COVET Meet the industry’s
Bright Young Things
IDEALS AND DIVERSITY ISSUE DEC 2013
STREET STYLE EDIT
Alex Leese talks BEAUTY and its beholder
Fashion Features Production Angel Dimmick
IDEALS AND DIVERSITY ISSUE 4 A Fashionable Future Despite being deemed fast evolving and progressive, fashion still holds an unapologetic lack of ethnic diversity. It finds itself at a potential social turning point.
10 Bright Young Things Meet the bright young things, making the industry sit up, look and listen.
20 Street Style Edit Are you what you wear? With Thanks To Olivia Sullivan-Davis, Daisy Hill, Phoebe Torrance, Mahaneela Choudhury-Reid, Anouk Du Toit
COVET DECEMBER 2013
behind the scenes
A Fashionable Future Written by Angel Dimmick Despite being deemed fast evolving and progressive, fashion still holds an unapologetic lack of ethnic diversity. It finds itself at a potential social turning point. The industry of fashion finds itself in an age where the ‘future’ is no longer a simplistic predicted trend of metallics or monochrome. Imagery and advertising have formed generalised social ideals which are ultimately neither realistic nor attainable. The future of fashion has found a face. A term used freely and frequently in the business. A term that show after show, season after season holds a repetitive predictability. For an industry that views itself as fast evolving and progressive, the unapologetic lack of ethnic diversity is an issue that is more prominent than ever. The diversity of cultures and identities that we live within is not what is shown on the runway, nor what is promoted in printed publications. Fashion has always held aspirational qualities, yet those buying into the brands and purchasing the magazines are not inclusive in what is being promoted. Last seasons Fashion Week saw collections grace the catwalk in an array of colours, prints and patterns. The models on the other hand, did not communicate such a variance. Famed supermodels Iman and Naomi Campbell, alongside former model and modelling agency owner Bethann Hardison joined forces to form the Diversity Coalition. The organisation wrote a letter to leading fashion houses, addressing their questionable choices in the casting of models for their shows. They pressed on the notion that no matter the intention, the result is racism. Balenciaga, Chanel, Alexander McQueen, Valentino and Calvin Klein were just some of the labels that were boldly named. Several of these designers defended their casting choices; claiming their selection of models met the aesthetic of their shoot or collection. The justification in this decision being decidedly low. It is clear that the problem lies deeper than ‘aesthetic’ when the action is consistent with the designers brand. The world of fashion gains inspiration from the diversification of the people within it. One notion is fueled by the other. A synchrony that should be embraced.
Mahaneela Choudhury-Reid has worked in the modelling industry professionally for nearly four years. She was born in London, to an Indian mother and a Jamaican father and holds her personal identity very close to her cultural background. She feels strongly about the fact there is not enough representation of various different ethnic backgrounds. “They are each amazingly beautiful in their own distinct way. There is so much more to be said and showcased than just the standardised European view of fashion. A new generation of young and talented individuals are taking their first steps into the industry and in the last five years, industry individuals have placed a strong emphasis on the importance of change.
“I do have faith change will come.” Fashion photographer Alexandra Leese spoke of her thoughts on the issues. Since graduating three years ago, her work hasgraced the pages of Hunger Magazine, i-D, Asia Tatler and Harper’s Bazaar. Society is at a potential social turning point and so is the business. Will the work she produces hold the dated ideals that are still present in the current industry? Could a new level of freedom come with the production of work of a younger generation? “I think there will always be ‘ideals of beauty’. Theres no avoiding it. Especially whilst art exists. I have no problem with this notion. What is problematic though, is that many of the ideals today are unreachable for the majority of people. Many are fooled into the money-making scheme of advertising and marketing. I feel that it is easy to forget the level of fantasy that comes with fashion regardless. Creatives want to create beautiful clothes, that beautiful people wear and capture beautiful images of this.” As for diversity I think that there definitely needs to be more of a push for it. A push for cultures, ethnicities and ideals. It has been slowly increasing but it is a shame the area is still surrounded by such controversy. I do have faith change will come.” When asked how she felt about the link between representation and reality she said she felt they were becoming less and less tangible. “Would you say the timing of your entering the industry could have an effect on the style of work that is yet to be produced?”
“I think the generation of people I work with at this point in time are more open to diversity than ever before. The dated attitudes that have previously formed limitations in the industry seem to no longer have a place. I like to work on shoots that are inspired by cultures and subcultures, whether they be Black, White Asian etc.” “Is there hope yet for current fashion houses that are being brought up on their contribution or therefore lack of diversity?” “The speaking out of industry individuals is something I encourage hugely. So far it seems to be having a growing positive effect.”
“The dated attitudes seem to no longer have a place..”
It could not be any clearer that bold actions need to be made to make a much needed change. People should not have to identify diversity as a statement anymore. The moment we stop is the moment we have moved forward. Societal ideals are forever expanding. The world of fashion is one of great influence and dominance. Two notions that in present-day society should be reflective of the forever diversifying world it thrives within.
â€œThe moment we stop is the moment we have moved forward.â€?
“I think there will always be ideals of beauty.”
Amy wears Shirt by BDG available at Urban Outfitters, Watch by Gucci, Clutch by Zara
â€œBeautiful clothes, for beautiful people, captured in beautiful images.â€?
BRIGHT YOUNG THINGS
Anouk wears Leather Jacket by Acne, Shirt by The Kooples, Jumper by Zara Maha wears Coat by Topshop, Leather Top by Topshop
Phoebe wears Sunglasses by ASOS, Jumper by H&M
Olivia wears Top by Zara, Fur Gilet by H&M
Maha wears Coat by Topshop, Leather T-Shirt by Topshop, Hat by Naviv
Anouk wears Leather Jacket by Acne, Trousers by ASOS
Trainers by Nike
Phoebe wears Leather Jacket by Religion, Jeans by Topshop, Sunglasses by ASOS Maha wears Hat by Naviv, Top by Topshop, Jeans by American Apparel Anouk wears Jumper by Urban Outfitters, Leather Trousers by Isabel Marant weaAnouk wears Jumper by
BRIGHT YOUNG THINGS
Phoebe wears Hat available at NastyGal,, Leather jacket by Religion Daisy wears Hat by Supreme, T-Shirt by Topshop, Leather Jacket by Acne
From L-R Olivia wears Jumper by Topshop, Jeans by Topshop, Boots by River Island Phoebe wears Leather Jacket by All Saints , Jeans by Topshop, Shoes by Converse, Sunglasses by ASOS Maha wears Top by Topshop, Jeans by Ameri can Apparel, Shoes by River Island
THE WRITER THE TV
Anouk wears Jumper by Urban Outfitters, Leather Trousers by Isabel Marant, Boots by Topshop
STREET STYLE EDIT Phoebe, London Textile Designer Coat by Zara, T-Shirt by Topshop, Skirt by Illustrated People
Mikaela, Italy Retail Manager Vintage Fur Gilet, Sunglasses by Dior, Handbag by Celine
Clio, Newcastle Fashion Student Vintage Jewellery, Jumper by Sloppy Joe, Jeans by Topshop,Shoes by Urban Outfitters
Gloda, Russia International Art Student Scarf by Monki, T-Shirt Vintage, Blazer by Topshop Leggings by American Apparel Bag by Topshop
Amy, Hull Blogger Jumper, Jeans, Necklace by Zara, Boots by Topshop, Cape by Topshop Boutique, Sunglasses by Rayban Emma, Nottingham Trend Forecaster All Items by Topshop Necklace by Zara
IDEALS AND DIVERSITY ISSUE Fashion Features Production Angel Dimmick