FOOD & DRINKS
G i n
Juniper
By Robert Marshall
vices and virtues
No other spirit has experienced the fluctuations of fortune and infamy that gin has. Both the drink of the rich – a spirit that spearheaded the cocktail craze of the early twentieth century – and also the drink of the poor, it reached its nadir in the eighteenth century when adulterated with turpentine and sulphuric acid, it brought about the first English laws to prevent excessive drinking and control home distillation. Juniper flavoured spirits, known as Genever, originated in the Netherlands, but arrived in England with the accession of William of Orange in 1689. Its popularity quickly spread and by the following century an alcoholic binge of gin crazed debauchery was endemic in London, the largest metropolis and global trading centre of the world at that time, and ever since gin has continued to typify the vices and virtues of an urbane life. At its core is juniper which is distilled with other roots, herbs, citrus peels and spices. Many of these exotic ingredients arrived in the ports of England and Holland from the colonies and several of these core botanicals, such as orris root, coriander and angelica, remain key components in the distiller’s recipe and have helped make gin a perfect partner for many classic cocktails. Unlike whisky, brandy or rum, gin doesn’t need to be aged (although some modern producers are experimenting with barrel matured gins). This means that a new gin can be distilled, with its unique selection of botanicals, and released, with some clever marketing and storytelling, relatively quickly. Today a plethora of gins exist from all around the globe some simple, light and citrusy, others heavy, spicy and complex. My recommendation is to experiment; try different brands with different variations of mixers, cocktails and garnishes, and explore the infinite possibilities that this beguiling spirit holds.
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