17 | Tortona to Giambellino

CONTEMPORARY CITIES MINI-STUDIO: COMMENTED WALK FISCHI MATTEO - FENG NING - PAULA FERNANDEZ SANCHEZ - FARNAZ OMOURI

DISCOVERY OF A MILANESE DUALITY A STROLL BETWEEN TORTONA AND GIAMBELLINO

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Professor: Laurent Devisme Tutor team: Alice Buoli, Matteo Del Fabbro, Mario Paris

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CONTENTS: 1 _ ABSTRACT & METHODOLOGY 2 _ STROLL DESCRIPTION & SOCIAL ENCOUNTERS - Largo delle Culture - Via Tortona - Carlo Troya crossroad - West-side of Via Savona - First ERP cluster - Via and Parco Giambellino - Second ERP cluster 3 _ THOUGHTS ABOUT THE FUTURE

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The abstract concept of perception means the ability to see, hear, or become aware of something through the senses. Other definition of this word is the way in which something is regarded, understood, or interpreted.

In order to understand the life conditions and the ongoing dynamics within a territory, we need to introduce ourselves in it, understand how its processes and how its citizens live and feel its spaces and possibilities.

Without going in deep into these steps we would only base our studies on the prejudices and the little mainstream knowledge that we could have about it.

Through a path of approximately 25 minutes, we met different people, having, in this way, the opportunity to ask them specific and general questions, or simply ask them what they know and feel about the areas. Our purpose was to understand how the urban environment can vary and change feelings and lifestiles of its inhabitants, between a recently reborn area like Tortona and a problematic district like Giambellino. The personal characteristics of every interviewed person also influences their reports, since their way of life is different, as well as their overall perceptions.

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P.ta Genova FS

ARMANI SILOS

San Cristoforo FS

Starting/ending point

In the map above, we identified the walk path through the different neighbourhoods, but also all the points of interests that could influence the experience of a visit in these sites.

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Interview point Walk path Linear physical barrier

ABSTRACT

ABSTRACT & METHODOLOGY

STROLL DESCRIPTION & SOCIAL ENCOUNTERS We started our walk in Largo delle Culture, one on the main centralities of the Tortona area, crossing point of many symbols that made this part of Milan one of the most active, dynamic and lively of the entire city. It’s in this point that we can, in fact, find the Spazio Base building, site of many cultural activities, art and design expositions but also music events and generalist parties. During our first visit we’ve had the opportunity to see all the potentialities of this space, thanks to the ongoing Design Week, with fluxes of hundreds of people moving in and out from the building. During other moments of the year, the ones without particular events on the schedule, this area keeps its attractivity because of the many economic activities raised during the renaissance of Tortona. Of course, the number of people that it’s possible to recognize on the sidewalks during those moments is clearly lower than during the Design Week, the Fashion Weeks, or other important moments of the year where Tortona represents a real centrality for Milan.

Largo delle Culture, starting point of our walk

Not far from this square there is also the site of Armani Silos, permanent museum of the story of the famous Italian fashion brand, designed by the celebrated architect Tadao Ando. It is an important pole of attraction during the whole year and an unmissable spot to visit for every person interested in discover the fashion identity of Milan.

Armani Silos, the newer attractive point of the Tortona Area

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WALK

Step #1 _ Largo delle Culture

Matteo, 27 years old He is born and always lived in Milan, specifically in the Forlanini district (not so far Linate Airport), but its family has Venetian origins. He usually visits the Tortona district for design events and temporary exhibitions of other kind. He’s also an assiduous visitor of the Base building for music or editorial events. His presence in the district is occasional and, outside from these specific moments of the years, he only had occasion to come in Tortona during the night in order to have dinner and spend time with his friends during in one of the many resturants and pubs that raised in the last years.

Talking about the changes that occurred recently, he noticed a clear raising of the fluxes during the aforementioned big events involving art, design, fashion, photographic and architecture exhibitions.

He knows the Giambellino area because of its fame but he has never visited it and he doesn’t know exactly what are the living conditions or the problems that afflicts the neighborhood. The only thing that he knows about it is that, recently, an urban renovation program has been approved by the municipality in order to fix many of the issues related with the management and the bad conditions of the public housing settlements. He heard about this specific project an year ago during a conference at the Ordine degli Architetti office, during a discussion between technicians of the Municipality of Milan, the Region Lombardy and the Neighbourhood Committees (Comitati di Quartiere). That’s the only occasion when he has heard something specific about Giambellino.

Henna, 25 years old Henna loves Design Week very much and has visited many of the venues that offer exhibitions and activities. This weekend she visited Tortona among other places. Although she was not very attracted by the area and the pubs with party music and the atmosphere, some of them especially attracted her, those who offered products or minimal exhibitions caught her attention.

When we told her about Giambellino, she assured me that she would never go alone in that area. She has never visited it but it did not inspire confidence if it had that reputation. I asked her if maybe it was due to prejudice, she said yes, but she also assured me that if some neighborhoods had a bad reputation, it would be better not to approach them even if it was due to prejudice.

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WALK

Around this square we have had the opportunity to interview few people, in particular during the design week, in order to understand their feeling not only about the event itself but also concerning their thoughts about the area itself and its trasformations occurred during the recent years. After every interview, we asked them about their knowledge of the Giambellino district. It has been useful for us in order to understand if Milanese people, but also external visitors, are, in a certain way, conscious about the duality of the surroundings and their issues.

Federica, 24 years old

Paula, 21 years old She is an Erasmus student from Spain and a student of the Bicocca University. She has never been in the neighborhood of Giambelino so she can’t imagine such a zone and with such problems, near a zone that has a lot of social and economic activity during the Design Week. Viale Tortona seems for her such a curious street and with a really charming ambient during these days. Every other day she would never pass through it. She entered in few cafÊs and pubs of this area and she really enjoyed them and the general social climate that she felt all around.

We showed her some pictures from the neighborhood Giambellino. A surprised expression came out on her visage. She could not understand how and why the administrations do not take care of the buildings (public housing ones) that are there. She also recognized that, in case of renewal of those building, their shapes and design could be easily compared to other beautiful buildings located in the center of Milan.

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She is a part-time worker in a hostess and event organization company located in the Tortona district.

For this reason, she daily frequents the area also in those moments of the year when there are no particular ongoing events. She really enjoys spending also her free time here because of the many activites that has settled recently. She told us about the issues of being a young woman alone in certain parts of the destring during the late night hours: a quite strong feeling of being unsafe because of the kind of people that you can find on the streets. Anyway, during the day and the early evening she really loves to stay here.

She pass through the Giambellino district sometimes in order to reach her work location but she has never recognized any issues related with livability of the neighbourhood. For her it is just an occasional transit zone.

Step #2 _ Via Tortona

In this part of Via Tortona we met Luca, an architect that was visiting the Mudec Museum during the design week.

Luca, 28 years old

He is an architect who lives in Motta Visconti, not so far from Milan, and actually works in the city center at the CZA Studio. He visited the area of Tortona only twice, the first time for a party at the Spazio Base and the second time for an exposition at the Superstudio site. This is his third time in Tortona, in order to visit the spaces of the design week, while in the past he always preferred other Fuorisalone’s locations as Brera and Ventura-Lambrate. Also if he is not a frequent visitor of this part of the city, he knows pretty well the history of the district and he recognized, during the last years, the clear intention, by both municipality and private investors, of renovate this former industrial settlement as a new important cultural centrality, almost at the international scale. He mentioned a series of locations that, nowdays, represents this change: the aforementioned Spazio Base and Superstudio, the MUDEC museum, Armani Silos, etc.

These new cultural activities, together with the opening of attached services as resturants, cafĂŠs and nightlife locations made of Tortona one of the most active settlements of Milan during the last decade. This is, for him, the most important characteristic of Tortona: a positive example of urban reconversion of a former problematic area that, otherwise, would be just the starting point of the southern periphery of Milan.

Despite these consideration, he has been negatively impressed by the lack of public transportation connections, in particular after the end of the underground services.

About the Giambellino district, he has been able just to recognize the name but he did not know anything about the problems, the characteristics or even the fame of this neighbourhood.

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By moving forward in via Tortona in direction of Giambellino, we can see many other spots involved in the transformation of the former industrial district. The ongoing dynamics of this part of the neighbourhood are very similar of the ones of Largo della Culture. In fact, here we can find sites of the same use and nature as the Superstudio space and maybe the most important single element of Tortona: the Mudec Museum. The latter is a contemporary art museum designed by the studio of David Chipperfield, inaugurated in 2015. It represents, nowdays, the definitive symbol of the renovation process occurred in the Tortona District during the last two decades and, as well as the Armani Silos (but with a broader potential users spectrum) it is a pole of attraction working the whole year. By moving forward on the street it is possible to recognize the first signals of change, in correspondence with the end of the exposition sites in the the middle of it. During the Design Week, also the commercial activities located in this part of the street become active locations open to public as exposition sites but, during the year, this part of the neighbourhood is way less frequented than the previous one. Anyway, the gentrification process is still strongly recognisable by walking on the street and the former industrial buildings give both a sense of continuity and a certain perceivable identity to the whole area.

Entrance of the Mudec Museum, located in Via Tortona

External spaces with facilities of the Design Week, Via Tortona 31

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Step #3 _Carlo Troya crossroad

WALK

By reaching the end of the street we encountered the first real physical barrier and separation element of division in between Tortona and Giambellino: Viale Carlo Troya.

It is a six-lanes vehicular road, hardly crossable by the pedestrian fluxes. In correspondence with the end of via Tortona, on the other side of the crossroad, we can see a mall with a big parking in front of it. At this point we are forced to make a little deviation by reaching via Savona after having crossed Via Troya.

The different urban environment on the other side is immediately recognisable, highlighted by the many ethnical activities and high residential buildings located in this area (developed in the second half of the 20th Century). This is the beginning of the Giambellino district, also if we are still far from the most problematic locations of it. The dwellings are, in fact, totally private on this part of the neighbourhood and a week sense of renovation of the district is still tangible by paying attention to certain details of the environment.

Six-lanes-road in correspondence of via Carlo Troya, physical barrier between Tortona and Giambellino

In correspondence of the crossroad we met a young couple with their newborn child, Andrea and Lucia. They are not from Milan but they are frequent visitors of via Savona for personal reasons. The discussion with them has been really interesting, also concerning the changes of the area during the last decade.

Andrea, 36 years old & Lucia, 33 years old

We met Andrea and Lucia, a young couple walking with their newborn child, in the public garden at the very end of via Tortona. They were spending the afternoon in the garden before going to meet a friend who owns a clothing shop in via Savona. They come from the municipality of Pavia but they come here very often in order to meet this friend of them. Through the years, the have been spectators of the many changes of the district but also of the contradictory lack of development of the surrounding areas. They told us that the evolution of Tortona has brought positive effects for both the previous inhabitants, in terms of new spaces for the collectivity, quality of services and connections, and for the economic activities, with a strong increase of potential customers, in particular during the periods when Tortona represents a primary centrality for Milan: the Design Week and the Fashion Weeks. They told about the starting bad feeling, by the old inhabitants, about the chaotic life that can be perceived during these moments. More recently, the radical improvement of facilities and available services has assured the support of anyone. Also the kind of people that you can meet on the street now is quite different, because of the attractivity that the area has obtained for a certain kind of users during the whole year. Moreover, they told us that they walked through the other side of via Savona before reaching the garden. What impressed them has been the really small number of people that the met on the street, number that has raised after crossing viale C. Troya. In their opinion, the transformation is slowly moving also in that direction but the general feeling of detouchment and development difference is still clear and strong.

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Step #4 _ West-side of Via Savona

WALK

After the little deviation from the path of Via Tortona, we reached the part of Via Savona located in Giambellino. This could be the most difficult part of the entire walk to be described for many reasons. First of all, the people on the street is very limited and not influenced by the presence of events in Tortona. In fact, no changes are detectable by visiting this area during the Design Week or in any other day. It is has long straight path with only one relevant presence in the middle of it, Piazza Enrico Berlinguer, with a totally renewed historical building in the middle of it and services of different kind all around it. This is the only spot where a strong intervention of renovation is immediately recognizable and also the greater presence people in this square underlines its importance for the life of this part of the area.

Moving away from this place, we are still in the same environmental condition of before: high residential buildings (some in a good condition, some in a worse one), few commercial activities with a majority of ethnical characterization, and a general lack of social life of any kind.

The dual condition of the facades of the buildings of Via Savona is the reflection of the neighbourhood ongoing renewal process. Here it is possible to find both well conserved recidences and commercial activities but also still abandoned former industrial and residential fabrics

In this part of the walk we met Julieta, a foreigner student who lives in Milan since last year.

She was in a café located in Piazza Berlinguer and was waiting for her friends after having visited the Design District of Tortona. As an external visitor, she didn’t know about the issues of Giambellino so we ended our discussion talking in general about the feelings about the environmental changes during the path that she has done as well as us and the prejudice that afflicts a problematic neighbourhood as Giambellino.

Julieta, 25 years old

She is a master’s student, she’s Greek and she’s been here for a year, she’ll probably stay another one living in Milan.

After a little discussion about what we were looking for by our walk, Julieta says that she does not have prejudices even if they are poor or problematic neighborhoods, so she would go there without any problem. She is surprised by the changes that you can feel from the urban environment during the walk, from an area so crowded during this time of the year to another almost deserted, with few immigrants and little else (referring to the lack of services and activities). She believes that the government should help that area, instead of spending money on other unimportant things, as the excesses of this week, even though she has also visited many of the places that offer activities and exhibitions during the Design Week.

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The most controversial point of the street: Piazza E. Berlinguer. The historical and restored building in the middle is surrounded by fabrics dated in the second half of the 20th Century, with services and activities at the ground floors

The urban environment of this part of Via Savona is extremely various, interesting and promising but the social and economic activities are still limited, as well as the overall attractivity of the street for potential external users

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Step #5 _ First ERP cluster

WALK The first impact with the social housing cluster: ERP buildings on the right, private ones on the left and new constructions on the background (in direction of San Critoforo train station)

At the end of Via Savona we finally entered into the heart of Giambellino’s ERP settlement, in particular the elder part of it. The scenery that appeared in front of us was desperate. This first public housing block is, probably, the older built part of Giambellino, as readable by the particular style of the dwellings. This could have been a reason for the renovation of it. Instead, the condition of the facades is clearly terrible, with encrusted and falling plaster, missing or dangling venetian blinds, thrash all around and inside the internal small gardens. The people on the street is a little more numerous than on the previous part of the walk, probably because of the higher housing density of this area. On the ground floors there are the rooms of many labor unions and associations focused on the integration of immigrant people. The private activities can be counted with the fingers of one hand.

A little dog park is located behind the block, in correspondence of the building site of the new M4 underground line. This is probably the first spot of the walk where any kind of gentrification or renovation process is still missing, also if, by looking over the roofs of the houses, you can easily see contemporary buildings not so far from this site. The hope for the future is that the development of the metro line will by a significant catalyst for the improving of the living conditions of the whole area (public housing included).

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Vittorio, 66 years old We have met Vittorio in a parallel street of via Giambellino, right outside the social housing block.

We have followed him for a couple of minutes, while he was slowly walking and looking around for something that we couldn’t recognize. Then we approached him.

He is a retired person who lives alone in the Province of Sondrio that was there in order to find one of his friend who lives inside the public dwellings of Giambellino. This was his first time in the neighbourhood but he immediately recognized the duality of it, with the differences between the social housing block with the private building around it. He recognized the very bad conditions of the facades and of the external fornitures of the social dwellings and he was impressed by the fact that his friend, who lives in there since 1973, never told him anything about his living conditions. We started talking for a while about the reasons behind the overall situation and he felt really sorry for not being able, in the past, to recognize the reasons behind certain complaints, that were too general in order of being understood by an external spectator, made by this friend of him during the past.

After our talk, he left us and restarted his walk around the block in order to research for the right main entrance.

WALK

Around this first public housing block, we met Vittorio. We followed him for a while because he seemed lost during its walk around it. So we decided to understand what was he looking for and what were its feeling about the place.

The desperate conservation condition of the ERP block is enphasized by clear signs on the facade, as the falling plaster, but also by the carelessness with which wastes are left everywhere in the internal courtyards of the cluster

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Step #6 _ Via and Parco Giambellino

The people, in both the green area and the street, is very limited but here we had, probably, the most important social encounter of our walk: Silvia, a middle aged woman former inhabitant of the second ERP settlement who lives, nowdays, in the surrounding part of Giambellino.

Silvia, 49 years old She was a former inhabitant of the public housing block. Now she lives outside Giambellino but still near to here because she decided to live near to her daughter who still stays inside the ERP settlement. When we have found Silvia, she was walking with her daughter’s dog in the little doggarden behind the public housing block. A lot of her friends still live here and she likes to walk around during her free time in order to meet them in the garden or at the entrances of the residential block.

In her opinion, nothing has changed through the many years that she spent there, and the neighborhood has always been in a terrible condition. She told us about when a venetian blind of her former dwelling felt down and almost killed a person who was walking on the street. Despite that, before leaving the dwelling she tried to buy that house but Aler never accepted any kind of solution of these kind so she decided, together with his husband, to leave the building. The only thing that has changed, more or less in the last decade, is the ethnicity of a part of the inhabitants, the newer ones, but she didn’t tell it as a problem or a negative thing for the neighbourhood. By talking about prejudices, now that she lives outside Giambellino she can see what outsiders can see and feel, how maybe it seems a dangerous place if observed without knowledge of what happens inside those walls.

During her life, she has never seen any kind of illegal activity, as robbery, drug dealing, etc. She mentioned the problem of illegal occupation as a daily reality, but she was not sure if to condamn or not that kind of activity because of the many empty rooms that are there and cannot be rented because of their conditions. In order to better explain to us this kind of prejudices she told us a story about a girl, friend of her daughter: her parents never let her go to their house because they though it could going to be unsafe for a child.

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WALK

After this first dramatic view of the public housing settlement, we fastly wanted to visit the second, and even more controversial part of the Aler’s owned public dwellings. In order to do it, we crossed Via Giambellino until the little Giambellino Park, located in Largo dei Gelsomini. On this part of the street the number of private activities is higher than around the first ERP block, also if a quite general decadence of the spaces and the buildings is perceivable. The garden itself is in a pretty good condition, also if the facilities are very limited. The impression is that this park has become, actually, another physical separation element able to mark the difference between the “private” Giambellino, and the major public housing neighbourhood.

Parco Giambellino, undersused and with bad conserved facilities, has become an urban void and a barrier in between the private and the public residential settlements

Generic private residential buildings along via Giambellino in a quite good condition if compared with the near public ones

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Step #7 _ Second ERP cluster

This is a very large housing settlement, a giant presence inside the urban tissue, totally made of four-floors residences, typologically equal for the whole neighbourhood. Despite it, the aesthetics of the buildings is various, as well as the condition of the facades. Many graffiti are present on the walls, while few windows are broken or dangling.

The few services are located just along Via Giambellino, mainly cafes and small markets, while in the middle of the dwellings there is nothing of this kind. Here, inside the settlement, it seems really difficult even to find a single person walking around; the impression is to stay inside a recently abandoned village. The hanging clothes out of the windows and a couple of cars moving on the streets are almost the only signs of social activity. If the sense of distance between Tortona and Giambellino was strong, here the distance is within Giambellino itself, caused be both the building typology and the general sense of abandonment.

As already said before, the condition of the facades of the buildings is not homogenous. Many of them are pretty well conserved, probably recently painted, but the majority of them is worrying: smog stains everywhere on the walls, unusable terraces, detached plasters, dilapidated entrances are just few of the problems immediately recognizable by only crossing these streets.

They are the perfect representation of the condition described by Silvia during her interview, but also by the information obtained during our research about Aler’s real estate management in this area. The duality of the condition is probably the direct reflection of the problem of the unusable and illegally occupied dwellings (more than 600 only in this neighbourhood). The lack of fund granted by Aler for the renewal of the dwellings and the inability to access occupied ones by the local administration are problems that seem too big to be solved in a short term.

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WALK

We finally reach the end of our brief travel from the gentrificated district of Tortona to the non-plus-ultra of the public housing settlement in milan: the former workmen district. It has represented, in the past, a settlement critical at the national-scale because of the presence of organized criminality groups as the Vallanzasca’s one and the Brigate Rosse (communist terroristic group).

In proximity of Piazza Tirana, we had another important encounter: a former architecture student who made a research focused on this settlement during her last year of University.

She has been living in Milan for 5 years. She lives in Porta Venezia District. She hardly goes to Tortona District, because it is not so convenient for her to go there and she thinks Giambellino is quite far and not so well connected. But she knows Giambellino neighborhood well, because she made a research of this neighborhood last year, especially focused on the Aler buildings. So she is quite aware of the issues this neighborhood is currently facing.

She thinks the life quality in the neighborhood might be sort of double faces. Because from one side, Giambellino has the issues, like Aler’s absence, lack of maintenance and lack of funds to keep these houses livable. But on the other side, there is quite a strong identity and sense of belonging. Many local associations have their headquarters in the market of that area. They are promoters of better life in the neighborhood. Her final opinion about Giambellino is not so negative, especially thanks to these local actors that try to be involved in the neighborhood life. The recently approved masterplan for the new San Cristoforo railway, together with the new underground line passing through the district may be a good chance for a diffuse renovation of the district, also for the public settlement.

In certain points of the settlement it is hard to believe to be visiting a part of Milan

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Laura, 26 years old

If compared with the situation of the first ERP cluster, in this settlement the sense of abandonment and decay is even stronger, emphasized, in this case, by the residual waste all around the streets

The deterioration is not limited at the facades of the buildings. By looking inside the courtyards the problems are even more severe

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THOUGHTS ABOUT THE FUTURE

Both the aforementioned dualities are emphasized by the presence of physical separation elements: the six-lanes-road Carlo Troya, the mall in between the two districts, the Giambellino public garden. In this sense, the presence of the first ERP settlement, the elder one, immersed within the consolidated fabric of Giambellino, represent an exception. This did not lead to a better general condition for those buildings and the sense of inclosure and separation is anyway perceivable.

Duality, in this sense, is a more generic concept in order to describe the various gentrification ongoing dynamics: totally accomplished in Tortona, with significative signs of changes in via on the other side of via Carlo Troya and with few precise interventions outside from the public housing clusters.

The main question is about the future of these places. The better prospect is the inclusion of Giambellino within the projects for the development of the M4 line and San Cristoforo (masterplan recently approved designed by OMA). In parallel the ongoing gentrification from Tortona will progressively keep its effects until reaching the most problematic zones of the district. The interlacement of different externalities of both projects and spontaneous processes could give to Giambellino a total new perspective for the years to come.

The new infrastructural network will be an important opportunity in order to open windows of potential changes for the entire area of Giambellino. In terms of attractivity, OMA’s project will be a new pole for the entire city, while the improvement of the train line, ending in San Cristoforo, could cause the involvement of private investors for the creation of a new economicworking pole and a consequent transformation for the entire surroundings.

If the railway will provide fluxes of people mostly coming from outside the city (commuters or occasional visitors), the development of the M4 line (estimated ending in 2023) will strongly improve the connections within Milan, which is nowdays one of the main limitations for the growth of this zone.

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FUTURE

This is where our walk ended: a short travel through a path full of contradictions and open questions. The better way, in order to summarize the changes of the urban environment during the walk, is through the use of the concept of “duality�. Not only between Tortona and Giambellino, clearly evident for every conscious visitor, where the first one represent the most important large-scale renewal intervention for a former industrial park of Milan of the last 50 years, while the other neighbourhood is still a partially isolated residential island with problematic public housing clusters within it. The duality is evident also inside Giambellino itself, with the private settlements that have been able to achieve few goals of renovation a nd conservation, while the public ones are still in a bad, sometimes desperate, condition for both the building and the people living there. It is impossible not to consider the problem of the illegal occupation in this brief synthesis as a central question for the future of the ERP settlements that must be solved through the end of the conflicts between ALER and the Municipality of Milan.

FUTURE

The map below (2) tries to summarize these potentialities in order to understand what could be the Giambellino of the future in a coherent system starting from P.ta Genova train station, passing through via Tortona/Savona, involving the whole area of Giambellino and ending in the new park of San Cristoforo. The final result, if correctly driven by a correct public management, could become a victorious example of large-scale urban renovation and, finally, a concrete chance for the improvement of the living conditionof the inhabitants of this forgotten part of the city.

P.ta Genova FS

ERP ERP

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set.

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San Cristoforo FS

Potential urban mending Exist. masterplan San Cristoforo Externalities-effects San Cristoforo Tortona Zone (consolidated gentrificated tissue) Ongoing transformation area Problematic ERP settlements Railway (expected future improvement) New underground line M4 Commented walk path Potential direction of future gentrification processes Potential direction of the effects of San Cristoforo’s development

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