On the trail of chimps in Kibale The comparisons with human behaviour are uncanny. A much closer relative of ours can be found further north in Kibale National Park where a troop of 120 chimps has been habituated for tourism.
Sweating and panting, we’re finally treated to a tender few minutes as two chimps groom each other on a fallen tree trunk. Their actions mimic each other, lifting legs and scratching armpits; lost in concentration,the primates are even more transfixed than us.
You can find big cats, too
“They feel emotion when a member of the family dies, chimps stay with the body until it swells.” says Gerard Kirungi, a tracker who has been guiding since 1991.
So many travellers fly in and out of Uganda, seeking a safari elsewhere, but in addition to gorillas, the country also has a healthy big cat population.
Gerard, who grew up 6km from here recalls his dad building trenches to catch bush meat. Those activities ceased years ago and tourism has since become a key source of income. When Gerard ‘retires’ next year he plans to develop a cultural centre educating visitors about his community’s way of life.
Lake Mburo National Park, where British ex-pat Ralph Schenk and his wife, Suni, built the beautiful Mihingo Lodge 10 years ago, claims one of the highest leopard densities in Africa. Although you’ll have a hard time finding predators in the scrubby, thorny bush, crowd-free drives through the park are a delight.
Tracking chimps is rewarding, but it is also hard work; they have a habit of moving - at pace!
Built on a granite kopje (small hill), with an infinity pool overhanging a plateau, the tented camp is a welcome recharge stop between Entebbe and Bwindi. Even the view from my toilet is superb and when I’m not spending time coasting across
Using her forearms like pistons a female runs on her knuckles, leaving me caught in a tangle of thorns and spider webs. Looking round, her expression is fixed with a mild smile; it would be improper to anthropomorphise but I suspect she’s sniggering with glee.
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Lake Mburo in search of African fish eagles, I’m relaxing on my terrace, enjoying Africa’s vast, untamed landscapes. In Queen Elizabeth National Park, 42 lions roam the southern sector, all adept at climbing trees; a response to the large number of elephants once found in the park. Further north, I’m told, they’ve even learned to clamber up euphorbia candelabra cacti. We spend hours looking for paws draped over the branches of broad, open-armed fig trees, but focusing solely on big game is a big mistake. Elegant butterflies, garish agama lizards and acrobatic Angolan swallows are some of the many smaller species deserving attention. At the peaceful Ishasha Wilderness Camp, you don’t have to go far; a riverside location brings all these things to my canvas door. Because that’s the real joy of Uganda, beyond the headline-grabbing wildlife acts, there’s a place and people we should all get to know. Sarah Marshall
How to get there Audley Travel (audleytravel.com/Uganda; 01993 838 575) offers a tailor-made 11-night trip to Uganda from £5,985 per person (based on two sharing). Price includes international flights from Heathrow with Kenya Airways, transfers and accommodation with most meals included. The price also includes a chimp tracking excursion, game drives, gorilla trekking and a boat ride on Lake Mburo, as well as all necessary wildlife-viewing permits.
Living Along The Thames | MAY/JUNE 2018