ANDROGYN ANDROGYNOUS FASHION MAGAZINE ISSUE 1
NATHAN & NAZAREE ON UNISEX REWIND\\
WAR IS COMING A 21st CENTURY SOVIET ARMY COLLECTION BY DESIGNER FLORINDA TAN ANDRO-TALE ANDROGYNOUS FASHION HISTORY
BLOGGER FEATURE KARL LEUTERIO ANA ZAMORA
SHIFTING ARCHETYPES PARADIGM SHIFT
AGYNESS X ANDREJ ABLAZE ON
5 MEN WHO MADE ANDROGYNOUS FASHION WORK ON BEAUTY NUDE, NOT NAKED DARK CHERRY
ANDROGYN FASHION MAGAZINE
CONTENTS EDITOR’S NOTE
NEWS & UPDATES
Agyness x Andrej 5 men who made androgynous fashion work
MAKEUP & TRINKETS
Ablaze on blazers Andro 101 YSL Andro-Tale War is coming Shifting Archetypes Unisex Rewind
Men’s fashion is never boring Yours Ain’t Just Yours
Karl Leuterio Ana Zamora
THE EDITOR’S NOTE Even though there are magazines that cater androgynous fashion articles or features, I have never seen a published magazine that provides one theme. This magazine represents months of preparation and inspired creativity to come up with a magazine that will take me forward as a multi-media arts student. The brief for this project was no mean feat: give something extraordinary, push boundaries, be impressive and be splendor. It wasn’t easy for me on creating this whole project. Scheduling and finding locations for photo shoots, looking for people to write articles, designers to feature and models for advertisements – it wasn’t easy but it wasn’t hard as well. Having the opportunity to express my creativity and pushing my limits was really exceptional. Androgynous fashion has always been here, it is practiced by most of us but we are not that aware what this kind of fashion really is. And with this magazine, I assure you, together with the people who helped me put this project into works, you’ll know everything that you need to know about androgynous fashion. On the cover: Model Naz Marzoña, who’s dusky beauty and strong eyes bring an androgynous fashion spin to any designer’s piece. I recall seeing he r for the first time. It was during a themed photo shoot for a photography class last, last year. She doesn’t need that much direction, she just move on her own and every pose she does was magnificent. I was hoping to get her as a model for a fashion shoot but she was always busy. And now, she’s one of the cover of my final project for college. I hope that you find the magazine as amazing as the fulfillment that I have experienced on producing this final project. Enjoy reading!
KORINA DE JESUS A graduate of UST Bachelor of Fine Arts Advertising She’s an eccentric and rib-tickling girl who loves to dress with the likes of Kate Lanphear, Carine Roitfeld, Anna Dello Russo and the list goes on. Together with a friend, she has a blog that was featured in Teen Vogue.
KACH NERIDA A senior student of De La Salle – College of Saint Benilde Bachelor of Arts Major in Multi Media Arts. She is not your ordinary girl; she likes wearing but- ton downs and sneakers to school and she likes cutting her hair short.
FLORINDA TAN A graduate of DLS-CSB Bachelor of Arts Fashion Design and Merchandising and owns an online shop, “Luscious Closet”, as a small business. Her designs have been worn by a lot of fashion bloggers; Tricia Gosingtian, Lissa Kahayon and Camille Co to name a few.
NICOLE BRINGAS Graduated from DLS-CSB BS-HRIM. A very enthusi- astic when it comes to fash- ion; this is mainly because of the modeling school that she grew up in – John Rob- ert Powers. She’s recently working at IBM Global Pro- cess Services as an agent.
JULIE ASENTISTA A graduate of Bachelor of Science in Nursing at Our Lady of Fatima University. Julie is a freelance writer who loves ob- serving people and criticizing them the way they move. She’s multifaceted in the talent division – she can draw, write, paint, and the list go on.
FRANZ SALVADOR Graduated from UST Bach- elor of Science Major in Medical Technology and now working in Health Delivery System, Inc. Franz is very fond of fashion. He likes to dress up the way he wanted not minding what other peo- ple will tell about him.
NEWS & UPDATES
AGYNESS X ANDREJ BY: FRANZ ZALVADOR The rapid pendu- lum of fashion swings mercilessly to change the landscape of trends, style and even pop culture. And for most people working behind the glamor of the fashion business, keeping a sense of continuous re- invention is just an under- statement. In the modeling industry, keeping a svelte figure, having exquisite bone structure and mas- tering the art of versatility puts a tremendous amount of pressure to be able to mold into any mannequin to carry any fashion piece.
Pejic adds that he also walked at the John Galliano and Paul Smith shows and posed for various Vogue covers.
Another androgynous model making headlines is Agyness Deyn. She has the all important X factor and sense of style- a bit all new and different- from her platinum cropped hair to mod-punk style. Her unique look and remark- able character put her on the covers of Vogue Italia, British Vogue, and Time Magazine. Her steady gaze and perfect angles made While the cult of prefect yet boring models has a it to Burberry and Giorgio Armani campaigns. considerable following, it is a good thing to have Agyness Deyn and Andrej Pejic buck into the tide So Agyness Deyn is a girl who looks like a boy of a sea of generic models and come out to rede- and An- drej is a boy who looks like a girl. This fine versatility at the catwalk of gender bending. is how mind bog- gling the fashion industry can get. As the androgynous look starts to reshape Andrej Pejic is notable for both being androgy- fash- ion, clothing houses, design- er labels nous and possessing the rare ability to success- and even models, the impact it has created is fully model both male and female clothing. “I arguably a societal redefini- tion. “Society and think people in the industry get bored easily es- cultural values have changed, are changing. pecially now that everything has been done and People- young and old- are more accepting every so often they need new toys to play with.” all kind of sexuality” explains Matthew Anderson, director of Chadwick Models in Melbourne. 6
Agyness DEYN PEJIC Andrej
5 MEN WHO MADE ANDROGYNOUS FASHION WORK
BY NICOLE BRINGAS
Prince’s 4” boots, B. Scott’s lovely locks, and David Bowie’s vibrant style are better than most supermodels I know. They are few of the men whose unique talent on fashion sense makes them stand out from the rest, made androgyny work and caused a lot of us to care how interesting their style can be.
David Bowie was a fashion icon long before God knows when. He created a lot of signature looks throughout the years. Bowie’s clothes aren’t wholly made for characters he creates in and out of the spotlight, but an art representation of the different points-of-view that reside within him. He, indeed, stands a true definition of glam rock.
Playing with a thin line of womanly and robust style, Prince never failed on rocking 5” stilettos. He’s the man behind the color in rock and roll, adding few colors to the familiar black scheme. Not hesitating on ruffled blouses and crushed velvet shades of purple. He was the graven image of Lil’ Wayne’s leopard leggings and LMFAO’s neon striped pants.
LENNY KRAVITZ Lenny Kravitz’s relationship with his closet is every woman’s fantasy. All flamboyant and fierce, Kravitz knows how to test the limits of fashion without catapulting himself over the border. A touch of dark shades on fringe jackets and distressed denim, he makes grunge look beguiling.
An androgynous model who played with his mother’s makeup as a child - wore eyeliner on the streets as a teenager - didn’t occur to him that he could be mistaken for a woman. Garnering attention for his striking resemblance to the opposite sex, Stav did not stayed as an underground cult fave long enough. Living a low profile, Stav marked as the new Andrej Pejic.
ANDREJ PEJIC Gracing the runways of Marc Jacobs and Jean Paul Gaultier in his 20s, Andrej made a name for himself as a model – for both men’s and women’s fashion. His long blonde hair amplified his androgynous façade, beautifully handsome or handsomely beautiful, this Bosnian guy is a model that any fashion designer would die to model for their collections.
MAKEUP & TRINKETS
NUDE, not NAKED A no makeup doesnâ€™t have to be bland. These palettes give enough color and kick for that natural everyday beauty. BY EICA DECEPIDA
EYES Keep the brows natural, put only a little just to even the shape. For the lashes, a clear mascara will do the job. If youâ€™re going out at night, you can add a nude shade of eye shadow to add a little shimmer in the eyes. FACE A concealer will handle everything to hide all the blemishes and darkening of the eye bags. Face powder is no longer needed to this type of makeup; Keeping everything all natural. Add a small portion of blush powder on the cheeks to add a little color to the face. LIPS
MAKEUP BY EICA DECEPIDA
Use nude colors. You can use lipstick or just gloss, depending on your skintone.
DARK CHERRY Mix strawberries with dark cherry and you get a sexy, venamous red. Think of it as an amplified red plum that doesn’t need to go with anything else not even blush or brows. BY EICA DECEPIDA
SLEEK & SHINY Hair is completely pulled back to redirect your focus on the face. Finally a reason to put aside volumizers and curlers and just let a fine-toothed comb and ponytail do the job.
MESSY BUN A messy bun doesn’t really define ‘messy’. Not doing a sleek ponytail also gives you an edge. If models can rock this type of hairstyle, so can you. All you need are your fingers and a ponytail and you’re off to go.
MAKEUP & TRINKETS
BY COI DE JESUS
( L - R ) C O I D E J E S U S, R H A I L A B O R T E , G I G S D E J E S U S v i s i t : s i a m e s e s k y. b l o g s p o t . c o m
ABLAZE ON BLAZERS: Finding the right blazer BY RIN TAN
If there is one fashion staple that every woman must have in her closest, it is the blazer. Blazers have always been a necessity when it comes to boosting fashion styles for women. It is a clothing piece that every girl should have in her wardrobe. It doesnâ€™t only give your look a whole new feel to it, but also some personality. Blazers come in various cuts and sizes and colors. Here are few popular cuts and why you need it in your life: Model: JERMAINE CONTRERAS MakeUp Artist & Stylist: BANGGO NIU Designer: RIN TAN
THE SUIT BLAZER The quintessential work staple, a suit blazer will oftentimes come with coordinating bottom pieces. The “work” blazer will ideally be in a neutral shade of navy, grey, or black. Suit blazer can also be worn over a very casual look to pull off a smart office wear look. You can also pair up your suit blazer with shorts and a pair of heels for an event or a party. It doesn’t only ensure your look to be refined but also professional as well.
THE CASUAL BLAZER Prints, leather, embellishments â€“ only a few to describe a casual blazer. Can look perfectly with a pair of jeans or denim shorts. Casual blazers have a tendency to be in fun, trendy colors and patterns unlike the suit blazer. It just depends on expressing the latest season trend. In the Philippines, some people prefer their blazers with studs and patches, but some prefer with no lining to have that light feel to their whole frontage.
THE CASUAL BLAZER These are the type of blazers that you can always pair with a high-waste pencil skirt or stylish dress. Like the casual blazer, cropped blazers can also come in colors and embellishments. You can always mix and match everything depending, again, with the latest season trend.
ANDRO 101 BY ALEXANDRA CHENG
Mix different elements; studded denim jacket, printed sweater, and leather skirt. All elements made the look tough and at the same time chic. 20
studded denim jacket
leopard scarf print sweater
leather pencil skirt
wedge boots sneakers
To achieve this androgynous look, pair a crop top with printed pants and finished off the look with a leather jacket. Getting just the right mix of femininity and masculinity.â€¨
black leather jacket
denim crop top
Khakis or high-waist pants
Wedge sneakers are the new fad. Add then to your simple style and achieve that tomboy look and still execute that fashionable facade. Add a snapback and youâ€™re off to go!
plain muscle top blouse
wedge boots sneakers
Leather was the main inspiration for this look. Leather vest with a printed top, and leather skirt makes this look Androgynously chic. Most of the time, Androgynous looks stick to a monotonous color or colors that stick to the same gradient. â€¨
white sleeveless leather jacket
printed sleeveless blouse
white leather straight skirt
You can never go wrong with an all black ensemble. With the all black ensembles and leather jacket, it gives a sense of masculinity mixed with the cropped top and leather skirt.
black leather jacket
black crop top
leather fall skirt with slit
wedge boots sneakers
Cropped top with denim jeans give that tomboy feel. But the print of the cropped top makes the whole look very feminine and interesting.
printed crop top
leopard scarf print sweater
BY KACH NERIDA
MEN’S FASHION IS NEVER BORING Androgyny has sudden been the talk of fashion enthusiasts these days. Girls wearing men’s polo and guys wearing satin and floral polos are not a rare sight anymore. People are starting to embrace the fact that fashion, too, does not rely on gender or sex. A living example would be Andrej Pejić. Andrej Pejić is a Bosnian Australian androgynous model. Pejić is notable for both being androgynous and possessing the rare ability to successfully model both male and female clothing.
Also, Italian fashion designer, Giorgio Armani best described his approach to fashion as follows: “I was the first to soften the image of men, and harden the image of women.” Therefore, androgyny has been in the industry for a long time. It has just sunk in what fashion blogger Amit Anand mentioned in his blog last February 29, 2012:
“Today we have designers who are talented and open minded beyond comparison. They have all the freshest ideas that they can easily incorporate and translate into any fashionable man’s everyday wardrobe but they need daring and confident men with the right attitude towards fashion- Men who can push the envelope further– Men who are as open minded about embracing style that is different from their age-old and classic sartorial perceptions.” Thru androgyny we are able to be creative by mix-and-matching from both men and women’s wardrobe. Besides, a lot of the designs available in the market these days are unisex. The wide-variety of patterns, colors and sizes makes it even more exciting for men to express their individuality through the way they dress. And whoever said men’s fashion is boring clearly needs to go out of his or her cave. 32
PA U L S M I T H S P R I N G / S U M M E R C O L L E C T I O N 2 0 1 3
YOURS AIN’T JUST YOURS B
Tailored jackets, V-neck t-shirts, topsiders, brogues, cropped pants and bow ties -- question is, which closet have I been raiding? Those pieces aren’t just in your brother’s or your boyfriend’s wardrobe anymore, they’re in yours too. Jotting down the common things that you would find in men and women’s closets would give your an almost mirrored list because the androgynous look is in. Androgyny is defined as being partly male and partly female in appearance. Like the men hitting up a notch in the fashion scene, women’s taste in clothes are evolving too. A proof that most girls are part of this trend, is that they usually comment on their guys “outfits” because they secretly want to wear them or they end up keeping their boyfriend’s blazer after a cold, night out or maybe your boyfriend is wearing that adorable polka-dotted long sleeved shirt, hugging those arms he works out for in the gym. Those neutrals, mute colors, earth tones, and tailored pieces of clothes make the girly get-up more manly, as to guys, the pastels, bright colors and prints make the guys outfits more feminine. In the scene, you might have seen young professionals showing up in their business casual looks, walking around Eastwood, Makati or maybe around the Fort during friday nights, looking for a place to chill or to drink.
In the scene, you might have seen young proTheseshowing yuppies, are usually sport fessionals up in their business casual thewalking androgynous look by wearlooks, around Eastwood, Makati or maybe around the Fort during friday nights, ing those pantsuits for women, looking for abrightly place to chill or to drink. These or the colored blazers yuppies, are usually sport the androgynous for men. They’re not too formal look by wearing those pantsuits for women, or theycolored give you theforaura sotheyet brightly blazers men. of They’re worknotphistication too formal yetneeded they give for you the the aura of sophistication needed for the workplace -place -- and not too dressed-and notup too for dressed-up for the hours the hours spentspent outoutofof work.
work. The mute colors or earth tone colors represent formality, equality and class amongst men and women. These colors, transcends the feminine and masculine gap in fashion. Both men and women wear the camel, tan and khaki, whether it’s cropped pants, straight-cut or skinny. This gives you the sense of equality amongst them. The tomboy-look amongst females, give them the sense of being in control. The alpha-female aura will exude from the broader shoulders they’d have from the boyish cut of the outfit they are wearing. This just means that the gender does not stop clothes from being worn. A couple could share a satchel if the outfit begs for it, mixing and matching of men’s and women’s accessories makes the androgynous look more “angsty”. The colors are key components to expressing the visual of gender difference, the more bright or pastel the color -- the more female it is, then dark, mute or neutral colors represent masculinity in which the trend now, surpasses that stereotypical look in fashion.
Androgyny doesn’t stop with clothes. Most of the girls nowadays are chopping their long hair off to get the pixie cut or the boy cut. Aside from being a trend, it has the maintenance level of guys’ hair, so girls are more attracted to the ease having short hair has. Though many people think that this is a drastic change and might affect how people see you, just like Miley Cyrus did with her hair. The public was so shocked with the way Miley changed her look and it raised some eyebrows. So better yet consult your friends and especially yourself quite a few times before chopping your hair off or shaving your head because even though it grows back, it will take time and effort. Haircuts, like any other trend, apply to certain body types in order to work. The pixie cut or the short do work best with heart shaped faces, and with slim women. If your face were rounded, then a boy cut wouldn’t really work for you
In the scene, you might have seen young proThere showing are certain hairdos fessionals up in their business that casual looks, walking around Eastwood, Makati or don’t really apply do all body maybe around the Fort during friday nights, types and if you don’t consult looking for a place to chill or to drink. These enough or the right people those yuppies, are usually sport the androgynous would endthose uppantsuits as hair-don’ts. look by wearing for women, or rule doesn’t really theThis brightly colored blazers for men. apply They’re nottotooguys formalbecause yet they give you the of most ofaura them sophistication needed for the workplace -have “angled” faces, most guysand not too dressed-up for the hours spent out of have square faces with promiwork.
nent jaw lines, so there are less variations of haircuts with guys but most of them are flaunting their faux-hawks, mohawks and their intricately designed sides leaving the sideburns forgotten. Whether we like it or not, fashion is definitely evolving, though most pieces used or worn now were already seen during the ‘70s and the ‘80s and most probably were found in your mom and your dad’s closet during those decades (and you might be wearing them now). The said evolution redefines fashion as the line that separates the men and the women, to the common path they’re going through to gain EVEN fashion equality.
Model: MARCO RUSSELL MakeUp Artist: LIO JAVIER Stylist: JOHNROI ESGUERRA
To some, being androgynous is scandalous because the LGBTs are being accepted yet not all are accepting, but like Lady Gaga, getting scandalous is being hot and trending. Not all people can rock the androgynous look, like for women with curves, it will be difficult for them to appear manly, but it should not stop them from trying out stuff that would best satisfy their need to look more like the “alpha” amongst both the males and females. Maybe brogues with killer studs and a fedora would do the trick, but it would really depend on how much you want to look more manly or more feminine (when it comes to the guys) to rock the androgynous look. If your a bit skeptical about it, try wearing your boyfriend’s glasses or his letterman jacket, if it gives you the sense of “power” or an instant ego boost then androgyny is for you. But if not, don’t fret; maybe the Dita Von Teese aura is more of your thing. Wink. Wink.
F E A T U R E S
C O I
J E S U S
The designer whoâ€™s inspired by his enduring fascination on resuscitating the past lead his way on designing the yet biggest revelation on fashion history. He, who captivated chivalrous and theatrical aesthetic, made him the most influential designer of his generation, inspiring young designers of today. 38
On his early years; born as Yves Henri Donat Mathieu-SaintLaurent in Oran, Algeria, to Charles and Lucienne Andrée MathieuSaint-Laurent, he grew up in a villa by the Mediterranean with his two sisters, Michelle and Brigitte. Having a father that was a lawyer and insurance broker, childhood for the future fashion icon was never easy. Often bullied by schoolmates for his
looks like his safari jacket with tight pants and thigh-high boots, and most memorably, Le Smoking, the classic tuxedo suit for women. Giving power to women with men’s clothes. In 1966, at age 33, Saint Laurent introduced Rive Gauche, a ready-to-wear collection, and a boutique of the same name. He was the first designer to use black models in his runway shows.
homosexuality and being nervous most of the time are just a few. However, he found comfort in the world of fashion. It started in his early teen years, when he was designing dresses for his mother and younger sisters. Advanced for one’s age, he entered a design contest, International Wool Secretariat, and won the attention of Christian Dior – a giant in the fashion world. Maturity on Saint Laurent’s style kept on coming and further gained notice under Dior’s tutelage. On his own; At the age of 25, he opened his own fashion house in cooperation with his partner and lover, Pierre Berge. With the rise of pop culture and a general yearning for original and fresh designs, Saint Laurent’s timing couldn’t have been better. Over the next two decades, Saint Laurent’s designs became phenomenal. He outfitted women in androgynous
On his later years; Yves Saint Laurent becomes the epitome of a true icon at age 47. But turning into a reclusive person, it famously marred his career; he submerged himself in addiction of substance abuse that injured his health, causing some of his works going stale. But later on found his grip in the early 1990s when a fashion elite rediscovered his designs. In 1998, he and Berge sold his ready-to-wear house to Gucci Group, ensnaring them fortune. Together, they created a foundation in Paris to commemorate the history of the house of YSL. He had his final show in January 2002 and retired for good. Yves Saint Laurent, who roared his way to the top at the age of 22 became the most influential and recognized fashion designer of the late 20th century, died on June 1, 2008, in Paris after a brief illness. He was 71.
Model: AIKA YAMAGUCHI MakeUp Artist: LIO JAVIER Stylist: ALEX LIZARES
ANDRO TALE ONE STEP BACK ON ANDROGYNOUS FASHION'S HISTORY BY JULIE ASENTISTA
Fashion has been experimental from time to time, and designers even crossed the line of gender-bending clothes. Unisex fashion or Androgyny is simply merging of both feminine and masculine characteristics. Taking elements from both sex, combining it to create a new one. Androgynous fashion not only occurred recently, but has been with us way back from the time of western womenâ€™s liberation.
Model: RODINA LUSPO MakeUp Artist: LIO JAVIER Stylist: RICA RICO
The time of true liberation of western women. A long-stem cigarette seemed to be a permanent fixture and women were always too drunk to function. They were experimental, rebellion on heist rejecting the social norms and became a nonconformist of everything that was taught to them. These women they call the ‘flappers’, an entirely new genre of youth echoing male fashion. Long strips of clothing minimizing the appearance of their breasts and haircuts they call bobbed hairstyle never missed a flapper façade. But it wasn’t always about the fashion, these women also proved to men that they were capable of being functionable citizens; holding down jobs and making decisions for themselves.
“Models like Twiggy began wearing boyish haircuts while men participating in the hippie idealization grew their hair past their shoulders” said independent fashion stylist, Palacios who is based in Seattle, WA. This was also the time where rock stars from the mid-1950s were wearing feather boas, embroidered jackets and vibrant-colored jeans. Designers have seen this fashion expression and then they began producing lines with the abovementioned ideas. But as far as high fashion was concerned, ‘Le Smoking’ provided women the opportunity to wear sleek male suits. A tuxedo-style suit for women, created in 1966 by YSL, became hugely involved in furthering the popularity of androgynous look.
Women move to high-power management positions and unisex fashion once again reflected the changing mood of society. This is where Power Dressing came to life â€“ including elements of menswear with traditional womenâ€™s wear. Pairing tailored jackets to knee-length skirts or slacks and a buttoned up to the neck blouse with a broach as an accessory really gave the feminine look with masculine influence.
With the rising of personalities like Prince and spandex-wearing David Bowie, pop culture embraced once again the visualization of androgyny. These british glam-rock explosions made way to the “gender-bender” communities, people who are unclear to their sexuality, blurring lines between masculinity and femininity. ““While a greater America steered towards more conventional bell-bottoms and peasant tops, mainstream UK didn’t spare a second to add gold lame, glitter, and feathers to existing garments and collections,” said Palacios.” This over-the-top trend may not have been widely spread but wide-leg, flared trousers, which both sex can wear, did seep into mainstream fashion.
Burberry, Marni and Gucci gave notice again to androgynous fashion after the trend not being predominant in the 1990s. They showed strong unisex tuxedos and suits on the catwalks for Fall 2009. Garcons, Dior and Armand Basi One use strong leather bomber jackets and oversized garments to create the look.
The art to unisex dressing can be tricky, but if you take the right elements from the opposite sexes and accessorize it with the right ornament, you can have your way on making a bold statement and be situated away from the usual. A little tricky, but can also be fun.
DESIGNER FLORINDA TAN CREATES 21ST CENTURY SOVIET ARMY INFUSED WITH POLO SPORTS. There is a war between elements and colors, a war between genders. Warm and solid hues embraced strong and dominating faĂ§ade. The woman is a warrior, a leader and a fighter all at once. Designer and businesswoman Florinda Tan arms her muses in strong provocative arm suit evoking power while retaining their essence as a lady. This brawny collection made especially for her thesis fashion show design â€“ toeing the lines of patriotism and sophisticated androgynous vibe. These creations fully extracted the man inside of every woman. Modified in shades of navy blue, olive green and maroon, the palette fully embraced a very strong and domineering feel.
Model: ANNA BUQUID MakeUp Artist: LIO JAVIER Designer: RIN TAN
SHIFTING ARCHETYPES P A R A D I G M
S H I F T
R I N
T A N
“We’d love to call it basics with a twist, except, we leave the ‘twisting’ to you.” An alternative to mainstream clothing designed with details that challenge biased notions of what you think you can and cannot wear. A fascination for the peculiar, this clothing style is once familiar but in a second became unfamiliar. Paradigm Shift Clothing is fruit of hard work and creativity by designers, Mike Magallanes and Karl Leuterio. “If the world were clear, art would not exist” – Albert Camus. “We agree. The beauty we find in dissymmetry, exaggeration and imbalance fuels our dream of sharing the experience of wearing clothes dynamically. To never be static and always be kinetic.” – Mike & Karl
JP SINGSON T
M o d e l : N AT H A N M E N D O Z A & N A Z M A R Z O Ñ A M a k e U p A r t i s t : E I C A D E C E P I D A S t y l i s t : J P C U I S O N
When asked how his love for fashion started, it boils down to one thing – moving on from a broken relationship. “It was just something for me to do, it was sort of an escape for me. I’ve never imagine to have it as a career” JP explains. “Fashion helped me to move on, and there’s more to life than just being in love.” “Before, my life just revolved around my partner, I never really enjoyed myself.”
Coming from the United States, JP went to live in Manila with his Mom with the dream of becoming a stylist. Having a unique and different vision on style, JP wasn’t able to please some of the major publications, “they would like something that is [more] commercial”. “So I figured, why not just play with my mom? And it was good, so that she’ll not end up always being at Preview Magazine’s best dressed.” “We don’t have a lot of older women rocking this kind of fashion and it was something refreshing to have someone”. JP said with exuberance as he talks about his muse – her Mom. Escaping away from the usual, he has always been different when it comes to style. “Even before people were rocking skinny jeans, I’ve been wearing those years before it became a trend.” The look for stores that caters modern, eclectic and progressive fashion made him open his own boutique, Unisex Rewind, which simply mirrors his personal style. “I want to provide an alternative for people other side from what you see in the malls.” A concoction of new and vintage pieces from designers and personalities, Unisex Rewind sells pieces that all work together no matter what you pick. Unlike other branded stores and boutiques that has mixed up and confusing style of clothing. “It is something that my mom or I would were. This store is like an extension of our closet.” When talking about commitment, JP never misses a second. He prioritizes his business more than any other else. “I tend to cancel attendance on fashion shows because there’s a bazaar event and my boutique is a part of it.” Who else can be the best seller than the owner himself? “If I have somebody to man my booth, they might not explain the products I sell.” JP is indeed, very hands-on with his items. He never aimed on becoming a millionaire through his boutique because he believes that there is no money in fashion. And at the end of the day, money won’t make you happy. But being passionate enough and believing that the fashion industry in Manila is really growing, JP wants to be part of it. “Our country needs some people with strong vision, there’s a reason why I’m here. I really want to make sure that I’m here when the Philippine fashion takes off.” 79
“A lot of people think that I’m a designer but I’m not.” “I have an eye for fashion; unfortunately, I am no good on sketching. Everything you see here, I collaborate with designers or labels. But designing from scratch, that’s not something I do. Maybe in the future, but not right now.” Fashion in the Philippines has always been an intriguing topic. When you ask about Korean fashion, you’ll know what Korean fashion is; same with Japanese, European, etc. “Sometimes it’s quite depressing when I hear about foreigners talk about their fashion and when you ask, ‘what’s the fashion in the Philippines?’ and I can’t really say much.” The Philippines fashion industry might still be figuring out what our country’s distinctive style is and JP sure believes that it’s coming up real soon – “and we need also to patronize local labels”. Unisex Rewind caters a lot of local designers; Miadore, Custodio, and OS. “I’m very proud with the labels I carry. They have visions with their designers. Hopefully there are a lot of designers like that will sprung.”
When asked about his philosophy on fashion, JP made it clear that less is indeed more. Inspired by Japanese fashion designers like Yohji Yamamoto and Issey Miyake; Martin Margiela and Belgian designers, Raf Simons, Ann Demeulemeester and Dries Van Noten; American designers like Rick Owens; and some Avat Garde designers. “My mom and I are advocates of ‘less is more’. We try to ‘educate’ people that you don’t need to wear so much to make an impression.” This man, who doesn’t go for high-end brands, believed that the secret on styling is all about mix and matching. It doesn’t matter if you’re wearing a designer-labeled clothing or something that is wearable hand-me-down pieces. And adding a little character to that style is definitely a cherry on top of an ice cream. “If you wear all these flashy clothes but you can’t carry it very well, then it’s useless.”
JP does not only lurk himself on styling, he’s also a keen runway and street fashion photographer. “I fly to Paris to watch fashion shows. But I don’t go to mainstream shows, I usually go to shows of incoming designers.” He’s been covering fashion week abroad for almost 3 years, just something to put on his blog but eventually turned into something that is more to blogging – magazine features. In 2010, he started covering local and international fashion shows for Status Magazine and Metro Magazine and also several publications abroad. And just recently, he covered fashion shows from Paris, Berlin and Copenhagen. As for his future quests, he definitely considers covering for London Fashion Week and Milan Fashion Week as well.
Do you have any celebrities or personalities that you get style inspirations? My friends mainly because I have so many stylish friends and it’s fun to reference each of their style and make it an inspiration so it will work on my style. Specifically, the Canadian designer RAD Hourani is my idol. His ethos speaks so much about what I like in fashion.
Who are your favorite local designers? If [by] favorite means that I want to wear their creations, then Don Protasio is my most favorite. I also love Proudrace for their 90s street sensibility. I could wear their clothes in Manila, any day of the year. Who are your favorite international designers? [There are] so many. But since you asked; Yohji Yamamoto, Rei Kawakubo, Rick Owens, Rad Hourani, Christian Carol Poell, Haider Ackermann, Margiela, Helmut Lang, Nicolas Ghesquire, Ricardo Tisci, [and more]. What are you favorite shopping destinations? I have a generous kind-hearted aunt who gives me stuff from time to time. [But] if I really want something, I buy it online. Sometimes, I buy stuff from friends because most of them are shoe designers, accessory designers, etc. life is easier this way. Whenever I’m on a budget, I rummage thrift shops and department stores. Are there any fashion items you couldn’t leave the house without? (Hmm..) not really. But I have to bring a bag always. I feel naked without a bag. Even if it’s a trashy canvas bag, I still need one whenever I go out. I am a camper! (Haha!) Fashion for you is? [Fashion] is complex. It’s negative and at the same time positive and it keeps sanity in this world. It helps in the equilibrium of life. It’s a celebration of oneself.
“my style is a melting pot of Euro Goth – Japan 90s – but all minimal and androgynous at the same time”
Do you have any celebrities or personalities that you get style inspirations? Jujiin Samonte forever!!! (Hehe) He is my Ate’s friend and he is awesome. I love everything he wears and he has a boyfriend and his name is Paulo Castro and he always dresses awesome also and they are adorable together! Who are your favorite local designers? Team Manila! I also love Mich Dulce’s stuff, but I don’t know if she’s still counted as a local designer because she’s always in London these days. Who are your favorite international designers? No one specific that I can think of at the moment, but I really love Japanese fashion. My Ate has also shown me a bunch of great Thai designers. What are you favorite shopping destinations? Here in Manila, I like going to Top Shop, Team Manila, and ukay-ukay! (I haven’t been to one in a really long time, though.) I have also realized that online stores based here in Manila have a lot of nice clothes, too. Other than those places, I also like walking around in Singapore and Hong Kong. (And if I’m lucky, maybe one day I get to go back to Japan to look at all the adorable stuff there!!!) Are there any fashion items you couldn’t leave the house without? My rosary! (I do not think it is a fashion item, but it’s really the only thing I can’t leave the house without.)
“My sister calls it girly tomboy! (This means there are days when I want to be really girly, and days when I like looking like a boy)”
Fashion for you is? (I had to look up the meaning of fashion for this!) The definition says that it’s something that currently trendy, but I don’t think that’s what fashion is for me – I think it’s just wearing clothes that represent who you are as a person, maybe. I like wearing clothes that remind me of myself – it’s my little way of introducing myself without having to talk :-))