Page 94

WALK THREE 117

20 182

A Citadel B Statue of Liberty C Studio Building D Gellért Baths and the Hotel E PaulineGellérthegy and The Monastery F Grotto Chapel G Szabadság híd Old City

N

ért

A

B

U

ell

A

rak

ó als

sétány

183

day a long time ago. This was the hotel where Budapest schoolboys went to “car spot” among the latest-model cars arriving outside.

D

t. G

Citadella

Sz

sétán y

i da Bu

20

Citadella

Gellérthegy and The Old City

pa

A rest

rt

Gel lé rt he gy jték

Kele nh e

út

Szt. Gellért tér

D

Budafoki út

Bartók B. út

e

Kelen h

nerva

utca

.

C

rk p

Kemenes

t em

út

Mi

ye

gyi

út

i gy

The 14-metre-tall statue of the woman holding a palm leaf in her hands A by Citadel (1947, Zsigmond Kisfaludi Strobl) isEthe Pauline Statue ofMonastery Liberty, and commemorates liberation from Fascist rule. Liberty can be Chapel seen from all parts of B Statue of Liberty F Grotto the city; she has become the symbol of Budapest abroad and so the statue was unlike the Red Army soldier conspicuously clenched C  not G Swith   Sremoved, tudio Building zabadság híd (Liberty fist, in bronze who used to stand guard at theBridge) base. D Gellért Baths and Many Budapest the Hotelpeople remember that Autumn Festival in the early 1990s when Tamas St. Auby, the avantguard artist “dressed up” the statue in white for 3 days, thus converting her into a ghost. It was a powerful image, connected to the“the main area by an over underpass. The new section especially at night: ghost of Liberty Budapest”. was uncommonly well-constructed with the post-modern softInstead of the usual path leading to the foot of the hill, let me recommend an ness matching the heavy bulk of the art nouveau building. even more pleasant route, threading between the villas of the hill. Find “The Gellért like a huge white gem”, claims the illusVerejték utca, then Hotel follow looks Kelenhegyi út down to the Gellért Baths. trator of this book. “Unlike other buildings, which go black with time, whiter and whiter.” TheXI. hotel was built by Ármin Hegedűs, Ait grows Studio Building 20C Kelenhegyi út 12–14. An art-nouveau building made of traditional materials in ainbold, functional KoszArtúr Sebestyén and Izidor Stark 1918 as part way of a(Gyula conscious tolányi 1903). Painters and here even today. Its architect effort Kann, to make Budapest intosculptors a city oflive baths. If you cannot spare isthe better known as a painter. his many designs, were actually built. time to swim, at leastOf walk through the few separate bath house In 1999 it almost collapsed, allegedly because of some pipes built near the entrance (on the side of the building) for the sake of seeing the walls in less than thoughtful ways – tenants had to be moved out overnight. mosaic floor and the glass ceiling. Walk all the way back to look at the roofed-over partGellért of the swimming pool.XI. Try to slip in Hotel Gellért and Baths 20D Kelenhegyi út –4. Ifyou youare follow the routetoI have recommend, you firstpool see the open-air part of the supposed a swimming ticket. Hotel guests have a separate lift to come down to the baths. The hotel’s main entrance faces the Danube. The lobby was rebuilt at the beginning of the 1960s in the so-called “old modern” style. Now it is beginning to look elegant again in the same way as the 1965 Opel Rekord that fascinated me in front of this hotel one autumn

PARK_Budapest_belivek_v065.indd 182-183

Pauline Monastery and the Grotto Chapel (Pálos Kolostor, Sziklakápolna) 20E–F XI. Szent Gellért rakpart 1/a. ••• This is another pseudo-historic building (Károly Weichinger) that fits wonderfully well in its surroundings. No one would think that it was built in 1932. For 40 years it was the dormitory for students from the Ballet Institute. I am not sure that they felt at home there. The church in the grotto, which once had a chapel too, opens from the balcony nearby and was re-consecrated and put back into use in the early 1990s. The stone cross over the entrance (the symbol barbarically demolished with hammers in the late 1940s) was re-erected in 2001 a few months after the much criticized St. Stephen 17:40 statue and his horse walk 3 ang 2006/11/22 Page 118 was unveiled. You probably would not recognize the king’s features since they are those of the sculptor, Pál Kő. The new statue seems to overburden the pleasant surroundings in front of the cave. 118 WALK THREE

Walk THREE

Walk THREE

i gy

utc a

e

G

eg

Rez len he

F

Ke

da

utca

utca

Minerva

Pipacs

Cafe of Hotel Gellért

utca

utca

Ver e

rt pa rak

E

A Studio Building

KELENHEGYI Kelenhegyi út ÚT baths which has recently been enlarged. The new part is uncommonly well A Studio Building made; the post-modern softness matches the heavy bulk of the art-nouveau building (by Ármin Hegedûs, Artúr Sebestyén and Izidor Stark) which was completed in 1918. The open-air swimming pool stretches over to the other side of Kemenes utca and is connected to the main area by a subway. “The Gellért Hotel looks like a huge white gem, and unlike other buildings, which go black with time, it grows whiter and whiter”, claims a friend of 15:49:34 mine, the illustrator of this book. The hotel, together with the2011.04.20. baths, was

Profile for Andras Török

András Török's Budapest: A Critical Guide  

The Celebrated Insider's Guide, upgraded many times, probably the deepest and funnieast and truest portrait of any major European city. With...

András Török's Budapest: A Critical Guide  

The Celebrated Insider's Guide, upgraded many times, probably the deepest and funnieast and truest portrait of any major European city. With...

Profile for andraas
Advertisement