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/  Pœ%&45*/"5*0/ 1  "3*4 œ$ "4& 4 56%: œ" %  ":*/1"3*4 œ5)&1"$, 5  )&41&/% œ$06/5&3 * /5&--*(&/$& œ16-4& œ 3  &5"*-5)&3"1: œ5)& (  -044"3: œ  8&--#&*/( œ':* œ 4 5:-&/0."%4 œ- "45 803% œ An introduction to

Recommended dress sensibility for Paris

A glimpse into the perfect

one by Carla Bamberger

Pulse’s pick of what to take & what

to splash out on, for him & for her

Truly scentsational

fragrances

The top weekend bags

Where

and what to buy, from vintage finds to the sweetest macarons

Tricks & treats, plus a focus on the best

pharmacies around

The key to “bien ĂŞtreâ€? in Paris

Need to know services

James De Givenchy,

Maria Luisa Poumaillou and Alexandre de Betak

The prickly issue of bad service


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9

e are in exciting times in France. At the time of publication, Ségolène Royal had clinched the Socialist Party nomination, representing a sea change in French politics. A sports-loving mother of four, she is passionate about her work, and represents a transformation not just in politics, but in France as we know it: old and fusty suddenly is on the wane, while young, fresh and energetic is the order of the day. We feel this way about many things in France, not just politics – arts and fashion are experiencing a refurbishment too: Le Tout Paris is buzzing about the newly announced Frank Gehry designed Louis Vuitton Foundation for Creation, to be built by 2010 /#1VMTF@*TTVF@1BSJT

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in the Bois du Bologne. Sixty-five thousand square feet of exhibition space will be dedicated to modern and contemporary art, as well as original commissions produced specifically for the space – an exciting new entry in the already buzzing world of art in Paris. The Louvre, always a trusted old dinosaur, was given new life by the Da Vinci Code. Even the museum’s officials, notoriously reticent in marketing, got caught up in the hoopla and organised Da Vinci Code tours, as interest in the museum reached new heights. l’Institut du Monde Arabe, built in 1988, is a relatively new example of architecture, but in terms of beauty and design, many argue that it is no less a stunning feat than the Arc de Triomphe or the Eiffel Tower.

Of course, we cannot talk about art and architecture in Paris without naming a central component of it: fashion. Is it surprising then, that so many fashion designers started off as either sculptors or painters? Is it less a surprise, that many of the young emerging talents, like Mme. Royal, are giving the old guard a run for their money? Not to say that we don’t love the “grandes dames” of French fashion. A trip to the Hermès flagship store at 24 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré will always be a singular experience, because it is there you will see the skill and craftsmanship of leather workers so magnificently displayed. Of course, there was a reason why gentlemen from the Duke of Windsor to Winston Churchill, from

Prince Charles to President Mitterrand had their shirts, ties and pocket squares made from Place Vendôme’s Charvet. The trusted old shirt-maker is still the world leader in being able to finely craft a gentleman’s garment or accessory. And of course there are the stable of LVMH designers, John Galliano, Marc Jacobs and Donna Karan included, who all combine to ensure that, in terms of luxury not only in Paris but worldwide, LVMH still is an authoritative presence. With all these wonderful brands and more, it is hard to believe that there could be room in the market, but there is: fabulous new designers, more whimsical, less commercial are nipping at the heels of the established brands, redefining luxury. It is /#1VMTF@*TTVF@1BSJT


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within this grouping of designers who are whittling away at the clichÊd image of the chic Parisian with the so-called effortlessly tied scarf, immaculate chignon and the tailleur. That image is crashing as quickly as a wait-listed garment – and we are happy for it. Now, the chic Parisian is edgy, daring, and more thoughtful rather than formulaic. She is dressed by the likes of Azzedine Alaïa known for his dark edginess, by David Szeto’s lighter than air confections and by the beguiling architectural pieces of VÊronique Leroy. And, there is a group of French brands to choose from, who having once lost their lustre, are shining brightly again. At the top of that heap is Lanvin: Alber Elbaz is a genius and is constantly pushing the boundaries of what can be done with fabric. Olivier Theyskens for Nina Ricci and Vanessa Seward for Loris Azzaro are also, with their wearable art, making their fashion houses proud once again. Then there is vintage, now being taken very seriously within Parisian fashion circles – and why not? Could anything be more luxurious for a true fashion connoisseur than to wear a piece from one of the great houses, when craftsmanship was at its height? A 40s Chanel dress, a 50s Dior coat, a 60s Hermès bag: wearing a piece of fashion history is truly making a statement in originality, and oh, what a far cry from the banality of owning a ubiquitous, cookie-cutter bag. Also to be admired is the way chic Parisian women – of all ages – mix vintage and the high street into /#1VMTF@*TTVF@1BSJT

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their look, and do it so well. It is this creative spirit, this individuality now that is setting Paris apart from other fashion capitals. So with a wealth of museums, shops and galleries to visit, it seems a pity to take time away from the bounty and hit a treadmill. Is it any wonder then that gyms have never really taken off in the City of Light? We can’t fault that, and heartily recommend talking a meditative walk through the Jardin du Luxembourg, or a refreshing autumn stroll across the Seine to the Notre Dame, where the views are simply magical. Eating moderately is also a key but by all means, indulge in chocolate, which recent reports suggest may be good for our hearts – and please allow us to guide you to Paris’ most scrumptious chocolatiers. Indulge in a massage, a facial, in having your hair done: we have searched out the best facilities for your needed down-time and for you to keep looking your best. Finally, we have short-listed our top pharmacies, from which you will find all sorts of elixirs and unguents, lotions and potions that will make you shine from the inside and out. We hope this research augurs well for your next trip to Paris, and that you enjoy our Paris edition as much as we have in compiling it for you. As usual, your feedback, concerns and comments are paramount, so please speak to us: we are here and listening. With best regards, Elaine Lassman

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Paris is to style as Yves Saint Laurent is to the black tuxedo, both inextricably linked. Replete with inspiring architecture and boulevards spilling with boutiques, Parisian style is conservative with a twist. Whether travelling for business or pleasure, wardrobes should reflect your impressive surroundings. Paris weather is similar to London, so pack simply – choose pieces that can be layered for warmth. The French love a great coat so follow suit, opt for a cashmere overcoat from McQueen, a navy trench by Balenciaga or short Vuitton duffle. Taller men should stick to longer lines and shorter men to coats above knee length. Underneath, wear lightweight wool suits; Hermès produce beautifully tailored versions in wool mixes with cashmere or silk. Despite a return to the double-breasted trend, stick to one or two buttoned single-breasted suits, they work better with overcoats. Mix the jacket with a pair of wool trousers and silk mix roll neck for a Sunday stroll through the Jardin des Tuileries. Parisian winters are cold, so invest in cashmere scarves and calfskin leather gloves. Paris style is influenced by district; around rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré the look is smarter with designer boutiques, chic hotels and art galleries. Venture across the Seine to St. Germain or to the Marais where style is more experimental, echoing the loft style apartments, artist studios and antique shops. Whichever style describes you, don’t forget to wear it with panache!

Trunk by Goyard. For stockist details see page 97.

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This winter the story in Paris, as with all its fashion city cousins, is dominated by what the French do so well: short, sassy, sexy – and jet black, as influenced by the likes of Azzedine Alaïa. More tailored, more graphic, women are able to adapt the shorter skirt by combining the opaque tight, the legging and the skinny straight legged trouser – depending, of course, on the individual’s shape and height. With the demise of the pointed toe and stiletto-heeled court shoe, this season is all about the ankle boot, the riding boot and the heavier heeled platform. Or, for those seeking a more elegant look, the high-fronted boot shoe or slimmer platform “MaryJane” is a great option. Strong accessories and a return to fur trims means your pack for Paris can be very compact and almost exclusively black. Throw in a Balenciaga crisp white poplin shirt and a Rick Owens cashmere wrap for warmth as the city can become bitingly cold at this time of year – think New York more than London cold, so multi-layer and wrap-up. Go for a riding boot during the day, particularly when navigating the cobblestone streets of Saint Germain and Le Marais. For extra glamour in the evening, add a jewelled blouse – Lanvin has some beautiful choices this season, along with a fur collar and bold costume jewellery. Then put on a pair of interesting gloves and statement clutch and you are set, regardless of whether it’s a three-star Michelin resto or a bistro in Les Marais. Amusez-vous!


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would stay at the Hotel Georges V Four Seasons and begin the day by treating myself to breakfast in bed with a croissant or pain au raisin and a black coffee. Any perfect day in Paris would then start with a car and driver because in this city you can never get a taxi when you need one. If there is a blue sky I would go straight out and visit some exhibitions in the morning, for example, anything at the MusÊe des Arts DÊcoratifs. Then, I would head to the Georges Pompidou Centre or hit a few galleries, in particular, Marian Goodman, Yvon Lambert and Thaddieus Ropac. I like to mix contemporary and traditional art – it is always interesting to see what is happening in both worlds. Also, since the Grand Palais has re-opened, I would try to book an exhibition there – it is always such a treat to have pre-booked tickets, it makes life so much easier. If time permits I would head to avenue Georges V to do some shopping – Givenchy, Balenciaga and Yves Saint Laurent are my favourites. Or I would go to Le Bon MarchÊ – I like it because, unlike Galeries Lafayette, it is not too big and there is a bridge that takes you across to their wonderful food shop La Grande Épicerie. I would then walk to St. Germain – it is always interesting to see what is happening there. People forget it is a great neighbourhood with beautiful apartments and stores, and Parisians as well as tourists go there. /#1VMTF@*TTVF@1BSJT

If I was still in St. Germain at lunchtime I would stop for a bite at L’Atelier de Joel Robuchon. However, if I was at le Grand Palais, I would lunch at Les Ombres, or CafÊ Marly if I was at the Louvre, which is beautiful. Otherwise, I would pay a visit to my favourite brassiere in the 4th called Benoit. In the afternoon I might look for something for my daughter, I would go to Zara as the Paris stores always have a great selection. For my son, I would visit Bonpoint. From there I would go to Guerlain on the Champs-ElysÊes which I love. My favourite scent is l’Heure Bleu, it is hard to find outside of Paris so I go there to stock up and also to pick up some of their special scented soaps. If there was time left I would buy an armful of flowers at Moulier in Place de Palace Bourbougnes or perhaps have a deep tissue massage at the Ritz spa. For dinner, anyone in Paris is spoiled for choice. I might make reservations at Le Voltaire, a beautiful, traditional restaurant, or Sensing which has recently re-opened and has interesting food or the very authentic french bistro L’Ami Louis. Afterwards, I would suggest an after dinner drink at Le Mathis or Le Baron and finally, I would highly recommend seeing the Crazy Horse show. It is not as touristy as people think and is wonderfully entertaining and definitely offers a little bit of Parisian magic. For details of Carla’s recommendations please contact the team at NB Pulse on +44 (0)20 7590 2562 or email theteam@nbpulse.com

contrast palladium reversible belt, sterling silver bulldog keyfob and cufflinks 48 jermyn street, 159 sloane street, selfridges, harvey nichols, harrods and online at www.dunhill.com 0845 458 0779 alfred dunhill, equipping gentlemen since 1893 /#1VMTF@*TTVF@1BSJT


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On model: Chaine & Trame coat by Rochas; sequined blouse with bow by Lanvin, Sautoir Pierres de Lustre necklace by Lanvin.

On floor, left to right: twinset by Ala誰a; jewelled cuff by Chanel; suede ankle boots by Ala誰a; patent shoes by Pierre Hardy; handbag by Ala誰a; gloves by Chanel; yellow gold and diamond La Dona watch by Cartier. For stockist details see page 97.

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On model: Black and white cotton pinstripe shirt with white contrast collar and black silk knit tie with small motif print both by Richard James; grey 3 button single breasted wool suit jacket by Marni; and black cashmere military coat by Burberry Prorsum. On floor, left to right: Grey wool suit trousers by Marni; plain black leather lace up shoes by Grenson; black Pasha seatimer watch by Cartier and grey and black wool scarf by Louis Vuitton. For stockist details see page 97.

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On model: black mink gilet by Rick Owens; white pearl Himalia drop necklace by Cartier. On chair: purple and black silk bra and camisole by Carine Gilson; mask and lace-top stockings by La Perla; dress by Rochas.

On floor, left to right: purple and black silk cami knickers by Carine Gilson; Himalia white pearl drop earrings (on dress) by Cartier; feathered shoes by Sergio Rossi; white gold and diamond Himalia bracelet by Cartier. With special thanks to: Dover Street Market; Joseph, Chanel, Cartier, Rick Owens, La Perla, Carine Gilson. For stockist details see page 97.

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On model: White dress shirt with pleat front and motherof-pearl buttons by Louis Vuitton; white gold Santos cufflinks by Cartier; black silk narrow tie by Dior; white cotton pique dress waistcoat, black wool and silk tuxedo jacket and cream silk pocket square all by Yves Saint Laurent. On chair: Black wool tuxedo trousers with satin waist by Yves Saint Laurent; black dial and yellow gold Dandy watch by Chaumet, yellow gold square Santos cufflinks by Cartier; black silk monogram tie and black silk tie with blue circle print both by Louis Vuitton; and black crocodile wallet by Hermès. On floor: Black patent lace up shoes by Dior. For stockist details see page 97.

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Left to right: Figuier Extrême by l’Artisan Parfumeur; Jasmin de Nuit by The Different Company; Fleur de Narcisse by l’Artisan Parfumeur; Les Feuilles by Lalique; Tubéreuse by Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier; /#1VMTF@*TTVF@1BSJT

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Millesime by Creed; bespoke scent by Francis Kurdjian; bespoke scent by Serge Lutens; Sira des Indes by Jean Patou; Joy by Jean Patou; Nuit Noire by Mona di Orio. For stockist details see page 97. /#1VMTF@*TTVF@1BSJT


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You are going away for a romantic weekend, and of course, you are not thinking about packing a lot of clothes. Perhaps you want to slip in some provocative lingerie from Carine Gilson, and, if you are daring, some grown-up toys. You barely need a change of outfit because the plan is to spend most of the time in a sumptuous hotel suite, so happily, a suitcase is out. A weekend bag then, one you can carry directly on to the flight, eliminates the need to line up for the carousel – and could anything be more luxurious than that freedom? So from the impressive selection out there, here are our top picks. Clockwise from top: Cream canvas holdall by Balenciaga; black ponyskin holdall by Florian Delacourt; black embossed leather holdall by Givenchy; dark green “48 Hours” bag in washed calf skin with gilded metal parts by Lanvin; red calf leather Bordeaux bag by Cartier; black leather holdall by Louis Vuitton; red leather weekend bag and tweed and brown leather “Ossian” weekend bag, both by Yves Saint Laurent. For stockist details see page 97.

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PulseParis1-4  

one by Carla Bamberger The key to “bien être” in Paris Need to know services James De Givenchy, to splash out on, for him &amp...

PulseParis1-4  

one by Carla Bamberger The key to “bien être” in Paris Need to know services James De Givenchy, to splash out on, for him &amp...

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