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Formerly City Palate

The flavour of Edmonton’s food scene | July August 2013 | thetomato.ca

Scruggs family ferragosto Summer wine A Turkish barbecue


Browse &Brunch Edmonton Petroleum Club’s Outdoor Market & Brunch

Join us at the Edmonton Petroleum Club every Sunday to browse the stalls of local artisans, growers and producers.

Market Every Sunday: Jun. 9 - Sep 8, 10am - 2pm Sep. 15, 22, 29 tentative based on weather On select Sundays, stroll inside for a delicious brunch prepared with fresh market food by the Petroleum Club’s Head of Culinary Development, Doreen Prei.

Market Brunch Dates: Jun. 9, Jul. 7, Aug. 11, Sep 8 If you would like to be a market vendor, please call Charles at 780.474.3411 x205 or email gm@edpetroleumclub.com.

11110 - 108 Street 780.474.3411 www.edpetroleumclub.com

Tr a d i Ti o n d ed i c aT i o n em o T i o n H i s To ry Pa s s i o n

Q The heart and soul of our wines. Arinzano wines are available at better wine shops in Edmonton.


Contents editor Mary Bailey marybee@shaw.ca

Features

publisher BGP Publishing

copy editor Amanda LeNeve Don Retson

designer Bossanova Communications Inc.

contributing writers Peter Bailey Jan Hostyn Judy Schultz

illustration/photography Ben Chen Amanda LeLeve

design and prepress

6

A Turkish Feast

8

Cake The Scruggs Family Ferragosto

16

A Recipe for Indulgence

22

Summer Wines

25

Take it Outside

For editorial inquires, information, letters, suggestions or ideas, contact The Tomato at 780-431-1802, fax 780-428-1030, or email marybee@shaw.ca. For advertising information call 780-431-1802.

the tomato is published six times per year: January/February March/April May/June July/August September/October November/December

Ferragosto – the mid-August lunch

The tastes of Indulgence ’13

Strawberries, cherries and an angel’s kiss in spring | Mary Bailey

Tools and gadgets to make outdoor living a breeze

Departments

printer

Greenline Distribution

Marvellous cake! | Jan Hostyn

10

Bossanova Communications Inc.

distribution

Flavours of Turkey, Alberta style | Mary Bailey

5

Dish Gastronomic happenings around town

14

Books for Cooks

26

Beer Guy

28

Wine Maven

32

Kitchen Sink

36

According to Judy

A fresh crop of titles

Summer Fling | Peter Bailey

Mary Bailey

What’s new and notable

File under G | Judy Schultz

Ferragosto antipasti photo by Ben Chen.

by BGP Publishing 9833 84 Avenue Edmonton, AB T6E 2G1 780-431-1802 Subscriptions are available for $25 per year.

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The Tomato | July August 2013 3


gastronomic happenings around town | the long bar rides again The Hardware Grill’s Larry Stewart has signed on to operate the new/old bar at the Alberta Hotel, CKUA’s new home on Jasper Avenue. The city salvaged many fixtures from the historic bar in the old Alberta Hotel, demolished to make way for Canada Place in 1984. Expect a casual vibe with seating for about 100, and a menu of small plates and sharables taking advantage of the historic long bar design. “We’re creating Edmonton’s first mozzarella bar,” says Larry. Jesse Chalmers heads up the kitchen. The Tavern at the Alberta Hotel opens late July.

it’s a porchetta party! Italy is known for its porchetta stands selling the most delicious roast pork in a bun. Now Sorrentino’s brings porchetta to its patios this summer; savoury Alberta pork rolled and stuffed with fresh herbs, lemon and toasted fennel seeds, roasted, sliced, plated and served with roasted rosemary garlic potatoes and a glass of wine. And it’s only $20! The Porchetta Parties are at the Sorrentino’s west, south, St. Albert and downtown locations on July 25 and August 29. Bistecca’s (2345 111 street, 780-439-7335) party is three courses including dessert for $39. Want a sneak preview? Visit the Sorrentinos café at 107 Avenue and 109 street on Porchetta Fridays from noon until 2pm, and enjoy a sandwich for $7.50.

the new old world Andreas Bender and Camilla Rossi Chauvenet, two up and coming winemakers from Germany’s Mosel and Italy’s Veneto region visited Edmonton in late June. Wine lovers enjoyed their wines at tastings at Petrolia Liquor store, Kitchen, and a dinner at Bistecca. They represent the new breed of old world winemakers, using classic grape varieties and techniques to craft thoroughly modern wines. Find the wines at better wine shops and restaurants.

Photos from top: Jesse Chalmers (L) and Larry Stewart in the resurrected Alberta Hotel; Sorrentino’s Porchetta party; previous GMP winner Nathan Bye; winemakers Andreas Bender and Camilla Rossi Chauvenet.

dish

browse and brunch The Edmonton Petroleum Club (11110-108 Street) offers a new brunch for members and non-members alike featuring their new kitchen crew on July 7, August 11 and September 8. It’s quite the spread, three courses or a buffet featuring Alberta cheeses and dishes chef Doreen Prei, Petroleum Club’s head of culinary development, preps according to what’s in season at their new Sunday Artisan Food Market. Have brunch, then browse the market for tasty baked goods from Boulangerie Treestone, fruit from Steve and Dan’s and charcuterie from K&K Foodliner, along with coffee, live entertainment and free parking. As well, the club will stock a booth with signature prepared foods to go. Non-member tickets $35; members $30. Call Jennifer, 780-474-3411 or email reception@edpetroleumclub.com for reservations. The artisan food market runs every Sunday from 10-2 pm. Other vendors include Mojo Jojo Pickles, Rose Ridge Farms, Epicure Selections, Fruits of Sherbrooke, Kettle Corn & Concessions, Choco-licious, Sangudo Growers Association, Cookie Love, Violet Chocolate Company, Ron's Produce Plus, The Newget Kompany, Lemon Daisy Cupcake Company, Cravings Artisan Gelato, and, in September, lamb from Tangle Ridge Farms in Thorsby. There’s always room for more vendors. If you make a delicious food product, call Charles at 780-474-3411 or visit edmontonpetroleumclub.com.

going for gold Mark your calendars for hot Gold Medal Plates competition on Thursday, October 24. Competing chefs: Paul Campbell, Café de Ville; Shane Chartrand, Vons Steak House and Oyster Bar; Andrew Fung, XIX Nineteen; Jesse Morrison-Gauthier, The Common; Doreen Prei, Edmonton Petroleum Club; Mike Scorgie, Woodwork; Paul Shufelt, Century Hospitality Group; Robert Simpson, Blackhawk Golf Club; Alex Sneazwell, The Manor Casual Bistro; Jan Trittenbach, Packrat Louie. Former Edmonton champs Jan Trittenbach and Andrew Fung are back, along with newbies Alex Sneazwell, Mike Scorgie, Jesse Morrison-Gauthier, and Doreen Prei (Doreen’s former exec chef Dave Omar competed for Zinc). Jesse knows what it takes to win; he was on chef Trittenbach’s support team in 2011. The lineup this year reflects the increasing importance of smaller independent, non-hotel restaurants in Edmonton’s culinary scene. Edmonton has a new judge as well, Brad Smoliak of Kitchen by Brad, joining chefs Chris Wood and Clayton Folkers along with Lianne Faulder, Gail Hall, senior judge Mary Bailey and head Gold Medal Plates judge James Chatto. Our 2012 gold medalist Nathin Bye joins the judging panel this year. Net proceeds from Gold Medal Plates go to the Canadian Olympic Foundation. Over $7.4 million has been raised to date. Contact edmonton@goldmedalplates.com for tickets. The Tomato | July August 2013 5


A Turkish Feast ~ Mary Bailey ~

Turkish flavours, Alberta style.

6 July JulyAugust August2013 2013 || The TheTomato Tomato


I spent a few weeks in Turkey this spring, a wonderful introduction to this agricultural paradise. We ate what was in season: truckloads of watermelon and canteloupe; just-picked tomatoes, cucumbers and onions, peppers of every colour, size and shape imaginable; herbs, grown wild and sold by rural women in the market in large rush baskets; grilled fish and meatballs; mild white cheeses (all called feta), thick and delicious yogurt. How to bring it home? Many Turkish dishes are cooked quickly over an open fire, which easily translates to our barbecue culture. This menu interprets delicious Turkish flavours and methods of preparation using foods now in season here. Start with a selection of mezes: dips and spreads; an assortment of olives; hummus, your own, or one from a farmers’ market (we love Happy Planet’s); and a tasty eggplant dip from Sofra Restaurant. Continue with fresh salads, grilled chicken or fish and, of course, meatballs made with Alberta lamb. Everything can be cooked on the grill, making kitchen cleanup a snap. End with fresh fruit, Turkish coffee or tea and Raki, the national anisebased spirit, for a truly Turkish feast.

eggplant dip (patlican ezme) Recipe courtesy Chandra and Yuksel Gultekin of the Sofra Restaurant. “If you wish to prepare the eggplant at home, you can do so on a grill or you can broil it in the oven,” says Yuksel. “The signature smoky taste of this appetizer can only be achieved by grilling the vegetable or by purchasing grilled eggplant. Jars of grilled eggplant can be purchased at Greek markets like Omonia Foods or Lebanese markets like Elsafadi Brothers.” 2 c

Balkan yogurt

1 medium eggplant

olive oil

8 cloves

garlic, peeled and crushed

salt and pepper

Slice eggplant widthwise and toss in olive oil. Lay flat on grill (or on broiler pan) and cook for 3 minutes on each side. Mash in a bowl (leave the eggplant peel on). If using already prepared grilled eggplant, mash one cup in a bowl. Add yogurt to eggplant and stir until fully blended. Mix garlic into yogurt mixture. The amount of garlic can be increased or decreased to your taste, of course. Add salt and pepper to your liking. This dip can be eaten right away or can be refrigerated in advance. Yields enough dip for 6-8 people.

turkish tomato salad with pomegranate and walnuts Walnut trees and pomegranate groves in glorious scarlet bloom blanketed hillsides all over southwestern Turkey. The two flavours are found in both sweet and savoury dishes and in everyday salads. No two salads were exactly alike — always with tomatoes, cucumbers and white onion, in a small dice, or in large chunks, including lots of fresh herbs such as dill, parsley and wild thyme, and occasionally lettuce, simply dressed with lemon and oil. Keep tomatoes on the counter, not in the refrigerator. A salad like this allows home-grown heirloom or farmers market tomatoes like those from Gull Valley Greenhouses or Sundog Farm to shine. Otherwise buy romas or cherry tomatoes for the best flavour. squeeze fresh lemon juice (approx 1 T) 3 T

extra virgin olive oil*

1 t

pomegranate molasses**

sea salt and fresh-cracked pepper 3-4 large tomatoes or equivalent 1 large

cucumber

½

white onion

2-3 leaves fresh thyme, finely chopped fresh leafy herbs such as parsley, dill, and tarragon ½ c

walnuts, lightly toasted

Squeeze lemon juice in the bottom of a big bowl and whisk in oil until emulsified. Drizzle in pomegranate molasses and thyme. Season to taste. Chop tomatoes, cucumbers and onion into a medium dice and add to the

bowl. Snip in fresh herbs and toss gently. Adjust seasoning, then mound on a platter and toss walnuts over. Serves 4. *Turkish extra virgin olive oils are softer and less assertive in flavour than Italian, Spanish or Greek oils, perhaps because most are made when the olives are black and fully ripe. Nefiss is an excellent brand, widely available in Edmonton. **Find pomegranate molasses at the Italian Centre Shops.

yogurt-marinated grilled chicken (tavuk izgara) The yogurt marinade tenderizes the chicken, adds flavour and helps keep it moist on the grill. 1 cut-up chicken or the equivalent in thighs or breasts 1 T

cumin seed, toasted

2 T dried Aleppo pepper* (if not available, substitute equal amounts dried crushed red pepper and Hungarian sweet paprika) 2 T

sea salt

2 t fresh-cracked black pepper (or to taste) squeeze

½ small lemon

2 T

extra-virgin olive oil

2 cloves garlic, chopped fine (or to taste, more or less) ¼ small onion, chopped fine 1 small container plain Greek-style yogurt (or pour regular yogurt into cheesecloth suspended over a bowl for an hour or two to lose some of the extra liquid)

marinade and turning the meat occasionally. Heat grill to medium/low (325ºF) or prep charcoal. When you can hold the palm of your hand over the grill for at least 6 seconds, and the coals have a thick layer of ash, it’s ready. Take chicken pieces out of the yogurt mixture giving each a little shake to get rid of extra moisture. Place on the grill and cook slowly, moving the chicken around to ensure even browning (the exact opposite of cooking a steak). The chicken is done when it is firm to the touch and golden brown on the outside, about 30 minutes. Season, toss over some chopped parsley and lemon juice, pile on a platter and eat hot or cold. *Dried Aleppo pepper has a fruity flavour with just a bit of warmth. Find in the spice section, brand name Cappadokka, at the Anatolia Food Market.

lamb meatballs (kofte) Kofte are highly-seasoned meatballs (lamb, beef or even bulghur) made in rounds, ovals, cigar-shapes, or formed around a skewer and grilled. The skewer presentation looks fantastic and is easy to do. Cooked this way the kofte fits into a pide (Turkish style pita, fluffy with a smattering of nigella seed) or flatbread easily. They are often presented with charred halves of onions and long, thin green peppers (which looked a bit like a smaller Anaheim pepper) also grilled. If you can’t find pide, Happy Camel makes a soft pita which can substitute in a pinch. Four Whistle Farm at the Old Strathcona Farmers’ Market is a good source for high-quality lamb — often fresh, not frozen. 1 pkg

ground lamb (about 2 lbs)

lemon wedges and chopped parsley for garnish

1 T toasted cumin seed, smashed

In a mortar and pestle, crush toasted cumin, dried peppers, salt and pepper. Place spice mix in a large bowl big enough to hold all the chicken. Mix in lemon, oil, garlic, onion and yogurt, stirring until well-combined. Drop in the chicken and, using your hands, make sure that the yogurt mixture is massaged into the chicken thoroughly. Let sit for at least two hours or overnight in the refrigerator, keeping the chicken covered in yogurt

2 T dried Aleppo pepper (or a mixture of cayenne and Hungarian paprika) ½ c

minced fresh mint

½ c

minced parsley

¼ c

onion, coarsely grated

2 cloves

garlic, minced (or to taste)

sea salt and fresh-cracked black pepper Please see “Turkey” on page 29.

The Tomato | July August 2013 7


C•a•k•e • Jan Hostyn •

i’ll never forget that cake

impossibly tall, elegantly iced and simply yet strikingly decorated. I don’t remember what kind it was exactly; my five-year-old self probably didn’t even register that fact at the time. It didn’t matter, though. What did matter was that it was incredibly glorious, marvelouslly magnificent and not for my consumption. When that very cake vanished into thin air from an apartment building lobby, well, that only served to bump up its already hefty memorability. Yes, someone other than the intended recipient of my mother’s elaborate creation actually made off with it, cake pedestal and all. And even more peculiar — no one saw a thing. Not my mother, who set it down on a table for mere minutes while she went off to buzz the intended recipient’s apartment (never leaving the lobby and the vicinity of the cake); not any of her rather busy and nosy five kids (all under the age of seven); not any of the other people milling around the definitely-notdeserted lobby; not a single soul. Someone actually stole the cake.

I hope that that particular someone thoroughly enjoyed every last morsel of that cake, and I definitely hope they remember it even more vividly than I do. Even without setting off on that little adventure, though, that cake would have been memorable. But it’s not just that cake — it’s cakes in general. They have to be the most spectacular-looking, attention-grabbing entities that flour, butter, sugar and eggs have ever joined forces to create. It’s as if, buried somewhere inside those tender little crumbs of theirs, there’s a voice screaming, “Look at me, look at me!” Not all cakes, mind you. Snack cakes — the coffee, crumb and spice cakes of the world — don’t really qualify. You know, the ones you whip up at the last minute to send blasts of buttery goodness floating throughout your home and appease ravenous appetites with. They have their place (and a multitude of merits that I could expound upon), but they can’t really be classified as visually stunning. Delicious, definitely, but… I’m talking about the truly spectacular cakes: layer and chiffon cakes that are blessed with any number of creamy fillings and are copiously coated with a sinfully thick layer of frosting-like goodness. And even though that sort of cake doesn’t technically need any sort of adornment to make a statement, a sprinkle of chocolate shavings here or a drizzle of caramel there certainly doesn’t hurt. It’s the kind of cake that deserves a pedestal but garners attention even without; the kind that begs to be devoured immediately and then torments you because you can’t; the

8 July August 2013 | The Tomato

kind that’s destined to be as utterly delicious as it is stunning (if it came out of my mom’s kitchen, anyway). And it’s the kind that has the power to weave a spell, to mesmerize. When I was a kid, my mom could generate a buzz of excitement simply by digging into the cupboard and hauling out certain cake pans. We knew immediately that she was about to embark on one of her “special” cake-baking missions. The hopping and bouncing and impatience began. You might as well have injected us with sugar right then and there. Watching her concoct the various pieces and then compose the final product was always enthralling, but to come home and stumble upon a masterpiece, well, that was the pinnacle of excitement, especially if its ultimate destination was my stomach. I could spend an inordinate amount of time just sitting there and staring at it, anticipating. And even though it took an excruciating amount of willpower not to dip a finger into the icing, I knew from experience that my mom would instantly spot the tiniest missing anything. The waiting was part of the thrill, though. And when the time came to finally plunge a knife through that dazzling exterior, no one let out a peep. We all held our breath in anticipation, craning our necks to get a peek as that first piece of cake was gently lifted out. The whole affair was cloaked in an aura of mystery — who knew what hidden treasures we would find inside? Birthdays, anniversaries, family get-togethers, Halloween, good report cards, the start of summer vacation, the end of summer vacation, Sundays… they all warranted majestic, magnificent, marvellous cakes. Now, imagine a birthday pie (if you’re anyone other than my husband, that is). It may well turn out to be the yummiest pie ever, but it would be completely devoid of any panache or poise, and the whole “ahhhh” factor would simply be nonexistent. Frankly, if someone plunked a pie down in front of me to celebrate a special something, I would feel decidedly not special.

Where to buy a fabulous cake Cake Couture

15008 87 Avenue, 780-443-4083, cakecouture-edibleart.ca Founder Annie Dam created an artisan cake shop where all your dreams of frothy confection can come true.

The Art of Cake 780-485-5517, theartofcake.ca

Gloria Bednarz and Guenter Hess create edible works of art for every occasion including none at all. No storefront, but you can pick up a lovely fruit-topped cake at their booth at the City Market on 104 street on Saturdays.

Duchess Bake Shop

And even though we’re still stuck smack-dab in the middle of the whole annoying bow-down-and-worshipanything-cupcake-like phenomenon, THEY ARE NOT REAL CAKES. Oh, I’ll admit they’re cute. Adorable? Sure. But spectacular? Definitely not. How can anything that little be deemed spectacular? A cake is that rare creature full of mystery, intrigue and oomph galore. It screams to be noticed — sometimes a bit too loudly. Can you imagine anyone being so smitten by a cupcake that they’d even be the teeniest bit tempted to walk off with it?

10720 124 Street, 780-488-4999, duchessbakeshop.com Among the fine French pastry on offer at this popular spot are three stellar cakes: fluffy lemon meringue, the Duke, intense chocolate accented with salted caramel and whipped ganache, and the pistachio green-domed Duchess.

Jan Hostyn has mastered the art of silencing cakes — she simply devours them.


how to make a spectacular cake coconut rum pineapple layer cake Adapted from Gourmet Magazine. Several years ago I wanted to make a special dessert for a friend’s brunch and this cake looked suitably overthe-top. It is — four fabulous layers of airy rum and vanilla-scented cake layered with pineapple and lime-infused coconut buttercream. This creation is well worth the time and effort, but it’s not like whipping up a pan of brownies before dinner; it does take the better part of a day to prepare. Or, make it over two. Cake-making perhaps is a bit of a lost art, and, not being a regular baker, I appreciated the detailed and straightforward method. Don’t stint on the rum quality. For the smoothest hint of rum flavour (not an all-out boozy attack) use a high-quality island rum such as Mount Gay or Appletons. — Ed.

pineapple filling 1 large (20-ounce) can crushed pineapple, including juice 2 T

demerara sugar

1 T

cornstarch

1 t

fresh lime juice

Stir together filling ingredients in a heavy saucepan until cornstarch is dissolved. Bring to a boil, stirring constantly. Then simmer, continue stirring for 3 minutes and take off heat. Cool filling completely, stirring occasionally.

rum syrup c

water

¼ c

sugar

3 T

light rum

2/3

Bring water and sugar to a boil in a small heavy saucepan, stirring until sugar is dissolved. Remove from heat and stir in rum. Transfer to a small bowl and chill until ready to use.

coconut buttercream

cakes 1 c

cake flour

½ t

salt

6 large

eggs at room temperature

1 c

sugar

2 t

vanilla

6 T (¾ stick) unsalted butter, melted and cooled

This is a good recipe for an old-fashioned buttercream icing. It requires a candy thermometer and all of your attention while making. Buttercream can be made up to a week ahead and chilled, covered. Bring to room temperature on the counter, and beat with an electric mixer before using. Makes about 4¼ cups (enough to frost an 8-inch layer cake).

Preheat oven to 350°F. Grease and flour two round cake tins (8-inch) and place parchment in the bottom.

4 large egg whites at room temperature ½ t

salt

Sift flour with salt into a bowl. Heat eggs and sugar in a large metal bowl set over a pot of simmering water, gently whisking constantly, until lukewarm. Remove bowl from heat and add vanilla, then beat with an electric mixer at medium-high speed until thick and pale and tripled in volume (about 5 minutes with a standing mixer or 10 minutes with a hand held). Sift flour and salt over eggs in 2 batches, folding gently but thoroughly after each batch. Fold in melted butter until combined. Divide batter evenly between cake pans, smoothing tops.

1¼ c

sugar

½ c

water

½ t

fresh lime juice

Bake cakes in middle of oven until a tester comes out clean and cakes are golden, about 15 minutes. Cool in pans on racks for 5 minutes, then invert onto racks to cool completely.

1½ c (3 sticks) unsalted butter, cut into tablespoon-sized chunks, softened 1½ t

coconut extract

Combine egg whites and salt in bowl of a standing electric mixer. Stir together sugar and water in a small heavy saucepan and bring to a boil over moderately high heat, washing down the side of pan with a pastry brush dipped in cold water. Stir until sugar is dissolved. When the syrup reaches a boil, put thermometer into the sugar syrup and monitor while beating the whites. Start beating

whites with electric mixer at mediumhigh speed. Once whites are frothy, add lime juice and beat at medium speed until they just hold soft peaks. Do not beat again until sugar syrup is ready. Continue boiling sugar syrup, without stirring, until it reaches soft-ball stage (238-242°F). Immediately remove from heat. Slowly pour hot syrup in a thin stream down side of bowl into egg whites, beating constantly at high speed. Beat meringue, scraping down bowl with a rubber spatula, until meringue is cool to the touch, about 6 minutes. Make sure the meringue is cool before the next step.

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Once the meringue is cool, gradually add butter, one piece at a time, beating well, at medium speed, after each addition until incorporated. Chill bowl in an ice water bath if the mixture looks soupy. Continue beating until buttercream is smooth. Mixture may look curdled before all the butter is added, but will come back together before beating is finished. Add coconut extract and beat 1 minute more.

to assemble Have ready the buttercream, some lime zest and 3½ c fresh coconut shavings or 22/3 c sweetened flaked coconut. Rim edges of cakes if necessary to make flat, and cut each horizontally in half with a long serrated knife to form a total of four thin layers. Put one cake layer cut side up on a cake plate and brush top with rum syrup, then spread half of the pineapple filling over it. Top with another cake layer and brush with syrup, then spread with about 2/3 cup butter cream. Top with a third cake layer and brush with syrup, then spread remaining pineapple over it. Top with the last layer, cut side down, and brush with remaining syrup. Frost sides and top of cake with the rest of the buttercream, then coat with coconut. Dust with fresh lime zest right before serving. If the buttercream gets too soft and sticky to spread, put in the refrigerator for 10 minutes to firm up. Serves 8-16 people.

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The Tomato | July August 2013 9


THE

SCRUGGS FAMILy

FERRAGOSTO

10 July August 2013 | The Tomato


Italy shuts down around August 15 What’s the occasion? Ferragosto, the mid-August holiday. It’s the best kind of holiday, no gifts required, no obligatory family visits, you don’t even have to go to church.

“The primi piatti was homemade pasta stuffed with lobster and ricotta, the most incredible thing; so delicate, it was a highlight.

Candace Scruggs discovered Ferragosto while on holiday in Tuscany.

“Then we had oven-roasted pork belly with sage and rosemary grilled trout, arugula salad. Griffin made the fresh mozzarella; his hands were immersed in water for so many hours.

“We lived in Germany from 2006-2009. One summer we visited Italy, staying at an agriturismo in Caffagio near San Gimignano.

“We had 18 people. Caitlin and I set up the rooftop deck for aperitivo — prosecco and charcuterie, olives, artichoke hearts, a nice selection of goodies.

“The owners told us that the restaurants nearby would be closed on August 15, but they were having a ferragosto for their guests. ‘Would we like to come?‘

“After the last guest leaves, we end up on the roof. One night we sat out until 4 or 5 in the morning wrapped in blankets, and chatted about the evening.

“They roasted a pig, had pasta, we sat at a big long table under the stars. It was magical. We have never forgotten it.

“We’ll miss Griffin this year, he is crewing on a sailboat. Ron and Connor (day sous at Joey’s) will do the honours.”

What most people do is go to the beach and have a very nice lunch.

“A few years later my husband Russ said ‘Why don’t we do a ferragosto? Invite a bunch of people, cook some Italian food.’ “The first year was pretty basic. But last year, Griffin, our oldest son who is also a chef, took it upon himself to make the menu. He recruited our son-in-law Ron Bolanos, also a chef, and started to plan months ahead. They made duck prosciutto, mortadella, rabbit pate, salt-cured fish.

To get in the spirit of the relaxing holiday, watch Gianni Di Gregorio’s comedy Pranzo di Ferragosto (Mid-August Lunch). Ferragosto doesn’t have to mean weeks of preparation and home-made charcuterie. But in case you would like to follow the Scruggs’ family example, Ron and Griffin have provided the recipes for rabbit pâté and the homemade pasta in lobster broth.

Continued next page

Ferragosto Events In Italy around August 15

Palio del Mare Alassio, Liguria August 15


Small boats light up the sea with candles. Then there are fireworks.

Castelli, Abruzzo August 15

This town, famous for its ceramics, throws the rejects from a great height on Ferragosto.

Facing page: the Scruggs family, from left to right are Griffin, Candace, Russ and Connor Scruggs, Caitlin Bolanos (nee Scruggs) and Ron Bolanos. This page: dinner guests Nicole Duke (R) Rylea Wissink. Photos by Ben Chen.

The Tomato | July August 2013 11


FERRAGOSTO

recIpes All recipes by Ron Bolanos and Griffin Scruggs

rabbit pâté 2 rabbits, cut into 8 pieces (you can ask the butcher to do this for you) 1 piece pork belly, (about 500 g) skinless and diced into 1 inch cubes 4 bay leaves, torn in half 2 bulbs garlic, cut in half horizontally (axis) 5 sprigs fresh thyme + ½ t finely chopped thyme 6 sprigs fresh rosemary + ½ t finely chopped rosemary 2 cloves

garlic

salt and freshly-ground black pepper

ground mace c

duck fat

½ c

Prosecco

½ t

cayenne

1 T

lemon juice

4/5

2 T balsamic vinegar (reduced by half ) 4 T sundried tomato, finely chopped 4 T pine nuts, lightly toasted Preheat oven to 400ºF.

Photos from top: Caitlin tastes; Ron ties birds; Griffin slices; Ron checks the roast pork; Griffin plates; Ron and Griffin with antipasti, rabbit pâté and duck prosciutto.

Brown the pork belly in batches in a large frying pan over medium high heat. Transfer to a deep baking dish. Reserve about a tablespoon of the rendered fat in the pan. Brown the rabbit pieces in batches to get a nice colouring. Transfer to the same dish, which should be large enough to hold all the meat in a single layer. Generously season with salt and pepper and tuck in whole sprigs of thyme and rosemary, torn bay leaves, and garlic bulbs and cloves. Sprinkle in a good pinch of mace as well. Deglaze the pan with the prosecco: pour in the wine, turn up the heat and let it bubble while you scrape up any bits of caramelized meat from the pan. Pour the liquid over the meat in the baking dish. Add the

12 July August 2013 | The Tomato

rendered duck fat and a glass of water. The meat should be almost covered. Roast in the hot oven for about 30 minutes. Turn heat down to 300ºF and continue cooking for 2½ hours until the meat is fork tender and easily pulls away from the bones. Remove from the oven and let cool slightly before removing the rabbit meat from the bones. Shred all the meat and place in a large bowl. Season with more pepper, more mace, chopped thyme, chopped rosemary, cayenne, lemon juice and balsamic reduction. Set aside. Pour the cooking liquid through a fine sieve into a jug and wait for the fat to separate before skimming it off. Reserve. Place both meats in an upright mixer with a paddle attachment. Mix on medium speed until it breaks down to very fine shreds. Turn the speed to low and pour reserved stock into the mixture — just enough to moisten — and then add the duck fat to bind. Or, mix the pork, rabbit meat and duck fat together by hand. Pour skimmed juices over the shredded meat mixture. Add 1-2 tablespoons of the reserved fat, and give the whole thing a really good mix. Fold in sundried tomato and pine nuts. Mixture can be packed into ceramic terrine mould, making sure that there are no air pockets. Serve at room temperature with good-quality crusty bread and balsamic picked onions.


lobster ricotta tortelloni en brodo with pickled fennel and tarragon oil Several steps to make the clear stock, more steps to make the pasta. Is it worth it? Yes! The work can be spread over a couple of days and a couple of people. The pasta could be a group project. Ron and Griffin provide a simplified method to make a half-moon shape, familiar to anyone who has made pyrohy or potstickers; but if you know how to make the bishop’s cap-shaped tortelloni (large tortellini), do that, or make ravioli.

ice-clarified lobster stock You will need a large stockpot, a fine sieve, cheesecloth and lots of clean tea towels. If you have metal inserts, use them. Otherwise, colander and bowls will work. The whole point of the procedure is to create an absolutely clear liquid with a golden-yellow glow that tastes like the essence of lobster. 2 large

lobsters

2 medium yellow onions, julienne (chopped in long pieces) 2

carrots, sliced

2

celery ribs, sliced

1 c

dry white wine

2 t

black peppercorns

pickled fennel

2 cloves

garlic, crushed

½ c

white wine vinegar

3

bay leaves

1 c

water

1 bunch

Italian parsley

1 T

sugar

olive oil

1½ t

kosher salt

fresh water

½ c

shaved fennel

tomalley

Put wine, water, sugar, salt in a small pot and bring to a boil. As pickling liquid comes to a boil add the fennel. Take off heat and allow to cool completely. Store in the fridge for up to a week.

tarragon oil ½ c

extra virgin olive oil

handful

fresh, whole tarragon

In a small stainless steel bowl, add oil and tarragon. Place bowl over a small pot holding simmering water (or put in a double boiler). Gently heat oil to extract the oils from tarragon (no higher than 22ºC). Remove from heat and store in a glass jar for 2 days at room temperature to infuse. Take out tarragon and store oil, covered, for a few days.

ice bath (cold water and ice)

Bring a pot of salted water to a simmer. Place lobsters in pot for 7 minutes (be sure they are fully emerged). Remove and shock in an ice bath to stop cooking. Once cool, take the lobsters apart reserving the shells, tomalley and the meat (you won’t need the lobster meat until it’s time to make the pasta).

Remove from heat and add parsley and steep for 7 minutes. Strain stock through a fine sieve, return to pot and reduce by half (stock should be quite strong; if not, reduce further). Cool stock slightly, then whisk in tomalley (the liquid will turn a forest green colour). Pour into metal insert (or a bowl) and place in freezer overnight. Once fully frozen, pop out and wrap tightly in cheesecloth (about 3 layers for a clear filtration). Place the wrapped stock in the perforated insert over the metal insert (or sieve over a bowl). Place in the fridge and allow to drain through the cheese cloth completely. Slowly bring the drained liquid to a simmer. The proteins in the tomalley will begin to coagulate pulling all other bits and solids together and rising to the top creating a raft, causing the liquid to further clarify. Carefully strain off the raft through cheese cloth and a fine sieve. The result? A brilliantly clear, golden-colored stock. Season if necessary then store in refrigerator, or freeze for use later. Please see “Ferragosto” on page 15

On medium high heat, add the shells to a thickbottomed stockpot with olive oil (to coat). Sweat the shells in pan until it becomes aromatic. Add wine and reduce until the pot is nearly dry (eu’sec). Add a cup of water and reduce and repeat once more. Top up pot with water. Add peppercorns and bay leaves. Bring to a boil and return to a simmer for 20 minutes. Add onions, carrots, celery, garlic and simmer for 30 minutes.

The Tomato | July August 2013 13


books for cooks | Canadian Whisky: The Portable Expert, Davin de Kergommeaux McClelland & Stewart, $25 Whisky aficionado Davin de Kergommeaux’s book tells the story of Canada’s pioneer spirit through impeccably researched history, tasting notes from an expert palate, and reports on the new craft whisky scene. It continues to rack up awards: International Association of Culinary Professionals (IACP) Best Wine, Beer, or Spirits Book of 2012 and a third prize Gourmand World Cookbook Award, spirits category. Whisky lovers will find this book essential.

Taste: Seasonal Dishes from a Prairie Table, CJ Katz CPRC Press, $30 Regina-based food writer and Gold Medal Plates judge CJ Katz makes a delicious case for adding Prairie-grown ingredients to our repertoire, such as more flax, saskatoon berries, mustard and lentils. Enjoy more than 120 recipes, including a delicious chocolate, prairie cherry and saskatoon berry semifreddo, illustrated by 160 mouthwatering photos. Winner of the 2013 World Gourmand Cookbook Award for Best First Cookbook.

The Salt Book, Fritz Gubler and David Glynn with Dr. Russell Keast Whitecap, $30 No pantry is immune. The exquisite little jars of crystals. The blue, the red and the pink, and the unappetizing-looking but oh so delicious, and expensive, grey salt. The Welsh, the Himalayan, the Hawaiian, the French and the Italian, not to mention the forlorn box of Windsor tucked in the back. What to do with all the salts? They seemed like such a good idea at the time. The Salt Book is a good start. With 200 recipes, salt lore, lots of how-to and when to use information, you’ll be through that salt inventory in no time.

Everyday Cooking for Kids Jennifer Low, Whitecap, $30 We were big fans of Jennifer Low when she was food editor of Canadian House and Home, loving her fresh approach to flavour and technique. Her second cookbook for kids shares her no-nonsense approach. It’s a book that gets kids in the kitchen without the danger — no sharp objects, nothing with a motor, or cooked on a stovetop. Use this book to entertain on rainy afternoons this summer while helping your kids learn to make tasty family food by hand. A portion of proceeds goes to Big Brothers Big Sisters of Canada who use the book in their teen mentors program. 14 July August 2013 | The Tomato

mary bailey


ferragosto Continued from page 13

fresh ricotta and lobster pasta Ron and Griffin made their own ricotta, but you could use store bought. 2 c

ricotta

2 cloves

garlic, minced

1

onion, small dice

½ bulb

fennel, small dice

juice and zest of 1 lemon

1 T

butter

½ c

dry white wine

¼ c

heavy cream

reserved lobster meat

1 T

chopped tarragon

salt and pepper

Sweat onions, fennel and garlic in butter on medium-low heat. Add wine and reduce until onions are soft. Allow to cool. Place in a bowl, add ricotta and mix well. Fold in lobster, cream and tarragon. Season to taste. Reserve.

fresh pasta 8 yolks 1

egg white

2 c

all-purpose flour, as needed

2 t

extra virgin olive oil

1 t

water

pinch salt

Mound the flour on the counter and form a well in the centre. In a separate bowl, whisk the eggs, oil, water and salt, and pour mixture into the well. With a fork swirl the egg/mixture in, a bit of flour at a time (too much at a time and your dough could become lumpy) keeping the egg mixture in the well. As the dough starts to form, start to knead with your hands. Slowly knead in more flour until you reach the consistency of playdo.

. t e e w s s i r e m Sum Drink it up!

Remove excess flour and knead for 10 minutes until the dough is elastic and shiny. Form into a ball or disc, wrap in plastic and allow to rest in fridge for a couple of hours or overnight. Cut dough into smaller pieces. Pass dough through pasta roller on the thickest setting, fold dough back on itself and pass through roller a few times. Then pass each piece through, gradually reducing thickness. Once thin enough, lay on a lightly floured surface and cover with a damp towel. Take a 2-inch circle cutter and cut the dough. Place about 2 t of filling on one side of the dough circle. Wet one tip of the semi-circle and attach it to the opposite side of the semi-circle. Toss each half moon in semolina to prevent sticking and lay on tray in a single layer. Freeze if not being used right away.

NEW! Frutti di Bosco Iced Rooibos

Bring a large pot of salted water to a rolling boil. Using a slotted spoon, place pasta in the water and cook for about 3-4 minutes or until al-dente. With the slotted spoon, carefully remove the pasta from the water and transfer to a colander. Gently rinse the pasta with warm-hot water. This should be done at the last possible moment, right before plating. To successfully serve pasta, you must have hot plates, hot sauce and hot pasta. Place shallow, wide bowls in a 200ºF oven to warm. Meanwhile, bring the broth to just below simmering, the vapours of the broth should just begin to rise. Hold it at this temperature. Plating: Place 3 or 4 hot tortelloni in the centre of the warm plate and ladle enough hot broth over to cover the base of the bowl. Sprinkle with a small amount of the pickled fennel, and garnish with a drizzle of the tarragon oil. Serve immediately. Serves 17 people.

Visit us in Edmonton Campus Tower | Edmonton City Centre Government District | Scotia Place Market at Summerside www.goodearthcafes.com

Ron shows off the tortelloni en brodo.

The Tomato | July August 2013 15


For 13 years, Indulgence, a Canadian epic of food and wine, has helped introduce local food producers to Edmonton chefs, who showcase their dishes with estate wines from B.C. and Ontario. The idea? To celebrate our gastronomic community, enjoy delicious food and drink, and to establish long-term working relationships between chefs and area farmers, ranchers, cheesemakers and producers. Indulgence also raises money for two excellent causes: The Junior League of Edmonton’s children’s programs and the Indulgence Slow Food Edmonton Bursary at NAIT. A donation of more than $30,000 funds annual bursaries for NAIT culinary students and alumni to learn more about local food. Indulgence showcases regional farmers and ranchers, pairing them with a restaurant and a Canadian estate winery or brewery to make culinary magic. It’s a sellout every year, with more than 400 guests enjoying seasonal dishes and tasting some of Canada’s best wines, as well as offerings from regional food and fruit wine producers such as Newget, Birds & Bees and Barr Estate fruit wineries. Photos by Amanda LeNeve

16 July August 2013 | The Tomato


Cool completely, then chill for 4 hours or overnight in the refrigerator. To serve: Cut belly into ½ inch pieces and pan-sear. Plate the pork belly with apple puree and walnut beet sauce and garnish with the beet pickle. Makes about 10 appetizer-sized portions.

Wine Match: Desert Hills Gamay

Lux Steakhouse + Bar 10150 101 street, 780-424-0400, luxsteak.com

Four Whistle Farm Leduc, fourwhistlefarm.ca Andrew Fung, XIX

XIX Nineteen 5940 Mullen Way, 780-395-1119 dinenineteen.com

Irving’s Farm Fresh Berkshire Pork Round Hill, irvingsfarmfresh.com

Desert Hills Estate Winery South Okanagan, deserthills.ca

berkshire pork belly with roasted walnut beet sauce, pureed spiced apples and red beet pickle Executive chef Andrew Fung

roasted walnut beet sauce

Peel and seed apple and cut into 6 pieces. Put into a small pot with lid along with the wine and cinnamon. Steam over low heat until soft. Puree until smooth.

red beet pickle 1 large

red beet, thinly sliced

1 c

rice wine vinegar

½ t

salt

¼ t

black peppercorns

Boil all wet ingredients, then put sliced beets into the mixture and allow to steep for 3 hours. Refrigerate until ready to use.

pressed pork belly 1 piece

pork belly (approx. 1.3 kg)

2 heads

garlic

sea salt and freshly-ground black pepper

4-6 large beets (approx. ½ kilo)

handful

thyme sprigs

½ c

roasted walnuts

olive oil, to drizzle

½

olive oil

1 c

dry white wine

3 t

salt

2 c

brown chicken stock

1 t

black pepper

Preheat the oven to 375ºF

Peel and slice beets and boil until tender. Cool, then add walnuts, olive oil and season to taste. Blend until smooth. Reserve.

apple puree 2 1/3

Granny Smith apples c

¼ t

dry white wine cinnamon

Season pork belly with salt, pepper, olive oil and garlic. Pour white wine and chicken stock into a hotel pan (or similar large deep pan such as a roaster) with pork belly. Cover and bake for 2.5 hours. Transfer the pork to a clean chopping board and leave to cool slightly. While still warm, place another tray on top of the pork and weigh down with a few heavy tins to flatten it.

Quails Gate Estate Winery Kelowna, quailsgate.com

four whistle farm lamb tartare with preserved lemon and pickled radish

Rotate the jar to stir every three days for 6-8 weeks. After that, wash lemons and use as needed, keeping the remaining lemons in brine before use.

pickled radish 1 bunch radishes, washed and trimmed (approx. 8 oz) ½ c

rice vinegar

½ c

water

½ c

sugar

2 T

kosher salt

1 T

chili flakes

1 T

mustard seed

Bring all ingredients except the radishes to a boil in a small pot. Slice radishes thinly (approx. 1/16) with a mandoline. Pour the vinegar mixture over sliced radishes. Cool in ice bath and then store in refrigerator for up to 4 days.

lamb tartare small boneless leg of lamb (about 10 oz) 1 shallot 3

garlic dill pickles

3 T

capers

¼ c

mint leaves

preserved lemon

¼ c

basil leaves.

3-6 lemons, depending on size of the jar

juice and zest of 1 orange

juice and zest of 1 lemon

Chef Matt Phillips

½ t

chili flakes

1 T

chili sauce

½ t

toasted coriander seed

1½ T

Dijon mustard

½ t

fennel seed

salt and pepper

kosher salt

3 T

Turkish olive oil

Wash lemons thoroughly. Slice lemon from top down toward stem stopping 1 inch from bottom of stem end. Repeat in opposite direction to split the lemon into quarters and open like a flower. Add 1 T of kosher salt to the lemon. Press lemon back together tightly. Place at bottom of sterilized canning jar. Repeat process with more lemons, really packing them inside the jar. Add the spices and more salt. Continue process until jar is filled to 1 inch from the top. Press down on lemons to release juice. Place lemon jar in a warm place. After 24 hours, press down on lemons again to release more juice. After 3 days, press down on lemons again. If there is not enough juice to completely cover the lemons, squeeze fresh lemons to fill the remainder of the jar.

Clean a small boneless leg of lamb, removing most of the fat and silver skin. Cool in freezer or refrigerator until lamb is very cold. Chop to a fine dice with a very sharp knife on a clean cutting board. Mince shallot, pickles, capers, mint leaves, and basil leaves. Add to bowl with lamb. Add citrus zest and juices, chili sauce and Dijon. Season to taste and finish with 3 T Turkish olive oil. Mix ingredients well, and serve on toasted rye bread with preserved lemon and pickled radish as a garnish.

Wine Match: Quails Gate Pinot Noir

Continued next page

The Tomato | July August 2013 17


Culina Muttart Muttart Conservatory 9626 96A Street, 780-466-1181 culinafamily.com

Brad Smoliak

Gull Valley Greenhouse Central Alberta, gullvalley.ca

Cellarhand Wines South Okanagan, cellarhand.ca

prairie caprese salad with cheesiry pesto and saskatoon balsamic dressing Chef de cuisine Stephanie Dore 2 lbs assorted Gull Valley tomatoes, sliced or cut in half (we used cherry and grape tomatoes) Sylvan Star medium Gouda for grating sea salt and fresh-cracked black pepper

pesto 100 ml

Mighty Trio canola

handful

(1 c) Gull Valley basil

50 g

grated Cheesiry pecorino

1 clove

garlic

Puree all ingredients. Season and reserve.

saskatoon balsamic dressing 1 lb

saskatoons (mashed)

¼ c

balsamic vinegar

In a small saucepot, simmer balsamic and berries for about 1 hour. Strain and cool. To serve: Arrange sliced tomatoes on 4 plates. Drizzle each plate with the pesto and berry balsamic dressing. Grate Gouda over and season to taste. Serves 4.

Wine Match: Cellarhand Free Run White

18 July August 2013 | The Tomato

Kitchen by Brad Smoliak

1/3

c

Chinese soy sauce

101, 10130 105 Street 780-757-7704, kitchenbybrad.ca

1/3

c

sugar

¼ c

sesame oil

Spring Creek Ranch Natural Beef

1 t

black pepper

Vegreville, springcreek.ca

½ t

red chili powder or cayenne

Alley Kat Beer

1 large

(28 oz) can diced tomatoes

1 c

water

alleykatbeer.com

¼ c cornstarch, dissolved in water

korean beef chili

1-3 T

Sambal Oelek

1 c

bean sprouts

Chef Brad Smoliak

Heat oil in a Dutch oven and add onions and peppers. Cook 5 minutes, add the garlic and ginger and cook another 5 minutes. Add the ground beef and cook, just until all of the pink is gone.

Brad served the Korean Chili as a potsticker at Indulgence, but you can just as easily serve it over rice or noodles. 2 t

canola oil

1 c

diced onion

¼ c

crushed garlic

¼ c

crushed ginger

Add all of the remaining ingredients. Bring to a simmer, then turn to low and cook for 1 hour over low heat. Turn off heat, adjust seasonings, add the bean sprouts, cover with lid and allow to ‘steep’ for 30 minutes.

1 c

diced peppers

Serve over rice or noodles. Serves 6-8.

2 lb

ground beef

1 c

sliced mushrooms

Beer Match: Alley Kat Summer Squeeze Grapefruit Ale


Edmonton Petroleum Club 11110 108 Street, 780-474-3411, edpetroleumclub.com

The Cheesiry Artisan Sheep Cheese Kitskoty, thecheesiry.com

Warm the egg yolk and slowly add to the mixture by whisking it in. Taste and salt the ice cream mixture. Pass through a chinoise and cool down. Put it in the ice cream machine and enjoy.

Sherbrooke was Doing Beer

Wine Match: Peller Estate VQA Britsh Columbia Pinot Gris

Peller Estate British Columbia, peller.com

Continued next page

Before Beer was Cool

the cheesiry pecorino ice cream The Petroleum Club kitchen served a toothsome braised beef shortrib with pears, white chocolate and this delicious savoury ice cream.

11819 St Albert Trail 780.455.4556 www.sherbrookeliquor.com

Chef de cuisine Doreen Prei 1000 g

milk

1000 g

cream

400 g

aged pecorino shredded

200 g

egg yolk

salt to taste

juice of half a lemon

Bring the milk and cream to a boil. Add the pecorino and melt it in the liquid with a hand blender. Add lemon juice.

hosting mEmorablE EvEnts sinCE 1950

Edmonton PEtrolEum Club Lend your next event the elegance and sophistication only a private club can provide. Weddings Banquets Membership Opportunities 11110 - 108 Street 780.474.3411

www.edpetroleumclub.com

We bring smoking to a whole new level. We would like to thank everyone for their support as we rebuild after the fire. Watch for our re-launch in late March 2013. In the meantime, visit our Leduc location for your BBQ fix. BBQ Edmonton Petroleum Club’s braised beef with walnut biscotti and The Cheesiry Pecorino Ice Cream

10810 124 Street, Edmonton & 5401 Discovery Way, Leduc 780-986-2010

The Tomato | July August 2013 19


Von’s Steakhouse & Oyster Bar

chicken

dressing

2

whole chickens

1 c

bacon fat

10309 81 Avenue, 780-439-0041 vonssteakhouse.com

1½ c

water

½ c

grainy stone ground mustard

½ c

pomegranate juice

1/3

Natures Green Acres

½ c

leeks chopped fine

Viking, naturesgreenacres.com

2 T

chipotle tobasco sauce

Vineland Estates

½ c

Sambal Oelek

½ c

sweet chili sauce

Niagara, vineland.com

natures green acres pulled chicken with sage baby croutons and ‘almost burnt’ butternut squash with a hot bacon mustard dressing Executive chef Shane Chartrand Shane suggests serving the chicken and squash over heirloom greens for a nice lunch.

Mix all ingredients together and marinate the chicken for 2 days. Drain the chickens and arrange in a braising pan with all the juice. Cook slowly at 220-230ºF until the chickens are loose at the bone — the meat will be pulling away from the bottom of the legs or the thighs will pull away from the body easily, and the juices run clear. Cool down and pull the meat off gently, ensuring the pieces are even in size. Put the meat back into the juice and keep chilled in the refrigerator. Reserve.

c

white vinegar

Warm up the fat, mix all ingredients together and emulsify again before you pour over the chicken. Serve warm.

croutons 1 large

pita

30 g air-dried natural sage (about 1 oz)

salt and pepper

¼ c

grapeseed oil

1 clove

garlic, minced

pinch dry thyme

Whisk all ingredients but the pita in a bowl. Cut the pita into an even small dice. Toss in the oil mixture until evenly coated. Bake in the oven at 250ºF until just cooked. The carry-over temperature will finish them to a nice bite.

butternut squash 1

butternut squash

salt and pepper

½ c

canola oil

Preheat oven 350ºF. Peel and clean the squash. Cut into small dice size (approx. 1/4 inch by 1/4 inch by ¼-inch). Place squash into a large pan with oil, salt and pepper. Slowly cook until al dente. Right before finished cooking, put the squash on a sheet pan and finish in the broiler at high heat (300ºF) until there is a thin layer of char for a nice, charred sweet and crispy texture and flavour. Cool immediately.

to assemble: Warm the pulled chicken, Scoop a light heaping of the squash, then chicken. Shake up the dressing and liberally spoon over. Finish with a shake of the mini croutons.

Beautiful Parties c aT e r e D h e r e .

Serves 8-10.

Wine Match: Vineland Unoaked Chardonnay

T he B uT ler D i D i T 780.455.5228 | tlagency@shaw.ca

20 July August 2013 | The Tomato

Shane Chartrand, Von’s


4404 Restaurant at the Delta Edmonton South 4404 Gateway Blvd, 780-434-6415, deltahotels.com

Sylvan Star Cheese Farm Lacombe, sylvanstarcheesefarm.ca

Calliope Wines South Okanagan, calliopewines.com

sylvan star chive and gouda arancini Executive sous chef Vincent Horvath 1½ c

arborio rice

4 c

vegetable stock

1 med. shallot or ½ small onion, chopped (about ½ c) 3 T

unsalted butter

1 T

canola oil

¼ c

grated Parmesan cheese

1 T

diced chives

1 c Sylvan Star Chive Gouda cheese

milk

1 c seasoned flour (flour with salt and pepper blended in) 2c

Stir in the remaining 2 T butter, Parmesan and the parsley, and season to taste. Allow risotto to cool in shallow pan. When cool, mix in Gouda and form into balls about the size of a pingpong ball. Beat egg and milk together. First put risotto ball in flour, then egg wash then the panko crumbs.

panko crumbs

Wine Match: Calliope Sauvignon Blanc

Whatever you’re having... We’ve Got a Wine for That!

West Edmonton Mall • Entrance 58

@Aligrawine

780.483.103 • www.aligrawineandspirits.com

Madison’s Grill at the Union Bank Inn 10053 Jasper Avenue, 780-401-2222, unionbankinn.com

In a medium saucepan, heat the stock to a simmer then lower the heat so that the stock just stays hot.

Doef ’s Greenhouses

In a large, heavy-bottomed saucepan, heat the oil and 1 T of butter over medium heat. When the butter has melted, add the chopped shallot or onion. Sauté for 2-3 minutes until translucent.

South Okanagan, road13vineyards.com

Add the rice to the pot and stir it briskly with a wooden spoon so that the grains are coated with the oil and melted butter. Sauté for another minute or so until there is a slightly nutty aroma, but don't let the rice turn brown.

Bison burger... with the works?

Deep fry in vegetable oil until golden brown. Makes about 30 arancini.

kosher salt, to taste

1 egg 1 c

Continue adding ladles of hot stock and stirring the rice while the liquid is absorbed. As it cooks, you'll see that the rice will take on a creamy consistency as it begins to release its natural starches. Continue adding stock, a ladle at a time, for 20-30 minutes or until the grains are tender but still firm to the bite, without being crunchy. If you run out of stock and the risotto still isn't done, you can finish the cooking using hot water. Just add water as you did with the stock, a ladle at a time, stirring until absorbed.

Lacombe, doefsgreenhouses.com

facebook.com/aligrawine

Matahari

A PA N - A S I A N D I N I N G E X P E R I E N C E

Road 13 Vineyards

panko-crusted eggplant wrap

Dining, Takeout, Catering & Special Events 10108B – 124 Street • 452-8262

Ample free parking at rear with rear entrance available. Open for lunch and dinner Tuesday to Sunday, hours vary.

Executive chef Charla Padilla 1 eggplant 20

or so fresh basil leaves

500 g

(approx.) feta cheese

Add a ladle of hot vegetable stock to the rice and stir until the liquid is fully absorbed. When the rice appears almost dry, add another ladle of stock and repeat the process.

20 pieces chives

Note: It's important to stir constantly, especially while the hot stock gets absorbed, to prevent scorching, and add the next ladle as soon as the rice is almost dry.

flour as needed

3 eggs

beaten

canola oil (for frying) as needed panko breadcrumbs as needed

Please see “Indulgence’ on page 30

Friendly, knowlegable WSET-trained staff. 9658 - 142 Street | 780-488-7800 | crestwoodfinewines.com The Tomato | July August 2013 21


Summer Wine:

Good things to drink in the summer Strawberries, cherries and the stick man arrives an angel’s kiss in spring Take one irrepressible Montrealer named Nathalie My summer wine is really made from all these things Take off your silver spurs and help me pass the time And I will give to you summer wine Ohh, summer wine – Summer Wine, Nancy Sinatra Lyrics by Lee Hazelwood

Can’t promise angel’s kisses, but can promise flavour in this collection of wines for alfresco lunches and dinner, after weekend gardening marathons, parties, or for no reason at all. Drink up! – Mary Bailey

22 July August 2013 | The Tomato

Bonhomme. Add family, a life in Spain, friends who make fabulous wine and what do you get?

El Petit Bonhomme Blanco (Rueda, Spain) $15 Arriving just in time for summer is El Petit Bonhomme Blanco (DO Rueda). Made from Verdejo, just what we want to drink all season long. Crisp enough for the patio, yet with an attractive mouth-filling texture (from barrel-aging a portion of the wine on its lees, no less) that astonishes at this price. El Petit Bonhomme Tinto (DO Jumilla) is a juicy blend of Monastrell, Garnacha and Syrah with savoury dark berry flavours and herbal notes reminiscent of the wide open spaces of Jumilla. Equally at home in fine stemware as it is in a tumbler, expect to find the stick man everywhere this summer.

the summer of riesling In 2008, Paul Grieco (a Canadian!) co-owner of the New York wine bars Terroir, decided to pour only Riesling that summer. He started a revolution. Imagine, people drinking refreshing white wine with noticeable acidity and with alcohol levels under 14 per cent. It’s a wine juggernaut — for more on that story visit summerofriesling.com. Let’s have our very own Summer of Riesling…. right here, right now.

2012 Tantalus Riesling (Kelowna, British Columbia) $25 Aromas hint of coconut and lime, flavours of ripe citrus, canteloupe and green apple, all wrapped up in an opulent mouth-filling texture — just lovely. The hallmark of Tantalus’ sublime Rieslings, the uncompromising ribbon of acidity that crosses the palate like a Japanese blade, is slightly less sharp in this bottling, the result of a warmer than usual vintage. This will be welcome news for some, allowing the wine to be enjoyed as an aperitif much sooner, like tonight. Like this? Try the 2010 Old Vines Riesling, $35.

2012 Bender Paulessen Riesling (Mosel, Germany) $20 Softly smoky, slatey and floral notes in the aromas along with a honeyed richness in the mouth, and a bit less of the super-racy acidity that the Mosel is known for, puts this dry Riesling on track for casual sipping or with roast pork. Like this? Try the Kulina Riesling Zenit, $27.

2012 Cedar Creek Platinum Block Three Riesling (Kelowna, British Columbia) $25 Cedar Creek’s single vineyard offering, from a block of un-irrigated 21-year-old vines (old by Okanagan standards), harvested early, then treated to a go-slow ferment, adds up to a superbly elegant package. Light-bodied, racy, fragrant with citrus and limestone. Want more? Try the Cedar Creek Riesling, $18.


“the first duty of a wine is to be red.” – ancient wine proverb Summer means barbecue. Nothing goes better with barbecued red meat than straight-up, full-bodied red wines with juicy fruit and ripe tannins. Remember, meat loves tannin and tannin loves meat. Leave the soft, fruit-cordial Merlots and Malbecs to be enjoyed by the fireplace. This summer uncork wines with some structure to make the most of steaks and chops on the ’Q.

2009 Mas Doix Les Crestes (Priorat, Spain) $35

2008 Gran Vino de Pago Arinzano (Navarra, Spain) $85

The key to Priorat is altitude, vine age, and the slate soil called licorella. Mas Doix vineyards are over 400 metres high, and the youngest vines in Les Crestes are at least 20 years old. A bit of Syrah provides some elegance and structure; Carignan brings in some bottom like a bass guitar, and together they keep the happy, luscious red fruit exuberance of ripe Garnacha from spilling out all over (even wine needs Spanx sometimes). Big wine lovers, giddyup! Also try Mas Doix Salenques, $60.

Vino de Pago is a relatively new designation for Spanish wine, roughly equivalent to grand cru status, meaning the grapes from certain vineyard sites are recognized as having special attributes and are the best in the region. There are only 13 in all of Spain. Pago de Arinzano nudges the Pyrenees growing mostly Tempranillo with some Merlot. The Gran Vino: chewy-textured and supple, with good weight mid-palate; tasting of layers of cassis and other black fruit, with subtle cedar and baking spice flavours. The long finish deserves to be savoured, slowly, with roast lamb, bison tenderloin, or the best Alberta striploin under the stars. Decant for a few hours if drinking tonight, you could cellar for another 15 years. Looking for something a little more casual? Try 2008 Arinzano La Casona, $40.

Vegetables, fish, chicken and pork belong on the barbecue too. Enjoy these with lighter reds.

2006 Finco El Puig (Priorat, Spain) $35

Try to keep the alcohol levels under 14 per cent, as warmer weather can make high alcohol wines taste harsh and unbalanced. And don’t be afraid to put your reds in the refrigerator for 10-20 minutes before serving.

Love the fennel, mineral and wild thyme aromas and flavours of El Puig, especially partnered with its rich fruit and round, well-modulated tannins. A delicious blend of Garnacha, Carignan and Syrah as well, delicious with ribs or juicy burgers.

2009 Tinhorn 2 Bench Red (South Okanagan, British Columbia) $30

2010 Braida Monferrato Rosso Il Bacialè (Piedmont, Italy) $34

Hard to beat this Bordeaux blend (Cab Sauv, Cab Franc, Merlot and Petit Verdot) from Sandra Oldfield. It’s full-bodied, elegant, well-balanced, with great fruit and spot-on acidity; nice savourygamey flavours with a bit of smoke and herbs on the nose.

Continued next page

Mostly Barbera blended with Pinot Nero, Cab and Merlot. We don’t see a lot of Barbera here, which is a shame, as the grape’s upfront ease and drinkability make it a winner. There’s no grape better to have with red-sauced pasta, salumi or dishes like eggplant parmigiana. $34.

Prices are approximate. Find these wines at Crestwood, Wines by Liquor Select, The Wine Cellar, Unwined, Keg & Cork, Wine and Beyond, Petrolia Liquor, and other fine wine shops. Not all wines at all shops.

The Tomato | July August 2013 23


2010 Felton Road, Bannockburn Pinot Noir (Central Otago, New Zealand) $55 Pinot Noir is the go-to summer wine for lovers of salmon on the grill. Felton Road’s Bannockburn has such impeccable balance of fruit, minerality, tannins and alcohol; elegant with a remarkable purity and depth of flavour. Felton Road, like many Central Otago Pinots, may be hard to find — desired all over the world, Canada gets a few cases only. When you see it, grab it! Drink with grilled salmon, cedar planked or not. Also, Felton Road’s zingy Riesling, $40.

2011 Massimago Valpolicella (Veneto, Italy) $20 Richly aromatic — think ripe strawberries drizzled with balsamic with hints of black pepper and mint — with a freshness that makes it eminently suitable for summer drinking. Like this? Try Massimago Valpolicella Superiore, $34.

2011 Laurent Martray Brouilly Vieilles Vignes (Beaujolais, France) $30 Packed with Gamay’s characteristic

24 July August 2013 | The Tomato

cherries and clay aromas, fresh and fruity flavours with hints of spice and bacon and a velvety texture; what’s not to like? Cru Beaujolais is especially delicious with barbecue duck; pick one up in Chinatown for quick Friday night dinners.

real men (and women) drink pink Rosé is the quintessential summertime drop, cool and refreshing, yet with a bit more structure, making many rosé suitable to drink right through dinner. Pinks, due to their low tannin and high fruit factor, can often take the heat found in south Asian foods like tandoori chicken. The good way to make pink wine: let the juice sit on the skins for a bit, allowing the juice to pick up some colour, tannin and complexity. The not-so-good way? Blend red with white or add food colouring. Old world producers overwhelmingly prefer the old-fashioned way and are forbidden by law to blend red with white (except in Champagne, a whole other story). Quality new

world producers choose the more natural methods. Old world rosés are generally made from Grenache (called Garnacha in Spain). In new world rosés, anything goes and here’s two that go really well.

2012 Cedar Creek Rosé Pinot Noir (Kelowna, British Columbia) $20 Expect zesty fresh flavours, with luscious strawberry aromas and a hint of earthy minerality along with a pleasing tension between fruit and acidity. This Cedar Creek bottling could take you through summer right to Thanksgiving turkey. Drink with cold meats, smoked salmon, lawn chair.

2012 Hester Creek Rosé Cabernet Franc (South Okanagan, British Columbia) $20 This gentle coral-coloured offering has attractive aromas of strawberries, cherries, with a pleasing hit of green leaf and spice in the mouth as well. Medium-bodied, dry, well-balanced acidity, moderate-ish alcohol, and a crisp finish, very fresh. Nominated for ‘fridge door wine of summer 2013.’

don’t forget the bubbles Prosecco has become shorthand for anything with bubbles. If you plan to make punch, or mix with oj, any old prosecco (or bubble for that matter) will do. For the ultimate drinking experience look for these words on the label: Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG. This tells you the wine comes from vines grown in the heart of the region, and this, dear reader, is where the most characterful and delicious wines come from.

Ruggeri Prosecco Giall’oro Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore Extra Dry (Italy) $28 Ruggeri’s Gold Label is delicate and fruity on the nose and palate with a fine persistent bubble that doesn’t disappear with the second glass. Want to explore? Ruggeri Giustino B spends three months on the lees, which contributes to its richer, more complex taste. $38. Mary Bailey puts ice cubes in her tumbler of El Petit Blanco on a hot day.


Take it Outside

Tools and gadgets to make outdoor living a breeze No glass by the pool, or on the stone patio. Is it possible to have something stylish and long lived in non-breakable glasses, or are we stuck using disposable red solo cups for safety? Hillaby’s says there is an alternative. The Enjoy Centre shop stocks attractive, high-quality acrylic glassware from an Italian company called Guzzini. Established in 1912, the le Marche (eastern Italy) based Fratelli Guzzini pioneered acrylics for kitchenware and tabletop in 1938. This is not your usual oneuse plastic. The pieces are sturdy, feel good in the hand, and look great, even after the dishwasher.

Le Creuset Outside

Zocalo Bistro Set

Lekue Citrus Sprayers

We love Le Creuset in the kitchen, but it’s equally at home on the deck or patio, especially in the new sunny yellow colour called Soleil. The sturdy cake stand is as useful for cut watermelon as it is to display a cake like the coconut rum extravaganza on page 9.

A ceramics artist and an ironmonger from Michoacán, Mexico handmade bistro table and chair sets exclusively for Zocalo. Sturdily constructed to withstand the wind and rain of an Alberta summer, yet they fold up for winter storage. Three styles: a sunburst Sante Fe design, a blue and white floral pattern, and the contemporary Mondrian look (pictured).

Darcy from Call the Kettle Black told us about this ingenious and practical tool for getting the most out of a lemon, and we haven’t stopped using it since. Take a citrus fruit, stick the sprayer in one end and you have your very own personal spritzer. No more ¼ lemons languishing in the fridge. You can measure out a spoonful at a time, or just squeeze away. Excellent for salad dressings and especially handy for cocktails. Taste what a spritz of fresh ruby red grapefruit does for your next gin and tonic. Lekue Citrus Sprayers citrus are packaged two to a card, one for larger citrus such as oranges and grapefruits, and a smaller one for lemons and limes.

The square griddle is barbecuefriendly, ideal for cooking pieces of fish or for mixed vegetables and goes right to the table. The stonewear pitcher, serving dishes and dinnerware are designed with Le Creuset’s characteristic three-ring pattern and comes in all the good colours.

Sources: Bella Casa, Pan Tree Kitchen, Italian Centre Shop, Call the Kettle Black, Zocalo, Hillaby’s. Not all items in all stores.

Le Creuset Dinnerware in multiple colours: plate $30 each; 16 piece set $280; cake stand in Soleil ($60); square griddle in Soleil ($180).

Lekue Citrus Sprayers, $19.95 Hand-made Mexican bistro set, $500 for table, $250 per chair, or $1,000 for the set.

Guzzini pool and patio beverage in four colours: clear, green, yellow, orange and red. Pitcher $30, tray $30, tumblers $7 each.

The Tomato | July August 2013 25


Coming soon! The Harvest issue • Harvest vegetable recipes • D  IY is no longer just for the culinary pros. Regular folk are making their own cheese and grinding their own wheat. We take a look at the urban homesteading movement. • C  ook’s tattoos Photo essay by Curtis Comeau

beer guy

| peter bailey

Summer Fling Bitter beer is better beer. I still believe that. But isn’t summer the perfect time for a fling with something bubbly and bright? In Portland recently, I found my eyes wandering down the bar, away from my beloved hop bombs to the subtler charms of wheat beer and the beer style du jour: saison. After a couple evenings of high-alcohol, heavily-hopped Oregon beers, my palate cried out for a break, and saison was there to help me make it through the night. Like India pale ale, saison was a fading old European style revived recently by adventurous American brewers. Saison, or farmhouse ale, originates from Wallonia, the French-speaking part of Belgium, where farmers brewed a beer seasonally for thirsty harvest workers. Like Beaujolais nouveau wine, saison was a refreshing, light and lively beer consumed soon after brewing. Modern versions are quite diverse, with few hard and fast rules, but they are generally fruity, bubbly and low in hop bitterness. In Portland, the local alt-weekly declared a saison the 2013 beer of the year: The Commons Brewery’s Urban Farmhouse Ale. A friend and I bought a bottle and snuck it back to the hotel where we drank it away from the judgmental eyes of our fellow hop heads. An iconoclast in a city of iconoclasts, The Commons’ brewer Mike Wright calls his beers “yeastforward.” He’s right, the malt and hops in this ale play backup to the spicy, fruity notes created by the saison yeast.

26 July August 2013 | The Tomato

Portland writer Adrienne So wondered recently in Slate if the “hops arms race” in craft brewing might be alienating people who don’t like bitter beer. She might have a point as more subtle but delicious styles of beer tend to be overlooked in the rush to find the biggest, boldest beer on the block. Garret Oliver, Brooklyn Brewery's brewmaster, complained a few years ago that a brewer boasting about the huge amounts of hops in his beer was akin to a chef boasting about how much salt he put in his soup. In Edmonton, Alley Kat was once again ahead of the trend, releasing a spring seasonal that focused on the magic that yeast can bring to beer. Their Full Moon Belgian Pale Ale was a revelation, a clever twist on an old favourite — brewing their hoppy Full Moon Pale Ale with Belgian yeast to create a unique hybrid with a distinctly fruity saison flavour. A Canadian marriage: French-Belgian style merged with the brash, hoppy style of the Pacific Northwest. I wish the happy couple bonne chance! And IPA, don’t worry, I just can’t quit you. Our northern summers are fleeting and soon enough I’ll be jonesing for your big hops again.


Summer Fling Six Pack Many Canadian craft brewers are giving saison and other less hopcentric styles a try. Summer also means the release of beers focused on fun, full of fruit and aiming to please.

Le Trou du Diable: La Saison du Tracteur, Shawinigan, QC One assumes a Quebec brewer knows how to brew this style. One sip of La Saison du Tracteur and you know it’s true. This sunny meadow in a pint glass will have you humming Sting’s ‘Fields of Gold’ in no time. You’ve been warned. Tart, sweet, effervescent and just a touch funky.

Half Pints: Saison de la Ceinture Fléchée, Winnipeg Half Pints gives a nice nod to Manitoba’s francophone culture with this saison with a Métis arrow sash on the label. Brewed with Belgian and French yeast and barley and wheat, this is a fruity, spicy, almost flintyale sure to please your inner coureurs de bois.

Alley Kat: Summer Squeeze Grapefruit Ale, Edmonton

The high-end kitchen store with the in-store kitchen

The highest quality cutlery. We carry Wusthof, Zwilling Henckels and Miyabi Sign up for weekly cooking classes Gift Cards also available! #550, 220 Lakeland Dr., Sherwood Park 780.464.4631 www.thepantree.ca /ThePanTree

@PanTreeKitchen

hardware grill est. 1996

I’ve served Alley Kat’s summer seasonal at a couple of gatherings and it has been the first beer to disappear. Everyone loves this beer. Made with whole grapefruits and extract, it’s not too sweet for the geek, but fruity enough for the rookie. This beer needs a home on your deck.

Wild Rose: Gose Rider, Calgary Kudos to Wild Rose for reviving gose, a rare and unusual beer style. Gose is a wheat beer from Leipzig, Germany made with coriander and salt. Wild Rose used Belgian yeast with wheat and barley malt, and spiced with coriander and sea salt. A complex, slightly sour yet light and lively beer.

Granville: Ginja Ninja Ginger Beer, Vancouver Ginger beer that’s really beer — an interesting concept! The ginger in Granville’s summer seasonal is deceptive, sneaking up on your palate (like a ninja, one presumes). I like that this beer pairs well with food, with sushi and spicy Asian food topping the list of great partners.

hardware grill est. 1996

hardware grill hardware grill est. 1996

est. 1996

Yukon: Belgian Gothic Saison, Whitehorse The Canadian Arctic is not what comes to mind when one thinks about saison. But Yukon went all in, literally, to make a convincing summer beer. Starting with Belle Saison yeast and rye, wheat, and barley malts plus acidulated malt for a touch of sourness, then added cracked peppercorns and chopped oranges and grapefruits. A delightful northern beauty. Peter Bailey remains a hop head but is prone to wandering. He tweets as @Libarbarian.

seasonal prairie cuisine • the evolution of tradition www.hardwaregrill.com / 780.423.0969 / 9698 Jasper Ave

The Tomato | July August 2013 27


wine maven

alto adige wine producer franz haas

was featured at a dinner at corso 32 in May. Andi Punter from the winery entertained a full house while chatting about the wines of the 55-hectare vineyard established in 1880, and located in the sud-Tirol, at the very northern edge of Italy. Highlights of the spring menu were Alberta trout with marcona almonds, radicchio and Pink Lady apples paired with the crisply fragrant 2011 Pinot Grigio; and toothsome rabbit ragu with 2010 Pinot Nero.

priscilla incisa della rocchetta

the family ambassador for Tenuta San Guido came for lunch at Lux, pouring several wines from the family estate including the 2009 Sassicaia. Sassicaia rocketed to global prominence with the 1972 vintage (first vintage was 1968) and with it the region of Bolgheri in southwest Tuscany, as a producer of high-quality wines based on Cabernet Sauvignon. What makes it so special? The soil is stony similar to Bordeaux, arguably one of the best places in Italy to grow Cab. It was a treat to taste the not-yet-ready-but-delicious-nonetheless 2009.

Top: Ramon Miranda, corso 32; Shauna Faragini, WSET3 graduate; Andi Punter, Franz Haas. Above: Jeff Sparling, Fine Wines by Liquor Select before lunch at Lux with Priscilla Incisa della Rocchetta, Tenuta San Guido.

28 July August 2013 | The Tomato


feeling sad? visit braida.it for a musical cheer me up.

One foray onto the Braida website and it’s obvious, here’s a wine house that doesn’t take itself too seriously, at least when it comes to naming the wines. Their top of the line bottling is old vine Barbera from the Uccellone vineyard (which takes its name from an old lady who looked like a crow). Lovely for this summer is Il Fiore, an aromatic Chardonnay/Nascetta blend we can’t wait to have with grilled halibut. Or, enjoy Vigna Senza Nome, fragrant and sweet Moscato, perfect for cake.

Shop where the chefs shop.

former montrealer fiona perrin birken

North American brand ambassador for Sauterne house Chateau Guiraud came for lunch at the Hardware Grill this spring. She is based in New York City and loving it. “The sommeliers in New York are fantastic,” she says. “They are really excited about our wines.”

278 Cree Road in Sherwood Park • 780.449-.3710 Open Monday to Thursday 10-5 • Friday to Saturday 9-6

The surprise was the Petit Guiraud, made from fruit from younger vines, a little less unctuous, a little less sweet, remarkably fresh and delicious — have it à la Francaise with foie gras (or pâté) as a first course.

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Top: Braida’s Norbert Reinisch sharing a laugh over lunch at Ruth’s Chris. Right: Fiona Perrin Birken, Chateau Guiraud, at the Hardware Grill.

PHONE: 7807577833 FAX: 7807577834 EMAIL: PATRICKBROKERSENROUTE.CA ADDRESS: #203 10840 124 STREET

The Tomato | July August 2013 29


indulgence

Red Ox Inn

Continued from page 21

9420 91 Street, 780-465-5727 the redoxinn.ca

Blanch chives for a few seconds, then shock in ice water. This will make the chives more pliable. Set aside.

Fine Wines by Liquor Select Fine Wines | Exceptional Staff | Private Tasting Room Join us for weekly tastings, private events and corporate functions in our private tasting room — equipped with LCD projector and screen. 8924 149 Street | 780.481.6868 | liquorselect.com | wine@liquorselect.com

• Edmonton’s best selection of whisky • Unique Cheeses & Charcuterie • Full lunch and dinner menu • Private functions Southside • 5482 Calgary Trail • 780.761.1761 2ND LOCATION DOWNTOWN! 10124 – 124 Street • 780.760.8060 www.thebothy.ca

Using a slicer or a mandolin, thinly slice the eggplant lengthwise. The size of the eggplant will determine the number of basil leaves you’ll need (usually, 1 eggplant will give 20 plus slices). Cut the feta into small squares. Take basil leaf and wrap around the piece of feta. Place the wrapped feta cheese at one end of a slice of eggplant and start rolling. Tie a chive around the rolled eggplant to hold its shape.

Wetaskiwin, coallakehoneyfarm.com

Domaine Pinnacle Quebec, domainepinnacle.com

honey crullers with honey marshmallows Staff, Red Ox Inn

honey glaze

Repeat steps until eggplant is finished. Roll each eggplant wrap in flour. Dip each in beaten egg, then roll in panko.

1 c honey

Heat oil in pan; use enough oil to cover the bottom of pan. Once oil is at the smoking point, place your wraps in pan. Once all sides are brown, remove from pan (this will be a fast process). Drain on paper towels. Serve hot with Tomato Nage.

1 c

icing sugar

¼ c

heavy cream

1 t

lemon zest

4 t

lemon juice

1

vanilla bean, scraped

Combine all ingredients into a pot and bring to a simmer. Keep glaze warm until needed. Makes 2 cups.

tomato and chili pepper nage

crullers 4 T

sugar

1 t

kosher salt

500 g (approx 6-8 depending on size) fresh tomato

1 T

orange zest

4 T

unsalted butter

3

fresh red pepper

1 c

water

1 large

red onion

1 c

flour

4 cloves

garlic, rough chopped

3 eggs

1-2 small chili pepper 1 c vegetable stock or water

salt and pepper

¼ c

brown sugar

Combine ingredients in pot and bring to boil. Once tender, puree. Season to taste. Makes 20.

Wine match: Road 13 Home Vineyard Riesling

30 July August 2013 | The Tomato

Coal Lake Honey Farm

Bring sugar, salt, zest butter and water to a boil in a pot. When mixture comes to a boil, add flour. Mix vigorously with a wooden spoon over medium heat for approximately 5 minutes until the mixture resembles soft dough. Cover and let rest for 5 minutes. Place the dough in the bowl of a stand mixer with paddle attachment. With the machine running on low, add one egg at a time until the eggs are fully mixed. If a standup mixture is not available, beat in one egg at a time with a wooden spoon. Pipe out crullers using a star tip onto parchment. Cut parchment to create individual cruller portions. Heat a pot of oil to 335ºF. Place crullers with attached parchment into the oil. As the crullers cook, remove the parchment from the oil and discard. Cook until golden and puffed.


Drain on paper towel. Dip one side of cruller into glaze and let drain on a baking rack. Enjoy while still warm. Makes about 20 crullers.

honey marshmallows 5 sheets

titanium gelatin

¾ c

sugar

¼ c

honey

¼ c

glucose

½ c

water

2

egg whites

icing sugar Bloom gelatin in cold water. Squeeze out excess water and set aside. Grease a 6 x 13 inch cake pan with canola spray. Combine sugar, honey, glucose and water in a pot. Without stirring or disturbing the pot, cook the syrup mixture until it reaches 238ºF.

In a stand mixer, whip egg whites to medium peaks. With the machine running on low, slowly pour in the hot syrup mixture. Once the egg whites and syrup have emulsified, add in the gelatin. The gelatin will melt into the hot egg white and syrup mixture. At this point, increase the mixer speed to high and whip until the mixture has doubled in volume and taken on a glossy white color. With a spatula, spread the marshmallow mixture into the greased cake pan. Cover and let rest at room temperature until set. Dust a cutting board with icing sugar. Gently peel out the marshmallow slab onto your prepared cutting board. Lightly grease the blade of a sharp knife and portion marshmallows into 20 pieces. Gently coat all sides of marshmallow pieces with icing sugar to prevent sticking. Enjoy immediately or seal in airtight plastic bags to prevent marshmallows from spoiling. Makes 20 marshmallows.

Wine Match: Domaine Pinnacle Ice Cider

The Tomato | July August 2013 31


kitchen sink

| what’s new and notable

restaurant buzz Congratulations Daniel Costa! Costa, who graduated from NAIT Culinary Arts in 2005, is the recipient of the 2012 Spirit of NAIT Alumni Award, recognizing outstanding achievements of alumni early in their careers. His restaurant corso 32 (10345 Jasper Avenue, 780-421-4622) is a highly sought after reservation. The talented chef Ryan Hotchkiss (Jack’s Grill) is now at Central Social Hall (10909 Jasper Avenue, 780-705-1900), good news for those who enjoy seasonal upscale pub fare. Ryan is starting with some wellpriced innovative tasting menus; five courses, $40/person, Tuesday, July 9, 7pm start. Only 20 tickets, call 780-705-1900. Shane Loiselle (Edmonton Petroleum Club, Zinc) and Sue Kiernan (Empress Ale House) plan a restaurant in the Eddie Shorts space, east side of 124 Street, north of 107 Avenue. No word yet on when they may be opening or what the final concept will be but, as Charles Rothman of the Petroleum Club says, “knowing Shane, there’ll be meat and smoke.” Blue Chair Café (9624 76 Avenue, 780-9892861) closes for the month of August. Their last brunch is Sunday, July 28, reopening Friday, August 30. Other summer holiday breaks: The Hardware Grill (9698 Jasper Avenue, 780-423-0969) is closed for its annual summer holiday from Sunday June 30, until Thursday July 11. It will re-open for dinner on Friday, July 12 at 5 pm. X1X Nineteen (5940 Mullen Way, 780-3951119) has a new summer menu ready to be savoured on their 30-seat patio, Tuesday to Sunday 3pm – 11pm. Try Alberta heirloom tomatoes, prosciutto and crispy polenta; PEI mussels in a gorgonzola sauce; maple Dijon mustard-braised pork shank. Aleksandar Milic is the new food and beverage director at the Edmonton Petroleum Club (EPC). Aleks was most recently the dining room manager at Zinc at the AGA. The move reunites him with Doreen Prei, head of culinary development. It is quite the gastronomic dream team that Charles Rothman is building at EPC.

32 July August 2013 | The Tomato

Sorrentino’s (sorrentinos.com for all locations) offers a fresh Italian summer menu called Assaggini — Little Tastes. Choose from an assortment of antipasti such as grilled calamari or smoky black olives, followed by mains like spicy Italian tuna rocket salad or wild sockeye salmon with soy, ginger, lemongrass, and a green papaya and avocado salad. Yum.

with Tam Anderson at Prairie Gardens and Greenhouses (56311 Lily Lake Road, Bon Accord) on Sunday, July 14, 6:30pm. Five courses to be paired with carefully selected BC wines and a local cocktail. Come early and pick some flavourful strawberries at their wonderful u-pick. Tickets for both dinners are $126/person. Email blair@rgerd.ca to book.

What’s up at the Smokehouse (10810 124 Street, 587-521-6328)? “We are going full out these days, running daily BBQ specials and live blues music Thursday nights and Sunday afternoons,” says owner Terry Sept. “Tuesday is our Rib special, Whisky and Wing Wednesdays, Thursday Beer and App specials during the live music starting at 7pm, and Sangria Fridays with weekend specials.”

Who is cooking what at Taste of Edmonton’s Sip and Savour tent is trickling in slowly, but we do know that the Edmonton Petroleum Club’s Doreen Prei creates a seafood dish at the Sip and Savour tent July 23.

Sault Ste. Marie native Steven Furgiuele is the new Culina Mill Creek chef de cuisine, taking over from Christine Sandford who is in Spain. “Our weekly specials will focus on Calabrese and Mediterranean flavours along with Brazilian influences, my most recent fixation,” says Steven. “I will continue to expand on Culina’s use of local food producers and farmers.” Welcome to Edmonton, Steven!

wine tastings happenings and events Celebrate the 7th anniversary of the Italian Centre Shop South (5028 104 A Street) and the grand opening of Massimo‘s Restaurant at Festa Italiana, 11am - 4pm, Saturday, July 6. Experience food demos, a soccer tournament, Italian music and lots of family activities to enjoy. Mark your calendars for the East Meets West Festival at the little Italy store (5028 104A Street), Sunday, Aug 25. Rge Rd (10643 123 Street) opens first week of July, part of the burgeoning 124 Street culinary scene. Here’s two other opportunities to have a Rge Rd experience: July 7 at Riverbend Gardens with vegetable farmers Janelle and Aaron Herbert. This north Edmonton farm is always a delight as are Janelle and Aaron. Enjoy a farm tour, then a multi-course home-grown dinner with wine, Sunday, July 7, 5pm. The Rge Rd crew joins forces

Calgary’s City Palate Magazine is celebrating 20 delicious years, with 20 parties. One to note: on Saturday, August 17, enjoy brunch prepared by Top Chef Canada contender Nicole Gomes, and spend the afternoon at Kayben Farms. Tickets: $65/person, children $15, @kaybenfarms.eventbrite.ca

product news Zocalo (10826 95 Street, 780-428-0754) one of our favourite spots in little Italy, now offers sandwiches, soup and salads created by chef Susan Kellock. The menu changes daily, but there's always a fresh selection to choose from for under $6/item. The Italian Centre Shop’s new west end store (17010 90 Avenue) is now open, chock a block with Alberta and BC produce, European specialties, cheeses, and charcuterie. Check it out. The Iced Coconut Chai, $4.75, is back by popular demand at all Good Earth Cafes: Campus Tower (8623 112 Street), Edmonton City Centre (10205 101 Street), Government District (9942 108 Street), Scotia Place (10060 Jasper Avenue) and Summerside (936 91 Street). Looking for tortas? Citrus, foods for entertaining, home of the torta is not at the downtown market this year. If you need the delicious 30-second appetizer called the sun-dried tomato pesto torta for summer entertaining, email marybee@shaw.ca for custom orders. Send new and/or interesting food and drink related news for The Kitchen Sink to thetomato.ca.


turkey continued from page 7

grilled fish turkish-style

1-2 pieces white bread, torn into small chunks and softened in water.

Grill fish on a medium grill for about 10 minutes per inch.

1

egg, beaten

fillets:

oil for brushing

Brush with a mixture of fresh lemon juice, olive oil and salt and pepper while cooking lid down. No need to turn a fillet.

Mix lamb with the herbs and spices in large bowl. Add torn bread and the beaten egg by hand, distributing evenly. Do not overwork, or the meatballs could become tough. Break off a small piece of the lamb mixture and cook in a hot skillet to check seasoning. Add more salt if needed. Refrigerate if not forming right away. Take the meat out of the refrigerator and let warm for about 10 minutes. Preheat grill to 350ºF or prepare your charcoal. It’s ready when the coals have a light coat of ash, and you can hold your hand about 3 inches off the grill for about 4 seconds. Divide the mixture into 6-8 pieces, by dividing in half or thirds, then again to make sure each portion is the same size to cook evenly. Take each portion and, using your hand, shape along a flat skewer, making sure the meat is evenly distributed. Brush with oil and grill, turning once, until the lamb loses its pinkness and there is a nice crust on the exterior. Serve as part of a mixed grill, or in a pide, hot or cold.

whole grilled fish Fins Seafood will special order sea bass and bream. But let’s give the Mediterranean a break and buy fish from a little closer to home. Fresh sockeye salmon is in season until early August, when the wild coho start to run. Order a whole fish (head off ) which feeds about 10 people. Halibut is in season until fall. “Or special order whole Pacific snapper,” says Fin’s Seafood’s Matt Kingdon. “They are around two pounds apiece and will feed a family of four.” Fish is done when it loses translucency and flakes easily with a fork. Err to the under-done as it will keep cooking while you are taking it off the grill and plating.

whole fish: Stuff cavity with rosemary and thyme sprigs, a sprinkling of dried Aleppo pepper, a thinly sliced lemon, salt and pepper. To turn: use a fish basket or place tongs in the head opening, support the fish with a wide spatula in your other hand and quickly flip to grill the other side to make sure it cooks through.

have you been

Frenched?

www.themarc.ca • 780.429.2828

The Tomato editor Mary Bailey is a fan of her Weber charcoal kettle grill… that has never been stolen; it was just hidden under the plants.

In the search for Turkish flavour, I found the

Anatolia Food Market 15920 Stony Plain Road It has been open for a little over a year, and carries a wide variety of made-in-Turkey products. Find chopped, dried Aleppo peppers, nigella seed, jarred sweet peppers, Turkish honey, the double Turkish tea pot and Turkish coffee and pots.

VISIT US TODAY TO FIND ALL THE INGREDIENTS FOR YOUR FAVORITE SUMMER COCKTAILS!

6,000 wines, 2,500 spirits, 1,800 brews

Sofra Restaurant 10345 106 Street, 780-423-3044 Reservations required.

The Italian Centre Shops 10878 95 Street; 5028 104A Street; 170 Street and 90 Avenue are an excellent source for many of the Mediterranean specialty products mentioned, such as pomegranate molasses. The Bon Ton Bakery and Zenari’s also carry Nefiss olive oil.

WINDERMERE 6276 Currents Drive SHERWOOD PARK 7000 Emerald Drive

The Tomato | July August 2013 33


according to judy

| judy schultz

File under G On a lovely June morning, the gods of organization dropped me on my head. It was a Friday, and I was making a batch of Madhur Jaffrey’s delicious appetizer shrimp thingies, when I was waylaid by a missing ingredient: two teaspoons garam masala. Normally, I run an organized kitchen. Organization is the key to success, whether it’s a stock portfolio or the mise en place for a recipe, and I know I have garam masala somewhere. I bought it on a recent swing through Little India. But where oh where, now that I need it?

780.458.4777 • info@unwined.biz www.unwined.biz • 2, 512 St. Albert Trail

In my spice shelf I found 18 small, labelled bags. Peppercorns, celery seed, turmeric, that sort of thing. Also seven or eight jars/ bottles/ tins of more exotic stuff, dried galangal, prik pon and so forth. A dozen different salts, including two I actually use, table salt and kosher, plus nine vastly overpriced versions collectively known as finishing salts: smoked salt, black kala namak, New Zealand grinder salt, etc. There were also five small plastic bags of various powders and seeds, unlabelled. No garam masala. I buy my spices in small amounts and use them while they’re fresh. My theory of spice disposal: if, after three months, you haven’t used the powdered xuxu-root you bought from the Rolex-wearing witch doctor in that never-beforevisited-by-tourists Amazon village, throw it out. But these mini-containers are a plague. No sooner do I have a pot of chili on the burner than my chili powder disappears, and I have to fake it with some god-

34 July August 2013 | The Tomato

awful mixture of cinnamon, cumin, coriander and smoked paprika. A batch of hermits? Can’t find the nutmeg. Nutmeg, which I buy whole, is roughly the size of a quail’s egg. How could I lose it? What I need is a sniffer dog, like the little beagle that rummages through my bag in New Zealand customs. He does it every time, hoping to catch me with major street drugs or an illegal apple. He’s rewarded with a Scoobie Snack every time he sniffs out a criminal. Apparently the dog is worth $40,000. Unable to afford my own sniffer dog, I designed a four-part organizational plan. Part One: invest heavily in spice jars with lids. I stocked up on four dozen jars at Ikea. They thought I was opening a kitchen shop. Part Two: print out spread-sheet for spices. When I see the list of one dozen salts, ten of them overpriced and underused, maybe I’ll stop buying the stuff. Part Three: shelve alphabetically, because the success of any organizational plan depends upon actually following it. Part Four: after removing garam masala from its appointed spot, re-shelve in exactly the same spot. Under the G, for garam. It shouldn’t end up where I eventually found it, days later, in the shelf reserved for tea and tea bags. But there it was, garam masala. Bold as brass. At the time, I was looking for Bengal Spice Tea. It’s the tea with the tiger on the label. It’s gone missing. Judy Schultz divides her time between New Zealand and Alberta. Her next book is “A Year in Two Kitchens.”


Thank you PaRticiPants, attendees, volunteeRs and sPonsoRs Because of you, the Indulgence event has raised more than $200,000 for Junior League of Edmonton children’s programs and $30,000 for the NAIT Indulgence Slow Food Edmonton Culinary Bursary so far. Tickets for Indulgence ’14 go on sale May 1, 2014. Restaurants

Producers

4404 Restaurant (Delta Edmonton South)

Belle Valley Farm Alpaca

Wineries & Breweries

Café de Ville

Berry Ridge Orchard

Alley Kat Brewery

Coal Lake Honey Farm

Barr Estate Winery

Doef ’s Greenhouses

Birds & Bees Organic Wine Farm & Meadery

Culina Muttart Edmonton Petroleum Club Kitchen by Brad Smoliak LUX Steakhouse + Bar Madison’s Grill (Union Bank Inn) NAIT School of Hospitality & Culinary Arts

Four Whistle Farms

Black Cloud Winery

Full Course Strategies

Black Hills Estate Winery

Greens, Eggs & Ham

Calliope Wines

Gull Valley Greenhouses

Cellar Hand Wines

Irvings Farm Fresh Berkshire Pork

Desert Hills Estate Winery Domaine Pinnacle

Mona Food Distributors Morinville Greenhouses

Henry of Pelham Family Estate Winery

Nature’s Green Acres

Malivoire Wine Company

Red Ox Inn

The Newget Kompany

Select Restaurant

Progressive Foods Inc.

Mount Boucherie Estate Winery

The Manor Casual Bistro

Shelstar Farms

The Marc Restaurant

Spring Creek Ranch Premium Beef

XIX Nineteen Noorish Conscious Eatery & Superfood Elixir Bar

TZiN Wine & Tapas Urban Diner

Sundog Organic Farm

Peller Estates Quails’ Gate Estate Winery Red Rooster Winery Road 13 Vineyards Sandhill Wines

vivo ristorante

Sunworks Farm

Von’s Steak House & Oyster Bar

Sylvan Star Cheese

Tinhorn Creek Vineyards

Tangle Ridge Ranch

Vineland Estates Winery

Zinc Restaurant

The Cheesiry

Wild Rose Brewery

indulgenceedmonton.ca

Summerhill Pyramid Winery

@indulgenceyeg


LeCreuset.ca

DINNERWARE

THE PERFECT COMPLEMENT TO ANY KITCHEN

Barb’s Kitchen Centre 9766 – 51 Avenue NW 780-437-3134

Bella Casa 9646 – 142 Street 780-437-4190

Cookware | Bakeware | Dinnerware | Accessories

Hillaby’s Tools for Cooks The Enjoy Centre 101 Riel Drive, St-Albert 780-651-7373

The Pan Tree 550 – 220 Lakeland Drive 780-464-4631

Zenari’s 10180 – 101 Street NW 780-423-5409

Tomato Food and Drink July/August 2013  

Tomato Food and Drink July/August 2013

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