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CONTENTS

42

28 12 18 20 22

COLORS OF THE CITY CALENDAR ART EXHIBITIONS ARCHITECT

24

24 SUVANNAPHOUM FEATURE THE LAND OF A THOUSAND PAGODAS A TRIP TO BAGAN

28 CULTURE PRIOR TO THE ART OF PRINTING

30 FEATURE STORIES BEHIND THE WALLS THE JOURNEY OF MURAL PAINTINGS

30 38

31 TRAVEL FEATURE STORIES OF EASTERN LANNA A WORTHWHILE TRIP TO SEE MURAL PAINTINGS IN NAN

42 AROUND US BACK STREET ARTISTS

46 THAI TALKS 日本の板目木版画とポルノ

50 GIFT IDEAS STREET IN STYLE

52 54 56 60 62 66 68 70

SLEEP DINING TEST TASTE RECIPE SHOPPING GOLF REVIEW CHECK IT OUT BUDGET HOTEL DIRECTORY

SEE GREATER CHIANG MAI MAP NEXT TO PAGE 48

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C REDITS

CONTRIBUTORS PANUPONG LAOHASOM Ajarn Panupong is the Head of Thai Arts Department, Faculty of Fine Arts, Chiang Mai University. He has taken long time to research mural paintings and has kindly helped us provide much more information on murals in FEATURE.

Publisher Sor Siri Suvannaphoum Co. Ltd. President Dr. Anuchit Ruksomboondee Consultants Chongchet Siri, Rachen Intawong, Wattana Autachaiwat and Assoc. Prof. Nakarate Rungkawat

Editor in Chief Adithep Nuamcherm Consultant to Editor in Chief Jirakrit Sirithanawat Secretary to Managing Director & Event Organizer Pakin Thanutrapong

Editor Jirat Prasertsup Sub-editor Adam Lynton Japanese Editor & Translator Mayumi Kashiwa Art Director & Photo Editor Kriangkrai Chaimanat Graphic Designers Thodsaphon Ninsin, Warawut Thichina and Sathaporn Kongyoo

Sales & Marketing Director Alisa Sompong Sales & Advertising Kanyarat Fongchan Accounting & Finance Nutthaya Patthamachaiyant Assistant to Accounting & Finance Nataya Pitida Assistant to Accounting & Customer Service Siriwat Ketmek Intern Naruepakorn Manewan

SOMRIT HAIKUM Somrit Haikum is the President of Chiang Mai Guide Association. This issue, he contributed the article on Bagan attractions in SUVANNAPHOUM FEATURE. PICHAI BOONCOOMYOU Pichai Booncoomyou or Kobby1 is a graffiti writer and street artist who has introduced many interesting street culture to Chiang Mai. He contributed the graffiti mural in this issue’s cover. Contact him at http:// kobby1.exteen.com/.

FOR ADVERTISING Please contact 053 810811, 08 5694 4123 and 08 1530 5185 E-mail: alisa.sp8@gmail.com (Alisa) and nobita_pcm@hotmail.com (Nobita)

Office Address

Tel. Fax Website E-mail

Sor Siri Suvannaphoum Co. Ltd. 119/48 Moo 5, Tambon Suthep Muang district, Chiang Mai 50200 0 5381 0801 0 53 810811 www.svpmagazine.com svp@svpmagazine.com http://twitter.com/svpmag www.portfolios.net/profile/svpmag www.facebook.com/svpmagazine

PASSPORT TO SUVANNAPHOUM VOL.10 NO.6 JUNE 2011

ABOUT THE COVER

Graffiti Writer Pichai Booncoomyou together with our team designed and created the contemporary graffiti mural of a Lanna couple which is adapted from the renowned mural painting in Wat Phumin, Nan province. Taken at the deserted area behind Suriwong Book Center.


THE KING’S FEATURE . ăƒŻă‚¤ăƒłç‰šé›† Text: Passport to Suvannaphoum Photo: Taken from the mural painting at Wat Buddha Ratana Starn, Royal Palace

9

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eing  the  world’s  longest  serving  king  with  over  60   years  on  the  throne,  His  Majesty  the  King  Bhumibol  is   very  intelligent  in  science  and  art;͞  he  is  also  a  great  king   who  reins  the  country  with  virtue.  Though  there  have  been   PDQ\JUHDW¿OPVDQGSURJUDPVDERXWZKDWWKHNLQJKDV GRQHIRUKLVEHORYHGSHRSOHDQGFRXQWU\WKHPXUDOSDLQW-­ ings   at  Wat   Buddha   Rattana   Starn   in   the   Royal   Palace,   Bangkok,  illustrate  them  beautifully.   7KHPXUDOSDLQWLQJVDUHORFDWHGEHWZHHQWKHZLQGRZV inside  the  ubosotRIWKHWHPSOH7KH)LQH$UWV'HSDUWPHQW was  in  charge  of  narrating  the  history  of  Rattanakosin  and   the  valuable  duties  of  the  King,  using  ancient  techniques   WRFUHDWHWKH¿QHPXUDOV Wat   Buddha   Ratana   Starn   was   established   by     Phrabat   Somdet   Phra   Chomklao   Chao  Yu   Hua   (Rama   IV)  around  one  hundred  years  ago.  King  Rama  IV  asked   WKHUR\DOSDLQWHUVWRSDLQWWKHPXUDOVDURXQGZDOOVLQVLGH WKHWHPSOHGHSLFWLQJVWRULHVDERXWWKHKLVWRU\RI3KUD   %XGGKD %XWVD\DUDWWDQD YLVLWLQJ 5DWWDQDNRVLQ 'XULQJ World  War  II,  Thailand  was  attacked  and  a  few  bombs  hit   WKH5R\DO3DODFHGDPDJLQJWKHQRUWKZDOORIWKHWHPSOH $IWHU WKH ZDU UR\DO RI¿FHUV UHQRYDWHG WKH WHPSOH DQG SDLQWHUV FUHDWHG QHZ PXUDO SDLQWLQJV ZKHUH ROG PXUDOV KDGEHHQGDPDJHG$WWKDWWLPHWKHSDLQWHUVSDLQWHGWKH UR\DOGXWLHVRIWKH.LQJ$QDQGD0DKLGRO 5DPD9,, DQG %KXPLERO$GXO\DGHM 5DPD,; GXULQJ¹LQD   FRQWHPSRUDU\VW\OH ,Q+LV0DMHVW\WKH.LQJFKDQJHGWKHSDLQWLQJV RQ WKH VSDFHV EHWZHHQ WKH ZLQGRZV WR FRQIRUP WR WKH SDLQWLQJVDERYHWKHZLQGRZV7KHQHZSDLQWLQJVœWKHPH was  therefore  changed  to  the  history  of  Rattanakosin  era,   Chakri   dynasty,   using   the   same   technique   for   ancient   SDLQWLQJVZLWKSRZGHUFRORUV The  King  also  ordered  that  the  murals  in  Wat  Buddha   Rattana  Starn  should  be  realistic  and  the  stories  authentic;͞   FORWKHV VLWXDWLRQV FHUHPRQLHV LPSRUWDQW SHUVRQV   DSSOLDQFHVIDFLOLWLHVDQGPRUHKDGWREHXSWRGDWHRQWKH PXUDOVLWHVSDLQWHUVIURPWKH)LQH$UWV'HSDUWPHQW FUHDWHGWKHSDLQWLQJVVWDUWLQJLQ)HEUXDU\DQG¿QDOO\ ¿QLVKLQJLQ0DUFK

7KH PRVW LPSRUWDQW VFHQH RI WKH PXUDO LV RQ WKH th  SLFWXUHZKLFKLOOXVWUDWHVWKHSHULRGZKHQ+LV0DMHVW\WKH .LQJ%KXPLERODVFHQGHGWRWKHWKURQHRQth0D\DW the  Royal  Palace.   ăƒŠă‚żăƒŠă‚šă‚żăƒźăƒłäť?ĺŻşă ŽĺŁ ç”ťâˆ’ĺ›˝çŽ‹ă Žĺ¤šć§˜ă Şĺ›˝ĺ‹™ă Œć??ă ‹ă‚Œă &#x;çľľ â€ƒä¸–ç•Œă §ćœ€ă‚‚é•ˇă „ďź–ďź?ĺš´ă Žĺ?›ä¸ťă€ ăƒ–ăƒ&#x;ăƒœăƒŤĺ›˝çŽ‹ă Żă€ ç§‘ĺ­Śă ¨čŠ¸čĄ“ă Ťă ¨ă Śă‚‚ĺ„Şă‚Œă &#x; ć‰?čƒ˝ă‚’ă ŠćŒ ă Ąă Žĺ ‰ĺ¤§ă Şĺ›˝çŽ‹ă §ă ‚ă‚‹ă€‚ĺ›˝çŽ‹ă Œĺ›˝ć°‘ă‚„ă‚żă‚¤ă Žĺœ&#x;ĺœ°ă Ťă “ă‚Œă žă §ă Ťćˆ? ă —é ‚ă ’ă &#x;多ă ?ă ŽćĽ­ç¸žă ŒçŽ‹ĺŽŽĺ†…ă Ťă ‚ă‚‹ăƒŠă‚żăƒŠă‚šă‚żăƒźăƒłäť?ĺŻşă ŽĺŁ ç”ťă Ťć??ă ‹ă‚Œă Śă „ る。 㠓㠎寺㠯約ďź?ďź?ĺš´ĺ‰?ă Ťĺťşă Śă‚‰ă‚Œă€ ăƒŠăƒžçŽ‹ďź”ä¸–ă ŒĺŻşă Ťäť?ć§˜ă ŒăƒŠă‚żăƒŠă‚łăƒźă‚ˇ ăƒłă‚’č¨Şă‚Œă &#x;ć­´ĺ?˛ă‚’書㠋㠛ă &#x;ă Žă Œĺ§‹ă žă‚Šă §ă ‚ă‚‹ă€‚ďź‘ďź™ďź™ďź™ĺš´ă Ťç?žĺœ¨ă Žĺ›˝çŽ‹ă Œć–° ă —ă ?ć??ă ?ă ‹ă ˆă‚żăƒŠă‚łăƒźă‚ˇăƒłć™‚äťŁă€ ăƒ ăƒŁă‚ŻăƒŞçŽ‹ćœ?ă Žć­´ĺ?˛ă‚’〠ĺ?¤äťŁă ŽćŠ€čĄ“を用㠄㠪 ă Œă‚‰ăƒŞă‚˘ăƒŞă‚šăƒ†ă‚Łăƒƒă‚Żă Ťć??ă ‹ă ›ă &#x;。é‡?čŚ ă ŞĺŁ ç”ťă Žă‚ˇăƒźăƒłă Żďź—ćžšç›Žă Žĺ›˝çŽ‹ă ŒçŽ‹ä˝? ă Ťĺ°ąă ‹ă‚Œă &#x;ďź?ĺš´ďź•ćœˆďź•ć—Ľă Žçľľă §ă ‚ă‚‹ă€‚


10

SAWAT DII . サワディー

6$:$7',, サワディー

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DYLQJ UHVHDUFKHG PXUDO SDLQWLQJV GHSLFWLQJ WKHOLIHVW\OHVRIDQFLHQWSHRSOHDQG%XGGKLVWIDEOHVLQ &KLDQJ0DL%DQJNRNDQG$\XWWKD\DIRUWKLVPRQWK¶V LVVXH,QRWLFHGPDQ\LPDJHVRIWRSOHVVZRPHQ,QWKH SDVW WKHUH ZDV DOPRVW QR HVFDSLQJ WKH KHDW VR ERWK PHQDQGZRPHQZRXOGJRWRSOHVVZKLFKLVZK\PDQ\   WUDGLWLRQDO VFXOSWXUHV SDLQWLQJV DQG RWKHU DUWV LQ 7KDLODQG  IHDWXUH WRSOHVV ZRPHQ VXFK DV .LQDUHH LQ   P\WKRORJ\ PHUPDLGV 3KL 6XD 6DPXW DQG W\SLFDO   villagers,  and  none  have  a  hint  of  obscenity.   It   is   thus   extremely   irritating   that   the   Culture     0LQLVWU\FRQVLVWHQWO\FHQVRUHYHQWV79SURJUDPVDQG movies   that   feature   nudity.   Though   there   are   rating   systems   and   watersheds   to   deal   with   the   content   of   WKHSURJUDPVWKHDQQR\LQJPRVDLFFHQVRUVDSSHDULQ DOFRKROGULQNLQJVFHQHVWRFRYHUXSJXQVDQGZRPHQ¶V EUHDVWV2IFRXUVHVRPHRIWKHFHQVRUVKLSLVZDUUDQWHG but  all  too  often  it  is  done  without  any  need  and  it  comes   across   as   ridiculous,   such   as   when   Shizuka   from   the   'RUDHPRQFDUWRRQKDGKHUEUHDVWVFHQVRUHG

5HFHQWO\VRPHSHRSOHULGLFXORXVO\FRPSODLQHGWRWKH Ministry about  the  Kinaree  characters  they  use  on  their   RI¿FLDOZHEVLWHDVWKH\DUHWRSOHVVDQGXQFHQVRUHG6RRQ after,   the   Kinarees   were   removed   from   the   website.   If   WKHRI¿FLDOVDWWKH0LQLVWU\KDYHVXFKZHLUGDQGVWXSLG   VWDQGDUGV ZH PD\ ¿QG WKDW RQH GD\ WKH\ FRPH WR WKH   WHPSOHVDQGFHQVRUWKHWRSOHVVZRPHQLQWKHPXUDOV       Jirat  Prasertsup,  Editor 古代の人々の生活や仏教寓話を描いた壁画には、多くの女性の トップレスの絵が描かれている。昔は暑さから女性も男性もトップ レスで、わいせつな意味は持たない。文化省はテレビ番組や映画に 出てくる銃や喫煙、飲酒、 ヌード要素のあるシーンを一貫して過敏す ぎるほどモザイクセンサーで隠す。もちろんいくつかは正当である が、 ドラえもんの静香ちゃんの胸がセンサーで隠されているのを見 たときには馬鹿らしく思われた。最近では愚かな人々が公式ウェブ サイトにトップレスのキナレ絵を用いていることに対して省に抗議 した。 このような馬鹿な基準なら、いつかお寺の絵もセンサーで隠 されるのかもしれない。


12

COLORS OF THE CITY

New Chiang Mai Senator

36th Anniversary of Charity For Chiang Mai

Sarawut Saetiew, President of Chiang Mai Tourism Business Association, together with the board members of the association, congratulated Dr. Watchara Tantranont, Honorary Consul of Korea in Chiang Mai, for his appointment as new Chiang Mai Senator.

ML Preeyaphan Sridhavaj, Honor Consul of Peru in Chiang Mai, held the 36th Anniversary Charity for Chiang Mai at the Grand Ballroom, the Empress Hotel due to she was appointed to be the Chiang Mai Senator.

Chiang Mai Best Deal

Muslim Lanna Fair

Tourism Authority of Thailand organized a press release launching the website ‘www.chiangmaibestdeal.com’ at Jong Kham Convention, Rati Lanna Hotel Chiang Mai.

Surapong Pongdejkhajorn, Secretary of Industrial Minister, presided over the opening of Muslim Lanna Fair at Chiang Mai Hall, Central Plaza Chiang Mai Airport.

The Seminar of Beijing – Chiang Mai Tourism Business Development

Royal Flora Expo returns

6QWTKUO #WVJQTKV[ QH 6JCKNCPF $GKLKPI 1HĂŒEG invited tour agencies from China to observe the tourism markets in Chiang Mai, plus organized a seminar to develop their business at Le Meridien Hotel, Chiang Mai.

Jirakorn Kosaisawee, Director General of the Department of Agriculture, and ML Panadda Diskul, Chiang Mai Governor, held a press conference about VJG4Q[CN(NQTC'ZRQCV)Ă?QQT%GPVTCN2NC\C Chiang Mai Airport. The expo is expected to be held from 9th November 2011 - 15th February 2012 at Ratchapruek Garden.


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COLORS OF THE CITY . 街の色彩

Chiang Mai Golf Festival 2011

Sombat Kuruphan, the Permanent Secretary of the Tourism and Sports Ministry, and Wichai Srikuan, Chairman of Tourism Authority of Thailand, presided over the ‘Chiang Mai Golf Festival 2011’ at Alpine Golf Resort Chiang Mai.

Press Conference Singha Corporate Golf Challenge 2011 Woranon Samkoset, CEO of Muang Kaew Golf Club, together with alliances held a press conference regarding the Singh Corporate Golf Challenge at Chiang Mai Highland Golf and Spa Resort.

Antinori Wine Maker Diner @ Le Meridien Chiang Mai Jirakorn Kosaisawee, Director General of the Le Meridien Hotel Chiang Mai organized ‘Antinori Wine Maker Dinner - Longtable 07’ with a variety of luxury wines and a friendly party.


AD GOFT FESTIVAL


16

COLORS OF THE CITY

Grand Opening Robinson Chiang Rai

Samui Clean Up Day

Chiang Rai Governor Somchai Hatayatunti presided over the grand opening of Robinson Chiang Rai with board members of the Robinson Group.

Bangkok Airways and traders in Koh Samui Island JGNRGFENGCPWRVJGKUNCPFCHVGTVJGNCVGUVĂ?QQFUVQ welcome back tourists.

AIS Campaign for the strong-willed

Opening The Pizza Company @ Central Plaza Chiang Rai

‘San Rak’ project from AIS held a campaign for determined persons at the Center of Juvenile Training, Region 7, Chiang Mai. The campaign was organized to encourage children in the center to start their lives again.

CPN managing board congratulated Andy Holman, the Deputy Chairman of Pizza Company, on the opening of The Pizza Company at Central Plaza Chiang Rai.

Tanaporn Clinic Exclusive Workshop

Press Conference SGP CNG Pick Up

Tanaporn Clinic held an exclusive health and beauty workshop on the 2nd floor Panna Plaza, Nimmanhaemin Soi 6.

Chanasilp Motor Co. Ltd. launched ‘SGP CNG 2KEM7R¿ŸVJGĂŒTUV%0)HQTRKEMWRUCPGYCNVGTPCVKXG energy-saving vehicle.


18

ă‚ŤăƒŹăƒłăƒ€ăƒź

CALENDAR

Now - 5th JUNE

CITY PILLAR WORSHIP CEREMONY Venue: Wat Chedi Luang, Chiang Mai

An ancient Lanna festival in Chiang Mai at Wat Chedi Luang, home to the ‘Pillar of the City’: a tall pole used in ancient Thai fertility rites. The ceremony will be followed by a fair at the temple. For more information Tel. 0 5381 4119

25th - 26th June

FHON PHI CEREMONY TO WORSHIP ANCIENT HOUSES’ SPIRITS Venue: The Center for the Promotion of

Arts and Culture, Chiang Mai University The Center for the Promotion of Arts and Culture with theDepartment of Thai Arts, the Faculty of Fine Arts, CMU, will organize the traditional spiritual dance ceremony to pay homage the ancestor spirits who take care of the ancient houses in the Center for the Promotion of Arts and Culture near Ton Phayom Market during 25th - 26th June, 2011. For more information Tel. 0 5394 3626, 0 5394 3629

30th JUNE - 3rd JULY

PANTOMIME IN BANGKOK

Venue: Centerpoint Play House, VJĂ?QQT%GPVTCN9QTNF$CPIMQM See a professional and fun-filled pantomime show performed by Japanese, German and Thai artists such as Guri Guri Girls (Japan), Metroccolis (Germany), Babymime (Thailand) and more. Tickets are 700 – 1,400 Baht at www.thaiticketmajor.com For more information Tel. 0 2262 3456

9th - 16th JUNE

PHRATHAT SI CHOMTHONG BATHING CEREMONY

Venue: Wat Phra That Si Chomthong Temple, Chom Thong district, Chiang Mai Wat Phrathat Si Chomthong is one of the most important temples in Chiang Mai and is hugely respected by local people. There will be a ceremony to worship the pagoda, or ‘Phrathat’, of the temple by bathing it according to an ancient Lanna ceremony. A temple fair will also be put on during the week. For more information Tel. 0 5324 8604

Now - 15th June

LEVI’S 501 MAN SEARCH – TOUGH AS YOUR SPIRIT

Venue: Robinson throughout the country LEVI’S jeans is searching smart guys aged between 16 – 30 years who are at least 170 centimeters tall for being new models. Those who are interested can send aplications to Robinson Chiang Mai, Hat Yai, Khon Kaen and Future Park Rangsit, Bangkok from now until 15th June and the winners will be announced on 2nd July 2011 at Central Plaza Airport Chiang Mai. The winner will be awarded 200,000 Baht and will be the model of IMAGE, MEN’S HEALTH and VOLUME magazines. For more information www.facebook.com/levis.thailand

Now - 30th JUNE

CHIANG MAI GOLF FESTIVAL

Venue: 12 leading golf courses in Chiang Mai and Lamphun Chiang Mai province invites golfers to participate in this special golf festival which boasts plenty of promotions, including 800 Baht for green fees at every leading course in Chiang Mai and Lamphun. For more information Tel. 0 5324 8604


20

ă‚˘ăƒźăƒˆă‚¨ă‚­ă‚ˇăƒ“ă‚¸ăƒ§ăƒł

ART EXHIBITIONS

NOW - 28th JUNE

THE 3rd ART THESIS EXHIBITION

Venue: 6JG3WGGP)CNNGT[$CPIMQM

NOW - 13th JUNE

CHANGE THIS WORLD POSTER EXHIBITION

Venue: 96(%CHG)CNNGT[5WMJWOXKV $CPIMQM

Amnesty International Thailand invites you to visit a global exhibition ‘Change this world! 50 years of posters for Amnesty International (1961-2011)’. To commemorate the 50th anniversar y of international organization that works to protect and defend human rights worldwide, posters are displayed at this exhibition collected from Amnesty International’s campaigns from the past 50 years from every corner of the world. For more information Tel. 0 2662 6246 or www.wtfbangkok.com

NOW – ONWARDS CHIANG MAI NOW

Venue: $CPIMQM#TVCPF%WNVWTG Center This is an exhibition demonstrating a process of occurrences, activities, and experiments of contemporary culture that are currently happening in Chiang Mai. Angkrit Ajchariyasophon curates the exhibition, putting forward unique perspectives of the 12 artists and cultural activists. For more information Tel. 0 2214 6630 or www.bacc.or.th

The 3rd Art Thesis Exhibition gathers theses from students from 26 art institutions nationwide, comprising outstanding works by 92 final-year undergraduate and graduate art students in painting. For more information Tel. 0 2281 5360

NOW - 25th SEPTEMBER

FARMER: RICE GURU OR SCIENTIST?

Venue: /WUGWO5KCO$CPIMQM

Museum Siam’s exhibition showcases the entire process of Thai farming, including how they deal with nature both scientifically and spiritually. The lifestyles of farmers and their paddy fields are also shown in this exhibition. Museum Siam opens daily except Monday. For more information Tel. 0 2225 2777 or www.museumsiam.com

NOW - 19th JUNE ANCIENT OTAKU

Venue: #TFGN)CNNGT[$CPIMQM

Ancient Otaku is the second solo exhibition by Thosapol Boriboon. The stem of the exhibition comes from the Japanese term ‘Otaku’ which is used to refer to people with obsessive interests. Feelings, emotions and introspection of the artist are added into the artworks as symbolic figures to represent the overlap between the truth in cyber space and the illusions that exist in the real world. For more information Tel. 0 2422 2092 or www.ardelgallery.com

NOW – ONWARDS WHAT IS DESIGN?

Venue: Thailand Creative Design %GPVGT'ORQTKWO$CPIMQM This permanent exhibition showcases classic designs from 10 countries that have distinctive design styles, such as United Kingdom, France, Italy, United States and Japan. You will become aware of how, in every country, design draws upon cultural assets to inspire and create something new and unique. For more information Tel. 0 2664 8448 or www.tcdc.or.th


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ARCHITECT . 建築 Text The Center for Promotion of Arts and Culture, Chiang Mai University Photo: Sathaporn Kongyoo

AUI PAD’S  KALAE  HOUSE @  the  Lanna  Traditional  House  Museum

The Lana   Traditional   House     Museum   in   the   Center   for   Promotion   of   Arts   and   Culture,   Chiang   Mai     University,   presents   a   rare   exhibition   of   traditional   Lanna   houses,   offering     education  of  the  area’s  culture  beyond   its   ancient   residents.   The   exhibited   houses  are  divided  into  categories  based   on  this  diversity,  displaying  both  local   Lanna-­style  structures  and  others  from   various  parts  of  the  country;;  the  Kalae   house   of  Aui   Pad   is   also   one   of   the   prominent  houses  in  the  museum.           Kalae   houses   face   east   with   roof   ridges  oriented  along  a  north  to  south   direction.  In  between  two  gables,  there   is   a   gutter   or   ‘hong-­lin’.   The   house   comprises   of   two   compartments   shar-­ ing   the   same   roof   and   platform:   the   larger  compartment  is  a  sleeping  area,   while  the  smaller  is  a  cooking  area;;  the   bathroom  is  usually  built  away  from  the   house.  The  front  veranda-­porch,  called  a   ‘toen’,  serves  as  a  working,  resting  and   sleeping  area  for  brothers  of  the  owner,   whilst  the  partition,  which  extends  from   the  wooden  wall  called  ‘fah-­lab-­nang’,   serves  as  private  area  for  the  daughter.  

There is  no  ‘tueng’  or  ceiling  under   the  concave  roof  to  drain  heat  and  above   カラエ様式の家@ラナ伝統建築博物館 the  door  of  the  sleeping  area,  there  is  a   ラナ伝統建築博物館はチェンマイ大学の芸術文化 notable  decorative  lintel  called  a  ‘hum-­ プロモーションの中心である。展示されている家々 yon’.  A   post   beside   the   front   stairs   is   はそれぞれ様式ごとに分けられ、ラナ様式のものと called  a  ‘sao-­laeng-­mah’,  which  dogs   他の地方からのもの、両方がある。カラエ式の家は 東向きで、屋根は北と南に向かって造られている。 are  tied  to. The  kalae  house  is  constructed  from   2つの区画からなり、大きい区画は寝室、小さい区 teak   posts   and   levers.   The   posts   are   画は台所。八角形のチーク材の柱で造られており、 normally  lathed  into  an  octagon  shape   6つの柱で家全体を支えている。壁はまっすぐでは and   the   house   consists   of   six   pairs   of   なく、内側のスペースを作り出すために外側に傾い 「カラエ」 と呼ばれる2本の角のような木彫 octagon   posts.   These   posts   bear   the   ている。 で飾られていることから、 「カラエ家」 と呼ばれる。 weight   of   the   whole   house,   the   four   walls   of   which   lean   outwards   instead   of  going  straight  up  in  order  to  increase   space  for  shelves  inside  the  room.  It  is   also  built  elevated  from  the  ground  to   keep  the  temperature  as  low  as  possible.   The   uniqueness   of   a   traditional   kalae   house   is   a   decorative   wooden   carving  called  a  ‘kalae’  shaped  like  a   pair   of   horns,   and   is   where   the   house   gets  its  name. The Center for the Promotion of Arts and Culture, Chiang Mai University Suthep Rd., T. Suthep, Muang Chiang Mai Tel. 0 5394 3626, 0 5394 3629 or www.art-culture.chiangmai.ac.th


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SUVANNAPHOUM FEATURE Text & Photo: Passport to Suvannaphoum


SUVANNAPHOUM FEATURE

THE LAND  OF  

A THOUSAND  PAGODAS 何千ものパゴダのある地−バガンを訪れる旅

A trip  to  Bagan    

When we think of visiting Myanmar, Yangon’s Shwedagon Pagoda is at the forefront of our minds. This golden pagoda, which contains 8 pieces of the Buddha’s hair relics, is not only an attraction in our neighboring country, but Northern people, especially those born in the year of dog, wish to make a pilgrimage to Phrathat Inkaewn or Kyaikhtiyo Pagoda in Mon once in their life time, according to Lanna belief. Anyway, there is also an attraction that you should not miss. It is the place where thousands of pagodas are exotically located...

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SUVANNAPHOUM FEATURE Text & Photo: Passport to Suvannaphoum

Suvannaphoum  land  literary  means   the   golden   land   and   consists   of   India,   Myanmar,  Thailand,  Laos  and  Cambodia   and  is  a  strong  Buddhist  base,  especially   in  Myanmar.  There  is  no  clear  evidence   when   Buddhism   arrived   in   Myanmar   but  King  Okkalapa  had  a  strong  belief   an d   e s t a b l i s h e d   t h e   S h w e d a g o n   3DJRGDDURXQG\HDUVDJRWKH¿UVW   evidence  of  Buddhism  in  Myanmar.   The   Pegan   Kingdom   (1044-­1287),   or   Bagan   in   modern   tongue,   was   the   ¿UVWG\QDVW\LQWKHKLVWRU\RI0\DQPDU It  is  located  in  the  dry  central  plains  of   the  country,  on  the  eastern  bank  of  the     Irrawady   River,   140   kilometers   south-­ west   of   Mandalay.   In   the   past,   the     dynasty  was  in  the  trading  route  between   India   and   South   China,   the   kingdom     UHFHLYLQJSUR¿WVIURPWD[LQJRIWUDGHDQG the  route  alongside  the  river.  


SUVANNAPHOUM FEATURE

The majority   of   the   kingdom’s   buildings   were   built   during   the   11 th   century   and   13 th   century,   at   which   time   Bagan   was   the   capital   of  the  First  Burmese  Empire.  It  was   not   until   King   Pyinbya   moved   the     capital  to  Bagan  in  874  that  it  became   a  major  city.   In  1057,  King  Anawratha  conquered   the   Mon   capital   of   Thaton,   and   brought   back   Buddhist   monks   and   craftsmen,  and  they  were  made  good   use  of  in  order  to  transform  Bagan  into   a  religious  centre.  Many  temples  and   FRQVWUXFWLRQVLQWKHDUHDLQWKH¿UVWHUD ZHUHLQÀXHQFHGE\WKH0RQ The  most  gorgeous  era  of  Pegan   was   during   the   reign   of   Kyanzittha   who   built   many   pagodas   such   as   Ku   Phaya  Ananda   which   is   a   Mon   architectural   masterpiece.   During   that  period,  Pegan  was  said  to  be  the   land  of  4  millions  pagodas.  After  that,   King  Alaungsithu  came  to  the  throne,   and  reigned  the  Pegan  Kingdom  for   50  years.  The  king  built  the  irrigation   system,   public   utilities   and   many     pagodas  such  as  Ku  Phaya  Shwegugy.   The  pagodas  built  in  the  reign  of  King   Kyanzittha  were  a  change  in  the  ar-­ chitecture  of  the  area;;  most  of  them   were  Burmese  in  style.                                

In the   12th   and   13th   centuries,   Bagan  became  a  truly  cosmopolitan   centre   of   Buddhist   studies,   attract-­ ing  monks  from  as  far  as  India,  Sri   Lanka  as,  Thai  and  Khmer.  In  1287,   the   kingdom   fell   to   the   Mongols,   after  refusing  to  pay  tribute  to  Kublai   Khan.  The  city  therefore  declined  as   a   political   centre,   but   continued   to   ÀRXULVKDVDSODFHRI%XGGKLVWVFKRO-­ arship;;  there  was  also  the  period  of   Lanna  establishment  in  1296.   To   admire   the   many   thousand   pagodas  of  the  previous  great  empire   is  something  special  for  tourists,  and   a   must   when   visiting   Bagan.   The   ruins  feature  Mon  architecture,  and   the  fusion  of  Mon  and  Burma  styles   is  apparent  in  many  pagodas.   After   the   earthquake   in   1975,   only   2,217   pagodas   remained   in   Bagan.  Thus,  in  order  to  preserve  the   original  pagodas,  only  horse-­driven   carriages  are  allowed  to  travel  among   the  pagodas.  Another  excellent  activ-­ ity  is  to  admire  the  sunset  above  the   Irrawady   River   where   you   can   see   the   gorgeous   scene   of   a   thousand   pagodas   from   a   bird’s   eye   view   on   the  Shwe  Modo  Pagoda.

 ミャンマーの旅と言えば、 ヤンゴンのシュエダゴンパ ゴダが頭に浮かぶ。仏の髪の遺物の8個が含まれてい るこの黄金パゴダだけでなく、モンのプラタットインケ ウンやキャイカティオパゴダは特に戌年生まれの方に は必見の場所である。 仏教国、 ミャンマーへいつ仏教が 伝来したかはさだかではないが、 シュエダゴンパゴダ は2500年前に当時の国王が建てた、仏教初期の証拠 とも言える。バガン王国(1044年∼1287年)はミャンマ ーの歴史の中で最初の王朝で、 国の乾燥地帯に位置し ていた。王朝はインドと中国南部の間の貿易ルートで あり、イギリスは、貿易の税金から利益を得ていた。パ ガンの最も華やかな時代はキャンジタ国王の時代で 4百万ものパゴダが構築されたといわれる。12-13世 紀には仏教研究の国際的中心地となり、インドやスリ ランカなどの国からも多くの学生が集まった。1975年 の地震の後、バガンには2,217のパゴダが残っている。

How to get there? From Chiang Mai, tourists can travel to Yangon by Air Bagan, taking about 1 hour, and from there on to Bagan in only 30 minutes. For more information, contact Air Bagan, 0 5328 4895-6 or www.airbagan.com.

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CULTURE . 文化 Text: Passport to Suvannaphoum Photo: Apple Tree

PRIOR to  the  ART   of  PRINTING

印刷技術導入の前―古代タイの本

Phra bot shown the Jakata tales at the lounge of Rachamankha Hotel


CULTURE

Dine at   Rachamankha   Hotel,     Chiang   Mai,   you   are   sure   to   be     impressed  by  the  decorative  pictures   around  the  restaurant.  Parts  of  ancient   Thai  books  made  of  tree  pulp  known   as  ‘samut  koi’  (‘koi’  is  the  name  of  the   name  of  the  tree’s  pulp  which  is  used   to  make  the  book  and  ‘samut’  means   book)  are  situated  on  the  white  walls,   and   at   the   end   of   the   restaurant   is   located  a  large  picture  of  19th  century   illustrations  of  the  zodiac.     Khun  Rooj  Changkratul,  the  owner   of   Rachamankha   Hotel,   owns   these   pictures   and   has   a   private   collection   of  over  a  hundred  pieces.   He   Rooj   said   that   the   majority   of   his   samut   koi   collection   dates   from   the   19th   century,   made   in   early     Rattanakosin  district.  Samut  koi  is  the   ancient   Thai   book   containing   Jakata   fables,  Buddhist  scriptures  and  general   textbooks.  The  books  with  long  folded   paper  contained  colorful  illustrations,   which   attracted   him   when   he   was   young.   In   Lanna,   people   call   these   ancient   books   ‘pup   sa’   according   to   its   material   made   of   sa   tree   (while   pup   is   the   Lanna   word   for   ‘fold’).   Pup  sa  books  were  written  in  Lanna   languages   and   most   of   them   were   without   illustrations.   He   informed   that  the  illustrations  in  ‘samut  koi’  are     detailed  and  of  a  high  standard  while  

the pictures   in   the   ‘pup   sa’   are   in   folk  style,  each  with  its  own  charming   character.   The   prominent   set   of   Khun   Rooj’s   ‘samut   koi’   collection   is  the  story  of  Phra  Malai  with  Khmer     alphabet  that  are  shown  in  the  hotel’s     restaurant. At   the   hotel’s   lounge   near   the   lawn,   there   are   also   the   set   of   phra   bot  pictures.  Phra  bot  is  a  long  cloth   adorned   with   the   Lord   Buddha’s     picture  used  when  monks  pray.  Phra   bot  shown  in  Rachamankha  Hotel  is   from   the   Jakata   tales   (the   10   rebirth   stories   of   the   Lord   Buddha   before   becoming  the  Lord  Buddha).   The  painting  techniques  of  samut   koi   and   phra   bot   are   same   as   the     murals   in   temples.   Also,   both   the   murals   and   ancient   books   used   color   powder   for   the   main   painting.     Historians   assume   that   the   murals   were  created  to  broadcast  the  Buddhist     stories   to   many   people,   as   only   a     handful  of  books  were  made  and  read   only  by  educated  people.     The  production  of  samut  koi  and   pup  sa  faded  during  the  reign  of  Rama   V  when  the  technology  of  photograph-­ ing,  paper  industry  and  printing  were   introduced   in   Thailand.   They   were   initially   considered   as   unimportant,   but  are  now  held  in  high  regard  and   considered  very  valuable.  

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ラチャマンカホテルにはオーナーのコレクション であるパルプの木でできた古代タイの絵が多く飾ら れている。ただのアンティークと思う人もいるが、絵 には貴重な歴史的背景があり教科書にもなりうる。 彼の主なコレクションはジャカタ物語や仏教に基づ くもので、 カマー文字で書かれており、バーリ語で読 まれるため、読める人は少ない。彼は他にも多くの古 代ミャンマーの本のコレクションも持つ。

Above: The ancient book of Burma, or the Burmese samut koi Below: Khun Rooj Changkratul, the owner of Rachamankha Hotel, with a big painting of zodiac as the background


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FEATURE . 牚集 Text: Passport to Suvannaphoum Photo: Photo: Apple Tree

Ramayana Mural at Wat Phra Si Rattana Satsadaram The mural painting of Ramayana story which is the battle between Rama with Ravana is one of the most famous paintings in Thailand. This picture was created by Lert Puangphradet, the royal painter, in 1937.


FEATURE

STORIES BEHIND  THE  WALLS   The  Journey  of  Mural  Paintings   壁の背後にあるストーリー ラナの壁画の旅

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FEATURE

The  Journey  of  Mural  Paintings   ăƒŠăƒŠă ŽĺŁ ç”ťă Žć—…

The  red  ochre  paintings  of  humans  hunting  huge   animals  found  in  a  cave  at  Grotte  Chauvet,  France,   DUHEHOLHYHGWREHPDQœV¿UVWHYHUSDLQWLQJVPDGH about  32,000  years  ago. Prehistoric   men   may   have   painted   animals   to   catch  their  souls  to  hunt  them  more  easily  or  the  paint-­ ings  may  represent  an  animistic  vision  and  homage   to   their   surrounding   nature.   If   there   is   meaning   to   the  paintings,  it  remains  unknown.  The  caves  were   not  in  an  inhabited  area,  so  they  may  have  been  used   for  seasonal  rituals.  Similar  mysteries  surround  the   ancient  Lanna  murals  painted  500  years  ago  inside   the   chedi   (pagoda)   of   Wat   U-­mong,   which   people   were  unaware  of  until  the  pagoda  was  accidentally   broken.  It  was  with  that  unexpected  act,  the  stories   of  murals  began.

Temple  Art 㠊寺㠎中㠎芸襓 Architecture  and  design  of  temples  in  Thailand   DUH LQÀXHQFHG E\ +LQGX DQG %XGGKLVW EHOLHIV DV are  the  elaborate  paintings  on  the  internal  walls.  As   WKHVFULSWXUHVRI7KHUDYDGD%XGGKLVWVZHUHLQ3DOL   language,   which   could   only   be   understood   by   a     handful   of   learned   individuals,   the   Thai   murals   were   created   to   ensure   easy   recognition   of   stories   and   facilitate   the   understanding   of   history   and     morality.  Therefore  the  subject  matter  in  the  murals  is     GHSLFWLRQV IURP WKH OLIH RI WKH %XGGKD DQG VWRULHV IURP WKH -DNDWD 7DOHV$OVR GHSLFWHG DUH %XGGKLVW concepts   of   cosmology   dealing   with   the   universe,   the  nature  of  time  and  the  concept  of  rebirth.     Thai  mural  temple  paintings  are  highly  stylistic   DQG ORWV RI V\PEROV DUH XVHG %DVLFDOO\ WKH DUWLVWV UHQGHU FHUWDLQ VFHQHV IURP WKH OLIH RI WKH %XGGKD and  the  Jatakas;͞  while  the  details  may  differ,  scenes   are  similar  in  different  temples.  The  characters  may   well  confuse  the  meaning  of  the  paintings,  but  Thai     %XGGKLVWV FDQ UHFRJQL]H WKH GLIIHUHQW VFHQHV E\   looking   for   key   elements   in   the   compositions.   For     example,  the  scene  in  the  picture  2  (page  33)  depicts   WKH RFHDQ ZLWK D ¿VK DQG D VKLSZUHFN 7KLV ZLOO   identify  the  scene  as  part  of  Mahajanaka  Jataka.

â€ƒä¸–ç•Œă §ĺˆ?ă‚ ă Śçľľă ŒčŚ‹ă ¤ă ‹ă Łă &#x;㠎㠯万ĺ?ƒĺš´ĺ‰?ă ă ¨ă •ă‚Œă‚‹ă€‚ ăƒ•ăƒŠăƒłă‚š ă Žă‚°ăƒ­ăƒƒăƒ†ă‚ˇăƒ§ăƒźă šă Žć´žçŞ&#x;㠍辤㠄靄ĺœ&#x;ă Ťç‹Šă‚Šă Žçľľă Œć??ă ‹ă‚Œă Śă „ă‚‹ă€‚ĺ…ˆĺ?˛ ć™‚äťŁă Žäşşă€…ă Žçľľă Œă Šă Žă‚ˆă †ă Şć„?ĺ‘łă‚’ćŒ ă ¤ă ‹ă Żă‚?ă ‹ă Łă Śă „ă Şă „ă Œă€ ć´žçŞ&#x;ă Ż 季節㠎儀ĺź?ă Ťä˝żç”¨ă •ă‚Œă Śă „ă &#x;ă ¨čŚ‹ă‚‰ă‚Œă‚‹ă€‚ ă “ă Žč€ƒă ˆă Żă Şă œăƒŠăƒŠă Žäşşă€…ă Œ ç´„ďź•ďź?ďź?ĺš´ĺ‰?ă Ťăƒ‘ă‚´ăƒ€ă Žä¸­ă ŤĺŁ ç”ťă‚’ć??ă „ă &#x;㠨㠄㠆質ĺ•?ă ¨ĺ?Œă ˜ă §ă ‚ă‚‹ă€‚ăƒ‘ ă‚´ăƒ€ă Œäş‹ć•…ă §ĺŁŠă‚Œă Śă —ă žă †ă žă §ă€ ĺŁ ç”ťă Žç‰ŠčŞžă Żĺ§‹ă žă‚‰ă Şă ‹ă Łă &#x;。

3DQXSRQJ/DRKDVRPWKH+HDGRI7KDL$UWV'HSDUW-­ ment,  the  Faculty  of  Fine  Arts,  Chiang  Mai  University,   said  that  murals  are  few  and  far  between,  and  people  can   VHHWKHPRQO\RQWHPSOHZDOOV.LQJVDOVRLQĂ€XHQFHG the  content  of  the  murals  in  each  temple,  which  is  why   images  of  kings  are  featured  in  addition  to  illustrations   RIWKHVWRULHVRI-DNDWD7DOHVRU7UDL%KXPL)URPWKH Ayutthaya   until   the   Rattanakosin   era   in   the   city   of     %DQJNRN H[FHOOHQW WUDGLWLRQDO PXUDO SDLQWLQJV ZHUH created,   especially   during   the   period   of   King   Rama   I  –  King  Rama  III,  which  had  concrete  human  stories   EHIRUH WKHQ WKH\ ZHUH FUHDWHG LQ %XGGKLVW DEVWUDFW   images  of  mythologies  and  fables).  Until  King  Rama   IV,   and   with   western   influence,   the   techniques   of     PXUDOVFKDQJHGDQGPRVWZHUHLQ'ZLWKWKHDGGLWLRQ of   western   characters   and   architecture   in   the   murals.   After  King  Rama  IV,  technology  of  printing  came  about   and  Thai  people  were  educated  by  western  art  schools,   so  the  forms  of  murals  therefore  changed  again.           ă‚żă‚¤ă Žă ŠĺŻşă ŻĺťşçŻ‰ă‚„čŠ¸čĄ“ă Şă Šă€ ăƒ’ăƒłăƒ‰ă‚Ľăƒźć•™ă ‹ă‚‰ă Žĺ˝ąé&#x;żă‚’ĺ?—ă ‘ă Śă „ る。 ă žă &#x;çľŒĺ…¸ă Żăƒ?ăƒźăƒŞčŞžă §ć›¸ă ‹ă‚Œă Śă „ă‚‹ă &#x;゠〠ă ?ă‚Œă‚’čŞ­ă‚ ă‚‹äşşă Żĺ°‘ă Ş ă „ă€‚ĺŁ ç”ťă Żĺ¤šă ?ă Žäşşă ŒčŚłă Ść­´ĺ?˛ă‚„ăƒ˘ăƒŠăƒŤă Œç?†č§Łă §ă ?ă‚‹ă‚ˆă †ă Ťă ¨ć??ă ‹ă‚Œ ă &#x;ă€‚ç‰ŠčŞžă Żă ŠĺŻşă Ťă‚ˆă Łă Śé •ă †ă Œă€ ă Šă‚Œă‚‚ă‚šă‚żă‚¤ăƒŞă‚šăƒ†ă‚Łăƒƒă‚Żă §ă ‚ă‚‹ă€‚ăƒ ă‚§ ăƒłăƒžă‚¤ĺ¤§ĺ­Śă ŽčŠ¸čĄ“ĺ­Śç§‘ć•™ćŽˆă Żă€ ĺ›˝çŽ‹ă &#x;ă Ąă ŒĺŁ ç”ťă Ťĺ¤§ă ?ă ?é–˘ă‚?㠣㠌㠊り〠ă ?ă‚Œă žă‚Œă Œč‡ŞčşŤă‚’čąĄĺž´ă ™ă‚‹ĺŻşă€ ĺŁ ç”ťă‚’ä˝œă Łă &#x;㠨㠄㠆。手法㠯輿洋技襓㠎 役é&#x;żă Ťă‚ˆă‚Šĺ¤‰ĺŒ–ă —ă Śă ?㠌㠄る。


FEATURE

Traditional  Mural   Characteristics

Captions 1. The first mural painting in the world from around 32,000 years ago and found at a cave in Grotte Chauvet, France (information from www.wikipedia.com) 2. The mural painting of Mahajanaka Jakata (or Maha Chanok in Thai), found in Wat King Kaew, Rachaburi province. 3. The mural painting of Hanuman hiding the palace of Rama, found in Wat Phra Si Rattana Maha Satsadaram or Wat Phra Kaew in the Royal Palace.

The  traditional  Thai  murals  contain  many  small,   DOPRVWWLQ\LQGLYLGXDOVFHQHVODQGVFDSHVDQG¿JXUHV in   contrast   to   the   large   wall   space   on   which   they   DUH SDLQWHG 7KH REMHFWV DUH VW\OL]HG WKURXJKRXW Thailand  and  are  two  dimensional  in  form;͞  that  is   there  is  no  perspective  of  dimension  as  in  European   SDLQWLQJV7KHUHDUHDOVRFRQWLQXRXVDQGÀRZLQJVHWV of  panoramas  of  places,  palaces,  towns,  events  and   country  landscapes  with  real  and  mythical  people  or   FUHDWXUHV+RZHYHUDOOSDQRUDPDVZKHWKHUSDLQWHG above  the  head  of  the  viewer,  at  the  same  level  or   QHDUHUWKHÀRRUDUHSDLQWHGIURPDSHUVSHFWLYHWKDW the  viewer  is  high  above,  as  if  in  the  sky  looking   down  or  from  a  distance.  Suggested  temples  to  see   VXFKPXUDOVLQ%DQJNRNLQFOXGH:DW3KUD.DHZLQ WKH5R\DO3DODFH:DW6XWKDWDQG:DW'XVLW

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FEATURE

Classic Lanna  Murals %OHQGLQJ/DQQD5DFHV 古代ラナの壁画 古代ラナの壁画

Viharn Lai Kham, Wat Phra Singh The mural painting of Prince Sang Tong, the ancient tale, found in Viharn Lai Kham of Wat Phra Singh, Chiang Mai. This mural was created by Chinese artist who was influenced by the art in the Royal Palace in Bangkok. This mural was expected to be written around the 19th centure at the nearly time of Wat Buak Krok Luang.


FEATURE What  makes   Lanna   murals   different   from   those   in     %DQJNRNLVWKHVXSSRUWIURPWKH5R\DO3DODFH:KLOHWKH kings  of  Siam  contracted  painters  to  create  murals,  Lanna   murals  were  made  by  locals,  ensuring  they  have  their  own   characteristics,  and  are  unique  and  beautiful. The   murals   show   how   ancient   Lanna   people   lived   in   t h e   p r e v i o u s   t i m e ,   h o w   t h e y   d r e s s e d   a n d   t h e     architecture.   Many   murals   also   show   the   influence   of     %XUPHVH &KLQHVH DQG :HVWHUQHUV ZKR FDPH WR /DQQD   hundreds  of  years  ago. One  of  the  oldest  story-­telling  Lanna  mural  paintings  is   at  Viharn  Nam  Taem  in  Wat  Phrathat  Lampang  Luang,   Lampang   province,   where   the   diversity   of   craftsmanship   DQG WKH EHDXWLIXO GHWDLO GHÂżQHV WKH JRUJHRXV /DQQD HUD   Established  around  1501,  Viharn   Nam  Taem   is   located  in   the  north  of  the  pagoda,  with  is  the  murals  on  the  wooden   ZDOOV7KH\IHDWXUHWZRVHFWLRQVÂżUVWLVWKHVWRU\RIWKH,QGUD God,  and  the  second  is  the  story  of  Samavadee,  the  woman   in  Jakata  tales,  detailing  the  results  of  her  sin.   The  murals’  revolution  in  Lanna  was  dropped  for  over   \HDUVGXHWRLWVFRORQL]DWLRQE\%XUPD'XULQJWKLVWLPH %XUPHVHDUWDQGDUFKLWHFWXUHLQĂ€XHQFHG/DQQDDUWLVWVDQG   evidence   of   the   mix   of   cultures   is   found   in   the   murals   paintings   inside   Wat   Buak   Krok   Luang     (the   right   picture),Chiang  Mai,  dated  from  the  end  of  19th  century. 7KH PXUDOV LQ:DW %XDN .URN /XDQJ WHOO  RI WKH  WDOHVRIWKH/RUG%XGGKDÂśVIRUPHUELUWKDQGRWKHU%XGGKLVW fables  on  the  14  walls  inside  the  temple.  Created  by  Tai  Yai   artists   who   lived   in   Lanna,   the   murals   have   vivid   colors   like   the   impressionist   works   of  Van   Gogh.   It   is   clear   that   PDQ\YLOODJHUVÂśFRVWXPHVLQWKHPXUDOVZHUHLQĂ€XHQFHGE\ WKH%XUPHVHHVSHFLDOO\WKHNLQJVZKRLQVRPHSLFWXUHV DUHGUHVVHGOLNHWKH%XUPHVHNLQJVDQGWKHSDODFHVDUHRI   %XUPHVH DUFKLWHFWXUH KRZHYHU WKH XWLOLWLHV DUH GLVWLQFWO\ Lanna.  Another   prominent   point   of   the   murals   is   that   the   artists  separated  each  story  with  a  frame.   â€ƒăƒŠăƒŠĺŁ ç”ťă ¨ăƒ?ăƒłă‚łă‚Żă ŽĺŁ ç”ťă ¨ă Žé •ă „ă Żă€ çŽ‹ĺŽŽă ‹ă‚‰ă Žă‚ľăƒ?ăƒźăƒˆă §ă ‚ă‚‹ă€‚ ă‚ˇă‚˘ăƒ  㠎国王㠯ĺ?Œă ˜ă‚ˆă †ă Ťĺ„Şç§€ă Şç”ťĺŽśă‚’探㠗ă &#x;ă Œă€ ăƒŠăƒŠă Žç”ťĺŽśă Žă ťă †ă Œć°‘čĄ†çš„ă §ă ‚ ă Łă &#x;ă &#x;ă‚ ă€ ăƒŠăƒŠă ŽĺŁ ç”ťă ŻăƒŚăƒ‹ăƒźă‚Żă §çžŽă —ă „ă€‚ĺŁ ç”ťă ŻăƒŠăƒŠă Žäşşă€…ă Žç”&#x;ć´ťă‚„ćœ?装〠ä˝?ĺŽ…ă ŽĺťşçŻ‰ć§˜ĺź?㠪㠊を襨㠗㠌㠄る。㠞ă &#x;何癞嚴もĺ‰?ă Žăƒ&#x;ăƒŁăƒłăƒžăƒźă‚„ä¸­ĺ›˝ă€ čĽż 洋㠋ら㠎役é&#x;żă‚‚čŚ‹ă‚‰ă‚Œă‚‹ă€‚ â€ƒăƒŠăƒŠă §ćœ€ă‚‚ĺ?¤ă „ĺŁ ç”ťă ŻăƒŠăƒłăƒ‘ăƒźăƒłă Ťă ‚ă‚‹ăƒ—ăƒŠă‚żăƒƒăƒˆăƒŠăƒłăƒ‘ăƒźăƒłăƒŤă‚˘ăƒłĺŻşă Ž ăƒ“ăƒ?ăƒźăƒłăƒŠăƒ ă‚żăƒ ă Ťă ‚ă‚‹ă€‚ďź‘ďź•ďź?ďź‘ĺš´ă Ťăƒ‘ă‚´ă‚żă ŽĺŒ—ĺ ´ă Ťč¨­çŤ‹ă •ă‚Œă€ ďź’ă ¤ă Žă‚ť ă‚Żă‚ˇăƒ§ăƒłă §ĺŁ ç”ťă Żć§‹ćˆ?ă •ă‚Œă Śă „ă‚‹ă€‚ă ˛ă ¨ă ¤ă Żă‚¤ăƒłăƒ‰ăƒŠçĽžă Žç‰ŠčŞžă §ă‚‚ă †ă ˛ă ¨ă ¤ 㠯罪㠎çľ?ćžœă‚’ć°‘čĄ†ă Ťäź?ă ˆă‚‹ă‚¸ăƒŁă‚Ťă‚żç‰ŠčŞžă Žă ˛ă ¨ă ¤ă §ă ‚ă‚‹ă€‚ĺŁ ç”ťă Żäť?ć•™ĺŻ“čŠąă   㠑㠧㠪ă ?ă€ ăƒŠăƒŠă Žäşşă€…ă Žćœ?čŁ…ć–‡ĺŒ–ă Œć??ă ‹ă‚Œă Śă Šă‚Šă€ éšŽç´šă Ťă‚ˆă‚‹ćœ?čŁ…ă Žé •ă „ă Œ čŚ‹ă‚‰ă‚Œă‚‹ă€‚ăƒ ă‚§ăƒłăƒžă‚¤ă Žăƒ–ă‚˘ăƒƒă‚Żăƒ­ăƒƒă‚ŻăƒŤă‚˘ăƒłĺŻşă ŽĺŁ ç”ťă Ťă Żäť?陀㠎ĺ‰?㠎誕ç”&#x; 牊語芹やă ?ă Žäť–ă Žç‰ŠčŞžă Œďź‘ďź”ćžšă ŽĺŁ ă Ťć??ă ‹ă‚Œă Śă „ă‚‹ă€‚ĺŁ ç”ťă Żă€ ăƒ´ă‚Ąăƒłă‚´ăƒƒ ăƒ›ă Žĺ?°čąĄć´žă Žä˝œĺ“ ă Žă‚ˆă †ă ŤéŽŽă‚„ă ‹ă Şč‰˛ă §ć??ă ‹ă‚Œă Śă Šă‚Šă€ ă‚¨ăƒ?ăƒŤă‚Žăƒƒă‚ˇăƒĽă §äť– ă Žă Šă ŽĺŁ ç”ťă ¨ă‚‚é •ă †ă€‚äşşç‰Šă Žćœ?čŁ…ă Żć˜Žă‚‰ă ‹ă Ťăƒ&#x;ăƒŁăƒłăƒžăƒźă Žĺ˝ąé&#x;żă‚’ĺ?—ă ‘ă Śă „ă‚‹ă “ ă ¨ă Œă‚?㠋り〠国王もăƒ&#x;ăƒŁăƒłăƒžăƒźă ŽçŽ‹ă ¨ĺ?Œă ˜ă‚ˆă †ă Şćœ?装を㠗㠌㠄る。 ă “ă Žă ŠĺŻşă ŽĺŁ ç”ťă Żă‚ŻăƒŠăƒƒă‚ˇăƒƒă‚Żă §ă Żă Şă „ă Œă€ ďź‘ďź?ďź?嚴䝼上もĺ‰?ă Žăƒ&#x;ăƒŁăƒłăƒžăƒźă ¨ăƒŠăƒŠă Žčž?ĺ?ˆă • ă‚Œă &#x;ă€ ăƒŚăƒ‹ăƒźă‚Żă §ă‚ŞăƒŞă‚¸ăƒŠăƒŤă Şä˝œĺ“ ă §ă ‚ă‚‹ă€‚

Murals in Tunnels @ Wat U-mong Temple The oldest mural paintings found in the north of Thailand was located at Wat U-mong behind Chiang Mai University. Thought to be created circa 15th century, there are two prominent murals inside the stupa of the pagoda and inside the tunnels. A red powder color is used in the background, with green, white and black used to make the patterns of flowers, lotus and birds. However, it’s with regret that the murals at Wat U-mong have faded over time and there is nothing now on the walls. Surachai Jongjit-Ngam, a lecturer and researcher from the Department of Thai Arts, Fine Arts Faculty, Chiang Mai University, has instigated a project to research and duplicate the lost murals, and imitations of the old murals pictures can be seen on the exhibition board in the tunnels. For more information about Wat U-mong’s mural paintings project, click www.umongpainting.com.

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FEATURE

TMurals   

he  Era  of  'LYHUVH ĺŁ ç”ťă Žĺ¤šć§˜ć€§ă Žć™‚äťŁ

After  the  reign  of  King  Mongkut,  or  Rama  IV,  the  pattern  of   PXUDOSDLQWLQJVGLYHUVLÂżHG'XULQJWKH5DPD,9HUDWKHVXSSRUW from  the  royal  palace  meant  painters  focused  on  creating  scenes   LQ'ZKLOHWKHFRQWHQWFHQWHUHGRQWKHFRUHRI%XGGKLVPPRUH than  the  Jakata  tales,  which  were  previously  popular.  When  King   Chulalongkorn,  or  Rama  V,  came  to  the  throne,  the  painting  style   GLGQRWFKDQJHPXFK+RZHYHUPXUDOVFKDQJHGGUDPDWLFDOO\DV western  art  schools  began  to  open  in  Thailand  that  introduced     different  painting  techniques.  The  prominent  period  of  change   was   when   the   printing   business   came   to   the   country,   and   the   SLFWXUHV E\ 6RU 'KDPPD\RW ZHUH SULQWHG 6RU 'KDPPD\RW is   the   name   of   the   monk’s   utensil   shop   near   Giant   Swing   in     %DQJNRNZKHUHDVHULHVRI%XGGKDVWRULHVÂśRQSULQWHGSLFWXUHV were  distributed.  With  a  realistic  style  of  painting,  the  pictures   ZHUH UHSURGXFHG LQ WKH IRUP RI PXUDO SDLQWLQJV LQ OLIHVL]H SURSRUWLRQV VHHWKHH[DPSOHDW:DW6XDQ'RN          â€ƒăƒ˘ăƒłă‚ŻăƒƒăƒˆçŽ‹ă€ ăƒŠăƒžçŽ‹ďź”ä¸–ă Žć™‚äťŁă ŽĺžŒă ‹ă‚‰ă€ ĺŁ ç”ťă Ťĺ¤šć§˜ć€§ă Œă §ă Śă ?㠌〠3Dă §ă‚¸ăƒŁă‚Ť ă‚żç‰ŠčŞžă‚ˆă‚Šă‚‚äť?ć•™ă Žć ¸ĺżƒă‚’čĄ¨ă ™ă‚‚ă Žă ¸ă ¨ĺ¤‰ĺŒ–ă —ă &#x;。 ă‚żă‚¤ă ŤčĽżć´‹ă Žă‚˘ăƒźăƒˆă‚šă‚ŻăƒźăƒŤă Œ ă §ă ?㠌䝼ć?Ľă€ 多ă ?ă ŽĺŁ ç”ťă Žă‚šă‚żă‚¤ăƒŤă Œĺ°Žĺ…Ľă •ă‚Œă€ ĺ?°ĺˆˇäş‹ćĽ­ă Žĺ°Žĺ…Ľă §ĺ¤šă ?ă Žäť?教牊語 ă‚„ĺƒ§äžśă ŽĺŽ&#x;牊大㠎写çœ&#x;ă Œĺ?°ĺˆˇă •ă‚Œă &#x;。 ďźˆă‚šăƒŻăƒłăƒ‰ăƒƒă‚ŻĺŻşă Ťäž‹ă Œă ‚ă‚‹ă€‚ďź‰

Captions 1. The mural at Wat Sri Suphant, Wua Lai - Chiang Mai, shows modern graphics in the traditional contents of the zodiac. Also, the murals below were created by silver carving which is a unique characteristic of the Wua Lai community. 2. Painting of Sor Dhammayot which was produced by a print making technique, and then was modelled as the murals in the following time. 3. The mural painting in stencil technique at Wat Chiang Man. Stencil is also a new technique of mural that Prof. Vithi Panichphant created the story of Phraya Mangrai to the viharn of the temple. 4. The humor of mural painter in Wat Chai Mongkol. The picture shows Add Carabao, the famous folk singer, visiting a religious ceremony in Chiang Mai


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TRAVEL FEATURE . 旅行特集 Text : Passport to Suvannaphoum Photo: ABHAROOCHA, Aripai Leangphet

The famous mural painting of a Lanna man whispering to a woman in Wat Phumin, Nan province


TRAVEL FEATURE

STORIES  OF EASTERN  LANNA A  Worthwhile  trip  to  see  Mural  Paintings  in  Nan

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he  famous  mural  painting  of  a   Lanna  man  whispering  to  a  woman   is   an   iconic   Lanna   image   found   on   t-­shirts,  posters  and  souvenirs  around   WRZQLQWKH1LJKW%D]DDUDQG6XQGD\ Walking  Street.  This  famous  painting   is   not   originally   from   Chiang   Mai.   7R ¿QG LW D  KRXU URDG WULS PXVW be   taken   from   Chiang   Mai   to   Nan   province. N a n   i s   c r a d l e d   i n   a   l u s h     valley  roughly  320  kilometers  east  of     Chiang  Mai  near  the  far  north-­eastern   border   with   Laos.   Little   visited   by   mainstream  tourism,  it  does,  however,   have  mountainous  wildernesses,  wild   rivers  and  lovely  rural  scenery  As  its   location  is  remote  the  province  has  its   own  unique  cultural  character,  whilst   its   nature   attractions   are   numerous   and  well  worth  checking  out.

 This  sleepy  town  was  the  centre   of   an   independent   little   kingdom   right  up  to  the  turn  of  the  20th  century   and  has  some  ancient  sites.  Nan  is  a   typically  unhurried  provincial  town   with  empty  streets  and  a  surprising   collection   of   notable   temples   with   impressive  legacies.   At  the  center  of  downtown  Nan,   DVWURQJ%XGGKLVWEDVHGFLW\LVVLWX-­ ated  Wat  Phumin.  The  lawn  in  front   of  the  temple  is  open  to  the  public,   used   as   a   meeting   point   by  tourists   and  local  residents.  The  most  famous   temple   in   Nan   is   renowned   for   its   cruciform   ubosot   which   was   con-­ VWUXFWHGLQDQGUHVWRUHGGXULQJ WKHUHLJQRI$QDQWD9RUD5LWWKL'HW   ,W LV WKH RQO\ WHPSOH built   as   if   it   were   on   the   back   of   2   Nagas  (immense  snakes).  Each  of  the  

four  entrances  is  preceded  by  a  small   FRUULGRUWRSSHGE\D¿QHO\GHFRUDWHG point   shaped   structure   (underlining   the   royal   origin   of   the   temple)   and   is   equipped   with   smoothly   carved   doors;͞   with   Chinese   demon   guards   LQWKH(DVWÀRZHUVLQWKH1RUWKDQG forest  life  motives  in  the  Lanna  style   in  the  West  and  South. The  temple’s  interior  is  certainly   impressive  and  an  excellent  example   of  Tai  Lue  architecture.  The  structure   of  the  roof  is  supported  by  12  teak   pillars  decorated  with  gold  on  lacquer   and  elephants  motives;͞  the  ceiling  is   DOVR¿QHO\GHFRUDWHG7KHÀRZHUHG altar   resting   in   the   center   of   the   WHPSOHVXSSRUWVIRXU%XGGKDVRIWKH   Sukhothai   style,   facing   in   four     directions.  The  shape  of  the  ears  and   QRVHVKRZVD/DRLQÀXHQFH

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TRAVEL FEATURE

WKLOH WKH VSLULWXDO %XGGKLVW story  of  Nan  is  located  at  the  center   of  the  temple  via  the  exquisite  pillar,   the   stories   of   down-­to-­earth   Nan   locals  are  placed  on  the  wall.  Well   preserved   murals   of   great   value   illustrating   the   Khattana   Kumara   Jakata  are  on  the  Northern  wall  and   the  Nimi  Jatakas  are  on  the  Western   wall  as  well  as  scenes  of  the  local   life   of   the   time   when   they   were   painted  by  Thai  Lue  artists  during   the  restoration  of  the  temple  at  the   end  of  the  19th  century.  The  mural   paintings   illustrate   the   evidences   of   local   lives   in   the   past;͞   a   man   visiting  a  woman’s  house,  women   spinning   cotton   thread,   hill   tribe   people   containing   wild   products   for   bartering   with   people   in   the   town  and  much  more.  In  the  paint-­ LQJVZHFDQ¿QGZRPHQZHDULQJ phasin   (wrap-­around   skirt)   in   the   traditional  patterns  which  are  pha-­ sin  lai  nam  and  phasin  tin  jok;͞  the   unique  patterns  of  Tai  Lue.              

Europeans  can  even  be  noticed:  a  reference  to  the  arrival  of  the  French  to   whom  the  East  of  the  Nan  valley  area  was  yielded  in  1893.  The  two  most  fa-­ mous  scenes  are  of  greater  dimensions  than  the  majority  of  the  other  paintings:   a  man  whispering  to  the  ear  of  a  woman  (on  the  Southern  side  of  the  Western   door)  and  the  portrait  painted  on  the  side  of  the  Southern  door,  which  could   EH.LQJ&KDR$QDQWD9RUD5LWWKL'HW7KHODUJHSDLQWLQJVRQHDFKVLGHRIWKH PDLQHQWUDQFHVKRZD&KLQHVHLQÀXHQFHZKLFKFDQEHH[SODLQHGE\WKHRULJLQV of  the  Thai  Lue  people.

Above: The mural inside Wat Phumin shows westerners came to Lanna in the late 18th century Below: The charming Buddha images in the ubosot of Wat Phumin


TRAVEL FEATURE

The  style  is  rather  distinctive  and  quite  removed  from   the  traditional  style  of  temple  paintings  in  Thailand.  They   somewhat  resemble  the  style  of  the  murals  of  Wat  Phra   Singh  Temple  in  Chiang  Mai.  The  setting  of  the  murals  at   Wat  Phumin  however,  is  that  of  the  culture  and  everyday   life  of  the  Tai  Lue  people.   If  you  are  impressed  by  these  mural  stories,  we  recom-­ mend  heading  40km  to  the  north  of  the  city  to  Wat  Nong   %XDLQ7KD:DQJ3KDGLVWULFWWKHPXUDOVKHUHDUHYHU\ much  like  those  housed  in  Wat  Phumin.   Wat  Nong  Bua  was  also  constructed  by  Tai  Lue  peo-­ SOHLQDQGWKHPXUDOSDLQWLQJVLQWKLVWHPSOHZHUH possibly   made   by   the   same   artists   that   worked   on  Wat   3KXPLQ7KHYLOODJHVXUURXQGLQJ1RQJ%XDLVLQKDELWHG by  Tai  Lue  people  who  emigrated  from  the  Sipsongpanna   UHJLRQRIVRXWKHUQ<XQQDQLQ1XPHURXV7DL/XH people  came  to  inhabit  the  Nan  valley  after  Kawila,  a  lo-­ cal  ruler  in  the  late  18th  century,  raided  southern  Yunnan   areas  to  repopulate  the  eastern  regions  of  Lanna  Tai.  To-­ day,  the  village  continues  to  retain  much  of  its  traditional   culture,  including  distinctive  Tai  Lue  textiles  which  are   produced  by  locals.      

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â&#x20AC;&#x192;ă&#x192;Šă&#x192;&#x160;ć&#x2122;&#x201A;䝣㠎ç&#x201D;ˇć&#x20AC;§ă &#x152;弳ć&#x20AC;§ă Ťč&#x20AC;łć&#x2030;&#x201C;ă Ąă &#x2014;ă Śă &#x201E;ă&#x201A;&#x2039;ć&#x153;&#x2030;ĺ??ă Şçľľă Żă&#x20AC; ă&#x192;&#x160;ă&#x192;źă&#x192;łă Ťç&#x201D;ąć?Ľă &#x2122; ă&#x201A;&#x2039;ă&#x20AC;&#x201A;ă&#x192; ă&#x201A;§ă&#x192;łă&#x192;&#x17E;ă&#x201A;¤ă &#x2039;ă&#x201A;&#x2030;ďź&#x201C;ďź&#x2019;ďź?ă&#x201A;­ă&#x192;­ć?ąă ¸ă&#x20AC; ă&#x192;Šă&#x201A;Şă&#x201A;šă ¨ă Žĺ&#x203A;˝ĺ˘&#x192;čż&#x2018;ă ?ă Ťă &#x201A;ă&#x201A;&#x2039;é?&#x2122;ă &#x2039;ă Şă &#x201C; ă Žç&#x201D;şă Ťă Żă&#x20AC; ă&#x192;Śă&#x192;&#x2039;ă&#x192;źă&#x201A;Żă Şć&#x2013;&#x2021;ĺ&#x152;&#x2013;ă ¨ĺ¤&#x161;ă ?ă Žé şç&#x201D;Łă&#x201A;&#x2019;ć&#x152; 㠤寺ă &#x152;ă &#x201A;ă&#x201A;&#x160;ă&#x20AC; ă ?㠎寺㠎ĺ˘&#x192;ĺ&#x2020;&#x2026;ă Ť ă Żă &#x2122;ă °ă&#x201A;&#x2030;ă &#x2014;ă &#x201E;ĺŁ ç&#x201D;ťă &#x152;茳ă&#x201A;&#x2030;ă&#x201A;&#x152;ă&#x201A;&#x2039;ă&#x20AC;&#x201A; ç&#x201D;şă Žĺ?&#x2014;ă Ťă &#x201A;ă&#x201A;&#x2039;ă&#x192;&#x2014;ă&#x192;&#x;ă&#x192;łĺŻşă Žĺ&#x2030;?ă Žč&#x160;?ç&#x201D;&#x;㠯茳ĺ&#x2026;&#x2030;厢 ă&#x201A;&#x201E;ĺ&#x153;°ĺ&#x2026;&#x192;ä˝?ć°&#x2018;ă Žă&#x192;&#x;ă&#x192;źă&#x192;&#x2020;ă&#x201A;Łă&#x192;łă&#x201A;°ă&#x192;?ă&#x201A;¤ă&#x192;łă&#x192;&#x2C6;ă ¨ă &#x2014;㠌使ç&#x201D;¨ă &#x2022;ă&#x201A;&#x152;ă&#x20AC; ä¸&#x20AC;č&#x2C6;Źă Ťĺ&#x2026;Źé&#x2013;&#x2039;ă &#x2022;ă&#x201A;&#x152;ă Śă &#x201E; ă&#x201A;&#x2039;ă&#x20AC;&#x201A;寺㠎ĺ¤&#x2013;茳㠯壎大㠧㠯㠪ă &#x201E;ă &#x152;ă&#x20AC; ĺ&#x2020;&#x2026;čŁ&#x2026;ă Żĺ?°čąĄç&#x161;&#x201E;ă §ă &#x2122;ă °ă&#x201A;&#x2030;ă &#x2014;ă &#x201E;ă&#x201A;żă&#x201A;¤ă&#x192;Ťă&#x192;źć§&#x2DC;ĺź? ĺťşçŻ&#x2030;ă Žä¸&#x20AC;äž&#x2039;ă §ă&#x201A;&#x201A;ă &#x201A;ă&#x201A;&#x2039;ă&#x20AC;&#x201A;寺㠎中ĺż&#x192;ă Ťă Żäť?ć&#x2022;&#x2122;ă Žç&#x2030;ŠčŞ&#x17E;ă &#x152;ă &#x201A;ă&#x201A;&#x160;ă&#x20AC; ĺŁ ç&#x201D;ťă Ťă Żäşşă&#x20AC;&#x2026;ă Žç&#x201D;&#x; ć´ťă &#x152;ć??ă &#x2039;ă&#x201A;&#x152;ă Śă &#x201E;ă&#x201A;&#x2039;ă&#x20AC;&#x201A;ĺŁ ç&#x201D;ťă Ťč&#x2C6;&#x2C6;ĺ&#x2018;łă Žă &#x201A;ă&#x201A;&#x2039;ć&#x2013;šă Ťă Żă&#x20AC; ďź&#x201D;ďź&#x2122;ă&#x201A;­ă&#x192;­ĺ&#x152;&#x2014;ă Žă&#x201A;żă&#x192;Żă&#x192;łă&#x192;&#x2018;ĺ&#x153;°ĺ&#x152;ş ă Ťă &#x201A;ă&#x201A;&#x2039;ă&#x20AC; ĺ?&#x152;ă &#x2DC;ă ?ă&#x201A;żă&#x201A;¤ă&#x192;Ťă&#x192;źă Žäşşă&#x20AC;&#x2026;ă Ťă&#x201A;&#x2C6;ă Łă Śĺťşă Śă&#x201A;&#x2030;ă&#x201A;&#x152;ă&#x20AC; ă&#x192;&#x2014;ă&#x192;&#x;ă&#x192;łĺŻşă ¨ĺ?&#x152;ă &#x2DC;ç&#x201D;ťĺŽśă &#x152;ĺŁ ç&#x201D;ťă&#x201A;&#x2019;ć??ă &#x201E;ă &#x;ă ¨ć&#x20AC;?ă&#x201A;?ă&#x201A;&#x152;ă&#x201A;&#x2039;ă&#x192;&#x17D;ă&#x192;łă&#x192;&#x2013;ă&#x201A;˘ĺŻşă&#x201A;&#x201A;ă &#x160;ĺ&#x2039;§ă&#x201A; ă §ă &#x201A;ă&#x201A;&#x2039;ă&#x20AC;&#x201A;

Above: The mural inside Wat Nong Bua shows the semblable style like the murals Wat Phumin Below: In the early morning in front of Wat Phumin

How to get there From Chiang Mai, two airlines operate flights: Kan Airlines operate on Tuesday, Thursday, Saturday and Sunday. Call 0 2551 6111 or visit: www.kanairlines.com. Nok Mini Airlines operates Chiang Mai â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Nan flight daily. Call 0 5328 0444 or visit: www.nokmini.com. Green Bus also operates economy and VIP buses daily from the Arcade Bus Station, Chiang Mai. For Nan tourist information, contact 0 5371 7433 (TAT Northern region, Section 2)


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AROUND US . わたしたちの周りで Text: Naruepakorn Manewan Photo: Apple Tree

%$&. STREET ARTISTS バックストリートアーティスト )URP-XQN3DLQWVWR&KLDQJ0DL'RZQWRZQ6WUHHW$UW


AROUND US

The cute graffiti murals on the wall of Baan Thammapakorn Nursing House, Bamrungburi Road, Chiang Mai downtown

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AROUND US . ă&#x201A;?ă &#x;ă &#x2014;ă &#x;ă Ąă Žĺ&#x2018;¨ă&#x201A;&#x160;ă §

â&#x20AC;&#x153;Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m  the  f*cking  father  of  the  planet,â&#x20AC;?  â&#x20AC;&#x153;The  place  for  dogâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s  pee,   andâ&#x20AC;?  â&#x20AC;&#x153;Tum  loves  Oat,â&#x20AC;?  are  examples  of  inane  (Thai)  comments  sprayed   or  penned  on  the  walls  of  deserted  buildings,  public  restrooms,  govern-­ ment  properties,  often  by  students  of  some  vocational  college  and  those   who  simply  enjoy  being  controversial.  These  examples  of  what  can  be   described  as  mindless  vandalism,  although  regrettable,  were  perhaps   what  gave  street  artists  the  platform  to  brighten  up  the  abandoned  places   around  towns  across  the  country. *UDIÂżWLLVWKHVXEVHWRIVWUHHWDUWDQGWKHQDPHIRULPDJHVRUOHWWHULQJ scratched,  scrawled,  painted  or  marked  in  any  manner  on  a  property.  It   can  be  used  to  refer  to  any  type  of  public  markings  that  may  appear  in   WKHIRUPVRIVLPSOHZULWWHQZRUGVWRHODERUDWHZDOOSDLQWLQJV*UDIÂżWL has  existed  since  ancient  times,  with  examples  dating  back  to  Ancient   Greek  of  Ephesus  (in  modern-­day  Turkey).  There  is  an  ancient  form   RIJUDIÂżWLKHUHORFDOJXLGHVVD\LVDQDGYHUWLVHPHQWIRUSURVWLWXWLRQ ,QPRGHUQWLPHVJUDIÂżWLKDVHYROYHGLQWRDSRSFXOWXUHH[LVWHQFH often   related   to   underground   hip   hop   music,   b-­boy,   and   an   X-­treme   OLIHVW\OH *UDIÂżWL LV DOVR XVHG IRU JDQJV WR PDUN WKHLU WHUULWRU\ RU WR VHUYHDVDQLQGLFDWRURUÂľWDJÂśIRUJDQJUHODWHGDFWLYLW\0RGHUQJUDIÂżWL was  widely  known  in  the  public  through  the  paintings  on  the  subway   RI1HZ<RUN'XULQJ:RUOG:DU,,DQGIRUGHFDGHVDIWHUWKHSKUDVH â&#x20AC;&#x153;Kilroy  was  hereâ&#x20AC;?  with  an  accompanying  illustration  was  widespread   WKURXJKRXWWKHZRUOGGXHWRLWVXVHE\$PHULFDQWURRSVDQGLWVÂżOWHULQJ into  American  popular  culture.   Street  art  came  to  Thailand  with  hip  hop  culture  around  18  years   DJR7KHPXVLFEURXJKWVWUHHWFXOWXUHWR%DQJNRNWRR6LQFHWKHQIRUPV of  spraying  and  paintings  in  public  have  been  developed  into  stylish   signatures  and  storytelling  pictures.


AROUND US

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Photo: makkeboo

Âł1DWXUDOO\ZKHQ,ÂżUVWVWDUWHGRXW around  10   years   ago,   people   werenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t   WRRLPSUHVVHG´3LFKDL%RRQFRRP\RX WKH &KLDQJ 0DL QDWLYH JUDIÂżWL VDLG As  at  that  time  he  was  still  an  amateur   and  street  art  was  a  foreign  concept  to   the   Chiang   Mai   natives.   Though   his     creations   were   done   on   deserted     properties  â&#x20AC;&#x153;People  still  considered  the   activity  related  to  gangsters,â&#x20AC;?  he  said.   â&#x20AC;&#x153;Cities   that   welcome   street   art   often   have   a   diverse   art   and   culture,   DQGWKHLUFLWL]HQVDUHFUHDWLYH´3LFKDL FRQÂżUPHG DQG ZHQW RQ WR VD\ WKDW the   term   street   art   can   apply   to   any   art   made   in   public   spaces   including   WUDGLWLRQDOJUDIÂżWLVWHQFLOVWLFNHUDUW wheat-­pasting   and   poster,   plus   video   SURMHFWLRQ Ă&#x20AC;DVK PREELQJ DQG VWUHHW installations.  Artists   have   challenged   art  by  situating  their  works  in  non-­art   circumstances   and   do   not   aspire   to   FKDQJH WKH GHÂżQLWLRQ RI DQ DUWZRUN but  rather  to  question  the  existing  en-­ vironment  with  its  own  language.  They   attempt  to  communicate  to  the  public   about  socially  relevant  themes  in  ways   that  are  informed  by  esthetic  values.   Apart   from   being   the   express   sign   of   artists,   street   art   is   also   used   for   commercial   advertising   by   many   worldwide  companies,  generating  huge   sums   of   money,   as   in   the   case   with   %DQNV\ &HV 0HW %HQRWH 3L[QLW DQG3LQ7KDLODQG

Chiang  Mai  is  known  for  its  street   artworks   in   various   styles   created   by  both  foreign  artists  who  visit  the   city  and  local  painters.  You  can  see   them   at   the   deserted   areas   behind   6XULZRQJ%RRN&HQWHU .DPSKDHQJ 'LQ5RDG EHKLQG6XDQ%XDN+DDG Park,   the   wall   of   Thammapakorn   1XUVLQJ+RXVHRQ%DPUXQJEXUL5RDG (at  the  corner  of  Chiang  Mai  moat),   WKH IRRW RI ,URQ %ULGJH 6HH 6FDSH Gallery  (Nimmanhaemin  Road)  and   around  town.  

Highway Art Mostly  found  in  trucks  and  privately   owned  shuttle  buses  that  are  available   for   rental   in   provinces,   the   airbrush   paintings   (not   the   above   photo)     illustrate   comic   stories,   cartoons   or   beautiful  vivid  paintings  such  as  those   found   in   street   art.   Some   say   they   are  a  low  form  of  art;Íž  but  the  unique   character  of  provincial  art  in  Thailand   made  up  of  vivid,  cheerful  and  funny   scenes   adds   something   special   to   the   highway   streets   throughout   the   country.   ă&#x192;?ă&#x201A;¤ă&#x201A;Śă&#x201A;§ă&#x201A;¤ă&#x201A;˘ă&#x192;źă&#x192;&#x2C6; â&#x20AC;&#x192;éŤ&#x2DC;é&#x20AC;&#x;é &#x201C;衯㠧čŚ&#x2039;ă &#x2039;ă &#x2018;ă&#x201A;&#x2039;ă&#x192;&#x2C6;ă&#x192;Šă&#x192;&#x192;ă&#x201A;Żă&#x201A;&#x201E;大ă ?㠪茳ĺ&#x2026;&#x2030;

â&#x20AC;&#x192;ĺť&#x192;ćŁ&#x201E;ă&#x192;&#x201C;ă&#x192;Ťă&#x201A;&#x201E;é&#x203A;ťć&#x;ąă&#x20AC; ĺ&#x2026;ŹčĄ&#x2020;ă&#x192;&#x2C6;ă&#x201A;¤ă&#x192;Źă Şă Šă Ťă&#x201A;šă&#x192;&#x2014;ă&#x192;Źă&#x192;ź

厢ç&#x201D;¨ă&#x192;?ă&#x201A;šă ŤéŽŽă&#x201A;&#x201E;ă &#x2039;ă Ťă&#x192;&#x161;ă&#x201A;¤ă&#x192;łă&#x192;&#x2C6;ă &#x2022;ă&#x201A;&#x152;ă &#x;çľľă&#x201A;&#x201A;ĺŁ ç&#x201D;ť

ă&#x201A;&#x201E;ă&#x201A;Ťă&#x192;Šă&#x192;źă&#x192;&#x161;ă&#x192;łă §ĺ¤&#x161;ă ?㠎錏隿ă &#x2019;ă &#x;č?˝ć&#x203A;¸ă ?ă&#x201A;&#x2019;čŚ&#x2039;ă &#x2039;

ă Žä¸&#x20AC;税㠨č¨&#x20AC;ă &#x2C6;ă&#x201A;&#x2039;ă ă&#x201A;?ă &#x2020;ă&#x20AC;&#x201A;ă&#x201A;łă&#x192;Ąă&#x192;&#x2021;ă&#x201A;Łă&#x201A;˘ă&#x192;łă Žă&#x201A;šă&#x192;&#x2C6;ă&#x192;ź

ă &#x2018;ă&#x201A;&#x2039;ă &#x152;ă&#x20AC; ć&#x153;&#x20AC;čż&#x2018;㠧㠯ă ?ă&#x201A;&#x152;ă&#x201A;&#x2030;ă &#x152;ă&#x201A;Żă&#x192;źă&#x192;Ťă Şă&#x201A;šă&#x192;&#x2C6;ă&#x192;Şă&#x192;źă&#x192;&#x2C6;

ă&#x192;Şă&#x192;źă&#x201A;&#x201E;柍ç&#x201D;ťă&#x201A;&#x201E;çž&#x17D;ă &#x2014;ă ?鎎ă&#x201A;&#x201E;ă &#x2039;ă Şçľľă &#x152;ć??ă &#x2039;ă&#x201A;&#x152;ă Śă &#x201E;

ă&#x201A;˘ă&#x192;źă&#x192;&#x2C6;ă Ťă Şă Łă Śă &#x201E;ă&#x201A;&#x2039;ă&#x20AC;&#x201A; ă &#x201C;ă&#x201A;&#x152;ă&#x201A;&#x2030;ă Žçľľç&#x201D;ťă&#x201A;&#x2019;ç?&#x2020;解ă &#x2122;ă&#x201A;&#x2039;

ă&#x201A;&#x2039;ă&#x20AC;&#x201A;č&#x160;¸čĄ&#x201C;ć&#x20AC;§ă &#x152;ä˝&#x17D;ă &#x201E;ă ¨ă &#x201E;ă &#x2020;äşşă&#x201A;&#x201A;ă &#x201E;ă&#x201A;&#x2039;ă &#x152;ă&#x20AC; ă &#x201C;ă&#x201A;&#x152;ă&#x201A;&#x201A;ă&#x192;Ś

ă Ťă Żă&#x20AC;&#x152;ă&#x201A;°ă&#x192;Šă&#x192;&#x2022;ă&#x192;&#x2020;ă&#x201A;Łă&#x20AC;?ă&#x201A;&#x2019;ç&#x;Ľă&#x201A;&#x2039;ĺż&#x2026;čŚ ă &#x152;ă &#x201A;ă&#x201A;&#x2039;ă&#x20AC;&#x201A; ă&#x201A;°ă&#x192;Šă&#x192;&#x2022;ă&#x192;&#x2020;

ă&#x192;&#x2039;ă&#x192;źă&#x201A;Żă §ćĽ˝ă &#x2014;ă &#x201E;ă&#x201A;żă&#x201A;¤ă Žă&#x201A;­ă&#x192;Łă&#x192;Šă&#x201A;Żă&#x201A;żă&#x192;źă Žă ˛ă ¨ă ¤

ă&#x201A;Łă Żĺ&#x2026;Źĺ&#x2026;ąă Žĺ ´ă Ťć&#x2013;&#x2021;ĺ­&#x2014;ă&#x201A;&#x2019;çľľç&#x201D;ťă Žă&#x201A;&#x2C6;ă &#x2020;ă Ťć??ă &#x201E;ă &#x;ă&#x201A;&#x201A;

ă ¨ă&#x201A;&#x201A;č¨&#x20AC;ă &#x2C6;ă&#x201A;&#x2039;ă&#x20AC;&#x201A;

ă Žă §ă&#x20AC; ĺ?¤ă ?ă Żă&#x192;&#x2C6;ă&#x192;Ťă&#x201A;łă Ťç&#x201D;ąć?Ľă &#x2122;ă&#x201A;&#x2039;ă&#x20AC;&#x201A;čż&#x2018;䝣㠧㠯ă&#x201A;˘ă&#x192;Ąă&#x192;Ş ă&#x201A;Ťă Žă&#x192;&#x2019;ă&#x192;&#x192;ă&#x192;&#x2014;ă&#x192;&#x203A;ă&#x192;&#x192;ă&#x192;&#x2014;ć&#x2013;&#x2021;ĺ&#x152;&#x2013;㠍役é&#x;żă &#x2022;ă&#x201A;&#x152;ă&#x20AC; ă&#x201A;Žă&#x192;Łă&#x192;łă&#x201A;° ă Žć´ťĺ&#x2039;&#x2022;ă Žä¸&#x20AC;ç&#x2019;°ă&#x20AC; ă žă &#x;ă Żă&#x192;&#x2020;ă&#x192;Şă&#x192;&#x2C6;ă&#x192;Şă&#x192;źă&#x201A;&#x2019;襨ă &#x2122; ă&#x201A;&#x201A;㠎㠨㠪㠣㠌ă &#x201E;ă&#x201A;&#x2039;ă&#x20AC;&#x201A; ă&#x201A;żă&#x201A;¤ă Ťă Żďź&#x2018;ďź&#x2DC;ĺš´ĺ&#x2030;?ă Ť TKOă&#x201A;&#x201E;ă&#x201A;¸ă&#x192;§ă&#x201A;¤ă&#x192;&#x153;ă&#x192;źă&#x201A;¤ă Şă Šă Žă&#x192;&#x2019;ă&#x192;&#x192;ă&#x192;&#x2014;ă&#x192;&#x203A;ă&#x192;&#x192; ă&#x192;&#x2014;é&#x;łćĽ˝ă ¨ĺ&#x2026;ąă Ťă&#x201A;šă&#x201A;żă&#x201A;¤ă&#x192;Şă&#x192;&#x192;ă&#x201A;ˇă&#x192;Ľă ŞĺŁ ç&#x201D;ťă &#x152; ĺ§&#x2039;ă žă Łă &#x;ă&#x20AC;&#x201A;ă&#x192; ă&#x201A;§ă&#x192;łă&#x192;&#x17E;ă&#x201A;¤ă Žă&#x201A;šă&#x192;&#x2C6;ă&#x192;Şă&#x192;źă&#x192;&#x2C6;ă&#x201A;˘ă&#x192;ź ă&#x192;&#x2020;ă&#x201A;Łă&#x201A;šă&#x192;&#x2C6;ă&#x192;&#x201D;ă&#x192; ă&#x192;Łă&#x201A;¤ć°?ă Żă&#x20AC; ć&#x153;&#x20AC;ĺ&#x2C6;?ă Żă&#x192;?ă&#x201A;Źă&#x192;&#x2020;ă&#x201A;Ł ă&#x192;&#x2013;ă Şĺ?°čąĄă&#x201A;&#x2019;ć&#x152; ă &#x;ă&#x201A;&#x152;ă &#x152;ă Ąă ă Łă &#x;ă ¨č¨&#x20AC;ă &#x2020;ă&#x20AC;&#x201A; ă &#x2014; ă &#x2039;ă &#x2014;ă&#x20AC; ć°&#x2018;čĄ&#x2020;㠨㠎ă&#x201A;łă&#x192;&#x;ă&#x192;Ľă&#x192;&#x2039;ă&#x201A;ąă&#x192;źă&#x201A;ˇă&#x192;§ă&#x192;łă Žĺ ´ă § ă&#x201A;&#x201A;ă &#x201A;ă&#x201A;&#x160;ă&#x20AC; ă&#x201A;˘ă&#x192;źă&#x192;&#x2C6;ă&#x192;Żă&#x192;źă&#x201A;Żă §ă &#x201A;ă&#x201A;&#x2039;ă ¨č¨&#x20AC;ă &#x2020;ă&#x20AC;&#x201A;

Above photo on the left page: taken from the deserted area behind Suriwong Book Store Below photo on the left page: taken from the foot of Iron Bridge


46

THAI TALKS .  タイトーク Text: Boonmee Sriboonrueng Photo: www.wikipedia.com

日本の板目木版画とポルノ 伝統的なポルノ画像の履歴

 タイの画家たちは、王室や仏教に支援されてい

ノの一種として春画は誤解を招く可能性はある

るため、古代絵画の多くは仏教にまつわる作品で

が、それはアーティストとしての威信を損なうも

ある。カラマストラと呼ばれる性的な絵が描かれ

のではなかった。

た個人印刷本は数冊しかなかった。印刷業界が公

 春画は古代中国で薬の説明書のイラストとし

になると、ポルノは雑誌として出版されるようにな

て描かれたものを起源とする。中国唐の偉大な

る(最近では主にインターネット)。 ともかく、タイ

エロティックな画家、周牙も、大きな影響を及ぼ

でポルノが放送されるようになったのはわずか5

していると考えられている。彼は当時の多くの官

0年前だが、 タイよりももっとシャイな国、 日本は、

能的な芸術家と同じように、生殖器やトポスの大

タイよりもはるか先を行っている。

きさを誇張する傾向がみられた。 日本では、春画

 春画は主に木版印刷で製作されるエロティッ

は平安時代にさかのぼる。 この時点では春画は

ク芸術である。まれにだが、浮世絵の動きに先行

宮廷クラスのみに限定されていたが、絵巻物語

した手書きのものも現存する。春画を文字通り翻

によって朝廷や修道院のスキャンダルが描かれ

訳すると 「春の絵」だが、 「春」はセックスの婉曲表

た。政府が春画を抑制させるよう何度も試みた

現でもある。

ため、春画は潜行的となった。

 浮世絵の全体の動きは、現代社会の理想的な

 明治時代の始まり (1868-1912)、西洋文化と

生活を描くものであった。日常生活の美学に続い

技術の導入、特に写真の再生技術により、春画

て、江戸時代(1603∼1868)春画は、 フォームをで

は大きな影響を受けた。 しばらく春画は印刷さ

きるだけ多くの様々な性的道徳観の表現を模索し

れたが、人物の服装や髪型は西洋化し、次第に

てきたため、異性愛者、同性愛者、老いも若きも、

低下していった。

広い範囲で描かれていた。幕府からは好まれなか

 最近のアダルトビデオやウェブサイトのほと

ったが、富める者も貧しい者も、男性、女性を問わ

んどが日本の成人娯楽である。春画は伝統的

ず親しまれた。ほぼすべての浮世絵アーティスト

な美術コレクションとなり、高価な価格で販売

が自分のキャリアのある時点で春画を作り、ポル

されている。


47


50 GIFT IDEAS

. ギフトアイデア Text & Photo: Passport to Suvannaphoum

STREET IN STYLE Price: 30,000 Baht each Material: Oil spray on canvas by Alex Face Size: 80 x 80 cm.

Preduce Preduce is the new street outfits and skateboard shop, located opposite Tha Pae Gate next to Imm Hotel and McDonald. Open daily 11 a.m. - 9 p.m. 19/4-5 Kotchasarn Road T. Chang Klan, Muang Chiang Mai Tel. 08 2901 7890, www.preduce.com


GIFT IDEAS

2

1

5

3

4

1. Cement Painting Elephant Doll Price: 350 Baht Phetpaiboon Gallery, Ban Tawai Hang Dong district, Chiang Mai Tel. 0 5343 0479 or www.facebook.com/phetpaiboon 2. Painting Kungfu Shoes Price: start at 100 Baht Size: any sizes for both men and women Create by Saenpol Kaewrai Tel. 08 1973 9135, 08 1379 0793 3. Nokhook Design T-Shirt Price: 300 Baht Material: Cotton Nokhook Design 50 Rachamankha Rd., Soi 6 T. Phra Singh, Muang Chiang Mai Tel. 053814622 or www.nokhookdesign.net

4. Manee Backpack by Rubber Killer Price: 1,200 Baht Material: inner tubes of truck, car belt and canvas Size: L 420/ W 160 h./ 460 mm. Rubber Killer Nimmanhaemin Rd., Soi 11 Muang distrcit Chiang Mai Tel. 08 2381 6644 or www.facebook.com/rubberkiller 5. Poy Sang Long Painting by Vichit Chaiwong Price: Check out at Vichit Studio Material: Oil color on canvas Size: 40 x 50 cm. Vichit Studio Chiang Mai - San Kamphaeng Rd., San Kamphaeng district Tel. 0 5339 2733, 08 1882 5091 or www.vichitstudio.com

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52

SLEEP . ç?Ąç&#x153; Text: Passport to Suvannaphoum Photo: Apple Tree

THE  TWENTY  LODGE

The  Cute  Downtown  Boutique  Lodge

Located  in   the   heart   of   Chiang   Mai,   the   Twenty   Lodge   is   a   pretty   boutique-­hotel   with   20   rooms   (18     superior  rooms  and  2  deluxe  rooms)  on   Singharaj  Road,  in  the  vicinity  of  Suan   Dok   Gate,   the   City   Moat,   Wat   Phra   Singh  and  Sunday  Walking  Street.  The   lemon  green  British  vintage  building   is  situated  beside  a  small  shady  garden   with   tranquil   swimming   pool   and   a   beautiful   white   building   housing   the   JXHVW URRPV ÂżWQHVV FHQWHU EDU DQG other  facilities.     Inside   the   spacious   guestrooms,   the   minimalist   decoration   plus     British  vintage  furniture  and  modern     facilities   make   the   room   appropriate   for   a   good   rest;Íž   whilst   the   extended     deluxe   room   offers   an   impressive   40m2   with   42â&#x20AC;?   widescreen/satellite   TV  and  more  modern  amenities.  

However  itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s   the   services   and     hospitality   that   are   the   best   features   of   the   Twenty   Lodge;Íž   whatever     requests   a   hotel   guest   makes,   they   are     considered  as  a  top  priority  and  the  staffâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s     professionalism   ensures   all   guestsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;     concerns   are   dealt   with   promptly.   The   hotel  also  provides  extra  services  for  your   comfort  such  as  car  parking,  car  rental,   concierge  service,  Wi-­Fi  internet,  laundry   service  and  medical  services.                     The   Lodge   has  a  peaceful  and  very   private   atmosphere   surrounded   by   a   local  residential  area  and  is  appropriate   for  travelers  seeking  comfort  and  style  at   reasonable  prices.  

ă&#x201A;śă&#x192;ťďź&#x2019;ďź?ă&#x192;­ă&#x192;&#x192;ă&#x201A;¸â&#x2C6;&#x2019;ă&#x192;&#x20AC;ă&#x201A;Śă&#x192;łă&#x201A;żă&#x201A;Śă&#x192;łă Žă &#x2039;ă&#x201A;? ă &#x201E;ă &#x201E;ă&#x192;&#x2013;ă&#x192;&#x2020;ă&#x201A;Łă&#x192;&#x192;ă&#x201A;ŻĺŽż â&#x20AC;&#x192;ďź&#x2019;ďź?㠎厢厤ă&#x201A;&#x2019;ć&#x152; ă ¤ă &#x2039;ă&#x201A;?ă &#x201E;ă &#x201E;ă&#x192;&#x2013;ă&#x192;&#x2020;ă&#x201A;Łă&#x192;&#x192;ă&#x201A;Żă&#x192;&#x203A;ă&#x192;&#x2020; ă&#x192;Ťă &#x152;ă&#x201A;šă&#x192;Żă&#x192;łă&#x192;&#x2030;ă&#x192;&#x192;ă&#x201A;Żé&#x2013;&#x20AC;ă Žčż&#x2018;ă ?ă Ťă&#x201A;Şă&#x192;źă&#x192;&#x2014;ă&#x192;łă&#x20AC;&#x201A;ă&#x201A;¤ă&#x201A;Žă&#x192;Ş

The 20 Lodge 8/3 Soi 3 Singharaj Rd., T. Sriphum, Muang Chiang Mai Tel. 0 5332 6322 or website: www.the20lodge.com

ă&#x201A;šă&#x192;´ă&#x201A;Łă&#x192;łă&#x192;&#x2020;ă&#x192;źă&#x201A;¸ă Žĺťşç&#x2030;Šă ŤĺżŤé Šă Şă&#x192;&#x2014;ă&#x192;źă&#x192;Ťă&#x201A;&#x201E;ă&#x192;? ă&#x192;źă Şă Šă &#x152;ĺŽ&#x152;ĺ&#x201A;&#x2122;ă&#x20AC;&#x201A;厢厤㠍㠯ă&#x201A;¤ă&#x201A;Žă&#x192;Şă&#x201A;šă&#x192;´ă&#x201A;Łă&#x192;łă&#x192;&#x2020;ă&#x192;ź ă&#x201A;¸ĺŽśĺ&#x2026;ˇă&#x201A;&#x201E;ă&#x192;Żă&#x201A;¤ă&#x192;&#x2030;ă&#x201A;šă&#x201A;Żă&#x192;Şă&#x192;źă&#x192;łă&#x201A;ľă&#x192;&#x2020;ă&#x192;Šă&#x201A;¤ă&#x192;&#x2C6;ă&#x192;&#x2020;ă&#x192;Źă&#x192;&#x201C; ă ¨ă&#x192;˘ă&#x192;&#x20AC;ă&#x192;łă Şé&#x20AC; ă&#x201A;&#x160;ă&#x20AC;&#x201A; ă&#x201A;šă&#x201A;żă&#x192;&#x192;ă&#x192;&#x2022;ă Žă&#x192;&#x203A;ă&#x201A;šă&#x192;&#x201D;ă&#x201A;żă&#x192;Şă&#x192;&#x2020;ă&#x201A;Łă&#x201A;&#x201A; ă &#x2122;ă °ă&#x201A;&#x2030;ă &#x2014;ă ?ă&#x20AC; ă&#x201A;Ťă&#x192;źă&#x192;Źă&#x192;łă&#x201A;żă&#x192;Ťă&#x201A;&#x201E;ă&#x192;Šă&#x192;łă&#x192;&#x2030;ă&#x192;Şă&#x192;źă Şă Šă Ž ă&#x201A;ľă&#x192;źă&#x192;&#x201C;ă&#x201A;šă&#x201A;&#x201A;ă &#x201A;ă&#x201A;&#x2039;ă&#x20AC;&#x201A;


54

DINING .  ダイニング

Text & Photo: Passport to Suvannaphoum

DELIGHT WITH THE INTERNATIONAL TASTES AROUND CHIANG MAI

1

2

1. DAILYCIOUS CAFE

Dailycious is like a one-stop-shop cafe that offers you a stylish hangout with a selection of coffees and homemade baked goods, plus large meals for breakfast until dinner; it is a place suitable for family dining and teenagers to meet up. For a light drink, we recommend the Mango Smoothie whilst the Rainbow salad with salmon and 3 different dressings is nice for an appetizer. The Panini Eggcellent is the humorously named, but delicious, Italian grilled sandwich dish and Texas Chili is a spicy meat curry in tomato soup; good to try with breads. Homemade pizza is also recommended. The restaurant is located near Central Plaza Chiang Mai Airport in Nim City Daily. Open daily 8 a.m. - 9 p.m. Nim City Daily, Mahidol Rd. Muang Chiang Mai Tel. 08 4515 3626 or 08 4611 0596

DAILYCIOUS カフェ  コーヒーや自家製焼き菓子に加え、朝食から夕食まで大きなサイズの 食事をもてなす、 スタイリッシュなカフェがセントラルプラザ近くのニム シティにオープン。マンゴースムージーと3つのドレッシングで楽しめる レインボーサラダとサーモンは前菜にお勧め。イタリアングリルサンド イッチ、テキサスミートカレー、 自家製ピザもお勧めの品。

3


2. LONG MA DU RESTAURANT

This may sound like a French restaurant, when in fact Long Madu translates as ‘come to try’ in Thai; a welcoming name for a homemade-style restaurant, featuring a cozy and friendly atmosphere as if dining at home with dishes cooked by your talented mom. The restaurant’s chef selects only good quality ingredients for the dishes and when combined with the great recipes of the Bunnag family (ancient Thai aristocracy), the result is excellent. Recommended is the Green Curry with Roti and Spiced Rice Steamed with Chicken; many Islamic dishes are also worth trying. The restaurant is located in the pretty garden house in Chindaniwet Village, Nong Hoi. Open daily 11 a.m. - 9 p.m. Chindaniwet Village, Chiang Mai – Lamphun Rd., Nong Hoi Tel. 08 1783 4165

ロングマドゥレストラン  「ロングマドゥ」はタイ語で「来て試してみる」 という意味で、歓迎の意 味をこめたホームメイドスタイルレストラン。 フレンドリーな雰囲気で、 才能のあるお母さんが家でご飯を作ってくれているかのようだ。厳選さ れた素材で作られ、特にグリーンカレーとロティ、 スパイスライスと蒸し チキンがお勧め。多くのイスラム料理もぜひお試しを。

3. IMPERIAL SHABU RESTAURANT

Imperial Shabu Restaurant has been opened for over ten years, and is located on the first floor of the Imperial Mae Ping Hotel, Chiang Mai. Though the restaurant is simple in its decoration, the cuisine here is superb. Like the high standard of the hotel, the restaurant is clean and convenient, and its atmosphere is friendly for hanging out with your friends and a few shabu-shabu dishes. The restaurant offers a wide range of sauces, whilst the pork, chicken, seafood and more are brought in fresh on a daily basis. It also provides an abundant selection of appetizers such as sushi, tempura and more. The restaurant also serves a special monthly dish. Price starts at 259 Baht++. Open daily 5.30 – 10 p.m. Sri Donchai Rd. 1st floor Imperial Mae Ping Hotel Tel. 0 5328 3900 website: www.imperialhotels.com

インペリアルしゃぶレストラン  しゃぶしゃぶがチェンマイで人気が出る前に設立されたインペリア ルしゃぶレストランはインペリアルメーピンホテルの1階にあり、創業 10年になる。 フレンドリーで清潔な場所で新鮮な素材から作るしゃ ぶしゃぶを多くのソースで楽しめる。お寿司や天ぷらなどもある。お値 段は259バーツから。


56

TEST TASTE . ĺ&#x2018;łă Žă&#x192;&#x2020;ă&#x201A;šă&#x192;&#x2C6; Text: Adithep Nuamcherm Photo: Apple Tree

AS  ART  AS  ITSELF   @  Le  Beaulieu  Restaurant     č&#x160;¸čĄ&#x201C;ă ?ă Žă&#x201A;&#x201A;ă Žďź La Beaulieuă&#x192;Źă&#x201A;šă&#x192;&#x2C6;ă&#x192;Šă&#x192;ł

France  is   famous   throughout   the   world   for   its   food.   It   is   said   that   creating   French   cuisine   is   an   art   form,   and   if   a   chef   is   an   artist   a     restaurant   would   be   the   gallery.   Le   Beaulieu  Restaurant  is  the  new  luxury   gallery  of  French  art  in  Chiang  Mai.   Le   Beaulieu   is   the   progeny   of   the   renowned   Le   Beaulieu,   Bang-­ kok,   and   the   chefs   in   Chiang   Mai   are   the   protÊgÊs   of   Chef   Herve     Frerard.  Located  in  Chiang  Mai  Land    

Soi  7,   Chang   Klan   Road,   this     restaurant  was  developed  from  a  cozy   house  making  the  ambience  friendly,     simple   and   private.  An   outdoor   bar   has  been  added  to  the  house  manned   by   a   bartender   with   over   30   years     experience  working  in  5  star  hotels. An   impressive   collection   of   oil   paintings   suit   the   pleasant   ambience   of  the  restaurant,  but  it  is  the  food  that   is  truly  exquisite.   Carnerroli   Risotto   &   Grilled     Scallop   with   Lemon   Emulsion,   for     H[DPSOHLVD¿QHVWDUWHUDVLVWKH3DQ Fried   Soulard   Duck   Liver,   Poached   Pear  &  Raspberries  in  Port  Wine,    where   the  mellow  taste  of  wine  on  the  grilled   duck   liver   is   superb.   For   the   mains,     Slow-­Cooked   Beef   Cheek     Burgundy   Style,   Carrot   Vichy   &   Italian   Pars-­ ley   and   the   Roasted   Australian   Lamb   Rack  &  Provencal   Herbs,   Rosemary   &   Lemon   Jus   are   stand-­out   items,  

either  of   which   can   be   completed   by   a   desert   of  Apple   Tart   &   Vanilla   Ice   Cream.   Continuing  the  art  theme,the  waiters   are  akin  to  curators,  knowledgeable  and   attentive  about  their  establishment  and     its  works  of  art.  Prices  here  are  also  highly     reasonable,  so  make  sure  to  pay  it  a  visit.    

â&#x20AC;&#x192;ă&#x192;&#x2022;ă&#x192;Šă&#x192;łă&#x201A;šć&#x2013;&#x2122;ç?&#x2020;ă Żč&#x160;¸čĄ&#x201C;ă §ă &#x201A;ă&#x201A;&#x160;ă&#x20AC; ă&#x201A;ˇă&#x201A;§ă&#x192;&#x2022;ă Żč&#x160;¸čĄ&#x201C;厜ă&#x20AC; ć&#x2013;&#x2122;ç?&#x2020;ă Żč&#x160;¸čĄ&#x201C;ä˝&#x153;ĺ&#x201C; ă&#x20AC; ă&#x192;Źă&#x201A;šă&#x192;&#x2C6;ă&#x192;Š ă&#x192;łă Żă&#x201A;Žă&#x192;Łă&#x192;Šă&#x192;Şă&#x192;źă §ă &#x201A;ă&#x201A;&#x2039;ă ¨č¨&#x20AC;ă&#x201A;?ă&#x201A;&#x152;ă&#x201A;&#x2039;ă&#x20AC;&#x201A;La Beaulieuă&#x192;Źă&#x201A;šă&#x192;&#x2C6;ă&#x192;Šă&#x192;łă Żă&#x192; ă&#x201A;§ă&#x192;łă&#x192;&#x17E;ă&#x201A;¤ă ŽéŤ&#x2DC; ç´&#x161;ă&#x192;&#x2022;ă&#x192;Šă&#x192;łă&#x201A;šă&#x201A;˘ă&#x192;źă&#x192;&#x2C6;ă&#x201A;Žă&#x192;Łă&#x192;Šă&#x192;Şă&#x192;źă ¨ă&#x201A;&#x201A;č¨&#x20AC;ă &#x2C6;ă&#x201A;&#x2039;ă ă&#x201A;?ă &#x2020;ă&#x20AC;&#x201A;ă&#x192; ă&#x201A;§ă&#x192;łă&#x192;&#x17E;ă&#x201A;¤ă&#x192;Šă&#x192;łă&#x192;&#x2030;é&#x20AC;&#x161;ă&#x201A;&#x160;ďź&#x2014;ă Ťä˝? 罎ă &#x2014;ă&#x20AC; ĺ°?ă &#x2022;㠪厜ă&#x201A;&#x2019;ă&#x192;&#x2022;ă&#x192;Źă&#x192;łă&#x192;&#x2030;ă&#x192;Şă&#x192;źă §ă&#x201A;ˇă&#x192;łă&#x192;&#x2014;ă&#x192;Ťă Ťé&#x20AC; ă&#x201A;&#x160;ĺ¤&#x2030;ă &#x2C6;ă &#x;ă&#x20AC; ă&#x192;&#x2014;ă&#x192;Šă&#x201A;¤ă&#x192;&#x2122;ă&#x192;źă&#x192;&#x2C6;㠪犺 é&#x2013;&#x201C;ă&#x20AC;&#x201A;äş&#x201D;ă ¤ć&#x2DC;&#x;ă&#x192;&#x203A;ă&#x192;&#x2020;ă&#x192;Ťă §ďź&#x201C;ďź?ĺš´ă&#x201A;&#x201A;ă Žçľ&#x152;é¨&#x201C;ă&#x201A;&#x2019;ć&#x152; ă ¤ă&#x192;?ă&#x192;źă&#x192;&#x2020;ă&#x192;łă&#x192;&#x20AC;ă&#x192;źă &#x152;ä˝&#x153;ă&#x201A;&#x2039;ă&#x201A;Ťă&#x201A;Żă&#x192;&#x2020;ă&#x192;Ťă Ż ć źĺ&#x2C6;Ľă&#x20AC;&#x201A;ć&#x2013;&#x2122;ç?&#x2020;ă&#x201A;&#x201A;ă Šă&#x201A;&#x152;ă&#x201A;&#x201A;č&#x2C6;&#x152;éź&#x201C;ă&#x201A;&#x2019;ć&#x2030;&#x201C;ă ¤ă&#x192;&#x2022;ă&#x192;Šă&#x192;łă&#x201A;šć&#x2013;&#x2122;ç?&#x2020;ă Žć&#x2022;°ă&#x20AC;&#x2026;ă&#x20AC;&#x201A;ă &#x160;ĺ&#x20AC;¤ćŽľă&#x201A;&#x201A;ă &#x160;ć&#x2030;&#x2039;ă &#x201D;ă&#x201A;?ă Ş ă Žă §ă &#x153;ă ˛ă &#x160;芌ă &#x2014;ă&#x201A;&#x2019;ă&#x20AC;&#x201A;

Le Beaulieu Restaurant 428/8-9 Chiang Mai Land Soi 7 Chang Klan Rd., Muang Chiang Mai Tel. 0 5328 4488


COME - ON RESIDENCE ࠞࡕࡦ࡮࡟ࠫ࠺ࡦ࠻

Nestling amidst lush garden in a quiet corner of an old Chiang Mai, Come On Residence awaits for your coming to experience tranquility and comfort as you were home.

15/26 Bumroongburi Rd., T.Phrasingh, Chiang Mai Thailand. Tel. 0 5327 8936 E-mail: comeon@loxinfo.co.th See Inner Chiang Mai Map D1


60

RECIPE . レシピ Text: Tengoku De Cuisine Photo: Apple Tree

EGGPLANTS WITH  MISO  SAUCE     Eggplants   with   Miso   Sauce   is   both   a   Japanese   snack   and  appetizer.  It  is  also  one  of  the  most  popular  appetizers   of  Tengoku  De  Cuisine,  the  well-­known  premium  Japanese   restaurant  in  Chiang  Mai.  With  high  quality  ingredients  and   a  special  recipe  from  the  restaurant,  this  dish  is  exquisite.  It’s   also  not  complicated  to  make  and  the  ingredients  can  be  found   at  the  supermarket  so  it  can  easily  be  recreated  at  your  home.    

INGREDIENTS;; One big  eggplant,  vegetable  oil,  Japanese  Salt  Soya  Beans,   Sake  and  sugar METHODS;; 1.  Clean  the  eggplant  and  split  it  into  pieces 2.  Heat  the  vegetable  oil  and  add  the  eggplants.  Maintain  a   medium  heat  and  fry  the  eggplants  until  they  turn  yellow,   which  should  take  about  8  minutes. 3.  Take  the  eggplants  out  of  the  pan,  and  drain  the  oil.  Mix  the   salt  soya  beans  with  sake  and  sugar  to  make  the  miso  sauce.   4.  Pour  the  sauce  onto  the  fried  eggplants  and  serve. 茄子と味噌ソース 茄子と味噌ソースは日本の軽食でもあり前菜でもある。チェンマイでよく 知られるてんごくDe Cuisine日本料理店の一番人気のある前菜である。高級 素材を使ったレストランのレシピは極上の一品。簡単にスーパーで材料が手 に入るのでご家庭でも簡単にできる。

材料: 大きいなす、サラダ油、味噌、酒、砂糖

調理法: 1.茄子を洗い、いくつかに切り分ける。 2.サラダ油をフライパンで熱し、なすを入 れる。中火で茄子の色が黄色になるまで炒 める。約8分。 3.茄子をフライパンから取り出し、油を 取る。味噌に酒、砂糖を加え、味噌ソース を作る。 4.炒めた茄子に味噌ソースをかけてでき あがり。

Special Thanks: Tengoku De Cuisine Open daily except Thursday, 11 a.m. - 2.30 p.m. and 5 - 11 p.m. 55/8 M.1 T. Tasala, Muang Chiang Mai (opposite Mandarin Oriental Dhara Dhevi Hotel Chiang Mai) Tel. 0 5385 1133


62

. ショッピング Text: Passport to Suvannaphoum Photo: CPN SHOPPING

THE NEW  LIFESTYLE   DESTINATION  IN  CHIANG  RAI Central  Plaza  Chiang  Rai  has  Arrived

Finally, the  16

branch  of  Central   Plaza   by   Central   Pattana   Public   Co.   Ltd.  has  arrived,  launched  in  Chiang   Rai.  It  is  doubtless  the  most  modern   shopping  complex  in  the  northernmost   province  of  the  country.     Located  on  Super  Highway  Road,   this  2,400  million  Baht  property  is  a   low   rise   building   on   52   rai   area   of   land,   covering   about   110,000   m2.   7KHSOD]DLVVLWXDWHGRQÀRRUVZLWK contemporary  Lanna  decoration.  The   DUFKLWHFWXUHDOVRUHÀHFWVWKHHQYLURQ-­ ment   of   Chiang   Rai   city   with   the   façade   of   the   plaza   decorated   with   Kasalong   blossoms   (the   iconic   tree   of   Chiang   Rai)   whilst   the   roof   on   WKH QH[W EXLOGLQJ LV LQÀXHQFHG E\ D Lanna  style.       7KHSOD]DLVVHWWRIXO¿OOWKHQHZ experience   for   Chiang   Rai   people   under   the   CPN’s   theme   ‘More   Re-­ warding   Experience’.   Not   only   is   it   th

a shopping   center,   the   plaza   is   also   a   recreational   and   relaxing   place   downtown   supporting   the   modern   lifestyle  of  this  city.           Being   in   harmony   with   environ-­ ment,  this  low  rise  building  contains   over   200   brand   name   shops,   plus     Robinson,  Tops  Supermarket,  Power   Buy,  B2S,  Super  Sport,  Major  Cineplex   and   Karaoke.   The   place   is   also   the   center  of  modern  fashion  of  the  city,     supported   by   many   worldwide     fashion   brands.   Families   can     enjoy   the   plaza   by   dining   at   many     restaurants   inside   and   around   the   plaza.  Of  these,  Six  Sense  Restaurant   is  well  recommended;;  this  conceptual   stylish  restaurant  also  doubles  as  an   art   gallery   displaying   works   from   famous  local  artists.  Furthermore,  the   SOD]D KDV D ÀRZHU PDUNHW DQG .DG Luang  or  Northern  local  market  for   local  food  and  souvenirs.

What’s more,   the   plaza   has   been   built   with   an   environmental     conscience,   incorporating   modern   innovations  for  energy  saving.   I t   i s   c a l c u l a t e d   t o   s a v e     electrical   energy   of   1.4   mil-­ lion   units   per   year,   equal   to   the     energy   use   of   200   families,   in     addition   to   a   reduction   of   carbon-­ dioxide   emissions   of   around   800   tons  a  year.                                         Central Plaza Chiang Rai Tel. 052 020999 website: www.cpn.co.th

 セントラルパタナ社によるセントラルプラザ16号店がチェンライにオープン。世代を問わず多くの人々がシ ョッピングに、 ミーティングスポットにと利用する最もモダンな場所となるのは間違いない。環境に調和するよ うにとチェンライを象徴するカサロンの花でデザインされた外観で、中には200のブランドショップ、 ロビン ソン、 シネマ、 スタイリッシュなレストラン、北タイのローカルマーケットなどがある。


66

GOLF REVIEW .  ゴルフレビュー

Text: Adithep Nuamcherm Photo: Alpine Golf Resort, Chiang Mai

A

LPINE GOLF  RESORT   AMATEUR  OPEN  2011

The Standard  Golf  Competition  for  Amateurs


GOLF REVIEW

Left: Taweewat Taweepol, the General Manager of Alpine Golf Resort Right: Nuphat Pluengprasit, the Operation Manager Alpine Golf   Resort   Chiang   Mai   is   organizing   an   amateur   golf     competition,   with   a   top   prize   of   a   4-­days   3-­nights   package   tour   in   Indonesia,   and   hole-­in-­one   prize   of   100,000   Baht   and   5,000,000   Baht   insurance   policy.   There   will   also   be   a   lucky   draw   for   people   to   join   the   winners  on  their  trip. $IWHU WKH ¿UVW FRPSHWLWLRQ KHOG last  year  received  rave  reviews  from     amateur   golfers,   with   the   winners     heading   to   Malaysia,  Alpine   Golf     Resort  Amateur   Open   2011   is   back   with  a  bigger  and  better  competition. Taweewat   Taweepol,   General     Manager  of  Alpine  Golf  Resort  Chiang   Mai,   hopes   that   golfers   will   get   an   impressive  experience  and  enjoy  the   challenge  of  trying  to  win  tickets  to   play  golf  at  Ria  Bintan  Golf  Resort,   Indonesia;;  Taweewat  assured  us  that   the  competition  will  be  very  exciting.   Located   beside   the   beach,   Ria   Bintan   Golf   Club   is   a   36-­hole     championship   golf   course   designed   E\*DU\3OD\HUDQGLVLQWKHRI¿FLDO ranking  of  the  Top  100  golf  courses   published  by  Golf  Digest  Magazine.   5LD %LQWDQ *ROI FOXE FOLQFKHG ¿UVW place   in   the   Asian   Golf   Monthly   Awards  2008  for  Best  Golf  Course  in   Asia,   Best   Course   in   Indonesia   and   Best   Par   4   in  Asia.   Furthermore,   it   also  houses  Club  Med  Ria  Binton,  the  

67

Resort Amateur   Open   2011   will   kick   off   on   12th   June,   and   there   will   be   4   monthly   matches   on   9th   July,   13th   $XJXVWDQGWK6HSWHPEHU7KH¿QDO round   will   be   organized   in   October   2011.  Places  are  limited  to  144  golfers   per   match,   and   the   application   fee   is   2,500   Baht.   Members   of   GSM,   KTC   Credit  Card  and  Lipovitan  D  can  enjoy   a  reduced  fee  of  1,800  Baht  per  person.   Every  competitor  will  get  a  complimen-­ tary  shirt  and  cap  worth  2,000  Baht.  The   game’s  results  are  collected  by  system   36  and  calculated  by  Stableford  system.     Interested   parties   can   get   more     information  and  apply  at  0  5388  0888   or  www.alpinegolfresort.com.    

luxury beachfront  activity  resort.   If   you   are   not   a   keen   golfer,   you   have  the  chance  to  win  this  prize  via  a   lucky  draw  in  addition  to  other  prizes   such   as   free   green   fee   at  Alpine   Golf   Course.  Lipovitan  D  is  also  sponsoring   the   hole-­in-­one   prize   by   putting   up   a   100,000  Baht  reward.       Taweewat  also  said  that  2011  is  the   third  year  Alpine  Golf  Resort  has  served   Chiang  Mai  and  worldwide  tourists  and   golfers.  The  manager  said  that  Alpine   Golf  Resort  plans  to  expand  the  alliance   of   golf   courses   and   other   recreation   and  sport  companies  in  East  Asia  and   South  East  Asia  after  the  course  signed   a   cooperation   campaign   with   Japan,   Malaysia   and   soon   with   Singapore.   Being  a  campaign  to  support  Tourism   アルプスゴルフリゾートアマチュアオー Authority  of  Thailand,  it  will  link  many   プン2011 sports,  recreations  and  accommodation    アルプスゴルフリゾートチェンマイがアマチュ companies  in  Asia  to  visitors  of  Alpine   アゴルフ大会を開催する。優勝者にはインドネシ Golf   Course;;  Asian   visitors   can   get   アのゴルフツアーと賞金10万バーツ、5百万バ the   chance   to   experience   excellent   ーツ相当の保険ポリシーが贈られる。昨年の優勝 JRO¿QJIDFLOLWLHVDW$OSLQH*ROI5HVRUW 者にはマレーシアゴルフツアーが贈られ、今年は too.  Chiang  Mai  can  also  promote  its   さらに大きな大会となる。6月12日にスタート charming   tourist   attractions,   art   and   し、月に一回のペースで7月9日、8月13日、9 culture  and  other  businesses,  especially   月10日に行われる。 to  worldwide  golf  players,  who  will  be   informed   that   Chiang   Mai   has   many   ALPINE GOLF RESORT CHIANG MAI high   standard   golf   courses   with   great   16 San Kamphaeng – Baan Thi Rd., accommodations.           San Kamphaeng district, Chiang Mai Nuphat  Pluengprasit,  the  operation   Tel. 0 5388 0888 manager  of  Alpine  Golf  Resort  Chiang   or website: www.alpinegolfresort.com Mai,   informed   that   the  Alpine   Golf    


68

CHECK IT OUT チェックしよう

REVITALIZING SPA PACKAGE @ VILLA MAROC RESORT Villa Maroc Resort, the Moroccan boutique resort on Pranbure beach, presents their ‘Revitalizing Spa Package’ which comes with one night’s stay in a Pool Court Room or Pool Villa, a sumptuous daily breakfast for 2 persons at Casablanca Restaurant, and 60 minute spa treatment for 2 persons per stay. The package rate is 9,000 Baht net for a stay in a Pool Court, or upgrade to a breathtaking Pool Villa for 17,000 Baht net. The package is available until 31st October 2011. For more information Tel. 0 3263 0771 or website: www.villamarocresort.com

STEAK PROMOTIONS @ MARCO POLO RESTAURANT Marco Polo Restaurant on the 1st floor, Centara Duangtawan Hotel, offers a special period for steak lovers: a la carte steak menus (t-bone, rib eye, sirloin, lamb chops and other fine grills) start from 170 Baht++ per serving from 11 a.m. - 10.30 p.m. Furthermore, there is a steak buffet corner with Italian and Asian buffet dinner every Monday – Thursday, 6 – 10.30 p.m. at 250 Baht++ per person. For more information Tel. 0 5390 5000 or website:www.centarahotelsresorts.com

THE DUCK THAT’S NOT A DUCK From 1st -30th June, Fujian Restaurant in Mandarin Oriental Dhara Dhevi Hotel is staging the Geoduck Promotion. Far from what its name suggests, Geoduck is a large clam and is actually pronounced ‘gooey-duck’. Considered a gourmet food in Japan and Korea, it’s available for Fujian diners to try at both lunch and dinner, starting from 690 Baht. For those who enjoy premium Chinese cuisine, don’t miss out. Dining hours: 11.30 a.m. - 2.30 p.m. and 6.30 – 10.30 p.m. For more information Tel. 0 5388 8888 or website: www.mandarinoriental.com/chiangmai


CHECK IT OUT

MAMOUNG HOW MANOW HO ICE CREAM @ SMOOCH ANGLE Smooch Angle by Proud Phu Fah Resort is introducing its new ice cream ‘Mamoung How Manow Ho’, a fusion ice cream of mango and lemon, with 0% fat and fresh fruits. Current promotion: order 2 scoops for just 69 Baht (normally 45 Baht per scoop). Try it at 2nd floor, Central Plaza Chiang Mai Airport. What’s more, Proud Phu Fah Resort offers 10% discount for food and rooms from now until 30th September, 2011. For more information Tel. 0 5387 9389, 0 5387 9286 or website: www.proudphufah.com

SPECIAL GIFT @ SIAM ROYAL ORCHID From now until 30th June, purchase up to 1,990 Baht at Siam Royal Orchid Shop, 1st floor Northern Village, Central Plaza Chiang Mai Airport, and get a free the beautiful 100% cotton orchid design hand-screened t-shirt. Furthermore, don’t forget to see the new collections of the unique nature jewelry at its shop and showroom on Charoen Prathet Road. For more information Tel. 0 5324 5598 or website: www.siamroyal.com

GOLDEN CAVIAR FACIAL TREATMENT WITH FREE HOT OIL MASSAGE @ OASIS SPA Oasis Spa offers the age-defying, 60 minute Golden Caviar Facial Treatment for only 2,900 Baht++ plus a FREE Aromatherapy Hot Oil Massage. This hour-long massage will rejuvenate and pamper the rest of your body and leave you feeling soft and silky. The caviar also helps firm your skin and deeply hydrates it with protein and powerful antioxidants to reduce fine lines and wrinkles. Available only at Oasis Spa locations until 30 June. For more information Tel. 0 5392 0121 or website: www.chiangmaioasis.com

69


70

格安ホテル案内

BUBGET HOTEL  DIRECTORY

VIANGBUA MANSION

B2 PREMIER HOTEL

COME ON PLACE BED & BREAKFAST

THE XYM BOUTIQUE APARTMENT

This budget hotel offers high standard service like a forefront hotel. There are also swimming pools and Presidential Suite for those who prefers luxury stay. The west side features panoramic view Superior starts at 900 Baht per night, of Doi Suthep. It is also located near Chiang Mai Night Safari and 10 minutes included breakfast. Viang Bua Road, behind Thanin to Chiang Mai Airport. Price starts at 750 Baht per night. Market Tel. 0 5341 1202 or www.viangbua- Canal Rd., T. Suthep Tel. 0 5332 9333 or www.b2hotel.com mansion-chiangmai.com This friendly serviced apartment in Lanna style features high standard of hotel service, hi-speed wireless Internet and other accommodations. It offers both daily and monthly stays.

Located next to Suan Buak Haad Park downtown, this fully furnished guesthouse features tranquil and quiet atmosphere with nice decorations. Price starts at 800 Baht per night. Bamrungburi Rd., T. Phra Singh Tel. 0 5327 8936 or www.comeonplace.net AIRPORT RESIDENT

This is a new boutique apartment located near Chiang Mai Old Cultural Center on Wua Lai Road. See more details of this hotel at SLEEP column. Price starts at 650 Baht, exclude breakfast. Tel. 0 5327 5527-9

This budget but luxury hotel is situated near Chiang Mai International Airport, Central Plaza and Airport Business Park. Price starts at 490 Baht per night. Mahidol Rd., Soi 1, T. Hai Ya THAPAE BOUTIQUE HOUSE Tel. 0 5320 1951 Located on Tha Pae Road, Thaor www.airportresident.com pae Boutique House offers a peacful EURASIA HOTEL surroundings at the heart of Chiang The 32 suites in the main building are Mai old city, opposite Sunday Walking also enclosed with tropical, impressive Street Market gardens and have private balconies. Price starts at 950 Baht a night with Room service, wireless Internet access, breakfast and free WIFI. and posh comfort are staples here. 4 Soi 5 Tha Pae Rd., T.Chang Klan, Price Starts at 850 baht per night Muang Chiang Mai 1 Likkasithradvidhee Road Nong Pakrag Tel. 0 5328 4295 or www.thapaebouMuang, Chiang Mai tiquehouse.com Tel. (66 5) 324 7790-6 Email : chiangmai@eurasiahotels.com

CHIANG MAI BOUTIQUE HOUSE

Managed by XCEED Hotel Group, Chiang Mai Boutique House is a new stylish boutique hotel on Ratchapakhinai Road. The hotel is located Pratu Chiang Mai Market and Saturday Walking Street Market; it offers 32 rooms, salted swimming pool and more accommodations. Price starts at 950 Baht a night with breakfast and free WIFI. 2 Ratchapakhinai Rd., T. Phra Singh, Muang Chiang Mai Tel. 0 5327 9391-3 or www.chiangmaiboutiquehouse.com

ROYAL PENERAI HOTEL

Managed by Royal Peninsula Hotel team, Royal Penerai Hotel offers excellent service, security, clean and convenience. It has 136 luxury guestrooms. Price starts at 799 Baht per night, Near JJ Market Tel. 0 5323 4567 or www.royalpeninsulahotel.com ECO RESORT CHIANG MAI

Eco Resort Chiang Mai, an affiliated of Imm Hotel Group, offers value accommodations for the nature lovers. With ecological and environmental awareness, the hotel creates the services and designs that cater to the basic needs of discoverers. Price starts only 250 Baht++ per bed for shared room. Bamrungrad Rd., T. Wat Kate, Muang Chiang Mai Tel. 0 5324 7111 or www.ecoresortchiangmai.com


BUDGET HOTEL DIRECTORY


Thai Airways International

Chiang Mai Office : Tel. 0 5392 0920 Bangkok Office : Tel. 0 2356 1111 www.thaiairways.com

FLT.

FLT.

DP.

AR.

DAY

FROM BANGKOK TO CHINGMAI t1(   DAILY t1(   DAILY t1(   DAILY t1(   DAILY FROM CHIANGMAI TO BANGKOK t1(   DAILY t1(   DAILY t1(   DAILY FROM BANGKOK TO LAMPANG t1(   DAILY FROM LAMPANG TO BANGKOK t1(   DAILY FROM BANGKOK TO PHUKET t1(   DAILY t1(   DAILY t1(   DAILY t1(   DAILY t1(   DAILY FROM PHUKET TO BAGNKOK t1(   DAILY t1(   DAILY t1(   DAILY t1(   DAILY t1(   DAILY FROM CHIANGMAI TO SAMUI t1(   DAILY t1(   DAILY FROM SAMUI TO CHIANGMAI t1(   DAILY FROM CHIANGMAI TO PHUKET t1(   DAILY FROM BANGKOK TO LUANG PRABANG t1(   DAILY t1(   DAILY FROM LUANG PRABANG TO BANGKOK t1(   DAILY t1(   DAILY

DP.

AR.

FROM CHIANG MAI TO BANGKOK t5(   t5(   t5(   t5(   t5(   t5(   t5(   t5(   t5(   FROM BANGKOK TO CHIANG MAI t5(    t5(    t5(    t5(    t5(    t5(    t5(    t5(    t5(    t5(    CHIANG MAI TO PHUKET t5(   

DAY DAILY DAILY DAILY DAILY DAILY DAILY %BJMZ %BJMZ %BJMZ %BJMZ %BJMZ %BJMZ %BJMZ %BJMZ %BJMZ %BJMZ %BJMZ %BJMZ %BJMZ %BJMZ

DMJDLXXXUIBJBJSXBZTDPN Kan Airlines

Chiang Mai Office : Tel. 0 5328 3311 Bangkok Office : Tel. 0 2551 6111 www.kanairlines.com

FLT.

DP.

AR.

DAY

FROM CHIANG MAI TO PAI t,/%  FROM PAI TO CHIANG MAI t,/%  FROM CHIANG MAI TO CHIANG RAI t,/%   t,/%  CHIANG RAI - CHIANG MAI t,/%  t,/%  CHIANG MAI â&#x20AC;&#x201C; NAN t,/%  NAN â&#x20AC;&#x201C; CHIANG MAI t,/% 

DMJDLXXXLBOBJSMJOFTDPN


“Ÿ•«›‘Ю“


74


76

他に何

What Else  ?               Chiang  Mai Accommodations 3BUUBOBJ    8#PVUJRVF4UVEJP  "MM4FBTPO   "NBSJ3JODPNF  "NPSB3ZEHFT   "OPNB#PVUJRVF)PUFM "U/JNBO   "U1JOHOBLPSO   "ZBUBOB)BNMFU  #1SFNJFS   #BO4BFO%PJ 4FF1   #BBO4JOHLIBN   #BBO5B[BMB   #BOUIBJ7JMMBHF   #IPEJ4JSFOF   #1$IJBOH.BJ   #VBSBXPOH   $FOUBSB%VBOHUBXBO  4FF1

$IBDPBIPVTF   $IJBOH.BJ#PVUJRVF)PVTF $IJBOH.BJ(BSEFO  $IJBOH.BJ(BUF  $IJBOH.BJ(SBOEWJFX $IJBOH.BJ)JMM   $IJBOH.BJ)PMJEBZ  $IJBOH.BJ0SDIJE  $IJBOH.BJ1IVDPNF  $IJBOH.BJ1MB[B  $IJBOH.BJ3BUUBOBLPTJO $PNF0O3FTJEFODF  (4FF1

%F-BOOB  %F/BHB  %VTJU%  %PXO5PXO*OO  &VSBOB#PVUJRVF  'VSBNB  ))PUFM  )PMJEBZ(BSEFO  )PMJEBZ*OO  )PUFM.  *NN)PUFM *NN&DP  ,BOUBSZ)JMMT  ,BMBSF/JHIU#B[BBS ,FUBXB  -BOOB.BOUSB  -BOOB1BMBDF  -F.FSJEJFO  -PUVT1BOH4VBO,BFX .BOEBSJO0SJFOUBM %IBSB%IFWJ  .BMJO3FTJEFODF .FSDVSF  .P)PUFM  /BLPSOQJOH1BMBDF /BXBSBU$IJBOH.BJ 1BOWJNBO  1BSL)PUFM  1JOH/BLBSB  1MBN4QSJOHT 

                            

1PSO1JOH 1PSJQJNBO

  

4FF*OTJEFGSPOUDPWFS

3BDIBNBOLIB 4FF1 

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

:BOUBSBTJSJ   :FTUFSEBZ   :.$"*OUFSOBUJPOBMIPUFM  

Resorts "OH,IBOH/BUVSF  #BBO%FWB.POUSB 4FF1  #FMMF7JMMB   #PUBOJD3FTJEFODF  'POEDPNF   'PVS4FBTPOT   (SFFO-BLF   )PSJ[PO   *NQFSJBM$IJBOH.BJ +JSVOH3FTPSU   ,BSFO)JMM5SJCF-PEHF  ,,(BSEFO   -BOOB3FTPSU   .BFSJN-BHPPO)PUFM  /JHIU4BGBSJ   1SPVE1IV'BI   3BXFFXBSFF   4JSJMBOOB   4VBO#VB3FTPSU 

5BP(BSEFO 7EBSB  7FSBOEB

    

Service Apartments "JSQPSU3FTJEFOU $IJBOH.BJ1BDJöD.BOTJPO )VBZLBFX3FTJEFODF -F7JOH1JOH  .Z)JQ$POEP  4JMWFSTBOE)PVTF 4UVEJP4FSWJDFE 5IF"JSQPSU(SFFOFSZ

       

4FF1

5IF(SBOE/BQBU  5IF4IJOF 4FF1   5IF9ZN   7JBOHCVB.BOTJPO 4FF1 

Car Rental & Tour "7*43FOU"$BS 4FF1  #VEHFU  $IJBOH.BJ$BS3FOU $IPJDF$BS3FOU  .BOJU5SBWFM  .BTUFS$BS3FOUBM /PSUI8IFFMT  4FF$IJBOH.BJ.BQ

5IBJ3FOU"$BS 

       

Gallery ","(BMMFSZ  +BOH.VFOH  -B-VOB  7JDIJU4UVEJP 4FF1 

   

Shopping $FOUSBM1MB[B$."JSQPSU  4FF1

++.BSLFU 4FF1  3JNQJOH4VQFSNBSLFU 5IF1MB[B  8JOF(BMMFSZ 4FF1 

   

Furniture & Decorative items "LBDBTB   &BSUI'JSF$POUFNQPSBSZ$FMBEPO     'BJ/HBN 4FF1   1B,FS:BX 4FF1   5BXBO%ÏDPS 4FF1   5IF7JMMBHF4IPQ 

Pottery & Ceramic #BBO$FMBEPO 4FF1  %PZ%JO%BOH1PUUFSZ 4FF1

*OESB0VUMFU  4JBN$FMBEPO  4FF$IJBOH.BJ.BQ

 

 


78 äžżĺ&#x2C6;Šă Şé&#x203A;ťčŠąç&#x2022;Şĺ?ˇ Antiques #BO$IBOH$PNF 4FF1   %FTJBN 4FF1  

Silver, Jewelry & Textile %BZBTIPQ  4JBN3PZBM0SDIJE

 

4IJOBXBUSB5IBJ4JML



4FF1

Restaurants "LBNPO 4FF1   "VCFSHF$IJBOH.BJ  #SJY#BS3FTUBVSBOU  (JOHFS$BGF 4FF1   ,BFOHSPO#BBO4VBO3FTUBVSBOU 4FF1    ,IVO.PST$VJTJOF  -BQJO   -FDPREPS$IJBOH.BJ  4FF1

-FDSZTUBM3FTUBVSBOU 4FF*OTJEF#BDL$PWFS

1BTUB$BGĂ?(4FF1 

4BFOLIBN5FSSBDF

(4FF1

4BIBSB(4FF1  

4BNTFOWJMMB$IJBOH.BJ 4VOGMPXFS$IJOFTF3FT 5BSBCBS  5JHFS,JOHEPN*O5PXO 5IF(PPE7JFX 

4FF*OTJEF'SPOU$PWFS

        

5IFIPVTF  5IF*NQFSJBM4IB#V 5IF3JWFSTJEF3FTUBVSBOU 5IF4UFBL)PVTF  4FF*OTJEF#BDL$PWFS

   

4QB.BOUSB(4FF1  5IF0BTJT4QB(4FF1  -BOOB$PNF4QB

  

Spa

Miscellaneous -BP"JSMJOFT(4FF1  4PGJB4IPQ  9$FOUFS(4FF1 

  

Next to the parking building of Ton Lamyai Market, there is a local bus station where you can ride a minibus or cab to many districts in the province as well as Lamphun. All bus leaves every 15 minutes.

3FE$BC to anywhere started at 20 Baht

#MVF$BC UP-BNQIVO

( There are also shuttle buses with air-condition from Chiang Mai to Lamphun for 20 Baht) 

8IJUF$BC

to Bo Sang in San Kamphaeng district and to Doi Saket district

:FMMPX$BC

to Mae Rim district

(SFFO$BC

to Mae Jo in San Sai district

Consulates

Useful  Telephone   Numbers

#SJUJTI$POTVMBUF $BOBEJBO$POTVMBUF $IJOFTF$POTVMBUF  'JOOJTI$POTVMBUF  'SFODI$POTVMBUF  (FSNBO$POTVMBUF  *OEJBO$POTVMBUF  +BQBOFTF$POTVMBUF  4XFEJTI$POTVMBUF  64$POTVMBUF 

Telephone Information

%JSFDUPSZ"TTJTUBODF *OUFSOBUJPOBM-POH %JTUBODF4FSWJDF *OUFSOBUJPOBM-POH %JTUBODF 0QFSBUPS

%PNFTUJD-POH %JTUBODF4FSWJDF  *ODMVEJOH.BMBZTJB"OE7JFOUJBOF

%PNFUJD-POH%JTUBODF $IJBOHNBJ"SDBEF#VT4UBUJPO     $IBOHQVBL#VT4UBUJPO $IJBOHNBJ3BJMXBZ4UBUJPO         #BOHLPLT1SJODJQBM3BJMXBZ4UBUJPO         

Samui Accommodations ,JSJLBZBO-VYVSZ  1PPM7JMMBT4QB ,JSJLBZBO#PVUJRVF3FTPSU $IBXFOH#FBDI #FTU8FTUFSO4BNVJ  #BZWJFX3FTPSU4QB $IBXFOH#MVF-BHPPO  $IBXFOH$PWF3FTPUFM  5IF*TMBOE3FTPSU4QB      4BNVJ'JSTU)PVTF  *CJT4BNVJ#PQIVU  "MhT3FTPSU   #VEEZ4BNVJ#PVUJRVF)PUF    

Tourism

5PVSJTN/FXT0GGJDF 5"5OPSUIFSOSFHJPO $/9          1SPWJODJBM1VCMJD3FMBUJPO      $IJBOH.BJ.VOJDJQBM  5PVSJTN0GGJDF  

Spa

Emergency Numbers

"OPEBT4QB  #BBO5BMJOH/HBN4QB #BOEBSB4QB  #BO4BCBJ4VOTFU#FBDI #P1IVU4QB  &SBOEB)FSCBM4QB 5BNBSJOE4QSJOHT

5PVSJTU1PMJDF       $JUZ1PMJDF'PSDF .PCJMF1PMJDF  "NCVMBODF1PMJDF  'JSF#SJHBEF .BJO1PMJDF4UBUJPO  3FTDVF'PVOEBUJPO  7FIJDMF5IFGU1PMJDF  5SBGGJD"DDJEFOUT 

Luang  Prabang

Police Stations

Accommodations

5PVSJTU1PMJDF                 )JHIXBZ1PMJDF  .VBOH%JTUSJDU  $IBOH1IVL%JTUSJDU

Hospitals

      

(SBOE-VBOH1SBCBOH  -F#FM"JS#PVUJRVF3FTPSU -B3FTJEFODF1IPV7BP   5IF#FMMF3JWF   7JMMB#BO-BP   7JJMB4BOUJ)PUFM3FTPSU  (4FF1



$IBOHLQVBL)PTQJUPM  $IJBOH.BJ$FOUSBM.FNPSJBM      $IJBOH.BJ3BN)PTQJUBM (MPCBM%PDUPS   -BOOB)PTQJUBM  .BIBSBK/BLPSO1JOH 4VBO%PL )PTQJUBM .D$PSNJDL)PTQJUBM /BLPSOQJOH)PTQJUBM 1SBDIBXFT)PTQJUBM 3BKDIBXFU)PTQJUBM  3VBNQBUI  

          Others  Places "ZBSB(SBOE1BMBDF  1JUTBOVMPL %PZ%JO%BOH(4FF1         4BMJM)PUFM (4FF1    4IBOHIBJ.BOTJPO(4FF1  501MBOE)PUFM   7JMMB.BSLFU   8BOHDPNF)PUFM(4FF1 


SUVANNAPHOUM MAGAZINE JUNE  

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