TM:DESIGN by A MAN.
The AUTUMN / WINTER 2010-11 Look Book
A MAN explores the collection and the inspiration that fuelled the designers work. We take you on a contorted journey through Londonâ€™s old East End, speckled with the fantasy of dreams.
A / W 10-11
Production AMAN / Angel Nicholls Abigail Frieslander Photography Victoria Lewis Layout Angel Nicholls
East London dandies...
. . . T LE IT RAIN LET
The treacherous teddy boy and the fantastically flamboyant dandy form the vibrant and attitude soaked soul that lurks within this Autumn/Winter collection. The designers had a mission to evoke the everchanging energy of TM DESIGN whilst remaining true to the essence of the brand which, has become an influential entity within British menswear. To accomplish a collection that would be equally relevant and equally enterprising would necessitate the very human trait of tapping into nostalgic memory and dreams to capture a type of nostalgia that is so rooted in rebellion, adolescence and fashion. They first study the evolution of menswear tailoring and the attitudes towards wearing a tailored garment. As we all know, the suit has been a uniform wardrobe staple to the man for centuries. However, Nancy Riegelman, author of A Guide To Drawing Fashion acknowledges a change in attitude and states that: ‘tailored garments have been adopted for less formal occasionwear, to be worn in combination with casual clothes.’ The designers felt that this was an important factor in illustrating the evolution of menswear. This led them to focusing on the infamous teddy boy of London’s East End. Although the teddy boys were more known for causing havoc in the streets of London town in the 1950s they were also true pioneers of fashion for the younger man of that era. What’s more is that with every style choice came an achingly noticeable display of attitude and playful laddish conviction.The designers display appreciation of this in the pages of the Design Sketch Book: ‘The teddy boy style: fags, booze and Elvis quiffs.’
The teddy boy and his way of dressing up for every occasion showed a subtle appreciation for the British dandy. The type of man who is all about image and communicates his tastes and personality with frivolous pieces of fashion iconography. It was all about colour and extravagance. Which, the teddy boy echoes through brightly coloured socks and luxurious materials like velvet and suede.
This metaphorical digging up of the past pathed the way to memories. Dreams that spark memories of the young East End lad growing up in London, experiencing his first exploits of any and every kind while battling with the awkward transition between childhood and manhood: adolescence. They look to those childhood memories of witnessing the moon landings that inspire the basic tee collection. They look to the remembrance of childhood heroes, back when boys wanted to grow up to be astronauts to inspire the jumpsuit. They mix it up with the attitude and style of the teddy boy that informs the straight lines of the tailored jacket and rolled up details of the collection. The influence of the dandy is subtly mixed in with feminine pinks and combined with futuristic inspired silvery greys and practical fabrics that are designed to keep the water out. The collection is: East End astronaut dreaming of dandy days, booze, cigarettes and dirty streets. Angel Nicholls.
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P R A H S
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