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Adria Airways In-flight Magazine Vaš brezplačni izvod - junij, julij | Your personal copy - June, July 2012

Destinacija Dunaj Destination vienna

Robert waltl Veliko srce mini teatra /The Big Heart of Mini Teater Križevniška četrt / Križevniška quarter destinacija: klet / destination: basement olimpijec marko račič / Olympic Athlete Marko račič

Guiseppe tartini / Guiseppe tartini Razbiti santorinski stereotipi / Breaking the Santorini Stereotypes reka in šaman / River and Shaman Pot nekega oreščka / The Journey of a Simple Nut

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PISMO / LETTER Drage potnice in cenjeni potniki! Veseli me, da vas lahko v imenu Adrie Airways pozdravim na našem letalu. V Adrii se zavedamo, da je za uspešno dolgoročno poslovanje družbe najpomembnejša kakovostno opravljena storitev. Prizadevamo si, da bi vsak potnik že ob prihodu na letalo zaznal naše glavne vrednote – skrb za varnost ter prijaznost in udobje. Naš trud za potnike je še večji v manj ugodnih gospodarskih razmerah, ko moramo izrabiti prav vse notranje in zunanje sile, da svojim potnikom zagotovimo kakovostno ponudbo. Pri tem na nekatere dejavnike lahko vplivamo, na druge ne moremo. Z letom 2012 smo se na podlagi smernic Evropske unije vključili v sistem trgovanja z emisijami toplogrednih plinov, kar poleg visoke cene kerozina posredno vpliva na ceno letalskih vozovnic. Na to žal ne moremo vplivati, vendar naša prodajna služba nenehno išče nove poti, kako potnikom v obliki najrazličnejših prodajnih akcij omogočiti cenovno ugodna potovanja. Dobrih poslovnih odnosov pa ne gradimo samo s potniki, ampak tudi z ostalimi partnerji – tako s predstavniki posameznih letalskih družb kot tudi letališč, kjer pristajajo naša letala. Adria, ki je redna članica mednarodnega združenja letalskih prevoznikov Star Alliance in je skupaj z ostalimi članicami maja praznovala 15-letnico ustanovitve združenja, ima že tradicionalno dobre povezave z družbami združenja. Poleg tega smo se začeli dogovarjati še o sodelovanju na komercialnem področju z letalskimi prevozniki balkanske regije. Želimo si, da bi vsa naša poslovna prizadevanja pripomogla k temu, da bi čim več krajev postalo za vas še lažje dostopnih. Tako kot prevozniki so tudi letališča naši zvesti partnerji. V tokratni izdaji In-Flight Magazina lahko preberete, kako smo s posebnim dogodkom obeležili dvajseti jubilej linije Ljubljana–Zuerich, ko sta Adrii v čast poletela tudi švicarska vojaška lovca F/A-18C Hornet. S ponosom dodajamo, da smo druga tuja letalska družba na svetu, ki ji je bila posvečena tolikšna pozornost. V kolikor se še niste odločili, kam boste šli letos na dopust, vam to poletje pripravljamo široko izbiro zanimivih počitniških ciljev. Z letom na letalih Adrie boste varno, hitro in udobno prispeli do več kot 19 evropskih mest in do številnih počitniških krajev v Sredozemlju, kjer vas čaka obilo prijetnih doživetij. Prav na vseh rednih linijah za vas pripravljamo vrsto ugodnih ponudb, ki so vam na voljo na naših spletnih straneh www.adria.si. Hvala vam za zaupanje in prijeten let! Klemen Boštjančič, predsednik uprave

Fotografija: Irena Herak

Dear passengers, Please allow me to welcome you onboard this aircraft on behalf of Adria Airways. Here at Adria we understand that providing quality services is of the utmost importance for the longterm success of a company’s business operations. We strive to make each and every passenger, from the moment they step on the plane, aware of our main values – assurance of safety, friendliness and comfort. Our care for passengers is even greater in less favourable economic circumstances, when all possible internal and external efforts have to be made in order to provide quality to our passengers. We have influence over some of the factors in these matters, but not over all of them. In keeping with EU guidelines, we have joined the Emissions Trading System in 2012; in addition to the high price of kerosene, this also has an indirect effect on the price of airline tickets. This is unfortunately something we have no control over; however, our sales department is constantly seeking new ways of providing our passengers with low-cost travel options in the form of special offers. Not only do we build good business relationships with our passengers, but also our partners – representatives of individual airlines, and the airports where our aircraft land. As a full member of Star Alliance, Adria joined the other members in celebrating the 15th anniversary of the global airline network in May. We are known for having traditionally good connections with other Star Alliance airlines. We have also initiated talks on cooperation in the

commercial field with airlines in the Balkan region. It is our hope that our business efforts will contribute to making as many destinations as possible even more accessible to you. Along with the airlines, the airports are also our loyal partners. In this issue of In-Flight Magazine, you can read about how we marked the 20th anniversary of the Ljubljana-Zurich route with a special event that saw two Swiss F/A18C Hornet fighter jets fly in honour of Adria. We can proudly say that we are the second foreign airline in the world to have been granted this privilege. If you have not yet decided where to go on vacation this year, we are preparing a wide choice of interesting summer destinations for you to consider. Safe, fast and comfortable – flying aboard an Adria aircraft will take you to more than 19 European cities and numerous holiday resorts in the Mediterranean, where you can enjoy countless pleasant experiences. We have a number of offers on every single regular route, which are available on our website www.adria.si. We thank you for your trust and wish you a pleasant flight. Klemen Boštjančič, President of the Management Board & CEO

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Adria Airways In-Flight Magazine Revija Adria Airways In-Flight Magazine je namenjena potnikom na poletih z Adrio Airways. Adria In-flight Magazine is complimentary on Adria Airways flights. Izdajatelj/Publisher: Adria Airways, Slovenski letalski prevoznik, d.d. Adria Airways, The Airline of Slovenia Zgornji Brnik 130h, 4210 Brnik – Aerodrom Uredništvo / Editorial: Barbara Mihevc Bukovec Tel. / Phone + 386 4 259 4541 E- mail: barbara.bukovec@adria.si Oglaševanje / Advertising: Alenka Dvoršak Tel. / Phone + 386 4 259 4526 E- mail: alenka.dvorsak@adria.si SLO

ENG

Oblikovanje in AD / Design and AD: IDEARNA d.o.o. Prevod / Translated by: Amidas Alkemist, prevajalske storitve d.o.o. Lektorica/ Proofreader: Vera Samohod Fotoliti / Lithography: SET, d.o.o. Tisk / Printed by: Korotan – Ljubljana, d.o.o. ISSN 1318-0789

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54 Naslovnica/Cover: Getty Images

Mnenja, izražena v tej publikaciji, so zgolj mnenja avtorjev ali intervjuvancev in ne odsevajo nujno stališč Adrie Airways. Razmnoževanje brez pisnega dovoljenja je prepovedano. Izdajatelj ne prevzema nikakršne odgovornosti za nenaročeno gradivo. The opinions expressed in this publication are those of the authors or persons interviewed only and do not necessarily reflect the views of Adria Airways. Reproduction without written permission is prohibited. The publisher accepts no responsibility for unsolicited material. Brezplačen izvod / Your personal copy

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Vsebina Contents 36.

adrijin potnik / ADRIA PASSENGER

Robert Waltl >>

direktor in umetniški vodja Mini teatra managing and Artistic Director of Mini teater

74. olimpijec marko račič legenda Olympic Athlete and Legend Marko Račič

matjaž potokar miha fras

42. 48. 54. 62.

DESTINACIJA dunaj DESTINATION vienna Miško kranjec

WACHAU, prestolnica romantike

Wachau, the Home of Romance saša suhadolnik

Ljubljana

VELIKO SRCE MINI TEATRA

The Big Heart of Mini Teater

Marjan žiberna

Igor Lapajne

80. REka in šaman: Vrnitev na začetek

River and Shaman: A Return to the Beginning

marko frelih Charles Brewer Carías, Rafael Santana, Arhiv Fundacije Cisneros

86. violinist giuseppe tartini Ponos Pirana The Violinist Giuseppe Tartini The Pride of Piran/Pirano

metoda kokole

igor lapajne

92. Razbiti santorinski stereotipi

matjaž potokar miha fras

V iskanju »Atlantide« Breaking the Santorini Stereotypes On the Search for “Atlantis” Jože balas

Ljubljanske znamenitosti –

Križevniška četrt

The Sights of Ljubljana – Križevniška Quarter matjaž potokar miha fras

68. destinacija: klet

100. Pot nekega oreščka Pravična trgovina v Burkini Faso The Journey of a Simple Nut Fair Trade in Burkina Faso

Noemie de pas tit brecelj

DESTINATION: BASEMENT

Maja cimerman matej sitar

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Novosti - news poletni vozni red 25. marca je stopil v veljavo poletni vozni red. Adria Airways povezuje slovensko prestolnico z več kot 170 rednimi leti tedensko z 18 destinacijami. Adrijina letala vas popeljejo v Amsterdam, Barcelono, Beograd, Bruselj, Carigrad, na Dunaj, v Frankfurt, København, London, Manchester, Moskvo, Muenchen, Podgorico, Prištino, Sarajevo, Skopje, Zuerich in v Tirano. Kot članica združenja letalskih prevoznikov Star Alliance omogoča Adria Airways zelo dobre in cenovno ugodne povezave z destinacijami po vsem svetu. Vsakodnevno opravi združenje Star Alliance kar 20.500 letov na 1.293 letališč v 190 državah. V poletni sezoni, ki jih opravlja Adria Airways v sodelovanju s turističnimi agencijami, povezuje s čarterskimi leti Ljubljano s številnimi počitniškimi destinacijami, predvsem v Sredozemlju. Iz Ljubljane leti tedensko na naslednja letališča: v Grčijo v Heraklion, na Rodos, Kos, Santorini, Karpatos, Kefalonijo, Zakintos, Skiatos, Samos, Hios, Lezbos, Lefkas/Preveza in v Kavalo. Leti tudi na Menorco in v Palmo de Mallorco v Španiji, na Malto in v Antalyo v Turčiji. Sharm el Sheikh in Hurgada v Egiptu sta edini čarterski destinaciji, kamor leti slovenski letalski prevoznik celo leto. Redni poleti med Prištino in nemškima mestoma Frankfurt in Muenchen so v Adrijinem voznem redu že od decembra 2010, od začetka letošnjega leta dalje pa Adrijina letala povezujejo Prištino tudi z italijansko Verono.

Summer Flight Schedule

The 2012 summer flight schedule applies as of 25 March. Adria Airways operates over 170 scheduled flights every week, linking the Slovenian capital to 18 destinations. Adria aeroplanes will fly you to Amsterdam, Barcelona, Belgrade, Brussels, Copenhagen, Frankfurt, Istanbul, London, Manchester, Moscow, Munich, Podgorica, Pristina, Sarajevo, Skopje, Tirana, Vienna and Zurich. As a member of Star Alliance, the association of air carriers, Adria Airways is able to offer excellent connections to destinations around the world at affordable prices. Star Alliance members operate 20,500 flights daily to 1,293 airports in 190 countries. During the summer season, Adria Airways works with travel agencies to offer chartered flights connecting Ljubljana to a number of holiday destinations, particularly those in the Mediterranean. Adria operates weekly flights to these airports in Greece: Heraklion, Rodos, Kos, Santorini, Karpathos, Kefalonia, Zakynthos, Skiathos, Samos, Chios, Lesbos, Lefkas/Preveza and Kavala. Chartered flights to Menorca and Palma de Mallorca in Spain, to Malta and to Antalya in Turkey are also available. Sharm el Sheikh and Hurgada in Egypt are the only two destinations served by Adria Airways chartered flights all year round. Scheduled Pristina-Frankfurt and Pristina-Munich flights have been part of the Adria schedule since December 2010; as of the beginning of this year, the airline also operates scheduled flights between Pristina and Verona in Italy.

sodelovanju z arhitekturnim birojem Hišeriše arhitektura. Z rešitvijo, ki so jo predlagali, so želeli potnikom vrniti izgubljeni čas letališke poti v obliki prijetne izkušnje, ki se v interjerju odraža v kombinaciji udobja dnevne sobe in sodobne pisarne v malem.

Business Lounge

Fotografija: Marko Vavpotič

Poslovni salon – izboljšana storitev za potnike, ki potujejo v poslovnem razredu Adrijini potniki so na ljubljanskem letališču po novem deležni več udobja, saj začenjajo odslej svoja potovanja v prenovljenem in razširjenem poslovnem salonu. Aerodrom Ljubljana se je odločil za prenovo, saj želi dvigniti zavedanje, da je storitveno podjetje, kjer je skrb za potnike na prvem mestu. Ker je to tudi naše vodilo že vrsto let, nam je v veliko zadovoljstvo, da se začne za potnika poslovnega razreda celovito potovanje z Adrio Airways tako prijetno. Prenovljeni interjer poslovnega salona na Letališču Jožeta Pučnika Ljubljana je bil zasnovan v Gorenje design studiu v

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– Improved Service for Business Class Passengers The Adria business class passengers can enjoy more comfort in the renovated and enlarged business lounge at the Ljubljana airport as they await their flight. Aerodrom Ljubljana organised the renovation in order to raise awareness of the company as a service oriented company that always puts passengers first. Since this has also been our guiding principle for many years, it is a great pleasure to know that business class passengers can now start their journey with Adria Airways in such a comfortable manner. The renovated interior of the business lounge at the Jože Pučnik Airport Ljubljana was designed by the Gorenje design studio in collaboration with the architecture bureau Hišeriše arhitektura. Their proposed solution was intended to return passengers to a lost time of airline travel as an enjoyable experience, reflected in the interior designed as a combination of a comfortable living room and modern office.

Letalski prevozniki v tranziciji, Istanbul 19. in 20. aprila je v Istanbulu potekal vrh »Letalski prevozniki v tranziciji« (Airlines in Transition), ki so se ga udeležili vodilni predstavniki letalskih družb s celega sveta. Dogodek je organiziralo združenje CAPA – Centre for Aviation s sedežem v Sydneyu. G. Klemen Boštjančič, predsednik uprave Adrie Airways, je sodeloval kot vabljeni govorec pri okrogli mizi na temo o prihodnosti letalske industrije, ki se sooča s strukturno nestabilnostjo in spremembami (The Future Shape of an Industry Undergoing Structural Instability and Change). Med drugim so govorili o vplivu nizkostroškovnih letalskih prevoznikov na profitabilnost mrežnih letalskih prevoznikov ter vplivu lastniških struktur na industrijo.

Airlines in Transition, Istanbul The Airlines in Transition summit was held in Istanbul on 19 and 20 April, attended by key representatives of the world’s air carriers. The event was organised by CAPA – Centre for Aviation, based in Sydney. Adria Airways CEO Klemen Boštjančič attended the summit as the guest speaker at a round table discussion entitled “The Future Shape of an Industry Undergoing Structural Instability and Change”. The subjects of discussion included the influence of low-cost airlines on the profitability of network airlines and the effect of ownership structures on the industry. The key representatives also touched on other current issues such as the future of airline associations and non-member airlines, the evolution of the low-cost airline model and opportunities for generating profit.


AKTUALNO - LATEST OFFERS Ujemi ugoden polet ...

Adria Airways Special Offers!

Na vseh Adrijinih rednih linijah imamo ugodne ponudbe po načelu »Kupi prej, potuj ceneje«. Da bi našo ponudbo še bolj približali vašim potrebam, imamo na voljo znižane cene potovanj tudi med tednom.

Special offers are available on all of Adria’s scheduled services on a “buy early, fly for less” basis. To make our services even more attractive, reduced fares are available for travel during the week.

Adrijine E-novice

Adria E-news

Vabimo vas, da obiščete naše spletne strani www.adria.si in se prijavite na Adrijine E-novice. S tem boste enkrat mesečno obveščeni o naših novostih in posebnih ponudbah. E-novice bodo za vas vir dragocenih informacij in idej pri načrtovanju potovanja ali počitnic.

Why not visit our website www.adria.si and subscribe to Adria’s E-news service? Once a month you will receive updates on new services and special offers – straight to your inbox! This means that E-news will be a valuable source of information and ideas when you are planning a journey or holiday.

Naj bo obveščenost vaša prednost!

Let information be your advantage!

LAST MINUTE ponudba Adrie Airways

Adria Airways LAST MINUTE Offers

Ali vedno prelistate dnevno časopisje? Še posebej bodite pozorni med prebiranjem Dela in Nedela! Posebna koda, vpeta v vsebino časnikov, vam na spletni strani www.adria.si omogoča izredno ugoden nakup vozovnice za določeno destinacijo. Akcijska cena za posamezen let traja tri dni, oglaševane destinacije pa se dnevno spreminjajo.

Do you always look through the daily newspapers? From now on, pay special attention when you read Delo and Nedelo! There is a special code hidden in the newspaper content that will allow you to book tickets for a particular destination at a lower price on www.adria.si. The special price for an individual flight is valid for three days and the destinations advertised change daily.

V London že za 119 EUR

Fly to London for only €119

119 EUR je cena za povratno letalsko vozovnico na direktnih letih Adrie Airways z že vključenimi pristojbinami in brez stroška rezervacije preko http://www.adria.si/. Povračila za že kupljeno vozovnico ni, sprememba rezervacije pa je možna z doplačilom 60 EUR. Akcija velja do zapolnitve prostih mest.

For just €119, you can buy a return ticket for direct Adria Airways flights at http://www.adria.si/. With the exception of booking fees, all taxes are included in the price. Tickets cannot be refunded. Bookings can be changed subject to a €60 surcharge. The offer is valid until supplies last.

© Corbis/IPAK Images

Pridružite se nam na Facebooku Join us on Facebook http://www.facebook.com/AdriaAirways

Ljubljana beograd od from

158 EUR

Ljubljana podgorica od from

189 EUR

SARAJEVO LJUBLJANA frankfurt od from

199 EUR

Sledite nam na Twitterju Follow us on Twitter http://twitter.com/adria_airways

PRISTINA ljubljana -

COPENHAGEN od from

249 EUR

Vse navedene cene veljajo za povratna potovanja na Adrijinih poletih in vključujejo vse ostale dajatve razen stroška rezervacije. Število ponujenih sedežev po tej ceni je omejeno. Ponudba velja v času trajanja veljavnosti In-flight Magazina. The prices listed above are for Adria Airways return flights and include all taxes and fees except booking fees. There is a limited number of seats avaliable at this price; the offer is valid for the time the In-Flight Magazine is valid or longer.

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Fructal d.d., Tovarniška cesta 7, 5270 Ajdovščina

SADNA OSVE O N ŽIT E D EV LE ruc www.f tal.si


ADRIA AIRWAYS

Vse, kar vas zanima o letalstvu V tokratni številki odgovarja kapitan Iztok Kavčič na zanimivo vprašanje, kaj se zgodi z letalom, če vanj med letom udari strela. Spoštovani potniki, verjetno se še spomnite, kako neprijetne so se nam zdele nevihte, ko smo bili še otroci. Otroški strah je bil še večji, ko sta nevihtne oblake spremljala strela in grom. Z odraščanjem smo se na strelo, ta naravni pojav, postopoma navajali in ga sprejeli takega, kot je, čeprav ga v celoti še nismo razumeli. Ob nevihtah z grmenjem in strelami so nas starši mirili z besedami, da je strela zelo daleč. Šteli smo sekunde med bliskom, ki jo je ustvarila strela, in samim gromom, saj je vsaka sekunda med udarom strele in gromom pomenila, kar seveda velja še danes, da je nevihta oddaljena od nas približno 300 metrov . Z vsako sekundo je bila nevarnost bolj oddaljena od nas. Fotografija: Rok Belič

Glede razlage in razumevanja pojava strele si tudi znanstveniki niso edini. Obstaja več teorij, ki pa so laiku precej nerazumljive. Znano je, da pride pri pojavu strele do izenačevanja električne napetosti med oblakom in zemljo, lahko pa tudi med samimi oblaki. Povedano nekoliko poenostavljeno, se v nevihtnem oblaku zaradi gibanj zračnih plasti, vodnih kapljic in drobnih delcev ustvarijo električne napetostne razlike. Ko se ustvarijo pogoji – pride namreč do velikih razlik v napetosti in prevodnost zraka postane zadovoljiva –, se napetost izenači v obliki strele. Z nevihtnimi oblaki in strelami se srečujemo tudi v letalstvu. Nevihtni oblaki povzročajo turbulenco, točo in strele. Da bi se izognili nevihtnim oblakom, so letala opremljena z vremenskimi radarji, ki nam nazorno pokažejo obliko, velikost in pozicijo teh oblakov. Sama velikost oziroma oblika nevihtnega oblaka sicer ni pogoj za udar strele, ampak, kot že omenjeno, je pogoj določena razlika v električni napetosti v oblaku. Letalo ustvari v letu med oblakom in zemljo oziroma med samimi oblaki zaradi svoje prevodne kovinske konstrukcije

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pogoje za izenačevanje napetostne razlike, kar pa je vzrok, da pride občasno do udara strele tudi v letalo. Podobno kot avto je tudi letalo Faradayeva kletka, torej omejen prostor, ki razločuje električno polje. Pri udaru strele v letalo so potniki popolnoma varni. Seveda pa je ta naravni pojav zelo neprijeten za potnike zaradi samega poka in bliska, kar je še posebej opazno pri nočnih letih. Letalo po udaru strele neovirano nadaljuje let. Kljub temu da so konstrukcija letala in elektronske naprave primerno testirane in zaščitene v primeru takšnih okoliščin, letalo po vsakem zabeleženem udaru strele pregleda po pristanku tehnična ekipa. Včasih se zgodi, da je vstop oziroma izstop strele viden kot površinska ožganina, na konstrukciji letala pa ni posledic. Sam sem v svoji letalski karieri že trikrat doživel udar strele med letom, vsakič brez posebnosti, če izključim, da sta bila pok in blisk tudi zame tisti trenutek neprijetno presenečenje. Z letalom in elektronskimi napravami se ni zgodilo nič nenavadnega; vselej smo nadaljevali let in ga varno zaključili z običajnim pristankom. Dragi potniki, kljub temu da smo že pošteno zakorakali v čas poletnih vročinskih neviht, ki jih običajno spremljajo tudi udarci strele, so skrbi popolnoma odveč, saj se posadka s pomočjo inštrumentov, ki so ji na voljo, nevihtnim oblakom izogiba, sama oblika letala pa poskrbi za to, da se vam ne bo prav nič zgodilo. Morda bo ostala v nizu lepih in vznemirljivih doživetij z vaših počitnic le zanimiva zgodba. Prijetno poletje vam želim! Kaj pa vas zanima o letalstvu? Vaša vprašanja pričakujemo na elektronskem naslovu inflightmagazine@adria.si.


Everything You Wanted to Know About Aviation In this issue, Captain Iztok KavÄ?iÄ? answers the interesting question of what happens to an aeroplane if it is struck by lightning mid-flight. Dear passengers, You probably still remember how anxious we were as children when the weather was stormy. The fear was even worse when storm clouds brought with them thunder and lightning. As we got older, we gradually got used to these natural phenomena and accepted them for what they are, even though we still did not understand them fully. During thunderstorms, our parents would try to reassure us by explaining that the lightning bolts are very far away. We would count the seconds between each bolt of lightning and rumble of thunder; with every second that passed between the sight of lightning and the sound of thunder, another 300m were added to the distance between us and the storm. Obviously, this rule still holds today. With every second that passed, the danger was further away from us. When it comes to explaining and understanding the phenomenon of lightning, even scientists have not

yet reached a unanimous conclusion. There are several competing theories, none of which are entirely comprehensible to a layperson. What we do know is that when lightning occurs, there is an equalisation of voltage between the cloud and the ground or just between several clouds. Simply put, the movement of air layers, water drops and tiny particles that occurs inside a storm cloud creates changes in voltage. In the right conditions, when there is a large enough discrepancy in voltage and the air reaches a sufficient level of conductivity, the voltage equalises in the form of lightning. Storm clouds and lightning bolts are something we also encounter in aviation. Storm clouds cause turbulence, hail and lightning. In order to avoid storm clouds, every aeroplane is equipped with weather radar that clearly shows the shape, size and position of such clouds. The size and shape of a storm cloud does not affect the likelihood of a lightning strike; what matters is the discrepancy in voltage inside the cloud. Flying between a cloud and the ground or between clouds, the conductive metal construction of an aeroplane creates the right conditions for voltage equalisation, which is the reason why lighting sometimes strikes an aeroplane. Similarly to a car, an aeroplane also functions as a Faraday cage, i.e. an enclosed space that blocks out external electric fields. When lightning strikes an aeroplane, the passengers inside are perfectly safe. Obviously this natural phenomenon can be highly unpleasant due to the noise and flash, which is particularly noticeable on night flights. An aeroplane that has been struck by lightning will

continue its flight unimpeded. Although the construction and electronic devices of aeroplanes are tested and protected against these circumstances, any aeroplane that has been struck by lightning will be additionally examined by a technical team upon landing. The entrance or exit point of the lightning bolt can sometimes be visible as a scorched area on the surface, but the aeroplane construction will remain undamaged. In the course of my career in aviation, I have personally experienced three mid-flight lightning strikes; none of them had any special consequences, excluding the momentary unpleasant surprise of the noise and flash. Nothing out of the ordinary happened to the aeroplane or its electronic devices; we were able to continue the flight safely and end it with a normal landing. Dear passengers, even though we are well into the period of summer heat storms that are usually accompanied by lightning strikes, there is no cause for concern. Using the dedicated weather instruments, the flight crew will avoid storm clouds as much as possible, and the build of the aeroplane will ensure that you remain absolutely safe throughout the flight. At most, you will be left with another interesting story to add to the memorable and exciting adventures from your vacation. I wish you a pleasant summer! What would you like to know about aviation? Send us your questions to the email address inflightmagazine@adria.si.

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ADRIA AIRWAYS

fotografija: ŠSchweizer Luftwaffe

20 let poletov med Ljubljano in Zuerichom 16


Od leve proti desni: mag. Alen Mlekuž, direktor korporativnega komuniciranja, Adria in Zvone Petek, predstavnik Adrie v Švici s članicama kabinskega osebja. From left to right: Alen Mlekuž, Msc, Director Corporate Communications, Adria and Zvone Petek, Adria Representative and the Head of the Zurich Office accompanied by cabin crew members

20 let letalske linije niti ni tako dolga doba, če pa jo ponazorimo s številkami, se šele pokaže, kaj pomeni leta in leta redno leteti na določeno destinacijo: od leta 1992 do danes je Adria opravila med obema krajema skoraj 11.000 letov, kar je 22.000 pristankov, in prepeljala nekaj manj kot 750.000 potnikov. Prvi let Ljubljana–Zuerich je bil 29. marca 1992 in to leto jih je Adria opravila še 150. Za primerjavo: v letu 2011 so Adrijina letala odletela na tej relaciji preko 1.000 letov. Prva leta smo leteli petkrat tedensko, leta 1998 pa smo uvedli že dva leta na dan. Tretji let dnevno je opravljal naš takratni veliki konkurent Swissair. Po prelomnem letu za letalstvo 2001 se je Adrijin promet prepolovil, pa tudi novo nastali Swiss ni dosegel takšnih rezultatov kot poprej Swissair; promet na liniji je rasel počasi. Ko se je Swiss pridružil Lufthansinemu koncernu, je opustil letenje v Ljubljano; Adria je pohitela s sklenitvijo pogodbe za letenje pod skupno oznako in uvedla še tretji – opoldanski let. Leta 2007 smo prvič presegli številko 50.000 potnikov na leto in jih lani prepeljali že 74.000. Letos pričakujemo na tej liniji 80.000 potnikov. Linija, ki je med

Adrijinimi destinacijami dolgo životarila in bila po številu potnikov in finančnih rezultatih šele na 15. mestu, sodi danes med tri naše najboljše. Sprva so na tej linji leteli predvsem potniki, ki so preko Ljubljane potovali na Balkan, zlasti v Prištino in Skopje, pa tudi v Tirano in Sarajevo. Danes je njihov delež seveda še vedno pomemben, vendar je padel pod 20 %. Skoraj 50 % potnikov je tako imenovanih »point to point« potnikov, zahvaljujoč vedno boljšim gospodarskim stikom med Švico in Slovenijo, pa tudi zato, ker imamo na liniji potnike iz avstrijske Koroške, hrvaške Istre in Kvarnerja ter iz Furlanije. Pozabiti ne smemo tudi na turizem: vsak sedmi potnik leti v Slovenijo kot turist, pa tudi Slovenci radi poletijo na počitnice preko Zuericha, še posebej z našimi Star Alliance partnerji, kot so Swiss, Singapore Airlines, Thai ... Adrijina linija Ljubljana–Zuerich pa ni zgolj letalska povezava med dvema

mestoma, ampak je tudi pomembna vez med dvema državama: že takoj po osamosvojitvi je Adrijino predstavništvo, ki ima še danes sedež v centru Zuericha, ponudilo svoje prostore za konzularne dejavnosti mlade države. Kasneje je več kot 10 let v Adrijini »slovenski hiši« v Zuerichu poslovalo turistično predstavništvo Slovenije, od leta 2010 pa je v Adrijinem predstavništvu na Loewenstrasse tudi Konzulat Republike Slovenije; Adrijin predstavnik Zvone Petek, ki že 17 let vodi predstavništvo v Zürichu, pa je častni konzul Republike Slovenije. Ob 20-letnici linije je predstavništvo Adrie marca organiziralo v Zuerichu odmevno prireditev, ki so se je udeležili številni ugledni gostje iz Slovenije in Švice, okronal pa jo je panoramski polet v švicarske Alpe, ki sta ga spremljala dva lovca švicarskega vojaškega letalstva – FA 18. To je bil zgodovinski dogodek tudi zato, ker je bil Adrijin pilot Iztok Kavčič kot prvi tuji pilot deležen te časti.

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ADRIA AIRWAYS Od leve proti desni/ from left to right: Klemen Boštjančič/ predsednik uprave Adrie/ President of the ManagementBoard & CEO; Peter Grünig/ Letališče Zuerich/ Zurich Airport. Fotografija: Natalie Zalan

fotografija: M. Klemenc

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Fotografija: Natalie Zalan

20 Years of Ljubljana-Zurich Flights Perhaps 20 years of operating a regular connection is not a very long period, but when it is expressed in numbers, it becomes easier to understand what it really means to fly between the same two destinations for years and years: from 1992 until today, Adria has operated almost 11,000 flights, which means 22,000 landings. Close to 750,000 passengers were transported between the two destinations. The first Ljubljana-Zurich flight took place on 29 March 1992 and was followed by a further 150 Adria flights that year. By comparison: in 2011 alone, Adria aeroplanes made over 1000 flights along this route. Initially we offered just five flights a week until two daily flights were introduced in 1998. The third daily flight was operated by Swissair, one of Adria’s major competitors at that time. 2001 was a turning point for aviation; Adria saw its traffic cut in half and the newly-established Swiss airline failed to match the results achieved by Swissair, its predecessor. Traffic along the Ljubljana-Zurich connection increased only gradually. Once Swiss joined the Lufthansa Group and dropped its flights to Ljubljana, Adria quickly concluded a code-share agreement and introduced a third, midday flight.

Fotografija: Natalie Zalan

2007 was the first time that we carried over 50,000 passengers in a year, while last year saw as many as 74,000 passengers using this connection. In 2012, we expect 80,000. The Ljubljana-Zurich line,

long one of the less popular Adria flights and ranking only 15th by the number of passengers and financial results, is today one of the top three best Adria lines. Initially, the connection was used mainly by passengers travelling through Ljubljana onward to destinations in the Balkans, particularly to Pristina and Skopje, as well as Tirana and Sarajevo. We still see a significant number of such passengers, although their share has dropped below 20%. Close to 50% of passengers are point to point passengers; this is thanks to the ever improving economic relations between Switzerland and Slovenia, but also because the connection is often used by passengers from Carinthia in Austria, Istra and Kvarner in Croatia and the Friuli region. Tourism is also an important factor. One out of every seven passengers flies to Slovenia as a tourist and Slovenians like to go on vacation via Zurich, especially flying with our Star Alliance partners such as Swiss, Singapore Airlines, Thai, etc. Adria’s Ljubljana-Zurich line is more than just a flight connection between two

cities; it also represents an important bond between two countries. Immediately after Slovenia’s declaration of independence, the Adria office in Switzerland, even today located in the very heart of Zurich, offered its premises to be used for consular activities of the newly independent country. Later, Adria’s “Slovenian building” in Zurich hosted the Slovenian tourism office for more than a decade, and since 2010, the Adria office at Loewenstrasse has also housed the Consulate of the Republic of Slovenia. Mr. Zvone Petek, Adria representative and head of the Zurich office for the last 17 years, also serves as the honorary consul of Slovenia. To celebrate the 20th anniversary of the Ljubljana-Zurich line, the Adria office in Zurich organised a highly publicised event in March that was attended by a number of prominent guests from Slovenia and Switzerland. The highlight of the event was a panoramic flight over the Swiss Alps in the company of two FA 18 fighter jets from the Swiss air force. Adria pilot Iztok Kavčič was the first foreign pilot to receive this honour, making this a truly historical event in every respect.

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ADRIA AIRWAYS

Intervju/Interview with Mateja Krpač BESEDILO/text: barbara m. bukovec

Gospa Mateja Krpač, doma iz Ljubljane, že enajst let živi in dela v Zuerichu. Razpeta med svojim domačim krajem in Švico, ostaja ena Adrijinih najzvestejših potnic na liniji Ljubljana–Zuerich. V dvajsetih letih obstoja zračne povezave med obema mestoma je že več kot 400-krat letela na tej progi. Prijetna sogovornica je, strpna potnica in dobra poznavalka Adrijine flote.

Gospa Krpač, verjetno se v trenutku, ko vstopite v katero od Adrijinih letal, počutite povsem domače?

Fotografija: osebni arhiv

Po tolikih letih v Adrijinih letalih je to čisto res. Seveda občasno letim tudi na druge destinacije z drugimi letalskimi družbami, vendar se nikjer ne morem tako sprostiti kot na Adrijinih poletih. Pravzaprav se samo na Adrii počutim res varno. Morda zato, ker jo najbolj poznam, po imenih in na pogled pa poznam večino pilotov in kabinskega osebja. Pa tudi zato, ker sem prepričana, da Adria lepo skrbi za svoja letala, saj ima ne nazadnje na ljubljanskem letališču edini pooblaščeni center za vzdrževanje CRJ letal v Evropi. In seveda zato, ker je to »naša«, slovenska družba. Je res, da že po zvoku motorja ločite, katero letalo vas bo tokrat popeljalo? Mislim, da tudi večina voznikov pozna zvok svojega osebnega vozila. Ko se toliko let redno voziš z letali, postaneš pozoren tudi na njihov zvok. Vedno se vnaprej pozanimam, s katerim letalom bom letela, saj mi je prav po zvoku motorja kakšno letalo ljubše. Se mi je pa tudi že zgodilo, da sem se kakšnega letala izogibala, ker se mi je dozdevalo, da mi zvok njegovega motorja ne ugaja. Ko pa sem bila čez čas primorana leteti prav z njim, sem z zadovoljstvom opazila, da je tisti »čudni« zvok izginil.

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Se morda spomnite kakšnega še posebej zanimivega trenutka nad oblaki? Moram reči, da se mi je v vseh teh letih letenja nasmehnila sreča, da sem lahko letela v kokpitu. To je bilo nepozabno doživetje. A bi nam lahko glede na to, da precej svojega časa preživite na poti, svetovali, kaj pogrešate v naši ponudbi? Morda bi lahko vam in vsem ostalim potnikom te poti še olajšali. Vedno se najde še kaj, kar bi se dalo izboljšati, vendar bi težko rekla, da kaj zares pogrešam. Morda sem manj zahtevna kot drugi, vendar mi še nikoli ni nič manjkalo. Malo za ’hec’ bi lahko rekla, da mi Adria ob 3-urni zamudi iz Zuericha v Ljubljano ponudi celo 3-urno zamudo ob povratku v Zuerich, tako da lahko doma v Sloveniji preživim prav toliko časa, kot nameravam. So pa zamude v zadnjih časih, vsaj na moji relaciji, prava redkost. Sicer pa se zame začne Adrijina ponudba že z nakupom letalske karte, ki ga vedno opravim preko Adrijinega predstavništva v Zuerichu. Veliko stvari je, ki pri načrtovanju leta zahtevajo osebni kontakt in jih preko spleta ni mogoče urediti. Pri tem se želim res iskreno zahvaliti gospodu Zvonetu Petku in njegovi ekipi za izjemen servis v vseh teh letih, kar živim v Zuerichu. Velikokrat me celo pokličejo in opozorijo, da je pred vrati kakšen praznik, jaz pa še nimam rezervirane vozovnice ...


Originally from Ljubljana, Ms. Mateja Krpač has been living and working in Zurich for the last eleven years. Torn between her home town and Switzerland, she remains one of Adria’s most loyal passengers on the Ljubljana-Zurich line. In the twenty years that Adria has operated a regular connection between the two cities, she has flown on this line over 400 times. Ms. Krpač is a pleasant conversationalist, a patient passenger and an expert on the Adria fleet. Ms. Krpač, the moment you board any Adria aeroplane, you probably feel right at home, is that correct? After so many years spent on Adria aeroplanes that’s completely true. Of course I sometimes fly to other destinations with other airlines, but I never feel as relaxed as I do on Adria flights. It’s only on Adria aeroplanes that I feel completely safe. Perhaps it’s because I’m so familiar with them; I know most of the pilots and cabin crew by name and by sight, and I am certain that Adria takes excellent care of its aeroplanes. I know

that the Adria centre at the Ljubljana airport is the only authorised centre for the maintenance of CRJ aeroplanes in Europe. And it’s also because Adria is “our” company, a Slovenian company.

Considering how much of your time is spent travelling, is there anything that you have missed within our offer? Something that would make your travels easier?

Is it true that you can tell just from the engine noise which aeroplane you are about to fly on?

Well, there is always something that could be improved, but it would be difficult for me to say that I really miss anything in particular. Perhaps I’m less demanding than other people, but I’ve never missed anything. On a lighter note, I could say that after a 3-hour delay on the Zurich-Ljubljana flight, Adria even offers a 3-hour delay on the return to Zurich, giving me the opportunity to spend exactly as much time at home in Slovenia as I’d planned. But in recent years, delays have been extremely rare, at least on my line.

I think that most drivers would recognise the sound of their car. After so many years of regular flying,you start to pay more attention to the aeroplane sounds. I always check in advance what type of aeroplane I’ll be flying on, because I do prefer the engine noise of some aeroplanes to others. It has happened before that I avoided a certain aeroplane, because I had convinced myself that I didn’t like the sound of its engine. But after a while, I was forced to fly on that very aeroplane, and I was happy to realise that the “strange noise” was gone. Are there any particularly interesting moments above the clouds that you can recall? Yes, after so many years of flying, I was fortunate enough to fly in the cockpit once. That was an experience that I'll never forget.

TRGOVINA

NAD OBLAKI ADRIASKYSHOP.si

As far as I’m concerned, Adria’s offer starts with the purchase of flight tickets, which I always do at the Adria office in Zurich. When planning a flight, there are so many things that call for personal contact and simply can’t be done online. I’d like to take this opportunity to express my gratitude to Mr. Zvone Petek and his team for the excellent service throughout the years that I’ve lived in Zurich. They often even call me to warn me that a holiday is coming up and that I haven’t booked a ticket yet…


UMETNOST IN KULTURA / ART & CULTURE

Fotografija: Matevž Paternoster

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Ljubljana, Mestni muzej Ljubljana

Ljubljana, City Museum of Ljubljana

Več glav več ve Pomembne glave na ogled v Mestnem muzeju Ljubljana

Many Heads Are Better than One Busts of prominent people exhibited at the City Museum of Ljubljana

Na kaj pomislite, ko je govora o pomembnih glavah? Na državnike in župane, vladarje in plemiče, umetnike in filozofe? Vsi našteti so skozi stoletja oblikovali in vplivali na življenje v Ljubljani. Očitno so bili tako pomembni, da so znani in neznani kiparji ohranili njihove podobe v lesu, glini, marmorju in bronu vse do danes. Tiste portrete pomembnežev, ki jih hrani Mestni muzej Ljubljana, si je sedaj mogoče ogledati na razstavi Več glav … iz kiparske zbirke Mestnega muzeja Ljubljana … več ve, ki je na ogled do konca leta.

What is your definition of prominent people? Statesmen and mayors, rulers and aristocrats, artists and philosophers? Over the course of many centuries, all of these people have shaped and influenced life in Ljubljana. They were obviously prominent enough to be depicted in wood, clay, marble or bronze by celebrated as well as unknown sculptors, who preserved the image of these people until the modern day. The busts of important people in the collection held by the City Museum of Ljubljana are now part of an exhibition entitled “Many Heads … from the City Museum of Ljubljana sculpture collection … Are Better than One,” which will run until the end of this year.

Med znamenitimi portretiranci si lahko ogledate habsburškega cesarja Franca Jožefa I., italijanskega kralja Viktorja Emanuela III., jugoslovanska kralja Aleksandra in Petra Karađorđevića, slavnega maršala Radetzkega, papeža Pija VI. in še marsikoga drugega. Spogledujete se lahko z okamenelimi obličji slovenskih literatov, slikarjev, kiparjev in drugih kulturnikov, npr. pesnikom Otonom Župančičem in igralko Savo Severjevo. Predstavljate si lahko, kakšne lepotice so se sprehajale po ljubljanskih ulicah v časih, ko je ženskemu svetu narekovala modna merila cesarica Sissi, ali kako je kipar v portretu utelesil usodno privlačnost svoje svakinje, kasnejše soproge.

The portraits of the famous include the Habsburg Emperor Franz Joseph I, King Victor Emmanuel III of Italy, Kings Alexander and Peter Karađorđević of Yugoslavia, the famous field marshal Radetzky, Pope Pius VI and many more. You will also come face to face with the busts of Slovenian writers, painters, sculptors and other artists, e.g. the poet Oton Župančič and the actress Sava Sever. Imagine the beautiful women who lived in Ljubljana at a time when fashion trends were set by Empress Sissi, or imagine a sculptor expressing in a portrait the fatal attraction he felt towards his sister-in-law, who would later become his wife.

Vabljeni v Mestni muzej Ljubljana, Gosposka 15, od torka do nedelje med 10. in 18. uro, ob četrtkih pa do 21. ure. Več informacij na: www.mgml.si.

Visit the City Museum of Ljubljana, Gosposka 15, open Tuesday to Sunday from 10:00 to 18:00 and until 21:00 on Thursdays. For more information, please visit: www.mgml.si.


UMETNOST IN KULTURA / ART & CULTURE Ljubljana, Galerija Jakopič, MGML; 29. maj–2. september 2012

Ljubljana, Jakopič Gallery, MGML; 29 May to 2 September 2012

Mesec fotografije 2012 MAGNUM PRVIČ: Obraz časa

Month of Photography 2012 MAGNUM’S FIRST: Face of Time

Slovenski javnosti letošnje poletje prvič obširneje predstavljamo agencijo Magnum, najprestižnejšo fotografsko agencijo na svetu, ki velja za fotografski mit 20. stoletja ter vedno znova navdihuje nove generacije fotografov.

This summer will see the first extensive exhibition of Magnum photographs in Slovenia. Magnum is the world’s most prestigious photographic agency, a 20th century photography legend and an inexhaustible source of inspiration for new generations of photographers.

Izbor razstave »Magnum prvič« (Magnum's First) vključuje 83 originalnih črno-belih vintage fotografij svetovno priznanih fotografov, med njimi tudi ustanoviteljev Magnuma, to so: Robert Capa, Marc Riboud, Werner Bischof, Henri Cartier-Bresson, Ernst Haas, Erich Lessing, Jean Marquis in fotografinja Inge Morath. V Galeriji Jakopič v Ljubljani se obeta nezamenljiva priložnost ogleda vrhunske svetovne klasične fotografije. Razstava ne pomeni le presežka, ki bo navdušil poznavalce fotografije zaradi svoje slogovne in tehnične kvalitete ter ohranjenosti fotografij, temveč prinaša tudi izjemno zanimive zgodbe, ki so jih v svojih fotoreportažah obravnavali posamezni fotografi. Tako fotografije Henrija Cartier-Bressona uprizarjajo zadnje dni življenja velikega indijskega voditelja Gandija in njegov pogreb. Ernst Haas je avtor fotoreportaže o snemanju monumentalnega filmskega epa Howarda Hawksa Dežela faraonov iz leta 1955. Pristne podobe londonske družbe zgodnjih 50. let prinaša serija fotografij Avstrijke Inge Morath, medtem ko je francoski fotograf Marc Riboud v vrvežu dalmatinskih uličic med drugim ujel prenašanje velikega Titovega portreta. Morda najbolj znan fotoreporter vseh časov, Robert Capa, je za prvo Magnumovo razstavo prispeval tri fotografije baskovske pokrajine, najbolj eksotične pa so podobe fotografskega dnevnika Wernerja Bischofa iz Peruja, Čileja, Japonske, Kambodže ... Dva od treh še živečih avtorjev (poleg Ribouda) – Erich Lessing in Jean Marquis – sta na razstavi znova predstavljena s podobami iz naše bližnje okolice: prvi s fotografijami dunajskih otrok in drugi z vedutami iz Madžarske.

Included in the Magnum’s First Exhibition are 83 black-and-white photographs, vintage originals by world famous photographers including Magnum founders: Robert Capa, Marc Riboud, Werner Bischof, Henri Cartier-Bresson, Ernst Haas, Erich Lessing, Jean Marquis and Inge Morath. The Jakopič Gallery in Ljubljana is offering an unparalleled opportunity to see these superb examples of classic photography. The exhibition in itself is an extraordinary achievement that will impress photography experts with the high level of stylistic and technical quality, as well as with the excellent condition of the prints on show. Just as importantly, the exhibition also presents a number of fascinating stories highlighted by individual photographers in their photojournalistic reports. The photographs taken by Henri Cartier-Bresson, for instance, show the last days of the great Indian leader Gandhi, concluding with his funeral. Ernst Haas created a photo essay about the filming of Howard Hawks’ lavish 1955 epic Land of the Pharaohs. Austrian photographer Inge Morath portrayed a series of genuine moments in London society of the early 1950s, while French photographer Marc Riboud focused on the bustling streets of Dalmatia, catching, among other scenes, a large portrait of Tito being carried around. Robert Capa, perhaps the best known photojournalist of all time, contributed three photographs of the Basque landscape, but the most exotic images in Magnum’s First were taken from the photographic journal of Werner Bischof: photographs taken in Peru, Chile, Japan, Cambodia … The work of Erich Lessing and Jean Marquis, two of the three authors that are still alive today (the third being Marc Riboud), is represented at the exhibition with images taken closer to Slovenia – Lessing’s photographs of children in Vienna and Marquis’ series of Hungarian photographs.

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UMETNOST IN KULTURA / ART & CULTURE Ljubljana, 20. junij–13. september 2012

Ljubljana festival 60. Ljubljana Festival bodo 20. junija uradno odprli Dunajski filharmoniki pod taktirko slovitega sira Simona Rattla. Častni pokrovitelj koncerta je predsednik države dr. Danilo Türk. The 60th Ljubljana Festival officially opens on 20 June with a concert by the Vienna Philharmonic led by prominent conductor Sir Simon Rattle. The honorary sponsor of the concert is the President of Slovenia, Dr. Danilo Türk.

Fotografija: Arhiv SNG Opera in balet Ljubljana

Prvi dogodek pa se je zgodil že 30. maja s fotografsko razstavo 60 Alenke Slavinec v Jakopičevem sprehajališču v parku Tivoli. Kongresni trg bo Ljubljana Festival zasedel 21. junija s Poletno nočjo, poklonom 50. obletnici slovenske popevke, ki je sicer tudi del velikega projekta Mestne občine Ljubljana Junij v Ljubljani, na katerem se bo odvila vrsta brezplačnih prireditev za vse generacije v izvedbi najvidnejših institucij. Prva večja Festivalova gledališka predstava bo v juniju Gospoda Glembajevi beograjskega Ateljeja 212; v glavni vlogi nastopa Boris Cavazza. Jani Golob bo krstno izvedel operno delo Ljubezen kapital, študentje treh ljubljanskih akademij pa baročno opero Orfej. Zaradi velikega zanimanja bo Ljubljana Festival gostil umetnino Marija Kogoja Črne maske. Poletje v Ljubljani bo ponovno popestril violinist Vadim Repin, ki bo nastopil skupaj z Orkestrom Slovenske filharmonije. Ta bo spremljal tudi baletno skupino Béjart Ballet iz Lozane ter enkratna operna solista, sopranistko Invo Mula (svetovno prepoznavnost je med drugim doživela z glasom, ki ga je posodila divi Plavilaguni v filmu Peti element) in baritonista Lea Nuccija. Med velikimi koncerti naj omenimo gostovanje skladatelja in pianista Michaela Nymana, ki je prispeval glasbo za nekaj večkrat nagrajenih filmov (med drugim Klavir), Komornega orkestra Dunajskega koncertnega združenja in Orkestra Mariinskega gledališča iz Sankt Peterburga, ki mu bo dirigiral njegov direktor in umetniški vodja Valerij Gergijev. Med lahkotnejšimi prireditvami bosta muzikal Čarovnice iz Eastwicka Mestnega gledališča ljubljanskega in Jesus Christ Superstar, ki nastaja v londonski produkciji Bronowski. Križanke bosta zagotovo dvignila na noge Vlado Kreslin, ki tam nastopa že enaindvajsetič, in hudičev goslač, romski violinist Roby Lakatos. Ljubljana Festival 2012 se končuje v septembru: njegov iztek bosta zaznamovala Hommage à Stravinsky, sodobni balet koreografa Edwarda Cluga, in najnovejša predstava Tomaža Pandurja Medeja. Festival Ljubljana je ob obletnici prenovil spletno stran www.ljubljanafestival.si, ki omogoča tudi nakup vstopnic, dejaven pa je tudi na socialnih omrežjih.

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However, the first Festival event happened even before the official opening: 30 May sees the opening of the Alenka Slavinec photography exhibition entitled 60, located on the Jakopič Promenade in Tivoli Park. The Ljubljana Festival continues at the Kongresni trg square on 21 June with Summer Night, a tribute to the 50th anniversary of Slovenian popular song. The concert is also a part of June in Ljubljana, an extensive project of the Ljubljana Municipality that will include a range of free events for all ages, organised by prominent institutions. The first major Festival theatre show is scheduled for June: a performance of The Glembajs, staged by Belgrade’s Atelje 212 and starring Boris Cavazza in the lead role. There will also be a world premiere of Jani Golob’s opera Love Capital, while students of three Ljubljana academies will perform Orpheus, a baroque opera. Due to popular demand, the Ljubljana Festival will also host Marij Kogoj’s masterpiece Black Masks. Once again, the summer in Ljubljana will be made a little bit hotter by violinist Vadim Repin performing with the Slovenian Philharmonic Orchestra. The Orchestra will also accompany the Béjart Ballet Lausanne ballet company and two supreme opera soloists: soprano Inva Mula (famous among other things for being the voice behind the diva Plavalaguna in the film The Fifth Element) and baritone Leo Nucci. Some of the biggest Festival concert names include composer and pianist Michael Nyman, who has scored a number of award-winning films (including The Piano), the Vienna Chamber Orchestra and the St. Petersburg Mariinsky Theatre Orchestra conducted by its artistic and general director, Valery Gergiev. Popular music is represented by the musicals The Witches of Eastwick by the Ljubljana City Theatre and Jesus Christ Superstar by London’s Bronowski Productions. Audiences at the Križanke venue will be entertained by Vlado Kreslin, returning for his 21st performance there, and Romani violinist Roby Lakatos, also known as “the Devil’s fiddler”. The 2012 Ljubljana Festival ends in September with Hommage à Stravinsky, a contemporary ballet choreographed by Edward Clug, and Tomaž Pandur’s latest show, Medea. To mark its anniversary, the Ljubljana Festival has overhauled its website at www.ljubljanafestival.si, where tickets are now available for purchase. The Festival is also active on various social networks.


UMETNOST IN KULTURA / ART & CULTURE Različna prizorišča

II. Mednarodni trienale keramike Unicum 2012 – Slovenija Second International Triennial of Ceramics Unicum 2012 - Slovenia Na drugem trienalu Unicum 2012 bodo organizatorji Zveze društev slovenskih likovnih umetnikov in Unicum 2012 predstavili vse smeri ustvarjanja v tehniki keramike in pomagali pri razumevanju, presojanju pa tudi izobraževanju na področju sodobne keramike. Izvedli ga bodo v več slovenskih mestih hkrati. Spremljevalni program bo obsegal pogovore, delavnice, projekcije filmov in druge dogodke.

Unicum 2012, organised by the Union of Slovenian Fine Arts Associations, presents the broad spectrum of artistic styles applied to ceramics and aims to help in the understanding and artistic evaluation of modern ceramics as well as in education in this field. The triennial will take place across several cities and towns in Slovenia. The accompanying programme will include talks, workshops, film screenings and other events.

Maribor

Krajinski park Goričko

Evropski kulturni in tehnološki center (EKTC) Maribor, dvorec Betnava – osrednja razstava del, ki so prispela na mednarodni razpis, in razstava študentskih del; 15. 5.–30. 9. 2012

Grad Grad – razstava del redukcijskega žganja; 3. 4.–3. 6. 2012

European Cultural and Technological Centre (EKTC) Maribor, Betnava Manor – central exhibition of works received in response to an international call for participation and exhibition of student works, 15 May to 30 September 2012. Ljubljana ZDSLU Galerija, vrt ZDSLU – razstava Vere Stanković; 7. 5.–30. 5. 2012 ZDSLU Gallery, ZDSLU garden – Vera Stanković Exhibition, 7 May to 30 May 2012. Galerija ZDSLU – razstava Toneta Demšarja; 26. 4.–25. 5. 2012 ZDSLU Gallery – Tone Demšar Exhibition, 26 April to 25 May 2012.

Grad Castle – exhibition of reduction firing works, 3 April to 3 June 2012. Slovenj Gradec Koroška galerija likovnih umetnosti – stalna zbirka podarjenih del I. Mednarodnega trienala keramike Unicum 2009 Koroška Art Gallery – permanent collection of donated works from the First International Triennial of Ceramics Unicum 2009. Kostanjevica na Krki Lapidarij Galerije Božidar Jakac – soočanje avtorskega raziskovanja v umetniški keramiki; 25. 5.–5. 8. 2012 Božidar Jakac Gallery Lapidarium – facing original research in ceramic art, 25 May to 5 August 2012. Ajdovščina

Narodni muzej Slovenije, Metelkova, Ljubljana – razstava izdelkov tovarne Dekor Ljubljana in študijska zbirka keramike in stekla stalne zbirke; 15. 5.–30. 9. 2012

Pilonova galerija – razstava o keramični dediščini v prenovljenih notranjščinah arhitekta Svetozarja Križaja; maj, junij 2012

National Museum of Slovenia – Metelkova, Ljubljana – exhibition of objects produced in the Dekor Ljubljana factory and a ceramics and glass study collection from the Museum’s permanent exhibition, 15 May to 30 September 2012.

Pilon Gallery – exhibition on ceramic heritage in the renovated interiors designed by architect Svetozar Križaj, May and June 2012.

Ljubljanski grad, Kazemate – avtorska razstava vabljenih ustvarjalcev (Mirsad Begić, Jakov Brdar, Ana Cajnko, Tanja Smole Cvelbar, Dragica Čadež, Vasilije Ćetković–Vasko, Anton Flego, Lovro Inkret, Tomaž Kržišnik, Franc Novinc, Eva Lenassi Peterson, Karel Plemenitaš, Mojca Smerdu, Dušan Tršar); 23. 5.–31. 8. 2012 Ljubljana Castle, Kazemate – exhibition of works created by guest artists (Mirsad Begić, Jakov Brdar, Ana Cajnko, Tanja Smole Cvelbar, Dragica Čadež, Vasilije Ćetković – Vasko, Anton Flego, Lovro Inkret, Tomaž Kržišnik, Franc Novinc, Eva Lenassi Peterson, Karel Plemenitaš, Mojca Smerdu, Dušan Tršar), 23 May to 31 August 2012.

Slovenska Bistrica Grasslov stolp – javni poziv slovenskim ustvarjalcem v keramiki; 28. 5.–6. 9. 2012 Grassel Tower – open call for Slovenian artists working with ceramics, 28 May to 6 September 2012. Novo mesto Dolenjski muzej, Knezova soba – razstava črne prazgodovinske lončenine; 28. 10.–31. 5. 2013 Dolenjska Museum, Knezova soba room – exhibition of black prehistoric pottery, 28 October to 31 May 2013. www.unicum.si 25


UMETNOST IN KULTURA / ART & CULTURE

APT Foto

Maribor in Novo Mesto, Junij

Pomladanska Evropska prestolnica kulture 2012 Springtime in the European Capital of Culture 2012

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V sklopu Evropske prestolnice kulture 2012 junij na široko odpira svoja vrata raznolikim kulturnim doživetjem. Na odre v gledališča in na trge lahko zavijete tako v Mariboru kot v vseh partnerskih mestih. V tokratnem izboru vam ponujamo rock opero, konjeniški gledališki spektakel in akrobatsko predstavo.

As part of the European Capital of Culture 2012 Project, June will see a wide range of cultural events. There will be plenty to see on the stages in theatres and on town squares in Maribor as well as its partner towns. This time, our selection comprises a rock opera, a horse spectacular and an acrobatic show.

Jasa na Otočcu, Grajska cesta, Otočec pri Novem mestu 26. 6. ob 21.15 premiera in 27. 6. ob 21.15 ponovitev

Meadow on Otočec, Grajska cesta, Otočec near Novo mesto 26 June at 21:15 – opening night, 27 June at 21:15 – repeat.

ČlovekA z bombami

Two Men with Bombs

Projekt ČlovekA z bombami na horizontalni ravni – z detonacijami glasbenega kolektiva Siddharta – sproža in artikulira miselni in estetski dvoboj obeh avantgardistov, na vertikalni ravni pa performerji (gibalci, intermedijski umetniki, športniki) »teoretsko« komentirajo čas po postpostmoderni in iščejo novo dobo in status elitnega nasproti množičnemu. Predstava je eksperiment brechtovske provenience, so potujitev časa in prostora ter sodelovanje emancipiranega gledalca notranji pogoj detonacije, podnaslova, ki skriva v sebi arzenal, glasbo, nacijo.

On the horizontal axis, the Two Men with Bombs Project triggers and articulates the mental and aesthetic battle of two avant-garde artists using musical detonations created by the Siddharta collective; on the vertical axis, the performers (dancers, intermedia artists, athletes) provide a theoretical commentary on the time after post-post-modernism and search for a new age and an elite status to counter mass consumption. The event is an experiment in Brechtian origins that symbolises the alienation of our time and space; the participation of an emancipated audience is an internal condition for detonations. The subtitle of the piece encompasses an arsenal, music, a nation.


UMETNOST IN KULTURA / ART & CULTURE

Fotografija: Mario de Curto

Univerzitetni športni center Leona Štuklja, Maribor; 5. in 6. 6. 2012 ob 21.00

Leon Štukelj University Sports Centre, Maribor, 5 and 6 June 2012 at 21:00

Chouf Ouchouf: CHOUF OUCHOUF / Še enkrat dobro poglej – akrobatska predstava

Chouf Ouchouf: CHOUF OUCHOUF / Look, but Take a Real Good Look, acrobatic show

Zimmermann & de Perrot in Groupe acrobatique de Tanger (Akrobatska skupina iz Tangerja). Simbioza dveh nekonvencionalnih švicarskih umetnikov, znanih po nenavadnih spektaklih, polnih absurdnega humorja in dovršene vizualne podobe, ter mladeničev in mladenk, dedičev tradicionalne maroške poulične akrobatike. Navdušujoča predstava, polna energije in neverjetnih akrobatskih točk, osvaja najodličnejše mednarodne odre in nagrade.

Zimmermann & de Perrot and Groupe acrobatique de Tanger (Acrobatic Group of Tangier). The symbiosis of two unconventional Swiss artists, famous for creating unusual spectaculars filled with absurd humour and featuring highly perfected visuals, and a group of young people continuing the tradition of Moroccan street acrobatics. This exciting show, bursting with energy and featuring breathtaking acrobatic performances, has been performed on the most respected international stages and has been winning countless awards.

Hipodrom Kamnica, Maribor; 12., 13. in 14. 6. 2012 ob 21.00

Kamnica Hippodrome, Maribor, 12, 13 and 14 June 2012 at 21:00.

Konjenikova pot – konjeniški gledališki spektakel

The Way of the Equestrian, a horse theatrical spectacular

Veliki konjeniški spektakel z več kot 30 konji pasme luzitanec je delo slovitega francoskega režiserja, producenta in konjeniškega mojstra Bartabasa, ki je v nekdanjih kraljevih konjušnicah gradu Versailles osnoval akademijo za gledališče s konji. Doživite konjeništvo – ne kot športno disciplino, ampak kot umetnost, ki združuje eleganco konjskega telesa z magično močjo gledališča.

This grand horse spectacular featuring over 30 Lusitano horses was developed by the renowned French director, producer and equestrian expert Bartabas, who founded the Equestrian Arts Academy at the royal stables of Versailles. Experience equestrianism not as a sports discipline but as an art form that combines the elegance of the horse’s body with the magical power of theatre.

www.maribor2012.eu 27


UMETNOST IN KULTURA / ART & CULTURE Dunaj, paviljon Otta Wagnerja

Amsterdam

Paviljon Otta Wagnerja na Karlsplatzu je spet odprt

Holandski festival

Do začetka novembra Znamenito secesijsko zgradbo so prenovili, v njej pa so razstavljena dela Otta Wagnerja. Otto Wagner (1841–1918) je kot arhitekt, umetnik, teoretik urbanističnega načrtovanja in profesor na dunajski Akademiji za likovno umetnost pomagal odpreti pot dunajskemu modernizmu. Njegovi načrti so združevali učinkovite tehnične in gradbene rešitve z izjemnim estetskim učinkom. V nekdanji postajni stavbi dunajske mestne železnice (hitri tranzitni vlak) je danes razstava, ki priča o življenju in delu tega velikega avstrijskega arhitekta. Znamenita zgradba na Karlsplatzu nudi od l. 2005 avtentično domovanje manjši zbirki del Otta Wagnerja, ki jo sestavljajo dokumenti, Wagnerjevi načrti in arhitekturne makete. Razstava v paviljonu Otta Wagnerja, ki jo je organiziral Dunajski muzej, prikazuje same začetke Wagnerjevih najslavnejših del in arhitekturnih projektov, kot so npr. secesijska cerkev na Steinhofu, stavba Poštne hranilnice ali prelomni projekt postaje mestne železnice. Razstava razkriva tudi Wagnerjevo identiteto radikalnega teoretika in polemičnega pisca, ki je nasprotoval tradicionalizmu in »idiličnosti«. Poleg številnih dokumentov sta v zbirki tudi dve maketi Wagnerjevih zgradb. Obiskovalci dojemajo razstavo kot poklon arhitektu, ki jih vabi, naj odkrijejo Dunaj z njegove perspektive.

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Od 1. do 26. junija Holandski festival, vodilni mednarodni festival performativne umetnosti na Nizozemskem, se ponovno vrača v času od 1. do 26. junija. Festival že od l. 1947 ponuja nizozemskim in mednarodnim obiskovalcem pregled najboljših in najbolj priznanih performansov z vsega sveta. Na sporedu je privlačna mešanica gledališke, glasbene, plesne, operne, filmske in vizualne umetnosti, pa tudi performansi z Zahoda in drugih delov sveta v najrazličnejših jezikih. Festivalski program se dosledno osredotoča na prehajanje med disciplinami in vedno vključuje performanse, ki ustrezajo najvišjim umetniškim standardom. Med festivalskimi lokacijami so tudi najbolj zanimiva gledališka prizorišča v Amsterdamu, kot npr. Muziekgebouw aan 't IJ na reki IJ, gledališče Carré ob reki Amstel, Muziektheater v središču mesta ter Stadsschouwburg in Westergasfabriek v trendovski četrti Westerpark. www.hollandfestival.nl Kassel, Nemčija

dOCUMENTA (13) Od 9. junija do 16. septembra 9. junija bodo v nemškem Kasslu odprli razstavo dOCUMENTA (13). Vse od ustanovitve l. 1955 velja dOCUMENTA za eno ključnih mednarodnih razstav sodobne umetnosti na svetu, ki ponuja čas za razmislek o odnosu med umetnostjo in družbo. Razstavo organizirajo vsakih pet let, odprta pa je sto dni. Na letošnji dOCUMENTI se bo srečalo več kot 160 umetnikov in drugih sodelujočih z vsega sveta, predstavili pa bodo najrazličnejše umetniške prakse, kot so: kiparstvo, performans, inštalacije, raziskovanje in arhiviranje, slikanje, fotografija, film, kuratorstvo, tekstualna

in avdio dela, pa tudi druge eksperimente v estetiki, umetnosti, politiki, književnosti, znanosti in ekologiji. Umetniška direktorica Carolyn Christov-Bakargiev dojema dOCUMENTO (13) kot obliko poizvedovanja in uživanja v materialih. Njen intuitivni pristop je podoben pristopu umetnikov in drugih udeležencev, ki jih je izbrala za letošnje sodelovanje. 13. dOCUMENTA bo tako ponujala presenetljivo prizorišče za zastavljanje vprašanj, ki oblikujejo naše dojemanje življenja v sedanjosti. Letošnja razstava tako priča o edinstvenosti našega odnosa do predmetov in naše fasciniranosti nad njimi. Vsaki zgodbi predmeta s težavno preteklostjo se posveča na svojstven način, prav tako vsem spreminjajočim se konotacijam. Predmeti so iz prvinskih, zemeljskih materialov: od masivnega, izklesanega kamna do keramike (trajne, pa vendar lomljive). Razstavljeni so ekscentrični, negotovi in krhki predmeti, pradavni in sodobni predmeti, nedolžni predmeti in predmeti, ki so nekaj izgubili; uničeni predmeti, poškodovani predmeti in neuničljivi predmeti, ukradeni predmeti, skriti ali prikriti predmeti, predmeti, ki se umikajo, predmeti v zavetišču, travmatizirani predmeti. »Uganka« dOCUMENTE (13) je paradoks, prostor s številnimi skrivnostmi, prostor nasilja in prostor morebitnega ozdravljenja. d13.documenta.de Köbenhavn

Jazz festival KÖBENHAVN Od 6. do 15. julija Jazz festival v Köbenhavnu je eden največjih in najbolj spoštovanih glasbenih dogodkov te vrste v Evropi. Na njem se srečujejo ljudje iz glasbene industrije, privrženci jazza in ljubitelji kulture na splošno. Odvija se na prizoriščih po vsej danski prestolnici. Festival se poklanja svobodi in valovanju jazzovske glasbe kot

umetniške oblike ter njenemu obravnavanju glasbene estetike. V jazzu je nujno poskušati kaj novega, obenem pa ohranjati nekaj klasične izraznosti – to je podlaga za dolgotrajen uspeh in sposobnost zapeljevanja vedno novih poslušalcev leto za letom. Med posebne značilnosti festivala sodijo številni brezplačni koncerti po vsem mestu, ki so veliko pripomogli k temu, da je köbenhavnski Jazz festival postal najpomembnejši javni festival v danski prestolnici. Poleg tega je zaščitni znak festivala tudi predstavljanje jazza v edinstvenih okoljih. Tako lahko poslušalci uživajo na koncertih v najimenitnejših mestnih koncertnih dvoranah, pa tudi na stari vzhodnonemški ribiški ladji, v nekdanji tiskarni in v častitljivem, veličastnem parku pivovarne Carlsberg. Köbenhavnski Jazz festival ponuja tudi odlično priložnost za raziskovanje in doživljanje mesta samega – in njegovih najboljših strani. www.jazz.dk/en/ London, Muzej Victoria and Albert

Britansko oblikovanje 1948–2012: inovacije v moderni dobi Do 12. avgusta Leta 1948 so v Londonu potekale prve olimpijske igre po drugi svetovni vojni. »Skromne igre« (kot so jim rekli) so potekale v času gospodarske krize v mestu, porušenem zaradi bombardiranja, vendar so zagotovile podlago za spravo in obnovo. Leta 2012 Velika Britanija znova gosti olimpijske igre in čeprav duh ostaja enak, se je okolje, v katerem bodo potekale, v celoti spremenilo. Britansko oblikovanje 1948–2012 ponuja pregled teh sprememb z raziskovanjem stavb, predmetov, podob in zamisli, ki so jih ustvarili oblikovalci in umetniki, izobraženi ali živeči v Veliki Britaniji.


UMETNOST IN KULTURA / ART & CULTURE Vienna, Otto Wagner Pavilion

Amsterdam

Otto Wagner Pavilion on Karlsplatz reopened

Hollandfestival

Until the beginning of November The Art Nouveau landmark building has been redesigned. It houses an exhibition of works by Otto Wagner. As an architect, artist, theoretician on urban planning, and professor at the Vienna Academy of Fine Arts, Otto Wagner (1841-1918) helped to pave the way for Viennese Modernism. His designs combined effective technical and construction solutions with high aesthetic quality. The former station building of the Vienna Stadtbahn (rapid transit train) contains an exhibition documenting the life and work of the great Austrian architect. Since 2005, the landmark building on Karlsplatz has provided an authentic setting for a small Otto Wagner collection consisting of documents, designs by Otto Wagner, and architectural models. The exhibition in the Otto Wagner Pavilion is organised by Wien Museum and covers the origins of Wagner's most famous designs and architecture projects, such as the Art Nouveau church at Steinhof, the Postsparkasse building or the pioneering Stadtbahn station project. It also documents Otto Wagner's identity as a radical theoretician and polemic writer against all things traditionalist and "idyllic". In addition to numerous documents, the collection also includes two models of Otto Wagner buildings. Visitors will find it is a homage to the architect himself, which invites them to discover Vienna from his perspective.

June 1-26 As the leading international performance arts festival in the Netherlands, the Holland Festival is back once again this year from 1-26 June. Since 1947, the festival has been providing Dutch and international theatregoers with a survey of the best and most widelyacclaimed performance pieces from around the world.

experiments in the fields of aesthetics, art, politics, literature, science, and ecology. For the Artistic Director Carolyn Christov-Bakargiev, dOCUMENTA (13) is a form of inquiry and indulgence in materials. Her intuitive approach resembles that of the artists and other participants she has chosen to work with. Thus, the 13th edition of documenta will be a surprising stage to present questions that shape our notion of life in the present.

The festival graces the stages of some of the city's most exciting theatrical locations, such as Muziekgebouw aan 't IJ on the IJ River, Carré Theatre on the Amstel, centrally-located Muziektheater and Stadsschouwburg and Westergasfabriek in the hip district of Westerpark. www.hollandfestival.nl

This exhibition speaks about the uniqueness of our relationship with objects and our fascination with them. It explores the individual and troubled histories of these objects, and their shifting connotations. The materials of these objects are earthly: from solid carved stone to ceramics (permanent yet breakable). There are eccentric, precarious, and fragile objects, ancient and contemporary objects, innocent objects and objects that have lost something; destroyed objects, damaged objects and indestructible objects, stolen objects, hidden or disguised objects, objects on retreat, objects in refuge, traumatized objects. The “riddle” of dOCUMENTA (13) is a paradox, a space of many secrets, a space of violence, and a space of potential healing. d13.documenta.de

Kassel, Germany

Copenhagen

The festival offers a heady mix of theatre, music, dance, opera, film and visual arts, as well as Western and non-Western performance pieces in a variety of languages. Its programming consistently emphasises discipline crossovers and always includes pieces of the highest artistic standards.

dOCUMENTA (13) From June 9 to September 16 On June 9 dOCUMENTA (13) will open to the public in Kassel. Since it was established in 1955, documenta has been regarded as a key international exhibition of contemporary art worldwide and a moment of reflection on the relationship between art and society. It takes place every five years, and runs for 100 days. Over 160 artists and other participants from around the world will meet and present a variety of artistic practices, including sculpture, performance, installation, research and archiving, painting, photography, film, curatorial, text-based and audio works as well as other

Copenhagen Jazz Festival July 6 to 15 Copenhagen Jazz Festival is one of the largest and most respected music events of its kind in Europe and serves as a rendezvous for trades people, jazz enthusiasts and culture-minded folks in general. It takes place all over the Danish capital.

The many free, outdoor concerts around town are one of the festival’s special features and help to make Copenhagen Jazz Festival the city’s most important public festival. In addition, the festival has made the presentation of jazz in unique surroundings its trademark. Thus the public is able to enjoy concerts in the city’s best concert halls, on an old, East-German trawler, in a disused printing plant and Carlsberg Brewery’s venerable, stately gardens. Copenhagen Jazz Festival also provides an excellent occasion for experiencing the city itself - from its best side. www.jazz.dk/en/ London, Victoria and Albert Museum

British Design 1948–2012: Innovation in the Modern Age Until 12 August In 1948 London hosted the first Olympic Games after the Second World War. The "Austerity Games" (as they became known) took place at a time of economic crisis in a city devastated by bombing, but they provided a platform for reconciliation and reconstruction. In 2012 Britain welcomes the Olympics once more, and while the spirit remains, the context in which they are taking place has entirely changed. British Design 1948–2012 traces those changes by exploring buildings, objects, images and ideas produced by designers and artists born, trained or based in Britain.

The festival pays tribute to the freedom and fluctuations of jazz music as an art form and its treatment of musical aesthetics. It is a necessity for jazz to try something new, while preserving its more classical expression - that is the basis for its enduring success, making it capable of seducing new audiences, year after year. 29


Eur opean Capital of Culture

! E T I R Z E R NE p ! S T H g I L HIgH IN ODER MED NEBOM

o združuje eleganc kot umetnost, ki k pa am o, lin cip o dis tvo: ne kot športn . Doživite konjeniš močjo gledališča no gič ma z a es nce konjskega tel mbines the elega an art form that co ica as mN t ka bu e, om lin Dr cip po Hi orts dis ianism: not as a sp experience equestr of theatre. gic ma the th wi s of equine bodie icA hiPPOdROme KAmN

22. JUN F: Arhiv Narodni dom

2012

FEStival lEnt

“Festival Lent” je eden izmed pomembnejših slovenskih festivalov in predstavlja eno ključnih kulturno-turističn ih prireditev v sloveniji. po mestu, maribor The “Festival Lent” is one of the most impor tant slovenian festivals and represents one of the key cultural-tourist events in slovenia. ARROuNd The ciTy, mARiBOR

ČLOVEKA Z BOMBAMI JUN TWO MEN WITH BOMBS

2012

GEnEralni pokrovitElji / GEnEral SponSorS:

umetniška akcija človeka z bombami je poklon avantgardnemu gestusu, ki se je izpostavil, zavzel nepopularno držo, ponudil novo etiko, novo vizijo, nov sistem vrednotenja in imaginacije in postal nova paradigma slovenske umetnosti. otočec, Novo mesto Two men With Bombs is a rock opera and an interactive tribute to Anton Podbevšek, a poet and avant-garde pioneer from Novo mesto who released the homonymous collection of poems in 1925. OTOčec, NOvO mesTO

roCk OTOČEC

ČLOVEKA Z BOMBAMI

07. JUl

26.-27.

F: Arhiv Rock Otoč ec, d.o.o.

F: Arhiv Anton Podbevšek Teater

ZEMLJO:

ova pot ik n jE n o k JUN HE Way Of THE RIdER (La VOIE dE L‘écuyER) 2012 T

FEStival lEnt

F: Agathe Poupen

ey

konjEnikova pot

12.-14.

28. JUN 01. JUl

2012

ROCK OTOČEC Pestro koncertno do gajanje bodo dopo lnjevale najrazličnejše delav nice, natečaji in tek movanja. otočec, Novo me sto The concerts will be accompanied by va rious workshops, contests, and comp etitions. OTOčec, NOvO me sTO

Nakup vstopNic mogoč Na ticket purchase at www.maribor2012.eu www.eventim.si

www.maribor2012.eu


This year we celebrate our 15th Anniversary. So on behalf of all our Member Airlines, who are committed to working hard for you, now and in the future, I’d like to say thank you.

Mark Schwab, CEO Star Alliance Services GmbH.

Come and celebrate with us from 14th May 2012 at staralliance.com

Information correct as at 18APR12

Ta oglas je zaradi ohranitve neposrednosti in avtentiÄ?nosti besedila in ker je besedilo zlasti namenjeno tujim bralcem, natisnjen v angleĹĄkem jeziku.


NLB Klik

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Odslej lahko naročite svojo najlepšo NLB Plačilno kartico MasterCard in/ali Visa, kar prek računalnika. Vse, kar potrebujete, je spletna banka NLB Klik in dostop do interneta.

izdatke, sklenete depozit, naročite spremembo limita na osebnem računu, nakazujete denar na varčevalni račun, naročite trajno obremenitev, varnostne SMS-e in še marsikaj. Prihranili boste čas in denar.

Prek NLB Klika lahko opravite tudi večino ostalih bančnih storitev: plačujete položnice in ostale obveznosti, spremljate vaše prejemke in

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www.nlb.si/klik

Kontaktni center 01 477 20 00


038

adrijin

POTNIK BESEDILO: Matjaž potokar FOTOGRAFIJE: Miha fras

Robert Waltl >> direktor in umetniški vodja Mini teatra

»Ni napačnih vlog. Z vsako, ki sem si jo izbral ali jo je predme postavilo življenje, sem nekaj pridobil, se nečesa naučil. So samo slabe ali dobre predstave,« pravi Robert Waltl. Njegove dosedanje vloge so res zelo različne. Je direktor in umetniški vodja Mini teatra, predsednik UNIME – Društva slovenskih lutkovnih umetnikov in prijateljev lutk, igralec in lutkar (če je to dvoje potrebno ločiti), režiser, kulturni animator, pa tudi menedžer, oblikovalec in povezovalec kulturnega ter urbanega prostora, dedek Mraz in Miklavž, če naštejem samo nekatere njegove vloge.

Katera od množice vlog, ki jih igrate, vam je najbolj pri srcu?

Pogosto potujete?

Težko bi oddvojil eno od druge. Povezujejo se med sabo, ene ustvarjalcem bolj zagotavljajo pogoje za delo, v drugih sem sam kreativec. V kreativnem delu se v zadnjih letih bolj kot igri posvečam režiji, saj sem v tem času režiral preko šestdeset predstav. In to ni malo. V povprečju delam petnajst ur na dan, največ energije od naštetih vlog pa mi, žal, jemlje vsakodnevna borba za denar, ki ga gledališče potrebuje za svojo dejavnost. Umetniško v zadnjih desetih letih zagotovo ne morem mimo svoje monodrame B. M. Koltesa »Noč čisto na koncu gozdov« in prve virtualne lutkovne predstave na svetu »Palčica«, ki sem jo režiral in odigral na številnih festivalih že v dvaindvajsetih jezikih. Gotovo pa me je prepoznavno oblikovala tudi vloga dedka Mraza, ki jo igram že dvajset let in po kateri sem morda najbolj znan v širšem slovenskem prostoru.

Po naravi sem radoveden in rad potujem. Z našimi predstavami sem obiskal že vse kontinente, še raje pa v drugih kulturnih okoljih oblikujem nove predstave. Trenutno režiram v Belorusiji, po Hrvaški in Bosni, sodeloval sem tudi z Buljanom pri režijah in študijskih projektih v newyorški LaMaMi, v Umbriji, Franciji. Kamorkoli pridem, se počutim kot doma in uživam v različnosti. Moje trenutno veselje je projekt Puppet Nomad Academy. To je vseevropski projekt antičnega prenašanja znanj od starejših na mlajše, od bolj izkušenih na manj izkušene. Slovenski igralci so izjemni, nimajo pa časa za lutkarstvo. S projektom želimo predvsem zbuditi ljubezen do lutk, zato sodelujemo z mojstri iz različnih držav: Slovenije, Hrvaške, Madžarske, Češke, Slovaške, Estonije, Belgije, Armenije, Belorusije in Srbije. Letos končujemo PNA II in


ADRIJIN POTNIK

39


ADRIJIN POTNIK

začenjamo tretjo izdajo, v kateri se nam pridružuje še Nemčija. Pomembno vlogo ima tudi raziskovanje postdramskega gledališča. Mini teater ste začeli v majhni dvoranici na Ljubljanskem gradu? Začel sem na cesti, iz nič. Pred štirinajstimi leti sem najprej zagnal urbani gledališki festival za najmlajše Mini poletje. Če je pokojni Primož Lorenz želel spodbuditi zanimanje za stari del mesta skozi glasbo, sem sam želel oživiti ljubljanska dvorišča, atrije in trge s prireditvami za najmlajše. Že takoj smo jim ponudili več kot 150 brezplačnih predstav, koncertov, delavnic in celo varstvo za otroke. Ena od lokacij je bila tudi Ljubljanski grad. V najem smo dobili klet in jo lastnoročno preuredili v dvorano. Po festivalu nismo nehali in jeseni istega leta uprizorili prvo lastno premiero. Začela sva z Ivico Buljanom kot gledališčem »dveh«, on kot režiser, sam kot igralec in režiser. Do danes smo naredili okrog 100 lastnih predstav, v katerih igra več kot 150 igralcev. Razvijamo različne principe igre, tehnologije lutk, predstav, vanje vključujemo najboljše sodelavce iz Evrope in sveta. Prevladuje koprodukcijski način sodelovanja z gledališči iz nekdanjega jugoslovanskega in evropskega kulturnega prostora; večkulturnost – kot ideja Evrope – v našem gledališču v resnici živi. Naše predstave so hitro prerasle začetno zasnovo predvsem po zahtevnosti. Pravi preboj se je najprej zgodil v tujini, kjer so nas že zgodaj nagrajevali in 40

vabili na pomembne festivale. Sodelovali smo z najbolj eminentnimi režiserji. Doma se nam je odprlo z nagradami na Borštnikovih srečanjih, začenši s Schneewittchen After Party, kasneje z Macbethom po Shakespearu in lani s predstavo Bartleby, pisar. Privilegij Mini teatra je eksperimentiranje, po čemer se ločimo od drugih gledališč. Naš končni cilj je raziskovanje nečesa novega. Mini teater neguje duh skupine, kakršno so razvili Brook, Kantor, Grotowski, Living Theatre. Igralca vključujemo v skupino, sozvočje celote, velikodušnosti do partnerja v ustvarjanju in do občinstva. Kakovost MT dokazujejo tudi nagrade. Še bolj pa ste ponosni na podiranje plotov in povezovanje ex jugoslovanskega kulturnega, pa tudi novega evropskega prostora. Kakovost predstave ni vezana na države. Ideja Mini teatra se je zelo razširila po okolici. Ljudje iz nekdanjega skupnega jugoslovanskega kulturnega prostora nas iščejo, želijo sodelovati, se zgledovati po naših izkušnjah. Mini teater je zasebno gledališče, ki se za razliko od ostalih zasebnih gledališč obrača k umetniškemu in ne h komercialnemu gledališču. Za nas se zanimajo gledališčniki iz Srbije, Madžarske, Francije, Švice, ogledujejo si naš model. Ne, da si ne bi želeli finančno uspešnih predstav, nista pa temu podrejena koncept in program našega gledališča. Z Ivico ga razumeva kot raziskovalni laboratorij. Vanj povabiva vse, ki delijo naše poglede. Našo širino v zadnjem času prepoznavajo tudi v Bruslju.


ADRIJIN POTNIK

Lani ste začeli oživljati Križevniško ulico z enkratno predstavo v počastitev sedemdesetletnice pesnika Tomaža Šalamuna. Že ko smo z mojim in Ivičinim denarjem ter s sredstvi norveškega finančnega mehanizma tu gradili gledališče, sem začel raziskovati Križevniško. Želel sem izvedeti, kdo je tukaj živel. Odkril sem fantastične podatke o teh dvesto metrih ulice, za katero veliko Ljubljančanov sploh ne ve. Tu je živelo veliko pomembnih osebnosti, od Prešerna, Kosovela, Linharta, Valvazorja, kemika in nobelovca Preglja do slikarja Jelovška, kiparja Robbe, mecena Blaža Crobatha, njegove hčere Luize Pesjakove, Čopa, Smoleta, Ane Jelovškove in drugih. Fasciniran sem bil nad Zoisovim krožkom in ljudmi, ki so zahajali v njegovo hišo: od papeža, ki je nekoč obiskal Ljubljano in spal v Zoisovi palači, pa do Metternicha, ki se je udeležil znamenitega ljubljanskega kongresa svete alianse. Našel sem tudi anekdotične zapise iz tistih časov. Metternich je recimo po gostitvi v Zoisovi palači v svojih spominih zapisal, da so bili Zoisova žena in otroci grdi kot sedem smrtnih grehov.

Kakovost predstave ni vezana na države. Ideja Mini teatra se je zelo razširila po okolici. Ljudje iz nekdanjega skupnega jugoslovanskega kulturnega prostora nas iščejo, želijo sodelovati, se zgledovati po naših izkušnjah.

S prireditvami želimo Ljubljančane zvabiti na ulico, da se družijo in so ponosni na izročilo Križevniške. Postavili smo klopi, posadili drevje in rože. Šalamunova sedemdesetletnica je bila idealna priložnost, da se z Ivico oddolživa temu velikemu svetovljanu. Performans pa je pomagal odkriti vse skrite kotičke, ki jih ponuja Križevniška z okolico. 41


ADRIA PASSENGER TEXT: matjaž potokar PHOTOGRAPHY: miha fras

Robert Waltl >> managing and Artistic Director of Mini teater

“There are no wrong roles. Every role that I have chosen or that life has chosen for me has given me something, taught me something. There are only bad or good shows,” says Robert Waltl. His roles up to date could not have been more diverse. He is the managing and artistic director of Mini teater, president of the Slovenian branch of UNIMA (The Worldwide Puppetry Organisation), actor and puppeteer (two things that go hand in hand), director and coordinator of cultural activities, a manager, designer and integrator of urban space and Dedek Mraz (a Santa Clause-like figure in Slovenian culture) and St. Nicholas, just to list a few of his roles.

Which of the multitude of roles that you play is closest to your heart? It would be difficult for me to separate them into individual roles. They are all interconnected; some of them give artists better conditions for creating, while in others I do the creating myself. As far as creative work goes, I have been focusing on directing rather than acting in recent years – I have directed over sixty shows. That is a lot. On average, I work some fifteen hours per day, but unfortunately most of my energy is expended on the daily struggle for money, which is indispensable for the theatre and its activities. Looking at the artistic side of my work over the last decade, I am proud of my monodrama The Night Just Before the Forests by B. M. Koltes and the world’s first virtual puppet show, Thumbelina, which I directed. I have performed Thumbelina at countless festivals in 22 different languages. Last but not least, I have obviously been greatly shaped and influenced by the role of Dedek Mraz, whom I have been playing for two decades now. This role is perhaps what I am best known for among the general public in Slovenia. Do you travel often? I am naturally curious, and I love to travel. I have taken our shows to every single continent, but my favourite thing to do is create new shows in other cultural environments. I am currently directing in Belarus, Croatia and Bosnia; together with Ivica Buljan, I have participated in directing and study projects at the La MaMa in New York, in Umbria, in France … I feel at home anywhere I go. I just enjoy the differences, the diversity. My biggest pleasure at the moment is the Puppet Nomad Academy. This pan-European project takes its cues from Antiquity and aims to facilitate the transfer of knowledge from older people to younger, from the more experienced to the less. 42

Slovenian actors are magnificent, but they have no time for puppetry. With this project, we are looking to awaken the love of puppets in people and to this end we are working with master puppeteers from a number of countries: Slovenia, Croatia, Hungary, Czech Republic, Slovakia, Estonia, Belgium, Armenia, Belarus and Serbia. In 2012, we are wrapping up PNA II and getting started on the third stage, where we will be joined by Germany. Exploration of postdramatic theatre also plays an important role. Is it true that you started Mini teater in a small hall in the Ljubljana Castle? I started on the street, from nothing. Fourteen years ago, I established an urban theatre festival for children, Mini poletje (Mini Summer). In the same way that the late Primož Lorenz was looking to reawaken the interest in the old part of town through music, I wanted to revive the courtyards, gardens and squares of Ljubljana through children’s events. As soon as we started, we were offering over 150 free shows, concerts, workshops and even a babysitting service. The Ljubljana Castle was one of the venues. We hired the basement, took matters into our own hands and converted the basement into a hall. After the festival ended, we just kept going, and in autumn that year, the first of our very own shows premiered. Ivica Buljan and I started out as “a theatre of two” – he directed, I acted and directed. Up until today, we have put on some 100 of our own shows featuring over 150 actors. We develop various principles of acting, puppet technology and shows, and we include in them the best partners from Europe and the rest of the world. Our main mode of collaboration is co-production with theatres from the former Yugoslav and European cultural space. Multiculturalism as the idea behind Europe is actually alive in our theatre. Our shows quickly outgrew the original premise, particularly in complexity. The first breakthrough

happened abroad – very soon, we started receiving awards and invitations to important festivals. We worked with eminent directors. In Slovenia, things took off with awards we received at various Borštnik Theatre Festivals, starting with Schneewittchen After Party, followed by Macbeth after Shakespeare and last year’s Bartleby, the Scrivener. Mini teater has the privilege of being able to experiment; that is what sets us apart from other theatres. Our aim is always to explore something new. Mini teater nurtures the group spirit developed by Brook, Kantor, Grotowskiand the Living Theatre. An actor becomes part of the group, a contributor to the harmony of the whole, a recipient of the generosity of his or her creative partner and of the audience. The many awards are proof of MT’s quality. But there is something that makes you even prouder: breaking down fences and establishing connections within the former Yugoslav cultural space, as well as the new European space. The quality of a show is not linked to a particular country. The concept of Mini teater has expanded throughout the region. People from the once shared Yugoslav cultural space are contacting us, looking to collaborate with us and to follow our example, learn from our experience. Mini teater is a privately owned theatre, but unlike other private theatres, its focus is art rather than commercial drama. Theatre people from Serbia, Hungary, France and Switzerland are all expressing interest in us and looking at our model of operation. Of course we want our shows to be financially successful, but we will not compromise on the concept and programme in order to achieve that. Ivica and I see our theatre as a research lab. Anyone who shares our views is welcome here. Our reputation has recently been recognised even in Brussels.


ADRIA PASSENGER

As soon as we started, we were offering over 150 free shows, concerts, workshops and even a babysitting service.

Last year you temporarily brought life back to the Križevniška ulica Street through a one-off show honouring the 70th birthday of poet Tomaž Šalamun. My explorations of Križevniška started while we were still building our theatre here, using Ivica’s money, my money and funds from the Norwegian Financial Mechanism. I wanted to find out who lived here. I discovered some fantastic information about this street, these 200 m that most people in Ljubljana have probably never even heard of. So many important figures lived here – from poets and writers Prešeren, Kosovel, Linhart, Čop, Smole and Valvasor to chemist and Nobel Prize winner Pregl, painter Jelovšek, sculptor Robba, patron of the arts Blaž Crobath and his daughter Luiza Pesjakova, Ane Jelovšek and others. I was fascinated by the Zois circle and the many people who visited his house – including the pope, who once visited Ljubljana and spent the night in the Zois mansion, and Metternich, who came to attend the famous Congress of Laibach (the modern Ljubljana), a conference of the Holy Alliance. I have also uncovered a number of anecdotes from those days. After his visit to the Zois mansion, for instance, Metternich wrote in his memoirs that Zois’s wife and children were as ugly as sin! Our hope is that these events will bring the people of Ljubljana out on the street, where they can meet and socialise. We want them to be proud of the history of Križevniška. We have put up benches, planted trees and flowers. Šalamun’s 70th birthday was the perfect opportunity for Ivica and I to repay this great, cosmopolitan man. Meanwhile, the performance helped us to discover the many hidden corners of Križevniška and the surrounding area.

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044

Dunaj, Dunaj, samo ti ‌, govori tekst znane pesmice, ki opeva vsem znano prelepo mesto ob Donavi. Kdo pozna to evropsko prestolnico bolje kot tisti, ki tja pogosto odhajajo in se tudi vedno znova vraÄ?ajo? Ena takih zvestih obiskovalk je Adrijina stevardesa Manca KnafliÄ?. Zaupala nam je nekaj vtisov in koristnih namigov o Dunaju.


FOTOGRAFIJE: Miško kranjec

Wien, Wien, nur du allein ...


Avstrijska prestolnica je res nekaj posebnega, vsak lahko najde tam kaj zase. Dunaj je privlačen za ljubitelje umetnosti, glasbe, zgodovine, za sladokusce … Vendar moramo malce spremeniti Krpanovo misel »Če greš na Dunaj, moraš postiti trebuh zunaj!« Namreč – če greš na Dunaj, nikakor ne smeš pustiti trebuha zunaj, saj človeka na vsakem koraku čaka kaj slastnega. Pa nikar ne hodite v to mesto samo za en dan, saj bi bil greh, če ne bi vsaj malo začutili mestnega vrveža. Okusiti morate kulinarične specialitete, slišati Straußov valček in se v mislih vrniti v čas monarhije in blaginje. Seveda pa ne gre brez nakupa kakšne malenkosti, ogleda številnih muzejev, dvorcev in palač, ki pričajo o bogati zgodovini Habsburžanov. Dunajčani so še vedno zelo ponosni na svojo preteklost in jo radi razkazujejo. Dunaj je čudovit v vseh letnih časih: spomladi, ko zacveti na tisoče meni tako ljubih vrtnic; poleti, ko se mesto spremeni v letovišče in lenobno vzdušje v starih kavarnah spominja na nek drugačen, pretekli čas. Vožnja s ’fijakarjem’ nas popelje v bogate čase monarhije, topot konjskih kopit obljublja nepozabno doživetje avstrijske prestolnice. Pozimi pa, ko v predbožičnem času zaživijo sejmi z neštetimi stojnicami, si greješ roke s kozarcem punča med sprehodom iz Schönbrunna do Gloritte. Ko sem na Dunaju, se nikakor ne morem odreči slastnemu dunajskemu zrezku, ki ga najbolje pripravijo v legendarni gostilni Figlmüller, kjer je v času sezone brez rezervacije zelo težko dobiti prosto mesto. Pisan mozaik govoric z vsega sveta izpričuje, da sega sloves gostilne daleč onkraj meja domovine.

Zrezek, ki ti ga postrežejo, je nepozaben: značilno tanek in ogromen presega krožnikov premer, kot bi želel kljubovati sodobnim smernicam malih porcij na ogromnih krožnikih; s pregovorno najboljšo skorjico v mestu (drobtine so iz posebnih žemljic, ki jih pečejo samo za Figlmüller), z rezinico limone in skledo krompirjeve solate z bučnim oljem. Božansko! V Figlmüllerju ne boste našli piva in sladic, imajo pa zato prvovrstno vinsko karto in vsega le ducat jedi prvorazredne kakovosti. Uglajeni natakarji, gospodje pri poznih petdesetih v elegantnih oblekah, poskrbijo, da je obedovanje v eni najstarejših krčem v mestu nepozabno doživetje. Mestnemu vrvežu se najraje umaknem v eno od mnogih galerij. Letos so ob 150-letnici rojstva secesijskega umetnika Gustava Klimta na različnih prizoriščih pripravili vznemirljive razstave. Leopold Museum tako predstavlja Klimtova dela iz svoje lastne zbirke, dopolnjena z deli iz pomembnih avstrijskih in mednarodnih zbirk. Najbolj so me navdušili Klimtovi komentarji, njegove opombe, s katerimi so dela opremljena; tako se je med ogledom odvijal zanimiv dialog med mojo interpretacijo in Klimtovim videnjem lastnih stvaritev. Za ogled meni najljubšega Poljuba pa še skok do gradu Belvedere.

!

Adria leti na liniji LJUBLJANA DUNAJ 3 krat dnevno


Wien, Wien, nur du allein ... PHOTOGRAPHY: miško kranjec

Vienna, Vienna, only you ... are the lyrics of a famous song about a famous and magnificent city on the Danube. Who could be more familiar with this European capital than the people who travel there often and never stay away for long? One such loyal visitor is Adria Airways flight attendant Manca Knaflič. Here she shares some of her impressions and insider tips on Vienna.

48

The Austrian capital is truly something special. There is something for everyone here. Vienna appeals to lovers of art, music, history, good food … However, literary hero Martin Krpan’s advice – “If you are going to Vienna, leave your belly at the door!” – should be altered slightly. If you are going to Vienna, the last thing you should do is leave your belly at the door, because there is something delicious waiting for you at every step. And you should spend more than just one day in the city – it would really be a shame not to experience the city life properly. You have to taste the local cuisine, hear a waltz by Strauss and let your imagination wander back to the time of the monarchy, with its splendour and opulence. Of course you should also buy a little something and visit some of the many museums, mansions and palaces that testify to the rich history of the Habsburgs. The people of Vienna are still very proud of their past, and they love to show it off.


you should spend more than just one day in the city – it would really be a shame not to experience the city life properly.

Vienna is magnificent in every season: in spring, when thousands of roses that I love so dearly are in bloom; in summer, when the city transforms into a holiday resort and the lazy atmosphere in old coffeehouses evokes memories of a different era that is long gone. A carriage ride reminds us of wealthy monarchs who once ruled here, and the sound of horse hooves promises an unforgettable experience in the Austrian capital. And then there is the winter season, the time before Christmas when the city is alive with traditional Christmas fairs and you can buy a glass of punch to warm your hands as you walk through Schönbrunn to the Gloriette. Whenever I am in Vienna, I simply have to treat myself to a delicious Vienna-style steak. The finest steaks are served at the legendary Figlmüller Restaurant; if you are in Vienna during high season, make a reservation as it is virtually impossible to get a table without one. The hubbub of languages from all over the world shows that the reputation of this restaurant far exceeds the borders of Austria. You will never forget the steak that you eat there: characteristically thin and enormous, it hangs over the edge of the plate as if to spite the modern trend of tiny portions on huge plates; the steak has the best crust in town (the crumbs are made from buns baked specially for Figlmüller) and it comes with a slice of lemon and a bowl of potato salad with pumpkinseed oil. Divine! You will not find beer or desserts at Figlmüller, but they do have a first rate wine list; they only offer about half a dozen of dishes, but every one of them is exceptionally good. The courteous waiters – gentlemen in their late 50s, dressed in elegant suits – will make sure that your lunch at one of the oldest restaurants in Vienna is an experience that you will cherish forever. To get away from the bustling city streets, I like to visit one of the many galleries in Vienna. This year, in celebration of the 150th anniversary of the birth of Art Nouveau artist Gustav Klimt, a number of exciting exhibitions have been organised at various locations. The Leopold Museum houses an exhibition of Klimt’s art from its permanent collection, with added works from other important Austrian and international collections. The thing that I enjoyed most was Klimt’s commentary, his notes that accompany the paintings; they led to an interesting dialogue between my personal interpretation and Klimt’s perception of his own creations. And finally, a quick visit to the Belvedere Castle to see my favourite – The Kiss.

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Adria flies between LJUBLJANA&VIENNA 3 times daily


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»Prost!« odmeva iz vseh kotičkov Wachaua, približno 35 km dolge doline ob Donavi, do koder je dobro uro vožnje s cesarskega Dunaja.


prestolnica romantike besedilo in fotografije: SAŠA SUHADOLNIK

Wachau, idilična destinacija, velja za eno najstarejših in najlepših vinskih območij v Evropi, kjer se toči najboljše belo vino, ki ga premorejo naši sosedje. Povrhu tega ta očarljiva pokrajina uživa zaščito Unesca, zato ostaja prepredena z romantičnimi mesteci, pol porušenimi gradovi in skrivnostnimi samostani, ki burijo domišljijo. Dovolj razlogov torej, da sem se tja odpravila na kozarček ... Ob obisku Wachaua ne gre brez obveznega postanka v kakšnem izmed simpatičnih lokalnih »heurigenov« oziroma po naše – vinotočev pod vejo. Ta mala družinsko vodena »podjetja«, na pročeljih katerih se ponavadi vzpenja vsaj sto let stara trta, so prava zakladnica ne le odličnega vina, pač pa tudi nenavadnih zgodb in pisanih vaških junakov. Ko pokukamo v njihov svet, dobimo občutek, kot bi stopili nazaj v čas. Ženski je prostor še vedno namenjen le za štedilnikom, lokalni barčki so ponosni na še vedno ločene prostore za moške in ženske. Zakaj že? Moški so krepki, ponavadi zardelih lic in prav radi vam povedo kakšno anekdoto. Z dvignjenim kozarcem hitijo razlagat, da so prvo trto zasadili v teh krajih že Rimljani, prvo letino pa pridelali menihi, ki so v času strogega vladanja Marije Terezije lahko edini proizvajali alkohol. Seveda le v verske namene. »Danes, hvala bogu, takih omejitev ni več,« se zakrohota Walter, lastnik enega izmed dvesto vinotočev v tej mali dolini. »Danes sami

poskrbimo, da je naše vino nekaj posebnega,« še doda in mi razloži, da z izjemo ene same vinoteke lokalni vinogradniki služijo izključno s prodajo obiskovalcem, ki se ustavijo pri njih. Njihovega vina zato ne najdemo niti v najbolj imenitnih restavracijah Dunaja. Kakšna ekskluzivnost! In gredo še dalje: imajo svoje združenje vinarjev in poseben romantičen način razvrstitve vin, ki ga ne najdemo nikjer drugje na svetu. Tako so recimo kategorijo vina z največ alkohola poimenovali Smaragd po majhnih wachauskih zelenih kuščarjih, ki se tako kot grozdi radi grejejo na soncu. Ob taki prispodobi se ti vsako vino zdi še boljše. Splača se tudi poizvedeti, kaj izbrati z vinske karte. Odgovor na to vprašanje je bil povsod soglasen: absolutno belo – zeleni veltlinec, rumeni muškat ali rizling. Rdeče vino tu močno zaostaja v kvaliteti, kar ni presenetljivo, če se ozreš po terasastih vinogradih – skalnata, hribovita pokrajina narekuje uspeh belih sort. In odličnega belega vina, kot sem kmalu ugotovila. Škandali, tatovi in izkopane kosti A kaj je tisto, kar Wachau poleg res spektakularne pokrajine in prvovrstnega vina loči od drugih vinskih pokrajin? Marsikdo bi se strinjal, da njena pestra, na trenutke kar precej čudaška zgodovina. V njej prav gotovo zaseda prvo vrsto tako imenovani »škandal z antifrizom«. Da, prav ste prebrali. Pred tridesetimi leti je poskušalo nekaj 51


wachau, prestolnica romantike

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wachau, prestolnica romantike

wachauskih »iznajdljivcev« pridelati zelo drago in sladko ledeno vino. To vino zahteva zmrzal, ki pa je zaradi blage klime v Wachauu ni, in tako so prišli na idejo, da bi sladkost vina dosegli z dodajanjem antifriza. Ni treba posebej poudariti, da je po razkritju prevare sledil velik škandal in avstrijsko vinogradništvo je potrebovalo leta, da si je opomoglo. Toda na srečo se je na koncu stvar izkazala kot pozitivna. Od takrat se v Wachauu prav zaradi te sramote še toliko bolj trudijo, da pridelajo vino le najboljše kvalitete – seveda brez »antifriza«. Tega menda dodajajo le še porednim turistom. Česa takega nisem želela preizkusiti, zato sem kot pridna turistka nadaljevala raziskovanje v prikupnem mestecu Dürnstein, ki se ponaša z edino modro katoliško cerkvico daleč naokoli. »Ste gledali film Robin Hood s Kevinom Costnerjem? Se spomnite, da se ob koncu filma pojavi angleški kralj Richard Levjesrčni in ga vsi sprašujejo, kje se je mudil? No, verjemite ali ne, Richard je bil takrat v Wachauu!« vzhičeno razlaga lokalni vodič tega mesteca in nam pokaže pravljične razvaline nekdanjega gradu Dürnstein, kjer naj bi bil Richard preživel nekaj svojih zaporniških dni. Če je verjeti legendi in vodiču, naj bi bil pogumnega kralja Richarda ob vrnitvi iz križarskih vojn tja zaprl njegov sovražnik. Richard je bil izpuščen iz zapora po plačani odkupnini, toda medtem ko je nekaj mesecev iz svoje celice užival fantastičen razgled na hribčke, posejane s trto, se je že zaljubil v Wachau. Po izpustitvi je zato tam ostal ter užival v vinu in dekletih. Posledice tega so še vedno prisotne, kajti če se danes zaljubite na terasah Wachaua, se zna zgoditi, da bo vaš izbranec potomec Richarda Levjesrčnega.

V Wachauu marsikdo pusti svoje srce. Tudi znameniti italijanski pisatelj Umberto Eco si je za prizorišče v svojem najbolj znanem romanu Ime rože izbral prav wachauski samostan Melk. Ne moreš mu zameriti, samostan je resnično eden najlepših na svetu, in ko se sprehajaš po njegovi znameniti knjižnici, ki hrani več kot sto tisoč knjig, tudi sam v mislih kuješ srednjeveške spletke. Wachau je v vsakem pogledu bogata dolina. Vrednost nepremičnine tu zlahka doseže milijon evrov, a domačini kljub temu ostajajo preprosti. Ni sledu o razkošnih avtomobilih in dragih oblačilih, proste dni vsi preživljajo doma. Danes služijo predvsem na račun vina in turizma, a tudi pred nekaj stoletji so v teh krajih že znali »pošteno« obogateti. Brutalni baroni, ki so živeli v gradovih ob Donavi, so od ladij, ki so plule mimo, zahtevali plačilo in v primeru, če si jih zavrnil, so ti prijazno ponudili na izbiro: stradati do smrti ali skočiti v smrt. Ni kaj, »prijetni« časi. Podobno pretresljiva je še danes cerkvica sv. Mihaela, ki se nahaja prav na sredi wachauske doline in ima izredno majhno in čudovito urejeno pokopališče. Še nedolgo nazaj so tam pokopavali vaščane, a le začasno. Ko je na pokopališču zmanjkalo prostora, so pokojne preprosto odkopali in kosti prestavili v kostnico ter s tem naredili prostor za nove. Kosti so še vedno na ogled, sicer le skozi majhno špranjo velikih masivnih vrat, a že to je dovolj, da se ti postavijo kocine pokonci.

Romantično, oranžno in dišeče Wachau je poseben še iz enega razloga. Tu so poleg trte doma tudi marelice. Preko sto tisoč mareličnih dreves uspeva v tej magični dolini in iz marelic so domačini ustvarili pravo tržno nišo. Prikupne majhne trgovinice so na vsakem koraku in ponujajo vse iz marelic – marelični liker in žganje, marelično čokolado in milo ter seveda odlično marelično marmelado in grenčico. Zaradi marelic se splača priti v te kraje spomladi, ko drevesa zacvetijo v vsem svojem sijaju, ali pa julija, ko oranžno obarvajo dolino – vonj in razgled sta takrat res nekaj posebnega. Sama sem želela doživeti Wachau v najlepši luči, zato sem se podala na pot s kolesom. Skozi dolino namreč poteka znamenita 200-kilometrska kolesarska pot od nemškega Passaua do Dunaja in prav kilometri, ki se vijejo skozi prekrasne vinograde, so najbolj vredni truda. Na kolesu ti hitro postane jasno, zakaj je Wachau priljubljena destinacija za poroke. Za navdušene fotografe je raj, »škljocaš« lahko na vsakem koraku, a te je hkrati strah, da fotografije ne bodo uspele zajeti naravne lepote, ki jo vidi oko.

Nič ne de, še vedno si lahko utrgaš grozd, privoščiš skok v Donavo in si vtisneš te trenutke v spomin. Za drugič. 53


Wachau, THE HOME OF ROMANCE

Wachau, the Home of Romance TEXT AND PHOTOGRAPHY: SAŠA SUHADOLNIK

Shouts of “Prost!” echo from every corner of Wachau, a valley that stretches along the Danube for some 35km. From Vienna, it can be reached by car in just over an hour. The idyllic Wachau is widely regarded as one of Europe’s oldest and most beautiful wine-growing areas, producing the finest white wine in Austria. To top it off, this charming landscape is a protected Unesco site, scattered with romantic towns, half-ruined castles and mysterious monasteries that stir the imagination. Plenty of reasons, then, for me to head there for a glass of wine … When visiting Wachau, stopping in a charming local “Heuriger” – a tavern serving its own wine of the most recent year – is a must. In addition to this, these small family “companies”, usually found in 54

buildings covered in hundred-year-old vines, are veritable treasure troves of unusual stories and colourful local characters. Take a peek into their world and you will feel as though you have travelled back in time. Here, women still belong in the kitchen and local bars are proud of having separate rooms for men and women. Why is this? The local men – strong, stout, usually red-faced – will be happy to share an anecdote with you. Raising their glass, they will explain that the first vines were planted here by the ancient Romans, while the first wine was produced by monks, the only people to hold alcohol licences under the strict rule of Maria Theresa. Strictly for religious purposes, of course. “Thank God those laws no longer apply today,” Walter laughs; he is the owner of one of about two hundred wine taverns in this small valley. “Nowadays, we ourselves make sure that our wine is special,” he adds and explains that, with the exception of a single wine cellar, local wine-growers make a living exclusively by selling wine to visitors who stop by. Their wines can’t even be found in the finest restaurants in Vienna. That is real exclusivity! But they have gone even further: they have founded their own wine-growers’ association and use a particularly romantic and unique system for classifying wines. For instance, the category of wine with the highest alcohol content is named Smaragd (Emerald) after the tiny Wachau lizards that love the sun just as much as the local grapes do. Metaphors such as this make any wine taste better. It is also worth asking for a recommendation from the wine list. Everywhere, the answer was unanimous: absolutely a white wine – Grüner Veltliner, Yellow Muscat or Riesling. Local red wines lag far behind in quality, which is hardly surprising; look around the terraced vineyards and you will see rocky, hilly terrain, ideal for white wines. Excellent white wines, as I would soon discover.

Scandals, Thieves and Bare Bones Other than the truly spectacular landscape and first-rate wine, what is it that makes Wachau different from any other wine-growing region? Most people would agree that it is the colourful and sometimes frankly bizarre history, in which pride of place undoubtedly goes to what is known as the “antifreeze scandal”. Yes, you read right. Thirty years ago, a group of particularly resourceful Wachauers attempted to produce a very expensive and sweet ice wine. But in order to produce ice wine, you need frost, and Wachau has a mild climate. So the idea came to make wine sweeter by adding antifreeze. When the scheme was uncovered, it naturally caused considerable scandal and it took Austrian wine-growers many years to recover their reputation. But fortunately the final outcome was a positive one. Ever since the scandal, the shame has made Wachauers work even harder to produce only the finest quality wine – without any help from antifreeze, of course. Nowadays, it is only used to spice up the drinks of the most obnoxious tourists. Not wanting to experience anything of that sort, I remained on my best behaviour and continued my explorations in Dürnstein, a charming town boasting the only blue Catholic church far and wide. “Have you seen Robin Hood, the movie starring Kevin Costner? Remember when English king Richard the Lionheart appears at the end of the movie and everybody is wondering where he’d been? Believe it or not, Richard the Lionheart spent that time in Wachau!” says a local guide, bursting


wachau, THE HOME OF ROMANCE

Take a peek into their world and you will feel as though you have travelled back in time. with excitement as he shows us around the fairytale-like remains of what was once Dürnstein Castle. Richard the Lionheart is said to have spent some time in jail here. If legend and our tour guide are to be believed, the brave King Richard, returning home from the Crusades, was incarcerated in Dürnstein castle by an enemy. After receiving the ransom money, King Richard was released but, having spent several months in a prison cell offering magnificent views over the nearby hills covered in vines, he had already fallen in love with Wachau. After his release, he stayed in Wachau for a while, enjoying the local wines and women. The consequences of his stay are still evident today: fall in love on the terraces of Wachau and it could very well be that your chosen one is a descendant of Richard the Lionheart. Many people have left their heart in Wachau. Even the famous Italian author Umberto Eco chose the Wachau monastery of Melk as the setting of his most widely known novel, The Name of the Rose. And who could blame him? Melk is truly one of the most beautiful monasteries in the world; walking around its famous library, home to over 100,000 books, one can’t help dreaming up various medieval schemes. Wachau is a rich valley in every sense of the word.

The value of property here easily climbs to a million euros, but despite everything, the locals remain modest. There is no trace of luxury cars or expensive clothing; holidays are usually spent at home. Today, people here make most of their money from wine and tourism, but even some centuries ago they knew how to earn an “honest” living. The merciless barons who lived in the castles along the Danube demanded payment from passing boats and ships. If you turned them down, they kindly offered you two choices: to starve to death or plunge to death. Ah, the good old days! The church of St. Michael offers a similarly jarring experience. Located in the very centre of the Wachau valley, this church has a tiny but beautifully maintained graveyard. Until recently, deceased villagers were still buried here – but only temporarily. When there was no more room in the graveyard, they would simply exhume the remains and move the bones to an ossuary in order to make room for new burials. The exhumed bones can still be seen today, though you can only catch a glimpse of them through a small crack in the large, solid door, but that is enough to make your hair stand on end. Romantic, Orange and Fragrant There is something else that makes Wachau so

special. In addition to vines, this is also the home of apricots. There are over 100,000 apricot trees growing in this magical valley and the locals have successfully established a marketing niche. There are charming little shops at every step, selling everything that can possibly be made from apricots – apricot liqueur and spirits, apricot chocolate, apricot soap and, obviously, superb apricot marmalade and apricot brandy. It is worth coming to Wachau in the spring when the apricot trees are in full bloom or in July to see the whole valley glowing orange – the fragrance and the view are truly unforgettable. Wanting to experience Wachau in the best possible way, I set off on a cycling trip. There is a famous 200km cycle route from Passau in Germany to Vienna in Austria that leads through the valley. The route twists and turns through these magnificent vineyards, repaying you for your effort and making it all worthwhile. Cycling through Wachau, you will soon discover why it is such a popular wedding destination. This is a paradise for photography enthusiasts; you can snap away at every step and still worry that your photographs will never capture all the natural beauty that your eyes can see. But never mind; you can still pluck a grape, take a swim in the Danube and save these special moments in your mind. For next time. 55


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VELIKO SRCE

MINI TEATRA BESEDILO: matja탑 potokar FOTOGRAFIJE: Miha Fras


Zasebna gledališča v Sloveniji niso več redkost, repertoarno umetniška pač. Mini teater je eno redkih GLEDALIŠČ, ki svojo prepoznavnost gradi na programu in kakovosti. Vse to dokazujejo nagrade in želja po povezovanju s podobnimi idejami v širšem evropskem prostoru.

V zadnjih letih je teater s Križevniške eno največkrat nagrajenih gledališč v Sloveniji. Enkrat so njihove predstave bolj namenjene otrokom kot odraslim, bolj eliti kot množicam in bolj ekscentrikom kot ostalim, drugič pa je ravno obratno. Na prvi pogled zgleda vse skupaj kot paradoks, v resnici pa gledališče deluje odlično in uspešno. In kaj pomeni odlično delovanje? Vsekakor dejstva, da so lani spravili pod streho več kot 240 uprizoritev za otroke, 90 predstav za odrasle in skupaj privabili več kot 70.000 gledalcev. Predstave so pogosto razprodane, Sapramiška Svetlane Makarovič je doživela že stoto ponovitev. In nagrade? Kakovosten program že nekaj let zapored pobira najvišje nagrade na Borštnikovem srečanju in drugih najpomembnejših letnih pregledih domače gledališke bere. Ker ni prerokov v domovini, pomenijo odlično delovanje tudi številna gostovanja po Evropi in Severni Ameriki. Gostovanje predstave Macbeth po Shakespearu v kultnem newyorškem gledališču La MaMa prav gotovo sodi med bolj prestižno. Gledališki paradoks presega ljubezen do otrok in njihovih ustvarjalnih potreb ter inovativni in kontroverzni postdramski program.

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Danes je Mini teater pojem sodobnega in kakovostnega repertoarnega gledališča za vse generacije.

Mini teater je nastal pred štirinajstimi leti iz poletnega otroškega festivala. Na Ljubljanskem gradu so Waltl in zanesenjaki najprej sami uredili zapuščeno dvorano. Za izvedbo festivala ob prelomu tisočletja je Waltl prodal družinsko dragocenost, sliko Ivana Groharja. Vsi nastopajoči, brez izjeme, pa so se odpovedali honorarjem. Ljubiteljem gledališča in slikarja Groharja se ob tem gotovo naježi koža. Po prvem festivalu so ostali v dvorani na gradu in začeli uprizarjati lastne predstave. Še danes jih postavljajo tam, čeprav domujejo tudi v Stari Ljubljani, na Križevniški ena. Kako je dotrajana in zapuščena meščanska hiša v srcu starega mesta postala čudovito adaptiran center za sodobno gledališko umetnost, je dolga zgodba. Zaradi predanosti, trme, organizacijske spretnosti ter norosti Waltla in Buljana postaja vizija iz tunela pod Ljubljanskim gradom, za Lutkovnim gledališčem, resničnost. Danes je Mini teater pojem sodobnega in kakovostnega repertoarnega gledališča za vse generacije.

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V programu za mlado občinstvo posveča teater posebno pozornost inovativnim umetniško-vzgojnim projektom. Predstava Palčica je recimo zasnovana kot prva virtualna predstava na svetu. Računalniška animacija in lutkovna igra si podajata roko. Otroci so navdušeni, saj imajo možnost sooblikovanja predstave. Vsaka situacija je v igri sestavljena iz dveh ali več različnih rešitev. Otroci skupaj z animatorjem določijo potek igre in izberejo značaje za ustrezno situacijo. Andersenova pravljica je oblikovana kot igra z močnim poudarkom na skupinskem, ustvarjalnem delu. Gledališče je s Palčico sodelovalo na več kot tridesetih gostovanjih in festivalih po Evropi, vsakič v jeziku dežele, v kateri je gostovalo. Predstava Pekarna Mišmaš Svetlane Makarovič je danes vedno bolj aktualna zgodba. Pesnica naslika dobroto skromnega peka Mišmaša, ki daje revnim otrokom kruh zastonj.


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veliko srce mini teatra

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veliko srce mini teatra

Če so veliko otroško srce, iznajdljivost in organizacijska energija Roberta Waltla en pol paradoksa Mini teatra, je drugi del paradoksa prav gotovo estetska in programska usmeritev Ivice Buljana. Zlobna in jezična Jedrt pa hoče za vsako ceno izvedeti, kako Mišmašu uspe speči tako dober kruh. Letošnja obnovitev je nastala v okviru mednarodnega evropskega projekta Puppet Nomad Academy II, ki ga podpira kulturni program Evropske komisije. Postdramski del programa je usmerjen k izbranim avtorjem, kot so: J. M. Koltes, H. Miller, J. Genet, E. Jelinek. H. Gulbert , A. Rimbaud, A. S. Puškin in H. C. Andersen. In ko smo pri imenih avtorjev, seveda ne smemo izpustiti današnjih sodelavcev, ki oživljajo gledališče. Tudi na deskah Mini teatra so zasijali: Milena Zupančič, Marko Mandič in Veronika Drolc, Jurij Souček, Ana Karić, Senka Bulić in Janez Pipan, Olga Kacjan … Če so veliko otroško srce, iznajdljivost in organizacijska energija Roberta Waltla en pol paradoksa Mini teatra, je drugi del paradoksa prav gotovo estetska in programska usmeritev Ivice Buljana. Začelo se je z zanimanjem za modernistične pesnike in dramatike, nadaljevalo z gledališkimi kritikami in z dramaturgijami. Danes o Buljanu lahko govorimo kot o enem najboljših evropskih režiserjev tega trenutka. Predaval je na Académie expérimentele des théatres v Parizu, La MaMa School v New Yorku, Bruslju in v Moskvi. Svoje znanje prenaša

na študente v šolah National Théatre v Saint Etiennu in Rennesu v Franciji. Do leta 2002 je bil direktor Hrvaškega narodnega gledališča v Splitu. Je soustanovitelj Mini teatra v Ljubljani ter ustanovitelj in umetniški vodja Svetovnega gledališkega festivala v Zagrebu. Nagradili so ga na Hrvaškem, v Franciji, na Kubi, Slovaškem in seveda v Sloveniji. Kar dvakrat je prejel Borštnikovo nagrado za najboljšo predstavo: leta 2007 za režijo predstave Oedipus Iva Svetine in dve leti kasneje za režijo predstave Heinerja Müllerja Macbeth po Shakespearu. Letos je Ivica Buljan dobil tudi nagrado Prešernovega sklada za režije predstav v zadnjem času. V Mini teatru se vseh priznanj vedno veselijo, a so z njimi tudi pazljivi, saj jih vse nagrade in vsaka posebej zavezujejo. Dobro se jim zdi, da smo Slovenci z letošnjo Prešernovo nagrado Ivici Buljanu spet pokazali, da znamo biti odprti in brez predsodkov. Pa tudi, da opazimo uspešne in prodorne tuje ustvarjalce na naših odrih, čeprav bi o nagrajencu težko govorili kot o tujcu. Kdor vsaj enkrat prestopi prag te pravljične hiše, zlepa ne pozabi topline in dobre energije, ki se kopiči med temi zidovi. Prav takšno je tudi srce tega gledališča. Veliko! In sprehod po Stari Ljubljani gotovo ne bi bil izpolnjen brez obiska Križevniške kulturne četrti, ki v poletnih časih zažari v vsej svoji skrivnostnosti. 61


The Big Heart of Mini Teater TEXT: matjaž potokar PHOTOGRAPHY: miha fras

While privately owned theatres are no longer a rarity in Slovenia, theatres with an art repertory still remain few and far between. Mini teater is one of the few theatres expanding their popularity by focusing on programming and quality.

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This is evident from Mini teater's many awards and the desire to connect with similar ideas throughout Europe. Situated on Križevniška ulica street, Mini teater has become one of Slovenia’s most award winning theatres in recent years. Sometimes their shows are aimed more at children rather than adults, the elite rather than the masses, eccentrics rather than the more conventional – and sometimes it is the other way around. This might seem like a paradox at first glance, but in reality the theatre is functioning perfectly and with considerable success.

programme has been winning the top awards at the Borštnik Theatre Festival and other recognised annual reviews of Slovenian theatre. But a prophet is not without honour except in his own country, so even more telling perhaps are the many guest performances throughout Europe and North America, including prestigious venues such as the cult New York theatre La MaMa, which hosted a guest performance of Macbeth after Shakespeare. The theatre paradox surpasses a mere affection for children and their creative needs, as well as the innovative and controversial post-dramatic programme.

So what does “functioning perfectly” actually mean? For a start, it means that last year they put on more than 240 performances for children and 90 performances for adults, attracting a total of over 70,000 audience members. The shows often sell out; Svetlana Makarovič's Sapramiška has recently celebrated its 100th performance. And the awards? For several years in a row, Mini teater’s quality

Fourteen years ago, Mini teater developed from a summer children’s festival. Waltl and his small band of enthusiasts started by renovating an abandoned hall in the Ljubljana Castle with their own hands. To finance the festival at the end of the last millennium, Waltl even sold a family heirloom – an Ivan Grohar painting – while every single performer waived any appearance fee. This would

undoubtedly horrify theatre and Ivan Grohar fans. Following that first festival, the performers stayed on in the Castle hall and started putting on their own shows. Performances are still staged there today, although the theatre now has a permanent home in the old part of Ljubljana, at Križevniška 1. How does one turn a dilapidated, abandoned building in the heart of the old town into a beautifully adapted centre of modern theatrical art? That is a long story. But thanks to Waltl and Buljan’s dedication, stubbornness and organisational talent, along with a pinch of madness, the vision that first appeared in the tunnel under the Ljubljana Castle, behind the Puppet Theatre, is gradually becoming a reality. Today, Mini teater is synonymous with a modern, high quality repertory theatre for all generations. The programme aimed at a younger audience especially focuses on innovative projects that combine art with an educational aspect. For instance, Thumbelina has been designed as the world’s first virtual show, where computer animation and puppetry go hand in hand. Children love it because they have the opportunity to influence the show. Every situation within the show has two or more possible outcomes. Guided by a coordinator, the children determine how the show will continue and choose the characters for each individual situation. Andersen’s fairy-tale has been


reimagined as a show with a strong emphasis on team work and creativity. Mini teater has taken Thumbelina to over thirty festivals and events throughout Europe, always performing the show in the language of the host country. These days, the story of Svetlana Makarovič’s Mišmaš Bakery is increasingly topical. The poet writes about the kind and humble baker Mišmaš, who hands out free bread to impoverished children. Meanwhile, the mean, malicious Jedrt is willing to go to any length to discover how Mišmaš manages to bake such delicious bread. This year’s reprise is part of Puppet Nomad Academy II, an international European project supported by the European Commission’s culture programme. The post-dramatic portion of the programme is focused on select authors such as J. M. Koltes, H. Miller, J. Genet, E. Jelinek, H. Gulbert , A. Rimbaud, A. S. Pushkin and H. C. Andersen. But we should also include in this list the many artists keeping the theatre alive today. To list just some of the stars who have shone on the Mini teatre stage: Milena Zupančič, Marko Mandič and Veronika Drolc, Jurij Souček, Ana Karić, Senka Bulić and Janez Pipan, Olga Kacjan … If the large, childlike heart, inventiveness and organisational energy of Robert Waltl is half of the paradox that is Mini teater, the second half is completed by Ivica Buljan’s aesthetics and focus on the

programme. It all started with an interest in modernist poets and playwrights and continued with theatre reviews and dramaturgy. Today, Ivica Buljan is arguably one of the best European directors of his time. He has lectured at the Académie expérimentele des théatres in Paris and the La MaMa School in New York, as well as in Brussels and Moscow. He shares his knowledge with students at the National Théatre in Saint Etienne and in Rennes, France. Until 2002, Buljan worked as the managing director of the Croatian National Theatre in Split. He is the co-founder of Mini teater in Ljubljana and the founder and artistic director of the World Theatre Festival in Zagreb. Buljan has received various awards in Croatia, France, Cuba, Slovakia and, obviously, Slovenia. He is a two-time winner of the Borštnik Award for best show: in 2007 for directing Ivo Svetina's Oedipus and in 2009 for directing Heiner Müller's Macbeth after Shakespeare. This year, Ivica Buljan also won a Prešeren Fund Award for his direction of recent shows.

At Mini teater, they are always glad of the awards, but at the same time the awards make everyone involved even more focused, as they see each and every prize and plaque as a standard to live up to. They are happy to see Slovenia demonstrate once again that it can be open-minded and unprejudiced, as demonstrated by granting this year's Prešeren Award to Ivica Buljan. Similarly, they are happy that successful and original foreign artists working on Slovenian stages do not go unnoticed, although in this case, the award winner could hardly be described as a foreigner. Anyone who has ever entered this magical fairy-tale building will remember the feeling of warmth and positive energy stored inside these walls forever. And the best description for the heart of this theatre? Big! No walk in the old part of Ljubljana would be complete without a visit to the Križevniška cultural quarter, especially in the summer time when the whole area glows with a special aura of mystery.

If the large, childlike heart, inventiveness and organisational energy of Robert Waltl is half of the paradox that is Mini teater, the second half is completed by Ivica Buljan’s aesthetics and focus on the programme. 63


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Ljubljanske znamenitosti

Križevniška četrt Ste se kdaj vprašali, zakaj je petek, 13., slab dan? Zgodovinski viri trdijo, da je francoski kralj Filip Lepi v petek, 13. oktobra 1307, aretiral in kasneje pobil vse člane templjarskega reda. Templjarji so bili predhodniki križniškega reda in so tudi v Sloveniji pustili svoje zgodovinske sledi. Kdo ne pozna Križank in Križevniške ulice v samem centru slovenske prestolnice? tam so v desetem in enajstem stoletju razvili svojo postojanko templjarji, nato so jih zamenjali križniki.

BESEDILO: MATJAŽ POTOKAR FOTOGRAFIJE: MIHA FRAS

Ko se po ulici sprehajajo turisti in posedajo po popisanih klopeh, marsikdo ne ve, zakaj so klopi popisane z imeni: France Prešeren, Ana Jelovšek, Ivan Mrak ali Blaž Crobath. Ne vedo, zakaj je ta ulica okrašena z zelenjem in rožami, zakaj deluje domače. Takoj opazijo portale, dvorišča, lokale, umetniške galerije in gledališče, začutijo drugačnost. Zasluga, da je danes ulica, ki nosi ime po katoliškem redu, živa in igriva, gre predvsem zanesenjakom, zbranim okrog Mini teatra. Najprej so z nje odpihnili prah in ruševine z zgodovinskega spomina. Ugotovili so, da je močno tlakovana tudi z usodami pomembnih literatov, slikarjev in drugih umetnikov ter znanstvenikov in njihovih mecenov, prijateljev in sorodnikov. Pod vodstvom Roberta Waltla in arhitekta Denisa Petrovčiča so med Mestnim muzejem in novim Bregom ustvarili novo kulturno četrt. Na ulico so postavili majhne likovne instalacije, označevalne table, napise, zelenje in cvetje ter klopi za branje in druženje. Odpihnimo z ulice prah zgodovine še mi! Še preden je dobila današnje ime, se je imenovala Ribiška. V okolici so živeli ribiči in na lokaciji okrog današnje gostilne Pod skalco sušili svoje mreže. Še pred njimi so tod živeli


KRIŽEVNIŠKA ČETRT

Morda je še bolj pomembno, da se tudi danes življenje in kultura nista umaknila z ulice. Želja snovalcev, prenesti energijo življenja iz gledališča na ulico, se uresničuje. koliščarji, Rimljani in srednjeveški Ljubljančani. Način življenja meščanov v baroku lahko še danes zaslutimo v čudovitih atrijih in na tristo let starih hrastovih stropih nekaterih stavb. Še bolj je ulica zanimiva zaradi literarnih in arhitekturnih usod. Na vogalu Križevniške in Brega še vedno stoji Zoisova palača. Žiga Zois jo je dokončal leta 1760. V njej je baron gostil prijatelje iz prosvetljenskega krožka: Antona Tomaža Linharta, Valentina Vodnika, Blaža Kumerdeja in mnoge druge. Njegov sin Michelangel je kasneje uredil pred hišo tudi prvi park v Ljubljani. Palača je bila v Zoisovem času znana kot najbolj gostoljubna ljubljanska hiša za visoke goste. V njej je prespal eden od papežev pa tudi avstrijski diplomat Metternich. Arhitekt Jože Plečnik je kulturnemu mecenu Zoisu postavil v neposredni bližini palače kamnito piramido. Morda samo kot pomnik, nemara pa tudi kot navdih bodočim študentom Fakultete za arhitekturo, ki danes študirajo nasproti piramide. V zgodnjem baroku so na drugem vogalu ulice zgradili Codellijevo hišo.

Danes je znana predvsem kot Gostilna Vitez, gostišče pa je v hiši že od leta 1574. V Prešernovih časih jo je posedoval njegov prijatelj Andrej Smole. Na portal hiše je znameniti kipar Francesco Robba izklesal viteza s šlemom na glavi. V drugem nadstropju Codellijeve hiše so odkrili zanimive freske slovenskega baročnega slikarja Jelovška. Na številki 8 je svoje zadnje dni, pred smrtjo v domačem Tomaju, preživel pesnik Srečko Kosovel. Tam so mladi Kosovel, Mile Klopčič, Bratko Kreft, Ivo Grahor, Angelo Cerkovnik, Anton Ocvirk in drugi ustanovili tudi Literarno-dramatični krožek Ivan Cankar. Vanj so se kasneje vključili tudi gledališčniki Mira Danilova, Slavko Jan, Emil Kralj in Ferdo Delak. Še kasneje je v palači živel tudi dramatik Ivan Mrak. Ulica je prepojena z biografijami ljudi in s številnimi zgodovinsko-umetniškimi lokacijami. Morda je še bolj pomembno, da se tudi danes življenje in kultura nista umaknila z ulice. Želja snovalcev, prenesti energijo življenja iz gledališča na ulico, se uresničuje. Običajno se dogajanje najbolj razmahne poleti. 65


križevniška četrt

Takrat zaživi četrt s posebno energijo. Turisti, sosedje, otroci, meščani in umetniki se srečujejo, brez odra, neposredno na ulici. Kulturno četrt so avgusta lani odprli s performansom »Jaz, po katerem se lahko imenuje Ljubljana« v režiji Ivice Buljana, s katerim so počastili sedemdesetletnico največkrat prevajanega slovenskega pesnika Tomaža Šalamuna. Zvedavim pogledom je performans razprl skrite lokacije Križevniške. Peklensko dvorišče, Križanke, Križevniška cerkev in celotna četrt so utripali v izbranih besedah pesnika. Performerji so bili seveda najpomembnejši sodelavci Mini teatra, razen njih pa še nekateri gosti. Četrt je za en večer spet postala umetniška pravljica, prisotni pa smo začutili magično moč skupnega prostora. Tu potekajo tudi ustvarjalne delavnice in predstave Mini poletja, Festivala črk, Festival srednjeveške in renesančne glasbe, branja poezije in proze ter manjši koncerti, srednjeveški dnevi v Ljubljani in spoznavni večeri. Tudi 66

zato postaja Ljubljana svetovna kulturna metropola. Križevniška kulturna četrt danes prerašča ozke ulične okvire. Če je bil njihov načrt najprej pomagati igralcem, umetnikom, pouličnim gledališčnikom in drugim, so današnje ambicije že večje. Počasi se vanjo vključujejo vse bližnje kulturne in znanstvene ustanove, od Dvornega trga s Slovensko akademijo znanosti in umetnosti (SAZU) do Narodne in univerzitetne knjižnice (NUK) in Mestnega muzeja. Kulturnega oživljanja ulic, četrti in sosesk v slovenski prestolnici pa ni opaziti samo v Križevniški, saj jo že nadgrajujeta in posnemata še dve ljubljanski četrti. Lani je tako zaživela tudi Kulturna četrt Tabor. Kulturno in družabno oživljanje soseske ter sodelovanje med prebivalci na Taboru nadgrajujejo tudi s trajnostnim razvijanjem četrti in njenimi ekološkimi popravki. Predvsem z namenom podpore umetniškim projektom, aktualni glasbeni ustvarjalnosti in nevladnim organizacijam pa nastaja tudi Kulturna četrt Šiška.


KRiževniška četrt

Ali postaja slovensko glavno mesto zato kaj bolj prijazno do svojih prebivalcev? Prav gotovo. To dokazujejo tudi nekatere spremembe v obnašanju. Prebivalci oživljenih predelov Ljubljane se med seboj poznajo in tudi pozdravljajo. Kot včasih na vasi ali v manjših mestih. V hitrih in trpkih časih pa take geste štejejo precej več, kot je videti na prvi pogled.

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križevniška quarter

The Sights of Ljubljana – Križevniška Quarter TEXT: matjaž potokar PHOTOGRAPHY: miha fras

Have you ever wondered why Friday the 13th is considered to be a day of bad luck? According to historical sources, it was on Friday, 13 October 1307, that the French king Philip the Fair ordered every member of the Knights Templar to be arrested and later killed. The Knights Templar were predecessors of the Crusaders, and their traces can still be found in Slovenia today. Everyone is familiar with the Križanke theatre and Križevniška ulica Street in the heart of Ljubljana. In the 10th and 11th centuries, the Knights Templar and later the Crusaders had their post here. Many of the tourists walking along the street or lounging on the inscribed benches have no idea why the benches bear these names: France Prešeren, Ana Jelovšek, Ivan Mrak or Blaž Crobath. They do not know why this street is filled with greenery and flowers, why it feels so homey. But they immediately spot the portals, courtyards, cafes, art galleries and the theatre; they feel that there is something different about this place. The fact that this street, named after a Catholic order, is so full of life and playfulness today is largely thanks to the group of enthusiasts focused around Mini teater. They started by sweeping away the dust and removing the ruins from the street’s historical memory. Their efforts were repaid with the discovery that the street was paved with the fates of a number of great authors, painters and other artists, scientists and their patrons, friends and relatives. Led by Robert Waltl and architect Denis Petrovčič, this small group of people established a new cultural quarter between the City Museum and the renovated Breg area. They filled 68

the street with small sculptures and installations, information signs, inscriptions, greenery, flowers and benches for reading and chatting to friends. Let’s join Mini teater and sweep the centuries-old dust from the street! Before the name change, it was known as Ribiška ulica (Fisherman Street); it was inhabited by fishermen who dried their nets where the Pod skalco restaurant stands today. Even earlier, this area was inhabited by lake dwellers. They were followed by Romans and the medieval people of Ljubljana. We can still imagine the way people lived here during the Baroque period just by looking at the magnificent atria and 300-year-old oak ceilings of some buildings. What makes this street even more fascinating are the many literary and architectural fates that played out here. The Zois mansion still stands on the corner of Križevniška and Breg today. Finished in 1760, the mansion was where baron Žiga Zois hosted friends from the enlightenment circle – Anton Tomaž Linhart, Valentin Vodnik, Blaž Kumerdej and many more. Later, Ljubljana’s first park was built in front of the mansion by Zois’s son Michelangel. In Zois’s lifetime, the mansion was known as the most hospitable house in Ljubljana for important guests, accommodating even a pope and Austrian diplomat Metternich. In memory of Žiga Zois, this great patron of culture, architect Jože Plečnik built a stone pyramid in close vicinity to the mansion. The pyramid serves as a tribute as well as perhaps an inspiration to future architects spending their days at the Faculty of Architecture across the road from it. In the Early Baroque, the Codelli house was built on the other street corner. Today the home of the Vitez restaurant, the building has hosted inns and restaurants since 1574. In Prešeren’s lifetime, the inn was owned by his friend Andrej Smole. The stone portal of the Codelli house, depicting a knight wearing a helmet, is the work of famous sculptor Francesco Robba, while the second floor houses fascinating frescoes created by the Slovenian Baroque painter Jelovšek. In the house at number 8, poet Srečko Kosovel spent his last days before returning to his home town of Tomaj to die. Number 8 was where the young Kosovel,


KRiževniška quarter

Mile Klopčič, Bratko Kreft, Ivo Grahor, Angelo Cerkovnik, Anton Ocvirk and others founded the Ivan Cankar Literary and Drama Circle that was later joined by theatre people such as Mira Danilova, Slavko Jan, Emil Kralj and Ferdo Delak. Later, the mansion became the home of playwright Ivan Mrak. The street is brimming with life stories and countless historically and artistically significant locations. Perhaps even more significantly, life and culture continue to exist on the street today. The creators’ desire to transfer vital energy from the theatre out onto the street is becoming a reality. Summer is usually the most active time. The quarter vibrates with special energy. Tourists, neighbours, children, city dwellers and artists meet directly on the street, without the barriers created by the stage. The cultural quarter was inaugurated in August 2011 with a performance of Jaz, po katerem se lahko imenuje Ljubljana (I, Whom Ljubljana Could Be Named After), directed by Ivica Buljan and staged in honour of the 70th birthday of Tomaž Šalamun, Slovenia’s most translated poet. The performance served to reveal the hidden locations of the Križevniška to curious eyes. The Courtyard of Hell, Križanke, Križevniška church and the entire quarter breathed in time with the poet’s creations. The performers were comprised of Mini teater’s most important collaborators and select guests. On that special night, the quarter was revived as an art fairytale; everyone present felt the magical power of a shared space. Today, the quarter is the venue of many creative workshops and shows that are part of the Mini Summer Festival. It also plays host to the Festival of Letters, the Festival of Medieval and Renaissance Music, poetry and prose readings, smallscale concerts, medieval days in Ljubljana and introductory evenings. Sharing the credit for Ljubljana becoming an international cultural metropolis, the Križevniška cultural quarter is now starting to outgrow the narrow constraints of the street. The initial plan was simply to help actors, artists, street performers and others, but now ambitions have grown to include the nearby cultural and science institutes, from the Slovenian Academy of Sciences and Arts on the Dvorni trg square to the National and University Library and the City Museum.

The cultural revival of Ljubljana’s streets, quarters and neighbourhoods is spreading beyond the Križevniška, with two new quarters already building on its example. Last year, the Tabor cultural quarter was inaugurated, with inhabitants reviving the cultural and social aspects of the neighbourhood and expanding upon them through sustainable, environmentally friendly development. The Šiška cultural quarter, on the other hand, is focused primarily upon supporting art projects, musical creativity and non-governmental organisations.

Is all this making the capital of Slovenia a friendlier city for its inhabitants? Without a doubt. This is nowhere more evident than in certain shifts in people’s attitudes. People living in the revived neighbourhoods are starting to recognise and greet each other on the street. Just like in the old days in villages and smaller towns. And in these stressful and difficult times, gestures such as a simple greeting mean a lot more than it appears at first glance. 69


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DESTINACIJA KLET BESEDILO: MAJA CIMERMAN FOTOGRAFIJE: MATEJ SITAR


DESTINACIJA: KLET

Varnostni pas je zategnjen, glava počiva na belem pregrinjalu vzglavnika, pilot naznani »crew prepare for take off«, motorji brnijo, vse glasneje in glasneje. Zdaj, zdaj bi me moralo v želodcu majčkeno, a zelo prijetno zviti, kot me vedno, ko se letalo odlepi od tal in rahlo nagne krila na stran …, zdaj, zdaj ..., ampak občutek izostane. Ker tokrat ne sedim na letalu in ne brenčim nekje med oblaki proti kakšni daljni destinaciji, temveč v kleti Aleša Wallanda v Mariboru. Na poti v košček zgodovine nekega moža.

»Bil je srečen dan, ko sem začel leteti,« pravi Walland, medtem ko zniža glasnost zvočnikov, ki predvajajo zvoke vzleta. »Moja mama je na tomboli zadela polet na douglasu DC-3 in podarila ga je meni. Takrat sem imel pet let, ampak vsega se zelo dobro spomnim.«

»Na takšnem tovornem letalu B-707 so iz Maribora v arabske države vozili kure in jajca, na teh so se pri nas urili piloti Swissaira, na tem jumbo jetu MD-11 pa se je v Kanadi ponesrečil moj prijatelj, pilot in kapitan Urs Zimmermann.«

Douglas DC3 zato zavzema med njegovimi modelskimi letali prav posebno mesto, čeprav so vsi, približno štiri ducat jih je, ki visijo na njegovem kletnem nebu, neločljivo povezan s kakšnim spominom.

Zamisli se, medtem ko od nekod privleče plastične letalske kozarce in postreže z ananasovim sokom. Pomigne proti mizi, kjer je steklena posoda, polna majhnih vrečk prigrizkov letalskih družb iz vsega sveta. 71


DESTINACIJA: KLET

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DESTINACIJA: KLET

»Nekateri so še prav sveži, z mojih nedavnih potovanj,« pravi z nasmehom. Kdor pozna toliko zgodb, kot jih Walland, tudi na letenje gleda drugače. Pravi, da izredno nerad leti kot običajen potnik. V svoji karieri se je preveč razvadil, ko je kot letalski inženir lahko sedel s posebno dovolilnico spredaj pri pilotih in ves čas natančno vedel, kaj se dogaja. Zdaj mu postaja med turbulencami neprijetno in se zato drži pregovora, ki ga je nekoč slišal: »Nikoli pijan v službo, nikdar trezen na letalo.« Seveda je v tem dobršen del šale, ampak kot povsod je v vsaki šali tudi nekaj resnice. Walland je kot mladenič želel postati pilot. Najprej je gradil modele letal in uspešno sodeloval na tekmovanjih v modelarstvu. S sedemnajstimi je začel letati z jadralnim letalom, v katerem se je uspel obdržati v zraku tudi do osem ur. Dokler ni moral na stranišče. Svojemu cilju je sledil na Letalski akademiji v Zagrebu, vendar pilot zaradi poškodbe hrbtenice potem le ni postal. »Danes se mi zdi, da je bilo bolje tako,« pravi. Morda je za letalstvo res naredil več na tleh, kot bi mogel v zraku. Na različnih delovnih mestih, do vključno direktorskega, je bil na mariborskem letališču že od njegovega ustanavljanja leta 1975 pa vse do upokojitve pred nekaj leti. Ampak čisto brez tega norega letalskega sveta ni mogel niti po upokojitvi. Zato si je omislil svoje kokpitsko pribežališče, kamor lahko povabi prijatelje ali pa se umakne v svoj svet, ki je hkrati pod zemljo in nad njo. V neznansko obilico detajlov, ki jih lahko ustvari samo strastno zbirateljsko življenje. V objem vžigalnikov, prtičkov, pisal in priznanj letalskih družb, pilotskih čepic, reklamnih posterjev, knjig o letenju, fotografij in video posnetkov. V paralelno realnost, ki je še na hodniku blokovske kleti, kakršnih je v Mariboru na tisoče, nepredstavljiva. Iz zvočnikov zdaj prihajajo zvoki Glenna Millerja. Ker je bil glasbenik med vojno član Air Forcea in je umrl v letalski nesreči nad Rokavskim prelivom, ima vso pravico za obstoj v Wallandovem kletnem panteonu. In kot zanalašč zazvoni telefon, na drugi strani pa je Alešev nekdanji inštruktor letenja in prijatelj z isto strastjo, da se dogovorita za naslednji polet.

»To je užitek, ki si ga ne pustim vzeti. Na sopilotovem sedežu se mi v majhnem motornem letalu nad prelepo Štajersko čisto spremeni perspektiva.« Letalec na nebu ostane letalec tudi na zemlji in še pod njo ...

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DESTINATION: BASEMENT

DESTINATION: BASEMENT TEXT: MAJA CIMERMAN PHOTOGRAPHY: MATEJ SITAR

My seatbelt is fastened, my head is resting on the white headrest cover, the pilot announces “cabin crew prepare for take-off” and the drone of the engines grows louder and louder. Now, now is the moment I should feel that tiny but pleasant fluttering in my stomach, as always happens when the plane takes off and banks gently to one side, now, now... but the feeling is not there. Because this time I’m not sitting in an aeroplane buzzing through the clouds towards some distant destination, but in Aleš Walland’s basement in Maribor. On my way to a little piece of one man’s personal history. “It was a happy day when I started flying,” says Walland, as he turns down the volume of the speakers that are broadcasting the sounds of the take-off. “My mother won a flight in a Douglas DC-3 at a raffle, and gave her prize to me. I was five years old at the time, but I remember it all very well.” That is why the Douglas DC-3 occupies a special place in his collection of model aeroplanes, although each of the models hanging from the ceiling – there are around four dozen of them – is tied up with a specific memory. “A Boeing 707 cargo aircraft like that one used to carry chickens and eggs from Maribor to the Arab countries. Swissair pilots trained here on these. This is the 74

MD-11 airliner piloted by my friend Urs Zimmermann that crashed in Canada.” Lost in thought, he pulls out some plastic airline cups from somewhere and serves pineapple juice. He points towards the table, where a glass bowl is full of little packets of in-flight snacks from airlines from all over the world. “Some of them are still fresh, from my recent travels,” he says with a smile. Someone who knows as many stories as Walland does also sees flying in a different way. He tells me he hates flying like an ordinary passenger. Over the course of his career he grew too used to a different way of flying, when his special aircraft engineer’s permit allowed him to sit up front with the pilots and he always knew exactly what was going on. These days he finds turbulence unpleasant and sticks faithfully to a maxim he once heard: “Never go to work drunk, never board a plane sober.” A joke, of course, but, as always, one that contains a grain of truth. As a young man Walland wanted to become a pilot. To begin with he built model aircraft and enjoyed success in aircraft modelling competitions. At the age of 17, he started flying a glider and was soon capable of staying aloft for up to eight hours. Until he needed to go to the bathroom, in fact. He continued to follow his dream at the Academy of Aviation in Zagreb, but a back injury meant that he could not become a pilot. “Today it seems to me that perhaps it was better that way,” he says. It could be that he really did achieve more for aviation on the ground than he would have been able to in the air. Over the course of his career at Maribor Airport – a career that lasted from the airport’s founding in 1975 until his retirement a few years ago – he occupied a number of different positions, including that of director.


DESTINATION: BASEMENT

“It was a happy day when I started flying,” says Walland, as he turns down the volume of the speakers that are broadcasting the sounds of the take-off. “My mother won a flight in a Douglas DC-3 at a raffle, and gave her prize to me. I was five years old at the time, but I remember it all very well.” But he would not have been able to retire without taking some of the crazy world of aviation with him. And so he devised his cockpit refuge, a place to invite his friends or retreat into his own world, a world that is simultaneously below and above the ground. Into an incredible wealth of details that only a life passionately devoted to collecting can create. Cigarette lighters, napkins, writing implements and commendations from airlines, pilot’s caps, advertising posters, books about flying, photographs and videos. A parallel reality that is unimaginable even in the corridor outside this basement beneath a tower block, identical to so many others in Maribor. Now the sounds of Glenn Miller are coming from the speakers. The great bandleader was a serving Air Force officer who died when his plane plunged into the English Channel, so he has every right to exist in Walland’s basement pantheon. As if on cue, the telephone rings: it is Aleš’s former flying instructor, a friend who shares the same passion, calling to talk about their next flight. “That is a pleasure I will never give up. Sitting in the co-pilot’s seat of a small plane above the beautiful Štajerska countryside gives me an entirely new perspective.” An aviator remains an aviator even six feet under. 75


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Olimpijec

Marko Račič legenda

BESEDILO: MARJAN ŽIBERNA FOTOGRAFIJE: Igor Lapajne in osebni arhiv Marka Račiča

V njegovi dnevni sobi je med številnimi priznanji in drugimi odličji, ki pričajo o njegovem dolgem in dejavnem življenju, tudi pokal z napisom »legenda«. Prejel ga je od »svoje« Atletske zveze Slovenije. Marko Račič je prav to: legenda. Poznam ga, vsaj na videz, okroglo 30 let. Kot osnovnošolec, ki ga je začela srkati vase neubranljiva privlačnost atletike, sem ga začel srečevati na atletskih stadionih – vitkega, sivolasega gospoda živahnih gibov, ki je budno skrbel, da so tekmovanja potekala skladno s pravili in v poštenem duhu. V naslednjih letih sem ga v tem okolju srečal še velikokrat. V zadnjem desetletju so se najina pota križala veliko redkeje, a vsakič posebej sem se čudil, kako malo se je medtem spremenil; kot da bi se ga čas komaj dotaknil. Ko sem se konec aprila oglasil pri njem doma, v ljubljanski Šiški, sem se lahko ponovno prepričal o tem, kako vitalen je. Tako kot vselej je imel kup načrtov in obveznosti, povezanih z atletiko, ki ji je ob svoji družini posvetil življenje. Marko Račič, ki je 25. aprila praznoval 92. rojstni dan, je najstarejši slovenski udeleženec poletnih olimpijskih iger. V Londonu je leta 1948 kot član jugoslovanskega moštva nastopil v teku na 400 m in v štafeti 4 x 400 m. »Potovali smo elegantno, z Orient expressom do Pariza, kjer smo prestopili na direktni vlak za London, ki je zapeljal na trajekt čez Rokavski preliv in nas pripeljal na cilj,« se spominja poti na olimpijske igre. A povojno obdobje je bilo tudi čas pomanjkanja. »Ker so rekli, da bo hrana slabša, smo morali s seboj pripeljati cele kartonaste škatle salam, ki pa so bile nekaj dni po našem prihodu, ko smo jih odprli, vse plesnive.« Navodilo vodstva reprezentance, kako naj tekmuje, je bilo precej nenavadno: naj že od samega začetka teče hitro, da bo v čast mladi jugoslovanski državi. »Po 300 metrih sem imel tako trde noge, da nisem vedel, ali bom sploh pritekel do cilja. Ampak zgodil se je skoraj čudež, bil sem drugi v skupini

in se uvrstil v četrtfinale.« V nadaljnje tekmovanje se sicer ni prebil, a je na svoj olimpijski nastop upravičeno ponosen. »To je nekaj, kar te spremlja vse življenje. Kamorkoli pridem, rečejo, da sem olimpijec, čeprav nisem osvojil medalje.« Že kot 11-letni fantič, ki je skupaj s štirimi brati in sestrami živel v Rožni dolini v Ljubljani, kjer je njegov oče, ravnatelj Zavoda za žensko domačo obrt, kupil manjšo hišo, je telovadil pri Sokolu. »Poleti smo se ukvarjali tudi z atletiko. Nekoč sem v teku na 100 m, ki se je odvijal na stezi ob nogometnem stadionu za današnjo bencinsko črpalko na Viču, dosegel dober čas, kar je bilo objavljeno v časopisu, ki je poročal o dejavnostih sokolov. Kmalu potem se je oglasil trener iz Ilirije, enega od treh predvojnih ljubljanskih atletskih klubov, in začel sem trenirati. Prvič sem kot atlet nastopil prav na svoj rojstni dan leta 1937. Oče nad tem ni bil navdušen, prav tako ni bilo posluha na učiteljišču, ki sem ga kasneje obiskoval. Tekmovali smo celo pod izmišljenimi imeni. Jaz sem si omislil priimek Čičar, torej svoj priimek, prebran v nasprotni smeri …,« se smeje ob spominih na neke danes težko pojmljive čase. »Leta 1938 sem bil še kot mladinec rezerva v jugoslovanski članski štafeti 4 x 100 m, ki je nastopila v Beogradu na balkanskih igrah, in bi bil zato skoraj izključen iz šole. Nisem se mogel pravočasno vrniti domov, da bi ujel začetek pouka, ki se je tedaj začenjal 15. septembra. A sem se obrnil na Draga Ulago, ki je takrat služboval v Beogradu na ministrstvu za ljudsko telesno vzgojo.


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OLIMPIJEC MARKO RAČIČ - LEGENDA

Ulaga, ki je bil prvi Slovenec z visokošolsko športno izobrazbo, mi je izdal potrdilo, ki me je rešilo pred izključitvijo. Dobil sem ’le’ ukor.«

če bi se morda raje pogovarjal v nemščini. Takrat smo bilo proti Nemcem že precej nastrojeni, in sem to zavrnil.«

Po končanem učiteljišču je dobil službo v Zgornjem Tuhinju. A že po nekaj mesecih se je njegova šolniška kariera za vedno končala; zaradi začetka vojne se je vrnil v Ljubljano. Iz istega razloga se je za več let prekinila njegova športna pot. Medvojna leta je preživel kot uslužbenec na železnici. »Leta 1940 sem na prigovarjanje prijatelja prestopil iz Ilirije v takratno železničarsko športno društvo Hermes in to je kasneje, ko so Ljubljano okupirali Italijani, svojim članom pomagalo tako, da so nas zaposlili na železnici, kjer smo bili kolikor toliko varni pred aretacijami in preganjanji.« Dve leti je služboval v Črnomlju in iz tega obdobja se spominja tudi, kako je pestoval igralca Radka Poliča Raca. »V Črnomlju smo se tisti, ki smo bili povezani z Osvobodilno fronto, dobivali pri Poličevih. Radko, Racev oče, je bil tedaj v partizanih in njegova žena ga je dvakrat obiskala. Vsakič se je potem rodil otrok; eden od njiju je bil Rac …«

Še v času aktivne kariere in študija je poleg samega sebe treniral še vrsto drugih atletov, sicer pa je bil kot profesor telesne vzgoje zaposlen v jugoslovanski vojski, kjer je predaval na vojaških šolah in akademijah. V letih 1960–1968 je bil selektor ženske državne atletske reprezentance. Kot strokovni opazovalec in sodelavec je bil prisoten na letnih olimpijskih igrah v Rimu, Münchnu in Montrealu ter na zimskih v Innsbrucku in Sarajevu. Leta 1965 se je z družino – poročil se je z dekletom, ki jo je poznal še iz otroštva – vrnil v Ljubljano. Vsa nadaljnja leta je bil dejavno vpet v atletiko kot sodnik, trener, funkcionar, statistik … Prav na področju statistike so njegove zasluge izjemne: slovenska in jugoslovanska atletika bi brez številnih publikacij, ki jih je pripravil, vedela o svojih koreninah veliko manj, kot ve. Kot mojstra tega področja so ga povabili k organizaciji olimpijskih iger v Sarajevu l. 1984, kjer je s svojo izredno natančnostjo in organizacijskimi sposobnostmi skrbel, da so bili rezultati in številni drugi podatki vedno pravočasno na voljo novinarjem, funkcionarjem, javnosti ... Kasneje je sodeloval še pri organizaciji Univerzijade v Zagrebu, evropskega atletskega prvenstva v Splitu in številnih drugih tekmovanj.

Takoj po vojni, junija 1945, mu je prišel pred oči razpis višje šole za telesno kulturo v Beogradu, kamor je odšel na sprejemne izpite in jih opravil bolje kot kdorkoli drug. Še isto leto je tudi postal prvak Jugoslavije v teku na 200 metrov. »Slovenski atleti, za razliko od Hrvatov, ki so trenirali in tekmovali za NDH (Nezavisno državo Hrvatsko), in Srbov, med vojno nismo trenirali in tekmovali. Tako smo se vključili v kulturni molk, ki ga je razglasila Osvobodilna fronta. Zato je bilo veliko presenečenje, ko sem po vsega nekaj mesecih treninga postal državni prvak.« Ta naslov je v tekih na 100 in 200 metrov ter v štafetah, kjer je dosegel kar 18 državnih rekordov, osvojil še večkrat. Tudi na 200 in 300 metrov je večkrat izboljšal državni rekord. Za jugoslovansko reprezentanco je nastopil tridesetkrat, poleg londonskih olimpijskih iger tudi na dveh evropskih prvenstvih pa na balkanskih in sredozemskih igrah, meddržavnih dvobojih … V Beogradu je ostal 20 let. V tem času je doštudiral na DIF-u (Državnem inštitutu za fizkulturo) in odslužil vojaško obveznost. Resno je tekmoval do leta 1952, kasneje pa le še občasno. Leta 1953 je za nekaj mesecev odšel na dodatno športno izobraževanje na Švedsko. »Znal sem kolikor toliko nemško, in so me poslali. Takrat sem obžaloval, da se nisem bolje naučil nemščine. Pred vojno me je treniral Otto Klein, po rodu Avstrijec, ki je bil nekakšen glavni atletski trener Dravske banovine, kamor je tedaj spadal precejšen del Slovenije. Znal je slovensko, a me je kot gimnazijca vprašal, 78

Marko Račič je še vedno zelo dejaven pri organizaciji atletskih tekmovanj, pripravlja svojo biografijo, ukvarja se z atletsko statistiko. Na vprašanje, kako je pri svojih letih tako čil, odgovarja, da so to geni. »Moj oče je umrl za pljučnico, star 93 let,« pravi. In pa zmernost: »Ne ukvarjam se obsedeno s športom, kot to počnejo mnogi moji znanci. Nikoli nisem bil asket, a nikoli tudi nisem v ničemer pretiraval. Vedno sem se držal načela svojega predavatelja fiziologije, ki je zagovarjal 'zakon zmerne obremenitve'. Tudi kot atlet sem dal na tekmovanju vse od sebe, na treningu pa me ni kaj dosti motilo, če so bili drugi boljši.« »Telovadbi« pa pripisuje zasluge, da je njegov spomin kljub letom še vedno izvrsten: mnenja je, da ga je najbrž prav statistika, to nenehno pretresanje podatkov, ohranila bistrega. Več kot dobro tudi ve, da za temi na videz suhoparnimi številkami stojijo življenja ljudi, ki so se, podobno kot on, strastno predajali svoji veliki ljubezni – atletiki. Morda je prav zato Marko Račič tako veder, pozitiven človek. Tako ne more biti nobeno presenečenje, da je med priznanji, ki krasijo njegov dom, tudi »odličje« z napisom »Najboljši dedi na svetu«.


»Tekmovali smo celo pod izmišljenimi imeni. Jaz sem si omislil priimek Čičar, torej svoj priimek, prebran v nasprotni smeri …«

79


Olympic Athlete and Legend Marko Račič TEXT: MARJAN ŽIBERNA PHOTOGRAPHY: Igor Lapajne and Marko Račič’s private archive

Among the countless medals and plaques testifying to his long and active life, his living room also houses a cup bearing the inscription “Legend”. It was given to him by “his” Slovenian Athletics Federation. And that is what Marko Račič truly is – a legend. I have known him – at least by sight – for some 30 years now. When I was still in primary school and the irresistible attraction of athletics was just beginning to draw me in, I would often see Mr. Račič in track and field stadiums – a slim, silver-haired, lively man keeping a watchful eye over the competitions to make sure that everything was in accordance with the rules and in the spirit of fair play. In the following years, that was the environment where I would frequently encounter him. In the last decade, our paths crossed much less often, but whenever they did, I would regularly be astonished at how little he had changed in the mean time; it was as if time had barely touched him. When I stopped by at his home in the Ljubljana quarter of Šiška at the end of April, I noticed yet again how full of life he is. As usual, he had a heap of plans and commitments in connection with athletics, the thing that means most to him after his family. On 25 April, Marko Račič celebrated his 92nd birthday. He is the oldest surviving Slovenian athlete who took part in the summer Olympics. As a member of the Yugoslav Olympic team, he competed in the 400m dash and the 4x400m relay race in 1948 in London. “We travelled in style; we took the Orient Express to Paris where we switched to a direct train to London. The train was loaded onto a ferry to cross the Channel and bring us to our destination,” Mr. Račič remembers his journey to the Olympic Games. But the post-war period was also a time of shortages. “They told us that the food there wouldn’t be much good, so we had to bring a few cardboard boxes of salami with us. But by the time we opened the boxes a few days after our arrival in London, they were covered in mould.” He also received rather unusual instructions from the national team management on how he should run the race – he was told to run as fast as he could from the very start in order to bring honour to the young country of Yugoslavia. “After 300m, my legs were so stiff that I wasn’t sure whether I would even make it to the finish. But thanks to something close to a miracle, I finished second and made it to the quarter-final.” While Mr. Račič did not make it to the next round of the competition, he is justifiably proud of his participation in the Olympics. “It’s something that stays with you for the rest of your life. Wherever I go, they call me an Olympian, even though I didn’t win a medal.” He spent his childhood in a small house in Ljubljana’s Rožna dolina quarter. He had four siblings, and his father was the director of the Institute for Women’s Handicrafts. Even as an 11-year-old boy, Marko was a member of the Sokol gymnastics organisation. “In the summer, we sometimes did athletics. At one 100m race on the track in the football stadium behind where the filling station stands today in Vič, I achieved a good result and it was published in the newspaper that reported about Sokol activities. Soon after, I was contacted by an Ilirija coach – one of the three pre-war athletics clubs in Ljubljana – and I started my training.My first appearance as an athlete was on my birthday in 1937. My father was not happy about it. I didn’t find much understanding at the teachers’ training college I attended later either," he laughs, remembering a difficult era long ago that we find hard to imagine today. We would even 80

compete under made-up names. I chose the surname Čičar, which was my own surname read backwards …” laughs Mr. Račič, remembering a difficult era long ago that we find hard to imagine today. “In 1938, still in the youth team, I was the reserve runner for the Yugoslav national team competing in the 4x100m dash at the Balkan Games in Belgrade. I was almost expelled from school because of it. I wasn’t able to come back home before school started, which was on 15 September in those days. But I contacted Drago Ulaga; at that time, he worked in Belgrade at the Ministry of Public Health Education. Ulaga, the first Slovenian to have a university-level education in sports, gave me a certificate that saved me from expulsion. In the end, I was only reprimanded.” After graduating from teachers’ training college, he found work in Zgornji Tuhinj. But just a few months later, his brief teaching career was over forever; he returned to Ljubljana when the war broke out. For the same reason, his sports career was on hold for several years. He spent the war years working for the railway. “In 1940, my friend convinced me to change from Ilirija to Hermes, which was the railway’s sports club at the time. Later, when Ljubljana was under Italian occupation, Hermes helped its members to get jobs at the railway, where we were relatively safe from persecution and arrests.” For two years, he worked in Črnomelj; one of his memories from this time is holding the baby who would grow up to become the actor Radko Polič – Rac. “In Črnomelj, those of us with connections to the Liberation Front would meet in the Polič house. Radko, Rac’s father, had joined the partisans and his wife went to visit him twice. After each visit, a baby was born; one of them was Rac …” Soon after the war, in June 1945, he noticed a call for applications published by the college of physical education in Belgrade; he took the entrance examination and scored higher than any other applicant. That very same year, he became the Yugoslav champion in the 200m dash. “Unlike Croats, who trained and competed for the NDH (Independent State of Croatia), and Serbs, Slovenian athletes didn’t train and compete during the war. It was our way of joining the cultural embargo declared by the Liberation Front. So it was a great surprise when I became the national champion after just a few months of training.” He would win this title several times more in the 100m and 200m dashes and in relay races, where he set 18 national records. He also set several national records in the 200m and 300m dashes. As a member of the Yugoslav national team, he took part in thirty competitions, from the London Olympic Games and two European championships to the Balkan and Mediterranean Games, competitions against other national teams, etc. He remained in Belgrade for 20 years. During this time, he finished his studies at the National Institute of Physical Education and completed his military service. He competed seriously until 1952 and occasionally after that. In 1953, he was sent to Sweden for a few months for additional sports education. “I could speak some German, so they sent me. I regretted then that I hadn’t learnt more German. Before the war, my coach was Otto Klein, who was Austrian by birth; he was more or less the leading athletics coach in the Drava Banovina, which covered a large part of Slovenia at the time. He could speak Slovenian, but since I was in the upper secondary school, he asked me if I’d prefer to talk in German. At that time, we were quite opposed to Germans already, so I refused.”


Olympic Athlete Marko Račič

We would even compete under made-up names. I chose the surname Čičar, which was my own surname read backwards …” laughs Mr. Račič, remembering a difficult era long ago that we find hard to imagine today. During his active career and studies, he trained a number of other athletes in addition to himself; later, he was employed as a professor of physical education in the Yugoslav army, lecturing at military schools and academies. From 1960 to 1968, he was the selector of the women’s national athletics team. As an expert observer and contributor, he attended the summer Olympic Games in Rome, Munich and Montreal as well as the winter Olympic Games in Innsbruck and Sarajevo. In 1965, he returned to Ljubljana with his family; he had married a girl whom he knew since they were children. In the following decades, he remained actively involved in athletics as a referee, coach, official and statistician. He made some extraordinary achievements in statistics; it is largely owing to the countless publications he compiled that we know as much about the history of Slovenian and Yugoslav athletics as we do. As an expert in this field, he was invited to participate in the organisation of the Sarajevo Olympics in 1984. His unfailing accuracy and organisational abilities ensured that the results and other relevant information were always quickly made available to reporters, officials and the public. Later he also participated in the organisation of the Universiade in Zagreb, the European athletics championship in Split and many other competitions.

Marko Račič remains highly involved in organising athletics competitions; he is also working on his autobiography and still compiles statistics related to athletics. When I marvel at how fit he is considering his age, he says it is all down to good genes. “My father died of pneumonia at 93,” he tells me. He also owes his fitness to moderation: “I don’t exercise as obsessively as a lot of the people I know. I was never exactly ascetical, but I never overdid anything either. I have always followed the principle of my physiology lecturer; he believed in ‘the law of moderate loading.’ Even as an athlete, I would give it my all at competitions, but I never minded if others beat me in training.” The credit for his memory, still excellent despite his age, goes to “exercise” – he believes that it is statistics, the constant sifting through piles of data, that has kept his mind so sharp. He is also well aware that behind these numbers, so tedious at first glance, there are the lives of people who shared his passion for athletics, their greatest love. Perhaps that is why Marko Račič is such a cheerful and positive person. It is no surprise to find among the many cups and medals decorating his home a plaque with the inscription “The World’s Greatest Grandpa”.

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Reka in šaman:

vrnitev

NA začetek BESEDILO: MARKO FRELIH FOTOGRAFIJE iz Venezuele: Charles Brewer Carías FOTOGRAFIJE z razstave: Rafael Santana FOTOGRAFIJE predmetov: Arhiv Fundacije Cisneros

V Slovenskem etnografskem muzeju bo še do začetka septembra 2012 odprta velika gostujoča razstava z naslovom »Orinoco – Indijanci amazonskega deževnega gozda«. Razstava je nastala v sodelovanju s Fundacijo Cisneros (Fundación Cisneros), ki razpolaga z izjemno muzejsko zbirko predmetov manj znanih etničnih skupin v Venezueli. Iz nervoznega vsakdanjega sveta, prepredenega z digitalizacijo in globalizacijo, vzbudi vstop v muzejske sobane skoraj slehernemu obiskovalcu občutek, da se je znašel v čarobnem okolju, v katerem prinašajo predmeti, slike in teksti osrednje, zelo preprosto sporočilo razstave: Človek je del narave, zato naj živi z njo v harmoniji!

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REKA IN ŠAMAN: VRNITEV NA ZAČETEK

V spremenjenem stanju doživi vizijo, v kateri odpotuje v neznani svet onostranstva in lahko obvladuje neskončne dimenzije – od podzemlja do nebeških višav. Okoli 600 eksponatov je razstavljenih po sklopih, ki vodijo obiskovalca iz enega prostora v drugega. Najprej je predstavljeno naravno geografsko okolje Venezuele, od koder izhajajo ljudstva, zastopana na razstavi. Uvod v srečanje z njimi je izjemno slikovita narava z nenavadnimi rastlinami in živalmi. Ta ljudstva spoznavamo po njihovih osnovnih značilnostih, tudi po nakitu in barvanju obraza in telesa. Nakit je tako kot glavnina eksponatov narejen iz naravnih materialov. Ker razstava omenja slavno reko, je razumljivo, da je prikazan način ribolova in življenja na njej in ob njej. Med ročnimi izdelki prevladujejo košare in pladnji. Bogata paleta izdelkov je še posebej zanimiva zaradi nenavadnih motivov, povezanih z mitološkimi zgodbami. Domačini stalno živijo v stiku z mitičnimi predniki in duhovi pragozda. Vse se med seboj prepleta in takšno 'prepletanje' najdemo tudi v pletarskih mojstrovinah. Na razstavi zagotovo pritegne največjo pozornost duhovni svet staroselcev, ki je največkrat povezan s šamanskimi obredi. Šaman ima glavno vlogo v strukturi družbe. Odgovoren je za njeno homogeno delovanje in rešuje vse težave, ki se pojavijo od znotraj (npr. bolezni, prepiri) ali od zunaj (npr. napad sovražnika). Prav tako se 'spopade' z nevihto, grmenjem in drugimi naravnimi katastrofami. Odgovoren je za dobro letino in uspešen ulov. Šaman je tisti, ki pozna pot do duhov pragozda. Za obred se vedno skrbno pripravi, še posebej je natančen pri krašenju telesa in uporabi zdravilnih pripomočkov. Na razstavi so prikazani različni šamanski rekviziti in okrasje, med katerim izstopajo t. i. pernate krone. Sestavljene so iz pletene vlaknaste osnove, na katero je pritrjeno perje svetih ptic: rumeno, rdeče in zeleno perje macawa, 84

oranžno tukanovo, zeleno papigino in črno perje curassowa. Skozi trans, ki ga doseže s pomočjo psihoaktivnih sredstev, kot je npr. rastlina jopo, stopi v stik z bogovi in gozdnimi duhovi ter mitičnimi predniki. V spremenjenem stanju doživi vizijo, v kateri odpotuje v neznani svet onostranstva in lahko obvladuje neskončne dimenzije – od podzemlja do nebeških višav. Šamanizem ima med domačini v venezuelskem pragozdu zelo veliko arhaičnih potez in je v marsičem podoben obredom nekdanjih šamanov v Sibiriji. To so tiste oblike (npr. plezanje na kozmično drevo, preobrazba v ptico), ki so zelo univerzalne in jih pozna veliko starih kultur. Harmonija pa ni prisotna samo v okolju, kjer živijo staroselci deževnega pragozda, ampak zajema dimenzije celotnega vesolja. To ponazarja tudi obred Warime, ki ga pozna ljudstvo De’áruwa (Piaroa). Ob plesu in glasbi pojejo o stvarjenju, poveličujejo rodovitnost narave in ji izražajo svojo hvaležnost. V mističnem obredu se obračajo k mitološkim prednikom, divjim prašičem. Plesalci imajo celo telo prekrito z oblačili iz ličja, na glavi pa konično pokrivalo, ki predstavlja divjega prašiča. Obred izvajajo samo moški. Ženske spremljajo nastop plesalcev z velikim navdušenjem, saj je to osrednji dogodek za celotno skupnost, ki zagotavlja obilje v prihodnosti in hkrati poveže vse prisotne z božanskimi silami prednikov. Na razstavi v Slovenskem etnografskem muzeju je Warime predstavljen v zadnjem prostoru in obredna oblačila ustvarjajo videz negibnih statuet. Toda čim dlje jih gledaš, tem bolj si prepričan, da se bodo nevidni plesalci vsak trenutek premaknili.


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RIVER AND SHAMAN: A RETURN TO THE BEGINNING

River and Shaman: A Return to the Beginning TEXT: MARKO FRELIH PHOTOGRAPHY FROM VENEZUELA: Charles Brewer Carías PHOTOGRAPHY FROM the exhibition: Rafael Santana PHOTOGRAPHY OF EXHIBITS: Cisneros Foundation Archive

Up until early September 2012, the Slovene Ethnographic Museum will be hosting an extensive touring exhibition entitled “Orinoco – Indians of the Amazon Rainforest”. The exhibition was created in cooperation with the Cisneros Foundation (Fundación Cisneros), which holds an extraordinary museum collection of objects from a number of less well known ethnic groups in Venezuela. Stepping out from the nerve-wracking, digital, global world of today and into the museum rooms, visitors feel as though they have entered a magical environment in which objects, images and texts communicate the central message of the exhibition. The message is very simple: People are a part of nature, so they should be living in harmony with nature. 86

There are some 600 objects exhibited in sections that guide the visitor from one room to the next. First we are introduced to the natural and geographical environment of Venezuela, the home of the peoples represented in the exhibition. The picturesque nature, filled with unusual plants and strange animals, serves as the introduction to the ethnic groups of Venezuela. We learn about them through their basic characteristics, including the jewellery they wear and the style in which they paint their faces and bodies. Like the majority of exhibits, the jewellery is made of natural materials. Since the title of the exhibition refers to the famous river, it is understandable that fishing and the way of life on the river are also depicted. Among the handmade artefacts, baskets and trays are the most commonly represented. The wide array of objects is made particularly interesting by the unusual motifs connected with various mythological stories. The natives have remained in touch with their mythical ancestors and the spirits of the rainforest. Everything is intertwined, and this type of intertwining continues in the masterpieces of weaving art. The most interesting thing to discover at the exhibition is undoubtedly the indigenous people’s spiritual world, which typically includes shamanic rituals. The shaman plays the most important part in the structure of the society. He is responsible for its homogeneity and solves any problems stemming from the inside (e.g. illnesses, arguments) or the outside (e.g. enemy attack). The shaman will also “deal with” storms, thunder and other natural disasters. He is responsible for a good harvest and successful hunting. The shaman knows how to communicate with the spirits of the rainforest. He always prepares meticulously for any ritual and is particularly careful when it comes to decorating the body or using medicine. The exhibition includes a number of shaman’s tools


RIVER AND SHAMAN: A RETURN TO THE BEGINNING

and decorations, among which the feather crowns are particularly stunning. These crowns consist of a base made of woven fibres, to which feathers of sacred birds have been attached: yellow, red and green macaw feathers, orange toucan feathers, green parrot feathers and black curassow feathers. Using psychoactive substances such as the yopo plant, the shaman goes into a trance and is able to contact gods, spirits of the forest and mythical ancestors. In this altered state, he experiences a vision in which he travels into an unknown world, into the beyond, where he has the power to control endless dimensions from the nether world to the heavens. The shamanism that is practiced in the ethnic groups of the Venezuelan rainforest has many archaic characteristics; in many ways, it is similar to the rituals once performed by shamans in Siberia. These rituals (e.g. climbing the cosmic tree, transformation into a bird) are highly universal and typical of many ancient cultures. There is harmony in the environment inhabited by the indigenous rainforest peoples; it is the same harmony that encompasses the dimensions of the entire universe. This is symbolised in the Warime ritual performed by the De’åruwa (Piaroa) people. Accompanied by dancing and music, they sing about creation, praise the fertility of nature and express their gratitude to nature. In this mystical ritual, they also address wild boars, their mythological ancestors. The dancers cover their bodies with bast clothing and wear conical hats on their heads. The hats represent wild boars. The ritual is performed solely by men. The women watch the dancers with great enthusiasm – this is an event of the highest importance for the whole community; it ensures that they will continue to live in abundance and establishes a connection between people and the divine forces of their ancestors.

At the exhibition in the Slovenian Ethnographic Museum, Warime is presented in the final room, with ritual clothing giving the appearance of motionless statues. The longer you spend looking at them, however, the more you are convinced that the invisible dancers are just about to burst into movement.

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086

Violinist

GIUSEPPE

tARTINI

Ponos Pirana

BESEDILO IN FOTOGRAFIJE: dr. METODA KOKOLE (ZRC SAZU) IGOR LAPAJNE (ZRC SAZU)


VIOLINIST GIUSEPPE TARTINI

Na skrajnem jugozahodnem delu Slovenije, kjer se modri valovi Jadranskega morja zaganjajo v bele skale nasipov, se dviguje starodavno mesto Piran. Zgodnejše naselje je svojo današnjo obliko dobilo v času, ko je mesto še sodilo pod upravo Beneške republike, ki je trajala od konca 13. stoletja do leta 1797. Piran z zaledjem je še danes uradno dvojezično slovensko-italijansko mesto. Prav beneška arhitektura in kulturni vplivi so mu dali odločilen pečat, ki je na vsakem koraku viden še danes. Tipično mediteransko mesto je stisnjeno na ozek jezik kopnine in s svojimi ozkimi ulicami in strminami, ki vodijo do osupljivih razglednih točk, je povečini uspelo ohraniti svoje kulturnozgodovinsko bogastvo, ki privablja številne obiskovalce iz celega sveta. V tem mestu se je v zatonu zlate dobe beneškega časa rodil Giuseppe, četrti otrok mestnega veljaka, uspešnega trgovca in lastnika več posesti v bližnjem Strunjanu, Giovannija Antonia Tartinija po rodu iz Firenc, in njegove piranske žene Catterine, rojene Zangrando. Krščen je bil 8. aprila 1692 v tedaj novozgrajeni krstilnici ob zvoniku in bogato opremljeni župni cerkvi sv. Jurija, ki se dviga na vrhu griča visoko nad impozantnimi loki obokov obzidanega morskega

obrežja. V družinski hiši tik ob starem notranjem mestnem pristanišču je Giuseppe Tartini, ki se je pozneje neizbrisno zapisal med najslavnejše glasbenike svojega časa, preživljal svoja brezskrbna otroška leta. Velika hiša, ki jo je prav glasbenikov oče razširil v današnjo velikost, še danes kraljuje med pomembnimi mestnimi stavbami na osrednjem piranskem trgu, urejenem na notranjem mestnem pristanišču, ki je bilo leta 1894 zasuto. V okviru velikopotezno zasnovanih prireditev ob dvestoti obletnici rojstva najslavnejšega meščana, »prve violine Evrope«, »učitelja narodov«, skladatelja in glasbenega misleca so novi trg poimenovali Tartinijev trg in na njem postavili violinistov bronasti kip. Tartini ima vse od takrat prvenstvo med kulturnimi poudarki, ki jih vsak obiskovalec zazna ob prihodu v staro mestno jedro Pirana. 89


VIOLINIST GIUSEPPE TARTINI

Hiša Tartini, danes sedež Skupnosti Italijanov Giuseppe Tartini Piran, je lepo obnovljena in gosti za javnost odprto spominsko sobo, posvečeno Giuseppu Tartiniju. Za to skrbi Pokrajinski muzej »Sergej Mašera« Piran. V njej so poleg ene od ohranjenih mojstrovih violin še nekateri osebni predmeti in več dokumentov, izposojenih iz zbirk Pokrajinskega arhiva. Zadnji hrani velik del glasbenikove korespondence in njegovih spisov o glasbi. Med njimi so tudi nekatera dela, ki so bistveno vplivala na razvoj evropskega violinizma v 18. stoletju. Tudi sosednja cerkvica sv. Petra se od Tartinijevega časa ni mnogo spremenila, in če se desno od nje po ozki kamnito tlakovani ulici povzpnemo nekaj deset metrov, smo že pred vhodom v starodavni samostan, v katerem še danes domujejo mali bratje iz reda sv. Frančiška. Slikovit križni hodnik in ob njem ležeča cerkev sta prav taka, kot ju je poznal mladi Giuseppe Tartini, ki se je tam nedvomno večkrat mudil s svojim uglednim in premožnim očetom; ta je postal leta 1699 zaščitnik tega samostana in pridobil pravico do družinske grobnice, ki se nahaja v sredini cerkvene ladje. Giuseppe Tartini je bil vse življenje na razne načine povezan s tem redom. Oče ga je prvotno namenil za redovnika ali duhovnika, a se je ognjeviti mladenič, ki je bil pri šestnajstih letih poslan v Padovo, raje odločil za neduhovno življenje. Slovel je kot odličen mečevalec. Pri osemnajstih letih se je poročil, zaradi česar je moral zbežati. Zatekel se je v minoritski samostan v Assisiju, kjer se je posvetil glasbi in violini. Prav njegova izvrstna igra na to glasbilo mu je v naslednjih letih pomagala iz anonimnosti v vrh evropske glasbene elite. Ustalil se je v Padovi, kjer je z izjemo triletnega premora v Pragi deloval kot violinist, učitelj, skladatelj in glasbeni mislec vse do smrti leta 1770. Pokopan je v Padovi. Giuseppe Tartini je pustil neizbrisen pečat v evropski glasbeni kulturi predvsem kot inventivni virtuoz na violini in pedagog. Njegovo šolo so spoštljivo imenovali »šola narodov«, saj je imel poleg italijanskih tudi učence iz Francije, Nemčije, Dalmacije itd. Ustvaril je blizu 400 del za violino, predvsem koncertov in sonat, med katerimi je zagotovo najslavnejša tista, ki jo spremlja romantično obarvana zgodba o nadnaravnem izvoru, Vražji trilček, ki naj bi ga Tartini zapisal na podlagi sanj, v katerih mu je leta 1713 sonato zaigral sam vrag. Veliki violinist ni nikoli pozabil rodnega Pirana in družine. Z bratom in predvsem nečakom si je bolj ali manj redno dopisoval in jima z oporoko zapustil svoje imetje. Zato se danes v Piranu nahaja bogata zapuščina njegovih rokopisov, korespondence in teoretskih razprav, ena od 90


VIOLINIST GIUSEPPE TARTINI

Violina, na katero je zelo verjetno igral tudi Tartini, je danes eksponat v Tartinijevi spominski sobi, za njeno vitalnost pa redno skrbi mladi slovenski violinist Žiga Faganel in z njo občasno tudi nastopa. njegovih violin ter nekaj osebnih predmetov. Tartinijeva glasbena dela so ostala v arhivu padovanske bazilike oz. pri njegovih učencih. Mesto Piran je seveda na svojega slavnega meščana in glasbenika ponosno in njegovo prisotnost je zaznati na vseh nivojih. Po Giuseppu Tartiniju se imenujeta osrednji trg s spomenikom in njegova rojstna hiša, v imenu ga nosi Skupnost Italijanov v tem mestu, prav tako ena od osrednjih mestnih kulturnih ustanov Gledališče Tartini, obiskovalci lahko bivajo v Hotelu Tartini, kjer pijejo čaj iz Tartinijevih skodelic in si nazdravijo z vinom znamke Giuseppe Tartini, ali pa si v Čokoladnici na Tartinijevem trgu kupijo slastne praline linije Giuseppe Tartini.

Za prisotnost duha osebnosti in glasbe Giuseppa Tartinija med meščani in obiskovalci najzvesteje skrbi že imenovana Skupnost Italijanov, ki od leta 1996 vsako leto v aprilu in vse do poletnih mesecev pripravlja sklope prireditev Omaggio a Tartini – Poklon Tartiniju. Te obsegajo od koncertov, razstav, strokovnih srečanj do otroških delavnic. Sicer pa poleti redno poteka tudi glasbeni festival Tartini. Poleg najširši publiki namenjenih prireditev se je Tartinija od leta 1992 že trikrat še posebej spomnila tudi muzikološka stroka. Osrednja znanstvena ustanova, ki se ukvarja s starejšo glasbeno dediščino, Muzikološki inštitut ZRC SAZU, bo tako v letu 2013 ponovno priredil mednarodno študijsko srečanje, namenjeno razpravi o stanju raziskav življenja in dela Giuseppa Tartinija.

Še posebno živahno je v Piranu letošnje leto, saj vse kulturne ustanove v mestu združene praznujejo okroglo 320. obletnico rojstva Giuseppa Tartinija. V aprilu se je že zvrstila vrsta dogodkov, koncerti, predstavitev novonapisanega romana o Tartiniju, odprtje številnih razstav itd., ki domačine in obiskovalce opozarjajo na Giuseppa Tartinija. Koncerti se nadaljujejo v poletnih mesecih in v načrtu je prenova spominske sobe pa izdaja CD-ja s Tartinijevo glasbo itd. Ponos in spomin na Giuseppa Tartinija v Piranu živita in se bosta nedvomno uresničevala v najrazličnejših oblikah tudi v prihodnosti.

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The Violinist Giuseppe Tartini – The Pride of Piran/Pirano TEXT: METODA KOKOLE, PhD (ZRC SAZU) PHOTOGRAPHY: IGOR LAPAJNE (ZRC SAZU)

At the southwesternmost point of Slovenia, where the blue waves of the Adriatic Sea caress the white rocks of the reinforced shore, stands the ancient town of Piran/Pirano. The earlier settlement grew into its current form during the time between the late 13th century and 1797 when the town was still governed by the Republic of Venice. Piran and its surroundings have survived as a bilingual area until the modern day, with Slovenian and Italian as the official languages. It was the Venetian architecture and cultural influences that gave the town its characteristic nature and appearance that still define it today. A typical Mediterranean town, Piran is crowded on a small peninsula, its narrow streets leading up a steep slope that rewards the visitors with breathtaking panoramic views. For the most part, the town’s wealth of cultural and historical heritage have survived and still attract visitors from all over the world. It was in this town, during the decline of the golden Venetian age, that Giuseppe was born as the fourth child of Giovanni Antonio Tartini and his wife Catterina, née Zangrando, who was from Piran. Born in Florence, Giovanni Antonio, a successful merchant and owner of several properties in the nearby Strunjan, became an important citizen of Piran. His son Giuseppe was christened on 8 April 1692 in the newly built baptistery next to the bell tower and the richly decorated parish 92

church of St. George. The church stands on the top of the hill, rising high above the imposing arches of the sea shore embankment below. The Tartini family home was situated at the old inner harbour, and this is where Giuseppe Tartini, who would later join the ranks of the most renowned musicians of his time, spent his carefree childhood years. Even in the present day, the large building – expanded to its current size by the musician’s father – continues to dominate the important town buildings in the central Piran square, opened in 1894 on the place of the drained old inner harbour. As part of the extensive celebrations commemorating the 200th birth anniversary of Piran’s most famous inhabitant, “the first violin of Europe”, “ the teacher of nations”, composer and music theorist, the new square was named after Tartini and a bronze statue of the violinist was unveiled there. Ever since, Tartini has been the main focus of the many cultural highlights that visitors cannot fail to notice when entering the old town centre of Piran. Today, the Tartini’s old home is the seat of the Italian Community “Giuseppe Tartini” of Piran; it has been beautifully renovated and houses a memorial room dedicated to Giuseppe Tartini. The memorial room is managed by the “Sergej Mašera” Regional Museum of Piran. In addition to one of the preserved violin, once played by the virtuoso Tartini, the room

exhibits include also some of his personal items and a number of original documents on loan from the Regional Archives, keeper of a number of Tartini’s letters and writings about music. Some of these writings have fundamentally affected the development of European violinism in the 18th century. The neighbouring church of St. Peter has not changed much since Tartini’s days either; a walk up the narrow paved street to the right of the church leads to the entrance of the ancient Minorite monastery still inhabited by the monks. The picturesque cloister and the church situated next to the monastery still look exactly as they did in Tartini’s time. Giuseppe was probably its frequent visitor as his wealthy and influential father became in 1699 one of the monastery’s benefactors, gaining thus the right to the family tomb located in the middle of the nave. Throughout his life, Giuseppe Tartini was in various ways connected to the Order of the Minorites. Initially, his father intended him for church, but the fiery young man, sent by his family to Padua at sixteen, rather chose a secular life. He was renowned for his fencing and at eighteen he married and was consequently forced to escape from Padua. He hid in the Minorite monastery in Assisi, where he focused on music and violin. Due to his virtuosity on violin he rose from complete anonymity to the


very top of the European music elite in the following years. Tartini eventually settled down in Padua, where – except for a three-year stay in Prague – he continued to work as violinist, teacher, composer and musical theorist until his death in 1770. He is buried in Padua.

The Tartini family crypt in the Church of St. Francis (sv. Frančišek) near the Minorite monastery.

Giuseppe Tartini has left a deep imprint on the European music culture. He was especially renowned as an inventive virtuoso on his instrument and a pedagogue. His school was revered as “the school of nations” as beside Italian students he had pupils from France, Germany, Dalmatia, etc. He wrote close to 400 compositions for violin, prevailingly concertos and sonatas. The most famous of the latter is undoubtedly the Devil’s Trill, according to the a romantic legend of its supernatural origin, composed in 1713 after Tartini had allegedly dreamt of the Devil himself playing for him this sonata.

The town of Piran is justly proud of its famous ‘son’ and musician. Giuseppe Tartini’s presence can be felt everywhere. The main town square is named after the musician and is dominated by his bronze statue. His birth house is called the Tartini House, and he gave name to the local Italian community. The Tartini Theatre is one of Piran’s leading cultural institutions. Meanwhile, visitors to the town can stay in the Hotel Tartini, drink tea from Tartini cups, toast with Giuseppe Tartini wine or buy delicious Guiseppe Tartini pralines from the chocolate shop in Tartini square.

The great violinist never forgot his native Piran and his family. He regularly corresponded with his brother and especially his nephew, bequeathing him his worldly possessions. This is why Piran can boast today with a rich legacy of Tartini’s manuscripts, letters and theoretical discussions, one of his violins and several personal items. Tartini’s musical works, however, remained in the hands of his pupils and employers and are now kept in the archives of the Paduan Basilica.

The spirit of Tartini’s personality and music has been most faithfully kept alive by the Italian Community “Giuseppe Tartini”. Since 1996 this institution has been organising the Omaggio a Tartini – Homage to Tartini, a festival that runs from April through the summer months and comprises countless concerts, exhibitions, lectures and children’s workshops. Additionally, the Tartini Festival of Music is held every summer. Setting aside events aimed at the general public, Tartini has been since 1992 at the focus of

already three scholarly meetings. Another international musicological conference dedicated to the state of research on Giuseppe Tartini’s life and works is planned for 2013 by the Institute of Musicology of the Scientific Research Centre of the Slovenian Academy of Sciences and Arts – the leading institution specialised in early music heritage in Slovenia. This year Giuseppe Tartini is in special focus of various cultural institutions of Piran as they have joined forces to celebrate the 320th anniversary of his birth. April has already seen a number of events, concerts, a presentation of a new novel about Tartini, several exhibitions, etc., all of which keep the memory of Tartini alive among inhabitants of Piran and visitors alike. The concerts are set to continue in the summer months. There are plans for the renovation of the memorial room, and a new CD with Tartini’s music is to come out soon. Giuseppe Tartini is the pride of Piran and a memory of this illustrious musician is more than alive and will undoubtedly continue in various ways also in the future. 93


092

Razbiti santorinski stereotipi

BESEDILO IN FOTOGRAFIJE: JOŽE BALAS

V iskanju

»Atlantide«

Kar pomnim, sem vedno potoval in odkrival svet v tako imenovani »low budget ruzak« izvedbi, pa naj je šlo za bolivijski Altiplano ali Buenos Aires na zahodu, potepanje po sulawesijskih gozdovih in kitajskih puščavskih rokavih puščave Gobi na vzhodu in nič drugače tudi po Evropi.


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razbiti santorinski stereotipi

Tokrat sva si s prijateljico Lili na tak način privoščila tudi Santorini, le da sem namesto ’ruzaka’ vzel star kovček na koleščkih, pri tem pa pozabil svoje utrujene treking superge zamenjati z belimi sandali – in že zaradi tega sem močno izstopal med potniki v letališki čakalnici, čeprav si tega res nisem želel. Santorini je res sanjski, vsaj tako se ga prodaja od 70. let, še posebej pa nekje od 80. let prejšnjega stoletja, ko je film Sommer Lovers povzročil pravo invazijo generacije mladih, ki so kot začarani iskali po otoku romantične kraje, na katerih se je Darryl Hannah ljubila s svojimi soigralci. In ni minilo dosti časa, ko je Santorini zavladal kikladskemu otočju. Seveda se ta razcvet ne more in se tudi ne bo mogel nikoli primerjati z razcvetom skrivnostne minojske kulture, ki je nekoč cvetela na tem otoku, da ne govorimo o ugibanjih, da naj bi prav ta vulkanski otok predstavljal zadnje ostanke legendarne Atlandite, če že ni celo kriv za njeno uničenje in izginotje. No, sam vulkan je še vedno živ, zadnji izbruh, pa sploh ne tako tragičen, se je zgodil pred desetletji, danes pa se na njegovem kraterju brezksrbno, a množično drenjajo turisti, ki v gosjem redu in pri skoraj 40 stopinjah dokaj neprijetne vročine dobesedno šibajo gor in dol, pozirajo in se celo sončijo, tlačijo kamne v žepe in že hitijo nazaj v majhno pristanišče, da ne zamudijo svoje ladje, trajekta ali pa kakšnega večjega čolna, ki vozi po točno določenem urniku in zamudnikov prav nič ne tolerira. Od tam hitijo na Thirasio, kjer si tisti najbolj utrujeni lahko za kakšno uro oddahnejo in mogoče celo kaj pojejo v kakšni od ne prav avtentičnih in prijetnih restavracij na obali; drugi pa se lahko sami ali pa s pomočjo osličkov povzpnejo na kaldero otoka, od koder se razprostira prelep razgled na star vulkanski krater celotnega otoka oziroma na tisto, kar je po tisti nesrečni ekploziji pred tisočletji od njega še ostalo. In če se te male restavracije ne morejo ravno pohvaliti s svežimi ribami in ostalimi morskimi specialitetami – v vasi je namreč ne samo premalo ribičev, ampak tudi prebivalcev –, da bi lahko nalovili in nahranili takšne trume turistov, ki se vsakodnevno valijo v to malo pristaniško mesto, se malo bolj skromni turist lahko zadovolji tudi s prijetno ledeno ohlajenim pivom in preprostim girosom, kljub velikemu ladijskemu prometu pa tudi s kristalno čisto vodo, ki odlično regenerira pregreto telo. Tako kot mali Therasia tudi Santorini glede na število turistov sam enostavno ne premore zadostiti vsem potrebam po gurmanskih užitkih, zato se velika večina hrane vozi tja s celine in okoliških otokov. Domačini se, če se že morajo, raje ukvarjajo s turizmom in njegovimi derivati kakor s kakšno drugo dejavnostjo, saj enostavno ne morejo konkurirati grosističnim 96

»uvoznikom«. Zato ne bodite presenečeni, če se bodo na vašem krožniku znašle odmrzneje ribe, raki, hobotnice ... Restavracije in gostilne, ki bi gostom lahko ponudile dnevno sveže ulovljene »domače« ribe, je namreč neverjetno težko najti. Mogoče še najlažje pri kakšnem domačinu ali pa v manjšem družinskem penzionu, sveže ulovljene so namreč prodane že za celo sezono vnaprej prestižnim restavracijam in hotelom. Enako je z ostalo hrano, saj kakšnega razširjenega poljedelstva ni opaziti na obronkih vulkana, niti kmetij ne ali pa bog ne daj prašičjih ali kurjih farm – te bi se v tej vročini prej zavohale; tovrstno meso je namreč kar pogosto tako na jedilnikih kot tudi na samih krožnikih. Edino, kar je opaziti, so nasadi paradižnika – ta s Santorinija naj bi dosegel svetovno slavo – in vinska trta; vinogradov je kar nekaj, zelo urejenih, napisi ob cestah vabijo v različne vinske kleti raznovrstnih vsebin. Drugače pa je Santorini poln lokalov, kjer ponujajo različne specialitete in še enkrat specialitete; in tu velja tako kot povsod po svetu za nasvet vprašati lokalce, saj je »turist trap« lokalov enostavno preveč, tako cenovno kot tudi po kvaliteti. In kadarkoli sva se ravnala po nasvetu domačinov, sva jedla dobro in tudi poceni, in kadakoli sva lokal izbrala brez pomisleka, sva bila lačna in praznih žepov. Kljub stereotipu, da je prehrana na Santoriniju pregrešno draga, je to še en stereotip, ki ne velja. Veliko je lokalov, kjer se da jesti zelo dobro, celo odlično, pa se cene bistveno ne razlikujejo od povprečnih cen pri nas. Že samo dejstvo, da ne jeste ob glavni ulici, ampak se zapeljete v sosednjo vas, kjer turistov skorajda ni, pomeni, da takega izleta ne boste nikoli pozabili. Santorini je seveda znan tudi po svojih vulkanskih črnih plažah. Posebnost jim daje že omenjeni vulkanski pesek, ki pa ga seveda ni na vsaki plaži. Največja in menda najbolj znana plaža je ’šodrasta’, nekatere so tudi kamnite, in kaj hitro te lahko nepredvidljvi morski valovi položijo po tleh. Na teh plažah se ponavadi niti ne gnete toliko turistov, kot bi človek pričakoval po predhodnem jutranjem ogledovanju, so pa seveda urejene nekako po cenovnih razredih. Sem spadajo oblazinjena ležišča z mizicami, obvezno senco, »tlakovanimi« potmi ipd.


Santorini je v prvi vrsti turističen otok, od tega živijo njegova slava in večina prebivalstva pa tudi tujcev. In brez skrbi, tudi tam se da preživeti dopust sorazmerno poceni, kar razbija še en sterEotip o tem sanjskem otoku.

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razbiti santorinski stereotipi

In ker je poleti ponavadi peklensko vroče, bife pa je šele čez cesto, imate na voljo zvonec, ponekod tudi telefon, in vaša ohlajena bira je v trenutku pri vas. Seveda pa obstajajo tudi malo manj prestižne plaže, preproste, brez osnovne »infrastrukture«, zato pa daleč od ponorelega sveta. In čeprav se zdi, da je Santorini eno samo veliko turistično naselje, predstavljajo največjo nevarnost, da se zataknete v kakšni zakotni ulici, prav turisti s plavajočih hotelov, pravih križark, ki se drenjajo v pristanišču pod pečinami. Domači vodniki jih s čolniči, avtobusi, pa tudi z osli tako rekoč od zore do mraka prevažajo do pečin, na katerih domujejo značilne bele vasice Fira, Imeroviglija in Oia. Ozke ulice se spremenijo v počasni multinacionalni gosji red, fotografiranje kakšnega portala ali pa zanimivega detajla ulice postane misija nemogoče. Polne so ulice, polne gostilne, restavracije in ’kafiči’, polne so ’štacune’. Takrat se zdi, da je še najbolje, da si poiščete hladno senco v eni od 120 cerkva na otoku. Pred ogledom mestnih znamenitosti vrh kaldere se splača najprej pogledati v pristanišče, kjer se proti popoldnevu sidrajo ogromne križarke in napovedujejo, da se je neznosno pretesnih ulic Oie najbolje izogniti; nekaj prostih motivov je le še pod milim nebom, pa še ta se že kakšno uro pred sončnim zahodom tudi zagrne. Strehe, balkoni, zidovi, terase so namreč zasedeni do zadnjega centimetra, čakajoč, da sonce potone v noč in utopi še en zgrešen in zavajajoč stereotip. Skratka, zaradi sončnega 98

zahoda vam res ni treba hoditi na Santorini. Pa tudi zaradi rajskih plaž ne, tudi ne zaradi pristne grške kulinarike, sirtakija ... Ampak kot sem že omenil, vse je stvar osebnega okusa; in ne pozabite, da vam v tem trenutku daje napotke nekdo, ki se za to pot ni niti primerno obul. Imate torej vsaj en dober razlog, da me ne jemljete resno in vseeno odkrijete svojo »Atlantido« v njenem popolnem blišču in slavi. Vendar pa vas Santorini lahko vseeno preseneti s svojo preprostostjo, saj ponuja tudi nekaj vsakdanjega zadovoljstva in užitkov. Že sama Perisa, njene plaže veljajo za ene najlepših, je pravo olajšanje in nasprotje »industrijskim« mestom na vrhu kaldere; če pa z glavne ceste zavijete malo na slepo, se lahko na snežno belih ulicah Pyrgosa počutite celo osamljeno. Kakor koli, tam imajo tudi kulinarične zanimivosti popolnoma drugačen okus. In če hočete pobegniti stran od gneče, vas lahko stranske ceste čisto po naključju pripeljejo do prijaznih domačinov, ki se še vedno preživljajo na način, kot so se preživljali njihovi dedi, res pa je, da jih je le še za vzorec. In te poti vas lahko na koncu presenetijo še s kakšno drugo znamenitostjo, pa naj si bodo to kakšne skrite in neobljudene plaže, snežno bele crekvice, ostanki mogočnih mlinov na veter, osamljenih zaselkov ... Vendar ne pričakujte preveč: Santorini je v prvi vrsti turističen otok, od tega živijo njegova slava in večina prebivalstva pa tudi tujcev. In brez skrbi, tudi tam se da preživeti dopust sorazmerno poceni, kar razbija še en stereotip o tem sanjskem otoku.


BREAKING THE SANTORINI STEREOTYPES

Breaking the Santorini Stereotypes On the Search for “Atlantis” TEXT and photography: Jože balas

For as long as I can remember, I have always done my world travelling and exploring the low budget way, with a backpack on my back, regardless of whether I was going to Altiplano or Buenos Aires in the West, discovering the forests of Sulawesi or the Chinese parts of the Gobi desert in the East or simply wandering around Europe. This time around, my friend Lili and I went backpacking to Santorini, except that I replaced my backpack with an old suitcase on wheels. Unfortunately, I had neglected to replace my worn out trekking shoes with white sandals, which made me stick out like a sore thumb from the remaining passengers waiting at the airport gate even though that was the last thing I wanted. Santorini has been marketed as a dream paradise ever since the 1970s, but even more so since the 1980s when the film Summer Lovers caused a veritable invasion of a whole generation of young people who would wander around the island in a daze, looking for the romantic locations where Daryl Hannah had made love to her co-stars. It did not take long for Santorini to become the most popular destination in The Cyclades. Obviously, this boost in popularity does

not even come close to the boom of the mysterious Minoan culture that once flourished on the island. There are also several theories claiming that the volcanic island of Santorini is actually what remains of the legendary island of Atlantis or that an eruption of the Santorini volcano was what caused the destruction and disappearance of Atlantis. The volcano is still active today, although it last erupted (with only minor consequences) some decades ago, and its crater is now surrounded by endless queues of carefree tourists. Ignoring the unpleasant 40° C heat, they race up the hill and pose for a photo or even sunbathe for a while; then they stuff a few rocks in their pockets and rush back to the small harbour in order to catch their ship, ferry or even just a large boat that runs on a tight schedule and has no time to wait for latecomers. From there, tourists hurry on to Therasia, where the most tired among them take an hour to rest and maybe get something to eat in one of the none too authentic or pleasant restaurants along the shore. Others climb, either on their own or with the help of rented donkeys, up to the caldera, which offers wonderful views of the island’s old volcanic crater or rather what is left of it after that destructive eruption thousands of years ago. There are not enough fishermen – or even inhabitants in general – in Therasia to bring in the amount of fresh fish and other seafood that would be required to feed the hordes of tourists coming in to this tiny harbour town every day. But even so, the ice cold beer and simple gyros on offer in the small local restaurants should be enough to satisfy any but the most demanding of tourists. Add to this the refreshing water that has remained crystal clear despite the heavy ship traffic and you have everything you need to regenerate your overheated body. Much like the tiny Therasia, Santorini gets far too many tourists to be able to satisfy their search for gourmet pleasures, so the majority of the food is brought in from the mainland and the neighbouring islands. If they have no other choice, the locals prefer to work in tourism and related branches rather than in any other industry, since it is virtually impossible to compete with the wholesale “importers”. 99


BREAKING THE SANTORINI STEREOTYPES

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BREAKING THE SANTORINI STEREOTYPES

Don’t be surprised if you are faced with defrosted fish, crab and octopus on your plate. It is incredibly difficult to find a restaurant or tavern that is able to serve daily fresh, locally caught fish to its guests. Your best chance is probably with a local or a small family inn, but most of the freshly caught fish is sold to the prestigious restaurants and hotels in advance for the entire season. The same goes for other kinds of food; there are hardly any fields or farms to be seen on the slopes of the volcano. There are no pig or poultry farms either (you would definitely be able to smell them in this heat), even though pork and chicken are frequently served and consumed here. The only things you do see are fields of tomatoes – Santorini tomatoes are world famous – and a considerable number of well-maintained vineyards, with roadside signs advertising various wines and wine cellars. Santorini is bursting at the seams with restaurants and taverns offering various “local specialities”. Like anywhere else in the world, the best thing to do if you want to avoid the overpriced, low quality tourist traps is to ask a local for a recommendation. Every time we followed the locals’ advice, we enjoyed a good meal at a low price, while choosing a random tavern without consulting anybody inevitably resulted in an empty stomach and empty pockets. Despite this, the claim that restaurants on Santorini are hugely expensive is another stereotype that is simply not true. There are plenty of places where you can find a good – even great – meal at a price no different to the average prices in Slovenia. Not to mention the fact that forgoing a restaurant on the main street and driving to a neighbouring village instead where there are hardly any tourists is something that will make your vacation truly memorable. Santorini is also famous for its black beaches. They are coloured black by the volcanic sand, which is only present on some beaches. The largest and most popular beach is covered in pebbles; some of the other beaches are rocky and the unpredictable waves can soon knock you off your feet. These beaches are generally not as crowded with tourists as you would expect after the first morning walk, but they do differ by price. The more prestigious beaches feature padded sun loungers and tables in the shade, paved paths, etc. Since it is normally boiling hot in the summer and the bar is across the road, you are provided with a bell or sometimes even a telephone that you can use to order a cold beer. Obviously there are less prestigious beaches as well – simple and without the basic “infrastructure”, but quiet and far from the crowds. Although Santorini can seem like an enormous tourist village, you are actually more likely to get stuck in a side street in a crowd of tourists from one of the “floating hotels” – the many cruise ships jammed in the harbour below the cliffs. From dusk till down, these tourists are ferried by local guides on boats, buses and donkeys to the cliffs to see the characteristic whitewashed villages of Fira, Imerovigli and Oia. The narrow streets gradually turn into one long multinational queue, and taking a picture of a portal or interesting detail in the street becomes mission impossible. The streets are crowded, the restaurants, taverns and cafes are crowded and the shops are crowded. In this situation, it seems that the best thing to do is to relax in the cool and refreshing shade of one of the island’s 120 churches. Before seeing the town sights at the top of the caldera, it is worth stopping at the harbour. The enormous cruise ships mooring there towards the afternoon are a sure sign that the narrow streets of Oia will be overcrowded and are best to be avoided. The only place to find a few opportunities for taking pictures is out in the open, but even that loses its appeal about an hour before sunset. Every square centimetre on the roofs, balconies, walls and terraces is filled with people waiting to see the day turn into night; and so another misleading stereotype is broken. The sunset is definitely not a good enough reason to come to Santorini. Neither are the paradise beaches, genuine Greek cuisine, sirtaki … In the end, everything comes down to personal taste; and remember, the person giving you advice right now is someone who didn’t even manage to wear the right shoes for this trip. So you have at least one good reason not to take me seriously and discover “Atlantis” for yourself in all its splendour and glory.

Santorini may still surprise you with its simplicity – it does offer some simple pleasures and enjoyment. Perissa is a revelation, its beaches – considered to be among the most beautiful on the island – the antidote to the “industrial” towns at the top of the caldera. Take a few turns off the main road and you might actually find yourself all alone on the snow white streets of Pyrgos. Even the culinary specialities have an entirely different taste there. If you are looking to escape the crowds, stick to the side roads; with a bit of luck, they will lead you to the friendly locals still making their living in the tradition of their grandparents. Unfortunately, very few of them remain. Or maybe the side roads will reward you in some other way, be it with a hidden and deserted beach, a pristine white church, the remains of a majestic windmill or a lonely village …

Santorini is above all a tourist island. That is what perpetuates its reputation and provides the majority of its population, as well as a number of foreigners, with a living. And don’t worry, even on Santorini you can have a relatively low budget vacation, breaking another stereotype about this island paradise. 101


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Pot nekega oreščka BESEDILO/fotografije: Noemie De Pas/tit brecelj

Pravična trgovina v

Burkini Faso


Ali si lahko predstavljamo, koliko poti opravi majhen indijski orešček, preden se znajde pred vami? Si lahko zamislimo, koliko ljudi ga predela in obdela, koliko ust »nahrani« in koliko družin osreči?

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Zgodba o indijskem oreščku ali akažuju, kot se tudi imenuje, se je začela v porečju Amazonke, kjer so ga v 16. stoletju odkrili Portugalci. V naslednjih stoletjih so drevo zasadili v Afriki in Aziji. Na začetku so ga sadili le na obrežja rek, saj je zaradi svojih globokih korenin preprečeval erozijo tal. Sistematično so drevo začeli izkoriščati v Indiji, kjer je sredi 20. stoletja indijski orešček postal pomemben izvozni pridelek – država je bila še do osemdesetih let prejšnjega stoletja vodilna pridelovalka, predelovalka in izvoznica, šele v zadnjih letih je primat prepustila Vietnamu in Braziliji. Indijski oreh gre med predelavo skozi vrsto dolgotrajnih procesov, ki zahtevajo veliko človeške delovne sile – v glavnem so to ženske, ki jih delodajalci zaradi deprivilegiranega socialnega statusa plačujejo manj kot moške. Ko je oreh končno pripravljen na izvoz, se predelovalec sooči z zapletenimi zakonitostmi mednarodne trgovine, zahtevami izvoznikov in uvoznikov, grosistov in trgovcev. Države Zahodne Afrike, ki so po številu pridelanih »surovih« orehov med vodilnimi na svetu, 90 odstotkov svojega pridelka takoj izvozijo in tako izgubijo več kot 50 milijonov evrov, ki bi jih lahko ustvarile s predelavo. Mednarodne razvojne agencije, med katerimi je tudi razvojna fundacija Billa Gatesa, so v zadnjih letih vložile veliko truda, da bi ta trend obrnile. Pot našega oreščka se je začela v Zahodni Afriki na obrobju drugega največjega mesta v Burkini Faso, Bobu Dioulassu. Natančneje, v zadrugi Yanta, eni od mnogih predelovalnih obratov na jugozahodu Burkine Faso. Zadrugo je leta 2002 ob pomoči burkinskega ministrstva za okolje 104

in luksemburške razvojne agencije LuxDev ustanovilo več kot 900 žensk, ki so se do tedaj preživljale z nezakonito sečnjo lesa v zaščitenem gozdu na obrobju mesta. Temeljna ideja ministrstva je bila, da se ženskam ponudi priložnost za izboljšanje življenjske ravni in obenem zaščiti gozdne površine pred divjim izsekavanjem. Zadrugo zdaj sestavlja 32 ženskih skupin, ki predelujejo karitejevo maslo, pridelujejo med, sezam, hibiskus in lokalna žita ter predelujejo indijske oreščke. Izvirni namen projekta Yanta je bil, da bi čim več dodane vrednosti končnega izdelka ustvarilo lokalno prebivalstvo. Predvsem je to pomembno v širšem kontekstu mednarodne trgovine, kjer zaradi nepravičnih trgovinskih zakonitosti večino dodane vrednosti pridelkov na jugu ustvarjajo podjetja na severu. S podobnimi projekti države na jugu tako niso le vir surovin, ki jih severu prodajajo pod ceno, temveč same ustvarijo del dodane vrednosti. V tem duhu je lahko Burkina Faso zgled ostalim državam v regiji, saj je največja izvoznica predelanih indijskih orehov v Zahodni Afriki. Veliko burkinskih pridelovalcev in predelovalcev je v zadnjem času pridobilo certifikate za ekološko pridelavo, med njimi leta 2011 tudi zadruga Yanta. Ženske so v zadnjih desetih letih prehodile dolgo in pomembno pot. »Še pred kratkim sem za golo preživetje izsekavala gozd, zdaj imam trajen vir dohodka. Naučila sem se pisati in brati, pred tremi leti so me izvolili za predsednico zadruge,« mi je zaupala petdesetletna Nathalie, mati osmih otrok z dolgo in težko osebno zgodbo za sabo.

»Projekt je resnično naredil veliko za nas: prej smo bile lačne in izčrpane, zdaj smo lepe in imamo veliko upanja,« je v smehu dodala. Veliko žensk se je naučilo brati v lokalnem jeziku djoula, nekatere so se naučile govoriti francosko. Skoraj vse članice imajo (vsaj) del leta zagotovljen reden vir dohodka, kar jim v družbi, kjer moški upravljajo z viri prihodka, zagotavlja finančno neodvisnost in enakovrednejši status v gospodinjstvu. V obratu za predelavo indijskih oreščkov vlada delovno vzdušje: v skladišče prihajajo prve vreče orehov, v učilnici poteka opismenjevanje članic zadruge, Maimouna je pravkar v sončni pečici »spekla« veganske piškotke ... Ženske z optimizmom gledajo v prihodnost, predvsem pa so ponosne na solidarnost, ki jih povezuje, in na pot, ki so jo prehodile v zadnjih letih. Nathalie in ostale vodilne v zadrugi so se zadnje leto aktivno pripravljale na konec desetletnega projekta. Kljub temu da se bo julija letos projekt zaključil, bosta burkinsko ministrstvo in LuxDev še naprej finančno podpirala zadrugo. Svet mednarodne trgovine, zapleten sistem izvoznikov, špediterjev, uvoznikov, certifikatov, strogih določil EU in neznan svet trženja in komuniciranja so preprosto prezapleteni za tako mlado zadrugo, kot je Yanta, mi je v neformalnem pogovoru priznal predstavnik organizacije LuxDev. Zadrugi je na srečo lansko leto in letos obljubil švicarski izvoznik odkup večine predelanih orehov. Zorenje plodov indijskega oreha se nagiba v drugo polovico, prve vreče orehov so že v skladišču. Letos bo pridelek slabši, indijski trgovci pa so ponovno »uspeli« zvišati odkupno ceno »surovih« orehov. Upajo


Ženske z optimizmom gledajo v prihodnost, predvsem pa so ponosne na solidarnost, ki jih povezuje, in na pot, ki so jo prehodile v zadnjih letih.

le, da bo v skladišču dovolj orehov za predelavo in da je »prodajni oddelek« zadruge uspel zagotoviti delo do konca leta. Kljub temu ženske še niso izgubile upanja in se pripravljajo na nov cikel dela.

Hranilne vrednosti Tako kot večina oreščkov so indijski oreščki polni beljakovin in vlaknin. Kljub visoki vsebnosti maščob vsebujejo dobre maščobe in se tako uvrščajo med oreščke z malo maščobami. Izmed drugih oreščkov (mandljev, orehov, lešnikov in ostalih) imajo celo najmanj maščob. Zdravilne učinkovine Indijski oreščki so zdrava prehrana, predvsem za srčne bolnike, saj znižujejo tveganje za bolezni srca in ožilja. Ker imajo visoke vrednosti nenasičenih maščobnih kislin, pomagajo pri vzdrževanju dobrega holesterola. Burkina Faso Država v Zahodni Afriki, »ujeta« med Mali, Slonokoščeno obalo, Niger, Benin in Togo. Trenutno brez pomembnih in strateških surovin je Burkina Faso predvsem poljedelska država – več kot 80 odstotkov prebivalstva goji bombaž, koruzo in ostala lokalna žita. »Kjer ni nafte, tam vlada mir,« pravijo Burkinci, ki so zelo ponosni na svojo kulturno izročilo in na to, da 62 etničnih skupin živi skupaj v miru.


The Journey of a Simple Nut

Can you imagine how far a small cashew nut has travelled before it finally reaches you?

The Journey of a Simple Nut Fair Trade in Burkina Faso TEXT/PHOTOGRAPHY: NOEMIE DE pas/TIT BRECELJ

Have you ever thought about how many people it takes to grow and process cashew nuts, or how many mouths cashew nuts feed and how many families they make happy? The story of cashew nuts dates back to the 16th century, when they were first discovered in the Amazon River basin by the Portuguese. In the following centuries, cashew trees were planted in Africa and Asia. Initially, they were only planted on river banks, since their deep reaching roots helped to prevent erosion. Cashew trees were systematically cultivated in India, making cashew nuts one of the country’s major exports in the mid-20th century. India remained the leading producer, processor and exporter of cashews until the 1980s, and it was not until recently that it was overtaken by Vietnam and Brazil. 106

The processing of cashew nuts consists of a long line of lengthy processes that require large numbers of workers; these are mostly women, whose underprivileged social status means that they are paid lower wages than men. Once the cashews are finally ready to be exported, the processor is faced with complex international trade laws and the demands imposed by exporters and importers, wholesalers and retailers. The countries in Western Africa that rank among the leading producers of “raw” cashews export as much as 90% of their produce immediately, thus losing over EUR 50 million that could have been earned by processing the nuts. In recent years, international development agencies – including the Bill & Melinda Gates Foundation aimed at global development – have been investing a lot of effort into trying to reverse this trend. Our cashew nut’s journey starts in Western Africa, on the outskirts of Burkina Faso’s second largest city, Bobo-Dioulasso. More precisely, it starts at the Yanta co-operative, one of the many processing plants in Southwestern Burkina Faso. With support from the Burkina Faso Ministry of the Environment and the Luxembourg development agency LuxDev, the co-operative was founded in 2002 by over 900 women who had previously eked out a living by chopping wood illegally in a protected forest on the city’s outskirts. The Ministry’s intention was to provide women with an opportunity to improve their quality of life while at the same time protecting forests from illegal logging. The

co-operative currently comprises 32 groups of women; they produce honey, sesame, hibiscus and local grains and process shea butter and cashew nuts. Originally, the aim of the Yanta project was to ensure that as much added value for the end product as possible was generated by the local population. This is particularly important in the wider context of international trade, where unbalanced trade laws mean that most of the added value for products from the South is generated by companies in the North. Rather than remaining mere sources of raw materials that are then underpriced in the North, countries in the South can now generate a share of the added value themselves, thanks to projects such as Yanta. It is this spirit that has made Burkina Faso an example for other countries in the region and the largest exporter of processed cashew nuts in Western Africa. In recent years, many of Burkina Faso’s producers and processors have successfully acquired certificates for organic production. The Yanta co-operative joined their ranks in 2011. In the last ten years, the women have made a long and important journey. “It was only recently that I still had to cut down trees in the forest in order to survive, but now I have a permanent source of income. I've learnt to read and write; three years ago, I was elected president of the co-operative,” says 50-year-old Nathalie, mother of eight and a woman with a long and difficult personal history.


The Journey of a Simple Nut

“This project has truly done a lot for us: we used to be hungry and exhausted, but now we’re beautiful and filled with hope,” she laughs. Many of the women have learnt to read Dioula, the local language, and some have even learnt to speak French. Virtually every member of the co-operative has a guaranteed regular source of income for (at least) part of the year; in a society where sources of income are managed by men, this gives the women financial independence and a more equal status in the household. There is an industrious atmosphere in the cashew nut processing plant: the first bags of cashews are being delivered to the warehouse, the classroom is filled with cooperative members learning to read, Maimouna has just “baked” a fresh batch of vegan cookies in the solar oven … The women are optimistic about their future, but most of all they are proud of the solidarity that binds them together and of the journey that they have made in recent years. For the last year, Nathalie and other co-operative leaders have been actively preparing for the end of the ten-year project. However, despite the fact that the project is coming to an end this year in July, the Burkina Faso Ministry of the Environment and LuxDev will continue to provide financial support for the co-operative. The world of international trade, the complex system of exporters, forwarding agents, importers, certificates and strict EU provisions and the unfamiliar world of marketing and communication are simply too complicated for a co-operative as relatively young as Yanta,

admitted a LuxDev representative in an informal conversation. Fortunately, last year as well as this year, a Swiss exporter has pledged to buy the majority of the processed cashews from the co-operative. The cashew tree fruits are almost ripe, and the first bags of nuts have been stored in the warehouse. The harvest will be smaller this year; meanwhile, Indian traders have successfully driven up the purchase price of “raw” cashews yet again. The women, however, refuse to give up hope. They are starting the preparations for a new cycle of work.

They hope that the volume of cashews in the warehouse will suffice for processing and that the cooperative’s “sales department” will succeed in providing them with work until the year is out.

Nutritional value Like most nuts, cashews are bursting with protein and fibre. Their fat content is relatively high, but since a large share of it consists of good fats, cashews are considered to be low-fat nuts. In fact, they actually contain less fat than any other nuts (almonds, walnuts, hazelnuts, etc.). Medicinal properties Cashews are a healthy food; they reduce the risk of cardiovascular diseases, so they are particularly recommended for heart patients. Since cashew nuts are high in unsaturated fatty acids, they contribute to maintaining a good level of blood cholesterol. Burkina Faso This Western African country borders Mali, Côte d’Ivoire, Niger, Benin and Togo. Currently without any important and strategic raw materials, Burkina Faso is predominantly an agricultural country – more than 80% of the population is occupied with cultivating cotton, corn and other local grains. “Where there is a lack of oil, there is an abundance of peace,” say the locals, justifiably proud of their cultural heritage and of the fact that in Burkina Faso there are as many as 62 different ethnic groups living in peaceful coexistence.

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A

IGR A N D A

GR

NA A K I L E

V

n o d n V Lo ! o g a m z o p i v O! ž v i O si Oglej

OdpOtuj v LOndOn kOt navijač!

Sodeluj v nagradnih igrah sponzorjev Teama Slovenie ali OKS-a in odpotuj v London z najboljšim slovenskim timom. Sponzorji Teama Slovenie in Olimpijski komite Slovenije bodo prvič odpeljali več kot sto slovenskih navijačev na olimpijske igre z olimpijskijskim navijaškim letalom. Poteguj se za svoj sedež na olimpijskem letalu in odpotuj v London skupaj s Petro Majdič.

vEč na: www.olympic.si

Slovenia Olympic Team

@TeamSlovenia

ZLATI PARTNER OLIMPIJSKEGA KOMITEJA SLOVENIJE


niti e n d i v ne kemo t o n d Še ve zemljo n i m o 20 let. eb e ž n o d e im m no vod r a v s ter va

Kontrola zraËnega prometa Slovenije, d.o.o. SLOVENIA CONTROL, Slovenian Air Navigation Services, Limited Kotnikova 19a, SI-1000 Ljubljana, www.sloveniacontrol.si p: +386 1 47 34 850, faks/f: +386 1 47 34 860, e: info@sloveniacontrol.si


flyljubljana Nagrajujemo vašo zvestobo.

Program flyljubljana omogoča udobnejša in ugodnejša potovanja z Letališča Jožeta Pučnika Ljubljana.     

Brezplačno članstvo Ugodnejši letališki nakupi Udobnejša in ugodnejša letalska potovanja Posebne ponudbe izbranih partnerjev Nepozabna doživetja

Pridružite se nam! Izpolnite spletno pristopnico na www.flyljubljana.si ali s telefonom poskenirajte kodo. Pristopnice so na voljo tudi na okencih za prijavo na let v odhodni avli na letališču.


Foto: Cirkus

www.pivo-union.si


SLOVENIJA

Zelena. Aktivna. Zdrava. V deželi gozdov in voda vas čakajo navdihi aktivnega življenja. Spoznajte prizorišča zmagovalcev!

IZTOK ČOP

Prva olimpijska medalja za Slovenijo – zlata na OI 2000. Vesla na Bledu.

TINA MAZE

ROMAN KEJŽAR

EKIPA KOBILARNE LIPICA

VASILIJ ŽBOGAR

MATJAŽ GOJČIČ

PETER KAUZER

ANJA KLINAR

MARKO BALOH

PETRA MAJDIČ

Svetovna prvakinja v veleslalomu. Doma s slovenskih smučišč.

Srebrna medalje na OI 2008. Jadra tudi po slovenskem morju.

Srebrna medalja na EP v plavanju 2010. Sprošča se v slovenskih zdraviliščih.

Najboljši slovenski olimpijski maratonec. Zmaguje tudi na maratonu v Ljubljani.

Prvi slovenski golfist na European Tour. Vadi na slovenskih igriščih.

Svetovni rekorder v vztrajnostnem kolesarjenju. Trenira v Logarski dolini.

Organizira tekme v konjeništvu. Na slovenskem Krasu!

Zmagovalec SP 2011 v slalomu na divjih vodah. Doma premaguje reko Sočo.

Legendarna dobitnica olimpijske medalje v teku na smučeh. Ljubi Pohorje!

Izberite svoja doživetja na www.slovenia.info/activeholidays.


SLOVENIA

Green. Active. Healthy. The inspiration for a more active lifestyle can be found in this land of woods and water. Familiarize yourself with the scenery of winners!

IZTOK ČOP

The first Slovenian gold medal winner at Sydney 2000 rows on Lake Bled.

TINA MAZE

ROMAN KEJŽAR

THE LIPICA STUD FARM TEAM

VASILIJ ŽBOGAR

MATJAŽ GOJČIČ

PETER KAUZER

ANJA KLINAR

MARKO BALOH

PETRA MAJDIČ

The first female giant slalom world champion is at home on Slovenia’s ski slopes.

Our 2008 Olympic sailing silver medallist trains in the Adriatic Sea, off the coast of Slovenia.

The European swimming silver medallist takes time out at Slovenia’s health resorts.

Slovenia’s Olympic marathon hopeful is a multiple champion on the streets of Ljubljana.

The first Slovenian to make the European tour has a choice of world-class courses at home.

Slovenia’s world-record holding ultracyclist trains in the beautiful Logarska valley.

Organise equestrian competitions on the world famous Slovenian Karst.

The 2011 canoe slalom world champion loves to train on the Soča river.

Our Olympic cross-country skiing medallist loves Pohorje.

Choose your experience at www.slovenia.info/activeholidays.


SLOVENIJA / SLOVENIA Nekaj osnovnih podatkov A few facts površina (v km2) gozdovi travniki polja in vrtovi sadovnjaki vinogradi dolžina meje (v km) s Hrvaško z Avstijo z Italijo z Madžarsko obala (v km)

20 273 11 854 5 593 2 471 402 163 546 324 235 102 46,6

najvišja točka

Triglav

2864 m

gostota naseljenosti

(prebivalcev/km) 98 prebivalstvo 2 milijona glavno mesto: Ljubljana

večja mesta: Maribor, Celje, Kranj, Velenje podnebje: alpsko, celinsko, sredozemsko jezik: Uradni jezik je slovenščina, na območjih z mešanim prebivalstvom pa tudi madžarščina in italijanščina. Pri stiku s tujci uporabljajo prebivalci Slovenije največkrat angleščino, nemščino, italijanščino in francoščino. denarna valuta: Denarna valuta je evro (EUR). Tuje valute lahko zamenjate na mejnih prehodih, v bankah, menjalnicah in hotelih.

territory area (in sq. km) 20273

major towns:

forests grassland fields and gardens orchards vineyards border length (in km) with Croatia with Austria with Italy with Hungary coastline (in km)

Maribor, Celje, Kranj, Velenje Continental, Mediterranean language: The official language is Slovene, as well as Hungarian and Italian in areas of mixed population. People who live in Slovenia most commonly use English to communicate with foreigners, then German, Italian and French. currency: The currency is the euro (EUR). Foreign currency may be exchanged at border crossings, in banks, exchange offices and hotels.

11 854 5 593 2 471 402 163 546 324 235 102 46.6

highest point

Triglav

2864 m

population density

(inhabitants/km) 98 population 2 million capital: Ljubljana

climate: Alpine,

prazniki

holidays

1. in 2. januar novo leto 8. februar Prešernov dan, slovenski kulturni praznik 8. april velika noč 27. april dan upora proti okupatorju (druga svetovna vojna) 1. in 2. maj praznik dela 25. junij dan državnosti 15. avgust Marijino vnebovzetje 31. oktober dan reformacije 1. november dan spomina na mrtve 25. december božič 26. december dan samostojnosti

January 1 & 2 New Year’s Holiday February 8 Prešeren Day, Slovene Day of Culture April 8 Easter Sunday and Monday April 27 Day of Uprising Against the Occupation (WW2) May 1 & 2 Labour Day, Pentecost June 25 Statehood Day August 15 Assumption Day October 31 Reformation Day November 1 All Saints’ Day December 25 Christmas Day December 26 Independence Day


Copenhagen Manchester

Amsterdam

London

Brussels

Frankfurt

Munich Zurich

Vienna

Ljubljana

Verona

Belgrade Sarajevo Dubrovnik

Barcelona

Pristina

Podgorica Skopje

Menorca Ibiza

Tirana

Palma de Mallorca

Istanbul Thessaloniki Thassos

Kerkira/Corfu Lefkas Kefalonija Zakinthos

Malta

Skiatos

Lesbos Chios Samos Mykonos Santorini

Rhodos Karpatos

Heraklion Djerba

Kos


Evropa / Europe

Redni poleti Scheduled Flights

Čarterski poleti Charter Flights

zimski in poletni vozni red

Winter and summer timetable

Moscow

Nm/km

Čas poleta/ Flight time (A320/CRJ)

Iz/from Ljubljana/Brnik

Nm/km

Čas poleta/ Flight time (A320/CRJ)

Amsterdam

606/1122

1.35 h

Antalya

966/1789

2.35 h

Barcelona

686/1270

1.46 h

Aqaba

1454/2692

3.18 h

Iz/from Ljubljana/Brnik

Belgrade

267/494

0.65 h

Cairo

1276/2363

3.25 h

Brussels

559/1035

1.26 h

Chios

738/1367

2.10 h

Copenhagen

641/1187

1.39 h

Djerba

796/1474

2.20 h

Frankfurt

420/778

1.07 h

Dubrovnik

292/541

1.05 h

Istanbul

781/1446

1.53 h

Heraklion

832/1540

2.15 h

London

757/1402

1.56 h

Hurghada

1533/2839

3.45 h

Manchester

868/1608

2.11 h

Ibiza

799/1480

2.20 h

Moscow (Sheremetyevo)

1120/2074

2.35 h

Karpathos

996/1844

2.35 h

Munich

224/415

0.41 h

Kefalonija

585/1083

1.45 h

Pristina

622/1150

1.50 h

Kerkira (Corfu)

523/968

1.35 h

Podgorica

365/676

1.25 h

Kos

873/1616

2.20 h

Sarajevo

222/411

0.41 h

Larnaca

1197/2216

3.00 h

Skopje

413/765

1.07 h

Lefkas (Preveza)

567/1050

1.40 h

Tirana

474/878

1.14 h

Lesbos (Mitiline)

746/1381

2.10 h

Vienna

153/283

0.30 h

Malta

670/1241

2.00 h

Zürich

334/619

0.56 h

Menorca

646/1196

1.55 h

Mykonos

793/1468

1.56 h

Palma de Mallorca

723/1339

2.10 h

Rhodos

947/1753

2.30 h

Samos

823/1524

2.10 h

Santorini

836/1548

2.15 h

Sharm el Sheikh

1505/2787

3.45 h

Skiatos

632/1170

1.50 h

Thassos (Kavala)

563/1043

1.45 h

Vienna - Frankfurt

Antalya

Larnaca

Iz/from PRIŠTINA

Cairo Sharm el Sheikh

Tel Aviv

Hurghada

Aqaba

Frankfurt

930/1722

2.50 h

Tel Aviv

1286/2382

2.57 h

Munich

646/1196

2.00 h

Thessaloniki

571/1057

1.24 h

Verona

650/1204

2.00 h

Zakinthos

632/1170

1.50h

Adria Airways has used the map or Europe exclusively as an illustration of its flight connections and without any political or other implications.


ADRIA AIRWAYS

Flota - Fleet Ilustracije: Miha Žnidar

Airbus A319

Število/Total 2 Dolžina/Length 33.84 m Višina/Height 11.76 m Razpon kril/Wingspan 34.10 m Hitrost/Cruising speed 900 km/h Višina poleta/Max. altitude 11 700 m Dolet/Range 6 650 km Št. potnikov/Passenger capacity 135

Airbus A320

Število/Total 1 Dolžina/Length 37.57 m Višina/Height 11.75 m Razpon kril/Wingspan 31.10 m Hitrost/Cruising speed 900 km/h Višina poleta/Max. altitude 11 700 m Dolet/Range 3 890 km Št. potnikov/Passenger capacity 180

Bombardier CRJ-900

Število/Total 4 Dolžina/Length 32.50 m Višina/Height 7.57 m Razpon kril/Wingspan 23.20 m Hitrost/Cruising speed 882 km/h Višina poleta/Max. altitude 12 496 m Dolet/Range 3 600 km Št. potnikov/Passenger capacity 86

Bombardier CRJ-200 LR

Število/Total 6 Dolžina/Length 26.77 m Višina/Height 6.22 m Razpon kril/Wingspan 21.21 m Hitrost/Cruising speed 860 km/h Višina poleta/Max. altitude 12 496 m Dolet/Range 3 285 km Št. potnikov/Passenger capacity 48/50

120


NAj se poletje zAčNe na krilih doživetij!

Split že od 69 €

London Luton že od 119 €

Istanbul že od 149 €

Število razpoložljivih sedežev je omejeno. Navedene cene veljajo za povratna potovanja začeta v Ljubljani ter vključujejo prevoznino, vse letališke in ostale pristojbine ter strošek internetne rezervacije. Informacije in rezervacije na www.adria.si, brezplačni številki 080 13 00, prodajnih mestih Adrie Airways in pri vseh pooblaščenih potovalnih agencijah.

www.adria.si


ADRIA AIRWAYS

Dobrodošli v letalu Adrie Airways Spoštovani potniki, vaše zadovoljstvo je naš uspeh. Da bi bilo potovanje z nami čim bolj prijetno, nam dovolite, da vas opozorimo na nekaj napotkov, ki so pomembni za vaše udobje in varnost pred poletom, med njim in po pristanku.

Pred poletom Ekonomski in poslovni razred Na večini Adrijinih prog izmenično letijo letala tipa Airbus A-319, A-320, Canadair Regional Jet CRJ-200LR in CRJ-900. Vozovnica za potovanje v poslovnem razredu je izdana po veljavni tarifi za poslovni razred in velja eno leto z možnostjo rezervacije, plačila in prevzema kadarkoli, omogoča pa tudi druge ugodnosti, kot so: sprememba datumov potovanja brez doplačila, večja količina brezplačne prtljage, uporaba poslovnih salonov na letališčih idr. V ekonomskem razredu potujejo potniki z vozovnicami po ekonomskih tarifah, ki so nižje in vsebujejo določene omejitve. Nakup vozovnice prek spleta Letalsko vozovnico lahko najceneje in hitro rezervirate ter kupite na Adrijini spletni strani www. adria.si. To velja le za polete na Adrijinih letih. Nakup prek interneta je zaščiten z varnostnim certifikatom. Elektronske vozovnice prejme potnik po elektronski pošti. V primeru, da potrebujete letalsko vozovnico, kjer bodo vključeni tudi drugi prevozniki, vas prosimo, da pokličete naš Klicni center za rezervacije in prodajo letalskih vozovnic na telefonskih številkah 386 1 369 10 10 in 080 13 00. Potujte z elektronsko vozovnico Na vseh rednih poletih slovenskega letalskega prevoznika je možno leteti z elektronsko vozovnico. Potnik dobi ob nakupu potniški kupon, ki velja kot račun, in načrt poti (itinerar) v ovitku Adrie Airways. Dokument lahko prejme tudi na svoj elektronski naslov in ga natisne sam. To dokumentacijo mora imeti s seboj ves čas potovanja. Pri okencu za prijavo na let se identificira s potnim listom ali osebno izkaznico. Uslužbenec izda potniku vstopni kupon za let, s katerim ta vstopi v letalo. Elektronski način dokumentiranja prodaje zagotavlja sproten vpogled v dogajanje z vozovnico, hiter prenos podatkov in manjše možnosti zlorab. Najpomembnejše pri tem pa je, da so potnikovi kuponi za let shranjeni v elektronski obliki in tako varni pred izgubo. Adria Airways tudi na mobilnih telefonih Vsem uporabnikom pametnih telefonov sporočamo, da si lahko na svojem mobilnem brskalniku nastavite našo mobilno stran m.adria.si ali pa s skenerjem kod poskenirate QR kodo. Če skenerja nimate, si ga lahko naložite na povezavi »http://www.i-nigma. com/Download-nigmaReader.html”. Uporabniki iPhona pa to najdete v iStoru. Mobilna stran prinaša: spremljanje statusa letov, informacije o voznem redu,

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informacije o naših destinacijah in informacije o vremenu na destinacijah. Poleg tega pa lahko na tej strani najdete še: vodič za potnike, turistični vodnik, naše kontakte in različne povezave do sledenja prtljage, iskanja poslovnih salonov po letališčih in preverjanje milj v klubu Miles&More. Seveda pa so tu še novice in najbolj vroče cenovne ponudbe vozovnic ter »checkmytrip«, kjer lahko preverite svoje potovanje. Web Check-in V Adrii Airways se zavedamo, da je pri potovanju pogosto dragocena vsaka minuta. Še posebej takrat, kadar nas na poti na letališče ovira gost promet. Web check-in je novost, s katero boste prihranili čas pri okencu za prijavo na let, saj se nanj lahko prijavite že od doma, z delovnega mesta oziroma povsod, kjer je vzpostavljena internetna povezava. Svoj planirani let lahko prijavite največ 24 ur in najmanj 60 minut pred poletom. Storitev web-check-in je trenutno možna le za določene lete Adrie Airways. V prihodnjih mesecih bomo obstoječim destinacijam postopoma dodajali še nove. Omejitve pri vnosu živil v EU Potnikom svetujemo, naj pred potovanjem preverijo seznam artiklov, ki jih je mogoče vnesti na območje Evropske skupnosti. Strog nadzor nad uvozom mesa, mleka, rib, lupinarjev in drugih tovrstnih izdelkov je nujen za zaščito ljudi in živali pred boleznimi, ki se lahko prenašajo s temi živili. V primeru, da carinska služba pri rutinskem pregledu osebne prtljage ugotovi prisotnost nedovoljenih živil živalskega izvora, le-te zaseže. Informativni letak “Kaj prinesti domov?” vam je na voljo na naši spletni strani. Več informacij lahko dobite na Glavnem uradu VURS-a ali na njihovi spletni strani www.vurs.gov.si v poglavju Javne objave/Uvoz živil za osebno rabo. Ročna prtljaga Zaradi vaše varnosti in udobja vas vljudno prosimo, da upoštevate mednarodna pravila, ki potniku dovoljujejo imeti pri sebi en kos ročne prtljage v velikosti 55 x 40 x 23 cm in z največjo težo osem kilogramov. Ročno prtljago namestite v za to namenjeni predal nad sedežem, težje kose pa, če je le mogoče, shranite pod sedež pred sabo. Priporočamo vam, da predal s prtljago pazljivo odpirate, saj se lahko med poletom predmeti v njem premaknejo. Na letalih CRJ oddajte večjo ročno prtljago pred letalom. Tam jo takoj po izstopu iz letala tudi prevzemite. Varnostna pravila Evropska unija je v letu 2006 sprejela nova varnostna pravila. Ta omejujejo količino tekočin, ki jo lahko vzamete s seboj na letalo. V svoji ročni prtljagi lahko prenašate samo majhne količine tekočin, ki morajo biti shranjene v posamičnih posodah z največjo prostornino 100 mililitrov. Te posode morate zapakirati v prozorno plastično vrečko, ki jo je mogoče znova ponovno zatesniti; prostornina vrečke posameznega potnika ne sme biti večja od enega litra. Med tekočine spadajo: voda in druge pijače, juhe in sirupi; kreme, losjoni in olja; parfumi; razpršilci; geli, vključno z geli za lase in tuširanje; posode z vsebinami pod pritiskom, vključno s peno za britje ter


drugimi penami in dezodoranti; kreme, vključno z zobno kremo; mešanice tekočin in trdih snovi; črtalo za veke in tuš za trepalnice ter katerekoli druge snovi s podobno vsebnostjo. Še vedno lahko tekočine prenašate v oddani prtljagi – nova pravila se nanašajo samo na ročno prtljago. V svoji ročni prtljagi lahko prenašate: • zdravila in nujno potrebna živila (vključno z otroško hrano), ki jih boste uporabljali med potovanjem; morda boste morali dokazati, da jih nujno potrebujete; • tekočine, kot so pijače in parfumi (kupite jih lahko bodisi v prodajalni na letališču v EU, ki je za točko, na kateri pokažete svoj vstopni karton, bodisi na letalu, ki ga upravlja prevoznik EU). Če ste tekočine kupili zapakirane v posebni zatesnjeni vrečki, te vrečke pred varnostnim pregledom ne odpirajte, sicer lahko varnostno osebje na kontrolni točki njeno vsebino zaseže. Če na letališču presedate na drug let, vrečke ne odpirajte pred varnostnim pregledom na transfernem letališču oziroma na zadnjem letališču, če presedate več kot enkrat. Če imate kakršne koli dvome ali vprašanja, se pred potovanjem obrnite na svojega letalskega prevoznika ali potovalno agencijo.

Med letom Napotki za varnost Z najpomembnejšimi varnostnimi napotki vas bo pred poletom seznanilo naše kabinsko osebje, poleg tega pa boste v žepu sedeža pred sabo našli navodila za postopke v sili. Ker se glede na tip letala ta navodila razlikujejo, vas prosimo, da jih pred vsakim poletom pazljivo preučite. Med vzletanjem in pristajanjem si morate pripeti varnostni pas, zaradi varnosti in udobja pa vam priporočamo, da ostanete pripeti tudi med poletom. Po pristanku počakajte na svojem sedežu, dokler se letalo popolnoma ne ustavi oziroma dokler ne ugasne znak za obvezno uporabo varnostnih pasov. Kapitan letala lahko podeli potniku, ki se v letalu neprimerno vede, tako imenovani RDEČI KARTON. Ta je namenjen vsem, ki s svojim vedenjem ovirajo delo kabinskega osebja, ne spoštujejo varnostnih pravil ali pa ogrožajo varnost in udobje potnikov. Napad na varnost zračnega prometa je kaznivo dejanje po 330. členu Kazenskega zakonika RS (KZ-1), ki za tovrstna dejanja predpisuje zaporno kazen. Uporaba elektronskih naprav V letalu ni dovoljeno uporabljati prenosnih telefonov (biti morajo popolnoma izključeni!), radijskih in televizijskih sprejemnikov, videoiger z daljinskim upravljanjem, računalniških tiskalnikov in drugih naprav, ki bi lahko z elektromagnetnimi valovi motile delovanje občutljivih letalskih instrumentov. Druge elektronske naprave, denimo prenosne računalnike, CD in DVD predvajalnike ter žepne kalkulatorje, je dovoljeno uporabljati le med poletom (če ne povzročajo motenj), med vzletanjem in pristajanjem pa ne. Prosimo vas, da se pred uporabo elektronskih naprav posvetujete s kabinskim osebjem in dosledno upoštevate njihove napotke. Nevarni predmeti Po mednarodnih varnostnih predpisih potnikom v letalu ni dovoljeno imeti (ne pri sebi ne v prtljagi) orožja in drugih nevarnih predmetov, kot so: vnetljive tekočine, pločevinke s stisnjenim ali utekočinjenim plinom, lahko vnetljive snovi, vžigalice, ki niso označene kot varne, in podobno. Počutje in zdravje Vašemu dobremu počutju sta namenjena ventil za uravnavanje dotoka zraka in lučka za branje, ki sta nameščena nad sedežem. Tam je tudi pozivni gumb, s katerim lahko po potrebi pokličete članico oziroma člana kabinskega osebja.

V letalu je na voljo priročna lekarna, opremljena s sredstvi za nudenje prve pomoči. Med poletom lahko včasih v ušesih občutite neprijeten pritisk, do česar prihaja zaradi sprememb višine in zračnega pritiska v letalu; težavo boste zlahka odpravili s poudarjenim požiranjem sline ali z nakazanim zehanjem. Da bi se izognili težavam z ožiljem, ko gre za dolg polet, vam svetujemo, da se večkrat sprehodite po potniški kabini, med sedenjem pa delate vaje za raztezanje celega telesa. Postrežba med letom Tudi na letalu bodo člani našega prijaznega osebja lepo poskrbeli za vas. Odvisno od trajanja leta, destinacije in razreda v letalu vam bodo na voljo okusni obroki, postrežba pijače, časopisi in naš odlični In-Flight Magazine, na letih izven EU pa boste lahko nakupovali tudi v našem »zračnem« Adria Shopu. Hrana in pijača sta na rednih letih Adrie Airways že vključeni v voznino, na čarterskih poletih pa potnikom zaračunavamo alkoholne pijače po naslednjem ceniku: • • • • •

pivo 0,33 l vino 0,2 l penina 0,25 l Chivas Regal 0,05 l ostale miniature

2,50 € 3,00 € 3,50 € 2,10 € 1,80 €

V kolikor pa bi imeli zaradi zdravstvenih, verskih ali ideoloških pogledov kakršnekoli zadržke do določene hrane, vam v Adrii Airways ponujamo pester izbor tako imenovanih posebnih obrokov. Izbor si lahko ogledate na naši spletni strani v rubriki Vodič za potnike; pomembno pa je, da svoje želje zaupate svetovalcu že ob rezervaciji oziroma nakupu vozovnice. Alkohol v letalu V letalu ni dovoljeno uživanje alkoholnih pijač, ki jih prinesete s sabo. Kabinsko osebje ne sme streči alkoholnih pijač osebam, ki kažejo znake vinjenosti, in osebam, mlajšim od 18 let. Dobronamerno vas opozarjamo, da alkohol zaradi nekoliko nižjega zračnega pritiska med poletom deluje na telo hitreje in bolj intenzivno kot na tleh.

po pristanku Zamujena, izgubljena ali poškodovana prtljaga Če bi med vašim potovanjem prišlo do nepravilnega ravnanja z vašo registrirano prtljago (velja tudi za prtljago, oddano pred letalom), zadevo takoj po prihodu prijavite na letališču pri ustrezni službi (Izgubljeno/ Najdeno, Lost&Found, Arrival Service). Telefonska številka pa je + 386 (0) 25 94 339. Center za stike s potniki V Adrijinem Centru za stike s potniki lahko dobite vse informacije o naši ponudbi in novostih pa tudi pomoč ali nasvet. Sem lahko potniki posredujete pritožbo ali odškodninski zahtevek, veseli pa bomo tudi pohvale. Na naš center se lahko obrnete osebno, pisno, po elektronski pošti prc@adria.si ali po telefonu na brezplačno številko 080 13 03 za klice znotraj Slovenije oziroma kot doslej na telefonsko številko +386 (0)1 369 11 33. Najem avtomobila in hoteli Na Adrijini spletni strani smo pred kratkim dodali zavihek Rent-a-car in Hoteli, ki vam omogočata najugodnejši najem vozila in rezervacijo hotelskih namestitev. Zelo enostavno: obiščite www.adria.si in poiščite željeni zavihek. Na voljo je nekaj deset tisoč hotelskih objektov na vseh celinah, od tistih z eno zvezdico do prestižnih mednarodnih verig. Pri Budgetu lahko najamete vozilo na več kot 3.400 lokacijah v 128 državah po vsem svetu.

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Adria Airways Welcomes You Aboard Dear passengers, your satisfaction is our success. In order to ensure that your Adria flight is as pleasant as possible, allow us to draw your attention to certain points that are important for your comfort and safety before take-off, during the flight and after landinG.

Before take-off Economy and business class The majority of Adria routes are served by the following aircraft: Airbus A319 and A320, Bombardier CRJ-200 LR and CRJ-900. A business-class ticket is issued according to the current business-class tariff and is valid for one year. The ticket can be booked, paid for and picked up at any time and includes other advantages such as changing the date of travel without additional charge, a larger free baggage allowance, the use of business lounges at airports, etc. Economy class is for passengers with economy-class tickets, which are cheaper and carry certain restrictions. Online ticketing The cheapest and quickest way to book a flight and buy a ticket is to visit Adria’s website at www.adria.si. This only applies to flights operated by Adria. Online purchases are protected by a security certificate. Passengers receive their electronic tickets via e-mail. If you require a ticket that will also include other carriers, please contact our Call Centre for Reservations and Ticket Sales on: 386 1 369 10 10 or 080 13 00. Travel with an electronic ticket You can travel with an electronic ticket on all Adria Airways scheduled flights. On purchasing a ticket, passengers receive a passenger coupon and itinerary in an Adria Airways cover. You can also receive the document via e-mail and print it yourself. You must keep this document with you throughout the journey. At the check-in, present your passport or identity card. The check-in personnel will issue you with your boarding pass. Electronic documentation of the ticket sale means that the ticket status can be verified at any time. It also facilitates rapid transfer of data and reduces the chance of abuse. Most importantly, there is no danger of losing the boarding pass, since it is stored in electronic form. Adria Airways on mobile phones To all smartphone users – we would like to inform you that you can now set our mobile site, m.adria.si, on your mobile browser or scan your QR code with a barcode scanner. If you do not have a barcode scanner, you can download one by clicking the following link http://www.i-nigma.com/Downloadi-nigmaReader.html. iPhone users can find this in the iStore. The mobile site provides information on the following: flight status, timetables, destinations and weather conditions. In addition, you will also find the following: travellers guide, tourist guide, our contact details and various links to: baggage tracking, searches by airport business lounge, and frequent flyer miles in the Miles & More Club.

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Of course, you can also find news, the hottest ticket price bids and “checkmytrip” where you can check information on your trip. Web Check-in At Adria we are aware that every minute is precious when you are travelling. Especially when heavy traffic holds you up on the way to the airport. The web check-in service is a new service that lets you save time at the check-in desk: because you can check in from home or office – or anywhere with an Internet connection. You can check in as early as 24 hours and up to 60 minutes before your scheduled departure time. Web check-in is currently only available on selected Adria flights. In the coming months new destinations will gradually be added. Restrictions on bringing food into the EU We advise passengers to check the list of articles that may be brought into the EU before travelling. Strict controls of the import of meat, milk, fish, shellfish and products derived from them is necessary to protect people and animals from the diseases that they can transmit. If customs officials discover prohibited foodstuffs of animal origin during routine luggage checks, they will be confiscated. The informative leaflet “What to bring home” is available on our website. More information is available from the Veterinary Administration of the Republic of Slovenia or on its website http://www.vurs.gov.si/ under the section Public Announcements/Import of Foodstuffs for Personal Use. Carry-on baggage For your safety and comfort, we ask you to observe international rules that permit passengers to have one piece of carry-on baggage of a maximum size of 55 x 40 x 23 cm and a maximum weight of 8 kg. Carry-on baggage should be placed in the overhead bins. Heavier items may be stored under the seat in front of you if possible. We recommend that you take care when opening the overhead bins as items may have moved during the flight and may fall out. If your flight is on a CRJ aircraft, larger items of carry-on baggage must be surrendered on boarding. They will be returned to you when you leave the aircraft. EU airport security rules In 2006 the European Union adopted new security rules that restrict the amount of liquids that passengers can take aboard aircraft. You are only allowed to take small quantities of liquids in your hand luggage. These liquids must be in individual containers with a maximum capacity of 100 millilitres each. These containers must be packed in one transparent re-sealable plastic bag of not more than one litre capacity per passenger. Liquids include: water and other drinks, soups, syrups; creams, lotions and oils; perfumes; sprays; gels, including hair and shower gels; contents of pressurised containers, including shaving foam, other foams and deodorants; pastes, including toothpaste; liquidsolid mixtures; mascara; any other item of similar consistency. You can still: • pack liquids in bags that you check in – the new rules only affect hand luggage;


• carry in your hand luggage medicines and dietary requirements, including baby foods, for use during the trip. You may be asked for proof that they are needed; • buy liquids such as drinks and perfumes in an EU airport shop when located beyond the point where you show your boarding pass or on board an aircraft operated by an EU airline. If they are sold in a special sealed bag, do not open it before you are screened – otherwise the contents may be confiscated at the checkpoint. (If you transfer at an EU airport, do not open the bag before screening at your airport of transfer, or at the last one if you transfer more than once). • If you have any doubts, please ask your airline or travel agent in advance of travel.

During the flight Safety information Our cabin crew will give you important safety information before take-off. You will find instructions for emergency procedures in the pocket of the seat in front of you. Since these procedures differ depending on the type of aircraft, we ask you to read the instructions carefully before every flight. During take-off and landing you must fasten your seatbelt. For your own safety and comfort we also recommend that you leave it fastened during the flight. After landing, wait in your seat until the aircraft comes to a complete stop or until the seatbelt sign is switched off. The captain can issue a passenger who acts inappropriately on the aircraft with what is called a RED CARD. The red card is intended for anyone whose behaviour obstructs the work of the cabin crew, who does not observ safety instructions or who threatens the safety and comfort of passengers. Unacceptable behaviour on board an aircraft is a violation of the law. Placing air traffic in jeopardy is a criminal offence in accordance with Article 330 of the Criminal Code of the Republic of Slovenia (KZ-1), carrying with it the penalty of imprisonment. Use of electronic devices Use of the following devices is not permitted aboard the aircraft: mobile phones (they must be switched off!), radios and televisions, video games with remote control, computer printers and other devices emitting electromagnetic waves which could interfere with sensitive aircraft systems. Other electronic devices such as portable computers, CD and DVD players and pocket calculators may only be used during the flight (if they do not cause a disturbance). They may not be used during take-off and landing. Please check with the cabin crew before using electronic devices and be sure to follow their instructions. Hazardous items Under international safety regulations air passengers may not transport, either on their person or in their luggage, weapons and other hazardous items such as flammable liquids, compressed or liquefied gas cylinders, highly inflammable materials, matches (except safety matches), and so on. Comfort and health For your comfort, an adjustable air vent and a reading light are located above your seat. There is also a button which you can use to call a member of the cabin crew if necessary. The aircraft is equipped with a first aid kit. During the flight you may feel an uncomfortable pressure in your ears. This is caused by changes in altitudeand the air pressure in the aircraft; swallowing or yawning will help relieve the discomfort.

In order to avoid vein problems associated with long flights, we advise you to take frequent walks up and down the cabin and to do stretching exercises for the whole body while seated. Service during the flight Our friendly staff will also serve you while on board the aircraft. Depending on the length of the flight, the destination and the class of travel, you will be offered tasty meals, drink service, newspapers and our outstanding InFlight magazine, and on longer flights you can also make purchases in our “airborne” Adria Shop. Meals and drinks are included in the ticket price on scheduled flights, while on charter flights passengers have to pay for alcoholic beverages: • • • • •

Beer 0,33l Wine 0,2l Sparkling Wine 0,25l Chivas Regal 0,05l Other miniature liquers

2,50 eur 3,00 eur 3,50 eur 2,10 eur 1,80 eur

With a thought of each passanger we carefully prepaired a huge sellection of the so-called special meals which you could order. Reason being either medical or religious, a matter or your life style or personal belief – there is something for each one of you. A variety of special meals is to be found on our website, just follow the Passanger Guide tab. However, it is of significant importance to state you wish as soon as you book or purchase your ticket. Alcohol on board Consuming alcoholic beverages that you have brought on board the aircraft yourself is not permitted. The cabin crew is not allowed to serve alcohol to passengers who show signs of intoxication or to passengers under 18 years old. Please bear in mind that because of the lower air pressure during flight, alcohol has a faster and stronger effect than on the ground.

After landing Delayed, lost and damaged baggage If problems occur with your checked baggage during your journey (also applies to luggage surrendered on boarding), contact the appropriate service as soon as you arrive at the airport (Lost & Found, Arrival Service, etc.) Passenger Relations Centre Adria’s Passenger Relations Centre provides you with news and information about our services and can also offer assistance and advice. Passengers can submit complaints or compensation claims, and praise is always welcome. You can contact the centre in person, in writing, by e-mail to prc@adria.si, and by phoning the free telephone number 080 13 03 if calling from Slovenia, +386 1 369 11 33 if calling from outside Slovenia. Car hire and hotels We have recently added two tabs to Adria’s website that enables you to book a hire car or hotel accomodation throughout the world at favourable rates. Simply visit www.adria.si, and click on the desired tab. Choose from among tens of thousands of hotels on every continent, ranging from one-star hotels to prestigious international hotel chains. Budget offers Adria Airways customers the best car hire deals in more than 3,400 destinations in 128 countries!

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Ostale storitve Adrie Airways - Other services Čarterski prevozi Adria Airways ponuja potnikom, agencijam, podjetjem in drugim letalskim prevoznikom poleg svojih rednih linij tudi čarterske polete iz Ljubljane in vseh drugih (predvsem evropskih) letališč. Z vstopom v Evropsko unijo ponujamo agencijam, podjetjem in drugim letalskim prevoznikom tudi polete z vseh drugih evropskih letališč. Odlikujejo nas zlasti prilagodljivost, ažurnost, visoka kakovost in točnost poletov. E-pošta: charter@adria.si Charters In addition to its scheduled services, Adria Airways offers charter flights from Ljubljana and other (mainly European) airports to passengers, agencies, companies and other carriers. Now that Slovenia is part of the European Union, we can also offer flights from all other European airports to agencies, companies and other carriers. Adria charters offer flexibility, up-to-the-minute services, high quality and punctuality. E-mail: charter@adria.si

Prevoz tovora Blagovna služba Adrie Airways odpremi vse pošiljke hitro in kakovostno do vseh letališč po svetu. V sodelovanju z drugimi prevozniki in s pomočjo računalniško podprtega rezervacijskega sistema spremljamo vsako pošiljko od sprejema do predaje naslovniku. Naša blagovna služba in prodajna zastopništva v tujini vam bodo z veseljem pomagala odpremiti oz. dostaviti blago po najhitrejši in cenovno najugodnejši poti. ADRIA CARGO, Letališče Ljubljana – Prevoz tovora Telefon: + 386 (04) 259 43 40, Faks + 386 (04) 202 30 30 E-pošta: cargo@adria.si

ADRIA CARGO, Ljubljana Jože Pučnik Airport – Cargo Transport, Telephone: + 386 (04) 259 43 40, Fax: + 386 (04) 202 30 30, E-mail: jp.cargo@adria.si

Official events carrier As a modern company we understand the needs of modern business, which increasingly takes place in the global arena. For this reason we are ideally positioned to work with organisers of conferences, congresses, fairs and other international events by becoming their official exclusive carrier and offering discounted fares and other advantages to participants and organisers. With a simple, efficient approach adapted to the needs of our customers, we make sure that the event runs smoothly, with participants arriving at their destination on time, safely and reliably. As a Star Alliance member we offer the Conventions Plus service for major international conferences, which effectively makes all Star Alliance members the official carrier for the event. For more information write to us at: events@adria.si.

Avio Taxi – panoramski izleti Z letalom Piper Turbo Arrow PA-28R-201T s tremi sedeži za potnike lahko poletite do vseh večjih mest s špotnimi letališči v Sloveniji in do bližnjih letališč sosednjih držav. Za lete se lahko naročite po telefonu: 04 23 63 460 (Adria Airways Aviotaxi) ali 041 636 420 (tel. št. pilota).

Aviotaxi – Panoramic flights Our Piper Turbo Arrow PA-28R-201T, with its three passenger seats, can fly you to all major towns with sports airfields in Slovenia and to nearby airportsin neighbouring countries. To book flights, call us on: 04 23 63460 (Adria Airways Aviotaxi) or 041 636 420 (pilot).

Cargo The Adria Airways cargo service provides fast, high-quality goods transport to every airport in the world. In conjunction with other carriers, and with the help of a computerised booking system, we monitor every item from reception to delivery. Our goods service and sales offices abroad will be happy to help you dispatch or deliver goods by the fastest and most competitively priced route.

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Uradni prevoznik dogodkov Kot sodobna družba razumemo potrebe poslovnega vsakdanjika, ki se vse pogosteje odvija v globalnem prostoru. Zato stopamo naproti tistim, ki organizirajo konference, kongrese, sejme ali druge mednarodne dogodke tako, da postanemo njihov uradni ekskluzivni prevoznik, udeležencem ter organizatorju pa nudimo posebne ugodnosti. Preprosto, učinkovito in prilagojeno potrebam svojih uporabnikov poskrbimo za to, da poteka dogodek uspešno, udeleženci pa prispejo na cilj pravočasno,varno in zanesljivo. Kot članica združenja Star Alliance Iahko za večje mednarodne kongrese zagotovimo produkt “Conventions PlusTM”, v sklopu katerega postane več članov združenja uradni prevoznik dogodka. Za vse nadaljnje informacije smo dosegljivi po elektronski pošti: events@adria.si


Spoznajte letenje v virtualnem svetu z našimi odličnimi inštruktorji V simulatorju letenja – v 30 minutah za samo 39 EUR (ddv je vključen v ceno) – boste spoznali osnove letenja. Za rezervacijo termina in dodatne informacije o obisku simulatorja pošljite e-mail na naslov: ales.bobnar@adria.si; GSM: +386 (0) 41 604 116. Letenje je možno po plačilu vnaprej in predhodni rezervaciji termina. Več o ponudbi preberite na spletni strani www.adrialetalskasola.si.

Learn to fly in a virtual world with our excellent instructors. In our flight simulator you can learn the basics of flying in just 30 minutes for a mere 39 euros (VAT included). To book a session and for more information about a visit to the simulator, e-mail us at the following address: ales.bobnar@adria.si; GSM: +386 (0)41 604116. Booking essential. Payment in advance. For more information visit www.adrialetalskasola.si.

Klubi zvestobe - Loyalty Clubs Partnerska kartica Diners Club-Adria

Diners Club Adria Partner Card

Potniki s stalnim prebivališčem v Republiki Sloveniji se lahko odločite za skupno plačilno kartico Diners Cluba in Adrie Airways. Z uporabo partnerske plačilne kartice Diners Club-Adria lahko zbirate milje in koristite nagradne vozovnice in druge ugodnosti v programu Miles & More. Vsak porabljen evro vam bo prinesel 1 miljo. Dogovor, sklenjen med Adrio in klubom Miles & More, prinaša imetnikom partnerske kartice pomembno dodatno ugodnost: milje, zbrane z nakupi s plačilno kartico Diners Club-Adria, ne zapadejo, če ste vsaj tri mesece član. Kartica pa vam odpira vrata in nudi brezplačne storitve tudi v več kot 130 letaliških salonih po vsem svetu, kjer boste lahko v miru počakali na odhod svojega letala, brezplačno prelistali časopis, se osvežili z napitki, telefonirali ali poslali faks. Informacije: telefon 080 13 45, www.dinersclub.si, info@dinersclub.si

Passengers with permanent residence in Slovenia can obtain the joint Diners Club and Adria Airways charge card. By using the Diners Club – Adria Airways charge card, you can collect miles and enjoy bonus tickets and other privileges in the Miles & More programme. Every euro spent will give you one mile. The agreement between Adria and Miles & More brings partner card holders an important additional benefit: miles collected through purchases using the Diners Club- Adria payment card will not lapse if you have been a member for at least three months, you use the card for at least one purchase each month and you settle your account balance on time. At the same time, the card opens the door to free services in more than 130 airport lounges around the world, where you can await your departure in tranquillity, browse through newspapers, enjoy a refreshing drink, make phone calls or send faxes. Information: Telephone: 080 13 45, www.dinersclub.si, info@dinersclub.si

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ADRIA AIRWAYS

Star Alliance Star Alliance PARTNERSTVO

Star Alliance Partnership

Adria Airways je letalski prevoznik z več kot 50-letnimi izkušnjami v čarterskem in rednem prometu. Uspešno sodeluje v evropskih integracijskih tokovih in se partnersko povezuje z drugimi letalskimi prevozniki. Decembra 2004 se je Adria kot regionalna članica pridružila največjemu globalnemu združenju letalskih prevoznikov Star Allianceu, z januarjem 2010 pa je napredovala v polnopravno članico združenja.

Adria Airways has more than 50 years of experience in operating both charter and scheduled flights. We are successfully participating in the process of European integration and have established partnership arrangements with other air carriers. In December 2004 Adria joined the Star Alliance, the world’s largest airline alliance, as a regional member and later became a full member in January 2010.

Potnikom zagotavljamo vse prednosti, ki jih prinaša izboljšan dostop do svetovnega omrežja prevoznikov, združenih v Star Allianceu. V povezavi s partnerji vam omogočamo dostop do svetovne mreže poletov 25 letalskih prevoznikov, ki z več kot 20.500 leti dnevno povezujejo 1.290 destinacij v 190 državah.

Our customers now benefit from improved access to the world-wide Star Alliance network. In connection with our partners, we offer access to a global network of flights on 25 airlines, which offer more than 20,500 flights daily serving 1,290 destinations in 190 countries.

Poleg tega so vam na voljo ugodnosti, ki jih ponujajo prevozniki, člani Star Alliancea, kot so: prijava na let do končne destinacije, priznavanje statusa, vstop v letališke salone ter zbiranje in uveljavljanje točk ali milj v okviru programov za pogoste potnike. Za številne destinacije po svetu so vam na voljo potovanja po ugodnejših cenah in posebna ponudba Star Alliancea Round the World – potovanje okoli sveta. Za več informacij smo vam na voljo na naših prodajnih mestih.

Letos praznujemo 15. obletnico mreže Star Alliance. Od skromnih začetkov leta 1997, ko je mrežo sestavljalo le pet letalskih prevoznikov, smo zrasli v združenje, ki svoje storitve ponuja s pomočjo več letalskih družb članic kot katerakoli druga mreža na svetu. Na to smo zelo ponosni. Hkrati s številom pridruženih letalskih prevoznikov je raslo tudi število potnikov, ki redno letijo z nami. Danes prevažamo 600 milijonov potnikov, ki z našo pomočjo potujejo med več kot 1.290 destinacijami in z več uveljavljenimi letalskimi prevozniki kot pri katerikoli drugi mreži.

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Moreover, our passengers enjoy customer benefits offered by Star Alliance member carriers, such as through check-in, status recognition, lounge access, frequent-flyer accrual and redemption. Reduced-price flights are available for numerous destinations throughout the world, along with the Star Alliance Round-the-World special offer. We will be glad to provide details at any Adria sales outlet.

This year, we celebrate the Star Alliance network’s 15th Anniversary. And having grown from just five airlines in 1997, we couldn’t be more proud to now offer our services across more member airlines than any other network in the world. As our member airlines have expanded, so has the number of frequent flyers that choose to fly with us. We now serve 600 million passengers, helping you travel more seamlessly between over 1,290 destinations and across more recognised airlines than any other network.

Združenje Star Alliance ponuja tudi najugodnejše prednosti za pogoste potnike – dostopa do salonov in prednostne obravnave boste deležni pri vseh letalskih družbah članicah. Poleg tega lahko zdaj še lažje zaslužite in porabite milje z eno samo kartico.

The Star Alliance network offers the very best frequent flyer benefits so you can count on lounge access and priority treatment across all our member airlines. Plus, it’s never been easier to earn and burn miles on just one card.

Zato se v imenu vseh pridruženih letalskih prevoznikov zahvaljujemo pogostim potnikom po vsem svetu.

So on behalf of all our member airlines, to the frequent travellers around the world, we’d like to say thank you.

To si zaslužite.

You’ve earned it.

Mark Schwab generalni direktor Star Alliance Services GmbH.

Mark Schwab CEO Star Alliance Services GmbH.

Od 14. maja naprej imate možnost, da na staralliance.com zadenete obisk enega od 27 festivalov po vsem svetu.

From 14th May, you can win the chance to celebrate at one of 27 global festivals at staralliance.com


MILES & MORE Dobrodošli v Miles & More Razlog več, da poletite z Adrio Airways

Registration

Adria Airways nudi svojim pogostim potnikom program Miles & More in jim s tem omogoča pestrost zbiranja in uporabljanja milj v celotni mreži poletov članic zveze Star Alliance. Sem spadajo tudi vse redne proge Adrie Airways.

You can collect miles within the entire Star Alliance network. You can also collect additional miles through hotel stays, car rental, telephone calls, purchases at selected shops and using your credit cards. The complete list of all Miles & More partners can be found on www.miles-and-more.com in »Earn miles« section.

Prijava Prijavite se lahko s prijavnico, ki jo dobite na vseh prodajnih mestih in v letalih Adrie Airways, ali pa to storite na naslovu www.adria.si na naših spletnih straneh.

Zbiranje milj Milje lahko zbirate na celotni mreži poletov članic zveze Star Alliance. Dodatne milje lahko zbirate z bivanjem v hotelih, najemom vozil, telefoniranjem, nakupi v določenih trgovinah in z uporabo kreditnih kartic. Podroben seznam vseh partnerjev, ki vas nagrajujejo v okviru Miles & More programa najdete na www.miles-and-more.com v rubriki »Earn miles«. Zbrane milje so veljavne tri leta. Člani Miles & More v Sloveniji lahko pridobijo nagradne milje tudi s partnersko plačilno kartico Diners Club-Adria. Vsak nakup v vrednosti 1 EUR vam prinese eno miljo. Čas veljavnosti zbranih milj je neomejen, če plačilno kartico uporabljate najmanj 3 mesece, opravite z njo vsak mesec vsaj en nakup in račune poravnate v roku.

Koriščenje milj Zbrane milje lahko porabite za številne nagrade: nagradne vozovnice na progah članic Star Alliancea, potovanje v višjem razredu, počitniška potovanja, nakup različnih artiklov.

You can join the programme by filling in the registration form available at all sales offices and on board Adria Airways aircraft, or by registering online at our website, www.adria.si.

Earning miles

Miles & More members in Slovenia can also receive award miles with the partner Diners Club-Adria credit card. Every euro charged earns you 1 mile. Miles collected through purchases using the Diners Club-Adria payment card will not lapse if you have been a member for at least three months, you use the card for at least one purchase each month and you settle your account balance on time.

Spending miles You can use the miles you have accumulated for various benefits: award tickets on Star Alliance member routes, upgrades to business class, holiday travel and various purchases.

Membership cards You become a member as soon as you join. Accumulating the required number of status miles in a calendar year leads to higher levels of membership: silver member or Frequent Traveller, gold member or Senator and HON Circle Member. A higher level of membership offers you special benefits, such as priority on waiting lists, excess baggage allowance, airport lounge access and so on. Miles are valid for three years. Always have your membership card on hand, because you’ll need it to register miles, claim benefits and request awards. General Terms and Conditions of the Miles & More programme can be found on www.miles-and-more.com.

Članske kartice

Welcome aboard Adria Airways, a Star Alliance member!

Z včlanitvijo postanete član programa in imetnik osnovne kartice. Doseženo število zahtevanih statusnih milj, zbranih v koledarskem letu, zagotavlja višje nivoje članstva, kot so: srebrni član ali Frequent Traveller, zlati član ali Senator in HON Circle Member. Višji nivo članstva vam prinese posebne ugodnosti. Te so prednost na čakalnih listah, prevoz večje količine prtljage, vstop v oslovne salone idr. Člansko kartico imejte vedno pri roki, potrebujete jo za beleženje milj, uveljavljanje ugodnosti in naročanje nagrad. Splošna pravila in pogoji programa Miles & More so objavljeni na www.miles-and-more.com.

For information on miles, latest news about programme and to order award tickets or other benefits, call the Miles & More call centre at +386 40 747 440. You’ll be asked for your membership number and PIN code. We’ll be happy to take your calls in Slovene from 8 am to 6 pm. Service is also available in English and German outside these hours.

Dobrodošli na poletih Adrie Airways, članice združenja Star Alliance! V klicnem centru Miles & More na tel. št. (0)40 747 440 smo vam na voljo za posredovanje informacije o zbranih miljah, o novostih v klubu in za naročila nagradnih vozovnic ter drugih nagrad. Navesti morate člansko številko in PIN kodo. V delovnem času od 8. do 18. ure vam bodo informacije na voljo v slovenskem jeziku, kasneje v angleškem ali nemškem.

wELCOME TO Miles & More One more reason for flying Adria Airways Adria Airways offers its frequent flyers the chance to join the Miles & More programme, which makes available a variety of ways to collect and use miles on the entire flight network of Star Alliance members. All Adria Airways scheduled services are included in this network.

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ADRIA AIRWAYS

Prodaja vozovnic in rezervacije - Ticket offices and booking Adria Airways Zgornji Brnik 130h 4210 Brnik - Aerodrom

Klicni center: tel: +386 (0)1 36 91 010, 080 13 00, FAX: +386 (0)4 25 94 573 E-mail: booking@adria.si

Poslovalnice / Sales offices: Letališče Jožeta Pučnika LJUBLJANA LJUBLJANA Jože Pučnik Airport Adria Airways Sales Office Tel.: +386 (0)4 25 94 245 Fax: +386 (0)4 23 63 461 E-mail: adr.prodaja@adria.si

AMSTERDAM Adria Airways, Netherlands Tel.: +31 20 625 11 22 Fax: +32 2 753 23 37 Airport Ticketing Desk Amsterdam Schiphol Airport Aviapartner Terminal 1 Tel.: +31 20 79 52 600 Fax: +31 20 79 52 601 E-mail: adr.amsairport@adria.si

BARCELONA Adria Airways, General Sales Agent Kompas Spain C/ Paris, 162-164 Entlo 2a 08036 Barcelona Tel.: + 34 93 246 67 77 Fax: +34 93 245 41 88 E-mail: adr.barcelona@adria.si

BELGRADE Adria Airways General Sales Agent OKI AIR INTERNATIONAL Airport “Nikola Tesla” 11180 Belgrade 59 Tel/Fax: +381 11 2286457, 2286458, 2097457 E-mail: okiairbeg@oki.me, adr.belgrade@adria.si

BRUSSELS Adria Airways Brussels Airport – Box 4 1930 Zaventem Tel.: +32 (0)2 75 32 336 Fax: +32 (0)2 75 32 337 E-mail: adr.brussels@adria.si Adria Airways Ticket Desk Flightcare row 5 Airport Zaventem / Brussels Tel.: +32 (0)2 75 32 335

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COPENHAGEN

LONDON LUTON

PRISTINA

TIRANA

Adria Airways Representative and Information A CVITAN AB Tings Gatan 2 256 56 Helsingborg, SWEDEN Tel.: +46 (0)42 28 47 78 Fax: +46 (0)42 14 47 78 Mobil: +46 708 28 47 78 E-mail: adr.copenhagen@adria.si a.cvitan@adria-airways.se vozovnice: info@adria-airways.dk

Serviceair Ticketing Office Departure Area Tel.: + 44 (0)1582 753377 int.356 Fax.: +44 (0)1582 773388

Adria representative office – town office Pal Palucij 3, 38000 Pristina Tel.: +381 (0)38 54 34 11 Tel. & Fax: +381 (0)38 54 32 85 E-mail: adr.pristina@adria.si Ticket issue at the airport Tel.: +381 (0) 38 548 437 Fax: +381 (0) 38 548 437 Mobile: +377 44 501 241

Adria Airways Albania Europian Trade Center Street Bajram Curi 19 Town Office Tel.: +355 4 227 4666 Tel. & Fax: +355 4 227 2666 Mobil Off.: +355 6 94076614 Airport Tel. & Fax: +355 4 238 1911 Mobil in Rinas Apt.: +355 6 94076611 E-mail: adr.tirana@adria.si

Adria Airways Airport Ticket Desk Copenhagen Airport Terminal 2, Floor 2, Office 230 2770 Kastrup, Denmark Tel. & Fax: +45 (0)32 51 59 59 Mobil: +46 708 28 47 78 E-mail: adr.copenhagen@adria.si

FRANKFURT Adria Airways Frankfurt Airport Terminal 1, Building 201 Room 201. 4043/4044 P.O.Box 039, 60549 Frankfurt am Main Tel.: +49 (0)69 269 56 720, 269 56 721 Fax: +49 (0)69 269 56 730 E-mail: adr.frankfurt@adria.si Adria Airways Airport Ticket Desk Frankfurt Airport, Terminal 1, Hall B Sales Desk 307 P.O.Box 039, 60549 Frankfurt am Main Tel. +49 (0)69 269 56 722

ISTANBUL Adria Airways AIRPORT OFFICE ACM Atatürk International Airport, Departure Level, IDL 38129 Yesilkoy – Istanbul / TURKEY Tel: +90 212 465 55 15 Fax: +90 212 465 55 16 Mob: +90 0530 938 43 20 E-mail: adr.istanbul@adria.si

MOSCOW Adria Airways Derbenevskaja 4 115 114 Moscow Tel.: +7 495 727 08 85, 727 08 87 Fax: +7 495 727 08 88 E-mail: adr.moscow@adria.si Adria Airways Sheremetyevo Airport Ticket office Bohemia 2nd floor of terminal F Ticketing +7 903 5613645, e-mail: apt-svo@mail.ru, fax +7 495 578 8197 Supervisor on duty +7 916 267 2395, e-mail: svokkjp@adria.si

MUNICH Prosimo, obrnite se na predstavništvo v Frankfurtu. Please contact our office in Frankfurt.

PODGORICA Adria Airways, General Sales Agent Oki Air Montenegro Ivana Vujoševića 46 81000 Podgorica Tel. & Fax: +382 20 201 201, 201 202, 241 154 Mobil: +382 67 24 11 54 E-mail: adr.podgorica@adria.si, okiair@oki.me Adria Airways Ticket Office Podgorica Airport OKI AIR Montenegro Tel. & Fax: +382 20 653074 Mobil: +382 67 24 11 54 E-mail: adr.podgorica@adria.si

SARAJEVO Adria Airways Representative and Information Ferhadija 23 71000 Sarajevo Tel.: +387 (0)33 23 21 25, 23 21 26 Fax: +387 (0)33 23 36 92 E-mail: adr.sarajevo@adria.si

VERONA

Adria Airways Airport Ticket Desk Sarajevo International Airport Tel. & Fax: +387 33 464 331

VIENNA

TEL AVIV

ZÜRICH

Adria Airways MIRUS SERVICES Ltd EL AL BUILDING 32 Ben Yehuda Street 8th Floor, Room 822 Tel Aviv 63432 Tel.: +972 (0)3 52 23 161 Fax: +972 (0)3 52 40 895

Adria Airways Loewenstrasse 54/II. 8001 Zürich Tel.: +41 (0)44 212 63 93 Fax: +41 (0)44 212 52 66 E-mail: adr.zurich@adria.si

AIRPORT VALERIO CATULLO VERONA Airport Ticketing Office Departure Area Tel.: +390 45 8619 006 Fax.: +390 45 8095 711 e-mail: ticket@aeroportoverona.it

Fligt Directors Lufttransportvermittlung Ges.m.b.H A-1300 Vienna Airport SKOPJE Tel.: +43 (1) 879 8705 Adria Airways Fax: +43 (1) 876 045311 General Sales: Agent AAM dooel E-mail: pia.karlovic@adria.si Ulica Dame Gruev, Gradski Zid, blok 4/8 p.karlovic@flightdirectors.at 1000 Skopje ZAGREB Tel.: +389 (0)2 31 17 009, 32 29 975 Adria Airways Fax: +389 (0)2 31 65 531 Praška 9 E-mail: adr.skopje@adria.si 10000 Zagreb Tel.: +385 (0)1 48 10 011, 48 10 016 Adria Airways Airport Ticket Office Fax: +385 (0)1 48 10 008 Skopje Airport E-mail: adr.zagreb@adria.si Tel. +389 (0)2 25 50 133

Adria Airways Ticket Desk Ben Gurion Airport Laufer Aviation Ltd. Tel.: +972 (0)3 97 74 300 Fax: +972 (0)3 97 12 022

Adria Airways Airport Ticket Office Zürich Airport Terminal B-2-521 Tel.: +41 (0)43 81 64 437


Sara Isaković

Telekom Slovenije, d. d., 1546 Ljubljana

olimpijska podprvakinja

Z vsem srcem! www.telekom.si


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Adria Airways In-Flight Magazine June, July 2012