3 20 1 Annual Report
2013 ANNUAL REPORT Global action through Fashion (GATF) is a non- profit founded with the vision to create a more equitable and sustainable world through fashion. We provide education & informational resources for consumers, producers & fashion industry professionals.
Consumers are the most powerful asset in shaping a better world; their decisions drive the behavior of corporations whose supply chains directly affect lives of millions and the health of our planet. GATF works to help consumers realize that power and use it to drive positive social and environmental change. in addition, GATF seeks to equip fashion producers to respond to that demand quickly, efficiently, and effectively by providing innovative open source solutions and a database of information.
www.globalactionthroughfashion.org
Global Action Through Fashion Annual Report 2013 Published by Global Action Through Fashion Designed by Debbie Berryhill for thedesignerlab.com in conjunction with Global Action Through Fashion
Global action throuGh Fashion AnnuAl RepoRt 2013
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Letters from the Founders a n d A dv is o r y B oa r d c h a i r
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A b o u t G lo b a l A c t io n T h r o u g h F as h io n ( G AT F )
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t h e f i r st b ay a r e a e t h ica l fas h io n n ig h t april 4, 2010
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10 1 6 the 25th street collective, october 5, 2010
r ec o n st r u c t , r e i n ca r n at e , and re-cool yo u r t - s h i rt w i t h gat f , j u n e 24, 2010
8 1 2010 Programs a n d P r oj ec ts
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the future of cotton farm tour. november 4,2010
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O n l i n e r e s o u rc e a n d n e ws s o u rc e ( t h e w e b si t e )
17 u n i v e r si t y C o l l a b o r at io n
l ec t u r e s e r i es and c o n f e r e n c es
18 23 Team
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wo r k s h o p s
F u t u r e G oa ls fo r G lo b a l A c t io n T h r o u g h F as h io n
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24 a dv is o r y t e a m
25 2 0 1 0 F i n a n c es
26 2 0 1 1 b ec o m e a pa rt n e r
27 gat f pa rt n e r s , a l l i es , a n d c o l l a b o r ato r s
Global action throuGh Fashion AnnuAl RepoRt 2013
“While we may be sick of hearing about green, one thing’s for sure — it’s not going away anytime soon. the bay area’s own Global Action Through Fashion is keeping eco-friendly fun and relevant with fashion events...the nonprofit do-gooders offer educational workshops and networking events as well, so keep your eye on their calendar and know you’ve done your part to create a healthier world.” – Named “Best of San Francisco 2010” by San Francisco’s 7x7 Magazine
Letter from the Founders
It‘s hard to believe that only one year has
ly grateful to them and our sponsors for their
the world of individual consumers.
passed since we started Global Action
support. We are confident that ethical fashion
number of for-profit social enterprises with
Through Fashion. We have made great
is the “gateway drug” to consumer supply
environmental and social missions is on the
strides in furthering our mission to make the
chain consciousness. By opening people
rise, but for-profits alone are not enough. In
world a better place through fashion and
up to the realities of where their most prized
the for-profit realm of ethical fashion, Global
we have done it on a shoestring budget of
and fashionable garments come from, who
Action Through Fashion is the facilitator of
less than $20,000. We created a compre-
makes them, and what they are made of,
growth and the moral compass of the ethical
hensive online database of ethical fashion
people will begin to think about the impact
fashion industry. Endless thanks to everyone
resources, brought together thousands of
of their purchases on the world. Our work in
who believed in us and continues to have
practitioners to learn from each other, began
ethical fashion fosters and guides the growth
faith in our work. Our success is only possi-
working on a documentary film, and man-
of sustainable and ethical marketplaces. We
ble through your continued support.
aged dozens of programs striving to improve
strive to provide comprehensive technical
Domenica Peterson & Grant Ennis,
the world through fashion. Our dedicated
assistance regarding ethical supply chains
Founders Global Action Through Fashion
and mostly volunteer team has worked hard
to producers and to provide resources and
to achieve our shared goals. We are deep-
information to the fashion community and
The
Message from the Advisory Board Chair The importance of networking to support,
importance of GATF in interpreting and pro-
ethical fashion resources. I am honored to
educate, and instill the morals and values
claiming the change that fashion must make
be working with Tierra, Anthony, Lynda, and
of sustainable product development to the
to sustain humanity and the environment is
Morten on the advisory board as we support,
global society are at the core of the mission
paramount. In their first year, Domenica and
advise and work with GATF.
of Global Action Through Fashion (GATF).
Grant have reached out and connected a
Dr. Connie Ulasewicz, Advisory Board Chair
The act of getting dressed is a process we
global network of followers and leaders to
Global Action Through Fashion Domenica
each participate in, often several times a
assist in this challenge. Their work in 2010
Peterson & Grant Ennis, Founders
day, as we change clothes between roles
has touched thousands, and their capacity
Global Action Through Fashion
and activities. Fashion is an enabling pro-
to meet their critical objectives for next year
cess that allows us the opportunity to adapt
is within reach. The website they created is
to the changing world around us. The vital
outstanding, with particular attention to the
Global action throuGh Fashion AnnuAl RepoRt 2013
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about Global Action Through Fashion (GATF) The $450 billion global fashion industry is one of the most important sectors of the global economy, creating jobs and clothes for people all over the world. Unfortunately, as of 2007, only $3 billion or half of one percent of this $450 billion is fair trade or environmentally sustainable. The reality of the industry is that many individual producers in the developing world work long hours under strenuous conditions for pennies on the dollar, far less than a living wage. The products they make are often produced using unclean energy sources and environmentally damaging materials and processes. Lack of consumer awareness and insufficient industry know-how allow these problems to continue and worsen. Global Action Through Fashion is a 501(c)(3) non-profit organization that strives to facilitate and catalyze an ethical fashion movement in order that consumers and producers alike become a driving force in achieving global, sustainable development. Consumers are generally unaware of how the clothing they buy hurts the environment or how its production exploits the laborers who made it. The fashion industry needs increased access to tools and support in using them, and consumers need to know what they are buying. By promoting consumer awareness and providing technical assistance to producers in the industry, we can bring about a shift in the way the world works by making production and consumption more ethical. Through education, industry building, and consulting, we aim to provide producers and consumers with best practices and resources needed to make global change. GATF provides education and informational resources for consumers, producers, and fashion industry professionals as well as lectures, e-resources, videos, international conferences and state of the industry reports. These programs and workshops serve to build the ethical fashion. industry and allow it to grow its impact in the world. Large retailers and brands, through their sheer scale, have the greatest capacity to improve the lives of workers and protect the planet. By making their businesses more sustainable, they can create models for best practice in the fashion industry and have a positive impact on our world. While the industry currently advocates ethical fashion through a number of pioneering blogs, magazines, and organizations, GATF goes a step further to serve as the hub for key information and resources regarding ethical fashion. Furthermore, the content delivered by most ethical fashionindustry advocates often unquestionably praises the growing ethical fashion community of for-profit companies. GATF maintains an objective and critical posture, serving as the moral compass and information hub of this emerging industry and providing producers and consumers with valuable knowledge and best practice guidelines.
Global action throuGh Fashion AnnuAl RepoRt 2013
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GATF is a 501(c)(3) non-profit organization financed entirely through tax deductible donations of generous donors such as yourself or others you may know. This is both a challenge and an opportunity. We do not sell clothes, run profitable fashion shows, or compete in the industry for market share. While this means it is often a struggle to finance our work, we do not face the conflicts that arise from following profits and a bottom line. Instead, we are able to focus one hundred percent on our mission to make the world a better place and provide an honest and unbiased perspective about the state of the industry and best practices. Fashion and consumerism create waste. Ethical, recycled or fair trade goods do not always have a positive impact and there are serious challenges to associating “buy� with positive impact to the world. We address these concerns as a non- profit and aspire to serve as the industry’s barometer for conscious consumerism.
Global action throuGh Fashion AnnuAl RepoRt 2013
A f i r s t i n S a n F r a n ci s c o , GAT F ’ s F i r s t B ay A r e a E t h ica l F a s h io n N ig h t b r o u g h t to g e t h e r 4 0 0 k e y e t h ica l fa s h io n s ta k e h o l d e r s u n d e r o n e r o o f to l e a r n f r o m e ac h ot h e r , c o n n ect , a n d fo s t e r a c o m m u n i t y . I n d u s t ry p r o f e s s io n a l s a n d c o n s u m e r s ca m e to g e t h e r fo r t h e u lt i m at e n ig h t o f n e t w o r k i n g a n d l e a r n i n g at t h e H u b S o M a i n t h e S a n F r a n ci s c o C h r o n ic l e b u i l di n g . P a rt ici pa n t s l e a r n e d f i r s t - h a n d a b o u t t h e i n t r icaci e s , c o m p l e x i t i e s a n d o p p o rt u n i t i e s i n e t h ica l fa s h io n , f r o m fa i r t r a d e a p pa r e l p r o d u ct io n i n P e r u to r e fa s h io n i n g h o s pi ta l s c r u b s i n to s t u n n i n g c o u t u r e g o w n s . E v e ry d e ta i l a l ig n e d w i t h t h e va l u e s o f e t h ica l fa s h io n . S p o n s o r s g e n e r o u s ly p r ov i d e d o rga n ic , lo ca l a n d fa i r t r a d e fo o d a n d b e v e r ag e s , i n c l u di n g
VeeV
Vodka,
A lt e r
Eco
C h o c o l at e ,
M at e
Veza
Beer,
A di n a
B e v e r ag e s ,
FairHills
Wine,
and
S tacy
S c ot t
C at e r i n g ,
2013 Programs and Projects Seventeen
The First Bay Area Ethical Fashion Night. April 4, 2010
for-profit
ethical
fashion
participants included Indigenous De-
improving the global apparel industry.
companies, non- profits, and academ-
signs, Escama Studio, PACT, Vagadu,
At the First Bay Area Ethical Fashion
ic institutions networked and educated
Stuart+Brown, VIE PR, Eco Citizen Bou-
Night, we achieved producers together
participants about how their work pos-
tique, Medium Reality, Teens Turning
to meet and collaborate. We created
itively impacts the world. Visual media
Green, Blank Verse Jewelry, The San
the opportunity for leaders to meet on
discussed the challenges and opportu-
Francisco Academy of Art, California
a large scale and, as a result, new
nities of ethical fashion, fair trade, social
College of the Arts and San Francisco
partnerships formed.
entrepreneurship, and more. The goal
State University. Participants left with a
of the night was twofold: first, to educate
greater understanding regarding the
GATF is particularly passionate about
people about the many approaches
impact of their fashion choices on the
empowering students who are the future
one could take as a consumer or a
planet. Professionals left with increased
of the fashion industry. It was our goal
producer to have a positive impact on
understanding
of the opportunities
that students would not only learn at
the world through fashion; and second,
available to improve industry practic-
our event but also feel ownership of it.
to create a community where these
es with the knowledge that the support
University of the Pacific researched and
companies and institutions could work
network was in place to follow through
created a display on Social Entrepre-
together to create change. Participants
and
neurship and Fashion. San Francisco
implement
those
changes.
had the opportunity to speak with in-
State University created an interactive
dustry leaders one-on-one to learn,
The location in San Francisco was ide-
map for participants to learn about what
network and collaborate. Discussions
al. San Francisco is a recognized hub
part of the world their clothing came
ranged from the complex, such as
for the Green movement, social initia-
from. California College of the Arts and
how fair trade supply chains can help
tives, and socially and environmen-
San Francisco Academy of Art featured
thousands of producers get themselves
tally responsible design. The problem
innovative designs and educational
out of poverty, to a simpler explanation
facing San Francisco is that there is no
tools created by fashion design stu-
about how used plastic bottles can be-
support network for the ethical fashion
dents. The overwhelming success of
come new clothing. Attendees had the
community and no united movement.
this endeavor established GATF as a
opportunity to handle environmentally
There is very little opportunity for dif-
leader in the community. Four hundred
responsible fabrics and learn about the
ferent actors to network, collaborate,
participants left engaged, inspired, and
detrimental impact many conventional
share best practices, and work to-
empowered to take action in making the
textiles have on the environment. A few
gether to have significant impact on
world a better place through fashion.
Global action throuGh Fashion AnnuAl RepoRt 2013
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2013 Programs and Projects Reconstruct, Reincarnate, and Re-cool your T-Shirt with GATF. June 24, 2013 Global Action Through Fashion reminds the world that they indeed can reuse, repurpose, up-cycle and recycle. That is something you are unlikely to hear from a for- profit company interested in their bottom line. According to the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency, the 2.5 billion pounds sumer
of postcon-
textile waste in the U.S. represents 10 pounds for every person, most of which goes into land-
fills. The idea that dressing ethically is not only about conscientious buying but also about combining waste and creativity to make new things served as the inspiration for our second project on June 24, 2010.
Everyone owns t-shirts, usually many. They
sell every day in the U.S. alone. At Recon-
garment, participants learned to make some-
are staple items, worn as undergarments,
struct, Reincarnate and Re-cool your T-Shirt,
thing new with it. This keeps old garments
given as gifts at events, and used to convey
a team of tailors and printers helped partic-
out of the landfill and makes something new
messages ranging from what musicians
ipants up- cycle their old t-shirts into some-
without using more resources. Through the
one likes to messages advocating ethical
thing exciting and new. Participants who
reconstruction process, participants learned
fashion choices. The social-environmental
had never before used a needle and thread
how to sew, enabling them to repair, alter, and
statistics on t-shirts alone are shocking. It
learned to turn old t-shirts into new shirts,
prolong the lives of many more garments to
takes about a third of a pound of pesticides
scarves, dresses, hats and more. Partici-
come, saving thousands of gallons of water,
and fertilizers and up to 10,000 liters of water
pants cut fabric, wove fabric, embellished,
and reducing the use of harmful chemicals.
to produce just the cotton to manufacture a
and silkscreened “Global Action Through
Along with cutting, sewing, and refashion-
single t-shirt. This is not even taking into ac-
Fashion� onto t-shirts along with the GATF
ing, ethical fashion designers Joui Turandot
count the chemicals and water poured into
logo and an image of the globe as a heart,
of Vagadu and Dustin Page of Platinum Dirt
the dyeing and finishing process, the carbon
making old clothes into something new.
spoke, educating and inspiring participants.
footprint of shipping that garment around the
This workshop was much more than a fun
They are leading Bay Area ethical fashion
world, the human labor required to sew it to-
evening of arts and crafts. It addressed some
gether, and the impact of all those chemicals
of the solutions to the larger fashion threats
on the people along the production line. An
facing our world. It taught participants to use
overwhelming 1.2 million brand new t-shirts
less for more. Instead of disposing of an old
Global action throuGh Fashion AnnuAl RepoRt 2013
10
“Amid sewing machines, cutting tables and silk screens, the hipster fashion crowd is enthusiastically ripping, braiding, printing and appliqueing their t-shirts into new looks. stopping only to dance a little and flirt (a lot) they listen to speeches from designers from sustainable lines Vagadu and Platinum Dirt, who encourage and inspire the fervor with details of the reconstruction techniques they utilize in their designs. Maybe it was the Veev, but in that moment i wondered if i’d been transported to a marvelous green utopia from the future. and it was a brief shining spot that won’t be forgotten by any of us that attended.”
– Rowena Ritchie, Eco Salon
2013 Programs and Projects Online Resource and News Source (the Website) Throughout the course of this first year, the online presence of Global Action Through Fashion has expanded immensely. The website now provides the most comprehensive critical resources available for producers and consumers, as well as blogs and reporting on the news in ethical fashion. A team of professionals, academics, and writers meticulously update the site, the blogs, and news articles regularly.
The fashion industry is not evil. We believe fashion retailers, large apparel companies, producers, and consumers do want to have a positive impact on the world through fashion but, most of the time, lack the technical know-how. Complicating matters further, ethical fashion is not a black and white field. The many sources of available information are often conflicting and difficult to filter and understand.
There is no single other resource available that helps consumers, fashion retailers, and manufacturers make educated decisions about fashion. For example, what is the best fiber with which to produce a line of t-shirts? What certifications are available for fair trade supply chains stretching from India to the US? What companies produce ethical blue jeans? GATF’s online resource is the solution.
Resources for producers include information about how to reduce their impact on the environment and be fair to people working along the entire production supply chain. The resources include information about fiber production to spinning, weaving, dyeing, cutting, sewing, finishing, shipping and more. This detailed resource outlines the definition of ethical fashion, information about textiles, a guide for all types of social and environmental certifications, resources for sourcing ethically, and links to other great organizations and companies in the field.
Resources for consumers include educational articles about the issues and a guide on how to be an ethical consumer. Many consumers are overwhelmed by what they read about sweatshops and are largely unaware of the environmental impact fashion has on the earth and workers. The website lays it out for them in an understandable way and provides consumers with the information they need to dig deeper and learn more. Also provided is a guide for how consumers can make a positive impact through fashion. This resource covers how to care for your garments (2/3 of the environmental impact of a piece of clothing happens after you buy it!), how to recycle and reconstruct used clothing, and ethical decision-making for shoppers.
The news and blog sections cover issues ranging from the real impact of fur and faux fur on animals and the environment to recent apparel labor riots in Bangladesh and related government policies. Also included is the Week in Review that eloquently sums up the top news each week to keep everyone current with the global fashion industry. A team of industry professionals and academics maintains the news section. The online resource guide addresses one of the biggest obstacles facing consumers and producers: the lack of information and education. This guide provides visitors the opportunity to be educated and empowered to make choices that will positively impact the world.
Global action throuGh Fashion AnnuAl RepoRt 2013
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2013 PROGRAMS AND Projects The Future of Cotton Farm Tour
Conventional cotton cultivation uses large
tries withstand the worst of pesticide’s
turers like Banana Republic, represen-
amounts of toxic chemicals and wastes
evils, making up 25 percent of the world’s
tatives of interior goods companies like
massive quantities of water. It is vital that
pesticide use and experiencing 99 per-
Restoration Hardware, fashion students
we find alternative methods to grow cot-
cent of pesticide-related deaths. Cotton
from California College of the Arts and
ton — one of the world’s most popular
is responsible for the release of at least
San Francisco State, government officials
fibers — which are not harmful to the
$2 billion dollars of chemical pesticide
from the USDA, journalists, fabric suppli-
environment. This project supports that
spraying each year, at least $819 million
ers and more.
future by providing an educational tour
of which is classified as mortally hazard-
of sustainable cotton farms in California’s
ous by the World Health Organization.
This tour is a powerful way to educate
central valley. Hosted by GATF, GAP Inc
In India, home to over one third of the
and advocate to large apparel compa-
and the Sustainable Cotton Project (SCP),
world’s cotton farmers, cotton accounts
nies to switch to better cotton. These tours
participants experienced grass roots
for 54 percent of all pesticides used an-
have informed large companies which
sustainable cotton growing. The tour in-
nually despite occupying just five percent
now use better farming practices and
cluded industry professional speakers,
of land under crops. This is an enormous
serve as a great tool for educating em-
university professors, and discussion
problem. With organic products and
ployees and management about the im-
facilitators who introduced participants to
practices, less chemicals, and improved
portance of reducing water and chemical
the growing and critical field of sustain-
watering systems, a solution is in sight.
use in cotton cultivation and the fashion
able fabrics.
industry. On the Sustainable Cotton Farm tour,
15
Current consumption of cotton is higher
participants visited farms, cotton growers,
than ever before, with annual demand
ginning facilities, watched cotton harvest-
over 25 million tons. Ten percent of all
ing, and heard local doctors speak about
chemical pesticides and 22 percent of all
health issues related to cotton growing
insecticides go into growing cotton. The
and pesticides. The two full buses of par-
World Health Organization estimates at
ticipants ranged in backgrounds. There
least 20,000 farmers die each year from
were small-scale fashion designers, rep-
agricultural pesticides. Developing coun-
resentatives of large clothing manufac-
Global action throuGh Fashion AnnuAl RepoRt 2013
2010 ProgrAms and ProjeCTs
The 25th Street Collective. October 5, 2010
In order to foster a local community of ethical fashion producers, Global Action Through Fashion co-founded the 25th Street Collective, an Ethical Fashion and Sustainable Business Incubator in downtown Oakland. Many of the greatest innovations in sustainable design come from small independent designers and recent fashion graduates that have the freedom to risk, to test and to play beyond the limits of the current market. Unfortunately, it is difficult to establish a small design business and it is even harder to sustain one. GATF has teamed up with Hiroko Hurikara Designs to establish a collective studio space and storefront for small sustainable businesses in the Bay Area. This collective will be a center for ethical fashion design and production, and will provide employment opportunities to many throughout the SF Bay Area.
The large, well-lit warehouse space will provide the tools and workspace designers need to support their own sustainable businesses. Part of the space will be a shared commons, including a conference room, a collective sewing space equipped with cutting tables and industrial sewing equipment, a storefront, access to marketing and business services, and a collective set of people with shareable skills and knowledge. The first Friday of every month, the sewing collective will open its doors for the Oakland Art Murmur where thousands of social activists and artists venture through the spaces while providing collective members an opportunity to share their work. Rental space will be available for private workshops in 5x10’, 10x10’, and 20x10’ studios. This space will house small sustainable fashion designers like B Spoke Tailor and Platinum Dirt. The collective will also provide non-profit office space in addition to GATF’s office.
The mobile walls of the space will permit a spacious open area for large workshops and events. GATF will host workshops at the 25th Street Collective on a regular basis, ranging from ethical fashion reconstruction, to environmentally friendly dyeing, methods of evaluating fair trade supply chains and much more. The grand public opening of the space is scheduled for April 2011. It is our goal to empower small fashion designers to have greater impact and create a replicable model for ethical innovation and collaboration.
Global action throuGh Fashion AnnuAl RepoRt 2013
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GATF works to empower and educate fashion’s future leaders by working with university students and academic institutions.
University Collaboration
The future of the fashion industry is cur-
and lectures on Ethical Fashion, and assists
students researched social entrepreneurship
rently in the classroom, in fashion design
faculty to create integrated curriculum on
in the fashion industry and helped hands-on
and merchandising programs around the
ethical fashion. GATF also provides students
at the First Bay Area Ethical Fashion Night. In
world. It is vital that students are empow-
with volunteer and internship opportunities.
the process, they learned about how fashion
ered and provided with the tools they need
GATF provides internships to students and
can be a social entrepreneurial industry and
to integrate sustainability into their studies
recent graduates, giving them professional
related it back to their studies. SFSU students
and future work. In an ideal 2020, ethical
experience and knowledge in the field. In-
created an interactive educational display at
fashion will not be a separate class, but it
terns take ownership of specific projects and
GATF’s First Bay Area Ethical Fashion Night
will be an integrative part of every class
give significant creative input.
that educated and engaged participants
and everyone’s life.
In 2010, GATF presented at the following
about clothing production around the world.
GATF promotes the innovative designs of
Universities: (i) University of the Pacific, (ii)
CCA and San Francisco Academy of Art
students developing the field of ethical fash-
San Francisco State University’s (SFSU) Ap-
University students also presented their sus-
ion. The future of ethical fashion is dependent
parel Design Merchandising program and
tainable design innovations to participants at
upon sustainability as an integrated part of
its Graduate Business program, and (iii)
the First Bay Area Ethical Fashion Night.
fashion. In order for this to be the case, it
California College of the Arts (CCA). GATF
must begin while future fashion designers
founders served as judges in the California
and industry are in the classroom. GATF
College of the Arts sustainability critique for
works to empower and educate fashion’s
fashion students’ designs. GATF collabo-
future leaders by working with university
rated with the University of the Pacific Inte-
students and academic institutions. GATF
grated Development Program to create the
energizes students through presentations
ethical fashion company database. Pacific
Global action throuGh Fashion AnnuAl RepoRt 2013
17
2013 Programs and Projects Lecture Series and Conferences The GATF team lectures on ethical fashion
and Meghan Connolly Haupt of C5 Jewelry
Brazil the weekend of October 9-11, 2010. At
and the role of fashion in making the world a
Company for a panel discussion titled “Eth-
SWU, GATF connected with other specialists,
better place. Along with the multiple universi-
ical Supply Chains in Luxury Goods: Excit-
thinkers, politicians, businesspeople and
ty lectures, GATF has participated in lecture
ing, Green and Fabulous“ in San Francisco.
representatives of NGOs to discuss the main
series and conferences including the Net
The four speakers discussed sustainable
themes of sustainability that affect the world
Impact Lecture series and the Start’s With
supply chain complexities and the chal-
in the 21st century. This Concert-Sympo-
You (SWU) conference in Sao Paolo Brazil.
lenges of starting ethical fashion compa-
sium featured 60 high profile bands includ-
GATF is an active participant in the Net Im-
nies. Participants included apparel industry
ing Dave Matthews Band, Incubus, Kings of
pact lecture series. On May 13th, 2010,
professionals as well as professionals from
Leon, Linkin Park, Os Mutantes, Pixies, Rage
GATF founders Domenica Peterson and
all industries interested in sustainability.
Against the Machine, Regina Spektor and
Grant Ennis joined Heather Franzese of
GATF presented at the Starts With You Glob-
many more.
Fair Trade USA (formerly TransFair USA)
al Sustainability Symposium in Sao Paolo
Workshops Workshops are essential to creating permanent consumer habits. They teach best practices and show how individuals can take action in their own lives. Workshops provide people with the skills and knowledge they need to have a positive impact individually and collectively. In 2010, GATF conducted two ethical fashion workshops in addition to our large t-shirt reconstruction event. These included an ethical fashion jewelry-making course and an ethical fashion workshop for kids. At the “How to Make it Eco” ethical jewelry making class, GATF collaborated with Do Good Lab to show how global change can be made through local eco fashion. Co-founder Domenica Peterson managed a recycled jewelry-making workshop on June 26 with proceeds donated to the kids of the Kenyan non-profit Champions in order to purchase a school building in Nairobi, Kenya. Champions works in Mathare, the oldest slum in Nairobi, second largest in Kenya, and with a population of 700,000 and growing. Thirty participants created jewelry out of waste, including old electronic waste, yogurt containers, and old jewelry pieces. The event took place at Press Club in downtown San Francisco. On November 20, Domenica Peterson taught a class for young girls aged 10-14 on Ethical Fashion in San Francisco. The class began early in the day with a presentation, videos and a question and answer session about what ethical fashion means, what the fashion industry is like, and how to be an ethical fashion consumer. The second part of the day consisted of a trip to purchase environmentally friendly fabric and a sewing class in which the girls realized designs they had prepared and illustrated ahead of time. The purpose of the course was to empower people to integrate sustainability into their fashion consumption habits from a young age while providing them with skills to make their own creations and enabling them to refashion and repair used clothes, extending their life and keeping them out of landfills.
Global action throuGh Fashion AnnuAl RepoRt 2013
18
fUTUre goALs for Global Action Through Fashion GATF plans to go beyond what we have accomplished in our first year. We will continue to host educational lectures and workshops. We are also in discussion with large apparel companies to provide fellowships for recent college graduates to develop innovation in sustainable design that is applicable to large supply chains and retailers.
International Ethical Fashion Conference This first ever ethical fashion conference in alliance with San Francisco State University and California College of the Arts will bring together all of the key local and international actors in ethical fashion. It will be a participant-led conference with plenary and breakout sessions with participant speakers. As an outcome of this conference, GATF is drafting an Ethical Fashion State of the Industry Report. This document will work to unite the ethical fashion community through shared, documented, best practices and increase in the impact of ethical fashion on society and the environment worldwide.
Ethical Fashion State of the Industry Report This comprehensive document aims to unite the ethical fashion community through sharing documented best practices, increasing the impact of ethical fashion on society and the environment worldwide. It will thoroughly outline the social and environmental challenges and opportunities of the fashion industry exhaustively in a format easily accessible to consumers, while staying useful to producers and designers. As a non-profit in a field of for-profit social enterprise fashion companies, we are the likely and ideal candidate to produce this report. Maintaining an objective stance on the issues, we have the knowledge, staff, and expertise to make these documents and others like it centerpieces for the growing field of ethical fashion.
Ethical Fashion Documentary Film, for Release in 2012 The medium of film enables GATF to educate the largest audience possible in order to change perceptions about fashion and consumerism. This documentary will positively inspire and empower the fashion industry, consumers, and hopefully governments to take action through fashion and consumerism. This is a culture of fast fashion, where clothing is readily available as something that is cheap, trendy, and disposable. In October 2010, GATF began filming with cinematographer Mark Leibowitz at London and Milan fashion weeks. The film will not only be delightful and exciting for all people to watch, but it will also highlight the realities of the global fashion industry and inspire action to make the world a better place. The framework of the picture is a provocative series of five questions each triggering a chapter of the tale we have to tell. The answers often turn surprisingly serious with per-
19
Global action throuGh Fashion AnnuAl RepoRt 2013
sonal stories that resonate clearly with the audience. To get a wide range of responses, open ended questions are asked to a broad array of people – from celebrities and top models to men and women on the streets around the world; from workers in garment centers to the CEOs of major corporations. We will ask the rock star, the roadie, and the girl who treasures the T-shirt from the ‘89 Steel Wheels tour. We will ask not just the young women passing the velvet rope at a trendy club, but also the club’s ladies’ room attendant and the valet in the parking lot. The Keith Richards, The Prince Charles, The Lady Gaga, and The Oscar de la Renta or personalities of their standing will all be featured. The method is to find clues that take us deeper into the mystery of what we wear and why, and what that says about our future. Will we accept responsibility for the true costs of our clothing choices? Does it really matter if the clothes we put on our bodies are made with respect for the people who produced them and the environment that protects us all? This documentary film is an international exploration of how the practice of fashion, on an every-day level, from the most public to the most personal, affects the globe’s people and its environment. This film speaks to how we see ourselves, how we want to be seen, and what we most desire. The film empowers the audience, making vital connections between what we wear and how fabrics, trims, and clothes are produced. It aims to reveal how each purchase we make affects the lives of others. The film becomes a call to action, portraying the hidden costs of bargain goods and investigating the global supply chain that can lead from exploitation to elegance. It also shows how fresh choices and expanded awareness can result in permanent and substantial impact. Through the lens of fashion, the consumer economy can change for the better of the environment, and humanity.
Presentations and Lectures at interna-
How-To Guides
tional conferences and Lecture Series
On our website, GATF will provide “How
Facebook and post a question/comment
• San Francisco EcoTuesday
To” manuals on ethical fashion written
so the rest of the community and or GATF
• SF Fashion and Merchants Alliance
by experts in the field.
can post answers.
Blog, Twitter, and Facebook
Technical Assistance
Video Series and YouTube Channel
Our team will actively update our
Gl o bal A c t i o n T h r o u gh Fas h i o n pro-
GATF will upload videos on our YouTube
blog, Facebook, and twitter to keep
vi des t ec h n i c al as s i s t an c e t h at t he
channel about ethical fashion. These will
the public in the loop. In 2011, we
f as h i o n i n du s t r y c an r el y on f or
include interviews with those working in
want to create a community of 5,000
h i gh - qu al i t y i n f o r m at i o n s er vice s f or
the ethical fashion industry, spotlights on
advocates on Facebook interacting
i m pr o vi n g l abo r an d en vi r o n m e nt al
leaders, and latest news on innovation in
with us and telling their story. We will
pr ac t i c es .
the field.
encourage people to come on our
• Many more
Global action throuGh Fashion AnnuAl RepoRt 2013
20
The reALiTy of the fashion industry is that many individual producers in the developing world work long hours under strenuous conditions for pennies on the dollar, far less than a living wage.
TeAm Domenica Peterson, Chief Visionary Officer and Co-founder Domenica’s professional career has focused on using fashion as a tool to solve global problems and she has worked with industry leaders in Fair Trade Fashion. She has led social entrepreneurship organizations, coordinated international aid projects and worked for the U.S. based Fair Trade pioneer TransFairUSA on the first certification standard for Fair Trade apparel and textiles in the US. She worked in London doing public relations for the Fair Trade Fashion label PeopleTree and in Brussels sewing for the couture fashion label NATAN. In addition to GATF, Domenica serves on the SF Global Green Committee and is a contributing writer for Coco Eco Magazine.
Grant Ennis, Chief Operating Officer and Co-founder Grant has over 5 years experience working with international nonprofits both in the field and in the U.S. He has a background in youth livelihood development and microfinance and sees ethical fashion as the ideal framework for promoting supply chain consciousness among consumers.
Laura Russell, Research Associate, and UK Representative Currently working for a large UK apparel company, Laura’s interest in ethical fashion developed during her study at Nottingham Trent University, England in B.A. Fashion and Textile Management. She met Domenica at People Tree and from there became involved with GATF. Laura’s university thesis explored how mainstream fashion companies in particular could adopt fair trade fashion. Laura enjoys dressmaking and constructing items from recycled materials.
Global action throuGh Fashion AnnuAl RepoRt 2013
23
TeAm Continued Melissa Hook, Research Associate Melissa joined Global Action Through Fashion to learn and provide insight on textiles and environmental business consulting. Melissa has worked in the fashion industry as a fashion consultant. She loves to sew and produce designs made of recycled or discarded materials. Melissa graduated fron SF State with Fashion merchandising major and Marketing minor with an emphasis in Environmental Studies.
Kestrel Jenkins, PR and Research Associate Whether the driving force was language or fashion, Kestrel’s interest in global issues has led her around the world. She worked as a journalist with El Diario Austral in Chile, did PR for People Tree in London and taught English to elementary students in Madrid, Spain. She found all of her interests collide in Fair Trade Fashion, where her energy and spirit inspire a thirst to understand more and more about the field. She has a B.A. from Hamline University in Global Studies, International Journalism, and Spanish. Her blog Make Fashion Fair is fantastic. She currently works in NYC at inhabitat.com.
Jo Gruszka, Marketing, and Research Associate Jo’s passion for fashion and desire to impact the world through her work drew her to Global Action Through Fashion. She also works for local SF Bay Area designer Babette and in her free time creates collages of others’ stories. Jo graduated with a BS degree in Apparel Design and Merchandising with a minor in Marketing from SF State.
Adele Reeves, Graphic Designer Adele is passionate about art and Japanese culture. A recent graduate of Ohio State University with a major in Japanese language and a fine art minor, Adele works as GATFs Graphic Designer. She is also an amazing seamstress and plays a key role in assisting at our events.
Global action throuGh Fashion AnnuAl RepoRt 2013
Advisory boArd Under the inspired leadership of Board Chair Connie Ulasewicz, the five-member professional Advisory Board is truly a force to be reckoned with. Our board members provide time, talent and treasure to GATF’s program and operations. The uniqueness of this board, whose experience ranges from academia to business to international development to fashion design and beyond, sets us apart and provides us with invaluable guidance and feedback. Board members also provide resource networking and funding opportunities.
Connie Ulasewicz, San Francisco State University (Board Chair)
Morten Simonsen, Entrepreneur
working for the denim brands Mudd
Morten Simonsen earned his MSc in
this time, Tierra developed an aware-
Trondheim, Norway before completing
ness of the destructive impact that the
Connie Ulasewicz is an Associate Pro-
his MBA from Denver University in 1982.
apparel industry has on the environment
fessor at San Francisco State University
After working in the shipping business in
and the people who make the clothes.
in Apparel Design and Merchandising.
Norway and USA for 25 years, he moved
This awareness motivated her to launch
Her research interests include social
to the SF Bay area in 2006. Morten now
Del Forte Denim Inc. — a line of pre-
entrepreneurship, community engaged
works with several start-up companies
mium denim made from 100% certified
scholarship and extending the lifecycle of
in the area and invested recently in the
organic cotton and produced under eth-
sewn products. She is also co- author of
all-organic restaurant Gather Restaurant
ical conditions in the USA. In 2009, Tier-
the 2008 book Sustainable Fashion Why
in downtown Berkeley. He is also in-
ra joined Fair Trade USA to help launch
Now, and speaks at conferences and
volved in a project in Nicaragua helping
the Fair Trade Certified™ Apparel and
trade shows to spread the word. Connie
the rural poor. Through his network and
Linens pilot program.
has over 25 years of garment industry
business experience, Morten hopes to
experience managing production, mer-
add support to the business perspective
chandising, and sales. She is a founding
of Global Action Through Fashion.
Jeans and Younique Clothing. During
member of ESRAB, Educators for Social
Wear SF, a Bay Area non-profit sewn
Tierra Del Forte, Fair Trade USA
product industry association. Dr. Ulase-
Tierra Del Forte is Senior Manager
wicz earned her BS in Education/ Clothing
Business Development, Apparel, and
and Textiles at Syracuse University, her
Textiles at Fair Trade USA and brings
MS in Historic Textiles at the University of
over a decade of apparel industry ex-
Maryland, and her PhD in Human Devel-
perience to our board. Tierra spent the
opment at Fielding Graduate University.
early years of her career in New York,
Responsibility in Apparel, and people
24
Global action throuGh Fashion AnnuAl RepoRt 2013
of
Advisory boArd
continued
Antony Waller, People Tree Anthony started at Paul Smith, and has since worked at D&G, the Ben Sherman account and is currently Head of Press at the London office of People Tree. Antony knows how to make ethical fashion mainstream, successful, in turn improve the lives of producers, and protect the environment. Antony earned his Fashion PR degree from London College of Fashion and brings over 10 years experience of high fashion, high street fashion, and ethical fashion.
Lynda Grose, Designer, Consultant, and Educator, California College of the Arts Lynda Grose has been working on sustainability in fashion for 20 years. She cofounded ESPRIT’s e-collection line, launched in 1992. This line was the first ecologically responsible clothing line marketed internationally by a major corporation. As a practicing designer, consultant, and educator, Lynda now works in a range of capacities from advising farmers and artisans, to private companies and NGO’s. Lynda has been teaching sustainability in fashion for ten years. She developed the groundbreaking curricula for Fashion Design Sustainability at California College of the Arts (CCA) and currently serves as Assistant Professor in CCA’s fashion design program. Lynda’s is a contributing author to Sustainable Textiles, Woodhouse Publishing and is currently co-authoring the book Fashion Sustainability Incubator, with Laurence King Publishers. A frequent speaker at trade conferences, colleges and museums internationally, Lynda was identified by London’s Financial Times as one of their ‘green power brokers’. She is most passionate about embracing sustainability as the core of innovation and the potential of design to bring form to a sustainable society.
Global action throuGh Fashion AnnuAl RepoRt 2013
fiNANCes
In 2010, year one, $19,570.85 was raised.
15
%
went towards
w e n t di r ect ly i n to p ro g r a m s
48
office rent
%
4
%
went to the IRs or legal corsts
or $1,206 was spent on transportation over the course of the year. this
22
or $4,250 went to payroll, an
insignificant n u m b e r gi v e n the amount of work accomplished. as one can see, little or no remuneration was paid to the staff for their work this year.
%
includes metro, the bus, and gas for the various vehicles used to transport materials, move offices, and get to meetings.
6
%
4
%
went towards administrative costs
G lo ba l A ct io n T h ro u g h F as h io n S p e n di n g Programs/ Projects
$9,314
48%
Administrative CostsUtilities, Internet,Website Costs, Meetings, Rent
$771
4%
Transportation
$1,206
6%
Legal & IRS Fees
$875
4%
Payroll
$4,250
22%
Rent for Office + Ethical Fashion Incubator Project
$2,850
15%
Total
$19,571 100%
Global action throuGh Fashion AnnuAl RepoRt 2013
25
2014 With the support of donors like you, we hope to fundraise over $100,000 more in 2011 in order expand our programs, pay program associates, directors, and positively impact the environment and the lives of workers around the world on a greater scale. as a 501(c)(3) non-profit organization, donations to GatF are tax deductible.
Become a partner of Global Action Through Fashion. Become a member of our advisory board and join an exceptional group of people in enabling our work to scale! • Connect us with the fashion community • Connect us with the philanthropic donor community • Connect us with the international development community and more
ed States, but we do not work alone. As a
Become a Project Sponsor
non-profit organization, we rely on the part-
• $100,000 - Help us grow this year. This
nership of a visionary community of donors
number includes all of the operating costs for
who give to support the growth of ethical
our organization for one year.
fashion. Millions of people — from garment
• $10,000 - Bring the industry together in the
workers in the developing world to local US
same room for the first time and take action
industry — will share the benefits. As an of-
to create a unified movement to make the
ficial 501(c)(3) non-profit organization, dona-
fashion industry better. This money will go
tions to GATF are tax deductible. Here are
toward our international conference, aimed
some of the ways you can give to the future
for Fall 2011.
of Ethical Fashion:
• $5,000 - Support the Bay Area’s largest
Become an Annual Sponsor
and most fun Ethical Fashion experience.
• $25,000 and up - Platinum Sponsors
Be the sponsor of our 2011 Bay Area Ethical
• $10,000 and up - Gold Sponsors
Fashion Night.
• $5,000 and up - Silver Sponsors
• $4,000 - Sponsor a space for us to do our
• $1,000 and up - Bronze Sponsors
work and host workshops and lectures.
Volunteer • Become a full-time writer for GATF working our publications, research, news or blogs • Become an on-call program volunteer for our 1-3 day conferences and workshops
Sponsor Global Action Through Fashion GATF is the leading 501(c)(3) non-profit organization providing educational and infor-
• $100 and up - Friend Sponsors To learn more about sponsorship benefits visit our website at www.globalactionthroughfashion.org.
mational assistance to fashion consumers, manufacturers, and companies in the Unit-
Global action throuGh Fashion AnnuAl RepoRt 2013
26
gATf PArTNers, ALLies, and CoLLAborATors We are extremely grateful to the following donors, advisors, staff members, and volunteers who helped us accomplish so much this year:
27
25th Street Collective
Christine Hilberg
Hunter Tanaous
Mark Leibowitz
Robert Reynolds
The UpToYouToo
Academy of Art
Christy Gerhart
Indigenous Designs
Pictures
Rowena Ritchie
Foundation
University
Coco Eco Magazine
James Pollard
Mate Veza
Ruth Vitale
Tony Glorioso and
Adina Energy
Cordes Foundation
James Toney III
Medium Reality
San Francisco
Brand 46
Beverages
David and Susan
Janet Labberton
Melissa Pongtratic
State University
University of
Adria Peterson
Fetcho
Jean-Marie Stratigos
Meredith Willa
Sallumeh Torabian
the Pacific
Aida Peterson
Debbie Berryhill
Jeffrey Perlstein
Michael Barlow
Schauleh Sahba
Vagadu
Alex Simonsen
Diane Lerman
Jennifer Biringer J
Michele Gates and
SF Indie Fashion
VeeV
Alter Eco
Dorothy Compeau
erry Hildebrand
Fashionbla Fun
Sherry Koyama
Vie PR and
Andrea Cesar
Earthsite
Jessica Welborn
Michelle Forshner
Spencer Ton
Showrooms
Blank Verse
Eco Citizen
John Ruszel
Najia Khan
Sarah Guldenbrein
Vishaka Henrietta
Jewelry
Eco Salon
Josh Friedman
Naomi Feger
& House
Whitney Ferris
Bonnie Greenberg
Ecofabulous
Joy Mackay
Neil Goetz
Stacy Scott Catering
William Reeves
Bonnie Loyd
Escama Studio
Kathryn Tanis
Net Impact
Stewart + Brown
Branch
Fairhills Wine
Kirk E. Peterson &
Nila Salinas
Stockton 2020
California College
Fair Trade USA
Associates
Oak and Co
Stu Newton
of the Arts
Friends of Hue
Kirk Cruikshank
PACT Underwear
SWU (Starts With
Caitlin Bristol
Foundation
Kudra Kalema
Peery Foundation
You)
Caroline Fantozzi
Global Center for
Lane Becker
Peter Labberton
Tatyana Dorokhova
Casey Mixter
Social Entrepre-
Laura Lambrecht
Platinum Dirt
Teens Turning
Catarina Bronstein
neurship
Lessa Manotti
Rainforest Eco
Green
Catherine Markman
Geraldine Rushton
Linda Loudermilk
Raphael Peterson
TempleBar
Celestyna Brozek
Gitika Mohta
Love Culture
Raub Foundation
The Designer Lab
Charles Raub
Green by Design
Mannequin Madness
Rex Righetti
The Hub SoMa
Christina Espinosa
Hub Bay Area
Marco vangelisti
Rickshaw Bagworks
The Ki
Global action throuGh Fashion AnnuAl RepoRt 2013
Cotton is responsible for the release of at least two billon dollars worth of chemical spraying each year.