be actively worked by Kalgoorlie Consolidated Gold Mines.

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However, Kalgoorlie residents are serviced by another noteworthy treasure - Lush Body and Soul Beauty and Wellness Spa that without a doubt is making its mark as a leader in the region for bringing to the locals and visiting guests the very best the aesthetic and spa industry has to offer. Toni Lane, owner of Lush Body and Soul Beauty Therapy Clinic, recently expanded the business from a 50 square- metre salon to a 200-square-metre day spa. Despite difficult economic times, she took the plunge to substantially grow her business to a whole new level. Her story demonstrates that where there is vision, provision will follow, and that success sometimes has more to do with what is in your heart, your convictions and your commitment to your dreams that it has to do with even global financial indicators. No doubt every high achiever has certain elements that underpin their success. We trust that through this interview you will identify the unique qualities that Toni possess that have secured her progress and success even in the midst of national financial uncertainties.

explained what activities would be performed in each room by way of introducing our services to everyone. If the guests chose to give us their contact details, as a "thank you" gesture we offered them the opportunity to come back to the spa for free by giving them a $60 Gift Voucher to experience the benefits of our far infra-red detox box. On the other hand, our VIP clients we invited to join us on a Saturday afternoon where we presented them with delicious food and drinks, while allowing then to view some of our new live treatment demonstrations. These included our hydro-capsule, Vichy shower, and some lovely body treatments and body wraps. We also demonstrated our spray tanning, microdermabrasion with oxygen infusion treatments and others. My assistant manage Sheree and therapist Carin alternated to do the demonstrations and they did a fantastic job. Our VIP Clients all received $100 treatment Gift Vouchers, which they were thrilled with.

APJ 2: You already had a very successful salon, what led you to expand to a full day spa concept, and what new features or services have you added to your treatment menu and new premises?

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If you start the day on a positive note on a mental and emotional level you will be able to better cope,no matter what the day may bring.

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astute. They now want more advanced treatments that can offer them real results. They expect us to be more professional and will turn to us for advice and be prepared to follow our recommendations only if they believe we continue to update our skills, knowledge and training.

Toni: In our beauty salon we offered traditional services and advanced facials. However, our new premises have given us the advantage of being able to designate specific areas for specific activities, including more advanced body treatments. We now have a wet room to offer spa services, a double-treatment room where a couple can share the experience of a lovely massage or body treatment. We have a special area for our spray tanning booth, a special makeup area that can accommodate six people — three clients and three therapists. This facility allows us to ensure that our clients not only feel great after our treatments, but can leave looking fantastic. We have a wonderful lounge where our clients can relax after a treatment and enjoy a refreshing drink or a lovely yogurt or juice, a beautiful reception area to greet our clients and special treatment areas to deliver advanced facials and anti-ageing treatments. Our new facilities allow us to offer our clients not only results, but also a wonderful and memorable experience. I believe in order to survive you need to be constantly evolving. You can’t afford to drop the ball and camp at yesterday's successes. I am aware in the industry that some people choose to divide services into treatment services and spa and pampering. I believe that the truly successful business should be offering both and not separate them and consumers are definitely seeking the whole package. For example, after performing a waxing services we could organise to offer a client a visit to our far infrared detox box. Recently, when we did just that we received a fantastic email from this client thanking us and saying that she had forgotten how it feels when someone can be so caring.

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APJ 4: What changes have you observed through consumer demand over the past five years? Toni: Clients have become better informed and more

APJ 6: What is your philosophy on client care that keeps your business growing? Toni: I believe that the most important consideration is to always offer products and services that represent value for money. I believe in quality, good old-fashioned service that is of the highest standard. It is also important to educate the client to know and understand the choices they have so that they can come to appreciate what you are offering them. Wherever possible we offer a gift with purchase. I also believe in being generous. If someone was very stressed I would consider giving them a gift voucher to our detox box to help them relax and unwind. However, for you to develop a reputation you need to maintain and remain consistent in the quality of the services you provide.

APJ 7: You have a young family. How do you manage to juggle family and business? Toni: I have to admit this can be quite challenging at times. However,

APJ 3: Name five of the most important considerations that keep you successful? Toni: 1. The most important thing for me is that I have a supportive

I spend quality time with my boys so that I can have real input into their life. I try to always take care of them. We walk the dog together and I always attempt to create balance in my life. I try to look after myself with a long shower, yoga and I always try to take some "time out for me" and this works for me.

my energy and focus on my own plans and vision. However, I sometimes notice that others follow us e.g. we were the first to introduce hot stone therapy, hydro-capsule and microdermabrasion in this region. Others have followed our lead. I guess this is a compliment.

I am very disciplined and stick to a routine that I believes helps stay on top of things. I make sure I knock off early to be with my boys.

APJ 5: How do you view the competition and what do you believe are the key factors that keep you ahead of other businesses? Toni: I must admit I don't really watch what others are doing as I use

It's all about balance and we try to provide and promote both results and nurture.

husband. I would be lost without my husband Daniel, who is supporting, understanding and is always there for me. 2. The next would have to be a good business coach. I have had Caroline Nelson as my business coach for three years. Without her I would have not grown as rapidly as I have. She has taught me a lot and has allowed me to become a confident businesswoman. 3. Every morning I spend just a few minutes to visualise what I want to achieve that day. How I want the day to go. I picture everyone happy. 4. I am a strong believer that we need to have an attitude of gratitude. Find something each morning to be thankful for and allow these thoughts to set the mood for the day. 5. Last but not least, treat people as you wish to be treated.

APJ 8: How would you rate the importance of pricing to clients responding to services, or are there other factors that override price? Toni: I believe clients are predominantly chasing value for money. The price may be a considering factor, but it is amazing if you can offer quality, positive, private solutions you will be able to sell your products and services with greater confidence.

APJ 9: Have you observed any new developments since your expansive move?

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Toni: Since the 19th of August when we moved to Lush Body and Soul Beauty and Wellness Spa we have seen many changes. The new facilities have allowed us to grow our client base. We are now selling a great deal more retail stock and the various designated areas allow us to better communicate with our clients and to more efficiently profile our products.

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Our clients are appreciating the added services and definitely spending more time and money with us. Our loyal clients that have followed us love the new services available through Lush Body and Soul Beauty and Wellness Spa and enjoy trying something new and expanding the services they can now access and experience with us. We are also finding that we are getting a lot more men coming in to purchase gift vouchers. The added exposure has resulted in us accessing more foot traffic and of course our referral has gown. It is also now much easier to tie one treatment into another and transition our clients into new experiences.

so that you can make room for progress. This may include treatments that are no longer profitable or effective, products that need replacing, and even people that no longer support your vision.

Lush Body and Soul Beauty and Wellness Spa is located at Shop 16 Hannans Blvd, Graeme Street, Kalgoorlie, WA, 6430. Phone 08 9021 3468 Email lushbodyandsoul@bigpond.com or visit www.lushbodyandsoul.com

Our clients appreciate that we can now offer better wellness service that can support their health and wellbeing. We now also have a doctor that comes once a month from Perth Dr Glen Murray, who owns Absolute Cosmetic Medicine in Perth, who offer a variety of services, including Botox, fillers, breast augmentation, IPL, etc. Additionally, we have a visiting Naturopath from Dunsborough. Her name is Erin Coyle. She comes for a week at a time and offers her clinical services every six weeks. We are now also offering yoga lessons/classes every Wednesday morning. These are private lessons, and we take four ladies only at a time. We offer three Lush's menus — One with Spa Packages, one with Beauty and Wellness and one for Bridal. You can view these online at www.lushbodandsoul.com We have 17 competitors in Kalgoorlie, but this is not affecting our business, we are continuing to grow.

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APJ 10. If you were asked to give some advice to colleagues on what they need to have in place to survive in their business what would it be? Toni: First, I would tell them to get a good business coach. I

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believe with the guidance and support of my coach I now have greater confidence and strength and am able to make the right decisions, more quickly. I also believe that to experience longevity in your business you need to achieve the right balance between work, home and family. The third consideration is continually look at what is working and what is not. Trim dead branches, identify what is no longer working and eliminate them

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technology ㄰

The Era of Bioenergetics - Good Vibes versus Bad by Dr Dzung Price In today's society we are all pressed against deadlines that seem to be getting shorter and shorter. We are all trying to fit more and more into the same 24 hours. The stress that results can wreak havoc on our skin and complexion as well as our health. Our technological age continually serves us up with wired and wireless wonders, processed and convenient food to adapt to the demands of our fast- paced hectic lifestyle. Most people underestimate the impact of chronic stress and toxins on their body's energy systems.

IT'S ALL ABOUT "ENERGY" We are beings of electromagnetic energy. In essence, our bodies function as dynamic electrical circuits. The body's energy system has been a fundamental part of traditional and alternative medicine for many, many years. An EEG measures the electrical activity of the brain, similar to the way in which an ECG measures electrical properties of the heart. When the paddles are used to revive someone in cardiac arrest, it is with the accepted knowledge that the body and heart run on electricity.

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Healthy cells, for instance, oscillate at higher frequencies than do unhealthy cells, such as cancer cells. Collectively, our cells form a living matrix through which the body conducts electrical impulses. Atoms are made up of electrons, protons and neutrons. They are electrical particles. All herbs, vitamins, medications and healing products are made up of atoms. Hence, they are all electrical and each produces its own unique frequency. (Everything electrical MUST have an electrical frequency!) Therefore all healing of ANY kind involves energy. Every cell in our body MUST have energy or it dies, even if the tissue, bones and chemicals are all fine. Savely Yurkovsky, M.D., founder of Field Control Therapy (FCT), states that the energetic domain is the most fundamental in the regulation of homeostasis and is the true source of health and disease. He notes that we cannot have disease without first having an energetic

disturbance in the cells and organs, which renders the energy flow ineffective. He further states that there are three predominant regulating domains in the human body, all of which are energetic in nature: 1. Electromagnetic 2. Electric 3. Biochemical Every cell in the body has electromagnetic fields (EMF), electricity and bio-chemical make-up. Electrical fields carry information data. Each cell contains field data. Each thought field contains data. Albert Szent-Gyorgyi M.D., Nobel Prize laureate, said that "treating humans without concept of energy is treating dead matter".

BIOLOGY BEYOND THE SKIN So when we are exposed to emotional and physical trauma, environmental and electrical toxicity that are really damaging our cells, our body codes and prepares for danger and our adrenals go into flight or fight. According to cell biologist Bruce Lipton, Ph.D., author of The Biology of Belief, the body is digital in nature, it either codes and prepares for danger ie. fear/protection, or for growth, ie. healing/love. The greater the percentage of the body's cells that are in protective mode, the less is available for growth and healing. He clearly shows how our beliefs shape and change our DNA. The body's cells have antennae that receive messages from the environment and our brain.

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When we focus on fear or are exposed to toxins and stress, our body goes into a defence mode and becomes sympathetic dominant. Blood flow is reduced to the frontal cortex and shifted to the more primitive hindbrain. That is why we can't think clearly when we are under stress. If because of our thinking this becomes a chronic state, then our digestion and immune function becomes drastically compromised ,as less and less energy is available to support these functions.

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Eventually, the cellular membrane begins changing the DNA and only coding for those proteins, which support protective function. Vital nutrients such as oxygen, vitamins, minerals and hormones are not able to enter and nourish the cell in sufficient amounts. Toxic waste is not adequately flushed out of the cell. The cell becomes more vulnerable to invasion by microbes. Eventually the cells become toxic, unable to regenerate and malfunction occurs.

these stimuli; nutrient receptors can shut down and prevent healthy assimilation and metabolism. Some people are more vulnerable than others to "electro-pollution", with symptoms ranging from headaches, arthritic pain, insomnia, chest discomfort, arrhythmia, anxiety and depression. I have personally seen and detoxified more patients suffering from the effects of overlooked "electro-pollution" in the past few years of practice.

It becomes critical that we find a way to put the majority of the body's cells into a growth-healing mode, focusing on love versus fear. In doing this, we will quickly move the body into a parasympathetic mode that supports digestion, immune function, healing and hormonal balance.

Nutrient deficiencies are metabolic factors that can cause our cells to pulsate at lower frequencies. Cells lacking CoQ10 or carnitine,for example, expend more cellular energy (ATP) than they can generate, and, over time, pulsation slows. Without magnesium, many enzymatic reactions cannot take place; magnesium deficiency can cause enzymatic stagnation and ATP deficit.

Every year, some 2000 new chemicals will be released on to the market, some not fully tested for their effects on the human body. The effects of these toxins range from immuno-toxicity to endocrine disruption and carcinogenesis. Environmental toxicity is now becoming a new area of study due to its pervasiveness in the world today. Petrochemical toxins, vinyl plastic toxins, heavy- metal toxins and the like put the body under more bio-chemical stress than was thought to be survivable in the recent past. Today, many sufferers of environment illness are written off as psychological cases, and their suffering is discounted in traditional medicine. I believe that these sufferers of environmental illness are the "canaries" of our society. (In olden days, miners would keep canaries in the tunnels to warn them when the air was toxic. The birds would die first, giving the miners a chance to escape with their lives.) Today those individuals suffering with environmental illness are indicating that our environment is becoming too toxic for us to live in and remain healthy unless we take steps to safeguard our energy systems. When cells are exposed to unhealthy toxicity in the form of environmental, metabolic or emotional stress, cells contract and disrupted energy pulsation occurs. Environmental toxins hinder cellular pulsation by generating excess free radicals that destroy cellular structures. With the staggering rise of illnesses such as auto-immune disorders, fibromyalgia, chronic fatigue, multiple sclerosis, Alzheimer’s and autism, there's another invisible factor largely overlooked and often disregarded, which I think will attract much more attention in coming years: the knockdown effect on the body systems delivered by "electro-pollution." This is the chaotic, unseen, and unfelt electromagnetic radiation we are increasingly exposed to from all the man-made electrical fields, generated by everything from high voltage power lines, office and home wiring, wireless networks, computers, cell phones, microwaves and electronic equipment in our daily lives. All combine to weaken the immune system and open the door for chronic inflammation, pain and microbial chaos. This is one of the factors why it is harder for us to clear our infections and why they continue to recur.

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TOXICITY CAN DISRUPT OUR ELECTRICAL CIRCUITRY

These electromagnetic radiations (EMF) bombard our cells with foreign electrical fields (thermal and non-thermal) that disrupt our natural cellular rhythms. Our cells instinctively shrink away from

RESTORING NATURAL CELLULAR PULSATION AND ENERGY Over the past few decades, a new breed of therapy has emerged on the alternative and cosmetic medicine front: bioenergetic technology... non-invasive devices, which transmit therapeutic forms of electromagnetic radiation throughout bodily tissue. Bio-energetic or electro-medicine involves using devices to generate fields of electromagnetic radiation or deliver frequencies in order to improve cell pulsation within the body through such forms as magnetism, electricity, frequencies, heat, and visible light. Lynne McTaggart, author of The Field, describes a research experiment in which a digitalised frequency of the drug heparin was emailed across the United States and then played on a computer with a sound card. The response of pig hearts exposed to the digitalised sound was the same as if they had been injected with the drug itself. This shows that it is the frequency, not the coarse chemical properties that affects healing. I believe people have the built-in homeo-dynamic mechanism to bring about and maintain healing, but that this healing process sometimes becomes dysfunctional due to various forms of interference. This interference may come from being overwhelmed by food or environmental toxins, or it may be due to destructive beliefs, malevolent intentions, malnourishment, chronic negative behaviour patterns, unresolved conflict, trauma, structural misalignment, parasites, virus, bacteria and even iatrogenic causes (bad reactions to inappropriate intervention). Bioenergetic technology is emerging as a valuable tool to prevent and reduce inflammation and boost the body's capability to heal itself as well as for beauty-enhancement purposes. Through heat, electricity (microcurrents), visible light, frequencies and magnetism we can send electrical impulses through the skin to activate cell surface receptors that have lost their electrical conductivity due to injury or stress. Like nutraceuticals, bioenergetic technology can assist the body in regenerating its ATP supply and ultimately facilitate healing by increasing the body's energy. When used together, bioenergetic technology and nutraceuticals can produce profound healing therapeutic results. ㄰

The conductivity of collagen, the protein, which makes up most of our connective tissue, may explain the relative success of microcurrent technology in healing musculo-skeletal tissues and improving skin issues. Whenever you take on electrons to the body (whether it be using grounding, bio-energetics), you make the blood thinner. Hypercoagulable blood or thick viscous blood is the most common cause of heart attacks, strokes, cancers, neuro-degenerative conditions and

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diabetes. There are so many toxins in our blood stream that it becomes thick and viscous. You have to get the blood in a non-toxic state. It basically comes down to the energy of the cell. Certain electrical therapy or any way where you are receiving electrons will do this. Bathing the cells in electrons assists in cellular regeneration and energy. The higher the energy of the cell, the greater the productivity and the more it can thwart off, or put-ff the insults in our environment. That is why bioenergetic medicine works.

HOW CAN YOU CAN HELP YOURSELF

As the earth's surface is abundant with negatively charged free electrons, grounding quenches free radicals. This supply of electrons is constantly replenished by solar radiation and lightning strikes. Through direct contact with the earth. We absorb these electrons through the skin, and neutralise free radical activity within our bodies. I have personally seen my patients dissipate their long-standing chronic pain or inflammation, dramatically improve sleep, energy levels and lessen hormonal symptoms with using EMF protective devices, minimising EMF exposure, using EMF detox salts and regular daily grounding activity. Grounding, like ingesting antioxidants through food, is another one of Nature's protective mechanisms against chronic inflammation and degenerative disease caused by excess free-radical activity. This is why we feel so good going to the beach or on camping holidays when we are sleeping on the ground.

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Free radicals from toxins damage cells by stealing their electrons. Cellular nutrition, toxin drainage and communication all suffer when the extracellular matrix is burdened by toxicity. Detoxification and drainage methods can enable us to clear the extracellular matrix and thus re-establish normal cellular functioning and repair. There are several simple, inexpensive and effective homeopathic and nutrient preparations available, which can assist in promoting the body's elimination functions of the liver, kidney and lymphatic systems, as well as detoxifying cellular structures. How can you discharge electro-pollution from your body naturally? One simple, costless way is just walking barefoot on dirt, sand, grass and unpainted cement. The more time you can spend directly connected flesh to earth the better. Grounding or earthing with bare feet on earth is one of the most primitive and accessible bioenergetic tools available to us. Spend time in the garden with your hands in the soil or bare feet on the ground. Wearing rubber or plastic soled shoes disconnects us from the earth. When you are connected to the earth, either walking or sitting, you are not only discharging accumulated electropollution, but also getting an infusion of activated electrons produced on the surface of the earth from solar radiation. The moment your foot touches the earth your physiology changes. In essence, grounding the body balances the autonomic nervous system by attenuating sympathetic overdrive and normalising the stress hormone cortisol.

Take stock of your phone systems. Consider using the speaker-phone feature on your phones in order to protect your head and all its vital contents. Consider getting EMF phone shield protectors. Remove all electrical equipment and cordless phone units from your bedroom. Turn off or remove the wireless technology from your house. Use corded phones. Be mindful of the exposure that kids in your family may be getting. Researchers believe younger mobile- phone users may face a higher risk of developing tumours because their nervous systems are not fully developed and their skulls are not as thick as those of adults. I was surprised, for instance, when I checked the radiation emanating from a baby monitor. It was really high. Could the frequencies coming out of those monitors affect sleeping babies?

CONCLUSION Perhaps vibrational and electromagnetic frequencies may hold the key to vibrant beauty and optimum health in the future. Bioenergeticsupporting nutrients, regular drainage and detoxification as well as avoidance of toxic EMF and wireless technologies, grounding the body, FIR sauna and the utilisation of very low frequency pulsed electromagnetic waves are just a few of the exciting discoveries that assist the quantum energy of the body. This is the new wisdom that can assist us to not only survive. but thrive in the good vibe/bad vibe technological age. Dr Dzung Price is a holistic integrated medical practitioner with qualifications in Nutrition and Environmental Medicine, Naturopathy, Acupuncture, Bio-energetic Medicine and Homeotoxicology. Using this comprehensive array of healing modalities, cutting edge medical technology and self empowerment solutions, Dzung works to address the root causes of disease and the lack of wellness in her patients. Working closely with a talented team, Dzung's approach is to restore optimal health by removing the obstacles so that the body creates agelessness and wellness in mind, body and spirit through clinics in Brisbane and on the Gold Coast. She is the cofounder of CHI Health Innovations, a company devoted to the provision of bio-energised natural health products for wellness and beauty. www.chihealthinnovations.com. APAN is delighted to present Dr Price at the upcoming expo and educational event NEW HORIZONS IN BEAUTY & WELLNESS in Hervey Bay, Queensland.

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key ingredient because sulfur compounds are found everywhere throughout the body and in nature.

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Sulfur has an indirect importance, because sulfur compounds play a role in many body organs and systems. Sulfur is in the hair, skin, and nails. Many amino acids, the building blocks of protein, have sulfur as a component. Taurine is a sulfur-containing amino acid formed from methionine (2). Taurine stabilises cell membranes (2). Methionine contains sulfur, detoxifies cells, and is involved in pain relief (2). Carnitine comes from methionine and transports long chain fatty acids preventing accumulations of lipoproteins (2). Many B-complex vitamins interact with or contain sulfur. Sulfur is needed for insulin production.

MSM AND ARTHRITIS One current use of MSM is for joint problems, as sulfur is found in and near osseous structures. Sulfur supports healthy muscles, tendons, and ligaments. Arthritic conditions have responded to oral MSM. Some researchers note results from MSM when used for post-exercise muscle pain (1). MSM normalises pressure inside cells and removes toxins. Oregon Health Sciences University has conducted arthritis studies with mice. The mice which received MSM had "no degeneration of articular cartilage" (1). The other non-MSM mice had cartilaginous degeneration. The university has used MSM on over 12,000 patents. Researchers make no claim about MSM as a supplement, but osteoarthritis, rheumatoid arthritis, muscle soreness and muscle pain respond to oral MSM.

MSM - Methylsulfonyl Methane A Basic Essential Nutrient needed for healthy Skin and Body by Tina Viney Have you ever noticed how sometimes the answer to a concern can actually be a very simple thing that may appear unassuming, yet be the catalyst to giving you the answer you were looking for to solve a concern? Working with the skin and body we often seek nutrients we can partner with to bring about positive results to both our skin and body treatments. In this article we look at Methylsulfonyl Methane, or more commonly known as MSM, and the role it plays in a healthy skin and body. As most good things are already present in the body MSM is no exception, even though it can be supplemented for added benefit. Methylsulfonyl Methane is a relatively new dietary supplement form of sulfur that is found in our living tissues. MSM supports healthy connective tissues like tendons, ligaments, and muscle. Thus, it is important in conditions such as arthritis, muscle pains, bursitis, etc. MSM should be considered an integral part of any healthcare practice because of its physiological action, indirect importance, and current / future uses.

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To understand MSM, some background information is necessary. MSM is a "naturally-occurring nutrient found in normal human diets". It gets into the diet through the sulfur cycle. Ocean plankton release sulfur compounds which rise into the ozone where ultra-violet light makes MSM and DMSO. DMSO, dimethyl sulfoxide, is a precursor to MSM. MSM and DMSO return to the surface of the earth in rain (1). Plants concentrate MSM and return it to the earth and the sea. Evaporation into the air results in their return to the earth (1). MSM has a unique action on body tissues. It decreases the pressure inside the cell. In removing fluids and toxins, sulfur affects the cell membrane. MSM is an organic form of sulfur, whereas sulfites in foodstuffs are inorganic. Sue Williams states "sulfur is present in all cells" and is in the form of "organic compounds throughout the body' (2). However, sulfur can be found in the body in sulfate forms. It forms sulfate compounds with sodium, potassium, magnesium, and selenium. MSM has a significance,

One research confirmed that MSM is as safe as water. One should drink extra water with MSM use. There are other dietary factors to consider. Avoiding nightshade plants has helped arthritis patients (tomatoes / potatoes / green pepper/eggplant). Biotin and vitamin C help the body assimilate MSM. Biotin and vitamin C are found in fresh fruits. Eating fresh fruits while taking MSM could be helpful. In addition to arthritis, it may have other future uses. Dr. Stanley Jacob believes that most people are deficient in sulfur (1). Insulin synthesis depends upon sulfur. Many vitamins require or contain sulfur. Some researchers claim it has many future uses such as in allergies (1). A good MSM product is both safe and effective. The MSM source for MSM supplements is often lignin from pine trees. Lignin is a molecule in plants that is part of a plant's cell wall. Lignin oxidation in oak wine barrels results in the vanilla flavours of wines. The pine tree lignin is an ideal source for a good MSM product. For those who do not want to take MSM as a supplement, food sources of sulfur are as follows: sunflower seeds, garlic, lentils, soybeans, and yogurt. Persons with kidney problems or recurrent kidney stones may not want to take MSM. Certain renal tubular defects can make a person susceptible to recurrent kidney stones (2). Other kidney defects include errors of metabolism in which processing of sulfur amino acids is altered (2). Such persons may wish to avoid MSM. One thousand to three thousand milligrams per day is a typical dosage range, but some people take well above that amount. This author takes MSM alone. From the cell walls of pine trees to the cells of the human body, a good MSM supplement can contribute to good health. Conditions that have reportedly responded positively to MSM supplements include Arthritis

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Acne Allergies Skin damage and ageing Fragile hair and nails Ulcers Migraine headaches Muscles pain and cramps Parasites

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Asthma Candida Yeast Infections Toxic Build-up Carpal Tunnel Syndrome Chronic Fatigue Constipation Diabetes Digestive Disorders

A body made up of healthy, flexible cells, will not only feel better, it will look better too. The body is continuously at work replacing old, workout cells with new ones. The process goes on 24 hours a day, seven days a

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APJ 76


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week, without stop. When all the raw materials needed for cell-building are available, it is a very efficient process. When there are deficiencies, the new cells may be weak, rigid or deformed. One of the most important raw materials for building healthy new cells is MSM.

MSM FOR RELIEF OF PAIN AND INFLAMMATION ㈵

Approximately half of the total body sulfur is concentrated in the muscles, skin and bones. One of the most significant uses of MSM as a supplement is its demonstrated ability to relieve pain and inflammation. When rigid fibrous tissue cells swell and become inflamed, pressure and pain result. Since MSM can restore flexibility and permeability to cell walls, fluids can pass through the tissues more easily. This helps equalise pressure and reduce or eliminate the cause of pain. Harmful substances such as lactic acid and toxins are allowed to flow out, while nutrients are permitted to flow in. This prevents the pressure build-up in cells that causes inflammation. (1) MSM has shown a remarkable ability to reduce or eliminate muscle soreness and cramps both in geriatric patients and in athletes. It's even given to racehorses before a race to prevent muscle soreness, and afterward to reduce the risk of cramping. People with arthritis report substantial and long-lasting relief with MSM supplements. Taken along with glucosamine, a key substance in the process of rebuilding cartilage, MSM can relieve pain and help repair worn or damaged cartilage in joints, ligaments and tendons with healthy, flexible new cells. (1)

HOW DOES MSM WORK? MSM makes cell walls permeable, allowing water and nutrients to freely flow into cells and allowing wastes and toxins to properly flow out. The body uses MSM along with Vitamin C to create new, healthy cells, and MSM provides the flexible bond between the cells. Without proper levels of MSM, our bodies are unable to build good healthy cells. This can lead to problems such as lost flexibility, scar tissue, wrinkles, varicose veins, hardened arteries, damaged lung tissues, dry cracking skin, digestive disorders, joint problems, and inability to defend against allergic reactions to food, animals and plants. MSM is an anti-oxidant that helps to clean the blood stream and flush toxins trapped in our cells. It is also a foreign protein and free radical scavenger. In order to maintain good health, we need to supplement our diets with MSM, to enable the body to heal itself. The body uses what it needs, and after 12 hours will flush out any excess amounts.

THE BEAUTY MINERAL FOR HAIR, SKIN AND NAILS

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Sulfur has been called nature's "beauty mineral" because it is needed to keep the hair glossy and smooth and keeps the complexion clear and youthful. It is needed for synthesis of collagen and is prevalent in keratin, a tough protein substance necessary for health and maintenance of the skin, nails and hair. MSM is responsible for the flexible disulfide bonds between cells, including those that make up the skin. It blocks undesirable chemical and physical cross-linking or bonding of collagen, which is associated with tough, ageing skin. Consequently MSM enhances tissue pliability and encourages repair of damaged skin. If there is insufficient sulfur in the body when new cells are being manufactured, the new cells will be rigid. This rigidity can contribute to cracking, wrinkling and unsightly scar tissue. When sufficient sulfur is present for new cells, the skin is softer, smoother and more flexible. MSM provides that sulfur. This is why we are now seeing MSM included in skincare formulations. Acne, including the severe acne rosacea, responds favourably to MSM supplements. Adequate sulfur and vitamin C are also needed for healing. When the body is deficient in these nutrients, the new tissue will be elevated leaving an unattractive, raised scar. Because MSM makes the skin more permeable and pliant, it can also help prevent blistering and promote faster healing from sunburn or wind damage. With MSM supplements, nails show not only an increase in growth rate, but also increased toughness and resistance to chipping and cracking. This effect has been seen both in human nails and horses hoofs.

ALLERGENS, TOXINS AND PARASITES Flexible, permeable cells are also important in that they allow toxins, allergens and foreign substances to be flushed out of the body more easily . When skin cells are soft and permeable, many toxins can be eliminated through the sweat glands, which takes some of the load off the liver and kidneys. While MSM is not a cure for allergies, supplementation may reduce symptoms by allowing allergens to be removed from the body more quickly. Even reactions to insect bites, poison ivy and poison oak are less severe when the diet is supplemented with MSM. Vitamin C is also synergistic in this application in that it can lower histamine levels. MSM has also shown amazing anti-parasitic action against Giardia, Trichomonas, roundworms, nematodes, Enterobius and other intestinal worms. When parasites attach themselves to the intestinal lining, they can live, reproduce and rob the body of nutrients indefinitely. MSM blocks parasites by competing for receptor sites on the mucous membrane. When parasites can not attach themselves, they are simply flushed out of the system.

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The same is true with food allergens. MSM coats mucosal surfaces and occupies the binding sites that could otherwise be used by challenging food allergens. It can also bind with offending agents to produce harmless substances, which are then excreted from the body. This facilitates normal digestion and assimilation and allows the body to get maximum nutritional value from foods that would otherwise cause a reaction. Individuals who experience an allergic response to certain foods have reported improved or complete tolerance to those foods when they take MSM supplements. Healthy flexible colon tissues along with improved digestion can also relieve constipation.

DIABETES Sulfur is also a component of insulin, the hormone that regulates carbohydrate metabolism and insufficient sulfur may result in decreased insulin production. It is also possible that a lack of bio-available sulfur would make the cells so rigid and impermeable that they become unable to absorb sugar from the blood efficiently, leaving blood sugar levels elevated. Studies indicate that regular MSM supplements, which cause the cell to become permeable, could help balance blood sugar and allow the overworked pancreas to return to normal.

WHY SUPPLEMENTS? Since sulfur is present in every cell of every living thing, it might seem that we would get plenty of this essential mineral from dietary sources and should not need supplements, but that may not be the case. Meat, poultry, fish, eggs and dairy products are the main sources of dietary sulfur, but we have been advised to restrict or remove many of those foods from our diets. Vegetarians, especially those who do not eat eggs, are at particular risk for sulfur deficiency. Plant cells contain sulfur but not in abundant quantities and much of the MSM present in unprocessed foods is lost in washing, cooking or steaming. And, of course, MSM levels decline noticeably with age - doesn't everything? So, the older you get, the more important it becomes to maintain adequate sulfur levels in the body.

USAGE AND TOXICITY Due to its positive effects, particularly in maintaining healthy cell formation, 2,000 to 6,000 mg. of supplemental MSM daily is recommended. Of course, the optimum daily dosage of MSM depends largely on body size, age and the nature and severity of any deficiency symptoms you may be experiencing. Since vitamin C provides a positive synergistic it should be taken along with MSM. MSM ranks in the "extremely low" toxicity category with a toxicity profile similar to that of water. When oral supplements are taken, the body will distribute MSM where it is needed. After about 12 hours, any excess amounts will be flushed out of the body. MSM, a member of the sulfur family, should never be confused with sulfa drugs, to which some people are allergic. (Full list of references available on request).

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Contact the Editor for copy of references to this article.

APJ 77


cosmetic tattoo ㄰ 㤵 㜵

Cosmetic tattoo is such a growing profession and as we are getting more members including this as part of their services we asked Val Glover-Hovan to share with us some of her vast knowledge.

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Val is respected internationally as a master practitioner in cosmetic tattoo and as a leading educator. For over 25 years she has been faithfully committed to this profession and is constantly in high demand. In her clinic in Sydney she performs approximately 35 procedures each week, with one of her intern practitioners performing around 20, so she has a great deal to offer in terms of experience and knowledge.

In this article we ask her which procedure is the most popular in cosmetic tattooing. I would have to say that "eyebrow enhancement" would have to be the most popular procedure. In my practice most of the clients are over 40. This is the age group when woman who have either overplucked their brows, have thinned out eyebrows, or lost the ends of their brows due to the ageing process will seek the benefit of cosmetic tattooing. Another reason is when their failing eyesight makes it difficult, or sometimes impossible, for them to pencil in an even shape. Many who suffer from arthritis find it painful to hold their arm up, and the list is endless. I have clients from 40 to 80 years of age who work hard to look their very best, and a perfect eyebrow can do wonders to improve their appearance. There are also several medical conditions such as alopecia where they lose all their eyebrows that gain

Achieving Eyebrow Perfection with Cosmetic Tattoo by Val Glover Hovan ㄰ 㤵 㜵

a great deal of self-esteem knowing that cosmetic tattooing can greatly restore their appearance.

UNDERTAKING THE PROCEDURE The primary goal of a cosmetic tattoo practitioner is to focus on designing the eyebrows based on the individual's unique facial morphology. This is the key to customising flattering eyebrows. Designing eyebrows for clients will come easier for some practitioners than for others. Those who have had to draw their own eyebrows for years have an advantage of being skilled in the practice

of eyebrow shaping. Furthermore, if they are in the beauty industry and their services include designing, shaping and waxing eyebrows they will find it much easier to advise clients on the correct shape for their facial shape and bone structure, and they will be able to draw beautiful eyebrows for them. If a client normally applied eyebrow pencil or designs the brows themselves daily and arrives at her appointment saying "I love my eyebrows this way, this is how I want to have them tattooed", then you most likely have your template already set out for you. Perfectionists often take up to 20 minutes to get them right, so having them tattooed

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APJ 66


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for them is a great relief and a great timesaver. Now it will be up to the practitioner to select the most suitable colour and style of tattoo suitable for her. If you have difficulty drawing eyebrows another option is the use of Brow Templates. These are cut out in different shapes into a plastic strip. They are attached to a band which is then strapped around the forehead so that you place the brow shapes where they will be best suited then you pencil or powder the shape in. Using these takes a litte time and practice. Another successful tool is using Calipens, which is a measuring device. For accurate design work and to achieve successful eyebrows it is important to have a thorough understanding of facial muscles that affect the eyebrows, as there are many challenges. For example, you will often find that a client will have a tendency to raise one eyebrow more than the other. She has developed a habit of using the outer frontalis muscle that can lead to wrinkles being formed in the lateral part of the forehead. Observations such as these must be made. Ask the client to close her eyes, then raise her brows, relax her face, while you the artist gain a better understanding as to how her muscles are working and gain a better idea where the placement of the eyebrows should be drawn to accommodate any adjustments.

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and many functions is important, not only for our cosmetic tattooing results, but also for the safety and proficient wound management for our clients.

TECHNIQUES There are many different techniques in creating beautiful eyebrows.

BLOCK The most common is the PENCILLED/BLOCK or SOLID eyebrow technique. Here colour is tattooed into the skin leaving no skin showing through, resulting in an all-over colour.

HAIRSTROKE Another technique is the HAIRSTROKE/FEATHERED/ EMBROIDERY/HAIR SIMULATION technique. In this instance

UNDERSTANDING ANATOMY

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As professionals, we must also have a working knowledge of the different layers of the skin. The skin has different layers that all provide a particular function. It is made up of multiple layers of cells and is the largest organ in the body that acts as a barrier to protect the internal environment of the body against potentially harmful factors. The skin is the major player in the tattooing profession. In many instances it will dictate needle configurations, machine speed, pigment colour selection and will also influence how soon your client will need a follow-up appointment. Because the skin is the canvas on which and within you will be performing your procedure, understanding its structure

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APJ 79


colour is tattooed into the skin in small strokes following the shape of the drawn brow, shape and line of the natural hair. A combination of colours can also be used to create a three-dimensional look that gives the eyebrow the appearance of volume.

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COMBINATION There is a third technique where you can use a combination of SOLID COLOUR and HAIR STROKES. This gives a beautiful tattooed brow. At the first visit a light colour is tattooed into the shape of the eyebrow, then at a follow-up or adjustment visit hair strokes can be applied, with a third visit often also needed to perfect the technique.

SHAPING This is when someone who has sparse eyebrows (even if they have a good shape) needs a background colour to define them. As a professional cosmetic tattooist you should have a good colour selection of pigment lotions, from the lightest blonde (cool and warm) to the darkest browns, taupe and brown/blacks. A skilfully performed eyebrow tattooing procedure can give the whole face a lift, especially the eye area, and can often take years off someone's face. Clients are so much happier waking up with their eyebrows in place, or going swimming or to the hairdressers knowing that any water will not smudge or remove their eyebrows. They now have a shape to follow if they want to add extra depth. In fact some have commented that they feel like they have had a facelift with the end result.

COLOUR CORRECTION FOR EYEBROWS When working with colour correction minor changes can make all the difference, but here you must have an extremely good understanding of not only your colours, but also how they will interact with the client's skin colour. This is why updating your education is so important in this profession. There are certain aspects of your work that you can only fully grasp once you have mastered the basics. Further training needs to be layered on an ongoing basis as it is amazing what you will continue to learn. After over 25 years in this profession I continue to invest in my education and this knowledge collectively has contributed to me building a highly successful practice through a good reputation. When undertaking a corrective procedure from another practitioner it could be possible that it was never explained to the client that the colour may not stay the same and may fade with time. All colours fade, no matter where they are placed — hair, clothing they all fade out over time and cosmetic tattooing is no exception. This is why if it is not kept refreshed every couple of years it will fade and may leave a residue in the skin of either grey, orange, red or purple — all this can be colour corrected by an experienced cosmetic tattoo professional. In the next issue of APJ I will be discussing the all-important issue of colour and rules to effective colour selection as well as what is "buyer's remorse" and how to avoid it. ㄰

Val Glover-Hovan is a multi-award winner and renowned internationally for her techniques and teaching methods in cosmetic tattoo. Val will be speaking at the New Horizons in Beauty & Wellness Expo and Educational event to be held in Hervey Bay on the 21st November 2010. For further details visit www.apanetwork.com

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Val can be contacted for training advice or supplies on 1300 88 66 55 or sales@hovansgroup.com.au or vist www.hovansgroup.com.au

APJ 80


SPOTLIGHT ON PRODUCTS

Skeyndor has Christmas all wrapped up Skeyndor has put together three impressively packaged and divine gift sets sure to sparkle and shine under the Christmas tree this year. To have the girls staying glam, the exquisite Skeyndor Eternal Gift Box trio featuring Eternal Serum, Icy Eye Cream and Cream, or from the fabulous Skeyndor Corrective line Serum and Cream packed in a chic carry bag. These products offer the very latest in skincare technology and are exquisitely presented as the essential luxury item that every woman would dream of. And to spruce up the man in their life the Skeyndor Men Executive Set tote containing Redness Preventing After Shave, Shine Control 24h Aqua Emulsion and Energizing Anti-Age Serum. Clients can spoil themselves or that special someone with the Skeyndor gift packs for everyone on the Christmas list. To find out more please email

info@vogueimage.com.au or call 1 800 554 545 or (03) 9821 0033.

BIOMIXYL 5000 for effective stimulation of collagen IV ㄰ 㤵 㜵

ROSACTIVE presents an advanced and effective treatment BIOMIXYL 5000 based on nano-proteins, which stimulates the natural production of Collagen IV. Specific composition of nano-molecules makes BIOMIXYL 5000 the most advanced treatment in ingredient delivery to the dermal matrix, thus supporting cell regeneration. In just a few treatments the skin will regain a fresher, more hydrated youthful appearance. Rosactive is formulated to provide the professional aestheticians with treatments that will enhance and improve any skin condition, ensuring that through client satisfaction you will grow a loyal and committed clientele. For more information contact ROSACTIVE. Phone: 02 9567 6485 Email:

Skin Hydrating Tonic by Synthesis345 was formulated to quench and revive the skin with essential nutrients leaving it hydrated and radiant. It includes readily absorbed Bio-Hyaluronate ferment algal, Papaya extract, Magnesium and Zinc ferment to hydrate, reduce the appearance of fine lines, improve tone and brighten the skin, minimising the appearance of pigmentation. Pure Organic Jasmine Absolute provides a delightfully refreshing and exotic aroma. For further information

info@rosactive.com.au

Phone: 02 6672 3454, 0400 345 148 or visit www.synthesis345.com

First Blush of Spring Certified Organic Skin Hydrating Tonic

APJ 81


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Beauty Feet™ The ultimate and easiest solution to flawless feet!

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Beauty Feet™ has been developed to assist in revealing flawless feet to meet the demands of hectic schedules in today’s society. It is the most convenient and hassle-free way to take your feet back in time – the time when you were a child. Beauty Feet™ is scientifically proven effective, manufactured and tested to the utmost precision to assist in the prevention and treatment of dry calluses caused by excessive day-to-day friction. Unlike any product on the market it prevents callus build-up without scrubbing, filing, sanding, scrapping or applying heel balms, which may lead to additional calluses after skin regeneration. These socks are filled with liquid solutions for the ultimate beautifying effect. The simple to follow steps will take off chapped layers of unwanted skin in no time! Beauty Feet™ is Australia’s first to prevent and treat calluses, based on the concept of natural skin peeling. The same principle applies in nature with animals and plants when they shed their own skin - the natural way. Ingredients in Beauty Feet™ are organically derived from nature.

Please quote the promotional code “APJ0168” to redeem your special introductory offer from BeautWise™: Buy 12 get 1 FREE. Buy 24 get 3 FREE (while stocks last). 07 3012 9494 enquiries@beautwise.com.au

SPECIALS for Exquisitely Designed Uniforms

3-in-1 Fat Free Body Dressing Cheffresh have developed a wonderful moisturising Body Moisturiser that is 98% fat free. 3 in 1 Fat Free Body Dressing contains cucumber extract as well as fig extract that is multi-purpose. You can apply to towel dry skin after daily shower or bath. Use as a makeup remover or apply generously as a mask. Leave for 10 minutes and remove. Excellent also for problematic or oily skin types. Other active ingredients include Aloe Vera Gel, 20 of the 22 essential known amino acids, vitamin C as well as green tea. The moisturising properties found in figs are similar to those in our skin, which makes it an excellent skin hydrator. When skin is well hydrated it appears fuller and tighter. Rich in vitamin A and beta-carotene, fig extract has also a powerful enzymatic exfoliating action. For this and other

Having your staff comfortable and stylish can substantially improve your salon's image and your staff's self-confidence. Vorei Design are considered one of our industry's leading uniform designers, committed to manufacturing uniforms Cheffresh products phone 02 9550 1277. that are stylish, comfortable and of the highest quality. They can design to suit your salon's needs and even offer you a point of difference to ensure that you and your staff are not only comfortable, but always look their very best. There are currently excellent SPECIALS, so this is the time to consider updating those uniforms in time for a brand-new year.

P h o n e Vo r e i D e s i g n s 0 8 9 2 0 9 3 2 9 9 , e m a i l sales@voreidesigns.com.au or visit www.voreidesigns.com.au ㄰

New product release from MiSMo

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Anti-Wrinkle Cream with Vitamin C and Hyaluronic Acid is the latest creation from the Australian made and owned MiSMo skincare range. A high-grade formulation that contains a unique complex of vitamins A, C and E combined with Hyaluronic Acid and Olive Squalene to deliver excellent anti-ageing benefits. VCIP or Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate is the Vitamin C used for stability and performance. MiSMo Anti-wrinkle Cream with Vitamin C and Hyaluronic Acid may be used with the MiSMo ACE Vitamin C Serum for maximum benefits from sun damage. Perfect for use before and after cosmetic procedures. Excellent to soften scars. Testimonials are available on request. WSP $39.00, and RRP $69.95 making it affordable for everyone.

Phone MiSMo on 07 3849 2038.

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APJ 82


Cheffresh Face Diet – Food for the skin that is good enough to eat If you are looking for a quality pure, natural product with a unique twist to it you cannot go past Cheffresh Skincare. Developed by two charming executive chefs who are equally meticulous about what goes into their skincare as they are in their cooking. Face Diet is a range of basic essentials consisting of cleanser, toner and two moisturisers for day and night. They include Kakadu Plum and Lilli Pilli Face Cleanser, Watercress & Green Apple Spritzer Toner, Pumpkin and Carrot Seed Face Salad, Café Latte Day Moisturiser and Night Time Recipe Moisturiser. Pure, fresh and delicious, these products will impress those who are serious about purity, as well as those who love to adventure into something different. Available in bulk sizes for professional use, as well as for retail sales. A sure seller for a unique Christmas gift and a great product for spas, salons and home-based businesses as no large opening order needed. Phone Cheffresh on 02 9550 1277.

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Accessorise with Enhance by Natural Compatibles Enhance by Natural Compatibles versatile range of makeup has recognised and met women's individual needs when it comes to selecting colours and the makeup tools needed for makeup application. Their large compact will carry a combination of eye shadows, eyeliners and blushers with space to include your brushes as well. Also available is a mini compact designed to fit into a pocket or your evening bag. This elegant mirrored compact will hold a combination of four different colours plus Enhance by Natural Compatibles' mini brushes. These easy to carry compacts are the ultimate in environmentally friendly packaging, allowing you to interchange and refill your colours while using the one compact. Enhance by Natural Compatibles mini compact RRP $11.00 and large compact RRP $17.00. Contact Enhance by

Natural Compatibles 1800 636 077 or visit www.natural compatibles.com.au

Banish cellulite with Beauty Mouse®

Taking care of the skin with MiSMo Mineral Makeup

Developed by the manufacturers of Dermaroller's Beauty Mouse is a unique instrument with several benefits. It helps stimulate the skin, improve microcirculation and helps to enhance the penetration of active substances into deeper layers of the skin. A device specifically designed to help prevent and treat cellulite Beauty Mouse is listed as a medical device on the Australian Register of Therapeutic Goods (ARTG). It incorporates three dermaroller heads and a total of 480 micro-needles, which help deliver ingredients deeper into the skin as well as stimulate it through a painless procedure due to the fineness of the needles. For details

MiSMo has just formulated an excellent range of Mineral Makeup to complement their skin care range. Providing excellent sun protection through a Titanium and Zinc Oxide base with no Talc, Nanos or irritating ingredients makes this makeup the perfect companion to their quality skincare. A professional range of brushes has also been developed for precision and ease of application. Smaller clinics and salons are welcome with no minimum opening order requirement. Phone MiSMo 07 3849 2038.

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contact Sean Able at Clinic Care 0425 344 944.

APJ 83


You Can Make More Money In Your Business, Right Now! Simply by giving gifts away

EFG/DNA Recovery Concentrate

Every business needs new clients and one of the best methods of attracting new customers is through referrals from existing happy customers. After all, you want to attract more people just like them. Here’s how: ! Your staff needs to ask for referrals – make it easy for them ! You need to provide your clients with something worthwhile with your details on it to pass on to their friends. ! You need to say “thank you” every time you receive a referral to encourage the client to continue to talk about you. 4CP makes this easy with several affordable eye-catching promotional products perfect for keeping in your purse to be seen every day. Your staff could be handing out fabulous items like those pink nail files, complete with your salon details for as little as 99¢ each. Just a single facial referral more than covers the cost of several dozen. Your clients and all their friends will love them and your business will grow. For further details and to order

This advanced formulation is a must for restoring skin repair after clinical strength peels, needling and other conditions that traumatise the skin. EFG/DNA Recovery Concentrate specifically targets the ultimate health of the cell's telomeres to slow down the ageing process and re-train the skin to function as if it were younger. Blocks hyperpigmentation receptors and reduces melanin production, stabilising telomeres. Skin regains its strength and vitality. Contact SCHE Australia 1800 628 999

contact 4CP Promotional Products & Graphic Design Ph: 07 5442 3341 Email: wayne@4cp.com.au or www.4cp.com.au

www.clincalskincare.com.au

Cherry Berry Enzyme 10% and 20% Strengths CSHE has just released two new generation treatment peels for skin renewal, available in two strengths 10% for active acne skin and 20% for acne scars and dull sun-damaged skin. Cherry Berry Enzyme peels are rich in powerful antioxidants such as wild cherry bark extract, sour cherry extract, red grape seed, blueberry and pomegranate extract, and fortified with pineapple enzymes, glycuronic acid, malic and salicylic acid. These powerful peels strengthen collagen, reduce the appearance of ageing and soothe and calm the skin from irritation, while improving skin texture and tone. For further information contact CSHE

Australia 1800 628 999 or visit clinicalskincare.com.au

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Conceal imperfection with a Perfect Touch Conceal your skin imperfections and dark circles around the eye area with precision using Enhance by Natural Compatibles' "Perfect Touch Concealer". Just released in Europe and a first for Australia. Perfect Touch Concealer delivers a fast-drying and superior staying power concealer with precise application. The unique spring-loaded action ensures the applicator is always loaded up and colour-ready, providing a seamless application tool. Containing minerals such as titanium dioxide, which acts as a powerful natural sunscreen, reflecting light away from the eye area and leaving a flawless finish to the skin. Beeswax and Carnauba wax add emollients with soothing and softening properties, which help the skin to retain moisture and ensures a smooth application each time. Available in 5 shades Tan, Beige, Ivory, Anti Red, Natural. RRP $30.00. Contact

Enhance by Natural Compatibles 1800 636 077 or visit www.naturalcompatibles.com.au


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Nourishing EXTRACT for fast exfoliation of Cream & ingrown hair, spots, pimples, Rejuvenating razor bumps and burns Gel with the EXTRACT offers more active ingredients to exfoliate extra simultaneously at different depths and contains high-grade support of lavender oil and other actives that work synergistically. MSM Extract is specifically formulated for both men and women for faster results. Supported with national advertising campaigns in popular health magazines, Extract is priced to sell quickly at under $20.00. Easy to use simply roll on when needed for great results. Clients simply love the price and with great markups, salons simply love the profit!

More info can be found at www.extractit.com.au or JMR Australia Phone: 02 9966-0250.

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The health benefits of the nutrient mineral MSM are scientifically well-documented (see page 76 for further details). In fact, the whole MiSMo skincare range is founded on the mineral MSM. Natural ingredients are fused with actives to produce visible results quickly through the cellpenetrating capabilities of MSM. Nourishing Cream and Rejuvenating Gel are two of the best sellers and both contain large amounts of MSM. These Australian-made creams and gels multi task because of their purity and efficacy. Excellent for all skin types and conditions, including sensitive, rosacea and sun-damaged skin, they have proven clinical use and an incredible reputation. Rejuvenating Gel's main ingredient is Hyaluronic Acid. No

minimum opening order. Phone 07 3849 2038 email irene@mismo.com.au or www.mismo.com.au

Magnesium Oil Spritz Natural Body Care

IONIC FOOT SPA AND DETOX PATCHES ㄰ 㤵 㜵

With summer on our doorstep this is a great time to fortify your detox program with a very pleasurable and beneficial Ionic Foot Spa. You can now not only offer a pleasurable hydrotherapy treatment, but also assist in the elimination of toxins through the negatively charged ions in the water. The Ionic Foot Spa's gentle vibrations further aid in the release of unwanted toxins. For additional support to a detoxification program you should also introduce Detox Patches that contain cleansing Chinese herbs and can be applied while you sleep. They will improve sleep, increase energy and vitality and promote a feeling of wellbeing. Each box contains 10 patches and may be promoted as part of a detox and wellness program. To order your Ionic Foot Spa and Detox Patches contact Hair Health & Beauty Solutions Phone 0411 266 653 info@advancedskinbeauty.com.au

Elektra Magnesium is a trusted brand for high-quality Transdermal Magnesium Flakes and Magnesium Butter, which are available both for salon use as well as for retail. Now the company has launched a new product Elektra Magnesium Oil Spritz. Available in 125 ml bottles and with a 61.8% concentration it offers a wonderful new way to benefit from this very important mineral. Containing also essential oils of juniper berry, rosalina and mandarin, it provides an easy and pleasurable way of using it, and of course introducing it to your clients. Elektra Magnesium Oil Spritz can be used as a deodorant or a refreshing spray on the body after showering, offering a convenient way of boosting the body's mineral reserves. It can be also introduced before a massage or body treatment, and offers great benefits when used during detox wraps or slimming treatments. For just $4.95 ($9.90 RRP) it is a great complement to the magnesium cream and flakes.

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For further details phone Elektra Magnesium 07 5533 1088 www.elektralife.com

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GORGEOUS EYES

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Without eyelash-enhancing treatments you have a major income opportunity lost. However, only the best quality will keep your clients coming back. Hovan's Group pride themselves as the leaders in the market when it comes to lash-enhancing products as well as their famous Hovan's BikiniSaver® and Hovan's Gold® for the prevention and treatment of in-grown hair.

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For stronger, longer lashes Heavenly Curls Eyelash Enhancer really performs, offering superior results to other products on the market.

Heavenly Eyelash Perming Kit offers will supply you with another revenue stream for your business that will leave your clients delighted. This procedure will gently and effectively curl lashes making them more defined day-in-day-out.

Heavenly Curls Eyelash Extension Kit has everything you need to create the perfect eyelashes that will beautify and enliven any eyes making them look younger.

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With the festive season coming up are you positioned to offer the best service? With Hovan's products you can achieve excellent results each and every time.

Contact Hovan's Group 1300 88 66 55, Email: sales@hovansgroup.com.au or visit www.hovansgroup.com.au

APJ 86


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INDIO Launches new Vitamin A Serum with Stem Cells and peptide technology Vitamin A with Grape stem cell technology is an outstanding age fighter that contains wrinkle-relaxing Te t r a p e p t i d e - 7 , r e t i n y l palmitate and sphingolipids and is a high-strength and potent serum designed for all skin types. Encapsulated technology designed to deliver the best possible results available on the market today. Call industry only 02 9669 6858 to receive a free sample and see the results for yourself. www.indioskincare.com

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SEASONAL GIFT VOUCHERS Have you ordered your Christmas Gift Vouchers from APAN yet? We have a selection of high-quality cards that also make attractive postcards for clients to include as a gift. Attractively presented they are inviting. By displaying them you can encourage sales, especially at this time of the year. Visit www.apanetwork.com and view the complete range of 10 designs the more your order the cheaper they become. Order now until Christmas and receive a10% discount. Contact APAN 07 5593 0360 or email

info@apanetwork.com

2B BIO-PEEL A VERY SPECIAL OFFER in thanks to Australian Salons ㄰ 㤵 㜵

2B Bio-Peel is known for its product excellence and in particular the incredible skin-resurfacing 100% natural herbal peel that achieves amazing results with stubborn conditions with acne, pigmentation and ageing skin. 2B BIO-PEEL in thanking Australian salons for making 2B such a successful skin-treatment tool and in particular an acne buster. The company is extending a GREAT SPECIAL to all salons that purchase 1 box of 30 peels plus 1 Prep Lotion normally $488.50 for just $350. This offer is strictly for this AD ONLY quote APJ 7 to qualify. This investment will return your salon $7,600 (calculated on 45 treatments x $170 per peeling treatment to your client). The cost to you will only be $7.77 per sachet. To take advantage of this special

Certified Organic First Love Regenerative Elixir

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If you are looking for a blissful-feeling product with incredible skinregenerating capabilities you cannot go past Synthesis345 Regenerative Elixir. Just one drop delivers vitality, energy and youthful radiance. Bioactive ingredients uplift, renew and nurture. Your first encounter will be with the miraculous properties of pure organic Rose Otto, followed by the rich depth of Pomegranate, Passionfruit, Rosehip, Sandalwood and harmonising Fragonia. Vitamins C, A, B, D and E and EFAs invigorate the skin and defend it against A E S T H E T I C S the signs of ageing. For further information phone: 02 6672 3454,

o f f e r p h o n e PAT O U DISTRIBUTION on 07 4057 8365 or 0419 665 383.

0400 345 148 or visit www.synthesis345.com

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new technology

The Use of Biofeedback Electromagnetic Energy in Therapeutic Treatments by Terry Everitt This edition of the journal has a number of articles and references that arose from the recent conference in Anti-Ageing and Aesthetic Medicine "PREVENTION — The Future of Health and Medicine" hosted by the AustralAsian Academy of Anti-Ageing Medicine (A5M). One of the workshops at the conference involved electromagnetic fields, which used in this context, causes a rapid response in a patient's atomistic structure. It can be said that energy is the basis of life. The body is a mass of energy and most of this is electromagnetic. The nervous system is the first thought where this is totally evident. This system runs on electric impulses caused by chemical movement — atoms are in constant change and flow, thus providing electrical impulse. Primarily, Western medicine for the past few millenniums has been based in chemical energy models, while Eastern medicine to a large extent has been based in electromagnetic energy — Chakras and meridian points and the flow of energy in and around the body. While Western medicine accepts the use of electromagnetic energy use at high levels, there is much scepticism about using the same energy at much lower levels. One area of medical healthcare delivery, the anti-ageing specialty, is awake to this possibility and is not ignoring the importance of specific electromagnetic fields that help restore body functions. While electromagnetic energy is nothing new, the workshop information did present a number of new options in the armamentarium available to the anti-ageing practitioner in patient treatment. When you speak of electricity you automatically speak of magnetism since one cannot exist without the other. To oversimplify decades of physics research: Ampére's Law – Electricity gives rise to magnetism and conversely, Faraday's Law of Induction – Magnetism gives rise to electric currents. It was postulated at the workshop, hosted by *ONDAMED, that since the body is mostly electric (or energy-based), why, then, are we not treating tissue with stimulating energy fields?

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The externally applied electromagnetic energy you are most familiar with is medical X-rays and more recently Magnetic Resonance Imaging has been used to rearrange the hydrogen atoms in order to view a specific picture from the inside of the body. The electrical currents from the heart, brain, muscles, and by other tissues and organs give rise to electric fields that are measurable at the surface of the body. These fields are used in medical diagnosis and are well known and commonly accepted. The most well-known example of how the different current strength is measured is via an electrocardiogram. On the other hand, an electroencephalogram measures the activity in the brain and an electromyogram measures electrical activity in the muscles. Imagine if we could use the same type of energy, although in a much reduced manner and frequency, to scan the body, creating magnetic resonance to identify the areas requiring medical intervention, noninvasively with a field that is a million times lower than MRI technology.

BIOFEEDBACK This in fact is what is happening now, and in a way you may already know of it as a type of biofeedback. Biofeedback acts as a kind of sixth sense, allowing patients to "see" or "hear" what is going on inside their body. Once the patient has been made aware of imbalances, the body automatically begins to correct them. Without going into the technical details (although a good database search will bring up countless studies), biofeedback: ! Can be used to interact with a wide variety of physiological systems ! Has demonstrated safety and effectiveness for treating a wide variety of clinical conditions ! Encourages the patient and practitioner to work as a team to locate and become aware of areas of imbalance "The fundamental discovery that most physiological processes previously thought to be regulated automatically (autonomic nervous


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system) can now be regulated consciously if the processes can be brought to awareness via appropriate measurements. These appropriate measures are via electromagnetic fields". James L. Oschman, Ph.D By using electromagnetic fields, it is possible to access and restore at a cellular (and indeed sub-cellular level) a whole new vein in medicine that has opened up endless possibilities. Faraday's Law of Induction enables magnetic fields to induce microcurrents into tissues, and these are conducted by ions and semiconducted by electrons. This resonance enables fields of particular frequencies to influence specific structures within the body; however given that each patient is different, you do need the capability of determining the unique imbalances in each individual. The Ondamed® system (which sponsored the presentation at the A5M conference, uses both sound and induced electricity as biofeedback signals, with the body's response monitored by radial artery pulse biofeedback. Humans are electromagnetic beings, and are receptive to subtle current impulses of electromagnetic vibrations, that effect the body's fluids, organs, tissue and cells. The flow of electrons primarily takes place in connective tissue, which the body has an abundance of in many different types.

If you happen to be in Las Vegas early December for the American Academy of Anti-Ageing Medicine (A4M) conference you could learn more about the therapeutic benefits of this diagnostic and treatment modality at the Integrative Biophysics Workshop Thursday, December 9, 2010. The inventor of the ONDAMED Technology Rolf Binder, will be joined by Stephen Sinatra, MD, FACC, FACN, CNS, CBT, Jan Hranicky, PhD. and Silvia Binder, N.D., Ph.D, who will give an in-depth workshop on the technology and therapeutic applications.

* ONDAMED is a battery-powered biofeedback device that a medical practitioner uses to determine which frequencies of sound, as well as the accompanying weak pulsed electromagnetic fields, cause a response in a patient's autonomic nervous system.

Cells and intracellular elements are capable of vibrating in a dynamic manner with complex harmonics, the frequency of which can now be measured and analysed in a quantitative manner. Schlebusch, K.P., Maric-Oehler, W. and Popp, F.A.,(2005) used infrared thermography imaging to show the electical impluse from acupunture needles and the tracing of the impluse through the meridians. In an early work, Betty F. Sisken and Janet Walker, (1995) found optimal electrical therapeutic healing energy levels for various tissues: ! Nerve regeneration – 2 Hz ! Bone growth – 7 Hz ! Ligament healing – 10 Hz ! Capillaries and skin – 15 Hz.

UPCOMING A4M CONFERENCE

The spectrum of clinical applications of such therapy is enormous and includes pain, acute and chronic inflammation, sports injuries, anxiety and stress-related disorders, and hormonal, neurologic and vascular conditions, all being amenable to biofeedback techniques.

Chemical reaction in the body is primarily effected by electrical impulse — we know enzymatic activity is affected by voltages and currents in surrounding matrix that the enzyme is in. The speed of these reactions is so fast that pure physical chemistry cannot achieve it by itself.

There are many devices and modalities available in the area of electromagnetic stimulation, and as with all equipment, be aware that price alone is not the best guiding factor. Due diligence is critical and must have TGA ARTG Certificate for use in Australia. I trust this article has provided you with background information for your own use and to help answer questions your clients may come up with. To learn more about electromagnetic fields (not necessarily therapeutic) a great independent source is the World Health Organisation site: http://www.who.int/peh-emf/about/WhatisEMF/en/

The A4M 18th Annual World Congress on Anti-Aging Medicine and Biomedical Technologies will be held at the Mandalay Bay Resort and Casino in Las Vegas, Nevada, USA.

Energy medicine is the diagnostic and therapeutic use of energy whether produced by or detected by a medical device or by the human body. Energy medicine recognises that the human body utilises various forms of energy for communications involved in physiological regulations. Energy medicine involves energy of particular frequencies and intensities and wave shapes that stimulate the repair of one or more tissue types.

CONCLUSION

Did you know that collagen, a substance that we work so hard to restore and maintain, being one of the most prevalent proteins in the body, is a great semiconductor of electrical impulse? This living matrix system that extends throughout the body is a semiconducting electronic network.

ENERGY MEDICINE

Since this publication, much study has been undertaken in healing frequencies (again a database search will provide more reading than you could ever get through). This research is behind a number of equipment modalities available to the practitioner and for the individual at home with small hand-held devices.

Temporary stimulation by these frequencies, combined with the patient's cognitive and non-cognitive participation, promotes relaxation, muscle re-education, and rehabilitation that returns the body to its former state of wellness.

REFERENCES Betty F. Sisken and Janet Walker, Therapeutic Aspects of Electromagnetic Fields for Soft-Tissue Healing, Electromagnetic Fields Advances in Chemistry, Chapter 15, 1995, pp 277-285. Oschman, James L. Ph.D. Nature's Own Research Association www.energyresearch.us Schlebusch, K.P., Maric-Oehler, W. and Popp, F.A.2005. Biophotonics in the infrared spectral range reveal acupuncture meridian structure of the body. Journal of Alternative and Complementary Medicine 11(1):171-173.

Terry Everitt is known as a Master Aesthetician in Advanced Clinical Aesthetics and lectures at medical and aesthetic conferences, both in Australia and internationally, while also being an educationalist in the development of quality assurance learning. He is also a consultant in legislative compliance requirements within the vocational education and training environment. Terry holds membership with the Australasian Academy of Anti-Aging Medicine (A5M), Australian Society of Cosmetic Chemists, Australian Institute of Training and Development and the Australian Institute of Management among others. He can be contacted on 0414 483 758.

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APJ 89


research As we address the issue of overweight and obesity within our salons and clinics it is appropriate that we stay in touch with new research findings that offer a greater understanding of the underlying problems that lead to these conditions. This article, presented by Bonnie Sleep, is the third part of a comprehensive series of articles that investigate new research findings and the light they shed on the whole issue of why overweight and obesity is such a problems in today's society. This series will also present in the next issue new solutions that are now available to us.

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At no time in our recorded history has body fat been so scrutinised, so condemned or so cast as a negative health and image culprit for so many cultures. Never has a woman felt so conspicuous about her cellulite, or her wobbly inner thighs. She can die a thousand deaths if you notice her back fat creases, turkey- gobble chin or her muffin top over-sag, yet these are all common 'worst nightmares' for many of us and our clients.

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Fat has become a permanently dirty word that is under an intense public spotlight and universally considered unhealthy, unsexy and undesirable. What is currently considered excessive body fat is decisively linked to a raft of diseases, primarily cardiovascular and endocrine related, so there is no reprieve for fat.

YOUR UNIQUE FAT LAY-DOWN PROFILE Although there are predominant gender patterns where women tend to accumulate around the buttocks and thighs and men around the abdomen, both these 'apple' and 'pear' shaped distribution types can be found in either gender. However, your unique tendency to fatty accumulation will be due as much to your genes as your gender. These are other genetically determined key areas that can become fat storage issues that we know only too well: ! Knees – Fat often builds up on the inside region of the knees in women. ! Upper Arms – Middle to upper area of the upper arm, typically covering the triceps area. ! Abdomen – Fat build-up around the navel area is common in both men and women. It is also one of the few fat deposits that are also found in slim women. ! Inner Thigh – Fat storage between the thighs is common in women, but also occurs with men. It is more noticeable in women due to the width of the pelvis, in turn influences the position of the thigh.

The Good, the Bad and the Ugly The inside story of Brown and White body Fat Part III By Bonnie Sleep B.Ed, M.Ed.

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Outer Thigh – Sometimes called Riding Breeches, this area is the most likely place for the pitted or quilted appearance of cellulite. This fat concentration also blends with fat tissue on the inner thigh and the buttocks. ! Buttocks – Without fat on the buttocks, sitting would be quite uncomfortable, so fat is held in place by the gluteal fold. If significant fat is lost from the buttock, then only tailored training can prevent the buttock from sagging down against the thigh. ! Lower Back – This fat concentration often merges with the buttock area. ! Chest – Breast tissue comprises the mammary gland surrounded by fat. Men can also have atrophied glands and fat in this area, so both sexes can gain fat in this area. In men this can sometimes be mistaken for the condition of gynecomastia, a condition that includes not only fat build -up, but also undesirable growth in gland tissue.

Fat cells, some essential and some not. Body fat distribution differs from person to person, but there are two major types of fat storage: ! Visceral or essential fatty tissue surrounding and protecting organs ! Subcutaneous, which is beneath the skin and comprises about 80% of all body fat.

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Humans have adipose tissue all over their body made of adipocytes, or specialised fat cells that store energy in the form of fat. These fat cells are a unique type of cell operating like a tiny plastic bag holding a droplet of fat. White fat cells are large cells that have very little cytoplasm, only 15 per cent cell volume, a small nucleus and one large fat droplet that makes up 85 per cent of cell volume.

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The first action of the body in maintaining energy is to break down carbohydrates (or glycogen) into simple glucose molecules in a process called glycogenolysis. Next process is for your body to break down fats into glycerol and fatty acids in the process called lipolysis. The fatty acids can then be broken down directly to release energy, or they can be used to make glucose through a multi-step process called gluconeogenesis. In gluconeogenesis, amino acids can also be used to make glucose.

FAT CELLS BROKEN DOWN When you eat food that contains fat, the fatty triglycerides go through your stomach on to your intestines where a range of complex conversions are triggered that include: ! In the large intestines, large fat droplets get mixed with bile salts from the gall bladder in a process called emulsification. This mixture breaks up the large droplets into several smaller droplets called micelles, increasing the fat's surface area. ! The pancreas then secretes enzymes called lipases, which attack the surface of each micelle and break the fats down into their parts, glycerol and fatty acids. ! The cell lining the intestines then absorbs these parts. ! Triglycerides - In these intestinal cells, the parts are reassembled into packages of fat molecules (triglycerides) with a protein coating called chylomicrons. The protein coating makes the fat dissolve more easily in water. ! The chylomicrons are released into the lymphatic system. They do not go directly into the bloodstream because they are too big to pass through the wall of the capillary. ! Only when the lymphatic system eventually merges with the veins, do the chylomicrons pass into the bloodstream. Therefore fat molecules are broken down into glycerol and fatty acids and later rebuilt. This is because fat molecules are too big to easily cross cell membranes. So when passing from the intestine through the intestinal cells into the lymph, or when crossing any cell barrier, the fats must be broken down. However, when fats are transported in the lymph or blood, large fat molecules are more effective than smaller fatty acids, largely because the larger fats are more efficient as they don't attract as many water molecules so are not as heavy or slow as smaller molecules.

FAT CELLS BUILT BACK UP Fat in the body is broken down and rebuilt coated in chylomicrons, which enter the bloodstream through the lymphatic system. These chylomicrons don't last long in the bloodstream, only about eight minutes, because enzymes called Lipoprotein Lipases or LPLs break the fats into fatty acids. These Lipoprotein Lipases are found in the walls of blood vessels in fat tissue; muscle tissue and heart muscle and are the critical absorption factors.

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In the fat cell, other types of lipase work to break down fats into fatty acids and glycerol. These lipases are activated by various hormones, such as glucagon, epinephrine and growth hormone. The resulting glycerol and fatty acids are released into the blood, and travel to the liver through the bloodstream. Once in the liver, the glycerol and fatty acids can be either further broken down or used to make glucose.

INSULIN When you eat a sweet or a carbohydrate-rich meal, the presence of glucose, amino acids or fatty acids in the intestine stimulates the pancreas to secrete the hormone insulin. Insulin acts on many cells in your body, especially those in the liver, muscle and fat tissue.

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Insulin tells the cells many things: ! To absorb glucose, fatty acids and amino acids To stop breaking down glucose, fatty acids and amino acids To turn glycogen into glucose To turn fats into fatty acids and glycerol To turn proteins into amino acids To start building glycogen from glucose Build fats (triglycerides) from glycerol and fatty acids Build proteins from amino acids.

The entire activity level of lipoprotein lipases, LPLs depends upon the levels of insulin in the body. If insulin is high, then the lipases are highly active; if insulin is low, the lipases are inactive. Where there is sufficient insulin, the fatty acids are then absorbed from the blood into fat cells, muscle cells and liver cells. If these cells are under stimulation by insulin fatty acids are made into fat molecules and stored as fat droplets. So insulin levels play a critical role in the process of fat storage.

YOUR EFFICIENT BODY

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When you are not eating, your body is not absorbing food. If your body is not absorbing food, there is little insulin in the blood. However, your body is always using energy. If you're not absorbing food, this energy must come from internal stores of complex carbohydrates, fats and proteins. Under these conditions, various organs in your body secrete hormones.

GLUCOSE

These hormones act on cells in the liver, muscle and fat tissue and have the opposite effects to insulin. When you are not eating, but you are exercising, your body must draw on its internal energy stores. Your body's prime source of energy is glucose. In fact, some cells in your body, such as brain cells, can only get their energy from glucose.

However, it is also possible for fat cells to take up glucose and amino acids, which have been absorbed into the bloodstream after a meal, and convert those into fat molecules. The conversion of carbohydrates or protein into fat is 10 times less efficient than simply storing fat in a fat cell, but the body can do it.

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If you have 100 extra calories in fat (about 11 grams) floating in your bloodstream, fat cells can store it using only 2.5 calories of energy. On the other hand, if you have 100 extra calories in glucose (about 25 grams) floating in your bloodstream, it takes 23 calories of energy to convert the glucose into fat and then store it. Given a choice, a fat cell will grab the fat and store it rather than the carbohydrates because fat is so much easier to store in terms of calorie burn.

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Therefore, fat accumulation is a combination of your conscious food choices combined with your body's smart biochemical programming. Your weight and fat storage profile is determined by your genetics, but also by the rate you store and use energy you derive from the food you eat.

temperature, so brown fat stores shrink and white fat starts to emerge. From a biological perspective, brown fat is also highly inefficient, since all regular body cells don't need to burn hea — they use ATP, another chemical produced by mitochondria.

It is interesting that as your body breaks down fat, the number of fat cells remains the same; it's just that each fat cell simply gets smaller.

In 2004 Dr Sven Enerbäck at the University of Göteborg in Sweden demonstrated using the imaging technologies, that healthy adults retain a sizeable amount of brown fat in the front and back of the neck. Enerbäck and his team studied five patients and confirmed, using genetic analysis, that the cells around the neck were indeed brown fat. Many scientists had suspected this for years as when scanning patients with positron emission tomography (PET) – an imaging technique often used on cancer patients to detect the spread of tumours, scientists had long noted the excess activity of brown fat cells in their images. They just didn't realise the connection in what they were seeing.

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BROWN VERSUS WHITE FAT FOR WEIGHT LOSS The human body contains two types of fat tissue: ! White fat is the critical factor enabling energy metabolism, heat insulation and mechanical cushioning. This fat is the common, garden variety of body fat that is functional and the cause of health and image issues when excessive. ! Brown fat is found mostly in newborn babies, commonly between the shoulders, and is important for making sufficient heat to keep the new born alive. When a baby is first born, its body does not have much white fat to help insulate and retain body heat. This is because, although there are white fat cells, there is not much fat stored in them. Brown fat cells are much smaller than white and are composed of several smaller fat droplets and are loaded with mitochondria, which generate heat. A newborn baby produces heat via a process called thermogenesis, which primarily breaks down fat molecules into fatty acids in brown fat cells. Instead of those fatty acids leaving the brown fat cell, as happens in white fat cells, they get further broken down in the mitochondria and their energy is released directly as heat. This same process occurs in hibernating animals, which have more brown fat than humans do. Once the newborn baby starts eating more, developing layers of white fat, the brown fat was thought to disappear. Adult humans were thought to have little or no brown fat deposits, but in the past two decades there has been a flurry of interest in the nature and possible extended role of brown fat in the human body.

GROUND-BREAKING RESEARCH

BROWN FAT: HOT SPOTS Since PET picks up glucose-burning activity in cells, hot spots on PET scans of cancer patients generally indicate actively growing tumours. But after doing biopsies, doctors found that hot spots in the neck of most of their patients weren't cancerous at all. These turned out to be brown fat deposits. Identifying the presence of brown fat is one thing, but activating them to burn more glucose is another. Two studies in the New England Journal of Medicine, one by Enerbäck's team, confirmed that brown fat cells become more active in the cold, when study participants needed to boost their body temperature. Enerbäck saw increased activity when he plunged one foot of each volunteer into an ice bath while in the scanner. In a separate study, scientists at Maastricht University Medical Centre in the Netherlands also saw upticks in brown fat activity in subjects who had been chilling in a 16C (61F) room for two hours. PET technicians have also long known that putting patients in warmer rooms tends to keep any extra activity from showing up and complicating their images.

BROWN FAT: SLIM WITHOUT THE GYM BROWN FAT: FOUND IN ADULTS A series of papers published in the New England Journal of Medicine from 1998 to 2004 confirmed for the first time that healthy adults have stores of this adipose tissue, which researchers have now been studying for potential new weight-loss treatments.

Until now, only rodents and human newborns have been known to have any significant deposits of brown fat, so called because of its abnormally high concentration of dark-coloured mitochondria, the engines that sustain cell activity.

The primary purpose of brown fat is to regulate body temperature. As the mitochondria-packed cells are designed to burn high quantities of glucose, the body's fuel releases that energy as heat, which is a mechanism that newborns, fresh from the warm confines of the womb, rely on to keep them warm.

As people age, however, the body becomes more adept at regulating

Brown fat may indeed shift the balance of calorie intake and expenditure, allowing a person to burn more calories with the same amount of fat consumption, without the chore of going to the gym or sweating through a workout. "We have very few interventions aimed at increasing energy expenditure," says Dr. Franceso Celi, a clinician at the National Institute of Diabetes and Digestive and Kidney Diseases at the National Institutes of Health. "And here we have a tissue that works exactly with the purpose of burning energy." On the basis of animal models, researchers calculate that 50g of brown fat, less than what the scientists in the current series of papers documented in their volunteers, could burn about 20% of an average person's daily caloric intake. However, health implications are being thoroughly investigated before any mass strategies are developed to use brown fat as an energy furnace within the body.

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has cautioned that his team's findings don't necessarily mean that activating brown fat will lead to a trimmer waist. For one thing, the body is especially good at maintaining equilibrium, which is why a boost in calorie burning can often trigger a hunger signal and prompt people to eat more to make up for the loss.

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And even if drug companies could find a way to activate brown fat safely, that same excess activity could damage the balance between other metabolic systems and damage health.

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BROWN FAT: LINK WITH CANCER AND HYPERTHYROIDISM

BROWN FAT: PROTECTION AGAINST DIABETES AND OBESITY Lead investigator C. Ronald Kahn, M.D., an internationally recognised researcher who is Head of the US based Joslin Diabetes Centre, and specialises in Obesity and Hormone Action, and the Mary K. Iacocca, Professor of Medicine at Harvard Medical School have a high profile international team working on the link between diabetes and brown fat deposits. Their latest reported studies published in a series from 2006 to 2009 show that brown fat may not disappear in all adult animals and that little collections of brown fat may account for why some mice are protected from obesity and diabetes and others are not. These studies began by exploring differences in basal energy expenditure, the amount of energy required to maintain the body's normal metabolic activity, such as respiration and maintenance of body temperature and its role in the development of obesity and metabolic syndrome in two different genetic strains of mice: the B6 mouse and the 129 mouse. The B6 mouse is one of the most commonly used strains in metabolic research and an established model for diet-induced obesity, whereas the 129 mouse was bred with possible higher levels of brown fatty deposits.

The brakes have also been applied as adults with appreciable amounts of brown fat have also been found to be those who have the tendency to, or have developed, certain types of cancer or hyperthyroidism. These are conditions that have been shown to stimulate the growth of brown fat or be related to this interaction. Therefore there is a huge potential for weight-loss applications, but also a huge-health status irony. Current research directions have identified that this ironic connection may lead to interlinked breakthroughs in both areas, but extreme caution is being exercised where a responsible attitude to holistic health underpins research. So be vigilant to quick weight- loss programs based on brown fat stimulation promises!

hCG AND DIENCEPHALON REGULATION: THE REAL KEY TO PERMANENT FAT LOSS? There is however, another view of fat storage that has been around for over 50 years and is experiencing a focus of attention for its simple understanding of the role of the diencephalon. The diencephalon is the part of the forebrain that contains the key endocrine features of the thalamus, hypothalamus and the posterior portion of the pituitary gland. The hypothalamus, considered the master regulator of the diencephalon, performs numerous vital functions, especially the regulation of visceral activities through messages sent to other brain regions and especially the autonomic nervous system. The key is the way the hypothalamus 'master controls' a fat bank within the body and how this can be master regulated with the use of a relatively simple hormone, hCG or human Chorionic Gonadotrophin.

When placed on a high-fat diet, the B6 mouse developed severe obesity, high blood glucose and insulin resistance with extremely high insulin levels. By contrast, the 129 mouse gained on average 30 to 50 per cent less weight on either a high-or low-fat diet than the B6 mouse and has been considered resistant to dietary induced obesity and glucose intolerance. In one of the studies, Dr. Kahn and his colleagues showed that this difference is due to the higher basal energy expenditure in the 129 mouse. The researchers found unexpectedly high levels of clusters of brown fat cells stuck between bundles of muscle fibres in the leg of the mouse. In this case, the 129 mouse had over 100 times more brown fat in muscle than the B6 mouse. ㄰ 㤵 㜵

"This site of brown fat was previously unrecognised and is certainly one of the reasons for the differences in energy expenditure between strains of mice. Now we need to see if the same is true for humans and if this could account for why some people gain weight easily and others seem to be protected against weight gain and metabolic syndrome that can lead to type 2 diabetes," Dr. Kahn said. In 2009 one of Dr Kahn's key discoveries was that finding drugs that stimulate the amount or activity of this brown fat could also lead to a new therapy for obesity and prevention of diabetes. Still, Dr Kahn

Red section indicates the Diencephalon region of the brain More on this in the next issue of APJ, but you may be very impressed with this simple and now time-honoured set of fat-loss protocols. Many US based and now a few Aussie practitioners have done the research on making this available under medical supervision in Australia. We'll have a close look at how this can be delivered to you and maybe your clients in the Autumn Edition of the APJ.

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REFERENCES: http://www.time.com/time/health/article/0,8599,1890175,00.html#ixz z12bSVfxDz http://www.freedieting.com/body_fat_gain http://www.medicalnewstoday.com/articles/64362 http://www.joslin.org/.

APJ 93


anti-ageing ㄰

The Impact of Glycation on the Ageing of the Skin and Body By Peter T. Pugliese, MD

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As aesthetic therapists we regularly witness the accelerated ageing impact of glycation on the skin. Manifestations such as what appears to be cross-linked stiff, nonfunctional collagen and elastic that contribute to the appearance of deep lines and wrinkles that originate in the deeper layers of the dermis. In this article Dr Peter Pugliese, who is considered a world-authority and renowned educator in skin physiology, presents a scientific approach to the impact that glycation has on the skin and the body and offers solutions and recommendations on how assist in preventing and treating it. This is a lengthy article, but one that every serious aesthetic therapists should heed to its recommendations.

PHYSIOLOGICAL CONSEQUENCES Glycation affects the cardiovascular system in a very large way. Tissues and organs that have a slow turnover or are more permanent in the body are most affected by glycation. The cardiovascular system; connective tissue and

skin; nerve tissue and renal tissue are major targets. If you examine an artery, either large or small, you will see some of the target tissues in the blood vessels. See Figure 11.

All blood vessels have the same basic structure. There are three layers from inside to outside. The tunica intima is a single layer of endothelial cells that are quite fragile. There is a thin layer of subendothelial connective tissue immediately under the tunica intima that contains elastin fibres. The next layer is the tunica media, which is the thickest layer and contains muscle cells, collagen and many elastin fibres. The muscles of the tunica media control the diameter, or calibre, of the artery. Finally, there is the tunica adventitia, which consists of connective tissue, nerves and small blood vessels that actually supply the large blood vessel itself with nutrient blood flow. See Figure 12 for the locations of these layers. The importance of understanding the anatomy of the blood vessels is to appreciate the amount of elastin in the arteries and see it as a site to which glycation molecules will latch. When this happens the calibre of the artery is decreased, and its ability to respond to the changes and needs in blood pressure is markedly decreased. This property of mechanical

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changes in blood vessels is called compliance. There is also a lot of collagen in the arterial walls, which, through the action of AGE molecules, can cross-link with each other and with other molecules, such as the plasma proteins albumin and globlulins.2

RENAL SYSTEM ㈵

The kidney is a highly vascular organ that functions as a filter, which eliminates waste and some toxins, but the key mechanism relies on adequate, but not excessive, blood pressure. Advanced Glycation End (AGE) molecules can damage not only the vascular part of the kidney, but also the filtration system, namely the membrane system that is so critical to the selective passage of many different molecules. AGEs now have a strong association with the genesis of diabetic renal complications.4'5

NEUROLOGICAL AND OCULAR SYSTEMS

al, a section of a skin biopsy is shown from the face of a 91-year-old revealing tangled masses of elastotic material in the upper dermis.

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When this material was stained for elastin using immunological stains, large amounts of this elastotic material was seen.9 Much of the fine processes involved with glycation remain to be discovered. Glucose and other simple sugars combine with proteins as a first step, but sugars also combine with amino acids and other compounds to start the process. As an example, fructoselysine, which is formed by glycation of the amino acid lysine, can be oxidatively cleaved to form smaller reactive compounds, such as carboxymethyl lysine (CML) and pentosidine.10

The net result is elastin and collagen that cannot be catabolised, or broken down, and new proteins are formed to replace them. Because of this, the skin becomes stiff and yellow-brown with age. A key concept is that it is not only glycation that produces these effects. For these products undergo oxidation to form the smaller, often more reactive Maillard chemicals, such as CML and pentosidine.

AGEs have been reported to play an important role in the pathogenesis of Alzheimer's disease. In one study using immunohistochemical localisation of AGEs, AGE proteins and other abnormal proteins were found in senile plaques and in neurofibrillary tangles in Alzheimer's disease and other neurodegenerative The aesthetician diseases.6

needs to understand that, as clients age, they will have more of a risk of glycation-initiated damage. The glucose level is the major culprit in initiating the formation of AGEs and the end product of glycation is cross-linked, stiff, non-functioning collagen and elastin.

In the eye, retinopathy is associated with reduced vision or blindness, depending on the type. AGEs are associated with diabetic retinopathy, although just how this happens as a pathogenic mechanism is poorly understood. One of the agents needed for retinal growth and function is known as the vascular endothelial growth factor (VEGF). In a recent study, it was found that AGEs increased in the retinal pigment epithelial cell layers of a rat retina. The AGE-induced increase in VEGF levels was correlated with the dose- and time-dependency of exposure to AGEs, but the effect could be inhibited by antioxidants. AGEs may participate in the pathogenesis of diabetic retinopathy through their ability to increase retinal VEGF gene expression.7 Glycation in the cortex and nucleus of the human lens was found in the cataracts of both nondiabetic and diabetic older individuals when studied for the amount of early and late AGEs. There was a definite increase in early and late glycation in the lens nucleus when compared to the cortex of both the nondiabetic and diabetic older individuals, although these changes were much larger in the diabetic group. Glycation of the lens proteins is a generalised feature that is seen more frequently in the diabetic lens compared to senile lens proteins. The obvious reason is the increased glucose level seen in the diabetic individual.8

SKIN

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After all of this complex stuff, if you read this far, you are probably asking "When will skin be covered?" Well, here you are. Fortunately, glycation does not occur largely in the dermis before age 35, but then it really gets going and, along with intrinsic ageing, it progresses rapidly. The long-lived tissues are the target of AGEs, and they bind tenaciously to collagen and elastin, more avidly to elastin. This can be seen in the upper dermis, which is the realm of elastin. In a paper by Mizutari et

One other comment on this topic: There is some nonsense in the population about vitamin C, or ascorbic acid, being a major cause of oxidative stress and causing free radicals. There is no strong evidence to support this, and there have been no reports where it has been associated with glycation or oxidative stress. Supplemental vitamin C may be used without fear of making things worse. The aesthetician needs to understand that, as clients age, they will have more of a risk of glycation-initiated damage. The glucose level is the major culprit in initiating the formation of AGEs and the end product of glycation is cross-linked, stiff, non-functioning collagen and elastin. A sad commentary is that collagen has a half-life of 15 or more years in the skin, so the turnover is very slow and the AGE damage is very difficult to remove. As a comparison, the collagen in the aorta has a half-life of 100 years. Besides instructing your clients in good dietary practices, they must also be strongly admonished to quit smoking. One more basic science topic needs to be covered before prevention and treatment of glycation can be discussed, and that is the subject of AGE receptors on cells.

RECEPTORS FOR ADVANCED GLYCATION END-PRODUCTS (RAGEs) A very basic biological concept is that of agent and receptor, or ligand and receptor. A ligand is any compound that binds to another molecule, such as a receptor. For example, every peptide needs a receptor on the cell if it is going to have an effect on that cell. Since it is water-soluble, the peptide cannot enter the lipid cell membrane, so it uses a receptor on the cell membrane that can transfer its message to the nucleus.

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APJ 95


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In Figure 13, this system is labelled with all parts identified. The RAGE receptor is known as a toll-like receptor, which are patternrecognition receptors very similar to the immunoglobulin receptors, which are key mediators of your response to bacteria or viruses, for example. The process goes along a pathway on which the macrophage first ingest the bacteria and produce cytokines that initiate inflammation by activating the immune system. This is a fundamental mechanism in most biological species. The AGEs, glycated proteins, lipids or even nucleic acids form a group of patterned ligands that can interact with RAGEs and initiate cellular signalling programs that include activation of NF-kB, a major inflammatory agent. Unlike binding directly to a long-lived protein, such as collagen or elastin, these soluble AGEs act as ligands on RAGEs and stimulate the inflammatory process. NF-kB is a critical factor in inflammation, and inflammation is suspected to be a major factor in ageing. Here is a very brief overview of NF-kB. It is a transcription factor; that is, it takes processed signals from the cell membrane, or cytoplasm, into the nucleus and turns on specific genes that promote inflammation. It is found in just about every cell in the body and can be activated by many types of stimuli, such as free radicals, ultraviolet irradiation, oxidised products, bacterial and/or viral antigens. Within the immune system, it is a key step in controlling the response to infection. On the down side, when it is not regulated properly, NF-kB can lead to cancer, inflammatory connective tissue diseases, septic shock, viral infection and even neurological malfunction. Just so you appreciate the importance of glycation, both insoluble and soluble forms are unfriendly. The insoluble form cross-links protein and can add to proteins, such as enzymes, and to lipids to denature them, making them not only non-functional, but also harmful to the cells and tissues. The soluble AGEs react with RAGEs on the cell membrane and initiate the activation of NF-kB, which, in turn, sets off a nuclear cascade of inflammatory agents, like a microscopic nuclear war. This may be the first time you have come across the concept of NF-kB, but it will not be the last time if you continue to read in the world of science, particularly the science of skincare.

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There is one research paper that reports the rapid induction of collagenase and elastase by UV light, and how these enzymes can be produced within minutes to hours after sun exposure. It also reports about the effect of retinoids in preventing this damaging effect. The cellular summary of the AGEsRAGEs action can be seen in Figure 14. By binding to the cell receptor, these AGE molecules might affect cellular function.

Remember that RAGE is a member of the immunoglobulin family of cell-surface molecules and is able to recognise threedimensional structures, such as proteins in the form of sheets and fibrils, rather than a sequence of specific amino acid structures, as do true immunoglobulin receptors.

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RAGEs, therefore, can act as multiligand receptors; that means it is able to interact with not only AGEs, but also with other proteins, such as SlOO-proteins. One special feature of activated RAGEs is the induction of a sustained pro-inflammatory transcription factor NF-kB by overriding the normal auto-regulatory loops.

RAGEs can sustain cellular activation and function as master switches, and, by doing this, they convert short-lasting proinflammatory responses into long-lasting cellular dysfunction. In Figure 14, glucose and other initiators of inflammation, such as cytokines, induce the formation of Reactive Oxygen Species (ROS) and thereby turn on NF-kB. Inflammatory cells release AGEs, and ROS promote intracellular AGEs. All of these actions, along with the activation of NF-kB, result in more RAGE expression, which will increase the number of RAGE-binding sites required to sustain NFkB. This is a very important factor about AGEs and RAGEs. RAGEs are driven by a setting in which ligands accumulate in an early proinflammatory type of environment, which can be seen in diabetes mellitus, atherosclerosis, neuro-degenerative disorders, rheumatoid arthritis and chronic inflammatory bowel disease.

GLYCATION DAMAGE IN SKIN CELLS Two glycation end product carbonyls that are quite plentiful in the body are known as methylglyoxal and glyoxal. You will recall that carbonyls are by-products of the early Maillard reaction and they are very nasty reactive compounds. Figure 15 shows how both glyoxal and methylglyoxal can be produced from glucose without going through the whole Maillard reaction. These reactions proceed with oxygen, so antioxidants are not helpful in preventing them. They are very important because they are found to interfere with many biochemical substances and reactions.

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APJ 96


One in particular is DNA. Both glyoxal and methylglyoxal damage DNA in intact cells.

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Glyoxal is able to produce DNA strand breaks and methylglyoxal is responsible for many DNA protein cross-linking that results in nuclear condensation and the inactivation of some sections of DNA. There are many biological reactions caused by this pair of culprits, but this gives you an insight into the dangers they can pose.11'12 There is some adverse effect of glycation on keratinocyte function. It has been reported that glycation products diminish the effectiveness of collagen type I binding to keratinocytes and this defect reduces the migration ability of keratinocytes in the epidermis, but it does not affect the proliferative capacity of keratinocytes.13 This finding could relate to impaired wound-healing. Glycation has also been connected to the accelerated aging of keratinocytes. Placing keratinocytes in tissue culture with a solution of glucose at 100 mM, or glyoxal at 0.1 mm in three days will change the biological characteristic of the cells from young keratinocytes to old, late-passage keratinocytes.1 This is very significant because it indicates that a poor diet – one high in sugars – can markedly speed up the aging process.14 These are only a few of the adverse effects of glycation on skin. The bottom line is that glycation makes you older faster, and makes the skin look just plain awful.

WHAT CAN YOU DO? You can start a therapeutic program to help your clients prevent further glycation. Start by looking at the foods they eat. Just about every food contains some level of glycation products. It is important to consume the lowest possible level of these destructive agents, since a zero intake is next to impossible. See Table 1. Only about 10% of the quantity of a glycation product ingested is absorbed into the circulation, of which about two-thirds is bioavailable and the other one-third is excreted by the urine. So if you eat 100 glycation units, 10 units are absorbed and only 6.6 units are bioavailable. Great! You might think that this is nothing, but wait a minute and think. That is only a tiny fraction of what you eat in a day, as you will see.

The following discussion is based on a paper published in the Journal of the American Dietetic Association.15 Foods were prepared by the following methods and the quantity of glycation products determined per millilitre of food: boiled in water at 100°C (212°F), deep-fried at 180°C (356°F), oven-fried at 230°C (446°F) and roasted at 177°C (350.6°F).

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The two AGE units determined were carboxymethyl lysine and carboxyethyl lysine. The levels of AGEs in these foods are tabulated in Table 1. The results of this study showed a clear relationship between AGE content and nutrient composition. Lipids and proteins had the highest content of AGEs, while carbohydrates contained the lowest amount. Processed food contained much higher levels of AGEs. For example, rice cereal contained 600 Kilounits (Ku)/serving, while toasted bread contained only 30 Ku/serving. The research workers attributed this difference to the system of processing. Many processed foods undergo a treatment in which they are heated to 446°F and may be subjected to high pressures for extrusion. These methods have been found to produce thermal degradation, dehydration and actual molecular rearrangement of fragments, which are known to promote glycoxides.16 It is interesting that the temperature at which food is cooked is more important than the time it is cooked. A chicken breast that has been cooked by boiling for one hour at 212°F has fewer AGEs1,000 Ku, than a chicken breast broiled at 446°F for 15 minutes – 5,250 Ku. The authors recommend a dietary program similar to that proposed by the American Heart Association.

Basically, the diet consists of reducing high AGE-containing foods, such as full-fat cheese, processed meats and other highly processed foods, and add or increase low-fat milk products, grains, fruits and vegetables. Obviously, high glucose intake is also a no-no. One of the problems in assaying these foods is selecting the AGEs to measure, which is no small task because there may be hundreds of these compounds.

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When cooking foods, particularly meat, temperatures should be less than 250°C (482°F) and they should cook for less than one hour. When these limits are exceeded, more AGEs are produced. Processed foods should be used sparingly, as the temperatures used are high and mechanical stress can produce many AGEs. An example is some baby formula, which contains more than 100 times as many AGEs as breast milk or cow milk. Eating high AGE-containing foods will modulate the immune system, which can result in auto-immune disorders.17

SMOKING AND GLYCATION Cigarette smoke contains high concentrations of glycotoxins that pass from the lungs into the bloodstream. The glycotoxins are, in part, responsible for increased rates of atherosclerotic cardiovascular disease and cancer. Once they are in the bloodstream, the glycotoxins induce the formation of AGEs, which attach to the proteins of the vascular walls and initiate atherosclerosis. It is highly probable that these glycotoxins may react with DNA in the lungs and become a major factor in initiating lung cancer.18 How can you convey the dangers of smoking to your clients? Never accept a skincare client who smokes. Have them stop first, because they cannot be serious about skincare if they smoke. One thing is certain: You can promise your clients that they will have ugly skin in five to 10 years if they smoke.

PREVENTION AND TREATMENT Prevention of disease is the key to staying young and healthy. To prevent or reduce glycation load, first start with diet. Begin with reducing the glycation-heavy foods you consume. Say you cut out 400 calories a day. In three months, you will lose 400 calories x 90 days/4,000 calories = 9 lbs. How much weight should you lose? Roy Wolford, who was the father of caloric restriction, talked about a set point that seems to be your weight as a teenager or young adult, or when you looked your best. Shoot for that. That is not hard to do if you just make a habit of eliminating high-calorie foods, or even reducing them. Next, select a diet that you know you can adhere to – one that reduces sweets to a minimum. Be careful of honey, for fructose is a more avid glycator than glucose.19 Microwaving may help, but most studies show they do not because of the high temperature of steam that they generate. The benefit may be in the short time the foods are exposed to heat. Fibre helps to absorb glycation products, so eat whole fruits and vegetables. Also, consume fewer fried and grilled foods; more slowcooked foods, such as soups and stews; more raw fruits and vegetables; a little more gnawing on bones; a good, firm apple a day, some grains and milk; low fat cheese, fish, such as mackerel, tuna, salmon and sardines; and eggs. Avoid high-sugar items, such as pies or rich cakes, doughnuts and high-temperature processed foods.

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SUPPLEMENTS

There are a few supplements that help to prevent glycation from occurring. The ones with the best record are the following: ! Aminoguanidine: 150-300 mg a day This is best taken with food. Higher dosages are usually required for diabetic patients, around 300-600 mg daily, or even higher, since aminoguandine last only four hours it should be taken in divided

APJ 97


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doses. It is best to consult with your physician before taking aminoguanidine since it tends to deplete B-6. ! Carnosine: 500-1,000 mg/day ! Pyridoxamine: 100 mg/day Carnosine is a dipeptide consisting of alanine and histidine that has been shown to counteract free radicals and help prevent peroxidation of cell membranes. Pyridoxamine is a form of pyridoxine or vitamin B-6, but it does not have the side-effects of B-6 and is an excellent glycation inhibitor.20

!

Benfotiamine: 100 mg twice a day Benfotiamine is a lipid-soluble thiamine or B-l vitamin. It also is an excellent glycation inhibitor. Aminoguanidine has a long use as a glycation inhibitor, but of late there are some reports of low toxicity, mainly coupling with vitamin B-6. It cannot couple with pyridoxamine, however. It is widely used in animal studies with glycation products and has been shown to be very effective. The dosage for humans is 150300 mg/day in divided doses. There are many suppliers for these products.

Even though glycation has been known about for more than 20 years, the information is only now becoming available to the general public, and very few doctors in the United States have heard of it. Antiglycation agents are widely used in Europe to treat both diabetes and heart disease. So far, the products on the market for topical treatment of glycation are few and not very effective.

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Actually, the extent of glycation in the skin can be measured with an instrument that measures a fluorometric chemical called pentosidine. Pentosidine accumulates in a linear fashion over time. A consumer can actually determine if a topical product is effective with this method and can monitor the progress of treatment in a client. The current instrument is only a research model that costs about $35,000, but as the treatment becomes popular, a more inexpensive version will become available. This could open a whole new era of skincare and antiageing treatment.

Table 1 Advanced Glycoxidation End products (AGE) Content of Selected Foods Prepared by Standard Cooking Methods

FOOD ITEM Fats Almonds roasted Olive oil Butter Mayonnaise

66.5kU/g 120 kU/mL 265 kU/g 94kU/g

Chicken breast grilled 15 min Chicken breast fried 15 min Beef, boiled 1 hr Beef, grilled 15 mins Tuna, roasted 40 mins Tuna grilled 10 mins Cheese American Cheese, Brie Egg, fried Egg yoke, boiled Tofu, raw Tofu, grilled

58 kU/g 61 kU/g 22 kU/g 60 kU/g 6 kU/g 51 kU/g 87 kU/g 56 kU/g 27 kU/g 12 kU/g 8 kU/g 41 kU/g

Carbohydrates Bread, whole-wheat centre Pancake, homemade Milk, cow, whole Milk, human, whole Enfamil (infant formula) Apple Banana Carrots Green Beans

0.54 kU/g 10 kU/g 0.05 kU/mL 0.05 kU/mL 4.86 kU/mL 0.13 kU/g 0.01 kU/g 0.01 kU/g 0.18 kU/g

* AGE denotes N-carboxymethl-lysine (CML) like immunore activity, assessed by enzyme-linked immunosorbent assay based on monoclanal antibody (4G9) Journal of The American Dietetic Association August 2004, Volume 104 Number 8

Once the glycation product is formed it is hard to break because there are no natural enzymes in the body that can dissolve the bond. There are products developed that have been shown to be effective in breaking AGE-associated links. Alt-711 is one of these products that improved the vascular system of older Rhesus monkeys.22 Known now as CI6, a second type studied in rats was found to restore

This product was also a thiazolium type similar to Alt-711.23 A third product uses a different approach; an enzyme specific for glycation called an amadoriase. There are actually two enzymes – fructosyl lysine oxidase and fructosyl lysine 3-phosphokinase – isolated from bacteria that are capable of breaking glycation link proteins. Although not commercially available or tested on humans, it presents a possible method that could be a great addition to future treatment modalities in anti-ageing.

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SUMMARY

Proteins

AGE BREAKERS

AGE* (kU/g or /mL of food)

diabetes-associated cardiovascular diseases.

Glycation is the non-enzymatic joining of a sugar and a protein, or a lipid. It is a process that occurs naturally in foods, especially when cooked. The Maillard reaction is one of these processes that starts by forming a Shiff base and proceeds to forming multiple chemicals called advanced glycation endproducts, or AGEs, that have adverse effects on a person's biological processes. AGEs can link up with many proteins and denature them or alter them to be non-functional, crosslinked collagens, which is an AGE protein complex responsible for stiffness of the skin. Skin collagen has a long half-life; these crosslinked forms do not go away and are not fully reversible at present. Elastin is another longlived protein that is easily glycated and lasts a long time. Denatured elastin is associated with slackened skin. AGEs have cellular receptors known as RAGEs that initiate inflammatory reactions when activated by an AGE complex. These reactions tend to be chronic and are associated with arterial diseases, metabolic disorders and rheumatoid arthritis. Once they are started, the AGERAGE system will accelerate and perpetuate itself. In the skin, glycation accounts for accelerated ageing, yellowing and stiffness of the skin, and decreased circulation. Skin cannot look young and healthy with glycation. Treatment is best started with prevention by diet control, reducing total calories, avoiding high sugar foods and not cooking at high temperatures. Supplements such as aminoguanidine, pyridoxamine, carnosine and benfotiamine are excellent glycation preventers.

A new class of drugs called glycation breakers is being developed to correct the existing glycation protein complexes associated with many chronic diseases. They will truly be the youth drugs of the future.

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REFERENCES For the full list of reference please contact the Editor via email at info@apanetwork.com

APJ 98


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APJ Vol 7 2010  

Aesthetics Practitioners Journal Volume 7 2010 - The official publication of the Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network (APAN)