All About Fun Hobbies & Games
Hobby Shop News
Volume 1, Issue 2 7/15/2011
INSIDE THIS ISSUE:
R/C DRIFT CAR SETUPS EXPLAINED
Home R/C Drift Car Setups Explained
R/C Drift Car Setups Continued
R/C Drift Car Setups Conclusion
TC6 Factory Team Drift Kit
Lightning EPX DRIFT 1/10 Scale Drift Car
Officialy Licenced HPI E10 Falken Tire Ford GT Drift Car
Common R/C Questions Answered
All About Fun Hobbies & Games Events and What’s New!!!!!!!
NEWS: Is Hobby King Price Gouging on Shipping? You be The Judge!!
Overview In writing this, we set out to create a basic tuning guide for the community. We own vehicles that are highly tunable to suit numerous course conditions and driving styles. Why not take advantage of this? Because most of the time we don’t know where to start. Keep in mind that most tuning is to suit a drivers preference. Some like it twitchy, some like it smooth. What works for one, might not work for another. Tuning is a complex task, and when changing one thing, you often affect another. This setup guide was created as a quick reference, and runs on general cases. For more physics behind the setup, please check out http://home.scarlet.be/~be0 67749/58/. Please keep in mind this is a work in progress, and we’re not perfect. If you see an error, or would like to add to it, please Email us so that we may update the guide General While setting our cars up for drifting, we are looking for that perfect balance between slip and grip. We want our cars to drift
through the corners, but we also want control of that drift. We tune grip in or out by changing the way the chassis transfers weight i.e more grip up front equates to more steering. This is the basis of chassis tuning. All adjustments require a properly working car that is properly set up. By properly working, we mean no bad bearings, nothing binding, etc. By properly setup, we mean droop is equal side to side (not necessarily front to back), ride height is equal side to side, camber is equal side to side, etc. Changes should be made one at a time so that any change can be noted. It is best to start with the kit setup and work from there. Believe it or not, RC companies do put R&D into this and provide the most beneficial all-around setup for kits. Chassis Most chassis’ have aftermarket chassis’ in the form of graphite tubs, or two-deck carbon fiber chassis’. These chassis’ are stiffer than their OEM counterpart. Due to their stiffness, they are typically more sensitive to setup changes, and are more suited for high-grip surfaces i.e. car-
pet tracks where the increase in grip due to chassis flex is undesirable. The flex apparent in tub chassis’ provides more grip and is more beneficial for asphalt. The benefits of a flexible chassis has been noticed by top manufacturers, and incorporated into their carbon fiber chassis designs. Associated Electronics incorporated it into their TC4 and Hudy has incorporated this into their Xray cars, seen as MultiFlex technology. Chassis weight also plays a large role. Of course, electronics have a large role in this, but in general, tub chassis’ are heavier than their carbon fiber counterpart. Heavy cars will tend to be less twitchy, and less prone to being upset over bumps. That said, they will also be slower through transitions. Lighter chassis’ tend to hop and chatter more easily. Things to adjust when your car is UNDERSTEERING (no particular order) 1. TIRES/CAMBER (for Yokomo drift rings) 2. More camber in the front
R/C Drift Car Setups Explained Page 2 3. Less camber in the rear
laying it down more generally reduces 4. DROOP body roll as the car 5. Increase droop in the rear turns. However, drift6. CASTER ing has less grips, so I think the more pro7. Decrease caster angle gressive feel of a laid 8. ACKERMAN down shock may give 9. Increase Ackerman angle more grip, can some10. TRACK WIDTH one verify?) 11. Decrease in the front 36. Make shock more vertical in the rear 12. Decrease in the rear to account for low speed under37. SPRINGS steer 38. Softer springs in the 13. Increase in the rear to acfront count for high speed under39. Stiffer springs in the steer rear 14. DIFFERENTIAL 40. SHOCK OIL/PISTONS 15. For Ball Diffs 41. Thinner oil in the 16. Loosen front ball diff front/Larger piston holes in the front 17. Tighten rear ball diff 42. Thicker oil in the 18. For Front One-Ways rear/Smaller piston 19. Tighten rear ball diff holes in the rear 20. For Center One-Ways 43. TOE 21. Loosen front ball diff 44. Front Toe 22. Tighten rear ball diff 45. More toe-out 23. For Rear Spool (or Direct 46. Rear Toe Drive for Tamiya Fans) 47. Less toe-in 24. Loosen front ball diff 48. ANTI-ROLL BAR 25. For Front Spool (or Direct 49. Thicker anti-roll bar in Drive for Tamiya Fans) the rear 26. Tighten rear ball diff 50. Thinner anti-roll bar in 27. ROLL CENTER/CAMBER LINKS the front 28. Adjust inner camber link po51. RIDE HEIGHT sition more towards the cen52. Lower ride height in ter of the chassis i.e. longer the front camber link, in the front 53. Higher ride height in 29. Adjust camber link so that it the rear is more level, in the front Things to adjust for OVER30. SHOCK POSITION STEER 31. Lower Shock Position Opposite of everything listed 32. Move inward towards the above! chassis on the front HOW TO ADJUST SECTION 33. Move outward away from Tires the chassis in the rear Always the first thing to look at. Even with a great setup, tires can 34. Upper Shock Position 35. Make shock more laid down ruin it. For competitions, tire choice is often controlled to level in the front (may be source the playing field and make it more of contention. I know in grip, of a drivers competition. In gen-
eral, radials (rubber tires) offer more grip, while plastics offer less. 1. Yokomo Drift RingsWith these tires, camber should always be your first stop in gaining or loosing grip. In general, more camber means more grip, as the majority of the contact patch become rubber. 2. ABS TiresWith ABS, many people say to run 0 camber. However, more experienced drivers will tell you to have at least negative 0.5 degrees camber all around. Droop Droop is often misunderstood and confused with downstop settings. Droop is the measure of travel of the chassis from its static position, to its most extended position (see Figure XX). The downstop setting alters how much downtravel youâ€™re A-arms will experience. It is set by turning the screw in the A-arm (see Figure XXX). Therefore, altering ride-height and the downstops effect droop. Adding droop on one end will increase grip on the other. So, if you are experiencing lots of off-throttle under-steer, you can increase your rear droop. Confused? As you let go of the throttle, weight shifts forward. By allowing the rear of the chassis to travel more upward (equates to more droop), you allow more weight to be transferred to the front tires, giving more steering. Droop can be a powerful setting, and if not properly set left to right (not necessarily front to back), you can end up with a chassis that does not handle equally left to right. Caster Caster describes the angle between the king pin and the vertical (see Figure XXX). It actually leans the tire in the direction of the turn. More caster will lean the tire more in the direction of the turn. This, along with camber effects the tires contact patch. Too much or too little lean will minimize or maximize
HOBBY SHOP NEWS
R/C Drift Car Setups Explained Page 3
Ackerman end at low speeds, and increase grip Refers to the Ackerman angle, which is at the rear at high speeds. the angle difference between the wheels Differential as they turn-in. The inner wheel will al1. Front One-Way: Just as deways have to turn in more than the outer scribed, the front wheels are wheel. As you turn in more and more, only allowed to turn one-way. A the difference between these two angles one-way bearing in the diff preincrease. This is usually adjusted on the vents the tire from spinning steering turnbuckle connection on the backward. While on power, both front hub (see Figure XXX). A more anfront wheels get equal power (no gled connection will yield less Ackerman, differential action). Off-power, and vice versa. For low grip conditions, the front wheels free spin on it is generally recommended to more Actheir own accord. This give high kerman initial turn-in, and allows you to Track Width really pull through the exit of a Refers to the width of the car, measured turn, as both front wheels are from the outside of each wheel (see Figapplying maximum power to the ure XXX). Wider is better, right? For ground. Breaking becomes an stability, yes, sharp turn in, no. A narrow issue, as the nature of the onefront track width will increase the front way does not allow breaking to grip and steering. A narrow rear track effect the front wheels. In effect, width will increase steering on the front its like yanking the e-brake on a
car. With out proper attention, this causes the car to loop out much easier, and makes it twitchier at speed. Generally those who run a front one-way will run a very loose rear ball diff if not already running a spool. Center One-Way: Like the front one-way, but only disconnects the front and rear wheels from each other. A ball diff would still be used up front, so there is differential action. Yields a much milder initial turn-in, and braking is not as much of a concern. Ball differential: Typically run tighter up front than the rear. Looser in the front translates into better transitioning left to
HOBBY SHOP NEWS
R/C Drift Car Setups Explained Page 4 right, and looser in the rear translates into less transitioning left to right. Spool (direct-drive for the Tamiya fans!): A locked differential. Literally, itâ€™s a solid axle. Generally used in the rear for drifting. Typically, locking the rear would cause an understeering situation as the inner wheel is not allowed to rotate slower through a turn. However, with drifting, allowing both wheels to put equal power to the ground allows the rear end to break loose easier.
more fluent during drifts, but unfortunately suffer from understeer as compared to a car with a front oneway.
There are various techniques which I have adopted for my style. First off, consider that I run a front one-way differential, and a very tight rear balldiff. I would say that the output ratio is about 50:50.
I think we all know that excessive counter steering should be used seldomly given that our 4wd drivetrain minimizes the necessity of extreme countersteer. I've noticed that most of us countersteer fully when they prevent themselves from spinning out during corners where the car untered beyond the ideal angle. Most times, drivers let the rear "steer itself".
Other than inducing the drift by means of throttle off/braking drift with the front one-way, I usually power over into turns. This is my dominant technique for long sweepers of medium turns. During the mid drift, I pulse the throttle depending on how much I need to break the ABS from the surface or on how much I need to correct the angle. I will never completely release the throttle unless a Front one way vs. Ball Differential critical angle correction is needed.
I would first off say that when fully releasing the throttle at a general fast speed, a chassis equipped with a front one-way would induce the rear to swing out significantly during a steer in. The simultaneous actions of releasing the throttle (and allowing the rear to "lock up"), and steering into a turn, the initiation of the slide is apparent. This behavior is normal for cars equpped with front one ways. Some will agree that one-ways have an advantage for extremely complex technical tracks, especially with short S turns. Another advantage is that if needed to correct an angle assuming that you missed your ideal pivot line of a turn, a driver with a one-way can hit the brake to swing the rear out in order to correct an angle so that you can complete a hard corner rather than plowing into a wall. Although, initiating drifts by taking advantage with a one-way, if not perfected, choppy drifts may be the result. Car's with a front ball-diff tend to behave
HOBBY SHOP NEWS
TC6 Factory Team Drift Kit A very narrow chassis allows the car to roll in the corners without the chassis dragging against the track surface. This allows the TC6 to carry corner speed without scrubbing. Braking is controlled and very quick. The suspension on this car is excellent and the new suspension mounts make access much easier than in the past. It also allows you to change suspension mounting positions quickly and easily to alter roll center, anti-squat, anti-dive and track width. The drive train has is silky smooth. The motor has been moved 13mm toward the center of the chassis which helps balance the car left to right when using LiPo bateries. The Team Associated TC6 not only meets expectations but blows them away in every way possible. Features Chassis optimized for LiPo batteries and brushless motors
Motor moved 13mm in toward the chassis center, and spur gear lowered 5mm from TC5 Servo mounting slots to ensure proper fit of multiple servos Symmetrical bulkheads utilized throughout the TC6 chassis Updated steering system featuring more Ackermann options for improved steering input rate, resulting in more consistent handling VCS3 shock with hardanodized threaded shock bodies that feature bot-
tom-loaded seals and additional stroke for more up-travel at the wheels Long upper camber link option for increased corner speed Easy-access suspension arm mounting screws thread into bulkheads Titanium turnbuckles with new ballcup eyelets for easy access to ball stud Hard-anodized diff outdrives for low wear and long life 20 precision ball bearings Cross-compatibility with TC5 suspension components Hardened steel CVAs with cross-pin retaining clips Front and rear anti-roll bars included Belt drive with adjustable differential heights and belt tension and Carbon Fiber Chassis. Priced Right around $429.99 for the Factory Team Kit make the TC6 a huge winner for any type of drifting competition.
Lightning EPX DRIFT 1/10 Scale On Road Car The Lightning EPX Drift is ready to light up the track right out of the box! This bold RC car comes complete with an electric brushed motor, forward/reverse transmission, four wheel drive, and a two channel AM radio. This electrifying vehicle is fully equipped with drift
RC racing tires, a vivid polycarbonate body, aluminum capped oil filled shocks, battery and charger. Just add 8 AA batteries to the remote and you will be drifting in no time! Priced at $149.99 itâ€™s
a great beginners vehicle with all the power and performance you
need to get your drift on.
Officialy Licenced Falken Tire Ford GT Drift HPI E10 HPI Racing is proud to announce the new, forming Falken officially licensed, Falken Tire Ford Mus- Azenis RT-615K drift tires. The Falken Tire tang GT . Justin Pawlak's (who is
commonly referred to in the drift scene as "JTP") 2011 sideways sliding Ford Mustang has also been scaled down to a perfect 1/10-scale version to provide drifting fans with the most excitement and realism out there! Falken's trademark livery has been perfectly replicated onto the E10 Drift, as have the officially licensed HRE wheels, and none other than the high per-
AA's, and an AC wall charger for instant drifting excitement! Priced right around $219.99 it has every bit of the Mustang GT is performalso equipped with an ance & HPI 2.4GHz radio system, and also durability includes expected a Plazma from an battery HPI vehicle. pack, Plazma HOBBY SHOP NEWS
Common R/C Questions Answered. WHAT EFFECT WILL CHANGING MY GEARS HAVE ON MY CAR??? On an electric car, there are 2 Gears on your car that you need to worry about changing: the Spur Gear and the Pinion Gear. The Pinion Gear is the one attached to the motor, the Spur Gear being the gear the pinion comes in contact with. On a Nitro vehicle, you might have 4 gears...2 for the 2-speed on the motor and 2 for the 2-speed on the 'drive train'. Changing the Pinion or Spur Gears will result in much different results. On the Pinion Gear, the higher the number of teeth, the faster (top end) your car will have, but you will lose acceleration. The lower the number of teeth, the faster your car will accelerate, but you will lose top end. More top end usually results in less run time, also. On the Spur Gear, the higher the number of teeth, the more acceleration the car will have, but the less top end. The lower the number of teeth the more top end you will have, but you will lose acceleration. Changing the Gearing On an electric car, the Pinion is changed by loosening the screws to the motor (or, in some cases, removing it from the car) and then removing the Pinion. Slide the new Pinion on, re-install in car (if applicable), and adjust the Gear mesh. To change the Spur requires a little more work. Depending on the vehicle you own, it could be as easy as removing 2 screws or disassembling a whole portion of the car. See your instruction manual for the procedure as it applies to your vehicle. On a Nitro vehicle, changing the Pinion gears requires the removal of the motor from the car (in most cases). You will then need to remove the gears from the clutch bell and replace with the appropriate gears. Changing the Spur Gears on a Nitro vehicle requires the disassembly of a portion of the car (in most cases) to remove the gears and replace with the appropriate ones. See your instruction manual for the procedure as it applies to your vehicle. WHATâ€™S WRONG WITH MY GLOW PLUG?? Today's glow plugs, whether it be brand x or y they are all well made products, and they should give you good service. Although the life of a
glow plug is unpredictable, you should reasonably expect a dozen or more runs out of one. If you have a motor which seems to eat glow plugs, the probability is that it is suffering from one of the following three causes. Overheating A glow plug coil will melt if it gets too hot. Reasons why this happens vary. Sometimes the combination of running a motor wide open with a lean setting before you take the glow plug heater off is too much for the element. When a glow plug fails due to overheating, the end of the element wire has a tear drop shape. Unless you have very unusual eyes, you cannot detect this without the aid of a microscope or magnifying glass. Vibration If the engine is not rigidly mounted and can move around, the element is shaken from side to side with tremendous "G" forces. This literally fatigues the metal until it breaks. The only solution is to increase the rigidity of your engine mount. Shock Wave Most model engines use a steel or brass liner mounted on top of a cast aluminum case. As the engine gets older, the liner flange works its way down into the case and lowers the head with it. When the piston clearance gets down to about .010, air is forced out of the squish band area with supersonic velocity and the action on the glow plug element is like when a jet plane zooms over your house and knocks out the windows. The cure here is to raise the head with another head gasket. Less often, reasons why glow plugs sometimes fail are: Cranking the engine when it is flooded. This sprays raw fuel onto the plug and the droplets beat the element over to the side of the housing where it shorts out. Another problem that occasionally occurs is that motors sometime take to wearing abnormally, such as a cracked crankshaft chewing metal out of the bearing, or a connecting rod that is chewing metal. Of course, when this metal goes up and deposits on the plug element, the plug burns out. HOW DOES MY ELECTRIC CAR BRAKE WITH NO PADS??? The speed control performs braking by making the motor run as a generator. Some high-frequency speed controls actually charge your batteries during
braking. You adjust the brakes when you are adjusting the transmitter and speed control. On pistol-grip transmitters, you push forward with the trigger finger to apply brakes. This forward push is much less sensitive than the pulling motion used for throttle control. In effect, you have an on-off control for brakes unless you are very talented with the trigger finger. The other adjustment at your disposal is how much braking, if any, is applied when the trigger is at its neutral point (i.e. finger off the trigger.) The amount of braking you have at neutral affects the way your car enters turns and goes through them. More braking transfers more weight to the front tires and allows you to turn more, which sounds good at first. But too much braking causes the car to spin out unpredictably as it enters turns. Too much braking also slows the car down before it finishes the turn, so you have to get back on the throttle. When you get back on the throttle the weight transfers off the front and the car steers a wider arc. You will be faster with a smoother turn that carries more speed all the way through. So you see that a balance is needed in the neutral brake adjustment, and this balance may depend upon the course you are driving. Most top drivers today dial in no neutral braking at all on a typical off-road course. Push brakes are useful in order to slow down before turning into a tight corner. You want to brake while going in a straight line, then let off the brakes and turn in. If you turn while braking the rear end will skid, which may get you turned around quickly but is difficult to control lap after lap. Adjust the push brakes to slow the car as fast as possible without locking up the rear wheels. Brake adjustment depends on the motor you are using, because motors have different amounts of inherent braking. A stock motor may have a lot of inherent braking (due to its large timing advance, heavy springs, and bronze bushings) so you get significant braking without dialing in any brakes. With a modified motor you might have to dial in some brakes to get the same effect. If you run the same car in stock and modified and forget to make this adjustment, you are likely to be disappointed at the results.
All About Fun Hobbies & Games Events and What’s New!!!! R/C Race Track
We are now officially announcing the opening of the Euless Raceway R/C Race Track. As of Sunday July 10th 2011 the track will be setup and open to the public free of charge to use all day long from 12am to 6pm.
Team Associated B4.1 Ready to Run Brushless Buggy
As we go along the track and jumps will change. Right now we are in the process of building some table top ramps with pass-through's under the table top. The pass-through’s maybe used at a later date in a new track configuration. If and when we start having actual races the races will be held from possibly 6pm till 8 or 9pm.
Redcat Racing Shockwave Nitro Buggy
Well we have built a track out of PVC pipe that we set up every Sunday morning in the parking lot in front of the store. None of the other businesses on our end of the building are open on Sundays so we have the whole one end of the parking lot to our selves all day. So we thought, why not give YOU GUYS a place to bring your kids, run your cars, have fun and maybe share some tips and tricks you have picked up in your hobby travels or just share some stories about back in the day of the Grasshopper and Lunch Bucket. At the moment it’s run what you brung, So bring whatever you have and lets race. The only thing we ask is that you be courteous of others on the track.
Electrix New Boost Buggy Team Associated T4 and B4 Parts
Turnigy Lipo Batteries
RPMZ Parts from Traxxas to Losi
The Boost buggy rounds out the Electrix RC line up. It’s dependable and race friendly chassis is sure to be a hit with buggy fans worldwide. Taking cues from more expensive racing rigs, the Boost is still an Electrix RC vehicle through and through. Built to last with the durability you come to expect, it is destined to be a solid addition to the Electrix RC lineup. Each Electrix vehicle is fully ready to run, complete with all batteries needed, including the AA’s. As with all Electrix RC vehicles, you always get oil filled shocks, full ball bearings, fully painted and decaled bodies plus a nylon composite chassis built with the beginning user in mind.
Street Car Tires & Rims
True ready to run vehicle with everything included
ABS Drift Tires
Associated Hole shot Tires
ROAR and IFMAR legal
Wheels are a stylish dish type with ribbed front tires and square pin rear tires Super low slung body available in 2 color schemes (Blue – ECX3000, Orange ECX3100)
All Star Rims
The chassis is a narrow design with rolled edges to reduce drag and hanging up on irregular surfaces.
2.8 Tires & Rims Pre Mounted Chrome
24 Hour Bottom Bas-
Not only will you be able to use the track for free but we will have some R/c ment Deals cars to demo. There’s no charge and you Get some Christmas Stocking Stuffers Early get 5 minutes to try out one of the cars From Saturday July 9 to Sunday July 10 2011 only we have ready to go All Puzzles 75% OFF
If you have any questions please feel free to email, call 817-494-2647 or stop by All About Fun Hobbies & Games 415N. Main St., Euless, Tx 76039 and ask
New From Electrix A horizon hobby Brand
Redcat Racings New Electric Brushed Drift Cars
Losi XXX-CR Parts “What kind of track and where could we possibly even have a track with no field?” , you ask
NEW AND HOT!!!
Pinewood Derby Kits 75% OFF Brain Aid Games 75% OFF All Science and Education 75% off All Zing Outdoor & Indoor Foam Toys 35% OFF Train Sets 10% OFF Vintage HO Train Cars $2.00 each
Universal slider type drive shafts Transmission has an adjustable slipper clutch
4 Oil filled adjustable shocks provides great handling
2WD Transmission with gear differential makes it reliable and efficient Custom battery strap with easy to use thumb clips
Retail Price: $179.99
For a limited time get one at $119.99
Come test one out Sunday July 10th from 12pm to 6pm
Welcome to All About Fun hobbies and games, where it’s all about the fun. We are a family owned and operated full line hobby shop. We are excited to meet new people and hopefully we can grow with you in your hobby interests. The Hobby Shop News is geared towards keeping you and us informed of the changes in our hobby interests. This will be the first issue and we will send one issue a month out. As it grows we will add more content and more pages covering more than just R/c. So Stay tuned.
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Where it’s all about the FUN!!!!
education sets, even fish & aquarium supplies and much more. If
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you’re not finding what you think you should be on the website, call 817-494-2647, email firstname.lastname@example.org or better yet come on by and say hi.
NEWS: Is Hobby King Price Gouging on Shipping? You be T he Judge!! HobbyKing has recently hiked its prices for shipping goods to a number of countries using EMS. Their reasoning you ask? Because most consumers don’t calculate there total purchases and figure out how much they actually spent. Therefore they bank on the fact that the consumer is blind to price gouging on shipping.
not the case at all.
If you actually sat down to figure out how much you paid total for that $20 battery, you would be amazed.
Postage cost table"
5000mah 2C Lipo Battery $20 (excellent deal) 250grams
delivering a 0.9Kg
HobbyKing Inflated Shipping International (2 to 4 Week wait) $14.95 Actual Hong Kong post price $6..99
HobbyKing Inflated Shipping EMS Registered International (1 to 2 Week Wait despite the 3-4 day claim) $25.95 Actual EMS $18.43 Battery Connector type you are using $3 - $5 Total Battery Cost = $39.95 - $50.95 It’s not such a great deal when it’s broken down like that. Initially it was thought that this was simply a case of passing on price-rises created by EMS themselves but a bit of sleuthing indicates that this is
HKPost site quoting a figure of just US$35.25 while HobbyKing charge the customer an incredible US$93.48.
Take the example of Mexico for instance...
Customers want to know where the difference (some US$58.23) is going.
According to HobbyKing's own "Live
Is HobbyKing a bargain or actually a dud in disguise.?
the freight charges associated
Let us know what you think with a quick Email!
package via EMS
We now carry Turnigy lipos for cars. Hard and soft packs 2 and 3 cell batteries!!
However, according to the Hong Kong Post website, the actual cost is HK$227 which (according to Google's Forex) is a mere US$29.20.
Plane and heli batteries coming soon We’re here for you.
The price disparity for a Mexico-bound package weighing 1.1Kg is even worse when you choose HobbyKing's EMS shipping: the
Save More / Play More by shopping with All About Fun Hobbies and Games!!