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NANTUCKET, MA NORTHPORT, NY GEORGETOWN, ME POINT JUDITH, RI CT LAKES REGION INSIDE:

RHODE ISLAND

FISH-STORY

NEW ENGLAND’S

BEST LOBSTER ROLL?


ALL NEW

Visit Your New England Pursuit Factory Authorized Dealer

•.

All Seasons Marine www.allseasonsmarineworks.com Atlantic Outboard Inc www.atlanticoutboard.com Bosun’s Marine www.bosuns.com Striper Marina www.stripermarina.com Yarmouth Boat Yard www.yarmouthboatyard.com

• •


© 2017 Garmin Ltd. or its subsidiaries

12”

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I M A G I N E C H O O S I N G A L L of boating’s smartest ideas for versatility in one ultimate outboard platform. It’s now available in the popular Formula 310, 330, 350, and 430! Formula outboards are sure to please, perfectly integrating day boating and engine maintenance ease for those who want the absolute best boat powered with outboards. This smartly balanced combination with expanded cockpit space utilization is the perfect match for all your boating ventures, taking you farther than ever before. The unique Formula design extends the fun into each entertainment zone without giving up the ever important flush cockpit. And whether it’s a Sun Sport, Bowrider or Crossover, each Formula is the only outboard in its class to give you a spacious, aft-facing sun lounge and extended swim platform that brings you closer to your on-water adventures.

CHOOSE THE BEST – THE FORMULA OUTBOARD LINEUP!

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Find Your Nearest Yamaha New England Dealer Here — We’ve Got You Covered VERMONT TOM’S MARINE SERVICE West Ferrisburgh toms-marine.com (802) -475-2465

RHODE ISLAND BREWER ST. BOAT WORKS Newport bsbw.com (401) 847-0321

BURR BROTHERS BOATS, INC. Marion burrbros.com (508) 748-0541

RIVERFRONT MARINE SPORTS, INC Salisbury riverfrontmarine.com (978) 462-7755

NEW HAMPSHIRE DAVE’S MOTORBOAT SHOPPE Gilford davesmotorboatshoppe.com (603) 293-8847

OCEAN HOUSE MARINA Charlestown oceanhousemarina.com (401) 364-6040

CAPE ANN MARINE SALES & SERVICE Gloucester capeannmarine.com (978) 283-0806

SCITUATE BOAT WORKS Scituate scituateboatworks.com (781) 545-0487

INDEPENDENT MARINE Moultonboro independentmarine.com (603) 476-5580 ROCKINGHAM BOAT REPAIR AND SALES Hampstead rockinghamboat.com (603) 329-5625 CONNECTICUT ALL SEASONS MARINE WORKS Westport allseasonsmarineworks.com (203) 838-9038 BOATS INCORPORATED Niantic boatsinc.com (860) 739-6251 ISLAND COVE MARINA, LLC Old Saybrook islandcovemarina.net (860) 388-0029 J. CATALANO & SONS INC. Greenwich catalanoandsons.com (203) 531-9207 PINE ISLAND MARINE Groton pineislandmarina.com (860) 445-9729 TWIN HULL BOATS, LLC Bridgeport twinhullboats.com (203) 330-8964

SILVER SPRING MARINE Wakefield silverspringmarine.com (401)-783-0783

CAPE YACHTS Dartmouth cape-yachts.com (508) 994-4444

TERN HARBOR MARINA Weymouth ternharbormarina.com (781) 337-1964

CATAUMET BOATS INC. Cataumet cataumetboats.com (508) 563-7102

MAINE BOWDEN MARINE SERVICE Bar Harbor bowdenmarine.com (207) 288-5247

A & J BOAT CORPORATION Marion ajboatcorp.com (508) 748-2800

G&S MARINE Buzzards Bay gandsmarine.com.com (508) 759-5100

HAMLIN’S MARINE Waterville hamlinsmarine.com (207) 872-5660

ALLEN HARBOR MARINE SERVICE Harwich Port allenharbor.com (508) 430-6008

HANK’S MARINE Cherry Valley hanksmarine.com (508) 892-4788

HODGDON YACHT SERVICES Southport hodgdonyachtservices.com (207) 633-2970

ATLANTIC BOATS INC. E. Wareham atlanticboats.net (508) 295-8005

MACDOUGALLS’ CAPE COD MARINE SERVICE Falmouth macdougalls.com (508) 548-3146

MOOSABEC MARINE Jonesport (207) 497-2196

BAERT MARINE Middleton baertmarine.com (800) 522-7712

MILLWAY MARINA Barnstable millwaymarina.com (508) 362-4904

BASS RIVER MARINA West Dennis bassrivermarina.com (508) 394-8341

NAUSET MARINE Orleans nausetmarine.com (508) 255-0777

BAYSIDE MARINE CORP Duxbury baysidemarinecorp.com (781) 934-0561

OYSTER HARBORS MARINE Osterville oysterharborsmarine.com (508) 428-2017

BOSUN’S MARINE Mashpee Peabody bosuns.com (800) 522-7712

OUTERMOST HARBOR MARINE Chatham outermostharbor.com (508) 945-2030

MASSACHUSETTS 3A MARINE Hingham 3amarine.com (781) 749-3250

NAVTRONICS York navtronics.com (207) 363-1150 SOUTHPORT MARINE Portland southportmarine.com (207) 831-3979 YARMOUTH BOAT YARD/MOOSE LANDING MARINA Naples mooselandingmarina.com (207) 693-6264


www.gradywhite.com

Baert Marine 7 River Street Middleton, MA Tel: 978-774-7712 www.baertmarine.com

Bayside Marine 441 Washington Street Duxbury, MA Tel: 781-934-2051 www.baysidemarinecorp.com

Boats Incorporated 133 Main Street Niantic, CT Tel: 860-739-6251 www.boatsinc.com

Catalano & Sons 34 South Water Street Greenwich, CT Tel: 203-531-9207 www.catalanoandsons.com


Cataumet Boats 1280 Route 28A Cataumet, MA Tel: 508-563-7102 www.cataumetboats.com

Cataumet Boats 12 Barton Avenue Barrington, RI Tel: 401-245-5222 www.cataumetboats.com

Cataumet Boats at Outermost Harbor Marine 83 Seagull Road Chatham, MA Tel: 508-945-2030 www.cataumetboats.com

Port Harbor Marine 1 Spring Point Drive South Portland, ME Tel: 207-767-3254 www.portharbormarine.com


GOLDEN DAYS

42

THE GHOSTS OF WEST ISLAND

70

Peace and beauty await the boater who lingers longer on the Maine coast.

The story behind a well-known boating landmark that once served as home to a famous fishing club.

FEATURES

DEPARTMENTS

32

24 THE HELM

48

48

Boaters who find their way to Long Island’s Northport Harbor will discover a friendly village filled with restaurants, shops, art, history and more.

56

62

Our pick of fun, clever and useful items for the nautical-minded.

120 VIEW ASTERN NEWENGLANDBOATING.COM

62

HIDDEN LAKES

Head west to experience this set of captivating lakes tucked away in the bucolic Connecticut Berkshires.

Fall Feast

32 BOATING GEAR & GIFTS

NORTH SHORE SECRET

HEY JUDE!

Point Judith, Rhode Island, may be best known as a cruising pit stop or jumping-off spot for trips to Block Island, but there are ample reasons to stick around. CONTINUED

NEW ENGLAND BOATING

15


NEW ENGLAND BOATING

TABLE OF CONTENTS TABLE OF CONTENTS

MADAKET MAGIC

Experience a different side of Nantucket in this tranquil west-end harbor.

78 86 104 16

NEW ENGLAND BOATING

114

94

MOUNT HOPE HOPSCOTCH Overlooked by many boaters, Mount Hope Bay offers a host of attractive spots in which to wile away a day—or week—on the water.

ALL ABOUT THE BASS

From waterskiing to fishing, dining to beachgoing—you can do it all on Cape Cod’s largest river.

WHERE’S GEORGETOWN? This Mid-Coast Maine town isn’t so much a destination as a state of mind.

LOBSTER ITALIANO

Is this small Connecticut eatery really home to New England’s best lobster roll?

NEWENGLANDBOATING.COM


NEW!

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BoatUS.com/insurance 800-283-2883

Download the NEW BoatU.S. app for self-service, marine weather, tides & more!

Insurance policies and endorsements are subject to limits and exclusions. TowBoatU.S. coverage endorsement pricing varies by boat length and location.


NEW ENGLAND BOATING

FROM THE HELM

VICE PRESIDENT, EDITORIAL & CONTENT

Janice Randall Rohlf EDITOR

Tom Richardson: New England Boating, New England Fishing

EED A CONVINCING REASON FOR BOATING DEEP INTO THE SEASON? Look no further than Joe Devenney’s exquisite photo essay on page 42. Devenney’s remarkable images provide a tantalizing glimpse of the Maine coast dressed in its autumn splendor, and capture the sense of peace and solitude the shoulder-season boater will experience at this quiet time of year. All along the coast, fall offers excellent opportunities for cruising, sailing, fishing, paddling and rowing, on lakes, ponds, rivers and ocean waters—without the hectic launch ramps and busy docks of summer. Given the excellent weather we often enjoy in October and even November, it would be a shame not to take advantage. Fall is a fantastic time to hit the road with a small boat in tow or a kayak on the roof, checking out those spots you’ve always been curious about, but never had the time to explore during the “regular” boating season. In this issue, you’ll find plenty of articles to inspire such trips. Take, for example, Point Judith. Many boaters know this Rhode Island port as a cruising stopover or launch spot for trips to Block Island, but the pond itself is a world unto itself, worthy of closer inspection. Then there’s Northport, Long Island, an easy run for Connecticut boaters looking for a fun fall daytrip or weekend getaway. Or how about Mount Hope Bay, whose protected waters offer a host of surprises, including some worthy dock-and-dine options? Cape Cod’s Bass River, the lakes of northwestern Connecticut, the tidal waters of Georgetown, Maine— all deserve attention, no matter what the season. You’ll find lots of useful boating information on all the aforementioned locations inside this issue, along with stories on a long-lost Rhode Island fishing club, great boating gear and gift items, and what might be the best lobster roll in New England. Intrigued? Keep reading, or better yet, see them for yourself!

LMS EDITORS

Maria Allen: South Shore Living, Plymouth Magazine Rachel Arroyo: Home Remodeling Kelly Chase: Falmouth Magazine, Hingham Magazine Lisa Leigh Connors: Cape Cod Magazine, Chatham Magazine Rob Duca: New England Golf & Leisure Colby Radomski: Southern New England Weddings ASSOCIATE EDITOR

Kelly Chase ............................................ CREATIVE DIRECTOR

Eric Brust-Akdemir ART DIRECTOR/HOME REMODELING

Alexandra Bondarek ASSOCIATE ART DIRECTORS

Wendy Kipfmiller-O’Brien Jennifer Kothalanka PRODUCTION MANAGER

Rachel Clayton DESIGNER

Kendra Sousa ............................................ TV/VIDEO SENIOR WRITER/PRODUCER/HOST

Parker Kelley TV/VIDEO SENIOR EDITOR/VIDEOGRAPHER

Jimmy Baggott ............................................ CONTRIBUTING WRITERS

Ken Taxtor, Rob Duca, Malerie Yolen Cohen, Dave Bill, Tom Richardson CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS

Joe Devenney, Caryn B. Davis, Benjamin Boynton, Cate Brown, Terry Pommet, Nancy Zimmermann, Tom Richardson

Tom Richardson Editor & Co-Host

PUBLISHED BY

Lighthouse Media Solutions www.lhmediasolutions.com Single copy price $7.99/$8.99 Canada. All rights reserved. No part of this magazine may be reproduced in whole or in part without the written permission of the publisher. Publisher disclaims all responsibility for omissions, errors, and unsolicited materials. Printed in the USA.

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PRESIDENT & CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER

Russell A. Piersons rpiersons@lhmediasolutions.com ............................................

CHIEF OPERATIONS OFFICER (DIGITAL DEVELOPMENT)

David F. Jensen djensen@lhmediasolutions.com PRESIDENT (VIDEO-TV)

Gene Allen gallen@lhmediasolutions.com VICE PRESIDENT SALES & MARKETING

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Mike Alleva malleva@lhmediasolutions.com VICE PRESIDENT ACCOUNT MANAGEMENT

Mark Skala mskala@lhmediasolutions.com ............................................ BRAND MANAGER, HOME REMODELING

Erin Soderstrom esoderstrom@lhmediasolutions.com REGIONAL SALES MANAGERS

Anne Bousquet abousquet@lhmediasolutions.com Jane Cournan jcournan@lhmediasolutions.com David Honeywell dhoneywell@lhmediasolutions.com Janice Rogers jrogers@lhmediasolutions.com Suzanne Ryan sryan@lhmediasolutions.com ............................................ DIRECTOR ACCOUNT MANAGEMENT

Oceanna O’Donnell ACCOUNT MANAGERS

Catheren Andrade Sharon Bartholomew Ailish Belair Michelle Overby SALES AD COORDINATOR (PUBLISHING, TV, WEB)

Hillary Portell hportell@lhmediasolutions.com ............................................

SENIOR WEB DEVELOPER

David Fontes dfontes@lhmediasolutions.com ............................................ SOCIAL MEDIA MANAGER

Allie Herzog

DIGITAL CONTENT MANAGER

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............................................ CONTROLLER

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Laura Scheuer lscheuer@lhmediasolutions.com

Mondays at 6:30 p.m. on NESN

Sundays at 11:30 a.m. on CBS Boston Cape Cod Office: 508.534.9291 396 Main Street, Suite 15, Hyannis, MA 02601 Boston Office: 508.534.9291 7 Tide Street, Boston, MA 02210 Rhode Island Office: 401.396.9888 P.O. Box 568, Portsmouth, RI 02871

On the Cover: Perkins Cove, Ogunquit, Maine. By Joe Devenney

26

NEW ENGLAND BOATING

NEWENGLANDBOATING.COM


bostonwhaler.com

INTRODUCING THE

380 OUTRAGE

The new Boston Whaler 380 Outrage confidently navigates the spectrum of on-water activities, empowering epic offshore fishing runs as beautifully as it hosts memorable gatherings. True to its Outrage name, the 380 does more than rise to the occasion — it soars.


SOME PEOPLE THINK TUNA IS CHICKEN THAT COMES IN A CAN.


The power and reliability of the Verado 350 will take these people to an aisle they won’t find in any grocery store. Sorry, Charlie. Ahi’s on the menu tonight. Learn more at mercurymarine.com or visit your local dealer, today.

M A S S AC H U S E T T S 1. Bill’s Outboard Motor Service Inc Hingham, MA 781-749-1303 billsoutboard.com 10

2. Continental Marina Buzzards Bay, MA 508-759-5451 continentalmarina.com

11

12

13

8 6

5

1

4 7 9

14

2

3

8. Riverfront Marine Sports Inc Salisbury, MA 978-462-7755 riverfrontmarine.com 9. Wareham Boat Yard & Marina Inc West Wareham, MA 508-748-1472 wareham-boatyard-marina.com

3. G&S Marine Buzzards Bay, MA 508-759-5100 gandsmarine.com

MAINE 10. Mid Maine Marine & RV Inc Oakland, ME 207-465-2146 midmainemarine.com

4. Hank’s Marine Cherry Valley, MA 508-892-4788 hanksmarine.com

11. South Port Marine Portland, ME 207-799-8191 southportmarine.com

5. Tern Harbor Marina Weymouth, MA 781-337-1964 ternharbormarina.com

NEW HAMPSHIRE 12. Irwin Marine Laonia, NH 603-527-6110 irwinmarine.com

6. Merrimac Marine Supply Methuen, MA 978-682-7291 merrimacmarine.com 7. Nauset Marine Orleans, MA 508-255-0777 nausetmarine.com

13. Green’s Marine Inc Hooksett, NH 603-485-5131 greensmarine.net RHODE ISLAND 14. Silver Spring Marine Wakefield, RI 401-783-0783 silverspringmarine.com


Get Goosed!

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If you have a new boat or are looking to refit your existing boat,

Goose Hummock will rig your vessel for fishing with the best state-of-the-art gear and tackle!

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STORE AT.....THEMIGHTYFISH.COM EVERYTHING YOU’LL NEED TO FISH THE BLUEWATER!

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For more info, visit GOOSE.COM


GEAR & GIFTS 1. PRO TOUCH

1.

—————————————— Raymarine’s new Axiom Pro is designed for serious offshore enthusiasts. The high-tech MFD features Raymarine’s HybridTouch, combining multi-touchscreen control with an ergonomic keypad for easy operation, even in rough seas. The new Axiom Pro line is available in 9”, 12” and 16” display sizes. Fish-finding capability can be upgraded with an optional, internal 1 kW CHIRP sonar, which employs a wide spectrum of CHIRP sonar frequencies and enables anglers to see through dense schools of baitfish, identify thermoclines and simultaneously target game fish in deep water. Engineered to perform in bright sunlight, the Axiom Pro models feature high-definition, In-Plane Switching (IPS) display technology, maximizing viewing angles and reducing blackouts when wearing polarized glasses. Further, Axiom Pro’s flexible design and LightHouse 3 OS enable integration with multiple Axiom displays, CHIRP radar, Evolution autopilot and FLIR thermal night-vision technology. $2,550 RAYMARINE.COM

2.

2. MECHANICALLY INCLINED

—————————————— Yamaha’s new mechanical-control version of its 300-hp, 4.2-liter V6 Offshore outboard is available in both left- and right-hand rotation. The new mechanical F300 offers the same features, power and performance as the digital version, including big-bore V6 displacement thanks to plasma-fused sleeveless cylinders. This technology increases displacement without enlarging the outer diameter of the cylinder bores, resulting in an outboard with the largest displacement in its class. An electronically controlled single throttle valve and Precision Multi-Point Electronic Fuel Injection make the outboards up to 17% more fuel-efficient. V6 Offshore Mechanicals are also more than 50 pounds lighter than the venerable Yamaha 3.3-liter V6s. In addition, they offer better low- and midrange punch and better fuel efficiency.

3.

$25,290 YAMAHAOUTBOARDS.COM

3. SHARP SHIRTS

—————————————— Under Armour’s Tide Chaser shirts feature a smooth, woven fabric that’s cool and silky. Multi-directional stretch technology is built into the polyester material to deliver freedom of movement. Tide Chaser shirts feature 30+ UPF and a moisture-transport system that wicks away sweat, along with mesh-backed vents strategically placed in the shoulders and underarms. Anti-odor technology in the fabric prevents the growth of odorcausing microbes, while stain-release technology allows blood and dirt to wash away easily.   Both the short- and long-sleeve Tide Chaser shirts feature button-down plackets and collar points, shirt-tail hems and dual chest pockets with single-button closures for fast, easy access. The long-sleeve model has loop-and-button sleeves. $50 - $60 UNDERARMOUR.COM

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NEW ENGLAND BOATING

NEWENGLANDBOATING.COM


4.

4. DRY & STYLISH

—————————————— Water-resistant, eco-friendly Wet Bags are great for stashing phones, keys, wallets and other essentials, as well as for keeping wet bathing suits separated from other items. Three models are available, including Starfish Beach (allows small, wet items to be kept separate from dry); To The Sea (stylish bag for essentials, and keeps wet items separate from dry); and Soulmates (stow wet swimwear so you can transition from beach adventures to happy hour without missing a beat). $30+ WANDERWETBAGS.COM

5. HANDS-FREE FUN

—————————————— The Malibu PDL by Ocean Kayak features a hands-free pedal-drive system for fun, zippy, stable, turn-on-a-dime performance. The kayak’s rugged, 12’ rotomolded hull weighs in at 100 pounds and can carry up to 450 pounds. Other highlights include a kid’s jumpseat in the stern tankwell, 3 drink holders, 8” accessory tracks and a pet-friendly bow tank-well with bungees.

5.

With a 10.3:1 gear ratio for efficient pedaling, the PDL Drive is capable of reaching 5.5 mph, and features reverse operation. It mounts into the Malibu Pedal in seconds and can be quickly tipped into a docking position for skinnywater situations. The PDL Drive System console also doubles as dry storage with a 6” access hatch. The pedals are padded for barefoot comfort and grip. $2,199 MALIBUPEDAL.COM

6.

6. SECURITY MEASURES

—————————————— Siren Marine’s MTC boat monitoring and tracking system is a practical security solution for boats ranging from center consoles and bass boats to cruising sailboats and trawlers. The MTC system lets you keep tabs on your boat from anywhere in the world via 3G cellular service. GPS tracking makes it easy to see where your boat is at all times, providing security and peace of mind when family and friends are using it. Further, the MTC will automatically alert you via the Siren Marine app to a variety of critical conditions, such as unauthorized entry/motion, battery voltage, bilge-level status, temperature and vessel location. MTC also lets you control key onboard systems, such as alarms, cabin and cockpit lighting, air conditioning, battery switches and more from a smartphone or computer. $599 SIRENMARINE.COM

NEWENGLANDBOATING.COM

NEW ENGLAND BOATING

33


NEW ENGLAND GEAR & GIFTS BOATING GEAR & GIFTS

7.

7. WATCH THIS

—————————————— The amazing Garmin quatix 5 smartwatch provides comprehensive boat connectivity with Garmin chartplotters and other marine electronics to offer autopilot control, remote multifunction display (MFD), waypoint marking, data streaming (including speed, depth, temperature and wind), sail-racing assistance, anchor-rode calculation and much more.

8.

The quatix 5 can stream NMEA 2000 data, allowing you to access sensor information such as speed, depth, temperature, wind data and more. When paired with a GHC 20 autopilot unit, the quatix 5 can be used to control the autopilot to change heading, engage heading hold, steer to an active GPS route and initiate patterns. You can also remotely mark a waypoint on a connected chartplotter, as well as control onboard entertainment systems. The quatix 5 provides tide data downloaded through a smartphone, and comes with an anchor alarm. Submersible-rated to a depth of 100 meters, the quatix 5 face measures 47 mm wide and features a stainless steel bezel, buttons and rear case; sunlight-readable color display with LED backlight; omni-directional stainless steel EXO antenna and high-sensitivity GPS. The quatix 5 boasts up to 24 hours of battery life in GPS mode, 60 hours in UltraTrac mode and 2 weeks in smartwatch mode. $600-$850 GARMIN.COM

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NEW ENGLAND BOATING

8. READY TO ROLL

—————————————— Eliminate trips to your vehicle with Hobie’s new Fold and Stow Kayak Cart. Lightweight and strong, the cart can be disassembled in a matter of seconds to fit inside Hobie kayaks equipped with a large front cargo hatch. Will handle 175 pounds. $179 HOBIEFISHING.COM

NEWENGLANDBOATING.COM


9.

9. SAFETY FIRST

—————————————— Switlik’s Crew Overboard Rescue Device (CORD) is an Underarm Flotation Device (UFD) designed for man-overboard emergencies. The horseshoe-shaped CORD provides 35 pounds of buoyancy and is designed to keep a person’s head and shoulders above water. Meanwhile, the device’s reflective material makes it easy to spot from a distance. The CORD is rigged for manual inflation and when deployed, stays attached to the boat via a shackle incorporated into the mounting system. The CORD can be used multiple times and is self-serviceable with a one-year service interval. $375 (609) 587-3300; SWITLIK.COM

PROFESSIONAL GRADE RIBS™

WHAT A RIB SHOULD BE

MADE IN THE U.S.A.

Designed for Professionals, Built for You. RIBCRAFT sets the standard for what a rigid inflatable boat (RIB) should be. Synonymous with performance and durability, RIBCRAFT does it all. The RIBCRAFT line of professional grade RIBS, ranging in size from 15-41’, offers the ultimate in rough water performance and safety. www.ribcraftusa.com • 781.639.9065 • info@ribcraftusa.com

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8/13/17 10:32 PM

NEW ENGLAND BOATING

35


GEAR & GIFTS

10.

11.

10. AIR COOLED

—————————————— STASH Coolers have taken the technology from inflatable watercraft and applied it to a line of large-capacity coolers (75 to 600 quarts), making it possible to enjoy monstercooler benefits without the weight and storage requirements of traditional hard-sided coolers. Quick and easy to inflate, STASH coolers are available in 2 collections: The C Series is rectangular in shape, and comprises 4 models ranging in size from 75 to 175 quarts, while the A Series, designed for both recreational and commercial use, is available in 225, 300, 450, and 600 quarts. A single air valve allows for simultaneous inflation of the 3 inflatable chambers, while dual soft sides allow the cooler to compress easily when not in use, and expand beyond capacity when filled. A high-volume pump is included with the coolers for quick inflation/deflation. Additional features include reinforced feet that double as tie-down points, multiple carrying handles with reinforced, padded webbing, stainless steel D rings for attaching accessories, mesh pockets with Velcro closures on the front and back for storing gear, and large, threaded drain plugs. $500-$1,000 STASHCOOLERS.COM

11. ROPE REBOOT

—————————————— These handsome, rugged doormats are made entirely of recycled lobster-gear float rope—a material that will hold up to foot traffic, kids, and dogs while looking good on a porch or patio. Stern Lines works with 24 different Maine lobstermen to make the mats, using only repurposed rope. Available in a wide variety of colors and patterns. $44 STERNLINES.COM

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NEW ENGLAND BOATING

NEWENGLANDBOATING.COM


Finish the season strong.

CapeYachts.com S. Dartmouth, MA | Newport, RI 508-994-4444

POWER | SAIL


GEAR & GIFTS 12. GO AHEAD JUMP

—————————————— The 22s portable jump starter is Weego’s most compact and affordable model to date. The unit can jump-start boat and car engines up to 5L gas and 2.5L diesel models. Revolutionary Smarty Clamps ensure foolproof operation, and feature tapered tips to help access hard-to-reach battery terminals. The 22s is designed with extra-wide openings and power on both sides to ensure the best connection possible, and features sealed ports that keep out water, dust and dirt. The 22s offers 1000 charging cycles and over a year of standby power on a single charge. $70 MYWEEGO.COM

12.

13. KEEP COOL

—————————————— The Flylow Wild Child shirt features a retro 1970’s pattern that’ll keep you looking—and feeling—cool on the water. The Wild Child is a short-sleeve button-down made of 100% washed cotton poplin. Features include a chest pocket, wooden buttons and double-needle stitching details.

13.

$70 FLYLOWGEAR.COM

14. NIGHT SIGHT

—————————————— The NightSpotter thermal-imaging scope from Iris Innovations is portable nightvision tool, enhancing safety and security at sea. The NightSpotter works by processing heat radiation given off by all objects to produce crisp, high-resolution video images. Because NightSpotter creates images based on an object’s ambient heat, it can be used in the total absence of light. Available in either 384 x 288 or 240 x 160 resolution, the scope can be used to detect hidden objects, channel markers, debris and even people in the water, making it a valuable safety device.

14. 38

NEW ENGLAND BOATING

The lightweight scope features a built-in, high-power LED light, composite video output and adjustable focus setting, up to 4X digital zoom, white-hot, black-hot and red-hot functions and adjustable brightness controls. $2,795 (954) 533 9381; BOAT-CAMERAS.COM

NEWENGLANDBOATING.COM


GEAR & GIFTS

15.

15. LINKED IN

—————————————— Lowrance’s Link-6 is a rugged Class D digital selective calling (DSC) marine VHF radio. The unit includes a high-quality, highcontrast black-on-white display that’s clearly visible in bright sunlight. Nighttime visibility has also been optimized, thanks to an inverted white-on-black night mode to reduce light emission and preserve night vision. A rotary dial makes channel selection easy, while large and amply spaced buttons provide quick access to all key functions, even with gloves on. A dedicated Channel 16 key is included on both the radio’s front panel and its 4-button “fist mic,” while an integrated Distress button allows automated DSC calling. $189 LOWRANCE.COM

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AUTUMN IN MAINE

Curtis Island, Camden.

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The splendor of autumn on the Maine coast, as seen through the lens of a master photographer. BY TOM RICHARDSON PHOTOGRAPHY BY JOE DEVENNEY he Maine coast is always changing, forever in flux, even on a daily basis. Wait six hours and suddenly—miraculously to some—you seem to be in a strange, new world. The tides alternately disguise and reveal rocks, weeds, mud and moorings. Ledges appear and vanish. Boats once afloat now lie on their sides. On a larger scale, the coastal character also changes with the seasons. Fall is particularly dramatic, painting the landscape in a stunning burst of color, the shores splashed with red, yellow and orange, contrasting with dark-green pine and black granite. Things grow quiet along the docks, wharves and piers of coastal towns. The tourists have departed, the transient cruisers headed south. Yet for residents it’s largely business as usual, especially for the lobstermen, clammers and other professional watermen, whose boats chug through the still and chilly mornings. And for the lucky boater who delays his or her departure, or those who deliberately choose this time to visit the Maine coast, fall offers a different perspective on this unique and beautiful corner of New England.

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AUTUMN IN MAINE Sunset and maple, Jefferson.

Pine needles on Biscay Pond, Damariscotta.

View of Mount Battie from Camden Harbor.

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Damariscotta River, Newcastle.

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AUTUMN IN MAINE

Boathouse and Hinckley, Pemaquid.

Fall fog, Pemaquid Pond, Nobleboro.

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LONG ISLABD DESTINATION

NORTHPORT, NY

‘m always surprised when boaters tell me that they’ve never been to Northport. After all, this charming village on the North Shore of Long Island is located just 40 miles east of New York City and a lot closer to many Connecticut ports, plus it has so much to offer. Northport’s ability to stay just a little off the beaten path lies in the fact it is exactly that from a boater’s perspective. After entering Huntington Bay from Long Island Sound, you’ll need to veer east into Northport Bay and eventually make your way into the deepest recesses of Northport Harbor to reach the town dock. The route is easier than it sounds, however, and only takes about 15 minutes.

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Britannia Yachting Center, at the very head of Northport Harbor, offers numerous amenities for visiting boaters. NEW ENGLAND BOATING

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Boats large, small and in between are welcome at Britannia Yachting Center.

Boaters who find their way to Northport Harbor will find a laidback Long Island village filled with restaurants, shops, art, history and much more. BY TOM SCHLICHTER PHOTOGRAPHY BY TOM RICHARDSON

HARBOR TRIO

The largest estuary on Long Island’s North Shore, Northport Bay encompasses Huntington Harbor, Lloyd Harbor, Centerport Harbor and Northport Harbor. Entering the complex from Huntington Bay, you’ll see Lloyd Neck to the west and the Coast Guard station at Eatons Neck to the east. Split the distance between them, staying east of the R “8” bell, and you’ll slide right down the throat of Huntington Bay while avoiding the submerged boulders that skirt both shorelines. Due west is Lloyd Harbor, a lovely, quiet anchorage surrounded by wooded shores and teaming with fish. Look east to pick up the G “1” buoy, which marks the entrance to Northport Bay.

STACK ‘EM UP!

At this point you can set a course toward the four candy-striped stacks of the LIPA power plant to the east (from Long Island Sound you’ll find that the stacks line up laterally at magnetic north, making them a great aid to navigation). To the north, at the southernmost tip of Eatons Neck, is Sand City, a popular boater’s beach and swimming hangout that was home to a sand-mining operation from 1925 through 1964. The fine sand of Eatons Neck was used to make cement, and much of it can still be found in New York City’s sidewalks and buildings. The plant was destroyed by fire in the 1980s, but there are remaining ruins to be explored on the small island that was once attached to the mainland when mining operations first began. The sand bottom here is great for anchoring, and the protected cove is a popular spot to overnight. There’s a snack stand on adjacent West Beach, the tip of which is also a bird sanctuary. Just north of Sand City is Price Bend, a hot spot for summer raft-ups. It’s an ideal anchorage, but it can be crowded on weekends. Continuing east, the entrance to Northport Bay is deep (20 feet MLW) and free of hazards. Head toward GC “3” to avoid a small shoal to the south then pick up R “8” off Little Neck Point. To the north lies Duck Island, another great spot to drop the hook and take a dip, but keep at least 300 yards southwest of Duck Island Bluff to avoid the rocky bottom and a shoal that extends east from Winkle Point.

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TOWN APPROACH

From R “8” it’s a straight run southeast into Northport Harbor. Stay north and east of the buoy here or you’ll find plenty of rocks and shallows. To port you’ll see magnificent estates, the Northport Yacht Club and several historic ship captain’s homes as you approach the town. You’ll also notice Seymour’s Boat Yard, which offers transient moorings and service. Once a premier Long Island boatbuilding shop, it still uses a marine rail system to haul and launch boats. Just north of Seymour’s is the Northport Town Dock, which offers seven feet MLW and lots of space. Tie-up is free during the day and available on a firstcome, first-served basis. From 5:00 p.m. to 10:00 p.m., the charge is $20 for any length of time. Overnight is $2 per foot. If you already paid the $20 fee it will be deducted from your nightly total. From the dock it’s a short stroll into downtown Northport and its many shops and restaurants. Continue south past Bird Island and you’ll eventually reach the upscale Britannia Yachting Center, a “resort marina” that offers transient slips, two restaurants, a pool, service and a host of onsite amenities. So protected is this site that Britannia experienced no boat damage during Long Island’s last three hurricanes, including Super Storm Sandy.

Hip Rockin’ Fish is one of Northport’s many fine eateries.

Boaters who moor or anchor can leave their dinghy at the town dock.

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Northport is an easy day trip for Connecticut boaters.

DOWNTOWN DELIGHTS

No matter where you choose to keep your boat on a visit to Northport, pack your appetite, because the village is loaded with dining options, starting with Tim’s Shipwreck Diner, featured in the 1997 film In and Out. Occupying a vintage railroad car that arrived in Northport in 1924, the diner features American fare ranging from blintzes and pancakes to burgers. Sit in the back to soak up the old-timey flavor. Bistro 44 serves sustainable seafood and local produce inspired by the season. Here you’ll find all-natural chicken dishes plus top-quality steaks. The prix-fixe lunch is a nice touch, as is the tapas menu at the bar and the special pre-theater dinner served from 5:00 to 6:00 p.m. Rockin’ Fish is a hip Main Street option that specializes in fresh, locally sourced seafood, burgers, appetizers and salads. They also have 16 craft brews on tap, as well as a wide array of whiskey blends. Copenhagen Bakery is a must-stop for fresh breads and sweet treats, but also serves breakfast, soups, salads and sandwiches. Other good sandwich and gourmet food sources include the Northport Village Gourmet Market and Northport Harbor Deli. To wash down lunch with a cold one, check out Sand City Brewery. The grog is great and you’ll love the festive atmosphere.

SASSY TO CLASSY

There are many more places to eat in Northport, so you’ll need to visit a few times to sample all the options. Spaced between the restaurants as you stroll though town are art galleries, jewelry stores, plus a variety of fun boutiques. The Window Shop carries fine Bulova timepieces and Pandora jewelry. The Jewelry Collection boasts gifts for everyone, with selections ranging from earrings to books. Owner Eileen hand-selects every item on display. Veronica Rayne Boutique is a trendy woman’s shop with designer items ranging from simple to chic. If a gift or something to remember your trip by will make your day, check out Clipper Ship Tea Company. Their staff will help select the perfect brew to soothe your soul. There’s even a great local theater—the John W. Engeman—which features plays, musicals and other live stage performances.

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LONG ISLABD DESTINATION

NORTHPORT, NY

The Vanderbilt Museum & Planetarium is a must-visit.

Ahi salad at Rockin’ Fish.

NORTHPORT AT A GLANCE HARBORMASTER (631) 261-7500

DOCKAGE, MOORINGS & SERVICE

NORTHPORT TOWN DOCK (631) 261-7500 Free tie-up during the day on a first-come, first-served basis. From 5:00 p.m. to 10:00 p.m., the charge is $20 for any length of time. Overnight is $2 per foot. If you already paid the $20 fee it will be deducted from your nightly total. BRITANNIA YACHTING CENTER (631) 651-8844 britanniayachtingcenter.com Resort-style marina offering transient slips, fuel, WiFi, onsite restaurants, pool, bait and tackle, fuel, pump-out and more. SEYMOUR’S BOAT YARD (631) 261-6574; seymoursboatyard.com Offers fuel and transient moorings on a weekly or daily basis.

HISTORY & FISHING

Interested in boatbuilding or local history? The Northport Historical Society and Museum has you covered. In addition to permanent and rotating exhibits, they have a research center and over 4,000 images on file. It’s a five-minute walk from the dock and open daily except for holidays. A bit farther afield is the magnificent Vanderbilt Museum & Planetarium in Centerport. During his extensive world travels aboard his yacht in the early 1900s, millionaire William K. Vanderbilt II collected birds, fish and plants. Many of these items are preserved on the grounds of his sprawling estate. Finally, not to be overlooked in the Northport area is some mighty fine fishing. Stripers, fluke, blues, porgies, false albacore and blackfish abound here during their respective seasons. The crew at Cow Harbor Bait & Tackle, yet another occupant at Britannia Yachting Center, can point you to the action.

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COOL SHOPS

THE WINDOW SHOP (631) 239-5450 thewindowshopjewelers.com Fine jewelry, watches and Pandora items. JEWELRY COLLECTION (631) 754-1116 Great gifts ranging from earrings to books. VERONICA RAYNE BOUTIQUE (631) 261-2080 Trendy women’s shop with designer items ranging from simple to chic. CLIPPER SHIP TEA COMPANY (631) 651-2764 Find the perfect brew to soothe your soul.

WHERE TO EAT

TIM’S SHIPWRECK DINER (631) 754-1797; shipwreckdiner.com Casual eatery in a vintage railroad car featuring American fare ranging from blintzes and pancakes to burgers.

ROCKIN’ FISH (631) 651-5200; rockinfishrestaurants.com Outdoor dining with a focus on fresh, local ingredients. Great selection of craft brews on tap. NORTHPORT HARBOR DELI (631) 261-6808 The spot to pick up tasty sandwiches, salads and sides for a day on the water. WHALE’S TALE CAFÉ (631) 651-8844; whalestalenpt.com Fun, casual dock-and-dine restaurant overlooking the docks of the Britannia Yachting Center. Don’t miss Taco Tuesdays! BISTRO 44 (631) 262-9744; bistro44.net Sustainable seafood and local produce inspired by the changing seasons. SAND CITY BREWERY (631) 651-2766; sandcitybeer.com Festive brewpub serving fresh ale, beer and pub grub. THE PURPLE ELEPHANT (631) 651-5002; thepurpleelephant.net Britannia Yachting Center-based eatery specializing in wild-caught seafood, grassfed beef and pork, non-GMO chicken and vegan dishes.

THINGS TO SEE & DO

JOHN W. ENGEMAN THEATER (631) 261-2900; engemantheater.com Catch a musical, play or other live performance at this highly regarded theater. NORTHPORT HISTORICAL SOCIETY & MUSEUM (631) 757-9859; northporthistorical.org Check out exhibits, artifacts, textiles, ephemera and more than 2,000 archived photographs on Northport history. VANDERBILT MUSEUM & PLANETARIUM (631) 854-5579; vanderbiltmuseum.org The former estate of William K. Vanderbilt II features an amazing collection of mounted fish, birds, mammals and other creatures.

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CARVER YACHT OWNERS CAN BOAT WITH CONFIDENCE. AND THAT’S OUR PROMISE.

Carver Yachts Promise Every Carver Yacht owner has my personal pledge that we will provide whatever support is necessary to ensure the finest ownership experience in boating. As a Carver owner, if you ever have a problem that cannot be remedied by your local dealer, I promise that the right technical experts will be assigned to aid that dealer in solving your problem. I invite you to take a closer look at Carver and see the difference. Rob Parmentier President & CEO Carver Yachts

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To build a boat is a very complex undertaking. In fact, not many boat builders actually build their boats. It’s more of an assembly process, with large numbers of components sourced from other vendors and put together at the plant. To maintain the highest levels of quality control, reliability and structural integrity, Carver manufactures and produces most of its components in-house, assuring each customer the finest production boat available. What’s more, Carver’s Class B rating means its yachts are built to navigate as far out as 200 miles offshore and sustain Force 8 winds and waves up to 13 feet. No wonder Carver Yachts is taking the marine industry by storm. Sea trial one at your Carver Yachts Dealer today. We promise you won’t be disappointed.

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CONNECTICUT LAKES REGION

Head west by northwest to experience this set of captivating lakes in the Connecticut Berkshires.

n a spin around Lake Washining (better known as “East Twin Lake”) in Salisbury, Connecticut, Mary Ouellette, the manager of O’Hara’s Landing Restaurant, points out an elongated island that serves as a summer camp for the American School for the Deaf. The cigar-shaped landmass, Isola Bella, with its Instagram-worthy stone tower, juts halfway into the lake, making the waterbody appear a lot smaller than it really is. At about 1 ½ miles in diameter and 859 acres, East Twin is the largest lake in the Connecticut Berkshires, and just one of several that have tempted vacationers and fishermen for over half a century. Who even knew that Connecticut had a Lakes Region? Nestled amid lush, green hills, these small, cobalt-colored basins in the extreme northwest corner of Connecticut are ideal for fishing, tubing, waterskiing, swimming, paddling or just hanging out on the water. And hardly anyone outside of the area knows about them, which is just fine by the folks who live or have second homes here.

BY MALERIE YOLEN COHEN PHOTOGRAPHY BY CARYN B. DAVIS

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O’Hara’s Landing Marina & Restaurant on East Twin Lake.

HOME TO THE STARS…

There’s a laidback sensibility in the town of Salisbury that harks back to a bygone era. Neighborhood kids congregate in the dwindling sunlight to talk, fish or simply play, while adults walk their dogs and engage in actual face-to-face conversation with neighbors. There’s not an electronic device in sight. Before he died, Paul Newman was a frequent visitor to the Salisbury village of Lakeville, where he raced cars at Lime Rock Park. Meryl Streep, Kevin Bacon, Daniel Day Lewis and Oliver Platt all have homes in the surrounding countryside. Here, unpretentious glitterati leave their glitter in Hollywood or New York City, preferring the area’s spectacular scenery to that of the Hamptons.

AND BIG FISH

A handsome boathouse adorns the shore of East Twin Lake in Salisbury.

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The 350-acre Lake Wononscopomuc, better known as “Lakeville Lake,” is small but deep, and famous for its abundance of fish. Bass spawn naturally in the lake, and the Connecticut Bureau of Natural Resources also stocks it with trout. Pickerel, yellow perch and sunfish are other species of interest. In 1918, a 29-pound, 13-ounce lake trout was pulled out of Wononscopomuc—a record that still stands. The only place to launch a boat (10 horsepower or less) on the fish-rich Wononscopomuc is at Town Grove Park, in the Lakeville section of Salisbury. A public park ($10 use fee, $10 launch fee), Town Grove also has a small beach with lifeguard, a small store and a fishing pond for kids. With restrictions on motor power and no towing of skis or other flotation devices allowed, Lake Wononscopomuc is also the perfect choice for paddlers who want to enjoy a quiet afternoon. NEW ENGLAND BOATING

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CONNECTICUT LAKES REGION

Mudge Pond, Lakeville.

TWINNERS

The vibe is a bit different about six miles north, at Lake Washinee and Lake Washining, together known as “Twin Lakes.” The two lakes are connected by a small inlet beneath a bridge, and West Twin (Washinee) can only be accessed by kayak or rowboat. Washinee buzzes with Jet Skiers and speedboats (speed is restricted to 35 mph and 6 mph in certain areas) on hot days, and features the area’s only full-service marina, the aforementioned O’Hara’s Landing. Locals meet for breakfast or lunch at the home-kitchen-casual O’Hara’s Restaurant, which is also an enduring favorite among boaters who, besides those engaging in watersports, often fish, canoe, kayak, swim or just cruise around before stopping in to refuel. You can launch your own boat at O’Hara’s Landing for $15, or rent anything from kayaks and canoes ($20 per day) to small fishing boats ($65 per day) to 12-person pontoon boats ($450 per day). The marina also sells bait and tackle. For those with car-top boats, there’s also a small state launch—the East Lake Boat Launch—around the corner from O’Hara’s. It offers limited parking and a shallow, murky put-in area, but it’s free.

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NEWMAN’S OWN

Though boating will likely take up most of your time, it seems that everyone who visits the area manages to find his way to what was Paul Newman’s “home away from home”—Lime Rock Racetrack, just a few miles from Lakeville Lake. Newman last raced on this 1.53-mile course at age 82, a year before he died, and the place still sees swashbucklers of a similar age taking the wheel of high-performance cars. Various prestige car clubs rent the track for a few days for big boy “driver’s ed,” and of course Lime Rock hosts important races. Yet the vibe remains friendly, inclusive and welcoming, especially towards drive-by tourists who hear the roar of the engines and just want to gawk for a while. Unless there’s a big race, you can enter for free. Curiously, this faraway corner of Connecticut is known for its fantastic restaurants, shops and inns, plus a tiny museum that showcases the region’s obscure history as an iron mining and manufacturing center that supplied cannons and munitions to George Washington’s army during the American Revolution. You can learn more at the tiny Salisbury Association Museum inside the 1833 Salisbury Academy Building, built of handmade bricks and beautifully maintained. The stone tower on Isola Bella. Paddlers and rowers have Lake Washinee all to themselves.

SHOPPING ABOUT

Stores, a bakery, the museum and a funky new restaurant can all be found on Main Street in Salisbury. There’s a great selection of reasonably priced home accessories, gifts and clothing cultivated from the owner’s world travels at Passports. Next door, the Salisbury General Store has a tinge of old-fashioned Florida souvenir shop (minus the coconut monkeys), along with “period” children’s toys and sundries. It’s presided over by a hometown pharmacist.

The town of Salisbury features a few quaint shops and a mellow vibe.

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First thing in the morning, locals and tourists alike gather at Sweet Williams Bakery and Coffee Shop for ethereal ginger-apricot scones, croissants, cookies, flavored coffee and freshly squeezed lemonade. Next door, Sweet Williams Desserts and Scoops doles out Bette Midler’s favorite brand of creamy cold stuff: Kingston, New York-based Jane’s Ice Cream, seemingly made of 1,000-percent butterfat.

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Delectable treats at Sweet Williams Bakery & Coffee Shop.

RESTAURANT RAVES

The new Lockup restaurant is what you get when you cross a funky mosaic-floor French bistro with a billiards lounge and electronic arcade. The food is winning raves, but so is the “kid-friendly” backroom that encompasses a Foozball table, recording studio and video game room. Thirty years ago, The Woodland on Route 41 was a shake shack, but eventually became the local hangout it is today. Trendy places come and go, but “everyone ends up here,” says one patron who lives nearby. The chef does wonders with a range of food, including specials like the Caprese salad on a baguette, sushi and, of course, burgers. With a new chef and positive reviews from the New York Times, Morgan’s at the Interlaken Inn is a huge draw, excelling in seasonal farm-to-table cuisine. Far from a “capturedaudience” hotel restaurant, even locals make a beeline here. Speaking of the Interlaken Inn, it welcomes trailer-boaters who wish to stay overnight in Connecticut’s northwest corner. A $5 million renovation has put this resort back on the “stay” list. Rooms have been updated, with eye-catching bathrooms, and there’s plenty of waterfront and land-based amenities, such as a heated outdoor swimming pool, tennis courts and a lakeside beach and dock with canoes and kayaks.

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Unique home decor items at Passports.

CONNECTICUT LAKES REGION AT A GLANCE BOATING REGULATIONS

LAKE WONONSCOPOMUC Restricted to boats with motors of 10 horsepower or less. No towing of skis or other flotation devices allowed. TWIN LAKES Three waterskiers per boat, 35 mph limit except 6 mph limit within 200 feet of another vessel or dock. Also, 6 mph limit from 1/2 hour after sunset to 1/2 hour after sunrise. Waterskiing activity to run counterclockwise on east and west halves of East Twin Lake.

MARINA & LAUNCH RAMPS

O’HARA’S LANDING MARINA (860) 824-7583; oharaslanding.com Only full-service marina in the lakes region. Offers a launch ramp ($15, includes trailer parking), bait and tackle, and rentals of canoes, kayaks, rowboats and pontoon boats.

LAUNCH RAMPS

WHERE TO EAT

O’HARA’S RESTAURANT (860) 824-7583; oharaslanding.com Boater-friendly breakfast and lunch spot at the marina of the same name. SWEET WILLIAM’S (860) 435-8889; sweet-williams.com Start the day right at this popular bakery and coffee shop. THE LOCKUP (860) 596-4371; thelockuprestaurant.com French bistro meets billiards lounge and electronic arcade. THE WOODLAND (860) 435-0578; thewoodlandrestaurant.com The spot for sushi and creative takes on American classics such as steak, tuna, pork chops, salmon and more in a casually chic atmosphere.

EAST LAKE DEP BOAT LAUNCH Suitable for kayaks and car-top boats only. Very shallow. Limited parking.

THE WHITE HART (860) 435-0030; whitehartinn.com Upscale dining at the historic 1806-built White Hart Inn.

SALISBURY TOWN GROVE PARK LAUNCH Access to Lakeville Lake (Wononscopomuc Lake). $10 to launch. $10 per person for use of beach and park.

MORGAN’S (860) 435-9878; interlakeninn.com Fresh, farm-to-table focus, at the Interlaken Inn.

MARY PETERS MEMORIAL PARK Small dirt ramp providing access to Lake Wononpakook.

THINGS TO SEE & DO

COOL SHOPS

PASSPORTS Reasonably priced home accessories, gifts and clothing from around the world. SALISBURY GENERAL STORE Old-fashioned toys, sundries, souvenirs and a real hometown pharmacist.

LIME ROCK PARK RACEWAY (860) 435-5000; limerock.com Watch car racing at the same track frequented by Paul Newman. SALISBURY ASSOCIATION HISTORIC MUSEUM (860) 435-0566; salisburyassn.org Artifacts and exhibits relating to the history of the region, including its role as a cannon manufacturing center during the Revolutionary War.

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RHODE ISLAND DESTINATION

PT. JUDITH

BY TOM RICHARDSON PHOTOGRAPHY BY ANDREA ZIMMERMANN

This busy port offers plenty of boater-friendly accommodations, as well as a quiet side most folks fail to appreciate.

Ram Point Marina rents transient slips in the upper portion of Point Judith Pond.

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oint Judith is commonly considered a stopover for transient boaters heading to more glamorous ports along the coast or as a jumping-off point for trips to Block Island, Newport or Long Island. However, the curious boater who chooses to spend some time here will find a few good reasons to stick around. “Point Jude” is really three ports rolled into one. Galilee, on the east side of the pond, is a long-established commercial port, home to huge draggers, lobster boats, the Block Island ferry and a fleet of party- and charterboats. On the other side is Snug Harbor, where you’ll find several marinas that serve the area’s numerous recreational fishermen and boaters. Lastly, there’s the handful of marinas and in the quiet upper portion of the pond, in the town of Wakefield.

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PT. JUDITH

Kids frolic at Roger Wheeler Beach.

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The cozy Gooseberry Marina is one of several small facilities serving Point Jude boaters.

AT PLAY IN THE POND

Point Judith Pond itself is a 1,777-acre, 3 ½-mile-long estuary where fresh water from the Saugatucket River blends with salt water from the ocean. The result is a marvelously rich ecosystem that serves as home and nursery to an enormous array of marine life, from seaworms and mummichogs to quahogs and winter flounder. Many species of waterfowl depend on the pond, as well, and the expansive marshes on its eastern edge are a popular spot for birdwatching, especially during the spring and fall migration periods. The pond is a maze of shallow bars and narrow channels best explored in a small boat, canoe or kayak, although a deep channel extends three miles to its very northern end. The shallow area north of Plato Island in the center of the pond is a haven for adventurers, with plenty of room to drop anchor or beach canoes, skiffs, small sailboats and kayaks. It would be easy to spend a full weekend relaxing in the pond’s warm, protected coves. Just be sure to stay clear of the oyster farms, which are marked by yellow floats.

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PT. JUDITH

Snug Harbor Marina is popular with sportfishermen.

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Point Judith Lighthouse has served as an important aid to navigation since 1810.

POND ANCHORAGE

The popular transient anchorage north of Plato is marked by white floats. To access the anchorage, follow the channel until you are just north of the island (don’t take the shortcut or you’ll hit a mudflat) then cut across to the anchorage between Plato and Gardner Islands. At dead low tide, the water is only four feet deep between the channel and the seven-foot-deep anchorage, so larger boats should run north of the islands and enter the anchorage between Gardner and Beach Islands. Boaters can access the pond via several launch ramps or through the busy ocean inlet, also known as the breachway. The 15-foot-deep, 150-foot-wide breachway is the environmental and commercial lifeblood of Point Judith. It can also be a chaotic place, especially during the summer when it’s plied by hundreds of vessels each day.

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PT. JUDITH MANMADE SHELTER

The breachway has existed since the last ice age, although the natural inlet was widened and reinforced with riprap in the early 1900s to accommodate the increasing number of fishing vessels in Galilee. In the mid-’30s, a nearly three-mile-long, semicircular breakwater made of granite boulders was constructed to create a harbor of refuge for commercial and steamship traffic between New York and Boston—although by the time it was finished so was the heyday of coastal shipping. Nevertheless, the breakwater wasn’t a complete waste of time and money, as it does a fine job of protecting the breachway, Salty Brine and Roger Wheeler Beaches, and the cottage community of Breakwater Village to the east from the full force of the sea, as well as providing an excellent anchorage for transient boaters stopping in Point Judith.

Ferry Wharf Fish Market.

Fish & chips at Champlin’s.

PT. JUDITH AT A GLANCE HARBORMASTERS

South Kingstown (Snug Harbor/Jerusalem) (401) 783-3321 Narragansett (Galilee) (401) 640-1038

DOCKAGE, MOORINGS & SERVICE

JERUSALEM/SNUG HARBOR POINT JUDITH MARINA/BELLE VUE YACHTING CENTER (401) 789-7189; pjmarina.com Full-service facility with deep-water slips for boats up to 110 feet. Amenities include a pool and hot tub, private bathrooms, laundry, electrical service, fuel dock, pump-out, ice delivery, picnic gazebos with barbeque grills, parking, emergency on-site repair, plus a ship’s store and parts. SNUG HARBOR MARINA (401) 783-7766; snugharbormarina.com Maintains one transient slip (43-foot max) available on a first-come, first-served basis. Call at least a week in advance to reserve. The marina also has a fuel dock with gas and diesel, bait, tackle and boating supplies.

POINT JUDITH YACHT CLUB (401) 783-5603; pjyc.com Private club offering reciprocal privileges.  

LAUNCH RAMPS

A free (and busy) double-lane concrete ramp is located at the base of the Galilee Escape Road, on the right just before the Great Island Bridge. This ramp has a well-maintained fixed dock next to it, and offers quick access to the open ocean. Despite ample parking, the lot can fill early on weekends. Also, note that boats with towers may not be able to pass under the fixed Great Island Bridge to access the lower pond and ocean. On the west side of the lower pond, a small town launch can be found at the end of Gooseberry Road in Snug Harbor, but it’s best suited to kayak and cartop launching. Parking is limited along the street.

POINT VIEW MARINA (401) 789-7660; pointviewmarina.com Full-service marina offering seasonal and transient dockage, fuel, haul-out and repair.

A free town ramp with float and parking across the street is located in Wakefield, on the Upper Pond.

JIM’S DOCK (401) 783-2050 Located in Jerusalem, Jim’s Dock offers transient dockage (call for rates) and is home to a popular restaurant of the same name. Also sells bait and ice.

There is plenty of good holding ground and deep water (20-25 feet) inside the Harbor of Refuge. Just be sure to anchor outside the main channels. Best spot to anchor is in the southern end of the HOR, between the breakwater and buoy RG “N.” You can usually find good protection here in any wind, but be aware that wakes from the numerous commercial vessels and large fishing boats can make for a rolly experience.

UPPER POND STONE COVE MARINA (401) 783-8990; stonecovemarinari.com Located at the far northern end of Point Judith Pond, in Wakefield, Stone Cove offers fuel and transient dockage. Also home to Java Madness, which serves coffee, espresso smoothies, sandwiches and baked goods. RAM POINT MARINA (401) 783-4535; rampointmarina.com Also in the upper pond, Ram Point offers transient dockage, restrooms, showers, a marine store and supplies.

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SILVER SPRING MARINE (401) 783-0783; silverspringmarine.com In Wakefield, Silver Spring offers transient slips, ice, gas, service and repair, heated pool, ice, laundry and free WiFi.

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ANCHORAGES

Good anchorages for smaller vessels can be found inside Point Judith Pond. A popular transient anchorage exists north of Plato Island, and is marked by white floats. To access the anchorage, follow the channel until you are just north of Plato Island (don’t take the shortcut, or you’ll hit a mudflat), then cut between Plato and Gardner Islands. At low tide the water is only four feet deep between the channel and the seven-foot-deep

anchorage, so larger boats should run north of the islands and enter the anchorage between Gardner and Beach Islands.

KAYAK RENTAL

THE K AYAK CENTRE (401) 295-4400; kayakcentre.com Rents kayaks and offers courses and guided tours of the rivers and waterways of the South County area.

WHERE TO EAT

EAST BANK CHAMPLIN’S SEAFOOD DECK (401) 783-3152; champlins.com In Galilee, Champlin’s offers rooftop dining overlooking Point Judith Pond. Serves a great lobster roll. GEORGE’S OF GALILEE  (401) 783-2306; georgesofgalilee.com Also on the Galilee waterfront, George’s offers seafood and grilled items with water views, plus a take-out window on the beach. AUNT CARRIE’S  (401) 783-7930; auntcarriesri.com Located just outside Galilee, Aunt Carrie’s has served delicious seafood since 1920 and is open seasonally. BUSTER KRAB’S  (401) 284-0218; busterkrabs.com Burger shack and beach bar located across from the ferry terminal. Specializes in fresh seafood and grilled fare. WEST BANK JIM’S DOCK  (401) 783-2050 Popular waterfront restaurant and marina with dockage in Jerusalem. Outdoor dining with great water views.

CAP’N JACKS (401) 789-4556; capnjacksrestaurant.com Seafood and more, adjacent to Lockwoods Marina in East Matunuck. UPPER POND JAVA MADNESS  (401) 788-0088; javamadness.com Coffee and espresso bar; also serves smoothies, sandwiches and baked goods. Located at Stone Point Marina.

THINGS TO SEE & DO

FISHERMEN’S MEMORIAL STATE PARK (401) 789-8374 Offers walking trails and a campground for overnight stays. ROGER WHEELER STATE BEACH (401) 789-3563 A short stroll from the breakwater, this popular beach offers lifeguards, food, showers and bathhouses. POINT JUDITH LIGHTHOUSE (401) 789-0444 A 1 1/2-mile walk from Galilee village. The lighthouse is home to a Coast Guard station, and not open for tours. However, the surrounding grounds are open to the public year-round. PETTAQUAMSCUTT HISTORICAL SOCIETY (401) 783-1328 Showcases historic trivia and artifacts dating back to the settlement of South County by Europeans.

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BOATING HISTORY

Three stone columns are all that remains of the elite West Island Club.

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The story behind a well-known boating landmark that once served as home to a famous fishing club. few years ago, I met up with good friend and underwater videographer Mike Laptew at the Sakonnet Harbor launch ramp in Little Compton, Rhode Island, to embark on a kayak trip to West Island, a prominent lump of granite just east of Sakonnet Light. Our goal: to explore the small island, which served as home to an exclusive fishing club from 1864 to 1906. After a 20-minute paddle, we anchored our kayaks on the protected northeast side of the island and made our way ashore, where we were greeted by a colony of raucous gulls, which now rule the roost on this lonely outpost. Gull bones, gull nests and flightless juvenile gulls littered the rocks and weeds, while the air was filled with the cacophonous cries of birds and redolent with the stink of fishbased guano. It was no place for a picnic.

BY TOM RICHARDSON

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BOATING HISTORY

WEST ISLAND TIME TRAVEL

The scene was much different in the late 1800s, when the West Island Club welcomed some of the most influential and wealthy men in the country, including Grover Cleveland, Cornelius Vanderbilt and JP Morgan. They came here to socialize and to fish, and their main quarry was striped bass, which patrolled the edges of the surf-pounded rocks and deep holes of the islands. According to the records maintained by the club, the fishing was tremendous—at least for a time. But perhaps more remarkable than the number and size of the fish were the methods used to catch them. Although boats were used on occasion, most of the fishing was done from the rocks, just above the churning surf. The designated stations where anglers fished were known as “stands,” and each angler was allotted his spot the previous night via a roll of the dice. Guests were typically given the choicest stands as a matter of courtesy. In many places, iron stanchions were embedded in the rocks and catwalks constructed to provide supports for the anglers.

A servant and children pose in front of the clubhouse.

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The West Island Club, circa 1890.

Veteran fishing guide Charlie Soares trolls a tube lure for striped bass off West Island.

FISHING AT WEST ISLAND

The prime stand was known as the “Hopper,” a rocky projection on the island’s southeast corner. The sportsmen and their guides—also known as gillies, gaffers or baiters—reached the Hopper via a special causeway of large, flat rocks that were often submerged at high tide, making for a wet, cold slog to and from the bass stands. In addition to the Hopper, members were often rowed out to a group of small islands known as the “Clumps,“ which were outfitted with metal railings. Eventually, a small bridge was built to provide easier access to the Clumps from West Island, but the structure has long since disappeared. Among the species targeted by club members were tautog, flounder and bluefish, but by far the most coveted game fish was striped bass. Since stripers feed best in the morning, the anglers and their gaffers were usually on their allotted stands by first light. As the fisherman “jointed” his bamboo rod and readied his reel, the guide would chum the area by tossing chunks of lobster, menhaden and other fish around the stand. Once the stripers arrived to feed on the free handouts, the angler would cast his baited hook into the foaming waters where the fish were spotted. When a fish was hooked, the angler played it from his rocky perch until his guide could haul it from the water with a long-handled gaff. Landing a big striped bass amid slippery, surf-swept boulders is no easy feat, no matter what era you’re from. Anglers of the late 1800s had it especially tough. They had to rely on fragile bamboo rods, linen lines and crude reels equipped with leather “thumbstalls” to apply drag. It’s nothing short of astonishing that the West Island fishermen were able to land fish of 40, 50 and even 60 pounds with their primitive gear, and one can only wonder how many giant stripers were lost to broken lines and other forms of equipment failure.

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LOGBOOKS TELL A TALE

The club logbooks provide an intriguing glimpse into the history of striped bass fishing in the 1800s. The best action occurred in the early years of the club, from 1866 to 1875, when the total number of bass caught per season averaged 1,192. Plenty of big fish were taken, too, including numerous specimens over 50 pounds. The largest striper taken at the club was a 64-pounder, caught in 1877. From 1875 to 1906, the club saw a steady decrease in catch numbers, and there were some years when a mere 22 or 23 fish were caught. Club records show that in 1906 only six stripers were taken. The dwindling catch reflected a coastwide decline in the striped bass population, most likely due to the cyclic nature of the species (stripers have exhibited recorded periods of boom and bust since the 1600s, independent of human-induced factors such as pollution and overfishing). The decline in fishing eventually led to the demise of the West Island Club, which occurred after the 1906 season. By that time, club membership had dwindled to 17. In 1907, ownership of West and East Islands passed to club member Joseph R. Wainwright, who bought them for the sum of $7,500. Wainwright continued to maintain the former club facilities and to fish the old stands. Upon his death in 1917, the property passed to his sons, F. King and Clement R. Wainwright, who visited the island only occasionally.

View of Sakonnet Point from the summit of West Island.

FIRE & HURRICANES

Over the next decade, the buildings were vandalized and used by bootleggers, eventually falling into disrepair. In 1927, the Wainwright family presented the islands to the Espiscopal Diocese of Rhode Island, which then sold it to Newport resident Marion Eppley in 1929. That summer, a fire set by arsonists destroyed the old clubhouse and annex buildings. Two years later, the island was wiped clean by the Great Hurricane of ‘38, save for the three stone columns that survive to this day. Ownership of West and East Islands changed hands again in 1949, when Jessie Lloyd O’Connor bought them for preservation purposes. In 1983, O’Connor bequeathed the property to the Sakonnet Preservation Association. Today, West Island remains a lonely, deserted place. Scant evidence remains of human habitation, let alone a grand fishing club shared by the wealthy elite.

Special thanks to the Little Compton Historical Society for providing historic photos and much valuable information on the history of the West Island Club. Photos of the West Island Club and other Little Compton landmarks, as well as old scenic photos, books and more, can be purchased at LittleCompton.org.

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DESTINATION

MOUNT HOPE BAY

Overlooked by many boaters, Mount Hope Bay offers a host of attractive spots in which to wile away a day—or week—on the water.

BY CAPTAIN DAVE BILL PHOTOGRAPHY BY CATE BROWN

ount Hope Bay, shared by Massachusetts and Rhode Island, doesn’t get a lot of attention from boaters. But it should. The bay is filled with interesting places to dock, drop an anchor or explore in a small boat. Indeed you could fill an entire week visiting a new spot every day. Every summer, I spend a significant amount of time on the bay aboard a 36foot Union cutter, so I’ve gotten to know and love this body of water, which offers everything historic points of interest to great dock-and-dine restaurants to scenic spots where one can drop the hook and take a dip. Here are some of my favorite places to visit. The main gateway to Mount Hope Bay (which is named after a small hill on its western shore) is via the center span of the Mount Hope Bridge, with Hog Island Shoal to port and Musselbed Shoals to starboard. You can also enter, from the north, via the Taunton River, and from the south, via the Sakonnet River. Although the Army Corps of Engineers maintains a 35-foot-deep shipping channel through the bay up to Fall River, be mindful of navigational aids that mark obstructions such as Spar Island or Old Bay Rock. If sailing, you’ll also need to plan your itinerary around the strong tidal currents.

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Friendship, a 36-foot Union cutter skippered by the author, at anchor in Church Cove.

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DESTINATION

MOUNT HOPE BAY

Visiting boaters can grab a mooring in Battleship Cove.

FALL RIVIERA

The city of Fall River, once a thriving textile center, often gets a bad rap, but it offers a treasure trove of things to do and see. One of the main attractions is Battleship Cove, home to the world’s largest collection of World War II naval vessels, including the battleship Massachusetts and the attack submarine USS Lionfish. Reserve a mooring through the harbormaster’s office and you can spend the night in the shadow of these historic warships. If you wish to explore downtown Fall River, you can tie up at the public dinghy dock on the south end of Battleship Cove. If traveling with small children, don’t miss a ride on the 1920-built Fall River Carousel. You can also stroll along the waterfront boardwalk through Fall River Heritage State Park or take in a show at the Narrows Center for the Arts, a premier destination for the visual and performing arts. Few people realize that Fall River was an important stop on the Fall River Line, a combination steamboat and railroad route between New York City and Boston from 1847 to 1937. The steamboats of the FRL were some of the most advanced and luxurious of the day, and you can learn more about this era at the Marine Museum and Visitor’s Center in Heritage State Park.

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Borden Flats Light and the Brayton Point power plant are two prominent Mount Hope Bay landmarks.

DOCK & DINES

Mount Hope Bay also has a couple of dock-anddine options worth checking out. My favorites are The Cove in Fall River and The Boathouse in Tiverton. Both offer transient dockage, plus some pretty good food. It’s best to call ahead at The Cove to arrange a space, but it’s first come, first-served at The Boathouse’s pier. If you’re in the mood for a party atmosphere, take a funky detour into Borden Light Marina, directly east of Borden Flats Lighthouse. The marina always has a few slips available for transients or free dockage for daytrippers on either side of the Tipsy Seagull, the marina’s double-decker floating pub and restaurant. Take in the sunset while sipping a Tipsy Sunset and enjoying a Seagull Stuffy appetizer. You can also take the gratis Tipsy Taxi, a 1972 four-door Cadillac convertible, to visit downtown Fall River or to the equally funky Tipsy Toboggan, the Seagull’s sister fireside pub that’s decorated to resemble a Vermont ski lodge. In late August, Borden Light Marina plays host to the Fall River Grand Prix, New England’s only offshore powerboat race. Contestants compete for $35,000 in prize money on a 2 1/2-mile course on the bay and lower Taunton River.

RENT-A-LIGHT

Approaching the Braga Bridge, which connects Fall River to the town of Somerset, you’ll notice the white-and-red, 47-foot tower of Borden Flats Light, which marks Borden Flats Shoal. Built in 1881, the light is now privately owned and available for overnight stays. Renters can take a water taxi from Borden Light Marina to access the light.

SEA SAVVY

On my summer cruises, I often drop the hook off the Bristol campus of Roger Williams University, near the base of the Mount Hope Bridge, to visit one of my favorite watermen, Matt Griffin. Matt is the university’s shellfish restoration and aquaculture research associate. Among his many duties is providing technical assistance to sea farmers, conducting research on shellfish aquaculture and investigating the ecological dynamics of shellfish restoration in Rhode Island, along with managing the university’s shellfish farm. The Boathouse restaurant in Tiverton offers a long pier for boating patrons. NEWENGLANDBOATING.COM

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DESTINATION

MOUNT HOPE BAY

Anglers will find plenty of scup on the bottom of the bay.

CHURCH COVE

Breathtaking Mount Hope Farm borders Church Cove, on the bay’s western shore. I regularly anchor in the protected nine-foot hole between Seal Rock and Mount Hope Point. Although there is no public landing on the cove, you can beach a kayak or dinghy along its shore and explore the property. On the north shore of the cove is Cove Cabin, one of the property’s function venues, available to the public for rent. The farm offers lovely walking trails, a Saturday morning farmer’s market, gardens, a beautiful bed-and-breakfast and more. History buffs take note that the farm occupies the spiritual grounds of Metacomet’s Pokanoket tribe. The scenic cove deserves exploration in a kayak or dinghy, and is a great spot to cast for stripers, but larger boats should be careful of the many hidden rocks.

THREE RIVERS

The Kickemuit River, in the northwest corner of the bay, is one of my favorite gunkholes, and makes a fine anchorage in any weather. When entering the river, mind the channel markers carefully. Once through Bristol Narrows, the river opens into an expansive area. The center is deepest, with shallow water on all sides, and you can usually find plenty of room to drop the hook. In the north end of the bay, on either side of Gardiners Neck, are the Cole and Lee Rivers. The Cole is my favorite of the two, with a nice dayanchoring area just off Ocean Grove Beach. You can explore further past the small entrance at the sand spit in a kayak or shoal-draft dinghy. The neighboring Lee River is less attractive than the Cole due to the unsightly, but soon-to-beshuttered Brayton Point power plant, plus it lacks a protected anchorage. Still, the upriver areas offer some interesting paddling opportunities.

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Borden Light Marina in Fall River offers overnight slips and free dockage at the Tipsy Seagull.

MOUNT HOPE BAY AT A GLANCE DOCKAGE, MOORINGS & SERVICE

CITY OF FALL RIVER (774) 955-0123; fallriverharbormaster.org Transient moorings in Battleship Cove, just above the Braga Bridge. BORDEN LIGHT MARINA (508) 678-7547; bordenlightmarina.com Fall River marina offering transient slips, a swimming pool, hot tub, laundry, showers, grills and more. Home of the Tipsy Seagull restaurant and bar. THE COVE MARINA (508) 672-4540; cove392.com Transient slips for boats over 25 feet. Onsite restaurant with free tie-up for patrons. BREWER SAKONNET MARINA (401) 683-3551; byy.com Full-service marina on the Portsmouth side of the Sakonnet River.

LAUNCH RAMPS

BRISTOL NARROWS, BRISTOL At end of Narrows Road, on the Kickemuit River. MT. HOPE FISHING ACCESS, BRISTOL End of Annawamscutt Road in Bristol. Trailer parking available. SAKONNET BRIDGE, TIVERTON Public access to the Sakonnet River and lower Mount Hope Bay. Concrete ramp and parking. BICENTENNIAL PARK, FALL RIVER Access to the Taunton River and Fall River area. Concrete ramp with floating dock and 46 parking spaces. GULL COVE, PORTSMOUTH Public access to The Cove, which opens into the narrows of the Sakonnet River.

WHERE TO EAT

THE COVE (508) 672-4540; cove392.com Fall River eatery offering good food and transient dockage.

THE BOATHOUSE (401) 624-6300; boathousetiverton.com Tiverton-based restaurant offering upscale cuisine and free transient dockage. THE TIPSY SEAGULL (508) 678-7547; thetipsyseagull.com Festive dock-and-dine at Borden Light Marina offering live music and outdoor patio overlooking the bay. THE TIPSY TOBOGGAN (508) 567-0550; thetipsytoboggan.com Ski lodge-themed restaurant and bar near the waterfront in Fall River.

THINGS TO SEE & DO

NARROWS CENTER FOR THE ARTS (508) 324-1926; narrowscenter.org Visual and performing arts venue in Fall River. FALL RIVER HERITAGE STATE PARK (508) 675-5759 Boardwalk, benches and a three-acre meadow bordering the Fall River waterfront. BATTLESHIP COVE (508) 678-1100; battleshipcove.org Non-profit maritime museum and war memorial featuring the world’s largest collection of World War II naval vessels. Tours available. FALL RIVER MARITIME MUSEUM (508) 674-3533; battleshipcove.org Nautical-themed museum featuring memorabilia, artifacts and models of the Fall River Line steamboats and the Titanic. MT. HOPE FARM (401) 254-1745; mounthopefarm.org Wander the public walking trails of this beautiful property in Bristol. Also offers a year-round farmer’s market, bed and breakfast, and venues for weddings and other events. BORDEN FLATS LIGHTHOUSE bordenflats.com Spend the night in this historic lighthouse off Fall River.

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The New 2017 Sailfish 245DC The Latest Entry In the Versatile Sailfish Family of Dual Consoles!

Style, Seating, Storage -- The Sailfish 245DC is Compact and Complete! The Sailfish 245DC is the latest entry in our exciting dual console line-up. It boasts comfortable seating for up to 14 people, our high performance sixth generation VDS hull, highly ergonomic deck layout, and enough storage space to accommodate whatever your crew brings on board. The Sailfish 245DC is another “leader in its class” of dual consoles.

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The 245DC is extremely versatile, family friendly and yet respectful of Sailfish’s proud 30-year fishing heritage. It features a spacious well appointed step-down head, optional retractable ski-pole, in-floor and above deck storage, plenty of cup holders, and an optional galley with a sink, counters and a refrigerator. These features make the 245DC a fantastic, fun-on-the-water day boat. Deep bow seating, a three position, port-side passenger lounge, adjustable captains chair and fold-up seating surrounding the cockpit provides comfortable seating for all while allowing for maximum fishing space. Adding to its fishing credentials is a transom live well, in-floor and bow-seat fish boxes, and transom, gunwhale and hard top frame rod holders.

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MASSACHUSETTS DESTINATION

BASS RIVER

From waterskiing to fishing, dining to beachgoing—you can do it all on Cape Cod’s largest river.

lose to the heart of Cape Cod, separating the towns of Yarmouth and Dennis, flows the Bass River. For boaters, this scenic estuary that opens into Nantucket Sound is a favorite destination, a place where they can dine at waterside restaurants, relax on a white-sand beach, take in a round of golf, rent a kayak or paddleboard or learn more about the river on an educational cruise. Once considered a viable location for a canal that would bisect Cape Cod, the Bass is the largest river spanned by the Mid-Cape Highway. The mouth of the river separates Smugglers Beach on the Yarmouth side, site of an outstanding launch ramp, and West Dennis Beach, on the Dennis side. The Dennis side is also where you’ll find what is referred to as “Boater’s Beach.” “Boater’s Beach is a great spot to drop anchor and hang out,” says Bob Bratton, General Manager at Bass River Marina, the largest marina on the river. Indeed, on steamy summer days, the beach is often surrounded by boats anchored gunwale to gunwale as their owners enjoy the warm, protected water or sun themselves on shore. Boaters can also explore upriver, cruising under the Route 28 bridge, past the Bass River Golf Course, and eventually into Follins Pond. However, be aware that the Route 28 bridge, some 1 1/2 miles north of the river mouth, has a 30-foot fixed span with 15 feet of clearance at mean high water.

BY ROB DUCA PHOTOGRAPHY BY BENJAMIN BOYNTON

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Sunrise at Bass River Marina in West Dennis.

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MASSACHUSETTS DESTINATION

BASS RIVER

MARINA SCENE

There are four marinas on the river: Bass River Marina and Mayfair Boat Yard & Marina on the Dennis side, and Ship Shops Marina and Packet Landing on the Yarmouth side. Bass River Marina, on Horsefoot Cove just north of the Route 28 bridge, is the largest facility, with 160 seasonal slips on 4,000 feet of dock and a limited number of transient slip rentals. It’s also home to the popular Summer Shanty restaurant, which features live music on Friday and Saturday evenings. If you wish to dock and dine, call the marina prior to arrival and they will try their best to accommodate you. Another nearby restaurant and bar with live music and a seafood-based menu is Sundancer’s. This festive eatery isn’t a dockand-dine option, but plans are afoot to build a 280-foot dock for daytrippers near the restaurant. Also in store are a boardwalk to skirt the edge of Horsefoot Cove and dredging of the marina basin. When the three-year project is completed, visiting boaters will have easy access to Sundancer’s, and will be able to stroll along the boardwalk to the Summer Shanty.

RAMP IT UP

Aside from Bass River Marina, transient options are hard to come by on the river. Packet Landing, which is run by the town of Yarmouth, has one transient slip rental, available on a first-come, first-served basis, and there are no transient slips currently available at Mayfair or Ship Shops marinas.

Private homes flank the marsh east of the main river.

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That said, daytrippers can still have a blast, as there are several launch ramps on the river, most notably the big, triple-lane facility near the inlet. This ramp features plenty of parking and puts you within seconds of Nantucket Sound. If conditions are rough in the Sound, heading upriver will bring you to areas that are ideal for waterskiing and tubing, or fishing among protected coves.

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The Bass River is a favorite jumping-off spot for fishermen heading to the islands, Monomoy or Nantucket Sound.

Diners enjoy drinks and apps at the Summer Shanty.

PADDLING PARADISE

The river is ideal for paddleboarding.

Naturally, the river affords excellent paddling opportunities. If you don’t have your own kayak or paddleboard, stop by Bass River Kayaks, Cruises & Paddleboards, near the eastern end of the Route 28 bridge. The friendly staff here can set you up with all the gear you’ll need for a day of exploration and exercise amid the local beaches, sandbars and marshes. Or you can sit back and relax with Captain Cliff Smith on a 90-minute narrated cruise aboard his Coast Guard-certified vessel. Smith began his 30th season as captain of the Starfish this summer, and is the resident expert on the river’s colorful past, spinning tales about Vikings, sea captains, shipwrecks and windmills. “There is still one windmill from the 1790s and plenty of historic homes to see,” he points out. When kayaking or paddleboarding on the river, Smith recommends that you arrive in the morning before the wind picks up. Also, keep in mind that the current can be quite strong in spots, so plan accordingly. Paddlers can launch from three locations along Main Street.

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MASSACHUSETTS DESTINATION

BASS RIVER

Fresh produce is available at the farmer’s market.

BASS RIVER AT A GLANCE HARBORMASTERS

DENNIS (508) 385-5555

YARMOUTH (508) 760-4800

DOCKAGE, MOORINGS & SERVICE BASS RIVER MARINA (508) 394-8341 bassrivermarina.com Full-service marina with transient slips, fuel, ship’s store, rack valet service and onsite restaurant. PACKET LANDING yarmouth.ma.us Municipal marina with one transient slip available on a first-come, first-served basis.

KAYAK RENTAL

BASS RIVER K AYAKS, CRUISES & PADDLEBOARDS (508) 398-0060 capecodkayaking.com Kayak and paddleboard rentals and instructions, next to the Route 28 bridge.

WHERE TO EAT

SUMMER SHANTY (508) 394-0400 summershanty.com Waterfront restaurant at the Bass River Marina, specializing in seafood, burgers and cocktails, plus live music on weekends. Dock and dine, space-permitting. SUNDANCER’S (508) 394-1600 sundancerscapecod.com Riverside seafood eatery by day; club with karaoke, live music and dancing at night. RIVERWAY LOBSTER HOUSE (508) 398-2172 riverwaylobsterhouserestaurant.com Cozy spot for seafood and other American favorites, with weekend piano music.

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COOL SHOPS

THE CAPE CAT (508) 280-4545 capecat.com Cat-lover’s shop featuring feline-themed shirts, caps, mugs, home décor items and more. ADRENE JEWELERS (508) 394-0470 ardene.com The lastest fashion for women and teens, including swimwear, dresses, jeans, shoes, tops and accessories. SMITH’S TIME SHOP (508) 398-0848 Fascinating clocks, watches and other time-keeping devices.

The Judah Baker windmill, circa 1791.

THINGS TO DO & SEE

BASS RIVER GOLF COURSE (508) 398-9079 golfyarmouthcapecpod.com The public is welcome to play on this historic course, founded in 1900. CULTURAL CENTER OF CAPE COD (508) 394-7100 cultural-center.org Galleries for local art and diverse performances housed in a sprawling 19th-century brick bank building. PIRATE’S COVE ADVENTURE GOLF (508) 394-6200 piratescove.net Fun, elaborate pirate-themed mini-golf with 18-hole, landscaped courses featuring waterfalls and caves. EDWARD GOREY HOUSE (508) 362-3909 edwardgoreyhouse.org Explore the life of one of America’s most famous—and creepiest—illustrators. WHYDAH PIRATE MUSEUM (508) 534-9571; discoverpirates.com Learn about real pirates and check out artifacts recovered from the wreck of the Wydah off Cape Cod.

Osprey nests dot the local marshes.

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EXPLORING ASHORE

The Bass River area also offers some interesting shoreside diversions. For example, there are many shops and restaurants along Route 28, including the nearby Riverway Lobster House, which has been in operation since 1944 and has a tavern with plenty of televisions for enjoying sporting events, along with a dining room for a quieter, more upscale dining option. The nearby Whydah Pirate Museum offers an interactive experience, combining artifacts and genuine treasures to paint a historically accurate portrait of pirates from the 18th century. The Cultural Center of Cape Cod features performances and exhibitions, while the Edward Gorey House, a short drive away, provides an in-depth look into the life of one of America’s most famous illustrators. For a challenging 18 holes of golf on a course designed by Donald Ross, there’s the Bass River Golf Course, founded in 1900. Less arduous, but plenty of fun, is Pirate’s Cove Adventure Golf, a pirate-themed mini-golf course set among waterfalls and caves. With all that the conveniently located Bass River offers boaters, from watersports and dining to museums, beaches and golf, it’s easy to understand why this remains one of Cape Cod’s premier destinations.

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MASSACHUSETTS DESTINATION

MADAKET HARBOR, MA

Hither Creek serves as home to a fleet of small to midsized boats, many rigged for fishing.

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Experience a different side of Nantucket in this tranquil hideaway on the west end of the island. BY TOM RICHARDSON PHOTOGRAPHY BY TERRY POMMETT

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MASSACHUSETTS DESTINATION

MADAKET HARBOR, MA

f you love Nantucket, but are looking to escape the hustle and bustle of Nantucket Harbor, plan a visit to peaceful Madaket, on the extreme western end of the island. And if you end up liking the place, you’ll be in good company, as Madaket was once the summer retreat of children’s television host Fred Rogers. From the late 1950s until his death in 2004, Rogers spent his summers in a small, ramshackle cottage he called “The Crooked House.” Today, the humble house, situated on a sandy lane overlooking Madaket Harbor, is still owned and used by the Rogers family. But the Rogers’ legacy is only one part of Madaket’s intrigue. The harbor was also where the first European settlers of Nantucket landed in 1659, and quickly set about “procuring” land from the resident Wampanoags. In the following centuries, the area served as a quiet, isolated farming and fishing community, until modern transportation transformed it into an idyllic vacation spot in the mid-1900s.

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Madaket Harbor’s warm, shallow waters are a hit with kids.

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MADAKET HARBOR, MA False albacore tear things up in the fall.

Nantucket is sort of a lost world among Northeast fishing destinations. Things happen around this island that have no bearing on the action along the mainland, and word of these events doesn’t often filter back to the fishing community at large. Which only makes the island more alluring! Stripers and bluefish are the top draw for surfcasters and inshore fishermen from May through October. The turbulent waters of the Bonito Bar, Great Point Rip, Old Man Rip, Bass Rip and Miacomet Rip can produce awesome casting and trolling action for big stripers, as well as bluefish, throughout the season. You’ll often see both species holding in the first wave of the rip line, waiting for baitfish and squid to wash past. Dance a pencil popper on the surface and you are in for a show! If the fish are holding deep, break out a parachute jig and troll it on 150 to 200 feet of wire line, depending on water depth. The rocky bottom off Sankaty Head is a dependable spot to troll wire all summer. Bluefish can be trolled up throughout the summer and early fall anywhere along the 40-foot contour line that runs from Nantucket Harbor to Great Point. A Rapala CD-16, Yo-Zuri Crystal Minnow, Bomber Long-A or similar swimming plug trolled at three or four knots should do the trick. Keep an eye out for packs of surfacecruising blues as you troll in open water, and be ready to throw them a popper. Fluke are another popular recreational species, and the sand shoals and

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channels surrounding the island hold some real whoppers. Set up a slow drift over uneven bottom then send down a jig sweetened with a squid strip, fish-belly strip or small live bait. The famous Bonito Bar off Smiths Point typically attracts a crowd of anglers who fish for the hard-fighting—and goodeating—“bones” starting in August and running through mid-October. The drill here is to anchor on the ocean side of the bar and blind-cast or wait for a school to pop up within range. Running-and-gunning is definitely frowned upon.

Littlenecks are plentiful on the local mud flats.

The Bonito Bar also holds big stripers and blues. Many anglers anchor above the bar and fish chunk baits on the bottom for stripers while waiting for bonito to pop up within casting range. Another late-summer and fall option is false albacore. The tiny tuna typically tear things up around Tuckernuck and Muskeget Islands, as well as off Great Point, but could really pop up anywhere. Use ¼-ounce metal or epoxy jigs, or small soft-plastic Zoom Flukes or Slug-Go’s. FISHING RESOURCES BAIT & TACKLE Nantucket Tackle Center (508) 228-4081 CHARTER CAPTAINS Capt. Shawn Bristow (203) 962-8867 Capt. Tom Mlecsko  (508) 717-3186 Cross Rip Outfitters (508) 221-1201 Capt. Bill Toelstedt (917) 584-5270 NEWENGLANDBOATING.COM


IDYLLIC RETREAT

Tiny Madaket Village is little more than an enclave of summer homes and beach cottages, along with a marina, a restaurant and a small store. It’s where you can still get a sense of old Nantucket, with the Atlantic surf booming on the south shore and the quieter waters of Madaket Harbor lapping just a few hundred feet to the north. It’s a place to unwind and unplug, and revel in the natural beauty of the island. If you plan to visit Madaket in your own boat, whether for the day or overnight, be aware that there are no transient slips or moorings on this end of Nantucket. However, there is a good anchorage in the northeast corner of the harbor, tucked in behind Eel Point, and you can leave a dinghy at one of the public landings on Hither Creek. The other option is to keep your boat on a mooring in Nantucket Harbor and either bike or take the shuttle to Madaket, a distance of 5 ½ miles.

Tidal creeks provide ample shelter for small craft.

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MASSACHUSETTS DESTINATION

MADAKET HARBOR, MA

Blue crabs provide a diversion—and sometimes a meal—for children and adults alike.

Good food and drink are available at Millie’s.

Millie’s Market carries candy, ice cream, snacks, sundries and more.

MEET AT MILLIE’S

If you want to dine in Madaket or get a drink, your only option is Millie’s, the lone restaurant and bar. Named for the village’s celebrated and curmudgeonly resident, Millie Jewett, the restaurant opened in 2010 on the same site as the West End restaurant, and serves a variety of affordably priced lunch and dinner items, as well as take-out and ice cream. They also have a fully stocked bar, and serve a potent cocktail called the Madaket Mystery. What’s inside is the bartender’s secret! If you need provisions, Millie’s Market carries basic items such as eggs, cheese, milk, beer, wine and soda, plus T-shirts, souveniers and, of course, postcards of Fred Rogers and Millie Jewett. What Madaket lacks in restaurants and shops it makes up for in natural attractions. As mentioned, the harbor itself is well protected and features sprawling sand flats that are perfect for curious kids to explore and splash around on at low tide. This is also an ideal area for kayaking and paddleboarding. Madaket’s Atlantic shore is bordered by a long, sandy beach, and is a good spot for surfcasting, swimming and body surfing.

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MADAKET AT A GLANCE HARBORMASTER (508) 228-7261

DOCKAGE, MOORINGS & SERVICE

MADAKET MARINE (508) 228-1163; madaketmarine.com Full-service marina and boatyard offering fuel dock, rack storage and service. No transient slips or moorings available.

WHERE TO EAT

MILLIE’S (508) 228-8435; milliesnantucket.com Casual restaurant and bar serving a wide range of delicious lunch and dinner items.

PROVISIONS

MILLIE’S MARKET (202) 87-3142; milliesnantucket.com

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MAINE DESTINATION

GEORGETOWN

This Mid-Coast Maine town isn’t so much a destination as a state of mind.

BY KEN TEXTOR PHOTOGRAPHY BY JOE DEVENNEY

ost boaters who cruise to Georgetown never know they’ve visited this small Mid-Coast Maine town. And fewer still realize they’ve actually visited a Maine island, albeit one that has a bridge connecting it to the mainland. In fact, there’s no one way to define a Georgetown “harbor,” mainly because there is no single boater’s haven with the name “Georgetown” applied to it. But there are plenty of harbors. “Depends on how you count them,” town harbormaster George Dufour says of his multifaceted territory. “I count at least seven harbors, but it really could be as many as 15.” Moreover, depending on what the tide’s doing on any particular day, you could make a case for Georgetown being two islands, not just one. More on that later.

Boats swing on their moorings off Hen Island, part of Five Islands.

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MAINE DESTINATION

GEORGETOWN

Many Georgetown visitors set a course for peaceful, protected Robinhood Cove.

GIVE ME FIVE

Just to add a little more misdirection to the discussion, the Georgetown “harbor” that most cruisers visit is called simply Five Islands. Located on the west side of Sheepscot Bay, perhaps a day’s cruise east of Portland and with easy access in most weather, it’s a protected basin surrounded by five small islands, with room for about 35 boats on moorings. Thus, the uninitiated might think it’s picturesque and convenient enough, but why so popular? Well, it all started with a bit of national publicity it received some 15 years ago.    Beginning with the New York Times and repeated by just about every major East Coast newspaper from the Baltimore Sun to the Boston Globe, the advantages of this small haven were reduced to one major—and apparently very compelling—virtue: Food. That’s right. Whether it’s fried clams or lobster rolls or just a hot dog, the on-the-wharf takeout restaurant that has gone by various names over the years (it’s currently called Five Islands Lobster Co.) still draws hundreds daily, whether a few via the water or the lion’s share who travel the long, winding road to the well-known wharf. If you go by water, there are some guest moorings, and rowing ashore is recommended. The diminutive marina at Sheepscot Bay Boat Company also has some moorings and a gas dock. In short, Five Islands is a little primitive, but worth the stop. And the food really is pretty darn good!

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Derecktor Robinhood Marina has transient slips available.

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MAINE DESTINATION

GEORGETOWN

Reid State Park is always worth a visit— even if the water’s a bit frigid.

RIGGS COVE REFUGE

Visitors looking for more upscale facilities generally head for Riggs Cove, a few miles farther north and west along Georgetown’s roughly 35 miles of shoreline. Along the way, however, it’s possible to feel you’re getting a bit more than you bargained for. That’s because the small strait known as Goose Rocks Passage marks the beginning of the legendary tidal currents that characterize most of Georgetown’s shores. Currents in the Passage swirl and boil prodigiously during big moon tides, enough to knock even 40-foot cruisers off their course. It’s not really dangerous, though. Just disconcerting.

Lobstering is a family affair for many Georgetownians.

Once you’re through the worst of it, you’re at the doorstep of one of Maine’s best marinas, Derecktor Robinhood. Longtime cruisers will recognize the name Derecktor as one of the East Coast’s premiere boatbuilding/marina giants, with locations in both the New York City and Fort Lauderdale areas. But this version of Derecktor is a little more retiring than its sister marinas, having been acquired by the company in 2016 and still sporting its old roots in Georgetown. In fact, there is even a museum on site, detailing the 350year history of the island town and giving a reasonable explanation of how the moniker “Robinhood” departed Sherwood Forest and ended up in 17th century Maine. A restaurant, extensive repair facilities and flower gardens round out this peaceful oasis amid the tides.

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MAINE DESTINATION

GEORGETOWN

Boaters can enjoy fresh seafood at Five Islands Lobster Company.

ROBINHOOD STRIPERS

Another harbor just next door to Derecktor is Robinhood Cove, where the anchoring is just as good as the striper fishing in midsummer. The cove is huge and the currents peter out just beyond Birch Island, at the south end of the cove. The best striper fishing is north of Birch Island, and fly anglers seems to have good luck casting amid the rocky edges of the cove, snagging hungry schoolies on a rising tide. At times, the cove also turns into the knife that slices Georgetown Island in half. During big, mooninspired tides, it’s possible to take a kayak, dinghy or similar small vessel to the southernmost end of the cove and continue through salt marsh meanderings that eventually lead to Sagadahoc Bay, which is nearly in the mouth of the Kennebec River. It’s also near yet another harbor for Georgetown—a shallow little gutter known as Bay Point, just east of Long Island in the river.

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GEORGETOWN AT A GLANCE RUNNING HELL’S GATE

If shoalwater derring-do isn’t your cup of grog, you can head north out of Riggs Cove and aim for yet another Georgetown landmark: Lower Hell’s Gate. As the name implies, it’s yet another swirling madhouse of currents, where the tides run so hard they sometimes drag navigation buoys underwater. The bobbing steel buoys then become the principal danger, along with a pretty good chance of snagging a lobster trap buoy. But it all becomes worth it when you emerge in Hockomock Bay north of the Gate and find yourself in a gunkholer’s heaven. There are more Georgetown havens amid Webber, Castle and Beal Islands. Charted depths are accurate, and it’s easy enough to drop a hook in quiet, nearly current-free waters. And so it goes with additional adventuring amid Georgetown’s numerous other harbors. Harmon Harbor, Little Sheepscot River, Knubble Cove and Back River are just some of the additional spots in which you can drop anchor and relax amid the lucky Georgetown residents who have permanent moorings in this town that, to some, doesn’t seem to even exist.

HARBORMASTER (207) 371-2235

DOCKAGE, MOORINGS & SERVICE

DERECKTOR ROBINHOOD MARINA (207) 371-2525 robinhoodmarinecenter.com Full-service marina on Riggs Cove offering transient slips and moorings, an on-site restaurant, fuel, service, repair and more. Also rents vacation houseboats on Riggs Cove. SHEEPSCOT BAY BOAT COMPANY (207) 371-2442 Transient moorings and fuel dock in Five Islands area. Can accommodate vessels up to 30 feet.

WHERE TO EAT

FIVE ISLANDS LOBSTER CO. (207) 371-2990; fiveislandslobster.com Delicious seafood and more at Five Islands. Boaters are advised to grab a guest mooring and row ashore after dropping off passengers at the dock. THE OSPREY (207) 371-2530 Dock-and-dine restaurant at Derecktor Robinhood Marina. BLUE (207) 371-2616; greyhavens.com Highly acclaimed restaurant at the Grey Havens Inn specializing in fresh seafood and local produce.

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LOBSTER LANDING

The story behind what may be the best lobster roll in New England. BY MALERIE YOLEN COHEN PHOTOGRAPHY BY CARYN B. DAVIS

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hen Enea Bacci purchased a humble lobster shack in Clinton, Connecticut, on impulse in 1995, there were three strikes against him. One: He was not from town. Two: He had a funny accent. And three: He knew nothing about lobsters. Twenty-three years later, Enea and his wife Cathie—affectionately known as “the Bacci people”—preside over Lobster Landing, a seasonal harborside eatery that dispenses what is arguably the best lobster roll in New England. Come during the months that it’s open (mid-April through December), and you’re likely to see a line of fans, old and new, from Philadelphia, New Jersey, New York and Massachusetts. “The beauty of our place by the sea,” says the irrepressible Enea, “is that friends from NYC and Boston meet in the middle—it’s two hours from each city—and stay for hours. We won’t throw them out.”

LEARNING LOBSTER

Enea Bacci—who, with his white beard and woolen beanie, resembles a thin Santa Claus by way of the Gloucester Fisherman—was not to the Seven Seas born. He hailed from a hotel-and-restaurant family in the very landlocked Piedmont Region of Italy, known for its rich red wines and truffles. But definitely not for lobster. In fact, Enea’s first business ventures in the U.S. revolved around publishing then designing, building and running a successful restaurant called Bacci, in Southbury, Connecticut. It was just after selling his restaurant in 1995 that Enea took a fateful sail with friends in Clinton Harbor and saw the “For Sale” sign on the old lobster shack. He bought the place without telling Cathie. When he did, she thought he was crazy. In the beginning, it was a tough go. The learning curve was steep. It took a couple of years for the Baccis to cultivate a relationship with local commercial lobstermen, who at first looked upon these newcomers with suspicion. Now, Lobster Landing gets deliveries, most offloaded right at the shack’s back door, from eight Clinton-based lobster companies. Enea credits these fishermen with his success. “They were tremendous teachers. Without them, we wouldn’t be here today.”

Enea Bacci and friend. NEWENGLANDBOATING.COM

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LOBSTER LANDING Diners can enjoy their meal—and BOB libations—on the restaurant’s open patio.

SHACK WITH A PAST

The weathered shack, which still stands today, had been a lobster pound since at least the 1920’s. An old photo, identifying the building as “W.M. Petri Fish-Clams-Bait,” shows Model T’s parked in the same spots now commonly occupied by SUV’s and hybrids. For six years, the Baccis continued selling live lobsters. It wasn’t until 2001 that they added frankfurters and sausage-and-pepper sandwiches—sold from a hot-dog cart they purchased from a guy downtown—to serve the fishermen and “dock people” at the nearby marinas. Soon, Lobster Landing began offering hot lobster rolls, “because we had the product,” says Enea. (You will not find a cold “lobster salad” roll at Lobster Landing, as Enea believes that mayonnaise overpowers the “gentle taste of lobster meat.”)

HOW THEY ROLL

There is nothing revolutionary about the way a Lobster Landing lobster roll is prepared. It is simply a quarter-pound of freshly steamed lobster drizzled with drawn butter and stuffed into a flash-grilled bread roll. At first, the Baccis took great pains to find the perfect lobster meat delivery vehicle—traditionally a hot dog bun—trying seven bakeries before settling on one in Vermont. Most wiener rolls either dissolved from the melted butter or were so hard and crusty as to be inedible. The Baccis discovered that the longer Italian grinder rolls from Koffee Kup Bakery in Burlington held up and toasted nicely. It was a game-changer.

The Baccis use only fresh steamed lobster in their famous rolls.

Fresh-caught lobster is supplied largely by local fishermen.

LOBSTER LANDING

Because most of the Baccis’ lobsters are steamed the day they are pulled from the ocean, the meat is tender and sweet. A young and loyal staff—some of whom have worked for the Baccis since high school—use time-tested tools and techniques, including a flat mallet, to crush shells, keeping claws and other lobster parts whole. Their friendliness is also the reason many people return again and again. The whole experience, from service to succulent lobster roll, to views from the dockside deck, is a happy one. “All those people from New Jersey, Pennsylvania, New York, Massachusetts, they keep coming back because they know what to expect. Our integrity sets us apart.” According to Enea, Lobster Landing is “integrated with the marina people.” They deliver to boats at nearby marinas, or boaters can just take their dinghy over to the back of the shack for pick up. In addition to the lobster rolls ($17.50 each), hot dogs ($3.50) and sausage-and-peppers ($7.50), Lobster Landing compiles complete “lobster bakes” for pick-up or delivery. Each aluminum box contains a steamed two-pound lobster, ½-pound of steamers, six clams, an ear of corn, potatoes, melted butter and a lemon, for $40. “This is great for people who just want to stay onboard and watch the boats in the harbor, have a glass of wine, and eat a good quality meal,” says Enea, who clearly appreciates the finer things in life.

152 Commerce Street, Clinton, CT 06413 (860) 669-2005

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VIEW ASTERN

It isn’t that life ashore is distasteful to me. But life at sea is better.

PHOTO: JOE DEVENNEY

— Sir Francis Drake

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New England Boating Fall-Winter 2017