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san francisco by c h a n t e l l e g r a dy


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editor Chantelle Grady Š2013 Chantelle Grady chantelle@chantellegrady.com special thanks Reid Cathcart, Bryan Jones, Gary Broomham, ValÊrie Lacasse, Claire Bouchard, Temi Adamolekun, Mark McGuiness & Raymond Inauen.


{ introduction }

Sourcing San Francisco

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elcome to the first volume of Sourced Cities. My name is Chantelle Grady and I’m a designer and photographer who loves exploring new cities, capturing the

details, tastes, and unique style that characterises it. Sourced Cities is a guide for the traveller, inspiration for a resident looking to rediscover their city all over again, or indulgence for those who prefer to live vicariously through the pages of a beautiful book. The first volume is based on the colourful and sunny city of San Francisco. San Francisco has a style and charm of its own. The incredibly steep hills, humming of the cable car rails, morning fog followed by vivid blue skies, and the thought provoking murals that fill the city with colour. All the characteristics that contribute to the city’s unique style. Within this guide I take you on a journey through the city. Breakfast in a cozy cafe by Ocean Beach, shopping in a few stylish boutiques, coffee and an afternoon treat stop, as well as time to wander the Mission District, China Town, and Fisherman’s wharf. And to finish the day, dinner in a great pizza and pasta restaurant followed by a stylish stay to rest your feet. All the things that I personally found unique while exploring the city. I hope the visual journey through this guide inspires you to explore the city, to sample the great food, to enjoy the sunshine and colours of San Francisco, and to find your story. • Chantelle


{ contents }

A journey of San Francisco The neighbourhoods 11 Getting around 13

{ mo r n i n g }

The fog of San Francisco Bay 17 Freshly brewed + baked 22 Local market 33 Time to wander 42 Coffee break 51 Spending pennies 61

{ n oo n }

Sunshine over the city 73 A casual lunch 79 Time to wander 84 Spending pennies 95 Afternoon treat 107 Taking it in 112

{ night }

As the sun begins to fall 119 Casual drinks 124 Dinner reservations 133 Time to wander 142 Rest your feet 151

{ mo r n i n g, n oo n + n ig h t }

A taste of San Francisco 161 Morning 164 Noon 170 Night 176 Drinks 191


{ t h e n e i g h b ou r h oo d s }

A view of San Francisco

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{1}

f i s h e r m a n’s w h a r f

{ 13 } f i n a n c i a l d i s t r i c t

{ 25 } m i s s i o n b a y

{ 37 } n o e v a l l e y

{2}

north beach

{ 14 } u n i o n s q u a r e

{ 26 } p o t r e r o h i l l

{ 38 } g l e n p a r k

{3} russian hill

{ 15 } t e n d e r l o i n

{ 27 } m i s s i o n d i s t r i c t

{ 39 } b e r n a l h e i g h t s

{4} cow hollow

{ 16 } w e s t e r n a d d i t i o n

{ 28 } c a s t r o

{40} bayview

{5}

m a r i n a

{ 17 } h a y e s v a l l e y

{ 29 } t w i n p e a k s

{41} portola

{6}

presidio

{ 18 } h a i g h t a s h b u r y

{ 30 } f o r e s t h i l l

{ 42 } e x c e l s i o r

{7} seacliff

{ 19 } g o l d e n g a t e p a r k

{ 31 } p a r k s i d e

{ 43 } o c e a n v i e w

{ 8 } r i c h mo n d

{ 20 } s u n s e t

{32} lake merced

{ 44 } c r o c k e r a m a z o n

{9}

{ 21 } i n n e r s u n s e t

{33} ingleside

{ 45 } v i s i t a c i o n v a l l e y

{ 10 } p a c i f i c h e i g h t s

{ 22 } u p p e r m a r k e t

{34} balboa terrace

{46} hunters point

{ 11 } n o b h i l l

{ 23 } s ou t h o f m a r k e t

{ 35 } s u n n y s i d e

{ 12 } c h i n a t o w n

{ 24 } s ou t h b e a c h

{ 36 } d i a mo n d h e i g h t s

presidio heights

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{ g e t t i n g a r ou n d }

San Francisco Muni

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hen you first set foot in the city of San Francisco the steep hills may seem a little daunting. Admittedly the first time I

travelled to the city I tried to walk to most places and stayed in a hotel on top of a very steep hill. Good exercise but boy was I exhausted by

the end of the day. I soon made use of the public transport system and getting from place to place within the city became a whole lot easier. The public transport system called San Francisco Municipal Railway, or referred to as Muni, consists of streetcars, biodiesel and electric hybrid buses and electric trolley coaches, light rail vehicles referred to as the Muni Metro, and the historic and world famous cable cars. You can get to most places by bus or trolley coach. The streetcars which are easily spotted by their bright colours run along Market Street and make getting to Ferry Building Marketplace, Fisherman’s wharf, and Castro easy. I’ll warn you though, you will come across a few interesting characters when travelling along Market Street. The light rail vehicles will take you to the outer parts of San Francisco. The cable cars attract many tourists and if looking for a souvenir to take back with you then no doubt you can pick up a miniature cable car as a reminder of your journey. These cars are quite a novelty and on a weekend there is a line of people waiting for a ride. Every space of the cable car will be taken up with passengers standing on the outer ledges holding onto rails. There are 3 cable car lines that take you along Powell and Mason, Powell and Hyde, or California Street. You can buy a single-ride ticket for US $2 to ride the Muni System with a transfer time of 90-minutes, or if you plan on staying for a longer period then there are 1, 3 and 7 day passes available at certain locations around the city. For locals or indefinite stays, a monthly pass option is available. To ride the cable cars it will cost you US $6.

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{ mo r n i n g }

The fog of San Francisco Bay


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{ freshly brewed + baked }

Outerlands

4001 J u d a h s t r e e t (415) 6 61-614 0 w w w.ou t e r l a n d s s f.c om

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s the fog of San Francisco Bay drifts by it’s nice to sit in a cozy cafe until the skies begin to clear. Outerlands provides the

perfect setting to do so. Located on the West Coast of San Francisco, it is a small trek to get there but I assure you well worth the trip. Combined with a walk along the foggy Ocean Beach, a slow wander through Golden Gate Park and a visit to the Golden Gate Bridge, it turns this small trek into a worthwhile journey easing you into the day. Arriving at Outerlands you will no doubt join a number of others eagerly waiting to get in. They are so busy for their Sunday brunch that you may have to write your name on a clipboard by the entrance and patiently wait for a table. Going by myself I managed to get a seat straight away but if in a group and you have to wait then order yourself a coffee and enjoy it on the sidewalk until your table is ready. The interior of Outerlands is warm and cozy with salvaged fence wood used for the walls, comfortable chairs made of reclaimed barn wood, a large blackboard indicating their drinks on offer, and large white thatched windows opening to the tables outside by the street. The food is very good. Outerlands bake their own organic levain bread which they serve with their great brunch menu. What I ordered and loved was their Dutch pancake. Baked in a cast iron pan they offer a sweet or savory version accompanied with house-made ricotta and maple syrup. They also offer other items like a fried egg open faced sandwich, house-made chili-sage breakfast sausage, or beet and farro salad as a lighter option. Ordered with a cup of San Francisco roasted Sightglass Coffee it makes brunch a highly enjoyable one. Brunch is only available on Sunday between 10am and 3pm though so if you can’t make it there then they are also open for lunch and dinner from Tuesday to Saturday. The menu is equally interesting and delicious.

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{ Lo c a l m a r k e t }

Ferry Building Marketplace

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nother enjoyable thing to do in the morning and more accessible from downtown is to visit Ferry Building Marketplace, located

in South Beach. Opening in 1898 on the site of a wooden Ferry House it has evolved and undergone renovation over the years to form what is now a marketplace serving residents and travellers to the city. This large building houses a number of restaurants, cafes, purveyors, and homeware boutiques, as well as the upper floors being occupied by office space. It’s a great place to go for a quick and easy bite, or for something a little more fancy. On a weekday lunch the marketplace is bustling with locals who work downtown in the Financial District. There are a couple places located here I particularly love. Boccalone Tasty Salted Pig Parts is one of them and as the name suggests they use all parts of a pig. Here you will find artisan salumis hanging in the fridges and a menu consisting of warm and hot paninis with condiments like mustard, pickled peppers, and fig spread. Order a panini to go and sit along the boardwalk enjoying the bay sunshine. Blue Bottle coffee is another favourite which features in the coming pages because they are so good. If you’re heading here in the morning then be prepared to line up with all the others eagerly waiting for their morning coffee. Grab a waffle as well. Sprinkled with sugar and served in a coffee filter paper they are freshly cooked, crisp, and light. On Saturday the outside of the building is surrounded with market stalls selling fresh produce, flowers, bread and other such products. It’s busy with tourists admiring and sampling the farmer’s selection, and locals filling trolleys with fresh produce to take home and enjoy.

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{ time to wander }

The San Francisco seaside

t c h o - P i e r 17 (4 1 5) 9 8 1 - 0 1 8 9 w w w.tc h o.c om f i s h e r m a n’s w h a r f w w w.f i s h e r m a n s w h a r f.o r g a l c a t r a z c r u i s e s - P i e r 33 Ho r n b l o w e r A l c a t r a z L a n d i n g (4 1 5) 9 8 1 - 7 6 2 5 w w w.a l c a t r a z c r u i s e s.c om

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he walk from Ferry Building Marketplace towards North Beach and Fisherman’s Wharf is a nice one. The Embarcadero is lined

with tall palm trees, the bright yellow F-line streetcar passing by on your left, and large piers interspersed along the North Beach stretch. On the way stop at Pier 17 and check out Tcho (pronounced shoe). Producers of luxury chocolate they offer tours of their factory and their products are available to buy as you walk inside. Packaged in colourful boxes, the chocolate is delicious and makes great souvenirs. Continue north and you will soon arrive at Fisherman’s Wharf. Now be warned, this is a tourist trap. But let’s face it, just about every city has one. Fisherman’s Wharf is the departure point for boat tours, and to visit the famous Alcatraz prison. I must admit it is interesting to visit the island and imagine what life would have been like for the prisoners kept there. But be prepared to visit with hundreds of others. I found it nice to steer clear of the crowds and admire the boats lining the piers. There are hundreds of boats of all shapes and sizes with seagulls circling between them. Continue further and you will pass a small circular beach with maybe a local or two swimming a few laps across it. And further again you will walk up to Fort Mason with the blue seaside to your right, and the Marina appearing on the other side.

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{ coffee break }

Blue Bottle Coffee

mint plaza - 66 Mint Street (510 ) 6 5 3 - 3 3 9 4 w w w.b l u e b o t t l e c o f f e e.n e t

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inding a good morning cup of coffee in San Francisco isn’t hard. Ritual Coffee Roasters, Fourbarrel, Sightglass, and Blue Bottle

are four very good roasters offering a high quality, and freshly roasted coffee. After sampling them all I personally prefer Blue Bottle Coffee. They have a number of cafes and kiosks throughout the city and it’s not uncommon to have to line up for a coffee. The Mint Plaza location just south of Market Street has a large communal table in the center of the cafe, and bars by the tall windows where you can sit and enjoy the sunshine. If you’re hungry then they also offer a full breakfast or

lunch menu, and desserts made at the Blue Bottle Kitchen in Oakland. There is something quite unique about this Mint Plaza location. At the back of the cafe is a Japanese five-light siphon coffee bar. There is a bench in front and glass separating you from the bar where you can sit and watch how siphon coffee is made. Next to it is a Kyoto-style iced-coffee apparatus which stands tall and looks impressive. They also have a San Marco lever machine, and modern La Marzocco Linea. Blue Bottle is definitely the place to go if you’re a coffee connoisseur, or for those who simply like a good and freshly roasted cup of coffee.

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{ spending pennies }

Welcome Stranger

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lowly but surely the shops of San Francisco begin to open their doors, so it’s time to do some shopping. Located in Hayes Valley

on Gough Street is a men’s boutique called Welcome Stranger. They offer a contemporary collection of clothing by sought-after brands. They carry brands like Gant Rugger, Izola, Shwood, Rag & Bone, and their very own stylish Welcome Stranger collection. Their product range includes casual everyday clothing to dressier going out attire, shoes and hats to wallets and sunglasses, and grooming products. Everything a guy needs to look stylish, coordinated, and smell good. The staff are helpful to. If you’re a guy that usually sways away from stylish stores like this for fear of not knowing how to coordinate an outfit, then don’t stress. The guys working here will know what to do.

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{ s p e n d i n g pe n n i e s }

Prairie Collective

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ead into the neighborhood of Western Addition and you will find Prairie Collective. The tiny boutique on Divisadero Street

combines unique flower arrangements with nature inspired pieces. It’s a tiny store decorated nicely with wood f loors, large windows that look out to the street, and with a light and creative feel to the space. Products are displayed in a delicate way. Pieces are placed on hand-crafted shelves made of recycled timber and metal, hung over the rails of a vintage ladder, or sitting in the spaces of an old bookcase. It’s a tiny store but you could lose yourself inside for ages as you ponder over all the small and unique pieces. They sell a collection of cards by various artists, books and boutique magazines, delicate and unique accessories, as well as nature inspired pieces like slingshots and wood whistles, and their colourful and fresh f loral arrangements. If you’re looking for something unique by a local designer then you can be sure to find it here, along with many other interesting finds.

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{ n oo n }

Sunshine over the city


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{ a casual lunch }

Woodhouse Fish Co

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oodhouse Fish Co was an unexpected find and a good one at that. If you’re looking for a great sandwich sampling some

of the freshest seafood then this is the place for it. They have two

restaurants, one located on Fillmore Street, and the other on Market. Each location is appropriately decorated with a seaside theme. The location on Market my favorite of the two with its aqua and white color palette and large windows allowing light to f low into the restaurant. The walls are covered in historical fishing images, fishing equipment, and mounted fish of numerous species. But at both locations you will find that the food and drinks are equally good. The menu consists of things like fried whole-belly Ipswich clams or clam chowder to start, sandwich options like a split-top Maine lobster roll with fries and slaw, or a main course including cioppino, a San Francisco classic, or baja-style fish tacos. My favorite is the toasted-buttered dungeness roll with fries and slaw. It is as the name suggests buttery, loaded up with crab meat and absolutely delicious. Order it with a do-it-yourself lemonade or Arnold Palmer, or a local beer, and you have the perfect lunch on a sunny day in San Francisco.

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{ time to wander }

Exploring the Mission

La Taqueria 2889 Mission Street (4 1 5) 2 8 5 - 7117 E l To r o T a q u e r i a 598 Valencia Street (4 1 5) 4 3 1 - 3 3 5 1

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ere in the Mission District you could easily spend a whole day wandering. It’s full of great Mexican food, plenty of boutiques,

and colourful and meaningful murals, painted on walls and buildings. When in the Mission the food to try is tacos. There are taquerias

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everywhere and search online for the best one and you’re faced with

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many mixed opinions. I made a stop at La Taqueria located on Mission

2790 Harrison Street (4 1 5) 5 5 0 - 6 9 7 1

between 24th and 25th Street and ordered a crispy pork taco. It was

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perfectly seasoned, crispy and really cheap. I also tried a fish taco at

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Taqueria El Toro on Valencia Street which again was very good, but it

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was the crispy pork taco of La Taqueria that I’m still salivating over. While in the Mission another thing to try is the ice-cream. There are

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two very good ice-cream places down this way. Humphry Slocombe

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and Bi-Rite Creamery. Both are exceptionally good with unusual and

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delicious combinations. At Humphry Slocombe the secret breakfast f lavour is amazing. If the sound of corn flakes combined with bourbon appeals to you then give it a try. And from Bi-Rite the salted caramel, and brown butter pecan f lavors are incredible. Another great place for a sweet (yes another!) is Tartine Bakery. This bakery has been talked about in so many reviews, and with good reason. The pastries are truly amazing. Try their sugary morning bun along with a coffee. Wandering through the Mission you are surrounded by colourful murals. The area boasts some incredible street art and there are two alleys in particular that are worth strolling down. The first is close to Humphry Slocombe. Grab your ice-cream f irst and head around the corner on 24th Street until you reach Balmy Street. This street is filled with beautiful murals dating back to 1972 and it’s worth walking slowly to take them in. The other is Clarion alley, located between 17th and 18th Street and is equally as colourful and inspiring.

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{ spending pennies }

Paxton Gate

Paxton Gate 824 Valencia Street (4 1 5) 8 2 4 - 1 8 7 2 P a x t o n G a t e’s Cu r i o s i t i e s f o r K i d s 766

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k, we have eaten enough for the moment and it’s time to burn

it off with a walk along Valencia Street. This street is lined with

stylish clothing and accessories boutiques. If you’re after something a little more obscure, or even just to admire, then head to Paxton Gate.

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Here is a store that is filled from floor to ceiling with unique pieces, oddities, and things inspired by the natural world. Taxidermy is a common theme with animals of all kinds displayed throughout the store. But if taxidermy isn’t quite your thing then maybe a fossil or a scientific apparatus is more appealing for displaying in your home. The owners of the store were originally landscape designers and part of the store stems from this background. In the back you will find plants of different species, from cacti and succulents, to bonsai or orchids. Everything you need to create an interesting garden space. As a traveller though it’s a little hard to get a plant through customs. Luckily they also sell a large selection of books, handcrafted jewelry, or vintage pictures and posters that are easier to take home with you. If you have children, then once finished in Paxton Gate walk a little further up Valencia until you reach Paxton Gate’s Curiosities for Kids. Here you will find a great collection of educational, interactive, and creative toys for children ranging from babies and toddlers through to older children or even those big kids who are still young at heart.

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{ spending pennies }

Spartan at Voyager

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nother great store located on Valencia is Spartan at Voyager. It combines an edited selection of unique objects and accessories

with men’s and women’s clothing by a group of inspiring designers. As you walk in the products on the right are displayed in a minimal style against a white wall, showcasing each piece in its unique form. To the left it’s a little edgier with clothing displayed against a wood background and potted palms giving it some life. And in the back a small hidden circular room with more unique and interesting items. They sell everything from beautiful wool blankets to handcrafted wood bowls and ceramic crockery, unique art pieces to interesting wall displays, stylish men’s and women’s clothing to shoes, clutches and bags, and a selection of jewelry. Coming here you could easily stay for an hour exploring the store, and easily spend a penny or two!

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{ a f t e r n oo n t r e a t }

Hooker’s Sweet Treats

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f like me you love sweets then pay this store a visit. I assure you, you won’t be disappointed. Located on Hyde Street in Tenderloin

is a small sweet store called Hooker’s Sweet Treats. Named after the

owner David Hooker you will find a small selection of sweet treats. Navy blues and white form the colour palette of the interior with timber tables and chairs adding warmth. A hutch by the wall is filled with vintage photos and tins, and products produced in-store for sale. By the window sits a statue of two pelicans looking out onto the street. And as you approach the counter a timber and glass display box encloses mouth watering chocolates handmade by David himself. Here I had one of the best desserts I’ve ever tasted. David suggested trying the bread pudding with caramel sauce. Served in a bowl is a rich and moist bread pudding, topped with pecans, and surrounded by caramel sauce. If that isn’t enough, as you reach the center you are surprised with a salted caramel filling. It was sweet and incredible. If the pudding sounds a little too rich for your liking then try one of Hooker’s salted caramels and enjoy it along with a Sightglass coffee.

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{ taking it in }

Alamo Square Park

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et’s pause for a moment and take in the sights of San Francisco from atop a hill. Located in Western Addition is Alamo Square

Park bordered by Fulton, Hayes, Steiner and Scott Street. This park attracts many tourists, not just because of its beauty or because it overlooks the city, but also because of its fame for appearing in the opener of late 1980s to early 90s American TV series Full House. You may recall the Tanner family picnicking in a park with a row of Victorian homes in the background? Well, this is where it was filmed. The park is bordered by beautiful and colourfully painted mansions. Within the park stands tall trees providing shade and more quiet areas to sit. And because it sits up high you have one of the greatest views across the city. After you have taken in the view then walk east along Hayes Street. Here you will find a few more stores if you’re up for more shopping, or a few cafes if you feel like an afternoon coffee.

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{ taking it in }

Golden Gate Park

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nother park worth visiting while in San Francisco, and a huge one at that, is Golden Gate Park. Starting at Stanyan Street and

continuing until the ocean this park consumes a whole 1,017 acres of land, and to walk through it will take you a while. On a weekend it’s filled with people. Travellers, young families, older couples, people exercising or playing sport, people basking in the sun, and a number of homeless individuals that have happily made the park their home. Buses run through the park so it’s easily accessible without having to walk all the way through. Within the park you will find a number of small lakes, one of which is called Stow Lake. Small paddle boats can be rented to circle the lake and benches surround the lake if sitting and taking in the view from land is more your style. The park is filled with people but huge enough that you can find somewhere quiet to sit and enjoy the surround. There is also a botanical garden near Stow Lake to wander through and a golf course on the west end of the park.

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{ taking it in }

Dolores Park

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f you’re in the Mission and feel like a rest to take in the sights, then stop at Dolores Park. Bordered by 18th, 20th, Dolores and Church

Street, it’s a popular park for the residents in Castro and the Mission. On a sunny and clear day in San Francisco this park is covered with people. I’m told by a local that many escape the bay fog to come here because you can almost be sure it’s filled with sunshine and blue skies. Sitting on the hillside on the west side of the park you have a great view of the Mission area and across the city. There are people playing sport, sitting with their groups of friends, taking their dogs for a walk, or relaxing by themselves under the shade of the tall trees. It’s not uncommon to smell the hint of “medicinal herb” in the air either! Bi-Rite Creamery is located close-by on 18th Street so if you feel like something cool then grab yourself an ice-cream to enjoy in the park.

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{ night }

As the sun begins to fall


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{ casual drinks }

Comstock Saloon

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ith the sun slowly starting to fall over San Francisco it’s time to unwind with a drink. Located at the edge of China Town

and the Financial District is a stylish bar called Comstock Saloon. Named after Henry Comstock and the f irst major US silver ore discovery in 1859 referred to as the Comstock Lode, the historical site has served as a watering hole for San Francisco since 1907, and now resides as a stylish bar appropriately styled like a vintage saloon. The space is divided into two areas. On one side you have a typical bar where you can order a casual drink and either sit by the bar or in booths against the wall. And the other has tables and chairs where you can sit and enjoy a meal from the kitchen to go with your drink. It’s this side I love with a blue and white vintage wallpapered wall and interesting selection of photographs and framed art hung around the room. And overhead old lampshades providing ambient lighting. The staff of Comstock are dressed appropriately in trousers, a white shirt and bow tie. They are knowledgeable and know how to make a good cocktail, be it a classic Manhattan, or something a little more exotic like a Country Life or South Side Cocktail. If peckish, they offer a menu from simple snacks like pretzels or marinated green olives, to a more substantial meal of braised beef shank and bone marrow potpie. Whether heading here for a quick drink or for a sit down meal, it’s a stylish space for either with the bonus of being closeby to many hotels in the downtown area. A good thing for those who like more than one beer or cocktail with the ease of getting back to their hotel!

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{ dinner reservations }

Flour + Water

2401 Harrison Street (4 1 5) 8 2 6 - 7 0 0 0 w w w.f l ou r a n d w a t e r.c om

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efore arriving in San Francisco I had read a lot about the Mission restaurant called Flour + Water. Located on Harrison Street this

is no ordinary pizza and pasta restaurant. I was lucky enough to be

offered a look behind the scenes, and even have a go at rolling dough! There is a whole team of people here during the day preparing for the evening service. In the pasta room they are producing by hand a number of types, colours and flavours of pasta. In one nights service they will go through a whole racks worth of pasta. Pizza dough is being divided, weighed and rolled with delicate hands into balls, ready for being shaped into size and cooked by the large wood-fired pizza oven in the downstairs kitchen. The chefs are conscious of preventing waste. Just about all parts of the meat they order into the restaurant they use, be it in pastas or on pizzas. And I’m told they are even developing a rooftop garden where honey is harvested and where they can grow herbs and vegetables for use in their cooking. Quite impressive and a very good example for the restaurant industry. The pizzas are incredible with toppings like a classic Margherita of tomato, basil, mozzarella fior di latte, and olive oil, or their maiele pizza of cured pork belly, broccolini, fontal cheese, spring onions, and calabrian chili. And for the pastas they offer either a tasting menu allowing you to sample a selection of their pasta styles and combinations or you can order from the main menu with options like their taleggio scarpinocc with aceto balsamico, or a veal cheek casonsei with charred padron peppers and ancho cress-almond pesto. The menu is creative, fresh, and will leave you longing for a return visit.

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{ t i m e t o WANDER }

The colours of China Town

b o r d e r e d b y B r o a d w a y, b u s h , kearny & powell street w w w.s a n f r a n c i s c o c h i n a t o w n.c om g o l d e n g a t e f o r t u n e c oo k i e f a c t o r y

A

t night it’s nice to wander through the streets of China Town. With a large percentage of people living in San Francisco being

of Asian origin, China Town runs along a few major streets and it’s

5 6 Ro s s A l l e y

huge. During the day this place is bustling with locals, filling bags with

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fresh produce and exotic ingredients. And as the sun begins to set the lights and lanterns come on, filling the streets with a colourful glow. If you happen to be in China Town before 5pm then be sure to visit the Fortune Cookie Factory on Ross Alley. Inside you will find a few employees sitting in chairs making fortune cookies. Something you don’t get to see everyday! To your left will be bags and bags of fortune cookies to buy, both in original and chocolate flavours. Once you decide the man at the front will take your money and throw in a handful of cookies for free. If like me you’re keen to take a photo of the cookies being hand produced, then it only will cost you 50¢. As you walk along Grant Avenue, look above and you will see a few hundred red lanterns strung nearly the length of China Town. At night, the stores selling Chinese products like chop sticks, silks and gadgets are still open to the public. And if you haven’t eaten yet then you have a great selection of restaurants where you can guarantee you will find a cheap and good Chinese meal consisting of things like potstickers, salt & pepper squid, or the classic chow mein.

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{ r e s t y ou r f e e t }

Clift Hotel

495 Geary Street (4 1 5) 7 7 5 - 4 7 0 0 w w w.c l i f t h o t e l.c om

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t has been a really big day walking the city and if like me your feet are tired and a little sore then it’s due time we give them a rest.

I won’t deny it, when it comes to choosing a hotel I’m really picky. It must at least be clean, comfortable and have a bit of style. Clift Hotel satisfied all criteria. I’ll warn you this isn’t the cheapest hotel but if

you can afford it, even just for one night, then why not indulge a little. Entering in on Geary Street you first walk in to a rather impressive and eclectic styled lobby. Decorated with unique chairs by Ray and Charles Eames, a thirty-five-foot fireplace with a bronze chimney, and a number of other eclectic pieces, it creates an almost surreal and dream-like setting. The staff are polite, professional, and quick to help you so you can begin to relax and enjoy your stay in the hotel. Enter your room and they are clean, fresh, and light with a colour palette of white, creamy pale yellows, orange, and lavender. The bathrooms are modern with a good shower and quality toiletries. And the most important thing? The bed. It’s really comfortable with luxurious, quality linen and pillows. It’s also nice and quiet which after a big day being out in the noise of the city you really appreciate.

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{ mo r nin g, n oo n + nig h t }

A taste of San Francisco


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{ mo r nin g, n oo n + nig h t }

Menu

{ mo r nin g }

Yoghurt parfaits and

Waffles with cinnamon sugar

{ n oo n }

Pulled pork tacos and

Grilled fish tacos with salsa roja

{ night }

Salt + pepper squid and

Chow mein and

Potstickers + dipping sauce followed by

Chewy salted caramels and

Brown butter ice-cream

{ drinks }

Do-it-yourself Arnold Palmer and

Air-Mail

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{ mo r n i n g }

Yoghurt parfaits

1 cup oats 1/4 cup slithered almonds 1/4 cup f laked coconut 1/4 cup maple syrup 1/2 tsp vanilla extract 1/4 tsp ground cinnamon 1/4 cup sultanas 1/4 tsp sea salt 2 cups Greek yoghurt 1 cup fresh raspberries, 1 cup fresh strawberries, halved Honey, to serve

Preheat oven to 175˚C (345˚F). Line a baking tray with baking paper. In a bowl, toss the oats, almonds and coconut together. Spread across the baking tray and bake for 10 minutes. In a small pot combine the maple syrup, vanilla extract and ground cinnamon and bring to a boil. Simmer for 5 minutes. Remove the oat mixture from the oven and reduce oven temperature to 150˚C (302˚F). Transfer the oat mixture into a large heatproof bowl and add the sultanas, maple mixture and salt to it. Mix to combine. Return mixture to the baking tray, spread evenly across tray and bake for 25-30 minutes, or until toasted to your liking. Leaving it bake for longer will result in a darker and crunchier muesli. Allow to cool completely. In bowls or small glass jars fill 1/3 with muesli, drizzle with a little honey, add a few spoonfuls of yoghurt, top with berries and drizzle with a little more honey to serve. Serves 4 - 6

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{ mo r n i n g }

Waffles with cinnamon sugar

1/2 tsp ground cinnamon, divided 1/2 cup caster (superfine) sugar, plus 2 tsps extra 1 1/3 cups plain (all-purpose) f lour 4 tsps baking powder 1 tsp ground nutmeg 1/2 tsp salt 2 eggs 1 3/4 cups milk 1/2 cup butter, melted 1 tsp vanilla extract

Lightly grease and pre-heat waffle iron. In a small bowl combine 1/2 tsp of the ground cinnamon with 1/2 cup of sugar and set aside. In another bowl, combine flour, baking powder, 1/2 tsp cinnamon, nutmeg, salt and 2 tsps sugar. Add the egg yolks to the dry ingredients. In another bowl, whisk the eggs. Add the milk, butter and vanilla and whisk to combine. Add the egg mixture to the flour mixture and fold to combine. Pour 1/2 cup of batter into the preheated waffle iron and cook for 5 - 6 minutes, or as directed by the waffle iron instructions. Serve warm with a sprinkle of the cinnamon sugar. Serves 4

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{ n oo n }

Pulled pork tacos

3kg (6 1/2 pounds) pork shoulder,

Rub pork pieces with salt. In a large heavy pot or dutch oven, heat

fat trimmed, cut into 3 pieces

1 tbsp of olive oil over medium heat. Add the pork pieces to the pot

1 tbsp salt

and sear until brown all over. Add the cumin, chili powder, ground

1 tsp ground cumin

coriander, beef stock, orange juice and peel, garlic, chili peppers,

2 tsp chili powder

onion and bay leaves to the pot. Stir to combine. Allow to simmer,

1 tsp ground coriander

turning meat occasionally, for 6 to 8 hours or until pork is tender

1 litre (1 quart) beef stock

and easily pulls apart. If it begins to dry, add more water to the pot.

1 orange, juiced, peel reserved 6 cloves garlic, crushed 3 dried California chile peppers 1 brown onion, peeled, quartered 3 bay leaves 3 avocados, peeled, seed discarded 1 clove garlic, peeled, crushed 3 tbsp sour cream 1 tbsp lemon juice 1 tsp tabasco sauce Sea salt & cracked black pepper 12 corn tortillas 3 plum tomatoes, diced 1/2 head iceberg lettuce, shredded

When the pork is tender, transfer to a large plate and shred the pork using forks. Keep warm and set aside until ready to serve. In a medium bowl, add the avocado, garlic, sour cream and lemon juice. Mash ingredients until smooth and combined. Add sea salt, cracked black pepper and tabasco and season to taste. Set aside. Heat a large frying pan over high heat. One by one, place a tortilla into the frying pan and cook each side for 1 minute or until crispy. Remove to a plate, repeat with remaining tortillas, and keep warm in a stack until ready to serve. To serve, top tortillas with pulled pork, lettuce, tomato, guacamole and sour cream. Serve with corn chips.

Sour cream, to serve Corn chips, to serve

Serves 4

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{ n oo n }

Grilled f ish tacos with salsa roja

6 dried Californian chillis

In a medium frying pan, heat chillis over medium heat for about 30

1 clove garlic, crushed

seconds, being careful not to scorch. Remove from pan and carefully

1 onion, diced

remove stem and some of the seeds, depending on how hot you like

1 plum tomato, chopped

it. Place chillis, a pinch of sea salt, garlic, onion, tomato and oregano

1/4 tsp oregano

in a blender and blend until roughly chopped. Add water and blend

1/2 cup water

until smooth. Heat frying pan over medium heat and add oil. Add the

1 tbsp olive oil

chilli mixture to the pan and simmer, stirring for 3 minutes. Set aside.

12 corn tortillas 2 tbsp olive oil 4 x 150g (1 1/2 pounds) f illets white f ish Sea salt & cracked black pepper 1/2 head iceberg lettuce, shredded 2 cups guacamole (recipe page 170) 3 plum tomatoes, diced 2 limes, halved

Heat a large frying pan over high heat. One by one, place a tortilla into the frying pan and cook each side for 1 minute or until crispy. Remove to a plate, repeat with remaining tortillas, and keep warm in a stack until ready to serve. Cut fish fillets in half widthways. Coat fish well with olive oil and rub with salt and pepper. Heat a large frying pan over medium heat. Add the fish pieces and cook each side for 2 minutes or until just cooked. To serve, top tortillas with lettuce, tomato, guacamole, salsa roja and 2 pieces of fish. Serve with lime. Serves 4

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{ night }

Salt + pepper squid

12 small squid hoods, cleaned

Cut one edge of the squid in half lengthways and open out f lat. Score

Vegetable oil, for shallow frying

inside each piece in a crisscross pattern. Cut each piece again in half

1/2 cup rice flour

width ways into 2 pieces. Pat dry with paper towel and set aside.

1 tbsp Sichuan peppercorns 1 tbsp sea salt 1 tsp chilli flakes 1 green shallot, sliced 1/2 lemon, to serve Fresh coriander leaves, to serve

In a mortar & pestle, add peppercorns, sea salt and chilli flakes. Grind into a rough powder. Transfer to a medium bowl, add rice flour and stir to combine. Add squid and lightly toss to coat evenly. Heat vegetable oil in a frying pan over high heat. Add the squid, in batches, and cook turning for 1 minute or until lightly golden and crisp. Drain on absorbent paper and transfer to a large bowl. Add sliced shallots and toss to combine. Transfer to a large plate along with lemon and garnish with coriander. Serves 4

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{ night }

Chow mein

2 tbsps soy sauce, divided

In a medium bowl, combine 1 tbsp soy sauce, 1 tbsp oyster sauce,

2 tbsps oyster sauce, divided

cornflour and season with sea salt and cracked black pepper. Add the

1 tsp cornflour

pork and toss to coat. Cover and refrigerate for 30 minutes.

Sea salt and cracked black pepper 500g (1 pound) pork, sliced thinly 1 tbsp cornstarch 4 tbsps water, plus 1/4 cup extra 1/4 cup chicken stock 225g (1/2 pound) fresh chow mein noodles 1 tsp sesame oil 3 tbsps vegetable oil, divided 1/2 red onion, sliced thinly 12 raw prawns, peeled leaving tails, deveined 1/2 cup cabbage, shredded 1 cup bean sprouts 4 bunches baby bok choy, halved lengthways 2 green shallots, cut into 2 - inch pieces Red chillis, sliced, to serve

In a small bowl, dissolve the cornstarch with 4 tbsps water. Add the chicken stock, 1 tbsp oyster sauce and 1 tbsp soy sauce. Season with sea salt and cracked black pepper and stir to combine. Set aside. Heat a large pot of boiling water over high heat along with a pinch of salt. When boiling add the noodles and cook, separating occasionally with a fork until noodles are al dente. Drain in a colander and rinse well. Transfer to pot and add the sesame oil. Toss to coat evenly. Heat 1 tbsps vegetable oil in a large frying pan over medium heat. When the oil is hot, add noodles to the pan and use a spatula to flatten them. Cook for 5 minutes or until noodles are crispy and golden, pressing occasionally. Place a large plate over the noodles and flip to invert them onto the plate. Add 1 tbsp vegetable oil to the pan, and slide the noodles back into the pan. Repeat process. Once noodles are golden, transfer to a large serving plate and keep warm. Heat 1 tbsp vegetable oil in a large wok over high heat. When hot, add the onion, pork mixture and prawns. Stir-fry until nearly cooked through. Remove and set aside. Add the cabbage and bean sprouts to the wok. Season with a little salt and stir-fry for 1 minute. Add the bok choy along with 1/4 cup of water. Cover and steam for another minute. Add the chicken stock mixture to the wok, along with the pork mixture, and stir-fry for 1 more minute. Add the shallots and stir through. To serve, pour mixture over the top of the noodles. Serve with chillis. Serves 4 to 6

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{ night }

Potstickers + dipping sauce

2 tbsp chilli oil

In a small serving bowl, combine the chilli oil, soy sauce and rice

4 tbsps soy sauce

vinegar and set aside.

2 tbsp rice vinegar 3 tbsps vegetable oil, divided 225g (1/2 pound) pork, minced 1/2 medium head cabbage, f inely chopped 1 green onion, finely chopped 2 slices fresh ginger, finely chopped 4 water chestnuts, drained, finely chopped 1 tsp salt 1/2 tsps white sugar 1 tbsp sesame oil 1 package wonton wrappers 3/4 cup water, plus a bowl extra

Heat 1 tbsp vegetable oil in a frying pan over medium heat. Add pork, and cook until browned. Transfer to a large bowl. Add to the bowl, the cabbage, green onion, ginger, water chestnuts, salt, sugar and sesame oil, and mix to combine. Cover and refrigerate for 6 hours or overnight. Role tablespoonfuls of the pork mixture in your hands, and place in the center of each wonton wrapper. Dip a finger into a bowl of water, and moisten the edges of the wonton wrapper. Fold the wrapper over to form a triangle shape, and seal edges pinching with your f ingers. Repeat with remaining wrappers and pork mixture. Heat remaining vegetable oil in a large frying pan over medium heat. In batches, place the potstickers seam side up into the pan and cook for 1 minute. Carefully pour water into the frying pan, quickly cover, and cook for 8 minutes, or until water and oil are sizzling. When the bottoms of the potstickers are golden brown, remove from heat. Keep warm and repeat with remaining potstickers. Serve potstickers with the dipping sauce. Serves 4 - 6

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{ night }

Chewy salted caramels

1 cup heavy cream 5 tbsp unsalted butter, cubed 2 tsps f leur de sel, divided 1 vanilla bean, split, seeds scraped 1 1/2 cups caster (superfine) sugar 1/4 cup light corn syrup 1/4 cup water

Grease an 8 - inch square baking pan, and line with baking paper. In a small pot bring the cream, butter, 1 tsp fleur de sel, vanilla seeds and bean to a boil. Remove from heat, discard bean, and set aside. In another pot add the sugar, corn syrup and water. Bring to a boil, stirring until the sugar dissolves. Allow the mixture to boil, without stirring, swirling the pan occasionally, until the mixture reaches a light golden caramel colour. Carefully add the cream mixture to the caramel mixture, and simmer, stirring frequently, for 10 to 15 minutes, or until the mixture reaches 120ËšC (248ËšF) on a thermometer. Pour mixture into the baking pan. Sprinkle with remaining sea salt. Place pan on a cooling rack and allow to completely cool for 2 hours. Once cool, carefully remove from the pan by lifting the baking paper to ease it out. Using a sharp knife, slice the caramel into even squares. Serves 4 - 6

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{ night }

Brown butter ice-cream

8 tbsp butter

In a saucepan, heat the butter until it turns a golden colour and you

2 1/2 cups heavy cream

begin to see dark flecks on the bottom of the pan (process called

1/2 cup milk

beurre noisette). Remove from heat and allow to cool.

1 vanilla bean, split, seeds scraped 6 egg yolks 1 cup brown sugar 1/2 tsp salt

In a medium sized pot add the cream, milk, vanilla bean seeds and bean, and bring to a simmer. Meanwhile, in a bowl, add the egg yolks, brown sugar and salt, and whisk until light and fluffy. Slowly add the butter mixture to the egg mixture while whisking. Slowly add the cream mixture and combine. Pour the mixture back into the pot and allow to simmer over a low heat until mixture thickens and coats the back of a spoon. Pour into a container and refrigerate until completely cool, about 2 to 3 hours. Once completely cool, transfer mixture to an ice-cream maker and mix according to the ice-cream maker instructions. Transfer to an airtight container and freeze for 6 hours. To serve, scoop ice-cream into bowls and serve immediately. Serves 8

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{ drink }

Do-it-yourself Arnold Palmer

5 cups water, divided

In a medium pot, add 4 cups of water and bring to a boil. Remove from

3 orange pekoe tea bags

heat and add the tea bags. Cover and steep for 5 - 10 minutes. Discard

1 1/2 cups sugar

the tea bags and pour into a heatproof pouring jug. Refrigerate until

Crushed ice

completely cool.

2 cups freshly squeezed lemon juice 1 lemon, cut into wedges, sliced halfway across middle

In a small pot, bring 1 cup of water and sugar to a boil, stirring until the sugar dissolves. Remove from heat, pour into a heatproof jar, and refrigerate until completely cool. To serve, place ice cubes into tall glasses, and 1/2 cup of lemon juice into each glass, along with a straw, spoon and wedge of lemon. Serve with iced tea and sugar water, letting everyone add each to taste. Serves 4

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{ drink }

Air Mail

1/2 cup honey

Place honey and water in a small saucepan and stir to combine. Heat

1/2 cup water

over medium heat until it reaches a gentle boil. Reduce heat and

3/4 cup golden rum

simmer until mixture thickens, about 3 minutes. Remove from heat

1/2 cup fresh lime juice

and refrigerate until completely cool.

Ice cubes Prosecco Angostura bitters Fresh mint leaves

Holding the glass, run a little the bitters around the sides of each glass a couple times. Place 1/2 cup of honey syrup, the rum, lime juice and ice in a cocktail shaker and shake vigorously. Divide between glasses, and top with prosecco. Serve with a sprig of mint placed on top. Serves 4

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Sourced Cities San Francisco