#Manifestoâ€™s Manifesto... Youth, precious treasure, you go to never come back. When I want to cry I donâ€™t cry, and sometimes I cry without knowing why. Otero, Miguel. First and foremost, the authors say, the manifesto stands in support of all the lost souls of the millennial generation; the sons and daughters of an era full of crisis, unpaid internships and Jersey Shore. We can say without exaggeration that never has civilization been menaced so seriously as today, we see world civilization, united in its historic destiny. Modern technology has defined and united the younger population, the need to be communicated has ruled over the century; this generation is condemned to die while texting. With a population of 2 (Million) Broke girls, desperation is reaching breaking point, graduates are paying billboards to get the attention of possible employers, there are only two types of jobs in the modern
civilization; the unpaid internships and the manager who control and oppress the before named, no entry positions for the young people. We hold these truths to be self-evident: all recruiters are bitches, your work resume is fine, some are rich for nothing, some work too hard and they are still poor, you only live once, and of course that that all men and women are created equal; that they are endowed by their 6
#Say what? Creator with certain inalienable rights; that among these are life, liberty, and the pursuit of happiness. Whenever any form of government becomes destructive of these ends, it is the right of those who suffer from it to refuse allegiance to it; for many years, politics were underrated giving power to the governments to abolish many laws that protected the younger citizens without complaints from them, but now when a new generation is being diminished by all the consequences of these actions, youth is retaking the political activism of former successful predecessors. It is not only a duty, but also a right to be involved in the actions and decisions that will forever change the course of the life of many juvenile beings.
perish in the pursuit of happiness. Every role is being played by some other member already, the only thing that humanity can do to affront this situation, is to create a new character, from the beginning, write a new story and a new history for this main character that will change the rules of the play, that itÂ´s known in the dodgy ends as, life. Life is just too short to be bothered. Our aims are: To die happy. To become a millionaire. Signs MM. Andrea Holmqvist.
The can do attitude has become the only way to break the chains of those who rule the world, those who cannot summon the strength to take it will probably 7
Content Copy and paste... p10
Gay is the new black... p22
Fringe Fever... p12
Our house in the middle of
A Happy death... p14
the street... p26 Winter is coming... p28 A guide from the past... p34
9 Latin American designers you should know, but probably donÂ´t... p16
Are you going trough the quarter-life crisis... p40 Twenty years of grunge... p44
list No room for brogues... p56 Manic lister... p58
All you need is love, a lot of love... P48 Made in Iswai... p54 Muggles or wizards... p60
#Copy and paste: French Connection Astler Top
The Kooples Viscose trousers
Toms Classic glitter slip-on
Alpha Industries MA-1 TT Flight Jacket
Topman White mesh classic vest
Adidas AO Hook shot trainers
H&M White Trousers
#Fringe Fever In ancient times fringes were a symbol of high status and nobility; only important people were allowed to wear them. For the Hebrews blue tassels were reserved only for the religious leaders. Native American wore fringed leather pieces to battle to demonstrate power, but also for their practical use function as handy strips of leather available to sew up a busted moccasin, a torn seam, or to tie things together when you were in the field. As per 2013 fringes have become a mega popular fashion statement, one of the many 90s style comebacks. The kinetic effect they have reminds us of movement, festivals, summer, dance and about always going forward.
H&M fringed bag
H by Hudson boots
Warehouse fringed neckline dress
Hollywood capture top
French Connection Snake Chain collar
#A happy death... :s Death has always been a popular subject throughout the history of humanity, the iconography paying homage to it, is as old as history itself. Some try to deny it, but there is always something rather appealing about the macabre, and unknown that surrounds the mystery of death.
Mexicans have a very special way to portrait death. Every 1st of November they celebrate the Day of the dead, to remember specially those who are no longer amongst us. Calacas (Skeletons) are frequently shown as joyous wearing festive clothing, and marigold flowers and foliage. They are often shown dancing, and playing musical instruments to indicate a happy afterlife. This particular depiction of death has become one of the trendiest prints for 2013.
#9 latin american designers you 1Hernan Lander- Dominican Republic Thanks to the internet the world became a global village, and people from the farthest corners of the world started having a voice. Fashion has been immensely influenced by this new found globalness, true that before that, exotic lands and different cultures have served as inspiration for seamstress and designers, but now it goes beyond simple colours, fabrics and fashions; there is a real connection to the way people act and feel, the way they dress and the reasons why they do it. Latin-America has never been the go to place for fashion inspiration, the way eastern Asia and Tribal Africa have been. The colourful prints, the lively birds and the happy, sexy vibe that represents the continent influenced the Spring/Summer 13 Ralph Lauren collection and Charlotte Olympia´s trendy tote bag, but still is not the most popular location to find inspiration, or new talent. Sao Paulo Fashion Week, Buenos Aires Fashion Week, Colombiamoda and Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Mexico, are the most important fashion weeks in the continent, and they are becoming incredibly popular, everybody is looking to get in the contagious “Fiesta” mood and discover the next Alexandre Hercovitch, Carolina Herrera and Oscar de La Renta; so here is a list of the paradise birds that are showing off big time in the new continent.
After finishing Fashion design in the Altos de Chavon School he won a scholarship to study at Parsons School of design in New York. Lander gained experience working with Proenza Schouler, Ralph Lauren and Donna Karan, but in 2008 he decided to start his own eponymous brand. His style is very structured, with strong lines and defined silhouettes; he creates garments that resemble architectural jewels. He imprints a contained dramatism to his pieces; these are full of delicate and intricate details, making them very much alive. Celebrity fans include Rihanna, Nicky Minaj and Angelina Jolie.
should know, but probably donÂ´t 2 Esteban Cortazar- Colombia
From a very young age all he wanted to do was Fashion, when his family moved to Miami at the age of 13, he met the American designer Todd Oldham and he became his mentor introducing Cortazar to the big fishes of the industry, a couple of years later Suzy Menkes, and Alison Loehnis were amongst his high profile fans. His style is like the natural evolution of minimalism, a modern approach of the classic aesthetic, but incorporating unexpected details and fresh silhouettes, also his pieces have that touch of sexy without being vulgar, that Latin designers do so well. He works in his eponymous brand dressing big names like Nicole Richie and Solange Knowles.
3 Pablo Ramirez- Argentina
From the beginning of his career in the mid-nineties, he was praised by fashion conoceurs;. A little bit before her death, Isabella Blow gave Ramirez a standing ovation after one of his shows, she was fascinated by the elegant silhouettes and the pristine use of black and white; his signature colours. Collection after collection he seems to be looking for the everlasting elegance, creating sophisticated looks that try very hard not to be boring. Flawlessly classical, and absolutely beautiful are the best terms to describe his pieces. In March 2013 the brand Muaa, specialized in ready to wear, affordable clothing for young women, launched a capsule collection with Pablo Ramirez, the collection sold out completely within the first weeks.
#9 latin american designers you 4 Isabel Henao- Colombia
She completed her MA in special textiles in the Marangoni Institute of Milan graduating with the highest honours, after that she returned to her home country where she was an immediate success. Her collections are full of theatrical but fresh silhouettes; the kind that magically makes any type of body look good, and different artistic patterns, and being Colombia the American capital of textile, she has a lot of freedom to create her own unique fabrics. Her designs represent the continent only so well, the sheer colorful materials are made for a warm weather and a confident woman. Her most recent project is a clothing line for girls.
5 Sandra Weil- Peru
Born and raised in Peru, by a Brazilian grandmother that was really involved in the Rio fashion scene, and based in Mexico City this designer is seriously Pan-Latin, the pastiche of different Latin cultures has become an important source of inspiration; from fabrics and materials to silhouettes and confection. Her collections are full of colour, using a very vivid palette like intense reds and oranges, as well as sweet aquamarine and turquoise tones, mixing the different tones in colour blocking pieces. All her creations have a very ladylike silhouette with signature corseted pieces, cinched waist dresses, and fluffy maxi skirts. In 2008 she founded her own brand with a little Couture line, that later evolved in other two lines; Ready to Wear and Bridal. Even though she is still not showing in the official Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Mexico, she is a favourite of Kelly Talamas, Latin VogueÂ´s Editor-in-Chief.
should know, but probably don´t 6 Oriett Republic
After finishing her studies in her home country, she went to New York to work with the absolute Dominican Fashion god: Oscar de La Renta, later she studied styling to enhance her fashion senses in Florence. Her garments are like a sexy exoskeleton, with strong structured lines, see trough and cut-out details and a very tight fit, the wearer gets to put a new fashionable skin that makes her look crazy hot. Her Spring/ Summer 11 collection got the attention of Kim Kardashian´s stylist opening for Domenech the gates of heaven, or well at least of Hollywood. She added an accessory line to her portfolio and is currently working on a shoe line as well.
7 Kris Goyri- Mexico
After graduating from Fashion design he started working for women´s apparel for a short time until he was selected for the “Elle Mexico Diseña” competition, a sort of Mexican Project Runway, where his cutting edge pieces seduced the judges from the very beginning. With only 22 years he won the prominent competition, catapulting his career to the fame. The use of only natural organic fabrics and the fresh/beach-chic aesthetic has won him many international “green” fans like Miranda Kerr and Nicky Hilton.
#9 latin american designers you 8 Rafael Cenammo- Venezuela
9 Pedro Lourenco- Brazil
He was never really famous in his home country of Venezuela, where he had his first interaction with fashion helping his brother at his Model agency, there he met the right people and he began his career dressing beauty queens and models, showcasing his creation to a capsule audience. His designs are very theatrical, full of layers, heavy fabrics like tulle and organza and shiny details. Every piece he creates is meant to become an absolute show stopper. The mix of contemporary design with luxurious, fabrics and bold combinations, typical of the designer is attracting fans like Anne Hathaway, Giuliana Rancic, and Katy Perry.
If being 22 and having already 7 seasons showing in Paris, and ten years of professional experience doesnÂ´t obscenely scream success, nothing else will. Lourenco is the son of two big Brazilian designers, so he knew before starting his own line all the requirements for the job, which was probably one of the main reasons he could achieve success from a very young age. His designs are all about functionality and practicality, using fabrics that are very weather resistant, and incorporating pockets and hoods while still integrating feminine silhouettes, and pretty little details. He declares himself a tech geek, an obsession that has made him want to try with different new confection techniques. He is really one of those rare fashion forward designers that is experimenting and creating new things.
should know, but probably donÂ´t
#Gay is the new black. “The legislation being pushed by the Kremlin and the Russian Orthodox Church would make it illegal nationwide to provide minors with information that is defined as “propaganda of sodomy, lesbianism, bisexuality and transgenderism.” It includes a ban on holding public events that promote gay rights” Associated Press, 2013 In 1963 Martin Luther King had a dream that he could fight racism and soon enough many joined his crusade, and governments were forced to proclaim new equalitarian laws. A little way down the same road around the decade of 1980, women cladded in Thierry Mugler jackets were escalating positions in big corporations, embracing a new found corporate power, women were proving to be as good in business as men for the first time. In the fight for equality, every generation has a new challenge to face, and for our generation it is the battle against homophobia. Long gone are those typical gay stereotypes, that were so popular in the 80s
to demonize gays, like the H.I.V feathered queer and the tomboy lesbian. The world has realized that average looking people are coming out of the closet as well. Their fight became a social phenomenon when people from every social stratus, race, religion and sexual orientation decided to join the cause. Celebrities have made a great contribution in making this cause fashionable and fully on trend; all times sex symbols Brad Pitt, George Clooney and Sean Penn have spoken for the cause, the first famously stating that he and fiancee Angelina Jolie would not get married until everyone else in the country who wants to be married is legally able. Even athletes playing big macho sports, like footballer David Beckham and Hockey Player Sean Avery have been big supporters of the Gay rights. Not only by participating in awareness campaigns and promoting gay rights stars have made their contribution, but also by performing in movies and TV Shows that depict the homosexuality issue; from
Cloud Atlas to Behind the Candelabra, from Downton Abbey to The New Normal, gay characters are no longer suffered best friends but strong leading character: in two father families, tortured romantic relationships and as war heroes these strong figures are telling large audiences that gay is really the new normal. The problem is that not everybody believes that this is the correct message broadcasters should be airing. Many organized groups have protested against these famous shows believing that they are twisting the “correct” moral values of the society. The One Million Moms group claims that thanks to their pressure NBC had to cancel “The New Normal” after just one season, ‘The New Normal’ is attempting to desensitize America and our children. It is the opposite of how families are designed and created. You cannot recreate the biological wheel”, reads the angry letter these women sent to the channel.
Cases of bullying against the LGBTQ community are less frequent than a decade ago, but don´t be fooled, discrimination against those who like same sex love partners still exists; from harmless but hurtful offensive names to apps to cure homosexuality, to violent hate crimes there are many who still in the 21st century, believe that homosexuality is a disease that should be eradicated. The good thing is that the newer generations are more open to accept homosexuality as something totally normal. For people in their forties the issue is still a taboo, for people in their twenties its ok to be gay but is still considered something dysfunctional and different, but people in their teens think it’s completely normal, after all these kids grew up with gay references everywhere; gay parents in their football practice, politicians in their councils, singers in their favourite band, teachers in their school, gay couples holding hands in the streets.
#Gay is the new black.
How Teenage Boys are Redefining Masculinity and Heterosexuality, for this age group, pro-gay attitudes are held in high esteem
Even during adolescence, the cruelest stage of life for someone who is somehow different, things are changing. In New York City the department of health set up the Teens P.A.C.T. (Positive Actions and Choices for Teens) program, where they create public service videos to educate other teenagers in sexual health issues, bullying and discrimination, including one very popular video that depicts a homophobic student who enters a parallel universe where all the other students are part of the LGBTQ community, and he is for the first time the minority. Also in Toronto there is a group named TEACH Teens Educating and Confronting Homophobia, delivering ant homophobia peer education activities in high schools. The idea behind these groups is to influence and help create a social change amongst younger generations. Mark McCormack, a sociologist at Brunel University spent six months studying the attitudes of 16- to 18-year-olds in three different schools in the same town. In his book, The Declining Significance of Homophobia: How Teenage Boys are Redefining Masculinity and Heterosexuality, he says that, for this age group, pro-gay attitudes are held in high esteem and
homophobia is as unacceptable as racism. He also suggests that the phrase â€œso gayâ€?, used to rubbish things, is unrecognisable to teens as homophobic. It is also safe to say that the Internet has helped in making this issue much more accepted in society, there are many online help groups that help people deal with their feelings, also thanks to Twitter and Facebook, many influential people can use these channels to express their opinions and sympathy concerning this issue, this tool has helped many feel more comfortable and secure about their sexuality. Despite this, homosexuality is still forbidden in 76 countries, most of them are in Africa and Asia and the list includes Egypt, Malaysia, Nigeria, Iran, Jamaica and Trinidad, and is punishable by death in 7 of them; Sudan, Mauritania, Nigeria, Somalia, Uganda, United Arab Emirates, Yemen, and Iran .Still in most places of the world gay people are even nowadays humiliated, attacked, abused and treated like second class citizens. The battle is barely beginning for more than half of the world, but people are changing and so are the horrible laws that are against this type of love.
#our house in the middle of the street
So yeah minimum wages canÂ´t afford renting the house of your dreams, the modern building in Chelsea Harbor with the plexiglass balcony and the mezzanine bedroom, instead you are stuck in a house from 1876, decorated with the worst taste possible, in the 60s, full of cheap old furniture that itÂ´s falling to pieces, sounds more like it? Well the best way to make your place an almost beautiful place without is spending too much is with little quirky details. From cute salt sprinklers that imitates a magic wand, to lego shaped cutlery; these little pieces will not only brighten up your flat, but also add a little bit of cool attitude at shit salary prices. (All pieces are Fred and friends and can be found at Amazon).
#winteriscoming FIGHT BACK WITH SOME COLOUR 28
Jacket: Slevina Kalendzhieva Dress: Meagan Wellman
Jacket: Tracey M. Sampson Dress: 2AM Headband: Made in
Dress: Melanie PaceLupi Headband: Primark 31
Jumpsuit: Meagan Wellman Necklace: Aprilis Headband: Primark 32
Model: @NeringaEndriuskaite Photographer: @JuanCoelloH Styling: @AndreaHolmqvist Hair and Make-Up: @GabriellaArdeleanu Production Assistant: @AdiiDande
#Next season´s trend: A guide from the past
“The future of fashion? It doesn´t have. What’s fashionable is to deny fashion. We are everyday more naked” Thierry Mugler. The quest for finding next season´s trend is one that all magazines are constantly trying to pursue; stylists, bloggers, reputed journalists, Alexa Chung´s wannabes, all try to guess what is it going to be? Flares, metallic, dungarees, knitted, wool, neon. So many trends to choose but it seems that everything is already done. It appears that the quest has evolved from what trends are going to be on next season to what decade is going to be on trend, again, for next season. Not only Vintage stores have become a major shopping destination but also vintage inspired clothing are produced, and sold massively in this decade more than never before. There are three types of Vintage fans; the first one combines all types of old looking clothes and ends up looking like a Florence Welch´s ghost, the second one is fixated with a determinate era, i.e. Pin-Up girls and they try to recreate with hats, dresses and cute hair-dos that golden period they love so much. The third one is just following a certain trend that is fashionable at the moment. Like everything else in Fashion, there is a sociological explanation to the vintage
phenomena, a Few years back the cool thing was the future, but it seems like now future is so last season and retro is dominating the runways, and street styles of the world. In the past people dreamed about a better future, today people longs for a past that looks more tenting, in fact nostalgia is the main reason to explain why the retro culture is so fashionable these days. Nevertheless, the trends come back different, not only to adapt to the present but also because they are the product of a critical analysis and reflection about how then trend used to be and what it represented. The beginning of this new millennium has been signed by a nostalgic feeling, a longing for all the things we used to have: economic stability, free education, affordable houses and the right to be chubby and sexy at the same time; things have become so hard to get that it seems much more easier to stay stuck in the past daydreaming about better days. That feeling clearly reflects in fashion and that’s basically why everybody is so obsessed with retro looking fashion. On the next pages we offer you a guide to help you do the vintage trend right, there are too many horrible decades match ups in the streets and this can’t continue if we plan to carry on with this trend for the next years
#50s Defined by post war excessiveness and an urgent need for glamour and beautiful things. A line skirts, cinched waists, curvy figures, trapezoid shaped dresses, hats and a lot of classical elegance were the main elements of the decade. Even though the 50s can be considered the Haute couture golden period, it also was the time of the ready to wear boom, of the mass production of the trends of the season. The 50s was a decade for femininity, sweet pastel colours, floral prints and an enhancement of womenÂ´s body; it was the time for being beautiful or die trying.
Things that should never come back: The setxist ads.
Things that should never come back: The younger generation determined all the cultural values of the decade; it was a time of many changes in Fashion, from the introduction of synthetic fabrics like nylon, lycra and polyester in designers clothes, to the mini skirt revolution as a consequence of the new generationâ€™s need to show as much of the body as possible. The challenge was to create the look of tomorrow, back then everybody was obsessed with the future, and it served as an inspiration for many young designers that incorporated conical shapes, transparent details, shiny fabrics and unnatural colours. The Beatles music, the American dreams and the Nouvelle Vague films are the core of the decade.
The hair sprayed, fluffy up-dos.
Things that should never come back: The lame disco suits.
The revolution of denim that happened during the 70s changed fashion history forever; this piece became a fashion staple for every age and every social class. Jeans became popular because they were comfortable, easy to wear and versatile, also they were completely unisex, and had a labour force connotation. It was a time for statements, a peaceful one lead by the hippie movement dressed in organic plain fabrics and adorned with folk accessories. The second one was less mainstream but more shocking, the punk movement and its DIY aesthetic caused great sensation, with offensive signs and a fuck the system attitude.
It was the time for a new womenÂ´s uprising; important positions in the corporate world were being occupied by a new generation of confident, smart women and they needed a uniform; big shoulder pads and androgynous suits were the power dressing this group needed. At the same time there was a body conscious trend developing with stretch fabric body suits and leggings. All in all fashion was highly theatrical and colourful. There were many trends going on the same time, the baroque revival with golden adornments in Italy, the deconstructed minimalist trend that the Japanese brought to Occident, the dramatic, androgynous, but almost decadent fashion uprising in LondonÂ´s club scene and the Disco fever with colourful suits, bell pants and flashy outfits that was on full swing in the US.
Things that should never come back: The soft, gigantic shoulder pads
Things that should never come back: The tight and dye t-shirts. There was a big concern for the environment, for the first time the ecological issue was the centre of attention, and so it became fashionable to use recycled materials, used clothes and organic fabrics as a way of protest against the mass production system. Unkempt, natural looks were everywhere replacing the flashy and sumptuous outfits of the previous decades. Deconstructionists and the post-Hiroshima look challenged all the aesthetic values of high fashion, presenting collections full of plain, ugly clothes; the ripped, old and incorrect aspect of the garments had a very seductive effect.
#Are you going trough the
Yes, such thing does exist, and it usually happens sometime during the early twenties, that beautiful time in life when the first battles against real life occur. Find a place to live, choose a career path, learn to cook, have a shitty job, find the one, and accept once and for all that you are the captain of your life, sounds familiar? Welcome on board. As with every other crisis in life, it all start with a major panic attack, when you realize that your life is not going as planned, that what you dreamed is just not happening, so many things that you regret, so many things that you didn´t do, so many things that you don´t know, and you probably are never going to know. You don´t have a serious relationship, you don´t have a home, you still work part time in something you don´t really like, it´s not like you planned to have everything figured out, but at least something. Eventually you have a million questions without answer, and a couple of self-help blogs
that you secretly read to help you find a guiding hand in all this mess. There are certain common symptoms people experience during the quarter life crisis, first there is the feeling of loneliness; everybody imagines leaving their parents’ home like a marvelous moment of freedom, it finally came the moment where you can do whatever you want, but after a year or so, a big realization comes, it´s actually hard to cope without parental guidance, and it can get lonely, living alone in a strange city. Frequently people could experience feeling lost, scared and confused, the growing uncertainties, and the doubts about the steps to take towards adulthood, can create a lot anxiety, it seems like every decision is major, and that it could affect the rest of your life. These feelings can also appear if you feel like you are stuck doing some menial job, making life seem a bit meaningless, without a clear route to follow.
quarterlife crisis... #SOS even consider going to Africa and help children in poverty situations; all the things you think you are getting to old to do, that you might lose your last shot if you don´t do them know, after all everything seems better than what you have at the moment.
Usually the factor that generates more anxiety during this crisis is the employment situation. Due to the economic crisis affecting the world, most recent graduates (either from High school or University) are working on what they could find, and not what they wanted, and in most cases they are underpaid and probably underemployed. This often makes people feel as if they were stuck in life; some even get to feel as a failure. It´s very common for people in this situation, to find themselves thinking about doing something crazy, like quit their job and go to visit the 7 wonders of the ancient world, or go bag packing around Asia, or the most philanthropists
The desperate look for “Your significant other” is another symptom of the quarter life crisis; until the late years of adolescence everybody is looking for the one they’re going to get laid with, but when the twenties start to move forward it feels like all the ONE night stands, and booty calls have to stop, and seriously start looking for the other type of the One, the one you are going to spend your life with, or you might
#Are you going trough the One of the lamest things people do during this period, is to start wishing they were older, because older people have life figured out, they have nice houses, beautiful families, and brand new cars (Or so it seems), for some crazy reason the peaceful life of the elderly seems very appealing. Some go completely the other way and get quite reminiscent of the time when they were in high school, for some fucked up reason, the teenage years doesnÂ´t seem so bad, probably because what you decide to remember is the nice simpler times, hanging without purpose with your intense friends, shopping prom dresses, and the parties with smuggled booze; not the bullying, the awkwardness and the inconvenient blackheads. Finally the quarter life diseased often compare with others, as if life was some sort of race, they think about their long distant friend who is already a CEO in some fancy company, a cousin who is getting married, a little sister who works as an astrophysicist for a big University; everybody is getting places except you. And when you think about this further, even your parents had a lot more when they were your age. Depressing? Confusing? Identified with the situation? Take some advice from the experts. Alexandra Robbins,
author of Conquering Your Quarterlife Crisis: Advice from Twenty somethings Who Have Been There and Survived, teach us that at some point in your life, you are going to have to confront yourself. You might as well do it now. The early twenties are the best ones to find youÂ´re real identity, who you really are. Also she strongly advices to loose expectations about what adulthood should be, It doesnâ€™t matter if your parents married had everything right at your age, or if your friends found a great job already, worrying about it can only get you down, and take away all your optimism and hopes.
quarterlife crisis... #SOS
Meg Jay author of The Defining Decade has some more advice, she thinks that if you’ve been unhappy for a year or longer, it’s time to bite the bullet and take action despite the chaos it may cause. It’s not healthy to stay in a relationship without future, or a dead end job, just because you don´t want to stay behind, or find a new path to follow. The best thing to do is to cautiously, and responsibly find something or someone new that you really feel passionate about. And last trust your friends, even those who you think have the ideal job, or a wonderful partner, can be going through the same crisis; don´t underestimate the value of calling someone, and saying “I had a shit ass day” and having someone to tell you “Me too, do you want to talk about it?”
#1993-2013 twenty years of Grunge,
Sure it’s cool that the 90´s are coming back, nothing like a grungy plaited shirt to remember when Kurt Cobain was the sexiest man on the planet and Gwen Stefani was cool, from Henry Holland’s acid take on the decade, to the dark glam “I´m so into grunge collection” Heidi Slimane created for YSL, it seems that after a few seasons of shy attempts the 90s are officially full on trend. All the big high street stores are packed with jean dungarees, plaited shirts and flowery dresses and girls are going crazy for them, maybe because it reminds them of a sweeter time when Clarissa explained it all, when life was good and crisis was not even in their vocabulary. Amazing how the time flies, it seems like the 90s were just a moment ago, but the children of the 90s are old enough to drink, old enough to vote and old enough to have seen the first Harry Potter movie at a movie theatre meaning that they are also old enough to be a vintage generation.
people to believe anybody can be a star, or at least live like a star like the kids of the Bling Ring so successfully did, by stealing half of Paris Hilton’s possessions. The line between reality and fantasy is more unclear than never before, and so the definition of authenticity is almost lost. Clothes used to be a symbol of status and wealth, but fashion like politics, has turned democratic. From the early sixties when young people started imitating
But the beautiful memories of a long gone childhood is probably not the only motive that makes the younger consumers so attracted to 90s inspired fashion, it’s important to also analyse what has happened in the world in the last 20 years. The whole paraphernalia of the reality stars, starting after MTVs successful show “The real life” has lead
dirty converses and plaid shirts... <3
their music idols and breaking all the dressing code rules, there was a search for individuality and authenticity, a thing that makes each person different from the other, clothing has become an expression of the individual, not the socio-economic group, not the parents, not the past but the present of that individual, they are an unspoken message that translate who we are, and the way we want others to see us.
â€œRather be dead than coolâ€? (Kurt Cobain)
Punk marked a decisive no return point in the history of individualism. Punk garments were originally handmade; each piece was personalized with protest mottos, offensive signs, ripped apart and put together with safety pins and even tape, some jackets had the name of the wearer written on it. Being different had a strong sense of purpose; it was a countercultural movement, protesting against the excesses and pretentiousness of the mainstream culture. Nothing compares to the shock Punk caused in popular culture, shaking its very own foundations paving the way for a more individualistic, free thinking young generation. But Punk died very young, it lasted only 30 months, but it was enough time to really define the connection between music and fashion and the concept of tribes.
#1993-2013 twenty years of Grunge, Nevertheless the world witnessed one more movement that challenged all rules and was created by individuals who were not happy with the institutions and the way things worked. Grunge emerged in the early 90s in Seattle, and music talked about disconformity, anger and hopelessness for the future, they were annoyed by the falseness of the people, and the political and
economic situation of the world, and so they answered with cynicism and unkempt looks to annoy the world back. The 80s, and more specially the 80s music scene was full of drama, theatricality and glitz, in opposition the 90s were very minimalistic. Many different things were happening at the same time; the introduction of the post Hiroshima chic to the world of fashion, and the Antwerp six revolutionary deconstructed clothes, both in the late 80s laid the groundwork for a more simplistic and insightful decade. As part of their irreverent proposal, the grunge kids dressed in a way that screamed we donÂ´t care, wearing plain t-shirts, oversized plaid shirts, old ripped jeans and dirty converses, creating an outfit that looked like a donation from the Salvation Army. The message was that you can be an intellectual and philosophical person but still look like a vagabond, because you know, â€œrather be dead than coolâ€? (Kurt Cobain) Despite all the anger, and the fuck the world attitude, Grunge was actually a very idealistic movement; they believed that a better world was possible, a life without hypocrisy and hate, which is why the members of this movement were usually very open
dirty converses and plaid shirts... <3 So besides everything else this generation also has to face the fact that no one is original anymore, everything´s been done before, and there hasn´t been a group of contagious rebels changing the paradigms of culture so far this millennium, which is probably why a 90s fashion revival seems so appealing, who wouldn´t want to go back to a Pre-Kardashian era when famous people were the voice of a generation eager to change the world?
minded people and sensitive people, like Kurt Cobain who was a defender of Gay and women’s rights. Since Grunge no other group has defied the rules quite like that, and even though it seems like people has more freedom than ever to be unique, authenticity is lost. Nothing is new everything is wasted. Photographer Ari Versluis, created a series of photographs of individuals who believed they were being original and unique by dressing a certain way, and then comparing them in the same frame with other 11 people who acted and dressed very similar, proving that these people were not original at all, they belonged to a tribe or a sub culture, with its own specific values and aesthetics.
#All you need is love, a Finding the one has become an incredibly hard, and exhausting quest, but what if the problem is that we are looking for just one person to complete us, to be everything we need, to have the same taste and the same values, even someone with the same kinky sex fantasy, doesn´t that sound too much for just one person to have it all? Life is not a fairy tale, at least not for everybody, maybe the key to happiness is to find more than just one partner, and truly have everything. Polyamory is a form of love; poly from the Greek, many, and amor from the Latin, love, like the name describes, that considers the possibility of having multiple loving relationships at the same time. Polyamorist know and defend that a person can have loving and caring relationships with many people at the same time. “Polyamory is the possibility to have several loving relationships simultaneously with mutual consent” explains Lily, a 24 years old polyamorist from Luxembourg. Do they know about each other? Tends to be the first of many questions (right after what the f***) this curios type of love arises; and yes, they do, which is basically why it works so well, there are no hiding games and cheating tensions, these liaisons are actually full of healthy honesty. It’s not cheating, and it’s not an Open Relationship. It’s not two people in a relationship who are allowed to see
others casually, its multiple relationships. In other cultures polygamy, the type of marriage that includes more than two partners, is a very normal practice in countries like South Africa and Malaysia, one man has many wives, in that way he makes sure his family name and progeny are secure, but this marriages are arranged and they are based on power and property rights, in this case polygamy is a social convention, a practical measure to preserve a certain idea of society. Polyamory is nothing like that, first because it’s based, like common relationships, in meeting someone you like, with similar taste and with whom you develop an affectionate bond,
lot of love... #instalove they have the usual: laughs, tears, fights and awkward silences. “You get double the amount of late-night crying on the phone, relationship responsibility and baggage” comments Simon, a 30 years old polyamorist and businessmen from London about this type of loving. Yeah, well this whole thing sounds more complicated, making more than one person happy can be too much of a challenge, and trying to make more than one person understand you, can be even more difficult. For some that can´t even maintain one normal relationship, this new form of love seems impossible and pointless, but modern relationships have become more complex, because we have become more complex. In a world when a relationship can be based purely on sexting, everything is possible; we are all looking for something different that fits our needs.
themselves from swingers, because poly is more than casual sex with different partners, second by establishing certain common rules to make their situation stable. Jim Fleckenstein, director of the Institute for 21st-Century Relationships explains that feminism and internet are two of the main reason the polyamory community keeps growing particularly in this millenium, “Increased financial independence means that women can build relationships the way they want to, Polyamory spread slowly in the 80s, perhaps because of Aids, then blossomed with the help of the internet”. Thanks to the internet in most recent times, there are more help
From its beginnings in the sixties, in free love communes where the first open marriages started, the polyamory community has evolved and grown a great deal. First by differentiating
# All you need is love, a are if anything more tolerant than in America which is perhaps why British polys are less in need of support groups. We have a tradition of people minding their own business here.” Which in absolutely no way means that the poly community in the country is a small one.
groups and forums to educate people about non-monogamous relationships, as an alternative to the traditional way. Only ten years ago there was only one online community for Polyamorists in the UK, now there are around a dozen of them, being the most popular UKPoly, Polytical.Org and bi.org. Also there are more and more get-togethers, support groups, and workshops happening around the nation, the community keeps growing at a very fast pace. Arguably Polyamory is not as noted in Britain as it is in the US where there are magazines, movies and some theatre plays about it, but as the founder of UK’s oldest online site for polys, But Grant, puts it “British people
Of course there are some rules to make this functional, Thomas, a 27 year old from London who has been a polyamorists for a while, explains that like everything else when love is concerned, there aren´t any standard models to follow, every couple and every family creates a set of norms that suits them, that works for them (and their partners) and are aligned with the emotional commitment they have with the others. But honesty, consent, calendar time and most importantly communication are essential to make the best of the relationship. The author of the book “Opening up”, Tristan Taormino, confirms that most Polly couples have some common principles. Honesty. Self-awareness. Trust. Communication. Boundaries. Commitment. Polyamorism can also be the product of personality problems and family traumas, Dr. Rose Ipolliti, a psychotherapist and specialist in couples, comments that polyamorism is for people with a deep emotional imbalance, probably product of a dysfunctional family or a difficult
lot of love... #instalove childhood. Human beings have grown apart from their own authenticity, their own personal set of rules and needs, forgetting about what they really want and instead they constantly think about what they should want, leaving them with constant emotional crisis, anxiety and depression. But human beings have found creative solutions to fill the void, these types of practices in particular are great to create a sense of belonging, and security. The problem with them is that is very probable that this people end up being obsessive and co-dependent of their partners. She adds that these relationships are for people that need high doses of adrenaline, people that needs to feel very much alive. One of the most curious things about Polyamory, is that unlike other minorities, these group is not so prone to start a social crusade to defend their rights. They like to hang out with likeminded people in group meetings and parties, but they are not putting themselves to out in the public view, as a community they rather avoid unnecessary drama and cruel discrimination. In their book â€œThe ethical slutâ€?, or the bible of Polyamory, as some know it, Dossie Easton and Catherine Liszt write â€œWe believe that it is fundamentally a radical political act to deprivatize sex. So much oppression in our culture is based on shame about sex: the oppression of women, of cultural minorities, oppression in the name
# All you need is love, a of the (presumably asexual) family, oppression of sexual minorities. We are all oppressed. We have all been taught, one way or another, that our desires, our bodies, our sexualities, are shameful. What better way to defeat oppression than to get together in communities and celebrate the wonders of sex?” Which can only leave people wondering, so is this Polyamory thing about sex? “It is clear to me that intense and regular sexual contact will cause chemical Infatuation and often this can lead to stronger bond ones the hormones have calmed down. Every relationship is different though. I am
“You get double the amount of late-night crying on the phone, relationship responsibility and baggage”
kinky and prefer being involved with likeminded people, for example: The crowd of After Pandora, a social group that has pub meet ups and parties for kinky and poly people. My life is pretty filled with threesomes, BDSM (Bondage domination sadomasoquism) and sex parties, but also tantra, meditation and conscious
lot of love... #instalove sexuality. The polyamory community is very open and aware about sex and as long as it is SSC: safe sane and consensual, anything goes.â€? Explains Lily on the topic of Polyamory and sexuality.
The traditional concept of family consisting of a mum, a dad, and the kids has changed in the past 50 years like never before, from single parents, to same sex parents to MTV teenage parents, the idea of family has been redefined, and it has been confirmed and reconfirmed that in order to raise a child, all it takes is stability, love and a caring parent; children need to feel they are in a safe environment, whether it is with two dads, two mums and one dad or with just one mum. Elizabeth Sheff, an educational consultant and expert witness serving sexual and gender minorities, has studied poly families with kids for the past sixteen years, and her research shows that children can do well in poly families as long as theyâ€™re in a stable home with loving parents, they have more people to care for them, and to support them in life. Polyamorous people tend to be very caring and full of love to give which actually are really good characteristics in parenthood. Nothing can be said about the future of relationships, dating and marriage, but the truth is that the traditional models are not for everyone, and people are gravitating towards new, creative ways of being happy and feeling good about themselves, the way we love is constantly changing and evolving, the good thing is that it seems that there is an option for everyone.
#Made in without any demands, you don’t have to have studied somewhere fancy or be of a certain age, to be involved you just have to have a creative and passionate mind. That’s what makes it different. Manifesto: Do you see yourself like a modern patron for these designers?
The why and how “Made in Chelsea” became Britain’s favourite guilty pleasure eludes most of us, nevertheless the coming and goings of this rich kids has become a complete success; with a Bafta award and 5 seasons to their credit, but let’s be honest who doesn’t want to be one of them? The silver lining to being rich and influential is you can help others, and that’s exactly what Caggie Dunlop is doing for young designers out there. The stylish socialite launched a project she called ISWAI that serves as a platform to promote new talent.
Caggie Dunlop: I wouldn’t go that far, I’d like to think I might inspire some people in some way but ultimately in this we are all equal. I feel inspired by my designers a lot of the time. I’ts about creating your own path, not following others. Manifesto: You have a very unique personal style, do you think ISWAI is only for people with a similar style or is for everybody who enjoys being unique and different?
Manifesto: With so many young designers’ sites, platforms and events going on at the moment what makes ISWAI different? Caggie Dunlop: ISWAI functions in a free and unique framework , it has no fixed system, which is what makes it unique. It is about ideas and creativity
Caggie Dunlop: At the beginning it was more about my style, that’s the way I got it to take off, but the plan was always for it to web out into its own creation, and become a representation of everyone who is involved. Obviously I keep a close eye on what’s going to be on the site, but I try and make sure it’s not just what I like. Manifesto: In the current economic situation do you think having affordable prices is positive for the brand? Caggie Dunlop: Yes, I want things to be affordable for everyone. We try and keep our prices as reasonable as possible.
Manifesto: Where do you see ISWAI in 5 years? I’d like it to develop more overseas, and to have designers across the globe working on it. I hope it continues to flourish in the way it has been. Manifesto: How is the creative process inside ISWAI? It’s very fun and exciting, its great seeing concepts coming to life. And it’s a new experience for me, so every day is different. Manifesto: Tell me 3 things you love about fashion Caggie Dunlop: Style, using it as a way to express yourself, and being able to be someone totally different if you feel like it.
#No room for The 80s are known for the neon colored clothes, theatrical make up, and exaggerated patterns, but no one can say the 80s are famous for good taste, and glamorous clothes. Maximalism has become a synonym of absolute tackiness, but there was a time, not that long ago, when Italian baroque details, and lively bird t-shirts were considered trendy and beautiful. It all started when the deconstructionists introduced a new concept of fashion, paying more attention to the science of creating garments, than to the result itself. Clothes were stripped from colour, patterns and ornaments, and instead they had the aspect of being unfinished or reassembled. It was all about being against traditional fashion; a statement to change ways, and shift all paradigms that resulted in the creation of a new more simplistic order in fashion; since then there is a new found appreciation for minimalism, in fashion and design. And then the Scandinavian came, late in the 90s several brands from Sweden, Finland, Denmark and Norway, brought functionality and simplicity to design; clear structured lines, a comprehensive use of the material, an utilization of every possible space, and the minimum amount of adornment, were the characteristics of this new minimalist aesthetic. Needless to say the world went crazy for Scandinavian fashion.
The most famous representatives designers of these gang are: Acne Studios that started in 1997, when Jonny Johansson made 100 pairs of jeans in raw denim, and handed them to his friends and family in Stockholm, H&M spinoff brand founded in 2007, COS (it stands for Collection of Style), perfectly clean and minimalist, but also woefully subtle, Malene Birger the â€œQueen of Copenhagen fashionâ€?, as she is known, started her own brand in 2003 and it quickly became a success
brogues... :0 among the most refined celebrities, and Finlandâ€™s most famous fashion brand, Marimekko, that is mostly known for its iconic bright prints in strong primary colours. The Scandinavian trademark of simple functionality has been a symbol of absolute good taste for way (way) too long; people think that because something is plain white, with a small, almost invisible detail and a tiny splash of a primary colour, it must be tres chic! But actually now that is been done to death, it has become tres boring.
The time has come to embrace the colour, the really exciting and vibrant kinds of course, the crazy patterns, the shocking prints, the glow in the dark details, the mixing and matching, the polka dots together with monochrome diamonds, itâ€™s time to make fearless fashion glamourous again. A new generation of British designers are redefining aesthetics, and making maximalism cool again; Henry Holland, Mary Katrantzou, and Peter Pilotto, teach us that is possible to be cool and never wear brogues again.
#Manic lister 10 reasons to go to the club to catwalk exhibition.â€? 1 If we are going emulate the fashion from the 80s/90s, we should try to rescue the authenticity that these masters created and not only the silhouettes that were introduced in these decades. 2 The Blitz short film DJ Jeffrey Hinton put together for the exhibition is amazing, it immediately takes the viewer to the coolest parties of the time. 3 Patterned and printed knitwear has been an absolute furor for the past couple of winters, the exhibition showcases some of the coolest knitted
pieces from the likes of BodyMap, offering some cool ideas on how to combine these pieces the old way. 4 Many handsome men parading around the exhibition. 5 Even thou Galliano has gained some powerful haters, there are some who still love the man to death, in this exhibition you can find pieces from the very first collections of the designer. 6 The soundtrack is the very best of the 80s and is absolutely amazing, you feel like dancing from the moment you walk in the venue. 7 Paul Smith has become a symbol of London sartorial style, that daring elegance characteristic of the inhabitants of the city is alive in all his garments, in this exhibition you can see where it all began. 8 Art is about finding the right inspiration; the colours, the fabrics and the flamboyant attires, are eye candy if you are looking for new ideas. 9 Pam Hoggâ€™s golden knickers with her initials and a funky crown printed on it. 10 If you are not a born and raised Londoner, the exhibition will remind you why is it that you love this city so much, it will make you realize (again) that everything begins in London.
... check! 5 Meals you enjoy more when you´re drunk 1 Big Mac 2 fried eggs 3 Peri-Peri chicken 4 Strawberries and cream 5 Krave cereal
4 Series you should see if you are going through the quarterlife crisis. 1 2 Broke girls 2 Girls 3 Don´t trust the B… in apartment 23 4 Friends
3 Cities that are historically interesting and the alcohol is cheap. 1 Barcelona: The magnificent “Sagrada Familia” and Park Güell, both from the renowned architect Antoni Gaudi, are
the most representative works from the surrealist era. The Gothic quarter is the centre of the old city, and it has buildings that date back to the ancient Rome as well as beautiful ones from the medieval times. Being Catalonia the capital of Spanish Cava, you can find all types of the exquisite drink for as cheap as 5£ the bottle, also sangria and wine are cheap as hell in the Spanish city. 2 Prague: Home to the most imposing castles and towers from the medieval period, and the one of a kind astronomic clock. The city is full of romantic medieval bridges, beautiful unique buildings, Gothic and Baroque towers and a ginormous fortress that still holds intact the castle and the cathedral. Cocktails cost around 4£, a cup of wine 2£ and absinth is sold for ridiculously low prices in every corner of the city. 3 Naples: With over 2800 years of history, there is basically no art period you can´t find in Naples. The city has a large list of old castles, including Castel Nuovo, Castel Dell’Ovo and Sant’Elmo Castle, all built between 1300 and 1650 approximately, also is the city with most catholic temples in the world in which you can find frescoes from the famous renaissance painters, and hidden catacombs. Wine is particularly good in this region of Italy, and is also very cheap, starting from 1£ the cup.
#Muggles or wizards... LOL Mr. Dursley couldn’t bear people who dressed in funny clothes - the get-ups you saw on young people! He supposed this was some stupid new fashion. He drummed his fingers on the steering wheel and his eyes fell on a huddle of these weirdoes standing quite close by. They were whispering excitedly together. Mr. Dursley was enraged to see that a couple of them weren’t young at all; why, that man had to be older than he was, and wearing an emerald green cloak! The nerve of him! But then it struck Mr. Dursley that this was probably some silly stunt - these people were obviously collecting for something ... yes, that would be it. “Harry Potter and the philosopher’s stone”
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