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Military History Museum (Hadtörténeti Múzeum) 4B I. Tóth Árpád sétány 40, www.militaria.hu, open Tuesday to Sunday 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. (April to October) and Tuesday to Sunday 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. (October to April). ••• This building,

PARK_Budapest_belivek_v065.indd 102-103

A Mary Magdalene Tower

The chancel was used by Catholics

(Bécsi kapu) F Lutheran Church

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“The Flying Nun” (“A repülő apáca”) ••• Quite a few street names have become protected by the city. For some, artists have been commissioned to make allegorical figures to illustrate them. This one – on the corner of Országház utca and Petermann bíró utca (a street named for the first known elected official in Buda, who served in the early 14th century) – was created by Miklós Melocco in 1977. According to the memorial plaque next to the figure, the convent of the Order of the Poor Clares, in which Parliament at one time held its sessions, stood nearby at Országház utca 28. The building is now used by the Hungarian Academy of Sciences and Letters. Some further protected street signs are at Dísz tér 8. and Fortuna utca 4.

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B Military while the nave was Protestant. In Hospital in theHistory Rock I.Museum Lovas út 4/c., www.sziklakorhaz.hu ••• C is District Hallrelated of the museum Castle – a secretthe end, itbunker too wasand converted It a nearby, nuclear hos- into a D National Archives Vienna Gate mosque. pital, opened in 2008.E Incredibly authentic!

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Mary Magdalene Tower (Mária Magdolna-torony) 3F ••• On the corner of Országház utca and Kapisztrán tér, this 13th century Franciscan church was where Hungarian speakers worshipped in medieval times. Under Turkish rule this was the only church allowed to remain in Christian use, while all others were converted into mosques. The chancel was used by Catholics, while the nave was Protestant. In the end, it too was converted into a mosque. Both the chancel and the nave were destroyed during World War Two and have not been rebuilt, except for one stone window as a memento. There are plans to rebuild the whole church, but it’s unlikely to happen because of the cost.

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Országház utca 18 – 20 – 22. ••• These three houses, built in the 14th and 15th centuries, reveal how most of the Castle District might originally have looked in the Middle Ages. They also explain why this street used to be called Olasz utca (Italian Street). On the gate of the middle house the initials stand for the name of Johann Nickl, the butcher who had the house rebuilt in 1771. The present tenant of number 22 does not want to lean out of the windows, as was customary in the Middle Ages when there was a knock at the door, so he put a car rearview mirror on his window and keeps his house locked.

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with remarkable twin windows, was built as an army barracks in the 1830s. On both sides of the entry gate, cannonballs can still be seen lodged into the wall. They have not been removed out of respect for the Hungarian army, which liberated the Castle in the spring of 1849. On the round bastion, cannons from the Turkish era are exhibited, some of which have richly ornamented handles in the form of bird’s heads. The museum has a specialised military collection: weapons and uniforms of all kinds and a controversial 20th century history to look back on. But museum-goers here are varied, with boys and old warriors represented in the highest numbers. The museum perhaps shows the least inclination of Budapest’s museums to be transformed into a modern educawalk 1 tional ang institution: 2006/11/22 17:39 Page is 57slow to penetrate here. modern technology Critics also say that complicated problems are rarely portrayed objectively here, with both majority and minority standpoints included. It is no small feat to honor all historic heroes in this WALK ONE 57 country that ended up on the wrong side in both world wars.

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Buda. Enough of the wall painting was left to reconstruct the original decoration, but the function of the five protruding windows remains unknown. There are niches in the doorway, and the staircase was restored in a Baroque style.

The Castle Area and Váci Utca

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The Castle Area and Váci Utca

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destroyed World War Tomb of ainTurkish Go­­ II and have been rebuilt except for ver­­­ nornot ••• Near the left one stone a memento. wing of thewindow, museumasthere There are tomb plans with to rebuild the is a small the whole church, but it’s unlikely to following inscription in happen because of the costs. Hungarian and Turkish: It was near Flying this site that the last On the “The Nun” governor the 143-yearcorner ofof Országház utca and long Turkishbíró ruleutca. in Buda Petermann (The latter fell in a isbattle, at the age of street named after the first 70. He was an heroic enemy. known elected official in Buda, Let rest in whohim served inpeace. the first years of the

14th century.) Quite a few street names have become protected by the city. Recognized artists Let’s walk backwere intocommissioned to make allegorical figures to illustrate them. This one was by Miklós the centre of the Castle A Mary Magdalene Tower Melocco in 1977. district, past a modern (Petermann bíró of the B Military According to the memorial plaque nextbuilding to the figure, the convent History Museum Order of the Poor Clares, in which Parliament at one time its sessions, utca 5 – 7.) that is held in ideal C  District of the Castle stood nearby Hall (Országház utca 28.). The buildingwith is now harmony its used sur- by the Academy of Sciences and Letters. Some roundings further protected street signs D National Archives (designed by are at Dísz tér 8. and at Fortuna utca 4. Csaba Virág, 1979). The E Vienna Gate (Bécsi kapu) giant transformers of the Military History Museum (Hadtörténeti Múzeum) 4B F Lutheran Church National Electric Supply I. Tóth Árpád sétány 40. This was built as an army barracks in the 1830s, with remarkable twin windows. On both sides of the gate some cannonballs can be seen in the wall; these have not been removed, out of respect for the Hungarian army, which liberated the castle in the spring of 1849. On the round bastion, cannons from the Turkish era are exhibited, some of which have richly ornamented handles in the form of a bird’s head. 2011.04.20. 15:49:12 The museum has, of course a specialised collection: weapons and uniforms

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András Török's Budapest: A Critical Guide  

The Celebrated Insider's Guide, upgraded many times, probably the deepest and funnieast and truest portrait of any major European city. With...

András Török's Budapest: A Critical Guide  

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