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B Gerbeaud C Vigadó Millennium Court D Hotel Marriott Exclusive Residences E Orthodox Church F Statue of Sándor Petôfi J Piarist School G Contra Aquincum H Péterfy Palace K Inner City Paris Church I Millennium Court Executive L Klotild Palaces Residences J Piarist School M PCity arisParish Arcade – K Inner Church udvar L KlotildPárisi Palaces M Paris Arcade – Párisi udvar

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PARK_Budapest_belivek_v065.indd 174-175

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Greek Orthodox Church (Ortodox templom) 17E V. Petőfi tér 2. ••• The large group of Greek merchants who lived in Budapest in the 18th century were enthusiastic patrons of architecture. They commissioned this baroque church from the architect József Jung and it was built between 1791 and 1794. Its southern spire was destroyed during World War Two. Nowadays, services are usually

V. Petôfi tér 2. The large group of Greek merchants formerly in Budapest

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The Marriott Hotel 17D V. Apáczai Csere János utca 4. ••• This hotel, designed by József Finta and László Kovácsy, opened in 1969. The hotel was designed in such a way that all of its 39 suites and 349 rooms overlook the Danube. About a hundred years after the design of the Vigadó scandalized critics, modern day critics were again dismayed by this nearby hotel. It is generally thought that the building is too high and its proportions don’t match with the city’s. It is also said that the building it turns its back on the capital, looks like a fortress and at least the back, windowless side is, quite simply, ugly. As the Budapest saying goes “if you stay at the Marriott, at least you can’t see it”. The hotel was built at the height of the modernist rage when anything new was beautiful. It took another ten years in Hungary before the country’s heritage began to be appreciated again by the ruling elites and the people in the street. A part of the original design that would have connected the hotel to the river was never built.

5 p.m. There has been a long-

F Statue of Sándor Petőfi Greek Church running Orthodox dispute between the (Ortodox templom) 17E

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bridges over the Danube were built, the square was where the pontoon bridge was moored. Once the Lánchíd was built, Vigadó tér became backwaters. When the building was completed in 1865, it was received with unanimous obtuseness. Some found it to be too unusual, others called it too Hungarian. Still others criticized its lack of uniformity and said that the main façade was “bare” and the 22 metre-tall main hall was “monstrous”. An architect from abroad said, and perhaps not quite in mockery, that the building was a “crystallized csardas”. Vigadó was a sort of second home for Ferenc Liszt. He played here as a pianist, and he conducted a series of premiers for some of his compositions. In 1875 he gave a concert with Richard Wagner (his son-in-law), for the benefit of the Festspielhaus in Beyreuth. In the 20th century it was a Budapest venue for Claude Debussy, Herbert von Karajan and Arthur Rubinstein. During the siege of Budapest in the winter of 1945 it was so severely damaged that its future was quite uncertain. It only reopened in 1980, with less than perfect acoustics – it could not regain its earlier status. Its second post-war renovation was still underway when this edition went to press.

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Gellérthegy and The Old City

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The Marriott Hotel 17D V. Apáczai Csere János utca 4. The hotel was opened in 1969 (designed by József Finta and László Kovácsy). All its 39 suites and 349 rooms overlook the Danube. About a hundred years after the scandal that broke out about the Vigadó, a new one started over this hotel. It is generally held that it is too high, its proportions are different from those Gellérthegy and The 175 of the city; what is more, it turns itsOld City back on the capital, looks like a fortress and at least the back, windowless side is, quite simply, ugly. As the comment goes, if you stay the Marriott,and at least you see it. shops It was built at the A can’t Elegant conducted in at Hungarian height of modernist rage, when “anything new was beautiful”. It took anothare always accompanied by B beginning Gerbeaud er ten years in Hungary before heritage was to be appreciated singing (consult the notices on again by the ruling élites and the people in the street. A part of the original C   the front gate for sched-the hotel design that would havethe connected toVigadó the river was never built. ule of services.) The building The lovers of the Dunakorzó would like to the noisy Tram 2 underD drive Hotel Marriott is openand to visitors spring ground have the from promenade widened. As this plan would be expenE Orthodox Church to autumn a.m. adopted. and sive, there is between no sign of 10 it being

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Greek and Russian church authorities concerning the hierarchic place of this church. Whom should it belong to? If this is settled, perhaps someone can replace the missing spire. Statue of Sándor Petőfi (Petőfi-szobor) 17F V. Petőfi tér ••• This statue (Miklós Izsó and Adolf Huszár, 1882) is a bit far from modern taste. It shows the poet at the age of 25, reciting his bestknown patriotic poem, National Song, which has the famous line “talpra, magyar!” (Rise up, Hungarians!). Petőfi (1823 – 1849) was a poor student and a strolling comedian in his very early years, but became the most popular poet of his time at an early age. His work was praised by literary circles as well as by regular people. He was a genius, and a master of

2011.04.20. 15:49:27

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András Török's Budapest: A Critical Guide  

The Celebrated Insider's Guide, upgraded many times, probably the deepest and funnieast and truest portrait of any major European city. With...

András Török's Budapest: A Critical Guide  

The Celebrated Insider's Guide, upgraded many times, probably the deepest and funnieast and truest portrait of any major European city. With...

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