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Formerly City Palate

The flavour of Edmonton’s food scene | November December 2010 | thetomato.ca

Gluten free holiday baking An entertaining Christmas menu A year in beer


WAITER, THERE’S A DIETITIAN IN MY MENU. Health Check ...now in restaurants! TM

Choosing healthy meals in restaurants just got easier with Health Check. Each Health Check menu item must meet nutrient criteria developed by the Heart and Stroke Foundation’s registered dietitians, based on recommendations in Canada’s Food Guide.

Participating restaurants:

Find out more at healthcheck.org

™ The Health Check logo, the Heart and Stroke Foundation of Alberta logo, and Finding Answers. For Life. tagline are trademarks of the Heart and Stroke Foundation of Canada and are used under license.


Contents editor Mary Bailey marybee@shaw.ca

publisher BGP Publishing

copy editor Amanda LeNeve

designer Bossanova Communications Inc.

contributing writers Peter Bailey Krysta Forrest Jan Hostyn Lorena D. Johnson Judy Schultz

illustration/photography Curtis Comeau Photography iStock Photo

6 14 15 12 14 26 28

layout and prepress printer distribution The Globe and Mail For editorial inquires, information, letters, suggestions or ideas, contact The Tomato at 780-431-1802, fax 780-433-0492, or email marybee@shaw.ca. For advertising information call 780-431-1802.

the tomato is published six times per year: January/February March/April May/June July/August September/October November/December by BGP Publishing 9833 84 Avenue Edmonton, AB T6E 2G1 780-431-1802 Subscriptions are available for $20 per year.

Crostini Six Ways Entertaining on toast

Breathing Room Northlands’ spectacular new kitchen | Lorena D. Johnson

The Thrill of the Aril How to eat a pomegranate | Jan Hostyn

Gluten Free Holiday Baking Holiday treats for all — even the gluten intolerant | Mary Bailey

The Grilled Cheese Sandwich A grilled cheese sandwich can put things right

Italia with Gusto! Winequest’s annual Italian wine tasting event

An Entertaining Christmas Menu Paul Campbell, Café de Ville

Departments

Bossanova Communications Inc.

Transcontinental

Features

5 8 10 18 20 22 24 30

Dish Gastronomic happenings around town

Beer Guy A year in beer | Peter Bailey

Drinks Gifts from cash-strapped friends and rich uncles

Wine Maven Peter Lehmann at Earl’s

Eating for Two Reinvention | Krysta Forrest

Feeding People Bake day | Lorena D. Johnson

Kitchen Sink What’s new and notable

According to Judy It’ll be a blue Christmas | Judy Schultz

Cover photo: iStock Photography.

thetomato.ca KeepEdmontonOriginal.com Exercise your power as a consumer thoughtfully.

The Tomato | November December 2010 3


Custom Holiday Gift Baskets, Panettone, European Chocolate, and much more! Please place corporate orders by December 1st.

Share a Taste of Italy

Coming soon! January February 2011: The cheap and cheerful, hunker down, comfort food issue.

Erratum Notice something missing in Mrs. Pahl's Rhubarb Chutney recipe in September/October Dish (page 5)? Three cups of sugar. Here’s the corrected recipe courtesy of Leanne Smoliak.

Rhubarb Chutney 4c

chopped rhubarb

1c

coarsely chopped golden sultanas

3c

sugar

1

large onion, chopped

2c

cider vinegar

1 clove

chopped garlic

1T

minced ginger root

1T

salt

¾t

each - cloves, allspice, cinnamon

1t

cracked pepper

¼t

pepper flakes

Simmer all ingredients in large pot slowly for 1 to 1½ hours. Stir frequently. Pour into sterilized jars. Store in refrigerator for up to two months or process in boiling water for 10 minutes.

Southside

L ittle Italy

5028-104A Street t. 780-989-4869

10878-95 Street t. 780-424-4869

www.italiancentre.ca


gastronomic happenings around town |

baby don’t cry Why do we cry when we chop onions? It’s that nasty thiopropanal sulfoxide. We’ve tried everything: not cutting the stem (a myth); cutting under water (not so great); even wearing swim goggles (works, but looks kooky). The Onion Goggles (RSVP, $22) really do work — no more red eyes, drippy mascara or runny noses. You’ll be able to practice your knife skills with abandon, dispatching bags of onions in no time flat. We found them at Dansk Gifts (Southgate 780-434-4013).

dish

the real thing England’s Belvoir Fruit Farms was strictly a fruit farm until Mary Manners started making cordials in her kitchen. Belvoir has carried on the same processes to this day: infusing, pressing and cooking fresh flowers, fruits and spices and blending with water from Belvoir Springs to make their unique Belvoir Fruit Pressé. Six flavours including organic lemonade and elderflower made with handpicked elderflowers, fresh lemon juice and lightly carbonated Belvoir spring water. We can’t wait to try the elderflower with Victoria Gin. We found them at Zocalo (250 ml, $3.81).

They work!

hans across the water In the spirit of international co-operation, Sherbrooke Liquor and Danish brewer Raasted Bryghus have teamed up to do what their respective governments cannot do — come to terms over Hans Island. “We expect the 1.5L Imperial Vanilla Stout to arrive sometime in November,” says Jim Pettinger of Sherbrooke, “at which point we’ll invite Stephen Harper and Lars Løkke Rasmussen to sit down over a beer and sort out this little brouhaha. Make beer, not war.”

happy anniversary!

Sparkling fresh fruit goodness.

product of the year Prediction: the hot product of 2010 will be designer Geoff Lilge’s gorgeous, and useful wooden boards. Launched in October at 29 Armstrong, the hand-finished boards come in two shapes and two finishes: maple and walnut ($150 and up, largest size is 26" x 20"). The boards are made in Edmonton with a group of design students assisting in the production. The maple boards can be used for cutting, the walnut finish is best for charcuterie or cheeses. Find the boards at 29 Armstrong (10129 104 Street, 780-758-4940) and geoffreylilge.com for now, but expect to see them in other shops in time for Christmas.

perfection in a cup We have found the perfect cappuccino cup and it’s from Germany — a white porcelain and stainless steel beauty made by Blomus ($26). You can test it out at the coffee bar at Zocalo. (10826 95 Street, 780-428-0754).

The Wine Cellar, founded by Hank Gillespie and now operated by Wade Brintnell, will celebrate 25 years of independent wine sales with a portfolio tasting at Characters, November 16. Over 50 wines from around the world will be offered along with appetizers. Tickets are $35 per person and available by contacting the store 780-4889463 or email thewinecellar@wcellar.ca. Space is limited to the first 150 people.

better than jiffy pop

Handmade right here in Edmonton.

Stasia Nawrocki of Dansk Gifts reminded us why we love popcorn. “The Whirley Pop Stovetop Popcorn Popper makes theater style popcorn in three minutes. Wabash Valley Farms Popcorn and the secret ingredients used by movie theaters included,” she says. This nifty gadget is really easy to use. Here’s our recipe for truffle popcorn: 1 T canola oil, 1 t white truffle oil, 1 T salt, 1 c fresh popcorn. Place all in the Whirley stovetop popper. At the first pop start turning the handle, and stop when you can’t turn the handle anymore. The popper will be full of the lightest popcorn you have tasted. It’s that simple. At Dansk ($36).

Die Tasse. Pop-a-licious and easy-peasy.

The Tomato | November December 2010 5


basic crostini Crostini should be bite sized or close to it. I like to use the small Tree Stone rustic loaves, but baguettes, ciabattas or small diameter crusty loafs will all work. 1 loaf

bread, sliced fairly thin

2T

extra-virgin olive oil

beef filet with gorgonzola cream

chicken with oregano on olive ciabatta

A bit more complicated perhaps, but worth the trouble.

The olive ciabatta made by the Italian Centre makes excellent crostini, crisp yet with enough give.

1 piece

sea salt and freshly cracked pepper finely chopped thyme or rosemary (optional) Preheat the oven to 375º F. Place all ingredients in large mixing bowl and toss the bread slices until they are evenly coated. Place on a baking sheet or roasting pan in one layer and bake until golden and starting to crust, about 10 minutes. A few darker spots, even burnt bits, are good. Turn once halfway through cooking. The crostini should have a bit of give to them — bake too long and they will be too brittle and hard to eat. If making ahead, cool before bagging or putting in a tin. Crostini keep for about a week but are at their best within a few days of baking. Serve hot, warm or at room temperature. Herb Toasts: Add fresh chopped herb (thyme, rosemary, parsley) to the oil. Top with goat cheese, then chopped black olive or thin-sliced roasted red pepper (from a jar). Parmesan Toasts: Brush one side with finely grated Parmesan then finish baking. Top with a slice of Parma ham drizzled with balsamic glaze.

(1½-lb) beef filet* trimmed, at room temperature

1t

Canola oil

16-20

crostini

1/3 –

mayonnaise or plain yogurt

1c

½c

olive ciabatta crostini

1 breast

chicken, poached, cut in strips or diced (or cooked white fish)

1c

chevre or ricotta cheese zest of ½ orange

crumbled (Gorgonzola) or blue cheese of your choice

sea salt and fresh cracked pepper

To cook the beef: Tie the beef with kitchen string to help maintain its shape. Pat beef dry and season. Heat oil in a heavy small skillet over medium heat. Place beef in skillet and cook until brown and cooked to desired doneness, about 8 minutes for rare, (or grill on the barbecue). Freeze the beef until it is just frozen — this makes it easier to slice, about 3 hours. Cut the beef into thin slices.

1-2 T

Mix the mayonnaise and cheese together until it is just holding together. It should be chunky; do not over mix. Place a small spoonful on each toast and top with a slice of beef, attractively arranged. Makes 16-20.

bean mixture

* The beauty of using filet for this recipe is that it will slice evenly without any layers of sinew running through, and it is luxurious. You could use flank or hangar steak instead.

Crostini Six ways Mary Bailey

CROSTINI ARE

a host’s best friend. These toothsome little bites, essentially a small piece of grilled bread with a topping, can be put together in a hurry with a loaf of bread and jars from the pantry. Try these savoury hits of deliciousness with cocktails, with champagne, with beer.

6 November December 2010 | The Tomato

12-16

chopped parsley

Blend the zest with the cheese and spread on crostini. Top with chicken. Season and dust with chopped parsley. Makes 12-16 crostini.

herbed tomato with white bean 1 can

white (cannellini) beans or chick peas, well drained and rinsed

1 clove

garlic, mashed

½t

ground cumin sea salt and freshly cracked papper

½ bunch

fresh parsley, leaves only, chopped fine sea salt and freshly cracked pepper

Mash white beans with the back of a fork or a potato masher until somewhat pureed, leaving some whole or partially whole. Add garlic, cumin and parsley and mix well. Season.

tomato mixture 1T

(or so) extra virgin olive oil

1t

lemon juice

2-4

roma tomatoes (or equivalent campari or grape tomatoes) diced, seeds removed

1 handfl

basil leaves, chopped fine

1-2 sprigs thyme, leaves only, chopped fine sea salt and fresh cracked pepper Drain tomatoes for about 20 minutes to remove excess water. Place oil and lemon juice in a medium sized bowl and whisk until emulsified, adjusting quantities if necessary. Add tomatoes and herbs to the dressing and toss to coat. Season. To serve: Place a dollop of white bean puree on each toast. Top with a small spoonful of tomato mixture. Makes about 16 toasts.


chinese bbq duck crostini I love to stop by Pak King’s in Chinatown to pick up a barbecued duck, dumplings or some toothsome pork for parties. They will chop the duck for you and arrange it attractively in a box to take home. 20-25

crostini

1

bbq duck

1 c

(or so) hoisin sauce

2-3 green onion, sliced very thin and chopped into pieces no longer than each crostini 40-50

enoki mushrooms

Drizzle each crostini with hoisin sauce (from the jar). Arrange duck meat and a bit of crunchy skin on each. Place a few onion strips over and top with two enoki mushroom. Drizzle with a bit of rice vinegar or lemon juice if desired. Makes 20-25 crostini.

caesar salad crostini Who doesn’t love Caesar salad? 2 cloves

garlic

2

egg yolks

2

white anchovies, chopped

½ T

Dijon mustard

½ c

olive oil

sea salt and freshly cracked black pepper 1 head romaine lettuce, washed, dried, torn into bite-sized pieces 1 chunk Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese for grating

Rub the inside of a large wooden bowl with the garlic cloves. Remove the garlic cloves, and chop finely. Add the garlic, egg yolks, anchovies and mustard to the bowl. Whisk until all ingredients are incorporated, then whisk in the lemon juice. Slowly drizzle in the olive oil while whisking constantly. Whisk until all the ingredients are emulsified. Season the dressing with salt and pepper. Place lettuce in a clean bowl and toss with a spoonful of dressing at a time until your desired degree of dressing to lettuce is reached. You may have some leftover dressing.

Fine Wines by Liquor Select Fine Wines | Exceptional Staff | Private Tasting Room Join us for weekly tastings, private events and corporate functions in our private tasting room — equipped with LCD projector and screen. 8924 149 Street | 780.481.6868 | liquorselect.com | wine@liquorselect.com

Place a mounded spoonful on each crostini (nice on the parmesan toasts if you like it really cheesy). Grate cheese over and serve immediately. Garnish with crumbled bacon if desired.

caponata crostini 1 tub Caponata* (Sicilian eggplant, caper and tomato relish) 12–16 crostini Place a dollop on each crostini. Serve. * Upper Crust makes a good one.

shrimp crostini 1 can

small shrimp

2 T

mayonnaise

1 T

capers

authentic - inspired - delicious

1 handfl chopped Italian parsley

lemon juice

10-12

crostini

Mix all ingredients to taste. Place on crostini and serve. Makes 10-12.

fine artisanal and farmstead cheeses gourmet and speciality foods | gift baskets and cheese platters 45th avenue & riverbend road www.everythingcheese.ca 780-757-8532

cookies • cakes • squares • delights • retail and special order • 14910 45 Avenue (Riverbend Road) • 780-479-3387

The Tomato | November December 2010 7


beer guy

Maintenance, repair and restoration of marble and granite countertops.

| peter bailey

A Year in Beer Watching Julia Roberts pretend to enjoy eating with gusto in the film Eat Pray Love, I imagined a beer guy remake of the film.

S T O N E C A R E

481-8795

novellostonecare@telusplanet.net

novellostonecare.com

Rome, Mumbai and Bali are out. Beer towns Portland, Brussels and Munich are in. Julia out; George Clooney in. Bring on the pints… There’s little personal wisdom to be found in immersing oneself in beer for a year in beervanas like Portland, but it sure would be fun. The beer quest might not rank up there with pilgrimages like walking the Camino de Santiago, but it could fit with the recent rash of quests where one spends a year doing something odd: living biblically, cooking like Julia, reading the Encyclopedia Britannica, not having sex, or — oddest of all — having sex with one’s spouse every single day of the year. And what of the last year in beer? 2010 was a good one for beer in Edmonton and Alberta. Calgary’s mega-micro Big Rock celebrated its 25th anniversary, while Edmonton’s Alley Kat celebrated its 15th. Kudos to Alley Kat for continuing to innovate, brewing special anniversary beers all year including a Ginger Beer, a Belgian Triple, a Smoked Porter and an Apple Wit. Alley Kat proprietor Neil Herbst is a perennial friend of beer, along with Sherbrooke Liquor Store’s Jim Pettinger, but, for me, this year’s Beer Hero is Jason Foster. A homebrewer, beer writer and all-round beer guy, this year, Jason kicked it up a notch, starting a popular beer blog, OnBeer.org, organizing Edmonton’s first cask ale night, as well as tasting nights including one on the rare Belgian Cantillon lambic beers.

• Extensive malt whisky selection • By-the-glass wine, champagne & sparkling • Cheese, paté, charcuterie & gourmet haggis • Available for private functions

The Cantillons were the most exotic — and expensive — beers to reach Edmonton this year, but new craft

5482 Calgary Trail

780.761.1761

8 November December 2010 | The Tomato

Bothy_8H.indd 1

10/19/09 9:43:47 AM

beers from Japan and Denmark had even beer geeks scratching their heads. Kiuchi Hitachino Nest Beer XH? Raasted Bryghus Grillol? Don’t worry, just drink ’em! A few classic beers finally made it to Alberta, including Weihenstephaner Hefeweissbier and Anchor Porter. Weihenstephanser is the ur-wheat beer, first brewed in Germany in 1040, and Anchor Porter is the San Francisco beer that brought porter back from the dead. Welcome to Alberta — we’re glad you’re here! Porter laid claim for beer style of the year, but the award goes to Imperial IPA, or Double IPA (India Pale Ale). Not a style for the faint of tongue; this is IPA on steroids amped up with extra hops, extra malt and extra alcohol. Hopheads rejoiced as every craft brewer worth his hops brought out a D-IPA, from Saskatoon’s Paddock Wood Loki (a malty English version) to Winnipeg’s Half Pints Humulus Ludicrous (a hop bomb with 100 IBUs). Are they drinkable for regular humans? Yes, but proceed with caution. Beer fans had more places to enjoy good beer, including a carefullychosen new beer menu at High Street’s Urban Diner. Jasper Brewing replicated itself down the Icefields Parkway with Banff Ave Brewing. Try their flagship beer, Head Smashed IPA. Back in Edmonton, newcomer Red Star Pub has a deep beer menu full of Belgians and the Original Joe’s chain continues to support Alberta brewers with their taps of Alley Kat and Wild Rose. But the best bar for a beer this year was the Sugar Bowl for the extensive beer selection and their support of local beer, particularly in hosting cask ale nights. It’s too cold for the Sugar Bowl patio now, so raise a glass of Hoegaarden, remember those elusive warm Edmonton summer nights. Until then, have a Beery Christmas and a Hoppy New Year.


A Year in Beer Six-Pack New Kid in Town: Yellowhead Lager With spring came Yellowhead, a new Edmonton brewery rising from the ashes of the Maverick Brewery. They have started with a single beer, a German-style lager. It is a pleasant, mild brew with a bit of bread and grass on the nose, clean and gently malty to taste, gently hopped and very easy to drink.

One-of-a-kind gift baskets and cheese trays for the holidays

A Beer and Food Epiphany: Cannery Brewing Naramata Nut Brown Ale During dinner at the Hardware Grill, I was pleased to learn they had a beer available on draught: Naramata Nut Brown Ale from Penticton, BC. The dark brown of the beer matched the earth tones of the decor, and its slightly sweet, nutty maltiness was the perfect partner to the hearty cuisine that followed.

Favourite New Summer Beer: Central City Red Racer IPA Vancouver friends say with a sneer that nothing good comes from Surrey, BC. Sorry friends; you’re wrong. This exciting beer is the antithesis of suburban dull. Beer purists may knock a beer in a can, but it’s what’s inside that counts: a powerfully hoppy, fruity, snappy IPA. My summer love.

Most Welcome Return: Granville Island Brockton IPA All is forgiven. Vancouver’s Granville Island Brewing left Alberta for a while, but returned this summer, bearing a gift — a great new IPA brewed to celebrate Granville’s 25th anniversary in 2009. Older Granville beers can be too muted, but this IPA has a great, bitter hop punch paired with big malt. Welcome back.

Favourite Autumn Seasonal: Alley Kat Apple Wit Think globally; drink locally. For the fourth in their 15th anniversary series, Edmonton’s Alley Kat combined a Belgian beer style with Canadian apples as a celebration of fall and the harvest. They replaced the orange peel and spices in a standard witbier with Granny Smith apples — think Hoegaarden + apple cider! Fall in a bottle.

Matahari

A PA N - A S I A N D I N I N G E X P E R I E N C E

Dining, Takeout, Catering & Special Events 10108B – 124 Street • 452-8262

Ample free parking at rear with rear entrance available. Open for lunch and dinner Tuesday to Sunday, hours vary.

Favourite Winter Seasonal: Wild Rose Cherry Porter Desert in a glass from Calgary’s Wild Rose — a bit like drinking Black Forest cake. Brewed at holiday time with real BC cherries, this spectacular seasonal pours as black as the darkest winter night. The taste is dark roast with coffee and chocolate notes and just a nice bit of cherry sweetness. Leave some out for Santa. Peter Bailey is an Edmonton-area librarian who vows to drink a beer a day for 365 days in 2011. Not that it is something new, of course.

The Tomato | November December 2010 9


drinks Gifts from cash-strapped friends and rich uncles Every year, we ask the wine reps, the import agency owners and wine shop personnel: What are your finds this year? What would they like to receive from the friend with more taste than money? Or what sky-is-no-limit gift would they be thrilled to find under the tree from their most generous uncle?

500 bottles of beer

on the wall.

REALLY. We stock 500 brands of beer

seven days a week.

SHERBROOKE

This year, we were thinking of soulful wines and spirits, from offbeat, or less well-known, producers that offer great value. We’re looking for real world wines and spirits that drink above their price tags — the ultimate gift for our readers. What’s hot for 2011? Big juicy reds from spectacular northern Rhones, Franco-Argentinean collaborations and stellar Napa cabs to easy-going Malbecs, and a bottle of Canadian gin.

LIQUOR STORE 11819 St. Albert Trail

(east side of traffic circle)

455-4556

Juanita Roos Crestwood Wine Shop Cash-strapped friend: 2007 Laurent Miquel Nord Sud Viognier (under 10235 - 124 Street N.W. $20, Southern France) Edmonton, AB

780.488.7656 “Outstanding! Elegant, with floral www.dahliasbistro.com and apricot aromas and flavours. MoNdAyand to FridAy 11AM - 8PM Vines wine nurtured at the SAturdAy 11AM - 5PM 10235 - 124 Street family N.W. estate. Try with Indian food Edmonton, AB or an elegant salad.”

Paulette Luchkovich Pacific Wines & Spirits Cash-strapped friend: Torres Floralis Moscatel Oro N/V ($16, Spain) “An amazingly seductive dessert wine, redolent with scents of raisins, walnuts and honey, along with a nice thick texture paired with refreshing acidity.”

Rich uncle: 2006 M. Chapoutier Hermitage Le Pavillon ($315, Northern Rhone, France) “From the fabled hill of Hermitage — muscular, dense, luscious. Displays complex acacia flower and smoky crème de cassis aromas. Extraordinarily pure and long.”

Barb and Susan Giacomin WineQuest Wine & Spirit Brokers Cash-strapped friend: Fabiano Soave ($13.99,Veneto, Italy) “Cheap, but no harlot! Fresh, fragrant, genuine and approachable, this white is perfectly suited to greet the guests, take for turkey dinner and charm the crowds.”

Rich uncle: Renwood Zinfandel Four Pack ($223, USA) ”A horizontal of Renwood's delicious Old Vine, Jack Rabbit, Grandmere and Grandpere Zinfandels (vines range from 50-90 years old). Compare and contrast or just hoot and holler as you enjoy top-notch reds. Throw in a side of bison and have a party sophisticated cowboy style!”

780.488.7656

www.dahliasbistro.com Rich

uncle: Victoria Gin MoNdAy to FridAy 11AM -($50, 8PM British Columbia) SAturdAy 11AM - 5PM

10235 - 124 Street N.W. Edmonton, AB

780.488.7656 www.dahliasbistro.com MONDAY to FRIDAY 11AM - 8PM SATURDAY 11AM - 5PM

”This handmade premium gin is a fabulous edition to Uncle Bob’s liquor cabinet! Intense juniper aromas with notes of citrus, floral and spice. A fine gin indeed.”

10 November December 2010 | The Tomato

Dale Orvis, Charton Hobbs Cash-strapped friend: 2007 Gray Monk Odyssey Merlot ($25, Kelowna, BC) “Everyone wants a wine that over delivers in value and flavour. Well, you’ve got it in this bottle! The grapes used in the Odyssey Series Merlot are single vineyard fruit, aged in oak for 12 months. Complex aromas of blueberries, dark plums and nutmeg carry through to ripe flavours of black cherries, lingering spice and licorice.”

Rich uncle: 2003 Cheval de Andes ($90, Mendoza, Argentina) “This Bordeaux-style blend (41 per cent Malbec, 41 per cent Cabernet Sauvignon and 18 per cent Petit Verdot) expresses finesse, exoticism, power, freshness, elegance and authenticity. It is a wine that follows no fashion.”

Ryan Everitt Trialto Wine Group Cash-strapped friend: Pares Balta Cava Brut ($18, Penedes, Spain) “Excellent value Spanish cava, certified organic, made by a family that has been growing grapes for a couple of hundred years.”

Rich uncle: Victoria Gin ($50, British Columbia) “This is the new artisan designer gin from Vancouver Island and it’s fantastic — a hit on the coast and seems to have a loyal following here already.”

Anita Jarmolicz International Cellars Cash-strapped friend: 2008 Bleasdale Second Innings Malbec ($13.99 Langhorne Creek, Australia) “Dark eggplant with rich inky fruit and soft tannins — great value in that some of the fruit in this wine is from vines that are over 70 years old. Bleasdale, one of the oldest winery in Oz is also cricket crazy — hence the name.”

Rich uncle: 2009 Bodegas Colome Amalaya ($18, Salta, Argentina) “An elegant blend of 70 per cent Malbec, 20 per cent Cabernet, five per cent Syrah and five per cent Tannat. The wine tastes like a fine Bordeaux, with depth, finesse and impeccable balance.


Celebrating 103 Years! Wade Brintnell The Wine Cellar Cash-strapped friend: 2008 Lucky Country Shiraz ($19.95, Australia) ”Deep crimson with aromas of cedar and vanilla, toasted oak over dark chocolate, plum and spice.”

Rich uncle: 2008 Guillon Mazi-Chambertin ($128.95, Burgundy, France) Extremely ripe with loads of purple fruit, especially plum, and classic animale nuances that characterize both the nose and wonderful, muscular, palate-drenching flavours. This should reward those with patience.”

Kelsey Danyluk TZiN Wine & Tapas Cash-strapped friend: 2009 Wolfberger Gewurztraminer ($24, Alsace, France) “Classic varietal flavours of clove and violet, followed by an explosion of peach and mango. The wine is elegant, balanced and slightly sweet. Even if your friends are not, you will be sure to enjoy it!”

Rich uncle: 2004 ‘Sandra’ Alder Creek Vineyard ZanZibar Cellars ($89, Columbia Valley, USA) “Sandra is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Syrah offering immense complexity and structure. Well-balanced rich fruit, savoury side notes and good depth, will improve over the next ten years.”

Jeff Sparling Fine Wines by Liquor Select Cash strapped friend: 2008 Chook Shed Shiraz ($13.49, Australia) “Unapologetically 100 per cent Barossa Valley Shiraz. Get the barbecue ready, it’s ready to take on all grilled fare.”

Rich uncle: 2007 Darioush Shiraz ($99.99, Napa Valley) “Introduced by enticing aromas of cassis, pomegranate and orange zest, and possessing a wealth of dark fruits and spices.”

Dana Rajotte Renaissance Wine Merchants

The freshest seafood available,

Cash-strapped friend: 2009 Tapiz Malbec (Mendoza, Argentina, $19.95) “Drinkable now with ripe cherry flavours, soft tannins — it’s what we in the wine biz like to call poundable. Malbec is hot right now. You'll look like a rockstar!” says Dana.

Rich uncle: 2008 Caymus Napa Cabernet ($110, USA) “This is without a doubt what you'd like to receive from your generous uncle. Classic Napa Cab, with bold flavours, dark fruit, firm, subtle tannins and ageability. It was one of the wines served at my wedding last year so it has a special place in my heart.”

skillfully prepared. 7331 104 Street • Reservations 780.433.0091 Visit billingsgate.com for weekly specials • Catering available

specializing in : cocktail parties family style weddings & private dinner parties contact: zana@culinafamily.ca

Sandi Hollas Grady Wine Marketing. Cash strapped friend: 2009 De Bortoli Emeri Sparkling Pink Moscato ($16.99, Australia) “A wonderfully social beverage that’s just sweet enough to be sinful. Pair it with turkey and ham or the bolder Asian spicings of Indian and Thai.”

Rich uncle: 2008 Seghesio Rockpile Zinfandel ($45.00, USA) “Medium-bodied, possessing elegant raspberry and black currant flavours with a suggestion of clove, black pepper and herbs. Pure delight.”

The Tomato | November December 2010 11


Mary Bailey

GlutenFreeHoliday Baking It’s one thing to give up bread and substitute gluten free pasta or pizza crust, but to give up Christmas baking?

For those who can’t tolerate wheat and gluten, holiday treats become another thing to avoid. As I have several friends and colleagues who have wheat sensitivities or are celiac, I wanted to find a way to create great Christmas baking without gluten. I started with substituting gluten free (gf) flour blends in several holiday standbys, and moved on to playing around with different flours and starches. I asked colleagues what they did for gf baking and then I hit the Net, which wasted several hours but was entertaining.

• Flour blends: there are several gf flour mixes on the market, but I played around with several different flours to see how they would work. I didn’t come up with the definitive blend, finding different blends worked for different cookies, but here are some I found during research.

flour blend one

½c

sorghum flour

¼t

xanthan gum

1c

butter

½c

millet flour

1/3

½c

cornmeal

1t

¼c

almond flour

¾c

starch: tapicoa, potato or corn starch

1t

xanthan gum

Whisk flours, xanthan gum and cornstarch in a separate bowl and reserve. Beat butter and icing sugar together until fluffy. Mix in dry ingredients just until blended. Roll into small balls and place on prepared baking sheet (the dough will be sticky). Bake at 325ºF for 10-12 minutes. Cool completely before handling.

flour blend two ½c

millet, almond or buckwheat flour

• Use or develop recipes that don’t have much flour to begin with, such as shortbread and rich tea cookie-type recipes made with butter.

1c

starch: tapioca, potato or corn starch

1t

xanthan gum

• Carefully mix wet and dry (think of folding in whipped cream). It’s too easy to knock the stuffing (trapped carbon dioxide) out of the mix.

GEMS Flour Formula (Gems of Glutenfree Baking, by Wendy Turnbull, Whitecap)

flour blend three

2¾ c brown rice flour 2/3

c

sweet white sorghum flour

1/3

c

gluten-free oat flour

3T

bean flour

where to buy gluten free (gf) baking ingredients Kinnikinnick Foods 10940 120 Street, plus most shops carrying gluten free products.

• Prepare baking sheets with parchment paper. Cut to fit or a Silpat.

Ed’s Gluten Free Specialty 9303 34 Avenue

• Use Lactancia unsalted butter in stick form for easy measuring and best results.

Planet Organic 7917 104 Street, 12120 Jasper Avenue

• Turn cookie sheets halfway through baking time.

Italian Centre Shops 5028 104A Street, 10878 95 Street

12 November December 2010 | The Tomato

tapioca flour

sorghum flour

1c

sorghum flour

• Make xanthan gum your friend. This natural ingredient mimics gluten by helping to trap air, and assists in crafting a nice texture. I didn’t try guar gum but it’s supposed to do the same thing.

½c

c cornstarch

1c

• Kinnikinnick rocks. Their GF products come in resealable bags, they are an Edmonton based company and their products are available just about everywhere.

Kirstin Kotelko’s family recipe, remodeled. Make these bite sized as they are very tender.

2/3

Here are a few things I learned while making gluten free (gf) cookies:

• Chill dough before making cookies. They seem to need more rest and are easier to work with after a stint in the refrigerator.

lemon drops

c

icing sugar lemon zest, finely chopped

icing (optional) 1/3

c

2/3

c

soft butter icing sugar 3T

fresh lemon juice 1 T lemon zest Blend together until creamy. Ice cookies with a knife.

variations Dip the iced cookies in coconut. Finely chop fresh rosemary and mix ½ t into the cookie dough. Finely chop dried cranberries and mix ¼ c into the cookie dough.


ginger chocolate christmas biscotti

nutty crunchy cookies

This biscotti recipe went through several testings before I came up with something that looked like the original. The problem was spread. This mix of flours did the trick and don’t forget the xanthan.

It’s not the holidays without a nutty cookie. Adapted from glutenfreegoddess.blogspot.com

¼c

potato starch

¼c

sweet rice flour

¼c

sorghum flour

¼c

tapioca flour

½c

almond flour

2t

baking powder

1t

xanthan gum

¼t

salt

1 stick

butter, softened

1c

sugar

2

large eggs

½t

vanilla zest of 1 lemon

1c

dark chocolate (in small chunks), chopped candied ginger, dried cherries, and chopped almonds (approx equal parts of each)

Preheat the oven to 350°F. In a large bowl, whisk flours together with baking powder, xanthan gum and salt. Reserve. Cream butter and sugar, about 3 minutes. Mix in eggs, one at a time. Add vanilla and zest. Add the dry ingredients to wet about 1/3 cup at a time, running mixer on low to incorporating the dry. When all the flour mixture has been added, mix in the ginger/chocolate/almond/ cranberry mixture and blend just until incorporated. Wrap dough in plastic and chill for about one hour or overnight. To form biscotti logs, shape the dough into two or three loaf-like logs, about 3-4 inches in diameter, on a prepared baking sheet. Bake the biscotti until the biscotti logs are golden and somewhat firm, about 15-20 minutes. Cool on baking sheet. Turn oven down to 325ºF. When the logs are cool enough to handle and hold their shape, cut in ½ to ¾" slices with a serrated knife. Place them on prepared baking sheets and place in the oven. Bake for about 10 minutes until starting to darken for soft biscotti, about 20 minutes for dark, crunchy biscotti. Cool completely before handling. Makes about three dozen biscotti.

1c

almond flour

1c

sorghum flour

½c

tapioca starch

1½ t

baking soda

1½ t

xanthan gum

1t

sea salt

1½ c

light brown sugar, packed

1/3

c

plus 1 T olive oil

1T

honey

2

eggs

1T

vanilla milk (or almond milk)

1

egg

Preheat the oven to 325°F.

2t

vanilla

½t

nutmeg

In a large bowl, whisk flours, xanthan gum, cocoa powder and salt. Reserve. Mix butter and sugar together until creamy. Add vanilla. Add flour mixture a bit at a time, until combined.

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Whisk dry ingredients together and set aside. Cream butter and sugar, then add egg and vanilla. Beat until light and fluffy. Add dry ingredients to the butter mixture and nutmeg. Mix. Wrap the dough in plastic wrap and chill for at least one hour or overnight. Roll out to ½-inch thickness, cut out and bake for about 12-15 minutes. Let rest for at least 10 minutes before handling.

gluten free valencia orange cake Courtesy Shari de Souza, Culina’s in house baker

Dust surface kitchen counter with rice flour. Roll dough to ½ inch thickness. Cut out cookies until you have used all the dough, or roll into balls and place on cookie sheet. Bake for about 15 minutes, or until they feel firm to the touch. Cool on the baking sheet for five minutes, then move to a wire rack to cool completely Makes about 30 cookies.

cornmeal thyme cookies

In a large bowl, whisk dry ingredients together. In a separate bowl, briefly cream sugar, oil and honey. Add eggs one at a time, then add vanilla. Add the dry ingredients to the creamed brown sugar mixture a little at a time. Add 1-2 T milk as needed. Beat until smooth — not too wet, not too dry. Stir in pecans. Cover bowl and chill dough for half an hour.

2

oranges

A delicious, not too sweet cookie. As the dough is very soft and sticky, chilling makes it easier to work with.

4

eggs

1¾ c

2c

brown sugar

2c

almond flour

Bob’s Red Mill gf all-purpose baking flour (contains chick pea and fava bean flour.)

1c

brown rice flour

1t

baking soda

½t

salt

1c

stone-ground yellow cornmeal

1t

baking soda

½t

salt

¼t

xantham gum

Preheat the oven to 350º F.

Wash the oranges and boil them whole for 1½ hours. Place the oranges in a food processor and process till smooth. Add rest of ingredients and process till well blended.

1¼ c

sugar

2

eggs

¾c

dried currants

Pour batter into a greased 9" round pan. Bake for 40-45 minutes. Let cool in pan for 2 hours.

Preheat oven to 350ºF, Line two baking sheets with parchment paper; set aside.

tom douglas’ chocolate shortbread

Whisk together flour, baking soda, cornmeal and salt in a medium bowl.

¾c

chopped pecans

Quickly form dough into balls and place on cookie sheet, about two inches apart. Press down on the dough balls to flatten a bit, but keep a slightly mounded shape. They will spread. Add a sprinkle of chopped pecans on top if desired. Bake in the center of a pre-heated oven for roughly 15 minutes, until the cookies are golden and firm to the touch. Let cookies cool on the baking sheet for five minutes, then transfer to a wire rack. Makes 20-30 cookies depending on size.

Sugar Cookies Not as crispy/chewy as regular sugar cookies but taste like Christmas all the same. 2½ c

gf flour

1t

baking powder

2½ t

xanthan gum (omit if the flour mix contains it)

1c

sugar

1c

butter

Preheat oven to 375ºF.

A gluten-free version of a recipe in the Seattle Kitchen cookbook, adapted from glutenfreegirl.blogspot.com ¾c

sweet rice flour

½c

teff flour

¼c

millet flour

¼c

tapioca flour

½t

xanthan gum

½c

cocoa powder

½t

salt

1c

unsalted butter

½c

sugar

1t

vanilla extract

2 sticks unsalted butter, softened

1 T+½ t finely chopped fresh thyme

Cream butter and sugar on medium until pale and fluffy, about 3 minutes. Mix in eggs, one at a time. Add flour mixture; mix on low speed until just combined. Mix in currants and thyme. Wrap dough in plastic and chill for one hour or overnight. Drop small balls of dough onto lined sheets, spacing them two inches apart. They spread. Bake until pale golden, about 10 minutes. Transfer cookies, on the parchment, to a wire rack. Let cool completely before handling. Makes about 48 small cookies.

The Tomato | November December 2010 13


R O OM B R E AT H I N G

NORTHLANDS’ SPECTACULAR NEW KITCHEN | LORENA D. JOHNSON

Christmas is coming, but Mark Hughes feels like Santa has doled out kitchen gifts for the Edmonton Exposition Centre all year long.

The executive chef and the Northland’s kitchen brigade moved into a new 16,000 sq. ft. kitchen, and he couldn’t be happier. “It’s been like Christmas for the last year,” said Hughes, who oversees a core kitchen staff of 24 people. Programmable ovens, blast chillers (coolers that chill hot food immediately with the use of high powered fans) and a conveyer belt for plating food, now make this kitchen stand out. The wellfinished new workspace, with none of the “cracks and crannies” of the old, provides an excellent work environment and can be checked off Hughes’ wish list.

whole point is to move items out of the (temperature) danger zone as quickly as possible.”

Freshness and quality are also preserved with the new equipment. Vegetables keep their true colours and retain nutrients. Even doing the dishes has been improved. When Hughes started with Northlands 12 years ago, it took the better part of a week to wash the dishes from a banquet for 1,000 people. Now, plates, bowls, silverware, cups and

It wasn’t long ago that staff juggled kitchen equipment in their tight space of the former AgriCom. The business had outgrown its kitchen capacities. Since there were only a couple of hood fans, it wasn’t uncommon to wheel a deep fryer out of the way if a grill was needed. Or vice versa. Soups, sauces, and gravies were started early in the day as it took about four and a half hours to prepare several batches in the kitchen’s limited stockpots. Today, eight or nine can simmer at once in the massive cauldrons. The jewel of the kitchen has to be the five new combi ovens which roast, steam, poach, bake and broil using moist or dry heat as needed. Just eight minutes before service, the plated meals (80 per cent cooked and stored in blast chillers) are finished in these computerized ovens. “It really optimizes the safety environment,” explains Arlindo Gomes, director of Hospitality and Client Services at Northlands. “The

14 November December 2010 | The Tomato

saucers, assorted serving pieces and all equipment are sanitized and ready for action within 24 hours of the event.

What about a chef’s worst nightmare? The food is ready, the servers are standing by — only to be frustrated by long-winded speeches or other delays in the program. “That’s really not a big deal,” said Gomes. “A dinner for 1,000 people goes from fridge to table in 20 minutes. It allows us to stage that.”

Hughes chuckles that he’s become more of a clock-watcher than a chef. “It’s a real timing thing,” he said, noting the entrees are rolled into the oven as soon as salad is served. Joking aside, this $2 million investment has paved the way for more customized menus to be developed with clients. There’s also an opportunity for more scratch cooking. Wild boar sausage paella made with barley, truffle popcorn and an adult candy station, in-house ice cream and desserts as well as a whole roast pig are just a few ideas recently crafted in his kitchen. A new hot-and-cold smoker is one of chef Hughes’ favourite toys right now. Visitors are duly impressed. “When people who visit get a look at my smoker, their eyes are bugging out.”

Northlands’ stockpot lineup.

Catering for thousands is an immense logistical exercise. Here’s a behind-the-scenes look at some of the operation’s numbers: • 2,800 chicken breasts can be cooked every 20 minutes. • A combi oven holds 96 plates. • Three flash chillers cool foods quickly for safety and to preserve quality and nutrition. “It’s like when you’re skiing and you’re on the chair lift,” explains Gomes. “When it gets windy, you cool off very quickly — you can feel it.” • 1,500 meals can be plated per hour with the conveyer belt and plate rack plating system. Eight staff work the conveyer, each taking on a task from placing plates to adding various components such as vegetables, potatoes or the protein. • Largest Expo Centre function to date: a graduation for 2,300. • Expo Centre stages 1,100 events annually from small gatherings of 10 people to banquets of up to 5,000.

Gomes said the new kitchen is among the largest banquet facilities of its kind in Edmonton. That makes it much easier to take on graduations and other large events that feed up to 5,000 people. But they don’t turn their backs on smaller functions, either. “We’re able to offer the local community a lot more options when it comes to events. “People who haven’t seen it are amazed at what the process is like and what technology does,” said Gomes, adding plans evolved over the past few years. “It was a fun time to go through that.” The footprint of the new kitchen is permanent but there’s plenty of room to scale up or down as needed. “I can see it expanding, with a lot more technology coming in,” adds Hughes. “It’s a really nice venue.” Edmonton writer Lorena D. Johnson dreams of the day even her stovetop will be self-cleaning.


Aril How to eat a pomegranate • Jan Hostyn

the thrill of the

I’m standing in my messy kitchen, I have

juicy red splotches all over my body and I’m happy. Gloriously happy, actually. No, I’m not crazy — not completely, anyway — and I haven’t contracted a nasty case of the measles or started spontaneously spurting blood. No, it’s much more prosaic than that. I’ve just dismantled a pomegranate. Yup, a pomegranate. You know, those glorious crimson orbs that captivate every time you set foot in a grocery store this time of year. There you are, minding your own business, and voila, there they are, in all their resplendent beauty. Not only are they gorgeous in a mysterious, hidden-treasure kind of way, but they’re fabulously — and famously — good for you. They’ve even had their own stint on the superfoods of the moment list. That’s when the struggle begins. Do you surrender to temptation and plunk several in your cart, or do you resolutely traipse on past? The dilemma. Rejecting the pomegranates’ silent plea is the simple, prudent choice. After all, pomegranates are rather messy, complicated creatures. But, if you give in, the promise of unmitigated bliss is almost palpable. Do it. Grab a pomegranate and immerse yourself in the experience. You’ll find that as luscious and yummy and downright addictive as pomegranates can be, conquering them is ultimately even more satisfying. You could simply throw a microscopic, exorbitantly expensive package of pomegranate arils (the luscious, edible seed bit) in your cart — you know, the ones that some machine somewhere has had its way with, that always seem to look a bit, well, weary. Where’s the fun in that? So, which pomegranate gets the honour of accompanying you home? Big and heavy, or small and light? Ruby red and perfectly smooth, or slightly pink and rustically bumpy? Ah, the million aril question.

Generally speaking, you’re looking for big, smooth, and brilliantly red. Oh, and enticingly heavy is always good, a hint at an interior exploding with succulence. Generally speaking, mind you. There are different types of pomegranates, and each has its own unique characteristics — small and pink have been known to dazzle. A puny, pastel-tinged one I picked up on a whim once at the Italian Center surprised me and still haunts with the memory of its deliciousness. With the California Wonderful variety that typically shows up around here, you never quite know what treasures you’re going to unearth until you actually break into it. Consider that the thrill of the aril.

Cart it home — carefully, they do bruise — and place lovingly on the counter, then do something with your lovely treasure, now. If you leave it just to languish on the counter, procrastinating, it will sense your neglect and wither miserably, the juicy arils shriveling into crunchy, inedible bits. Do what, exactly? How do you get into a pomegranate? Painstakingly dismember it, or dive in, mouth first, and loudly and primitively slurp away. Stellar choices, both. You can even juice it — may I recommend conquering that particular task outdoors. I choose dismemberment: wash it, slash it a few times with your trusty knife and take a deep breath. Slowly, carefully crack it open. Is it bursting with red, plump, juicy arils and lovely, thick white membranes — or are the arils a mix of passive pink and demoralizing brown? Hopefully, they’re red — yay for you. If not, well... Now this is when the real fun begins — the actual deconstruction. Prepare for splatters, misbehaving runaway arils (over 600, in a typical pomegranate) and uncooperative, possessive membranes that cling to the arils with a passionate vengeance. Prepare to be challenged. Prepare to make a mess. After all is said and done, prepare to be gob-smacked with complete and utter satisfaction. Keep in mind that you can choose to dismantle your prized pom in a bowl of water, the idea being that the arils will sink, the membranes will float and the bright crimson sprays of lovely juice will be somewhat minimized. Not eliminated, mind you, but definitely diminished. It does ratchet down the zen factor a few notches, though. Do you devour every last aril now, or savour them later? Or will it be some now, some later? A few now and a lot later? And do you enjoy them plain, in their pure and natural state, or do you playfully toss them in whatever happens to cross your path — pomegranate nanaimo bars, anyone?

Roasted Walnut Pear and Pomegranate Salad Salad 2

Bartlett pears

1T

lemon juice

1 head

frisée lettuce, washed and dried

1 head

Boston lettuce, washed and dried arils (seeds) from 1 pomegranate

1/3 c

toasted walnuts*

Dressing ¼c

(approx) extra virgin olive oil juice of ½ lemon (approx)

drizzle

pomegranate vinegar sea salt and freshly cracked pepper

Whisk all ingredients in a large bowl. Season. Reserve at room temperature while preparing salad ingredients Core and slice pears, then toss with lemon juice to prevent browning. Tear lettuces into bite-sized pieces and toss in the vinaigrette. Add pears carefully to prevent breaking. Or, put on plates and drizzle some dressing over. Arrange salad on plates. Toss over walnuts and pomegranate arils. Serve immediately. Variation: Add 1 c rumbled blue or goat cheese. * To roast walnuts: Place raw nuts on a cookie sheet and cook at 350ºF for about 5-6 minutes. Watch very carefully and take out as soon as they become fragrant. Can be done ahead.

Whatever you do, enjoy them. Maybe wear some old clothes while you do it, though. Jan Hostyn eats her pomegranates over the sink.

The Tomato | November December 2010 15


The Grilled Cheese Sandwich

It was Janice Beaton’s grilled cheese bar* that got me thinking about grilled cheese sandwiches. the basic grilled cheese 2T

soft unsalted butter

4 slices

bread cheese, grated or sliced thin

Spread butter evenly on one sides of two slices of bread. Put half the cheese on one unbuttered slice, half on another. Add condiments, mustard, jam, bacon, pickles, etc. if using. Top each with remaining bread slices and butter the outside. Heat a 12" castiron skillet over medium-low heat. Add sandwiches to skillet and cook, flipping once with a metal spatula, until golden brown and crusty on both sides and oozing with cheese in the middle, 15-20 minutes. Transfer sandwiches to a cutting board and slice in half with a knife. Serve warm. Makes two sandwiches

*Janice Beaton Fine Cheese 1017 16 Avenue SW, Calgary www.jbfinecheese.com

What is it about the homey staple of childhood that still satisfies? Its simplicity? Its ability to riff on several variations on a theme? The fact that, really, anything goes? Any scrap of cheese in the fridge could be put to good use in a grilled sandwich. But we draw the line at Cheez Whiz. Or the notion that no matter what’s going on in the world, a grilled cheese sandwich can put things right, just like when we were kids.

The menu of the soon-to-be-opened

Welcome to the state of the grilled cheese sandwich circa 2010. It’s a good place to be.

and cheese.”

Research chef Brad Smoliak is a classicist. “My favourite? I like cheddar, with a little grainy mustard, and the bread must be buttered. It’s a simple thing — tomato soup and a grilled cheese,” he says. “How about a twist on that? Cheese soup with a tomato sandwich. I’m playing with another variation, a cheese pop tart.” Fern Janzen of Paddy’s Cheese says; “We have a couple of grilled sandwiches that we like around here: seven grain bread with a soft goat cheese such as Chevre de Bellay and crumbled bacon, or multi-grain bread with maple cheddar and roasted red peppers.”

16 November December 2010 | The Tomato

Somerville Wine and Cheese Room will have several grilled cheese sandwiches. Two combos owner Sheri Somerville is excited about:

gooey ciabatta Paul Shufelt, Century Hospitality The key to a great grilled cheese is simple. Great ingredients!

mushroom compote with goat cheese on sourdough, and sauteed pear in red wine with brie. “The bread must be crispy, fried in butter,” says Sheri. “I don’t like it to have so many things in it that you lose sight of what it is — bread

Upper Crust serves a traditional orange cheese sandwich, gooey and soft, excellent on their dark rye. Dahlia’s makes a cheese and onion panini that tastes exactly like French onion soup. Chef Daniel Costa will have a thoroughly modern grilled cheese (skewered with salad, recipe below) on his menu at the new Corso 32. Chef Paul Shufelt likes seven grain bread with oka squished in a panini grill. Let’s not forget the old school grilled cheese sandwich: bacon, orange cheese and tomato, served with ketchup and pickles as a time-honoured favourite hangover cure.

1 loaf ciabatta bread sliced 1" thick, or 4 buns 1c

one-year-old cheddar, grated

½c

tomato basil havarti, grated

½c

provolone, grated

2

tomatoes, sliced butter for brushing sea salt and fresh cracked pepper

Blend cheeses together. Slice bread and butter outsides. On the bottom bread, lay 4-5 slices of fresh tomato. Season. Smother the tomatoes with the tasty cheese blend. Place the top bread on and lightly press down. Preheat a medium fry pan to medium high heat. Place the sandwich in the heated pan and allow to brown on one side, then flip. Take the time to slowly heat the sandwich and melt the cheese; too fast and you have burnt bread and cold cheese. If necessary, you could also open face the sandwich momentarily and melt the cheese in the oven. Cut the sandwich on the bias and serve with a tasty tomato soup. For more recipes please see ‘Grilled Cheese’ on page 23


Grilled Cheese Tips Dry grana cheeses such as Parmigiano do not melt well but taste wonderful as part of a blend. Try with mild cheeses such as fontina, swiss, jack, provolone. Sharp cheeses go well with the addition of a bit of sweet. Mayonnaise can be used instead of butter in a pinch. Goat cheese doesn’t melt well on its own. Try mixing with other ingredients or other cheeses.

Flavourful Combinations Smoky Gouda with caramelized onions Young Manchego or Asiago with quince paste (Matiz quince paste is available at the Italian Centre) Aged cheddar with red onion and Dijon mustard Gorgonzola or Ermite with fig jam

LOCAL CHEESE ROARS BACK Remember Natricia Dairy or Leoni Grana? These excellent local cheesemakers fought hard for a place on our tables a decade ago. Their legacy carries on in the recently expanded Sylvan Star and two new outfits: The Cheesiry and Smoky Valley.

The Cheesiry/O Sol’ Meatos Kitscoty (eastern Alberta) Rhonda and Brian Headon raise and milk 100 East-Friesian/ Lacombe cross dairy sheep and produce three styles of sheep’s cheese: a soft, a semi-hard and a semi-soft unpasteurized pecorino, (a style of cheese from Tuscany, where Rhonda learned to make it). It’s a terrific melting cheese. Rhonda suggests having it in a grilled cheese sandwich with Prairie Mill Bakery’s white bread. Their operation is entirely hands on. Every cheese is pressed, flipped and washed by hand.

New look coming in January!

Find their cheeses at osolmeatos.com, Paddy’s Cheese, The Good Food Box, Everything Cheese and The Bothy Wine & Whisky Bar.

Smoky Valley Artisan Cheese and Dairy (Smoky Lake) This is Larry and Holly Gale’s first year making and selling, and the cheeses are amazingly good. Holly says she learned from her mother and explains the cheese making process like this: Get the milk in, pasteurize, cool, add the culture — she makes it sound so easy. They have a small goat herd, but will continue to make the cheeses with milk from the nearby St Michael’s Dairy. Available now: St Maure rolled in ash with a blotchy rind and a citrusy, nutty flavour; Valencay, pyramid-shaped also rolled in ash; a sort of creamy feta; and chevre, the soft spreadable goat cheese — all excellent with a glass of white wine. Available from smokyvalleygoatcheese.com, Everything Cheese and Paddy’s.

C A N A D I A N C U L T I VAT E D C U I S I N E FINE DINING | CATERING | PRIVATE DINING & MEETING ROOMS | ACCOMMODATION PACKAGES

10053 Jasper Avenue | Reservations 780.401.2222 | www.unionbankinn.com |

The Tomato | November December 2010 17


wine maven Peter Lehmann at Earl’s Winners of the Earl’s Wine Club/Peter Lehmann Wines contest and guests gathered in October for a festive dinner with Peter and Margaret Lehmann of Peter Lehmann Wines of the Barossa.

The perfect gift for 25 years.

Their story veers dangerously close to myth. He’s a fifth generation Barossan. He’s a member of the Order of Australia given in recognition of service to Australian wine. Generations of wine people consider him their mentor. His talents as a winemaker, and his knowledge of the Barossa vineyards, is second to none. Yet the beginning was not auspicious. Peter Lehmann started

West End 12325 – 102 Ave.

Manulife 10180 – 101 St.

a wine company because his employer at the time decided not to buy grapes that season. These Barossa growers were his friends, neighbours and colleagues. Or, as Doug Lehmann, son and managing director, puts it “This winery was started (in 1979) to protect the livelihood of his mates.” Today, we find the Lehmanns as approachable and personable as ever. They wear the decades of hard work and commitment, kudos and awards lightly. Earl’s has several Lehmann wines on offer: Fuller’s, Barossa Blonde, Futures Shiraz and the Mentor Cabernet. Guests were treated to magnums of the 1999 Mentor.

South Side 11004 – 51 Ave.

Professional Wine Education for all Levels Wine and Spirit Education Trust (WSET)

Now offering wine courses in Edmonton. Courses satisfy the needs of the novice through to the professional sommelier. (WSET) Wine and Spirit Education Trust is widely referred to as the “Gold Standard” in global wine education. Register now!

1.800.667.7288 www.winecollege.ca

18 November December 2010 | The Tomato

Top: Norman Gladstone, International Cellars, Margaret and Peter Lehmann. Above from left: Matt MacFarlane; Catherine MacFarlane (winner); Doug van Spronsen, Elyse van Spronsen (winner); Celene Montgomery; Nolan Montgomery; Tami Ushko and Jared Manz. In front: Peter and Margaret Lehmann.


event calendar wed, november 3

wed, november 24

The Skinny on Wine Tasting Bin 104, 780-436-8850

Fortified Frenzy Tasting Bin 104 780-436-8850

thu, november 4

wed, december 1

The Glenrothes Distillery Dinner Bothy Wine and Whisky Bar 780-761-1761

Liquor Select Annual Christmas Open House, Fine Wines by Liquor Select, 780-481-6868

fri, november 5

wed, december 1

Rocky Mountain Industry and Trade Tasting, rockymountainwine.com

Christmas Cheer Tasting Bin 104, 780-436-8850

fri/sat november 5-6

fri, december 10

The Rocky Mountain Wine & Food Festival, rockymountainwine.com

Terre Madre Day, slowfoodedmonton.ca

sun, november 7

sun, december 12

Sorrentino’s Truffle & Wine Dinner sorrentinos.com

Slow Food Edmonton Annual Holiday Pot Luck Brunch slowfoodedmonton.ca

tue, november 9 Battle of the Bulls, A Taste of Spain Tasting, 4th & Vine Wine Bar & Bistro, 780-497-7858

Shop where the chefs shop.

278 Cree Road in Sherwood Park • 780.449-.3710 Open Monday to Thursday 10-5 • Friday to Saturday 9-6

tue, december 14 Argentina Tasting with Andrew Pyliuk, 4th & Vine Wine Bar & Bistro, 780-497-7858

mon, nov 15 – dec 13 Wine & Sprit Education Trust (WSET). Level One (Foundation in Wine & Wine Service), winecollege.ca, 800-667-7288

mon, november 15 Wonderful World of Scotch Whisky Tasting, Aligra Wine & Spirits 780-483-1083

tue, november 16 The Wine Cellar 25th Anniversary Portfolio Tasting thewinecellar@wcellar.ca 780-488-9463

fri, november 19 A Tale of Six Tawnies Tasting Fine Wines by Liquor Select 780-481-6868

mark your calendars january/february Wine & Sprit Education Trust (WSET) Intermediate winecollege.ca

january/february French Wine School marybee@shaw.ca

january 19-23 13th Annual Sun Peaks Winter Festival of Wine, AMA Travel 1-866-667-4777

mon, february 7 Bin 104 Level Two Wine Course bin104.com

tue, november 23

march 28-april 3

South Africa Tasting with (Wild) Bill Medak, 4th & Vine Wine Bar & Bistro 780-497-7858

Vancouver Playhouse International Wine Festival playhousewinefest.com

Robert Oatley Tomato Advertisment outlined.indd 1

21/09/2010 1:28:55 PM

The Tomato | November December 2010 19


eating for two Ahi TunA Club pancetta, tomato, spinach, chipotle, aioli with watermelon-feta salad.

Plain: not our strong suit Lunch served Monday through Friday 11:30 am – 2 pm Dinner served Monday through Saturday from 5 pm

bring a Friend to lunch! Visit hardwaregrill.com, sign up for our newsletter and receive a gift certificate worth $35* towards the cost of your next lunch at hardware grill. *Valid only when two or more people are dining. Not redeemable for cash. Not valid in the month of December.

97 Street & Jasper Avenue | Reservations 780.423.0969 or hardwaregrill.com

Reinvention Who knew things were going to be this different with a baby in the mix? Sure, I was told about all the changes, but I was hoping some things would remain the same. Life before baby meant exercising daily — sometimes twice a day — running sprint intervals, lifting heavy weights, working long hours and being spontaneous and leaving town at the drop of a hat in pursuit of the next adventure. Since having my son, my workouts have changed a lot more than expected. Re-establishing my fitness turned into a reinvention — once I finally accepted that some things will never be the same. To help me realize how different life is now, I thank the universal sisterhood: my girlfriends, aunts and cousins, acquaintances, even the clerk at the store. I’ve discovered one of the unexpected joys of motherhood — sharing experiences and comparing stories, which happens often and so naturally. These interactions gave me a reflection point, a feeling of normalcy and some informative tips to take home. Here are some of my favourite tips — the ones I found most useful, most relevant and how I made them work for me. Things never go as planned Be flexible. New moms know that an impromptu nap, a blown-out diaper or a fussy baby can wreak havoc on the best-laid plans. Even if I had scheduled a workout and had packed the gym and diaper bags the night before, it rarely worked out the way I had planned it. Jogging while baby slept in the stroller became the default workout.

20 November December 2010 | The Tomato

| krysta forrest, bpe

I was always a morning exerciser but my boy has unpredictable wake up times. Bedtime on the other hand is regular and consistent. What to do? Become an evening exerciser — my best chance to hit the gym, go for a run or roll out my yoga mat and practice at home. When the original plan fails, think quick and come up with a replacement workout. I would not settle for a cancelled workout, so being creative and flexible kept the fitness ball rolling for me. The days when all goes as planned are cause for celebration. Your body will never be the same I didn’t understand the permanence of this phrase, and thought I would prove them wrong after about six months. My goal was to do the workouts I used to do — you know, get my old body back. This didn’t happen quite the way I thought it would. First of all, I was stiff. Stretching and hot baths take the edge off only briefly. When I was not recovering from even moderate intensity workouts, I started to think something was wrong. When I described how I felt to other active moms, they said “You’re still recovering. Don’t expect your body to ever be the same.” Some insisted that recovery may take a year or more (Egad!). Ok, time to regroup. After I accepted that truth, I had to refocus my training — more cross training and changing things on a daily basis. Cycling replaced some running and resistance bands replaced the really heavy lifting. I even gave Pilates a try. I found that the variety is refreshing and also easier on the body (repeated movements wear similar body


e, cpt

parts and can lead to overuse injuries). My focus was large movement patterns head to toe, little to no impact and connecting with my breath. Yoga is a perfect fit. There is an exercise out there for everyone at any stage of life — just be okay with asking questions and accepting some direction.

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When what I was used to and what I liked did not work anymore, I found a replacement. For now, I’m happy to have found what works for me and it’s exciting learning new techniques and training methods. Don’t let healthy eating go off the rails It is easy to get caught up in how busy life is — short cuts to make meals quicker and easier are endless. I was warned to be aware of the fast/frozen food trap. For my baby I choose only the best, foods rich with vitamins and minerals and appropriately timed meals. Why would I settle for anything less for myself? I was not the best at organizing meal plans, so I just filled the fridge and pantry with fresh, unprocessed foods and took it from there. To secure good habits, I set the standard high from the start, but I won’t deny it’s hard work to keep it there. Portion control: quality over quantity. I have a copy of the Canada Food Guide on my fridge. When I feel like diving into a never-ending bowl of pasta, I am quickly reminded that one cup of pasta is two servings. I’m loving my new adventures closer to home — caring for my little one and all the excitement that it brings. Change is a part of life; being open to new experiences means learning and individual growth. In figuring out how exercise is evolving for me, I am excited to explore what is around the next corner.

VISIT THE NEW ORIGINAL FARE WEBSITE FOR:

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Krysta Forrest is a well-trained fitness professional currently on maternity leave.

The Tomato | November December 2010 21


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To nominate your choice for the 2010 Frank Award: Visit the tomato.ca and download the Frank Award Nomination Form Write a letter to Frank Award 2010 The Tomato, 9833 84 Avenue Edmonton AB T6E 2G1 Nominations close January 31, 2011

feeding people | lorena d. johnson Bake day A clenched pair of hands, tired and sore from more than seven decades of labour smoothly kneads the raisin bread dough. Back and forth across a floured table… a therapy of sorts for Grandma Olsen, whose gnarled joints frequently sear with arthritic Culinarypain. Life Suddenly, the kneading stops for another kind of need. “Back rub break!” shouts one of her daughters, and Grandma joins several people in an impromptu conga line in the kitchen, each massaging the neck and back of the person in front. Another Bake Day, another memory to cherish. As they have for most of the past 38 years, my mother’s family gathers annually for the Olsen Bake Day weekend. Aunts, uncles, cousins, spouses and now the next generation of Joyce and Ole Olsen’s descendents traditionally spend the weekend closest to Remembrance Day at our own version of a Christmas cookie exchange. We bake, sample, visit, snack, play, nibble and sing. Oh, did I mention overindulge? Diets are far from everyone’s mind for three days as freshly made gingersnap cookies, butter tarts, lemon squares, chocolate peanut bars, hors d’oeuvres, rye bread, pumpkin crescents, caramel corn, crinkle cakes and sometimes even preserves like raspberry jam or rhubarb chutney pile up on nearly all free horizontal space.

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22 November December 2010 | The Tomato

Olsen grandchildren and great grandchildren quickly discover the joy of “playing” in the basement, surrounded by mounds of fresh baking. After all, none of the adults would miss a cookie. Or 10. Some recipes return year after year (like lefse, a Norwegian potato pancake served rolled up with butter and sugar) but new ones are always welcome. One year,

the ovens (yes, we often use more than one) turned out more than 30 recipes from Friday afternoon to midday Sunday. Sadly, Grandma — a former chef — isn’t here now to coach us on lefseflipping. And we no longer need to clear the bed of cooling poppycock so Grandpa can catch a nap. But we know they’re watching as the baking extravaganza they created lives on. It was a chilly November in 1972 when one of my mom’s sisters was lonely and overwhelmed with the prospect of tackling holiday baking with a young toddler at her side. So, with her can-do attitude, Grandma showed up on her doorstep armed with two other aunts, my Grandpa and ingredients for favourite recipes in tow. Soon everyone was laughing and singing and had a care package of Christmas baking to take home. Word quickly spread. Today, 30 to 40 people typically attend what’s often our only extended family get-together of the year. Whoever arrives first gets the prime counter space. Latecomers jockey for room to work, even if it means scooping cookies under the dining room table. The venue moves around Alberta, depending on who’s up for the annual challenge. It’s my turn this year. I’ll be squeezing the festivities into my 1,200 sq. ft. Edmonton bungalow and I’m sure the neighbours will be talking. But when the sweet aroma of Christmas wafts down the street, hopefully, they’ll forgive us for the parking woes this weekend. And thank goodness, I’m blessed with two ovens. Lorena D. Johnson fully expects to bribe her neighbours on Bake Day weekend. Find the Olsen family lefse recipe at thetomato.com.


Grilled Cheese Continued from page 16

cheese. butter. bread. go! Nate Box, Elm Café Nate’s tips for the perfect grilled cheese experience: Serve with Alley Kat Aprikat for brunch or afternoon snack or really late at night. Call Tree Stone to reserve your brioche. 1½ c grated Sylvan Star smoked gouda 1½ c grated Sylvan Star Gruyere ¾ c grated apricot Stilton*

butter, salted

1 large Tree Stone brioche Heat a seasoned cast iron skillet on low to med-low. Grate gouda and gruyere and mix with crumbled stilton. Slice bread into ½" thick slices; keep slices paired up. Spread softened butter on outer side of each bread slice pair. Generously sprinkle cheese in-between slices of bread. Close sandwich. Place in skillet buttered side down. Carefully watch for deep golden. Flip. Again, carefully grill until deep golden. Remove from pan and cut in to quarters or wedges. * To make Nate’s Slow Food Edmonton's People's Choice Award sandwich, omit Stilton and serve with pumpkin seed oil and a maple syrup emulsion.

black truffle with celery root salad

Heat a non-stick frying pan over medium high heat. Fry until golden and crispy, about 4 minutes. Use a butter knife as it were a spatula to flip, fry for a additional 2 minutes. Remove from pan. Using a mandolin carefully slice the celery root and black truffle as thin as possible. Toss with some arugula, lemon juice and a pinch of kosher salt and black pepper. Place a small handful of the salad on top of each grilled cheese, poke a skewer through each. Garnish with a drizzle of extra virgin olive oil and a crack of black pepper.

kate chegwin school olympics special Grade 7 students Bailey Close and Jenna Striefel from Kate Chegwin School, took top prize in Slow Food Edmonton's Grilled Cheese Olympics contemporary category with a sandwich featuring Asian pear and apple woodsmoked cheddar. 2 slices sweet smoky paprika bread (a white bread recipe with a shake of sweet Spanish paprika added) 1 T bacon spread (recipe follows) 1 piece

Asian pear, thinly sliced

1 piece applewood smoked cheddar cheese, thicker slice (about 45g) 1 slice

mozzarella (about 20g)

butter for frying sandwiches

Daniel Costa, Corso 32 2 pieces sourdough bread, thinly sliced 2 pieces Danish fontina, medium sliced

butter, room temp

1

celery root, peeled

handfl

arugula

1 fresh black truffle (substitute brined or truffle oil if unavailable) sea salt and fresh cracked pepper

lemon

extra virgin olive oil

1

skewer

Assemble sandwich with two slices of fontina. Cut sandwich into small squares. Generously butter both sides of the sandwiches.

bacon spread 6 slices K and K Foodliner bacon, minced 1 t

fennel seeds, coarsely ground

1 scant t cumin seed 2 T

Parmesan cheese

2 cloves

garlic, minced

Saute bacon for 3 to 4 minutes. Add remaining ingredients and fry until combined and flavours meld, about 5-6 more minutes. Layer the sandwich bread with the cheeses, the pear and the bacon spread. Grill. Enjoy. Mary Bailey likes Sylvan Star gouda with Dijon on caraway rye.

The Tomato | November December 2010 23


kitchen sink

| what’s new and notable

restaurant buzz Robert Simpson (Brent Lebsack’s sous chef) is the new exec chef at Madison’s in the Union Bank Inn (10053 Jasper Avenue, 780-401-2222). Robert plans to continue to focus on the best from local producers. Coming soon: a fresh new look for Madison’s Grill in January. We are excited about Edmonton’s first churrascaria (aka Brazilian steakhouse) featuring 10 cuts of meat carved tableside by Brazilian gaúchos. Grill master Oscar Lopez and Brazilian chef João Dachery are planning to open the resto in early 20l1 downtown. “We are bringing our 15foot long charcoal rotisserie from Brazil,” says Oscar, “and recruited some of our people from the top churrascarias there.” Last spring we told everybody that Bistro Praha was reopening in the Icon on 104 Street. That was not to be. However, we’ve heard that the beloved downtown eatery will be opening in the Empire Building (10072 Jasper Avenue) before Christmas. Bistro fans are thrilled and dreaming — not of sugarplums — but of cabbage soup and pork hocks. Lacombe Park Wine & Spirits’ second location (780-418-7275) will be in the Hole’s Enjoy Centre (St. Albert) along with Terra Café. General manager Julianna Mimande says the concept is wholesome, regional food. Hungarian master baker Gabor Dobos has just arrived. The new exec chef will be announced shortly, unearththepossibilities.com. Urban Diner Southside (8715 109 Street, formerly Fiore) opens in November with a few beers exclusive to the restaurant: R&B Brewery (Vancouver) and Brewdog (Scotland). Run, don’t walk, down on November 5 when they will tap two kegs of Yukon’s Lead Dog Ale. A very good source, Mike Angus, tells us that the Next Act (8224 104 Street) has undergone major renovations, has a new menu by Red Seal chef Nathan McLaughlin and a killer local and import beer list. Open daily including lunch. Zocalo (10826 95 Street, 780-428-0754) offers several new baked goods made exclusively for them. Highlights are the

24 November December 2010 | The Tomato

rich Dutch butter cake and a practically irresistible mocha almond tart. Enjoy Bernard Callebaut old-fashioned hot chocolate, the full range of espresso drinks and the new Belvoir fruit presses at their 16-foot communal harvest table. The Marc (9940 106 Street, 780-429-2828) is open with a straightforward bistro menu, no tricks — just good food. We had Alberta whitefish in a well-seasoned corn meal crust with saffron cream, a lightened-up modern style cassoulet and a well-prepared beet salad. Good wine list, short and sweet, with all the essentials and a cocktail list with a martini served in a “shockingly handsome glass.” The room has a confident air right out of the gate, no doubt borne of the experience and attitude of the owners and staff. Bravo! Are you on the hunt for deliciousness? Take part in Tourism Jasper’s Dining Season is Open promotion until December 15. Download a Jasper Dining Permit (jasperdining.ca), collect three stamps from one or more participating restaurants and you’ll be entered to win a two-night stay for two at a Mountain Park Lodges property. Participating restaurants are Andy’s Bistro, Café Mondo, Cassios Italian Restaurant, Earls in the Rockies, Evil Dave’s Grill, Fiddle River Restaurant, Jasper Brewing Company Brew Pub & Eatery, La Fiesta Restaurant and Papa George’s. Look for the Dining Season is Open decal in the window. Full details at jasperdining.ca. Check out the new menu at the Blue Chair Café (9624 76 Avenue, 780-989-2861) with several items for vegetarians and those with gluten allergies. We're looking forward to the black bean tostadas served at brunch; and we’re expecting hearty comfort food specials on Sunday night family night.

wine tastings happenings and events Join Ronnie Cox, director of The Glenrothes Distillery November 4 at the Bothy Wine and Whisky Bar for a sixcourse food and whisky pairing dinner. Call the Bothy at 780-761-1761 to reserve.

Bin 104 (5454 Calgary Trail, 780-4368850) now offers Friday Night Tastings. Meet wine company reps and taste a selection of wines from their portfolios, 3 pm to 6 pm. Or, attend one of their entertaining tastings: The Skinny on Wine, Wednesday, November 3; Fortified Frenzy, Wednesday, November 24; Christmas Cheer, Wednesday, December 1. Book at bin104.com. Aligra Wine & Spirits (West Edmonton Mall Entrance 58, 780-483-1083) offers an informative whisky tasting: Wonderful World of Scotch Whisky, Monday, November 15, 7 pm, $49.99 plus GST. 4th & Vine Wine Bar & Bistro (11358 104 Avenue, 780-497-7858) tastings: Battle of the Bulls, A Taste of Spain, November 9; South Africa with (Wild) Bill Medak, November 23; Argentina with Andrew Pyliuk, December 14. Visit 4thandvine.ca. Fine Wines by Liquor Select (8924 149 Street,780-481-6868) A Tale of Six Tawnies, $50, 7 pm Friday, November 19; Annual Christmas Open House, 6:309:30 pm, Wednesday, December 1. Love wine? Want to know and taste more? Looking for practical techniques to help you make the best choices? Wine & Sprit Education Trust (WSET) courses, taught in over 58 countries and considered the gold standard in wine education. Level One (Foundation in Wine & Wine Service) is a practical, entry-level program for those with little or no previous wine background. Mondays, November 15 to December 13; winecollege. ca, 1-800-667-7288. There’s a new wine shop in Sherwood Park called Sublime Wines (104 160 Broadway Blvd). Owners Janette and Ian Searle carry an extensive, well-chosen selection of wines, beers and spirits and possess an easy going, relaxed approach to retailing. The private room upstairs is multifunctional — lounge, fireplace, lots of bells and whistles to make it ideal for daytime business meetings as well. Upcoming tastings include; Wines of Spain, November 16; Taste of New Zealand, November 19; and Wines of Portugal December 7. Call 780-467 9463 or email info@sublime-wines.com to book.


product news

Paddy’s Cheese (12509 102 Avenue, 780-413-0367) now carries fabulous Cheesiry Pecorino in plain, herbes des Provence and garlic; $7 per 100 gram. November is Customer Appreciation Month at the Old Strathcona Farmers Market (10310 83 Avenue). There will be prizes, gift certificates from vendors and giftwrapping services, proceeds going to the Youth Emergency Shelter. Don’t miss the Christmas Market December 23. Billingsgate Fish Co. (7331 104 Street, 780-432-7851) celebrates their 103rd anniversary during Open House (Grey Cup weekend), Saturday, November 27 with fantastic specials and samples. Seasoned Solutions 2011 Loft Cooking Classes include new recipes from recent culinary tours. Call Gail at 780-437-0761 to purchase. Discover the pleasure of something handmade at the High Level Potters Christmas Pottery Sale, Saturday, November 27, Strathcona Community League (10139 87 Avenue), 10 am to 4 pm. New fresh roasted coffees at Java Jive Coffee (9929 77 Avenue, 780-432-9148) include rich and mellow Zanzibar and Kilimanjaro Dark. Now in stock is the Newco OCS 12 Cup Thermal Brewer; reaches 196-200 degrees for great tasting coffee. Try two new Monin Sweeteners; low glycemic

Dansk Gifts owner Stasia Nawrocki is well known for her tremendous skill in creating exquisite holiday tables. Learn a few of her secrets at the WOW seminars, Southgate Sears Travel Theatre: November 15 to 19, 7 pm. Cost is $10; treats included. Pre register at Dansk Gifts (335 Southgate Shopping Centre, 780434-4013) The Newget Kompany introduces Perfect Pear for the holiday season. The perfect ’pear‘ing of pistachios, roasted almonds, white chocolate, fresh rosemary and dried pear is delightful. Visit newget.ca for store and market locations. Wanting to know where to find your favourite Downtown Market farmers? Greens, Eggs and Ham moves indoors to Alberta Avenue Market (9210 118 Avenue), Thursdays, 2 to 7 pm. Irving’s Farm Fresh are at the Old Strathcona Farmers Market; The Cheesiry (and O Sol’ Meatos Charcuterie) will be available at local cheese shops Paddy’s and Everything Cheese. The excellent Smoky Lake cheesemakers Smoky Valley Goat Cheese have a brand spanking new(ish) website smokyvalleygoatcheese.com, and have started a CSA.

gastronomic travel

Gateway and Buenos Aires Tango Extravaganza features a hands-on approach to the land of both countries. At the end of your journey fly to Buenos Aires for the best leather shopping ever. Contact Patricia 1-888-437-2483, or view trip details (trip tour code QWN) at Adventures-Abroad.com. Ski or snowboard in the morning then enjoy the events of the 13th Annual Sun Peaks Winter Festival of Wine in the afternoon. AMA Travel’s package to this unique and wonderfully Canadian wine event includes a four-night stay (January 19 to 23, 2011) at the Delta Sun Peaks Resort, plus two days skiing. From $819 per person, call AMA Travel 1-866-667-4777. Seasoned Solutions offers a Culinary Tour to Chile and Argentina (March 8 to 19, 2011) exploring the culinary and the cultural. More details at seasonedsolutions.ca. New and/or interesting food and drink related news for The Kitchen Sink can be faxed to 780-433-0492.

Sip up. Slurp. Kiss the noodle. Japanese ramen & Shanghai noodle dishes enjoy! Open daily except public holidays 11 a.m. - 10 p.m.

中華美食 日式拉麵 韓風燒烤

Cally’s Teas (8608-99 Street, 780-432-3294) offers the subtle delicate taste of elderflower and apricot in the new London White Tea. In stock: European and British candy and chocolates such as Cadbury Flakes, Cadbury Curly-Wirlies (Wigwams), Monty Bojangle English boiled sweets in unique flavours such as rhubarb custard, marzipan teddy bears, Duchy chocolate covered biscuits, Simkins retro travel sweets and Saxon chocolate peppermints — all priced from $1.25 to $12. Don’t miss Cally’s Christmas Stocking Party on November 17.

index Agave Nectar and a Honey Sweetener. Beautiful holiday gift baskets and new giftware items for the coffee lover arriving daily.

Noodle Maker Restaurant By Siu To 9653 102 Ave., Edm.

no preconceptions. The best way to enjoy our wines is to allow them the opportunity to entice your senses—you are your best wine critic. The Other Red™ from raspberries. The Barb™ from rhubarb.

www.barr.ca

780-819-9463

Hungry forMore...

Peter Blattmann organizes every detail of his in-depth culinary and wine tours based on his long experience and extensive contacts. Expect another tour, filled with unique experiences and wonderful people, to ChileArgentina February 14 to 23, 2011. Visit gourmet-experience.com for testimonials and details. Patricia Marrek of Jasper Treks and Travel offers a two week tour to Chile and Argentina, February 23 to March 9, 2011. The Mendoza Wine Festival

Gourmet Kitchen • Bridal Registry Custom Window Fashions • Fine Bedding & Bath Area Rugs • Fine Table Linens

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The Tomato | November December 2010 25


Gusto!

Italia with 2008 Bussola Ca’ del Laito IGT (Ripasso style)

Each fall Barb and Susan Giacomin of Winequest Wine and

Spirit Brokers hold a party at the Italian Cultural Centre. They pour their entire portfolio of top-notch Italian wines in support of E4C’s school lunch program. It’s a sell out every

2008 Ceretto Rossana Dolcetto D’Alba DOC

year as it’s a great opportunity to nibble, taste and chat. Brava!

highlights

2009 Tenuta S. Anna Millesmato Prosecco Brut DOC

2006 Montevetrano Colli di Salerno IGT

A fine vintage bubble from the best area for Prosecco, Valdobiaddene. Drier than most with a depth of flavours, paired with frisky acidity, $32.

We are a huge fan of this cab blend and taste it every chance we get (mainly because we don’t want to open our own). Evanescent aromas of cedar, crushed roses, pepper, pencil and luscious red fruit. It’s elegant, graceful and powerful, Secretariat in a bottle, $110.

2009 Poggiobello Friulano Colli Orientali del Fruili DOC An intensely aromatic stony white with refreshing acidity. Drink this with light pastas, risotto or creamy cheeses, $30.

2008 Ceretto Rossana Dolcetto D’Alba DOC

2008 Bussola BG Valpolicella Classico Superiore DOC

Very pretty with almond flower notes, fresh and fruity. In a word: lovely. This would be the perfect wine to have after a mountain hike, $42.

2004 Gabbas Dule Cannonau di Sardegna Riserva DOC

2009 Tenuta S. Anna Millesmato Prosecco Brut DOC

It’s easy to take Valpolicella for granted as an easy-going sipper and not pay it much attention. The wines of Bussola demand notice, from the BG to the single vineyard, offering Ca’ del Laito (Ripasso style). Well made, with structure, distinctive fruity aromas and harmonious flavours with great acid to boot — all the more important with red sauce, Valpolicella range $29–$42.

2005 Marotti Campi Dondere Marche Rosso IGT A luscious and unusual blend of Petit Verdot, Cab Sauv and Montepluciano. Beautifully textured, one of the few Italian wines you could actually drink without food. But why would you? $48.

26 November December 2010 | The Tomato

2004 Gabbas Dule Cannonau di Sardegna Riserva DOC Another example of what happens when you give a grape (in this case, a grenache clone) the respect it deserves. It rewards with complexity, expression and flavour, $36.

2009 Tribuleira Moscato d’Asti DOCG Unforgettable aromas of orange blossom, apple, ripe peach and melon. Fully integrated sweetness with a bit of bubble and acidity to refresh. Gorgeous, $23.


Old Strathcona Farmers’ Market Open year round! Special Holiday Market Thursday December 23 8 am - 3 pm. Closed Dec. 25 and Jan. 1 Re-open with regular Saturday markets Jan. 8, 2011.

A touch of the farm in the heart of the city www.osfm.ca | 10310 83 Avenue | 780-439-1844 | Free Parking

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boutique products Season’s Greetings from all the staff! Open daily 10 to 10 10 to 8 Christmas Eve Closed Christmas Day

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The Tomato | November December 2010 27


AN ENTERTAINING

Christmas Menu B Y PA U L C A M P B E L L • C A F É D E VILLE turkey

stuffing

cranberry sauce

1

turkey, deboned, breasts and legs

½c

butter or turkey fat

21/3 c cranberries

and corn, with a twist — he debones the

fresh sage leaves

1

onion, small dice

½c

granulated sugar

turkey first and preps everything the day

sea salt and fresh cracked pepper

½c

celery small dice

2t

grated orange rind

½c

chopped mushrooms

½c

orange juice

2T

chopped fresh summer savory (or 2 t dried)

10 c

cubed bread

1c

dried cranberries

1c

turkey stock (approx), warmed

In a saucepan, bring cranberries, sugar, rind and juice to boil, stirring constantly. Reduce heat to medium-low and simmer for 4 to 6 minutes or until berries begin to pop. You may either puree in blender and press through fine sieve, or leave the berries whole.

Paul Campbell of Café de Ville serves a traditional turkey dinner, turkey with stuffing, mashed potatoes with gravy,

before. “I really like not spending the day cooking. I learned this technique 15 years ago and have used it every holiday since. The bonus is you can make the stock for your gravy the day before, too.” This do-ahead menu will come in handy this year as Paul is opening another Café de Ville in Sherwood Park.

deboning a turkey Place whole turkey on a cutting board. Remove the neck and gizzards, and set aside for stock. Trim any excess fat from the bird. Pull the legs apart so you can see the natural seams between the legs and the body. Cut between the leg and body following the seam until you get to the joint, flip the bird on its side and pop the leg out of the joint. Continue to follow the seam along the body until you have removed the leg. Now remove the bone from the leg. With the leg on a cutting board — skin side down — follow the bone on both sides from the end to the middle. Work your knife along the bone until it is free, leaving it attached at the foot end. Flip the leg over, holding on to the attached bone, with your knife at an angle similar to that of skinning a fish, cut through the tendons to release the bone completely. Flip the leg over again, making sure that you have removed any tendons that are left as well as any cartilage. Set the bones aside and use for stock. For the breast, cut along the keel bone following the carcass until the breast is free. Repeat on the other side, reserving the carcass for stock.

Preheat oven to 350ºF. Take two pieces of tin foil, brush them with butter, and season with salt and pepper. Place the leg on one piece of tinfoil and the breast on the other, both skin side down. Season the meat with salt, pepper, and some fresh sage. Roll the leg into a log and wrap tightly with the foil. Wrap the breast tightly in its foil, as well. Cook both in a 350ºF oven until the internal temperatures of the meat reach 165ºF (approximately 35 to 45 minutes). Cool and slice placing in an oven proof pan along with one cup of stock to keep it moist.

Turkey Stock

sea salt and fresh cracked pepper In large sauté pan, melt butter over medium heat. Fry onion, celery, mushroom and savory until softened, about seven minutes. Season with salt and pepper. In a large bowl, place bread and cranberries. Stir to combine. Add in the onion mixture. Then add warm stock, ½ cup at a time, until absorbed. Adjust seasoning.

1

turkey carcass

1

turkey neck

1

turkey gizzard

1

turkey heart

1

onion, quartered

1 stalk

celery with leaves, chopped

3 cloves

garlic

2c

3 sprigs

parsley

1/3

c

flour

1

bay leaf

1/3

c

turkey fat, reserved from stock

sea salt and fresh cracked pepper

½t

poultry seasoning

1t

fresh sage

Chop turkey neck into five or six pieces; cut gizzard and heart in half. Roast in oven along with the carcass until the bones and other turkey parts are browned. Place in a large sauce pot and add 16 cups (4 L) cold water, onion, celery, garlic, parsley, cloves, bay leaf, salt and peppercorns. Cover and bring to a boil. Skim off the foam and reduce heat to a simmer. Cook over low heat for 2 to 3 hours. Strain. Makes approx 12 cups (enough for gravy and soup later).

28 November December 2010 | The Tomato

Place in an oven safe dish and heat uncovered at 350ºF for 45 minutes. Serves 8.

turkey gravy turkey stock

sea salt and fresh cracked pepper Pour reserved fat into small sauce pot. Using a wooden spoon, stir in flour, poultry seasoning and sage. Stir over medium heat for one minute. Gradually, whisk in stock and bring to boil, constantly stirring. Reduce heat and simmer, stirring often, for 10 minutes, or until thickened. Strain into warmed gravy boat. Makes 2 cups.

whipped potatoes 2 lb

Yukon Gold potatoes

½c

milk

1

green onion

½c

sour cream

¼c

butter sea salt and fresh cracked pepper

Peel and cut potatoes into ½-inch chunks. In large pot of boiling, salted water, cover and cook potatoes until tender (approximately 15 minutes). Drain and place in a mixer with the paddle attachment. Whip on a medium speed with milk, butter and sour cream. Season with salt and pepper. Serves 8.

baked corn 1 can

cream corn (375 mL)

2

eggs, beaten

¾c

milk

2T

butter

10

graham crackers

1/8

t

salt

Mix all ingredients together and place in an oven safe dish. Bake uncovered at 350ºF for 50 to 60 minutes. Serves 8.


apple pie Pastry 2½ c

flour

¾t

ground cinnamon

1t

salt

¼t

ground nutmeg

2T

white sugar

¼t

salt

1c

unsalted butter, chilled, and cut into 1 inch pieces

2T

unsalted butter

1 T+1 t

cornstarch (corn flour)

¼-½ c ice water In a food processor, place the flour, salt and sugar and process until combined. Add the butter and process until the mixture resembles coarse meal (about 15 seconds). Pour ¼ cup water in a slow, steady stream through the feed tube until the dough just holds together when pinched. If necessary, add more water. Do not process more than 30 seconds. Turn the dough onto your work surface and gather into a ball. Divide the dough in half, flattening each half into a disk, cover with plastic wrap, and refrigerate for about one hour before using. This will chill the butter and relax the gluten in the flour. After the dough has chilled sufficiently, remove one portion of the dough from the fridge and place it on a lightly floured surface. Roll the pastry into a 12-inch circle. * To prevent the pastry from sticking to the counter and to ensure uniform thickness, keep lifting up and turning the pastry a quarter turn as you roll (always roll from the center of the pastry outwards). Fold the dough in half and gently transfer to a 9-inch pie pan. Brush off any excess flour and trim the edges of the pastry to fit the pie pan. Cover with plastic wrap and place in the refrigerator. Remove the second round of pastry and roll it into a 12-inch circle. Transfer to a parchment lined baking sheet, cover with plastic wrap, and place in the refrigerator.

filling 2½ lbs

apples (about 6 large), peeled, cored, and sliced ¼ inch thick (about 8 cups sliced)

¼c

white sugar

¼c

light brown sugar

1T

lemon juice

In a large bowl, combine the sliced apples, sugars, lemon juice, cinnamon, nutmeg and salt. Let the apples macerate at room temperature for 30 minutes to three hours. Then, place the apples and their juices in a strainer that is placed over a large bowl (to capture the juices). Let the apples drain for about 15 to 30 minutes or until you have at least ½ cup of juice. Pour in the collected juices and the 2 tablespoons (28 grams) of unsalted butter in a small saucepan and boil over medium-high heat on the stove for 6 to 7 minutes or until the liquid has reduced to about 1/3 cup and is syrupy and lightly caramelized. Meanwhile, remove the top pastry crust from the refrigerator and let it sit at room temperature for about 10 minutes so it has time to soften and become pliable. Transfer the drained apple slices to a large bowl and mix with the cornstarch (corn flour). Pour the reduced syrup over the apples and toss to combine. Pour the apples and their syrup into the chilled pie crust. Moisten the edges of the pie shell with a little water and then place the top crust over the apples. Tuck any excess pastry under the bottom crust and then crimp the edges using your fingers. Using a sharp knife, make five 2-inch (5 cm) slits from the center of the pie out towards the edge of the pie to allow the steam to escape. Cover the pie with plastic wrap and place in the refrigerator to chill the pastry while you preheat the oven. Preheat the oven to 425ºF (220ºC). Place the oven rack at the lowest level and place a baking sheet on the rack before preheating the oven. Set the pie on the pan and bake for 45 to 55 minutes or until the juices start to bubble through the slits and the apples feel tender (not mushy) when a toothpick or sharp knife is inserted through one of the slits. Remove the pie from the oven and place on a wire rack to cool for about 3 to 4 hours before cutting.

The hunT for Deliciousness is on ocToBer 15 To DeceMBer 15, 2010

‧ open in jasper ‧

GeT your DininG perMiT aT www.jasperdining.ca for your chance To win a jasper GeTaway

KITCHENAID HOLIDAY MAGIC SAVINGS EVENT Begins Nov 12th

HOT PRICE $339.99* *after $50 mail-in rebate Includes BONUS 3 qt mixer bowl, silicone mixing spatula, and a 1 year subscription to Canadian Living®

ATTACHMENTS

$169.99*

Many more Kitchen Aid rebate offers available *after $30 mail-in rebate pasta extruder – see store for details.

FREE KNIFE SHARPENING

$139.99*

*after $30 mail-in rebate

pasta roller

mixer sold separately

SAT, NOV 13th & SAT, DEC 11th

10am-2pm

NO PURCHASE NECESSARY UP TO 3 KNIVES PER CUSTOMER

Coupon required for free sharpening. Straight edges only we cannot sharpen scissors, serrated edges,cleavers or asian knives.

Hendrix Edmonton 147 14515 - 118 Avenue Edmonton, AB T: 780-454-0432 ext.204

Store Hours: Mon – Fri: 9–5 Sat: 10–5 Sun: Closed

The Tomato | November December 2010 29


according to judy

h t i w d e w e Br og od c heer.

It’ll be a blue Christmas So here we are on our sandbar in the Tasman Sea, and I’m dreaming of snow. It’s true. After seven sub-tropical Christmases, I still get homesick for winter. Before the festivities are over, I‘ll drape an armload of rosemary twigs with aluminum icicles and a string of electric ice cubes. Then I’ll hit it with sprayon snow from the Dollar Store. How sad is that?

Seasonal Favorites

Holiday Drinks Barista’s Best Gingerbread Latte Eggnog Latte Candy Cane Hot Chocolate

GE Tomato Food and Drink 4.625 x 5.75 HOLIDAY.indd 1

Starts November 12

www.goodearthcafes.com

10/4/10

Here’s how it goes: Christmas starts with the big parade in Waiuku, and King Street is chocka-block. Patrons spill out of the Kentish (licensed for beer since 1839) and tall Kiwi blokes wearing the local bloke-suit — sunglasses, sleeveless T-shirts, shorts, rubber Wellies — hold toddlers aloft so they can see. Now comes the Sunset Coast Jazz band, jingling all the way. Next, the Fire Force with their Santa; sunglasses, shorts, red-hatwith-pompom. Santa sits under a plastic palm tree with his big 7:04:31 AM yellow dog, who is wearing antlers. A boombox plays I’ll Be Home for Christmas. I feel positively weepy. Many floats later, here comes Santa Claus, or as he’s known down here, Father Christmas. He’s skinny, his beard is neatly trimmed, and he’s wearing (are you ready?) sunglasses, shorts and Wellies. Seriously, I’m going to cry. In front of the tiny perfect meat market, bangers are sizzling on a grill. A large Samoan woman with a red flower in her hair hands me a banger-in-bun. “Here you go, Luv. Meri Kirihimete”. That’s Merry Christmas in Maori, but she’s from Samoa. Is she homesick too? I’m all teary-eyed. On Christmas Eve, Father Claus arrives in the back of a red convertible, with Elvis singing Blue Christmas. Oh, sniffle. The baby, the dog and the cat get a lot of stuff. They’re ecstatic, but in the kitchen, Bing Crosbie warbles White Christmas. Breakfast is at Jayne’s, next door.

30 November December 2010 | The Tomato

| judy schultz

Local blokes know this place as Jim’s, because Jim fixes their boats, but we all know who does the cooking. The barbie is fired up, eggs are frying, and there’s a crowd on the deck, including a few people we haven’t seen since last Christmas breakfast. Kisses all around. “Christmas again,” they moan. “Where did the time go?” Everybody brings food. I contribute my Canadian Christmas cranberry marmalade. We’ve squeezed a trillion oranges from the trees down the road to go with sparkling Sauvignon Blanc, and Dougie, from down another road, has smoked two giant snappers. Somebody passes trays of mussels on the half shell, sprinkled with cilantro and minced red peppers. They look festive. I feel blue, like Elvis. We head off to Christmas lunch, an hour away. Barbecued turkey, a massive ham. Salads and sushi, trifle and Pavlova. It’s all lovely, and there’ll be golf or swimming. No toboggans, no skating? It’s just not right. Can’t stay. Christmas dinner is minutes down the road. Everybody wears Santa hats. They light up and blink, or they play Silver Bells, sung by Alvinthe-chipmunk on speed. People without hats wear fuzzy antlers. It’s required. Here, where reindeer fear to tread, antlers are in. The table is outside, under a shady awning. Christmas dinner: fish, three different roasts and every dessert known to man. Eventually I waddle to the bar, where somebody makes a special drink, “Just for Canuckies,” he says. Advocaat and lime juice with crushed ice, in a frosted glass. He asks if I know what it’s called. I don’t. “It’s a snowball! Like in Canada, eh?” Okay. Now I’ll cry. Judy recently learned four words in Maori: Meri Kirihimete Kia Koutou — Merry Christmas everybody.


Light the Season

DRESSED UP & READY TO GO!

For dinner out, a family gathering, home parties or kicking back at the cabin, Tinhorn Creek has the wines for the occasion. We are proud to show you our 100% estate-grown Varietal Series and Oldfield Series wines. Our vineyards are located on two unique and diverse south Okanagan sites: the Golden Mile and the Black Sage bench. Our ability to blend the grapes from these vineyards and capture the best characteristics of each site sets us apart. Visit our spectacular estate winery in Oliver, BC and experience for yourself. NATURALLY SOUTH OKANAGAN www.tinhorn.com

Whether it’s a treat for under the tree, fare for effortless entertaining or a traditional must-have, Sunterra has offerings for all your holiday occasions. Brighten smiles with a Sunterra Gift Card. Lighten the load with fully-prepared meals and impressive catering. And illuminate your holiday table with Canadian, grainfed Belwood Turkey, Sunterra Farms Ham and apple pie so good Grandma will think she made it herself. Wishes for a lustrous, light and delicious holiday season from the Sunterra family.

Lendrum Shopping Centre 780.434.2610 Commerce Place 780.426.3791 Sunterra Catering 780.426.3807

www.sunterramarket.com


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The Tomato - November/December 2010  

November/December 2010 edition of The Tomato.

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November/December 2010 edition of The Tomato.

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