EAT & DRINK
Verde Restaurant & Bar Despite Verde being a Stanley Street stalwart for the last six years, it had escaped my notice until a “stupendous” review in Gault & Millau’s debut entry into Sydney’s reviewing scene. Expecting something of a fine-diner, I was surprised to find a modern space serving home-style Southern Italian. Chef Antonio Ruggerino explains his menu as “basically what you’d find on my Mother’s table.” He suggests an array INNER WEST The Merton Hotel With “no pokies, and no gambling of any kind,” The Merton Hotel is “very family-oriented,” explains Bar Manager Jake Dylan. After a Peroni ($7.00/schooner) in the cosy front bar, we head to the bistro armed with the 2011 Botanica Chardonnay ($30/bottle). The menu combines the talents of a Thai Head Chef and a Mexican Sous Chef. We settle for Curry Goat ($23) - tender Booma Boers goat meat in a rich, flavoursome Caribbean curry. Tableside Pickapeppa Spicy Mango Sauce adds an element of sweetness to the robust flavours, enhancing Jamaican Jerk Chicken ($22) and Pulled Pork Tacos ($14/3) too. The Betel Leaves ($8/3) convince me to
By Alex Harmon With fear and loathing spreading through the Cross, it is nice to see The Carlisle restore our faith in Sydney drinkers’ humanity. This bar wins my most clever and sexy cocktail title: the Rye An’ Gosling $$ - mains between $15-$22
GREATER SYDNEY Sedap Malaysian Kopitiam Part café, part street-side hawker, this addition to Westfield Eastgardens new Banks Avenue dining precinct offers al fresco dining and paved paths. It feels like an artificial land, even on a busy Thursday evening. We relax into an Ice Coffee ($4) laced with heavenly condensed milk. Crisp Pork Rolls ($4/each) are wrapped in bean curd and come with a delicious garlic chilli sauce, while Szechuan Ribs ($15.80) are finger licking good. Everyone’s favourite Malaysian dish,
of antipasti; my favourite being his Mum’s recipe – hockey puck-shaped Potato and Parsley Fritters ($10). Alongside meaty Warmed Sicilian Olives ($10) in chilli and garlic confit, and tender Chilli Dusted Calamari ($12), they make great drinking snacks against a fruitdriven 2012 Woodlands Margaret River Chardonnay ($52/bottle). Simplistic pastas, like Linguine Vongole ($36) keep crowds of mostly regulars, and lunchtime corporates blessed with hefty expense accounts, coming back. I find it’s outclassed by Pan Fried Snapper with Saffron Pappardelle, Peas, Capers and Butter Sauce ($36). For something more substantial, there’s the Confit of Duck Leg with Herbed Gnocchi and Caramelised Balsamic Pear ($36). While you relax and wait for Anthonio’s Yellow Gum honeydrizzled Buffalo Milk Gelato ($14) (made by his mate at Gelatissimo) to wind things up, check out his black and white family photos, and his wall of owned racehorses, which happily “pay for themselves.” 115 Riley Street, East Sydney (02) 9380 8877 verde.net.au Italian $$$$
return to try the Thai dishes soon. 38 Victoria Road, Rozelle (02) 8065 9577 themertonhotel.com.au Pub Bistro,Wine,Thai, Jamaican $$ Nithik’s Kitchen Hankering for good Indian? This Rozelle gem by Chef Vikram Arumugam (ex-Aki’s) has an innovative and flavoursome menu. Southern Indian Samuthiram ($18.90) is a definite favourite, layering school prawns, crab and rice pancakes with a creamy coconut sauce and a side of Bengalese shrimp, chilli and tomato paste. Tree of Taste ($12.90) gives an oral and artistic demonstration of Vikram’s flavour palate. Great coconut chutney and homemade ghee notches Masala Dosa ($13) above most I’ve tried.Vikram’s curries are all great: from Meen Manga Charu ($25)
The Carlisle Bar
$ - mains less than $15
By Jackie McMillan
of barramundi, coconut and green mango, to labour-intensive lycheestuffed cottage cheese balls Lagaan Ke Kofti ($18) liberally dunked in cashew gravy and scattered with dried fruit. 679 Darling Street, Rozelle (02) 8084 8921 Indian $$-$$$ EASTERN SUBURBS Elmo’s Restaurant Yes, it’s in a club, but this deceptively exciting restaurant is in a glass box overlooking Coogee Beach. Manager Vinni Dias is an excellent guide (and enthusiast) for the traditional end of this Brazilian-influenced Australian menu that includes Pão de Queijo ($8) cheese bread and Sydney Rock Oysters ($18/6) with flavoursome ‘kiss peppers’, lime, Spanish onion,
($18) made with Rye whiskey and Goslings rum, ginger beer and freshly squeezed apple juice. If Sydney’s women weren’t drinking whiskey before, they are now. Once you’ve had your fling, retire to the workman’s bar – a ‘steerage class’ lounge suited to post-work drinking and tapas snacking. The Homemade Haloumi ($14) is out of this world, and sadly out of our reach – made by an 86 year old Greek woman who only dishes it out to three Sydney chefs. Made with real milk (as opposed to powder), it’s the best haloumi I’ve ever had. Tortilla Chips ($16) with a fresh guacamole go hand-inmouth with a Skinny Bitch ($18) cocktail: because excess in denial is the Kings Cross way. Handsome and toothsome is the Spicy Chicken ($16), however the chef isn’t giving any secrets about the sauce away. Luckily he’ll talk you through the Prawn and Calamari ($18) with its three delectable dipping sauces. Don’t be alarmed, the Cross is a beguiling destination – and if you’re really concerned – just call it Potts Point. 2 Kellett St, Kings Cross (02) 9331 0058 thecarlislebar.com.au Bar, Bar Food, Cocktails $$ $$$ - mains between $22-$30
Char Kuey Teow ($12) stacks up well with pork sausage. The Beef Rendang ($14.40) is spot on, but Ice Cendol ($6) ‘green worm’ and mung bean noodles on shaved ice might be just for true Malay enthusiasts. Westfield Eastgardens, Banks Avenue, Eastgardens (02) 9344 7095 sedap.com.au Malaysian $ Minskys Hotel This newly renovated hotel - subtly masculine without being alienating to women – has kept the 1am kitchen. Publican Anthony Brady says: “We want people to like this place.” He’s clearly proud of the new menu by Robert Oey, who
$$$$ - mains over $30
doesn’t forget it’s a pub, but notches up the standards. He delivers a well-rendered Caramelised Pork Belly ($25) with Asian ‘slaw; Crisp School Prawns ($10) that won’t damage your mouth; and great Chicken Liver Pate ($11) with house-made chutney. There’s also a smart, underpriced cocktail list with a Salted Coconut Espresso Martini ($14), plus an Enomatic wine pouring system – great when you need a big glass of Pichot Vouvray Sec ($13/150ml glass, $21/225ml glass). 287 Military Road, Cremorne 9909 8888 minskyshotel.com.au Pub Bistro, Cocktails,Wine $$-$$$
Mille Vini New management and Chef John Lanzafame rattling the pans finally gave me cause to visit this Italian wine bar, which - I’m almost ashamed to admit - has been in operation for over a decade. Better late than never I think, over a warmed skillet of Sambuca Fritti Olives ($6.50) that defied my intense aniseed expectations with compelling, syrupy sweetness. The coriander and palmito. The latter ingredient is a revelation in Baked Palm Heart, Tomato, Chutney, Pimento & Gorgonzola ($16), too. Escondidinho de Cogumelos ($15) delivers four types of mushrooms sautéed in garlic and butter, buried under cassava and cheese; but their biggest hit is Moqueca ($34) a red, coconut-enriched fish and prawn stew – oh and eight-buck Mojitos! Coogee Legion Ex-Service Club, 200 Arden Street, Coogee (02) 9665 8230 coogeelegionclub. com.au/elmos-restaurant/ Brazilian/Modern Australian $$-$$$ DARLO, KINGS X & SURRY HILLS Macleay Street Bistro In an age when restaurants are constantly rebadging, new owners
beautiful heritage-listed space lined with wines does tend to inspire a powerful thirst. I dabbled with a dry yet strawberry-scented 2012 Italian Collefrisio Cerasuolo Rosè ($12/glass), an affable companion to Torta di Melanzane ($16), baked eggplant with tomatoes and buffalo mozzarella. To further illustrate what a friend we have in cheeses, Lanzafame’s Ricotta Infornata ($16) - a slow-baked wheel of ricotta drizzled with green olive salsa - proved another hit. However even it is eclipsed by a decadent Radicchio Salad ($17); dotted with orange segments, walnuts and yes, more cheese (this time goat). It’s easy to see why pairs of women occupy most tables, including my own. We pull back with a shared main of Rigatoni ($24), its chilli bite eased with muscatels, toasted pine nuts and basil, to guarantee room for dessert. Clinking spoons in Meringata ($12) taken in tandem with the 2012 Pizzini Brachetto ($12/glass) ensures we leave smiling. 397 Crown Street, Sydney (02) 9357 3366 millevini.com.au Bar,Wine, Italian $$$-$$$$
Mark Campbell and Phillip Fikkers are swimming against the tide. Patrons for over eighteen years, they bought the restaurant they loved; preserving the spot’s thirty-year history all the way down to the Classic Steak Tartare ($22) – lovingly beaten out tableside by a waiter who’s been there for five years. It sings against the 2011 Framingham Riesling ‘Classic’ ($13/ glass), that’ll also work with new Head Chef Tom Williams’ accessible Chicken Liver Pate ($16). Sous Chef Sophie Heath provides kitchen continuity – and excellent pan-fried Spinach and Ricotta Gnocchi with Sage Beurre Noisette ($24).The serving size leaves space for her simple,White Chocolate Cheesecake ($16) too. 73a Macleay Street, Potts Point (02) 9358 4891 macleaystbistro.com.au Modern French,WIne $$$-$$$$
Old Growler In a basement on the cusp of Kings Cross, this bar has the ambience of a Nick Cave murder ballad with exposed bulbs, flaking walls and an abundance of bearded men. However the menu’s seasonal, the produce is free-range and ethically sourced. The Grass-Fed Beef Burger ($16) is whizzing around the room along with five-buck craft beers by Young Henry’s from 5-7pm.We snack on Haloumi Mozzarella Croquettes ($14), they’re more like balls but let’s not be pedantic - they taste bloody good. So does an elegant Pickled Green Mango ($9) with crushed pumpkin seeds, but be warned - her scotch bonnets are smoking hot! 216-218 William Street, Woolloomooloo oldgrowler.com.au Bar, Bar Food $$
FOOD NEWS Last week I popped down to the new Salt Meats Cheese pop-up store taking up temporary digs in the Sydney MLC Centre.Accompanied by a host of media personalities, including The Daily Telegraph’s new Sydney Taste Editor, Grant Jones, and NSW food producers’ best advocate, Lyndey Milan, I downed Aperol Spritzes and flirted with handsome young lads wrapping grissini with truffle honey and Serano Spanish prosciutto sliced on a fancy Berkel meat slicer.While Inner Westies like me are probably already familiar with the Alexandria warehouse’s large range, if you work in the CBD, this small store version offers up a selection of cured meats, flavoured salts, cheeses and freshly made pasta sauces - all perfect for the time-poor! If you decide to support it, the three-month trial might work out into a permanent store. Just sayin’. www.saltmeatscheese.com.au www.mlccentre.com.au
BAR FLY
By Rebecca Varidel
THE FLYNN
After work, the CBD suits are standing around upright tables, watching the big screens of the sports bar, spilling onto the street. I’m still waiting for the less corporate Bar Bloke. When he arrives we try our test drink – a Whisky Sour and it hits the spot, even more so as bar manager Luke Reimann checked which whisky we wanted. Is it Happy Hour for $12 cocktails? I’m ready to try more and taken by the way Reimann has divided the regular list: Aperitif like Chilli Martini ($19); Femin such as Malibu Reggae ($17); Masculin with a classic Rusty Nail ($17); Dessert could be The Real White Russian ($18). My recommendation, a smoking Two Step of burnt orange gin and fresh fig paste, takes a little time, but (like waiting for the Bar Bloke) it was elegantly worth the wait. 2A Bligh Street, Sydney (02) 9223 0037 theflynn.com.au
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