Formerly City Palate
The flavour of Edmontonâ€™s food scene | November December 2011 | thetomato.ca
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City Market Downtown on 104 St. is now open indoors at City Hall. Saturdays, October 15TH through May – 10:00 am to 3:00 pm city-market.ca
Contents editor Mary Bailey firstname.lastname@example.org
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copy editor Amanda LeNeve
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contributing writers Peter Bailey Judy Schultz Debby Waldman
6 10 12 14 22
Curtis Comeau Photography Martine De Graaf Darcy Muenchrath
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the tomato is published six times per year: January/February March/April May/June July/August September/October November/December by BGP Publishing 9833 84 Avenue Edmonton, AB T6E 2G1 780-431-1802
Santa Baby Gifts for the gastronomically obsessed
Holiday Wines From your rich uncle and cash-strapped friend
The Art of Coffee Photo essay | Curtis Comeau
Holiday Menu Daniel Costa, corso 32
Gifts to Make Stylish goodies from your kitchen to give or to get | Mary Bailey
5 8 20 24 28 30
Dish Gastronomic happenings around town
Feeding People The truth about latkes | Debby Waldman
Beer Guy The golden age of beer | Peter Bailey
Kitchen Sink What’s new and notable
Wine Maven Mary Bailey
According to Judy I’m dreaming of a retro Christmas | Judy Schultz
Cover: Christmas dinner at Darcy’s. Darcy Muenchrath illustration, darcymuenchrath.com
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KeepEdmontonOriginal.com Exercise your power as a consumer thoughtfully.
The Tomato | November December 2011 3
Love wine? Take a WSET class with The Art Institute of Vancouver. Level 2 Intermediate Studies in Wines & Spirits starts in January 2012 Level 1 Foundation in Wine & Wine Service starts in April 2012
Love French wine? Become a French Wine Scholar. Intensive weekend courses begin in January 2012.
To register www.winecollege.ca or 1-800-667-7288 Highly practical and exciting professional wine education programs by the London based Wine Spirit Education Trust (WSET) are designed to satisfy every palate; novice, enthusiast and expert. WSET is considered the gold standard and is offered in over 50 countries, The Art institute of Vancouver, shortlisted for WSET Educator of the Year and awarded the 2009 WSET Highly Commended Trophy, offers WSET programs in Edmonton.
gastronomic happenings around town |
Cook! Fresh Flavourful Family Meals Deborah Anzinger, Whitecap Books, $24.95 In her cookbook aimed squarely at working parents, home economist (and Edmonton resident) Deborah Anzinger puts paid to the idea that busy families have to rely on convenience foods. Her message is: nutrition, flavour, energy, and vitality; if you want your family to have it, cooking at home is the way to get it. She not only provides some great family recipes your kids will actually eat, she shows how to get the family cooking and eating together.
How to Cook Bouillabaisse in 37 Easy Steps: Culinary Adventures in Paris and Provence Diane Shaskin and Mark Craft Voconces Culinary, $25 Former Edmontonians Diane Shaskin and Mark Craft (founders of Planet Organic Markets) share their love of France in this chronicle of their culinary adventures — food markets in Paris, learning how to make the perfect roast lamb and tasting their way around the 56 French AOC cheeses.
Back to Baking, 200 Timeless Recipes to Bake, Share and Enjoy Anna Olson Whitecap Books, $40 There’s much to love about this new book by Sugar’s Anna Olson. It’s hardcover, which feels so much better than a paperback. It’s well organized by recipe type, such as cookies, special occasion and holiday. There is a large section on specialty baking for dietary needs, such as gluten-free, low sugar and dairy free. The finely detailed section called Before You Bake has tips that even veteran bakers will appreciate. It’s an excellent bible for neophyte bakers and a good compendium for those whose cookbook library is already filled with Regan Daley, Dorie Greenspan and Rose Levy Beranbaum.
Soup: A Kosher Collection Pam Reiss Whitecap Books, $24.95 Soup lovers rejoice. You don’t have to cook kosher to find robust soups in Winnipegger Pam Reiss’ update to her 2004 book. It’s easy to navigate with good tips on technique, calorie and nutrition info, with over 150 recipes.
Freddy’s War Judy Schultz Brindle & Glass, $19.95 We’re big fans of Judy Schultz’s first fiction book, Freddy’s War. Well, we’re big fans of Judy period. But even if we didn't know Judy, we’d still love this book. It’s the story of a young man who goes to war, what happens to him and the people who love him. It’s raw, compelling, quite sad. We couldn’t put it down. Now we can’t forget it. And yes, there’s food writing — writing so evocative you can smell and taste every noodle.
The Tomato | November December 2011 5
Santa baby, Slip a sable under the tree, For me.
Santa baby, a 54 convertible too, Light blue.
Pro Gold Ceramic Baking Pan
Santa honey, there's one thing I really do need, The deed, To a platinum mine. Santa baby, Come and trim my Christmas tree, With some decorations bought at Tiffany’s. When Eartha Kitt crooned her ode to visible signs of affection for Christmas she wasn’t talking pots and pans.
Stinson Studio hand-made Canadian maple salad bowl
To the gastronomically obsessed, however, a deed to a vineyard or a full set of Riedel Sommelier crystal is much more useful than a Tiffany-trimmed tree. Well, maybe not. If neither vineyards, nor fragile crystal, nor baubles from Tiffany are on the radar this year, what is the top culinary gift for 2011?
6 November December 2011 | The Tomato
Staub Enameled Cast Iron Cookware
Vietri Old St. Nick Tableware
Zwilling Spirit Thermolon Non-stick Fry Pans and Pro Gold Ceramic Baking Pans “The culinary gift of the year is definitely Zwilling Spirit non-stick fry pans with Thermolon granite ceramic coatings,” says Stasia Nawrocki, proprietor of Dansk. What’s so special about these pans? The three-ply base construction, superior non-stick hard ceramic finish, scratch resistant, no PFTE coating, with handles that stay cool, and they are on sale through December. Sale prices range from $20 for the 8-inch pan to $85 for the 12.5 inch. “My second pick is ceramic-coated bakeware made by a company called Pro Gold,” says Stasia. “These cookie sheets have a double layer of non-stick ceramic coating. They work really well and clean up beautifully. The 17.5" x 11.5" baking sheet is $25.”
Staub Enameled Cast Iron Cookware Gloria Lockie at Call the Kettle Black loves Staub cast iron enameled cookware. “The dimples on the inside of the lid puts moisture back in the food, and the black matte enameled interiors are easy to clean,” she says. “Best of all we have Staub on sale until the end of December.” Staub Dutch ovens, pans, teapots and tagines come in several luscious colours. Price range is $135-$350 depending on the item.
Vietri Old St. Nick Tableware “We have some serving pieces and tabletop items in a pattern called Old St. Nick,” says Karen Visser, owner of Bella Casa. “Prices range from $20 to $297. They are from the Vietri company — handcrafted and Italian made.”
Zocalo Pizza Kit “Pizza stones are hot, no pun intended,” Miranda Ringma of Zocalo says. “They're all the rage for creating great thin-crust pizza. We stock a great basic pizza stone with metal rack, 14.5"/ 37cm diameter, in natural bisque. It’s oven safe, and comes in a gift box. Be careful to hand wash as it could crack in the dishwasher, $20. “Does your culinarily-obsessed love pizza night? Combine the pizza stone with the WMF stainless steel pizza wheel, $20; Tipo 00 Molina pizza flour ($6) and a beautifully functional Ritzenhoff beer glass ($45) to round out the perfect gourmet pizza gift.”
Zwilling Spirit Thermolon non-stick fry pans
with wood accents, is masculine and elegant.
Marcato Stainless Steel Pasta Maker
“The pieces are compact and ideal for the modern kitchen — these are meant to sit on the counter and be shown off — yet they all have superior technology and performance.
As we learn in Corso 32’s Holiday menu (page14) making pasta isn’t hard, it just takes practice. A good place to start is with a good quality pasta maker. Most good machines come with separate attachments that allow you to make more than one shape. Look for all-stainless machines made in Italy (or Japan, but you’ll pay a lot for that). This pasta maker is as straightforward as they come, a cinch to operate, sturdy enough for frequent use, and easy to keep clean ($70 at the Italian Centre Shop).
“For example, the espresso machine’s Thermoblock 15 bar pump means faster preheating and less limescale, making it easier to clean, and the precise tamping system promises a uniform result and better tasting espresso. You don’t usually get those sorts of features in a home machine.”
Please see “Santa Baby’ on page 18
Krups Silver Art Collection Espresso Machine Susan Lamash of Jave Jive loves the new Krups Silver Art Collection; espresso machine, coffeemaker and kettle. “They are beautiful to look at, first of all; the design, stainless steel and chrome
Stinson Studio Hand-made Canadian Maple Salad Bowls Another item Gloria loves are the 100 per cent Canadian maple salad bowls, hand-made by Stinson Studio in Tamworth Ontario. The bowls are a work of art, in square and oval shapes, some with bark, $260$300 range.
Krups Silver Art Collection Espresso Machine
The Tomato | November December 2011 7
| debby waldman
The truth about latkes A huge selection of fresh cheeses as well as one-of-a-kind gift baskets and cheese trays for the holidays
A few years ago someone sent me an email that summed up Jewish holidays: They tried to kill us, they failed, let’s eat! The first time I read it, I thought it was pretty funny. After the 49th person sent it to me, I found it less witty, though no less accurate. The truth is, when it comes to Jewish holidays, it’s not an exaggeration to say that in most cases, our food is as important as our worship.
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For Hannukah, which we’ll celebrate this year from December 20 to 28, the signature food is potato latkes, also known as potato pancakes. Made from grated potatoes and onions mixed with eggs, a thickening agent, and dash of salt and pepper before being fried in a skillet with vegetable oil, latkes are ideal comfort food for a long winter’s night. You may wonder what potatoes have to do with a holiday that commemorates the Jews’ victory over the Syrian army that destroyed the holy temple in Jerusalem in the second century BCE. The short answer is, nothing. But Hannukah — the name is Hebrew for rededication — is all about victory, survival, and the miracle of oil, and potatoes are the archetypical survival food: they grow underground, in the dark, and when eaten are a miraculous combination of tasty, nutritious, and filling.
The miracle of oil sounds like the story of Alberta, but in the case
8 November December 2011 | The Tomato
10/19/09 9:43:47 AM
of Hannukah, the oil in question is the substance used in the eternal light in the holy temple. The light was supposed to burn continuously (hence its name, the eternal light). But when the temple was destroyed, barely any oil remained. Somehow (this is the miracle), it managed to last the eight days and nights it took to replenish the supply. And that, according to legend, is why, during Hannukah, Jewish people eat things fried in oil. Mostly, we eat latkes, although jelly doughnuts, known as soufganiyot, are popular in Israel and have begun to catch on in North America. A few years ago, I came across a newspaper article promising “new twists on latkes.” It troubled me. There are some things that don’t need a new twist, and latkes are one of them. They do not need to be made with rutabaga, sweet potato, zucchini, quinoa, goji berries or whatever the latest food fad is. Until that article, the only conflict I had about latkes was whether to shred my potatoes with a grater, blender, or food processor. When I was growing up, my mother used a hand grater. After mixing the ingredients, she dropped the lumpy batter by the spoonful into hot vegetable oil. After a minute or two she flipped the latkes, and when they were browned on both sides she drained the excess oil on paper towels. This is a key step: potatoes love oil, and they’ll hold onto it as long as possible. You can drain more oil
by placing them in a single layer on a cookie sheet in a hot (375 to 400ºF) oven for a few minutes. This makes them crispier (and more addictive). For a long time, I preferred my latkes smooth, like ordinary, flourbased pancakes. I grated the onion and potatoes in a food processor, squeezed the excess water from the potatoes, and pulverized everything together with the processor cutting blade. Then I happened to eat latkes made with grated potatoes, and realized I missed the texture of my childhood latkes. Nowadays I grate the potatoes in the food processor, reserve about half to one-third, and pulverize the rest. I empty that batter into a bowl and add the grated potatoes. This, to me, makes an ideal latke.
Here’s how I do it:
debby waldman’s potato latkes
Latkes are best served with applesauce or sour cream, although some heathens have been known to top them with ketchup and maple syrup. You can also eat them plain, with your fingers, straight off the draining towel. But then you might not have any left to serve at the table. Debby Waldman is an Edmonton reviewer and author. Her newest books are Room Enough for Daisy (written with Rita Feutl) and Addy’s Race, both published by Orca.
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When I was a teenager, the cook at the summer camp I attended made potato latkes that were almost like McDonald’s hash browns. Rumor had it he puffed them up with baking powder or baking soda. I never wanted to risk using a rising agent. I prefer my latkes simple and unadulterated.
Drain as much water as you can from the grated potatoes. Depending on your texture preference, pulverize The largest selection of the potatoes and onion in a food Beer in Canada! processor or blender with the egg. (If your food processor is too small, The largest selection of pulverize small amounts and mix Rum in Edmonton! everything together in a large bowl.) The largest selection of Don’t be alarmed if/when the batter Scotch on our block! turns brown. It happens when the potatoes are exposed to the air. Add salt and pepper to taste. Add the flour gradually — you want to be able to pour the batter, not plop it. Ladle by spoonful into a skillet filled with hot 11819 St. Albert Trail, Edmonton oil. Be careful — the potato mixture www.sherbrookeliquor.com will likely splatter. Wear an apron and oven mitts. The latkes will cook quickly, so don’t leave the stove. Flip them once, and when they’re golden Sip 1up. Sherbrooke_12V.indd 10-12-10 brown, drain them on paper towels. Slurp. Kiss the You will likely need a lot of paper noodle. towels.
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The Tomato | November December 2011 9
e Holiday Wines e
From your Rich Uncle and your Cash-Strapped Friend Who best to know the hidden gems and best buys but the people who live and sell wine daily? We asked several agents, importers and merchants to make gift suggestions; one, that you would be thrilled to find under the tree from your rich uncle, and one from your not so financially wellendowed pals. They have selected great buys from the south of France, a tremendous mixed case of Brunello, Cognac, ports and whiskeys. Dive in!
Paulette Scott, Pacific Wine & Spirits, pacificwineandspirits.com Cash-strapped friend
2009 Chapoutier Bila Haut Cotes du Roussillion Villages Roussillon, France, $15
“This blend of Syrah, Grenache and Carignan is supple and lively, with juicy red fruit flavours. If you haven’t tried French wine in a while, you’ll be surprised and impressed.”
Barb and Susan Giacomin, Winequest Wine and Spirit Brokers, winequest.ca Cash-strapped friend 2008 Renwood Sierra Foothills Syrah California, USA, $24 “Que Syrah, Syrah! Will I be juicy? (Yup.) Will I be full? (Oh yeah.) The future’s IS ours to see: time will give the already tasty, sweet blackberry and juicy plum flavours even more richness.”
Rich uncle Col d’Orcia Poggio al Vento Brunello Riserva Case of mixed vintages (1990, 1995, 1997, 1998, 1999, 2001) in magnum Tuscany, Italy, $3,600 “Back vintage release? Only two cases in Canada? Magnums? From a single vineyard considered one of Italy’s best crus? With some of the best vintages ever? Considered one of Italy’s best wines? Oh unkie… that’s amore!”
10 November December 2011 | The Tomato
Taylors Fladgate Scion Tawny Port Portugal, $3,700 “An extremely rare cask-aged, prephylloxera port dating to the mid-19th century uncovered recently in the village of Prezegueda, Corgo Valley. This is a port of extraordinary quality, rarity and historical interest as well as a memorable experience when drinking; reportedly, one of Winston Churchill’s favourite.”
Wade Brintnell, The Wine Cellar, thewinecellar.ab.ca Cash-strapped friend 2006 Coriole Redstone Shiraz Australia, $24 “A forward Shiraz with warm spice and berry flavours. Delightful on its own; will also taste great with your favourite beef dishes.”
Rich uncle 2008 Achaval Ferrer Finca Altamira Argentina, $89 “Single vineyard Malbec made from 80 plus year old vines, growing at 3400 feet above sea level. This is an incredibly dense and rich Malbec, displaying a fine balance of elegance and power.
But patience is the key, as this wine will easily age for 15 years or more. Only 825 cases were produced.”
Juanita Roos, Crestwood Fine Wines & Spirits, crestwoodfinewines.com Cash-strapped friend 2003 Domaine Gauby Les Calcinaires Cotes du Roussillon Villages Roussillon, France, $25 “Elegant and captivating farmstead wine from a biodynamic farmer — a blend of 50 per cent Syrah, with Grenache, Mourvedre and Carignan. This hidden gem has all the wonderful flavours and aromas of aged French wine; well made, terrific value.”
Rich uncle 2007 Hartley Ostini Hitching Post Highliner Pinot Noir Santa Barbara, USA, $69 “Seven years after the release the movie Sideways, Hitching Post is finally available in Alberta. Remember Miles’ moment? Where he met Maya and ordered the Highliner? This wine is not just nostalgic, but rich, earthy and delicious as well.”
Natasha Susylinski, Treasury Wine Estates, treasurywineestates.com Cash-strapped friend 2006 Wynns Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon Australia, $22 “Blackberry, olive and mint on the nose lead into pure Coonawarra — dark berries, eucalyptus and warm vanilla flavours, with fine yet firm tannins and medium acidity. It’s 100 per cent Cabernet Sauvignon, with 16 months in French and American
oak, 43 per cent new oak. Available at most retail stores and fine wine boutiques.”
Rich uncle 2006 Penfolds Grange Barossa Valley, Coonawarra Magill Estate Vineyard Australia, $400-$450 “Penfold’s head winemaker Peter Gago describes Grange as 'an iron fist in a velvet glove — beauty, grace, power and balance.’ The intoxicating aromas of fig and quince, pepper and spice, are followed by flavours of dark berries, cola, dark chocolate, molasses, mint. Mostly Shiraz along with two per cent Cabernet Sauvignon, and aged 18 months in 100 per cent new American oak. Available at fine wine boutiques.”
Christina Masciangelo, Artisan Wines, artisanwines.ca Cash-Strapped friend 2010 Zestos Jeromín Tempranillo/Garnacha Madrid, Spain, $15 “This fresh and fruity, mediumbodied red is produced from older, sustainably-farmed, low-yielding vines. Impress your friends over the season with this versatile, earthfriendly quaffer.”
Rich uncle Francois Voyer XO Gold Cognac France, $195 “Serious, hand-crafted cognac sourced from the top vineyards in Cognac by a family-owned house. Allow this beauty to unfold in the glass for several minutes before sipping, allowing the seductive aromas to transport you to a state of bliss. Arrival late-November in limited quantities; call your favourite wine shop to reserve a bottle.”
Valerie Albrecht, Crush Imports, crushimports.com
Julie Ward, Saverio Schiralli Agencies, schiralliagencies.com
2008 Viñaguareña Barrica Toro, Spain, $20.99
2005 Rivera Cappellaccio Castel del Monte Aglianico DOC Puglia, Italy, $21
“A medium-bodied Tempranillo, with intense flavours of meaty red fruits. This tasty red deserves to be drunk with slow-roasted beef short ribs on a wintry night, while listening to John Mayall and the Bluesbreakers. Available at Crestwood Wine Shop, Glenora Liquor and Lacombe Park Spirits.”
Rich uncle 2006 Cascina Adelaide Preda Barolo DOCG Piedmont, Italy, $86
“Award winning Aglianico (ahl-YAHNeh-koe) from south-eastern Italy — packed with complex aromas, ripe red fruit, spice and tanned leather. Like all Italian reds it is great with food, complementing roast meats and saucy dishes. At fine wine shops.”
Rich uncle 2006, 2007, 2008 Ridge Montebello Cabernet Sauvignon California, USA, $165
“Barolo is said to be the “king of wines and the wine of kings,” and this example from a single vineyard (cru) in Barolo doesn’t disappoint. The vivid plum and cherry aromas coupled with the scent of roses and violets lead to rich vanilla and chocolate flavours surrounded by full, ripe tannins. Available at DeVine, Liquid Harvest, Lacombe Park, Sublime, Unwined, Vines of Riverbend.”
“A revered and thrilling wine lovers dream gift, made from vines planted as early as 1949 high in the Santa Cruz Mountains. Complex aromas and flavours: ripe mountain brambleberry, cassis and dark fruits, chocolate, exotic spice, toasted oak with elegant tannins. It’s often mistaken for first growth Bordeaux. Try to keep it in your cellar for a few years, if you can. It’s unusual to have three vintages of this steller wine in stores at one time. Limited quantities available at fine wine shops.”
Nathalie Mulder, Free House Wine + Spirits, freehousewine.com
Jeff Sparling, Fine Wines by Liquor Select, liquorselect.com
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2008 Château Montfaucon Côtes du Rhône Baron Louis Rhone Valley, France, $24
2005 Château de Chasseloir Muscadet Sèvre-et-Maine Loire Valley, France, $24
278 Cree Road in Sherwood Park • 780.449-.3710 Open Monday to Thursday 10-5 • Friday to Saturday 9-6
“Impress your friends with this delightful little gem — drinks like a Châteauneuf-du-Pape, but at a fraction of the cost. An absolutely beautiful blend of six grapes, combining elegance with complexity and richness.”
“Produced from 100-year-old vines, this wine proudly speaks of its home at the Atlantic end of the Loire Valley — wet stone and minerals, brisk acidity and a salty tang that begs for shellfish. The richness of this sur lie bottling makes it an absolute treat to pair with a spicy seafood cataplana.”
HUNGRY FOR FUN?
Rich uncle Bruichladdich Legacy V Scotland, $399 “If Bob’s your uncle, then Bruichladdich Legacy V will be sitting under your tree. This gorgeous 33-year-old single malt is sure to delight any scotch connoisseur, with its long toffee finish and delicious notes of bourbon, vanilla and oak. Aged in a mixture of sherry and bourbon casks, only 1600 bottles made.”
Rich uncle 1965 Messias Colheita Single Vintage Tawny Port Portugal, $120 “A gorgeous, mouth-filling texture and seemingly endless complexity, with hints of nuts, citrus zest, fresh and dried fruit, spices along with flavours of caramel and honey. The ultimate fireside tipple.”
Please see ”Rich Uncle” on page 29
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The Tomato | November December 2011 11
The art of cof Curtis Comeau
I am a commercial photographer. Trying to keep my work fresh and creative is sometimes not easy. Recently however, I found creative inspiration in the most unlikely of places. Last month while ordering my morning cappuccino to go, I noticed, probably for the first time, the extreme attention to detail that the barista lavished on the heart design in the mocha brown foam. I was intrigued by the focus and time she spent creating this charming image. But the perplexing question was why someone would spend so much time doing this, when itâ€™ll only be covered by a plastic lid? I picked up the cappuccino at the end of the bar and stared at the design for a moment. I thought to myself, I should really take a photo of this. I didnâ€™t and, as the foam head slowly faded into the liquid beneath, I realized that I had wasted a wonderful moment to take a picture of something really special. My new inspiration was born. I was going to capture this beauty on film. I went with camera in hand to some of my favourite coffee hangouts to capture these images. All were shot with natural light using one camera and one 50mm lens. I chose this aesthetic for one reason â€” I wanted this series to have a pure organic feel, to be as close to reality as possible. My commercial shooting style involves using several lights, light altering tools and various lenses to create an artificial view of reality. Commercial shooting by nature is geared towards creating the perfect photograph to make things look better than they really are. These photos capture realtity as closely as possible. I hope you enjoy this collection of images and find the beauty in them as I did. I also hope that you take the time to visit and experience the ambiance, and the coffee, firsthand.
12 November December 2011 | The Tomato
Old world ambiance at the Italian Centre.
Credo is a modern café located in the heart of downtown. It hosts a mix of Edmonton’s business and artistic crowd looking to enjoy excellent coffee in a relaxed atmosphere. Credo is perfect for afternoon meetings. credocoffee.ca The café at the Italian Center Shop in little Italy (and 104 A street on the south side) is a traditional Italian café, and a perfect spot for the family on Sunday afternoons. It’s actually called Spinelli’s Bar Italia, but everybody just says Italian Centre. Enjoy espresso macchiato, fresh baked pastry and savouries, gelato, and panini. italiancentre.ca Remedy is a non-traditional café that caters to a bohemian culture. It offers a variety of Indian food, exotic teas, and various coffees. The chai latte is their flagship drink. The images were taken at the 109 Street location; they are opening on Jasper Avenue soon. remedycafe.ca.
Credo’s decidedly urban vibe.
Creating a perfect cup at Remedy.
Transcend boasts a staff with unprecedented knowledge of coffee. From bean to processing to proper cup. Transcend has become my go-to place for takeaway morning cappuccino at one of its three locations. transcendcoffee.com. curtiscomeau.com
Essential tool of the trade at Transcend. The Tomato | November December 2011 13
A holiday menu by Daniel Costa, corso 32. “Italians take pasta seriously, it’s not an afterthought. We make almost all our own pasta at the restaurant; the pappardelle is always made here. It’s easy to make home made pasta once you learn the technique. It’s versatile and perfect for the holidays — for a big Christmas lunch or a late night New Year’s Eve snack.” — Daniel Costa
Ben Chalmers (left) and Daniel Costa of corso 32.
14 November December 2011 | The Tomato
to make the braciole
Ricotta gnocchi are light and simple to make. Toss the cooked gnocchi with a simple tomato sauce, browned butter and sage, or fry in a little olive oil until crispy. 1 tub fresh ricotta, use sheep milk ricotta if possible (about 450 grams) 1 egg ¾ c
½ c pecorino romano cheese, finely grated 1 t
Place the ricotta in a fine strainer over a bowl, and allow to strain overnight. In a large bowl, mix the ricotta, egg, cheese, nutmeg and salt until well combined. Add the flour and mix to combine. Place the dough on a floured work surface and knead for about 45 seconds to combine. Cover dough and allow to rest for 30 minutes. Divide the dough into four. Roll each piece into 2 cm cylinders on a floured surface. Cut each cylinder into 2 cm pieces. Using your thumb or two fingers roll each piece of dough off the inside of a fork or a gnocchi board. Set aside on a floured surface and cover so they won’t dry out. Bring a large pot of water to a boil with a handful of salt. Gently add gnocchi to the boiling water. When the gnocchi float, allow to cook for an additional minute. Take off heat, drain and toss gnocchi in your preferred sauce. Serves 4.
Christmas Day ziti with sugo alla napoletana This is a southern Italian classic, especially on Sundays when you have to feed a ton of people. Both dishes are prepared in one pot and served across two courses, the pasta first with the sugo, and the meat second. 1 lb
garlic, thinly sliced
6 c canned San Marzano tomatoes, passed through a food mill 3 links Italian pork or lamb sausage 4 legs
6 pieces beef or veal, pounded to ¼ inch thickness Pecorino romano, grated
Italian parsley, roughly chopped
fresh bread crumbs
pepperoncini or hot chilies
extra virgin olive oil
Spread the cuts of beef on a work surface, season with a little salt. Sprinkle pecorino, bread crumbs, parsley and the peppers over each piece. Roll into cylinders and tie with butcher’s twine. Reserve.
to make the sauce Heat the olive oil in a deep pot on high heat. Sear the sausage, chicken legs and braciole on all sides in batches and set aside. Drain some of the oil from the pot, add the onions and cook until translucent. Add the garlic and continue cooking another 2 minutes. Add the tomato and gently place the meat back in the pot. Simmer on low for 2 1/2 hours, stirring occasionally. Add a little water while the sauce is cooking if it becomes too dry.
Add a generous handful of kosher salt (4 T) to 12 cups of water in a large pot and bring to a boil. Add pasta. Cook until al dente. Save 1 cup of the pasta cooking water. While the water is boiling, gently remove all the meat from the sauce. Cover and set aside as the second course to follow the pasta. Toss the pasta with enough sauce to coat all of the ziti. Serve immediately with a little pecorino and a good drizzle of extra virgin olive oil on top.
A Quick Holiday Dinner bucatini all’amatriciana This is one of my favourite dishes. For this recipe, try your best to find guanciale. The fat has a delicate flavour that is difficult to substitute. This will be easy, as the Italian Centre Shop has recently started carrying guanciale (frozen). You could also cure your own, as we do at Corso 32, but you will be waiting a few weeks. bucatini
1 piece guanciale (about 350 grams) 4 cloves
Heat a little olive oil in a large pan. Add the sliced guanciale and fry until golden. Add the sliced garlic and cook until it just starts to turn golden. Add the pepperoncini, followed by the tomatoes. Simmer the sauce for 10 minutes stirring frequently.
pasta Add a generous handful of kosher salt (4 T) to 12 cups of water in a large pot and bring to a boil. Cook the pasta until al dente. Save 1 cup of the pasta cooking water. Drain the pasta; add to the simmering sauce. Stir the bucatini into the sauce and add the pecorino and parsley. Add a little pasta water if needed. Serve pasta immediately. Top with a little more pecorino and pepperoncini. Serves 4
garlic, finely sliced
2 c canned San Marzano tomatoes, passed through a food mill 1 t
Pecorino romano, grated
Italian parsley, leaves picked
extra virgin olive oil
Late night New Year’s Eve spaghetti caccio e peppe The best quick pastas come from in and around Rome. These include aglio eolio, carbonara, and all’Amatriciana. Caccio e peppe (cheese and pepper) is served with many different shapes of pasta but I really enjoy it with spaghetti. With this dish, remember that its simplicity is bold and flavourful. 1 pkg
whole black peppercorns
pecorino romano, grated
extra virgin olive oil
Add a generous handful of kosher salt (4 T) to 12 cups of water in a large pot and bring to a boil. Place the peppercorns in a mortar and crush to a course texture. Begin cooking the spaghetti. Meanwhile, heat the olive oil in a large pan over medium-high heat. Add the crushed peppercorns and lightly toast for 30 seconds. Add a small ladle of the pasta cooking water to the pan and remove from the heat. Save 1 cup of the pasta cooking water. When the pasta is al dente drain and add to the pan of pepper and oil. Add the butter, cheese, and a few splashes of pasta cooking water. Toss or stir with a wooden spoon until completely mixed and creamy. Serve immediately. Continued next page
The Tomato | November December 2011 15
A holiday menu by Daniel Costa, corso 32. New Years Day (Or dinner with the in-laws) rotolo with ricotta and swiss chard Rotolo is a rolled stuffed pasta poached in boiling water, then cut into pieces to serve. We make this recipe at Corso 32, however we fry the rotolo in butter and top with a raw egg yolk. You can do the same if you are up for the challenge. This recipe takes time but the results are amazing. Remember to work quickly once the pasta is rolled, as you do not want it to dry and crack. 200 grams fresh pasta 1 tub (about 500 grams) fresh ricotta ½ head (about 5-6 large leaves) Swiss chard, washed and roughly chopped, stems and leaves separated ½
yellow onion, diced
garlic, finely sliced
pecorino romano, grated
egg, beaten for egg wash
unsalted butter sage
filling Heat butter over medium heat. Saute onions on medium-high heat until translucent. Add garlic, and cook for an additional 2 minutes. Season. Add chopped swiss chard stems and cook for about 5 minutes. Add leaves and cook for another 10 minutes, or until tender. Season. Set the pan aside to cool. Place the ricotta, nutmeg, pecorino and cooked Swiss chard in a large mixing bowl. Mix together with your hands. Season, and add more pecorino if needed.
assembling the pasta Roll the pasta dough into a 16 x 20 inch rectangle and to the thickness of thin cardboard. Place a large tea towel on a work surface, put the pasta sheet in the middle of the tea towel. Spread the ricotta filling evenly on the pasta sheet, leaving a ½ inch border. Brush a little beaten egg on the top border of the pasta sheet.
16 November December 2011 | The Tomato
Using the tea towel as a support, roll the rectangle up like a jelly roll. Wrap the rotolo tightly in the tea towel. Using butcher’s twine, tie knots on both ends and wrap at three intervals evenly down the middle. Bring a fish kettle or large pot of salted water to a boil. Gently place the wrapped and tied rotolo in the boiling water and simmer for 10-15 minutes. Carefully remove and allow to rest. While the rotolo is resting, heat the remaining butter in a sauté pan over high heat. When the butter begins to bubble, add the sage leaves and continue cooking until the butter begins to brown. Add a splash of water to stop the cooking process and remove from heat. Cut the twine, unwrap the rotolo and cut into even pieces. Spoon a little sage butter and grate Parmigiano over. Serves 4-6.
authentic - inspired - delicious Glossary Al dente: The perfect pasta, cooked but still firm to the bite. Interestingly, pasta cooked al dente has a lower glycemic index than pasta that is cooked soft, probably due to less complete conversion of starch to sugar. Braciole: Thin cuts of meat rolled with cheese and bread crumbs. This preparation style is also called involtini, and rouladen in other parts of Europe. Guanciale (gwahnCHIAleh): A bacon made from pork jowl that is cured with salt, and red and black pepper, but not smoked. Guanciale has a stronger flavour, yet more delicate texture than other Italian unsmoked bacons, but pancetta can be used in a pinch. It is a specialty of central Italy, particularly Umbria and Lazio.
fine artisanal and farmstead cheeses gourmet and specialty foods gift boxes and cheese platters
45th avenue & riverbend road www.everythingcheese.ca 780-757-8532
AWARD WINNING CONDIMENTS & APPETIZERS
Seasoning for the Season!
Pepperoncini: are slightly hot, mildly bitter peppers, sold pickled in jars.
Ph/Fax: 780-487-9334 Email:email@example.com
www.zinterbrown.com Available at you r local
throughout Wes tern Canada
Italian Centre Downtown 10878 - 95 St. / South 5028 -104A St. â€˘ Sunterra Market Lendrum 5728 - 111 St.
The Tomato | November December 2011 17
santa baby continued from page 7
Good enough to eat Casanova DOP Balsamico Now that the restaurant trend of dunking bread into an indifferent oil and vinegar seems to be ending, lets get back to the real thing. What is balsamic vinegar? At the low end of the quality spectrum, wine vinegar is cooked with colour, citric acid, preservatives and flavourings in a fast commercial process. At the other, grape must is slow-aged under the eaves in the town of Modena and, if they are very special, get to use the DOP certification. DOP Balsamico, packaged in a fantastic curvy bottle and priced the earth, are meant as an elixir to anoint a piece of Parmigiano while you enjoy a wine of contemplation, or drizzled over steak to bring out the charroasted flavours of good Alberta beef. What a thoughtful gift.
Segreto DOP Extra Virgin Olive Oil So many Italian olive oils, so little information on the bottle. New this year: extra virgin olive oils that claim to be Italian must prove it. Then, the producer is allowed to say 100 per cent Italian. It’s not simply empty rhetoric, supply levels are strictly monitored by bureaucracy in Rome. Ok, now that you know to look for those words, what else should you look for? The words and symbol DOP. This is your guarantee that the oil comes from a specific place with certified growing standards, flavour profiles and rules of production. Segreto Extra Virgin Olive Oil, from Mount Iblei DOP in Sicily is one such oil, with a beautiful texture and fragrance. Use it for drizzling on salads and on pasta. Oils you use for cooking don’t have to possess the same characterful flavours. Look for brands from Italy, or oil from countries such as Portugal, Turkey, Spain and Greece.
18 November December 2011 | The Tomato
Pannetonne Pannetonne is the Italian equivalent of the Canadian fruit cake. No one admits to eating it, but they are as ubiquitous as Santas at shopping malls. Actually, we like the fruitstudded version and enjoy it toasted for breakfast on Boxing Day. We also like the individual sized boxes of pannetonne, with chocolate, for party favours.
Thirsting for cu
Beavertail Breakfast Set
First, a bit of culinary lore: The beavertail is a deep fried pastry made in the shape of a beavertail, served piping hot at cook shacks clustered alongside the Rideau Canal during the Ottawa winter carnival. Now the pastry is synonymous with a chain of the same name with locations in Canada, the US and Saudi Arabia.
Edmonton food personality Gail Hall leads culinary tours with Toronto-based travel company Worldwide Quest. Gail has been the congenial host and familiar face on tours to Chile, Argentina, Italy, France, and the Okanagan. The 2012 tours promise to be a fascinating window into the food culture of South-east Asia: Vietnam March 9-21, and Cambodia March 21-24. For more information including itineraries, visit worldwidequest.com or seasonedsolutions.ca. Gail also plans a shop/spa/wine tour in Sonoma, including dinner at John Ash’s restaurant in Santa Rosa, over the Family Day weekend, February 17-21.
The Beavertail breakfast set by DoveTale evokes the spirit of the original beavertail in a toothsome kit containing organic pancake mix, Quebec maple syrup and strawberry spread, $33. You could deepfry them, of course, but most people will be happy to make pancakes in the traditional beavertail shape and enjoy with a mug of Bailey’s-laced coffee Christmas morning.
Gourmet Experience When food and wine impresario Peter Blattmann created the International Festival of Wine and Food at the Banff Springs Hotel in 1991, he lured some of the world’s top wine producers to an event on a weekend during the shoulder season when they couldn’t even ski. Since then, the improbable has become the must-do on the agenda of wine lovers across North America. In 2001 Peter left his position as the Spring’s food and beverage director to develop a business specializing in exclusive, upscale tours of top wine regions for
CONNOISSEUR’S CHOICE MADE FROM FULL, RICH AND FRUITY PORTS FROM THE FINEST VINEYARDS OF
Beer Cap Catcher
THE DOURO VALLEY, BIN N O
What every guy needs: a beer cap catcher! New drinking games will be invented. $13 at Call the Kettle Black.
27 IS A DISTINGUISHED RESERVE BLEND, MATURED IN OAK FOR IMMEDIATE ENJOYMENT.
The Better Batter Tool Baker will want the Better Batter Tool. A heat resistant (to 600ºF) beater and spoon combination with thick blades that mix ingredients faster to avoid over-mixing. $19 at Call the Kettle Black.
Fontana Water Carafe Thierry Meret and Marnie Fudge of Cuisine et Chateau
The stylishly simple Fontana carafe is by Blomus. Glass, holds one litre, $39, at Zocalo. Everyone needs one.
ulinary experiences? small groups. His latest, the Culinary & Wine Tour of Alsace, Germany-Austria, October 7-20, promises his usual attention to detail and high level of care. Visit gourmet-experience.com for itinerary.
Cuisine et Chateau: A French Culinary Journey in Perigord
All food lovers eventually end up in the Dordogne, the heart of French cookery, for a glimpse into a rural culture seemingly untouched by modern life. Perigord is known for its cheeses, foie gras, duck confit, escargot. Snail and duck farms, walnut groves, cattle and goats (14 million litres of goat milk for Cabecou alone) surround quaint medieval towns. Marnie Fudge and Thierry Meret spent six weeks last summer in the region polishing their new venture Cuisine et Chateau. Both are experienced chefs as well as SAIT culinary instructors: Thierry Meret had a wonderful restaurant, La P’tite Table, in Okotoks; Marnie started the Basil Ranch, then developed Pallette Fine Foods, a delicious line of gourmet food products. Along with intensive cooking lessons, the groups will visit farms and markets. All together, this is an ideal week for those who love to be in the kitchen and connect with a profound food culture. cuisineandchateau.com
Martine De Graaf photo
Cue accordian music: This trip is a dream — an opportunity to stay in a lovely chateau, complete with swimming pool, cook all morning and, in the afternoon, wander about by bicycle in an impeccable French landscape.
Mad Dadder Cake Pans Oh, go bake a cake. Alice in Wonderland would have loved this set of topsy-turvy slanted cake pans. Called Mad Dadder, set of 3, $83, at Dansk.
Aerate your single malt Vinturi's newest aerator heightens key elements of good whiskey or any aromatic spirit, enhancing the overall drinking experience. Vinturi Spirit, at Dansk, $50.
The Tomato | November December 2011 19
Join us for tastings and entertaining ideas at our 3rd Annual Open House
Christmas in Our Kitchen 10am - 4pm Saturday November 26 70, 20 Circle Drive, St Albert
Locally made specialty food items • Many gluten free products available Custom gift baskets • 780-418-2878 • www.bluekettle.ca
| peter bailey
The Golden Age of Beer It’s the end of the world as we know it. And I feel fine — for this is the golden age of craft beer. As the American Empire crumbles, America has become the capital of craft beer. The modern version of fiddling while Rome burns is drinking awesome IPAs while America declines. Soon, craft beer may be the only thing made in U.S.A. not China. Certainly, the American craft beer industry is full of the creativity, innovation and entrepreneurial wizardry that put the U.S. on top. Maybe President Obama should ask brewmasters like Sam Calagione for some advice on the economy. On second thought, “more hops” may not be helpful advice for failing banks. These are great times for craft beer. Happily the term “microbrew” has been discontinued for the most part as there isn’t much “micro” about the craft beer industry today. Back in 1980, there were only 44 breweries in all of the United States — today, there are over 1,700. Each year, craft beer nibbles away at the market share of the giant multinational brewers, with craft beer the only growing part of a flat beer market. But is this growth an unsustainable beer bubble headed for a dot.com-style bust? I don’t know, but my advice is to drink up. Carpe beer! Indeed, we may have reached peak beer for beer choice in Edmonton. Some U.S. craft brewers such as Dogfish Head simply cannot keep up with demand and have pulled out of markets like Canada. Other brewers find the costs of supplying far-flung markets like Alberta prohibitive. And yet, the Sherbrooke Liquor sign keeps ticking up, with over 900 brands of beer for sale last time I checked. Perhaps peak beer is like peak oil, receding into the future as new supplies are found.
20 November December 2011 | The Tomato
Those supplies can come from our healthy Canadian craft breweries, most of which were inspired by the craft beer revolution down south. In 2011, Calgary’s Wild Rose Brewery and Kelowna’s Tree Brewing celebrated their 15th anniversaries. Victoria’s Driftwood Brewing only began brewing in 2009, but their Fat Tug IPA won Beer of the Year at the 2011 Canadian Brewing Awards. Locally, Neil Herbst of Edmonton’s Alley Kat Brewing noted his own debt to the pioneers of craft beer, describing a beer epiphany years ago on a hot summer day at a Montana pub. He tried an Apricot Ale from Pyramid Breweries and thought “Wow, we've got to try this.” Months later Alley Kat brought out their Aprikat Wheat Ale and it has sold solidly ever since. An Alberta sign of craft beer’s success was the 2011 launch of Calgary’s Craft Beer Market, a big, airy temple of beer, with a central altar — a large oval bar surrounding over 100 beer taps. Operating partner Rob Swiderski told me that Craft’s success has exceeded all their projections and they are already scouting locations for a branch in Edmonton. While some of those 100 beers are Budweiser and other macro beers, Swiderski explained that he wants everyone to feel comfortable at Craft, both the Bud drinkers and the beer geeks. In the interest of good beer, I suppose we must all try to get along. Back in Edmonton, the Pourhouse Bier Bistro on Whyte Avenue is working a Craft-style vision on a smaller scale. Pourhouse has an up-scale feel, with a focus on more ambitious food than usual pub fare and some interesting beers in the bottle. But Pourhouse has mostly macros on tap, as if they lost their nerve. Don’t fear the beer! Vive la revolution! The golden age of craft beer is here.
Perfectly placed in the South Okanagan
Golden Age Six-Pack Six good beers from around the world that show the influence of the American craft beer revolution, including several robust beers suitable for the holiday season. All available at better beer stores like Sherbrooke Liquor and Keg ’n Cork. Happy holidays!
Alley Kat: Fresh Hop Full Moon Pale Ale, Edmonton Full Moon Pale Ale yet again? Yes, because this version is a delightful tweak on the regular (excellent) Full Moon. One of the beauties of a smaller brewery is flexibility. When freshly picked hops showed up at Alley Kat’s back door instead of the usual dried hop pellets, Alley Kat rolled with it and a hoppier, earthier tasting Full Moon was born.
St. Austell: Proper Job IPA, England A favourite stop during a trip to England in the ‘90s was the independent St. Austell Brewery in Cornwall. It’s a delight to see their beers in Alberta. This is a mid-Atlantic IPA, combining English malts and American hops for a 100 per cent delicious hybrid IPA.
Birrificio del Ducato: BIA IPA, Italy I love the multicultural backstory of this Italian craft beer. It is an India Pale Ale, a style originally brewed in England for export to India, re-invented a hundred years later by American craft brewers who, in turn, inspired new Italian craft brewers, who exported this delicious part English-part American style IPA to Canada where it may very well be enjoyed by Italian-Canadians.
erfectly placed on rich South Okanagan farmland, Tinhorn Creek overlooks the old gold mining creek that is the winery’s namesake. We are environmental stewards of 150 acres of vineyards: “Diamondback” on the Black Sage Bench, and “Tinhorn Creek” on the Golden Mile Bench. Both provide us with the fruit to craft the superb, terroir driven wine that we’re known for. Our top tier Oldfield Series represents the finest of each vintage.
BrewDog: Alice Porter, Scotland BrewDog has embraced the craft beer revolution with both arms, claiming their beers as “uncompromising, bold and irreverent — the epitome of pure punk.” Baltic Porter is an old style, brewed stronger for export from England. Here BrewDog adds their punk spin, using Sorachi Ace hops, loads of dark malts plus vanilla pods to produce a chewy, maltier porter. Perfect for winter.
Garrison: Martello Stout, Halifax One can’t face the Edmonton winter alone — a solid, dark stout will keep you company by the fireplace as you browse the new Oxford Companion to Beer you got for Christmas. This black beer is reminiscent of chocolate and roasty malt with a touch of smoke and coffee. A perfect companion for holiday foods like cheese, roasts and chocolate desserts.
Schloss Eggenberg: Samichlaus, Austria A real Christmas beer, Samichlaus means Santa Claus in the SwissGerman dialect. Brewed once a year on December 6, it is matured for 10 months before bottling. The strongest lager in the world at 14 per cent alcohol, beer writer Michael Jackson suggested it be served as a restorative from a wooden cask suspended from the neck of a mountain rescue dog. A beer suitable for an Alberta winter then!
haute comfort food three course early dining: monday to saturday 5:00 p.m. to 6:30 p.m. $50/person monday to friday 11:30 am to 2:00 pm.
lunch: dinner: monday to saturday from 5:00 pm.
located at the corner of 97 street and jasper avenue reservations 780-423-0969 www.hardwaregrill.com wine spectator magazine award of excellence 1997-2003 / best of award of excellence 2004-2011
Peter Bailey is an area librarian who prefers beer with his books, whether digital or print.
The Tomato | November December 2011 21
Gifts m K e o t A Sweet
stylish goodies from your kitchen to give or to get mary bailey
madame benoit’s maple walnut fudge If anyone should know how to make a good Quebec fudge, it’s Madame Benoit. As a Cordon Bleu graduate, cooking school and restaurant proprietor, and TV star, she championed Canadian cooking with Canadian ingredients. 1 c
amber maple syrup
packed brown sugar
1 c (or to taste) fresh walnut pieces Blend maple syrup, sugars and cream in a large, high-sided pot on medium heat. When fully mixed, add salt and baking powder. Stir constantly while the baking power dissolves, turns the mixture a pale honey colour and starts
22 November December 2011 | The Tomato
to foam. Hook a candy thermometer on the side of the pot or hold in one hand. Stir constantly to keep the mixture from foaming over. The colour will deepen as the mixture becomes more syrupy. Stir until the mixture reaches 240°F on the candy thermometer, about 15 minutes. Turn off the burner and let the mixture cool slightly, about 5 minutes. Add vanilla and butter, and stir until mixed. Add nuts, if using; stir to mix. Pour the fudge mixture into an 8x8 cake pan, lined with parchment. Cool, then cut into squares and wrap in cello or waxed paper. The fudge keeps at room temperature for up to two weeks, for best flavour and texture, and can be frozen if necessary.
east indian brittle Honeyed almonds, cashews, and pistachios redolent of cardamom create an east-meets-west variation on the nut brittle theme. 8
green cardamom pods
canola oil for parchment
2 c sugar ¼ c mild honey ¼ c light corn syrup ¼ c water ¾ t salt 1 c coarsely chopped raw cashews ½ c coarsely chopped, un-dyed pistachios, shelled ½ c skin-on sliced almonds Preheat oven to 300°F. Oil two sheets of parchment paper. Place one sheet, oiled side up, on a heatproof work surface. Reserve the other. Crush cardamom pods with the side of a large heavy knife or mallet and scrape out seeds. Discard pods. Coarsely crush seeds with a mortar and pestle or the side of a heavy knife. Bring sugar, honey, corn syrup, water, crushed cardamom seeds and salt to a boil in a 4- to 5-quart heavy pot over moderately high heat, stirring occasionally. Let boil, stirring occasionally, until mixture registers 350°F on thermometer, about 10 minutes. Add nuts and cook, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon, until mixture returns to a boil, about 1 minute. Carefully pour hot caramel mixture onto oiled parchment on work surface and cover with remaining sheet of parchment, oiled side down. Using a large wooden rolling pin, quickly roll out mixture between sheets to ¼ inch thick. If brittle hardens before it is thin enough, transfer to a large baking sheet (still between parchment sheets) and warm in the oven about 5 minutes to soften, then continue rolling to ¼ inch thick. Cool brittle until firm enough to hold its shape but still pliable, 2 to 5 minutes. Remove top sheet of parchment. Score surface of brittle into 1½-inch squares. Warm to soften, if necessary. Cool brittle completely, about 30 minutes. Peel off the bottom
sheet of parchment, and break brittle into pieces. Place pieces in decorative bags or tins for giving. Brittle keeps in an airtight container for about a month.
salted caramels Old-school caramels get a modern makeover. 1 c
5 T unsalted butter, cut into pieces 1 t fleur de sel plus more for dusting 1½ c
light corn syrup
Line bottom and sides of an 8-inch square baking pan with parchment paper, then lightly oil parchment. Bring cream, butter and salt to a boil in a small saucepan, then remove from heat and set aside. Boil sugar, corn syrup and water in a large, heavy saucepan, stirring until sugar is dissolved. Boil while gently swirling pan until mixture is a light golden colour. Place candy thermometer into the large pot. Carefully stir in cream mixture. It will bubble up. Cook, stirring frequently, until caramel registers 248°F, about 10 to 15 minutes. Pour into the prepared baking pan and cool 2 hours. Before the caramel is completely cooled, sprinkle a sparse amount of fleur de sel on the top of the caramels. Cut into 1-inch pieces and package attractively. Makes 64 caramels.
Beautiful Parties c aT e r e D h e r e .
The BuTler DiD iT 780.455.5228 | firstname.lastname@example.org
Please see “Gifts” on page 26
The Tomato | November December 2011 23
| what’s new and notable
restaurant ramblings Congrats corso 32! Isn’t it fabulous to see Edmonton’s gorgeous rockin’ space with its delicious food chosen as one of EnRoute Magazine’s Canada’s Best New Restaurants 2011? Yes, it’s fabulous! The EnRoute list is as definitive as it gets. What are they looking for? “We look for chefs who are advancing the country’s culinary identity and restaurants where the overall dining experience will have a significant impact on our restaurant culture.” Read the rest of the story, a lovely piece of food writing, including the line we wish we had written; “That kind of determination comes in useful when launching a spunky startup in the slowly rejuvenating downtown core, which after dark looks not unlike Night of the Living Dead.” Find it at enroute.com. It’s Christmas party season! The Union Bank Inn has several options: Book in Madison’s Grill or the private Vintage Room for up to 14 people. Larger rooms are available for up to 130 guests. Call 780-401-2222 or the catering department, 780-401-2209 to book. Enjoy a five-course menu for Christmas Day Dinner in Madison’s, $80 per person, seatings from 4:30pm New Year’s Eve is a six-course gourmet extravaganza, $190 per couple, seatings from 5pm. Pair with an overnight stay. New Year’s Day Champagne Brunch features a sumptuous a la carte menu from 11am, $39.95 per person. All events require advance booking. Visit unionbankinn.com or call 780-423-3600 for details and reservations. Check out Cibo (11244 104 Avenue, 780-757-2426) a 50 seat bistro featuring modern Italian food, in the Tesoro Caffe space in Oliver Square. Owners Rosie Caputo and Mike Giampa are making their first foray into a place of their own, along with sous chef Mathew Helstein. Open for lunch and dinner. Closed Sunday, Monday. We all love to go for lattes after yoga. This must be the origin of the newest trend on the restaurant scene — café with yoga studio. The lovely Noorish (8440 109 Street, 780-756-6880) was the first. Opening soon is the Tiramisu Café (10750 124 Street) also with on-site yoga room. Noorish, a “conscious eatery and superfood elixir bar” plans a full meditation and yoga program, and cooking with raw foods certification.
24 November December 2011 | The Tomato
Earl’s Kichen & Bar has joined the Ocean Wise Certified Fish program and will offer sustainable Albacore tuna in Hawaiianstyle Tuna Poke Nachos, and Lois Lake steelhead salmon in the Maple Glazed Salmon Salad with roasted butternut squash, faro, and Quebec goat cheese. New on the Sips list is the Skinny Martini, made with raspberry vodka, freshsqueezed lemon juice, white cranberry and house-made sugar-free vanilla syrup, ringing in at a measly 150 calories. Moriarty’s has a new menu created by chef Cory Welsch and manager Stacy Dieckman and wine list by in-house certified sommelier Shelley Sillito. Bring your Citadel Theatre ticket in after the performance for a manager’s pour, part of Moriarty’s commitment to the downtown entertainment community. “We have a DJ spinner in Friday from 8pm to 11pm, providing a great vibe in the room. It has a really good energy on a bustling Friday or Saturday,” says Stacy. Plans for New Year’s Eve include two dinner seatings. Call 780-757-2005 for reservations.
wine tasting happenings and events Don’t miss the Hollick Coonawarra wine maker’s dinner at Café de Ville (10137 124 Street, 780-488-9188), Sunday, November 6 with founder Ian Hollick. Four superb wines: 2009 Bond Road Chardonnay, 2008 Pinot Noir, 2008 Cab/Merlot and 2008 Wrattonbury Shiraz, are paired with a four course menu by exec chef Tracy Zizek. The evening starts at 6pm. $125/person, including GST and tax. For reservations, call 780-488-9188. Andrew Hogan from the Isle of Arran Distillery is in town November 3 for dinner at The Bothy (5482 Calgary Trail, 780-7611761). Four courses paired with superb single malts, 6:30 pm, $125 inclusive. Here’s the menu: smoked wild sockeye salmon with whisky maple gastrique, paired with Arran Amontillado Cask, roast prime rib, mashed potatoes, root veg and Yorkshire pudding with Arran 14 Year. Dessert is a vanilla bean crème brûlée with berries with Arran Amarone Cask, finishing with a cheese platter featuring Sylvan Star Aged Gouda paired with the Arran Bourbon Cask.
November tastings at Sublime Wines (104 160 Broadway Blvd, Sherwood Park, 780-467-9463): Hollick Wines, Coonawarra, with Ian Hollick, November 5, $25; Kenneth Volk, California, with Kenneth Volk, November 9, $25; Crush Imports portfolio tasting with Valerie Albrecht, November 17, $25; Camus Cognac, November 24, $30. Tastings start at 7pm, email email@example.com to book. Spilling the Beans Dinner, Monday, November 21, 5:30pm. Ernest’s at NAIT, Edmonton, $60 (includes book). Join Julie Van Rosendaal and Sue Duncan for dinner featuring dishes from their new cookbook Spilling the Beans: Cooking and Baking with Beans and Grains Everyday. Julie and Sue demonstrate how to use more pulses. To register, visit pulse.ab.ca, deadline is November 14. Sponsored by the Canadian Association of Foodservice Professionals, Dietitians of Canada and the Alberta Pulse Growers. Winequest’s Barb and Susan Giacomin create a super Italian wine tasting every year called Italia with Gusto. It’s a fabulous event with over 60 wines, great nibbles and a chance to purchase wines at a discount. Here’s the best part: all proceeds go to the E4C Schoool Lunch Program. Saturday, November 26, 7pm-10pm, Italian Cultural Centre (14230 133 Avenue, 780 453-6182). Tickets are $65 available at Vinomania, 780-488-7973, and the Italian Cultural Centre. Sign up for Wine 101 Wednesday, a series of six afternoon tastings by women for women. At unwined, 512 St Albert Trail, 1pm-3pm, $60, 780-458-4777, unwined.biz The festive Christmas in November at Fairmont’s Jasper Park Lodge begins November 4 with three packages; November 4-6, 7-10 (midweek) and November 11-14. Taste the wines of Cedar Creek along with some of our best cheeses presented by the Dairy Board of Canada. Chefs Brett Yasukawa, Anna and Michael Olson, Michael Smith and Julie van Rosendaal are featured presenters, along with JPL’s exec chef Derek Ingraham and interior design expert Karl Lohnes. Morning yoga by Moksha Yoga. Visit christmasinnovember.com for bookings.
November 16 is the Veuve Clicquot Winemakers Dinner at Century Grill (3975 Calgary Trail 780-4310303) with Pierre Casaneve, head winemaker, Veuve Clicquot. Chef Tony Le has created a menu to showcase the stellar Champagnes of Veuve Clicquot. For resos contact lsievewright@centuryhospitality. com. $150 per person inclusive. Bin 104 Fine Wine and Spirits (5454 Calgary Trail, 780-436-8850) Wine tasting evenings begin at 7pm and are priced per person. Canadian Content, November 2, $40; Douro Magic, November 23, $50; A Pinot Christmas, December 7, $50. For more information, visit bin104.com. Meet Brunello di Montalcino producer, Mario Bollagat, at the Terralsole Tuscan Dream in Montalcino Tasting, November 2, 7pm-8:30pm, $25/person. At Crestwood Wines (9658 142 Street, 780-488-7800). Call to book.
product news Expect to see some new looks and flavours at Bernard Callebaut. Maître chocolatier Derrick Tu Tan Pho joined the chocolatier in the fall. No slouch when it comes to chocolate, Derrick is Saigon born, Montreal raised, studied with Gaston Lenotre in Paris, taught pastry at George Brown College, and was with Barry Callebaut AG, the world's largest chocolate manufacturer for several years, picking up numerous awards along the way. We’re looking forward to tasting some of the new arrivals soon. Paddy’s Cheese (12509 102 Avenue, 780-413-0367) has plenty of delicious cheeses — such as unique burrata — crackers, vinegars and other specialty foods, all in time for the holidays. Recommended: Gluten-free Polenta Crisps ($7.49) in red pepper, parmesan and rosemary flavours; Clovis vinegars ($11.49) come in five flavours including herbs de provence, and the South African Rozendal
Hibiscus Vinegar ($36.99), winner of the prestigious Sofi Gold Award. Paddy’s makes spectacular custom gift baskets. Prices start at $50, and the deadline for ordering up to four baskets is December 15. Want several for your entire list? Call them now to avoid disappointment. Campbell Liquor (3 Curial Drive, St. Albert, 780-419-3444) celebrates 15 years in business with a special anniversary event on November 19. Expect in-store specials from 1pm-5pm; samples, door prizes and giveaways. Blue Kettle Specialty Foods (70, 20 Circle Drive, St. Albert, 780-418-2878) holds their annual Christmas in our Kitchen Open House on Saturday, November 26. Visit bluekettle.ca for more information about their gift baskets and gluten free products. Looking for an elegant way to unscrew the screw cap? Yes, many good wines now come with the handy dandy Stelvin closure, otherwise known as a screw cap. Danish company Nuance has produced a good-looking piece of stainless to remove the cap stylishly. Nuance Wine Screw Opener, at Dansk, $22
Perfect wines for every occasion. 9658 - 142 Street | 780-488-7800 | crestwoodfinewines.com
All about home ... Gourmet kitchen, tabletop and fine linens. •
Crestwood Centre | 9646 142 Street | 780.437.4190 | www.bellacasaDCL.com
Don’t miss All is Bright, the special holiday celebration in the High Street (125 Street and 102 Avenue) November 17-20 with festive tree lighting, store specials and a $1000 raffle.
cooking classes and culinary travel Look forward to a dynamic culinary experience Tuesday, November 29 at Commerce Place Sunterra Market (Commerce Place, 10150 Jasper Avenue). The Art of Entertaining teaches how to make delectable hors d’oeuvres. Class starts at 6:30pm, $49.95/person plus gst. Call 780-426-3791 to book. Please see “Kitchen Sink” on page 27
A PA N - A S I A N D I N I N G E X P E R I E N C E
Dining, Takeout, Catering & Special Events 10108B – 124 Street • 452-8262
Ample free parking at rear with rear entrance available. Open for lunch and dinner Tuesday to Sunday, hours vary.
The Tomato | November December 2011 25
gifts to make Continued from page 23.
pears in brandy
short rib terrine
Proper English brandied pears make a festive dessert. Simple and easy, serve with shortbread cookies, ice cream, plain cake or by themselves. Spanish Fundador brandy is a good choice, inexpensive, with good flavour.
Cooked short ribs make an amazingly savoury terrine.
juice from two lemons (about ¼ c)
5 lbs bone-in beef short ribs, cut crosswise into 2" pieces sea salt and fresh cracked black pepper 3 t
dry red wine
3 medium onions, chopped 3 medium carrots, peeled, chopped
Fill a large bowl halfway with cold water, add lemon juice. Peel pears very carefully, leaving stems attached. Place pears in water as they are peeled.
10 sprigs flat-leaf parsley
Combine sugar, cinnamon sticks, star anise and 12 c water in a large stockpot. Drain pears and add to pot. Bring mixture to a boil, reduce heat, and simmer until just tender when pierced with a knife, about 10 to 30 minutes, depending on size and ripeness. Remove pears from liquid with a slotted spoon and divide evenly among jars. Raise heat to high and cook remaining liquid until reduced to 2 cups. Remove from heat and strain through a sieve lined with cheesecloth into a bowl. Divide the liquid evenly among the jars, and adding enough brandy to cover pears, to each. Add a few star anise pods to each jar. Allow jars to cool and screw on lids. Refrigerate for several weeks before eating to allow flavors to develop. Makes 6-8 one cup jars, depending on size of pears.
thyme, oregano, rosemary
home-made beef stock
Preheat oven to 350°F. Season short ribs. Heat oil in a large Dutch oven over medium-high heat. Brown short ribs on all sides. Don’t crowd the meat; work in batches. Reserve short ribs and pour off all but 3 T drippings.
Stir together paprika oil mixture, mashed garlic and the shredded short rib meat in a large bowl until combined. Pack mixture into a terrine, or bowl and let stand at room temperature for 1 hour to allow flavors to develop. Or, pack into individual terrines or bowls if giving as a gift. Refrigerate overnight. Serve at room temperature with slices of good bread, caper berries, Zinter Brown’s Onion Relish or agro-dolce cippolini onions. Keeps for about two weeks refrigerated.
agro dolce (sweet and sour) cipollini onions
Add onions, carrots and celery to pot and cook over medium-high heat, stirring often, until onions are browned, about 5 minutes. Add flour and tomato paste and cook, stirring constantly, until well mixed, 2-3 minutes. Add wine and short ribs with any accumulated juices. Bring to a boil, then lower heat to medium. Simmer until wine is reduced by about half, approximately 25 minutes. Add herbs to pot along with garlic. Stir in stock. Bring to a boil, cover and transfer to oven.
Delish with roast pork or goose, or on an antipasti platter with meats, cheeses and pickled vegetables. If you can’t find small round cipollini onions, use pearl onions instead.
Cook until short ribs are tender, about 2–2½ hours. Cool, then refrigerate overnight. The next day take off any fat on the top. Shred meat and reserve for terrine. 3 cloves
extra-virgin olive oil
1½ t hot Spanish smoked paprika rosemary 1 t
freshly cracked black pepper
6 c shredded short rib meat (about 6 cups)
26 November December 2011 | The Tomato
Cook garlic in oil in a 10-inch heavy skillet over low heat, turning occasionally, until tender and golden, about 15 minutes. Transfer garlic with a slotted spoon to a cutting board and mash to a paste with a fork. Cook paprika, rosemary and seasoning in oil remaining in skillet over low heat, stirring until fragrant, about 1 minute.
1 kg clean unpeeled cipollini onions
Boil, without stirring, washing down any sugar crystals on side of pan with a pastry brush dipped in cold water, until syrup turns pale golden. Continue to cook caramel, gently swirling pan, until deep golden. Immediately remove from heat. Carefully add wine, the caramel will steam, boil up, then harden. Return to heat. Simmer, stirring, until caramel is dissolved. Add onions, vinegar, oil, salt, peppercorns and bay leaf and simmer, uncovered, stirring occasionally, until onions are tender, about 1 hour. Transfer onions to a bowl, then boil liquid until reduced to about 1 cup, 10 to 15 minutes. Stir in balsamic vinegar; pour liquid over onions. Cool to room temperature. Chill, covered, 1 to 3 days to allow for flavours to develop. Onions keep, covered and chilled, 3 weeks. To give: transfer onions, with liquid to cover, into an attractive jar and label as you like.
pickled hot peppers Adapted from former Edmonton chef Lyle Beaugard’s recipe. You will need 8 small canning jars with lids and screw bands; a boiling-water canner, or a large deep pot, canning tongs and lots of clean towels. Use as part of an antipasto platter or add to pasta.
dry red wine
extra-virgin olive oil
6 c small hot chilie stems trimmed to ¼ inch
whole black peppercorns
1 T good quality balsamic vinegar Blanch onions in a large pot of furiously boiling water for 1 minute, then drain. Transfer to a bowl of ice cold water to stop cooking. Drain. Peel onions and reserve. Bring sugar and water to a boil in a large heavy saucepan over moderate heat, stirring until sugar is dissolved.
7-8 cloves garlic 3½-4 t
To sterilize jars and lids, wash jars, lids and screw bands in hot soapy water. Rinse well. Dry screw bands and reserve on a clean towels. Put jars and lids on a rack in a canner or pot and add enough water to cover by 2 inches. Heat until an instant-read thermometer registers 180°F (do not let boil). Keep the jars submerged in the hot water, covered, until ready to use.
Bring vinegar, water, sugar and salt to a boil in a large heavy pot. Stir until sugar is dissolved. Reduce heat and simmer, uncovered, 5 minutes. Drain jars upside down on a clean kitchen towel, 1 minute, then invert. Tightly pack jars with chilies and add 1 garlic clove and ½ teaspoon pickling spices to each jar. Fill jars with pickling liquid, leaving ¼ inch of space at top, then run a thin knife between liquid and jar to eliminate air bubbles. Seal and process jars: wipe rims of filled jars with a damp clean kitchen towel, then firmly screw on lids with screw bands. Put sealed jars on a rack in canner or pot and add enough hot water to cover by 2 inches. Bring to a boil, covered. Boil pickles, covered, 10 minutes, then transfer jars with tongs to a kitchen towel to cool. Jars will seal as they cool. If you hear a ping, a vacuum has formed at the top of jar. The lid will be concave. After jars have cooled overnight, press center of each lid to make sure that it’s concave. If so, you have a seal. If not, keep refrigerated and use within 2 weeks. Makes 12 jars.
olives with herbs and hot pepper Olives are terrific for an antipasti platter or tossed with pasta. 2 c brined pitted olives, such as Bella di Cerignola, Kalamata or Nicoise, rinsed ¼ c extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for filling jars ¼ t
crushed red-pepper flakes
2-3 snips tarragon (optional) 4 pieces fresh orange zest (1 long piece per jar) 2 T
Combine all of the ingredients in a large saucepan and heat until fragrant and flavours blend, about 5 minutes. Cool and transfer to small jars. Top up with oil. Refrigerate for at least 8 hours before serving. The olives keep up to 2 weeks. Drain before serving. Makes 4 small jars.
kitchen sink Continued from page 25
Learn hors d’oeuvres, dips and spreads for the festive season in a Seasoned Solutions Holiday Entertaining Cooking Class with Gail Hall, November 5, 19 and December 3. Cost $175 plus GST. Classes are limited to ten people. E-mail Gail at firstname.lastname@example.org to register.
Peter Blattmann’s Culinary & Wine Tour of Alsace-GermanyAustria, October 7-20, 2012, promises to be informative and entertaining with cooking classes, wine tastings, Viennese pastry, opera and spectacular river scenery. For details, visit gourmet-experience.com Are you a food journalist published in the US this year? If so, the Canadian Tourism Commission (CTC) invites you to submit work that best describes the relationship between Canada’s primary products and the culinary experience available in Canada. Visit fooddaycanada.ca/awards/ the-ctc-culinary-journalism-award for details. Winners receive $1000.
Enjoy the delicious pairing of culinary events, wine tastings and some of the best skiing and snowboarding in the world, January 18-22 at the Sun Peaks Winter Festival of Wine with a package from AMA Travel. Includes four nights hotel, two days skiing, three festival events and transfers from the Kamloops airport. From $799 per person, land only, based on two people sharing. Call 1-866-667-4777, AMATravel.ca Have an old-fashioned holiday experience November 4, 5 and 6 in the prettiest town in Alberta, Markerville. Enjoy the Arts & Craft Gift Sale, take the Cookie Walk, or make a gingerbread house for the competition at the church — there are prizes to be won. More info: Christmas in Markerville, historicmarkerville.com. New and/or interesting food and drink related news for The Kitchen Sink can be faxed to 780-433-0492 or email email@example.com.
The Tomato | November December 2011 27
wine maven |
mary bailey bad girl In our never ending quest for good bubbles at a great price, we found Bad Girl. It’s Cremant de Bordeaux, a sparkling wine made in the traditional fashion, like Champagne; aka bubbles created in the bottle. Primarily Semillon with some Cab Franc and Muscadelle, it’s citrusy, crisp and dry, fabulous by itself or as a base for mimosas, spritz and kir royales. It also sports an impossible-to-miss hot pink label. Tasty, fun label, good price, what’s not to like? Check out thunevin.blogspot. com. Around $20 in better wine shops.
sweet red wine steps out of the closet: zorzettig 2010 franconia igt della venezia giulia
Peter Gago, Penfolds Estates and Garry Wong, Liquor Outlet Heritage.
the cult of grange Penfolds Estate held a recorking clinic in Calgary late this year for Grange Hermitage collectors. “It’s a delicate process,” says Peter Gago, Penfold’s head winemaker, a bit of a cult figure himself. “What the clinics do is arrest further deterioration or damage due to a faulty cork.” The wines are assessed: Gago checks the fill, looks at the state of the cork and if necessary, opens the bottle, tastes the wine, tops up with a current vintage, then recorks. The wines are also certified and given a market value assessment — a delightful experience for Grange enthusiasts.
there’s a new beer in town: original 16 by great western brewing The name is a tribute to the 16 workers who bought the Saskatoon plant 20 years ago when the Carling Molson merger threatened closure. They created a new beer company and now, a new brand. Original 16 is a premium Canadian pale ale, crisp, hoppy and available pretty much everywhere.
28 November December 2011 | The Tomato
Noticing a trend? Red wines with noticeable sweetness. Some people like sweet, and not just as a dessert wine. The Franconia by large Friulano producer Zorzettig is right in step with this light-bodied, soft and fruity bottling with residual sugar. (Franconia grape variety is the German Blaufränkish or Limberger, generally used for blending in Friuli.) Now that some wine companies are owning up to sugar in their reds, such as the Middle Sister brand’s Sweetie Pie, isn’t it time for other wine companies to stop hiding this sweet fact under oak and descriptors such as fruit bomb? I’m just sayin’.
the corksicle Keep the corksickle in your freezer ready for action. When needed, plunk the corksickle into an open bottle of wine to keep it chilled rather than messing about with ice buckets. Call the Kettle Black $25.
Ian Sutherland of Poplar Grove.
poplar grove has a new home It’s hard to miss the new Poplar Grove — winery, tasting room, barrel hall and future on-site restaurant on Munson Mountain at the gateway to the Naramata bench. Ian Sutherland’s 1993 boutique winery, one of the first five on the bench, has grown with additional partners Barrie Sali, and Tony and Barb Holler bringing along 110 acres of prime Okanagan vineyards. What does it mean? Wines like The Legacy — hand picked fruit, French oak, aged for a minimum two years in the winery. The 2006 is mostly Merlot, with Cab Franc and Cab Sauv completing the blend; a concentrated, spicy glass of deliciousness.
rich uncle Continued from page 11
Devine, Liquor Depot Lendrum, Sherbrooke, Sublime Wines.”
Jason Sanwell, Fluid Imports, fluidimports.com Cash-strapped friend 2009 Tahbilk Marsanne Nagambie Lakes, Australia, $21 “Bright and crisp, with fresh citrus and tropical fruit flavours. My not-sosecret weekday pairing with this wine is ham and pineapple pizza. Available at Campbell Liquor, Crestwood,
2004 Terralsole Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Tuscany, Italy, $130 “Terralsole is a family-owned winery in Montalcino producing a small number of hand-crafted wines. The Riserva is their flagship, intense and rich with amazing depth and complexity. Patience will be rewarded, if you have the self-restraint to keep this wine for at least another six years. Better yet, ask your uncle for
event calendar wed, november 2
thu, november 17
Crestwood Wines, Terralsole Tuscan Dream in Montalcino Tasting 7pm, $25, 780-488-7800
Sublime Wines Tasting, Crush Imports Portfolio, 7pm, $25 firstname.lastname@example.org
wed, november 2
sat, november 19
Bin 104 Fine Wine and Spirits Tasting, Canadian Content 7pm, $40, 780-436-8850
Campbell Liquor, 15 Year Anniversary, 780-419-3444
thu, november 3 The Bothy, Isle of Arran Distillery Dinner, 6:30pm, $125, 780-761-1761
wed, november 23
sat, november 5 Sublime Wines Tasting, Hollick Wines, 7pm, $25, email@example.com
sun, november 6 Café de Ville, Hollick Wine Makers Dinner 6pm, $125, 780-488-9188
wed, november 9
Ryan Everitt, Trialto Wine Group, trialtowinegroup.com Cash-strapped friend Pares Balta Cava Brut Penedes, Spain, $17 “The Cusiné family are some of the nicest people in wine and they make incredibly good wine with a keen eye for value. Cava is made in the traditional method (like Champagne) from the Spanish grapes Parellada, Macabeo, Xarel.lo. Pear and apple aromas lead to fresh, fruity flavours; dry with a soft, pleasing finish. Available at most fine wine shops.”
Rich uncle 2006 Telmo Rodriguez Matallana Ribera del Duero, Spain, $110 “Telmo Rodriguez is so adamantly traditional he has become innovative in Spanish wine making. By choosing to focus on native Spanish grape varieties, recovering forgotten bush vine vineyards, and using concrete fermentation tanks, he is making some of the most exciting wines in Spain. This Tinto Fino (Tempranillo) has expressive aromas of toast, mineral, Asian spices, incense and blackberry opening to layers of flavour. Give it five years to fully blossom and drink through 2026. Available at fine wine shops.” All prices are approximate. Not all wines available in all stores.
OH OH OH!
mon, november 21 Ernest's at NAIT, Spilling the Beans Dinner, 5:30pm, $60 pulse.ab.ca
Christmas in November Packages, christmasinnovember.com
two bottles, one for now and one for later. Available at Devine, Campbell Liquor, Liquor Select.”
Bin 104 Fine Wine and Spirits Tasting, Douro Magic, 7pm, $50, 780-436-8850
thu, november 24 Sublime Wines Tasting, Camus Cognac, 7pm, $30 firstname.lastname@example.org
sat, november 26 Blue Kettle Specialty Foods, Christmas in our Kitchen Open House, 10am-4pm, bluekettle.ca
Sublime Wines Tasting, Kenneth Volk, 7pm, $25, email@example.com
sat, november 26
wed, november 16
wed, december 7
Century Grill, Veuve Clicquot Winemakers Dinner, $150, firstname.lastname@example.org
Bin 104 Fine Wine and Spirits Tasting, A Pinot Christmas 7pm, $50, 780-436-8850
Italia with Gusto Charity Tasting, 7pm, $64, 780-453-6182 Man u li fe Place 10180 - 101 Street 780.423.3083 Pleasantvi ew 11004 - 51 Avenue 780.436.0908 G le nora 12325 - 102 Avenue 780.488.0690 www.bernardcallebaut.com 1-800-661-8367
The Tomato | November December 2011 29
according to judy
| judy schultz
I’m Dreaming of a Retro Christmas On the verge of celebrating our first Canadian Christmas in eight years, I’m making up for lost meals. I won’t be contributing my usual potato salad to Christmas-on-thebeach. This year, let there be winter food. Turkey. It’s the only bird that matters. Forget roast beast (apologies to the Grinch), nor will I be cooking a goose. Bob Crachit’s Christmas dinner is a lovely bit of food lore, but geese are too greasy, ducks are too small. Prairie chickens, like pheasants, are way too dry. Turkey is my go-to bird. I want to baste it, smell it roasting, pick its lovely bones. It doesn’t have to weigh 20 kg, and nobody has to get up at the crack of dawn to cook it. (I remember an aunt rising at 6am “to get the bird in the oven.” Why? Were we roasting a buzzard, or what?) Next, let there be stuffing. I know it’s an all-but-lost art, but stuffing is a grace note for the roasted bird. Give it three hours in a slow cooker: bread, celery, onions, maybe an apple, definitely a ladleful of turkey stock. No oysters, though. Why would anybody put oysters in stuffing? I ask you. And yet, they persist. After the bird: mashed potatoes, turnip puff a la Aunt Laura, and gravy, in that order. Long-simmered scratch gravy, made the day before, with the turkey neck, giblets and
30 November December 2011 | The Tomato
the juice from Laura’s terrific turnip side. It’s all about depth of flavor. One more thing: Jiggle salad. I’ll bet you didn’t see that coming. Jiggle salad, AKA tomato aspic made with Clamato juice and a squeeze of fresh lemon, offers just enough acidity to keep all those rich flavours at bay. Plus it’s retro as heck, and it reminds me of home, and good prairie women whose party piece was the ever-glamorous ring of tomato aspic with stuffed olives and parsley sprigs. Christmas allows these whispers of dinners past. Celery stuffed with Cheez Whiz, devilled eggs, and the garage-sale survivor known as the ring mold. No plum pudding, though. The name has always puzzled me, given the total lack of plums. I’ll make a very small carrot pudding, because there will be prairie people at my table and they love carrot pud, with ice cream and brown sugar sauce. Boxing Day brings the best bit, the bonus round I’ve been missing for eight Boxing Days in a row: turkey bunwiches. I like mine with celery. Hold the mayo. Call me sentimental, but I’m a winter person. I want real snow for Christmas, not the plastic stuff. Come December, bring on the blizzard. And the bird. More Judy food: judyink.ca
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