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Editor in Chief & Creative Director
Alejandro Villalobos Subires Macarena Row
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Mary Jane Subires firstname.lastname@example.org
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Communications Manager Lucía Vázquez
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Maria del Mar Rojas
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CONTRIBUTORS Remona Caverly, Chara Rourke, Sharlene Clowers, Keli Lauritsen, Homer Borrelli, Julianne Ruehl, Misti Witts, Kaye Burtenshaw, Manual Diblasi, Mauricio Kimler, Emilie Phou, Sylvie Mcclane, Dorla Rotz, Daron Calfee, Dee Dacanay, Ardath Kawakami, Mildred Boll, Estelle Mau, Violette Ciccone, Aline Linden
Chloe Clover María Doyle Avalon Rodriguez Melissa Villalobos
All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in whole or in part without permission from the publisher. The views expressed in Trashure Magazine are those of the respective contributors and not necessarily shared by the magazine and its staff. The magazine welcomes new contributors but can assume no responsibility for unsolicited manuscripts, photographs or illustrations. ISSN 2300-2764 - Published every month
F-ABRIC BIODEGRADABLE FABRICS MADE FROM PLANTS ARTICLE JOHN MARAJ
arkus and Daniel Freitag, two graphic designers, founded Freitag in Zürich in 1993. What happened to the cloth that covered the trucks when it is changed to a new one? When checking that this cloth finished in the scraps and dumps, they decided to give a new life to him through the recycling. This was the first model of wallets and handbags that did not have much success until they moved, in 2006, to a building made up of 6 marine containers placed in a pile decorated with bright colors. They presented a collection of more than 1500 different designs of handbags, shoulder bags, suitcases, wallets and accessories for mobiles that had great acceptance in the university public. After the success among the young, they spread through Europe thanks to Internet success. Today, they have physical stores in Cologne, Berlin, Hamburg, Vienna, Tokyo and New York. The Swiss sustainable fashion company Freitag, known for reusing truck tarpaulins in purses, has launched a new line of 100% biodegradable clothing, from a new compostable textile development, the F-abric . This new fabric of European origin, is composed of vegetable fibers that once finished its useful life, will serve as fertilizer for plants. Freitag was looking for a new line of clothing for its employees, but with a fabric and a carbon footprint with the least impact on the environment. That meant that the product had to be “local” with a extension of no more than 2,500 kilometers from Zurich, the headquarters’ brand. After 5 years of intense research, they launched F-abric, a fabric composed of flax and hemp fibers from France, Austrian beeches, spinach in Slovenia, Tunisia and Italy, and woven in Portugal and Poland. After this European “tour”, the fabric can be considered local, taking advantage even of the buttons and sewing thread of other trousers. Once the product was obtained, and after the design phase, the company launched a line of simple clothing that includes men’s trousers in three colors. For the woman they have released a bib collar dress and another Henley in two colors, plus unisex short sleeve t-shirts in four colors, all completely biodegradable.
Recycled clothing the latest bet on ‘low-cost’ chains ARTICLE EVA BLUME
he ‘eco’ consciousness is gradually reaching the big chains. Times when fashion recycled were only important for small stores and NGO are gone. Now H&M launches 16 garments made from reused cotton that will be in stores by next fall. In addition, the H&M Foundation has announced that it will create the ‘Global Change Award’ initiative which will award a one million euro grant to environmentally friendly textile projects. This new ‘eco-friendly’ proposal is composed, among another garments, from three types of ‘jeans’ for women, a denim jacket and a breastplate. For them, H&M proposes a jacket and pants with different shapes. Children’s fashion also does not escape from eco-friendly design. “We are creating a closed circuit in the textile industry, where old clothing can be recycled and become a new one. This not only minimizes the textile waste, but also reduces the need for new resources as well as the impact that fashion has on our planet” says Karl-Johan Persson, CEO of
H&M, in a press release. There is a new element in fashion industry: friendly environmental manufacturing. In this way, H&M manages to close the ‘fashion cycle’, making use of the garments from its manufacture to its recycling. The beginning of the process begins precisely in the containers that the chain has installed since 2013 in each of its stores, which customers can put clothes that are not going be used anymore. So far, the brand has collected 14,000 tons of fabric. In addition, the benefits of this initiative go to social projects. Now the chain has made a step further by reusing these fabrics to make new products, although from now only 20% of cotton is recycled. H&M awares that there is a new group of environmentally conscious consumers, that is why the company has committed to increase the number of products made with recycled fabric by 300% compared to 2014. According to the company own calculations, 95% of textile can be reused or recycled.
CIGARRETES AND DISKS NEW WAYS OF RECYCLING ARTICLE ENRIQUE SUBIRES
lothes made with cigarette butts. This is the case of the Chilean designer Alexandra Guerrero, who has found a way to recycle the fibers of the cigarette filters (those you can fine everywhere), in clothes that are fashionable and especially ecological. The process begins with the work of collecting these wastes in pubs, restaurants, streets, etc. and their subsequent purification. Finished this stage the butts are stained and incorporated to a base of natural fiber of sheeps wool and later to be spun artisanly in function of each garment, like jackets, hats, gloves, etc. How to make buttons with recycled disks? The case of Francisco Veliz and SebastiĂĄn RamĂrez industrial designers from University of Chile began as any academic process. As schoolmates they both faced the same challenges: working and becoming passionate about what they were doing. This is how they began to carry out projects together and realized that they had an affinity and the same interests. They always had many things in mind and the products they created made a lot of sense. This is how they once created the Duotipo company. Its managers recycle and transform the centerpieces of 1.44 megabyte floppy disks into buttons. So far they have produced several hundred red, blue and yellow buttons that they sell in stores. The choice of diskettes derived from the analysis of obsolete products that were not being used in the houses, which had been replaced by better performing ones and that were being accumulated.
MADE IN MED
Mediterranean garbage pops up turned into a collection of clothes ARTICLE ALMUDENA JOLIE
coembes and the Ecoalf Foundation join forces to cleanse the Mediterranean Sea waste. This worlwide innovative program aims to recover marine waste to transform them into premium yarn to create fabrics. The project currently counts with the collaboration of more than 160 trawler fishing vessels in the Valencian Community (Spain), thanks to the collaboration of Ecoembes. The rest of the littoral Mediterranean will be added in the near future. The marine ecosystems of the Mediterranean are rich, which places it among the best in the world. In order for these environments to maintain their splendor and biodiversity, it is necessary to collaborate with each and every one of the people who visit them. Conscious of this, Ecoembes, the organization that takes care of the environment and promotes sustainability through recycling of containers, and the foundation Ecoalf have joined forces to cleanse the Mediterranean through an innovative worldwide project, “Upcycling The Oceans. “ The objective of this initiative is to collect sewage from the seabed since they account the 80% of the waste that exists in this environment, some-
thing pioneering worldwide. To do this, both organizations will collaborate with trawler fishing boats that collect the waste to transform it into high quality yarn to create fabrics. Thus, the project benefits on a dual basis to the environment care since the waste is removed favoring the maintenance of the environment and, on the other hand, it avoids the extraction of new raw material for the manufacture of garments and accessories. The project started in September 2015 with the help of the Ecoalf Foundation and currently has the collaboration of more than 160 trawlers from the Valencian Community that collect the marine debris and deposit them in the containers arranged in the port for that. Subsequently, plastic PET containers are selected, which are recovered for recycling. Once treated, this type of plastics is converted into pellets that allows the elaboration of the thread with which the garments and accessories of the brand are made. On the other hand, the rest of the waste is sent to the conventional recycling channels for recovery. Ecoembes, in its commitment to bring waste separation beyond homes, joins “Upcycling the Oceans” with the aim of promoting this project to
the rest of the Mediterranean Sea regions and to encourage the recovery of other waste, beyond Of bottles made of PET plastic, such as film, steel and aluminum, among others, in order to transform them into useful raw material for other sectors. Within this project, and thanks to the extra effort that the fishermen make every day, 59 tons of waste have been recovered from a year to this part, with which the fashion company has developed the first collection of such fabrics, without Need to resort to other natural resources. The collection, which has been presented this morning, combines sustainability and trend by putting the accent on sophisticated and timeless garments, with a color that ranges from the most natural tones to the attractive blue ones derived from a strong inspiration, the sea. Following the participation of Ecoembes in this initiative, it is expected that over 190 tonnes of waste can be recovered during the next year. The details of this new stage of the project have been presented by Óscar Martín, CEO of Ecoembes, and Javier Goyeneche, president and founder of Ecoalf. Also present were Luis García, representative of the Provincial Feder-
ation of Fishermen Guilds of Castellón, and Antonio Cabanes, fisherman of the Cofradía de Peñíscola. “From Ecoembes we want this project to be the spearhead of a common work that takes care of nature as its main objective. Any step in this direction is little. We have to continue to implement projects of this dimension because what we play is a lot. We play our future and our planet, “says Óscar Martín, CEO of Ecoembes. Javier Goyeneche, President and founder of Ecoalf, says that “unfortunately the majority of the world does not pay enough attention to problems that threaten our oceans and require urgent action. Waste and pollution are choking our seas. That is why we decide to start with this unique, complex and pioneering project to help clean up the oceans and create the first generation of recycled products from marine litter that has the same quality, design and technical properties as products that are not recycled “. Within the framework of its Strategic Plan 20162020, Ecoembes aims to encourage recycling wherever citizens are. To do this, it seeks to be present in those places where the generation
of household packaging waste is high. Beaches are one of the key activity areas for the entity, so it is carrying out different projects together with other organizations such as the Biodiversity Foundation, the Zero Waste Association, the RĂŠlec Chair, the Clean Landscape organization or KAI Marine Services. About Ecoalf Ecoalf was born in 2009 with the idea of creating a truly sustainable fashion brand. We thought that the most sustainable was not to continue using natural resources of the planet, therefore, recycling could be a solution if we were able to create a new generation of 100% recycled products with the same quality, design and technical properties as the best non-recycled . In this way we demonstrate that it is not necessary to continue digging deeper and deeper in search of oil, but that it can be recycled waste and converted into fabrics of the same quality, and sometimes superior, than the best ones not recycled. About Ecoembes Ecoembes is the non-profit organization that manages the recovery and recycling of plastic containers, cans and briks (yellow container) and cardboard and paper containers (blue container) throughout Spain. In 2015, more than 1.3 million tons of light packaging and carton and paper packaging were recycled throughout the country, achieving a recycling rate of 74.8%. Thanks to this percentage, the emission of 1.2 million tonnes of CO2 into the atmosphere were avoided, equivalent to removing 25.8% of vehicles registered in the city of Madrid. The reduction of polluting gases has not been the only benefit that has been achieved at the environmental level. In the course of 2015, consumption of 4.6 million MWh has also been avoided, equivalent to the annual energy expenditure of 47.5% of smartphones in Spain and 24.8 million cubic meters of water, the amount of water saved during 2015 is equivalent to the showers of all citizens of Madrid for a month.
Studies and innovation The waste management and processing industry has become one of the most advanced in Europe, with 393 recycling facilities and 54 cutting-edge sorting plants. Ecoembes is working to apply innovation to the entire packaging life cycle, from its origin until it is given a new life, including the pick-up model and the technology used to recycle it. The best waste is the one that is not produced and thus does not have to be recycled, as evidenced by the firm commitment to eco-design. Since Ecoembes started its activity, they have been working with companies to create more sustainable packaging with a reduced environmental footprint. This has already resulted in packaging that is 17% lighter. Thanks to these initiatives Ecoembes has been
able to save over 444,000 tons of raw materials as a result of the over 34,450 preventive measures developed since 1999. There are three different research sections: 1. R&D studies on green jobs, the pick-up and processing of waste, recycling, management models and new materials. 2. Documentation on the Ecoembes Chair through which, since 2004, the Universidad Politécnica de Madrid has offered a Master’s in “Sustainable Waste Management”, a graduate degree designed to train qualified professionals to work in companies and public agencies involved in the management of municipal solid waste. 3. Various studies on the packaging and consumption of packaged products and the consumer.
3. Various studies on the packaging and consumption of packaged products and the consumer. Ecoembes partners with materials associations, private companies, universities and technical colleges to develop different studies and research projects in an effort to find new technical solutions that optimize every SIG process. Promote innovation Innovation plays a crucial role in recycling. That is why Ecoembes is working to ensure its presence in the entire process, from the time a container is manufactured until it becomes a new product or raw material, including the technology used to pick it up and recycle it. One of Ecoembesâ€™s main commitments in this area is to eco-design, that is, the creation of
more sustainable packaging. Ecoembes encourages companies to adopt measure during the packaging manufacturing process to reduce its weight, facilitate its reutilization, improve its recyclability and incorporate recycled raw materials. In short, we are working so that packaging will have a smaller environmental footprint.Since 1999 Ecoembes has promoted over 37,000 eco-design measures that have resulted in 470,000 tons of raw materials being saved.
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THE NEW PLASTIC
Portuguese engineer patents biodegradable packaging from MUSHROOMS ARTICLE LUCÍA VÁZQUEZ
lexandra Rebelo, a young mechanical engineer from the Portuguese University of Trás-os-Montes, has patented a novel system to make containers from forest residues colonized by mushrooms. They are “totally biodegradable” packaging, according to the University, based in the Portuguese city of Vila Real. The objective of their work was to contribute to the reduction of CO2 emissions to the atmosphere, since traditional containers are usually constructed from materials from petroleum, with chemical compounds such as “polystyrene”. During the investigation, numerous combinations of forest or agricultural residues with different mushrooms were tested in order to optimize the mechanical characteristics of the final product. The key, according to the study, was in the chitin of mushroom, which is what, in the end, will bring the necessary rigidity to the packaging to protect the product that carries inside. In this way, from natural residues and with the combination of the mushrooms, -three varieties were tried-, it was possible to create a container very resistant to blows. The researcher, together with the University of Trás-os-Montes, hopes that the new-patented product can now be commercialized, both in Portugal and in the rest of the world. One of its main applications will be as a planter for the transport of reforestation or ornamental plants. The initiative, which is part of the doctoral thesis of the engineer, has been coordinated by the teachers of the University of Trás-os-Montes, Paula Luisa Braga and Guilhermina Marques. Both highlighted that in this work “the use of new technologies with eco-friendly materials have been allied”. Over the past decade, universities around the world have focused on the development of biodegradable compounds for the manufacture of all kinds of tools to replace
polymers derived from petroleum products. These polymers have many uses, for plastics, clothing or packaging, but the problem is that they are quite polluting. In this case, the goal was the development of a “green polymer” that already has the approval of ValorFito (dedicated to the management of packaging and agricultural waste).