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BREAKING THROUGH

FASHION WAS ALWAYS ISABEL MIRANDA'S GREATEST PASSION

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DIRETOR: MANUEL SERRÃO

RICARDO FERNANDES

THAT IS THE QUESTION

“THE HUMAN RESOURCES ARE THE COMPANIES' MOST IMPORTANT ASSETS”

DID SUSTAINABLE FASHION COME TO STAY?

Cães de Pedra Group's CEO

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FOTO: RUI APOLINÁRIO

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MY PRODUCT

OPENING DOORS IS ANA RIBEIRO'S MISSION

THE SUSTAINABLE MESH THAT COMES FROM THE OCEAN

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ASSOCIAÇÃO NACIONAL DOS INDUSTRIAIS DE LANIFÍCIOS

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TAILORING&SEWING

EDITORIAL By: Manuel Serrão

By: Júlio Magalhães

Carla Lobo 43 years old The R.Lobo’s administrator was born in Guimarães, is married and has two daughters. She's a Graduate, Master and specialist in Management Accounting. For more than 20 years she has accumulated teaching (she teaches Management Control and Analytical Accounting at the Polytechnic of Cávado and Ave,) with the textile industry, where she works in the shopping, planning and commercial departments.

Is Portugal in fashion? In the textile and clothing segment, Portugal has always been sought after by international buyers for our know-how, service, quality and response. The price factor – which is important, no doubt – is no longer seen as the first and only variable to consider when you do business. Proof of this is the growing demand for Portuguese textile and clothing products in recent years.

Is the bet on a quality private label to continue? Undoubtedly, the bet on the private label with true added value is the strategy to follow at R. Lobo. Europe continues to be our main destination or should we diversify? We prefer to keep betting on Europe, where

GEST NATION AT PITTI UOMO Pitti Uomo is internationally acknowledged as the most important and trendy professional event in male fashion. Up until recently, let’s not forget, Italians (and others too) thought of male fashion as their exclusive, given it was associated with quality and extreme good taste. The ‘Made in Italy’ was the most powerful business card in this subsector, all over the world. In the meantime the world has changed, as it always does, but not everyone is aware of how fast it is changing. The enormous increase in Portuguese exports for Italy is yet another sign of the inevitability of those changes. At Pitti Uomo they’re not slacking around, nor do they want Italian men’s fashion to lose relevance. Nevertheless, they have realized that this paradigm shift has to give way to new partnerships, because Italians alone can no longer win every battle. The invitation for Portugal to be the Guest Nation at Pitti Uomo was a sign of recognition and intelligence that the From Portugal (Selectiva Moda/ATP) project was humbled to accept.t

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we place 90% of our exports, at least in the short term. Technical textiles: are we in this or does it only concern others? They are not part of our strategy at all. We believe that the focus of our business is fashion, and we have developed all our work in that direction. What is the strongest external market for R. Lobo? The foreign markets where we focus our exports are France and Sweden. And in which market would you like to enter? We are already present in the European markets that we consider more attractive for the business. However, we intend to increase our share of exports on the German market in the short term. t

Property: ATP - Associação Têxtil e de Vestuário de Portugal. NIF: 501070745 Editor: Paulo Vaz Director: Manuel Serrão Adress: Rua Fernando Mesquita, 2785, Ed. CITEVE 4760-034 Vila Nova de Famalicão Telephone number: +351 252 303 030 Email: tdetextil@atp.pt Subscription e Advertising: Cláudia Azevedo Lopes Telephone number: +351 969 658 043 - mail: cl.tdetextil@gmail.com ERC Provisional Registration: 126725 Circulation: 1000 copies Print Shop: Grafedisport Adress: Estrada Consiglieri Pedroso, 90 - Casal Santa Leopoldina - 2730-053 Barcarena Legal Deposit Number: 451405/19 Editorial Status: Available in: http://www.jornal-t.pt/ estatuto-editorial/ PROMOTED BY

CO-FINANCED BY


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n THAT IS THE QUESTION by António Freitas de Sousa

IS SUSTAINABLE FASHION HERE TO STAY? Only sustainable fashion can be in fashion. Any persisting doubts seem now to have completely vanished. Sustainability is no longer the subject of theoretical analysis or a matter for environmental activists, but rather an innovation catalyst for brands and companies. A reality that must be tackled under environmental, social and economic dimensions. The issue at hand is no longer if sustainability came for good, but instead how to work the concept and take advantage of it.

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“The viability of big manufacturers relies on the sustainable innovation capacity. It’s a market that came to stay”

“It is an essential tool to keep our companies alive. It’s the present and it will be the future”

CRISTINA MOTTA MESSE FRANKFURT

ANA SILVA TINTEX

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n a world where sustainability is yet to be certain – due, in part, to the persisting practises that oppose the planet preservation inevitable tendency –, the fashion sector could not help but give a positive response to the myriad of challenges that sustainability represents. The concerns about sustainability incorporation into the businesses are far away now, and entrepreneurs seem to have come up with

a winning recipe: sustainability went on to become a development tool as important, or even more so, as the traditional management instruments, and an essential innovation element. The multiple answers brought up to tackle sustainability showed us that the topic requires no more theoretical analysis, since entrepreneurs and companies have already assimilated the idea into their daily business. That’s what Braz Costa,

CITEVE’s general manager, says, for "there is no longer a sceptic who considers that sustainability in the day-to-day business is a fad. The question that is asked today to the Portuguese Textile and Clothing Industry (TCI) is: how to work the concept and its inherent options and practises". "Sustainability in fashion is no longer a thing for scientists or activists. Only sustainable fashion can be in fashion," he emphasizes, to convey the notion that the-


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“There’s pressure from young consumers over the brands. Even in China a strong debate on the subject is being held”

“Sustainability in fashion is not for scientists or activists anymore. Only sustainable fashion can be in fashion”

“It’s not a trend, but it could become more and more a fashion product”

“The need to acknowledge and assume the impact we cause as producers and consumers is imperative”

DOLORES GOUVEIA VALÉRIUS

BRAZ COSTA CITEVE’S GENERAL MANAGER

PAULO GOMES MANIFESTO MODA

DANIELA PAIS ELEMENTUM

re is no other way forward. Ana Silva, Tintex’s Head of Sustainability, believes that "sustainability has entered the fashion world, becoming one of the industry’s pillars and not just a fad. It brought new concepts, arousing curiosity among the most attentive ones. It is, at the moment, a catalyst for new solutions and business models, and a concept that spreads throughout the entire value chain". The subject is the core of

the question: sustainability went from being a tag pinned to a clothing item, to become a management system and a distinctive element among companies. “Turning sustainability into an intrinsic element of business development enables us to innovate in a responsible and inclusive manner, adding value to our products and services. It is an essential tool to keep our companies alive. It’s the present and it will be the future”, says Ana Silva.

Cristina Motta, Messe Frankfurt’s representative, considers that “no one still ignore that the future of the planet depends on us, on our ability to change practises that have long been established, from the way we consume to the way factories produce and how the products are distributed”. Cristina Motta raises the question of the business rationale as crucial: “the survival of the big manufacturers relies on their capability for sustainable

innovation. For the up-and-coming enterprises, sustainable production has become, with no shadow of a doubt, an opportunity to rapidly enter a market that is here to stay.” To Dolores Gouveia, responsible for the sustainability department at Valérius Group and for the Modtissimo’s Trends Forum, the times when sustainability was a mere buzzword are gone: “I believe that sustainability is not just a fad, but instead a macro tendency that has been gaining power and is evolving in qualitative and quantitative terms”. Or, in other words, sustainability is, nowadays, a matter of competition. The bet on sustainable practises could be a determining factor, from a corporate point of view, between making new businesses or not. “This movement was led, during an initial phase, by Northern European countries and brands, and it has been extended to other latitudes and currently even in China there is a strong debate on the subject”, points out Dolores Gouveia, adding that “there is a pressure from young consumers over brands”, which ends up having “a crucial role in making them rethink their way they act, putting pressure, in turn, in the entire supply chain regarding social and environmental ethical behaviour". She leaves an important message: “companies have to embrace a new paradigm because presenting collections with a range of sustainable products is just not enough; companies have to incorporate sustainability into all steps of their businesses. Furthermore, sustainability, in its environmental, social and eco-

nomic dimensions, has to be a part of the values and principles that drive the organizations. This paradigm shift implies, above all, a mindset shift from the companies’ top management”. Finally, she places the focus on the question’s essence: “what strikes me as a fad are companies delivering speeches about their sustainable products, an urge that comes from that pressure exerted by partners and clients. They are aware of the sustainable fashion potential”. For Daniela Pais, from Elementum, “the sustainability fad, like all fads, will go away, but sustainability will not! The need to acknowledge and assume the impact we cause as producers and consumers is imperative”. The designer believes that, “while it was in vogue, sustainability slowly began taking on a central role, leaving its mark in the fashion world. This is a macro-tendency that hasn’t reached its peak yet and, when it does, deep changes will follow”. Accordingly, Paulo Gomes, from Manifesto Moda and also the coordinator of Modtissimo’s Green Circle, also attests that sustainability is not a fad: “it’s an inevitable subject, which nobody can ignore. From digitalizing the (complex) production system to substantially reducing the production environment and social aggressiveness and choosing sustainable raw materials (fibre recycling or using bio-degradable fibres, for example), everything has to be treated with urgency and seriousness.” In conclusion: sustainability “is not a trend, but it could become more and more a fashion product”. t


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UNIFARDAS WANTS TO CONQUER FRANCE WITH A NEW IMAGE Unifardas enters 2019 with a new international strategy. The company changed its institutional image and is now launching of a new digital platform. A new logo, a new website and renewed catalogues are the main ingredients with which Unifardas expects to achieve a higher position in foreign markets, especially Spain and France.

15 new clients

new clients per year is the goal set by Valerius, which employs 135 workers and closed 2017 with a turnover of 38 million euros

José Alexandre Oliveira, Riopele’s CEO, at the company's headquarters, located in Castelões, Famalicão

RIOPELE, THE BRIGHT GREEN EXAMPLE Associated since birth, in 1927, to the colour green, Riopele continues to relate to the colour by betting on sustainability and circular economy. The company, one of Portugal’s textile giants, was chosen as the standard-bearer of the Famalicão Circular The industry’s new frontiers meeting, where the company's head of innovation, Albertina Reis, highlighted the many products created and patented by the company throughout almost a century, emphasizing their close cooperation with technology centres and universities. Nano Smart and R4Textiles were the most recent projects, which in collaboration with CITEVE, CeNTI and the Catholic University, allowed new textiles to be developed. The Cleon ®, a breathable, static energy absorbent and stain repellent fabric, or the Tenowa, a sustainable tex-

tile produced from food waste that is already in the market, are some examples. Despite being unfinished, says Albertina Reis, these under development projects should already represent a half million euros business for the company, but the goal is that by 2022, they represent 7% of Riopele's turnover. However, the company doesn’t’ slow down and it’s also investing one million euros in the construction of a photovoltaic solar plant, thus reinforcing its policy of sustainable production and environmental responsibility. This investment will allow a 14% savings on energy bills and an annual reduction of 689 tonnes of CO2 emissions. Located in Castelões, Famalicão, the power station will produce a significant percentage of the electrical energy required for one of the group's spinning production units. t

ATP PREPARES ITMF WORLD CONVENTION

FASHION SVP HIGHLIGHTS TRIWOOL'S SUSTAINABILITY

The ITMF (International Textile Manufacturers Federation) director was in Portugal to prepare its next convention, which will take place in October, in Oporto. Christian Schindler met with ATP’s general director, Paulo Vaz, and CITEVE general director, Braz Costa, to discuss the event's logistics, which brings to Portugal hundreds of textile entrepreneurs.

The Fashion SVP, one of the largest sourcing fairs in Europe, highlighted Triwool's environmental responsibility. The Portuguese brand, which has a team of 12 designers, is described as a producer of knitwear and Jersey clothing that is prepared to face the requirements of an ever-increasing sustainable code of conduct.

"The Portuguese Textile is a niche industry, known for quality, service, product engineering, technological innovation and design. Not for mass production and much less for the low prices" Paulo Melo ATP's President

LURDES SAMPAIO AND FOOT BY FOOT CREATE ORGANIC KNIT The Lurdes Sampaio textile joined forces with Foot By Foot to create an unprecedented product: an organic mesh, filled with recycled foam. "This is a pioneer project in Portugal. There is no recycled foam manufacturing in Portugal, so we had to import the raw material," explains Conceição Sá, Lurdes Sampaio’s textile engineer and CEO. The company makes sustainability one of its main trademarks and over the past few years has launched hundreds of new ecological structures. Today, more than 60% of the company’s stock consists of knits made from sustainable materials such as organic cotton and silk, tencel, cupro, or even yak hair, recently introduced by Inovafil.


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Exhibitions & Logistics EMPOWER YOUR BRAND

3D & CONSTRUCTION | DECORATION AND AMBIENCE | DESIGN & COMMUNICATION | EVENTS & ACTIVATIONS We give strength to your brand We want to help you promote your business and create value in a national and international context. We materialize your idea, with creativity, with dedication and with a multidisciplinary experience of over 20 years in the industry, through communication, exhibition and events solutions in various parts of the globe.

We follow the trends with your brand. info@kislog.pt www.kislog.pt

facebook.com/Kislog.create.events www.linkedin.com/company/kislog-logistics-solutions


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THE BILL, PLEASE Praça

Rua João Pinto de Azevedo 171 Urbanização de Talvai 4760-446 Famalicão

Appetizers Alheira (traditional meat sausage) with kale, sautéed mushrooms, tuna bread and blood sausage Dish Veal chops with beans, white rice and sweet potatoes Dessert Laminated pineapple Drinks ‘Cabeço de Senhora’ white wine, water and coffee

Ana Ribeiro

She was raised in São Mamede de Infesta, where she attended primary and high school. The choice for Engineering might have had to do with her father, an Electro Mechanic engineer, and her older brother, who studied Mechanical Engineering. She thought of Chemical Engineering, but she ended up going for Metallurgical and Materials Engineering, in a small class: they were 24 and mostly girls. She started her professional career in the academic world (3B Project) before going into the industry (approximately three years at Sicor, in Cortegaça), and settling in Famalicão, where she connected research and the industry in organizations such as CITEVE, CeNTI and Cluster Textile. Married to a lawyer, they live in Foz do Douro and have two kids (a nine-year-old girl and a fiveyear-old boy).

THE GREAT ENABLER

RUI APOLINÁRIO

43 YEARS OLD CLUSTER TÊXTIL’S CEO

A very important Mexican entrepreneur, a hotel industry supplier, was in Portugal looking for wines and showed interest in seeing home textiles. Once the news spread, Inovcluster (Agro-Industrial Cluster of Central Portugal) notified the Cluster Têxtil, who immediately set up an evening of meetings, at CITEVE, between the Mexican entrepreneur and the Portuguese home textile manufacturers. This is just one of the many sides of the job that Ana Ribeiro has been developing for the past year. She left CeNTI’s Business Development, which she led, to become the Cluster Textil’s CEO, turning her full attention to a sector that, thanks to her family, she knew well (her father was an engineer in companies like Lionesa, Vaz Ferreira or Cotesi). “What’s my job? Well, I’m an enabler, I open the doors, create opportunities, I lobby nationally and internationally, encourage partnerships, galvanize the activity of the nine work groups...”, Ana enumerates, looking as if she is still missing a few things to finish her job description. Informally, Cluster Têxtil already

exists for about a century, having the city of Famalicão, where Ana brought us for lunch, as its headquarters. Her first thought was to try out Cheers (“I really like tapas”, she confessed), but it was closed for the holydays, compelling her to go to plan B instead. However, the Cluster Têxtil only exists officially since it was acknowledged by the Government, a year ago, “in a very beautiful session, at Terreiro do Paço”. Cluster Têxtil took off formally with 54 members, an open group (meanwhile two others joined in – ICC Lavoro and Anivec) coordinated by a High-Level Assembly, which Ana doesn’t hesitate to describe as “an extraordinary group at the uppermost level”, who greatly contribute to her work. Ana’s job is also to help change mentalities, in a business culture whose dominant trait is individualism. Nobody is used to sharing their experience or knowledge with the ones that could be the competition – whereas they could and should be partners instead. Convincing the entrepreneurs about the benefits of a partnership is

probably Ana’s toughest mission. “If we fly together, in formation, we can go farther”, states Cluster Têxtil’s CEO, a strong-willed woman that held several small gigs in advertising while studying in FEUP (like handing out promotional flyers for a soap opera, in Leiria, or promoting Parmalat milk in supermarkets) to gather enough money to buy a Honda CB 250 motorcycle. The 174 people’s involvement across the nine work groups is a sure sign that Cluster Têxtil is following – full steam ahead – the right path. The destination is everywhere: they have extended their presence into other sectors, such as health, automotive or construction industries. Examples? “We heard Weber/Saint Gobain was looking for a better insulating material for roof covers. Straight away, showed up a socks manufacturer capable and decided to solve the problem. So, we are going to hook-up several suppliers with the construction company”, concludes Ana Ribeiro, in the process of thoroughly performing her task as the great enabler – or, if you will, the great matchmaker :-). t


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Rua do Cruzeiro, 170 R/C | 4620-404 Nespereira - Lousada - PORTUGAL | T. 255 815 384 / 385 | F. 255 815 386 | E. geral@qualityimpact.pt


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SCOOP AND TMG: TEXTILE AMBASSADORS AT THE UN

MAGIC LAS VEGAS SAYS: “YES…PORTUGAL!” Portugal will be at the forefront at Magic Las Vegas. The North American fashion and clothing fair, scheduled for February 4th to 7th, has reserved a prominent space in front of the sourcing pavilion for the Portuguese companies, an honour that will help promote Portugal’s image and business. "Yes...Portugal!" is the sector’s title, where the image of quality producing, innovative and service provider country will be highlighted.

"We are at ease to make not only an anti-static laboratory suit, but also a military anti-bullet suit, a school garment or a catering uniform" Clementina Freitas CEO do grupo Latino

Isabel Furtado, the woman behind TMG Automotive ‘s wheel, stands that UN’s values are part of the DNA of the company she leads

Pointed out as examples of commercial and sustainable success, Scoop and TMG Automotive are the Portuguese textile industry representatives at the UN Global Compact, a United Nations initiative that brings together companies that stand for human rights and the environment. This is a unique recognition that gives strength to this textile company’s strategy. The presence on the Committee is reserved exclusively for companies with given proof of their fight for a fairer and more sustainable society. So far, with applications coming from all over the world, only nine thousand companies have met the criteria set by the UN. To be accepted, Scoop and TMG Automotive had to give a full description of their actions and show how they integrate the United Nations’ values into their policy. "We are committed to including the UN prin-

ciples in our strategy, our culture and our day-to-day business," wrote Isabel Furtado, TMG Automotive’s CEO, in her application letter, addressed to António Guterres, United Nations’ Secretary-General. Mafalda Pinto, Scoop’s CEO, renewed the company’s commitment in the application letter: "we have adopted a policy of public accountability and transparency, aligned with the principles of the UN Global Compact”. This recognition also means a higher level of demand. From now on, the presence of the two companies in the Committee will be re-evaluated every year, based on the 10 universal principles of the Global Compact. With this initiative, the UN hopes to change the business world and gain a renewed strength in environmental preservation and in the struggle for a more balanced society. t

POLOPIQUE IS ONE OF EUROPE’S MOST INSPIRING SMES The London Stock Exchange says that Polopique is among Europe’s most dynamic and fastest growing companies. A thousand companies to inspire Europe, that’s how it’s called the list that includes ten Portuguese SMEs and is presented annually by the London Stock Exchange. With an annual turnover of more than 110 million euros, Polopique is one of the main references in the Portuguese textile sector and one of the country’s rare complete vertical units. It has a daily production capacity of more than 100 thousand pieces and exports almost 100% of its production, standing out as the main supplier of polo shirts for the Inditex group. Numbers that don’t stop growing.

Based in Vizela, in 2018 Polopique invested more than 10 million euros in the recovery of an old factory in Moreira de Cónegos, creating another spinning unit that reinforces the company’s empire, which started in the 1990s with only half a dozen employees. Nowadays, it has more than 1000 and has its business strategy recognized by the London Stock Exchange. Polopique is the Portuguese textile industry’s only representative among the 10 SMEs that inspire Europe (last year the honour was awarded to Parfois) in a list that includes Simoldes Plastics, Sogrape Vinhos, Perfumes & Companhia, Nabeiro Group, Riberalves, Pestana Hotel, Cerealis, Couro Azul and Egeo.t

ZIPPY OPENS TWO STORES IN BRAZIL

ALEXANDRA MOURA FOCUSED ON THE EAST

A ZIPPY has just strengthened its international presence by opening the brand’s first stores in Brazil. The new openings at the Morumbi Shopping and Shopping Tamboré reinforced the brand's focus on internationalization and especially in the Latin American market, where it now has nine stores, spread across Brazil, Venezuela and the Dominican Republic.

Alexandra Moura is getting closer to the eastern markets: "There is an attraction between Portugal and Asia, which goes from the silhouettes to fabric overlap," said the designer, to whom international markets are increasingly important. Currently, Alexandra sells in three stores in Japan, two in China, one in Kuwait, one in Spain and another in Portugal.

2,5 million

euros is the amount that Gierlings Velpor is investing in equipment, a program that will be completed in May and will allow it to almost double sales, which in 2018 reached nine million euros

LAMEIRINHO AND MODATEX SUPPORT GUINEA-BISSAU’S CHILDREN

Lameirinho provided the fabric, MODATEX the labour and the result is a range of children's products - which includes 16 sets of sheets with pillow cases, 16 nappies and 36 bibs - that promise to put a smile on the face of the children of Casa Emanuel, a humanitarian shelter institution for children in Guinea-Bissau. The articles made by the trainees of the Seamstress and Dressmaker course, which took place at Celorico da Beira.


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[CASSIANO FERRAZ] www.cassianoferraz.com

PHOTOGRAPHY FASHION / ADVERTISING


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n INTERVIEW Ricardo Fernandes The Cães de Pedra Group’s CEO – a company with two brands (Lion of Porches and Decenio), 600 employees and 50 million euros in sales – is 58 years old and was born and raised in Guimarães, where he currently lives. He’s the oldest of Herculano Fernandes’ – the owner of “Herculano & Pimenta” warehouse – ten children. As a young boy, he got used to helping around in the warehouse during the holidays. The apple didn’t fall far from the tree, and so he decided to continue working in the company after finishing high school. Married, has three children: Ricardo (already working with him), Maria João (a lawyer) and Nuno (a postgraduate student in Hospitality Management).

"WE'RE GROWING DOUBLE-DIGITS ONLINE"

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e don’t shut the door on the possibility of owning more brands. We’re alert and prepared to grow, but for now the number one priority is to consolidate what we have” – states Ricardo Fernandes, 58, the Cães de Pedra Group’s CEO. Was evolving from industry to specialized retail an opportunity or a strategy?

I would say both simultaneously. The opportunity to keep the Lion of Porches brand arose – back then they were our clients. We had a feeling that we needed to diversify, to add another business branch to the company. That was the answer to our strategic plans. In 2007, the year you got Lion of Porches, the Textile and Clothing Industry (TCI) was going through a very difficult period. Was that part of the reason?

Our industry was going through a rough patch, with margins dropping frighteningly, so we had to explore other business alternatives, such as developing our own brand and betting on specialized retail. For a while you maintained both activities. Do you regret having discontinued your industry?

We were facing competitiveness issues. We had to focus our energy and resources on one single branch of business. A commercial enterprise can never be dependent on a single factory. It must have the liberty to look for the best product at the best price. Was it a hard decision?

There was a sentimental aspect, but we can’t let it affect a decision process that must be 100% rational. The industry was a beautiful thing, but most of all there was the question of space – in Guimarães we didn’t have the facilities that allowed the growth of both activities. Was specialized retail a goal?

The margins are greater, but the challenges, the risks and the investment you need to make are also great. That’s not why we changed. We knew we couldn’t hold on to the machines we had.

PHOTO: RUI APOLINÁRIO

Portugal is good at manufacturing, but bad in distribution and in brand development, unlike Spain. Weren’t you afraid to take that step?

We were aware of the great responsibility we were undertaking. We knew that building a brand was very different from managing a common traditional business. There’s a huge restraint to begin with: our internal market is too small. Is building your own brand expensive?

Developing your brand is much more demanding than working in the indus-


February 2019

try. It requires huge investments in notoriety and visibility. To have a soul and a personality of its own is crucial and to be a cohesive project with an adequate strategy is too. Did Lion of Porches have a soul?

Yes, it already had a defined style that we tried to improve and sophisticate. We gave it an even greater ‘British’ character. It became all about the ‘look’. We expanded to the children’s segment, ventured in internationalization and created store chain. Is it impossible to build a brand without owning stores?

Before, Lion of Porches only existed in the multi-brand channels. Opening own stores is the key to gaining visibility, size and to understand the client in a deeper way. We have to be able to understand the client’s – to know if he’s happy in the clothes we make. Is internationalization vital?

There’s no alternative, not with a narrow internal market such as ours. It’s an enormous challenge that bears many risks, but it had to be taken. We can’t grow further in our country, so we have to grow abroad, full steam ahead. Has your presence in the internal market matured or is there something more to do?

We can make some adjustments to our chain and open a physical location here and there. In Portugal, we manage 40 stores, five outlets, two corner shops at El Corte Inglés and we are present in 94 multi-brand commercial spaces. How is your international geography?

The expansion naturally began in Spain, where we own twelve corner shops at El Corte Inglés and two additional brand stores. Our internationalization strategy consists in partnering with local franchisors, in markets where we can reach some level of notoriety. Is that strategy that explains your presence in markets like Iran, Georgia or Lebanon?

Abroad, in addition to our El Corte Inglés corner shops in Spain, we manage a chain of 19 stores in nine different countries, a geography that also includes some mature markets: Spain, Luxembourg or Sweden, where we opened a store at the end of August, in Stockholm. Isn’t that contradictory?

No. We have to be flexible. We never venture alone to a new country; we always associate with a local partner. Whenever we come across an interesting partner in a given country, we seize that opportunity. That’s what happened in Sweden, where we will also develop the multi-brand and digital channel strategy. Are you pleased with what you have achieved at Lion of Porches?

There is still plenty of work ahead, but I believe we have reached a good credibility level and that Lion of Porches is now an established lifestyle associated brand with a ‘British’ and sporty look.

Why did you purchase a second brand, Decenio, four years ago?

The retail began displaying interesting growth rates, so we decided to increase our presence not only by expanding Lion of Porches, but also by acquiring another brand, Decenio. Did you also have to come up with a soul for Decenio?

Yes, to find it a style, a personality. The challenge is to show the consumers that the brand is different from all the others and not just another brand.

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realized that the two will coexist. The notoriety of a digital store depends on a physical presence in the market, so it can be known and looked up online. Is that the way?

The two channels of business complement each other. One requires a presence in the market to gain visibility and to stand out among the millions of online-only brands. We have been witnessing big digital groups buying and setting up physical locations because they need to have an actual presence in the market.

the questions of José Cardoso O Segredo do Mar’s CEO

Tricky challenge?

Tricky, but essential. Decenio was a brand that compelled us to make big investments in remodelling the physical stores and evolving the brand’s concept. We had to find it a new path, a different style, to give it something other brands don’t have.

How are your online sales?

What is the Decenio style?

How are you collecting and processing data in order to understand what the consumer wants?

The brand’s collection attempts to reflect a Mediterranean style, inspired by southern European experiences, a casual chic and a laid back lifestyle. Our main concern has been the correct interpretation of the Mediterranean concept, to be able to transmit it in our clothes. Has that goal been reached yet?

We had to fix a few things along the way, which are natural growing pains. Our goals haven’t been 100% accomplished yet, but we know what we have and what we want. What do you want?

The most important is for the brand to have a personality and its own style. We own 30 stores, all in Portugal, with an 18 million euros turnover. We predict that, within two years, the project will be consolidated in Portugal, and we will be able to kick-off Decenio’s internationalization. How does Decenio’s image relate to Lion of Porches?

Lion of Porches is a more sporty clothes brand, very connected to the ‘British’ and nautical styles. Decenio’s style is more contemporary classical, laid back, therefore a broader concept. Are you done yet or do you need more brands?

We don’t shut the door on the possibility of owning more brands. We are alert and we will always evaluate any opportunity that arises in the market. The segment of the new brand has been identified. Will it be acquired or created from scratch?

Maybe a more economical brand, but I still don’t know. We are closely following the market’s opportunities, and we’re ready to grow with the group’s move from Guimarães to Vila do Conde. For now, however, the number one priority is consolidating what we have. Is the online sales’ exponential growth a threat to brick-and-mortar businesses?

For a while there were those who feared that, but these days everyone has

Very good. We’re growing double-digits and we’ve reached very interesting volumes. Through this channel we’ve been able to sell in markets that would have never crossed our minds.

We have a specialized team that permanently monitors all gathered data, to understand in real time the impact of our proposals. Does having your own stores make it easier?

What are the expectations for the online business?

Online sales are growing at a very encouraging pace. They already make up 10% of Decenio’s sales volume and 15% of Lion of Porches’. Our ambition is to rapidly reach the 20% to 30% mark. International expansion has proved difficult for Portuguese brands, but inevitable for sustainable medium term longevity. What projects does ‘Cães de Pedra’ textile has for their brand portfolio?

It does, we ultimately feel the business and the evolution of sales better, but remarkably the most valuable sources of information are the multi-brand channels, which allow us to compare the performance of our collections against other brands. The multi-brand retailer knows, straight away, why an item doesn’t sell: because of the price, the wear or any other reason.

We have a very consistent international expansion project, with well-identified markets and delineated strategies. We know this is the group’s future since it’s impossible to survive and prosper if we’re too exposed to the domestic market.

What is the critical factor in a store’s success?

Paulo Melo ATP's President

Presenting good collections, being a desirable brand and having great employees. Human resources are increasingly important in a store, they have to be our clients’ fashion advisors. Is the interaction with the customer a key issue?

The human component is crucial. We have been working closely with shop coordinators to improve customer service, so that it’s done with attitude and pleasure to sell. What percentage of your purchases are made in Portugal?

Around 70%. Above all, we buy that amount because of the quality. If it were only for the price, we would get everything abroad. Still, we insist on not letting our client down. This is precisely why we have just created a quality control department – a team of four people that exhaustively test all our products before they are put on the market. How do you evaluate our TCI?

Very positively. It’s now more modern, more available to follow the latest trends and it’s flexible, being able to produce small quantities with a very high quality, setting themselves apart from the Asian competition. t

With the broad knowledge you have on the sector, how do you envision the future evolution of the Portuguese TCI?

I am optimistic. I think the current industry is very well-prepared for future challenges. Whoever went through and overcame the difficult years we’ve had will most certainly be able to evolve and respond to the market’s new demands. What is your perspective on Lion of Porches’ future growth? Will you invest more in Men or Women’s fashion?

Lion of Porches still has to settle its position in Portugal and to grow in the international markets. That will be our greatest challenge. Our goal is to be a brand that can dress up an entire family, so the three segments – man, woman and kids – will have to balance each other, as they are all important and complementary.


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airs schedule

FIMI February 1st to 3rd – Madrid Baby Gi, Beppi, Dreampassion Baby Clothes, És parte de mim, FS Baby, Mary Tale, Mimi Chic, Ponto por Ponto ISPO February 3rd to 6th – Munique 4 Teams, A. Fiúza, A.Sampaio & Filhos, Barcelcom, Bergand by Gulbena, Carvema Têxtil, CeNTI - Centre for Nanotechnology and Smart Materials, CITEVE, Clothius, Dune Bleue, Faria da Costa, Fiorima, FLM Textil, Fradelsport, Heliotextil, IDEPA, Impetus Portugal, J.Caetano & Filhas, Lemar, Lipaco, LMA, NGS Malhas, Oldtrading, Olmac, Onda, P&R Têxteis, Ropar, Sidónios Seamless Tech, Sit – Seamless Industrial Technologies, Smart Inovation, Tapa Costuras, Têxtil António Falcão, Têxtil Sancar, Wat, Identity FC MAGIC February 4th to 7th – Las Vegas Adalberto Estampados, Becri, Silva & Irmãos, Trendymystery, My Shirt MILANO ÚNICA February 5th to 7th – Milão Albano Morgado, Familitex, Lemar, Otojal, RDD, Sanmartin, Adalberto Estampados, Riopele INTERGIFT February 6th to 10th – Madrid Dilina Têxteis, DKT – OPIBRANDS, DolceCasa, Rio Sul CIC, Têxteis Lar S. José, Têxteis Iris MOMAD February 8th to 10th – Madrid Averse, Blackspider, Concreto / Valérius, Cotton Brothers, Faroma/ Maloka, Givec, Karlek, Lion of Porches, Loco Luxo, Lovely Arcade, Luis Buchinho, Pé de Chumbo, Scripta, Scusi, Simple Change/Sal de Pipa, South Fashion Brands INDX February 10th and 11th – Birmingham FS Baby, Just Lovely, Mom(e) PURE LONDON February 10th to 12th - Londres Boon Clothes, Little Nothing, Beppi, Orfama, Temasa PREMIÈRE VISION February 12th to 14th – Paris Fabrics - A Sampaio, A Textil Serzedelo / Texser , Acatel, Adalberto Estampados, Albano Morgado, Avelana, Etexba, Familitex, Gierlings Velpor, Joaps, Lemar, LMA, Luis Azevedo, Lurdes Sampaio, NGS Malhas, Otojal, Paulo de Oliveira, Penteadora, RDD, Riopele, Sidónios, Somelos, Tessimax Tintex, TMG, Trimalhas, Troficolor Accessories - Bordados Oliveira, Envicorte, Idepar Yarns - Fifitrofa, J.F.Almeida, MAF/Filasa, SMBM, Têxtil António Falcão Manufacturing - J. Caetano & filhas, R.Lobo, Siena, Soeiro Centro Têxtil, Toddler Portugal, Triwool Knitwear - Orfama CPM MOSCOVO February 25th to 28th – Moscovo Cristina Barros, Blackspider by Cristina Barros, Beppi

POZNAN FASHION FAIR March 5th e 6th – Poznan Blackspider, Cristina Barros, GIVEC, Lion of Porches JITAC March 26th to 28th – Tóquio A Textil de Serzedelo, Fitecom, Lemar, Otojal, TrendBurel, Riopele, Somelos

GUEST NATION TITLE ATTRACTS BUYERS AND JOURNALISTS The 95th edition of Pitti Uomo will go down in Portuguese Fashion history as a moment of International recognition. Portugal was the “Guest Nation”, and the Portuguese brands and designers embraced this moment with enthusiasm and dedication. From the first moment, Portugal’s space at Pitti Uomo established itself as a mandatory stopping point for all the buyers. In addition to new contacts and orders, the “Guest Nation” title also brought along the public’s and the international press recognition. “It has a very big impact. Portugal is mentioned in several newspapers and magazines. Apart from the sales, it’s also great for Portugal’s image”, explains Manuel Serrão, Associação Selectiva Moda’s (ASM) CEO. As guest country, nine Portuguese brands occupied a privileged space at the fair, located in the main pavilion, and Portuguese fashion was the main subject of a promotion program developed by the Italian fair’s organization. Caiágua, Ecola, Hugo Costa, Ideal & Co, Labuta, Nycole, West and Westmister (in the photo) were the brands that made up the “Guest Na-

tion” space. But the Portuguese delegation was also formed by Dielmar, Mano Studio and +351 Designed in Lisbon, which had their own stands. During the show, all the Portuguese brands met up with new clients and managed to open new business prospects. Dielmar, for example, has closed some new orders for the main European markets and met a potential distributor for Pakistan. “Since the first day, our stand has been always full of visitors, from all around the world”, stated Pedro Certã, the company’s International Market Manager. Mano Studio also closed some new deals for very different destinations such as Korea, China and Mexico. “Our goal is to spread our products and create brand awareness” explained Fernando Figueiredo, Mano Studio’s spokesman. +351 Designed in Lisbon focused itself in the European markets and met some potential distributors to new regions of Italy and Germany. In the end, Portugal has seized the “Guest Nation” status to give a clear statement: Portuguese designers have a lot to offer to the international markets. t

MAISON & OBJET: PORTUGUESE DESIGN AT IT FINEST The last edition of Maison & Objet showcased a unique entourage of Portuguese brands. From home textiles to furniture, Portugal gave strong signs of its commitment to set new trends and mark its presence in the international markets. Between January 18th and 22nd, more than a dozen of Portuguese companies traveled to Paris, to attend Maison & Objet, one of the most important international fairs for home design and lifestyle. Carapau, Deartis, Ditto, 3DCork, Byfly, Laborató-

rio D’Estórias, Lasa Home, Sugo Cork Rugs, Têxteis Iris, Traços de Mim, Trendburel and Vasicol were the companies that made up the “From Portugal” entourage. The exhibition was a success from day one. The Portuguese stands were visited by international buyers, agents and designers and in the end, every company returned to Portugal with new business prospects. “I’m very happy. We were visited by some of our best clients, and meet new ones at the fair”,

said Susana Godinho, co-founder of Sugo Cork Rugs, a Portuguese brand that uses cork to make rugs. At Maison&Objet, Sugo Cork Rugs closed its first orders to Lebanon. Carapau, a Portuguese Brand of handcrafted home products also closed its first orders to Switzerland and established some promising contacts in Japan. In general, all the Portuguese companies had very busy days at the show and made some new contacts, matching some of their most important commercial goals. t


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1. PAULO MELO AND PAULO VAZ MEET THE STATE SECRETARIES AT THE DOOR, ACCOMPANIED BY CRISTINA MOTTA (MESSE FRANKFURT), THE TOUR’S CICERONE

2. MARIA ALBERTA CANIZES EXPLAINS THE WORK OF HOME FROM PORTUGAL TO THE ENTOURAGE

THE FUTURE IS UNCERTAIN Uncertainty is the only certainty. Heimtextil 19 broke yet another record in the number of exhibitors (3025 from 65 countries), but the number of professional visitors dropped from 70 thousand to 67500. There were fewer people in the hallways of Messe Frankfurt, and the fingers on both hands aren’t enough to count the number of Portuguese companies who drew harsh criticism towards the fair’s new layout, which placed the heavy-weight of our home textile amidst mid and low-range Turkish and Egyptian manufacturers.

5. “WE’LL BE DOING BUSINESS BEFORE LUNCHTIME”, EXPLAINED THE SOUTH KOREAN CUSTOMER AFTER MEETING WITH ANA VAZ PINHEIRO, AT THE MUNDOTÊXTIL STAND, WHEN THE ENTOURAGE ARRIVED

6. ALBANO COELHO LIMA TALKS WITH STATE SECRETARIES, AT THE LAMEIRINHO STAND

10. IN HER FIRST MORNING AS AN ABSOLUTE DEBUTANTE IN FAIRS, MARIZÉ WAS EXHILARATED – SHE HAD ALREADY MADE PROMISING CONTACTS WITH CHINESE AND CANADIAN CLIENTS

12. MARTA MOTA PREGO DESCRIBED GUIMARÃES MARCA’S ACTIVITY TO THE SECRETARIES OF STATE


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4. “ALL OUR NORTH-AMERICAN CUSTOMERS ASK US TO HIGHLIGHT THE MADE IN PORTUGAL PROVENANCE, NOT ONLY ON THE LABEL, BUT ALSO ON THE PACKAGING”, REVEALS MIGUEL CHARNECA, FROM NEWPLAIDS

3. FAMILY PHOTO – PAULO MELO AND PAULO VAZ (ATP), EURICO BRILHANTE DIAS AND JOÃO CORREIA NUNES (SECRETARIES OF STATE FOR INTERNATIONALIZATION AND FOR ECONOMY) AND JOÃO GOMES (AMBASSADOR IN BERLIN) – IN ONE OF THE TWO FROM PORTUGAL BY SELECTIVA MODA FORUMS

9. “IN THE TEXTILE BUSINESS WE CAN NEVER REST, NOR TAKE SUCCESS FOR GRANTED”, SAID MÁRIO JORGE MACHADO (ADALBERTO). “JUST LIKE IN POLITICS”, RETORTED BRILHANTE DIAS

7. “NEXT YEAR WE’LL BRING A BOTTLE OF CHAMPAGNE TO COMMEMORATE YOUR 30TH PARTICIPATION”, PROMISED EURICO BRILHANTE DIAS, WHEN CARLOS CARVALHO (COTON COULEUR) CONFIDED THAT THIS WAS HIS 29TH HEIMTEXTIL

8. T’S NEW INTERNATIONAL EDITION WAS ON DISPLAY IN THE SPACE DEDICATED TO SPECIALIZED PRESS

12. FEATURED AT THE HOME FLAVOURS STAND, A BEDDING FABRIC MADE FROM VISCOSE AND ROSE STEMS BY SOMELOS

13. THE POWERFUL PORTUGUESE PRESENCE AT HEIMTEXTIL DID NOT GO UNNOTICED IN THE FACEBOOK PAGE OF THE MINISTRY OF FOREIGN AFFAIRS

14. THE NEXT HEIMTEXTIL IS ALREADY SCHEDULED – JANUARY 7TH TO 10TH, 2020. WILL THE 12, THE CONTROVERSIAL PAVILION, CONTINUE TO HOST PORTUGUESE, TURKISH AND EGYPTIAN COMPANIES UNDER THE SAME ROOF?


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X MY PRODUCT by António Gonçalves

Baselayer Seaqual Mesh A. SAMPAIO & FILHOS What is it? A fibre that incorporates yarn made of trash recovered from the sea What is it for? To provide a sustainable alternative for the Textile Industry Project Status Undergoing commercialization

MOMAD COMBINES TEXTILE AND FOOTWEAR Momad, Fashion in Madrid: it’s how is called the Ifema event that from now on will join textile and footwear, linking two fairs - Momad Metrópolis and Momad Shoes. The next edition is scheduled for February 8th to 10th, and in addition to joining textiles and footwear, the fair also overlaps with Bisutex, MadridJoya and Intergift, the jewellery and decoration fairs.

SONAE STRENGTHENS POSITION IN LATIN AMERICA THROUGH LOSAN The Losan store chain, acquired by the Sonae group in 2015, is at the centre of the Portuguese group expansion to Latin America. In a strategy outlined for 2019, the company plans to enter Ecuador and strengthen its presence in Mexico and Colombia. Present in more than 40 countries, in own stores or multi-brand spaces, and with a turnover of around 60 million euros, Losan has an international plan that intends to expand to South America, the United States, Canada and India.

75 %

of Bovi’s sales are made abroad, in medium and high-end multi-brand stores in 30 countries

LATINO PRESENTS INNOVATIVE FIREFIGHTER SUIT

The sustainable fibre that comes from the ocean More than sustainable, the new A.Sampaio & Filhos’ project is the circular economy in its purest form. The raw materials with which they produce their Baselayer Seaqual fibre can be found in the Mediterranean Sea, in the form of plastic waste, and it’s already being used by the clothing industry. The Santo Tirso’s company isn’t just presenting the market with a sustainable alternative, but it is also helping to clean the oceans. The residues that pile up in the ocean floors are a growing concern for environmentalists. It is estimated that, annually, 8 million tons of rubbish are thrown into the sea, and about 75% of this debris never leaves ocean floor, making it a permanent graveyard. A.Sampaio’s goal is to recycle this waste and transform it into new clothing items. Each kilo of Seaqual fibre corresponds to a kilo of plastics collected from the bottom of the ocean. Spanish fishermen gather the residues and then the fibre is developed abroad, before it can be integrated into A.Sampaio knitting. The company ensures that the entire supply chain is monitored. Miguel Mendes, A.Sampaio & Filhos’

Marketing Manager, reveals that sustainability has been, for several years now, a concern for the company. When the word of this new technology got out, they decided to incorporate it and start producing with this new fibre. “Baselayer stands out as the fabric with the highest proportion of this fibre – 40% of Seaqual PES and 60% organic cotton –, although we develop customized solutions as well”, he explains. At this point in time, when the circular economy is seen as the future and a growing number of consumers show environmental concerns, it won’t come as a surprise the fact that this solution is taking the market by storm. “It has had a great acceptance, especially on behalf of outdoor brands, which are more open to this idea, but also for rougher sports clothing, like crossfit”, details Miguel Mendes. Determined to invest in the circular economy, Santo Tirso’s company – that currently employs around 200 people and promises to continue investing in new sustainable solutions – claims to have even more sustainable fibres to present to the market. t

Latino is doing a roadshow to present an innovative firefighter suit developed in partnership with Critical Software and the University of Minho’s 2C2T technological centre. The project has already a European patent. With sensors embedded in the textile structure, the firefighter suit provides information on the location and vital signs of the user - heart rate, body temperature, and perspiration, among others.

"Success is not about being smarter, more hardworking or insightful. It’s all about adapting easily to change" João Carvalho Fitecom's CEO

SALSA PRESENTS THE JEANS OF THE MOMENT It’s the new Salsa’s jeans model and promises to conquer the female audience. The Portuguese denim brand has launched the Sliming It, a female model presented as the jeans of the moment, designed for all women, regardless of style or body type. In the Sliming range, Salsa already had the Diva model, known for thinning the waist and correcting the posture.


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M EMERGENTE by José Augusto Moreira

Isabel Miranda Olmac's Product Developer & CBO Assistant Family Shares a house with her boyfriend João Macedo (photographer), “for now no kids, but one never knows…” Education A Laboratorial Sciences and Public Health (CESPU) degree, “but halfway through it I reckoned I wasn’t cut out for the Health sector” House A two-bedroom flat in Famalicão’s city centre Car BMW 1 Series Laptop Windows Surface Mobile Phone iPhone 6 S Hobbies Trips to the gym, to the cinema and abroad. “Now I love to walk and play with my nephew” (Manuel, 2 years old) Holidays Usually accompanies her family to beach destinations. Last year went to Mexico and New York Golden Rule “Enjoy the present, always certain that the future will be even better”

PHOTO: RUI APOLINÁRIO

Fashion was her passion Some things are intuitive. One can sense them, even if unable to provide a clear or immediate explanation. That’s what happens the moment you set foot at Olmac. Right there and then, you feel that something has to do with Isabel Miranda’s fresh and dynamic youth. For the moment she is a sort of dauphin in the company her paternal grandparents founded in the days following the 1974 April Revolution. However, her resume could easily mislead us. Some say her calling was something outside the textile industry. Her career had gravitated around the Health sector, but it’s general knowledge that appearances are deceptive and not always portray the essence of reality. In fact, she did work in the field, but her passion for fashion changed her life compass. “I have always liked style and trends. Fashion has always been a passion”, she explains, even though her academic choices initially took her in another direction. Maybe it was because her sister (Catarina, four years older than her) was about to conclude a degree in Medicine, or even, who knows, because it enabled her to stay close to the factory where she had been wandering around since she was little, together with her parents and grandparents that today she accompanies in the company’s management. After completing high school – at Instituto Nun’Álvares Pereira, known as the ‘School of Caldinhas’ – the option for the Health field, with a degree of Laboratorial Sciences and Public Health, at CESPU, seemed like the right choice. Yet fashion never got out of her head. She was already halfway through the course when she sat down with her parents to let them know that her instinct was telling her otherwise. “It was all very peaceful, it was a very easy-going conversation”, she recalls. “I understood that it wasn’t what I wanted for my future, that I had to change in order to be happy”, and they arranged a first work experience at Olmac. Which didn’t last until today only because, in the meantime, she decided to explore the textile industry by undertaking mini-internships in the knitting, embroideries, moulds and dye work areas. As if it wasn’t enough, she even took a Styling and Image Consulting course “to add knowledge to the already acquired know-how”. A mere two years later, in 2012, she launched her own t-shirt brand, which she entirely conceived and designed. “I had wanted to establish my own project since the very beginning. I had everything at my disposal, even my parents’ help and crucial support. It was meant to be”, she adds. DeBlanc was born, but the problem was that it went all too well – “it reached a 30 thousand euro sales during the first year” –, and decisions had to be made: “I couldn’t just drop the main project. I was already in the company for two years and at first DeBlanc was meant to be a side project that eventually escalated to excessive proportions and had to be put aside”. Today, Isabel dedicates her heart and soul to Olmac. “I started from scratch like anybody else. I’m a saleswoman, I have a few customers under my direct responsibility, I attend fairs and represent the company”. The plan is to gradually accrue the responsibilities of her father, Orlando Miranda, at the head of the company. For now, all eyes are set on private label, but she also runs two experienced in-house brands. Olmac, which is consistently a huge success in fairs like Ispo, in Germany, “just by showing what we can do”; and DeBlanc, which “is on standby, but who knows if one day it will rise again”. It’s suffice to see the spark in Isabel Miranda’s eyes when she speaks about DeBlanc’s “basic collection of prints and appealing packaging” to understand that fashion has always been her passion. Just like when you set foot at Olmac. There is a modern look, a pure style, loose and welcoming, which immediately lingers and is soon felt. Even lacking any sort of explanation. It’s just intuition. t


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MY COMPANY Scoop – Scorecode textiles Rua Alto da Senra 344 4760-443 Cavalões Vila Nova de Famalicão

What does it do? It’s a strategic partner in technical clothing manufacturing for some of the world’s biggest sports brands Foundation 1991 Workers Approximately 120 Export Present in 22 countries. The Netherlands and the UK are the main markets, but it’s also present in distant geographies such as India and Japan Annual turnover 10 million euros

BECRI INVESTS THREE MILLION AND PURCHASES GUBEC The Becri group is investing more than three million euros in the acquisition and expansion of Gubec - i&d in Textiles, which employs around 70 people and exports all of its production. Already in operation, Gubec will expand its facilities and reorganize the industrial plant, creating a more efficient layout. Following this investment, Gubec will hire between 30 and 50 new employees and increase its sales.

"We are not obsessed with numbers. For us, what matters is the customer service and the profit" Carlos Serra Troficolor's CEO

ANA PAULA RAFAEL IS AN EXPORT LEADER After leading Dielmar for more than a decade, Ana Paula Rafael is now one of the four women who "export more than 40 million euros". In this textile company, the exports are worth 62% of the 13 million turnover, but the goal is to reach 80%. When she first came to the company, the Portuguese market was responsible for 64% of sales and Spain for 20%, but Ana Paula Rafael tried to focus her management towards internationalization. The brand is now present in 20 countries, especially in France, Spain, Brazil and the USA.

FIMI ANTECIPADED TO FEBRUARY

Evergreen Utopia Innovation, sustainability and social responsibility are the words written with a permanent marker in Scoop’s resume. A strategy that brought the company, which now works with internationally renowned brands, to the forefront of technical clothing. “We realized that we had to differentiate ourselves by betting determinedly on innovation” explains Daniel Pinto (in the photo), Scoop’s Strategy and Development Director. As a matter of fact, the concern with sustainability is present in all the company’s production stages: 70% of the raw materials are purchased in Portugal; the priority is to reduce energy, water and plastic consumption; and the research projects are always trying to find new ways to reuse the accumulated stock from previous collections. The making more with less motto has already lured new clients and the public institutions acknowledgement. The most notable came from the U.N., which in October admitted Scoop in the “United Nations Global Compact”, a committee of over nine thousand companies that excel at an international level for their actions in the field of human rights and environmental conservation. “Major international clients appreciate the fact that we have a management system fully in line with the norms of innovation, quality, health and labour safety, as well as with environmental and social standards”, states Daniel Pinto. With an unusual record, the company initially stood

out in ski clothing, a not so much popular sport in Portugal. “The opportunity came from a Swedish customer, and then we started making ski suits for schools in the Alps, which today is still one of our main markets”. Yet, the seasonality of this market led Scoop to diversify, especially since 2006, when the most acute symptoms of the economic crisis were felt. Today, besides snow clothing, the company manufactures outfits for several other sports, such as tennis and American football – having been present in Wimbledon and the Super Bowl –, and is also branching out to other collections in the “wearable tech” department. In the international market, one of its main strengths is the customized service. “Tommy, for example, sends a development team to our company and at the same time they’re making decisions about the products, we’re producing the samples according to their needs. It is possible to find cheaper elsewhere, but with us they get a premium service”, asserts Daniel Pinto. In the sustainability field, Scoop’s intents know no boundaries. Last year, the company started a biological vegetable garden from which it provides soup, juice, fruits and tea to all its employees. In the plot beside it, a small forest grows as a symbol of respect and gratitude for the firemen who fight Portugal’s forest fires. Featuring indigenous species only, each tree is named after an employee. A perfect cycle – both inside and outside the company walls – with which Scoop is creating an evergreen utopia. t

The next edition of FIMI (International Children's Fashion Fair), which is already in its 88th edition, is full of new features: new strategy, new dates and new location, with the clear goal of becoming Spain’s most important event in children's fashion. The change of dates for February 1st, 2nd and 3rd will make it easier for international visitors to attend the fair, which is now 100% oriented to capture the attention of buyers who seek the made in Spain stamp.

3,5 million

pairs of socks are manufactured annually by A.Fiúza & Irmão

SPRINGKODE LAUNCHES PLATFORM FOR TRADITIONAL TEXTILES Thanks to Springkode, a platform launched by the Portuguese entrepreneurs Reinaldo Moreira, Francisco Pimentel and Miguel Pinto, it’s now possible to make electronic purchases in the 'traditional' textile companies. With plans to reach 10 partners this year, the entrepreneurs expect to reach a turnover of 350 thousand euros by the end of 2019. The premise is simple: to take advantage of the online shopping trend to take the made in Portugal quality to the consumers at affordable prices, eliminating the costs of a physical store.


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OPINION SUSTAINABILITY IS THE FUTURE Paulo Melo ATP's President

HAPPY NEW YEAR! Paulo Vaz Director of ATP ant T's Editor

The advancement strategy of the Portuguese Textile and Clothing Industry (TCI) until 2030 lies on four fundamental pillars: innovation (technological and non-technological, i.e., creativity and design), internationalization, digitalization and sustainability. These will be the catalyst shaping the fashion rank in Portugal for the following decade, so it remains simultaneously modern and competitive, which is to say unrivalled on a global scale. They are all intertwined, more or less explicitly, yet complex and intentional. Designing, conceiving and manufacturing new products means projecting differentiated proposals in fashion and design, within an ever-present framework of holistic sustainability and privileging the new channels of business, amongst companies or with the final consumer, who is choosing digital as the main consumption platform, leading to the reinvention of brick-and-mortar business. However, if we had to pick one catalyst for the sector’s future growth, we would undoubtedly choose sustainability. As a matter of fact, these principles

As I have said it in previous editorials, the cycle is changing, and quicker than we predicted. Throughout this 10 year expansion period, the longest of its kind on record, many have erroneously believed that this growth would be exponential and eternal. Anybody like myself, that has been in the sector for over 30 years, knows that is a dangerous illusion, one that paves the way to complacency and, consequently, to mistakes and disasters. If there is one thing you cannot have in this industry is overconfidence, thinking you have reached tranquillity with an ephemeral prosperity. Nevertheless, it has always been the permanent startle, the constant state of vigilance and the predisposition to change, whenever necessary, that created the survival instinct that is in the Portuguese textile and clothing industry’s (TCI) DNA. An unprecedented mix of degrading political, social and economic

permeate the TCI’s value chain and fashion in general, on a global scale, from raw material production to manufacturing and consumption. New generations have assimilated those values, in which environmental, social and economic sustainability is key, dragging it from the sphere of alternative and activism into a true all-influencing “mainstream”. Starting with the consumers’ demand for products with zero impact on the environment, whose process respected the most basic social and human rights, and ending with the raw material and the transformation, manufacturing and transporting processes. A new paradigm is rising, one in which circular economy will play a crucial role, forcing the industry to fully understand and embrace it as its own. It is a path in its earlier stages, fraught with difficulties, challenges, and opportunities alike, in which new technologies will be applied, including those that confirm the traceability and veracity of product certifications. For that is the consumers’ core demand, which the Portuguese TCI strongly supports and is ready to thoroughly fulfil.

conjunctures, in the country and abroad; changes in some clients’ sourcing policies, who in the past were crucial for the TCI and that now search for geographies where the production costs are lower, in order to make larger margins; without forgetting the structural changes in the consumers’ behaviour, who in the West, our main market, tends to buy less clothing items. All this will be at the very base of the next adjustment the sector will have to face in the following years. In this demanding context, it’s expected that the business community redefines itself. The dependency on some markets and clients might be fatal, if the organizations are too weak to react. It’s essential to branch out to other markets, offer differentiated products and services or to develop new business models more in tune with the consumption profile that is growing today and that tomor-

row will be dominant. I have no doubts that the Portuguese TCI will, once again, come out on top, cleansed and reinforced with new capabilities and competences, as it did so often in a recent past. However, I cannot refrain from exhorting that there can be no hesitations in the companies’ restructures and reforms, which will have to be done swiftly if the sector wants to resist and prevail. More productivity, more commercial aggressiveness, more international presence, more diversity of markets and clients, more added value and less available productive capacity, more focus and more judicious management are essential if we want to be ahead. The challenge of offering more services will have to be overcome, because it’s on the increase of the business margins that lies the key to success. To make the year of 2019 a good year, and the following ones as well.


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Paulo Nunes de Almeida AEP’s (Portuguese Entrepreneurial Association) President

THE HIGH COST OF ENERGY In a globalized world, the companies’ competitiveness is a decisive factor. I underline this aspect regarding the high cost of the electricity paid by Portugal’s companies, above the European average. This situation, in itself worrying, is now aggravating. When the time to renegotiate the contracts comes, the companies are confronted with very significant increases, in double-digits, compared to their previous contracts. This aggravation has an enormous negative impact on the companies’ internal and external competitiveness, especially in an internationalization context. I have made known that our corporate sector cannot withstand such increases, therefore, should they be confirmed at a general level, it would result in serious setbacks to the country’s economic growth. A substantial portion of the companies’ energy bill has little or nothing to do with their real use. As efficient as enterprises might be from the standpoint of energy consumption, it proves very difficult to “combat” the portion that is exogenous to their activity, which includes access rates, general economic interest charges, fees, taxes and contributions. The Textile and Clothing Industry, a sector I know well, is one of the main energy consumers. In 2016, it stood at 11th place in the consumption ranking (championed by “Domestic Use”, followed by the “Pulp and Paper Industry”) and at 7th in the high-voltage ranking. In the manufacturing segment, it takes the 6th place in consumption and the 2nd in the low-voltage ranking. The fact of the matter is this! When we are dealing with sectors that are heavy consumers of electricity, the loss of competitiveness is overwhelming. In the specific case of Textile and Clothing, we are facing a sector that plays a considerable role in the Portuguese economy: 20% of employment and 11% of GVA of the manufacturing industry. Additionally, the sector is vital in maintaining the Portuguese trade balance given its commercial surplus, which in 2017 was over one billion euros and in the first eight months of 2018 reached 826 million euros. 2017 was the best year on record in terms of the sector’s exported value, above 5,2 billion euros, or in other words, approximately 10% of the global goods exporting, demonstrating a strong competitive ability. By August 2018 that value surpassed 3,6 billion euros. I reaffirm that Portugal must continue betting on tradable goods production and services in order to promote economic growth. There are reasons, more than enough, to realize that we cannot risk losing competitiveness, jeopardizing the goal of reaching the 50% export intensity that we aspire for Portugal. t

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February 2019

João Gomes CeNTI’s Chief Operations Officer

INDUSTRIAL REVOLUTIONS AND CRITICAL FACTORS I have always been passionate about History, specifically about the classical period. What always lured me about historical analysis were the critical factors of a given moment in time, which determined the causes and consequences of several changes, whether human or physical. The biggest appeal of it is to understand that these factors and pivotal causes are cyclical. This perspective allows us to understand our role in the current 4.0 industrial revolution and where to position ourselves in this industrial revolution. Naturally, understanding our economy’s nature and our industrial infrastructure, we can hardly foresee our industries leading revolutionary moments in technology. However, they are certainly in the position to become its early adopters and to be pioneers in the introduction and leverage of new technologies. Here, once again, it’s vital to understand what the critical factors for our evolution are. When we look at the technological balance brought by each technological evolution / revolution, we discover that the Textile and Clothing Industry (TCI) was always at the front line or even played the main part. Let’s take a look at the factors that triggered the first industrial revolution, whose causes and factors are common to its cradle economy (Britain) and to the early adopters (New England, Ruhr, Hauts-de-France, Lombardy and others). In the late 18th century, we connect Eli Whitney’s cotton gin, James Watt’s steam engine and Edmund Cartwright’s power loom in the same commercial area of the British Empire, in the heart of the very first truly capitalist society by the canons of Adam Smith (1775); accessibility to investment thanks to the first central investment bank (The Bank of England); and an enormous mercantile fleet stretched around the globe. In addition, we could also mention the abundant manpower. Critical factors: technological innovation, accessibility to investment and to human resources, new market concepts. To carry these factors to the current days, we will have to update them accordingly. Even considering that the access to international markets is much simpler today, we can agree that the qualified human resources, the infrastructure and industrial conjuncture, the access to investment and the disruptive innovation are still critical factors to leverage a new industrial revolution in the TCI sector. When we look at Portugal’s Northern and Central regions, we ascertain that they combine many of these critical factors: synergies between different industrial sectors (metalworking, information technology and the TCI); industrial conjuncture, like the proximity between the companies and the five biggest Universities in the country (Minho, Porto, Aveiro, Beira Interior and Coimbra); highly qualified human resources available; and the innovation potential represented by the Technological Interface Centres and its relationship with the Academy and the Industry. We also possess an enviable capacity of generating new businesses and new methods to approach the market. TCI’s ability within these new critical factors has enabled it to overcome crises and to compete in a global market. Our only frailty is a chronic inability to invest, especially in innovation. Portugal 2030s negotiations in Brussels, and the ability to learn from the mistakes of the previous European frameworks, are imperative to leverage the industrial innovations that will drive us to the 4.0, or maybe 5.0, Industry! As we discussed before, to predict the future we need to learn from the past. t


February 2019

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MY RESTAURANTS

LOVE ME, LOVE ME NOT

by: Manuel Serrão

A Cozinha do Martinho Rua de Costa Cabral 2598 4200-219 Porto

WE’LL ALWAYS HAVE TRIPE

In my childhood, I remember seeing in many restaurants a sign, very visible from the street, that said “Today we have Tripe”. Well, in “Martinho’s” kitchen there is tripe every single day! And how tasty they are! A dish like this, made by those who know how to make it finger-licking good, can’t have just a day, nor days. In fact, at the beginning, the Tripas à moda do Porto (Tripe à la Porto)’s day was on Wednesday. Then a few started to implement it on Thursday and Saturday, breaking the “law” of Tripe’s day. Especially if they were ‘à la Porto’ and the restaurant was located in the suburbs. I can’t swear on it, but I believe that the liberalization of Tripe day was the only good thing that came out of the infamous mad cow disease episode. The fear of the reigning disinformation, fuelled by the campaigns promoting said calamity, abolished Tripe day and almost finished with Tripe altogether. However, every cloud has a silver lining and after almost having been effaced from our tables, the ‘Tripas à Moda do Porto’ – undefeated like the city that names them – came back in full force and with no specific day. In “Martinho’s” kitchen, all we’re missing is Martinho himself, whom God already called unto Him (indeed, because people like him can only go to Heaven), but his daughter is always present and the tripe dish is present every single day of the week. However, today we have much more than the tripe. I’ve left there very content and happy having eaten a first class Codfish in Cornbread and, with the same vigour, I would recommend the Roasted Veal. There are even famous customers

Tânia Mutert de Barros, 49, is the official representative of Messe München in Portugal. Born in Northern Germany, she graduated in Management (with a specialization in Tourism) in Munich and met her Portuguese husband while working in Germany. In 1993 they moved to Porto. They have two children, an 18-year-old boy and a 14-year-old girl.

Likes

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such as Manuel Pizarro (Porto ex-city councillor, who even brought our current Prime Minister here), who has discovered this restaurant in Costa Cabral Street for almost as long as the other Cabral discovered Brasil. However, for those who came across it after chef Bourdain revealed it for American TV, there is no time to waste. We must go there every opportunity we get, to make up for all the times we couldn’t. Ignorance is the mother of all grievances!

The Colour blue Ribeira Big families Showing Porto to foreigners Pretradeshow adrenaline German bread Family celebrations Optimism Saint John Her 12 nephews Hosting Gentlemen Sweet noodles Travelling with her husband Tuscany Good conversations Cinema Red wine Motorcycle rides Ice skating Snow and blue sky in Munich Mid-afternoon snack Meryl Streep Portuguese soups Being her own boss Arts and crafts with kids Aromatherapy Countryside flowers Giving gifts Christmas lights Reading the same book five times Challenges Serralves’s gardens Being practical Persistence Walking Scandinavia Having breakfast

Helicopter jumping Stubbornness Tripe Stuck-up people Ostentation popcorn Cold feet Colour black Bureaucracy Medium-rare meat Bigmouth people Horror movies Intolerance People with no goals Destructive criticism Very hot Summer days Having dinner with the TV on Sad faces Crime books Vladimir Putin Arrogant people Noisy restaurants Donald Trump Traffic Hot beaches Rude People Pessimism Passiveness Deserts Heights Lack of generosity Ghosts Crowds Pretentious people Nutella Pompous people Bungee jumping Whiny people Ovos Moles


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February 2019

INBICTUM: CROWDFUNDING TO PRODUCE INPOCKET PRO A Inbictum, a fashion-tech brand, has its first commercial product on the Indiegogo crowdfunding platform - the inPocket Pro football socks – which promise to revolutionize the football equipment market. These seamless socks are composed of an inner layer, which functions as a pocket for the shin guard, which is secured to the leg by the compression exerted by the outer layer.

"Tintex was born to do differentiated products" Mário Jorge Silva Tintex's CEO

CERTIFICATION STRENGTHENS FILASA'S SUSTAINABILITY

Filasa, administrated by Fátima Antunes (in the photo) and the European Union's second largest spinning mill, has just obtained a new certificate for its cotton yarns, thus reinforcing the commitment to sustainability that has become the company’s trademark. Called Fairtrade, this certification highlights alternative approaches to conventional trade, based on a balanced partnership between producers and consumers.t

FITECOM INVESTS 2.5 MILLION IN FINISHINGS Fitecom has already defined their investment program for 2019, budgeted at 2.5 million euros, which will be essentially applied in the company’s finishing department. "The secret of our success has been the constant technological updates, vital if we want to maintain our competitiveness and surprise the customer with different and innovative products", explains João Carvalho, 61, Fitecom’s CEO and textile engineer, which is simultaneously the largest producer of Beira Interior’s wines - its Quinta dos Termos produces 800 thousand bottles. Specialized in woollen products and with 185 employees, Fitecom is expected to close the year with 15 million euros in sales and is well-known for its commitment to R&D and innovation, supported by partnerships with University of Beira Interior and other Portuguese scientific and technological entities. At the last Munich Fabric Start, João Carvalho presented an innovative reversible fabric with

two different patterns glued together, which allows the same product – like a coat or overcoat – to have two different looks to choose from. The women's fabrics are another vector on Fitecom's strategy - at the moment, only 30% of the company’s collection is dedicated to the female audience. "The fabrics for women need to be more fashionable, more colourful because women are more interested in the look. The man likes classic fabrics with new functionalities, which normally is linked with technology, so we have to pay attention to that aspect" says João Carvalho. The company - which became noticeable when it won the Portuguese Innovation Award with a fabric that in the summer is 30% cooler and in the winter 30% warmer – has among its products a machine-washable wool fabrics with anti-odour and antimicrobial proprieties, as well as a fabric that is 100% waterproof and stain resistant because it’s covered with a membrane and has received hydrophobic and oleophobic coatings. t

TMG IN MANUFACTURING WITH MG LAB TMG Textiles acquired the human resources and know-how of the Delcon outwear company, which belonged to the Ricon group and is now bankrupt. "MG Lab employs 60 people and produces about 200 parts per day. We sell added value to the customers that seek qua-

lity and capability", explains Rita Ribeiro, TMG Textiles’ business manager, who also hired the Ricon’s group sourcing manager to gain access to "a spectacular network of suppliers.” Not to compete with its textile customers is the concern of TMG Textiles’ extension strategy. The company

closed 2017 with a turnover of 30 million euros. This past year, sales reached 33 million, and in 2019 sales are expected to reach 35 million, already benefiting from the full impact of the Delcon acquisition. "Since 2016 we have been growing in double digits," says Rita Ribeiro. t

BERNARDO SILVA, THE FASHION FAIL Even with the Portuguese stylists in the spotlight, not everyone seems to follow the trends. This is the case of footballer Bernardo Silva, named by the colleagues of Manchester City as the team‘s most poorly dressed. "The fashion fail? It's easy, it's Bernardo", teammate Kevin de Bruyne said in an interview with Sky Sports. "It's just awful. Bernardo always uses the same outfits. We’re always telling him to buy new things. And he has the money to do it", the Belgian international player joked, revealing that Bernardo is mocked in the locker rooms thanks to his out-of-date fashion.

25tons

tonnes is the amount of knitwear that Familitex sells on a daily basis

JF ALMEIDA PREPARES ENTRY IN THE NIGERIAN MARKET The JF Almeida group is getting along well with Africa: after consolidating its position in the Algerian market, the company is preparing another channel for its exports, this time in Nigeria. "We will be one of the first to come to this restricted market, with which we never worked and that we will address in 2019," says CEO Joaquim Almeida.

YAK’S FIBRE IS INOVAFIL’S TRUMP CARD A thread made from the Himalayan yak hair and from PLA (polyacid lactic) fibre is Inovafil’s new asset. The yarn is already a finalist at the iTechStyle Awards, after being shown in Première Vision Paris and Modtissimo fairs. Yak fibre, whose softness compares to that of cashmere, has antibacterial and breathability properties, and PLA fibre is biodegradable and sustainable, made from maize, as explained Rui Martins, Inovafil’s administrator.


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