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Főzelék Faló VI. Nagymező utca 22. This very small shop has hardly any space to stand, and there is a constant queue in lunchtime. The speciality here is főzelék, a vegetable dish with roux. It is located in the heart of Budapest’s “Broadway”, the theatre district. Actors and theatre folks are here until quite late. Millennium Court Salad Millennium Court, V. Váci utca between Régiposta utca, Galamb utca and Pesti Barnabás utca This is probably the best modern place in town, with one queue for salad and another for sandwiches, though you can head directly to the refrigerated sandwiches and drinks. There is even a modest pre-packed sushi supply and free Internet access. There is great seating in the courtyard, and it’s a favourite of the expat community. Hold utca Market V. Hold utca 13. This traditional market has a great choice of all kinds of quick bites. The clientele is bank ladies of all ages, mixed with tourists and construction workers. The good fish vendor should not to be overlooked.

Why Should I Buy Wine in Budapest? And Where? All of Hungary is a wine-growing zone. This fact, along with the special soil and climatic qualities of various regions, explains how such a small country can boast 22 strictly delimited quality wine districts. Indeed, one of the most amazing facts about Hungarian wines is their great variety: Hungary belongs to the few wine-growing countries in the world to produce the entire range of classic wine styles including whites, rosés, reds, sparkling wines, and naturally sweet wines (botrytis whites). These different wines are made from an impressive range of grape varieties characterized by a certain equilibrium between international and local varieties. Hungary is often considered a white wine country – though red wines are getting better and better. Since 1990 amazing development has taken place on the wine scene, and at a fast pace. Wine culture here is still in the process of being re-established to its pre-war glory.

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Probably the best wine shops in town Bortársaság (Budapest Wine Society) I. Batthyány utca 59., www.bortarsasag.hu, open Monday to Friday 10 a.m. to 8 p.m., Saturday 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. Attila Tálos and his colleagues will guide you through the stunning complexity of Hungarian wine regions and grape varieties and the growing number of quality-conscious wine producers at this tastefully furnished cellar-shop. There’s a good choice of wine from all of Hungary’s interesting regions sold at reasonable prices. The shop is a five-minute walk from Moszkva tér (on the way up to Castle Hill), and be sure to mind the steps when you’re leaving. While you’re here, don’t miss the habos mákos, a delicious cake with poppy seeds and meringue at the Bécsi kapu confectioner’s shop around the corner on Ostrom utca. Bortársaság has several other shops around the city including one at IX. Ráday utca 7. and V. Szent István tér 3. La Boutique des Vins V. József Attila utca 12., www.malatinszky.hu, open Monday to Friday 10 a.m. to 8 p.m., Saturday 10 a.m. to 3 p.m. Owner Csaba Malatinszky, who is an ex-Gundel sommelier as well as a winemaker, will be glad to share his knowledge if you find him in the shop. The staff here is competent and there is a good range of Hungarian wine from many wine regions, but it is difficult to see what is actually on the shelves. The shop is a two-minute walk from Vörösmarty tér. Bock Bisztró and wine shop VII. Erzsébet körút 43 – 47., www.bock.hu, open Monday to Saturday noon to midnight. This is an informal restaurant with great food (mentioned in the Michelin restaurant guide in 2007 and 2008, no stars, though, of course.) It is the joint venture of a wine producer (József Bock from the Villány region) and of a chef. One wall of the restaurant holds a substantial collection of select bottles. Első Pesti Borház (First Wine House in Pest) V. Bajcsy-Zsilinszky út 18., www.borbazilika.com, open Monday to Friday 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. This very large store is partly underground.

2011.04.20. 15:50:08

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The Celebrated Insider's Guide, upgraded many times, probably the deepest and funnieast and truest portrait of any major European city. With...

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