Alejandra catalán Liana yedidiya Manuela Proaño
Index 1. Context, history and Environmental scan 2. Objectives and strategy 3. Audience and messages 4. Customer análisis 5. Internal Análisis 6. Competitor Analisis 7. Functional Análisis 8. Economic Análisis 9. Relational Análisis 10.Morphologic Análisis 11.Conclusion 12. Bibliography
1 CONTEXT MARC JACOBS What’s happened before? What’s the history? Marc Jacobs was born in New York City. He attended the High School of Art and Design in New York City and graduated in 1981. He lived in Teaneck, New Jersey with his mother, sister and younger brother, and attended Teaneck High School. At fifteen, Jacobs worked as a stockboy at Charivari, an avantgarde clothing boutique in New York City. From there, Jacobs entered Parsons The New School for Design in New York City. At Parsons, Jacobs won the Perry Ellis Gold Thimble Award in 1984 and in the same year was also awarded the Chester Weinberg Gold Thimble Award and the Design Student of the Year Award. Still at Parsons, Jacobs designed and sold his first line of hand-knit sweaters. He designed his first collection for Reuben Thomas, Inc., under the Sketchbook label. Following his studies at Parsons, Jacobs began to design at Perry Ellis. Jacobs became prominent on the fashion scene when he designed a “grunge” collection for Perry Ellis, leading to his dismissal in 1993. With Robert Duffy, Jacobs formed Jacobs Duffy Designs Inc., which continues to this day. In 1986, backed by Onward Kashiyama USA, Inc., Jacobs designed his first collection bearing the Marc Jacobs label. In 1987 Jacobs was the youngest designer to have ever been awarded the fashion industry’s highest tribute, The Council of Fashion Designers of America
(CFDA) Perry Ellis Award for New Fashion Talent. Jacobs and Duffy joined the women’s design unit of Tristan Russo in 1989 as Vice President and President, respectively. In addition, Jacobs oversaw the design of the various women’s licensees. In 1992, the Council of Fashion Designers of America, once again priced Jacobs with a great honor: The Women’s Designer of the Year Award. In 1994 he produced his first full collection of menswear. Jacobs is a prominent fixture in the New York City celebrity scene, having become something of a celebrity himself. The audience for his fashion shows typically includes celebrities like Kim Gordon and Vincent Gallo. Most of his collections make references to the fashions of past decades from the forties to the eighties. Disputing the claim by the designer Oscar de la Renta that Jacobs is a mere copyist, the New York Times Critic Guy Trebay has written “unlike the many brandname designers who promote the illusion that their output results from a single prodigious creativity, Mr. Jacobs makes no pretense that fashion emerges full blown from the head of one solitary genius”. Explaining his clothes, Jacobs has said “what I prefer is that even if someone feels hedonistic, they don’t look it. Curiosity about sex is much more interesting to me than domination. … My clothes are not hot. Never. Never.” In May 2009, Jacobs hosted the ‘Model and Muse’ themed Metropolitan Museum of Art Costume Institute Gala in New York with supermodel Kate Moss. In 1997, Jacobs was appointed Creative Director of luxury French fashion house, Louis Vuitton, where he created the company’s first ready-to-wear line. Jacobs is famous for collaborating with many popular artists for his Louis Vuitton collections. Vuitton has worked in conjunction with Stephen Sprouse, Takashi Murakami and most recently American artists Richard Prince and Kanye West. Nowadays Marc Jacobs remains the Creative Director for Louis Vuitton.
Environmental scan What are the key factors that will affect its success? What is the media saying?
Marc Jacobs can make anything cool. Whether it's grunge clothing or graffiti bags, heâ€™s a proven expert at following his inspiration and making it happen. As the creative director for Louis Vuitton, he ushered in the company's first line of readyto-wear products and has tripled their gross revenue to a staggering figure of more than $3 billion annually. His signature company, Marc Jacobs International, boasts over 100 stores worldwide, averages almost $500 million per year and has spawned additional lines like Marc Jacobs Menswear and Little Marc Jacobs. To top it off, Jacobs has even had successful forays into fragrance and shoes.!! The list of accolades for Marc Jacobs is extensive. Aside from being the youngest professional to win the Perry Ellis Award for New Fashion Talent, he has also won the Council of Fashion Designers of America Award for Womenswear Designer of the Year multiple times. In addition, he won the CFDA's 2009 International Award and a pair of honors from the Fragrance Foundation. In conclusion, the man knows what he's doing. Alexandra Shulman, editor of Vogue, agrees that his influence is staggering. "Marc is one of the great contemporary fashion talents," she says. "He has pitch-perfect style which he can translated into a handbag range for Vuitton or T-shirts for his Marc line. He seems to be able to pin down cool again and again without being alienating." Jacobs's understanding of contemporary culture also sets him apart as a designer. While some designers concentrate on fabric swatches, Jacobs is a fervent consumer of culture at all levels. The Parisian townhouse where he lives is stuffed with original artworks of Andy Warhol, Francis Picabia, Elizabeth Peyton and Ed Ruscha. Meanwhile, one of his 29 tattoos depicts the cartoon character Spongebob Squarepants, and he was the first designer to embrace the MySpace age: he had his own page and posted updates on his personal life.
The future remains bright for Marc Jacobs. While there have been murmurings about the designer's desire to one day replace Karl Lagerfeld at Chanel and his chain-handled bags and quirky tweed skirt suits betray this ambition, it's unlikely that Lagerfeld will retire any time soon. It is believed that with the financial of Louis Vuitton behind him, Jacobs could do anything. So what is Marc Jacobs recipe for success? He is popular among people of the show business. Charity work with Lil' Kim as an ambassador for the Door, a non profit organization that deals with health, education, law, issues has helped too.
2 OBJECTIVES AND STRATEGY What is the objectives and the strategy of Marc Jacobs brand? " it's almost a social thing. People hang out, talk and they might buy something. There always want something new" Robert Duffy (2005) » Trying to reach to a big and different variety of his crowd by making few lines like- marc jacobs, marc by marc jacobs, marc jacobs kids... making lots of collaborations with others companies in order to make now products that will atract new clients. such as a collaboration with Vans ( Fall 2004) : he whipped up a variety of limited-edition, $85 sneakers and woung up selling 1,400 pairs. Surfboard emblazoned with images of various countries' national flag and retailing for about $550 produced by Md Dog Surf. Condoms, playing cards, sleeping bags and beanbag chairs are some of the short-lived product that have made a splash with Marc by Marc Jacobs shoppers.
Marc Jacobs fostered a unique following at Fashion Week 2010, with behind-the-scenes tweets from President Robert Duffy and live online streams of its shows. In addition, Marc Jacobs partnered with geo-tagging company Foursquare during Fashion Week, challenging enthusiasts to “check-in”and unlock badges at any of the Marc by Marc Jacobs stores in New York. With diffusion lines Marc by Marc Jacobs and Little Marc, the designer has been able to recruit a loyal Gen Y following. To buttress its street cred in the New York community, Marc Jacobs is opening of a bookstore in Greenwich Village. Marc Jacobs has also been among the first top-tier designers to embrace online distribution through popular “Members’ Only” flash sites including Gilt Groupe. The brand recently announced that it is launching DTC ecommerce.
Marc jacons usually uses celebrities and a-list people to promote his collections. Using celebrities, not models. Moreover, Marc jacobs tries to make more limited edition ítems to create a more unique style for his brand. Each store sells difierent ítems, has a different internal decoration. Different stories. Making the customer feel differently each time. Marc Jacobs future plans:
–Surf on the image of Marc Jacob's as a fashion reference to multiply special items.
a cosmetic line which who be coherent with the clothe collections : a daily box, everything you need for one day… Develop a luggage line as the handbags are a major hit since the product category was launched.
3 AUDIENCE AND MESSAGES Marc Jacobsâ€™s audience consists of young people who want to be different in the way they dress yet being fashionable and very stylish. In between those people there are many actresses, actors, singers, and many other types of celebrities. Most of those celebrities have become very good friends with Marc Jacobs; they include Sofia Coppola and Rachel Feinstein, the twins Olsen, Ann Hathaway and Scarlett Johansson. The kind of people who wears Marc Jacobs is The downtown crowd with eclectic or edgy tastes, also including Winona Ryder, Uma Thurman, the Olsen twins, Drew Barrymore, and Maggie Gyllenhall. This brand targets people from high economical background who are in between young adulthood (Ages 20 to 37). Major emphases throughout this phase are typically oneâ€™s career, achievements, status, power, money, and acceptance of financial responsibility. This means that people in this life stage are going to search for all of this characteristics plus differentiation in which they can become young trendsetters, and that is what Marc Jacobs is offering them.
The message that this fashion brand had delivered to its public is itâ€™s modernity, innovative, a young New Yorker style, and a very underground sense. It makes people feel part of the new generation of Fashion, the latest of the latest. He always wants to visually translate the clash and noise of the music (Pearl Jam and Nirvana) into pattern and color, sending his audience a message of art and music through his brand, maintaining it in the luxury market. "Itâ€™s about a constant re-celebration of what turns us on : youth, vitality, freedomâ€Śnot in this pining for the past way, but again just constantly celebrating that its energy is still relevant." Marc Jacobs.
4 CUSTOMER ANALYSIS WHAT IS THE CUSTOMER THINKING ABOUT THE BRAND?
The enthousiasm around his brand could be limited in time, as the number of existing fashion brands are increasing every year. Fierce competition on the market. The customer could get bored at a time and switch to another brand. The popular diffusion label Marc by Marc Jacobs could on the long run damage the success of the Marc Jacobs line ( the top line), as it is sometimes already overshadowing it. However the customer is attracted by marc jacobs for its many types of items and the different prices it offers. The clients of marc jacobs are trying to buy the brand itself. The marc jacobs bag, shirt. There are different types of buyers. To start with we have the high customers. They go and find quality in the clothes, modern style look and cool new yor style. Secondly, we have the middle customers which go on for the brand. The bag, the purse or any other accesorie at a lower price but still feeling as buying a high quality brand. So we could define its target from 20 years to 40. Marc jacobs is new, young, modern and has great communication tools which makes the customer buy all the time. The way the stores are organised and divided, the localization of the stores helps too. It motivates all types of different customers making them feel as if what they are buying is cool and new stuff.
5 INTERNAL ANALYSIS Brand Philosophy! Marc Jacobs is a designer with global influence; his designs have transformed the way a generation of young women dress. His brand is known for luxury, exquisite tailoring but also an unconventional twist, which makes him so different. The Marc Jacobs label has long been associated with products of the highest quality and this also extends to the fragrance collection. “Fragrance, like fashion, is meant to express a strong personal style”. !Marc Jacobs fragrance is « his style in the bottle ». Brand values: Timeless luxury – Subtle elegance – Understated Cool
6 COMPETITOR ANALYSIS STRENGTHS MARC JACOBS is a well known designer and his work at Louis Vuitton increases the visibility of his own brands and support his name as a fashion must-have. People want to buy the brand for its values and intangible assets. Marc Jacobs has a good positioning in terms of price and availability: high priced product for Marc Jacobs line and limited distribution for retail stores owned by LVMH and some other department stores. The brand has good trends assessment: the launch of new product categories at the good timing (kids wear collections, watchesâ€Ś); also a good financial support and leverage as being a part of the LVMH Group. Brand Image Marc Jacobs is a very strong brand that is very popular among celebrities and people form the show business, making it more powerful. It is a brand that tries to go out of normal things seen in other brands. This fashion house values are almost unreachable by others. This is why it partnership with LVMH making the brand more powerful and influential over people. Vulnerabilities Their collections are too similar at some points: the style of some dresses (inspired by the sixties'), the pattern (colors stripes).
A young design is created by the brand; target customer is between 16 and 40 for the clothes. As the seniors that have money represent a market that seems neglected by the brand. These people are numerous and have a strong purchasing power in our western countries.
Finally it can be said that the popularity of the brand lies on one name, one man, Marc Jacobs in person. Another vulnerable point is that they might have no control of the image and the message conveyed by the brand when having too many In between Marc Jacobs’s top competitors is Calvin Klein Inc., Donna Karan International Inc., Tom ford, and Alexander McQueen. All the these three before mentioned are well known fashion brands that have simply elegant clothes for men, women, and children, as well as fragrances and accessories and are in the group of the most well known fashion labels.
• Calvin Klein Inc.: This firm was founded in 1968 by Barry Scwartz and Calvin Klein. They make their flagship ready-to-wear collection of women's clothing, but gets most of its revenue from licensing its name for items such as shoes, jeans, underwear, hosiery, watches, bedding, tabletop products, and furniture. They own or license namesake stores worldwide, as well. • Donna Karan International Inc.: Launched it’s first collection in 1985, achieving success very quickly with it’s comfortable, classic and sexy styles. The firm designs and sells men's and women's clothes, including suits, sportswear, accessories, and shoes, under the Donna Karan New York, DKNY, DKNY
Jeans, and DKNY Active labels. DKI sells to upscale department and specialty stores and through its own retail stores. It also licenses third parties to run most of its international stores. â€˘ Tom Ford: The designer as young, had worked for Gucci, Yves Saint Laurent assuming the position as Creative director. After his period working for those big brands, he created his own brand. Now he has a strong recognition as a designer. His professional team is composed by: Ford for design, De Sole for management and Semeghini for sales expertise and merchandising.
â€˘ Alexander McQueen: He was very famous for his extravagant designs and runways full of spectacle. This brand always tries to make the difference. Alexander McQueen was one of the largest British designers. In the beginning he was known by the "hooligan" of the English fashion,
7 FUNCTIONAL ANALYSIS Relation between brand image and product Marc Jacobs is a popular, chic but cool brand which tries to arrive to the “new target”. His image is innovative, with agressive ad campaigns. Pop and art are mixed within its collections. Modern and with an affordable price, Marc Jacobs has achieved a top position in the fashion industry. Jacobs shows how he Works, the good vibrations in the company. Young and really powerful. That´s the image we get from the brand. Once we go to the store and see the real World of the brand, the ítems and prices we can get the feeling we thougth about. All the store itself shows Marc Jacobs image. The products are good quality, resistant and the design is strong. When someone is wearing a Marc Jacobs bag it´s easy to recognise it. The products we find are showing the brand.
8 ECONOMICAL ANALYSIS
Marc Jacobs Price range: Ready to wear Dresses 250- 4000$ Accessories Bags 195- 1295$ Men’s ready to wear Jackets 2500$ eyewear 345-275$
MARC by Marc Jacobs price range: rtw mbmj 18-798$ rtw man mbmj 28-898 $ woman show bags and accessorise 28-498$ man 28-498 $ sunglasses 98-140 $ watches 150-250 $ Special Ítems price range: 5- 1785 $ Little Marc Jacobs price range: girls 22-107$ boys 37-8$
9 RELATIONAL ANALYSIS MJ Fashion house is always in the most important fashion shows worldwide showing their new collections. Moreover, he launches new items continuously; therefore, he is in the spot for media appearances. Parties, fashion shows, press conferences, cocktails and meetings with influential people form part of his daily itinerary. His relationship with powerful people has given him credibility and therefore also power. Marc Jacobs has become an Idol even for celebrities. Thanks to his collaboration with LVMH Marc Jacobs has been able to achieve such success. Since then MJ brand is established in 7 major countries where fashion and styles a very important part of daily life. These countries are: China, USA, UAE, Taiwan, Malaysia, Japan, France that add more than 30 stores. LIFE STYLE This statement has leaded him to create a whole line of products that describe a lifestyle. His brand’s growth and collaboration with LVMH have made them produce new product categories such as: handbags, fragrance, eyewear, kids wear, and watches. The lifestyle his brand represents an “always young” feeling about life, being casual at all times but at the same time vey innovative and stylish, in this world where problems are not problems and parties are the main philosophy. This lifestyle has expanded even to Kids lifestyle with his new collection for Little Marc Jacobs.
10 MORPHOLOGIC ANALYSIS “ADVERTISEMENT” Marc Jacobs is always trying to surprise everyone. In the case of his ads, Jacobs tries to be different from the rest of brands, standing out. During 12 years, the photographer Juergen Teller has collaborated in his campaigns of woman, man, perfumes and accessories. Teller expose unknown models or famous celebrities in strange and uncommon situations. As an example we can see below the campaign where Victoria Beckham is inside a marc Jacobs shopping bag. Teller’s idiosyncratic visual style and use of unusual models has been instrumental in establishing what has become one of the preeminent fashion brands of our times Reflecting the intelligence and individuality of the Marc Jacobs’ brand, the models have included Sofia Coppola, Charlotte Rampling, Meg White, Kim Gordan and Thursten Moore, Michael Stipe, Rufus Wainwright, Harmony Korine, Cindy Sherman, William Eggleston, Samantha Morton, Winona Ryder, Roni Horn, Victoria Beckham and Juergen Teller himself among others…
11 CONCLUSION Marc Jacobs started as a small brand but became bigger and more powerful than many other brands thanks to their strategies and values. Marc Jacobs is a really big influence in the fashion industry and his relationships with powerful people has given him credability and social power not only in the fashion industry, he has his power in many other areas worldwide. Marc Jacobs is planning to make his brand bigger and for suiting for a wider crowd. Always developing new products for different people and in a wide price range. The brand is using new technologies to promote the Marc Jacobs brand, like Foursquare and other mobile applications. Marc Jacobs gives a young, modern image to the world. He makes his collections special creating a brand. Customers are buying the brand and not only clothes. His clients are not only clients but his friends. His style has amazed many people and he is now considered one of the best in the luxury market. Even if his competitors are very big fashion houses, no one compares to the style empire he has built. The brand image and the brand values that are represented in their ads are very coherent with their products and lifestyle they are selling, and the product prices are very rational taking into account all the assets that the brand has.
12 BIBLIOGRAPHY WWW.ALEXA.COM WWW.MARCJACOBS.COM WWW.WIKIPEDIA.COM WWW.GOOGLE.COM WWW.HARPERSBAZAR.COM WWW.STYLE.COM