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Adria Airways In-flight Magazine Vaš brezplačni izvod - oktober, november

Your personal copy - October, November 2012

Destinacija MÜNCHEN Destination Munich

ALEN KOBILICA SKRITE POTI, KI PRIPOVEDUJEJO ZGODBE / STORIES OF THE HIDDEN TRAILS GRAD ZAPRICE / ZAPRICE CASTLE MED BIZELJSKIMI VINOGRADI  / AMONG THE VINEYARDS of BIZELJSKO LjubljanSKI KINO PARADIŽ / LJUBLJANA'S CINEMA PARADISE EGIPT / EGYPT PRIJETNA ARHITEKTURA ZA JESEN ŽIVLJENJA / PLEASANT ARCHITECTURE FOR THE AUTUMN OF LIFE MED DVEMA SVETOVOMA / BETWEEN TWO WORLDS ZIP LINE / ZIP-LINING

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STEKLARNA ROGAŠKA d.d., Ulica talcev 1, 3250 Rogaška Slatina; foto: Iztok Nikolić, IZ+IV dizajn studio

ZA DUŠO IN AMBIENT. Creating sublime ambience with functional and decorative crystal pieces. Europe’s foremost crystal creator is the clear choice. S funkcionalnimi in dekorativnimi izdelki ustvarjamo in plemenitimo ambiente. Kristalno jasen izbor. Ljubljana Center, Mestni trg 22 Ljubljana BTC - Kristalna palača, Ameriška ulica 8 Koper, Čevljarska ulica 15 Rogaška Slatina, Ulica talcev 1

www.steklarna-rogaska.si


Telekom Slovenije, d. d., 1546 Ljubljana.

S SiOL TV izbirajte med vsemi tekmami UEFA Lige prvakov v živo in v HD!* *Velja za vse tekme na SiOL TV in Planet TV, skupaj 130 tekem. Za ogled tekem je potrebno naročilo dodatka SiOL Nogomet na SiOL TV ali na SiOL TViN-u, razen v primeru paketov TopTrio, TopTrio optika in TopTrio HD, ki SiOL nogomet že vključujejo. Naročilo je možno od 17. 9. 2012 dalje. V okviru SiOL TViN-a je naročilo dodatka SiOL Nogomet omogočeno vsem uporabnikom ob upoštevanju tehničnih pogojev, potrebnih za delovanje storitve, na območju Slovenije. Telekom Slovenije, d. d. si pridržuje pravico do sprememb cen in pogojev. Slike so simbolične. Za dodatne informacije, pogoje in cene obiščite www.siol.net/storitve in www.siol.tv, pokličite 080 8000 in 041 700 700 ali obiščite Telekomove centre in druga prodajna mesta Telekoma Slovenije.


PISMO / LETTER Spoštovane potnice, cenjeni potniki! Veseli me, da vas lahko v imenu vseh zaposlenih pozdravim na letalu Adrie Airways! Minilo je prvo leto, odkar smo se v Adrii lotili procesa intenzivnega prestrukturiranja podjetja. Cilj, ki smo si ga postavili, je, da bi do konca leta 2013 postali učinkovito, uspešno in dobičkonosno podjetje, ki bo zagotavljalo svojim potnikom učinkovite in hitre povezave med pomembnimi evropskimi mesti ter območjem jugovzhodne Evrope. Od prvih ukrepov, sprejetih poleti 2011 in usmerjenih predvsem v finančno prestrukturiranje podjetja, se je naša pozornost osredotočila na stroške in na komercialno področje. Skladno s tem postopoma ukinjamo letenje na linijah, ki ne prinašajo ustreznih finančnih rezultatov. Odraz vseh teh prizadevanj je dobro viden že v obdobju do konca avgusta in kaže na to, da se je zasedenost potniške kabine povečala za 4 odstotke v primerjavi z lanskim letom. Prav tako se je povečal prihodek od prodanega sedeža. V kolikor ste brskali po naših spletnih straneh, ste verjetno opazili, da smo vzpostavili novo spletno stran, ki je, tako vsaj upamo, prijaznejša do uporabnikov. Ponaša se s sodobno obliko in preglednejšo vsebino. Prav gotovo je to tudi razlog, da se je število obiskov podvojilo. Dovolite mi, da vas ob tej priložnosti opozorim še na ponovno uvedbo zimskega voznega reda, ki bo stopil v veljavo z 28. oktobrom in prinaša določene novosti. Točnejše informacije vam nudimo na strani, kjer so objavljene adrijske novosti, prav tako pa vas vabim, da si podrobneje ogledate vso našo ponudbo na www.adria.si. Kljub vsem aktivnostim, ki jih izvajamo v procesu racionalizacije, pa ostajata najpomembnejša elementa naše poslovne vizije varnost in kakovost. Zavedamo se, da potniki cenite tiste ponudnike, ki so poleg cene sposobni zagotoviti tudi varno in kakovostno storitev. To, da danes letite z nami, je dokaz vašega zaupanja. Želim vam prijeten let in kmalu na svidenje! Klemen Boštjančič, predsednik uprave

Fotografija: Irena Herak

dear passengers, I am pleased to be able to welcome you aboard this Adria Airways flight on behalf of all Adria employees.

It has been a year since we first started the process of intensive company restructuring. Our goal is that by the end of 2013, we will have become an efficient, successful and profitable company providing passengers with efficient and fast connections between major European cities and the region of Southeast Europe. The first measures, adopted in the summer of 2011, were aimed mostly at financial restructuring. Today we are focusing our attention on costs and the commercial area of business. In keeping with our plan, lines where we have not been seeing the desired financial results are gradually being terminated. The result of our efforts is reflected in the period up to the end of August, in which we saw a 4% increase in the number of passengers compared to last year. Additionally, we are seeing an increase in income on each seat sold.

If you have visited our website recently, you will have noticed that it has been updated to a new and, we hope, more user-friendly version distinguished by a modern layout and easily reviewable content. As a result, the number of visitors has doubled. Allow me to take this opportunity to draw your attention to the new flight schedule; in force from 28 October, it features several changes. For more information, turn to the page of news from Adria. For a more detailed overview of our offer, please visit our website at www.adria.si. In spite of all the activities in the rationalisation process, our business vision continues to focus on the two most important elements: safety and quality. We recognise that passengers value airlines that are able to offer a safe and quality service at an affordable price. The fact that you are flying with us today is evidence of your trust. I wish you a pleasant flight and hope to see you again soon.

Klemen Boštjančič, President of the Management Board & CEO 3


Adria Airways In-Flight Magazine Brezplačen izvod / Your personal copy Revija Adria Airways In-Flight Magazine je namenjena potnikom na poletih z Adrio Airways. Adria Airways In-Flight Magazine is complimentary on Adria Airways flights. Izdajatelj / Publisher: Adria Airways, Slovenski letalski prevoznik, d.d. Adria Airways, The Airline of Slovenia Zgornji Brnik 130h, 4210 Brnik – Aerodrom Urednica / Editor-in-chief: Barbara Mihevc Bukovec Tel. / Phone + 386 4 259 4541 E- mail: barbara.bukovec@adria.si Uredništvo / Editorial board: Alen Mlekuž Tina Jordan Sara Slodej Oglaševanje / Advertising: Alenka Dvoršak Tel. / Phone + 386 4 259 4526 E- mail: alenka.dvorsak@adria.si

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Naslovnica / Cover: Blaž Zupančič Oblikovanje in AD / Design and AD: IDEARNA d.o.o. Prevod / Translated by: Amidas Alkemist, prevajalske storitve d.o.o.

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Lektorica / Proofreader: Vera Samohod Fotoliti / Lithography: SET, d.o.o. Tisk / Printed by: Korotan – Ljubljana, d.o.o. ISSN 1318-0789 Mnenja, izražena v tej publikaciji, so zgolj mnenja avtorjev ali intervjuvancev in ne odsevajo nujno stališč Adrie Airways. Razmnoževanje brez pisnega dovoljenja je prepovedano. Izdajatelj ne prevzema nikakršne odgovornosti za nenaročeno gradivo. The opinions expressed in this publicationare those of the authors or persons interviewed alone and do not necessarily reflect the views of Adria Airways. Reproduction without written permission is prohibited. The publisher accepts no responsibility for unsolicited material.

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Vsebina Contents 40.

adrijin potnik / ADRIA PASSENGER

Alen Kobilica >>

Najprepoznavnejši slovenski model Slovenia's best known model Alen mlekuž

46. 58.

DESTINACIJA MÜnchen DESTINATION Munich sara slodej

blaž zupančič

Skrite poti, ki pripovedujejo zgodbe Trnovski gozd Stories of the hidden trails

The magical Trnovski gozd jože balas

80. ljubljanski kino paradiž, Od začetnih do zlatih časov kinematografov Ljubljana's cinema paradise, From the beginnings to the golden Era of cinema

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Muzej, kjer je shranjena večtisočletna zgodovina Kamnika zaprice castle

The museum where several thousands years of Kamnik's history is kept polona zupančič

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blaž zupančič

med bizeljskimi vinogradi in repnicami

arhiv MNS

86. egipt Egypt Gorazd dominko

Anja čop

92. prijetna arhitektura za jesen življenja Domovi za starejše: trije primeri iz Slovenije pleasant ARCHITECTURE for the autumn of life Homes for the elderly: three cases from Slovenia

grad zaprice

klemen žun

nada šerbelj

miran kambič, arhiv

98. Med dvema svetovoma

oaza dunhuang Between two worlds The oasis of Dunhuang

jože balas

106. Svoboden kot ptica Zip line z eno najdaljših prog v Evropi

free as a bird Zip-lining on one of Europe's longest tracks

carmen leban

iztok dimc

Among the vineyards and root cellars of bizeljsko marjan žiberna

boštjan pucelj

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Novosti - news poletni vozni red in napoved zimskega voznega reda Adrijin poletni vozni red je v veljavi le še do 27. oktobra 2012. V njem vam Adria Airways nudi polete iz Ljubljane na 15 različnih destinacij po Evropi. Štirikrat dnevno leti v Frankfurt, trikrat dnevno na Dunaj, v München in Zürich. Ljubljano povezuje trinajstkrat z Brusljem, Skopje enajstkrat in Moskvo osemkrat tedensko. V Amsterdam, Istanbul, Prištino in Tirano leti sedemkrat na teden, šestkrat v Beograd, petkrat v Sarajevo in trikrat v Koebenhavn in Podgorico. S koncem poletnega voznega reda se postopoma zaključujejo tudi poletne redne povezave z Barcelono in Manchestrom. Redni poleti med Prištino in Frankfurtom ter Münchnom in Verono ostajajo v veljavi do konca poletnega voznega reda, in sicer šestkrat tedensko v Frankfurt, petkrat v München in dvakrat v Verono. V zimskem voznem redu, ki se pričenja z 28. oktobrom in bo trajal vse do konca marca 2013, bo Adria opravila 169 rednih tedenskih letov na 15 destinacij iz Ljubljane in 3 iz Prištine. Adrijina letala bodo letela v Amsterdam, Beograd, Bruselj, Istanbul, na Dunaj, v Frankfurt, Koebenhavn, Moskvo, München, Podgorico, Prištino, Sarajevo, Skopje, Tirano in Zürich.

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Summer flight schedule and winter flight schedule announcement The Adria Airways summer flight schedule only remains valid until 27 October 2012. As part of the summer schedule, Adria is offering flights from Ljubljana to 15 destinations across Europe. There are four flights daily to Frankfurt and three flights daily to Vienna, Munich and Zurich, as well as thirteen flights a week to Brussels, eleven a week to Skopje, eight to Moscow, seven to Amsterdam, Istanbul, Pristina and Tirana, six to Belgrade, five to Sarajevo and three flights a week to Copenhagen and Podgorica. As the summer flight schedule comes to an end, so do the regular summer LjubljanaBarcelona and Ljubljana-Manchester lines. Regular flights between Pristina and Frankfurt, Munich and Verona will continue until the summer flight schedule expires; there are six flights a week to Frankfurt, five to Munich and two to Verona. The winter flight schedule, valid from 28 October until the end of March 2013, will see Adria operate 169 regular weekly flights to 15 destinations from Ljubljana and 3 destinations from Pristina. Adria's planes will fly to Amsterdam, Belgrade, Brussels, Istanbul, Vienna, Frankfurt, Copenhagen, Moscow, Munich, Podgorica, Pristina, Sarajevo, Skopje, Tirana and Zurich.

S pomočjo trdnega članstva v svetovnem globalnem združenju Star Alliance ohranja Adria Airways svojo poslovno politiko mrežnega prevoznika, ki ponuja globalno storitev. Članice združenja Star Alliance opravijo dnevno več kot 21.500 letov na 1.356 letališč v 193 državah.

Thanks to its secure membership in Star Alliance, the global airline association, Adria Airways is able to maintain its business policy of a network airline offering global services. Star Alliance members operate over 21,500 flights a day to 1,356 airports in 193 countries.

Za vse, željne toplih krajev, tudi pozimi organiziramo v sodelovanju s turističnimi agencijami čarterske lete v priljubljeni počitniški destinaciji v Egiptu  – Sharm el Sheik in Hurgado.

For people missing the sunshine, we will continue to work with travel agencies this winter to provide chartered flights to two popular holiday destinations in Egypt, Sharm el Sheikh and Hurghada.

Revija Adria In-Flight Magazine nagrajena V Ljubljani je 20. septembra že tretjič potekala mednarodna strokovna konferenca POMP Forum 2012. Tema tokratne konference je bil vsebinski marketing. Podjetja in z njimi posamezne blagovne znamke se v današnjem času soočajo z novimi komunikacijskimi izzivi in možnostmi, ki ga je prinesel sodoben način življenja. Kako bodo posamezna podjetja sprejela te izzive in jih znala vgraditi v novo komunikacijsko okolje za doseganje čim boljših poslovnih ciljev, je vprašanje, na katerega so odgovarjali uveljavljeni tuji strokovnjaki in pojasnjevali, kako, kdaj in zakaj vsebinski marketing deluje. Na konferenci so bile predstavljene tudi najboljše slovenske korporativne revije in tokrat tudi prvič nagrajene. Od približno 500 korporativnih revij, kolikor jih danes izhaja v Sloveniji, je bilo šest posameznih medijev nagrajenih s področja vsebinskega marketinga. Med prvimi nagrajenci se je znašla tudi naša revija Adria In-Flight Magazine, saj je s svojim dolgoletnim stažem – nastaja že 24 let – ter z lepo, zanimivo in vsebinsko bogato zasnovo izvrstna korporativna revija, ki je lahko vzor marsikateremu podjetju tako doma kot v tujini.

Award for the Adria In-Flight Magazine The third POMP Forum 2012 international conference was held in Ljubljana on 20 September. The focus of this year's conference was on content marketing. Companies and individual brands continue to face new communication challenges and opportunities arising from the modern way of life. How will individual companies take on the challenge and will they be able to integrate it into a new communication environment to achieve top business goals – this was the question addressed by renowned international experts, who also discussed the subject of how, when and why content marketing really works. The conference also saw a presentation of Slovenia's top corporate magazines and an introduction of awards for the best magazines. Out of some 500 corporate magazines being published in Slovenia today, 6 publications received awards in the field of content marketing. One of the first recipients was our Adria In-Flight Magazine, whose long history – the magazine was first published 24 years ago – and its well-designed, interesting and diverse content make it an excellent corporate magazine that could serve as an example for many companies in Slovenia and abroad.


AKTUALNO - latest OFFERS Ujemi ugoden polet ...

Adria Airways Special Offers!

Na vseh Adrijinih rednih linijah imamo ugodne ponudbe po načelu »Kupi prej, potuj ceneje«. Da bi našo ponudbo še bolj približali vašim potrebam, imamo na voljo znižane cene potovanj tudi med tednom.

Special offers are available on all of Adria’s scheduled services on a “buy early, fly for less” basis. To make our services even more attractive, reduced fares are available for travel during the week.

Adrijine E-novice

Adria E-news

Vabimo vas, da obiščete naše spletne strani www.adria.si in se prijavite na Adrijine E-novice. S tem boste enkrat mesečno obveščeni o naših novostih in posebnih ponudbah. E-novice bodo za vas vir dragocenih informacij in idej pri načrtovanju potovanja ali počitnic.

Why not visit our website www.adria.si and subscribe to Adria’s E-news service? Once a month you will receive updates on new services and special offers – straight to your inbox! This means that E-news will be a valuable source of information and ideas when you are planning a journey or holiday.

Naj bo obveščenost vaša prednost!

Let information be your advantage!

Pri nas niste le prtljaga

We Won't Treat You Like Luggage

Za jesenske dni smo vam pripravili posebno ponudbo z imenom »Pri nas niste le prtljaga«, kjer vam nudimo, da poletite z nami iz Ljubljane v obdobju od 10. novembra do 16. decembra in od 10. januarja do 24. marca 2013 že za ceno od 99 EUR dalje. Cena velja za povratna potovanja na direktnih poletih Adrie Airways, ki mora biti tudi dejanski prevoznik (letališke pristojbine in druge dajatve ter strošek spletne rezervacije so že vključeni v ceno). Pogoj je, da ostanete na destinaciji čez vikend ali vsaj 3 dni . Nakup je možen od 1. do 31.oktobra 2012 na prodajnih mestih ali preko spleta na www.adria.si. Zgoraj navedena cena ni na voljo na vseh letih in datumih, prav tako je število mest na posamičnem letu omejeno.

For this autumn, we have prepared a special offer called "We Won't Treat You Like Luggage". The offer includes flights from Ljubljana in the period from 10 November to 16 December and from 10 January to 24 March 2013 starting from just EUR 99. The price applies to return journeys on direct Adria Airways flights where Adria is the flight operator (airport taxes, other fees and the cost of online booking are included in the price). The offer is subject to the condition that you remain at the destination over the weekend or no fewer than 3 days. Ticket purchases can be made from 1 to 31 October 2012 at Adria Airways points of sale or online at www.adria.si. The above price is not available for all flights on all dates. The number of seats on individual flights is limited.

Vabimo vas, da si več o ponudbi in posameznih pogojih ogledate na naši spletni strani.

Please visit our website for more information about the offer and the terms and conditions.

© Corbis/IPAK Images

Pridružite se nam na Facebooku Join us on Facebook http://www.facebook.com/AdriaAirways

amsterdam – LJUBLJANA – skopje od from

299 EUR

bruselj – LJUBLJANA – priština od from

249 EUR

Sledite nam na Twitterju Follow us on Twitter http://twitter.com/adria_airways

frankfurt – LJUBLJANA – sarajevo od from

299 EUR

dunaj – ljubljana –

tirana od from

249 EUR

Vse navedene cene veljajo za povratna potovanja na Adrijinih poletih in vključujejo vse ostale dajatve razen stroška rezervacije. Število ponujenih sedežev po tej ceni je omejeno. Ponudba velja v času trajanja veljavnosti In-flight Magazina. The prices listed above are for Adria Airways return flights and include all taxes and fees except booking fees. There is a limited number of seats avaliable at this price; the offer is valid for the time the In-Flight Magazine is valid or longer.

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Wherever my photo shoots take me, I can earn miles, and spend them taking my family with me. Across 27 member airlines, all on one card. I’ve earned it.

Annie Griffiths, National Geographic Photographer and Star Alliance Gold Status

sta ra llia nce.com

Ta oglas je zaradi ohranitve neposrednosti in avtentiÄ?nosti besedila in ker je besedilo zlasti namenjeno tujim bralcem, natisnjen v angleĹĄkem jeziku.


Fructal d.d., Tovarniška cesta 7, 5270 Ajdovščina

SADNA OSVE O N ŽIT DE EV E L ruc www.f tal.si


www.jadran.si

Podarite Baci, podarite poljub.


Os

. . . v e t i 탑 e v

PIVOVARNA UNION D.D. | WWW.PIVO-UNION.SI | CIRKUS


REGIONALNA DESTINACIJSKA ORGANIZACIJA REGIONAL DESTINATION ORGANIZATION

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lagodejno delovanje vode, masaž, toplega zraka, sončnih žarkov, aromatičnih olj in soli… so odkrili že tisočletja pred nami. Danes s znanjem, izkušnjami in iskrenim veseljem naše goste razvajamo na »stare« in nove načine v termah, hotelih in salonih dobrega počutja. Da si okrepite telo in duha, vas povabimo vas na igrišče za golf, od koder se odpirajo prelepi pogledi na Ptuj ter griče Haloz in Slovenskih goric. Na »konjskem hrbtu« ali kolesu se podajte okoli Ptujskega jezera, ki s svojo velikostjo preseneti vsakega obiskovalca, ptičje petje iz ornitološkega parka pa doni v ušesih še dolgo potem. Bolj zahtevni se boste podali v zelene Haloze in sončne Slovenske Gorice, za lagodno raziskovanje pa so idealne »prijazno ravne« poti Ptujskega in Dravskega polja, pa ob Dravi vse do Ormoža in Središča. Željnim izzivov ponudimo polet z letalom ali balonom, na trdna tla se lahko vrnete tudi s skokom v tandemu s padalom. Na Ptujskem morju vas čakajo jadrnice, kajaki in kanuji, deskanje in edini wake park daleč naokrog. Prijetno utrujene od vsega lepega vas po Ptujskem jezeru popelje turistična ladja, po Ptuju, Ormožu, Makolah in Poljčanah pa turistični vlakec. Najlepši zaključek doživetij polnega dne pa je romantična vožnja s kočijo na Jeruzalem! Prelepi pogledi božajo oči in dušo ne glede na izbrani način, vaše moči pa povrnejo tradicionalne in sodobne dobrote, ki jih posebej za vas z ljubeznijo pripravijo naši kuharski mojstri, brbončice pa do konca razvadijo slastna vrhunska vina iz priznanih kleti! Dobrodošli v rajski deželi ob Dravi – v destinaciji v PtujJeruzalem Ormož-Haloze-Slovenske gorice!

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eneficial effects of water, massage, hot air, sun rays, aromatic oils and salts were discovered thousands of years ago. It is our great pleasure to spoil our guests in all possible ways, ancient or modern, in the spa or hotel and salons, as long as it is about the strengthening of body and soul. That is why we shall invite our guests to join in at the golf course from where exceptional views of the old town core and the castle can be enjoyed. Or, you may want to rent a bike and ride around the artificial lake which is quite surprising when it comes to its size. Birds singing, particularly strong in the park of Šturmovci, will echo in your ears for a long time still. You may wish to cycle right to the green hills of Haloze or to sunny Slovenske Gorice hills, which are a bit more demanding than generous flat plains of Ptuj and Drava fields. If you feel tired near the lake, just wait for the next boat shuttle which will take you to town. But if you are a bit more daring, you will wait for a hot-air balloon or a glider to show you around. Views are breathtaking and after a ride you will have to restore yourself in one of the numerous taverns or inns offering, besides exceptional meals, their own production of wines. Wine tasting can also be organised in one of many tourist farms or in Slovene Jerusalem.

www.visitptuj.eu www.visitjeruzalem-ormoz.eu www.visithaloze.eu www.visitslovenskegorice.eu Rezervacije / Booking: Ptujske vedute E: ptuj@vedute.si T: +386 2 778 87 80 Terme Ptuj E: info@terme-ptuj.si T: +386 2 74 94 100

foto: Ciril Ambrož, Matija Brodnjak, Vid Ponikvar, arhiv RDO, arhivi partnerjev RDO, Aljoša Videtič, Črtomir Goznik, Rado Škrjanec, Aleš Fevžer, arhiv projekta Vinocool


ADRIA AIRWAYS

Vse, kar vas zanima o letalstvu V tokratni številki odgovarja kapitan Iztok Kavčič na zanimivo vprašanje, kako nevarni so trki ptic in letal.

Fotografija: Jože Kovačič

Ptice, predvsem tiste, ki so spretne letalke, predstavljajo letalcem sinonim za letenje. Občudujemo njihovo sposobnost jadranja in se ne moremo načuditi, kako spretno izkoriščajo termične vzgornike, ko brez posebnega gibanja kril prepotujejo razdalje in pridobivajo višino. Včasih, ko želimo izraziti, kako spreten je kdo od pilotov, rečemo, da »leti kot ptica«.

Fotografija: Rok Belič

V slovenskem prostoru jadralni piloti pogosto letijo – jadrajo s svojimi elegantnimi jadralnimi letali skupaj s pticami, kot so orli, sokoli, kragulji, kanje in druge ujede, ki niso prav nič plašne in se počutijo kot gospodarji »svojega« neba. Včasih se celo zgodi, da ta del svojega sveta branijo z napadanjem jadralnega letala, kar pa se za ptice zaradi trka ne konča vedno najbolje. Do trka s pticami prihaja tudi pri potniških letalih. Piloti se zaradi velike hitrosti potniških letal tem trkom ne moremo izogniti. Večinoma se trki dogajajo v prostoru v bližini letališč in na nižjih višinah. Letališča, predvsem v velikih mestih, so s svojimi velikimi travnatimi površinami oaza z obilico hrane za vse vrste ptic, tudi ptic selivk, ki v velikih jatah oblegajo letališča v času migracije.

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Everything You Wanted to Know About Aviation Morda ste slišali za primer izpred dobrih treh let, ko je letalo pri poletanju z letališča v New Yorku vletelo v jato gosi. Po odpovedi obeh motorjev sta pilota z odličnostjo izvedla manever pristajanja na reki Hudson. Mislim, da je to edini primer v potniškem prometu, ko je prišlo zaradi ptic do popolne odpovedi obeh motorjev. Seveda so poškodbe odvisne od velikosti in količine ptic, ki priletijo v letalo oziroma motor. Večje ptice, kot že omenjene ujede, so za letalo nevarnejše, vendar tudi redko sekajo pot letala. Večinoma pri trku z letalom le delno poškodujejo trup letala, če pa vletijo v motor, le-ta povsem ne odpove. Poškodbe so navadno takšne, da lahko nadaljuje let in ga varno zaključi s pristankom. Izdelovalci letal, predvsem letalskih motorjev, namenijo veliko inženirskega časa in denarja za raziskovanje vpliva udarcev ptic. Prednji deli letala in vetrobranska stekla v kokpitu, ki so najbolj izpostavljeni, so ojačani in tako prilagojeni, da v primeru trka s ptičem ne pride do poškodb oziroma da so le-te čim manjše. Letalske motorje preizkušajo na testih pri polni moči delovanja tudi s tem, da vanje izstreljujejo večje zamrznjene ptice. Tak letalski motor mora kljub poškodbam še vedno delovati v mejah strogih standardov. Glede na rezultate testov nato izdelovalci motorjev po potrebi prilagodijo konstrukcijo motorja in s tem zagotovijo varnost potnikov in letala. Svoj delež pri preprečevanju trkov ptic z letali opravijo tudi letališča. S pravilno tempirano košnjo trave omogočajo, da je na travnikih čim manj semen in mrčesa, hrane, ki privablja ptice. Uporabljajo tudi avdio-vizualne pripomočke, ki plašijo ptice in jih s tem odganjajo z letališč. Na nekaterih letališčih, pred leti tudi na ljubljanskem, občasno uporabljajo za plašenje ptic trenirane sokole, ki so s svojo prisotnostjo strah in trepet manjšim pticam. Vam in pticam želim čim bolj miren let in vas do naslednje številke lepo pozdravljam. Kapitan Iztok Kavčič, vodja flote Airbus P. S. Kaj pa vas zanima o letalstvu? Vaša vprašanja pričakujemo na elektronskem naslovu inflightmagazine@adria.si.

In this issue, Captain Iztok Kavčič answers the interesting question of how dangerous a collision between a bird and an aeroplane really is. Birds, particularly the species that excel at flying, are seen by pilots as a synonym for flying. We admire their gliding skills and are endlessly fascinated by their ability to take advantage of thermal columns in order to travel long distances and gain altitude while hardly moving their wings. If we want to emphasise a pilot’s skills, we sometimes even say that he/she “flies like a bird”. In the Slovenian airspace, glider pilots can often be found flying their elegant gliders – soaring through the air with birds such as eagles, falcons, hawks, buzzards and other birds of prey, none of which are particularly shy and all of which like to behave as masters of the sky. Sometimes they even try to defend this part of their world by attacking the glider, but these collisions tend to end badly for the birds. Bird strikes can also happen with passenger planes. Because they travel at very high speeds, pilots are unable to prevent such collisions. Most bird strikes happen in the vicinity of airports and at lower altitudes. The expanses of grass surrounding an airport are a veritable oasis for birds, providing them with an abundance of food, particularly when it comes to airports near large cities. They attract all species of birds, including migratory birds, which descend on airports in large numbers as the time for migration approaches. You may have heard of a case about three years ago when a plane was struck by a flock of geese seconds after taking off from an airport in New York. After both engines gave out, the two pilots expertly landed the plane on the Hudson River. I believe that that is the only case in passenger air travel history when a bird strike caused both engines to break down completely. Obviously the damage depends on the size and number of birds that collide with the aeroplane or the engine. Larger birds such as the birds of prey

mentioned above pose a greater danger for the plane, but it is also very rare for them to encounter a plane. Most of the time, birds only cause slight damage to the fuselage if they collide with a plane; if they strike an engine, it does not give out completely. Most of the time, any damage caused allows the plane to continue the flight and to land safely. Aeroplane manufacturers and manufacturers of aeroplane engines in particular spend a lot of time and money researching the effects of bird strikes. The front parts of the plane and the cockpit windows – the most exposed parts – are reinforced and modified to minimise the potential for damage in the event of a collision. One of the ways in which aeroplane engines are tested is by running them at full thrust and firing large frozen birds at them. Even if damaged, these engines must continue to operate within the limits prescribed by strict standards. Based on the test results, engine manufacturers modify the engine structure in order to ensure the safety of the plane and the passengers on it. Airports also do their share to prevent birds colliding with planes. By mowing the grass at the right intervals, they reduce the amount of seeds and insects to be found in the meadows, thus minimising the attraction for birds. They also use audiovisual devices to scare birds away from the airport. At some airports – the Ljubljana airport was one of them until some years ago – they even use trained falcons, whose very presence is enough to drive fear into any smaller birds. I wish you – and the birds – a calm and pleasant flight. See you in the next issue. Captain Iztok Kavčič Airbus Fleet Chief Pilot P. S. What would you like to know about aviation? Send us your questions to the email address inflightmagazine@adria.si.

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ADRIA smo ljudje

Jože Kovačič,

kopilot na letalu CRJ-200/900 in ljubiteljski fotograf letalstva BESEDILO: Sara slodej Fotografije: jože kovačič

Kljub stereotipnim predstavam o racionalnih pilotih, ki so zelo tehnično in naravoslovno usmerjeni, med »letalci« nemalokrat odkrijemo prave umetniške duše. Presenečenje ali pa tudi ne. Včasih namreč tudi piloti zaradi narave svojega dela, tako kot pesniki, ustvarjajo ponoči in spijo čez dan. Juice je takšna umetniška duša. Vzdevek je izpeljanka iz njegovega imena Jože. V Juicejevih krajih – v Prlekiji – se ime Jože uporablja tudi v skrajšani obliki Juš. V gimnazijskih časih pa mu je sošolec ime spremenil še iz Juš v Juice. Ta vzdevek se je potem prijel in ga uporablja še danes. Juice nosi v sebi umetniškega duha, pri svojem delu pa je tudi zelo kritičen, natančen in zahteven do sebe in drugih. Pravi perfekcionist, kar se odraža tudi na njegovih fotografijah. Resneje se je začel ukvarjati s fotografijo pred sedmimi leti, ko je še delal kot pilot v vojski. Kot vojaški pilot je imel možnost posneti fotografije, ki so bile zaradi vojaških letal in helikopterjev atraktivne same po sebi. Letalska tehnika v vojski je mnogim nedostopna, Juiceu pa je bilo skozi delo zelo enostavno najti motive in posneti zelo privlačne fotografije. Če se je le dalo, si je med delom vzel trenutek za fotografiranje. Kot pravi, je začel z zelo enostavnim digitalnim fotoaparatom, ki ga danes verjetno dobiš v trgovinskem centru za nagrado, ko zapraviš več kot 10 evrov. Nekaj fotografij je seveda uspelo in tako si je zaželel boljše opreme in še več dobrih posnetkov. Fotografija letalstva je nadgradnja ljubezni do poklica, logično nadaljevanje? Vsekakor. Za letalstvo in z njim živim praktično vsa svoja leta. Kljub temu pa je ves ta čas prisotna še ena iskra, ki mi ne da miru. To je umetniški duh, ki traja že od osnovne šole dalje. V gimnaziji sem sodeloval tudi na mednarodnih likovnih tekmovanjih. Tako zdaj prepletam motive v fotografiji s trenutnim poklicem. Kot ljubitelju letalstva, v katerem sem že več kot 20 let, mi je ta tematika zelo pri srcu. Povezana je s tem, kar čutim. Ne fotografiram letal in tega okolja le zato, ker je to zame kot pilota priročno, ampak mi je to dejansko zelo privlačno. Včasih pri svojem delu pogrešam produkt. Zelo so mi všeč poklici, ki ustvarjajo izdelke. Zahvala in zadovoljstvo potnikov sta odlična motivacija za delo, včasih pa mi je manjkalo tisto, kar doživlja na primer mizar, ki izdela svoj produkt – končni izdelek, na katerega je lahko ponosen. Zdaj mi fotografija prinaša ta del in dopolnjuje moj poklic.

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V čem se razlikuje pogled na letala skozi fotografski objektiv od pogleda iz pilotske kabine? Težko je potegniti ločnico. Ko sem začel pred štirimi leti delati v Adrii Airways, sem v službi vsak dan videl neskončno veliko motivov. S časom ta romantika morda malo zbledi, motivi pa so se začeli ponavljati: enaka letališča, bela letala. Takrat sem moral začeti gledati drugače, bolj z občutkom. Ni bil več dovolj le navaden pogled iz pilotske kabine. Da najdeš motiv, ki bi bil lahko privlačen tudi za druge, moraš videti nekaj več. Verjamem, da je tam zunaj še ogromno zanimivih motivov, kljub temu pa se moram zdaj, ko to počnem že nekaj časa, bolj potruditi, da jih najdem. V začetku kariere v Adrii Airways so bili vsi letalski motivi zame res skoraj čarobni. Vsa ta tehnika, ogromna letala čisto od blizu ... fascinantno. Te romantike je z leti res malo manj, so pa vedno prisotni posebni trenutki, in takrat hitro potegnem fotoaparat iz torbe. Kje te spremlja fotoaparat? Je gledanje s fotografskim očesom iz hobija že preraslo v način življenja? V tem trenutku je fotografija zame morda še vedno hobi, čeprav mogoče zahtevajo določeni projekti celo nekaj več časa, kot si v začetku predstavljaš oziroma koliko časa si vzameš. Fotoaparat, če se le da, vzamem s sabo. To pomeni tudi dva ali tri kilograme dodatne teže. Žal mi je samo takrat, kadar določenega trenutka ne ujamem v objektiv, ker nimam pri sebi fotoaparata. Fotografija je po drugi strani način življenja. Ker je moja služba – letenje – način življenja, je pravzaprav tudi fotografiranje letal način življenja.


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ADRIA smo ljudje Kaj je zate pravo bistvo fotografije? Sporočilo, zgodba in čustva, ki jih fotografija vzbudi pri naslovniku, ali kompozicija in barve? Narediti dobro fotografijo, pomeni na nek način ujeti pravi trenutek, ki ga lahko doživiš ali pa ne. Dobra fotografija se od ostalih loči po tem, da ima dušo. Najprej mora fotograf začutiti motiv in zadihati s fotografijo. Niso dovolj le prava kompozicija, barve, tudi neki posebni motivi ne, temveč to, da zaživi celotna fotografija v povezavi z vsemi temi elementi. Da fotografijo začutiš, da ne vidiš zgolj nekega objekta na papirju, ampak doživiš fotografijo. Fotografije torej ne vidiš zgolj kot dokument, predstavitev trenutka v času in prostoru, ampak jo doživljaš kot način izražanja, umetnost, gledanje na svet, sporočanje svojih pogledov, vizij, motivov? Kompozicija vsekakor mora biti, lahko se tudi uporabi tako, da se z njo še bolj izrazi bistvo fotografije. Preko kompozicije dobiš izraz, ki ga fotografija kaže. Vendar pa nikakor ne vidim motiva le v tehničnem smislu. Vedno želim, da je fotografija nekaj več kot le dokument. Želim, da se dotakne, da te ustavi. Fotografija mora imeti zgodbo, dušo. Vse to iščem pri fotografiranju – pri enem samem lahko posnamem tudi od 300 do 500 fotografij, na koncu pa sta le dve ali tri ustrezne, da lahko potem nekaj ustvarim. Takrat se zares začne proces; njegov najslajši del je delo na terenu, ko vidiš motive, trenutke, ko si zunaj in uživaš v fotografiranju. Ko pa prideš domov in vse skupaj postaviš na računalnik, se začne trdo delo. Koliko obdeluješ posamezne fotografije? Kaj meniš o manipulaciji v sodobni fotografiji? Kot se je pred časom razvijala razprava, ali se bo ob digitalni fotografiji obdržala film fotografija, je zdaj vprašanje, ali je digitalna fotografija, kjer so možnosti obdelave fotografije številne, to še fotografija ali že grafika. Nekateri so privrženci čiste fotografije, ki je takšna, kot jo poslikaš v danem trenutku, nekateri pa so privrženci grafične obdelave, kjer lahko iz fotografije nastane tudi že ilustracija. Sam izbiram neko srednjo pot. Kljub obdelavi želim, da ostane fotografija in ne ilustracija. Vedno želim ohraniti prvinskost posnetka, kljub temu pa rad poudarim ostrino, barve, ki pritegnejo gledalca in na ta način še bolje govorijo zgodbo. Mejo pa si postavljam vedno sproti. Vsaka fotografija je zgodba zase. Eno fotografijo lahko ustvarjam tudi cel dan ali celo nekaj dni. Pogosto se dogaja, da moraš fotografijo tudi prespati, jo pustiti nekaj dni ali

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celo kakšen mesec pri miru. In potem jo vidiš na drugačen način, nekaj drugega zaznaš v njej. To je proces. Ni neke meje za posamezno fotografijo, vedno je odvisno od trenutka, motiva, tudi od tega, komu ali čemu je namenjena. Vem pa, da sem že šel kdaj predaleč pri obdelavi fotografij, vendar mi je všeč, da se ljudje sprašujejo o njej, tudi o tem, ali je obdelana ali ne. Želim, da ljudje razmišljajo o fotografiji, zadihajo z njo, ne da jo le gledajo. Nikoli ne skrivam oblikovanja fotografij. Kakšna je zate dobra fotografija in katera je tista, ki bi jo označil za najboljšo? Opazujem odlične fotografije kolegov fotografov in se poskušam postaviti v položaj fotografa, ko je poslikal eno takih dobrih fotografij. Razmišljam o tem, v kakšni situaciji je bil, o čem je razmišljal, kaj je videl, kako je nekaj videl, kako je prišel do določenega pogleda. In razmišljam, kaj bi naredil sam.

Zelo so mi všeč letala v pristajanju skozi meglo, ko na koncih kril nastajajo vrtinci. Da posnameš dobro fotografijo takšnega trenutka, moraš biti v pravem trenutku na pravem mestu. In seveda imeti pravo, vrhunsko opremo. Takšne fotografije mi na primer še ni uspelo narediti. To je moj cilj. Še vedno me zelo privlači vojaška letalska fotografija. Iz vidika fotografije mi je na nek način celo žal, da zdaj, ko se ukvarjam s fotografijo, delam v civilnem letalstvu in ne v vojaškem. Na tem področju je zanimivih in vznemirljivih pogledov ter motivov še veliko več. Pri letenju v vojski je več neformalnega pristopa, v civilnem pa so vse procedure, faze letenja predvidene vnaprej, ni prostora za improvizacijo. V vojaškem letalstvu pa je zaradi drugačnega letenja, nepredvidenih, včasih težkih situacij prisotnega več nekega posebnega naboja, ki ga v civilnem letalstvu ni. Takšni trenutki proizvajajo te posebne motive za fotografijo.


Jože Kovačič, CRJ-200/900 Co-Pilot and Aviation Photography Enthusiast text: sARA SLODEJ Photography: JOŽE KOVAČIČ

Despite the stereotypes about pilots and their rational, technical, scientific nature, there is many an artistic soul to be found amidst the clouds. Is this really a surprise? The nature of their work means that, much like poets, pilots sometimes find themselves creating at night and sleeping during the day. Juice is one such artistic soul. His nickname comes from his real name, Jože. In Juice's native region – Ljutomer and Prlekija – the name Jože is often shortened to Juš. And then one of his classmates in secondary school renamed him from Juš to Juice. The nickname has stuck until today.

Although Jože is full of creative spirit, he is highly critical, precise and demanding of himself and others when it comes to his work. A true perfectionist – something that also comes through in his photographs. He became more seriously involved in photography seven years ago, when he was still working as a pilot in the army. As an army pilot, he had many opportunities to take photographs that were fascinating in terms of the army planes and helicopters if nothing else. Most people don't have access to army aircraft, but for Jože it was easy to find new subjects through work and take interesting and appealing pictures. Whenever it was possible, he took a few moments from work so he could take some photographs. His first camera, he

says, was one of those basic digital models that you probably get as a gift for spending over EUR 10 in a supermarket nowadays. But still, some of the photographs came out well and made him want to have better equipment and take more interesting pictures. Is aviation photography a continuation of the love you feel for your profession, the logical next step? Absolutely. I have been living and breathing aviation virtually my entire life. But there has always been another spark in me, something that wouldn't go away. I have had an artistic spirit ever since primary school. In secondary school, I took part in a few international art contests. Today, I use my profession

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ADRIA is about people to find themes and subjects for photographs. As a huge fan of aviation and as someone who has worked in the field for over 20 years now, this is my favourite subject. It is connected with what I feel. I don't take pictures of aeroplanes and this world just because it is handy for me as a pilot, but because I actually find it so appealing. Sometimes I miss the final product in what I do. I love professions that actually make something. The gratitude and satisfaction of passengers are great motivators, but I used to miss the experience of someone like a carpenter, someone who makes a final product that he can be proud of. That is the pleasure I get from photography now; it completes my profession. What is the difference between looking at aeroplanes through a camera and looking through the plane cockpit? It is difficult to separate the two. When I first started working at Adria Airways four years ago, I noticed endless potential photography subjects every day I was at work. This romantic view has faded slightly with time; the views have started to repeat themselves – the same airports, the same white aeroplanes. That's when I knew that I had to start looking at things differently, with more feeling. It was no longer enough simply to look through the plane cockpit. If you want to find a subject that other people will also find appealing, you have to look deeper. I still believe that there are endless interesting subjects for photography out there, but now that I've been taking pictures for a while, I have to try harder to find them. At the start of my career with Adria Airways, I found the many aviation motifs around me almost magical. All this technology, giant aeroplanes from up close ... I was fascinated. The romance fades slightly as the years pass. But there is still a special moment now and then, and I'm always ready with my camera. Where do you bring your camera? Has looking at things through a camera lens developed from a hobby into a way of life for you? At this moment, I would say that photography is still a hobby, although some projects can take up more of my time than I had initially imagined or planned. I always bring my camera if at all possible. It means 2 to 3 kg of extra weight, and I usually regret taking it with me. On the other hand, I quickly forget about the extra weight, but I never forget about the moments that I couldn't capture in a photograph because I didn't bring my camera. Photography is a way of life as well. Since my job – flying – is a way of life, I suppose that photographing planes is a way of life also.

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What do you see as the essence of photography? Is it the message, story and emotions that it communicates to the observer, or is it the composition and colours? In a way, taking a good picture means catching the right moment that you can either experience or not. What sets a good photograph apart is that it has soul. The first thing for a photographer to do is to feel the subject and breathe with the picture. It takes more than just the right composition, colours or particular themes. You need the right combination of these elements that will bring the photograph to life. You have to feel the photograph, not just see it as an object on paper but actually experience it. You don't see a photograph as a mere document, a representation of a specific moment in time and space, then; you see it as a way of expressing yourself, as art, a world view, a way to communicate your views, visions and themes? Well, you still need a good composition; you can even use composition to emphasise the essence of a particular photograph. The expression of a photograph comes through composition. But I definitely see more than just the subject in the technical sense. I always want a photograph to be more than just a document. I want it to touch you, to stop you in your tracks. A photograph should have a story, a soul. That is what I look for when taking pictures. I can take up to 300 or 500 photographs during a single session and end up with just 2 or 3 pictures that I can actually make something of. That's when the process starts, really. The best part of the process is working in the field, when you spot a potential subject; all those moments when you're outdoors and just enjoying taking pictures. When you get home and transfer them to your computer, that is when the hard work starts. To what extent do you process your photographs? How do you feel about digital manipulation in modern photography? There was a debate some time ago whether film photography would survive alongside digital photography; now the question is whether digital photography with all the processing possibilities is still photography or whether it is graphics. Some people believe in pure photography, in keeping pictures exactly the way they were when you took them, while others prefer graphic processing to an extent that almost turns a photograph into an illustration. I've chosen the middle

ground. I do some processing, but I still want my work to remain photographs rather than turn them into illustrations. I always want to preserve the primeval character of a photograph, but I also like to enhance the sharpness and colours to attract the viewer and tell the story better. I tend to set the limits as I go along. Each photograph is a story in itself. I can work on a single picture for a whole day or even several days. It's often a good idea to sleep on a picture and to leave it alone for a few days, sometimes even a whole month. When you come back to it, you see it in a different way, you sense something new in it. It is a process. There is no general rule for all photographs – it always depends on the moment, the subject, even the person or purpose that the picture is intended for. But it has happened before that I went too far with processing. I like to keep people guessing about a picture, including about whether it has been processed or not. I want people to think about a photograph, to breathe with it rather than just look at it. I never hide my photography process. In your opinion, what makes a good photograph? What would you describe as the best photograph? I look at all the great pictures taken by my fellow photographers and I try to put myself in the shoes of a photographer who has taken one of these pictures. I imagine the situation they were in, what they were thinking about, what they saw and how they saw it, how they found a specific view. Then I try to put myself in the same situation and think about what I would have done. I love aeroplanes landing in the fog, when you can see vortices forming at the wing tips. If you want to take a good picture of this moment, you have to be in the right place at the right time. And have the right kind and quality of equipment, obviously. I haven't managed to take a picture of that yet. It's one of my goals. I still find army aviation photography very appealing. When it comes to photography, I even regret it in a way that I work in civil aviation rather than army aviation now that I'm into photography. There are so many interesting and exciting views and subjects in the army. Flying for the army is more informal, while civil aviation is full of procedures and every stage is planned in advance, so there is no room for improvisation. It's different in the army; there are more unpredictable and difficult situations that create a special tension that is just not there in civil aviation. It's those kinds of moments that make for the most interesting themes in photography.


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ADRIA AIRWAYS

Adria Flight Carreer Center

Adria Airways letalska šola BESEDILO: SANDI KNEZ, direktor in odgovorni vodja AFCC FOTOGRAFIJE: Miro majcen

Adria Airways letalska šola je v septembru praznovala 32-letnico svojega obstoja. Šola, ki sicer navzven ne kaže nobenih atributov klasičnega šolskega poslopja, nosi bistvo svojega poslanstva v znanju, izkušnjah in usposobljenosti inštruktorjev, ki svoje znanje z veliko mero entuziazma prenašajo na mlade rodove. Po nekaj letih zatišja na področju zaposlovanja novih pilotov je globalna letalska industrija zopet na pragu največjega pomanjkanja pilotov doslej. Velika podjetja, kot sta Boeing, Airbus in podobna, predvidevajo glede na vplačana naročila novih letal in na planirane upokojitve zaradi starostne meje za poklicne pilote, da bo globalno letalstvo potrebovalo do leta 2030 preko 460.000 novih poklicnih pilotov. To je v povprečju več kot 25.000 letno, 40% od tega pa zajema azijska regija. Zagotovo je to sedaj pravi čas za vse, ki razmišljajo o šolanju za poklicne pilote na potniških letalih. Obenem pa je to velika priložnost za organizacije, ki se ukvarjajo s takim usposabljanjem. V Adrii smo se že pred časom začeli zavedati, kako pomembno je načrtno in usmerjeno vzgajanje pilotov od prvih korakov naprej, zato je bila v sodelovanju s Fakulteto za strojništvo iz Ljubljane že leta 1980 ustanovljena Letalska šola Adrie Airways. Namen šole je bil jasen že ob njeni ustanovitvi:

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šolati pilote na manjših letalih, da pridobijo poklicno licenco. Šola se je uspešno razvijala vse do osamosvojitve Slovenije v devetdesetih letih, ko se je Adria znašla v težki ekonomski situaciji in so se potrebe po novih pilotih zmanjšale. Samo velikemu entuziazmu nekaterih posameznikov in njihovi prepričanosti v pomembnost obstoja šole gre zahvala, da je šola nadaljevala svoje delo in poslanstvo vse do današnjih dni, se preoblikovala v hčerinsko družbo Adrie Airways in začela pod okriljem nove blagovne znamke Adria Flight Carreer Center (kratko AFCC) tržiti svoje znanje. Šola se nahaja na brniškem letališču, kar predstavlja zaradi ugodne geografske lege odlično izhodišče na lokalnem trgu pa tudi izjemno dobro izhodišče za povezave z regionalnimi trgi, kot je na primer Balkan, in globalnimi trgi, kot sta Zahodna in Vzhodna Evropa ter Bližnji vzhod, in širše, saj ima letališče na Brniku že vzpostavljene povezave z večjimi mesti v regiji in širšem globalnem okolju.


Naša vizija je, da bi AFCC postal eden izmed vodilnih kariernih centrov za celotno letalsko osebje, tako v regionalnem kot širšem okolju. V načrtu imamo razviti se v prilagodljiv in odziven center celovite ponudbe specifičnih izobraževanj in usposabljanj na področju letalske industrije kot tudi center, ki bo povezoval potrebe letalske industrije s tistimi, ki si želijo v njej delovati. Zavedamo se, da je uresničevanje teh nalog možno le s kvalitetnimi, strokovnimi in dostopnimi programi izobraževanja in usposabljanja pilotov, kabinskega osebja, letalskih dispečerjev, mehanikov, predavateljev itd. Pri tem želimo s svojim poslanstvom v AFCC pomagati letalskemu osebju pri pridobivanju potrebnih strokovnih znanj in jih povezati s podjetji, ki potrebujejo in iščejo tako usposobljene kadre. Vrednote, ki smo se jim pri postavitvi AFCC zavezali in na katerih temelji naše delo, so naslednje: • visoka strokovnost, ki se kaže v visoko strokovno usposobljenem kadru ter njegovem profesionalnem odnosu do klientov in ki je z dolgoletnimi izkušnjami v mednarodnem letalskem prometu produkt lastnega izobraževalnega in operativnega procesa; • odličnost, saj se zaradi lastnih izkušenj zavedamo, da so usposabljanje, izobraževanje in osebna odličnost temelj bodoče kariere letalskega osebja; • varnost, s tem da stalno delujemo v okvirih visokih varnostnih standardov in nenehno obvladujemo tveganje; • odgovornost, ker se zavedamo pomembnosti odgovornega ravnanja v povezavi z vsemi aktivnostmi, ki jih združuje letalska industrija; • dostopnost produktov, storitev, programov usposabljanja in naših inštruktorjev, predavateljev in ostalega osebja našim klientom; • zanesljivost, saj je storitev usposabljanja plod 30-letnih izkušenj v usposabljanju letalskega osebja in 50-letnih izkušenj v mednarodnem zračnem prometu; • prilagodljivost, s katero se v največji možni meri prilagajamo potrebam kupcev; • celovitost programov usposabljanja, ki je ključnega pomena pri izbiri organizacije usposabljanja s strani kupca, saj ena organizacija ponuja celotno usposabljanje na enem mestu pod isto streho.

Danes imamo v Adrii Airways približno 90 odstotkov pilotov, ki so svoje usposabljanje za poklicnega pilota pridobili ali vsaj dopolnili v domači letalski šoli. Lahko bi rekli, da je v poklicnem smislu Adria Airways letalska šola »zibelka« večine Adrijinih pilotov.

V izobraževalni proces želimo vključiti kar največ sodobnih tehnoloških rešitev s tega področja, da bi zagotovili kar najvišjo možno kvaliteto naše storitve. Tej viziji sledimo z načrtom posodobitve vseh tehničnih sredstev šole, kamor sodijo tako novi sodobno opremljeni prostori kot tudi simulator, predvsem pa nova letala. Zavedamo se, kako pomembno je celovito in kvalitetno šolanje, ki že od osnovnega usposabljanja za zasebno pilotsko licenco temelji na filozofiji in postopkih kasnejšega linijskega letenja. To vodilo smo upoštevali pri nakupu treh novih najsodobnejših šolskih letal PS-28 Cruiser, ki so opremljena s t. i. »Glass Cockpitom« – digitalnimi prikazovalniki podatkov o letu – ter z njihovo postavitvijo in načinom upravljanja najbliže tistemu na potniških letalih. Letala PS-28 Cruiser so sodobne in privlačne oblike, lahko upravljiva, hitra in odzivna, z odlično vidljivostjo iz kabine. Za osnovno šolanje so že na voljo vsem interesentom, ki jih želijo najeti ali pridobiti zasebno pilotsko licenco. Ob nadaljevanju šolanja za poklicno licenco pa predstavljajo lahek prehod na upravljanje večjih letal. Vsa osnovna, profesionalna in tekoča usposabljanja izvajamo na lokaciji letališča na Brniku. Kadar je potrebno, se določena usposabljanja izvedejo na alternativnih lokacijah, kot v primeru Type Ratingov, kjer se odvija usposabljanje na lokaciji simulatorja letenja, ali v primeru izvedbe določenih programov izobraževanja, kjer se uporabljajo tudi ostala letališča v regiji in sosednjih državah.

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ADRIA AIRWAYS

Adria Flight Career Centre

Adria Airways Flight School text: SANDI KNEZ, CEO and Accountable Manager of AFCC photography: Miro majcen

The Adria Airways Flight School celebrated its 32nd anniversary in September. Outwardly, the school does not possess any of the attributes of a traditional school, but in essence its mission is the same: it has knowledgeable, experienced, qualified instructors who are enthusiastic about sharing their knowledge with the younger generations. After a few years' gap in employing new pilots, the global aviation industry is nearing its greatest shortage of pilots yet. According to large companies such as Boeing and Airbus, based on the submitted orders for new aeroplanes and the planned retirement of professional pilots reaching retirement age, the global aviation industry will need over 460,000 new professional pilots by 2030. On average, that is more than 25,000 new pilots a year, 40% of which will be needed in Asia. For people thinking of training to be a professional passenger plane pilot, there is no doubt that this is the right time to do it. At the same time, this is also a great opportunity for organisations offering pilot training. At Adria, we recognised some time ago how important it is to offer planned, targeted pilot training from the very first step onwards. The Adria Airways Flight School was established in 1980in cooperation with the Faculty of Engineering in Ljubljana. From its first moment onwards, the school's purpose

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was clear: to train pilots in small aeroplanes so they can obtain a professional licence. The school was extremely successful until Slovenia gained its independence in 1991 and Adria suddenly found itself in a difficult economic situation. The demand for new pilots reduced drastically. It is only thanks to the unwavering enthusiasm of a few individuals and their continued belief in the importance of the school that the Adria Airways Flight School has continued its work to the present day. On the way, it was transformed into an Adria Airways subsidiary, now marketing its knowledge under a new brand name: Adria Flight Career Centre (AFCC). The school is situated at the Brnik airport – a suitable geographical location for the needs of the local market and an excellent base for connections with regional markets such as the Balkans, as well as global markets such as West Europe, East Europe, the Middle East and others, since the Brnik airport already has well-established links to larger cities in this and other regions.


It is our vision for the AFCC to become one of the leading flight crew career centres, both regionally and globally. Our plan is to develop into a flexible, responsive centre offering a comprehensive range of specific education and training in the field of aviation. Moreover, we want the AFCC to become a centre that connects the aviation industry's needs with the individuals who want to work in it. We recognise that we can only achieve these plans through quality, professional and accessible education and training programmes for pilots, cabin crew, flight dispatchers, mechanics, lecturers, etc. Our mission at the AFCC is to help flight crews attain the necessary professional skills and knowledge and to put them in contact with companies that are in need of qualified human resources. Since the AFCC was established, we have been committed to this set of values on which all our work is based: • a high level of expertise that comes through in our highly qualified staff and their professional attitude to clients; this expertise is a product of our own process of education and operation, as well as of long years of experience in international air traffic; • excellence; we know from our own experience that training, education and personal excellence are the best foundations for a future career in aviation; • safety; we operate in compliance with strict safety standards and place great emphasis on risk management; • responsibility; we recognise the importance of acting responsibly when it comes to any activity within the aviation industry; • the accessibility of products, services, training programmes, instructors, lecturers and other staff to our clients; • reliability; our training services are based on 30 years of experience in flight crew training and 50 years of experience in international air traffic; • flexibility to our clients' needs whenever possible; • comprehensive training programmes; when it comes to clients choosing a training organisation, it is essential for a single organisation to offer comprehensive training services under one roof. We endeavour to integrate as many modern technological aviation solutions as possible in the education process in order to offer the highest quality services. To keep up with our vision, we have drawn up a modernisation plan for the school's technical resources, which includes newly renovated premises with the latest equipment, a simulator and, most importantly, new aeroplanes.

Some 90% of the pilots working at Adria Airways today either trained as a professional pilot or complemented their training at the Adria Airways Flight School. You could say that in a professional sense, the Adria Airways Flight School is the birthplace of most Adria pilots.

We recognise the importance of a comprehensive, quality education that is based on the philosophy and procedures of airline flying even when it comes to basic training for a private pilot's licence. This is what guided us in the purchase of three PS-28 Cruisers, the latest training planes equipped with a "glass cockpit" – digital flight data displays – as well as in choosing the configuration and piloting mode closest to those of passenger planes. The PS-28 Cruiser aeroplanes have a contemporary and attractive shape, they are easily controlled, fast and responsive, with excellent visibility from the cockpit. The planes are already available for basic training for anyone looking to rent them or obtain a private pilot's licence. For pilots who decide to continue training for a professional licence, it is easy to progress from the PS-28 Cruiser to larger planes. All basic, professional and current training is conducted at the Brnik airport. If necessary, individual training sessions are conducted at alternative locations, e.g. in the case of type ratings, where training is conducted in a flight simulator, or in the case of specific training programmes that involve the use of other airports in the region and neighbouring countries.

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UMETNOST IN KULTURA / ART & CULTURE

LJUBLJANA Od 7. do 18. novembra

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From 7 to 18 November

23. ljubljanski mednarodni filmski festival LIFFe

23rd Ljubljana International Film Festival – LIFFe

Na posameznih festivalskih prizoriščih v ljubljanskem Cankarjevem domu, Kinodvoru, Kinu Komuna, Kinu Šiška, Slovenski kinoteki in v Koloseju Maribor si bodo vsi ljubitelji filma lahko že triindvajsetič ogledali najboljše stvaritve evropske in svetovne filmske produkcije.

For the 23rd year in a row, film enthusiasts will be able to see the best of European and world film production at festival venues in Ljubljana's Cankarjev dom, the cinemas Kinodvor, Kino Komuna, Kino Šiška and Slovenska kinoteka and in Maribor's Kolosej cinema.

Filmi so razvrščeni po posameznih festivalskih sklopih: Perspektive so uraden tekmovalni sklop mladih režiserjev za Mobitelovo nagrado vodomec, Predpremiere predstavljajo filmske vrhunce, odkupljene za predvajanje po Sloveniji, Kralji in kraljice so dela prepoznavnih in nagrajevanih mojstrov sodobnega filma, v Panorami svetovnega filma so festivalski favoriti s petih celin. Sledijo še Ekstravaganca, t. i. polnočni kino, ki prinaša raznovrstne, drznejše in žgečkljive vsebine, Retrospektiva, ki je letos posvečena zgodovini »filma ceste,« t. i. road-movies – filmom, ki neskončno cesto oziroma potovanje jemljejo kot metaforo za duhovno očiščenje ali iniciacijsko dejanje –, potem Avtorska retrospektiva, ki se letos naslanja na opus francoskega režiserja Leosa Caraxa, ter Posvečeno, kratka, zgoščena predstavitev festivalsko in medijsko poudarjenega avtorja, letos namenjena italijanskemu cineastu Matteu Garroneju, ki se je pred leti proslavil z Gomorro, letos pa je v Cannesu za najnovejši film Resničnost prejel veliko nagrado žirije. Kino-integral je sekcija, namenjena pregledu eksperimentalnega filma, in še Svet na kratko, tekmovalni program sodobnega kratkega filma. Za mladino od 7. do 14. leta je v okviru Kinobalona že četrtič pripravljen samostojen sklop filmov v sodelovanju s Kinodvorom.

The festival has several categories: Perspectives is the official competition category for Mobitel's Kingfisher Award for young directors, Avantpremieres presents the best of the films purchased for Slovenian distribution, Kings and Queens comprises films by the most lauded and renowned contemporary filmmakers and World Film Panorama is the category for festival favourites from all five continents. Then there is Extravagance, also known as "midnight cinema," for daring and titillating films of diverse genres; this year's Retrospective focuses on the history of road movies, films that use the road and travelling as a metaphor for spiritual catharsis or initiation; this year's Author Retrospective is dedicated to French director Leos Carax, while this year's Focus – a brief, condensed introduction to a filmmaker at the focus of the festival and media attention – is centred on Italian filmmaker Matteo Garrone; some years ago, he made his name with Gomorrah and he was awarded the Cannes Grand Prix for his latest film Reality in 2012. There is also Kino-Integral, dedicated to experimental film, and World in Short, the competition category for contemporary short films. Meanwhile, for younger viewers from 7 to 14 years of age, there is the 4th Cinemaballoon, an independent programme section organised in cooperation with Kinodvor.


Ljubljana, oktober, november 2012

Fotografija: sara Bano

Fotografija: Ciril Jazbec

UMETNOST IN KULTURA / ART & CULTURE

Ljubljana, October, November 2012

Raznovrstni jesenski programi The Autumn Arts Programmes at na Ljubljanskem gradu the Ljubljana Castle Umetniški programi na Ljubljanskem gradu se z jesenjo spet selijo v grajske dvorane. Nadaljuje se cikel koncertov »Zvoki klasike«, v okviru katerega bodo do konca leta na sporedu še trije zanimivi koncerti: »Bele in črne tipke« s pianistko Sonjo Pahor, »Žlahtne strune« s harfistko Tino Žerdin ter »Božiču in novemu letu naproti« s Slovenskim oktetom. V okviru novega koncertnega cikla jazzovskih koncertov z naslovom »Boben in lajna na Ljubljanskem gradu 2012 – Mejniki« se bodo predstavili glasbeniki, ki trenutno vzbujajo med slovenskim občinstvom največ pozornosti na svojem področju. Oktobra in novembra bo na sporedu pet koncertov, ki jih bo zaokrožila priljubljena pevka Nina Strnad s svojim kvintetom. Koncertni cikel Jure Tori z gosti na Ljubljanskem gradu se v oktobru nadaljuje s četrtim koncertom cikla, na katerem bo nastopila skupina Orlek, zaključuje pa se novembra s pestrim večerom, v katerem ne bo manjkalo presenečenj. Od knapovske robatosti do ljubezenske poezije.

In the autumn, the arts programmes at the Ljubljana Castle are moving back into the castle halls. There are three more concerts set to take place as part of the Sounds of the Classics cycle before the end of the year: "Black and White Keys" with pianist Sonja Pahor, "Precious Strings" with harpist Tina Žerdin and "Towards Christmas and New Year" with The Slovenian Octet. The new jazz series entitled The "Boben & Lajna" Concert Cycle at the Ljubljana Castle 2012 – Milestones will see a series of concerts by the most interesting musicians in Slovenia at the moment. October and November will see five concerts, the last of which will be given by the popular singer Nina Strnad and her five-piece band. The Jure Tori and Guests at the Ljubljana Castle cycle continues in October with the fourth concert in the series, which will see a concert by the band Orlek. The cycle reaches its conclusion in November with a fun-filled evening that promises to be full of surprises. From the rough life of miners to the poetry of love.

Vsi, ki se radi sprehodite po razstaviščih Ljubljanskega gradu, se boste razveselili treh novih razstav: razstava zvoka Oko avtorja Boštjana Perovška je na ogled v Peterokotnem stolpu; fotografsko razstavo Lučke prihodnosti, ki prikazuje otroke in njihov vsakdan od obdobja med obema svetovnima vojnama pa vse do začetka 90. let prejšnjega stoletja, si lahko ogledate v Galeriji »S«; slikarska razstava Nostalgie avtorja Ganija Llalloshija, ki je nedavno prejel grand prix na 47. piranskem mednarodnem slikarskem Ex-temporu, pa je v Kazematah.

If you are a regular visitor to the Ljubljana Castle exhibition spaces, you will be happy to hear about three new exhibitions there: Boštjan Perovšek's sonic exhibition An Eye that Hears in the Pentagonal Tower; Lights of the Future, a photography exhibition about children and their everyday life from the period between the wars up to the early 1990s, in the S Gallery; and Nostalgie, an exhibition of paintings by Gani Llalloshi, who was recently awarded the Grand Prix at the 47th international Ex-tempore Piran, in the Casemate.

Pester program Pravljično-ustvarjalnih srečanj in Grajskih Mini ustvarjalnic pa bo pričakal najmlajše obiskovalce gradu. Vabljeni.

And for the youngest visitors to the castle, there are the Fairytale Creative Meetings and Castle Mini Workshops. Welcome!

Podrobnejši spored teh in preostalih dogodkov na gradu najdete na spletni strani: www.ljubljanskigrad.si, dodatne informacije pa tudi v Info centru na Ljubljanskem gradu (Tel.: 01/306 42 93).

For more information on these and other events at the , visit www.ljubljanskigrad.si. Information is also available at the Ljubljana Castle Info Centre (phone: +386 1 306 42 93). 27


UMETNOST IN KULTURA / ART & CULTURE

MARIBOR Od 16. do 26. oktobra

47. Festival Borštnikovo srečanje Maribor bo od 16. do 26. oktobra s festivalom Borštnikovo srečanje središče slovenske gledališke omike in prizorišče mednarodnih povezovanj. Oko strokovne žirije bo uprto v 12 tekmovalnih predstav, ki dokazujejo, da je slovenska gledališka pokrajina žanrsko močno raznovrstna. Festival bo najbogatejši doslej, prvič v zgodovini bo koproducent izjemnega glasbeno-gledališkega dogodka When the Mountain Changed its Clothing, ki ga režira sloviti nemški režiser Heiner Göbbels v sodelovanju s Karmino Šilec in zborom Carmina Slovenica. V spremljevalnem programu bo svoj gledališki izraz poleg 11 domačih predstavilo še 7 mednarodnih provokativnih in nekonvencionalnih uprizoritev.

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Ob tem bo na sporedu še tako imenovani showcase za tuje gledališke kritike in direktorje festivalov. Programski sklop Fokus bo namenjen Češki; v slovenski knjižni izdaji bodo predstavljene tri sodobne češke drame. Potekala bo petdnevna mednarodna delavnica za mlade profesionalne kritike, Društvo gledaliških režiserjev pa bo pripravilo okroglo mizo. Festival je naravnan k čim večji širini in vključevanju vseh generacij, zato bo v času festivala na relaciji Ljubljana– Maribor–Ljubljana dnevno vozil festivalski avtobus, na voljo pa bosta tudi dva gledališka abonmaja. Glavno prizorišče ostaja SNG Maribor, ker pa festival diha z mestom, bo nekaj predstav tudi v drugih gledaliških prostorih, kot so Lutkovno gledališče Maribor, Prva in Druga gimnazija, Vetrinjski dvor in Štuk, kjer bo ves čas festivala program AGRFT za mlade.


UMETNOST IN KULTURA / ART & CULTURE From 16 to 26 October 2012

47th Maribor Theatre Festival With the Maribor Theatre Festival taking place from 16 to 26 October, Maribor will be at the centre of Slovenian theatre culture and international collaboration. This year's competition section will see 12 shows, each of which makes an important contribution to the diversity of Slovenian theatre genres. The most extensive festival to date, the 47th Maribor Theatre Festival even acts as co-producer of the extraordinary musical and theatrical event When the Mountain Changed Its Clothing, directed by the renowned German director Heiner Göbbels in collaboration with Karmina Šilec and the Carmina Slovenica choir. In addition to 11 Slovenian shows, the accompanying programme will also see 7 provocative and unconventional international performances. The festival also comprises a showcase for foreign theatre critics and festival directors. The Focus programme section is dedicated to the Czech Republic; three contemporary Czech dramas will be published in Slovenian translation. There will be a 5-day international workshop for young professional critics and a round table discussion organised by the Theatre Directors' Association. As the festival aims to cater for all tastes and generations, there will be daily festival buses running from Ljubljana to Maribor and back and two theatre subscriptions available. As always, the main venue is the Slovenian National Theatre Maribor; since the festival likes to keep in touch with the city, some performances will be held in other venues, such as the Maribor Puppet Theatre, Prva gimnazija and Druga gimnazija schools, Vetrinjski dvor and Štuk, where the Academy of Theatre, Radio, Film and Television will hold its youth programme events throughout the festival.

Ob 50-letnici festivala Slovenske popevke in izidu knjige Vladimirja Frantarja

The 50th anniversary of Slovenian Song and the publication of Vladimir Frantar's book

Enkrat še zapoj ...

Sing Sing Once More ...

Prireditev Slovenska popevka praznuje letos 50-letnico. Pogled v preteklost te prireditve nas navda z nostalgijo in spomini na zlata leta, ko so priznani mojstri slovenske besede navdihovali glasbene ustvarjalce, ti pa so žlahtnost besede in glasbenega navdiha znali mojstrsko povezati z izbranimi solisti in instrumentalisti. Prvič je bil festival prirejen leta 1962 v Festivalni dvorani na Bledu. Prvi zmagovalec Slovenske popevke je bil Stane Mancini s pesmijo Mandolina.

In 2012, the Slovenian Song competition celebrates its 50th anniversary. A look into the competition's past inspires feelings of nostalgia and brings back memories of the golden era – a time when lyrics were written by renowned masters of the written word, music was composed by celebrated composers and songs were performed by inspired combinations of carefully selected soloists and musicians.

Festival je doživel največjo priljubljenost v 60. in 70. letih. Govorimo celo o zlatem obdobju slovenske popevke, ko so ugledale luč sveta zimzelene popevke, kot so Orion, Med iskrenimi ljudmi, Poletna noč, Maček v žaklju in Dan neskončnih sanj. V 80. letih je Slovenska popevka začela izgubljati na pomenu in popularnosti. Leta 1983 je bil prirejen še zadnji festival. Po petnajstih letih je RTV Slovenija festival ponovno oživila; leta 1998 so Slovensko popevko znova priredili v Križankah v Ljubljani. Na okroglo obletnico v letošnjem letu se je Slovenska popevka oglasila v septembru iz operne hiše v Ljubljani. V počastitev tega prestižnega festivala je pri založbi Celjska Mohorjeva družba izšla knjiga z naslovom »Enkrat še zapoj …«, ki jo je napisal Vladimir Frantar. V knjigi se prvič v zgodovini ponuja v slovenščini seznam vseh pesmi, njihovih avtorjev in izvajalcev, ki so nastopili na odru Slovenske popevke v njeni 50-letni zgodovini. Vladimir Frantar je s pomočjo mnogih ljudi, ki so aktivno ali pasivno spremljali festival, in njihovih osebnih arhivov uspešno rekonstruiral zlasti zgodnejša leta festivala. Knjiga je opremljena tudi z izvlečki iz časopisov iz posameznih obdobij in portreti 75 ustvarjalcev Popevke, kar knjigi doda posebno dokumentarno vrednost. Knjiga je opremljena z odličnimi fotografijami Edija Šelhausa in Marjana Cigliča iz Muzeja novejše zgodovine.

The very first festival was held in 1962 in Bled's Festival Hall. The first Slovenian Song winner was Stane Mancini with the song Mandolina. The festival saw its heyday in the 1960s and 1970s. The period could arguably be called the golden age of the Slovenian popular song, with releases of such ever-popular songs as Orion, Med iskrenimi ljudmi, Poletna noč, Maček v žaklju and Dan neskončnih sanj. In the 1980s, the Slovenian Song contest rapidly fell from popularity and the festivals stopped after 1983. Fifteen years later, RTV Slovenia brought the festival back: in 1998, the Slovenian Song contest was held in Križanke, Ljubljana. For this year's big anniversary, Slovenian Song was heard in the Ljubljana Opera in September. In a tribute to the prestigious festival, the Celjska Mohorjeva družba publishing house published "Sing Once More...", a book written by Vladimir Frantar. For the first time in history, the book, written in Slovenian, brings together a list of all the songs, their authors and performers who took part in the Slovenian Song contest throughout its 50 years. With the help of many people who have been actively or passively involved in the festival over the years and who have shared their personal archives with the author, Vladimir Frantar was able to reconstruct even the earliest years of the festival. The book is given added documentary value by newspaper extracts from various periods and portraits of 75 Slovenian Song creators. "Sing Once More..." contains fantastic photographs by Edi Šelhaus and Marjan Ciglič, contributed by the National Museum of Contemporary History.

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UMETNOST IN KULTURA / ART & CULTURE KRANJ Od 26. do 29. oktobra

NOČ ČAROVNIC ZA OTROKE Zavod za turizem Kranj organizira prireditev Noč čarovnic v Rovih pod starim Kranjem. Zaradi vsakoletnega izjemnega zanimanja smo se letos odločili, da bomo pripravili še več predstav, na katerih bodo otroci premagovali strah pred živalmi, se družili s čarovnicami, čarali v čarovniškem laboratoriju, kjer bodo skupaj s čarovnico pričarali tudi čarobne kamenčke »Ničmenistrah«, se po temnih delih rovov sprehodili z lučkami, na koncu pa jim bo čarovnica pričarala tudi pravljico. Vsak dan bodo organizirane štiri predstave, ki sprejmejo do 60 obiskovalcev zato priporočamo vnaprejšnjo rezervacijo. Za več informacij: Zavod za turizem Kranj, tel: 04/238 04 50 ali 040/664-015.

From 26 to 29 October

HALLOWEEN FOR KIDS The Kranj Tourist Board is organising another Halloween event in the tunnels below the old part of Kranj.Since the event has proved extremely popular, this year there will be even more opportunities for children to conquer their fear of animals, meet witches, try their hand at magic in the magic laboratory where a witch will help them conjure up their own "I'mnotscared" pebbles, walk along the dark tunnels with headlamps and finally end the day with a story conjured up by the witch. There will be four events organised every day; each event is limited to 60 people, so advance booking is recommended. For more information: Tourist Board Kranj, phone: +386 4 238 04 50 or +386 40 664 015.

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Od 16. 18. novembra

From 16 to 18 November

VINSKA POT V ROVIH POD STARIM KRANJEM

WINE WALK IN THE TUNNELS BELOW OLD KRANJ

V Rovih pod starim Kranjem bo tokrat že peto leto zapored organizirana Vinska pot. V največji »kranjski kleti« se bodo na več kot 1.300 metrih predstavili vinarji iz skoraj vseh slovenskih vinorodnih pokrajin. Letos bo trajal program tri dni, in sicer od petka, 16., do nedelje, 18. novembra. V rovih bo poleg degustacije vrhunskih vin poskrbljeno za izvrstno kulinariko s predstavitvijo in okušanjem sirov, suhih mesnin, kranjske klobase, peciv in kruha, s prav posebnimi dobrotami pa bodo navduševali Rokovnači iz Besnice. Za dobro razpoloženje bo vse dni skrbela glasbena skupina, Vinsko pot pa bo obiskala tudi vinska kraljica. V preteklih štirih letih se je Gorenjcem predstavilo že več kot 60 različnih vinarjev iz vseh vinorodnih področij Slovenije, prireditev pa letno obišče več kot 2.000 ljubiteljev vinske kapljice in odlične kulinarike.

For the fifth consecutive year, a Wine Walk will be held in the tunnels below the old part of Kranj. Wine-makers from most of Slovenia's wine-growing regions will present their wares in the 1300 metres of Kranj's largest "cellar". This year's Wine Walk takes place over three days, from Friday, 16 November, to Sunday, 18 November. In addition to the tasting of fine wines, there will be food in the tunnels as well, with presentations and tastings of cheeses, dry meat products, Carniolan sausages, pastries and bread, as well as special treats provided by the Rokovnači iz Besnice association. There will be live music every day of the festival and the Wine Walk will also see a visit from the Wine Queen. In the past four years, this wine festival in the Gorenjska region has hosted over 60 wine-makers from every wine-growing region in Slovenia; the festival is visited by over 2000 food and wine enthusiasts every year.

Od 23. do 25. novembra

From 23 to 25 November

RAZSTAVA ADVENTNIH VENČKOV

ADVENT WREATH EXHIBITION

Advent je čas, ko začnemo razmišljati o pripravah na praznovanja pred prihodom novega leta. V Kranju se zato že nekaj let zapored odvija prodajna razstava adventnih venčkov v rovih, kjer so predstavljeni trendi in novosti prazničnih aranžmajev, novoletnih okraskov, unikatnih izdelkov in drobnega darilnega programa. Vsak dan posebej odlikuje tudi pester spremljevalni program.

The Advent is the season when we start thinking about preparing for the end of year celebrations. For several years now, Kranj has been holding sales exhibitions of advent wreaths in the tunnels below the old town. The exhibition also includes the latest trends in festive decorations, Christmas tree decorations, one-of-a-kind products and small gifts. On top of that, every day of the exhibition also sees a range of events from the entertainment programme.


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UMETNOST IN KULTURA / ART & CULTURE München, Muzej Brandhorst

HIROSHI SUGIMOTO: REVOLUCIJA Od 25. oktobra 2012 do 10. februarja 2013 Med paradoksi, povezanimi s fotografijo kot medijem, je tudi dejstvo, da opazovalec neprestano preskakuje med opazovanjem upodobljenega motiva ter estetskim občudovanjem in obratno. V nasprotju z drugimi se Hiroshi Sugimoto, eden najbolj znanih umetnikov našega časa, posveča različnim vidikom medija, ki jih jasno upodablja v svojih impresivnih serijah fotografij. V vsaki seriji se običajno osredotoča samo na en motiv: dioramam so sledile kinodvorane, morski pogledi, t. i. omare groze, arhitekturne fotografije, portreti, borovci, konceptualne oblike in drugi motivi. Za majhne razstavne prostore v Muzeju Brandhorst je Sugimoto razvil poseben koncept. Razstava z naslovom Revolucija bo postavljena v obliki velikoformatnih nočnih fotografij morja, ki daljše obdobje sledijo poti Lune. S pomočjo posebne postavitve – slike so nagnjene za 90° – je dosežen nenavaden učinek, ki se močno spreminja glede na del sveta oz. zemljepisno širino, kjer je bila fotografija posneta. Serija del, s katerimi se umetnik ukvarja že precej dolgo, bo javnosti prvič predstavljena v Münchnu. www.museum-brandhorst.de Amsterdam

Vincent: Muzej Van Gogh v Hermitagu Amsterdam Od 29. septembra 2012 do 25. aprila 2013 Začasna selitev Muzeja Van Gogh v Hermitage Amsterdam je odlična priložnost, da odkrijete dela Vincenta van Gogha na povsem nov način. V potujoči zbirki lahko občudujete van Goghova dela 32

v drugačnem kontekstu. Poleg 75 pomembnih slik so razstavljena tudi pisma, risbe in drugi predmeti, ki vam omogočajo, da sledite Vincentovi osebni poti do njegovega umetniškega bistva in pri tem odkrivate teme, ki jih je upodabljal. www.vangoghmuseum.nl Beograd

57. Beograjski knjižni sejem Od 21. do 28. oktobra 2012 Mednarodna prireditev, na kateri založbe in knjigarne na dveh sejmih predstavljajo knjige srbskih in tujih založb. Vključene so knjige, ki so jih izdali razstavljavci, pa tudi antikvarne knjige. Poseben sklop je posvečen predstavitvi države, ki je uradna gostja sejma. Promocija: Beogradski sajam. www.beogradskisajamknjiga.com

zvezdnikov, kot sta Tigran Hamasyan in Anat Fort. Širok razpon ustvarjalnosti in nešteto razlogov, da preživite zabaven konec tedna na potovanju skozi sodobne jazzovske trende. Slogan »Tudi ti si jazz« simbolizira povezanost festivala z občinstvom, s katerim je tudi sam rasel. Po eni strani se slogan poklanja svobodi, ki nam jo daje jazz, da si vsak izbere svojo interpretacijo, po drugi strani pa zvestemu občinstvu, brez katerega festival seveda ne bi obstajal. www.belgrade-jazzfest.org Köbenhavn

Matisse – Dvojniki in variacije Do 28. oktobra 2012

Od 25. do 28. oktobra 2012

Razstava ponuja edinstveno priložnost za ogled širokega izbora Matissovih del v serijah in parih; gre za dela, ki so le redko razstavljena skupaj.

27. Beograjski festival jazza ponuja izjemen predogled mednarodne jazzovske koncertne sezone in nas seznanja z najpomembnejšimi novostmi v tem glasbenem žanru.

V sodelovanju s pariškim Centrom Pompidou in newyorškim Metropolitanskim muzejem umetnosti je danska Narodna galerija zbrala raznovrsten nabor Matissovih najboljših slik.

Poleg koncertov kitarskih legend, kot je Pat Metheny, ki bo odprl festival, bodo poslušalci lahko uživali v jazzu tudi v intimnejšem vzdušju beograjskega Doma omladine, kulturnega centra, ki prireja najstarejši in največji festival jazza v Srbiji že vse od leta 1971. Festival posveča posebno pozornost domačim umetnikom – letos bodo proslavili 80. rojstni dan Duška Gojkovića, najuspešnejšega srbskega jazzovskega umetnika. V okviru festivala bodo nastopila nekatera največja imena sodobnega jazza – od legend, kot sta Charles Lloyd in Joachim Kuhn, fantastičnih umetnikov srednje generacije, kot so Stefano Bollani, Marc Ribot, Cristine Branco in Elliot Sharp, do bodočih

Razstava se osredotoča na Matissov sistematični način dela z metodo ponavljanja. Vedno znova se je vračal k motivom, ki jih je že upodobil, in spet preverjal njihov potencial. Pri ponovnem upodabljanju je menjal barve in slikarske tehnike.

27. Beograjski festival jazza

Razstava pokriva vse najpomembnejše faze v umetnikovem razvoju, saj sega izbor del od l. 1900, ko se je Matissova metoda začela oblikovati, pa vse do poznih 40-ih let 20. stoletja, ko je njegovo slikanje doseglo vrhunec. www.smk.dk

Bruselj

Princesa MarieJosé – med Belgijo in Italijo Kraljevska garderoba Muzej Cinquantenaire (Kraljevi muzeji umetnosti in zgodovine) Od 3. oktobra 2012 do 3. marca 2013 Savojski dvor Marie-José (1906–2001) je bila hči belgijskega kralja Alberta I. in kraljice Elizabete. Pod vplivom svoje matere je princesa odrasla v izredno prefinjenem okolju, naklonjenem glasbi in umetnosti. Po poroki z italijanskim prestolonaslednikom Umbertom l. 1930 se je morala prilagoditi glamuroznemu, vendar okorelemu dvoru v fašističnem okolju, ki je bil daleč od vrednot belgijskega dvora. To dvojnost odsevajo tudi njena prestižna oblačila, ki so bila anahronistična v smislu ritualnosti, obenem pa so se skladala s propagandističnimi idejami 30-ih let prejšnjega stoletja. Kraljevska garderoba Prestolonaslednik je svoji ženi podaril več nepredstavljivo razkošnih večernih oblek in dvornih plaščev, ki so jih ročno izvezli v italijanskih hišah visoke mode. Lepa in vitka princesa je hitro postala ikona ženske elegance v 30-ih letih prejšnjega stoletja. Blišč in politika Razstava obuja blišč tega obdobja in ga umešča v čas, ko je bil zunanji videz del politične strategije. Prej neobjavljene fotografije in arhivski dokumenti pomagajo prikazovati zapletenost tega časa in pot, po kateri se je v njem odvijalo razgibano življenje princese Marie-José. Pri štiridesetih letih je morala zapustiti državo in se podati v izgnanstvo. Za izvedbo razstave sta poskrbela Umberto II. in Fundacija Marie-José Savojske. Razstavo pod pokroviteljstvom kraljice Paole sponzorira Narodna fundacija Marie-José. www.brusselsmuseums.be


UMETNOST IN KULTURA / ART & CULTURE München, Museum Brandhorst

HIROSHI SUGIMOTO. REVOLUTION

25.10.2012 - 10.02.2013

It is one of the paradoxes of the medium of photography that the viewer continuously switches from a perception of the motif presented to an aesthetic appreciation and vice versa. Unlike virtually anybody else, Hiroshi Sugimoto, one of the best-known artists of our times, reflects on and clearly shows various aspects of the medium in his impressive series of pictures in which he generally focuses on one subject. His dioramas were followed by cinemas, seacapes, cabinets of horrors, architectural pictures, portraits, pine trees, conceptual shapes and other motifs. Sugimoto has developed a tailor-made concept for the small exhibition rooms in the Museum Brandhorst. Under the heading “Revolution”, this will take the form of large-format pictures of the sea at night that trace the movement of the moon over a long period. Thanks to their special presentation – the pictures being tilted 90° – a puzzling effect is achieved that varies considerably depending on the region in the world or the latitude. This group of works which the artist has been working on for some time, will be presented to the public for the first time in Munich. www.museum-brandhorst.de Amsterdam,

Vincent. The Van Gogh Museum in the Hermitage Amsterdam

29 September 2012 - 25 April 2013

The Van Gogh Museum's temporary stay at the Hermitage Amsterdam is an opportunity to discover the work of Vincent van Gogh in an entirely new way. Admire works by Vincent van Gogh from tour collection in a new context. This presentation

of some 75 important paintings, combined with letters, drawings and objects, allows you to follow Vincent on his personal quest to the heart of his artistic being, while exploring the themes of his art. www.vangoghmuseum.nl Belgrade

The 57. Belgrade Book Fair

21 October 2012 – 28 October 2012

The international event of book publishers and bookstores presenting domestic publishing production of domestic and foreign publishers between two fairs. The overall publishing production of the exhibitors and antiquary books. Separate schedule ensemble is presentation of the country – the official guest of the Fair. Promoted by "Belgrade Fair". www.beogradskisajamknjiga.com

The 27th Belgrade Jazz Festival

25.10.2012. – 28.10.2012

The 27th Belgrade Jazz Festival presents the best preview of the international jazz concert season, updating us on the most important new tendencies in the genre. Side by side with listening to guitar stars like Pat Metheny, who will be opening the festival, you will be able to get acquainted with jazz in a more intimate atmosphere in Dom omladine Belgrade, a cultural centre that’s been organizing this oldest and most prominent Serbian jazz festival since 1971. We dedicate special attention to domestic artists - on this year’s BJF, we will be celebrating the 80th birthday of the most successful domestic jazz artist Dusko Gojkovic. Our guests will include some of the biggest names of contemporary jazz – from legends like Charles Lloyd and Joachim Kuhn, via the fantastic artists of the middle generation Stefano Bollani, Marc Ribot, Cristine Branco and Elliot Sharp, to future stars like Tigran

Hamasyan and Anat Fort. A variety of creativeness and a million reasons to spend a fun weekend on a journey through current jazz trends. The slogan “Jazz Is You” is a symbol of the unity of the festival and the public, with who we ourselves have grown. On the one hand, it presents a tribute to the freedom jazz gives us, letting everyone define it for themselves. On the other hand, this year’s slogan pays tribute to the loyal public without who the festival wouldn’t even exist. www.belgrade-jazzfest.org Copenhagen

Matisse Doubles and Variations

Until 28.10.2012

The exhibition offers a unique opportunity to view an extensive selection of Matisse art in series and pairs; works that are only rarely exhibited together. In collaboration with the Centre Pompidou in Paris and the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York, the National Gallery of Denmark has brought together a wide range of Matisse’s best paintings. The exhibition focuses on how Matisse would work systematically with repetition as a method. He repeatedly returned to subject matter he had previously addressed, testing its potential yet again. As he repeated such subjects he would vary the colours and techniques employed. The exhibition presents all the major phases of the artist’s development with a selection of works that spans the full range from Matisse’s production around 1900, when his method first took shape, to the late 1940s when he reached a final pinnacle with his painting. www.smk.dk

Brussels

Princess MarieJosé - Between Belgium and Italy

A Royal Wardrobe Cinquantenaire Museum (Royal Museums of Art and History) 03.10.2012 – 03.03.2013 The Court of Savoy

Marie-José (1906-2001) was the daughter of King Albert I and Queen Elisabeth of Belgium. Under the influence of her mother, this princess grew up in a highly refined artloving and musical milieu. In 1930, she married the Italian Crown Prince Umberto, which required adapting to a glittering, but rigid, court in a fascist environment, far removed from the values of the Belgian court. This duality was reflected in her prestigious wardrobe, which was both anachronistic in terms of ritual and in line with the propagandist ideas of the 1930s. A royal wardrobe The Crown Prince gave his wife evening dresses and court coats of unprecedented luxury, hand-embroidered by Italian haute-couture houses. Comely and slim, she became an icon of female elegance in the 1930s. Glamour and politics This exhibition evokes the glamorous world of those years, placing it in a time when appearance was a facet of political strategy. Unpublished photographs and archive documentation help to illustrate the complexities of that period and the course that the turbulent life of this princess took during it. At the age of forty, she found herself obliged to leave the country and go into exile. The exhibition owes its realization to the Umberto II and Marie-José of Savoy Foundation. It is sponsored by the Marie-José National Foundation and is under the Gracious patronage of Queen Paola. www.brusselsmuseums.be

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ADRIJIN POTNIK

adrijin POTNIK Alen Kobilica >> najprepoznavnejši slovenski model, ki je sodeloval z nekaj najvidnejšimi svetovnimi oblikovalci in znamkami v visoki modi, je konec leta 2008 izgubil vid. Odločil se je, da bo to pomanjkljivost spremenil v prednost. Posvetil se je novim ciljem in življenju povrnil bogastvo barv.

BESEDILO: mag. Alen mlekuž Fotografije: Nina Bučuk, osebni arhiv alena kobilice

Pravite, da se je za vas pred štirimi leti pričelo prehodno obdobje, ko so vid prevzela druga čutila. Postali ste drugačen človek in ste to pomanjkljivost spremenili v prednost. »Vidim cilj.« Katerega? Ne morem reči, da sem postal drugačen človek, seveda pa gledam na življenje drugače. Ta dogodek sem sprejel kot izziv, da storim nekaj več in nekaj novega v svojem življenju. Brez dvoma pridobivam nove izkušnje. Bodisi z vidom ali brez njega, v življenju mora človek stremeti k določenim ciljem. Še ko sem bil v bolnici, sem želel čas čim boljše izkoristiti; prijateljem sem naročil zgoščenke za učenje tujih jezikov. Nato sem kontaktiral Društvo slepih in slabovidnih v Ljubljani in ugotovil, da obstajajo tudi športi, vključno s paraolimpijskimi igrami. Kmalu sem tudi spoznal, da imajo nekatere države posebne športne centre, ki se ukvarjajo s slepimi in slabovidnimi športniki, tudi z otroki. Kot diplomirani profesor športa sem se odločil ustanoviti center »Vidim cilj«, ki spodbuja slepe, da so bodisi rekreativno bodisi profesionalno telesno aktivni in se redno ukvarjajo s športom. Center nudi od novembra 2011 organizirane aktivnosti plavanja in smučanja, v prihodnje pa bo pokrival tudi ostale športe, denimo tek, plezanje in kolesarjenje. Vaša strast do športa vas spremlja vse življenje. Kako jo živite danes? Šport je bil in ostaja moje življenje, je katarza, ki prečisti in izpolnjuje moje bistvo. Aktivno sem pričel s pripravami na zimske paraolimpijske igre v ruskem Sočiju, ki bodo leta 2014 in kjer se bom poskušal kvalificirati kot alpski smučar, vzporedno pa se bom pripravljal tudi na poletne igre v Rio de Janeiru leta 2016, kjer se želim kvalificirati kot plavalec. Moj izziv je, da se v vseh športih, s katerimi sem se ukvarjal prej, spopadem tudi sedaj in razvijem način, kako jih uspešno premagovati. V svetu so razvili vrsto pripomočkov, tako tistih preprostih kot tudi visokotehnoloških, ki nam slepim omogočajo, da smo enakovreden člen. Kljub vsemu pa ostajajo dispcipline, ki jim slepi ali slabovidni še nismo popolnoma kos, recimo odbojka, tenis, košarka. Trenutno posvečam največ energije plavanju, smučanju, kolesarjenju in teku; septembra sem se denimo na Bledu uspešno udeležil triatlona.

Zaljubljeni ste v življenje. To čutijo vsi, ki vas poznajo oziroma vas spremljajo na tej novi poti. Tako je nastal tudi film Hoja po vodi. K meni sta pristopila režiser Marko Bratuš in producent Jani Sever, ki je v moji zgodbi našel navdih za nastanek filma o mojem življenju po dogodku izpred štirih let in ga poimenoval Hoja po vodi. Želela sta predstaviti, kako se spopadam z novimi izzivi, in posredovati vzor tudi drugim ljudem, ki jih življenje preizkuša.

Rekel sem si, da če že enemu pomagamo pri prvih korakih, je to uspeh. A smo dosegli mnogo več. S filmom ozaveščamo javnost, da je lahko življenje slepih in slabovidnih enako kakovostno. Še več, film je pozitivno vplival tudi na ostale ljudi, da so se streznili in pričeli spoštovati svoje življenje. S snemalno ekipo smo obiskali več poslovnih partnerjev in prijateljev v Malagi, Berlinu, Splitu, Parizu in Milanu. Film je junija doživel premiero, predvajala pa ga je že tudi Televizija Slovenija. Bili ste svetovno uspešen model in še danes vodite modno agencijo. Kako je bilo srečati svoje prijatelje in znance v Parizu in Milanu ter jih prvič ne videti? Bilo je emocionalno, sproščujoče in navdihujoče. Pariz sem obiskal prvič, odkar ne vidim, in s pomočjo pripovedovanja prijateljev sem si ponovno pričaral to 41


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veličastno arhitekturo, mostove, palače ter vrvež skrivnostnih ulic. Slika je postala popolna, ko sem se srečal z vonjem mesta, ki ga je prinesel veter, ter segel v roke prijateljem. Kljub temu, da teh ljudi že dolgo nisem srečal, sem imel občutek, da smo sodelovali ne dolgo nazaj. Prijatelji so mi po pogovoru rekli, da skoraj ne morejo verjeti, da ne vidim, saj sem popolnoma enak, z isto energijo in mimiko.

pričaram preko vonja. Ko zavoham kavo, se mi pričara rjava barva, in ko spomladi po košnji zavoham sveže pokošeno travo, se mi pričara intenzivna zelena. Odvisno od tega, kakšen je ta zunanji impulz, in od vonja. Kot na morju, borovci, modrina morja. Moj svet je barven, vse, o čemer razmišljam, je v barvah. In še vedno so vse barve izjemno intenzivne. Tudi vsaka dežela ima zame svojo barvo, Španija je povezana z rdečo, Maroko je rdečkasto rjav.

Ali so podobe, dotik in vonj dobili nov pomen? Vonjam intenzivneje, dotik je postal nepogrešljiv. Močni vonji, kot recimo različni parfumi, so postali neprijetni. Raje se osredotočim na vonj posameznika, to je pristnejše in mi pomaga ustvariti sliko. Če kaj pogrešam, so to podobe. Ko greš v kavarno, opazuješ ljudi, kako so oblečeni, kako se vedejo. Pogrešam tudi neverbalno komunikacijo; tisto, česar ti ni bilo treba povedati, a si s pogledom razumel vse. Vse to si moram pričarati preko besed, pogovora, vonja, dotikov. Bistvo nečesa se osredotoči v dotiku, dotik pomeni stik, pretok informacij, pomaga ustvariti sliko. To lahko ponazorim z naslednjim primerom: pri branju knjige si vsakdo predstavlja junake po svoje, tako si tudi jaz z zbranimi informacijami ustvarim svojo sliko. Ne boste verjeli, veliko slik je skoraj identičnih z realno podobo, kar mi povedo drugi. Obdobje, odkar ne vidim, zame ne pomeni, da ga ni bilo; imam ustvarjen film kot takrat, ko sem še videl. Ko se včasih pogovarjam s prijatelji o kakem dogodku, se zavem, da imam o njem ustvarjeno sliko, kot da bi takrat celotno dogajanje z očesom posnel, a se šele potem zavem, da takrat nisem videl. In potem celo prijatelji pripomnijo, kako slikovito se česa spominjam. Kako si v življenju pričarate barve? Obožujem barve, izjemno. Ko pomislim na Indijo, vidim vse te svetleče vzorce, Indija je dežela barv, pa recimo Brazilija, odtenki rumene in zelene. Nekoč sem videl, to je pomemben element, zato si barve lahko pričaram, še zlasti si jih 42

Izraz »ekološko« ima za vas poseben pomen, postal je vaš življenjski stil. Izraz »ekološko« ni postal le moj življenjski stil, temveč tudi moj največji osebni cilj. Postaja dobrina, česar pa se ljudje še ne zavedajo. Žalostno sprejemam dejstvo, da bo verjetno že čez 10 let nemogoče zaužiti nekaj, kar bomo lahko poimenovali »ekološko«. Želim si, da bi Slovenija postala nekakšen »ecoland«, in verjamem, da lahko z ustreznim ozaveščanjem in aktivnostmi to tudi uresničimo. Tako smo ustanovili Pro Organiko in jo poimenovali »kultura prehrane in bivanja«. Ekološko pridelani izdelki so nosilci vitalne energije in delujejo na človeka in okolje regenerativno. Tako pridelani izdelki so z okoljem v simbiozi in ga po dokončani rasti ne opustošijo. Dotakniva se še tehnologije, ki slepim in slabovidnim lajša vsakdan. Tehnološki dosežki mi dajejo upanje. Tehnologija me povezuje s svetom. Pretekli mesec so prvi osebi vgradili nano kamero (t. i. bionic eye), ki ji je povrnila nekaj odstotkov vida, ti odstotki pa se bodo v naslednjih letih z razvojem še povečevali. Pametni telefoni so že tako prilagojeni, da omogočajo skoraj nemoteno uporabo in večino funkcionalnosti, kakršne uporabljajo ljudje, ki vidijo. Poleg telefona redno uporabljam diktafon, kamor si prenesem zvočne knjige. Tako lahko še vedno rečem, da veliko »berem«. Brez težav uporabljam tablične in namizne računalnike, ki mi s pomočjo zvoka omogočajo njihovo uporabo.


ADRIA PASSENGER TEXT: Alen MlekuĹž, MSc Photography: nina buÄ?uk, archive of Alen Kobilica

Alen Kobilica >> Slovenia's best known model He was Slovenia's best known model who worked with some of the world's most renowned high fashion designers and brands; then, in late 2008, Alen Kobilica lost his sight. He decided to turn his disability into an advantage. He focused on new goals and brought the richness of colours back into his life.

You say that you entered a period of transition four years ago when your other senses began to overtake your eyesight. It made you a different person, and you were able to turn your disability into an advantage. "I see the goal." What is your goal? I can't really say that I became a different person, but obviously my outlook on life has changed. I took this development as a challenge to do something more, to do something new with my life. I'm gaining new experience. Whether you have sight or not, you should always have certain goals in life. Even when I was in hospital, I tried to find ways to make the most of my time; I asked friends to bring me language learning CDs. Then I got in touch with the Association for the Blind and Partially Sighted in Ljubljana and learnt that there are sports opportunities – even the Paralympics. I also learnt that some countries have dedicated sports centres for blind and partially sighted athletes and even for children. Being a Faculty of Sports graduate, I decided to establish "I see the goal", a centre encouraging the blind to stay physically active and do sports regularly, be it on a professional or merely a recreational level. Since November 2011, the centre offers organised swimming and skiing activities; in the future, we also plan to cover other sports such as running, climbing and cycling. Throughout your life, you have always had a passion for sports. What are your outlets for it now? Sports have always been and continue to be an important part of my life; it's like a catharsis that cleanses and fulfils me. I am now actively preparing for the 2014 Winter Paralympics in Sochi, Russia, where I hope to qualify for Alpine skiing. At the same time, I will continue preparing for the 2016 Summer Paralympics in Rio de Janeiro, where my hope is to qualify for swimming. The challenge for me is to come back to all the sports I did before and find a new way to keep succeeding in them. There have been so many aids and devices developed, ranging from simple to high technology, to help blind and partially sighted people compete as equals. But there are still certain sports that we are not fully capable of participating in such as volleyball, tennis or basketball. At the moment, I'm devoting most of my energy to swimming, skiing, cycling and running; in September, for instance, I competed very successfully in the Bled triathlon. 43


ADRIA Passenger

You are enamoured with life. Everyone can feel it – everyone who knows you or who is walking your new path with you. That was how the film entitled Walking on Water came to be made. I was approached by director Marko Bratuš and producer Jani Sever, who were inspired by my story to make a film about my life after the occurrence four years ago; they called it Walking on Water. They wanted to show the world how I face new challenges and maybe make an example for other people going through a trying time in their lives.

I said to myself that even if I help one person to take his or her first steps, we will have succeeded – but in the end, we achieved so much more. The film has been raising awareness of the fact that blind and partially sighted people can enjoy the same quality of life as sighted people. Moreover, the film has had a positive effect on other people, giving them renewed respect for their own lives. 44

I took the film crew along to meet many of my business partners and friends in Malaga, Berlin, Split, Paris and Milan. The film was released in June and has also been broadcast on Slovenian TV. You achieved international success as a model and you continue to run a modelling agency today. What did it feel like to meet your friends and acquaintances in Paris and Milan and, for the first time, not be able to see them? It was emotional, relaxing and inspiring. It was my first visit to Paris since I lost my sight; with the help of my friends' descriptions, I was able to envisage the majestic architecture, bridges, palaces and the hustle and bustle of mysterious streets. The picture was complete when I sensed the smell of the city in the wind and shook the hands of my friends. Even though it had been a long time since I had last met with them, it felt like we had worked together just recently. After talking to me, my friends said they could hardly believe that I really couldn't see, because I seemed completely the same as before, with the same energy and facial expressions. Have images, touches and smells taken on a new meaning for you? My sense of smell is much stronger now and my sense of touch is indispensable. I have grown to dislike intense scents such as perfumes. I prefer to focus on the real scent of a person – it is more genuine and helps me to form a mental image. If there is anything I miss, it is images. Sitting in a cafe and watching other people, their clothes, their behaviour. I also miss non-verbal communication – things that didn't need to be said and could be understood with a single glance. Now I have to envisage all of it through words and conversations,


ADRIA Passenger

through my sense of smell and touch. The essence of something is focused in the touch – a touch means contact, starts the flow of information and helps me to form an image. Here is an example to illustrate it. When reading a book, everyone forms their own image of the characters; that is how I use the information available to create my own image. You wouldn't believe how many times people have told me that these images are virtually identical to the real thing. It is not as if the period since I have lost my sight has never happened – in my mind, I have a film of everything, just like when I could still see. Sometimes when I'm talking to friends about something that happened, I realise that I have a complete image of it as if I had recorded the whole thing with my eyes, and it takes me a moment to remember that I had not actually been able to see it. Even my friends are surprised by how vividly I remember things.

The word "organic" has a special meaning for you; it has become a part of your lifestyle. "Organic" is more than just my lifestyle – it is my biggest personal goal. People have not realised it yet, but organic food is becoming a luxury. It is sad but true that as soon as ten years from now, it will probably be impossible to find food that we could still call organic. My hope is for Slovenia to become a sort of "Ecoland"; I am convinced that this is something we can achieve if we raise enough awareness and organise appropriate activities. To this end, we founded Pro Organika for the culture of eating and living. Organically produced products are sources of vital energy; they have a restorative effect on people and the environment. These products are in harmony with nature and their growth is not harmful to the environment.

How do you conjure up colours in your life?

Let's touch on the technology that makes life easier for blind and partially sighted people.

I love colours; I just adore them. When I think of India, I see a riot of shining patterns; India is a land of colours and so is Brazil, for example – I see shades of yellow and green. I used to be able to see and that is an important element. It means that I am now able to conjure up colours, especially through my sense of smell. When I smell coffee, I see brown; when I smell freshly mown grass in spring, I can envisage an intense shade of green. It depends on the external impulse, on the scent. At the seaside, for instance, there are pine trees and the blueness of the sea. My world is in colour; everything I think about it is in colour. And all of these colours have retained their intensity. To me, each country has its own colour as well – I associate Spain with red and Morocco with a reddish brown.

Technological developments give me hope. Technology keeps me connected with the world. Last month saw the first person in the world being fitted with a nano camera (what is known as a bionic eye) to restore a small percentage of vision. This percentage will increase in the future as the technology is developed further. Modern smartphones have been adapted for use to such an extent that they offer virtually uninterrupted usage and most functions that are available to sighted people. In addition to my phone, I also regularly use a dictaphone, which I can use to listen to audiobooks. So I can still say that I "read" a lot. I am also easily able to use tablet and desktop computers with the help of sound technology. 45


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Adria leti na liniji LJUBLJANA&MUNCHEN DNEVNO !3-KRAT

»Ne hodi nikamor drugam … nič se ne more primerjati z Münchnom. Vse drugo v Nemčiji je zapravljanje časa,« je leta 1923 vzkliknil Ernest Hemingway.

fotografije: Blaž zupančič

Tretje največje nemško mesto že skoraj stoletje po tem vzkliku ohranja svojo privlačnost tako med Nemci kot med obiskovalci bavarske prestolnice. Nenavadna mešanica sodobnega mestnega vrveža in alpske romantike privablja turiste vse leto. München ostaja veliko kulturno središče Evrope z neprekosljivo zbirko muzejev in z zapeljivimi posebnostmi, kot so modro-rumeni tramvaji, bulvarji z drevoredi, vodnjaki, parki, kavarne na ulicah, velike pivnice in pivski vrtovi. Pivo nasploh igra v mestu pomembno vlogo, münchenske pivovarne so pomemben gospodarski dejavnik, mesto pa je znano tudi kot središče modne in filmske industrije. 47


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Adrijin pilot Andrej Ropret pogosto prihaja v München, največkrat po službeni dolžnosti, včasih pa si vzame čas in pride v mesto s kakšnim posebnim namenom. S polnimi vrečkami iz Münchna Vse se začne že v petek zvečer, ko dvigujem mobilni telefon in odgovarjam, da danes pa res ne morem nikamor, saj grem zjutraj v shopping … Sledi sekundo dolg premor in pregovarjanje, da se bom v nakupovalni center pač odpravil ob 12h, ko se bom prebudil po nepozabni noči. »Ne, ne razumeš, moram vstati že ob 4.50, ko boste vi ravno čakali na taksi sredi Ljubljane.« Ko me tako prezgodaj za soboto zjutraj prebudi budilka, razmišljam, kako bi bilo krasno odspati še nekaj uric, a me hitro prešine misel, da je pred mano spet en zanimiv dan. In res … Začne se že s pogledom na prelepo Gorenjsko s Triglavom, levo se jutranjemu soncu nasmiha ledenik avstrijskega

najvišjega vrha Grossglocknerja; kmalu tik pod krilom že gledam Salzburg in zasveti »Fasten seat belts«; potniki pred mano, ki niso zatopljeni v časopisje, nejevoljno pospravljajo računalnike, kar pa sploh ni slabo, kot ugotovim. Zrejo skozi okno na sveže pobeljene vrhove in se čez jezero Chiemsee ozirajo dalje proti zahodu, kjer je opaziti veliko mesto. München. Smo že nizko in tik nad znamenito nogometno Allianz areno, ko uzrem vlak, ki me bo kmalu popeljal v sam center mesta. Pristajamo proti soncu in vem, da bo lep dan, saj piha vzhodnik. Pozdrav posadki in že smo na poti v terminal, nato pa mimo še spečega drsališča sledim oznakam za vlak. Vožnja z njim je udobna, prijetno tiha in zanimiva, ko opazujem ljudi in oznake na njihovih kovčkih, ki so, kot kaže, prišli z vsega sveta. Polja zamenjajo vasi, vasi hiše in bloki in predmestja, predmestja pa tema. Tema, ki nakazuje, da je ta vlak pravzaprav metro. In res, izstopim na Marienplatz. Strogi center! Minutko tekočih stopnic in že se čudim, kako lahkotno se pripelješ na glavni trg, kjer se ob pogledu na vse stavbe, ki te obkrožajo, zaveš, da si v enem pomembnejših mest tega sveta. Ura je malo čez devet in mestni vrvež je že prav neverjeten. Konec novembra je in oživijo izložbe meni najljubše blagovnice Galeria Kaufhof. 49


destinacija m端nchen

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Grem počasi mimo in se smejim otrokom, ki s prsti navdušeno tacajo po šipi izložbe in razlagajo staršem, kako medvedek vozi kočijo in kako se zajček vrti na ledu. Smejim se sebi, ko se spomnim, da sem bil konec osemdesetih prav tak. Trg je prav tako privlačen, kot je bil poleti, ko sem bil nazadnje tu in je bilo na ulicah neprimerno več turistov. Dan mi hitro mine v sproščenem pohajkovanju po mestu, kjer združim prijetno s koristnim, ko nakupim vse, po kar sem pravzaprav prišel. V Münchnu je veliko možnosti za ugodne nakupe, saj mesto premore več kot 8.000 trgovin in 15 veleblagovnic, kar je dovolj za vse okuse in denarnice. Ogledam si tudi specializirane trgovine s starinami, ki prevladujejo po Schwabingu, in pobrskam po knjigarnah, ki jih v centru mesta ne manjka. Ravno prav utrujen se odločim, da bo čas za kratek počitek. Kadar sem v Münchnu, si rad privoščim pivo v eni od velikih pivnic, zraven pa se vedno prileže še odličen golaž ali pa pečen piščanec s prilogo. Restavracija, ki me nikoli ne razočara in jo obiščem tudi tokrat, je vsekakor najbolj znamenita pivnica na svetu – Hofbräuhaus. Dolge mize, v narodno nošo oblečene natakarice, bavarska godba in preostane samo še, da si rečem dober tek. Sladica sledi kasneje na ulici – stara in preverjena nemška specialiteta: s čokolado oblito sadno nabodalo. Večerni vlak, s katerim se vračam, je bolj prazen kot poln, saj vsi derejo proti centru na kozarček »glühweina« na glavni trg, a moji sopotnici sta polni vrečki, ki ju bom pospravil v nov zjutraj rezerviran kovček v Lufthansa World Shopu. Sprehod po trgovinicah letališča se konča z neplaniranim nakupom, saj tudi tu velja prednovoletni popust. Prepričujem se, da sem ravno s tem opravljenim nakupom pač prihranil za vlak do mesta in nazaj, ko na ploščadi zagledam Adrijino letalo.

si vzemite še kakšen dan več in si oglejte katerega od odličnih muzejev ali dvorcev, kot je na primer veličastni dvorec Wittelsbach.

Vsak, ki pride v München v začetku oktobra, bi moral vsaj enkrat v življenju obiskati največjo veselico na svetu – Oktoberfest, ki je največji pivski praznik. Ob vseh letnih časih si seveda velja ogledati najbolj množično obiskan muzej v vsej Nemčiji, Tehnični muzej ob reki Isar. Zanj si je vredno vzeti večji del dneva. Veliko Slovencev težko čaka tudi na priložnost za obisk koncerna BMW, ki že s svojimi veličastnimi stavbami jemlje dih. Pa še ena za vse ljubitelje avtomobilizma: če se na Bavarskem zadržujete dalj časa, si vsekakor vzemite čas in se podajte do mesta Ingolstadt, ki leži na strateški legi ob zgornjem toku Donave in se ponaša z nadvse privlačim Audijevim muzejem. Nepozabno doživetje se vam ponudi na vodenem ogledu tovarne kot tudi ob obisku muzeja in razstavnega salona teh lepotcev.

Stevardesa se mi že na daleč široko nasmeje, ko me vidi s polnimi rokami in nasmejanim, a utrujenim pogledom, ki daje slutiti, da je za mano zanimiv dan. In res je tako, še bolj pa prija njen »Dober večer, ja, kje si pa ti spet hodil?« Z eno besedo se ne da opisati, z enim stavkom prav tako ne, vtisov je preveč. Zato se ji le nasmehnem. Najbolje je, da se vsak sam odpravi pogledat in odkrit svoj delček Münchna. Za obisk tega multinacionalnega mesta si vzemite najmanj dva dni. Večina glavnih znamenitosti mesta je razporejenih v okviru notranjega »ringa« – torej so dosegljive peš. Veliko je parkovnih površin, to so »pljuča« mesta in – kar je največ vredno: peš cona za sproščeno pohajkovanje po mestu, ki lahko traja do poznega večera, saj je veliko trgovin in blagovnic odprtih vsaj do 20. ure. V kolikor ste ljubitelji umetnosti, 51


"You needn't bother going anywhere else ... you can't beat Munich, everything else in Germany is a waste of time," Ernest Hemingway enthused in 1932.

As the alarm clock goes off far too early for a Saturday morning, I long for a few more hours' sleep, but I soon remember that I am about to have a very interesting day. And it really was...

Almost a century later, Germany's third largest city continues to maintain its attraction for Germans and foreign tourists alike. The hustle and bustle of a modern city with a romantic Alpine atmosphere is a remarkable combination that keeps tourists coming to the Bavarian capital all year round. Munich is an important European cultural centre thanks to its unparalleled assortment of museums and appealing features such as the blue and yellow trams, tree-lined boulevards, fountains, parks, street cafes, large beer halls and beer gardens. Beer plays an important role in the city and Munich breweries are a major part of the economy. The city is also known as a centre of the film and fashion industries.

It begins with beautiful views of Gorenjska and Triglav; to my left, the glacier on Grossglockner, Austria's highest mountain, winks at the sun. Soon I see Salzburg below the left wing and the "Fasten seat belts" sign comes on. Those passengers in front of me who are not absorbed in newspapers, sullenly put away their laptops, which is no bad thing, I think to myself. They start looking out of the window at the snow-covered mountains below, then across Lake Chiemsee farther to the west, where a large city comes into view. Munich. The plane is flying low now and as we pass the famous Allianz Arena football stadium, I spot the train that will soon take me into the heart of the city. During the landing, we face the sun and I know that it is going to be a beautiful day because an easterly wind is blowing. A quick goodbye to the cabin crew and we are on our way to the terminal; soon after, I pass the still empty ice skating rink and follow the signs for the train. The train ride is comfortable, pleasantly quiet and interesting – it is fun looking at people and the labels on their suitcases from various destinations around the world. Soon, the fields are replaced by villages, the villages by houses, apartment blocks and suburbs. Finally, the suburbs are replaced by – darkness. Darkness that reminds me I am actually on an underground train. I get off at Marienplatz, right in the centre. A minute on the escalator and I am outside, surprised at how easy it is to travel right to the main square where the imposing buildings finally remind you that you are actually in one of the more important cities of this world. It is just after nine and the bustle of the city is in full swing. It is late November and the windows of Galeria Kaufhof, my favourite department store, have come alive. I slowly walk past, laughing at the children tapping on the windows excitedly and telling their parents about the bear driving a carriage and the bunny spinning on ice. Then I laugh at myself as I remember that I was exactly the same in the late 1980s.

Adria pilot Andrej Ropret comes to Munich frequently – usually in his professional capacity, though he sometimes takes time off to visit the city with a special purpose in mind. Home from Munich Loaded with Shopping Bags It all starts on a Friday evening, when I answer the phone to tell friends that no, I can't go out tonight, I'm going shopping tomorrow... After a second's pause, they try and change my mind, saying that I can still go to the shopping centre at noon, when I wake up after a memorable night. "No, you don't understand. I have to get up at 4:50, just when you'll be waiting for a taxi in the centre of Ljubljana." 52


destination mUnich

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destination mUnich

The square looks just as appealing as it did the last time I was here, though that was summer time and there were a lot more tourists in the streets. The day passes quickly. I spend it wandering around the city and taking care of the reason why I'm here – shopping. There are endless bargains to be found in Munich, a city with over 8,000 shops and 15 department stores; there is something for everyone's taste and wallet here. I look at the specialist antique shops in Schwabing and explore the many bookshops in the city centre. Feeling pleasantly tired, I decide to take a short break. Whenever I am in Munich, I like to have a beer and some delicious goulash or roast chicken with potato salad in one of the large beer halls. I choose the restaurant that never lets me down – Hofbräuhaus, the world's most famous beer hall. Long tables, waitresses in traditional costume and Bavarian music – I know that I am going to enjoy the meal. For dessert, I have a chocolate-covered fruit kebab in the street. The evening train to the airport is mostly empty, since everyone is now heading into the centre for a glass of Glühwein in the main square. I am now travelling with two bags full of shopping; I will put them in the new suitcase I reserved at the Lufthansa WorldShop in the morning. A tour of the airport shops ends with an unplanned purchase thanks to the pre-Christmas discounts. I tell myself that the purchase saved me the cost of another train to the city centre and back, and then I see the Adria plane at the gate. The flight attendant greets me with a big smile when she sees that my hands are full and my eyes happy but tired, revealing that I've had a long and interesting day. It is nice to hear her say "Good evening, where have you been again?" It can't be described in a word or even a sentence, there were just too many experiences. So I just smile. The best thing to do is for everyone to go and discover a part of Munich for themselves. Take at least two days off to visit this multicultural city. The majority of the city's most famous sights are situated within the inner ring road and can be reached on foot. There are lots of parks, the "lungs" of the city, but most importantly, there is a pedestrian zone for relaxed walks. They are likely to last well into the evening, since most shops and department stores are open until 20:00 or even later. If you are a fan of the arts, take an extra day or two and visit one of the excellent museums or palaces such as the majestic Wittelsbach palace.

If you are visiting Munich in early October, don't miss the world's largest party, which everyone should experience at least once: Oktoberfest, the largest beer festival in the world. Regardless of the season, a sight not to miss is the museum of technology on the Isar, Germany's most visited museum. It is worth spending most of the day there. Many Slovenians are also excited about visiting the BMW headquarters and museum; even the majestic buildings themselves are a breathtaking sight. Here is another recommendation for car enthusiasts: if you are staying in Bavaria for a while, you should take the time to visit the city of Ingolstadt, strategically located upstream on the Danube. The city boasts an excellent Audi museum. Get ready for an unforgettable experience on a guided tour of the factory, museum and showroom of these magnificent cars.

flies between LJUBLJANA&MUNICH 3 TIMES A DAY !Adria 55


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Audi Forum, Ingolstadt besedilo: jernej dvoršak Fotografije: Audi Media Service

Stojim na semaforju. Ob meni se ustavi starodobnik. Čudovito ohranjen. Znamke ne poznam. Morda je le spremenila logotip in se še danes prodaja z novim. Občudujem dizajn, ki je še iz časov, ko varnost pešcev ni bila na prvem mestu. Le kako bi bila, saj so avtomobili vozili največ 60 kilometrov na uro. Gospod s sivo baretko se odpelje, jaz pa sanjarim naprej, kakšen užitek bi bil usesti se za leseni volan takšnega avtomobila. Avtomobila z dušo. Nemčija, država z bogato tradicijo avtomobilske industrije, se ponaša s kar 170 avtomobilskimi muzeji, od katerih je tudi nekaj zasebnih zbirk, ki so odprte za javnost. Na ogled je vsega 13.000 avtomobilov, dvokolesnikov in drugih večnamenskih vozil. Seveda pa ni večjega avtomobilskega proizvajalca, ki javnosti ne bi predstavil svoje zgodovine. Večinoma pa tu ne gre le za razstave starodobnikov, ampak tudi za predstavitev razvoja in proizvodnje. Nemški Audi, ki sodi v zgornji razred avtomobilskih znamk, je odprl svoj muzej decembra 2000. Koncept in zamisel muzeja Audi museum mobile je na multimedijski in interaktivni način predstaviti zgodovino in prihodnost Audija. Arhitektura muzeja v ovalni stekleni zgradbi oponaša letnice na drevesnem deblu. Atrakcija v muzeju pa je vsekakor 14 premikajočih se Audijevih modelov na največjem paternostru na svetu (paternoster je pomična krožna konstrukcija z verigo odprtih prostorov, ki se počasi pomikajo vertikalno v krogu, tako da ima uporabnik na voljo stopiti v dvigalo, ki potuje bodisi v zgornja bodisi v spodnja nadstropja). Muzej je razdeljen v predvojno ter povojno obdobje in je zasnovan tako, da obiskovalec potuje skozi razvoj znamke od samih začetkov do moderne dobe. Potovanje se začne v drugem nadstropju leta 1899, ko je bil ustanovljen Horch & Cie. Motorenwerke AG, poleg tega pa je podrobno razložena tudi združitev znamk Audi, Horch, DKW in Wanderer, ko je novoustanovljeno podjetje z imenom Auto Union AG leta 1932 dobilo zaščitni znak s štirimi krogi. Obiskovalec si v drugem nadstropju poleg najstarejšega primerka Horch 10-12 PS Tonneeu iz leta 1903 ogleda tudi 16-valjnik Auto Union Hill Climber s kar 520 konjskimi močmi. Nostalgična povojna leta z izjemno hitrimi reli dirkalniki in veličastnimi motocikli pa so postavljena na ogled v prvem nadstropju. V svoji slavi uživa 3-valjni 4-taktni dirkalni motocikel RM 350, ki je zaradi doseženih 12.000 obratov na minuto dobil vzdevek »pojoča žaga«. Temeljni kamen znamke Audi pa je bil

postavljen z modelom Audi 100 iz leta 1968. Na svoj račun pridejo tudi reli navdušenci, kajti razstavljen je tudi dirkalnik s štirikolesnim pogonom Audi Quattro – prava legenda relija, kajti zmagal je že na svojem premiernem nastopu in nato konstantno zmagoval v letih 1980 in 1981. »Svet doživetij«, kot so poimenovali Audi Forum Ingolstadt, ponuja tudi druge zanimivosti. Poleg muzeja si avtomobilski navdušenci lahko ogledajo proizvodnjo, uživajo v kulinaričnih dobrotah, gredo v Audi kino ali pa na »after work« jazz koncert. Verjetno najbolj razburljivo doživetje pa je prevzem novih avtomobilov, ki lahko z ogledom muzeja in proizvodnje traja tudi cel dan. Vsako leto prevzame svoje nove avtomobile okoli 120.000 strank, kar pomeni, da pride dnevno po svoj novi avto povprečno 330 ljudi. Dandanes se ob tako hitrem razvoju lahko vprašamo, ali bodo v prihodnje avtomobilski muzeji še bolj zanimivi, ko nas bodo otroci spraševali, kaj je tista cev pod zadnjim odbijačem. Morda pa bo vzrok dizajn avtomobilov današnjega časa, ko so posodobitve modelov vsakič manjše in manj opazne. Vsekakor pa muzeji postajajo trženjsko orodje za krepitev blagovne znamke in privabljanje turistov.

audi Forum, Ingolstadt text: jernej dvoršak Photography: Audi Media Service

I am waiting at the traffic lights. A vintage car stops alongside me. It is beautifully preserved. I am not familiar with the brand – or maybe they have simply changed the logo used on new cars today. I admire the design, which dates back to an era when pedestrian safety was not a priority. And why should it be, when cars could go no faster than about 60 kmph? The driver, wearing a grey beret, drives off as I fantasise about the pleasures of sitting behind the wooden wheel of a car like that. A car with a soul. Germany has a long tradition in the automotive industry. The country boasts as many as 170 car museums, including several private collections that are open to the public. There is a total of 13,000 cars, motorcycles and other multi-purpose vehicles exhibited. And of course no large car manufacturer

Audi Type R Imperator


AUDI

would pass up the opportunity to show its history to the public. However, their exhibitions are about more than vintage cars – they also aim to present the company's development and production. The German luxury car maker Audi opened its museum in December 2000. The concept and idea behind Audi's moving museum is to present the history and future of Audi through a multimedia, interactive exhibition. The architecture of the glass oval-shaped museum building echoes tree rings. The main attraction is undoubtedly the 14 moving Audi models on the world's largest paternoster (a paternoster consists of a chain of open compartments that move slowly around a vertical loop without stopping and allow users to step into a lift travelling either up or down).

Od znamke Horch do znamke Audi / From Horch to Audi

The museum is divided into the pre-war and postwar periods and is designed in a way that guides visitors through the brand's development from the early beginnings to the present day. The journey begins on the second floor in 1899, when Horch & Cie. Motorenwerke AG was established. There is a also a description of the 1932 merger of Audi, Horch, DKW and Wanderer into a single company, Auto Union AG, which then adopted the famous logo with four interlinked rings. In addition to a Horch 10-12 PS Tonneeu, the oldest exhibit dating back to 1903, the second floor also houses the impressive 16-cylinder, 520-horsepower Auto Union Hill Climber. Exhibits from the nostalgic post-war years – rally racing cars and majestic motorcycles – are shown on the first floor. They include the famous 3-cylinder, 4-stroke racing motorcycle RM 350, whose 12,000 revolutions per minute earned it the nickname of "The Singing Saw". The foundation of the Audi brand is the Audi 100 model made in 1968. The museum also has something for rally enthusiasts: a 4-wheel-drive Audi Quattro racing car. This veritable legend of rally won the first race it took part in and continued winning all through 1980 and 1981. "The world of experience," as the Audi Forum in Ingolstadt is known, also features a number of other attractions. In addition to the museum, car enthusiasts can see the production, enjoy the culinary delights on offer, visit the Audi cinema or attend an "after work" jazz concert. But the most exciting experience is probably the handover of new cars; along with a tour of the museum and production line, it could take all day. Each year, some 120,000 clients collect their new cars, which means an average of 330 people a day.

Audi 225 Front Special Roadster

Considering the speed of development today, car museums might become even more interesting in the future, with our children asking what the pipe below the rear fender was for. Or maybe the reason will be in modern car design and the way model updates are increasingly minor and less apparent. At any rate, museums are rapidly becoming another marketing tool for reinforcing the brand and attracting tourists. 57


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Skrite poti, ki pripovedujejo

zgodbe besedilo in fotografije: Jože balas

»Poletnega večera sedeti kje na parobku trnovske planote, križpotu (ali križadi) pred Krnico, je res poseben užitek. Vsa narava se pripravlja k počitku in sveti gorski mir vlada naokrog. Pred nami leži Vipavsko-Goriška planjava z griči, holmi in brdi, vsa Furlanija z Jadranskim morjem, vsi robovi in vrhovi Kraške planote, v zahodni daljavi pa, kakor v tanki sivi kopreni, visok okvir skalnatih italijanskih planin. Vse to leži pred nami kakor velika razprostrta knjiga prirode, iz katere bere vsakdo po svoji volji.« Tako je Jakob Zupančič v Planinskem vestniku iz leta 1911, torej pred dobrimi sto leti, nagovarjal in vabil slovenske ljubitelje gora in vse ostale na to mogočno in skrivnostno planoto. In čeprav na prvi pogled nezanimiva in dolgočasna, skriva v čarobni tišini prostranih in divjih gozdov marsikatero zanimivost, posebnost, da o njenem največjem bogastvu, samih gozdovih niti ne govorim. Že to, da ne vem, na katerem koncu naj začnem zgodbo, govori svoje. Ali začeti z zgodbo pa tudi s potjo na Gori, kot tudi domačini rečejo delu Trnovskemu gozda med Predmejo in Kovkom, mogoče v Trnovem ali pa malo više na Lokvah, mogoče v Zadlogu. Naj se na pot na planoto odpravim iz Vipave in mimo izvira Hublja do Otliškega okna, mogoče iz idrijske smeri po dolini Belce mimo belških klavž, mogoče z Vojskega ali pa po težko prehodni Peternollijevi grapi iz doline Trebuše, mogoče ... Ja, na desetine poti vodi na to mogočno kraško planoto, divjo in skrivnostno hkrati, in vse so lepe. Planoto, ki je bila najbrž zaradi svoje nedostopnosti, divje narave in včasih skoraj ekstremnih klimatskih značilnosti dolgo časa neposeljena. 59


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Vsekakor so bili prvi naseljenci trnovskega gozda po vsej verjetnosti lovci, gozdarji in pastirji. Tako je že v urbarju goriških grofov iz začetka 16. stoletja omenjenih več planin za pašo. Nekako v istem času se je začelo tudi načrtno gospodarjenje z gozdovi, ki je bilo eno prvih v Evropi. Ustanavljali so se gozdni uradi, vzpostavljali gozdni registri, izdajali so se odloki, nekakšni »gozdni redi«, ki pa so se vse bolj omejevali na pašo v gozdovih in sečnjo za lastne potrebe, za preživetje. Gozd je namreč služil revnemu prebivalstvu za osnovno preživetje, v njem so lovili divjad, pasli svojo čredo in drobnico, v njem so dobivali les za dolge in mrzle zimske noči. Les so tudi prodajali oziroma menjavali za hrano, saj denarja ni bilo nikoli na pretek. Na splošno pa je z lesom služila predvsem gospoda, ki ga je prodajala Benečanom. Prvi zapisi o stalni poselitvi segajo v prvo polovico 17. stoletja, ko je gospoda zaradi dobrih možnosti izkoriščanja gozda za gozdarstvo in lov začela vzpodbujati stalno naselitev, kasneje je temu botroval tudi razvoj steklarstva in oglarstva, saj so bile za delovanje dejavnosti potrebne velike količine lesa, tega pa v trnovskih gozdovih ni nikoli primanjkovalo. Steklarstvo in glažute, steklarske peči, so se v Trnovski gozd preselile iz doline Trebuše, ko je tam začelo primanjkovati lesa, osnovni material, kremečev 60

pesek, pa so še vedno prenašali na hrbtih iz doline Trebuše. Na planoti sta tako v času od 1771 pa vse do 1830 delovali dve glažuti, in sicer v Mrzli in Mojski dragi, vendar ne istočasno, oglarjenje pa je preživelo tako rekoč do moderne dobe, tako kot žganje apna. Trnovski gozd je bil tudi zelo pomemben za idrijski rudnik živega srebra, saj si obstoja tega rudnika brez lesa s Trnovske planote ni bilo mogoče predstavljati. Še bolj nemogoče si je danes predstavljati spravilo lesa s planote v dolino, saj cest tako rekoč ni bilo, vsekakor pa ni bilo mehanizacije, kot jo poznamo danes. Le živa človeška in živalska moč sta bili! Kasneje pa tudi moč vode in spretnost tedanjih inženirjev, ki so že leta 1589 zgradili na reki Zali prve klavže za spravilo lesa v dolino, kasneje tudi na rekah Idrijci in Belci. Sprva so bile lesene in niso uspele kljubovati nepredvidljivim visokim vodam, zato so kasneje postavili kamnite. Leta 1776 so začeli graditi Brusove in Putrihove klavže na Belci. Danes sta obnovljena in predstavljata izjemen tehnični spomenik, obvezen postanek in ogled na naši poti na planoto. Kakor koli, bolj kot je oblast formalno pravno urejala izkoriščanje gozda, tem bolj je omejevala lokalno prebivalstvo in njihove stare privilegije po brezplačnem izkoriščanju gozda za svoje potrebe, kar je vodilo do taborov,


trnovski gozd

nekakšnih protestnih zborov lokalnega prebivalstva pod okriljem društva Soča leta 1871 in 1872 v Renčah. Do njih pa žal ni prišlo, saj jih je oblast prepovedala, ker naj bi bila sama vsebina in ostale točke taborov preveč politično nevarne. No, pa saj vemo, vedno smo bili nekje na prepihu zgodovine, vedno nekje na meji in vedno smo se na tak ali drugačen način zoperstavljali samovolji vladajoče gospode ali pa vojskam. Tudi te je bilo v Trnovskem gozdu vedno dovolj, če ne preveč. Tako Turkov, na katere spominja zgodba o izvoru imena Turški klanec, pa Napoleonovih soldatov, vojakov vseh narodnosti prve svetovne vojne, ki so tu v zaledju krvave soške fronte krpali rane, do zadnje vojne, ki je dala zavetje partizanski Bolnici Pavla in kamor si okupatorji niso niti upali vstopiti dlje kot do njegovega roba. Naravnih znamenitosti ali pa posebnosti je na Trnovski planoti veliko. In če vas na Trnovsko planoto in gozd ne privabijo same naravne lepote, vas bodo mogoče nenavadna imena, kot so Kurja vas, Modrasovec, Petelinovec, Kozji rob, Kobilica, Orlovica, Sinji vrh, že omenjeni Turški klanec ali pa celo Sibirija, »kjer je za en rokav vedno bolj mrzlo kot drugod«, ali Kitajska, na katero spominjajo kilometri in kilometri suhih kamnitih zidov, še bolj verjetno pa zaradi tega, ker so na tem koncu imele družine po 10, 12 ali celo 16 otrok,

in so govorili, da »jih je kot Kitajcev« ... Tu so še druge zgodbe, ki jih vedo še največ povedati vedno nasmejani in prijazni domačini. Omenil sem že veliko naravno Otliško okno, ki naj bi ga bil naredil sam hudič, potem ko je hotel premakniti Čaven, ker naj bi se bilo pod njim skrivalo zlato jezero, pa mu je pri tem spodrsnilo in je z rogom »predru« skalo. Bolj verjetna je razlaga domačinov, ki pravijo, da je stena votla ('otla'), od tod Otlica in Otliško okno. Drugo naravno okno oziroma naravni most se nahaja pri Trnovem in mu pravijo Skozno. Starejši Trnovčan pa se spomni, da so jim kot otročajem pripovedovali zgodbe, kako je bila v starih časih tam zasidrana Neotova barka in so šli v svoji nagajivosti celo tako daleč, da so v steno pritrdili velikansko železno rinko. Današnji otročaji te zgodbe seveda sploh ne poznajo več, še za Skozno niso slišali, saj se ne igrajo več v gmajni, kot so se njihovi očetje in dedje; njihov svet se je skrčil na računalniški zaslon in internet. Tako kot najbrž ne poznajo ljubezenske zgodbe o »roži iz Trnovskega gozda«, Meti Trnovski, prelepi pastirici, ki je s svojo lepoto in milino začarala mladega kromberškega grofa, pa ga v svoji skromnosti in veličini hkrati zavrnila in svoje srce raje predala gozdarju Tonetu. Najbrž ne poznajo niti lovskih zgodb, še posebej tistih, ki govorijo o grofu Chambordu, zadnjem burbonskem kralju Henriku V., ki je danes pokopan v Kostanjevici pri Novi Gorici. 61


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Ja, včasih so bili trnovski gozdovi polni divjadi, še posebej jelenjadi, srnjadi, divjih koz, gamsov ali medvedov, ter divjih petelinov, ki so bili zelo priljubljeni pri grofu Chambordu – ustrelil jih je namreč več deset. No, čisto na drugem koncu, na Mali Gori nad Zadlogom, srečam Zajčevega Marjana, ki je več kot 40 let delal kot gozdar na Trnovski planoti. Njegovi spomini na včasih prav nečloveško in naporno delo so težki, pa kljub temu je nasmeh ves čas zarisan na njegovem obrazu. Od njega izvem še za eno presenetljivo in ne tipično posebnost Trnovskega gozda, ki pa se je žal ohranila le še na fotografijah in v pripovedovanjih domačinov. Na Mali Gori je namreč za časa Italije in vse do leta 1945 deloval mlin na veter. Res je, da je bilo v preteklosti, še pred dobrim stoletjem, na Slovenskem veliko mlinov na veter. Vendar so bili ti v največji meri posejani po Dravskem polju, Štajerski, eden je bil celo na Koprivniku nad Bohinjem, za tega na Trnovski planoti pa sem slišal prvič. Mlinar Filip Viktelič, po domače Pri Košperju, je po vrnitvi iz vojske v Rusiji, kjer je prvič videl te mline, menda rekel, »da jim denar enostavno piha skozi prste«, in zastavil obrt, ki pa jo je prekinila huda poškodba roke prav v mlinu. Na Mali Gori najdemo tudi Kalarjev ledenik, iz katerega so za časa Italije sekali led in ga vozili v Trst. No, še bolj znana jama z večnim ledom in snegom je Velika ledena jama v Paradani, ki je danes zavarovana kot naravni rezervat. Iz omenjene jame so od druge polovice 19. stoletja naprej oskrbovali z ledom Trst, Gorico in Reko, izvažali so ga celo v Egipt, z njim so hladili goriško sadje, namenjeno za izvoz, saj hladilnic v tistih časih niso poznali. Podobno kot pri Smrekovi dragi, ki je skupaj z Golaki razglašena za gozdni in naravni rezervat, je tu lepo viden toploten in rastlinski obrat. Nasploh je v Trnovskem gozdu kar hladno, na kar nas opominjajo metri in metri lesenih klafter na vsakem ovinku in pred domačijami. Povprečna letna temperatura v njegovem osrednjem delu je od 7 do 9 stopinj Celzija, čemur poleg visoke nadmorske višine med 700 in 1495 metri botruje tudi burja, ki se s planote spušča proti morju. In prav burja je kriva še za eno lokalno posebnost, nenavadne dimnike v zaselku Kovk. V starih časih, ko so bile hiše krite s slamnatimi strehami, se stara odprta ognjišča, črne kuhinje, kasneje tudi slabi dimniki skupaj z burjo niso najbolje znašli. Že najmanjša iskrica, ki jih je burja raznašala kot žareče snežinke vsenaokoli, je takoj pognala ogenj v streho, zato so dim speljali skozi brežino do dimnika, ki so ga sezidali za hišo. Danes stojijo v Kovku le še trije taki dimniki, od teh sta dva še vedno v stalni uporabi. Po Trnovskem gozdu, ki zna biti v svoji tišini tako čaroben, da ga le s težavo zapustite, kaj šele pozabite, je speljanih nešteto poti. Tudi takih, ki vas zlahka zmedejo in odpeljejo nekam stran, da boste le težko našli pot nazaj. No, na takih poteh je najlepše, tam vas razen divjadi, šelestenja vetra in lastnih misli ne bo motil nihče. Tja se odpravite peš ali s kolesom in seveda z dobro karto, kompasom ali pa gps-om. Tja se odpravite iskat svoj mir in svojo pot. Ali pa prijateljstvo, kdo ve? In konec poti naj ne bo le čudovito razgledišče s Kopitnika, Poldanovca, Mrazovca, Čavna ali Sinjega vrha. Ne, naj bo to šele začetek novega raziskovanja, novih poti in novih zgodb, ki jih za vas skriva Trnovski gozd. Naj bo to začetek novega prijateljstva!

Kot vir nekaterih zgodb mi je bil v pomoč zanimiv zbornik Zgodbe s Trnovske planote, zbral in uredil Jože Šušmelj, Goriška Mohorjeva družba, 2011, ki jo priporočam v branje vsem ljubiteljem Trnovskega gozda in gora nasploh. 62


The Magical Trnovski gozd Stories of the hidden trails text and photography: Jože balas

“Sitting on a summer evening somewhere on the edge of the Trnovska planota plain, at the crossroads (known locally as “križada”) near Krnica, offers a special kind of pleasure. All of nature is preparing for a good night’s rest, and there is nothing but peace all around – the kind of peace you only find in the mountains. The Vipavsko region stretches out before you – the Goriška planjava plain with its low, rolling hills, all of Friuli and the Adriatic Sea, the peaks and hills of the Kras plain and, far away due west, as if through a thin grey mist, there is the tall frame of the rocky Italian mountains. All of this lies at your feet like a large, open book of nature from which anyone can read whenever they desire to.” With this article published in the Planinski vestnik in 1911 – more than a century ago – Jakob Zupančič appealed to Slovenian and other mountain lovers, inviting them to visit the majestic and mysterious plain of Trnovo. It may seem uninteresting and boring at first glance, but the magical silence of its wild, expansive forests conceals countless sights and attractions, not to mention the most important treasure of the plain – the forests themselves. The fact that I can’t even decide where I should start speaks for itself. Should I begin my story and my journey at Gora (Mountain), the local name for the part of Trnovski gozd (Trnovo forest) that lies between Predmeja and Kovk? Or maybe I should start in Trnovo, at the slightly higher altitude of Lokve or perhaps in Zadlog? On the other hand, I could also set off from Vipava and past the source of the Hubelj to the natural sight of Otliško okno (Otlica window); then there is the Idrija direction that would take me along the Belca Valley past the dam known as Belške klavže. Perhaps I should start in Vojsko, or take the Peternollijeva grapa ravine from the Trebuša valley, or maybe ... Yes, this majestic Kras plain, wild and shrouded in mystery, can be reached by dozens of trails, each more beautiful than the last. For a long time in the past, the plain of Trnovo was too wild and inaccessible, its climactic conditions too extreme for it to be settled by people. It is believed that the first settlers on the Trnovski gozd plain were hunters, foresters and shepherds. The land register maintained by the Counts of Gorizia in the early 16th century records several plains used as pasture land. This era also saw the beginning of systematic forest management in Trnovo, one of the earliest in Europe. Forestry offices and registers were established, ordinances and “forest rules” issued, all of which restricted the use of forests for pasture land and wood for personal needs – for survival. The fact is that the forest had long been used by the poorest segment of the population to scrape out a living – they would hunt for wild game, graze cows and sheep and collect wood for long, cold winter nights. They would also sell wood or trade it for food, since money was always in short supply. But in general, the only people making a profit from the local wood were the upper classes, who sold wood to Venetians. The earliest mentions of permanent settlements on the plain date back to the first half of the 17th century, when the upper classes took note of the excellent opportunities for forestry and hunting and began to support permanent settlement. Later, the population also increased thanks to the development of the glass and charcoal industries, both of which required large quantities of wood – the one thing that the forests of Trnovski gozd had in abundance. Glassblowers and their glassworks (known as “glažute”) moved to Trnovski gozd from the Trebuša Valley where there was a shortage of wood. Silica sand, the basic material for glassmaking, had to be carried by hand up to the plain from the valley. From 1771 to 1830, there were two glassworks operating on the plain, one in Mrzla draga and the other in Mojska draga, although they were not in operation at the same time. 63


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Meanwhile, charcoal and lime production have survived virtually until the present day. Trnovski gozd also played an important role when it came to Idrija’s mercury mine – without the wood brought down from the Trnovska planota plain, there simply wouldn’t be a mine. It is difficult to imagine today how wood was transported from the plain down to the valley in the past when there were hardly any roads and, more importantly, there was none of the machinery that we use now. All they had was human and animal power! However, thanks to the ingenuity of the engineers at the time, they soon learnt to harness the power of water, and as early as 1589, the first “klavže”, a tall dam for transporting wood by water, was built on the Zala River. Later, further klavže dams were built on the Idrijca and Belca. Initially, the dams were made of wood and soon collapsed under the high and unpredictable waters, so they were rebuilt from stone instead. In 1776, construction began on the Brus and Putrih klavže dams on the Belca. Having been fully restored, today they are a fascinating part of Slovenia’s technical heritage and a must-see sight on our way to the plain of Trnovo. One thing is clear: the more rules and restrictions the authorities placed on the use of the forest, the more limited the local population was when it came to their ancient privileges for free exploitation of the forest for personal needs. This led to the rise of protest gatherings (known as “tabori”, camps) of the local population, organised by the Soča Association in 1871 and 1872 in Renče. Unfortunately, the actual gatherings never took place, having been banned by the authorities for being too politically dangerous. But then again, throughout history the Slovenian people have always lived in the eye of the storm, always on the brink of something big and constantly opposing in one way or another the despotic will of the ruling aristocracy or the invading armies. And there were plenty of those in Trnovski gozd also. There were the Turks, whose memory still survives today in the story of how Turški klanec (Turkish slope) got its name; there were Napoleon’s armies; in World War I, soldiers of all nationalities licked their wounds here in the hinterland of the Isonzo Front; and in World War II, the Pavla partisan hospital was concealed here, safe in a forest that the occupying forces never dared to enter. There are plenty of natural sights and attractions on the Trnovska planota plain. If that is not enough to convince you, how about the unusual local names such as Kurja vas (Chicken village), Modrasovec (Viper hill), Petelinovec (Rooster hill), Kozji rob (Goat edge), Kobilica (Grasshopper), Orlovica (Eagle hill), Sinji vrh (Sky blue peak), the abovementioned Turški klanec (Turkish slope), Sibirija (Siberia) – “where it’s always a bit colder than anywhere else” – and Kitajska (China), whose name comes from the endless kilometres of dry stone walls or, more likely, from the fact that families here had as many as 10, 12 or even 16 children, giving rise to the phrase “as many people as in China” ... There are more stories to be heard here, and the friendly locals are always happy to share them. Another sight, one that I have mentioned before, is the large Otliško okno (Otlica window), a natural window in the rock, said to be made by the Devil himself. The story goes that the Devil was trying to lift the mountain of Čaven, which was said to conceal a lake of gold, but then he slipped and pierced the rock with one of his horns. The locals can provide a more plausible explanation: the cliff is hollow (“otla” in the local dialect), which is where the names of Otlica and Otliško okno originate. There is another natural window or rather a natural bridge near Trnovo known as Skozno (Throughway). An older Trnovo inhabitant remembers a story from his childhood saying that in ancient times Noah’s Ark was moored at Skozno, even going so far as to attach a large iron ring to the rock. The children of today have never heard this story and don’t even know about Skozno, since they no longer play in the pastures and forests like their parents and grandparents did – their world has shrunk to the size of a computer screen with an internet connection. Thus, they have probably never heard the love story of Meta Trnovska, “the flower of Trnovski gozd.” She was a shepherdess whose beauty and grace enchanted the young Count of Kromberg, but Meta turned him down and gave her heart to Tone the forester instead. Other stories modern children have probably never heard include the many stories of hunting, including those about the Count of 64

Chambord – Henri V, the last Bourbon king, who lies buried in Kostanjevica near Nova Gorica. In those days, the forests of Trnovo were full of wild game, especially deer, roe deer, wild goats, chamois, bears and wood grouse; the latter were the Count’s favourite and he shot several dozen of them. On the other end of the plain, on the Mala gora Mountain over Zadlog, I run into Zajčev Marjan; he worked as a forester on the plain of Trnovo for over 40 years. The work could be inhumanly difficult and exhausting, but even though his memories of the time are harsh, the smile never leaves his face. He tells me of another surprising and atypical feature of Trnovski gozd that has sadly only been preserved in photographs and stories told by locals. Until 1945, when this part of the country belonged to Italy, there was a windmill on Mala gora. It is true that in the past and as recently as a century ago, there were plenty of windmills in Slovenia. However, most of them could be found on Dravsko polje, in the Štajerska region; I know that there was even a windmill on Koprivnik over Bohinj, but I had never heard of a windmill on the plain of Trnovo before. The windmill was miller Filip Viktelič’s idea (his homestead was known locally as “Pri Košperju”, “At Košper’s”). He first saw windmills in Russia, where he was in the army; he described them as “money carried into your hands on the wind” and when he


tHE MAGICAL TRNOVSKI GOZD

returned home, he started working as a miller. Unfortunately, his career was cut short by a severe injury to his arm that he sustained in the windmill. Another natural sight to be found on Mala gora is Kalarjev ledenik (Kalar glacier); under Italian rule, ice was carved out of the glacier and transported all the way to Trieste. There is also a famous cave here, similarly covered in eternal ice and snow – known as Velika ledena jama (Large ice cave) in Paradana, it has been designated a nature reserve. After the second half of the 19th century, the cave was used to provide ice for Trieste, Gorizia and Rijeka. The ice even found its way to Egypt as it was used to cool fruit exported from Gorizia, since this was a time before refrigerated storage had been invented. Like the Smrekova draga ravine – a forest and natural reserve along with Golaki – there is clear evidence here of temperature and vegetation inversion. In general, it is relatively cold in Trnovski gozd, something you are constantly reminded of by the endless piles of firewood at every step and in front of every house. The average annual temperature in the central part of the plain is 7 to 9°C; in addition to the high altitude (700 to 1495 m), the cold is also due to the bora wind that blows from the plain in the direction of the sea. The bora is the reason behind another local particularity – unusual chimneys in the village of Kovk. The houses of old were covered by thatched roofs

and kitchens had open fires or, later, poorly constructed chimneys; together with the bora wind, this was a poor combination. The smallest spark, carried on the wind like a burning snowflake, was enough to start a fire in the roof. The problem was solved by running smoke out of the kitchen through the ground and into the chimney built behind the house. Three such chimneys have been preserved in Kovk, two of which continue to be used today. Trnovski gozd can be so magical in its peaceful silence that it is difficult to convince yourself to leave it. There are countless trails leading through it, including trails that will thoroughly confuse you and lead you in the wrong direction until you can hardly find your way back. I find them most enjoyable of all, since there is nothing but animals, wind and your own thoughts to interrupt you there. You can visit Trnovski gozd on foot or by bicycle, but always remember to bring a good map, a compass or a GPS device. Visit Trnovski gozd to find your inner peace and your own path. You might even find a new friend – who knows? And don’t let the beautiful lookout spots on Kopitnik, Poldanovec, Mrazovec, Čaven or Sinji vrh be the end of your trip. Make them the beginning of brand new adventures, new trails and new stories hiding in Trnovski gozd just for you. Make it the beginning of a new friendship! 65


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GRAD ZAPRICE Muzej, kjer je shranjena večtisočletna zgodovina Kamnika BESEDILO: Polona Zupančič FOTOGRAFIJE: Blaž Zupančič

Kamnik je slikovito srednjeveško mesto ob vznožju gora, ki v sebi skriva marsikateri biser. Kraljujeta mu Veliki in Mali grad, redkokdo pa pozna grad Zaprice, le malo dvignjen nad staro mestno jedro. Danes tu domuje muzej občin Kamnik, Trzin in Komenda, ki je brez dvoma vreden ogleda.

Srednjeveška zasnova samega gradiča se do danes ni bistveno spremenila, dodali so ji le dve stavbi za gospodarske prostore. Obdaja ga ograjen vrt, ki nudi zanimive poglede na Kamnik in okoliške očake. H gradu spada tudi muzej na prostem, kjer so na ogled kašče, sem prenesene iz Tuhinjske doline. V samem gradu so v vseh treh nadstropjih razstavni prostori, pritličje pa je bilo letos prenovljeno. Na novo zasnovana muzejska razstava Odsevi kamniških tisočletij nam še bolj slikovito in zanimivo predstavlja zgodovino Kamnika in okolice. Vsako obdobje od prazgodovine do danes je pustilo tu sledi, ki so jih uspeli ohraniti, in nekatere dragocenosti so danes prvič na ogled. Najprej nas pozdravi ogromen mamut, ki varuje jamo. Njegove 20.000 let stare kosti so bile najdene v Nevaljah pri Kamniku, hrani pa ga Prirodoslovni muzej v Ljubljani. Tu lahko vidimo rebro in podlahtnico, najdena leta 1910 v Kamniški Bistrici pod Mokrico. In zgodbe se začnejo vrstiti pred našimi očmi. Človek, ki se je tu naselil pred 5 do 6 tisoč leti, je prikazan v sliki in predmetih. Njegovo vsakdanje življenje, rituali in spretnosti nam povedo, da je bil spreten in iznajdljiv, začudi pa nas, kako so starodavne sekire podobne našim. Posoda in nakit ter orožje so iz časa bronaste in železne dobe. Ko vstopimo v prvo sobo, lahko na nazoren način spoznavamo življenje Rimljanov. Shramba, kuhinja in jedilnica ter hišni oltarček so ambienti, ki čuvajo predmete častitljive starosti. Tudi rekonstrukcija sodarske delavnice iz 3. stoletja pokaže marsikatero podobnost z današnjimi delavnicami. Po naselitvi Slovanov se približamo nastanku mesta. Kamnik je eno najstarejših mest na Slovenskem, s pisnim virom iz leta 1143. Življenje na gradu in obrambo mesta spoznavamo preko predmetov in starih fresk iz okoliških cerkva, predvsem sv. Primoža nad Kamnikom, kjer si jih lahko ogledamo v živo. 67


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Kot v starih časih se realnost prepleta z legendami, ki so še danes žive med tamkajšnimi ljudmi: o kruti princesi Veroniki, ki ni hotela pomagati ljudem in se je zakleta spremenila v kačo. Pa o jezeru, ki je odteklo, o okamenelemu lovcu, če naštejemo le najbolj znane. Ohranjena je tudi pesem o Juriju Hajdniku, ki je 10 let trpel v ječi. Nasledja soba nas popelje skozi obzidje v mesto Kamnik. Popis obrtnikov na osnovi davčnega registra mesta Kamnik iz leta 1545 nam pove, s čim so se ukvarjali meščani. Razen vsakdanjih poklicev, ki so živi še danes – pek, čevljar ali mesar –, jih je veliko že izumrlo – barvar, sedlar ali podkvar. V vitrinah so zbrani predmeti, ki so jih uporabljali v posameznih poklicih. Množica različnih mer kaže, kako natančni so bili predpisi, pa kako komplicirani! Mimo zakladne najdbe novcev iz Češnjic iz 16. stoletja in opisa trgovskih poti skozi Tuhinjsko dolino pridemo v naslednjo sobo, v novejše čase. Na desno vstopimo v cerkev, kjer ob tihi glasbi občudujemo dragocena kipa stražarjev božjega groba in druge nabožne predmete. Na levi pa nas obdobje protireformacije pričaka z dragoceno Dalmatinovo Biblijo iz leta 1584. Življenje meščanov in plemenitašev simbolizira ambient salona s

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portretom plemiča Jakoba Jošta Thurna iz prve polovice 17. stoletja. Kulturni razcvet 18. in 19. stoletja spoznavamo preko slikarstva, kiparstva, glasbe in arhitekture iz okolice. V zadnji sobi dominira figura Marije Terezije, ki je močno zaznamovala našo zgodovino. Njene reforme so se dotaknile vseh področij življenja. Prva je dovolila hčeram, da dedujejo kmetije, pregnala je lakoto z uvedbo gojenja krompirja, zapirala samostane, uvedla obvezno šolanje in še marsikaj. Vse najpomembnejše reforme lahko preberemo v omari, ki simbolizira uvedbo uradništva v državi. Življenje podeželja predstavlja kmečka izba z etnološkimi predmeti iz 18. in 19. stoletja. V kotu pa se seznanimo z rokovnjači. To so bili razbojniki, večinoma ubežniki od vojakov, ki so se preživljali z ropanjem po vaseh in cestah. Ohranjena je sodba proti njim in še žive legende. Imeli pa so tudi svoj jezik, ki ga lahko poslušamo ali pa polistamo po slovarju. Razstavni prostori so tudi v prvem in drugem nadstropju, kjer se seznanimo z življenjem kamniških meščanov in pastirjev z Velike planine.


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Tu se odtisne novec ali potipa pravi pergament, tam se sestavi grad iz kock ali spremlja trgovca na potovanju. Izmerite se lahko v centimetrih, pedeh ali čevljih, prisluhnete legendam ali se spopadete z zapletenim rokovnjaškim jezikom. Muzej ima veliko dragocenih predmetov, predvsem pa je zanimiv za otroke. Razstava je zasnovana tako, da obiskovalci vseskozi aktivno sodelujejo pri spoznavanju zgodovine. Gledanje, poslušanje, otip, vse to pripomore k temu, da si zgodovinska dejstva igraje zapomnimo. Tu se odtisne novec ali potipa pravi pergament, tam se sestavi grad iz kock ali spremlja trgovca na potovanju. Izmerite se lahko v centimetrih, pedeh ali čevljih, prisluhnete legendam ali se spopadete z zapletenim rokovnjaškim jezikom. Strokovne podrobnosti so skrite v računalniških zaslonih, še več zanimivosti pa bosta povedali strokovni vodički, kustosinji razstave, direktorica Zora Torkar in arheologinja Janja Železnik, ki sta razstavo skupaj z oblikovalko Polono Zupančič tudi zasnovali. Obisk gradu je gotovo zanimiv za celo družino. Če boste prišli kako lepo sončno soboto, se vam lahko zgodi, da boste srečali mladoporočenca, ki se bosta tu poročila. Morda jima boste kot naključni gostje prinesli srečo, kot pravijo Italijani. 69


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ZAPRICE CASTLE The museum where several thousand years of Kamnik’s history is kept TEXT: Polona zupančič PHOTOGRAPHY: blaž zupančič

Kamnik is a picturesque medieval city at the foot of the mountains that hides many gems. It is dominated by the Great and the Small Castle (Veliki in Mali grad), but few know about Zaprice Castle, which is located just above the old city centre. Today, it houses the museum of the Municipalities of Kamnik, Trzin and Komenda and is definitely worth seeing. The medieval design of the small castle has not been changed in any significant way; only two buildings were added to be used as commercial facilities. It is surrounded by a garden that offers a great view of Kamnik and the surrounding mountains. The castle also includes an outdoor museum where visitors can see granaries that were transferred here from the Tuhinjska Valley. The castle itself contains exhibition rooms on all three levels, and the ground floor was renovated this year. The newly designed museum exhibition called The Reflections of Kamnik’s Millennia presents the history of Kamnik and the surroundings in an even more picturesque and interesting way. Each period from prehistory to the 70

present has left its mark here, which its people have succeeded in preserving. Some of those valuables are on exhibit for the first time. First, you are greeted by an enormous mammoth guarding a cave. Its 20,000 year old bones were found in Nevalje near Kamnik and are now kept by the Slovenian Museum of Natural History. Here, visitors can see a rib and an ulna that were found in 1910 in Kamniška Bistrica under the Mokrica Mountain. From there, the stories begin unravelling before your eyes. The first human who settled here 5 to 6 thousand years ago is shown in pictures and through various objects. His everyday life, rituals and skills tell us that he was skilful and inventive, and one can also be astonished how much the ancient axes are similar to present day axes. Containers, jewellery and weapons from the Bronze and the Iron Age are also included. By entering the first room, visitors get to know the life of the Romans in a vivid way. The pantry,


ZAPRICE CASTLE

kitchen and dining room and the home altar are the ambient that guards objects of a venerable age. The reconstruction of the barrel workshop from the 3rd century is also somewhat similar to present day workshops. After the settlement of the Slavs, visitors come closer to the creation of the city. Kamnik is one of the oldest cities in Slovenia, mentioned in a written source from 1143. Visitors get to know about life in the castle and the defence of the city through objects and old frescos from the surrounding churches, primarily the St. Primož nad Kamnikom, where visitors can see them on their own. As in old times, reality intertwines with legends that are still alive among the people living here: About a cruel princess Veronica who did not want to help people and was cursed and turned into a snake; about a lake that leaked out; about a hunter turned to stone and these are only the most known stories. The Song of Jurij Hajdnik, who suffered in jail for 10 years, is also preserved. The next room leads visitors through a wall into the city of Kamnik. The list of craftsmen based on the tax register of Kamnik from 1545 tells us what the citizens did for a living. Besides everyday professions that continue today such as baker, shoemaker or butcher, many have become extinct: dyer, saddler or horseshoe-maker. Showcases contain objects that were used in individual professions. The great number of various measures shows how exact the regulations were and how complicated. The path past the treasure of coins from Češnjice from the 16th century and the description of the trade routes through the Tuhinjska Valley leads us to the next room, into a more modern era. On the right, visitors can enter a church, where alongside quiet music they can admire the statues of the guards of the holy grave and other religious objects. On the left, the anti-Reformation period presents a valuable Dalmatin Bible from 1584. The life of citizens and nobles is symbolised by the ambiance of the saloon with a portrait of the noble Jakob Jošt Thurn from the first half of the 17th century. The cultural bloom of the 18th and the 19th century can be witnessed through the art of painting, statuary art, music and the architecture from the surrounding area.

In the last room, the most prominent spot belongs to the figure of Mary Theresa of Austria, who had a significant impact on our history. Her reforms touched on all areas of life. She was the first to allow daughters to inherit farms, she drove away hunger by introducing the cultivation of the potato, she closed down cloisters and she introduced obligatory schooling and many other reforms. All of her most important reforms can be found listed in a closet that symbolises the introduction of bureaucracy to the country. The life in the country is represented by a farm chamber with ethnological objects from the 18th and 19th century. In the corner, visitors can find out about “rokovnjači”. They were bandits, mostly deserters from the army, who survived by carrying out robberies in villages and on the roads. What has been preserved of them is a judgement against them and legends. They also had their own language, which visitors can get to know by listening or by leafing through their dictionary. Exhibition rooms are also located on the first and second levels, where visitors can get to know the life of the citizens of Kamnik and the shepherds from the Velika planina Mountain. The museum has many valuable objects and is interesting primarily for children. The exhibition is designed so that the visitors can cooperate actively in getting to know the history throughout the museum. Watching, listening and feeling, all this helps visitors to remember the historical information better. Visitors can press a new coin, feel a real parchment, construct a castle out of cubes or follow a trader on his journey. Visitors can measure their height in centimetres, spans or feet, listen to legends or try to master the complex language of the “rokovnjači”. Expert details are hidden on computer screens, but even more interesting details will be revealed by expert guides and the museum curator as well as director Zora Torkar and archaeologist Janja Železnik, who both designed the exhibition together with Polona Zupančič. The visit to the castle will surely prove interesting for the whole family. If you visit on a sunny Saturday, you might meet newlyweds getting married here. You might even bring them luck as coincidental guests, as the Italians believe.

Visitors can press a new coin, feel a real parchment, construct a castle out of cubes or follow a trader on his journey. Visitors can measure their height in centimetres, spans or feet, listen to legends or try to master the complex language of the “rokovnjači”. 71


072


med bizeljskimi Vinogradi

mED Bizeljskimi

vinogradi

in repnicami BESEDILO: MARJAN ŽIBERNA FOTOGRAFIJE: Boštjan Pucelj

Ta zgodbica bi se lahko začela pred leti – s spominom na čas, ki sem ga prebil v študentskem domu; imel sem 'cimra', s katerim sva si bila močno različna. On je bil priden študent, ki ga je izbrani študij navduševal, medtem ko jaz za svojega nisem gojil nobenega zanimanja. Bil je visok, krepak fant, ki je na vrata omare lepil slike nabildanih mladcev in mladenk, sam pa sem občudoval vsakogar, ki se je spogledoval z mušjo kategorijo. Cimer je poslušal Modern Talking, Duran Duran in take reči, jaz pa Floyde, Stonse, Partibrejkerse … Res sva bila oba kmečka fanta, kar bi morda lahko predstavljalo stično točko, a kaj, ko mene, za razliko od njega, kmetijstvo ni kaj dosti zanimalo. Pa sva kljub tem razlikam odlično shajala.

Ko sem se priklatil domov, je on svojo muziko stišal, prav tako jaz svojo, ko je v sobo vstopil on. Ko je šel zvečer spat, sem, če sem bil doma, ugasnil luč, on pa je zjutraj, ko se je odpravljal na predavanja, hodil po prstih in previdno odpiral vrata, da me ne bi, zaspanca zaspanega, zbudil. In o svojih domačih vinogradih se je rad razgovoril s takim žarom, da sem vselej obsedel in ga na lastno presenečenje z zanimanjem poslušal ter povprašal po tem in onem v zvezi s pridelavo vina. Seveda sva pri tem tudi popila kakšno steklenico kapljice, ki jo je prinesel od doma. Ob njegovem govorjenju je imela povsem drugačen okus, kot bi ga imela sicer. Njegovo vino je bilo odlično, kar so tisti, ki so vedeli, kaj je dobro vino, povedali ob vsaki priložnosti; meni, tedaj zapriseženemu nezmernemu pivcu piva, pa je takšno postalo ob njegovih besedah in razlagah. Moj sostanovalec je govoril o vinogradništvu in nasploh o svojem rodnem Bizeljskem s takim navdušenjem, da sem si velikokrat rekel: nekoč moram pomoliti svoj nos v njegovo zidanico in poskusiti kapljico, ki jo ima doma v velikih sodih; res moram obiskati te njegove vesele gorice in opevano Bizeljsko … 73


med bizeljskimi Vinogradi

A saj vemo, koliko je stvari, ki jih nameravamo nekoč napraviti, pa jih potem nikoli ne. Tudi v tem primeru bi kaj zlahka ostalo pri namenih. Leta potem, ko so se najini študentski časi iztekli in poti razšle, sem namreč po naključju popil kozarec izvrstnega vina in ob pogledu na etiketo na steklenici presenečen ugotovil, da je iz kleti mojega nekdanjega sostanovalca. Sklenil sem, da ga obiščem, a tudi ta sklep je zvodenel. Tako je minilo kar lepo število let, da je Bizeljsko, ki sem ga prej poznal bolj ali manj le iz ’cimrovih’ pripovedi, dobilo v mojih predstavah resnično podobo. Ko so mi naročili, naj za ta konec Slovenije napišem turistični vodnik, sem se podal po teh poteh; z zadovoljstvom sem ugotavljal, da so tamkajšnje gorice res takšne kot v mojih idiličnih predstavah iz študentskih let, kar velja še posebej za jesenski čas. In lahko sem ugotovil še marsikaj drugega: denimo, da je območje dobilo svoje sedanje ime po osnovi nemškega poimenovanja Wisell; Nemci so namreč tu ustanavljali vasi, a so mnoge med njimi v 14. stoletju zaradi gospodarske krize opustele. Pa da je Bizeljsko postalo zibelka sodobnega slovenskega vinogradništva skladno z latinskim rekom »Calamitas virtutis occasio est« – »Nesreča je priložnost za vrlino«. V 80-ih letih 19. stoletja je namreč tukajšnje vinograde tako rekoč v celoti uničila trtna uš. A napredni vinogradniki so se pri ponovnih zasaditvah ravnali po novostih v pridelovanju vina in

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se lotili cepljenja trsa na ameriških podlagah. Že kmalu so se na Bizeljsko prihajali učit sodobnega vinogradništva tudi od drugod. Po težkih časih, ki so jih doživljali v letih obeh velikih vojn in tudi med njima, so si ti kraji sredi minulega stoletja opomogli in Bizeljsko je zaslovelo s svojimi odličnimi vini, predvsem belimi. Bizeljsko oz. vinorodni okoliš Bizeljsko–Sremič ima dolgo tradicijo in ugled v pridelavi vin. Na tukajšnjih gričih so gojili trto in iz njenega grozdja pridelovali vino že pred dobrimi 600 leti; verjetno pa je tradicija še veliko starejša in sega v čas rimljanskih naseljencev v prvih stoletjih našega štetja. Tu so bili nekoč vinogradi različnih starih sort trt, od katerih pa se je ohranil le rumeni plavec, ki je še vedno priljubljen. Danes pridelujejo različna sortna vina, ki pogosto pobirajo nagrade in sodijo po mnenju poznavalcev med najboljša slovenska vina. Za širši vinorodni okoliš so značilni modra frankinja, beli in modri pinot ter laški rizling pozne trgatve, samo Bizeljsko pa je znano tudi po rdečem in belem bizeljčanu, vinih s priznanim tradicionalnim poimenovanjem. Prav gotovo velja omeniti tudi penino, ki jo pridelujejo nekateri vinogradniki. Zlasti uveljavljena je penina družine Istenič iz Stare vasi. Ta družina se je kot prvi zasebni proizvajalec penin v Sloveniji lotila njene proizvodnje v 60. letih minulega stoletja.

Povsem mogoče, celo zelo verjetno je, da mi je o teh stvareh pripovedoval že moj študentski kolega, a si jih nisem zapomnil. Manj verjetno pa se mi zdi, da bi me poučil še o neki drugi zanimivosti iz teh krajev – o repnicah. Tedaj namreč ti prostori za shranjevanje še niso imeli tako ugledne naloge, kot jo opravljajo danes. Repnice – jame, skopane v pesek, ki ga je v pradavnini naneslo sem Panonsko morje –, so posebnost Bizeljskega. V nanose kremenovega peska so začeli kmetje že pred stoletji, verjetno pa še veliko prej, kopati podzemne shrambe. V njih so shranjevali svoje pridelke, največ repo, ki je botrovala njihovemu poimenovanju. Zbiti nanosi peska tudi zelo dobro zadržujejo vodo, tako da blagodejno vplivajo na kmetijstvo, vključno z vinogradništvom, saj preprečujejo izsuševanje tal. Danes vinogradniki uporabljajo mnoge stare ali na novo izkopane repnice – nekatere segajo deset in celo več metrov globoko – za shranjevanje vina. Zanje sta značilni dokaj konstantna temperatura, običajno od 5 do 10⁰ C, in kljub prezračevanju in krožečemu zraku tudi stalno visoka vlažnost. Prav visoka vlažnost je razlog, da dodatni gradbeni materiali pri kopanju repnic niso potrebni, saj vlaga medsebojno veže kremenčev pesek, prav tako pa tudi preprečuje izsuševanje plutovinastih zamaškov na vinskih steklenicah.


med bizeljskimi Vinogradi

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med bizeljskimi Vinogradi

Tak način shranjevanja vina je postal privlačna posebnost, zato so mnoge repnice, ki služijo kot vinske kleti, odprte za obiskovalce, nekatere so tudi vključene v Bizeljsko-Sremiško vinsko turistično cesto.

Obisk take repnice je, lahko povem iz izkušnje, izjemno prijetna stvar: o kakovosti vina je dvom odveč, kmečke dobrote, s katerimi si obložite notranjost želodca, da ne bi pili na tešče, so odlične, družba že kar kmalu prijetno razigrana, podzemni prostor pa se izkaže še s posebno akustiko in kar zgrabi vas, da od samega navdušenja zapojete … 76

Povsem mogoče, da niste najbolj poklicani za to, a pomanjkanje posluha z lahkoto nadomestite z voljo do njega. No, vsaj sam zase lahko to rečem. Kakšni Pink Floydi vam v tem okolju res ne morejo pasti na pamet, bolj verjetno En hribček bom kupil. Kar je čisto na mestu izbira – na Bizeljskem je namreč nekaj časa služboval Anton Martin Slomšek, škof, ki ga je Cerkev že spoznala za blaženega, tako da je sedaj na čakalni listi za razglasitev za svetnika. Slomšek je bil mož, ki se je denimo zavzemal za trdo vzgojo otrok in Bogu všečno življenje, zaradi česar mu je njegov sodobnik France Prešeren namenil ostro zbadljivko. A škof se je očitno znal tudi udobrovoljiti: En hribček bom kupil je pesmica – kar ni prav široko znano –, ki jo je napisal prav on. Ko se že znajdete na tem koncu, si velja ogledati še nekaj stvari, ki pričajo o zgodovini teh krajev. Denimo zasebno etnografsko zbirko v kraju Bizeljsko pa grad Pišece, ki stoji na pobočju nad vasjo z istim imenom, kjer imajo tudi manjši kovaški muzej, pa grad Bizeljsko, kjer danes živi družina Klakočar–Wisell, ki se že desetletja uspešno ukvarja z vinogradništvom. Njihova bogata vinska klet je ogleda vredna, a če vprašate mene, se človek v repnici, preurejeni v vinsko shrambo, počuti najbolje. Borih nekaj metrov pod zemeljskim površjem se zdijo vsakovrstne tegobe, ki sicer jedkajo in cefrajo utrujene živce, neznansko daleč. Nobenih zagotovil ni, da vas nadloge, ko pomolite glavo spet na svetlo, ne bi potrpežljivo čakale, a se zdijo nekako manj zoprne, bolj znosne, lažje obvladljive …


Among the vineyards

Among the Vineyards and Root Cellars of Bizeljsko TEXT: mARJAN ŽIBERNA Photography: BOŠTJAN PUCELJ

This little story could have started many years ago; I am thinking of the time that I spent at the student halls of residence, where I had a roommate who was completely different than me. He was a dedicated student, who was enthusiastic about his studies, while I had absolutely no interest in mine. He was the tall, athletic type, and he used to put pictures of fit young men and women up on his wardrobe doors, while I had a strong preference for the flyweight category. My roommate liked Modern Talking, Duran Duran and similar bands, while I listened to Pink Floyd, The Rolling Stones, Partibrejkers... We both had a farming background that might have served as common ground between us if only I (unlike him) had had the slightest interest in agriculture. But despite our many differences, we got along great.

When I came home, he would turn down the music that he was listening to, and I would do the same whenever he came into the room. When he went to bed in the evening, I would turn out the light if I was home; when he was getting ready for lectures in the morning, he would tiptoe around the room and open the door quietly so as not to wake me up. And he used to love talking about his family vineyards – he was so enthusiastic about them that to my surprise I found myself captivated by the subject; I always listened to him with genuine interest and asked questions to find out more about the process of making wine. Obviously, during these conversations we also enjoyed a bottle of wine that he brought with him from home. Listening to him talk added something special to the taste of the wine. People who know quality wine when they taste it never missed an opportunity to stress that the wines produced by my roommate's family were simply superb; my preference at the time was for drinking large quantities of beer, but thanks to our discussions and his explanations, I always enjoyed the wines that he brought with him. My roommate used to talk about wine-growing and about Bizeljsko, his native region, with such enthusiasm that I would often say to myself, “one day I really have to stop by his wine cellar and try a drop of the stuff he keeps in the big barrels there; I just have to visit these vineyards of his and the famed Bizeljsko...” But we all know how these things go – we have the best intentions of doing something, but then we never come around to actually doing it. In my case, I came very close to never acting on my intentions. Years later, long after we had both finished our studies and gone our separate ways, I happened to enjoy an excellent glass of wine; looking at the label on the bottle, I was surprised to discover that it came from my former roommate's cellar. Again I decided to pay him a visit, and again I gradually forgot about my intention. 77


Among the vineyards

A great many years passed before I finally saw for myself the Bizeljsko region that I had known about more or less solely through my roommate's stories. It wasn't until I was asked to write a tourist guide covering that part of Slovenia that I finally headed there. I was happy to find that, especially in autumn, the Bizeljsko vineyards really did look exactly like in the idyllic pictures that I had imagined during my student years. I also found a number of other things such as that the modern name for this region developed from its old German name, Wisell; Germans once built several villages here, but many of them were abandoned in the 14th century due to an economic crisis. I also learnt that Bizeljsko became the birthplace of modern Slovenian viticulture in keeping with a Latin proverb that states, "Calamitas virtutis occasio est" or "Calamity is virtue's opportunity". You see, in the 1880s, the local vineyards were almost entirely destroyed by the wine louse. Fortunately, the forward-thinking local wine-growers learnt about the latest developments in viticulture and replanted their vineyards with vines grafted onto American roots. Soon, people came to Bizeljsko from far and wide to learn about the modern methods of wine-growing. After the difficult times suffered by this region during and between the two world wars, Bizeljsko finally recovered in the mid-20th century and quickly gained a reputation for producing quality wines, particularly white varieties. Bizeljsko or, more accurately, the Bizeljsko-Sremič wine-growing region has a long tradition and established reputation when it comes to producing wine. It is certain that as many as 600 years ago vines were grown here and wines were produced from their grapes; however, the local wine-producing tradition is likely to be even older than that, probably dating back to the time of Roman settlers in the first centuries AD. Various old varieties of vines were once grown here, of which only the still-popular Rumeni Plavec (Yellow Plavec) has been preserved. Today there are a number of varietal wines produced in the region; they frequently win awards and are considered by experts to be some of the finest wines in Slovenia. The wines most characteristic of the wider wine-growing region are Blaufränkisch, Pinot Blanc, Pinot Noir and late harvest Welschriesling, while Bizeljsko itself is also known for red and white Bizeljčan, wines with recognised traditional denomination. The sparkling wines produced by some wine-growers also deserve a mention. The sparkling wine produced by the Istenič family from Stara vas is particularly well established. With production that started in the 1960s, the Istenič family was Slovenia's first private producer of sparkling wines. It is entirely possible – very likely even – that my old roommate told me about all of these things back in the day and I had simply forgotten about them. But it is less likely that he also told me about another interesting tradition that has been kept alive in this region: the root cellar, known locally as "repnica" ("turnip cellar"). Back then, these storage holes were used for much less important purposes than they serve today. Root cellars are caves dug into the sand that was deposited here by the Pannonian Sea in prehistoric times; they are a local characteristic of Bizeljsko. Many centuries ago, farmers started digging into quartz sand deposits to create underground storage spaces. These caves were used to store the produce, usually turnips, which gave the cellars their original name. The sand deposits are so tightly packed that they hold water extremely well and prevent the ground from drying out, which is obviously beneficial for viticulture and agriculture in general. In addition to digging out new root cellars, some as deep as 10 m or more, wine-growers today also continue to use many of the old root cellars for storing wine. These cellars maintain a constant temperature between 5 and 10°C and a consistently high level of humidity despite the ventilation and circulation of air. When making a root cellar, there is no need for other construction materials thanks to the moisture that binds the quartz sand together and prevents the cork stoppers in wine bottles from drying out. This method of storing wine has become an appealing peculiarity and many of the root cellars that are used as wine cellars are open to visitors, while some are even included in the Bizeljsko-Sremič wine road. 78


Among the vineyards

Speaking from experience, I can tell you that a visit to one of these root cellars is highly enjoyable: obviously there is the fine wine, but there are also delicious rustic dishes to line your stomach with before drinking, there is always lively and cheerful company and the underground space has excellent acoustics that will make you want to sing for joy... You might not be the best person for it, but any lack in talent can easily be replaced by a sufficient amount of enthusiasm. At least that is what I've found. It is true that bands like Pink Floyd are not the most appropriate choice in these surroundings and that you are more likely to launch into something like En hribček bom kupil ("I Will Buy a Small Hill"), a traditional Slovenian drinking song, but there is nothing wrong with that choice – Bizeljsko is the very region where Anton Martin Slomšek worked for some time. Slomšek was a Slovenian bishop who has been beatified by the Church and is now on the waiting list to become a saint. In his life, Slomšek was a God-fearing man who believed in the strict upbringing of children, which even earned him a short but taunting poem from his contemporary, the great poet France Prešeren. However, it seems that the bishop also knew how to have fun: it is a little known fact that he was the very person who wrote En hribček bom kupil.

If you find yourself in this part of Slovenia, there are a few other things worth seeing that will help you to discover the history of the region. There is for instance the private ethnology collection in the town of Bizeljsko; the Pišece Castle, which is situated on a slope overlooking the village of Pišece, where you will also find a small blacksmithing museum; and the Bizeljsko Castle, today the home of the Klakočar-Wisells, a successful wine-growing family with decades of tradition. Their abundantly stocked wine cellar is well worth seeing, but if you ask me, there is no place more enjoyable than an old root cellar that has been converted into a wine cellar. A few metres below the surface of the earth, the many worries that torture and fray your weary nerves every single day will suddenly seem to disappear. Of course there is no guarantee that your troubles won't be there waiting patiently for you when you return to the surface, but somehow they will seem less worrisome and more bearable and easily managed... 79


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BESEDILO: Klemen Žun FOTOGRAFIJE: Muzej novejše zgodovine Slovenije

LJUBLJANSKI KINO

PARADIŽ


Od do

začetnih

zlatih časov

kinematografov

Z razstavo »Kino Paradiž« smo v Muzeju novejše zgodovine Slovenije obudili utrinke iz zlatih časov delovanja kinematografov v Ljubljani, ko so blagajne zaznamovale venomer dolge vrste in številne razprodane predstave, ko so filme mnogih držav in raznolikih žanrov pospremile slavnostne premiere, ko so delovala filmska gledališča ter letni kinematografi in ko je bilo navdušenje nad podobami s filmskega platna mogoče doživljati tudi ob listanju mnogih filmskih revij, ob zbiranju sličic in razglednic igralcev. To je bil čas brez televizije, videa in računalnikov ter tudi čas, ko so bile žive podobe še gigantskih dimenzij, kinodvorana pa čarobni raj, ki je povezoval ljudi vseh starosti in družbenih slojev. 81


ljubljanski kino paradiž

Stalni kinematografi so se pred prvo svetovno vojno pojavili tudi v drugih večjih slovenskih krajih, kot so Maribor, Ptuj, Kranj, Postojna in Koper, po njihovi zaslugi pa se je film tako kmalu ustalil kot cenovno dostopno zabavišče za najširše ljudske množice.

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Letos mineva natanko 50 let, odkar je bilo v Sloveniji zabeleženih največ delujočih kinematografov. Najimenitnejši novinec izmed 265 aktivnih kinodvoran je takrat postal Kino Šiška, ki je daleč naokoli slovel po velikanskem platnu v širini kar 14,5 metra. V Ljubljani je leta 1962 na Gospodarskem razstavišču delovala tudi mega kinodvorana s kar 1.724 sedeži, v medijih pa so potekali ogorčeni boji za ustanovitev kinotečne dvorane (ta je dočakala prvo projekcijo leto kasneje). Izhajati je začela tudi še danes prisotna filmska revija Ekran, Iskrini konstruktorji pa so v Kranju razvijali prvi avtomatski kinoprojektor, ki je nato dočakal svojo premierno predstavo v elitnem Kinu Union. Tega leta so številni kino obiskovalci v večini dvoran slovenske prestolnice ugledali tudi filmske projekcije preko žarnic s plemenitim plinom ksenonom, ki so kot kakovostnejši in varčnejši vir osvetljevanja filmskega platna izrinile izgorevanje kino oglja in so v veljavi še danes.

Neponovljiva kinomanija, ki je v največji meri zaznamovala prav družbeno življenje osrednjih let preteklega stoletja, pa s koreninami oz. prvim javnim prikazovanjem filmov sega še v stoletje poprej. Če je v svetu zaznamovala ta dogodek projekcija bratov Lumière v Parizu ob koncu decembra leta 1895, je za prvo predstavo gibljivih slik pri nas poskrbel potujoči Edisonov kinetograf, ki je 24. oktobra leta 1896 ob projekciji s plinsko lučjo gostil enajst kratkih filmov v Pivnici Götz v Mariboru, v obdobju enega meseca pa nato še v salonu hotela Pri belem volu v Celju in v salonu hotela Pri Maliču v Ljubljani. V nadaljnjih letih so naše kraje obiskali tudi drugi veliki potujoči kinematografi in prirejali predstave v kavarnah, hotelih, cirkuških šotorih in drugod.

Izjemni kinematografski dosežki izpred petih desetletij so bili direkten – četudi že nekoliko zapoznel – odgovor na sam vrh najbolj intenzivnega

Prvi kinematografi s stalnim programom so leta 1905 postali v ZDA »kinematografi za groš« (nickelodeoni), pri nas pa gre te zasluge vsaj delno

kino doživljanja, ko smo v letih 1959 in 1960 beležili v Sloveniji rekordno število kino obiskovalcev – skoraj 17,2 milijona.


ljubljanski kino paradiž

pripisati uspešnemu ljubljanskemu fotografu Davorinu Rovšku, ki je pričel že aprila 1906 s stalnim filmskim programom v veliki dvorani hotela Union. Zaradi slabega obiska in visoke najemnine je Rovškovo »senzacionalno gledališče živih podob« prenehalo s projekcijami, podobno usodo pa je nato Rovšek doživel še v hotelu Ilirija in tudi v dvorani katoliškega doma. Prvi uspešen stalni kinematograf je tako postal Kino Edison v Ljubljani leta 1907, njegov lastnik, italijanski poslovnež Anton Deghenghi, pa je leto kasneje v Ljubljani na vrtu že omenjenega hotela Pri Maliču otvoril še prvi letni kinematograf The Elite Biograf. Opremo slednjega so kmalu nato prenesli v stavbo in tam ustanovili leta 1909 še stalni kinematograf Ideal, ki je bil približno na lokaciji še danes delujočega Kina Komuna. Stalni kinematografi so se pred prvo svetovno vojno pojavili tudi v drugih večjih slovenskih krajih, kot so Maribor, Ptuj, Kranj, Postojna in Koper, po njihovi zaslugi pa se je film tako kmalu ustalil kot cenovno dostopno zabavišče za najširše ljudske množice. Kasneje je v času svetovne gospodarske krize, ki je prizadela tudi Kraljevino Jugoslavijo, kino ponujal uteho in odmor od vsakdanjih skrbi, po letu 1930 pa so priljubljenost čarobnih slik okrepili še prvi zvočni filmi. Tega leta je namreč ljubljanski Kino Matica, ki je deloval v stavbi Slovenske filharmonije, kot prvi predstavil obiskovalcem zvok s filmom Pojoči norec (The Singing Fool), še v istem in prihajajočem letu pa so dobili zvočno opremo vsi večji ljubljanski in drugi slovenski kinematografi. Posebno mesto je v istem desetletju zavzemal tudi novonastali ljubljanski Kino Union. Bil je namreč edini slovenski kinematograf, ki je v tem času prikazoval tuje filme s slovenskimi podnapisi, zasluge za to pa ima Milan Kham, ki je priskrbel napravo za podnaslavljanje. V času druge svetovne vojne so se lastniki kinematografov prilagajali razmeram okupacije, zato sta v repertoarju prednjačili predvsem italijanska in nemška filmska produkcija, prva leta po osvoboditvi pa sovjetska. Politične razmere so takrat narekovale tudi podržavljanje in naglo širjenje kinematografov, število le teh pa se je v slabih desetih letih po drugi svetovni vojni potrojilo tako v Ljubljani kot tudi Sloveniji. Podobna ugotovitev velja tudi za število obiskovalcev, veliko zaslug pri eksplozivni kinofikaciji pa je imelo predvsem kranjsko podjetje Iskra, ki je z domačimi kinoprojektorji in pripadajočimi akustičnimi napravami oskrbovalo kinematografe širom Jugoslavije. Prvi takšen projektor so montirali decembra leta 1948 v kabini ljubljanskega Kina Kodeljevo (kasnejši Kino Triglav), Ljubljana pa se je v nekdanji državi ponašala tudi s prvim povojnim letnim kinom (Kino Tivoli), leta 1955 pa tudi s prvimi projekcijami filmov še danes standardnih formatov: widescreen v Kinu Union in cinemascope v Kinu Vič. V kinodvorani Doma Maksa Perca je v 50. letih deloval prvi jugoslovanski mladinski kino, naziv edinega otroškega kina v državi pa je pozneje pripadel Kinu Mojca. Veliko zaslug za številne kinematografske dosežke je imelo pri tem »Kinematografsko podjetje Ljubljana« (pozneje »Ljubljanski kinematografi«), ki je upravljalo z večino bolje obiskanih kinodvoran, kot so bili Kino Komuna, Sloga, Vič, Šiška in predvsem Kino Union, ki je v 60. letih kot edini slovenski kino letno privabil preko milijon navdušencev. Zlatim časom pestre 116-letne zgodovine domače reproduktivne kinematografije pa usoda ni namenila daljšega življenja. Že v drugi polovici 50. let so tudi slovenski kinematografi občutili udarec televizije. Udobju domačega kavča se je v 80. letih pridružil še video z možnostjo izbire filmskih vsebin, v zadnjem desetletju pa ekskluzivnost kina najhuje ogroža internet. Kinematografi v Ljubljani in tudi širom Slovenije so se, da bi preživeli, v novem tisočletju preselili v velikanske komplekse več dvoran z najsodobnejšo projekcijsko tehniko, zgodba nekdanjih kinematografov, ki so desetletja na svojevrsten način navduševali in osrečevali milijone tako preprostih kot tudi zahtevnejših ljubiteljev filma, pa ostaja zgodba o nekdanjem kino paradižu. 83


This year marks exactly 50 years since Slovenia recorded the peak number of cinemas in operation. Kino Šiška became the finest newcomer among the 265 active cinemas at the time, enjoying a wide-reaching reputation for its huge 14.5 metre screen. At the Ljubljana Exhibition and Convention Centre in 1962, there was also a “mega cinema” with as many as 1,724 seats, while the media saw a bitter struggle in an attempt to establish a Cinémathèque (which began showing its first film projections the following year). The still-existing film magazine Ekran appeared for the first time and Iskra’s constructors in Kranj were developing the first automatic film projector, which saw its premier show in the elite Kino Union cinema. That year, the many cinemagoers in the majority of the cinemas in the Slovenian capital saw film projections that were made using lamps containing xenon. This noble gas was a higher quality and more efficient source of lighting for film screens that replaced charcoal and is still in use today. The exceptional cinematic achievements from five decades ago were a direct – albeit somewhat late – response to the peak of the cinema’s popularity, with Slovenia seeing a record number of cinemagoers in 1959 and 1960 – nearly 17.2 million. The unrepeatable “cinema mania” that fundamentally marked the social life of the 1950s has roots that extend back to the previous century, to the first public film showings. If this event was marked in the world by the Lumière brothers’ projection in Paris at the end of December 1895, the first moving picture show in our country was done using Edison’s travelling Kinetograph, which used a gas lamp to show eleven short films in Maribor’s Götz Pub on 24 October 1896, followed by projections in the salon of the Pri belem volu hotel in Celje and the Pri Maliču hotel in Ljubljana over the following month. In the years that followed, our lands were visited by other great travelling Kinetographs, which organised shows in cafés, hotels, circus tents and elsewhere.

LJUBLJANA’S CINEMA PARADISE From the Beginnings to the Golden Era of Cinema TEXT: Klemen Žun PHOTOGRAPHY: National Museum of Contemporary History

With the Kino Paradiž (Cinema Paradise) exhibition, the Slovenian National Museum of Contemporary History is bringing back moments from the golden era of the cinemas operating in Ljubljana, when box offices were marked by constant long queues, numerous sold-out shows, when there were gala premieres to accompany films from many countries and of various genres, when film theatres and outdoor cinemas still existed and when it was possible to relive the excitement of the images from the film screen by browsing through the many film magazines, collecting pictures and postcards of actors. This was a time when there were no TV sets, video or computers, a time when the living pictures were still gigantic in proportions and the cinema was a magical paradise that linked people of all ages and social classes. 84

Nickelodeons, the first cinemas to feature a permanent programme, appeared in the US in 1905. In our lands this can, at least in part, be credited to the successful Ljubljana-based photographer Davorin Rovšek, who launched a permanent film programme in the grand hall of the Union Hotel in April 1906. Due to a lack of customers and high rents, Rovšek’s “sensational theatre of living images” was forced to shut down, a fate it shared with the ones in the Ilirija Hotel and in the hall of a Catholic home. The first successful permanent cinema appeared in Ljubljana – Kino Edison in 1907. Its owner, the Italian businessman Anton Deghenghi, opened the first outdoor cinema a year later in Ljubljana, called The Elite Biograf, in the garden of the above-mentioned Pri Maliču hotel. The equipment of the outdoor cinema was soon moved inside the building, creating a permanent cinema called Ideal in 1909, which operated in approximately the same location as today’s still-operational Kino Komuna. Before the First World War, permanent cinemas began springing up in other larger Slovenian towns such as Maribor, Ptuj, Kranj, Postojna and Koper, and it is thanks to them that film became considered affordable entertainment for the broadest masses so quickly. Later on, during the global economic crisis that also affected the Kingdom of Yugoslavia, the cinema offered consolation and a break from the daily worries, and after 1930 the popularity of the magic pictures was solidified by the first sound films. It was this same year that Ljubljana’s Kino Matica, operating in the Slovenian Philharmonic Orchestra building, became the first to show its visitors a sound film, namely The Singing Fool. All the larger cinemas in Ljubljana and Slovenia received sound equipment within the same year or in the years that followed. In that decade, the newly-built Kino Union in Ljubljana held a very special title: it was the only Slovenian cinema at the time to show foreign films with Slovenian subtitles, thanks to Milan Kham who provided a device for subtitling.


Ljubljana's cinema paradise

During the Second World War, cinema owners adapted to the fact that the country was occupied, which is why the film repertoire mostly featured Italian and German film production, followed by Soviet films in the years immediately after the liberation. The political situation at the time dictated nationalisation and the rapid spread of cinemas, which resulted in their numbers tripling in Ljubljana and Slovenia a mere ten years after the Second World War. A similar finding applies to the number of visitors; a majority of the credit for the explosive “cinematisation” goes to the Kranj-based company Iskra, who supplied cinemas across Yugoslavia with its own film projectors and corresponding sound devices. The first of these projectors was installed in the cabin of Ljubljana’s Kino Kodeljevo (the later Kino Triglav) in December 1948. Ljubljana was the first place in Yugoslavia to feature an outdoor cinema (Kino Tivoli) after the war and in 1955 the first to offer film projections in formats that are still standard: widescreen in Kino Union and cinemascope in Kino Vič. The first Yugoslavian youth cinema was housed in the Dom Maksa Perca building in the 1950s, but the title of the only children’s cinema in the country later went to Kino Mojca. Much of the credit for the many cinematographic achievements goes to the company Kinematografsko podjetje Ljubljana (later Ljubljanski kinematografi), who managed most of the more popular cinemas such as Kino Komuna, Sloga, Vič, Šiška and most of all Kino Union, which was the only Slovenian cinema to attract over a million fans on a yearly basis in the 1960s. However, fate did not decree a longer life for the golden times of the rich 116-year history of Slovenian cinematography. As early as the second half of the 1950s, the Slovenian cinemas were beginning to feel the impact of television. In the 1980s, the comfort of the home couch was joined by video with a choice of film content, while the Internet has become the biggest threat to the exclusivity of the cinema in the last decade. In order to survive in the new millennium, cinemas in Ljubljana and throughout Slovenia moved into huge multiplexes featuring the most advanced projection technology, while the story of past cinemas that thrilled and excited millions of film lovers in their own way for decades – both those with simpler tastes and those more demanding – remains the story of a bygone cinema paradise.

Before the First World War, permanent cinemas began springing up in other larger Slovenian towns such as Maribor, Ptuj, Kranj, Postojna and Koper, and it is thanks to them that film became considered affordable entertainment for the broadest masses so quickly. 85


086

EGIPT BESEDILO: GORAZD DOMINKO FOTOGRAFIJA: ANJA ČOP

Vsako leto se znova in znova rojeva želja po obisku Egipta in prav zanimivo, obisk nikoli ne razočara. Najverjetneje tudi zato, ker so stkane prijateljske vezi nadomestile hojo za vodnikovo »marelo« in so njeni prepoznavni znaki –piramide, ostanki templejev in z zgodovino prežet pesek – le še kulisa ob aromatičnem karkadeju in vodni pipi. Da je Egipt prizorišče bogatih, zapletenih in globokomoralnih zgodb, ki sebi in ljudem, s katerimi živi, zastavlja težka vprašanja in nalaga zahtevne naloge, bo najlažje prebrati v vrsticah, ki sledijo; pa tudi, da je lahko ljubezen do Egipta tako trdna kot ob srečnem koncu protagonistov v trivialnih žepnih romanih Amande Quick.

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Adria Airways v sodelovanju s turističnima agencijama Kompas in Palmo leti v Egipt enkrat tedensko.


87


egipt

Zaradi Egipta ob otroštvo Slovenski stiki z Egiptom so v devetnajstem in dvajsetem stoletju dodobra spremenili ali oklestili slovenske družine, katerih matere so odhajale v Aleksandrijo in Kairo, misleč, da se bodo, ko bo denarja dovolj, vrnile. Pred časom predvajani dokumentarec slovenskega scenarista in režiserja Metoda Pevca je ob pretresljivih pričevanjih nesrečnih potomcev pokazal, da se iz obljubljene dežele največkrat ni bilo več želje ali priložnosti vrniti, in tako so pogosto odrasli kot sirote, ki se danes ob besedi Egipt raje obrnejo vstran. In kdo bi jim zameril?! Čeprav je Slovencem Egipt geografsko blizu, je njegova podoba dolgo temeljila na strahu pred neznanim, piše profesor Zmago Šmitek v članku »Egipt – dežela slovenske fascinacije«. Tudi zaradi prepričanja o magičnih sposobnostih tamkajšnjih ljudi. In včasih res znajo ubiti s pogledom … 88


egipt

Pravilo desne (-ga) Ko se človek vozi v dotrajanem vagonu od severa proti jugu skozi egipčansko podeželje, si ni težko predstavljati, da je v zgodbi Agathe Christie. Železnice tečejo skozi toliko strani njenih knjig in ni težko ugotoviti, od kod navdih za bridke odhode, nepričakovana srečanja, žalostna spoznanja, vznemirljiva odkritja in srečne konce. Da, Egipt je prizorišča bogatih, zapletenih in globokomoralnih zgodb, ki sebi in ljudem, s katerimi živi, zastavlja težka vprašanja in nalaga zahtevne naloge. Ne gre soditi vseh po istem kopitu in zagotovo je odstotek tistih, ki želijo z bledičnimi in tujegovorečimi kljub zbijanju cen skleniti nepošten posel, relativno visok, a nekaj je tudi takih, ki si želijo le novic iz belega sveta in spoštljiv odnos. Vljudno rokovanje, močan stisk roke in odločen, direkten pogled v oči. Zaleže. In ne, to niso besede učitelja tamkajšnjega bontona, le dejstvo, s katerim je moč stkati trdno prijateljstvo. Seveda mora obstajati želja, navdušenje nad njihovim načinom življenja, tudi čas je pri tej enačbi pomemben dejavnik. In čeravno se zdi, da ne bomo nikoli prišli do njenega rezultata, saj se je morda zalomilo – če ne drugje, pri neverbalni komunikaciji –, zmota ni bila nikoli večja. Drži, darila je pametno sprejemati ali podarjati z desno roko, podplate zakriti in nog ne prekrižati, a odpuščanje je ena temeljnih vrlin, ki jih uči islam.

Egipt = souk Potepanje po arabskih deželah ne bi smelo miniti brez obiska vsaj enega souka – tržnice, kjer se od vsakdanjika utrujene oči kljub številnim dražljajem živih barv spočijejo in spoznajo, kaj vse smo v bitki s časom izgubili. Denimo, ljubezen in spoštovanje ročnega dela in spretnosti, ki v Egiptu že stoletja prehajajo iz roda v rod. Bi znali zgraditi piramido iz žafrana, pekoče paprike ali v severnoafriški kuhinji nepogrešljive harise, ostre rdeče začimbe, ki jo kot dodatek juhi in prilogo kuskusu pogosto uporabljajo? Mislite, da bi bili spretnejši pri oblikovanju keramike, četudi brez vretena, zaupajoč le izrednemu občutku rok in nog? Rokodelci dosegajo v nekaterih dejavnostih umetniško raven, vendar ta počasi, a vztrajno

izgublja vrednost. Da je trgovina v Egiptu prevzela prednost v tekmi z obrtniki, ni nobena skrivnost. Rokodelci ene bolj naseljenih držav v Afriki so klonili pred dobrinami z vzhoda, saj je tamkajšnja številčnejša delovna sila cenejša in predvsem učinkovitejša. A zahvaljujoč Nilu ima Egipt vseeno nekaj avtentičnih rokodelcev, denimo izdelovalce papirusa iz rastline enakega imena, ki uspeva na močvirnatih tleh najdaljše reke na svetu. Enake dele narezanega polagajo drugega poleg drugega. Nato jih obtežijo, da iz njih izteka lepljiva tekočina. Ko se posuši, je čas za motive starega Egipta. In tu je še alabaster; danes drugačen prosojni mineral kot v časih, ko so vanj shranjevali faraonove posmrtne ostanke, a še vedno ličen. Lepo ga je imeti, ujetega v namizni lučki na nočni omarici, in vedeti, da je vsaj del Egipta samo tvoj.

Podvodni safari Če kje, potem arabske pomladi prav gotovo ni (bilo) čutiti pod morsko gladino Sharm El Sheikha, Dahaba, Hurgade in Mars Alama. Rdeče morje je široko, globoko, neskončno, podobno ljubeči materi. Vanj se je najlepše potopiti brez misli, ki bi utegnile zmotiti občutek neskončnosti in povezanosti z bogatim morskim življem in najlepše ohranjenimi koralnimi grebeni, največkrat dotikajoč se pustih in neporaščenih sanjskih plaž. Tako ni potrebno daleč in globoko, da bi denimo družno plavali proti toku z želvo, se dotaknili morske krave ali iz varnega zavetja koral, razgrnjenih v veliko raznobarvno pahljačo, opazovali veličastnega kitovca ali jato sivih grebenskih morskih psov, pred katerimi običajno ni potrebno »bežati«, saj je prav to tisto, kar ob naključnih srečanjih s potapljači počno oni. 89


EgYpt

EGYPT TEXT: gORAZD DOMINKO PHOTOGRAPHY: ANJA ČOP

The desire to visit Egypt again comes over me every single year, but the most interesting thing is that the trip never lets me down. This is probably because guided tours have been replaced by friends that I have made there, and the country's most recognisable features – pyramids, temple ruins and even the sand that’s imbued with history – are now just a backdrop to the richly aromatic karkade and hookah. Egypt is the setting of rich, complex and deeply moral stories, posing difficult questions and giving demanding tasks to itself and its people – that much should be clear from the rest of this article. However, it should also become clear that a person's love for Egypt can be as undying as that of the protagonists at the happy end of an Amanda Quick romance paperback. 90

Losing a childhood to egypt The connection that Slovenia had with Egypt in the 19th and 20th century had a considerable and deeply felt effect on the Slovenian families whose mothers set out for Alexandria or Cairo believing that they would be able to return home once they earned enough money working as nannies. A recently screened documentary, written and directed by Metod Pevec, used stories told by their unfortunate descendants to show that these women usually ended up with no desire or opportunity to leave the promised land. Their children grew up as orphans who become upset at the mere mention of Egypt. And who could blame them? Even though Slovenia is situated relatively close to Egypt, its perception among Slovenians was long based on the fear of the unknown, writes Prof. Zmago Šmitek in his article entitled "Egypt – the Land of Slovenian Fascination". One of the reasons for this fear was the belief that Egyptians held magical powers. It is true that sometimes their looks can kill...

partings, unexpected meetings, sad realisations, exciting discoveries and happy endings. Yes, Egypt is the setting of rich, complex and deeply moral stories, posing difficult questions and giving demanding tasks to itself and its people. But you can't judge everyone by the same standard; it’s true that the percentage of locals intent on double-crossing white tourists despite the foreigners' attempts at haggling is relatively high, but you will also find people who are looking for nothing more than news from the Western world and a respectful attitude. A polite greeting, firm handshake and determined, direct eye contact – that’s all it takes. Advice from a local teacher of etiquette? No, just a fact that can lead to the beginning of a firm friendship. Obviously there has to be a desire for it, a love for the Egyptian way of life and, last but not least, this equation also takes time. But even though you might feel like you will never see the result – maybe because you made a mistake in non-verbal communication if nothing else – you have never been more wrong. It is true that you are supposed to give and accept gifts with your right hand, keep the soles of your feet hidden and never cross your legs, but forgiveness is also one of the basic virtues taught by Islam.

The rule of right Travelling in an old and battered railway carriage from the north to the south of the country across the Egyptian countryside, it is easy to imagine yourself as a character in an Agatha Christie novel. Trains feature heavily in her books, and it is easy to see where she found the inspiration for the sorrowful

Egypt=souk No trip through Arab countries is complete without a visit to at least one souk – an open-air market where your eyes, tired of the daily routine, can rest on the brightly coloured surroundings and you suddenly realise how many things we have lost in our endless race against time. Things such as love and


egypt

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Adria Airways in cooperation with travel agencies Kompas and Palma flies to Egypt once a week.

respect for craftsmanship and handicrafts; in Egypt, they have been passed from generation to generation for centuries. Do you know how to build a pyramid from saffron, chilli peppers or harissa? The latter, a hot red spice often added to soups and couscous, is indispensable in North African cuisine. Do you think you could do better than Egyptian artisans when it comes to shaping ceramics without a wheel, using nothing but your hands and feet and trusting your instinct? Some of these products come close to being art, but even so, craftsmanship is beginning to lose value and it is no secret that it has been beaten out by commerce. The artisans in Egypt, one of Africa's most populous countries, have been defeated by goods coming in from the East, where workers are more numerous, cheaper and, crucially, more efficient. But thanks to the Nile, Egypt has managed

to retain some authentic artisans such as those producing papyrus from the eponymous plant that grows in the wetlands of the world's longest river. Papyrus plants are cut into equal pieces and placed alongside each other. They are weighted down until the sticky liquid has drained out. Once the plants are dry, it is time to decorate them with ancient Egyptian elements. And then there is the alabaster, a translucent mineral, now no longer used for storing the earthly remains of pharaohs but still beautiful to look at. It is nice to keep it on your bedside table, trapped inside a small lamp, and feel that there is a part of Egypt that belongs only to you. Underwater safari If there is one place that was not touched by the Arab Spring, it is below the surface of the sea at

Sharm El Sheikh, Dahab, Hurghada and Marsa Alam. The Red Sea is wide, deep and endless, reminiscent of the love of a mother. Before you dive in, the best thing to do is clear your mind of any thoughts that could interrupt the sense of endlessness and deep connection to the diverse marine life. The Red Sea is also where you can find the best preserved coral reefs, typically adjacent to deserted, bare beaches. You won't have to swim far or deep before you find yourself swimming against the current with a sea turtle by your side, touching a manatee or hiding safely behind the colourful fan of a coral reef to watch a majestic whale or a school of grey reef sharks. There is no need to run from them – that is what the sharks themselves tend to do if they happen to encounter a scuba diver. 91


092

PRIJETNA

ARHITEKTURA

ZA JESEN ŽIVLJENJA Domovi za starejše: trije primeri iz Slovenije


PRIJETNA ARHITEKTURA

Center starejših Trnovo

BESEDILO: NADA ŠERBELJ FOTOGRAFIJE: arhiv arhitekturni biro ravnikar potokar, miran kambič

GLOBALNI DEMOGRAFSKI KAZALCI NAPOVEDUJEJO, DA BO LETA 2050 V BOGATEJŠEM DELU SVETA VSAK TRETJI PREBIVALEC UPOKOJENEC, SKORAJ VSAK DESETI PREBIVALEC PA BO IMEL VEČ KOT 80 LET. TRENDOM STARANJA PREBIVALSTVA SMO SICER PRIČA ŽE NEKAJ ČASA, OMENJENE NAPOVEDI PA KAŽEJO, DA BODO V PRIHAJAJOČIH DESETLETJIH LE ŠE NARAŠČALI.

Tudi Slovenija se sooča s porastom staranja prebivalstva, ki je kot povsod drugod posledica daljšanja življenjske dobe in nižanja rodnosti. Ti demografski trendi vplivajo na različna področja družbe kot celote, med prvimi pa se pojavi vprašanje nastanitve in bivanjskih standardov v tretjem življenjskem obdobju. Potrebe po novih nastanitvenih kapacitetah skokovito naraščajo in kljub povečanemu številu novozgrajenih domov za starejše, ki smo mu v Sloveniji priča v zadnjem času, še vedno ne sledijo povpraševanju. Center starejših Trnovo v Ljubljani, Center starejših Hodoš in Dom upokojencev Idrija, ki so bili zgrajeni v zadnjih štirih letih, predstavljajo primer dobre prakse na tem področju v Sloveniji. Projekte so izdelali v arhitekturnem biroju Ravnikar Potokar, in sicer na osnovi

prvonagrajenih natečajnih elaboratov. Pogoji in izhodišča javnega natečaja, ki so bili postavljeni s strani Zbornice za arhitekturo in prostor Slovenije (ZAPS), so objekte programsko in tipološko opredelili, arhitekti pa so jih s premišljeno prostorsko zasnovo in dodano vrednostjo umestili med kvalitetne in prepoznavne primere novejše slovenske arhitekture. Prvi in največji med njimi je bil leta 2009 zgrajen Center starejših Trnovo v Ljubljani. V osnovi sestavljajo kompleks trije stavbni elementi: trakt varovanih stanovanj, dom za starejše in povezovalni element, kamor je umeščen skupni program, ki napaja oba objekta. Spremljajoči javni storitveni program v pritličnem delu objekta varovanih stanovanj se navezuje na mestni prostor in tako prispeva k integraciji centra starejših v okolje. 93


prijetna arhitektura

Center starejših Hodoš

Stavba je vpeta v preplet urbanega parka, na katerega se odpirajo sobe doma. Kljub optimalni izkoriščenosti in racionalni zasnovi je kompleks zelo razgiban in tako ustvarja niz ambientalnih sekvenc in dinamiko prostora, ki ponuja prijetno bivanjsko okolje. Stanovalci lahko tako uživajo v raznolikosti zunanjega prostora: v mestnem vrvežu ali pa v intimi, ki jo ponuja interni del parka. Na ometani fasadi objekta varovanih stanovanj se izmenjujeta peščena in oranžna barva. 94

Polni kubus z vertikalnimi odprtinami leži nad steklenim pritličjem, ki se nadaljuje v pritlični del celotnega kompleksa in kot transparenten ovoj poveže vse sklope kompleksa. Zelo atraktivni sta tudi vzhodna in zahodna fasada doma za starejše, ki sta v celoti zastekljeni, nanju pa so pripeti rdeči in oranžni okvirji. Tudi pri podobi leto kasneje zgrajenega Centra starejših Hodoš so arhitekti predvideli tople barve in močen volumen, ki je nameščen nad transparentnim podstavkom. Vendar na povsem drugačen način. Način, ki je lasten drugemu kontekstu in značaju prostora. V ruralnem okolju prekmurske vasi Hodoš je pri oblikovanju centra starejših vidna navezava na lokalno stavbno tradicijo. Na podolgovate parcele v Prekmurju so gospodarski objekti postavljeni vzporedno z daljšo stranico, medtem ko so stanovanjski deli hiš vzporedni s cesto, skupaj pa tvorijo notranje

dvorišče. Podobno tudi L oblika centra tvori interni atrij, ki se zlije z okoliško krajino. Z arhitekturnimi elementi lokalne kulturne dediščine, vnesenimi v sodobno oblikovanje, pridobijo stanovalci oboje: občutek domačnosti in vse ugodnosti, ki jih ponuja novogradnja. Program centra je od svojih začetkov deloma spremenil namembnost; njegova arhitekturna zasnova namreč dopušča precejšnjo mero fleksibilnosti pri uporabi prostora. Razgibani stavbni volumni so tako kot v primeru Centra starejših Trnovo tudi pri projektiranju Doma upokojencev Idrija zmehčali podobo objektov, saj bi sicer lahko učinkovali dokaj togo. S tem so arhitekti zadostili programskim zahtevam, hkrati pa zagotovili, da objekti ne izstopajo v okolju in da niso tipološko zaznamovani.


PRIJETNA ARHITEKTURA

Dom upokojencev Idrija

»Svet trenutno šteje 6,9 milijard ljudi, od tega je skoraj 11 odstotkov prebivalstva starejšega od 60 let. Do leta 2050, ko se bo svetovno prebivalstvo povzpelo na 9 milijard, pa naj bi se ta delež povečal na 22 odstotkov.« »Kvaliteta bivanja je vrednota, ki je še zlasti iskana in cenjena v tretjem življenjskem obdobju, saj bistveno vpliva na splošno počutje posameznika.« Predvsem pa se je tako formiralo bogatejše ambientalno okolje, ki ugodno vpliva na počutje stanovalcev. Kljub temu, da je bil objekt zasnovan v dveh fazah, od katerih se zadnja ravnokar zaključuje, je celoten objekt načrtovan v enotnem arhitekturnem jeziku. Dom upokojencev Idrija sestavljata dva med seboj pravokotna objekta izrazito podolgovate zasnove, med katerima se je oblikoval skupni zunanji prostor poljavnega in internega značaja, ki prehaja v javni prostor pred objektom. Poti so zelo raznolike, sprehajalcem ponujajo doživljajske sekvence in tako budijo njihovo zanimanje za okolico. Na daljših fasadah so vstavljeni okvirji, ki močno razgibajo podobo objekta, hkrati pa predstavljajo nekdanje hiše stanovalcev doma, ki so sedaj vstavljene pod skupno streho. Daljši fasadi sta tudi dva kontrastna barvna pola, od katerih je jugovzhodna fasada izvedena v svetlejših,

severozahodna pa v temnejših tonih. Ena poglavitnejših odlik, ki je skupna vsem trem domovom, je izredno prijetno bivalno okolje, ki ustvarja dobro počutje. Sobe so svetle in orientirane proti okoliškim vedutam. Vizualna povezava z okoljem je namreč psihološki element, ki je v tem primeru še posebej pomemben. Notranji ambienti učinkujejo zračno, odprto, prostori so izvedeni v svetlih tonih, predvsem pa je zagotovljena tudi dobra berljivost prostora, kar je bistveno za organizacijo starejših ljudi v prostoru. Z arhitekturnimi rešitvami in implementacijo bogatega programa pa je poleg materialnega udobja in zdravstvene nege zagotovljeno tudi vključevanje v socialno mrežo in skrb za ohranjanje psihofizične vitalnosti. Povezanost omenjenih domov z okoljem, v katerem se nahajajo, pa ugodno vpliva na varovance, ki

so tako vključeni v družbeno dogajanje. Lahko rečemo, da so ti trije domovi zgleden primer, kako se je mogoče z arhitekturnim oblikovanjem, primernimi vsebinami in lokacijo izogniti segregaciji in izoliranosti, ki sta pogosto prisotni pri institucionalnem varstvu starejših ljudi. Preprosto, a osnovno vodilo pri vseh omenjenih projektih pa je bilo z arhitekturnimi intervencijami ustvariti optimalne bivanjske pogoje in tako zagotoviti visoko kakovost bivanja stanovalcem v njihovi jeseni življenja. 95


PLEASANT ARCHITECTURE

Trnovo Centre for the Elderly

Pleasant architecture for the autumn of life Homes for the elderly: three cases from Slovenia TEXT: NADA ŠERBELJ PHOTOGRAPHY: ARCHIVE ravnikar potokar ARCHITECTURAL OFFICE, Miran kambič

GLOBAL DEMOGRAPHIC INDICATORS PREDICT THAT BY 2050, ONE IN THREE PEOPLE IN THE RICHEST PARTS OF THE WORLD WILL BE PENSIONERS AND ALMOST ONE IN TEN PEOPLE WILL BE AGED 80 OR MORE. THE AGEING POPULATION TREND HAS BEEN WITH US FOR SOME TIME NOW AND THE ABOVE FORECASTS INDICATE THAT THEY WILL ONLY CONTINUE TO GROW IN THE COMING DECADES. Slovenia is also facing an increasingly ageing population, which, much like everywhere else, is the result of a longer life expectancy and declining birth rates. These demographic trends impact on various areas of the society as a whole, with one of the first issues to arise being the question of accommodation and living standards in the golden years. The needs for new accommodation capacities are rising rapidly and still do not meet demand despite Slovenia’s recent increase in the number of newly built homes for the elderly. Built in the last four years, the Trnovo Centre for the Elderly in Ljubljana, the Hodoš Centre for the Elderly and the Idrija Retirement Home represent Slovenia’s good practice cases in this area. The projects were designed by the 96

Ravnikar Potokar architectural office on the basis of competition-winning studies. The terms and starting points of the open competition set by the Chamber of Architecture and Spatial Planning of Slovenia (ZAPS) provided the programme and typological definition of the facilities, while the architects were responsible for placing them among high-quality and distinctive examples of modern Slovenian architecture through careful spatial design and added value. The first and biggest among them was Ljubljana’s Trnovo Centre for the Elderly built in 2009. The complex basically consists of three structural elements: a wing of assisted living residences, an elderly home and a connecting element containing a joint programme that supports both buildings. The accompanying public service programme on the ground floor of the assisted living residences building is linked to the urban space, contributing to the integration of the Centre for the Elderly in the environment. With rooms overlooking the park, the building is woven into the fabric of the urban park. Despite its optimal utilisation and rational design, the building complex is highly diverse, creating a set of ambient sequences and a spatial dynamic that offers a pleasant living environment. This allows the residents


PLEASANT ARCHITECTURE

to enjoy the diversity of the outside areas: in the hustle and bustle of the city or in the intimacy in the heart of the park. The plastered facade of the assisted living residences building features an interplay of sandy and orange colours. The full cube with vertical openings is located above the glazed ground floor, which extends to the ground floor of the entire complex, linking together all sections of the complex like a transparent cover. The fully glazed east and west facades of the elderly home are also very attractive with their red and orange frames. For the appearance of the Hodoš Centre for the Elderly, which was built the following year, the architects also envisaged warm colours and a strong volume located above the building’s transparent base – but with a completely new twist that corresponds to the different context and character of the area. Set in the rural environment of the Prekmurje village Hodoš, the design of the Centre for the Elderly reflects the local building tradition. On the oblong plots of Prekmurje, commercial premises are built parallel to the long side while the houses' residential parts are parallel to the road, together forming an inner courtyard. Similarly, the L shape of the Centre forms an internal atrium that blends in with the surrounding landscape. Incorporating architectural elements of the local cultural heritage in a modern design gives the residents two things: a feeling of familiarity with all the benefits of a newly constructed building. Since its inception, the Centre’s programme has slightly changed its purpose as its architectural design allows a great deal of flexibility in the use of space. As in the case of the Trnovo Centre for the Elderly, the project design of the Idrija Retirement Home included diverse structural volumes to soften the appearance of the buildings that could otherwise appear rather stiff. In this way, the architects were able to meet the programme requirements while ensuring that the facility does not seem out of place in its environment and is not typologically marked. But most of all, this helped to form a richer ambient environment that has a positive effect on the residents’ wellbeing. Even though the facility was designed in two stages, with the last presently nearing completion, the entire facility was designed using a single architectural language. The Idrija Retirement Home comprises two mutually perpendicular facilities of an extremely oblong design with a central common outdoor area of a semi-public and internal nature, which passes into the public space outside the facility. The walkways are highly diverse, offering walkers adventurous sequences and thus awakening their interest in the surrounding area. The longer facades feature frames that make the facility’s appearance much more dynamic while serving as a reminder of the residents’ former homes, which are now included under a common roof. The longer facades also serve as contrasting colour opposites, with the southeast facade in lighter and the northwest facade in darker tones. One of the main features shared by all three homes is the extremely pleasant living environment and the wellbeing it creates. The rooms are bright and overlook the surrounding vistas. The visual connection to the environment is in this case a particularly important psychological element. The internal ambience gives off a sense of airiness and openness, the spaces are designed using light tones, but most of all, the spaces are easily navigable, which is essential for the spatial orientation of the elderly. Besides material comfort and health care, the architectural solutions and the implementation of a rich programme are also a guarantee for inclusion in the social network and care for preserving physical and mental vitality. The connection these homes share with their respective environments has a positive influence on their residents, who are thus also involved in social activities. It could be said that they are an exemplar of how architectural design, coupled with suitable content and location, can be used to avoid the segregation and isolation that are often associated with institutionalised care for the elderly. In all of the above projects, the simple and basic guideline was to create optimum living conditions through architecture, thus ensuring that residents lead high-quality lives in the autumn of their life.

Hodoš Centre for the Elderly

Idrija Retirement Home

“There are now 6.9 billion people in the world, with nearly 11 per cent aged over 60. By 2050, when the world population will reach 9 billion, this percentage will increase to 22 per cent." “Quality of life is a value that is particularly sought after and appreciated in the golden years as it significantly affects the overall health of the individual.” 97


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BESEDILO IN fotografije: JOŽE BALAS

Oaza Dunhuang

MED DVEMA SVETOVOMA

Nekoč pomembna trgovska postojanka na Svilni poti, še pred tem najzahodnejša vojaška garnizija, ki je Kitajsko ščitila pred vdori barbarskih plemen z Zahoda. Danes pa se v to oazo sredi ničesar, ki leži nekje na tromeji provinc Gansu, Qinghai in Xinjiang, zatekajo predvsem popotniki in turisti, ki bežijo pred kaosom kitajskih velemest, tisti, ki jih privlačijo širna puščavska prostranstva, prijazni ljudje in bogata kulturna dediščina.


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Ja, marsikdaj in marsikje, sploh če potuješ po Kitajski, se predstava o kraju, ki si jo popotnik ustvari na podlagi literarnih, popotniških ali drugih zapisov, močno razlikuje od realnosti, ki jo ponavadi ves presenečen doživi na kraju samem. Tako je tudi v primeru Dunhuanga, mesta oziroma oaze, izgubljene sredi ničesar. Oaze na koncu ene in tako rekoč na začetku druge puščave. Ali pa poti, kakor hočete. Oaze nekje vmes. Oaze, ki je stoletja pozdravljala popotniške karavane in se od njih tudi poslavljala. Tisti, ki so prihajali z Zahoda, so prišli v Dunhuang utrujeni, če že ne uničeni, vsekakor pa veseli, saj je bil za njimi najtežji del poti skozi zahodni Turkmenistan oziroma Xinjiang. Skozi deželo težko prehodnih gorskih prostranstev in negostoljubnih puščav, med katerimi je Takla makan na najslabšem glasu. Tisti pa, ki so v Dunhuang prihajali z Vzhoda, so vedeli, da se njihovo pravo popotovanje šele začenja. Pot do Donhuanga z Vzhoda je resda dolga in naporna, vendar ne tako nepredvidljiva in nevarna. Poteka po nekakšnem zelenem pasu pod gorovjem Qilian, s katerega se proti severu stekajo življenja polne reke in hudourniki, ki pa se kaj kmalu izgubijo v žarečem puščavskem pesku Gobija. Kljub temu pa je vode ravno dovolj, da se je življenjski ciklus prebivalcev ohranjal skozi dolga stoletja, tako da so lahko tako majhna mesta kot tudi manjše naselbine kadar koli sprejeli v svoje okrilje popotnike in karavane. Najsi so popotniki prihajali z Vzhoda ali Zahoda, vsi so bili v Dunhuangu sprejeti z odprtimi rokami. Prebivalci te oaze, mešanica Hanov, Huijev in Ujgurov, še danes veljajo za odprte in prijazne gostitelje, kar daje temu mestu poseben šarm. No, midva s sinom Vitom sva se pred Dunhuangom najprej ustavila v Jiayuguanu, zadnji trdnjavi velikega kitajskega zidu, ki se od tu naprej le še izgublja v širnih prostranstvih Gobija in Takla makana. Tu se je pravzaprav začela najina puščavska zgodba, polna kontrastov in nenavadnih pripetljajev, tu se nekako začne tudi zgodba o nevarni in nepredvidljivi poti onkraj velikega zidu. Jiayuguan namreč leži na najožjem, strateškem delu zahodnega odseka Hexi koridorja med pogorjema Qilian in Hei, zaradi česar ni bil le zadnja obrambna linija pred hordami z Zahoda, temveč tudi pomemben prehod za kopenske karavane na Svilni poti. V ta namen so leta 1372, v času dinastije Ming, na robu današnjega mesta sezidali eno najlepših in največjih vojaških trdnjav na Kitajskem, imenovano tudi »največja trdnjava na svetu«. No, danes pa to le na videz spokojno podeželsko mesto riše nove mejnike, saj se v njegovi bližini, v širnem puščavskem prostranstvu, skriva največji kitajski raketni izstrelitveni center, od koder so Kitajci poslali v vesolje svoje prve rakete in astronavte. O tem, da ima mesto velike ambicije, govorijo tudi obsežni novi stanovansjki kompleksi s

pravimi avenijami in vso potrebno infrastrukturo. Vsekakor bo Jiayuguan čez nekaj let kazal popolnoma drugo podobo, kot jo kaže danes, ko se le streljaj od centra mesta razprostira stara tržnica in kjer domačini še vedno prihajajo v bližnji lokal na ogled večernih poročil, saj v svoji skromnosti ne premorejo niti lastnega TV-ja. No, dokaj podobna slika je tudi v Donhuangu. Neustavljiv napredek, ki ga omogoča nezadržna rast kitajskega gospodarstva, je zavel tudi v tem odmaknjenem kraju sredi ničesar. V zadnjih letih so iz Liuyuana do Dunhuanga potegnili več kot 100 km železnice in posodobili več kot 150 km ceste ter mestu, v katerem se je nekoč ustavil tudi Marco Polo, nadeli novo betonsko preobleko. Tako v sami oazi težko najdemo ostanke tradicionalne arhitekture, na žalost tudi tržnica ne vzbuja kakšne posebne nostalgije po starih časih. Skratka, sama oaza kot taka razen dobre in raznovstne hrane in prijaznih ljudi ne nudi kaj dosti. Po drugi strani pa prav to pomeni zelo veliko in neprecenljivo, čeprav s pričakovano nostalgično podobo starodavne oaze ni bilo nič. Še najbolj je duh po starem zaznati v revni soseski na levem bregu reke Dang, kjer se nahajajo ostanki starega mestnega obzidja in pagoda belega konja, edini relikviji iz bogate zgodovine te oaze, žal pa se še ta preveč meša z vonjem človeških iztrebkov. Soseska je namreč brez vodovoda in kanalizacije, ob cesti so postavljena skupna

stranišča na štrbunk, o katerih ne bi zgubljal besed, otroci pa opravljajo potrebo kar na cesti. Popolnoma nasprotna slika novega jedra oaze na drugi strani reke, ki je na nek način brezosebna in prav nič nostalgična. Kljub temu pa se postanek v Dunhuangu še kako splača, saj njegova okolica nudi veliko naravnih in zgodovinsko-kulturnih užitkov. Najbolj so seveda znane jame Mogao, ki ležijo slabih 25 kilometrov jugovzhodno iz mesta na vzhodnem prepadnem pobočju hribovja Mingsha in veljajo za biser budistične umetnosti in zapuščine ne samo na Kitajskem.

In taka, stoletja zapuščena in v prostrani puščavi pozabljena, so tudi druga mesta, ki so pomenila zadnjo mejo med nevarnimi barbarskimi deželami na zahodni meji Kitajske. 101


Oaza Dunhuang

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Oaza Dunhuang

Jame tisočerih bud, kakor jim tudi pravijo in ki so pravzaprav majhni templji, so začeli izklesavati okrog leta 366. Celoten kompleks templjev, ki so sprva služili le za meditiranje in bogoslužje, se razprostira v dolžini 1600 metrov. Danes je ohranjenih samo še 492 jam oziroma templjev, a kljub temu predstavljajo neprecenljivo bogastvo: več kot 45.000 m² stenskih slikarij, 3400 ploskih tridimenzionalnih reliefov in zidnih kipov, velikih od nekaj centimetrov pa vse do 33 metrov, več tisoč stebrov z lotosovimi motivi, v eni od zapečatenih jam so našli več kot 50.000 svetih spisov, portretov, knjig ... Skratka, videti je kar nekaj, čeprav je za turiste odprt le delček te bogate zapuščine, kjer pa je žal strogo prepovedano fotografiranje. No, če že ni prepovedano fotografiranje, je prepovedano gibanje, kot je na primer v oazi Polmesečnega izvira (Yueyaguan), ki leži med več kot 100 metrov visokimi sipinami šest kilometrov južno od Dunhuanga. Tam se je v želji po čim boljšem posnetku iz neznanega razloga pač prepovedano povzpeti na določeno sipino, s katere se odpira najboljši razgled na starodavni tempelj in majhno jezerce v obliki polmeseca, ki pa počasi izginja. Ja, to je definitivno najbolj fotogenična lokacija, ki privablja na tisoče turistov v ta konec, dramatičnost celotni pokrajini pa dajejo prav visoke sipine puščavskega peska, ki jim domačini pravijo tudi »mrmrajoči pesek«. Po legendi je namreč peščeni vihar pod seboj pokopal celoten vojaški tabor; mrmranje sipin, ki jih je veter zaradi upiranja preoblikoval v jadrom podobne obline, pa naj bi bili pravzaprav glasovi in kriki v viharju izgubljenih vojakov. Nenavadno pa je tuljenje vetra tudi v geološkem nacionalnem parku Yadan, ki leži dobrih 300 km severovzhodno od Dunhuanga na meji provinc Gansu in Xinjiang. Tu je narava iz peska in usedlin skrilavca pred cca 700.000 leti izoblikovala nenavadno skalno pokrajino, ki se ponoči, ko močni vetrovi pometajo puščavo in ustvarjajo srhljive zvoke, podobne zverskim, spremeni v »mesto demonov«. In taka, stoletja zapuščena in v prostrani puščavi pozabljena, so tudi druga mesta, ki so pomenila zadnjo mejo med nevarnimi barbarskimi deželami na zahodni meji Kitajske. Tu, v tej negostoljubni puščavi ležijo ostanki vojaških postojank in mest, ki so bila zgrajena stoletja pred mogočno trdnjavo Jiayuguan – Dunhuang na primer že leta 104 pred našim štetjem  –, mest, ki so doživljala svoj razcvet in nato žalostno izginila v pesku, na kar nas opozarjajo le še nemi ostanki zidov. Mesto Yumenguan ali Žadova vrata, za katero je veliki poet Wang Zhihuan (688–742) zapisal, da je tako oddaljeno od cesarstva, da še spomladna sapica ne more prodreti do njega, so postavili že leta 131 pred našim štetjem in je v času dinastije Han pomenilo glavna vrata v osrednjo Azijo in glavni trg za žad iz vseh koncev Xinjianga. Tu se že drugo tisočletje upira puščavskemu pesku tudi najstarejši del kitajskega zidu, po načinu izgradnje precej drugačnem kot tisti z razglednic. Ja, pod tem puščavskim peskom se poleg najsodobnejših vesoljskih programov in raket najbrž skriva še veliko zanimivih zgodb. Pa naj bodo to zgodbe o širjenju meja kitajskega cesartsva na Zahod, saj arheologi vedno znova odkrivajo nove in nove kilometre »kitajskega zidu«, ki se zažira že globoko v puščavo Takla makan. Zgodbe o umetnosti ali pa religiji, kajti tu skozi sta »potovala« tako budizem kot islam in pustila globoke korenine na celotnem območju zahodne Kitajske. Ne nazadnje samo zgodbe navadnih trgovcev in popotnikov ali pa ljudi, ki so tisočletja uspeli kljubovati težkemu življenju v tem krutem puščavskem okolju, njihove sledi pa je prekril puščavski pesek. Vsekakor zgodbe, ki bodo v te konce še stoletja privabljale radovedne popotnike. Donhuang še vedno živi na stari slavi, časih, ko je bil cvetoča oaza popotnikov in kultur z Vzhoda in Zahoda, časih blaginje, časih Marca Pola in drugih velikih drznih popotnikov, trgovcev in raziskovalcev. Dunhuangovo bogastvo so ljudje, kultura, zgodovina, umetnost in nenavadna puščavska pokrajina, zato od samega mesta, tiste tipične starodavne arhitekture, ki nas včasih tako privlači in vzbuja skoraj pravljične predstave, ne pričakujte veliko. In mogoče Dunhuangu do popolne popotniške destinacije manjka prav to. Ampak take in podobne zgodbe se dogajajo po vsej Kitajski in najbrž tudi drugod po svetu, a žal se njihovih posledic zavemo veliko prepozno. 103


The Oasis of Dunhuang BETWEEN TWO WORLDS TEXT AND PHOTOGRAPHY: JOŽE BALAS

Once an important trade outpost on the Silk Road and before that the westernmost military garrison protecting China against raids from barbaric tribes of the West, this oasis in the middle of nowhere now commands a position on the triple border of the provinces Gansu, Qinghai and Xinjiang, a haven mostly for travellers and tourists looking to escape the chaos of China’s metropolises and those who are drawn to vast expanses of desert, kind people and a rich cultural heritage. Indeed, there are many times and places, especially when travelling across China, when the idea of the place you had created on the basis of literature, travelogues or other records differs greatly from the reality that you discover on visiting, much to your surprise. This is what happens in Dunhuang, the city, or rather oasis, lost in the middle of nowhere – an oasis at the end of one desert and almost at the edge of the next desert – or path, whatever you want to call it. An oasis that is somewhere in the middle, an oasis that has been greeting and saying goodbye to travelling caravans for centuries. People coming to Dunhuang from the West were tired, if not exhausted, but definitely glad to have put the most difficult leg of their journey through western Turkmenistan or Xinjiang behind them. Their journey took them through nearly impassable mountain expanses and inhospitable deserts, of which the Taklimakan is the most infamous. As for those coming to Dunhuang from the East, they knew that their true journey was just beginning. Though it is arduous and long, the journey to Dunhuang from the East is not nearly as unpredictable and perilous. It runs along a sort of green belt at the foot of the Qilian Mountains from which rivers and torrents teeming with life flow towards the North where they soon disappear in the scorching desert sands of the Gobi. Despite this however, there has always been just enough water here to sustain life for the residents throughout the long centuries, allowing both small cities and smaller settlements to welcome travellers and caravans to their midst at any time. Whether coming to Dunhuang from the East or West, all travellers were welcomed with open arms. Residents of the oasis, a mix of Han, Hui and Uyghur peoples, are today still known for being open and friendly hosts, giving this city a special charm. 104


The Oasis of dunhuang

Well before setting out for Dunhuang, my son Vito and I first made a stop at Jiayuguan, the last fortress of the Great Wall of China, which from here on gradually disappears into the vast Gobi and Taklimakan deserts. This is where our desert story actually began, full of contrasts and strange events. This is also the approximate beginning of the story of the hazardous and unpredictable journey beyond the Great Wall, for Jiayuguan lies at the narrowest, strategic western section of the Hexi Corridor running between the Qilian and Hei Mountains, making it not only the last line of defence against the hordes of the West, but also a major passage for land caravans on the Silk Road. Also called the “Largest Fortress in the World", one of the most beautiful and largest military fortresses in China was built here at the edge of today’s city in 1372, during the Ming dynasty. Nowadays, this seemingly tranquil rural city is setting new milestones – in its vicinity, in the vast expanse of the desert, hides China’s biggest rocket launch site from which the Chinese sent their first rockets and astronauts into space. The extensive new residential complexes with proper avenues and the necessary infrastructure are tell-tale signs of the city’s great ambitions. In a few years’ time, Jiayuguan will completely change its appearance from what it is today, with the old marketplace sprawling only a stone’s throw away from the city centre and where the locals still come to the nearby bar to watch the evening news because they live modest lives and do not even have their own TV sets. You find a similar sight in Dunhuang. The unstoppable progress brought about by the irrepressible growth of the Chinese economy has touched even this remote place in the middle of nowhere. In recent years, over 100 kilometres of railway were built from Liuyuan to Dunhuang and over 150 kilometres of roads were renovated giving the city, where Marco Polo once made a stop, a brand new concrete outfit. In the oasis proper, you would be hard pressed to find any remains of traditional architecture, and unfortunately even the marketplace does not evoke any special feelings of nostalgia for old times. All in all, the oasis itself does not offer much except for good and diverse food and friendly people. On the other hand, this is exactly what makes it very important and priceless, even though the expected nostalgic image of an ancient oasis is missing. The area where the old image is best preserved is the poor neighbourhood on the left bank of the river Dang, where the remains of the only two relics from the rich history of this oasis are situated – the old city walls and the White Horse Pagoda –, but unfortunately, there is a strong smell of human excrement even here. The neighbourhood does not have a water supply and sewer system so there are public outhouses located along the road, of which no further words are necessary, while the children are simply relieving themselves in the streets. A total opposite to the new heart of the oasis located on the other

bank of the river, which is in a way impersonal and completely lacking in nostalgia. Despite this however, making a stop at Dunhuang is very much worth it for the many natural, historical and cultural delights offered by its surroundings. The Mogao Caves situated on the eastern precipitous slopes of the Mingsha hills, less than 25 kilometres southeast of the city, are the most famous and are considered the pinnacle of Buddhist art and legacy in China and beyond. Also known as the Caves of the Thousand Buddhas, they are actually small temples that began to be dug out around 366 AD. The entire complex of temples is 1600 metres long and was initially only intended for meditation and worship. Although no more than 492 caves/ temples have been preserved, they represent a priceless treasure: over 45,000 m2 of murals, 3,400 flat three-dimensional reliefs and wall sculptures of sizes ranging from just a few centimetres to as much as 33 metres, several thousand columns with lotus motifs, in one of the sealed caves they found more than 50,000 scriptures, portraits, books... On the whole, there is a lot to see here, even though only a fraction of the rich heritage is accessible to tourists; sadly, taking photos is strictly forbidden. And even when photography is not forbidden, there are no entry signs, such as in the oasis of the Crescent Lake Spring (Yueyaquan), which lies among dunes more than 100-metre high, six kilometres south from Dunhuang. For some unknown reason, climbing dunes (which offer the best view of the ancient temple and the small slowly disappearing crescent-shaped lake) to get the best shot possible is forbidden. Indeed, this is definitely the most photogenic location that attracts thousands of tourists, while the tall sand dunes, called the ‘singing sand’ by the locals, add a touch of drama to the whole landscape. Legend has it that a sandstorm engulfed an entire military garrison here and that the singing dunes, shaped by wind into curves that resemble sails, are actually the voices and screams of the soldiers lost in that storm. Another curiosity is the howling wind in the Yadan National Geological Park, located some 300 kilometres northeast of Dunhuang, at the border between the provinces of Gansu and Xinjiang. Approximately 700,000 years ago, nature here formed an unusual rocky landscape from sand and slate deposits, which produces chilling beastlike sounds, transforming it into the ‘Demon City’ at night when winds sweep the desert. This is also what the other cities that were once the last line of defence against the dangerous barbaric lands on the western border of China are like, abandoned for centuries and lost in the vast desert. Here, in this inhospitable desert lie the remains of military outposts and cities that were built centuries before the mighty fortress of Jiayuguan – Dunhuang for example as early as 104 BC –, cities that flourished and then sadly disappeared in the sand, with the only reminders being their silent crumbled walls. The city of Yumenguan or the Jade Gate, of which the great poet Wang Zhihuan (688-742) wrote that

it is so far away from the Empire that not even a spring breeze can reach it, was built as early as 131 BC and was used during the Han dynasty as the main pass to Central Asia and the main market for jade from all over Xinjiang. This is also the location of the oldest section of the Great Wall of China that has withstood the desert sands for two millennia and whose construction is quite different to what is pictured on the postcards. Indeed, besides the most advanced space programmes and rockets, there are probably many more exciting stories hidden in the desert sand: stories about how the Chinese Empire expanded its borders in the West, as archaeologists continue to discover more and more kilometres of the ‘Chinese Wall’ deep in the Taklimakan desert; stories about art or religion, for this was a passage where both Buddhism and Islam ‘travelled’, leaving deep roots throughout Western China. And finally, stories of ordinary traders, travellers, or people who managed to defy the difficult life in this harsh desert environment for millennia and whose tracks have long since been covered by the desert sand. These stories will without doubt keep on drawing the attention of the curious traveller for many centuries to come. Dunhuang is still living off its old glory days when it was a flourishing oasis for travellers and cultures from the East and West, in times of prosperity, in the time of Marco Polo and other great daring travellers, traders and researchers. Dunhuang’s wealth lies in its people, culture, history, art and the unusual desert landscape, which is why you should not expect much from the city itself, especially not in terms of the typical ancient architecture that attracts us so, evoking almost fairy-tale associations. Perhaps this is exactly what Dunhuang needs to become the ultimate travel destination. Though these and similar stories are happening all over China, and probably elsewhere in the world, we never seem to realise their consequences before it is much too late.

This is also what the other cities that were once the last line of defence against the dangerous barbaric lands on the western border of China are like, abandoned for centuries and lost in the vast desert. 105


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Zip line z eno najdaljših prog v Evropi

BESEDILO: Carmen Leban FOTOGRAFIJE: Iztok Dimc

Svoboden

kot ptica


svoboden kot ptica

Človek si je že od nekdaj želel poleteti in videti, kako zgleda svet od zgoraj. Čeprav je danes letenje že nekaj povsem običajnega, pa mnogi iščejo vedno nove izzive, podkrepljene z dobršno mero adrenalina. Tovrstne navdušence je gotovo razveselila letošnja novost – Zip line spust na pogorju Kanina, kjer pripet na jeklenico 200 metrov nad zemljo drviš s hitrostjo 40–60 km/h z enega hriba na drugega, vseskozi pa se ti odpirajo čudoviti panoramski pogledi, ki prek doline Soče sežejo vse do Triglava. Avantura se začne v Bovcu, kjer dobimo v agenciji popolno »bojno opremo« (alpinistični pas z dvojnim varovanjem in škripcem, s pomočjo katerega se pelješ po jeklenici, ter čelado in rokavice za zaviranje); tisto pravo opremo pa pri B postaji Kaninske žičnice, o koder nadaljujemo pot z nekdanjim vojaškim tovornjakom. Ko zagledamo prvo jeklenico, nam pogled avtomatično potuje za njo prek kanjona na sosednji hrib, oddaljen kakšnih petsto metrov. Ni ga junaka, ki se ob tem ne bi malo zamislil. A vodiči nas potolažijo in nam razložijo, da moramo pred spustom opraviti kratko šolanje v nekakšnem miniaturnem Zip line parku. Upoštevati je treba pravila Naučimo se pravilno namestiti opremo in se pripeti na jeklenico ter opravimo kratek spust po jeklenici, ki je vpeta med drevesi le kakšna 2 m nad zemljo. Vodiči nam za popotnico in pogum razložijo, da gre za popolnoma varen adrenalinski šport, a le pod pogojem, da upoštevamo napotke. Nekajkrat se spustimo po jeklenici, se poučimo o drži in se naučimo zavirati s pomočjo dlani, ki je zavarovana z rokavico. Vsi zadovoljni in polni pričakovanj se odpravimo na prvo platformo, kjer se začne zares. Prva jeklenica se strmo spušča in tudi najpogumnejšim se vsaj malo zatresejo kolena, le da nekateri to povedo na glas, drugi pa modro molčijo. Ko gre zares Spusti se prvi vodič, ki na drugem delu kanjona daje navodila in poskrbi, da se bomo pravilno zaustavili. Nekateri pred startom molčijo, drugi razmišljajo na glas, tu in tam pa slišiš »O ljubi bog«. A ko pogledamo desetletno Gajo, drobceno deklico, ki niti za hip ne okleva o tem, ali bi se podala v avanturo ali ne, je prav zavoljo nje marsikomu lažje. Prvih nekaj metrov doživlja vsak po svoje. Nekateri so tiho kot miške in ne premaknejo niti oči, drugi mahajo, vriskajo, pošiljajo poljubčke. Žvižg, ki ga oddaja jeklenica, ko po njej drvijo adrenalinski navdušenci, se odbija od gora.

Med samo pripravo na spust mi po glavi kroži marsikaj, med drugim tudi to, ali mi je bilo tega treba. Sem namreč v tisti fazi, ko je najbolj napeto: pripeta sem na jeklenico in čakam na znak za start z drugega konca kanjona. Vodič še zadnjič preveri, kako sem pripeta, če je z varovali vse v redu, in me odrine. Drvim kot strela. Sprva sem trda in glas mi obtiči v grlu. Previdno pogledam navzdol, vrhovi krošenj so globoko pod menoj. »Uf, visoko je, jaz pa visim na jeklenici in drvim čez kanjon globoko pod seboj.« Ko usmerim pogled proti soški dolini in čudovitemu vencu Julijskih Alp, ki jo obkrožajo, mi uspe iz grla zvabiti glas. Zaderem se, kolikor mi da srce, in tisti hip začnem uživati v neverjetni svobodi: odleže mi. En sam užitek Premagali smo prvo jeklenico. Občutki negotovosti, strahu in ugibanj izpuhtijo. Prišel je čas za uživanje. Skozi gozd sestopimo nekaj 10 metrov nižje do druge platforme. Tokrat se spustimo med krošnjami dreves in občutek imaš, da se pelješ skozi nekakšen tunel med drevesi. Tu že vsi veselo vreščimo in si dajemo duška. Na pol poti smo. Pri Zip line dogodivščini je namreč treba premagati štiri jeklenice v skupni dolžini 2400 metrov; do zadnje je avanturo v tandemu doživela le Gaja, potem pa so to okusili skoraj vsi udeleženci, za katere je spust kar prehitro minil. 107


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Na avanturo tudi letalsko osebje Adrie Airways Dejan Kovačič (kapitan) »Že od otroštva sem si želel, da bi se popeljal po jeklenici, a nikoli nisem imel priložnosti, zato nisem okleval niti trenutek. Tisti dan sem bil v službi, ob 15. uri smo pristali na letališču, dve uri kasneje pa sem že bil v Bovcu. Ko drviš po jeklenici, ni tako kot v potniškem ali jadralnem letalu ali padalu. Čisto drugačen občutek je in težko ga je opisati. Počutiš se svoboden kot ptica, imaš možnost opazovati naravo in vse, kar se dogaja okoli tebe. Navdušen sem in prepričan, da se bom še kdaj vrnil tja. Takrat bom tudi posnel nekaj fotografij in kakšen filmček.« Nataša Perona (stevardesa) »Adrenalinska izkušnja 200 m nad zemljo je enkratna. K prvi jeklenici sem pristopila nekoliko zadržana, pri četrti mi je bilo žal, da je konec. Malo več pozornosti je potrebno le ob ’poletanju’ in pristajanju, vmes pa je 100-odstotni užitek. Ker je bilo to moje prvo srečanje z Zip line, sem bila predvsem osredotočena na samo vožnjo, zato je čas, ko sem si ogledovala naravo s ptičje perspektive, vse prehitro minil.« Samo Oblak (stevard) »Poskusil sem že vso adrenalinsko ponudbo na Bovškem in moram priznati, da sem zelo užival pri soteskanju, takoj za njim pa bi na 2. mesto uvrstil Zip line. Idilični razgledi po dolini, odlični segmenti, ko letiš med smrekami, pri čemer prihaja do izraza hitrost, letenje 200 metrov nad zemljo in naravne lepote, vse v enem paketu. Zip line priporočam tudi avanturistom začetnikom. Dodano vrednost pa prispevajo tudi vodiči, ki s svojim znanjem, trudom in obvezno dozo humorja to izkušnjo spremenijo v nepozabno!« Črt Sambolec (športni pilot, stevard ) »Preden se novopečeni ’zip-liner’ dobro zave, že uživa v kraljestvu planinskega orla. Smreke, ki bežijo s hitrostjo 50 ali več km/ h pod nami, se izgubijo, ostaneta le piš vetra in zvok jeklenice. Pri prvem spustu je dojemanje počasnejše, kasneje je vse bolj stvarno. Preseneča dovršenost sistema in čisto nove jeklenice in ne od kakšne odslužene žičnice. Preizkusil sem že marsikateri ’zračni’ šport – od letenja z jadralnim in akrobatskim letalom –, a lahko rečem, da je Zip line najbolj podoben letu gorskih ptic visoko nad zemljo, še vedno pa ne toliko, kot bi bili v letalu. Navdušenje je bilo popolno.« Andreja Bogataj (stevardesa) »Bolj ko smo se bližali jeklenici, bolj me je stiskalo v želodcu. Višina, hitrost, mravljinci po hrbtu, mrazilo me je ... A vodiči so bili tako simpatični, da sem takoj pozabila na vse in se po jeklenici podala tretja po načelu ’čim prej, tem bolje’. Spraznila sem misli, umirila roke in se osredotočila na dane napotke. Bala sem se, da bom imela oči zaprte, a ko sem bila v zraku, je bilo noro – tišina in mir, krasni razgledi. Vse skupaj je minilo prehitro in avanturo si želim še kdaj ponoviti.«

Zip line je adrenalinsko spuščanje po jeklenici od ene do druge točke. Navadno prečiš kanjon, včasih reko ali se preprosto popelješ skozi gozd. Pri tem dobesedno lebdiš v zraku, na jeklenico si vpet s plezalnim pasom, na katerem je škripec, s pomočjo katerega drviš po jeklenici. Hitrost je odvisna od naklona jeklenice in seveda tudi od teže avanturista. Med najbolj znane Zip line avanture sodijo tiste na Karibih, kjer se popeljete skozi deževni gozd. Zip line izhaja iz Južne Amerike, zelo priljubljen pa je tudi na Novi Zelandiji in ponekod v Evropi. Bovški Zip line gotovo sodi med bolj slikovite in daljše adrenalinske avanture v Evropi. 108


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TEXT: Carmen Leban photography: iztok dimc

Zip-lining on One of Europe’s Longest Tracks Free As a Bird People have always dreamt of having the ability to fly and seeing the world from above. Today, flying is nothing special, but many people still look for fresh challenges that will give them a rush of adrenaline. They are sure to be excited by the news that zip-lining is now available on the slopes of Kanin, where adventurers can clip themselves to a stainless steel cable and race between two hills at 40 to 60 kmph some 200 m above the ground while enjoying the breathtaking panoramic views across the Soča Valley and all the way to Triglav.

The adventure begins in Bovec. We meet at the agency where we receive the basic equipment (a climbing harness with a double safety system and pulley that is used to travel along the cable as well as a helmet and gloves for braking). The real equipment awaits us at station B of the Kanin cable-car lift; from there, a former army truck takes us the rest of the way. As soon as we spot the first cable, our eyes instantly follow it all the way across the canyon to the neighbouring hill, a distance of some 500 m. It is enough to give pause for thought even to the bravest of us. But our guides soon make us feel better by explaining that we will first take a quick course at a miniature zip-line park before taking on the real thing. Follow the Rules We learn how to put on our equipment and clip ourselves to the cable; then, we try a short descent on a cable no more than 2 m above the ground, attached between two trees. Before we start, the guides give us courage by explaining that zip-lining is an adrenaline sport but one that is completely safe as long as we follow the instructions to the letter. We travel down the cable a few times, practice our posture and learn how to brake using our hands (on which we wear protective gloves). Satisfied and full of expectation, we head to the first platform. This is the real deal. The first cable looks very steep, making even the bravest of us feel slightly nervous, though not everyone is willing to admit it. The Real Deal One of the guides goes first, stopping on the other side of the canyon to help us out with instructions and to make sure that we stop in time. Some people wait for their turn in silence, others are thinking out loud; every now and then, someone exclaims, “Oh my God!” Then we look at Gaja, however, a slender, 10-year-old girl who doesn’t have a moment’s hesitation about this adventure, and suddenly we feel better. 110

For the first few metres, the experience is different for each one of us. Some are quiet as a mouse, not daring to move as much as an eyelid, while others wave, shout with joy and blow kisses. The cable gives off a loud whistle as each adventurer races down, the sound echoing from the mountains. As I prepare for my turn, my mind is swimming with thoughts but mainly with just one, “Why did I have to go and get myself into something like this?” I’m at the most nerve-wracking point of the adventure: clipped to the cable and waiting for the start signal from the other side of the canyon. The guide does a final check to make sure that I’m strapped in correctly and that everything is okay with the safety system, and then he pushes me away. I’m going as fast as lightning. At first I feel stiff; my voice catches in my throat. I peer down cautiously and see the treetops far below. “Wow, this is high. I am actually suspended on a cable racing across this canyon below!” As I look toward the Soča Valley and the magnificent ring of Julian Alps that surrounds me, I finally recover my voice. I shout as loudly as I can, and I immediately start to enjoy this incredible feeling of freedom: I feel relieved. Nothing but Pleasure We have overcome the first cable. Any feeling of doubt, fear and uncertainty has vanished into thin air. Now it is time to enjoy ourselves. We descend a few dozen metres through the forest and reach the second platform. This time we are zip-lining among the treetops; it feels like flying through a tunnel of trees. Now we are all shouting happily and enjoying every moment. We are halfway done. The Zip-Line Adventure comprises four cables with a total length of 2400 m; until the very last cable, Gaja was the only one to experience zip-lining in tandem, but then almost all of us tried it. The adventure was over much too quickly.


svoboden kot ptica

Adria Airways Crew Members Joins the Adventure Dejan Kovačič (captain) “Ever since I was a child, I’ve always wanted to try zip-lining, but this is the first time that I’ve had the opportunity. I didn’t hesitate for a moment. I started the day at work; at 15:00, we landed at the airport, and just two hours later, I was in Bovec. Racing down a cable feels different to flying in a passenger plane, a glider or with a parachute. It’s difficult to describe it, but the feeling is completely different. You feel as free as a bird, and you have time to admire nature and everything else that surrounds you. I loved it, and I’m sure that I’ll come back in the future. Next time, I’d like to take some pictures and make a video or two.” Nataša Perona (cabin crew) “This adrenaline experience 200 m above the ground is incredible. I was a bit apprehensive before taking on the first cable, but by the fourth one, I was sorry that it was over. The “take-off” and landing take a bit of extra attention, but everything else is pure enjoyment. Since this was my first time on a zip-line, I was totally focused on the ride itself; any time I had to admire nature from above was all too short.” Samo Oblak (cabin crew) “I’ve tried out every adrenaline sport that the Bovec region has to offer; my favourite was probably canyoning, but zip-lining comes a very close second. The idyllic views over the valley, those exciting sections among the spruce trees that really show you how fast you’re going, flying 200 m above the ground and enjoying the beautiful nature – all in one package. I would recommend ziplining even for beginner adventurers. Added value is provided by the guides, whose skill, hard work and humour make this a truly memorable experience.” Črt Sambolec (sport pilot, cabin crew) “As a first-time zip-liner, you find yourself in the domain of the golden eagles before you even realise it. You forget about the spruces flying past below you at 50 kmph or more, and all that’s left is the whisper of the wind and the whistle of the cable. It’s difficult to take everything in on your first descent, but things soon become less surreal. I was impressed by the efficiency of the system and by the fact that they used brand new stainless steel cables rather than old, used ski-lift cables. I’ve tried plenty of air sports – even gliding and aerobatics – but I can honestly say that zip-lining comes closest to the flight of mountain birds high above the ground, although not as high as in a plane. I thoroughly enjoyed the experience." Andreja Bogataj (cabin crew) “The closer we came to the cable, the more butterflies I felt in my stomach. The altitude, the speed, goosebumps down my back and chills all over ... But the guides were so friendly and warm-hearted that I soon forgot about my concerns. I told myself, ‘the sooner, the better,’ and took my place as third in line. I emptied my mind of all thoughts, steadied my hands and focused on the instructions we had been given. I was worried that I’d end up keeping my eyes closed the entire time, but once I was in the air, it was fantastic – peace and quiet, nothing but amazing views all around. It was all over far too quickly, and I really want to do it again.”

Zip-line refers to the adrenaline-filled descent down a stainless steel cable between two points. It usually comprises crossing over a canyon, sometimes a river, or simply racing through the trees. When zip-lining, you literally fly through the air; you wear a climbing harness with a pulley that attaches to the cable and allows you to race along it. The speed depends on the incline of the cable as well as on your weight. Some of the most famous zip-line adventures include tours in the Caribbean that lead through the rainforest. The zip-line has its origins in South America, but it is also extremely popular in New Zealand and some parts of Europe. The Bovec zip-line is one of the most picturesque as well as one of the longest adrenaline adventures in Europe. 111


Visoko nad oblaki, trdno na tleh Podjetje Avtenta, član Skupine Telekom Slovenije, je prvo izmed vodilnih slovenskih IT sistemskih integratorjev, ki je ponudilo tako rekoč samopostrežne poslovne storitve v oblaku. O tej novi ponudbi in poslovni filozofiji, ki pelje Avtento po poti uspeha, smo se pogovarjali z direktorjem podjetja, Vedranom Krevatinom. Kaj je Avtentina skrivnost uspeha? Avtenta je mlado podjetje, ki črpa veliko dobrega iz članstva v Skupini Telekom Slovenije. Naša dolžnost je, da smo samostojno proaktivni in prodorni, vendar hkrati sledimo cilju podpiranja in krepitve celotne Skupine ter matične družbe. Stranke dojemamo kot partnerje, ki jim poskušamo v največji možni meri pomagati pri uresničevanju njihovih poslovnih ambicij. Včasih to pomeni, da jim ponudimo zgolj nasvet, kako se lotiti zadev, drugič spet se iz tega odnosa razvijejo obsežnejša sodelovanja na več strokovnih področjih. Pri tem nam je v veliko pomoč naša vodilna konkurenčna prednost, torej sposobnost združevanja poslovnih, tehnoloških, varnostnih in komunikacijskih rešitev v po meri narejen paket, ki je našim kupcem na voljo na različne načine, od postavitve in upravljanja v njihovem domačem okolju, do zunanjega izvajanja pri nas. In vse to se odraža na končnem rezultatu, ki ga zaznamuje rast tudi v času krize. Kot dodatno pomembno dimenzijo uspeha pa vsekakor štejemo tvorno sodelovanje z matično družbo, ki smo ga poglobili prav na področju računalništva v oblaku, kar je odlično izhodišče za nove ambicije. Torej del vaših novih ambicij vodi v oblake? Vsekakor. Zavedamo se, da so na poti do cilja tako pasti kot prednosti. Zato v Avtenti ostajamo trdno na tleh, pozorni na oboje in vseskozi ohranjamo fokus ter posvečamo energijo novim rešitvam in pristopom. Ta miselnost nas je pripeljala do evolucije procesa načrtovanja in upravljanja, posodobitve korporativne identitete in ne nazadnje tudi do oblikovanja nišne blagovne

znamke Avtenta.now, ki v celoti prenaša prednosti računalništva v oblaku poslovnim uporabnikom. Namreč, pri Avtenta.now gre za takoj razpoložljive rešitve, ki jih naročite z enim klikom, za poljubno časovno obdobje, bodisi zato, ker ne želite vlagati denarja v nov strežnik ali ne morete upravičiti nakupa lastnega strežnika in poslovnih aplikacij za zgolj nekaj uporabnikov. Lahko pa jih brez težav najamete za mesečno naročnino in jih uporabljate v Avtentinem oblaku. Konkretno za kakšne rešitve oziroma storitve gre pri Avtenta.now? Pri sestavi ponudbe smo izhajali iz skupnih potreb različnih tipov podjetij in podjetnikov ter pri tem podredili tehnologije reševanju njihovih poslovnih izzivov. Obenem pa za vse rešitve ponujamo tehnično in vsebinsko podporo v slovenskem jeziku. Na tem področju imamo veliko izkušenj s svojim klicnim centrom za uporabniško pomoč, ki je lani uspešno obdelal več kot 60 tisoč uporabniških zahtevkov. Kdo so tipični uporabniki Avtenta.now rešitev? Pogosto se govori, da gre za rešitve, ki so pisane na kožo malim in srednjim podjetjem. Vendar pri nas ne vodimo te ločnice, ampak poskušamo ponuditi samopostrežne rešitve, ki so zanimive za mala, srednja in velika podjetja, pri tem pa vsem trem kategorijam zagotavljamo hiter začetek uporabe in enako visoko kakovost ter zanesljivost delovanja storitev. Kaj se vam zdi najbolj ključna sestavina za uspeh tovrstne ponudbe? Zaupanje. Po eni strani visoka stopnja zaupanja v lastne rešitve in predvsem zaupanje v ljudi, ki te rešitve zagotavljajo, prodajajo in podpirajo iz dneva v dan. Torej zaupanje, ki izhaja iz številnih izkušenj na velikih projektih


»Stranke dojemamo kot partnerje, ki jim poskušamo v največji možni meri pomagati pri uresničevanju njihovih poslovnih ambicij.«

Vedran Krevatin, direktor podjetja Avtenta, d.o.o.

za paradne konje slovenskega gospodarstva. Po drugi strani pa je izjemnega pomena pridobivanje in ohranjanje zaupanja naročnikov za upravljanje in skrb z njihovimi občutljivimi poslovnimi podatki. Ali uporabniki tem novim storitvam že zaupajo? Storitve računalništva v oblaku niso povsem nove. V resnici jih uporabljamo že dolgo časa, čeprav na to morda nikoli nismo bili posebej pozorni. Na primer spletna ebanka, državni portal e-davki, e-pošta in podobne storitve – vse zasledujejo enak koncept: čeprav te aplikacije niso nameščene na naših računalnikih, vedno delujejo in so vedno na voljo, kadar jih potrebujemo. Torej so nekje drugje, nekje v ”oblaku”. Zato osnovno zaupanje in naklonjenost uporabnikov do teh storitev že obstaja. Naša naloga je, da na teh pozitivnih izkušnjah gradimo naprej. Kako konkretno prepričate uporabnike, da so Avtenta.now storitve vredne zaupanja? Nenehno skrbimo za to, da vse storitve nemoteno delujejo 24 ur na dan, 7 dni v tednu, 365 dni v letu in seveda, da se programi sproti nadgrajujejo, da se ugotovijo napake na opremi preden te nastopijo in podobno. Lahko pa tudi prevzamemo vso skrb nad delovanjem in upravljanjem opreme in programov ter varovanjem podatkov. To pomeni, da kadarkoli ima kdorkoli kjerkoli težavo z delovanjem računalnika, interneta, e-pošte, tiskalnika, pisarniških programov ali katerekoli poslovne aplikacije, pokliče nas in zadevo sproti uredimo. Zato smo prepričani, da lahko naši uporabniki bolj mirno spijo, saj namesto, da so oprema in z njo povezana tveganja pri njih, se vse nahaja pri nas, v požarno, poplavno in potresno varnih sobah našega matičnega podjetja, Telekoma Slovenije.

Prednosti storitev Avtenta.now • • • • •

Rešitve v slovenskem jeziku. 24/7 podpora. Izjemna stopnja varnosti. Podatki shranjeni v Sloveniji. Dostop kadar koli in od koder koli. • Brez začetnih investicij in dolgotrajne implementacije.

Zakaj verjamete, da je danes pravi čas za računalništvo v oblaku? Vsebine v oblaku so danes tako razpoložljive in nepogrešljive, da je za normalno delovanje namiznih, prenosnih ali tabličnih računalnikov internetna povezava enako pomembna kot električno napajanje. Potreba torej obstaja, izziv pa je ponuditi poslovne storitve v oblaku v skladu z najvišjimi standardi odličnosti in varnosti. To je izziv, ki smo mu zaradi dolgoletnih izkušenj pri zagotavljanju poslovnih IKT rešitev v Avtenti docela dorasli.

now.avtenta.si


Solčavsko: EDEN destinacija 2009 The Solčavsko region: EDEN destination 2009

ČAROBNI KOTIČKI SLOVENIJE THE ENCHANTING NOOKS OF SLOVENIA Solčavsko ujeto med gorami / The Solčavsko region captured amidst mountains (Foto / Photo by: Tomo Jeseničnik)

SolčavSko – harmonija treh dolin kmalu zatem, ko so mogočne sile iz globin tetidinega morja dvignile gorovje kamniško-Savinjskih alp, je v kotanji med gorami vzniknilo življenje. med ostrimi, v nebo štrlečimi skalami se je menda sprehajala velikanska ajdovska deklica, šivala z veliko kamnito šivanko, se sklanjala z gore raduhe in prala v reki Savinji. v skrite, z življenjem bogate kotičke alp je pred več kot 25-tisoč leti, v stari kameni dobi, stopila noga ledenodobnega lovca. Zadrževal se je tudi v skalni votlini imenovani Potočka zijalka. izdeloval je igle, koščene konice in kamnita orodja, igral na prapiščal ter lovil divjad.  ob polzenju v doline so ledeniki med počasnim taljenjem oblikovali čudovite alpske doline. med njimi tudi logarsko dolino, robanov kot in matkov kot, ki danes sestavljajo Solčavsko območje. ljudje živijo tu po-

Pastir z ovco avtohtone jezersko-solčavske pasme A shepherd with a sheep indigenous to Jezersko-Solčava (Foto / Photo by: Tomo Jeseničnik)

www.slovenia.info

vezani z naravo že stoletja. mnoge navade, običaje in verovanja iz preteklosti je še dandanes moč najti v vsakdanjiku gostoljubnih domačinov. Solčavsko je nagrajeno z nazivom evropska destinacija odličnosti za turizem v varovanih območjih, ker na neponovljiv način združuje ohranjanje narave z življenjem domačinov in zvedavostjo obiskovalcev iz vsega sveta. www.solcavsko.info

iZvir Soče: BoŽanSki iZvir SmaraGdne SveŽine izvir reke Soče je eden najlepših kraških izvirov v slovenskih gorah. vode, ki se zbirajo na območju jalovca, Šit, travnika in mojstrovke, vrejo na dan iz jame s podzemnim jezercem ter se skozi ozko sotesko zlivajo v približno 10 m visok slap. Zeleno lesketajoč tolmun kristalne izvirske vode pospremi prve brzice in slapiče smaragdne reke Soče na 136 km dolgo pot proti morju. ljudsko izročilo pripoveduje, da so v trenti živeli bog triglav, bog jalovec in bog mangrt. ko je v trento prišel hudobni vodobruhec, ki je poplavljal vasi, so se bogovi domenili, da ga zaprejo in zavežejo v votlino. Usta so mu odprli toliko, da lahko namaka dolino. ko bo odslužil svojo kazen, ga bodo rešili in takrat bo Soča presahnila. do izvira dostopamo v idilični dolini trenta, osrčju triglavskega narodnega parka, 22 km iz kraja Bovec. od koče pri izviru Soče vodi označena pot, ki nas po 15 minutah pripelje do izvira. Pot je urejena ter v zgornjem delu zavarovana s klini in jeklenicami. Potrebna je primerna obutev ter ustrezna fizična pripravljenost. Pri izviru Soče se prične tudi 20 km dolga Soška pot, ki pohodnike očara s številnimi naravnimi in kulturnimi znamenitostmi ter nepozabnimi razgledi na vrhove julijskih alp. www.bovec.si


OglasnO spOrOčilO - advertising

robanov kot and matkov kot, which today compose the region of Solčavsko. People here have lived hand in hand with nature for centuries. many habits, customs and beliefs from the past can still be seen in today’s daily routines of its hospitable locals. The Solčavsko region has been awarded the title of the european Destination of excellence for tourism in protected areas, because it combines nature conservation and the life of locals with the curiosity of visitors coming from all parts of the world in a unique way. www.solcavsko.info

the Soča SPrInG: a DIvIne SPrInG of emeralD freShneSS

Izvir Soče The Soča spring (Foto / Photo by: Marko Pretner)

SolčavSko – a harmony of three valleyS Soon after the mighty forces elevated the mountains of the kamnik-Savinja alps from the depths of the tethys Sea, life emerged in the basin formed amidst the mountains. In between these sharp sky-projected rocks, the giant pagan girl ajdovska deklica is said to have wandered, sewed with a big stone needle, leaned from mount raduha and washed in the Savinja river. over 25,000 years ago, in the early Stone age, the ice-age hunter set foot in the hidden alpine nooks and crannies bursting with life. he would keep himself in a rock cavern called Potočka zijalka. he made needles, bone points and stone tools, played the ancient whistle and hunted deer.  Slowly melting and sliding down the mountains and into valleys, glaciers created magnificent alpine valleys. among these are the logarska valley,

Robanov kot - Planinci v krajinskem parku Robanov kot Hikers in the Robanov Kot Regional Park (Foto / Photo by: Rinka Centre archives)

SLOVENIJA

Zelena. aktivna. Zdrava.

The spring of the Soča river is one of the most beautiful karstic springs in the Slovenian mountains. The waters gathering in the region of mounts Jalovec, Šite, travnik and mojstrovka surge from a cavern with an underground lake and, making their way through a narrow ravine, flow into a 10-metre waterfall. The green twinkling pool of crystal clear spring water escorts the first rapids and cascades of the emerald Soča river to its 136-kilometre long journey to the sea. folklore tells a story of the gods triglav, Jalovec and mangrt living in trenta. When the evil water-spewer who flooded villages came to trenta, the gods arranged to close and tighten him up in a cavern. his mouth was left open only to such a degree so as to allow him to irrigate the valley. When he serves his sentence, he will be saved and, at that time, the Soča will dry up. you can reach the spring in the idyllic trenta valley, the heart of triglav national Park, by travelling 22 km from the town of Bovec. from the mountain hut next to the Soča spring, follow the marked trail leading to the spring. The 15-minute trail is organised and, at the top section, protected with spikes and wire ropes. you will require appropriate shoes and physical fitness. at the spring of the Soča, you can also set out on the 20-kilometre Soča trail, which dazzles hikers with its neverending natural and cultural sights and unforgettable views of the peaks of the Julian alps. www.bovec.si

Velika korita Soče Great Soča Gorge (Foto/ Photo by: David Štulc Zornik, arhiv LTO Bovec)

SLOVENIA

Green. active. healthy.


SLOVENIJA / SLOVENIA Nekaj osnovnih podatkov A few facts površina (v km2) gozdovi travniki polja in vrtovi sadovnjaki vinogradi dolžina meje (v km) s Hrvaško z Avstijo z Italijo z Madžarsko obala (v km)

20 273 11 854 5 593 2 471 402 163 546 324 235 102 46,6

najvišja točka

Triglav

2864 m

gostota naseljenosti

(prebivalcev/km) 98 prebivalstvo 2 milijona glavno mesto: Ljubljana

večja mesta: Maribor, Celje, Kranj, Velenje podnebje: alpsko, celinsko, sredozemsko jezik: Uradni jezik je slovenščina, na območjih z mešanim prebivalstvom pa tudi madžarščina in italijanščina. Pri stiku s tujci uporabljajo prebivalci Slovenije največkrat angleščino, nemščino, italijanščino in francoščino. denarna valuta: Denarna valuta je evro (EUR). Tuje valute lahko zamenjate na mejnih prehodih, v bankah, menjalnicah in hotelih.

territory area (in sq. km) 20273

major towns:

forests grassland fields and gardens orchards vineyards border length (in km) with Croatia with Austria with Italy with Hungary coastline (in km)

Maribor, Celje, Kranj, Velenje Continental, Mediterranean language: The official language is Slovene, as well as Hungarian and Italian in areas of mixed population. People who live in Slovenia most commonly use English to communicate with foreigners, then German, Italian and French. currency: The currency is the euro (EUR). Foreign currency may be exchanged at border crossings, in banks, exchange offices and hotels.

11 854 5 593 2 471 402 163 546 324 235 102 46.6

highest point

Triglav

2864 m

population density

(inhabitants/km) population capital:

98 2 million Ljubljana

climate: Alpine,

prazniki

holidays

1. in 2. januar novo leto 8. februar Prešernov dan, slovenski kulturni praznik 8. april velika noč 27. april dan upora proti okupatorju (druga svetovna vojna) 1. in 2. maj praznik dela 25. junij dan državnosti 15. avgust Marijino vnebovzetje 31. oktober dan reformacije 1. november dan spomina na mrtve 25. december božič 26. december dan samostojnosti

January 1 & 2 New Year’s Holiday February 8 Prešeren Day, Slovene Day of Culture April 8 Easter Sunday and Monday April 27 Day of Uprising Against the Occupation (WW2) May 1 & 2 Labour Day, Pentecost June 25 Statehood Day August 15 Assumption Day October 31 Reformation Day November 1 All Saints’ Day December 25 Christmas Day December 26 Independence Day


Copenhagen Manchester

Amsterdam

Brussels

Frankfurt

Munich Zurich

Vienna

Ljubljana

Verona

Belgrade Sarajevo Dubrovnik

Barcelona

Pristina

Podgorica Skopje

Menorca Ibiza

Tirana

Palma de Mallorca

Istanbul Thessaloniki Thassos

Kerkira/Corfu Lefkas Kefalonija Zakinthos

Malta

Skiatos

Lesbos Chios Samos Mykonos Santorini

Rhodos Karpatos

Heraklion Djerba

Kos


Evropa / Europe

Redni poleti Scheduled Flights

Čarterski poleti Charter Flights

zimski in poletni vozni red

Winter and summer timetable

Moscow

Nm/km

Čas poleta/ Flight time (A320/CRJ)

Iz/from Ljubljana/Brnik

Nm/km

Čas poleta/ Flight time (A320/CRJ)

Amsterdam

606/1122

1.35 h

Antalya

966/1789

2.35 h

Barcelona

686/1270

1.46 h

Aqaba

1454/2692

3.18 h

Iz/from Ljubljana/Brnik

Belgrade

267/494

0.65 h

Cairo

1276/2363

3.25 h

Brussels

559/1035

1.26 h

Chios

738/1367

2.10 h

Copenhagen

641/1187

1.39 h

Djerba

796/1474

2.20 h

Frankfurt

420/778

1.07 h

Dubrovnik

292/541

1.05 h

Istanbul

781/1446

1.53 h

Heraklion

832/1540

2.15 h

Manchester

868/1608

2.11 h

Hurghada

1533/2839

3.45 h

Moscow (Sheremetyevo)

1120/2074

2.35 h

Ibiza

799/1480

2.20 h

Munich

224/415

0.41 h

Karpathos

996/1844

2.35 h

Pristina

622/1150

1.50 h

Kefalonija

585/1083

1.45 h

Podgorica

365/676

1.25 h

Kerkira (Corfu)

523/968

1.35 h

Sarajevo

222/411

0.41 h

Kos

873/1616

2.20 h

Skopje

413/765

1.07 h

Larnaca

1197/2216

3.00 h

Tirana

474/878

1.14 h

Lefkas (Preveza)

567/1050

1.40 h

Vienna

153/283

0.30 h

Lesbos (Mitiline)

746/1381

2.10 h

Zurich

334/619

0.56 h

Malta

670/1241

2.00 h

Menorca

646/1196

1.55 h

Mykonos

793/1468

1.56 h

Palma de Mallorca

723/1339

2.10 h

Rhodos

947/1753

2.30 h

Samos

823/1524

2.10 h

Santorini

836/1548

2.15 h

Sharm el Sheikh

1505/2787

3.45 h

Skiatos

632/1170

1.50 h

Thassos (Kavala)

563/1043

1.45 h

Antalya

Larnaca

Iz/from PRIŠTINA

Cairo Sharm el Sheikh

Tel Aviv

Hurghada

Aqaba

Frankfurt

930/1722

2.50 h

Tel Aviv

1286/2382

2.57 h

Munich

646/1196

2.00 h

Thessaloniki

571/1057

1.24 h

Verona

650/1204

2.00 h

Zakinthos

632/1170

1.50h

Adria Airways has used the map or Europe exclusively as an illustration of its flight connections and without any political or other implications.


ADRIA AIRWAYS

Flota - Fleet Ilustracije: Miha Žnidar

Airbus A319

Število/Total 2 Dolžina/Length 33.84 m Višina/Height 11.76 m Razpon kril/Wingspan 34.10 m Hitrost/Cruising speed 900 km/h Višina poleta/Max. altitude 11 700 m Dolet/Range 6 650 km Št. potnikov/Passenger capacity 135

Airbus A320

Število/Total 1 Dolžina/Length 37.57 m Višina/Height 11.75 m Razpon kril/Wingspan 31.10 m Hitrost/Cruising speed 900 km/h Višina poleta/Max. altitude 11 700 m Dolet/Range 3 890 km Št. potnikov/Passenger capacity 180

Bombardier CRJ-900

Število/Total 4 Dolžina/Length 32.50 m Višina/Height 7.57 m Razpon kril/Wingspan 23.20 m Hitrost/Cruising speed 882 km/h Višina poleta/Max. altitude 12 496 m Dolet/Range 3 600 km Št. potnikov/Passenger capacity 86

Bombardier CRJ-200 LR

Število/Total 6 Dolžina/Length 26.77 m Višina/Height 6.22 m Razpon kril/Wingspan 21.21 m Hitrost/Cruising speed 860 km/h Višina poleta/Max. altitude 12 496 m Dolet/Range 3 285 km Št. potnikov/Passenger capacity 48/50

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TRGOVINA

NAD OBLAKI

Adria Airways d.d., Zgornji Brnik 130h, 4210 Brnik-Aerodrom

Adria Airways d. d., Zgornji Brnik 130h, 4210 Brnik-Aerodrom

Agencija SMM

ADRIASKYSHOP.si

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ADRIA AIRWAYS

Dobrodošli v letalu Adrie Airways Spoštovani potniki, vaše zadovoljstvo je naš uspeh. Da bi bilo potovanje z nami čim bolj prijetno, nam dovolite, da vas opozorimo na nekaj napotkov, ki so pomembni za vaše udobje in varnost pred poletom, med njim in po pristanku.

Pred poletom Ekonomski in poslovni razred Na večini Adrijinih prog izmenično letijo letala tipa Airbus A-319, A-320, Canadair Regional Jet CRJ-200LR in CRJ-900. Vozovnica za potovanje v poslovnem razredu je izdana po veljavni tarifi za poslovni razred in velja eno leto z možnostjo rezervacije, plačila in prevzema kadarkoli, omogoča pa tudi druge ugodnosti, kot so: sprememba datumov potovanja brez doplačila, večja količina brezplačne prtljage, uporaba poslovnih salonov na letališčih idr. V ekonomskem razredu potujejo potniki z vozovnicami po ekonomskih tarifah, ki so nižje in vsebujejo določene omejitve. Nakup vozovnice prek spleta Letalsko vozovnico lahko najceneje in hitro rezervirate ter kupite na Adrijini spletni strani www. adria.si. To velja le za polete na Adrijinih letih. Nakup prek interneta je zaščiten z varnostnim certifikatom. Elektronske vozovnice prejme potnik po elektronski pošti. V primeru, da potrebujete letalsko vozovnico, kjer bodo vključeni tudi drugi prevozniki, vas prosimo, da pokličete naš Klicni center za rezervacije in prodajo letalskih vozovnic na telefonskih številkah 386 1 369 10 10 in 080 13 00. Potujte z elektronsko vozovnico Na vseh rednih poletih slovenskega letalskega prevoznika je možno leteti z elektronsko vozovnico. Potnik dobi ob nakupu potniški kupon, ki velja kot račun, in načrt poti (itinerar) v ovitku Adrie Airways. Dokument lahko prejme tudi na svoj elektronski naslov in ga natisne sam. To dokumentacijo mora imeti s seboj ves čas potovanja. Pri okencu za prijavo na let se identificira s potnim listom ali osebno izkaznico. Uslužbenec izda potniku vstopni kupon za let, s katerim ta vstopi v letalo. Elektronski način dokumentiranja prodaje zagotavlja sproten vpogled v dogajanje z vozovnico, hiter prenos podatkov in manjše možnosti zlorab. Najpomembnejše pri tem pa je, da so potnikovi kuponi za let shranjeni v elektronski obliki in tako varni pred izgubo. Adria Airways tudi na mobilnih telefonih Vsem uporabnikom pametnih telefonov sporočamo, da si lahko na svojem mobilnem brskalniku nastavite našo mobilno stran m.adria.si ali pa s skenerjem kod poskenirate QR kodo. Če skenerja nimate, si ga lahko naložite na povezavi »http://www.i-nigma. com/Download-nigmaReader.html”. Uporabniki iPhona pa to najdete v iStoru. Mobilna stran prinaša: spremljanje statusa letov, informacije o voznem redu,

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informacije o naših destinacijah in informacije o vremenu na destinacijah. Poleg tega pa lahko na tej strani najdete še: vodič za potnike, turistični vodnik, naše kontakte in različne povezave do sledenja prtljage, iskanja poslovnih salonov po letališčih in preverjanje milj v klubu Miles&More. Seveda pa so tu še novice in najbolj vroče cenovne ponudbe vozovnic ter »checkmytrip«, kjer lahko preverite svoje potovanje. Web Check-in V Adrii Airways se zavedamo, da je pri potovanju pogosto dragocena vsaka minuta. Še posebej takrat, kadar nas na poti na letališče ovira gost promet. Web check-in je novost, s katero boste prihranili čas pri okencu za prijavo na let, saj se nanj lahko prijavite že od doma, z delovnega mesta oziroma povsod, kjer je vzpostavljena internetna povezava. Svoj planirani let lahko prijavite največ 24 ur in najmanj 60 minut pred poletom. Storitev web-check-in je trenutno možna le za določene lete Adrie Airways. V prihodnjih mesecih bomo obstoječim destinacijam postopoma dodajali še nove. Omejitve pri vnosu živil v EU Potnikom svetujemo, naj pred potovanjem preverijo seznam artiklov, ki jih je mogoče vnesti na območje Evropske skupnosti. Strog nadzor nad uvozom mesa, mleka, rib, lupinarjev in drugih tovrstnih izdelkov je nujen za zaščito ljudi in živali pred boleznimi, ki se lahko prenašajo s temi živili. V primeru, da carinska služba pri rutinskem pregledu osebne prtljage ugotovi prisotnost nedovoljenih živil živalskega izvora, le-te zaseže. Informativni letak “Kaj prinesti domov?” vam je na voljo na naši spletni strani. Več informacij lahko dobite na Glavnem uradu VURS-a ali na njihovi spletni strani www.vurs.gov.si v poglavju Javne objave/Uvoz živil za osebno rabo. Ročna prtljaga Zaradi vaše varnosti in udobja vas vljudno prosimo, da upoštevate mednarodna pravila, ki potniku dovoljujejo imeti pri sebi en kos ročne prtljage v velikosti 55 x 40 x 23 cm in z največjo težo osem kilogramov. Ročno prtljago namestite v za to namenjeni predal nad sedežem, težje kose pa, če je le mogoče, shranite pod sedež pred sabo. Priporočamo vam, da predal s prtljago pazljivo odpirate, saj se lahko med poletom predmeti v njem premaknejo. Na letalih CRJ oddajte večjo ročno prtljago pred letalom. Tam jo takoj po izstopu iz letala tudi prevzemite. Varnostna pravila Evropska unija je v letu 2006 sprejela nova varnostna pravila. Ta omejujejo količino tekočin, ki jo lahko vzamete s seboj na letalo. V svoji ročni prtljagi lahko prenašate samo majhne količine tekočin, ki morajo biti shranjene v posamičnih posodah z največjo prostornino 100 mililitrov. Te posode morate zapakirati v prozorno plastično vrečko, ki jo je mogoče znova ponovno zatesniti; prostornina vrečke posameznega potnika ne sme biti večja od enega litra. Med tekočine spadajo: voda in druge pijače, juhe in sirupi; kreme, losjoni in olja; parfumi; razpršilci; geli, vključno z geli za lase in tuširanje; posode z vsebinami pod pritiskom, vključno s peno za britje ter


drugimi penami in dezodoranti; kreme, vključno z zobno kremo; mešanice tekočin in trdih snovi; črtalo za veke in tuš za trepalnice ter katerekoli druge snovi s podobno vsebnostjo. Še vedno lahko tekočine prenašate v oddani prtljagi – nova pravila se nanašajo samo na ročno prtljago. V svoji ročni prtljagi lahko prenašate: • zdravila in nujno potrebna živila (vključno z otroško hrano), ki jih boste uporabljali med potovanjem; morda boste morali dokazati, da jih nujno potrebujete; • tekočine, kot so pijače in parfumi (kupite jih lahko bodisi v prodajalni na letališču v EU, ki je za točko, na kateri pokažete svoj vstopni karton, bodisi na letalu, ki ga upravlja prevoznik EU). Če ste tekočine kupili zapakirane v posebni zatesnjeni vrečki, te vrečke pred varnostnim pregledom ne odpirajte, sicer lahko varnostno osebje na kontrolni točki njeno vsebino zaseže. Če na letališču presedate na drug let, vrečke ne odpirajte pred varnostnim pregledom na transfernem letališču oziroma na zadnjem letališču, če presedate več kot enkrat. Če imate kakršne koli dvome ali vprašanja, se pred potovanjem obrnite na svojega letalskega prevoznika ali potovalno agencijo.

V letalu je na voljo priročna lekarna, opremljena s sredstvi za nudenje prve pomoči. Med poletom lahko včasih v ušesih občutite neprijeten pritisk, do česar prihaja zaradi sprememb višine in zračnega pritiska v letalu; težavo boste zlahka odpravili s poudarjenim požiranjem sline ali z nakazanim zehanjem. Da bi se izognili težavam z ožiljem, ko gre za dolg polet, vam svetujemo, da se večkrat sprehodite po potniški kabini, med sedenjem pa delate vaje za raztezanje celega telesa. Postrežba med letom Tudi na letalu bodo člani našega prijaznega osebja lepo poskrbeli za vas. Odvisno od trajanja leta, destinacije in razreda v letalu vam bodo na voljo okusni obroki, postrežba pijače, časopisi in naš odlični In-Flight Magazine, na letih izven EU pa boste lahko nakupovali tudi v našem »zračnem« Adria Shopu. Hrana in pijača sta na rednih letih Adrie Airways že vključeni v voznino, na čarterskih poletih pa potnikom zaračunavamo alkoholne pijače po naslednjem ceniku:

Med letom

• • • • •

Napotki za varnost Z najpomembnejšimi varnostnimi napotki vas bo pred poletom seznanilo naše kabinsko osebje, poleg tega pa boste v žepu sedeža pred sabo našli navodila za postopke v sili. Ker se glede na tip letala ta navodila razlikujejo, vas prosimo, da jih pred vsakim poletom pazljivo preučite.

V kolikor pa bi imeli zaradi zdravstvenih, verskih ali ideoloških pogledov kakršnekoli zadržke do določene hrane, vam v Adrii Airways ponujamo pester izbor tako imenovanih posebnih obrokov. Izbor si lahko ogledate na naši spletni strani v rubriki Vodič za potnike; pomembno pa je, da svoje želje zaupate svetovalcu že ob rezervaciji oziroma nakupu vozovnice.

Med vzletanjem in pristajanjem si morate pripeti varnostni pas, zaradi varnosti in udobja pa vam priporočamo, da ostanete pripeti tudi med poletom.

Alkohol v letalu V letalu ni dovoljeno uživanje alkoholnih pijač, ki jih prinesete s sabo. Kabinsko osebje ne sme streči alkoholnih pijač osebam, ki kažejo znake vinjenosti, in osebam, mlajšim od 18 let. Dobronamerno vas opozarjamo, da alkohol zaradi nekoliko nižjega zračnega pritiska med poletom deluje na telo hitreje in bolj intenzivno kot na tleh.

Po pristanku počakajte na svojem sedežu, dokler se letalo popolnoma ne ustavi oziroma dokler ne ugasne znak za obvezno uporabo varnostnih pasov. Kapitan letala lahko podeli potniku, ki se v letalu neprimerno vede, tako imenovani RDEČI KARTON. Ta je namenjen vsem, ki s svojim vedenjem ovirajo delo kabinskega osebja, ne spoštujejo varnostnih pravil ali pa ogrožajo varnost in udobje potnikov. Napad na varnost zračnega prometa je kaznivo dejanje po 330. členu Kazenskega zakonika RS (KZ-1), ki za tovrstna dejanja predpisuje zaporno kazen. Uporaba elektronskih naprav V letalu ni dovoljeno uporabljati prenosnih telefonov (biti morajo popolnoma izključeni!), radijskih in televizijskih sprejemnikov, videoiger z daljinskim upravljanjem, računalniških tiskalnikov in drugih naprav, ki bi lahko z elektromagnetnimi valovi motile delovanje občutljivih letalskih instrumentov. Druge elektronske naprave, denimo prenosne računalnike, CD in DVD predvajalnike ter žepne kalkulatorje, je dovoljeno uporabljati le med poletom (če ne povzročajo motenj), med vzletanjem in pristajanjem pa ne. Prosimo vas, da se pred uporabo elektronskih naprav posvetujete s kabinskim osebjem in dosledno upoštevate njihove napotke.

pivo 0,33 l vino 0,2 l penina 0,25 l Chivas Regal 0,05 l ostale miniature

2,50 € 3,00 € 3,50 € 2,10 € 1,80 €

po pristanku Zamujena, izgubljena ali poškodovana prtljaga Če bi med vašim potovanjem prišlo do nepravilnega ravnanja z vašo registrirano prtljago (velja tudi za prtljago, oddano pred letalom), zadevo takoj po prihodu prijavite na letališču pri ustrezni službi (Izgubljeno/Najdeno, Lost&Found, Arrival Service). Telefonska številka pa je + 386 (0) 25 94 339. Center za stike s potniki V Adrijinem Centru za stike s potniki lahko dobite vse informacije o naši ponudbi in novostih pa tudi pomoč ali nasvet.

Nevarni predmeti Po mednarodnih varnostnih predpisih potnikom v letalu ni dovoljeno imeti (ne pri sebi ne v prtljagi) orožja in drugih nevarnih predmetov, kot so: vnetljive tekočine, pločevinke s stisnjenim ali utekočinjenim plinom, lahko vnetljive snovi, vžigalice, ki niso označene kot varne, in podobno.

Sem lahko potniki posredujete pritožbo ali odškodninski zahtevek, veseli pa bomo tudi pohvale. Na naš center se lahko obrnete osebno, pisno, po elektronski pošti prc@adria.si ali po telefonu na brezplačno številko 080 13 03 za klice znotraj Slovenije oziroma kot doslej na telefonsko številko +386 (0)1 369 11 33.

Počutje in zdravje Vašemu dobremu počutju sta namenjena ventil za uravnavanje dotoka zraka in lučka za branje, ki sta nameščena nad sedežem. Tam je tudi pozivni gumb, s katerim lahko po potrebi pokličete članico oziroma člana kabinskega osebja.

Najem avtomobila in hoteli Na Adrijini spletni strani je zavihek Rent-a-car, ki vam omogoča najugodnejši najem vozila. Zelo enostavno: obiščite www.adria.si. Pri Budgetu lahko najamete vozilo na več kot 3.400 lokacijah v 128 državah po vsem svetu.

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ADRIA AIRWAYS

Adria Airways Welcomes You Aboard Dear passengers, your satisfaction is our success. In order to ensure that your Adria flight is as pleasant as possible, allow us to draw your attention to certain points that are important for your comfort and safety before take-off, during the flight and after landinG.

Before take-off Economy and business class The majority of Adria routes are served by the following aircraft: Airbus A319 and A320, Bombardier CRJ-200 LR and CRJ-900. A business-class ticket is issued according to the current business-class tariff and is valid for one year. The ticket can be booked, paid for and picked up at any time and includes other advantages such as changing the date of travel without additional charge, a larger free baggage allowance, the use of business lounges at airports, etc. Economy class is for passengers with economy-class tickets, which are cheaper and carry certain restrictions. Online ticketing The cheapest and quickest way to book a flight and buy a ticket is to visit Adria’s website at www.adria.si. This only applies to flights operated by Adria. Online purchases are protected by a security certificate. Passengers receive their electronic tickets via e-mail. If you require a ticket that will also include other carriers, please contact our Call Centre for Reservations and Ticket Sales on: 386 1 369 10 10 or 080 13 00. Travel with an electronic ticket You can travel with an electronic ticket on all Adria Airways scheduled flights. On purchasing a ticket, passengers receive a passenger coupon and itinerary in an Adria Airways cover. You can also receive the document via e-mail and print it yourself. You must keep this document with you throughout the journey. At the check-in, present your passport or identity card. The checkin personnel will issue you with your boarding pass. Electronic documentation of the ticket sale means that the ticket status can be verified at any time. It also facilitates rapid transfer of data and reduces the chance of abuse. Most importantly, there is no danger of losing the boarding pass, since it is stored in electronic form. Adria Airways on mobile phones To all smartphone users – we would like to inform you that you can now set our mobile site, m.adria.si, on your mobile browser or scan your QR code with a barcode scanner. If you do not have a barcode scanner, you can download one by clicking the following link http://www.i-nigma.com/ Downloadi-nigmaReader.html. iPhone users can find this in the iStore. The mobile site provides information on the following: flight status, timetables, destinations and weather conditions. In addition, you will also find the following: travellers guide, tourist guide, our contact details and various links to: baggage tracking, searches by airport business lounge, and frequent flyer miles in the Miles & More Club.

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Of course, you can also find news, the hottest ticket price bids and “checkmytrip” where you can check information on your trip. Web Check-in At Adria we are aware that every minute is precious when you are travelling. Especially when heavy traffic holds you up on the way to the airport. The web check-in service is a new service that lets you save time at the check-in desk: because you can check in from home or office – or anywhere with an Internet connection. You can check in as early as 24 hours and up to 60 minutes before your scheduled departure time. Web check-in is currently only available on selected Adria flights. In the coming months new destinations will gradually be added. Restrictions on bringing food into the EU We advise passengers to check the list of articles that may be brought into the EU before travelling. Strict controls of the import of meat, milk, fish, shellfish and products derived from them is necessary to protect people and animals from the diseases that they can transmit. If customs officials discover prohibited foodstuffs of animal origin during routine luggage checks, they will be confiscated. The informative leaflet “What to bring home” is available on our website. More information is available from the Veterinary Administration of the Republic of Slovenia or on its website http://www.vurs.gov.si/ under the section Public Announcements/Import of Foodstuffs for Personal Use. Carry-on baggage For your safety and comfort, we ask you to observe international rules that permit passengers to have one piece of carry-on baggage of a maximum size of 55 x 40 x 23 cm and a maximum weight of 8 kg. Carry-on baggage should be placed in the overhead bins. Heavier items may be stored under the seat in front of you if possible. We recommend that you take care when opening the overhead bins as items may have moved during the flight and may fall out. If your flight is on a CRJ aircraft, larger items of carry-on baggage must be surrendered on boarding. They will be returned to you when you leave the aircraft. EU airport security rules In 2006 the European Union adopted new security rules that restrict the amount of liquids that passengers can take aboard aircraft. You are only allowed to take small quantities of liquids in your hand luggage. These liquids must be in individual containers with a maximum capacity of 100 millilitres each. These containers must be packed in one transparent re-sealable plastic bag of not more than one litre capacity per passenger. Liquids include: water and other drinks, soups, syrups; creams, lotions and oils; perfumes; sprays; gels, including hair and shower gels; contents of pressurised containers, including shaving foam, other foams and deodorants; pastes, including toothpaste; liquid-solid mixtures; mascara; any other item of similar consistency.


You can still: • pack liquids in bags that you check in – the new rules only affect hand luggage; • carry in your hand luggage medicines and dietary requirements, including baby foods, for use during the trip. You may be asked for proof that they are needed; • buy liquids such as drinks and perfumes in an EU airport shop when located beyond the point where you show your boarding pass or on board an aircraft operated by an EU airline. If they are sold in a special sealed bag, do not open it before you are screened – otherwise the contents may be confiscated at the checkpoint. (If you transfer at an EU airport, do not open the bag before screening at your airport of transfer, or at the last one if you transfer more than once). • If you have any doubts, please ask your airline or travel agent in advance of travel.

During the flight Safety information Our cabin crew will give you important safety information before take-off. You will find instructions for emergency procedures in the pocket of the seat in front of you. Since these procedures differ depending on the type of aircraft, we ask you to read the instructions carefully before every flight. During take-off and landing you must fasten your seatbelt. For your own safety and comfort we also recommend that you leave it fastened during the flight. After landing, wait in your seat until the aircraft comes to a complete stop or until the seatbelt sign is switched off. The captain can issue a passenger who acts inappropriately on the aircraft with what is called a RED CARD. The red card is intended for anyone whose behaviour obstructs the work of the cabin crew, who does not observ safety instructions or who threatens the safety and comfort of passengers. Unacceptable behaviour on board an aircraft is a violation of the law. Placing air traffic in jeopardy is a criminal offence in accordance with Article 330 of the Criminal Code of the Republic of Slovenia (KZ-1), carrying with it the penalty of imprisonment. Use of electronic devices Use of the following devices is not permitted aboard the aircraft: mobile phones (they must be switched off!), radios and televisions, video games with remote control, computer printers and other devices emitting electromagnetic waves which could interfere with sensitive aircraft systems. Other electronic devices such as portable computers, CD and DVD players and pocket calculators may only be used during the flight (if they do not cause a disturbance). They may not be used during take-off and landing. Please check with the cabin crew before using electronic devices and be sure to follow their instructions.

The aircraft is equipped with a first aid kit. During the flight you may feel an uncomfortable pressure in your ears. This is caused by changes in altitudeand the air pressure in the aircraft; swallowing or yawning will help relieve the discomfort. In order to avoid vein problems associated with long flights, we advise you to take frequent walks up and down the cabin and to do stretching exercises for the whole body while seated. Service during the flight Our friendly staff will also serve you while on board the aircraft. Depending on the length of the flight, the destination and the class of travel, you will be offered tasty meals, drink service, newspapers and our outstanding InFlight magazine, and on longer flights you can also make purchases in our “airborne” Adria Shop. Meals and drinks are included in the ticket price on scheduled flights, while on charter flights passengers have to pay for alcoholic beverages: • • • • •

Beer 0,33l Wine 0,2l Sparkling Wine 0,25l Chivas Regal 0,05l Other miniature liquers

2,50 eur 3,00 eur 3,50 eur 2,10 eur 1,80 eur

With a thought of each passanger we carefully prepaired a huge sellection of the so-called special meals which you could order. Reason being either medical or religious, a matter or your life style or personal belief – there is something for each one of you. A variety of special meals is to be found on our website, just follow the Passanger Guide tab. However, it is of significant importance to state you wish as soon as you book or purchase your ticket. Alcohol on board Consuming alcoholic beverages that you have brought on board the aircraft yourself is not permitted. The cabin crew is not allowed to serve alcohol to passengers who show signs of intoxication or to passengers under 18 years old. Please bear in mind that because of the lower air pressure during flight, alcohol has a faster and stronger effect than on the ground.

After landing Delayed, lost and damaged baggage If problems occur with your checked baggage during your journey (also applies to luggage surrendered on boarding), contact the appropriate service as soon as you arrive at the airport (Lost & Found, Arrival Service, etc.) Passenger Relations Centre Adria’s Passenger Relations Centre provides you with news and information about our services and can also offer assistance and advice.

Hazardous items Under international safety regulations air passengers may not transport, either on their person or in their luggage, weapons and other hazardous items such as flammable liquids, compressed or liquefied gas cylinders, highly inflammable materials, matches (except safety matches), and so on.

Passengers can submit complaints or compensation claims, and praise is always welcome. You can contact the centre in person, in writing, by e-mail to prc@adria.si, and by phoning the free telephone number 080 13 03 if calling from Slovenia, +386 1 369 11 33 if calling from outside Slovenia.

Comfort and health For your comfort, an adjustable air vent and a reading light are located above your seat. There is also a button which you can use to call a member of the cabin crew if necessary.

Car hire and hotels There is a tab on Adria’s website that enables you to hire a car throughout the world at favourable rates. Simply visit www.adria.si. Budget offers Adria Airways customers the best car hire deals in more than 3,400 destinations in 128 countries!

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ADRIA AIRWAYS

Ostale storitve Adrie Airways - Other services Čarterski prevozi Adria Airways ponuja potnikom, agencijam, podjetjem in drugim letalskim prevoznikom poleg svojih rednih linij tudi čarterske polete iz Ljubljane in vseh drugih (predvsem evropskih) letališč. Z vstopom v Evropsko unijo ponujamo agencijam, podjetjem in drugim letalskim prevoznikom tudi polete z vseh drugih evropskih letališč. Odlikujejo nas zlasti prilagodljivost, ažurnost, visoka kakovost in točnost poletov. E-pošta: charter@adria.si Charters In addition to its scheduled services, Adria Airways offers charter flights from Ljubljana and other (mainly European) airports to passengers, agencies, companies and other carriers. Now that Slovenia is part of the European Union, we can also offer flights from all other European airports to agencies, companies and other carriers. Adria charters offer flexibility, up-to-the-minute services, high quality and punctuality. E-mail: charter@adria.si

Prevoz tovora

Uradni prevoznik dogodkov

Blagovna služba Adrie Airways odpremi vse pošiljke hitro in kakovostno do vseh letališč po svetu. V sodelovanju z drugimi prevozniki in s pomočjo računalniško podprtega rezervacijskega sistema spremljamo vsako pošiljko od sprejema do predaje naslovniku.

ADRIA CARGO, Letališče Ljubljana – Prevoz tovora Telefon: + 386 (04) 259 43 40, Faks + 386 (04) 202 30 30 E-pošta: cargo@adria.si

Kot sodobna družba razumemo potrebe poslovnega vsakdanjika, ki se vse pogosteje odvija v globalnem prostoru. Zato stopamo naproti tistim, ki organizirajo konference, kongrese, sejme ali druge mednarodne dogodke tako, da postanemo njihov uradni ekskluzivni prevoznik, udeležencem ter organizatorju pa nudimo posebne ugodnosti. Preprosto, učinkovito in prilagojeno potrebam svojih uporabnikov poskrbimo za to, da poteka dogodek uspešno, udeleženci pa prispejo na cilj pravočasno, varno in zanesljivo. Kot članica združenja Star Alliance Iahko za večje mednarodne kongrese zagotovimo produkt “Conventions PlusTM”, v sklopu katerega postane več članov združenja uradni prevoznik dogodka. Za vse nadaljnje informacije smo dosegljivi po elektronski pošti: events@adria.si

Cargo

Official events carrier

The Adria Airways cargo service provides fast, high-quality goods transport to every airport in the world. In conjunction with other carriers, and with the help of a computerised booking system, we monitor every item from reception to delivery.

As a modern company we understand the needs of modern business, which increasingly takes place in the global arena. For this reason we are ideally positioned to work with organisers of conferences, congresses, fairs and other international events by becoming their official exclusive carrier and offering discounted fares and other advantages to participants and organisers. With a simple, efficient approach adapted to the needs of our customers, we make sure that the event runs smoothly, with participants arriving at their destination on time, safely and reliably. As a Star Alliance member we offer the Conventions Plus service for major international conferences, which effectively makes all Star Alliance members the official carrier for the event. For more information write to us at: events@adria.si.

Naša blagovna služba in prodajna zastopništva v tujini vam bodo z veseljem pomagala odpremiti oz. dostaviti blago po najhitrejši in cenovno najugodnejši poti.

Our goods service and sales offices abroad will be happy to help you dispatch or deliver goods by the fastest and most competitively priced route. ADRIA CARGO, Ljubljana Jože Pučnik Airport – Cargo Transport, Telephone: + 386 (04) 259 43 40, Fax: + 386 (04) 202 30 30, E-mail: jp.cargo@adria.si

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Panoramski poleti

Panoramic Flights

Letenje je doživetje. Podarite sebi ali svojim najbljižnjim, prijateljem ali znancem nepozabno doživetje. V Adria Airways Letalska Šola d.o.o. so za vas pripravili nekaj najpogostejših in priljubljenih panoramskih poletov tako po Sloveniji, kot tudi v sosednjih državah. Seveda pa lahko panoramski let sestavite tudi po lastnem izboru. Da je polet res prijetno doživetje, je datum letenja v dogovoru s pilotom seveda vedno možno prilagajati glede na vremenske razmere. Panoramski polet se običajno izvaja iz letališča na Brniku, na dobrih 300 metrih višine nad terenom, z enomotornim propelerskim letalom, povprečne hitrosti prbližno 220 km/h. Letenje je možno z enim potnikom (dvosedežno letalo) ali z do tremi potniki (štirisedežno letalo). Več informacij dobite na: www.letileti.si

Flying is an adventure. Give the gift of an unforgettable experience to yourself or your loved ones, friends or acquaintances. Adria Airways Letalska Šola d.o.o. has compiled a selection of the most popular and frequently chosen panoramic flights over Slovenia and the neighbouring countries. Alternatively, you can choose a panoramic flight tailored to your own wishes. To ensure that the flight is a truly enjoyable and memorable experience, the flight date can be changed depending on weather conditions by agreement with the pilot. For panoramic flights, we use a single engine propeller plane that usually takes off from Brnik Airport and flies at an altitude of some 300 m and at an average speed of around 220 kmph. Flights can be conducted with one passenger (two-seat plane) or with up to three passengers (four-seat plane). For more information, please visit: www.letileti.si

Klubi zvestobe - Loyalty Clubs Partnerska kartica Diners Club-Adria

Diners Club Adria Partner Card

Potniki s stalnim prebivališčem v Republiki Sloveniji se lahko odločite za skupno plačilno kartico Diners Cluba in Adrie Airways. Z uporabo partnerske plačilne kartice Diners Club-Adria lahko zbirate milje in koristite nagradne vozovnice in druge ugodnosti v programu Miles & More. Vsak porabljen evro vam bo prinesel 1 miljo. Dogovor, sklenjen med Adrio in klubom Miles & More, prinaša imetnikom partnerske kartice pomembno dodatno ugodnost: milje, zbrane z nakupi s plačilno kartico Diners Club-Adria, ne zapadejo, če ste vsaj tri mesece član. Kartica pa vam odpira vrata in nudi brezplačne storitve tudi v več kot 130 letaliških salonih po vsem svetu, kjer boste lahko v miru počakali na odhod svojega letala, brezplačno prelistali časopis, se osvežili z napitki, telefonirali ali poslali faks. Informacije: telefon 080 13 45, www.dinersclub.si, info@dinersclub.si

Passengers with permanent residence in Slovenia can obtain the joint Diners Club and Adria Airways charge card. By using the Diners Club – Adria Airways charge card, you can collect miles and enjoy bonus tickets and other privileges in the Miles & More programme. Every euro spent will give you one mile. The agreement between Adria and Miles & More brings partner card holders an important additional benefit: miles collected through purchases using the Diners Club- Adria payment card will not lapse if you have been a member for at least three months, you use the card for at least one purchase each month and you settle your account balance on time. At the same time, the card opens the door to free services in more than 130 airport lounges around the world, where you can await your departure in tranquillity, browse through newspapers, enjoy a refreshing drink, make phone calls or send faxes. Information: Telephone: 080 13 45, www.dinersclub.si, info@dinersclub.si

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ADRIA AIRWAYS

Star Alliance Star Alliance PARTNERSTVO

Star Alliance Partnership

Adria Airways je letalski prevoznik z več kot 50-letnimi izkušnjami v čarterskem in rednem prometu. Uspešno sodeluje v evropskih integracijskih tokovih in se partnersko povezuje z drugimi letalskimi prevozniki. Decembra 2004 se je Adria kot regionalna članica pridružila največjemu globalnemu združenju letalskih prevoznikov Star Allianceu, z januarjem 2010 pa je napredovala v polnopravno članico združenja.

Adria Airways has more than 50 years of experience in operating both charter and scheduled flights. We are successfully participating in the process of European integration and have established partnership arrangements with other air carriers. In December 2004 Adria joined Star Alliance, the world’s largest airline alliance, as a regional member and later became a full member in January 2010.

Potnikom zagotavljamo vse prednosti, ki jih prinaša izboljšan dostop do svetovnega omrežja prevoznikov, združenih v Star Allianceu. V povezavi s partnerji vam omogočamo dostop do svetovne mreže poletov 27 letalskih prevoznikov, ki z več kot 21.500 leti dnevno povezujejo 1.356 destinacij v 193 državah.

Our customers now benefit from improved access to the world-wide Star Alliance network. In connection with our partners, we offer access to a global network of flights on 27 airlines, which offer more than 21,500 flights daily serving 1,356 destinations in 193 countries.

Poleg tega so vam na voljo ugodnosti, ki jih ponujajo prevozniki, člani Star Alliancea, kot so: prijava na let do končne destinacije, priznavanje statusa, vstop v letališke salone ter zbiranje in uveljavljanje točk ali milj v okviru programov za pogoste potnike. Za številne destinacije po svetu so vam na voljo potovanja po ugodnejših cenah in posebna ponudba Star Alliancea Round the World – potovanje okoli sveta. Za več informacij smo vam na voljo na naših prodajnih mestih.

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Moreover, our passengers enjoy customer benefits offered by Star Alliance member carriers, such as through check-in, status recognition, lounge access, frequent-flyer accrual and redemption. Reduced fares are available for numerous destinations throughout the world, along with the Star Alliance Round-the-World special offer. We will be glad to provide details at any Adria sales outlet.

Zbirajte in izkoristite milje na eni sami kartici pri vseh letalskih družbah, članicah združenja Star Alliance

Earn and spend miles on just one card across all Star Alliance member airlines.

Združenje Star Alliance s svojo obsežno mrežo poletov omogoča potnikom udobno, hitro in enostavno potovalno izkušnjo po vsem svetu.

The Star Alliance network is the world’s most comprehensive airline alliance, ensuring a smoother travel experience with worldwide reach and greater choice.

Pogosti potniki lahko sedaj zbirajo milje pri vseh 27 članicah na eni sami članski kartici. Izkoristijo jih lahko tako, da na katerokoli od 1356 destinacij vzamejo s seboj kogarkoli od svojih družinskih članov.

Member airline frequent flyers can now earn miles across the network’s 27 member airlines, all on one card. And spend them taking their families with them to any of our 1356 destinations worldwide.

Za več informacij o mreži Star Alliance in ostalih ugodnostih, ki vam jih ta ponuja, obiščite spletno stran www.staralliance.com

To find out more about the Star Alliance network and other benefits, visit staralliance.com

To si zaslužite.

You’ve earned it.


MILES & MORE Dobrodošli v Miles & More Razlog več, da poletite z Adrio Airways

Registration

Adria Airways nudi svojim pogostim potnikom program Miles & More in jim s tem omogoča pestrost zbiranja in uporabljanja milj v celotni mreži poletov članic zveze Star Alliance. Sem spadajo tudi vse redne proge Adrie Airways.

You can collect miles within the entire Star Alliance network. You can also collect additional miles through hotel stays, car rental, telephone calls, purchases at selected shops and using your credit cards. The complete list of all Miles & More partners can be found on www.miles-and-more.com in »Earn miles« section.

Prijava Prijavite se lahko s prijavnico, ki jo dobite na vseh prodajnih mestih in v letalih Adrie Airways, ali pa to storite na naslovu www.adria.si na naših spletnih straneh.

Zbiranje milj Milje lahko zbirate na celotni mreži poletov članic zveze Star Alliance. Dodatne milje lahko zbirate z bivanjem v hotelih, najemom vozil, telefoniranjem, nakupi v določenih trgovinah in z uporabo kreditnih kartic. Podroben seznam vseh partnerjev, ki vas nagrajujejo v okviru Miles & More programa najdete na www.miles-and-more.com v rubriki »Earn miles«. Zbrane milje so veljavne tri leta. Člani Miles & More v Sloveniji lahko pridobijo nagradne milje tudi s partnersko plačilno kartico Diners Club-Adria. Vsak nakup v vrednosti 1 EUR vam prinese eno miljo. Čas veljavnosti zbranih milj je neomejen, če plačilno kartico uporabljate najmanj 3 mesece, opravite z njo vsak mesec vsaj en nakup in račune poravnate v roku.

Koriščenje milj Zbrane milje lahko porabite za številne nagrade: nagradne vozovnice na progah članic Star Alliancea, potovanje v višjem razredu, počitniška potovanja, nakup različnih artiklov.

You can join the programme by filling in the registration form available at all sales offices and on board Adria Airways aircraft, or by registering online at our website, www.adria.si.

Earning miles

Miles & More members in Slovenia can also receive award miles with the partner Diners Club-Adria credit card. Every euro charged earns you 1 mile. Miles collected through purchases using the Diners Club-Adria payment card will not lapse if you have been a member for at least three months, you use the card for at least one purchase each month and you settle your account balance on time.

Spending miles You can use the miles you have accumulated for various benefits: award tickets on Star Alliance member routes, upgrades to business class, holiday travel and various purchases.

Membership cards You become a member as soon as you join. Accumulating the required number of status miles in a calendar year leads to higher levels of membership: silver member or Frequent Traveller, gold member or Senator and HON Circle Member. A higher level of membership offers you special benefits, such as priority on waiting lists, excess baggage allowance, airport lounge access and so on. Miles are valid for three years. Always have your membership card on hand, because you’ll need it to register miles, claim benefits and request awards. General Terms and Conditions of the Miles & More programme can be found on www.miles-and-more.com.

Članske kartice

Welcome aboard Adria Airways, a Star Alliance member!

Z včlanitvijo postanete član programa in imetnik osnovne kartice. Doseženo število zahtevanih statusnih milj, zbranih v koledarskem letu, zagotavlja višje nivoje članstva, kot so: srebrni član ali Frequent Traveller, zlati član ali Senator in HON Circle Member. Višji nivo članstva vam prinese posebne ugodnosti. Te so prednost na čakalnih listah, prevoz večje količine prtljage, vstop v oslovne salone idr. Člansko kartico imejte vedno pri roki, potrebujete jo za beleženje milj, uveljavljanje ugodnosti in naročanje nagrad. Splošna pravila in pogoji programa Miles & More so objavljeni na www.miles-and-more.com.

For information on miles, latest news about programme and to order award tickets or other benefits, call the Miles & More call centre at +386 40 747 440. You’ll be asked for your membership number and PIN code. We’ll be happy to take your calls in Slovene from 8 am to 6 pm. Service is also available in English and German outside these hours.

Dobrodošli na poletih Adrie Airways, članice združenja Star Alliance! V klicnem centru Miles & More na tel. št. (0)40 747 440 smo vam na voljo za posredovanje informacije o zbranih miljah, o novostih v klubu in za naročila nagradnih vozovnic ter drugih nagrad. Navesti morate člansko številko in PIN kodo. V delovnem času od 8. do 18. ure vam bodo informacije na voljo v slovenskem jeziku, kasneje v angleškem ali nemškem.

wELCOME TO Miles & More One more reason for flying Adria Airways Adria Airways offers its frequent flyers the chance to join the Miles & More programme, which makes available a variety of ways to collect and use miles on the entire flight network of Star Alliance members. All Adria Airways scheduled services are included in this network.

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ADRIA AIRWAYS

Prodaja vozovnic in rezervacije - Ticket offices and booking Adria Airways Zgornji Brnik 130h 4210 Brnik - Aerodrom

Klicni center / call centre: tel: +386 (0)1 36 91 010, 080 13 00, FAX: +386 (0)4 25 94 573 E-mail: booking@adria.si

Poslovalnice / Sales offices: Letališče Jožeta Pučnika LJUBLJANA LJUBLJANA Jože Pučnik Airport Adria Airways Sales Office Tel.: +386 (0)4 25 94 245 Fax: +386 (0)4 23 63 461 E-mail: adr.prodaja@adria.si

AMSTERDAM Adria Airways Tel.: +31 20 625 11 22 Fax: +32 2 753 23 37 Airport Ticketing Desk Amsterdam Schiphol Airport Aviapartner Terminal 2 Tel.: +31 20 79 52 600 Fax: +31 20 79 52 601 E-mail: adr.amsairport@adria.si

BARCELONA Adria Airways, General Sales Agent Kompas Spain C/ Paris, 162-164 Entlo 2a 08036 Barcelona Tel.: + 34 93 246 67 77 Fax: +34 93 245 41 88 E-mail: adr.barcelona@adria.si

BELGRADE Adria Airways, General Sales Agent OKI AIR INTERNATIONAL Airport “Nikola Tesla” 11180 Belgrade 59 Tel/Fax: +381 11 2286457, 2286458, 2097457 E-mail: okiairbeg@oki.me, adr.belgrade@adria.si

BRUSSELS Adria Airways Brussels Airport – Box 4 1930 Zaventem Tel.: +32 (0)2 75 32 336 Fax: +32 (0)2 75 32 337 E-mail: adr.brussels@adria.si Adria Airways Ticket Desk Flightcare row 5 Airport Zaventem / Brussels Tel.: +32 (0)2 75 32 335

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COPENHAGEN Adria Airways, General Sales Agent A CVITAN AB Tings Gatan 2 256 56 Helsingborg, SWEDEN Tel.: +46 (0)42 28 47 78 Fax: +46 (0)42 14 47 78 Mobil: +46 708 28 47 78 E-mail: adr.copenhagen@adria.si a.cvitan@adria-airways.se vozovnice: info@adria-airways.dk Adria Airways Airport Ticket Desk Copenhagen Airport Terminal 2, Floor 2, Office 230 2770 Kastrup, Denmark Tel. & Fax: +45 (0)32 51 59 59 Mobil: +46 708 28 47 78 E-mail: adr.copenhagen@adria.si

FRANKFURT Adria Airways Frankfurt Airport Terminal 1, Building 201 Room 201. 4043/4044 P.O.Box 039, 60549 Frankfurt am Main Tel.: +49 (0)69 269 56 720, 269 56 721 Fax: +49 (0)69 269 56 730 E-mail: adr.frankfurt@adria.si Adria Airways Airport Ticket Desk Frankfurt Airport, Terminal 1, Hall B Sales Desk 307 P.O.Box 039, 60549 Frankfurt am Main Tel. +49 (0)69 269 56 722

ISTANBUL Adria Airways, General Sales Agent ACM Halaskargazi Mah. Valikonağı Cad. No: 5 34371, Nişantaşı Istanbul / TURKEY Tel +90 212 232 01 10 Fax +90 212 232 01 44 Mobi +90 532 283 79 08 Email: salesagent.ist@adria.si

Adria Airways Airport Ticket Desk Atatürk International Airport, Departure Level, IDL 38129 Yesilkoy – Istanbul / TURKEY Tel: +90 212 465 55 15 Fax: +90 212 465 55 16 Mob: +90 0530 938 43 20 E-mail: adr.istanbul@adria.si

MOSCOW Adria Airways Derbenevskaja 4 115 114 Moscow Tel.: +7 495 727 08 85, 727 08 87 Fax: +7 495 727 08 88 E-mail: adr.moscow@adria.si Adria Airways Sheremetyevo Airport Ticket office Bohemia 2nd floor of terminal F Ticketing +7 903 5613645, e-mail: apt-svo@mail.ru, fax +7 495 578 8197 Supervisor on duty +7 916 267 2395, e-mail: svokkjp@adria.si

MUNICH Prosimo, obrnite se na predstavništvo v Frankfurtu. Please contact our office in Frankfurt.

PODGORICA Adria Airways, General Sales Agent Oki Air Montenegro Ivana Vujoševića 46 81000 Podgorica Tel. & Fax: +382 20 201 201, 201 202, 241 154 Mobil: +382 67 24 11 54 E-mail: adr.podgorica@adria.si, okiair@oki.me Adria Airways Ticket Office Podgorica Airport OKI AIR Montenegro Tel. & Fax: +382 20 653074 Mobil: +382 67 24 11 54 E-mail: adr.podgorica@adria.si

PRISTINA Adria Airways Rr. Qamil Hoxha nr.12 Tel: +381 38 246746 Fax: +381 38 246 747 Mob: + 377 44 165 084 E-mail : adr.pristina@adria.si Adria Airways Airport Ticket Desk Tel.: +381 (0) 38 548 437 Fax: +381 (0) 38 548 437 Mobile: +377 44 501 241

SARAJEVO Adria Airways, General Sales Agent Ferhadija 23 71000 Sarajevo Tel.: +387 (0)33 23 21 25, 23 21 26 Fax: +387 (0)33 23 36 92 E-mail: adr.sarajevo@adria.si Adria Airways Airport Ticket Desk Sarajevo International Airport Tel. & Fax: +387 33 464 331

SKOPJE Adria Airways, General Sales Agent AAM dooel Ulica Dame Gruev, Gradski Zid, blok 4/8 1000 Skopje Tel.: +389 (0)2 31 17 009, 32 29 975 Fax: +389 (0)2 31 65 531 E-mail: adr.skopje@adria.si Adria Airways Airport Ticket Office Skopje Airport Tel. +389 (0)2 25 50 133

TEL AVIV Adria Airways, General Sales Agent MIRUS SERVICES Ltd EL AL BUILDING 32 Ben Yehuda Street 8th Floor, Room 822 Tel Aviv 63432 Tel.: +972 (0)3 52 23 161 Fax: +972 (0)3 52 40 895

Adria Airways Ticket Desk Ben Gurion Airport Laufer Aviation Ltd. Tel.: +972 (0)3 97 74 300 Fax: +972 (0)3 97 12 022

TIRANA Adria Airways, General Sales Agent Europian Trade Center Street Bajram Curi 19 Town Office Tel.: +355 4 227 4666 Tel. & Fax: +355 4 227 2666 Mobil Off.: +355 6 94076614 Airport Tel. & Fax: +355 4 238 1911 Mobil in Rinas Apt.: +355 6 94076611 E-mail: adr.tirana@adria.si

VERONA Adria Airways, Ticketing Office AIRPORT VALERIO CATULLO VERONA Departure Area Tel.: +390 45 8619 006 Fax.: +390 45 8095 711 e-mail: ticket@aeroportoverona.it

VIENNA Adria Airways, General Sales Agent Fligt Directors Lufttransportvermittlung Ges.m.b.H A-1300 Vienna Airport Tel.: +43 (1) 879 8705 Fax: +43 (1) 876 045311 E-mail: pia.karlovic@adria.si p.karlovic@flightdirectors.at

ZÜRICH Adria Airways Loewenstrasse 54/II. 8001 Zürich Tel.: +41 (0)44 212 63 93 Fax: +41 (0)44 212 52 66 E-mail: adr.zurich@adria.si Adria Airways Airport Ticket Office Zürich Airport Terminal B-2-521 Tel.: +41 (0)43 81 64 437


flyljubljana Nagrajujemo vašo zvestobo.

Program flyljubljana omogoča udobnejša in ugodnejša potovanja z Letališča Jožeta Pučnika Ljubljana.     

Brezplačno članstvo Ugodnejši letališki nakupi Udobnejša in ugodnejša letalska potovanja Posebne ponudbe izbranih partnerjev Nepozabna doživetja

Pridružite se nam! Izpolnite spletno pristopnico na www.flyljubljana.si ali s telefonom poskenirajte kodo. Pristopnice so na voljo tudi na okencih za prijavo na let v odhodni avli na letališču.


Adria Airways In-Flight Magazine October, November 2012