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was never built, simply because permission was not given to break through the city wall. Later it became the Károly Army Barracks, and it has been the Town Hall since 1894. There are 47 windows in each row of the façade. The statues above the main entrance were remade in the late 1990s.

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A Main Post Office B A Block of Flats from the Early Forties C Hotel

H EGerbeaud Main PostD Office Taverna Fontana Department Store McDonald’s F Hotel Marriott

GBVigadó H Gerbeaud Luxusthe Department Store J Office block K Parking I Elegant  A block of flatsI from shops block L Servite Church M Budapest City Hall N Lutheran Church

early 1940s

C    Hotel Taverna (Mercure) D Fontana Department Store

E McDonald’s F Hotel Marriott

J   Office block

K   Parking block L   Servite Church

Walk THREE

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Aranykéz utca 2. ••• At the corner of Régiposta utca, this boldly imaginative design recalls that of the Vigadó. Built by Miklós and Ernő Román in 1930, the ground floor is occupied by offices. The lift starts from the mezzanine level. The City Preservation

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A Row of Lamps V. Régiposta utca 10. ••• Art nouveau neglected the cult of lions in Pest. These lamps, located between the ground and first floors, are a rare exception. Rescue teams have been organized to save and repair the old lamps. On Váci utca there are too many of them, and too much antiquarianism is as bad as none.

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Apartment Building from the early 1940s 24B V. Párizsi utca 6. ••• Only a few Budapesters look up to inspect the vivid, elegant façade of this building from Párizsi utca. It was built in the middle of the war, between 1942 and 1944, by Gedeon Gerlóczy. It is very difficult to imagine a war in peacetime.

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Main Post Office (Főposta) 23J, 24A V. Városház utca 18. ••• This building, built by Antal Skalniczky in 1875, is the one that blocks the view of City Hall. Let’s walk through its ground floor. As soon as you enter you can count ten types of marble at the foot of the stairs. This is where poste restante letters arriving in Budapest are held and where the queue, a familiar thing in totalitarian Budapest, still exists. Post office officials must have never visited US post offices, where there is only one queue, which makes the lines move more smoothly.

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Budapest City Hall (Polgármesteri Hivatal) 23I V. Városház utca 9 – 11. ••• Construction of this building began in 1711. Originally it was meant to be a home for disabled soldiers covering an area of 189 by 189 metres. In the end, only the east wing was built by Anton Erhard Martinelli, the court architect, in 1747. The building housed 2,000 soldiers and Maria Theresa said it was more beautiful than her own palace in Vienna. The rest of the building was never built, simply because permission was not given to break through the city wall. Later it became the Károly Army Barracks, and it has been the City Hall since 1894. On the façade there are 47 windows in each row. The statues above the main entrance were remade in the late 1990s. The other side of the building, on Károly körút, was a row of shops after World War Two and was razed in 2005. It is awaiting redevelopment, in the framework of a large project called “heart of the city”.

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nothing is naff, except for maybe the chandeliers, which are easy to change.

The other end of the building, on Károly körút (Small Boulevard) was a row of shops after World War II, razed only in 2005. It is awaiting redevelopment. Gellérthegy and The Old City 205

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Gellérthegy and The Old City

Pá riz si

204

M   Budapest City Hall N   Lutheran Church

G Vigadó Association has a special task force specializing in old lifts, in an attempt to save as many as possible. Apáczai Csere János utca was right next to the river before the quay was built. Now it is overshadowed by the back of the Marriott Hotel. The street is homogeneous, made up of entirely neo-Classical buildings, all built with taste and with their own surprises. At number 3. there is a half-naked beauty in marble, named Persephoneia, musing in the staircase and trying to hide one of her breasts behind a colourful and inadequate bunch of flowers. At number 5. there are some exceptionally pretty iron grilles, as well as wooden and stone ornaments protecting the building’s corners. A building company has moved into number

2011.04.20. 15:49:40

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András Török's Budapest: A Critical Guide  

The Celebrated Insider's Guide, upgraded many times, probably the deepest and funnieast and truest portrait of any major European city. With...

András Török's Budapest: A Critical Guide  

The Celebrated Insider's Guide, upgraded many times, probably the deepest and funnieast and truest portrait of any major European city. With...

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