Contents Fall 2013
A storied Philadelphia mansion enchants a mother and daughter.
MADE IN MILAN
IN EVERY ISSUE
In the design-centric Italian city, the centuries-old tradition of craftsmanship endures.
A laid-back and worldly vibe make for a cool oasis in urban Los Angeles.
WELL WORN AND WELL LOVED In a San Francisco apartment, the imperfect is heralded.
An artist and a milliner put their personal stamp on an Ohio farmhouse.
A FASHIONABLE FETE 118 Couture and cooking come together when a designer throws a celebratory dinner party.
FORM + FIGURE 24 Meet the New York illustrator and blogger behind the cover of our fall issue.
FRENCH QUARTERS 36 A Paris relocation proves fruitful to the careers of a fashion-minded duo.
ACRES OF INSPIRATION
SHOPKEEPERS’ PICKS MARKET REPORT
LESS IS SO MUCH MORE
A San Francisco-based clothing company advocates a new shopping mentality.
GIRL ABOUT TOWN
CONVERSATION Shirley Kurata 15
MAKING THE MAGAZINE
Sartorial and interior style go hand in hand for these creative types.
BY THE BOOK
PRIZED POSSESSION Christian Siriano 132
The interior of a London home successfully marries Victorian and modern elements.
THE ART OF THE TART
In Brooklyn, a designer—and baking enthusiast—shares a trio of her favorite recipes.
Cover Illustration by SAMANTHA HAHN
A TV and film costume designer shows us around her Brooklyn neighborhood.
History, literature, and childhood memories add up to a distinctive jewelry line.
Conversation In her work and at home, Shirley Kurata (shirleykurata.com) is all about bright colors, graphic patterns, and mixing vintage and contemporary pieces. Take one look at the wardrobe stylist’s Los Angeles abode—any room, not just her closet—and this becomes apparent. “I’m drawn to warm pops of color like yellow and orange, so you see those color accents throughout the house,” she says. “Also you can see my predilection for graphic prints in my curtains and artwork.” The L.A. native shares the Stephen Alan Siskind-designed residence—which she describes as having a “very ’60s ski cabin feel”— with her boyfriend and two cats.
Photographs by JUCO
These days, Shirley’s client roster includes the fashion lines Rodarte and Peter Jensen; boldface names such as Elijah Wood and Judd Apatow; and Target. Her editorial styling efforts have appeared in Paper, Blackbook, Time, and New York magazines. In 2012, her photographer friend Autumn de Wilde launched Daily Shirley (dailyshirley.com), which started with Autumn snapping pictures of Shirley’s outfits during New York Fashion Week. The site offers a glimpse into a retro and whimsical world filled with tasseled shoes, geometric skirts, colorful headpieces, plaid sweaters, and vibrant tops—sometimes all in one ensemble.
In Shirley Kurata’s living room, her fondness for mid-century design is evident. Left: A fan of The
Smiths, Shirley bought the lyrical needlepoint by Kimberly Scola at an art show.
EARLY DAYS: I’ve been interested in fashion
since I was about 10, which is when I started to learn how to sew from my mother. I wanted to be a fashion designer and I eventually went to Paris to study fashion design at Studio Berçot for several years. CAREER PATH: I started by interning, tak-
ing whatever job I could get so I could learn the trade—first interning in fashion in Paris, and then in film in Los Angeles. After that, I started assisting, and it eventually led to other jobs where I was key stylist. JOB DESCRIPTION: It’s a long list. My job in-
volves shopping, designing, creating characters, creating an image or look or concept, organizing, running a team, creating mood boards, researching, dealing with a lot of paperwork, pulling from costume houses, reading fashion magazines, understanding the needs of your client—just to name a few things!
STYLE ICONS: Diana Vreeland, Peggy Mof-
fitt, Anna Karina. Diana Vreeland always exuded chic; she wasn’t an iconic beauty, but was able to create an air of beauty from her poise and style. With Peggy, I love the fact that she still has kept her style after all these years, and it’s a style that is distinctively Peggy. With Anna Karina, she represents French New Wave style for me— something that I am a big fan of.
“Throughout the years, my desire to mix it up has remained constant.”
STYLE EVOLUTION: While the things that I’m
Balenciaga, Courrèges, Sybilla, Comme des Garçons, Christian Dior, Yves Saint Laurent.
drawn to may change throughout the years, I find that my desire to mix it up—vintage and modern, prints and patterns, minimal and ornate—has remained constant.
CURRENT FASHION INFLUENCES: Rodarte,
CURRENT OBSESSION: The clothing line
Peter Jensen, Prada, Marni, Céline, Marc Jacobs.
EARLY FASHION INFLUENCES: Cristóbal
“I painted the staircase yellow after moving in,” says Shirley, in a Marc Jacobs cardigan and skirt, paired with Carven shoes. “It is one of my favorite features along with the big windows and the fireplace.”
This page and opposite:
Thrifted and vintage pieces abound in Shirley’s home—all of which play a role in a colorful interior she bills as “folksy mid-century.”
ALWAYS ON YOU: My glasses.
NEXT ON YOUR TO-DO LIST: The to-do list is
long and the problem is I can’t decide what to do next! Update the flooring of the house, repaint the exterior of the house, get more artwork. When you buy a house, there’s always work that needs to be done on it.
FAVORITE FASHION PIECE: The Mount Fuji
CHILDHOOD MEMENTO: Honey, my teddy bear,
dress is one of my favorite dresses that Rodarte has designed. It’s a simple white dress with beautiful embroidery of Mount Fuji made out of Swarovski crystals and feather flowers.
came from Japan. My brother had just been there and brought Honey back to me as a gift.
BEST RECENT ACQUISITION FOR YOUR
FAVORITE ART MUSEUM: Louisiana Museum
HOME: A ’70s print artwork of a Palisades sunset
of Modern Art in Denmark.
that I got at the Pasadena City College flea market.
FAVORITE NEIGHBORHOOD RESTAURANT:
ALWAYS IN THE FRIDGE: Umeboshi (small pickled
Japanese plums). ALWAYS
PANTRY: Heller plastic
CLIENT / COLLABORATORS: David
Lynch, Wim Wenders, Alejandro Jodorowsky, William Klein, Prada, Jarvis Cocker. NEXT ACQUISITION: A remodeled workroom. I
work at home when I’m not out on a shoot. Sometimes I’m so busy I just throw things from jobs in a room and it gets out of control. I have some vintage home decor books and they include workrooms that are organized so nicely and neatly, and it’s something I really need to have!
FAVORITE FASHION RESOURCE: Pinterest.
Casita del Campo in Silver Lake. It’s not so much about the food; it’s because I love the decor and ambiance. It has a real tree in the dining room and the decor has a great ’60s, cozy vibe to it. Apparently the owner was one of the dancers in West Side Story and opened up the restaurant after the movie was done. MOTTO: “Try something new each day. After all,
we’re given life to find it out. It doesn’t last forever.” It’s a quote by Maude from the film Harold and Maude. 19
H ISTORI C CHAR M An 1880s Philadelphia estate provides a distinctive home for a fashion industry veteran and her daughter
Opposite: The author, Gayle
Smith, moved into the storied Bergdoll Mansion three years ago. Right: In the entry is a bird
painting purchased from a street vendor in Brooklyn and a coat rack from a Philadelphia antiques store.
OVER THE PAST TWO DECADES, I’ve been lucky enough to work in the fashion industry in roles that have allowed me to create as well as to travel—two of my passions in life. In the early 1990s, I decamped from my London base to New York City, where I worked my way up from a design assistant at Banana Republic to a vice president at Victoria’s Secret. While I have been around the world a few times under my corporate guise, I have also managed to follow my own path: during sabbaticals, I sought out fabrics and tailors in overseas towns and villages and designed my own clothes; it was a way to experience a locale as more than just a tourist, while also executing my sartorial vision. With every new city and country I visited, I wondered if I would find a spot that might become my new home. In 2010, I was living in Brooklyn and working as a fashion consultant for companies such as Edun and American Eagle. I loved the neighborhoods between Red Hook and Green Point, but a job opportunity arose that I couldn’t pass up: executive
Text by GAYLE SMITH Photographs by NGOC MINH NGO Styling by NATASHA LOUISE KING
director of women’s design for Urban Outfitters. My next home, it turned out, would be Philadelphia. Although it’s less than two hours from New York City by train, it was a new adventure for me and my 10-year-old daughter, Ona—one that we fully embraced. While a New York City resident, I had only moved a few times. And each time, I looked at about 70 apartments! I was intrigued about what the house hunt in Philadelphia would yield, and figured that we would at least get more space for our money there. My new employer wisely set me up with a guide and realtor, Francesca. We drove through the leafy suburbs with great schools. Francesca ran me around the cobbled West Village-like city streets and showed me rows of mews and cul-de-sacs that were just beautiful in the warm spring sun. She introduced me to the up-and-coming Northern Liberties neighborhood, and Fishtown with its warehouses waiting to be transformed.
Right: A balcony over-
looks a flagged garden. “I eat and work out there as often as possible,” says Gayle (in a Reformation dress and M.Patmos fur jacket). Below: The ceilings fea-
ture the work of George Herzog, a renowned decorator and painter.
Much to my amazement, the second property we toured proved to be the one. (It was never that easy in New York City!) Bergdoll Mansion—which totals 14,000 square feet and has been segmented into six apartments on the second and third floors, as well as a first-floor abode—immediately felt like a place that Ona and I could call home. And an astounding home at that. Situated in Philadelphia’s Spring Garden section—with the Philadelphia Museum of Art, Barnes Collection, and Rodin Museum nearby—the residence is an Italianateinspired brownstone. Set slightly on a grassy hill, weatherworn iron railings surround the grounds. Built in 1882, it was once the home of the Bergdolls, who made their fortune by brewing beer. The architect, James H. Windrim, was also responsible for the Philadelphia Masonic Temple. The current owner, a scientist, purchased the stately manor in 1989. She had visited Bergdoll Mansion as a child, when her great-uncle owned 30
it for a period. After living abroad for years, in the mid-1980s she returned to Philadelphia and bought the mansion. Within just a few weeks, she recounts, a fire broke out and the building suffered heavy damage. It was subsequently vacated and further ravaged by thieves, who took advantage of the empty dwelling; not surprisingly, it became an eyesore. Undeterred, my landlord dedicated herself to its restoration, investing in craftsmen and specialists to repair the damage and heal the wounds of this special place. The apartment that Ona and I live in was the last to be renovated after the fire, so no one had occupied it before us. It is essentially one large space that we visually divided into four living and sleeping areas along with a side wing that includes a kitchen, bathroom, and two large balconies that overlook a garden with fig trees and magnolias. Although an addition, the wing was done in a way that matches the original period details so it seamlessly blends in.
A sisal rug marks off the living room, which is outfitted with a pair of sofasâ€”one for Gayle, and one for her daughter Ona to relax (and watch TV) on. Low stainless steel shelving on castors house Gayleâ€™s books.
A MOVE TO PARIS FURTHER INSPIRES A PAIR OF EXPATS INVOLVED IN THE FASHION INDUSTRY Text by LINDSEY TRAMUTA Photographs by ALPHA SMOOT
THE DIN OF STREET TRAFFIC BELOW THEIR sixth-floor Paris apartment overlooking the bustling Boulevard Haussmann doesn’t bother Rubi and Stanton Jones. That’s because the young couple considers it an easy trade-off for the sweeping views of the French capital’s iconic rooftops; it was one of several non-negotiable features when they were searching last spring for their second Parisian rental. Located in the 9th arrondissement, they are a short walk from the city’s illustrious department stores and neo-Baroque opera house. A spacious living room was another important factor in their selection. “When we first got married, we lived in a two-bedroom in Utah with a cramped living room,” recalls Rubi. “We spent most of our time at home in separate rooms to work on our own projects. So since then, we de-
LIGHT & AIRY Living In their Paris apartment, Rubi and Stanton Jones spend most of their time in the living room, which she describes as “grand with amazing light.” The home’s three balconies— and the vistas they afford—instantly sold the couple on the place. The interior is enlivened with throw pillows from Turkey and a Curtis Kulig photograph with the artist’s signature “Love Me” tag.
YOU MIGHT EXPECT that the costume
GIRL ABOUT TOWN A Brooklyn film and TV costume designer invites us to tag along as she visits some of her favorite neighborhood spots—and talks about her dream career Text by ANH-MINH LE Photographs by AMY DICKERSON
designer for two of today’s most talked about television series—HBO’s Girls and Netflix’s Orange Is the New Black—would have a supersized closet. You know, the kind that was probably once a spare bedroom but has since been customized with a plenitude of drawers, shelves, and racks. But the surprising reality is this: Jenn Rogien has no closet to speak of. “I just have a few armoires,” she laughs. Three to be exact—a primary one filled with regulars, another earmarked for mostly vintage garb, and a third that stores items that aren’t worn much (such as gowns and suits). “I tried a clothing rack, but it didn’t work for me,” she says. “It was visually too cluttered.” The solo closet in the bedroom of her Brooklyn apartment is set aside for her husband, Steve Faletti, who is an interaction designer. Jenn is currently working on the second season of OITNB and finished the third season of Girls in late summer. Pulling shoes, accessories, and handbags (“Pieces that add up to a complete costume”); visiting the actors in the dressing rooms to check on the fit of an outfit; accompanying the actors
After shooting Jenn Rogien, photographer Amy Dickerson offers her appreciation for the costume designer’s style: “I really liked the juxtaposition of the lace and camo,” she says of Jenn’s raincoat and jeans.
Hers is the kind of job that doesn’t really have a hard stop. 62
to the set to make sure the ensembles look good on camera; researching costumes; and shopping are all in a day’s work for Jenn. She also watches episodes of both shows—sometimes dailies (raw footage from that day’s filming) or rough cuts, other times when they air or are available to the public—to see where she can make improvements and to check for continuity (i.e., that the outfits are matching from scene to scene). While Jenn goes to work Monday through Friday, hers is the kind of job that doesn’t really have a hard stop. For example, even on a Saturday, she has her costume designer’s hat on as she canvases some of her Clinton Hill neighborhood haunts. “You never know when you’re going to find something perfect,” she says. Jenn typically reads a script a couple of times to figure out how many outfit changes are required and what those outfits should be, so she has ideas in mind when she shops. As the focus turns to her current ensemble, she mentions the “power clashing” storyline from the second season of Girls—which called for Lena Dunham’s character, Hannah, dressing in intentionally clashing fruit-print pieces. “I sometimes do it in real life,” Jenn jokes. Today, her outfit consists of skinny camo cargo jeans; a black-and-white striped button-down (“The fabric just sort of floats—it skims but doesn’t cling—so it’s easy to run around
in”); and a white lace raincoat (an Elie Tahari design that she picked up while shopping for one of the shows—an “occupational hazard” she says). Her accessories include an emerald green, reptile-embossed leather and suede satchel and a pair of black woven Bottega Veneta sandals with a three-anda-half-inch heel. “I’m in heels more often than not,” she says. One of her recent acquisitions is a pair of gold crisscross Miu Miu sandals with a raffia wedge heel that she previously purchased for Jessa, actress Jemima Kirke’s character on Girls. For her personal buy, Jenn stalked the shoes at DSW until the price was right. “I’m a huge sucker for designer shoes,” she says. “Many of mine come from DSW so that I can afford those fabulous designer shoes and still pay my rent.” Her first stop in today’s excursion is the Brooklyn Flea in Fort Greene. “I usually end up here for food more than anything,” says the lifelong vegetarian. Among her favorites are the pupusa, taco, pizza, dosa, and doughnut purveyors. But this morning, shopping is on the agenda. In particular, she’s on the lookout for jewelry from the late 1980s and early ’90s for OITNB, which she does indeed successfully score. (Two days later, the pearls and period jewelry make it on camera.) “I tend to have better luck with accessories than clothes here,” she says of the flea market, as a vintage “beautiful,
In January, Jenn came across a pair of vintage eyeglass frames at London’s Spitalfields Market that she regrets not buying. “I’ve been keeping my eyes open for a similar pair ever since,” she says.
Saturday morning visits to the Brooklyn Flea often yield good food, design inspiration, and accessories finds. (brooklynflea.com; 176 Lafayette Avenue, between Clermont and Vanderbilt)
fawny-taupe” suede Gucci purse catches her eye. Although she doesn’t need something like this for any upcoming episodes, she mentally catalogs the find. In addition to her jewelry purchases, a visit with a vendor selling an array of metal letters results in an “R” (for Rogien), “F” (for Faletti), and a star— each measuring more than a foot tall—going home with her. “I have no clue where I’m going to put these in the apartment,” she says. She follows up the flea market with the Fort Greene Park farmers’ market. Since she has her own rooftop garden bounty right now, she admires but doesn’t buy any produce. When she and Steve moved into their place four years ago, they knew the garden was a luxury and were determined to do something with it. “There’s something really magical about filling a big pot with dirt, putting in a few seeds, and then having tomatoes on a vine a few months later,” says Jenn. Their garden currently includes green peppers, chili peppers, tomatoes, eggplants, basil, and mint. At the farmers’ market, Jenn can’t resist the fresh blooms, however. And just around the corner is Gnarly Vines, her favorite neighborhood wine shop, where she picks up a couple bottles of rosé.
Jenn likes to buy plants for her patio from the Fort Greene Park farmers’ market. (grownyc.org; Washington Park, between DeKalb and Willoughby)
Wine purveyor Gnarly Vines is conveniently located just around the corner from the farmers’ market. (gnarlyvines.com; 350 Myrtle Avenue)
Text by ALEXIS BIRKMEYER Photographs by TARA DONNE Styling by BETH FLATLEY Recipes by CAITLIN MOCIUN
A jewelry designer whose approach in the studio spills over into the kitchen shares three recipes for fall-inspired tarts
No matter what type of project she works on, Brooklyn-based designer Caitlin Mociun treasures the act of creating something from scratch. This holds true in her career—as well as in her home life, including her passion for cooking. In 2006, after graduating from the Rhode Island School of Design with a degree in textile design, Caitlin launched a clothing label. She later added jewelry to her repertoire; the line did so well, she decided to make it her sole focus. In March 2012, she made another big decision—opening her eponymous shop in Brooklyn (mociun.com). Caitlin couldn’t resist getting involved in the plans for the space and helped design the store’s furniture. While she has no intention of walking away from jewelry, she acknowledges that she is likely to continue experimenting in other areas. Her recent collaboration with furniture designer Genesis Belanger—updating the fixtures at Mociun—led to a small range of stools and benches, and they’re developing a lighting line together.
APPLE TART Serves 10 CRUST 1 ¹⁄3 cups all-purpose flour pinch of salt 1 stick (4 oz) cold unsalted butter, cubed ¼ cup sugar 1 egg yolk 2 tbsp heavy cream (possibly a little more) FILLING 8 to 10 apples, any variety juice from 1 lemon ¾ cup granulated sugar 1 tbsp cinnamon 1 tsp salt cream or ice cream for serving
1. For the crust: In a medium mixing bowl, combine flour and salt. Using a pastry cutter, incorporate the butter into the flour until it resembles a coarse meal. Add the sugar and stir to combine.
Fashionable Fete couture becomes casual when a designer hosts friends for sunday supper in her new york city apartment
Text by ANNA WATSON CARL Photographs by AMY DICKERSON Recipes by ERIN FETHERSTON
ion designer Erin Fetherston, in her Manhattan living room, wears a sheer gown from her fall collection. This page: For a din-
ner party Erin hosted, each setting was marked by a pear set on top of a grape leaf.
Clockwise from far left:
Newlyweds Erin and Gabe Saporta. The congratulatory flags were part of their wedding decor. The sofas are from nearby ABC Carpet & Home, and the Bergère-style chairs from a Paris auction.
hen she isn’t hard at work creating her signature ethereal frocks, women’s wear designer Erin Fetherston (erinfetherston.com) loves spending time in her New York City kitchen. “Cooking and fashion design are very similar,” says Erin, who has been known to bake oatmeal chocolate-chip cookies for her team during Fashion Week. “First you come up with a concept. Then you determine the steps to execute and source your materials or ingredients. It’s very similar to making a collection.” Growing up in the San Francisco Bay Area, food was a big part of her childhood. “Both of my parents are great cooks,” she explains. “I learned to cook by watching them.” (The aforementioned cookies were a regular treat in the Fetherston household.)
These days, Erin enjoys cooking and entertaining in the airy loft that she shares with her husband, Cobra Starship lead singer Gabe Saporta (cobrastarship.com). With its high ceilings, oversized windows, and working fireplace, the space reminded Erin of her former apartment in Paris—where she lived for five years before moving to New York City in 2007. The Tribeca pad is decorated in her whimsical, feminine style, with modern pieces from ABC Carpet
As the late afternoon sunlight streams through the windows, Erin prepares to light the candles on the dinner table.
PRIZED Possession Photograph by AMY DICKERSON
“This French chair—part of a pair— dates back to 1860. They were my first real antique purchase. I bought them from a dealer in San Francisco in 2008, and they were such a big expense at the time. I couldn’t buy anything else for a while after that, but I knew I had to have them. I’ve since collected more antiques—my fiancé Brad Walsh and I have gathered things from our travels around the world, and we also love antique shopping in upstate Connecticut. We have found some great things over the years, but these chairs remain a favorite.” Fashion designer CHRISTIAN SIRIANO launched his namesake label in 2008. His collection can be found at retailers around the globe and at his flagship boutique in New York’s Nolita neighborhood. This year Christian was inducted into the Council of Fashion Designers of America, and he is releasing a fragrance in early 2014. (christiansiriano.com)
Published on Oct 25, 2013
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