A Magazine, Issue 67

from Aïshti

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no. 67 aug/sep 2013 LL10,000

Steal my thunder An outpouring of style and sensuality

Fashion A peek at the fall collections Celebrities Taner Ceylan, Jennifer Flay, Michael Yeung, Omar Christidis and Carlo Sampietro Art Metropolitan Art Society opens in Beirut Food Lebanon’s fiery aphrodisiacs Destinations Mykonos, Cuba, Venice and New York





ftc@ftc.com.lb












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109 ALLENBY STREET, BEIRUT CENTRAL DISTRICT, LEBANON 01 991 111 EXT: 579

EMILIOPUCCI.COM





140 EL MOUTRANE STREET BEIRUT





CHLOE.COM


© 2013 CHLOE. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.




Inside No. 67 AUG/SEP 2013

Cityscape

44 Beirut Magnolia cupcakes and Façonnable 48 Beirut beaches Five glam resorts 50 London The London Edition and J. Crew 52 Paris Eating at Kinugawa and Manger 53 St. Tropez Exquisite fare at Dior des Lices 54 Milan Eating and drinking at BLAH 56 Geneva Gourmet Indian at Rasoi by Vineet 58 New York Camper and Kinky Boots 60 Los Angeles Summer at Mr. C Yacht Club 62 Dallas The Joule reborn and Nikki Reed 64 Montreal Dale Chihuly and Grace Kelly 66 Caribbean Antigua’s Carlisle Bay 68 Dubai Soon: the Dubai Design District

Spotlight

70 Metropolitan Art Society Now in Beirut

Playground

86 TV The manliest shows on earth 88 Music Sexy tunes by sexy men 90 Books Just for the boys

Fashion

92 Four key trends In menswear 96 Cool color Touch of gray 98 Androgynous flair For men 100 Hot stuff Fall looks for the ladies 106 Statement pieces By top designers 108 Camper All together now

110 Trends Pastels and oversized accessories 112 Heartbreaker A Cartier watch for men 114 Castaways Sexy styles, for him and her 132 Memoirs of a geisha Japan-inspired flair 150 Secretary How to dress like an office siren

Beauty

176 Skincare Key products for men 178 Treatment Cornelia’s exclusive facial 180 Fragrances The unisex options 182 Must-haves The Dolce & Gabbana look

Celebrity

184 Renaud Paul-Dauphin Of John Lobb 186 Omar Christidis Tech entrepreneur 188 Jennifer Flay An artistic bent 190 Steve Hindy His Brooklyn brew 192 Nasri Atallah Writing outside Beirut

Design

198 Architecture Three new American icons 202 Michael Yeung A chat with the designer 204 Design trend Massive murals 206 Design update New York’s ICFF


An enchanting melody of exceptional blue sapphire and yellow and white diamond to indulge in the delightful sensation of butterfly kissing.

Weygand St., Downtown Beirut – Beirut Souks - Sassine Square, Achrafieh - Tel: +961 1 981 555 – www.georgehakim.com

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Inside High Art

208 Taner Ceylan The artist’s erotic work 210 HangarBicocca A two-year preview 212 Carlo Sampietro Urban inspiration 214 Giuseppe Penone At Versailles 218 Albert Oehlen His latest exhibition 222 Anachar Basbous Lebanese sculptor 224 Dallas The city artistic 228 Venice Biennial A look at the highlights

Gourmet

234 Restaurants Romantic Beirut spots 236 Business dining In Toronto and New York 238 Aphrodisiacs Lebanon’s very own

Lifestyle

240 Wineries Two Lebanese wine producers 244 Nightlife Beirut’s happy hour 246 Sex coach Meet Eric Amaranth 248 Photographs Of the morning after

no. 67 aug/sep 2013 LL10,000

Snapshot

250 Casino du Liban Let the games begin

Journey

254 Cuba part one Rum and sensuality 258 Cuba part two Your Havana playground 260 New York Bad neighborhoods gone trendy 264 Aloft Harlem Young, dynamic hotel 266 Urban parks In and near New York 270 The Refinery Manhattan’s hip new hotel 272 The Savoy A bachelor’s London address 274 Mandarin Oriental Geneva’s grande dame 278 Hotel Métropole Monaco marvel 280 Silversea cruise Sailing the Mediterranean 282 Mykonos Summer on the Greek island 284 Bkassine Jewel of Southern Lebanon 286 British Airways A Club World affair

Last Word

288 Tenga Egg Personal pleasure for men

Steal my thunder An outpouring of style and sensuality

Fashion A peek at the fall collections Celebrities Taner Ceylan, Jennifer Flay, Michael Yeung, Omar Christidis and Carlo Sampietro Art Metropolitan Art Society opens in Beirut Food Lebanon’s fiery aphrodisiacs Destinations Mykonos, Cuba, Venice and New York

Cover He’s in a Prada shirt, and she’s in a Balenciaga bra. Photographer Jimmy Backius. Stylist Amelianna Loiacono. Hair and makeup Theresa Grundin. Location Raouche, Lebanon.



Publisher

Tony Salamé Group TSG SAL

Editor-in-chief Marwan Naaman

Creative director Malak Beydoun

Editors

Assistants to the editor Nora Habbal, Alexander Wilson Contributing editors May Farah, Leslie Jirsa, Serena Makofsky Canada editor Melanie Reffes France editor Brent Gregston Italy editor Renata Fontanelli UK editor Grace Banks US editor Robert Landon Beauty editor Charlotte Colquhoun

Art directors

Art and production director Maria Maalouf Guest art directors Raya Farhat, Layla Naamani Junior art director Charline Brechotte

Writers

Salma Abdelnour, William Dobson, Stephanie Epiro, Elgy Gillespie, Lucy Gillespie, Tala Habbal, Michael Karam, Anthony Klatt Marie Le Fort, MacKenzie Lewis, Sabina Llewellyn-Davies, Nan McElroy, Shirine Saad Helen Kitti Smith, Pip Usher, Dorothy Weiner, J. Michael Welton

Photographers

Fashion photographers Jimmy Backius, Ilaria Orsini, Alice Rosati, Tsar Contributing photographers Paul Clemence, Mark Downey, Tony Elieh, Joe Kesrouani, George Sokhn

Stylist

Amelianna Loiacono

Illustrator Mélanie Dagher

Alexander Wilson Alexander Wilson has been assistant editor at A magazine for just under a year. In this capacity, he organizes the publication’s photo shoots, sources the images you see inside these pages and ensures that all deadlines are promptly met. He also manages Aïshti’s lifestyle blog, aishtiblog.com. This is his final contribution as he plans to return to London.

Ilaria Orsini A graduate of the Italian Institute of Photography, Ilaria Orsini moved to Paris early on to work as Paolo Roversi’s assistant photographer. She has since photographed her own shoots for various fashion magazines, including Another Magazine, Glamour and Elle Italia. She still resides in Paris.

Paul Clemence Paul Clemence is an award winning photographer and artist exploring the cross sections of design, art and architecture. He exhibits in the international fine arts circuit and has authored several books. “Architecture Photography,” his Facebook photography page, is a global photography and architecture community.

Patrick O’Donnell Model Patrick O’Donnell was scouted by photographer Alasdair McLellan while working as a laborer on McLellan’s house. In May 2011, he became the first male model to grace the cover of i-D magazine in six years. He has since appeared in editorials for Vogue, L’Officiel Hommes, GQ Style and Details, to name a few.

Nan McElroy Nan McElroy is a writer/ editorial-reportage photographer based in Venice, Italy. In addition to A magazine, she freelances for Qatar Airlines and her own blog, livingveniceblog. com. She is the author of Italy: Instructions for Use, a contributor to Fodor’s travel guides and the creator of the Venice Vap Map vaporetto map.

Robert Landon A magazine’s US editor Robert Landon writes about design and travel for a wide range of publications, including Lonely Planet, Dwell, Metropolis, Los Angeles Times and Archdaily. com. An inveterate traveler, he has lived in Rio de Janeiro, Paris and San Francisco. He now makes his home in New York City.

Advertising

Melhem Moussallem, Bouchra Boustany, Stephanie Missirian

Production and printing

Senior photo producer Fadi Maalouf Printing Dots: The Art of Printing

Responsible director Nasser Bitar

140 El Moutrane St., Fourth Floor, Downtown Beirut, Lebanon, tel. 961.1.974.444, a@aishti.com, www.aishti.com


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7/16/13 3:13 PM


manly touch

Summer’s the best time to have a slightly more masculine version of A magazine. Here and there, throughout the pages of this publication, we’ve added light doses of masculine flair, with articles and images geared specifically toward men and covering varied topics like fashion, skincare and even sexual escapades. Ladies are still gracing many of our pages, but for once we’re infusing A magazine with seductive – and addictive – male energy.

Marwan Naaman



A cityscape

Just in Beirut Puz/zle (left)

Sidi Larbi Cherkaoui’s mesmerizing contemporary dance piece Puz/zle includes performances by Japanese musician Kazunari Abe and Lebanese soprano Fadia Tomb El-Hage. This show is part of the Baalbeck International Festival, which was moved to Beirut. August 30, La Magnanerie, Sad el Baouchriyeh, tel. 01.373.150, baalbeck.org.lb

Each piece in Chopard’s new Happy Diamonds collection includes three hearts and three diamonds, representing time past, present and future. Pieces from this gorgeous line are featured in the upcoming film Diana, starring Naomi Watts. Available at Mouawad’s three locations: Beirut Souks, Grand Hills and Beirut Duty Free, mouawad.com

Diesel (above)

ChloŽ (above)

Music fans, this one’s for you. Diesel’s menswear collection for fall/winter 2013-14 is inspired by the wild world of rock, with leather jackets, slim denim and vintagelooking shoes. Available at Diesel in Downtown Beirut and at Beirut City Center mall in Hazmieh.

The very chic Alice bag by Chloé is one of the must-have accessories from the upcoming fall collections. The bag comes in either medium or large sizes and in either leather or luxurious python. Available at Chloé and at Aïshti stores.

IWC (above) Ted Baker (right)

Fans of London style rejoice: Lebanon now has its very own Ted Baker boutique, with the full collection of men’s and women’s clothing and accessories. Beirut City Center, Hazmieh, tedbaker.com A 44

IWC Schaffhausen has released a limited edition watch in aid of the Laureus Sport for Good Foundation. The timepiece is a re-creation of the Portuguese Yacht Club Chronograph, but this time in Laureus blue, a color synonymous with hope for disadvantaged children. Beirut Souks, tel. 01.256.655, iwc.com

©Baalbeck International Festival, Ted Baker, Beiteddine Art Festival, Chanel, Chloé, Chopard, Diesel, Raya Farhat, IWC, Dina Jsr, Magnolia Bakery

Chopard (below)


Patricia Kaas (above)

In a sterling performance entitled “Kaas Chante Piaf ” and part of the Beiteddine Art Festival, French chanteuse Patricia Kaas sings classic tunes by the late, great Edith Piaf. August 10, Beiteddine, Shouf, tel. 01.373.430, beiteddine.org

Gurian (above)

Italian label Gurian manufactures luxury furniture and home accessories, including the sleek caramel-colored sofa pictured here. Available at Aïshti Seaside, Jal el Dib, tel. 04.717.716.

Dina Jsr (left)

Lebanese designer Dina Jsr’s fall/winter 201314 collection is inspired by Zaha Hadid’s Dorobanti Tower in Bucharest. The angular, precise figures are laser-cut, and they intertwine and repeat themselves beautifully. Dabar Bldg., Fouad Chehab Ave., Saifi Village, tel. 01.972.297, dinajsr.com

Bleu de Chanel (above)

If you like Bleu de Chanel, then you’ll love the range of men’s products designed to complement the iconic fragrance. Try the deodorant (stick or spray), shower gel and after shave (balm or lotion), all of which exude Bleu’s enticing citrus and wood scent. Available at Aïshti stores.

Magnolia Bakery (right)

Everyone’s favorite cupcake provider, New York’s Magnolia Bakery, just opened a stylish new outpost in the Faqra mountains. Plans are also under way to open a branch at ABC Ashrafieh. Faqra, tel. 79.141.908.

People at Faqra (left)

Just in case you didn’t know, People at Faqra is open once again for the summer season. The casually sophisticated menu includes gourmet burgers and pizzas, as well as an exquisite Caesar salad topped with chicken, all served in a spectacular mountain setting. Faqra, tel. 09.301.777. A 45


A cityscape

Just in Beirut

Le Silla (right)

Chanel (below)

Le Silla is offering something glittery, shiny and precious for fall/winter 2013-14. Check out the Italian footwear label’s latest colorful, eye-catching heels. Available at Aïshti stores.

Chanel has taken a giant leap in the field of skincare with the release of three complimentary moisturizers: Le Jour de Chanel for morning, La Nuit de Chanel for nighttime and Le Weekend de Chanel for end-of-week recharging. Available at Aïshti stores.

Marks & Spencer (below)

British retailer Marks & Spencer opened its first Lebanon store last July. The sprawling shopping space carries the label’s highquality menswear, womenswear and lingerie. Beirut City Center, Hazmieh, marksandspencer.com

The third generation BMW Z4, now available in Lebanon, offers all the driving pleasure of a BMW Roadster. The sleek car showcases innovative new exterior features and a refined interior. Visit bmw-lebanon.com

Samsung (below)

Recreate the movie-going experience in your own home with Samsung’s S9 85-inch, Ultra HD TV. The smart TV combines a powerful sound system with a fast quad-core processor to ensure a premium experience. Visit samsung.com

Fa• onnable (left)

Beirut’s new and only Façonnable boutique opened last June. The Aïshti-owned store carries the full collections for men and women from the famed French label. Saad Zaghloul St., Downtown Beirut, tel. 01. 991.111. A 46

©BMW, Chanel, Raya Farhat, Le Silla, Marks & Spencer, Samsung

BMW Z4 (above)


Sylvie Saliba . Quantum towerS . tel 01/330 500 . www.SylvieSaliba.com . www.aS29.com

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30/07/13 16:59


A cityscape

Just in Beirut beaches

Iris Beach (left)

Trendy and fun, with lounging beds in yellow, turquoise and green surrounding a T-shaped infinity pool, this beach resort south of Beirut has become a favorite destination since it opened last year. Its beach bar and restaurant are also the in spot for sunset cocktails, seaside dining and weekend DJ parties. Damour, tel. 71.533.318.

Lazy B (above)

Wonderfully spacious and boasting three freshwater swimming pools, three natural creeks and little nooks and seating areas offering different spaces to relax or engage, seek solitude or crowds, Lazy B still tops many favorite lists. And this year, with the opening of La Posta Estate, it’s also the place for great Italian food. Jiyeh, tel. 70.950.010.

Bonita Bay (below)

Comfortable, stylish and achingly uncomplicated, this charming North Lebanon beach venue attracts locals and tourists day and night. By day, the lined beach beds are filled with sun-worshipping bodies; by night, great seafood and Lebanese mezza dishes served al fresco draw the crowds. Batroun, tel. 06.744.844.

With numerous pools, a long stretch of white sandy beach, a boutique hotel, spa and wellness center, water sport facilities and numerous dining options, this iconic resort has it all – in a remarkably picturesque, purplesplashed setting. Byblos, tel. 09.546.666.

La Plage (above)

Tucked away in Ain el Mreisseh, this little hidden gem of a beach club is small and intimate, and a stylish spot for the bronzed and beautiful who position their well-toned bodies strategically around the pool. Beirut, tel. 01.366.222. A 48

©Bonita Bay, Iris Beach, La Plage, Lazy B, George Sokhn

EddŽ Sands (below)


ABC Mall Ashrafieh | +961 1 324 911 ABC Mall Dbayeh | +961 4 407 411 Downtown Beirut | +961 1 988 911 Beirut Souks | +961 1 985 911 www.porsche-design.com

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22.05.13 17:44


A cityscape

Just in London

Hawksmoor Bar (below)

Grain Store (left)

Anyone who dines at this steak joint raves about it. And Hawksmoor’s new underground bar? Even better! Complete with Victorian mirrors and personalized juleps, this is the best spot for an illicit rendezvous. 157A Commercial St., E1, tel. 44.20.7426.4850, thehawksmoor.com

Tony Conigliaro and Bruno Loubet, owners of Zetter Townhouse, have just introduced Grain Store. The place serves Greco-Roman inspired smoked wine and a chilled lobster bloody mary, and offers a fresh new direction for seasonal dining. Grain Store, Granary Square, 103 Stable St., N1, tel. 44.20.7324.4466, grainstore.com

J. Crew (below)

The first J. Crew store in Europe promises to deliver the label’s distinctive and preppy style to British shores. J. Crew is beloved for its button down-shirts, Hepburn-reminiscent capri pants and patent kitten heals. 165 Regent St., W1, jcrew.com

Poster Art 150 (below)

The Attendant (above)

Take café culture to another level and enjoy your grind in a Victorian gentleman’s lavatory. Pete Tomlinson has restored this abandoned Fitzrovia spot, which comes with original urinals designed by Dalton and Co in 1890. 27A Foley St., W1, tel. 44.20.7637.37.94, theattendant.com

The London Edition (above)

Ian Schrager returns to London for the first time since he introduced Sanderson and St. Martins Lane. His new project, The London Edition, opening this fall, is the latest from Edition Hotels, the brand he created in partnership with Marriott International. 10 Berners St., W1, tel. 44.20.7781.0000, editionhotels.com A 50

©Attendant, Edition Hotels, Grain Store, Hawksmoor, J. Crew, TfL

To celebrate its 150th year, the London Underground presents “Poster Art 150,” a rare exhibition featuring 150 of the greatest London Underground posters created over the last century and a half. On view until October 27 at the London Transport Museum, Covent Garden Piazza, WC2, tel. 44.20.7379.6344, ltmuseum.co.uk



A cityscape

Just in Paris

Fish Club (above)

The people behind ultra-trendy Experimental Cocktail Club opened Fish Bar right next door, a sea-inspired restaurant serving Peruvianstyle ceviche, oysters, caviar and more. 58 Rue Jean Jacques Rousseau, first arrondissement, tel. 33.1.40.26.68.75, eccfishclub.com

Diptyque (right)

Kinugawa (above)

Imagined by Japanese designer Akira Minagawa, founder of Finnish brand minä perhonen, Diptyque’s three new, limited edition candles are inspired by poetry. The scented candles are named Ciel, Joie and Infini. 34 Boulevard St. Germain, fifth arrondissement, tel. 33.1.43.26.77.44, diptyqueparis.com

New restaurant Kinugawa showcases heartstopping interiors designed by Gilles & Boissier and a refined Japanese menu with sushi, sashimi and a number of creative dishes like scallops stir-fried in yuzu. 9 Rue du Mont Thabor, first arrondissment, tel. 33.1.42.60.65.07, kinugawa.fr

Corion (below)

New brand Corion offers a wide selection of timeless, classic totes and creative carry-on bags in rattan or velvety leather. A stylish new Parisian label. Visit corion-paris.com

Manger (left)

Chef William Pradeleix, who helmed kitchens at New York’s Jean-Georges restaurants and at Hélène Darroze in London’s Connaught, is the force behind Manger. The new eatery serves eclectic dishes, including fish cake, pizza, dim sum, gazpacho and more. 24 Rue Keller, 11th arrondissement, tel. 33.1.43.38.69.15, manger-leresto.com A 52

©Corion, Diptyque, Fish Club, Manger, Matthieu Salvaing, Shang Xia

Shang Xia (left)

Founded in 2008 by Jiang Qiong Er in collaboration with Hermès, Shang Xia creates lifestyle objects that echo ancestral Chinese traditions and craftsmanship. The luxury brand opens its first store outside China, in Paris, this September. 8 Rue de Sèvres, sixth arrondissement, shang-xia.com


Just in St. Tropez Hotel de Paris (right)

Hotel de Paris is the newest addition to the St. Tropez hotel scene. Reopened in February, after a revamping by Sybille de Margerie, the hotel now boasts a clearbottom pool suspended above the atrium on the rooftop, flower-power prints, white lacquer and shimmery fabrics. 1 Traverse de la Gendarmerie, tel. 33.4.83.09.60.00, hoteldeparis-sainttropez.com

DVF (left)

Whimsical prints, suggestive dresses, sensual fabrics and bold colors are perfect for St. Tropez, and Diane von Furstenberg offers just that with the fall/winter 2013-14 collection. Visit her iconic boutique to get the latest styles. 21 Rue Gambetta, tel. 33.4.94.96.68.30, dvf.com

Dior des Lices (below)

This summer and until October, Dior’s St. Tropez boutique is hosting Dior des Lices, a temporary but superlative restaurant helmed by Michelin-starred chef Yannick Alléno. 25 Rue François Sibilli, tel. 33.4.98.12.67.65, dior.com

Rivea (right)

©Dior, Hotel de Paris, JJ Lheritier, Cyrille Maragrit CMC, Diane von Furstenberg

Designed by Antonio Citterio and Patricia Viel, Alain Ducasse’s new Mediterranean restaurant Rivea is located inside St. Tropez’s iconic Byblos Hotel. Of note: a stunning chandelier designed by Ingo Maurer made of fishing nets and Swarovski crystal. 20 Avenue Paul Signac, tel. 33.4.94.56.68.01, byblos.com

Rabih Kayrouz (left)

Lebanese designer Rabih Kayrouz’s first summer boutique opened near the prestigious Place des Lices. The store carries limited edition summer accessories – like colorful pashminas and beach throws – created specifically for this special St. Tropez location. 37 Rue Gambetta, tel. 33.4.94.81.83.02, maisonrabihkayrouz.com A 53


A cityscape

Just in Milan

Dolce & Gabbana (left)

The golden mosaics of the Cathedral of Monreale in Sicily provide the main inspiration for Dolce & Gabbana’s fall/winter 2013-14 collection for women. Standouts include lace dresses with wide sleeves and a bustier made from altar-chalice gold. 26 Via della Spiga, tel. 39.02.7600.1155, dolcegabbana.com

BLAH (above)

Milan’s newest hotspot, BLAH (Breakfast, Lunch And Happy hour) is a multifunctional and multi-dimensional food bar. The place is small and intimate in the morning for breakfast, then it turns into an open space for lunch and it’s once again downsized when it’s time for happy hour. 6 Via Turati, tel. 39.02.3966.9441, blah-bar.it

Etro (below)

Vigan˜ Alta Moda (below)

LÕ Erbavoglio (above)

Set in trendy Brera, L’Erbavoglio sells handmade flowers and plants all made from metal. These mini sculptures are designed to last forever. 5 Via Formentini, tel. 39.02.7200.2757, lerbavoglio-brera.com A 54

©BLAH, Dolce & Gabbana, Etro, L’Erbavoglio, Viganò Alta Moda

Etro’s breathtaking menswear collection for fall/winter 2013-14 connects Northern Europe to the Himalayas. There are golden orange velvet kimonos, gilded brocades and even a jacket in a shimmering tiger print. 5 Via Montenapoleone, tel. 39.02.7600.5049, etro.com

This beautifully retro boutique carries stunning, unique accessories like small evening bags, delightful fans, fancy umbrellas and rare jewelry. Two locations: 14 Galleria Vittorio Emanuele and 39 Via Paolo da Canobio, vigano1919.it



A cityscape

Just in Geneva

Favarger (below)

Rasoi by Vineet (left)

A purveyor of fine chocolate since 1826, Favarger sells chocolate bars as well as bespoke boxes filled with nougalines (a crunchy praline made with milk chocolate and nuts). 19 Quai des Bergues, tel. 41.22.738.1826, favarger.ch

Geneva’s premier Indian restaurant, Rasoi serves the delectable culinary creations of chef Vineet Bhatia. Exceptional menu options include a fragrant vegetarian biryani and a chocolate platter infused with flavors like cardamom and chenna. Mandarin Oriental, 1 Quai Turrettini, tel. 41.22.909.0000, mandarinoriental.com/ geneva

Arabesque (right)

Lebanese chef Elias Azar prepares refined dishes from his home country in his upscale restaurant Arabesque. Specialties include hommos bayrouti, moutabbal and raw kibbe, among many more. Hotel Président Wilson, 47 Quai Wilson, tel. 41.22.906.6763, hotelpwilson.com

Patek Philippe Museum (right)

Geneva-based watch brand Patek Philippe has its very own museum. Here, visitors can browse innumerable and stunning timepieces from the 16th century all the way to the present day. 7 Rue des Vieux-Grenadiers, tel. 41.22.807.0910, patekmuseum.com

Spirited Swiss jewelry designer Philippe Cramer has launched a beautifully humorous new collection named Monsters. When you wear one or more of the rings, it looks as if monsters are nibbling your fingers. Visit philippecramer.com

The Eternal Detour (left)

“The Eternal Detour” features monographic exhibitions showcasing work by eight prominent artists from the second half of the 20th century up to the present day. The artists include Robert Heinecken, Jean-Jacques Lebel, Jean Otth and Hervé Télémaque. On view until September 15 at Mamco, 10 Rue des Vieux Grenadiers, tel. 41.22.320.6122, mamco.ch A 56

©Philippe Cramer, Favarger, Hotel Président Wilson, Ilmari Kalkkinen/Mamco, Mandarin Oriental, Patek Philippe

Philippe Cramer (below)


NICOLE KIDMAN WATCH THE FILM AT JIMMYCHOO.COM


A cityscape

Just in New York

Saint Laurent (left)

Kandinky in Paris (right)

Vasily Kandinsky is intimately linked to the Guggenheim Museum, whose collection includes over 150 of his works, regularly presented in a gallery at the museum. The current show, “Kandinsky in Paris, 19341944,” examines the last 11 years of his life. Ongoing at the Guggenheim, 1071 Fifth Ave., tel. 1.212.423.3500, guggenheim.org

Tory Burch (above)

Carl Hansen & Son (below)

For the 50th anniversary of Hans J. Wegner’s Shell Chair, Carl Hansen & Son has teamed up with Maharam to release 20 special versions of Wegner’s iconic design. Each chair is enlivened with some of Maharam’s most famous textile designs. 304 Hudson St., tel. 1.212.242.6736, carlhansen.com

SakaMai (above)

New York’s hip sake lounge SakaMai opened at the very end of last year. The elaborate Japanese drink menu includes craft beer, cocktails, whiskey and shochu. The dinner options are paired with and inspired by Japanese beverages. 157 Ludlow St., tel. 1.646.590.0684, sakamai.com A 58

Inspired by the work of 20th-century artist Gustav Klimt, the fall/winter 2013-14 collection from Tory Burch shimmers with romance. The fairy-tale outfits are adorned with Art Nouveau florals and dragonfly motifs. Three locations: 38-40 Little W. 12th St., 797 Madison Ave. and 257 Elizabeth St., toryburch.com

Bernardaud (above)

French Limoges manufacturer Bernardaud opened a new store in Chelsea. This is the first boutique to exclusively feature the artistdesigned dinnerware created for Bernardaud’s 150th anniversary. View tableware by Jeff Koons, Nabil Nahas, Julian Schnabel and more. 465 W. 23rd St., bernardaud150.com

©Artists Rights Society/ADAGP, Bernardaud, Bistro La Promenade, Tory Burch, Camper, Carl Hansen & Son, O. Fernandez/Library of Congress, Foscarini, Judd Foundation, Kinky Boots, Saint Laurent, SakaMai

Iconic French label Saint Laurent has opened a brand-new flagship in Soho. On the left, men’s and women’s shoes and accessories are arranged in color gradations, with silver vitrines of more accessories in the middle. The clothes are all set to the right of the space. 80 Greene St., tel. 1.212.431.3240, ysl.com


Donald Judd (right)

Activist New York (below)

Artist Donald Judd’s former studio and residence in Soho has just been restored and is now open to the public. Visitors experience Judd’s home and studio, as originally installed by the artist, and are guided through all floors of the building. 101 Spring St., tel. 1.212.219.2747, juddfoundation.org.

Using artifacts, photos, audio and visual presentations, as well as interactive components, “Activist New York” presents the passions and conflicts that underlie the city’s history of agitation. Ongoing at the Museum of the City of New York, 1220 Fifth Ave., tel. 1.212.534.1672, mcny.org

Kinky Boots (below)

Broadway’s hottest musical features music and lyrics by ‘80s pop icon Cyndi Lauper, and a book by actor and playwright Harvey Fierstein. Kinky Boots won Best Musical at the Tony Awards last June. Running until January 5 at Al Hirschfeld Theater, 302 W. 45th St., tel. 1.212.560.2162, kinkybootsthemusical.com

Foscarini (above)

Italian lighting company Foscarini just opened its first store in North America. The Soho space combines retail and contract capabilities and hosts site-specific installations by artists and designers. 17 Greene St., tel. 1.212.257.4412, foscarini.com

Bistro La Promenade (below)

Helmed by chef (and owner) Alain Allegretti, Bistro La Promenade offers a menu inspired by the flavors of the French Riviera. Specialties include seaweed crusted scallops and escargots with herbs and garlic. 461 W. 23rd St., tel. 1.212.255.7400, lapromenadenyc.com

Camper (left)

Camper fans rejoice! The Spanish footwear brand now has a stylish boutique smack on Fifth Avenue. The Camper Together limited edition models, created in collaboration with such renowned designers as Jamie Hayon and the Campana Brothers, are available here. 522 Fifth Ave., camper.com 59 A


A cityscape

Just in Los Angeles

Kitasono Katue (left)

“Kitasono Katue: Surrealist Poet” is the first solo exhibit of Katue’s art outside Japan. Katue (1902-1978) was the best-known Japanese poet/artist in Europe and the United States during the middle half of the 20th century. On view from August 3-December 1 at LACMA, 5905 Wilshire Blvd., tel. 1.323.857.6000, lacma.org

Leica (below)

Ed Ruscha’s art exudes graphic simplicity and playful humor. This exhibit explores Ruscha’s photography, including well-known photobased book projects. On view until September 29 at the Getty Center, 1200 Getty Center Dr., tel. 1.310.440.7300, getty.edu

Mr. C Yacht Club (right)

Just like last summer and until September 8, Mr. C Beverly Hills hotel is hosting an exclusive, nautical-inspired cocktail brunch and pool series, every Sunday from noon to 5pm. Mr. C Beverly Hills, 1224 Beverwil Dr., tel. 1.310.277.2800, mrchotels.com

Maya Hayuk (right)

With their symmetrical compositions, intricate patterns and lush colors, Maya Hayuk’s paintings and massive murals recall views of outer space, traditional Ukrainian crafts, airbrushed manicures and mandalas. On view from August 19-January 19 at the Hammer Museum, 10899 Wilshire Blvd., tel. 1.310.443.7000, hammer.ucla.edu A 60

True Religion (above)

US denim brand True Religion has three cool men’s models for the upcoming fall season: the Slim, which is comfortably contoured and not too skinny, the Straight, which complements all body types, and the signature, all-American Bootcut. Various locations around LA, including Beverly Center, Santa Monica Place and Century City, truereligionbrandjeans.com

©Maya Hayuk/Bonnefantenmuseum, Kitasono Katue/LACMA, Mr. C, Ed Ruscha/J. Paul Getty Museum, True Religion, Todd Williamson/Invision for Leica/AP Images

In Focus: Ed Ruscha (below)

LA’s new Leica flagship opened last June with a grand, star-studded event attended by the likes of Marcia Cross and Keegan Allen. An art gallery and store all in one, the space carries Leica cameras and accessories as well as sleek photography books. 8783 Beverly Blvd., West Hollywood, tel. 1.424.777.0341, leicastorela.com



A cityscape

Just in Dallas

DallasSITES (below)

Bottega Veneta (left)

Tomas Maier created a collection based on suits and coats for Bottega Veneta menswear. The fall/ winter 2013-14 line showcases a lean silhouette and an ultra-sharp monochrome palette. NorthPark Center, 8687 N. Central Expressway, tel. 1.214.265.0136, bottegaveneta.com

Katharina Grosse (below)

“Wunderblock” is an exhibition of works by Berlin-based artist Katharina Grosse, who’s best-known for her large wall paintings produced in architectural spaces. On view until September 1 at the Nasher Sculpture Center, 2001 Flora St., tel. 1.214.242.5100, nashersculpturecenter.org

The French Room (above)

Chef Marcos Segovia creates superlative Gallic cuisine at The French Room, named the best restaurant in Dallas by the prestigious Zagat restaurant guide. The Adolphus, 1321 Commerce St., tel. 1.214.742.8200, hoteladolphus.com

The Body Beautiful (below)

A highlight of the season, “The Body Beautiful in Ancient Greece” showcases over 120 objects exploring the human form, through artworks on loan from the British Museum’s collection of Greek and Roman sculpture. On view until October 6 at the Dallas Museum of Art, 1717 N. Harwood, tel. 1.214.922.1200, dallasmuseumofart.org

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©7 For All Mankind, Bottega Veneta, Dallas Museum of Art Archives, DV Design, Gucci, Hospitality Sweet, Joule Hotel, Kevin Todora/Nasher Sculpture Center, Trustees of the British Museum

“DallasSITES Charting Contemporary Art, 1963 to Present” examines the moments, people and organizations that shaped North Texas’ relationship with contemporary art. The exhibit includes posters, publications, photos, video and art objects. On view until September 15 at the Dallas Museum of Art, 1717 N. Harwood, tel. 1.214.922.1200, dallasmuseumofart.org


Gucci (above)

Texas ladies have a soft spot for Gucci. After the summer’s explosion of color, fall ushers in a darker palette for the Italian fashion house. Of note: the shiny black python skirt suit. NorthPark Center, 8687 N. Central Expressway, tel. 1.214.363.7441, gucci.com

7 For All Mankind (below)

LA denim brand 7 For All Mankind teamed up with actress Nikki Reed (pictured here) to create an exclusive jewelry line that reflects Reed’s cool bohemian style. NorthPark Center, 8687 N. Central Expressway, tel. 1.214.363.7441, 7forallmankind.com

The Joule Hotel (above) The Hospitality Sweet (above)

Cupcakes, turtle brownies, macaroons, key lime tartlets and more are served daily at The Hospitality Sweet, Dallas’ prime bakery and sweet purveyor. 400 N. Ervay, tel. 1.214.999.6704, thehospitalitysweet.com

Even though it opened in 2008, The Joule Hotel has already undergone a massive, $78 million renovation. New at the hotel: ESPA luxury spa, Taschen bookstore, Traffic LA and TenOverSix clothing stores, and Mirth & Refuge cocktail lounge. 1530 Main St., tel .1.214.748.1300, thejouledallas.com 63 A


A cityscape

Just in Montreal

American artist Dale Chihuly is the subject of this exhibit. The blown glass creator is celebrated for his magical world of vibrant colors, grand shapes and awe-inspiring, spectacular installations. On view until October 20 at the Montreal Museum of Fine Arts, 1380 Rue Sherbrooke Ouest, tel. 1.514.285.2000, mbam.qc.ca

Grace Kelly (above)

“From Philadelphia to Monaco: Grace Kelly – Beyond the Icon” showcases exclusive memorabilia, including the late princess’ photos, clothing and personal love letters. A must for fans of the late princess. On view until October 5 at the McCord Museum, 690 Rue Sherbrooke Ouest, tel. 1.514.398.7100, mccord-museum.qc.ca

Articule (below)

An innovative, open-access, artist-run center, Articule showcases the eclectic work of Montreal’s emerging and established artists in an informal neighborhood setting. 262 Fairmount Ouest, tel. 1.514.842.9686, articule.org

Tapis Rouge (below)

Space for Life (above)

Brand new at the largest natural sciences museum in Canada, “Space for Life” combines art, science and human emotion in one astounding exhibit. The cosmic fable is set to the music of composer Philip Glass. Rio Tinto Alcan Planetarium, 4801 Avenue Pierre de Coubertin, tel. 1.514.868.3000, espacepourlavie.ca

Signature pieces from fashion’s greatest, from Thierry Mugler and Arnold Scassi to Christian Dior and prominent Montreal designers, thrill fashion mavens in the “Tapis Rouge” exhibit. On view until October 6 at the Museum of Costume and Textile of Quebec, 385 Rue de la Commune, tel. 1.514.419.2300, mctq.org

Fitz & Folwell Co. (left)

In addition to selling stylish bikes and fine pedaling accessories, Fitz & Folwell Co. also offers a creative roster of cycling tours, including early morning rides to the top of Montreal’s iconic Parc Mont-Royal. 115 Avenue du Mont Royal Ouest, tel. 1.514.840.0739, fitzandfollwell.co A 64

©Archives du Palais Princier de Monaco/F. Detaille, Articule, Fitz & Folwell Co., John Springer Collection/Corbis, Museum of Costume and Textile of Quebec, Rio Tinto Alcan Planetarium, Terry Rishel

Dale Chihuly (above)


AvAilAble At A誰shti stores tel. +961 1 99 11 11


A cityscape

Just in Caribbean

Zemi Beach (below)

The Westin St. John (below)

The waterfront Zemi Beach resort houses 28 luxurious residences, offering guests access to facilities such as on-site restaurants, bars and lounges, infinity-edge pools, a spa, juice bar and fitness center, and a 24-hour concierge. Shoal Bay, Anguilla, tel. 1.264.235.1879, zemibeach.com

Set adjacent to the Virgin Islands National Park and Great Cruz Bay, The Westin St. John offers a balance of relaxation and exploration, such as scuba diving, parasailing, kayaking and more. St. John, US Virgin Islands, tel. 1.866.716.8108, westinresortstjohn.com

Oil Nut Bay (above)

Oil Nut Bay resort just launched The Cliffs, a special collection of luxury suites set into the beautiful rocky cliffs of a 300-acre private peninsula. The Cliffs includes two deluxe rental suites and a luxurious penthouse furnished by Fendi Casa. Virgin Gorda, British Virgin Islands, tel. 1.284.393.1000, oilnutbay.com

St. Regis Bahia Beach (left)

The St. Regis Bahia Beach is set on a former coconut plantation at the foot of El Yunque rainforest, embracing 483 acres of nature reserve. Guests can arrange a nature walk around the property or enjoy dinner at famed chef Jean-Georges’ Fern restaurant. Rio Grande, Puerto Rico, tel. 1.787.809.8000, stregisbahiabeach.com

Carlisle Bay (below)

©Carlisle Bay, Christian Horan Photography, St. Regis, Westin, Zemi Beach

Created by Gordon Campbell Gray, Carlisle Bay is a dream destination offering 82 contemporary, ocean-view suites. Attractions include Indigo on the Beach restaurant and the plush Blue Spa. Old Rd., St. Mary’s, Antigua, tel. 1.268.484.0000, carlisle-bay.com

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nancygonzalez.com

A誰shti, Downtown Beirut 01. 99 11 11


A cityscape

Just in Dubai

Vogue CafŽ (left)

This super-stylish café serves up an extensive menu, with lashings of glamour. Nip in for a mocktail or two en route to the Level Shoe District. Dubai Mall, vogue.com

Givori (right)

Luxury smartphone accessorizer Givori launched its first ever men’s collection. Givori Phantom Black Platinum consists of an iPhone 5 customized with black rhodium, one of the rarest, most valuable precious metals on the planet. Available at Axiom Telecom, Harvey Nichols and Damas Les Exclusives, givori.com

Mahani (above)

Billed as Dubai’s first concept store, Mahani carries an impressive roster of cutting-edge designers, from Carven to Rodarte, as well as a capsule collection of magazines and art. The Boulevard, Jumeirah Emirates Towers, tel. 971.5.5288.0613, mahanifashion.com

Robert Wan (below)

Dubai Design District (right)

Reem Acra described Dubai’s upcoming Design District as “a great cultural mission.” The first phase opens in 2015, with an aim to develop the Emirate’s fashion, design and luxury sectors. Tel. 971.4.391.1111, dubaidesigndistrict.com A 68

Fuego (right)

Mexican cuisine can sometimes get a bad rap due to dodgy sombrero-clad waiters serving tepid tacos and questionable guacamole. Fuego’s inventive gourmet offerings are spearheading a major change in Dubai. Souk al Bahar, tel. 971.4.449.0977, fuego.ae

©Dubai Design District, Fuego, Givori, Mahani, Vogue Café, Robert Wan

Tahitian pearl connoisseur Robert Wan launched his latest collection of incredibly colored pearls at Bloomingdale’s. The designs range from elegant and classic to chic and contemporary. Bloomingdale’s, Dubai Mall, robertwan.com



A spotlight _ art gallery

ŠGiorgio Guy Tarraf

A Metropolitan affair

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Visit Beirut’s newest contemporary art space

Contemporary art has a new home at Beirut’s recently launched Metropolitan Art Society (MAS). Set inside the gloriously, spectacularly restored Metropolitan Club in Ashrafieh, MAS is the latest project from Tony Salamé founder and CEO of Aïshti, and it cements Beirut’s status as the regional hub for contemporary art. MAS opened to the public last June, with the “East of

Eden” group exhibit, featuring contemporary works by the likes of John Armleder, Christian Holstad, Thomas Houseago, Yan Pei-Ming, Rob Pruitt, Piotr Uklanski and Kaari Upson. On opening night, guests were first invited to view the artworks, set on the stark white walls of the ancient home, and then were treated to an al fresco Italian dinner catered by La Posta, to the sound of breezy tunes spun by top Beirut DJ and radio personality Médéa Azouri.

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A spotlight _ art gallery

A home for the arts It’s with the same spirit that Salamé decided to open MAS. This time around though, the cultural exchange will be mutual, with locals getting A 72

©Giorgio Guy Tarraf

The roots of the project Even before his entry into the world of luxury retailing, Salamé had been passionate about contemporary art, and this passion was accompanied by a strong appreciation of the link between fashion and art. He started purchasing contemporary art pieces by emerging artists, as well as work by some of the leading artists of the 20th century. Over the years, he cultivated intimate relationships with the globe’s most renowned artists and gallerists, even exhibiting some of his purchases inside various Aïshti stores in Lebanon. His aim was (and still is) to introduce contemporary art to as wide an audience as possible, while at the same time offering a novel sensory experience.


to know the work of Western artists, and important figures from the international scene getting to experience Lebanon. The new art gallery is designed to host temporary exhibits curated by renowned international art dealers and gallerists, with the aim to place international art squarely within Lebanese culture and to make important works of art accessible to Lebanese collectors. MAS spreads over 500 square meters on the ground floor of the Metropolitan Club and boats skyhigh ceilings and an enormous amount of natural light. The “East of Eden” inaugural show was curated by Massimo de Carlo, owner of MDC art gallery in Milan. De Carlo founded his gallery in 1987 and has been instrumental in introducing Italian artists to European and American audiences, and vice versa. The artists he represents have gained international recognition, with their work gracing galleries, museums and biennials across the United States and Europe. “East of Eden” runs until September 10 at the Metropolitan Art Society, Trabaud St., Ashrafieh, Beirut, tel. 70.366.969. Open TuesdaySaturday, 11am-7pm. 73 A




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A playground _ tv

TV on testosterone By Leslie Jirsa

The small screen’s manliest men

A square jaw, rock hard resolution, few words, and a biblical code of personal conduct make the man. The dialogue is as sharp as the suit, and there is no whining. Manly men do not pander or question or dawdle. They do not deliberate or poll their friends for course of action. They do not gossip. A manly man has needs – specific ones, with rules. Those needs are religiously obeyed by

bartenders, women, clerks and coworkers alike. A twist in a drink? Hold all calls after 1pm? Redheads only? No mayonnaise, not ever? Yes, sir. Mere males abound, of course. Manly men, on the other hand, are carefully crafted and maintained. The best way to identify the different types of manly men is to discuss a few model specimen. For that we will turn to a natural source: television.

Game of Thrones

“There’s a beast in every man, and it stirs when you put a sword in his hand,” says Jorah Mormont on Game of Thrones. Thankfully, there are plenty of swords to go around here. As the seven noble families on Game of Thrones fight to rule Westeros, calculating, wealthy medieval manly men kill one another, bed a kingdom’s worth of disposable women and barely flinch when faced with heresy, death, scandal and betrayal. Game of Thrones has gripped a die-hard audience, and last season’s finale inspired gasps and skipped days of work: the testosterone level of the Middle Ages is hard to beat. Shields, axes and a lot of spurting blood meet raw sex, eating without utensils, sparse hygiene, mass nudity, incest and all things that are dirty, raw and masculine.

Breaking Bad

When a frustrated chemistry teacher learns he’s dying and decides to switch to meth production in the New Mexico desert to support his family, ominous energy abounds. Given two years to live, Walter White enlists one of his former students, a rough element known in the field as “Cap’n Cook” as his business partner, and turns out to be a fine narcotics manager. Throughout the series, he wrangles with the market competition (he kills them), sustains in-house staff turmoil (he kills them) and finds creative solutions to logistical challenges (he kills them). For a very manly amount of time, he hides the entire enterprise from his wife. Loose ends are neatly burned off with drugs, guns, expensive cars and general badassery.

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Dexter

When Dexter was a boy, his mother was hacked to pieces while he watched. After two days of being locked in a packing crate with her dismembered body, he emerged pissed off and off kilter, determined to deliver justice to people who kill people. During the day, Dexter is an affable, good-looking homicide detective. He is gainfully employed, married, has a kid and lives a nice suburban life. Of course the rivers of weird that rush beneath his surface surge when the office fails to get the bad guy, and that’s when he indulges his night gig: Serial Killer. Testosterone gushes when he gets mad. He has a tough time with relationships in general, and finds that the only person he can really discuss his killing hobby with is his infant son. He’s detached in a very signature macho way.

Mad Men

John Hamm has nailed his version of the manly man. He is gorgeous in that sparkly, metrosexual, ‘50s, New Yorker kind of way. He is decisive, risky and harbors creative talent even he can’t seem to control. He pulls chicks – effortlessly. Roughly half of postwar America seems to be tossing her panties into his office. He also never, ever brags. He drinks, like any good advertising creative, and he can hold his liquor. When he gets mad he is mean, and when he is sad, he drinks. He does not cry openly. He chain smokes and swims. He’s married, a few times, but someone is always creeping into his sphere hoping to ease him out of his perfectly pressed trousers. He’s always got a fresh shirt in the drawer and a gal on the couch, all the while coming up with ad slogans nobody can top.

The Sopranos

The world has lost one of its greatest manly men. Tony Soprano could whack a snitch, bed a brunette, drive his kid to school, take out the trash and pour it all out in therapy in an hour. His sleepy eyelids, the wiseguy lisp and a fierce look of real power seduced women (his wife and otherwise), before he ever opened his mouth. He could sass the law like no other, and he gripped a handgun much like he did the remote – an easy toughness that is hard to copy. Tony Soprano was an everyman and a terrifying gangster at the same time. We identify when he doesn’t understand his kids, but know we’re out of our league when he wanders right past the dead body of a former friend to head home for dinner. With the recent earthly loss of the man who played Tony Soprano, a character legend stands in his stead. Rest in peace, James Gandolfini. 87 A


A playground _ music

From Here to Now to You by Jack Johnson This is the folk musician that compelled an interviewer to say, “Your voice makes girls swoon.” But before you let yourself fall for that five o’clock shadow and the heartfelt emotion in the album’s lead single “I Got You,” remember that much of Johnson’s current material consists of love songs dedicated to his wife.

Sounds for the great seduction

Doubleback: Evolution of R & B by Joe Smooth grooves harken back to the heyday of new jack swing. This time around, Joe is a little older (this is his 10th studio album), but he is still a player, though there are hints of him looking for something more, especially in his first single “I’d Rather Have a Love.”

3.0 by Marc Anthony

If you were expecting a heartbreak album, you’re going to have to look elsewhere. Anthony’s on top of the world, and the charts, with the single “Vivir Mi Vida,” the hot song that single-handedly has sparked the comeback of salsa music. It doesn’t hurt that Anthony has got the moves to back up the beat.

Last of the Great Pretenders by Matt Nathanson

For those who find conversation a turn-on, this San Franciscobased artist has your number. His songs have less to do with playing in the bedroom and more to do with the seductive possibilities in everyday life. Catch Nathanson on his US tour this fall because he has a reputation for putting on a hilarious, often vulgar, live show.

Nothing Was the Same by Drake Yeezus by Kanye West

Equal servings of love and lust, spiced with hip-hop and, yes, punk edge. Things get trashy in “Hold My Liquor,” a blurredvision track about hooking up with an ex for a one-night stand, while the next song, “I’m In It,” has the rapper sobered up and back in charge in the bedroom. A 88

“I mean, where you think she at when she ain’t with you?” It’s a line from the single “5am in Toronto,” and it’s classic Drizzy. The Toronto rapper, recently filmed taking shots out of his Grammy statue, tells it like it is, while cashing checks and stealing girlfriends.



A playground _ books

A Delicious Life

A magazine’s international correspondent Marie Le Fort is one of the creative minds behind Gestalten’s A Delicious Life: New Food Entrepreneurs. The book highlights the work of those men and women who are fine-tuning world cuisine, rediscovering ancient ingredients, developing new recipes and creating new food experiences. Available at Papercup.

What a boy reads Eric Stanton

Dian HansonÕ s History of Pin-Up Magazines

A fabulous review of pin-up magazines, this Taschen release is actually three separate books. The first volume covers the years between 1900 and World War II, the second chronicles the post-war period until 1959, and the final one focuses on the ‘60s, including classics from Penthouse magazine. Available at Aïshti stores. A 90

It’s safe to say that all straight men (and some gay ones as well) are completely obsessed with a woman’s cleavage. Great, big, pendulous breasts are every man’s fantasy, and this Taschen book gives free rein to those fantasies with hundreds of photos of delectable, sensual boobs. Available at Aïshti stores.

Boys

Photographer Pamela Hanson provides an homage to manly youth in her sometimes sexy and always playful Assouline book. Each image is accompanied by a celebrity quote or by a handwritten comment from Hansen herself. Available at Aïshti stores.

Playboy

The most famous men’s magazine in the world is now a collector’s item, thanks to Taschen’s gorgeous hardback releases. Volume six, with the immortal Farrah Fawcett on the cover, features the most beautiful women of the 1975-79 era in various states of deshabillé. Available at Aïshti stores.

©Gestalten, Alexander Wilson

If you’re a submissive type who dreams of getting whipped into shape by a leather-clad, stilettoheeled dominatrix, then this is the book for you. Published by Taschen, the volume contains the sexually charged comic strips of the late Stanton, often called “the Rembrandt of Pulp Culture.” Available at Aïshti stores.

The Big Book of Breasts



A fashion _ menswear

Dress like an Italian

By MacKenzie Lewis

Moschino

Four key trends from Italy’s fashion houses

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Gone are the days of the dark flannel suit, when men sat back and let women worry about what to wear. For fall/winter 201314, designers drove home the point that there is no longer a uniform to fall back on. In Italy, the longstanding menswear capital, collections from Gucci to Moschino introduced enough trends to keep even the most conservative dresser captivated through winter. Mad for plaid Hardly have two groups been more diametrically opposed than the British Royal Family and the original London

Etro

punks. You’d be hard pressed to find a commonality, except, of course, when it comes to fashion; neither Prince Charles nor Sid Vicious would be anywhere without the tartan. Moschino pieced together equal parts punk and polish for fall, with slim suits that blocked solid hues with red and navy plaid. A navy blazer with plaid sleeves and a pair of tartan trouser-sweatpant hybrids were two standout pieces, as much for their tailoring as their anti-establishment charm. Elsewhere in Italy, Frida Giannini also looked to London for her color palette. Gucci’s creative director favored herringbone and houndstooth, choosing typically mod hues of

©Canali, Corneliani, Etro, Gucci, Moschino

Gucci


Etro

Corneliani

Canali

robin’s egg blue, mustard yellow, olive green and burgundy; slim, fuss-free cuts let the plaid do the talking. If Gucci’s plaids started the chatter, Kean Etro turned up the volume. Traditional tartans were woven throughout Etro’s fall collection, from plaid coats with silk lapels to plaid satchels big enough for a weekend trip to The Highlands. A mohair coat in rainbow windowpane – charcoal, chocolate, golden yellow, pale blue and hot pink – demonstrated the designer’s signature disregard for the color wheel rules. Fabulous fur collars The fur collar has never really gone out of

style in menswear, appearing in various incarnations throughout history. Russia was the inspiration for Canali’s fall collection, and while the excess we’ve come to associate with the country was evident, the flash was – thankfully – absent. Classic suiting was given another dimension, with rich jewel tones and luxurious materials, including a spectacular double-breasted wool coat with a fur collar. Corneliani’s fur-trimmed cable-knit cardigan was shown with creased trousers and lace-up boots; given its mid-century appeal, it would be equally suited to a pair of house slippers and a pipe. The vintage vibe was maintained at Moschino, where wool coats with fur

Moschino

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A fashion _ menswear

collars received the gangster treatment. Paired with fedoras and brogues, they emerged from the underworld with printed scarves and tomato-red socks. At Etro, one fur-collared coat harked back to equally dark days, if only by fashion standards. The main inspiration appeared to be the ‘70s lounge lizard, a nocturnal creature favoring furtrimmed shearling coats. Blackout bliss Is there such a thing as too much black? The ‘50s Beat Generation didn’t think so, and neither does Gucci. Like beatniks who gave up coffee shops for fine Italian tailoring, the Gucci models appeared in black turtlenecks, wool pants and coats, complete with the Beats’ signature mop of hair. A hint of Steve McQueen cool emerged from under a wool coat, in the form of a leather bomber jacket. Corneliani turned to a similar point in fashion history, albeit focusing on a A 94

Bottega Veneta

Ermenegildo Zegna

different city. The collection seemed to draw inspiration from London’s mods, right down to the black Chelsea boots. At Bottega Veneta and Ermenegildo Zegna, designers stuck to ebony, but also to their Italian heritage. Tomas Maier put the emphasis on tailoring at Bottega Veneta, removing all traces of buttons and zippers to imagine luxurious walking shadows. At Zegna, the focus was on texture, with silk, deerskin and the house’s own alpaca used to make the muted but multi-dimensional point.

Gucci

©Bottega Veneta, Corneliani, Dolce & Gabbana, Etro, Gucci, Moschino, Ermenegildo Zegna

Corneliani


Dolce & Gabbana

Etro

Print yourself a jacket The Etro man was never a shrinking violet, and this fall is no exception. With hoboesque layers of textures, Celtic prints and mismatched hues, it was the dinner jacket that reminded us of the brand’s luxury roots. If Etro was designing for a bohemian who’d hopped the intercontinental train, it was a man who hadn’t left a taste for the finer things behind. Other designers took a more restrained approach, if there is such a thing when it comes to printed dinner jackets. Not content to let women have all the fun, Dolce & Gabbana adapted their trademark floral prints to blazers. Bouquets of roses and peonies bloomed along lapels and down sleeves. Bill Shapiro built anticipation at Moschino, starting with a graphic, black-and-white patterned jacket before introducing a version in glittering black; the show’s final look included a jacket depicting a futuristic cityscape, complete with matching pants. Even Gucci snuck an exotic birds-ofparadise print dinner jacket into a collection otherwise marked by solids and plaids.

Gucci

Moschino

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A fashion _ trend

Fifty shades of gray By Grace Banks

Dolce & Gabbana

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Dolce & Gabbana

Lanvin

ŠDolce & Gabbana, Lanvin, Missoni, Prada, Unique

The cool color is one of fall’s most exciting trends


Missoni

Unique

Prada

Since Hubert de Givenchy unveiled his 1952 couture collection, the charms of gray as a statement color have been lauded. In the following years, the charcoal tones of this shade became the choice for women looking for something a little more dynamic than classic black. Gray illuminates fall/winter 2013-14’s most upfront looks, affirming itself as anything but prim. Louis Vuitton dressed up their sheer silk evening slip with a chinchilla gray coat – reminiscent of the swagger of late ‘90s music videos – while in New York, Alexander Wang featured thighhigh gray mini-dresses, as far from tame as you can imagine.

hemlines. Prada too went full steam ahead, taking the color into a hyper glamorous realm through texture, utilizing silver foils to convert their sexy silhouette into something more directional.

pony hair skirt suit is impossibly cool and removes any connotations of dullness from this shade.

Dolce & Gabbana kept their Sicilian heroine securely in place while working a rainbow of gray into their runway looks: champagne-colored tunic tops and cement hued A-line skirts, steely suits and red pouty lips, dusky swing coats and racy

Gray lends itself perfectly to evening dressing. Lanvin’s use of silk taffeta shrugged off all passé ‘80s connotations – the label’s frothy prom dress with asymmetrical hemlines is one of the most wearable party looks of the season – with their rendition of the modern high school prom crown, a silver floral hair adornment, offering a more elegant way to name check the season’s partiality to the headpiece. Those looking to enjoy the more androgynous side of gray should look to Osman. The brand’s strapless midi-dress is on the right side of simplistic with its ‘90s tones, while Marni’s smoke colored

Through gray, the fall coat has made its comeback. Hader Ackerman’s slate fur overcoat stands out amid the crowd, Maison Martin Margiela’s black PVC coat layered over a white suit creates a tone-on-tone gray, while Unique, the luxury label from TopShop, answered the weekend cover-up question with their cropped boxy jacket. As far as casual goes, Missoni’s knitwear offers the ultimate take on relaxed dressing, without a jean in sight. Thanks to sheer peekaboo panels, Margherita Missoni has managed to transform dark ash into something new, modern and exciting, proving that gray doesn’t need to be proper: its undercut qualities are what make it a joy to wear. 97 A


A fashion _ androgyny

Gender bending By MacKenzie Lewis

Burberry

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It’s hard to pinpoint the exact moment womenswear elements crept into menswear, but it may coincide with the emergence of male leggings. After years of watching women throw real pants to the wind, the call of stretchy, buffet-friendly trousers proved too loud for guys to ignore. Metallic pink “meggings” appeared back in 2009 at John Galliano, and Givenchy’s Riccardo Tisci has repeatedly championed men in tights, sending male models down the runway in leather leggings season after season. It’s only

recently that the look has picked up speed among stars like Justin Bieber. Celebrities can admittedly get away with riskier fashion moves than the rest of us, but Kanye West said he doesn’t care what people think, anyway, when he topped his meggings with a skirt-like Givenchy kilt late last year. Rapper West paired his skirt and meggings with a T-shirt and sneakers, presumably in an effort to maintain some shred of street credibility. There was a time, however, when men took gender bending down to their toes – Ziggy Stardust comes to mind. Back in the ‘70s when David Bowie’s glam rock alter ego was singing about outer space, his look was equal parts male, female and extraterrestrial. Dressed in colorful bodysuits by designer Kansai Yamamoto, Bowie strutted the stage in calf length platform boots. Jordanianborn Rad Hourani is following his lead. The designer, who calls his work “asexual,” has fast become a footwear favorite of men who

©Burberry, Etro, Saint Laurent

Menswear designers look into women’s closets for inspiration

Androgyny is a fashion buzzword that hangs over womenswear collections. At the start of the season, designers like Victoria Beckham and Ralph Lauren showed women looking effortless in neckties, fedora hats and tailored pantsuits. This isn’t a new phenomenon; women have long staked their claim to traditionally masculine looks. Until recently, though, designers seemed to forget that androgyny goes both ways.


Etro

Saint Laurent

like their shoes on the higher side. His unisex collection includes leather boots with open toes and stacked heels, some of which rise 11 centimeters off the ground, and most of which are hard to get your hands on. The first few runs of his shoe collection sold out entirely, including pairs in size 44. But while men’s high heels – or meels, as they’ve predictably been dubbed – may require time spent on a waiting list, some androgynous looks take little more than a comb to perfect. Long hair is back, and backstage at fashion week this season, it’s been increasingly difficult to determine gender among lean, statuesque figures when their backs are turned toward you. Male models at Saint Laurent appeared sporting shoulder length hair, which grazed their feminine-imbued coats as they walked. Decidedly feline coats took the stage at Burberry, and at Etro, men teamed pulledback hair with fur coats and boots.

We’re at a moment when ultra-feminine Anne Hathaway sports a cropped pixie cut and Brad Pitt wears his hair in a ponytail; when actress Tilda Swinton wears a tuxedo on the red carpet and stunning male model Andrej Pejic walks the runway in a wedding gown. This could be a case of trendsetters pushing the envelope, but it could also be the natural evolution of fashion, as history makes its way through another cycle. After all, high heels first appeared on Persian warriors in the ninth century, and tights were originally designed for men on horseback. King Henry VIII of England, who had six wives and a penchant for beheading people, was one of the earliest proponents of meggings. Like West, he wore his with a skirt. Did any of his subjects dare to call him girly? We doubt it. If there’s one thing a skirt is good for, it’s freeing up your legs to deliver a swift but silencing kick, right where it hurts. 99 A


A fashion _ hot stuff

I could fall in love Check out the coolest, most coveted trends from the upcoming fall/winter 2013-14 collections

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Marc Jacobs

Prada

Stella McCartney

Prada

Stella McCartney

Saint Laurent

Paul & Joe

Paul & Joe

Sexy and messy


Bottega Veneta

Michael Kors

Dsquared2

Oscar de la Renta

Gucci

Victoria Beckham

Dior

Elie Saab

Michael Kors

Jil Sander

Sci-fi elegance

Vintage drama

101 A


A 102

Dior

ChloĂŠ

Victoria Beckham

Fendi

Dolce & Gabbana

Bottega Veneta

Gucci

Bottega Veneta

Tory Burch

Prada

Stella McCartney

Roberto Cavalli

A fashion _ hot stuff

Dark to bright: key color codes


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miu miu

Chloé

Diane von Furstenberg

Guy Laroche

Stella McCartney

Badgley Mischka

Céline

Fendi

Dries Van Noten

Dior


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Moschino

Stella McCartney

Saint Laurent

Etro

CĂŠline

Badgley Mischka

Dolce & Gabbana

Michael Kors

Prada

Dior

Antonio Berardi

A fashion _ hot stuff

London tweeds

Edinburgh tartans


Carven

Dolce & Gabbana

ChloĂŠ

Gucci

CĂŠline

Fendi

Prada

Jil Sander

Marc Jacobs

Paul & Joe

Burberry Prorsum

Dries Van Noten

Bottega Veneta

Return of the big coat

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A fashion _ accessories

That extra touch you need By Grace Banks

Lanvin

Alexander Wang

Take your pick from fall’s hottest accessories

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If you’re mourning summer’s playful, dreamily charming, fanciful looks, you’re not alone. Who wasn’t seduced by the flirtatious romance of origami florals championed by Chanel or the glamorous side splits of Balenciaga’s frothing skirts, transforming the most die-hard suiting enthusiasts into full voltage sirens? Transitioning into the fall season requires a marriage of the summer aesthetics we’ve grown to love. The best place to start: the accessories from the new collections, each bringing a heady sense of the now into fall/ winter 2013-14’s trends.

Fendi The spring shows saw fur gleefully step up to the mark as not merely December’s texture of choice, but summer’s too. This fall, Fendi’s head accessories designer Silvia Venturini Fendi is fur’s advocate through the label’s monster face fur baguette. This bag is what statement dressing is all about. Suggested Fraggle Rock connotations are pure hehe, but don’t let that stop you diving straight in – amid severe angles and modernist color palettes, a bit of comedy goes a long way this season

©Balmain, Dolce & Gabbana, Emporio Armani, Fendi, Lanvin, Alexander Wang

Fendi


Balmain

Dolce & Gabbana

Emporio Armani Picture the scene: it’s Brassaï’s Paris and a group of riotous flappers are making their way along the Seine. Skip forward to 2012, and the energy of F. Scott Fitzgerald and Gertrude Stein’s roaring ‘20s has returned, introduced by Emporio Armani’s jazz age velvet and fur hat. In true flapper style, a dazzling ornate brooch fastening promises to deliver a dose of elegant rebellion. Lanvin Alber Elbaz’s monosyllabic slogan COOL and HOT necklaces satirically tap into fashion bloggers’ love for exclaiming in text speak on Instagram and Twitter. On the catwalk,

Emporio Armani

the mood was more is more, and models were adorned with layer upon layer of jewelry. Of course these diamond and pearl sayings are easily applied to Elbaz’s very own Lanvin fall/winter 2013-14 collection – OMG indeed. Alexander Wang If there was ever someone to look after the needs of both your more refined taste in fashion, and your shoes, it would be Alexander Wang. His black peep toe sling backs are a sharp rendering of fall’s take on the minimalism of ‘80s New York, but a cow skin finish brings this look straight into 2013.

Balmain Balmain’s Olivier Rousteing dug up an age of pomp and debauchery with his shoulder duster chandelier earrings. Anything but tame, these gems evoke the new season’s penchant for the historical, and the glamorous treasure troves of centuries past. Dolce & Gabbana Dolce & Gabbana’s Byzantine jeweled crown is the flagship accessory of their fall/winter 2013-14 collection. Name check Courtney Love’s tiara era, and wear with unfaltering attitude, shaking up the princess that’s simmering deep within you. Love herself said, “And the sky was made of amethyst.” A 107


A fashion _ footwear

By Brent Gregston

Walk, don’t run, in a pair of Camper shoes A 108

The results are often whimsical. Sometimes left and right shoes purposefully don’t even match, so you wear two unique pieces, one with extra motifs, for example, or poetry inscribed on the sole. But all Camper shoes have one thing in common: they’re made for walking. Although Camper designs shoes for urban people, its roots are in rural Spain. It is a family business, run from an estate on the island of Mallorca. Fluxá’s greatgrandfather opened Spain’s first shoe factory nearby, in 1877. The name of the brand, launched in 1975, comes from camperol, a Catalan word for farmer. “Our

©Camper

Walking society

Spanish company Camper makes footwear for people who appreciate the simple joy of walking. The shoes, sandals and boots are built to be comfortable and last for years. It is also arguably the coolest shoe company on earth. Members of the happy feet cult include celebrities like Woody Allen, Nicole Kidman and Philippe Starck. But Camper is not really about fashion, insists 38-year-old CEO Miguel Fluxá. Many of the designs are classics, reproduced year after year, with only subtle changes. “Design is the DNA of the brand,” he says. Camper hires some of the world’s most talented designers to use their imagination on materials like natural rubber, canvas and rope, as well as buttery soft leather.


“We work with people whose work we admire and think they can add something new to the brand and at the same time share some values. They can be very different in style; we like diversity,” says Fluxá. German designer Willhelm has come up with two-tone cowboy boots for women in thick calfskin suede and a monochrome version of Himalaya, a mid-ankle suede sneaker combining a zigzag outsole and a massive Velcro strap. Earlier versions come in outrageous color combinations. “It’s a crazy design,” admits Fluxá, “but these are still comfortable shoes. They are becoming a sort of icon for us.” Capara was founded in Antwerp, Belgium in 2009 by sisters Vera and Olivera Capara. For their first collaboration with Camper, they designed curving silhouettes of Italian leather and natural rubber. A delicate outer sole “functions almost like a vase,” according to Olivera Capara. “It’s a protected place to put something precious, like a woman’s foot.” Designing shoes for Camper, she adds, “was like designing shoes for myself because I want shoes that I can walk in. There’s nothing worse than beautiful shoes that are uncomfortable.”

first shoe, the Camaleon, was inspired by a Mallorcan peasant shoe, made out of used tires, waste leather and canvas from carriages,” explains Fluxá. Mallorca is the Camper laboratory for prototyping and testing new ideas. Many of those ideas reflect a concern for protecting its rural Mediterranean heritage – Camper received the first “eco” label for shoes in the European Union. All together now Camper Together is the model of collaboration between Camper and leading industrial and fashion designers. This year’s fall/winter collection (2013-14) brings together the work of Bernhard Willhelm, Romain Kremer, the Capara sisters, Japan’s mintdesigns and the Danish textile company Kvadrat.

Kremer, the young creative director of menswear at Thierry Mugler, designs “Urban-Hybrid” shoes for Camper that are, by kinky designer intuition, a cross between urban and sportswear. “Wearing them is for every aspect of the day: it could be for work, for the weekend, for the evening. The idea is that if you have to take one pair of shoes in your luggage, this is it,” explains Kremer. Hokuto Katsui and Nao Yagi are the design duo behind mintdesigns and recent winners of Japan’s Mainichi Fashion Award. They say their shoes are inspired by a “Walking with Chairs” concept that sees similarities between chair design and Camper shoes – in terms of comfort, but also in the use of materials such as leather, wood and fabrics. Unlike chairs, of course, they’re made for walking. “The safest and cheapest vehicles possible,” says the Camper motto, “are comfortable shoes.” 109 A


A fashion _ trends

Pastel polish and a big bang Dior

Dolce & Gabbana

Dior Fendi CĂŠline Burberry

Dior Burberry

Saint Laurent

CĂŠline Carven

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miu miu


Céline

Etro Stella McCartney

McQ by Alexander McQueen Dolce & Gabbana

Delfina Delettrez

Saint Laurent

Marc Jacobs

miu miu Gucci

Chloé Jil Sander

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A fashion _ heartbreaker

Mysterious times

ŠCartier

Considered by watch connoisseurs to be one of the best new releases from Cartier, the Rotonde de Cartier Mysterious Hours is an elegant men’s timepiece that comes in either pink or white gold. The white dial features a silver open-work grill and black transferred Roman numerals. Price tag: LL94,500,000. Available at Cartier in Downtown Beirut.

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Fashion Castaways Memoirs of a geisha Secretary


Castaways Photographers Jimmy Backius Stylist Amelianna Loiacono Location Raouche, Lebanon


She’s wearing Céline pants and a Balenciaga bra. He’s in a Prada shirt, Fendi pants and Gucci belt



His total outfit is by Alexander McQueen



He’s wearing a Diesel shirt and Prada shorts. She’s in a miu miu bra, Chloé shorts and Bottega Veneta sunglasses


He’s in a Prada top and Gucci pants




This page She’s in a Balenciaga bra Opposite page He’s wearing a Burberry Prorsum shirt and Marc by Marc Jacobs shorts



She’s in a Stella McCartney dress. He’s in a Dolce & Gabbana shirt and Prada pants


He’s wearing a Dsquared2 hat and Swim-Ology shorts




He’s in a Fendi shirt and Bottega Veneta pants. She’s wearing a miu miu dress


This page He’s wearing a Dsquared 2 hat Opposite page Her total outfit is by Dolce & Gabbana He’s in a Dolce & Gabbana shirt and Prada shorts and belt. Available at Aïshti stores. Hair and makeup Theresa Grundin at Mikas Male model Patrick O’Donnell at Models 1 Female model Mandy de Wolff at Paparazzi Model Management



Memoirs of a geisha Photographer Ilaria Orsini Stylist Amelianna Loiacono Location Tokyo


She’s in a Pucci dress and Sharra Pagano earrings


She’s wearing a P.A.R.O.S.H jumpsuit




This page She’s in a dress and shoes, both by Prada, and Sharra Pagano earrings Opposite page Her total look is by Dolce & Gabbana



She’s wearing a Maison Martin Margiela kimono and a Sharra Pagano necklace



This page She’s in a Tory Burch top, Tory Burch skirt, Bottega Veneta shoes and Sharra Pagano earrings Opposite page She’s in a Jo No Fui dress, P.A.R.O.S.H belt and Roberto Cavalli earrings


This page She’s in a Prada dress and Sharra Pagano earrings Opposite page She’s in a Fendi dress and Le Silla shoes. Her bag is by Roberto Cavalli



Her dress and clutch are both by Bottega Veneta. Her ring is Roberto Cavalli



This page She’s wearing a Fausto Puglisi kimono and Le Silla shoes Opposite page She’s in an outfit by Dsquared 2



She’s wearing a Michael Kors dress. Available at Aïshti stores. Hair YUUK Makeup Fusako Okuno Model Sasha Melnychuk at Why Not Model Management



Secretary Photographer Alice Rosati Stylist Amelianna Loiacono Location An-Nahar, Beirut


She’s wearing a jacket, skirt and belt, all by Gucci. Her shoes are by Prada



She’s in a top and skirt, both by Tory Burch. Her bag is by Maison Martin Margiela



She’s in a Dolce & Gabbana top and skirt, Maison Martin Margiela eyeglasses, Le Silla shoes and Agent Provocateur stockings


This page She’s in a Burberry dress and Prada shoes Opposite page She’s in a top and pants, both by Maison Martin Margiela, and Prada shoes




Her total outfit is by Marni



This page She’s in a Prada dress and Gucci shoes. Her eyeglasses are vintage Opposite page She’s wearing a Moschino dress



She’s in a Dolce & Gabbana skirt, Prada shoes, Maison Martin Margiela eyeglasses and vintage bra. Her bag is by Marni


This page She’s wearing a Fendi dress and Dsquared 2 shoes. Her bag is by Fendi Opposite page She’s in a Dsquared 2 top and skirt and Gucci gloves. Her bag is by Marni




She’s in a Tibi dress and Dsquared2 shoes. Her bag is by Fendi. Available at Aïshti stores. Hair and makeup Mary Cesardi at Atomo Management Model Denisa at Elite Barcelona



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WWW.AISHTIBLOG.COM


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A beauty _ men’s skincare

Best of the basics By Charlotte Colquhoun

Simple skincare solutions for men

LabSeries BB creams have transformed the face of female beauty, and are set to revolutionize the way men care for their skin too. For the non-indoctrinated, these blemish balms were initially formulated for post-laser surgery patients, with the aim of combining genuine benefits for the skin with the coverage of a foundation. BB creams craftily avoid the makeup moniker, yet the subtle inclusion of pigments enhances all that is good, and hopefully conceals all that isn’t. The added SPF should help halt the ravages of time A 176

too. LabSeries BB Tinted Moisturizer SPF 35 comes in suitably macho packaging. Kyoku Nothing ages more than tired eyes, with bags looking like you’ve packed for the long haul. As the skin under the peepers has the unenviable boast of being the thinnest of anywhere on the body, it surely deserves a little dedicated TLC. The Eye Fuel from Kyoku (they of the claim “By Men For Men”) unites an uplifting eye gel, to refresh and remove puffiness, with an eye radiance cream, which works on the prevention of dark circles. Jack Black A lip balm isn’t the most obvious grooming essential for most men, but ask the ladies and they’ll swear naught makes a man less kissable than cracked, neglected lips. Polish your pout with Jack Black’s splendid, lemonflavored lip balm, with no artificial fragrance or colorant. Designed first and foremost as a hard-grafting product, the SPF 25 protects lips on the sidewalk or at the beach.

©Jack Black, Clarins, Corbis, Kyoku, LabSeries

Clarins If you’re more a soap and water kind of chap then you’ll need serious convincing to move away from the bar and toward a product entailing extra “hassle.” Clarins Men Active Face Wash involves no additional disruption than simply squeezing a dose of the foaming and detoxing cleanser from a tube. On the plus side, your face should be considerably cleaner from the pores out, rather than just on the surface. Without the harsh drying effects of soap, skin’s natural balance is maintained.


Available in Aïshti Downtown, Aïshti Seaside, Aïshti Verdun, Aïzone ABC Ashrafieh, Aïzone City Mall, Aïzone Beirut Souks, Aïzone ABC Dbaye, +961.1.991111, Dubai, Mall of the Emirates +971.4.3479333, Dubai Mall +971.4.3306442, Mirdiff City Center +971.4.2843007, Jordan, City Mall +962 65815670, Kuwait, The Avenues Mall +965 22598016


A beauty _ treatment

Facial opulence An exclusive and luxurious skin treatment at New York’s Chatwal hotel

chief creative officer for Elizabeth Arden Red Door Spa, returned to the spa after nearly a decade to launch The Chatwal’s exclusive facial. The treatment will cost you above $1,000 – and it’s well worth the money.

This star treatment is the amazing (and very expensive) Red Door Grand Debut Facial by Cornelia. Beauty legend Cornelia Zicu, global

Every step of the treatment is tailored to each guest’s specific skincare needs and concerns. Based on Zicu’s expert skincare evaluation

“For the last several years, my current position has been outside the treatment room, where I have focused on reining in top talent, new spa treatments and technologies from around the world,” says Zicu. “Now I am embarking on a new journey to accomplish what I’ve been unable to do from the front office – to provide Red Door guests with an unparalleled spa experience using my hands, my knowledge and my heart.” Visit thechatwalny.com/Spa-Fitness

©Getty Images

Spa aficionados take note: the prestigious Elizabeth Arden Red Door Spa recently opened a new space inside New York’s luxurious Chatwal hotel, complete with a new treatment that’s set to revolutionize the spagoing experience.

The Red Door Grand Debut Facial is a twohour skincare renewal and transcendental treatment performed by Zicu herself and supplemented with a top Elizabeth Arden Red Door Spa technician who handles the deep cleansing, exfoliation, massage treatment and skincare therapy of the body. Zicu’s facial treatment works twofold to dramatically boost collagen and circulation, and slow down the aging process to restore the skin to a youthful state.

and analysis, each guest is prescribed Elizabeth Arden skincare products that are paired with Zicu’s own secret beauty formulas. In addition to a specialized product selection, Zicu applies the newest technologies, machines, materials and science to accomplish results that have yet to be seen by any other in the beauty industry.

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A beauty _ fragrances

Uncommon scent

The world of unisex fragrances holds intriguing opportunities

By Charlotte Colquhoun

Diptyque

Tom Ford

It takes a brave man to offer a rose-based concoction for a man, and in Café Rose, Tom Ford’s confidence shines through. Saffron and black pepper add the spice, while incense, sandalwood and patchouli bring dark glamour.

LÕ Artisan Parfumeur

L’Artisan Parfumeur’s Traversée du Bosphore is an oriental fairy tale fitting of its exotic muse, Istanbul. The fusion of East and West marries crisp apple with tulip, tobacco to scented iris, sweet rose with pistachio, and is deepened with rich leather notes.

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Creed

Light and lively, Erolfa packs a powerful citrus punch. From the family-owned house of Creed, it’s a personal ode to the Mediterranean, with bergamot, herbal notes and complex marine ambergris vying for attention.

Acqua di Parma

A theatrical scent from renowned parfumeur Acqua di Parma, Colonia Intensa Oud is an invitation to the sensual Middle East, revitalizing the classic Colonia Intensa through the drama of agarwood oil. Unisex this may be, but it certainly is a seriously manly choice.

©Acqua di Parma, L’Artisan Parfumeur, Bond No. 9, Creed, Diptyque, Tom Ford

Bond No. 9

New York Musk is a snappy little number from Bond No. 9 and everything one would expect from a New Yorker: good-looking yet with a tough and mysterious edge; fruity and floral with sophisticated and spicy undertones.

Intensity is at the heart of the Diptyque philosophy – the house that normally foregoes conceptual creations for naturally inspired fragrances. L’Eau du 34, based on chypre, is a revision of 34 Boulevard Saint Germain, which was created to honor the location of its first boutique.


7 For All Mankind store, Beirut Souks, Souk El Tawileh Also available at all A誰zone stores in Beirut, Dubai, Amman

7forallmankind.com

31/07/13 11.05

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A beauty _ must-haves

A royal luster

Take your cue from Dolce & Gabbana’s runway look

1. Lanc™ me Color Palette Sculpted Eyes, Gris Fumé

2. 1.

2. Saint Laurent The Black Eyeliner 3. Saint Laurent Glossy Lip Stain, Rose Baby Doll

5. 4.

4. Dior Nude Tan Iridescent Blush and Bronzing Powder No. 2, Coral Glow

3.

9. 6.

5. Clarins BB Skin Perfecting Cream No. 3 6. Chanel Volume Mascara No. 10, Noir

7.

8.

8. Lanc™ me Kôhl Hypnôse Waterproof Eyeliner No. 1, Noir 9. Dior Shine and Shape Top Coat Gel

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©IMAXtree, Dolce & Gabbana, Tsar

7. Chanel Precision Lip Definer No. 3, Roux Sienna



A celebrity _ ceo

English sole By MacKenzie Lewis

Boot maker John Lobb brings a special brand of luxury to Beirut

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As the first John Lobb boutique opens in Lebanon, Renaud Paul-Dauphin, the brand’s CEO, shows A magazine that when it comes to shoes, men get what they pay for.

years of planning. Having said that, I’m very happy we did. The Lebanese customer is not new; we have Lebanese customers in our stores all over the world.

Q What can you tell us about the origins of the brand? A In short, it’s based on the craftsmanship and the savoir-faire of John Lobb, the English boot maker who started the company in 1866. The English heritage is very important, but at the same time it fits perfectly within the world of fashion today, especially where London is growing as the capital of men’s fashion.

Q Your average client is mature. Is the trend toward smarter dressing attracting a younger market? A Absolutely. With the development of social media, those young customers are also pushing us. We have a new patent shoe coming this fall. It’s going to be something hot for young, fashion-forward people, and not just with a tuxedo. The brand is serious, but it lends itself to a bit of twisting.

Q John Lobb has strong English roots. Why did now seem like the right time to open a shop in Beirut? A As you can imagine, to open today took

Q Speaking of twisting, you recently collaborated with Aston Martin and Paul Smith. Why did those two seem like the right partnerships?

©John Lobb

Renaud Paul-Dauphin, CEO of John Lobb


A The brands have nothing in common, but both are British icons in their respective fields. The Paul Smith partnership is really a question of inviting Sir Paul to play with John Lobb – twisting the colors, the leathers. We see it as an ongoing collaboration, Paul Smith with John Lobb. For Aston Martin, we say John Lobb for Aston Martin. That distinction is meaningful because here we created a product from scratch for Aston Martin drivers. It’s an extremely comfortable and beautiful shoe that has the technicalities of a driving shoe. Q Would John Lobb ever expand to women’s shoes? A Not as long as I’m on board! Anytime we have bespoke requests for ladies, I can see my people in the workshop getting nervous. You can say, oh yeah, we do shoes. But sorry, it’s not the same thing. We’re a men’s brand; we must stay a men’s brand. However, the eye of the woman is very important, and the attention women pay to men’s shoes is growing. Q How is a pair of John Lobb shoes born? A It’s a long and meticulous process summarized in 190 different steps. It takes about 10 hours of working time, over 10

days. For made-to-measure, it’s 300 gestures and about 50 hours. The price tag isn’t a marketing thing. Every single customer who has been in the workshop says, “Oh, now I understand why it has this price.” Q How big is the bespoke element of the brand? A Thirty years ago there were no ready-to-wear collections, only bespoke. But even though it’s the roots of the company, let’s face it; today it’s a niche market. Q Have you ever had any unusual requests? A At the moment, we have a gentleman who wants a leather replica of his girlfriend’s lips stitched on a pair of shoes. So we have this loafer with big lips on them! We don’t typically drive this type of request. Everything we do has meaning in terms of functionality – why we do a laceup instead of a buckle, or why the heel is the way it is. Q What can we look forward to for fall? A The Beirut store is the first one to have neckties, and in the winter we’ll have gloves, as well. It’s a little salt and pepper, to give it a bit more flavor. But we’re going to stay focused on being the boot maker. It’s what we are. 185 A


ŠJoe Kesrouani

A celebrity _ profile

A 186


Fashion and the digital world By Pip Usher

Omar Christidis talks about ArabNet and its new creative sector

Halfway through my interview with Omar Christidis, founder of ArabNet, I find myself watching a YouTube video of him performing a four-part harmony. Three clones fill the screen, each dressed in white tie and tails, swaying slightly as they deliver the poignant melodies of an American folk song. Excitedly explaining the concept, Christidis describes how he recorded himself singing each part then filmed three corresponding videos, before overlaying and synching the video tracks with the audio tracks to create one polished piece. Once complete, he projected the video while he sang the fourth part live in concert – dressed, of course, in the ubiquitous white tie and tails – an unnerving, intriguing example of technology reinventing tradition. Christidis is a melting pot of influences, of mixed Palestinian, Syrian, Greek and Armenian descent. He was raised in Lebanon by parents who met while studying at the American University of Beirut. After completing his studies at Yale, Christidis

pursued the dream of many young graduates and moved to New York to work in wealth management. Thriving on the opportunities that the city offered to swarms of young, idealistic graduates, he also grew vegetables, sang 16th-century choral music and joined a music band. But he was tired of pushing money around and offering hollow advice. As he explains: “I had a really full life, but my career sucked.” Two years later, he returned to Lebanon. As he searched for a job in the digital sector, he became aware of a disconnect between businesses and entrepreneurs in the Arab World. There was young talent, and there were investors with capital, but there was a gaping chasm between the two without the infrastructure to allow interaction. And so ArabNet was created, an annual tech event in the Middle East that enables young entrepreneurs, investors and industry leaders to showcase their business ideas and debate digital growth. The first event became a global trending topic on Twitter. By

2012, it was inviting international media interest as a symbol of the Arab World’s evolution into a region that had overlooked its broken systems in favor of “positive change through social entrepreneurship and business.” Christidis, keen to explore every aspect of digital’s ramifications on business, focused ArabNet 2013 around the rapidly changing creative sectors. With the boom of online comes a host of challenges – and opportunities – that fashion brands are being forced to confront as they enter a new age of retail. Luxury brands in particular, accustomed to a oneway monologue with a niche audience, are now exploring the more democratic realms of branded content, as they build their identity through creative, highly interactive campaigns. Like Christidis’ four-piece harmony, digital has forcefully transformed even the most traditional fashion houses into businesses built around an ongoing, online conversation with an audience that reaches beyond their elite clientele. 187 A


A celebrity _ art director

Democratic art By Marwan Naaman

Jennifer Flay dreams of a world where art is always within reach

Born and raised in New Zealand, and a Paris resident for over 30 years, Flay is the art director of France’s prestigious Foire Internationale d’Art Contemporain (FIAC). She’s held this post since 2003 and is widely credited for the international success now enjoyed by the Parisian art fair. Last May, Flay was in Beirut to attend Home Works 6, the superlative Lebanese artistic fair curated by Christine Tohme and taking place under the Ashkal Alwan umbrella. Though this was A 188

Flay’s first trip to Lebanon, she was clearly well informed about the Lebanese art scene and was also well acquainted with many of the local gallerists and art collectors, including Sandra Dagher from Beirut Art Center, Naila KettanehKunigk, Andrée Sfeir-Semler and Aïshti’s Tony Salamé. In fact, during her Beirut stay, she made it a point to visit the three aforementioned women’s art spaces, as well as the site of the upcoming Aïshti Foundation on the Jal el Dib coastline, just north of Beirut. Now under construction, the Aïshti Foundation is Salamé’s grand vision of a sleek, sophisticated art space, as designed by British architect David Adjaye. Once completed, this major contemporary art gallery will be the most important space of its kind in the Middle East.

“This is my first visit to Lebanon but I had 1,001 reasons to come,” Flay said. “I have good Lebanese friends, and I’m discovering a lot of art and a lot of talent.” Among local artists, Flay said she particularly appreciated the work of art duo Joana Hadjithomas and Khalil Joreige, and that of Beirutborn Palestinian artist Adbul Rahman Katanani. During her visit, Flay also made it a point to visit Saleh Barakat’s Agial and Lea Sednaoui’s The Running Horse, two galleries that have been instrumental in launching local artists. “It’s important to meet young gallerists and those who represent young artists,” she said. At the center of Flay’s vision is the conviction that art, in its

essence, is for everyone. Her support for democratic culture has seen her create artistic and cultural events during FIAC that are open to the public and always free, in such places as the Jardin des Tuileries, the Place Vendôme and the Louvre. Her belief that art is democratic and that it should be enjoyed by people from all walks of life perhaps explains why she was so taken with the Aïshti Foundation, which is scheduled to open in 2014. “The Aïshti Foundation is a magnificent project for the entire world,” Flay said after her visit to the construction site. “There’s a new, dynamic, intense art movement in Lebanon,” she added, “and this is the moment to come to meet Lebanon’s art movers.”

©Xavier Cariou

Jennifer Flay is one of the leading lights of the contemporary art scene. Though she’s not an artist, she’s an international authority on all things artistic, and perhaps the person most in tune to the art world’s beating pulse.


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A celebrity _ interview

The taste gonzo By Shirine Saad

When Steve Hindy was sent to the Middle East as a Beirutbased correspondent for the Associated Press (AP), he came face to face with civil wars, coup d’états and the daily fear of losing his life. He covered the Iranian revolution under showers of grenades and was abducted in Southern Lebanon one month before the birth of his son Sam. Despite the constant pressure of Middle Eastern living, he did manage to find moments of reprieve. A case in point: while in Cairo, Hindy began brewing beer with his friend Jim Hastings, a diplomat who had learned

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the tricks of the trade while in Saudi Arabia, where alcohol is banned, using malt extracts, hops and yeast received through diplomatic mail. When Hindy was offered his next contract with AP in Manila in 1984, his wife Ellen fiercely objected, exhausted by years of constant worry. The family moved back to the United States and settled in Park Slope, Brooklyn. Hindy took a job as Assistant Foreign Editor of Newsday, where he and his colleagues drank the beer he crafted with a newly acquired brewing kit when the boss was not around. The young

man decided to start his own brewing business, teaming up with his neighbor, banker Tom Potter. They studied the history of brewing in Brooklyn, which had historically been a major center for beer, home to over 28 breweries – and 10 percent of America’s production – until the city’s valued pure water became polluted. Moving into a former brewery in Bushwick, Hindy and his partner began producing their beers in 1988. They called the company Brooklyn Brewery, against most people’s advice – an intuition that became a major part of their success. Their label was created

©Steve Hindy

Meet Steve Hindy, the visionary owner of Brooklyn Brewery


by Milton Glaser, the visionary designer of the I (heart) New York logo. Their first beer, Brooklyn Lager, was crafted by German-American brewmaster William Moeller.

Brooklyn East India Pale Ale and Brooklyn Pennant Ale ’55. His beers have won many national and international awards and are sought after from Stockholm to Paris and Tokyo.

Of course, Brooklyn came with its own dangers – crack dealers, armed robberies and rampant crime – but Hindy had seen worse before and was determined to thrive throughout the challenges. In 1994, the owners hired brewmaster Garrett Oliver; two years later, Mayor Rudy Giuliani cut the ribbon to open the new brewery in Williamsburg and poured the first beer, a Bavarian-style wheat beer known as Brooklyner Weisse. Oliver continued to make new inventive brews, including Brooklyn Black Chocolate Stout,

“What I like about beer,” Hindy says, “is the sense of conviviality and community that it fosters. It really helps people relax and relate to each other. We all have that hole in our soul and some people fill it with religion, for example. It’s the mystery of life: why are we here? Why do we have to die? But when you have a beer, it dispels your fears. There’s another quote I love, from Brillat Savarin: ‘Mankind, the animal that fears the future and craves alcoholic beverages.’ That, to me, is what’s beautiful about beer.” 191 A


A celebrity _ writer

A man beyond Beirut

By Pip Usher

When Nasri Atallah and I meet for the first time, he derails the interview. Under the scorching Beirut sun, we sip iced drinks and discuss life’s most important topics: books, family, nomadic needs and the distasteful pursuits of bankers. Two hours later, I realize that I haven’t jotted down a single note – and my drink is dry. But that’s the thing about Atallah; he’s good at talking. If you had to get stuck in an elevator, as is inclined to happen in Lebanon, he’d be an ideal companion with whom to swap anecdotes as you wait to be rescued. Atallah has built a career upon conversation. He first edged into Lebanon’s public consciousness with Our Man in Beirut, his bitingly humorous, occasionally scathing blog on life in the capital. After a childhood in England and a disastrous foray into wealth management for a Swiss bank, he returned to Beirut

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at 26, “for no real reason beyond the fact that [his] parents were there and it struck [him] as a better (and cheaper) place to be unemployed.” Disillusioned and deep in credit card debt, he began his blog as a way of dealing with his newfound literary ambition and ended in a book deal. “It gave me the push I needed to do something meaningful with my life,” he says. Since leaving Lebanon, the blog has ended. Now a resident of Paris, Atallah “doesn’t allow himself to comment on the city.” Besides, he has his hands full. He’s started his second book, a “revenge fantasy about the decadence of London in the mid to late oughts.” He is “friend, colleague, roadie, manager, drinking buddy” to the Wanton Bishops, a Lebanese blues and garage rock revival band that compared their explosive sound to a “Mississippi swamp alligator raping Queen

Elizabeth,” and will be touring with them later in the year. And he has founded his own publishing company, Gate 37, which will weave together his fascination with digital, social media and video production. The blog’s success has propelled his life forward as he explores the type of opportunities that seem to effortlessly appear when one is doing something with true conviction. I ask Atallah what his plans are for the next couple of years. With so many projects pulling him around the world, the question is futile – how can one man take on any more? But, in a response that reflects his trademark “curmudgeonly humor,” he replies, deadpan: “I plan on joining an Uzbek contemporary dance troupe, doing some pottery and becoming a vegan.” He pauses for a second. “And lying more in interviews.”

©Yann Traboulsi

Nasri Atallah and life after blogging



Advertorial

The gaTekeeper Pascal Mouawad talks about the Mouawad legacy Q Tell us a bit about Mouawad’s history as a jeweler. A Mouawad is a 123-year-old, family-run business that spans four generations. My great grandfather David started the business, left Lebanon for the United States and Mexico, became a watchmaker, and then came back to start his own workshop. My grandfather Fayez wanted to expand the business, so he moved to Saudi Arabia in the early ‘30s. Eventually, he became the jeweler to the royal family. In the last 45 years, my father, Robert, took the business from a two-store operation to a multinational company across three continents, making the brand what it is today. Q And now you and your brothers, Alain and Fred, are at the helm? A My father decided to retire and hand over the reins of the company to his sons in 2010. Our job is to be the guardians of the brand and to take the company to the next level. Q What are some of the benefits of being the fourth generation of a company like Mouawad? A We are fortunate to have a long-standing history. In today’s market, starting your own jewelry company is a difficult and expensive exercise. The barriers to entry are high; still it takes decades to build a desirable strong brand. Mouawad enjoys a worldwide reputation as a prestigious brand and each of the four generations of the company have had distinctive traits that added value to the business in their own individual way. So this a good starting point for us as the new Co-Guardians—to ensure the legacy while contributing to the further development of the company and reach new and important milestones. Q Mouawad holds four Guinness World Records. Why are world records important to you? A Mouawad has clients who seek out the best and most exclusive products. The Victoria Secret Very Sexy Fantasy Bra [$11 million] was more of a PR coup than an item that we believed would sell. The collaboration with this giant retailer gave us a lot of exposure globally. In 1990, we acquired the most expensive diamond in the world [$12.76 million] and later sold it. Recently, we introduced the L’Incomparable Diamond Necklace [$55 million], which features the largest flawless diamond in the world, at a weight of 407.48 carats. We’re confident that this necklace will eventually sell. Q You must have quite a trustworthy team working on these pieces. A We have a solid loyal team of craftsmen who specialize in high-end jewelry and have become accustomed to working with very high value items. When a very important gemstone enters the factory, we make the team aware to be extra careful in its handling.


Q Who are your clients? A Mouawad has a wide range of clients. For our haute joaillerie category of product, they are mostly members of wealthy merchant families, Royals, Sultans and VVIPs. For our boutique range, we cater to the upper middle class. Q And celebrities? A It is a part of our marketing strategy to dress celebrities for different occasions, whether in Beirut, Dubai, Cannes, Bollywood or Hollywood. Actress and Academy Award nominee, Amy Adams wore our diamonds to this year’s Oscar’s, and Uma Thurman and Chinese actress Zhang Ziyi wore them at Cannes. Celebrities gravitate toward our jewelry because our creations enhance their looks for important occasions. Q What is Mouawad working on now? A We are continuing to roll out stores with our new look. In the past our stores were intimidating; people were reluctant to walk into them because they thought if they didn’t have a lot of money, they couldn’t really afford anything. We have now brought affordable luxury to the market, with new boutique items ranging in price from $1,500 to $15,000. And we recently introduced the Mouawad Genève Swiss Watch Line, the first watches we’ve produced that bear the Mouawad signature. Q With the rise of time-telling cell phones and iPads, why was now the right time to go into fine watches? A A fine timepiece is a status symbol. While our clients could look at their iPads or cell phones for time, they find pleasure in reading the time on a beautiful Mouawad watch.




A design _ architecture

Of stars and stripes By J. Michael Welton

In Virginia and North Carolina, three new structures reflect the changing relationship between architects and their clients. A chapel, a memorial and an office space showcase modern American architectural values, while reflecting the individual needs of each customer. Center for Architecture and Design At the new Center for Architecture and Design in Raleigh, North Carolina, architect Frank Harmon has redefined the meaning of the client/architect relationship. First, his firm won the 2007 juried design competition sponsored by the North Carolina chapter of the American Institute of Architects (AIA). Then architect and client broke ground in winter 2009, at midnight during the recession, when very few others were taking the risk to build anywhere. Now that it’s finished, Harmon has moved his staff of four into the top floor, leasing

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space that he designed from the client that commissioned it. “An architect needs to stand behind his work,” he reasons. “And it’s good for the AIA – it adds to their revenue stream.” The four-story, 12,000 square-foot structure is dedicated to the concepts of sustainability and sensitivity in the heart of downtown Raleigh, the capital of the state. Its style is modern, but not classically so. It harkens back to traditional North Carolina forms without slavishly mimicking them. Instead, it reinterprets porch and terrace to make the most of a site whose shape Harmon likens to that of a pork chop. “It’s meant to show evidence of the power of architecture to transform our towns and cities,” Harmon says. It’s a graceful little building that’s a modest response to a series of monolithic state structures on the legislative

©Franck Harmon, SMBW Architects

Three sleek examples of contemporary American architecture


plaza across the street. In a distinctly Southern vernacular, it’s also a structure that politely minds its manners, recalling precisely where it came from, while deftly turning a slim shoulder to its neighbors. It’s an ode in zinc and cypress, and an inviting treatise on transparency where others nearby have walled themselves in. Belvedere Gardens Memorial On a pastoral hilltop in rural Virginia, Will Scribner of SMBW Architects has created a metaphor for some of life’s most meaningful passages. Inspired by the Villa Giulia in Rome, it’s sited on five acres at Belvedere Gardens at Sherwood Memorial Park in Salem, Virginia. Scribner’s client has been operating a cemetery there for the past 80 years, adding one mausoleum in the ‘30s and another in the ‘50s, when an amphitheater was also added to create a sense of community.

This page The Belvedere Gardens Memorial in Virginia by SMBW Architects Opposite page Frank Harmon’s Center for Architecture and Design in Raleigh, North Carolina

Scribner’s mausoleum builds upon that concept, while adding 2,500 burial crypts. At the top of a hill, visitors enter a loggia composed of randomly laid fieldstone and granite walls. Punched through the stone on the left are a number of portals – some square, others horizontal bands or vertical slats – offering views to the outside world. A 199


A design _ architecture

The Bishop’s Chapel at Roslyn Retreat in Virginia, by Bartzen + Ball Architects

Eventually, an overhead roof drops down to cover the passageway, compressing the last leg of the 150-foot journey.

A squeeze upward between burial vaults leads to the experiential pièce de résistance: a vast Virginia plain, punctuated by bluetinted Appalachian Mountains in the distance. Turn back 180 degrees, and you’ll find the mountains mimicked by grasscovered, cast-in-place concrete lids for the crypts. A Merlin-like Scribner has plunged visitors down into the earth, only to raise them up into a majestic Virginia landscape. “It is a hushed, moving space that people come back to, time and again,” he says. A 200

The BishopÕ s Chapel at Roslyn Retreat The assignment must have seemed modest and breathtaking all at once: design a tiny chapel on 72 acres of tumbling hills overlooking the James River at Roslyn, the retreat center for the Episcopal Diocese of Virginia. And be sure it honors Peter Lee, the outgoing bishop, and his penchant for Carpenter Gothic design. “After two months of looking at photography, topographical maps and site sections, we selected a site that feels like it’s perched on the edge of the earth,” says Tut Bartzen, partner at Bartzen + Ball Architects in Richmond. “It’s able to be part of the center of campus and part of the distant landscape too.” The 3,780-square-foot chapel can be seen from the Willey Bridge a few miles away as commuters make their daily trek, south to north into the city. And as visitors approach Roslyn from River Road, the structure reveals itself in a glimpse that’s quickly obscured by a hill, then finally viewed transparently through glass at either end.

The idea is to use clarity to express the site. “From hearing the bishop talk, we got the idea that it would be okay to be open,” he says. “So we used clear glass for a vista to the landscape behind the altar.” Its footprint is 26 feet by 50 – with a basement below the sanctuary that rises sharply into the sky. Its verticality is scaled back by the warmth and intimacy of the materials used – cypress on the exterior, and cherry-stained pine, Douglas fir and poplar for the inside. Even its minimal, light-steel frame and tension rods are muted in a matte-black paint to minimize their visual impact. The designers dedicated the chapel to daylight, with a minimal number of fixtures mounted atop wood beams inside. Each throws its light upon the ceiling without revealing its location. And at night, they all provide a symbolic point of illumination for this chapel dedicated to a beloved bishop. “It’s like a glowing lantern,” Bartzen says.

©Bartzen+ Ball Architects, Bill Dickinson

It’s a venture down into the ground, designed to reveal what lies beneath the surface – physically and emotionally – while setting the stage for a symbolic transition ahead. Emerging into the sunlight, visitors encounter on their left a curving black granite wall that’s both functional and reflective. It provides shutters for burial vaults, names carved into its surface, while its mirrored finish reveals the visitors’ own faces. Directly ahead, a sheet waterfall feeds its flow to a narrow, man-made stream traversing a grotto sloping farther down on the right. Visitors must step up and cross a bridge to continue along their way. “There’s a sense of passage as you cross the water,” Scribner says. “It’s a symbol of the journey – you’re transformed from one state to another.”


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A design _ profile

Enfant terrible of design By Brent Gregston

Michael Yeung creates futuristic forms out of steel, aluminum and leather The polished steel of Michael Yeung’s Menace Desk seems to spring across the room. The bold form is characteristic of his work. “I am trying to create furniture that is functional art, to push the designs to the limit,” says the Chinese-Canadian designer.

Born in Canada, Yeung currently lives and works in Hong Kong. He graduated from the University of Calgary in 2005, where he studied drawing and sculpture. Shortly afterward, he began his partnership with Timothy Oulton, creative director of the eponymous luxury furniture company. Yeung produced some remarkable pieces for him, including the Mars Chair, which has become a contemporary design icon. His aviator Tomcat Chair, with aerodynamic curves of riveted aluminum,

draws inspiration from the F-14 Tomcat fighter plane. The seat and back are upholstered in soft, vintage leather like a bomber jacket. It won the Most Innovative Product Design at London’s Luxuria Awards in 2010. “The Tomcat Chair was actually a spin-off from the Mars Chair,” he says. “When Tim came to me and asked: ‘can you design a range that revolves around fighter planes?’ I said ‘awesome.’ The Tomcat was modeled after my favorite airplane.” Yeung’s stainless steel Intrepid Dining Table also looks like it could be airborne. “It is kind of a mix between a paper airplane and a Star Wars TIE fighter. I’m inspired a lot by movies like Star Wars.” Yeung launched a furniture collection under his own name in 2011. He is now expanding, introducing more lighting, and sofas. But he intends to go beyond furniture. “I love designing everything,” he says. “I definitely want to design more than just furniture and lights. The ultimate goal would be to design cars, motorbikes and buildings.”

©Michael Yeung

The Menace Desk reflects a masculine obsession with steel. It is “all stainless steel,” he points out. “All handmade. Cut out, shaped, formed then welded together and polished again.” Despite his aesthetic

principles, he insists that comfort and function are important, too. Yeung, who is also a sculptor, is equally obsessed with light. He designs a piece of furniture with a view of how the light will hit it and which shadow it will cast. “It is part of the design itself,” he says. “I love playing around with the light and shadows of all my pieces – especially the ones made out of stainless steel, because light gives the pieces much more depth and dimension. You can tell when you photograph them. If it’s photographed properly, you see the full effect.”

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A design _ trend

Going mural By Marie Le Fort

Let the walls around you come to life

OmarÕ s La Ranita (left)

Miss Ko (left)

Philippe Starck is the force behind the wild interiors of new Parisian restaurant Miss Ko, located on avenue Georges V. Magical, elf-like characters live on the walls, pervading the entire place with a fantastical, surrealist atmosphere. The walls certainly do have eyes! Visit miss-ko.com A 204

Holiday Inn (above)

This isn’t your father’s Holiday Inn. In a bold move, the hotel chain gave free artistic license to artist Tobias Hall to create a unique work for its Camden location. The result is a typographybased mural, highlighting lyrics from three famed Britpop songs. A fitting tribute to the UK town of Camden, the birthplace of Britpop. Visit holidayinncamden.co.uk

©Costata, Holiday Inn, Miss Ko, Neild Avenue, Omar’s La Ranita, Skopik & Lohn

Omar, André Balazs’ former “director of ambience,” recently opened a stylish townhouse restaurant in New York’s West Village. Subtle and elegant, with an Art Deco timelessness to it, the restaurant features a dazzling mural in the back: New York characters, as drawn by artist Ian Sklarsky, form a lively skyline. Visit omar-nyc.com


Costata (left)

Chef Michael White’s new restaurant Costata, located in New York’s Soho, is an Italian steakhouse set amid spectacular surroundings. Avant-garde, Londonbased artist Nasser Azam transformed the walls into virtual explosions of color with his “Performance Painting” projects, developed in extreme working conditions, from zero gravity in Moscow to below zero temperatures in Antarctica. Visit costatanyc.com

Neild Avenue (right)

Set inside a former tire factory in Sydney, restaurant Neild Avenue resembles a halffinished movie set. The walls are covered with colorful canvases created by local artist Stephen Ormandy, who updates the restaurant interior every six months with new works of art to give the space an everchanging identity. Visit eqpg.com.au/neild-avenue

Skopik & Lohn (left)

Steps away from trendy Karmelitermarkt, Vienna restaurant Skopik & Lohn, helmed by well-respected gastronomes Horst Scheuer and Constance Fehle, features a wild, Jackson Pollock-inspired mural that covers all walls and even the ceiling. Otto Zitko’s intense graphic drawings invade the room, exuding a seductive sense of freedom. Visit skopikundlohn.at

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A design _ update

Global design on show Highlights from New York’s International Contemporary Furniture Fair

Orange Void (left)

Claudia Moreira Salles (left)

Brazilian designer Claudia Moreira Salles launched her eponymous book at Espasso in New York. The furniture showroom also served as the setting for the designer’s US solo exhibit, featuring her latest pieces. Visit claudiamoreirasalles.com A 206

Bare Bones (above)

Brooklyn-based creative agency The Principals unveiled a set of concrete dominoes entitled “Bare Bones” for lifestyle brand Billy Reid. To celebrate the release, The Principals and Billy Reid hosted a domino tournament inside the Billy Reid boutique in Manhattan’s Noho neighborhood. Visit theprincipals.us

©Design Within Reach, Gallery R’Pure, Neal Feay, The Principals, Claudia Moreira Salles, Spacecutter

A leader in aluminum design, Neal Feay collaborates with designers and artists to create unique objects. In New York, the design house unveiled Orange Void by Johanna Grawunder. Comprising a square, anodized aluminum frame and radiating a subtle glow that looks more pink than orange in person, this lighting fixture brings to mind the work of artist James Turrell. Visit nealfeay.com


Craft System (right)

The ingenious Craft System lamps, designed by François Chambard, were presented at Gallery R’Pure. “The lamps consist of the multiple variations of a simple shape, showcasing work that transcends the quality of the mass-produced and the quality of the handmade,” says Chambard. “The basic and repetitive tapered Corian shape can take multiple configurations by being combined with different bottom and top handmade attachments,” he adds. Visit galleryrpure.com

Monolith Table (left)

“All too often, the pairing of a dining table with chairs is not fully considered,” says designer Alex Gil, owner of Spacecutter design firm. He therefore conceived Monolith Table as a singular block: when not in use, the chairs are simply tucked underneath the table, leaving a singular eroded mass. The table was eroded using a variety of techniques, including the use of axes, saws, termites and chisels. Visit spacecutter.com

Helix Table (right)

Chris Hardy’s Helix Table collection was introduced by Design Within Reach (DWR) during the International Contemporary Furniture Fair (ICFF). The occasional tables are inspired by DWR’s classic, modern aesthetic, and they’re crafted from glass, walnut and brass. Users are free to personalize the shapes to suit them. Visit dwr.com

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A high art _ portraits

Painting erotic fantasies

Turkish painter Taner Ceylan creates portraits that lay bare society’s taboos

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“Together.” A naked man lying on a dock smiles at his male lover, his pale skin glistening in the cold light. “Spring Time.” A princely Arab draped in a leopard throw, languorously smoking a cigar in front of a tiled wall stamped with the Louis Vuitton logo. “1640.” A nude man in a sarong kneels behind another, drying his furry limbs with a white towel. An eerie sense of déjà vu emanates from these paintings, so vivid and precise they could be photographs. But then these scenarios are so impossible – particularly in the Muslim world – that they become absurd, repulsive or threatening, depending on the viewer’s gaze. There lies the perverse charm of Turkish painter Taner Ceylan, who trained in

classical painting at Mimar Sinan University in Istanbul, in the tradition of the Old Masters. Later discovering the provocative photography of Nan Goldin, who became famous for photographing her drug-addicted and sick friends in the ‘90s, Wolfgang Tillmans, who shoots still lifes and portraits that almost seem accidental, and Terry Richardson, who lustfully captures young girls engaged in erotic scenarios, Ceylan began to paint in a hyper-realistic manner, using crude lighting that resembles daylight, blurring the boundary between painting and photography, reality and representation. “In painting, you’re able to put all your feelings and soul on to the canvas through your hand,” says the artist, whose exhibition

©Taner Ceylan/Paul Kasmin Gallery

By Shirine Saad


at Paul Kasmin Gallery in New York opens on September 18 and runs until October 26. “This is very important for me. This long process in front of the canvas is a life of its own. You must imagine that for three months you are face to face with a person; automatically a relationship develops. And the depth of the space in an oil painting cannot be compared to any other medium in art.” Curator Dan Cameron, who has championed the painter, traces Ceylan’s work back to a tradition of sexually explicit art – from Robert Mapplethorpe to Jeff Koons. “Ceylan makes hyper-realist paintings that bespeak absolute technical mastery and precision,” says Cameron, “but which are also fraught with an emotional and sexual dimension usually absent from the genre – qualities that have set him apart from the prevailing tendencies in contemporary Turkish art, and which at times have also brought him outright abuse in the press.”

This page “Birth of Hope” (left) and “1923” (below), both from the Lost Painting series Opposite page “1881,” also from the Lost Painting series

Ceylan moves from subtly evoking homoeroticism (see the portrait of a bloodied and sweaty boxer) to making overtly sexual references (to enter his website “you must be at least 18 years of age”). As Cameron points out, Celyan’s work is that of “a romantic arguing for the wholesomeness of gay male sexuality.” The artist says he began to paint such scenes without being conscious of their homoerotism; he drew from his imagination, and from the hypersexual advertisements targeted toward heterosexuals. Then he discovered Turkey’s ancient homosexual tradition as well as Orientalist paintings, and added more layers to his work, tweaking pictorial conventions to create a language of his own, where the odalisque is a male and the Pasha is a semi-prostitute. Of course, change is a slow process, but recently with the protest movement that started in Gezi Park, Ceylan is even more inspired. “This unordinary, creative type of protest showed the reality that this young generation can’t be bordered with any ideology,” he says. “Freedom is the only word. These protesters would like to decide how many kids they will have, which movie they are going to watch, if they will drink alcohol or be religious. The time I spend in Gezi Park protests is beyond all ideologies and ideas. It’s the realizing of a utopia. Life has changed from now on.” 209 A


A high art _ space

Artistic landmark By Stephanie Epiro

Art season has gripped Italy and while Venice’s famed Biennial is on show until late autumn, Milan’s contemporary gallery HangarBicocca’s newly launched two-year program is designed to lure modern art lovers further south. The stellar lineup, which stretches until 2015, is a series of unique solo artist exhibitions overseen by HangarBicocca’s new artistic advisor Vicente Todoli, former director of the Tate Modern in London, and curator Andrea Lissoni. Viewing an artist’s complete works in HangarBicocca is an inimitable experience. A 210

Housed in a former train machinery factory, the space is a vast 4,200-square-meter series of open rooms that get larger and eerily darker. “The unique features of HangarBicocca will make each exhibition project quite unparalleled: the encounter between the space and the art, and their coexistence and cohabitation, will augment the potential of both one and the other. It is as though one plus one were three,” says Todoli. Opened nearly a decade ago, HangarBicocca is run by the Pirelli Foundation. Last year it recorded the highest number of visitors to any Italian contemporary art gallery. A cultural standout in a mostly industrial area, HangarBicocca includes a garden installed with Fausto Melotti’s impressive “The Sequence,” a seven-meter-high structure with voids and solids that make it impossible to see it as a whole. The space’s other permanent work resides inside. Appearing like an illustration from a Dr. Seuss book,

“The Seven Heavenly Palaces” by Anselm Kiefer is a set of seven crooked 14-meter-high concrete towers. Their effect is so striking they have to be closed off with expansive black curtains so as not to distract from other exhibitions. Kicking off HangarBicocca’s new calendar is a collection of late American artist Mike Kelley’s work, which runs until September 8. “Eternity is a Long Time” focuses on Kelley’s fluid expression in different art mediums, including installations, sculptures and videos. HangarBicocca’s gigantic space gives his pieces a unique platform. The towering form of astronaut John Glenn fashioned from pieces of crockery and glass resembles a socialist leader statue. Little known work “Profondeurs Vertes” (Green Depths), commissioned by the Louvre in 2006, shows Kelley’s deep connection to art history, while bringing in themes of gender issues that combine two early American paintings from the Detroit Institute of Arts that influenced him as a kid: “Watson and the Shark” by

©Estate of Mike Kelley, Pirelli Foundation

HangarBicocca unveils its new two-year art program


John Singleton Copley and “Recitation” by Thomas Wilmer Dewing, with a soundtrack of women’s poetry from the 1800s. What follows is a lineup of established and emerging artists in keeping with Todoli and Lissoni’s mission to create HangarBicocca as an innovative global contemporary art stage. Icelandic artist Ragnar Kjartansson’s installation “The Visitors” will show from September, followed by “Islands,” a major retrospective of Dieter Roth’s work opening on October 31. The Pirelli Foundation The Pirelli family’s commitment to the Italian arts is a passionate marriage. Its longstanding relationship is on show within the 141-year-old company’s archives, housed in the Pirelli Foundation building in Milan. Inside, there’s no wall plastered with images from the fabled Pirelli calendars. What is on display is an engaging collection of images, sketches and artworks alongside the company’s business archive. As early as 1910, Pirelli commissioned some of Italy’s most talented artists and graphic designers for its advertising campaigns. Kept in controlled climate conditions, the original advertisements look like small artworks. That legendary calendar isn’t completely overlooked – there’s a behind the scenes video, and a first issue, shot in 1964 by Robert Freeman, is stored behind a glass cabinet giving a glimpse into how its allure started.

This page The “Eternity is a Long Time” exhibit by Mike Kelley (above and top left) and “The Seven Heavenly Palaces” by Anselm Kiefer (left) Opposite page HangarBicocca art space (left) and Fausto Melotti’s “La Sequenza” installation (right)

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By Renata Fontanelli

Carlo Sampietro is so passionate about his work, and he talks about his projects with so much enthusiasm, that even those who don’t know much about art find themselves listening to his life stories, his ideas about art and creativity and his singular projects. The 36-year-old artist was born in Italy, in a small town on Lake Como, and now lives in New York, where he is singled out as one of the world’s great upcoming artists. Thanks to a stroke of luck, Sampietro received a Green Card in 2003, allowing him to move to the United States, where he immediately set out to become what he always wanted to be: an artist. Before he dedicated himself fully to his own artwork, Sampietro enjoyed a successful A 212

career as an art and creative director at advertising agencies in London, Milan and New York. Until 2009, he was creative director of BAI/TBWA, and that same year he started work on “The Street is in the House” project, which involved finding urban objects and adapting them to a functional, domestic use. “My work is primarily focused toward exploring the social and cultural responsibilities that we face and create as urban citizens,” he says. “My observations of landscape evolution, human preconceptions, use of natural resources, similarities and differences between societies, cultures and cities are translated into multimedia and found-object installation art.”

©Carlo Sampietro

Uniting artist

Carlo Sampietro shares his vision of the world through his artwork


Out of these found objects, Sampietro creates one-of-a-kind furnishings. For example, he turned a blue New York police barricade into a base for a crystal table. “Barriers are born to divide,” he says, “so I transformed them into a table that has the task of uniting.” A newspaper distributor became an aquarium, the old New York taxi lights were readapted as a lampshade, orange traffic cones have been made into a chair and a sewage tube was transformed into a modular couch. “My work explores the relationship between objects, the use for which they were created and possible

other uses. As far as I’m concerned, these relations are a metaphor for the human condition,” he says. “The Street is in the House” was exhibited in galleries in Milan and New York, including the One Art Space in Manhattan. In 2010 the eclectic artist won the Celeste Prize and the A design award the following year. In one of his most recent works, a video presented in Berlin, Sampietro assembled five derrières from different ethnic backgrounds and sexes on which the same number of percussionists play with their hands, almost as if they were

tambourines, producing a melodic and rhythmic “natural” sound. Named “Bunda Pandeiro,” that most ingenious of works is the first part of a trilogy that explores the rules of gender and race in the contemporary world. The “body concert” is a metaphorical representation of the tambourine, which has no gender, ethnicity or sexual orientation but is defined simply by the sound it makes. “PopDogs” is another great Sampietro work. “Here inspiration came to me from the incredible growth in the number of dogs in the world. In New York almost everyone has one, and in South America there’s a nonstop increase in stray dogs.” The work was installed in one of those street-corner or movie-theater machines that pop and shoot out large quantities of popcorn. Only instead of food, the machine popped out thousands of little dogs, mimicking the birth rate of real dogs per minute worldwide. The mobile art installation addresses the global issue of dog overpopulation by exploring the global cycle of craving, consumption and abandonment. “Everything I’ve done in the United States wouldn’t have been possible in Italy, and even if my roots remain on Lake Como, now I practically live between Manhattan and Brazil, a country that I love and am always glad to go back to.” And what has New York taught Sampietro? “Something fundamental: to never give up!”

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A high art _ nature

Giuseppe Penone at Versailles

ŠGiuseppe Penone/Tadzio

By Brent Gregston

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Versailles has a new gardener, a master of illusion and surprises For its annual encounter with contemporary art, the Palace of Versailles invited Giuseppe Penone to plant his tree sculptures in France’s most famous garden. Using the lost-wax technique, Penone casts life-size mature trees in bronze, “a material,” he says, “that fossilizes the plant.” The real trees leave their traces in art. The foliage, the vertical trunk and the structure of the branches are all there. “What interests me,” says Penone, “is when the work of man starts to become nature.” His monumental sculptures grace the Royal walk that leads from the Palace of Versailles to the Grand Canal – punctuating France’s most famous perspective, as the axis pulls the eye through the grounds to the shimmering water and on to infinity; others occupy the Bosquet de l’Étoile (“Star Grove”) labyrinth. As an artist, Penone (born in 1947 in Garessio) has spent the past 45 years exploring our relationship to nature. He is the youngest member of the ‘60s “Poor Art” (Arte Povera) movement – launched with a manifesto to break down the “dichotomy between art and life.” His way of doing that was to create sculptures out of trees. Versailles’ startling and often controversial conversion into a modern art space began in 2008, when US artist Jeff Koons – “The

King of Kitsch” – hung a giant lobster balloon in its ornate halls. In 2010, Japan’s Takashi Murakami filled the palace with plastic Manga sculptures, a snarling Oval Buddha and sexually explicit cartoons. Last year, Portuguese artist Joana Vasconcelos became the first woman artist to exhibit her work in the palace of Louis XIV. “Versailles is alive,” she said, “a place which we can talk about.” She installed a pair of giant stilettos, made of stainless steel frying pans, in the celebrated Hall of Mirrors. However, one of her works – a chandelier made out of 1,400 tampons called “The Bride” – was banned. Penone’s futuristic gardening, by contrast, is less likely to make Louis XIV roll over in his grave. The Sun King might have enjoyed his trompe l’oeil trees that look 215 A


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real but do strange things – the trunk is interrupted, branches are weighted with boulders or the entire tree suspended by its living cousins. Like the eccentric 18thcentury buildings called follies, they provide relief from the vast expanse of formal design. Indeed, Penone seems to toil in harmonious obedience to the garden of Versailles rather than using it as an exhibition space. “Tra Scorza e Scorza” (“Between Bark and Bark”) is the most striking example: two towering pillars of tree bark cast in bronze, from a Lebanon cedar that stood for centuries in Versailles before falling in a 1999 storm. A new tree is reborn between them.

This year is the 400th anniversary of Le Nôtre’s birth – he was Louis XIV’s friend as well as his landscape architect and gardener. Like Le Nôtre, Penone sees culture and nature as inseparably intertwined. “I’m on the side of the trees,” says Penone, “that’s my most personal link to Versailles.” On view until October 31 at the Palace of Versailles, France, chateauversailles.fr A 216

©Giuseppe Penone/Tadzio

“No one could ever put themselves in competition with the majesty of this place. The geometric architecture and the complex structure of gardens designed by Le Nôtre, the multiplication of points of view and the meeting of perspectives create a visual kaleidoscope,” explains Penone.


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A high art _ exhibit

Paint like the devil

By Sabina Llewellyn-Davies

ŠOliver-Schultz Berndt, Mike Bruce, Albert Oehlen, Stefan Rohner

Albert Oehlen’s wild work shakes the Vienna art scene

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The savage art of Albert Oehlen takes center stage this summer at Vienna’s foremost modern art museum, mumok. An exhibit titled “Albert Oehlen: Malerei” provides an explosive overview of this radical German artist’s work, from the early ‘80s to the present. The show encompasses 80 paintings, collages, computer prints, drawings, and an installation, making it the largest presentation of his work to date. The exhibit also includes a series from 2010 to 2012 that’s presented to the public for the first time ever. “This is the first opportunity to see such a large range of Oehlen’s work in one place,” says Karola Kraus, mumok’s director. Born in 1954, Oehlen came into his own as part of an art scene in Germany that was intent on breaking all the rules. After studying at the Hochschule für Bildene Kunst in Hamburg in the ‘70s, he moved to Cologne where he played a central role in the German Neo-Expressionist and Neue Wilde art movements, which unfolded in the ‘80s. His series of Mirror Paintings were considered groundbreaking, as he combined color surfaces and perspectives of space and integrated mirrors into his canvases. And, when the first computers came onto the scene, he began to work on computer paintings. Although significant and powerful, Oehlen’s work is totally chaotic and visually overloaded. Ranging from large abstract canvases to computer-generated works, collages and posters, his creations reflect the 219 A


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artist’s ever-expanding exploration of color and form. Obscure references to technology and sexuality, as well as art history and popular culture, appear throughout his work. Figures, interiors and elements of landscape are often evident, but, then obscured by more abstract forms. “It’s as if Oehlen were continually outtricking painting ,” says Achim Hochdörfer, mumok’s curator. “The intrinsic and extrinsic enemies of painting – avant-garde and new technologies – are brought into the picture, and clichés like beauty or virtuosity are smuggled in cunningly.”

©mumok, Albert Oehlen, Lothar Schnepf

“Albert Oehlen: Malerei” is on view until October 20 at mumok, 1 Museumsplatz, Vienna, tel. 43.1.525.000, mumok.at

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A high art _ sculpture

Man of steel By Sabina Llewellyn-Davies

Anachar Basbous’ latest sculptures are made from powerful metals Anachar Basbous likes making things with metal. Especially steel. “Contrary to common beliefs, steel is very much alive,” says the 44-year-old Lebanese sculptor. “It’s a matter that reacts to nature and time; its color and texture change constantly, steel is alive because it reacts to the external.”

Today, his adventure continues, and it revolves around metal art, hard and huge, grand and imposing. “Metals give me the liberty and the freedom to turn my ideas into expressive forms. In the spirit of steel, there is A 222

©Anachar Basbous

Art has always been at the forefront of Basbous’ mind. He was born in the Lebanese village of Rachana into a family of artists. His father, Michel Basbous, was a sculptor and his mother is a writer and a poet. He made his first sculpture at the age of 10 and went on to Paris to study at the Ecole Nationale Supérieure des Arts Appliqués et des Métiers d’Art (ENSAAMA), where he specialized in architectural wall design.


a constructive approach to it. It’s a constructivist rhythm, a build up of things rather than the removing of elements like in traditional sculpture work.” His most recent works feature geometric shapes, joined together and suspended in space, and he is presenting them this summer in “Balance & Light” at Art Lounge Gallery Space (Silk Factory) in Beiteddine, Lebanon. “All my works and almost everything in this world must have some sort of balance and be reliant on light. The earth and the universe as a whole as we know it, without the perfect balance that governs it and the light that sustains it, would not exist.” Exhibiting in an ancient space, an abandoned silk factory, felt just right, almost like a dialogue between the old and the new, contemporary structural pieces existing in a historic location. “It’s a combination of historical time and contemporary creations. This is a perfect location, it combines space, light and a hint of history in the great location that is Beiteddine.” “Balance & Light” is on view until August 31 simultaneously at Art Lounge, Beiteddine, and at the Beiteddine Palace, tel. 03.997.676, artlounge.net A 223


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Building an arts community

Dallas is home to the largest arts district in the United States

Deep in the heart of downtown Dallas, culture and community converge in a destination called the Dallas Arts District. Here, the city’s opera, symphony and theater companies perform beside three renowned art museums, housed in world-class venues. Thirty-five years into a 50-year revitalization plan, the remarkable buildings of four Pritzker Prize-winning architects alongside the artistic diversity available at the Dallas Arts District showcase Dallas’ cultural treasures. Ambitious? You bet. Brilliant? Absolutely. Determined? No question about it.

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©Dallas Museum of Art, Tim Hursley, Helen Kitti Smith

By Helen Kitti Smith


This page Dallas Museum of Art, South Entrance (left), Ernesto Neto’s “Cuddle on the Tightrope” at the Nasher Sculpture Center (below) and “The Fashion World of Jean Paul Gaultier” exhibit at the Dallas Museum of Art (bottom left) Opposite page An aerial view of the Dallas Arts District

All things considered, there is no more appropriate nickname for Dallas than its self-styled “Big D.” It expresses the commitment of the individual and corporate passions and philanthropy that corralled Big Dreams, coalesced Big Desires and converted Big Dollars to create this beacon for the arts. Ponder this: $1 billion in infrastructure; two distinguished private art collections; one public museum of art; nine venues; six indoor/three outdoor performance facilities. Plan this: convert 68 acres and 19 blocks of a light industrial area into an ample arts zone positioned on Flora Street. Add arts venues. Build out a residential community. Produce this: the largest contiguous arts district in the United States. Only New York’s Lincoln Center follows a close second at 16 square blocks. The arts along Flora The Dallas Museum of Art (DMA), founded in 1903, became the Arts District’s anchor upon relocation in 1984. New York architect Edward Larrabee Barnes created the modernist design. Eugene and Margaret McDermott gifted the corpus of the DMA’s vast collection: he, a founder of

Texas Instruments, she, as daughter Mary McDermott Cook states, “an art lover and lifetime arts collector.” The DMA’s barrel-vaulted building opens onto Flora’s western end, and “sets a tone of architectural aspiration,” as Dr. Maxwell Anderson, the DMA’s director, assesses it. “The DMA was an inducement to other arts leaders to ‘roll the dice’ to establish other entities.” Those other entities came onboard over the next two decades. In 1989, the Morton H. Meyerson Symphony Center nestled into its new Arts District home, by Pritzker-Prize winning architect IM Pei. His Eugene McDermott Concert Hall houses the 109-year-old Dallas Symphony Orchestra under beautifully overlapping geometric shapes. Renowned for acoustic excellence, the hall features an overhead canopy to calibrate reverberation. Former presidential candidate Ross Perot provided the final $10 million gift and designated the center’s name for his colleague, today called “The Mort.” In 2003, the Nasher Sculpture Center premiered on an entire block in the Dallas Arts District, the world’s first center dedicated exclusively to modern and contemporary sculpture. Raymond and Patsy Nasher advanced their interest in modern

sculptures in the ‘60s to include numerous distinguished pieces from Giacometti, Matisse, Picasso, Duchamp-Villon, Moore and Miró, among others. Pritzker Prize-winning architect Renzo Piano, in collaboration with landscape architect Peter Walker, stunningly interpreted Raymond Nasher’s desire for a contemplative and “roof-less” arts oasis. Piano’s Italian travertine marble encases the sculptures with a luminosity rivaled only by the tranquil Sculpture Garden onto which it opens. This $70 million venue is a gift from the Nashers. In 2009, the Dallas Arts District welcomed the AT&T Performing Arts Center (ATTPAC), a $354 million venue, which debuted both the Margot and Bill Winspear Opera House, designed by Pritzker-Prize winning architect Sir Norman Foster (with Spencer de Grey), and the Dee and Charles Wyly Theater, designed by Pritzker Prize-winning architect Rem Koolhaas (under Joshua Prince-Ramus). The Winspear Opera House hosts its resident Dallas Opera along with a year-long diversity of performances: seasonal Broadway series interspersed with the Texas International Theatrical Arts Society’s (TITAS) eclectic music and dance, all punctuated by individual shows and headliners. 225 A


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“The Noble Change: Tantric Art of the High Himalaya” exhibit at the Crow Collection of Asian Art (right), the Wyly Theater and its reflecting pool (below) and the Winspear Opera House (far bottom)

The wildly impressive Wyly Theater, home to the Dallas Theater Center, is every director’s dream venue. This theater deconstructs according to the director’s vision: move the chairs, rearrange the stage’s configuration, fling open the aluminum shutters, become an open-air venue for Arts District pedestrians. Thus, the Wyly liberates the artistic vision. This vertically stacked structure is an icon of modern theatrical design. Focus next on the Zen-quiet of Asian culture and head to the Trammell and A 226

Margaret Crow Collection of Asian Art. Inaugurated in 1998, this $5.5 million museum inhabits three light-filled galleries. The Crow family’s Asian expeditions began in the ‘70s to source decorative art for their real estate interiors. Business turned to pleasure and inspired their personal collection, now some 7,000 pieces, of which 500 are on permanent display. “We are a bridge to Asia’s arts heritage here in Dallas,” states Trammell S. Crow, president of the Crow Family Foundation, which oversees the collection. The collective activities Dr. Anderson cites the Dallas Arts District’s “sense of collective thinking…as a federation rather than an organization.” Together it hosts street fairs and films, stays open late with free admission and exchanges specialists to cross-reference shows and enhance scheduled activities. With more residences planned to complete the 50-year vision for the Dallas Arts District, this 21st-century arts community solidly rocks on.

©Iwan Baan, Crow Collection of Asian Art, Foster + Partners/Nigel Young

The Winspear’s classic horseshoe-shaped theater is a modern piece of art itself, encased as it is in a vibrant-red, glasspaneled façade. Red? That’s for opera’s passion and the Winspear’s heartbeat. Surround this façade with a glass canopy that extends over the pedestrian plaza, spreads toward the Annette Strauss Square entertainment lawn and reaches to embrace the Mort. This unique architectural dialogue encourages engaging, exploring and experimenting with the opera, symphony, art museums and theater.


Edgard Mazigi "Lost and Found"

Urban Living I, 2012, oil on linen,160x138cm

"Lost and Found" is a solo exhibition by Edgard Mazigi at Art on 56th. The Opening Reception will be on Tuesday September 24, 2013, starting 6:00 to 9:00 pm. The artist will be present. The Exhibition will run until October 12, 2013.

56th Youssef Hayeck Str. Gemmayzeh Beirut, Lebanon Tel: +961 1 570 331 +961 70 570 333 info@arton56th.com arton56th.com


The country pavilions at the Arsenale, including Germany’s, featuring Ai Weiwei’s “Bang” (top left) and “Cleansing” (above), and a look at Belgium’s (top right) and South Africa’s (left) pavilions

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©Nan McElroy

A high art _ biennial


All together for art By Nan McElroy

Marc Quinn’s seashell bronze sculpture

The 55th Art Biennial blankets Venice

All by itself, the city of Venice is compelling, intricately labyrinthine, frequently confusing, always intriguing. Add the occasion of the Art Biennial of 2013, and the effect is increased almost exponentially. This tiny cluster of 118 islands plopped in the middle of a sloshy lagoon has been showered with art of all forms, created by over 150 participants from 37 countries. And we’re all soaking it up. It’s only natural to think of the Venice Biennial – the bi-annual international contemporary art festival established in 1895 – as being contained primarily in the 30 pavilions in the Giardini gardens that swing along the tail of Venice proper, but that would be a mistake. The first exception is the Portugal Pavilion, a decommissioned calcilhiero ferry artist Joana Vasconcelos brought from Lisbon. Moored right outside

the Giardini entrance, the ferry has been revitalized with blue painted azulejo tiles that lead to an ocean-womb interior of undulating deep blue velvet shapes that morph in the shifting pinlight. The Arsenale hosts national pavilions and individual artist installations (including a show-within-a-show of 200 works by over 30 artists curated by Cindy Sherman). The almost 100 collateral and along-for-the-ride exhibitions are flung across the city like a Burano fisherman’s net, even reeling in islands like Murano, San Servolo, Lido, San Lazzaro degli Armeni and San Francesco del Deserto. In short: the art is everywhere – and much of the access to it is free. If you intend to immerse yourself, you might as well buy a two-day ticket and start with the Giardini, whose Central Pavilion is dense 229 A


This page Tavares Strachan’s “Polar Eclipse” installation at the Bahamas Pavilion (top), Marc Quinn’s statue of Alison Lapper pregnant (above) and a glimpse of the Biennial’s many exhibits (right) Opposite page A mobile installation by Gabriel Orozco, fabricated from hundreds of feathers

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©Nan McElroy, Tom Powel Imaging

A high art _ biennial


with installations, including that of the best individual artist winner Tino Sehgal. Street favorite Russia’s interactive social commentary takes place on two floors, so allow a bit of time. Germany, on the other hand, hosts Ai Weiwei’s “Bang,” a clustering of wooden stools, which seem to multiply before your eyes; and though the artistdissident was not permitted to leave China to attend the Biennial, he has two other mustsee installations mounted in Sant’Antonin church in Castello and the Zuecca Project Space on the Giudecca. At Belgium, artist Berlinde De Bruyckere collaborated with Nobel Literature Prize winner J.M. Coetzee as she created her monolithic, mesmerizing wax replica of a dead tree recovered in France. The shaded light falls as gently over its limbs – that recall a certain humanity – as the dressings that wrap its wounded knots. Sarah Sze directs you to enter the exits of the United States pavilion; her impossible, intricate, fragile constructions of everyday items make you

wish you were smaller so you could wander their orderly intricacies. Who knows if it’s owing to the theme of “The Encyclopedic Palace” that books appear and re-appear throughout the various installations. Wim Botha sculpts intense vitality into old volumes in South Africa’s pavilion at the top of the escalator in the Arsenale; Brazil’s “Odires Mlàszho” instead intertwines and interleaves multiple volumes elegantly and impossibly, while Indonesia lays them out orderly and en masse, like an ancient reservoir of knowledge. Antonio Nocera created the massive paper and glass “Libri d’Acqua” (Water Book) installation (on display in the courtyard at San Nicolò Monastery on Lido) and donated it to the city of Venice during the launch of his collateral event. Newcomers make a splash Ten nations are making their Biennial debut this year, among them Paraguay, Ivory Coast, the United Arab Emirates (who’s been offered a permanent space) – even the Holy See. 231 A


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You’ll have absorbed more newcomers like Kosovo (walk into and peer out of Petrit Halilaj’s earthy cocoon structure) in the Arsenale by the time you take an unexpectedly icy dip into the lauded Bahamas pavilion, where Tavares Strachan recounts his recent sojourn to the North Pole in his “Polar Eclipse” installation. The narrative pays homage to recently credited Robert Peary associate Matthew Alexander Henson. Themes of invisibility, impermanence, unattainability and shifting time and place permeate this collection of strikingly disparate media. The polar wildlife in intricate collages seem to fly apart, as does the Inuit figure levitating opposite them, above persistent, indefatigable hummingbirds that sweep across the canvas below. In between, a circle of 14 screens present a 360-degree view of Strachan’s own polar trek, while hovering in back is a tank with a barely discernible sculpture of Henson’s circulatory system in oil and Plexiglas. Two ice blocks in A 232

temperature-controlled tanks mirror each other: one transported from the polar ice cap, one a chemical clone, commenting on the question of which of the two explorers reached the Pole first – never mind that owing to the incessant movement of the icecap, once a flag is planted it immediately moves away from the spot it marked. All this intermittently accompanied by a traditional Inuit ayaya song, a recording performed by 40 children Strachan brought from Nassau to Venice. You’ll have to navigate to Dorsoduro and Campo San Vio to view the winner of the Golden Lion for Best National Participation: Angola, awarded in its Biennial premiere. Stacked neatly and evenly across the floors of the opulent Cini collection of Renaissance art by greats like Giotto and Botticelli, lies photographer Edson Chagas’ series of mostly cast off, unassuming urban objects; vignettes that catalog Angola’s capital Luanda. If you’re already feeling overwhelmed, never fear. Just keep an eye for the Venezia News Biennial map-guide; it’s one of the most complete, free for the taking and will help you organize your own trek into the Biennial for as long as it’s around. The Venice Biennial runs until November 24, labiennale.org

©Nan McElroy

In the Lebanon theater-pavilion at the Arsenale structure, “Letter to a Refusing Pilot,” Camus’ lament, “I should like to be able to love my country and love justice,” is only one of a few diverse elements that Beirut artist Akram Zaatari incorporates in his non-linear video, inspired by the search for a legendary Israeli pilot who refused to bomb a school.


This page Lebanon’s country pavilion at the Arsenale, featuring Akram Zaatari’s “Letter to a Refusing Pilot” (below and right) and Indonesia’s country pavilion at the Arsenale (bottom) Opposite page “The Victory” by Mariam Haji, part of the Bahrain country pavilion

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Beirut scenes of seduction

By Salma Abdelnour and Marwan Naaman

Where to take your date to get her in the mood for love When you go on a dinner date, all you’re really interested in is conversation…right? And what better place than a quiet restaurant with powerful lighting, so you can hear and see your date clearly? Sometimes, sure, but let’s be honest: too much silence and lighting can really kill the mood, especially when you’re hoping for a little romance, a sexy vibe and a setting that will get you both fired up for – whatever happens next. When in doubt, take your date to one of these sizzling Beirut restaurants. They’ll help set the tone for a fireworksfilled night. The rest is up to you. Mar Mikhael’s newest and more romantic brasserie is tucked away behind the neighborhood’s main drag, through a narrow alleyway, up a short flight of stairs and behind an ancient wrought-iron gate. Here, in a courtyard lush with plants, you and your date are surrounded by a noble collection of old Beirut buildings, some gloriously repainted and others in a blissful state of disrepair. There’s also an indoor dining room, complete with ultra-high ceilings and those colorful, intricately designed tiles that characterize old Lebanese homes, but for pure romance, nothing beats the garden setting. The menu is mostly French fare (with some notable exceptions like a rich, potatoand-meat shepherd’s pie), and includes specials such as a delicate, melt-in-your-mouth baked sea bass served atop Lyonnaise potatoes and sweet caramelized onions, and steak Diane, served medium-rare and simmered in its own jus. To seal the deal, order the warm, sensual soufflé au chocolat, and spoon it into her mouth while Jacques Brel begs his long lost love to stay. Mar Mikhael, tel. 01.577.578. A 234

©Nadim Asfar, Four Seasons, Christina Malkoun, Yumi

Les Fen• tres


Yumi

It’s hard to deny the sensory pleasures of soft, glistening flesh – we mean sushi and sashimi, of course – enhanced by body-heat-raising ginger and wasabi. But raw fish on its own won’t do the trick. You’ve got to eat it in the right environment, and that’s where Yumi comes in. The casually glam dining room’s small two-top tables are perfect for a tête-à-tête, and the sake cocktails, mouthfuls of pink tuna sashimi and the must-order (if only for the name) Kinky Pinky maki rolls made with spicy salmon are sure to win her over. Monot St., Ashrafieh, tel. 03.272.763.

Toto Cucina Italiana

If you’ve ever dreamed about starring in a black-andwhite movie from the ‘50s, opposite a glamorous co-star – who, naturally, falls in love with you in the process – Toto is your restaurant. Set in the elegant Mar Mikhael house that once held Chez Sophie, Toto is run by the same owners (Samir and Sophie Tabet) but is otherwise a radically different experience. Now, black-and-white furniture, eclectically patterned black-and-white wallpaper and black chandeliers define the space, a chic homage to the mid-century era when the famous Italian comedian and actor Toto made his name. The menu is fittingly Italian – from stone-baked Neapolitan pizzas to risotto with black truffles – and helps set the mood for a seductive night of love, Italian-style. Armenia St., Mar Mikhael, tel. 01.566.991.

The Roof at Four Seasons

Whisk your date away from the Beirut chaos to an escape-pad way up in the sky, where the glittering lights and the sea down below make the city look like a magical, otherworldly landscape. Sound like a promising way to kick off your night? Then head to The Roof, the Four Seasons’ al fresco lounge on the 26th floor, and share a bottle of champagne, elegantly composed Asian tapas – sesame-crusted shrimp, crispy calamari salad – and fantasies of those luxuriously furnished guest suites just a short elevator ride away. Wafic Sinno Ave., Minet el Hosn, tel. 01.761.000. A 235


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Power dining By Marwan Naaman

It’s always better to do business over a memorable meal. And whether you’re working on a huge company merger in New York or planning to build a new tower and redraw the Toronto skyline, here are two restaurants guaranteed to seal the deal. The Lambs Club in New York The Lambs Club is one of those glamorous New York restaurants that you see in movies, a place where men in Gucci suits meet over martinis to discuss top-secret contracts and where statuesque women in Tom Ford sunglasses rendezvous with their mystery lovers. Located inside the luxury Chatwal Hotel in Times Square, and helmed by legendary New York restaurateur Geoffrey Zakarian, The Lambs Club is all red leather and shiny silver, complete with a massive gas fireplace and black walls adorned with dramatic photographs of Broadway and Hollywood stars. There are no windows, and the place is safely tucked away at the back of the hotel, away from busy 44th Street, so that privacy and discretion are guaranteed.

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The dinner menu, as devised by Zakarian (whose impressive career includes stints at Le Cirque in Manhattan and The Dorchester in London, and who also appears as a judge on the Food Network’s Chopped), is as grand as the setting, featuring modern American cuisine with an international flair. Recommended starters include green salad enhanced with Marcona almonds and a mustard seed vinaigrette, cauliflower soup with olive oil jam and tuna tartare with cucumber and avocado. As a main course, try roasted Dover sole served with a rich Meunière sauce, New York strip steak with green peppercorn or crispy skin loup de mer (sea bass) with Puy lentils. The Lambs Club is also famed for its decadent desserts. Two to relish: lemon meringue tart with vanilla blueberry compote and rhubarb sorbet, and chocolate soufflé with sour cherries and stracciatella ice cream. For reservations, tel. 1.212.997.5262, thelambsclub.com

©The Chatwal, Shangri-La

Seal the deal over spectacular cuisine in New York and Toronto


Bosk in Toronto The Shangri-La, Toronto’s most luxurious, most refined and most exclusive hotel, is home to an equally upscale restaurant: Bosk. This is the place to go if you have a business lunch or dinner and need to impress your fellow diners. Whereas The Lambs Club exudes old world glamour, Bosk is very decidedly turned to the future, with blond, natural oak floors and floor-to-ceiling windows that let in massive amounts of light. Diners can observe the foot traffic on University Avenue, or be privy to the action in the Shangri-La’s sprawling, ultra-popular lobby. The overall effect is unique: you’re in a smooth, sleek, sophisticated setting and yet you can view the nearby busyness – from a safe distance. Damon Campbell, Bosk’s executive chef, has been with Shangri-La since 2008 (he has worked at the Shangri-La hotels in

Manila and Kuala Lumpur), returning to his native Canada last fall to create Bosk’s distinctive menu. “My dishes are ingredient inspired and globally influenced,” he explains. Always begin your meal at Bosk with a glass of Taittinger champagne, guaranteed to impress potential business partners. Then get ready to peruse Campbell’s distinctive menu. Highlights include Nova Scotia scallops and lobster gnocchi, both of which are appetizers. Enhanced with avocado, crunchy rice and toasted sesame ginger dressing, the scallops are a delicate, complex affair, with the creaminess of the avocado offsetting the crackle of the rice. The potato gnocchi’s heartiness is balanced out by a lobster emulsion fantasy, resulting in a dish that’s rich and delicate at the same time. As a main, try the Alaskan black cod.

Served with tasty aromatic rice fritters and accompanied with a warm soya mirin vinaigrette, this perfectly executed fish is fluffy and fragrant. Another great option is the Brome Lake duck breast, served medium rare and enhanced with yellow peach and onion petals. As in all Shangri-La properties, the service at Bosk is stellar: the waiters know everything there is to know about the menu, and they’re so well-versed in wines that whichever ones they recommend will surely pair beautifully with your meal. Speaking of which, the wine list at Bosk is out of this world, with select vintages from Italy, Australia, California, France and Portugal, among others. All you have to do is sit back, enjoy your Conundrum white or your Hidden Bench red and wait for your guests to shake on it. For reservations, tel. 1.647.788.8858, shangri-la.com/toronto 237 A


A gourmet _ aphrodisiacs

Foods to get you in the mood By Salma Abdelnour

If a date asks you out for oysters and champagne, you’d better prepare for a late night. Everyone knows oysters have aphrodisiac properties – or so we’ve been told for centuries. Other ingredients are famous for their stimulating effects too: chocolate, red wine, avocados. But if there’s one part of the world that has more than its share of aphrodisiac foods, it’s the Middle East. Arabic culinary traditions are full of ingredients that are believed to act as libidoboosters. And since many of these foods are not as famous for their sexy effects as oysters and chocolate, it’s all the more likely that a date won’t even suspect anything when that stealth ingredient is on the table. A 238

Pine nuts With their high zinc content, believed to raise the sperm count, pine nuts should be a must for every romantic dinner date. The Middle Eastern staple was first thought to act as an aphrodisiac centuries ago: it was prescribed as a bedtime snack by the ancient Roman surgeon and philosopher Galen, who recommended eating 100 pine nuts before hitting the sack. Almonds Ever notice that lots of beauty products – lotions, soaps, shampoos, cosmetics – use almond as an aromatic ingredient? One explanation: the scent is believed to act as a subtle turn-on for women. So on your next date, be sure to get some almonds on the table. Luckily there’s no shortage of almonds in Lebanon. Enjoy them as a pre-dinner snack, in an almond-spiked dish like

Lebanese chicken with rice or the French classic trout amandine – or in a smooth, strong after-dinner amaretto. Pomegranates For obvious reasons, pomegranates have long been used to represent fertility – and anyone who wonders why has only to slice one open. All those seeds, all that juice! Besides being delicious and fun to eat – if you don’t mind a little mess on your hands – pomegranates are full of antioxidants, zinc and vitamin C, which promote health, fertility and sexual vitality. Even the ancient Greeks had a hunch about this: when the fertility goddess Persephone was in the underworld, Hades seduced her with…what else? A pomegranate. Watermelon Arguably Lebanon’s favorite fruit – granted, there’s strong competition for that title –

watermelon has many benefits besides its deliciously sweet, refreshing taste. It’s full of the amino acid citruline, which helps the blood vessels to relax, leading to an increase in circulation – and faster, heightened arousal. That bowl of batteekh after dinner? Just say yes. Garlic Of all the ingredients that appear most frequently in Middle Eastern cuisines, garlic is at the top of the list. Here in Lebanon, we love our garlic – which is a good thing, since it stimulates the circulation, improves heart health and is believed to raise the levels of heat in the body, stimulating that sexy buzz. Just make sure to proceed with caution on a date and eat garlicky foods in small quantities (absolutely no shish taouk with toum!), so the notorious garlic breath doesn’t undermine what its properties stimulate.

©Images shutterstock.com

Five Middle Eastern aphrodisiacs


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A lifestyle _ vineyards

Select wines By William Dobson

ŠDomaine des Tourelles

Get to know two of Lebanon’s boutique wineries

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Domaine des Tourelles winery in the Bekaa Valley, and their wine boutique in Ashrafieh, Beirut

Arriving at Domaine des Tourelles in the Bekaa Valley is like entering a place where the constant spread of modernity seems to have thankfully been forgotten. The lush grass of the lawns, almost impossibly green, and row after row of vines point to the fertility of the land, while a hammock sways gently in the breeze. In the distance, the snow-capped mountains frame the tranquil vignette. Farm buildings, crumbling at the edges, and an ancient well are reminiscent of Southern France and simpler times. Here, I’m greeted by head winemaker Faouzi Issa, incongruously young given the surroundings, and a man who seems to love dust almost as much as he does wine. “We don’t clean anything here,” he says, as we step into the main building on the farm. “We have 145 years of fermentation. Yeast is what starts that process and, if we remove the dust, we lose the yeast,” he explains before listing a long variety of

other qualities he so admires in what others mistake for filth. Little else has changed over the years either, whether it be the old chair where Pierre Brun, the original owner, would doze in the heat of the afternoon sun, or the equipment and techniques from the farm’s inception, which are still used today. “We hate technology here,” Issa says while standing next to vast concrete vats used for storing wine since the very beginning, “if it’s just for technology’s sake that is. People matter more than machines.” “Of course, it’s possible to come to this country and make great wine,” he adds, “but I’ve grown up here, I know the land and I’ve worked here since I was 18. We’re a familyrun business from top to bottom and that has to count for something.” And it does, the years of history magnificently manifested in the final product. 241 A


A lifestyle _ vineyards

Across Lebanon, not far from the Mediterranean and set high above Batroun, Ixsir, founded in 2008, operates along very different lines. “We don’t believe cobwebs make better wine,” says Hady Kahale, the vineyard’s managing partner, as we survey the almost virginal surroundings from the roof, with views from The Cedars above all the way down to the sea. The old stone house itself may be 370 years old, but almost everything else is brand new and spotlessly clean. “We’re very much artisan but if you don’t do something differently, you’ll never succeed,” Kahale says as we make our way down the spiral staircase leading deep underground.

Ixsir winery, located in the hills above Batroun

An ingenious design, set on a series of tiers ending with the barrel cellar at the bottom, some 12 meters below (keeping it at an almost constant temperature) has seen Ixsir being named by CNN in the top 12 greenest buildings in the world, among a host of other environmental accolades.

He also believes that, ultimately, it makes better wine. By allowing gravity to be the driving force in the wine-making process the result is that “you actually become the overseer of a natural process, more a wine facilitator if you will,” while protecting the fragility of the fruit. Billed as “the wine of the Lebanese mountains,” Ixsir is the result of years of meticulous research across six different Lebanese regions. From the north’s Anita, which at 1,800 meters is believed to be the second highest vineyard in the world, to Jezzine in the south, “each different grape variety is afforded the environment that suits it best,” says Kahale. “It’s cliché that you can ski in the morning and swim in the afternoon, but that’s what makes wine so special in this country.” “We’re not here to compete for a bigger market share but to increase the market,” Kahale adds. “Everyone is making a better and better product, and that’s the only way we’ll make a better market.”

©Ixsir

Yet, Kahale is keen to point out that it’s not these types of awards they’re specifically after. “We look to make the least possible

impact on the environment, not to brag but because we believe it’s the right thing to do.”

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A lifestyle _ happy hour

By MacKenzie Lewis

©Tony Elieh

It’s time for happy hour on Beirut’s Uruguay Street

Take to the streets

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On a recent Thursday evening, though, it was clear that the street had evolved from a handful of relaxed patios into a happening entertainment destination, an alleyway dotted with bars, pubs and abbreviated clubs. Music pumped from speakers, and as patios swelled, crowds spilled into the streets with cocktails in hand. The pathway that connects them all was a virtual catwalk for primped and polished girls who sauntered from one bar to the next. The layout of Uruguay Street makes it utterly convenient: once you park your vehicle, it’s easy to explore the scene, sounds and cocktails of multiple spots without ever picking up your car keys again. Groups kick back pints at Patrick’s Irish Pub, sip whiskey at speakeasy Gatsby and make time for tequila gimlets at Uruguay Cocktail Bar in between. The road was made for fickle partiers with short attention spans. And let’s face it; once tequila’s in the mix, who doesn’t fit that description?

After years spent perched atop the city, the rooftop set is breaking new ground. Rooftop clubs have hardly been abandoned, but in its third year, Downtown Beirut’s Uruguay Street is bringing the party back to the streets with a happy hour scene that rivals its highflying counterparts. When it launched in 2011, Uruguay Street was one of the city’s only pedestrian-friendly destinations to come alive after working hours. While late nights could get rowdy in the early days, the atmosphere was laid back at bars like Julep’s and Cassis, some of the first to welcome crowds back to the long-forgotten alleyway.

Though we’re all in search of the next best thing, whether it’s Guinness or an artisanal cocktail, hip-hop or jazz, at the end of the night there’s one common denominator: the hunger pangs that strike when it’s time to head home. The rooftop clubs will feed you crab meat and duck confit, but Classic Burger Joint could be where Uruguay Street gets the final leg up on all its rivals. Facing the main road, Classic Burger Joint serves as the impossible-to-miss exit sign to Beirut’s own Nightlife Village; a no-fuss midnight snack is its perfect parting gift. The women posted out front, polishing off French fries in Marc Jacobs, serve as a reminder that even the glitziest night owls need to keep their heels planted firmly on the ground. 245 A


A lifestyle _ sex coach

Lessons in love

By Lucy Gillespie

Meet Eric Amaranth, sex lifestyle coach

Down on love at the end of a long-term relationship, I had heard about Eric Amaranth’s work and was excited to toss out old baggage and welcome a fresh perspective. We sat down to talk about my sex life, and from the moment he walked in the door, his sheer exuberance at sharing his pearls of wisdom got me off. Not literally, of course. As a professional sex lifestyle coach, Amaranth offers both talktherapy sessions to individuals, couples or small groups, as well as private, hands-off coaching for singles and couples looking to get more out of getting some.

Unlike the average horny teen however, Amaranth discovered a fetish. “What really gets me off is seeing women come hard.” He recognized that the man’s pleasure was “part of the package deal,” and the difference between ok and mind-blowing sex was the woman’s pleasure. “Most men say that they don’t care about women’s pleasure, or it’s about theirs. They don’t realize that they’re cutting off a great deal of their pleasure by depriving her of hers.” So began a quest for knowledge, met by a surprising dirge of information. “Sex books gave me some physical techniques; where everything is and what to do with it, but there are a lot of junky sex books. You really have to experiment with everything and cherry-pick what works.” At college, Amaranth took human sexuality classes, grilled his professors and was equally disappointed: “I wanted to know, in scientific terms, how best to pleasure the clitoris, or A 246

how best to orally stimulate a guy, but the field of human sexuality is mainly concerned with trauma and abnormalities, not the core of people’s sex lives.” His quest led him to Betty Dodson, a pioneer of the sexual revolution of the ‘60s, whose book Orgasms for Two finally hit home. “She’d mentioned something called the suction fuck, but never described what it was. I wrote to her about it, and she was impressed that a 21-year-old straight guy was at that level of understanding. We made plans for me to come up, so I could learn advanced techniques.” They met up, then hooked up, then shacked up – a committed couple for over 10 years in spite of the whopping 47-year-age difference. The first step to greater sexual chemistry, according to Amaranth, is for both men and women to take on the responsibility of pleasuring their partner, which means men (and women) must cast off ego-driven ideas about what sex should be or what kind of partner they are. Just like your mother always said: treat others as you wish to be treated. Once your attitude is right, it’s just a question of practice.

Another wall Amaranth constantly encounters is fear of sexual normalcy: “People treat their quirks like a disease, but really, what isn’t normal is having incredible sex every time. Once I tell clients that no one else is climaxing consistently, they stop worrying about what is normal.” He has also encountered a domino effect in women’s self-image: “A guy will tell a woman that she smells bad, she’ll tell her friends, and then that shame will be passed on down the line.” Amaranth sees himself as a composer, guiding symphonies from the sidelines. “Sex is a kind of art. Instead of tickling sound to make music, I’m tickling the sense of touch. This is touch candy. By spreading a message of greater intimacy and reciprocity, Amaranth hopes that his clients will become more like him. “When I teach clients to do stuff with their body they’ve never done before – it’s astoundingly beautiful, it’s incredible. That’s when they start to think like me, to experiment, to pull different techniques together to create these epic sensual concertos.” Visit sexlifecoachnyc.com

©Mélanie Dagher

From his earliest encounters, Amaranth was fascinated by how stuff worked. Sex was just another playground to explore for his scientific mind. Like the average horny teen, Amaranth looked to his peers for insight. “I remember this one guy – really good looking and muscular, a stereotypical female dream – telling me ‘the worse you treat a woman, the better they like ya.’ I wanted to know if there was a better way.”



A lifestyle _ photographs

Sex, vows and videotape

By Serena Makofsky

A July wedding. Kate Moss stood at the altar with Jamie Hince, the guitarist for The Kills. Various luminaries were in attendance, among them Marc Jacobs, Manolo Blahnik, Stefano Pilati and Karen Elson. Photographer Terry Richardson showed up and dove right in, snapping shots of the couple and the guests, though Moss and Hince had hired Mario Testino as the official wedding photographer. A 248

Rather than get in a huff about Richardson’s impromptu photo shoot, Moss kept the party going and invited Richardson to the honeymoon suite at the Ritz hotel, where he photographed the couple in various stages of dress (groom) and undress (bride) amid the rumpled sheets. A dramatic black-andwhite image of Hince seated against the upholstered headboard, embracing a supine Moss who had one breast exposed, made its way into magazines and gossip columns and across the interwebs. Hence, a trend was born, at least among the rich, famous and photogenic. Known as “morning after” photo shoots, these images capture couples in their honeymoon glory, crossing the threshold of the hotel suite,

romping in their rooms and, for the bravest among them, revealing intimate moments. Forget the stilted smiles and formal postures of wedding day portraits. Smudged makeup, bedhead and that look of elation/exhaustion that only a wedding and honeymoon produces are de rigueur for the genre. As trend reporter Lexi Nisita commented on the fashion blog Refinery29, “We’re all for stepping out of the box when it comes to wedding photography…by the end of summer, we’ve seen way too many…images of a beautiful bride on a beach that look like they belong in a frame in the home décor section of Target.” You can save those sexy morning after photos in a locked box under the bed.

©Mélanie Dagher

Capture yourself forever, the morning after


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A snapshot _ casino

Roll of the dice Photographer Alice Rosati Stylist Amelianna Loiacono The Casino du Liban, the Middle East’s most famous gambling destination, has recaptured the glamour of its ‘50s and ‘60s heyday, and it once again hosts local and international glitterati, virtually any day of the year. If you close your eyes for a moment, you can almost hear the immortal Ann-Margret singing “Take a Chance,” just like she did back in 1968 when she filmed the classic film Rebus right here in Lebanon.

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A journey _ cuba

Cuba, part one: tropical fever By Elgy Gillespie

Tropical humidity kisses your skin like moist suede. Cuba Libres and bottomless mojitos caress the tongue. Rumba and rhythms set your hips helplessly a-swivel. Cuba is sexy. Poor thing, it just is. It can’t help it.

fragile dependence on Venezuelan subsidies and a hungry past.

“The fairest isle that human eyes have yet beheld!” Christopher Columbus raved in his log 500 years ago, gloating over fertile palms and beaches fanned by Caribbean breezes. “Where there is such marvelous scenery, there must be more from which profit can be made!” Spoken like a tour operator.

A sense of fecundity lingers. Bananas and yukka, poinsianas and bougainvilleas choke Havana’s crumbling mansion gardens in tangled profusion. Around José Martí Airport, every inch is quilted green between royal palms. Even the pigeons appear to rumba, dancing what Cubans jokingly call “the vaccination dance,” the hot-and-cold bait-and-switch rumbas where men strut and spread feathers in a virility courtship.

If he were still alive, he’d be building sun ‘n’ sand resorts and luring visitors with rum and rumba, just as Cubans and their international partners are doing now, mindful of their

Rumbas, salsas, boleros, cigars and the many, many faces of Comrade Che suffuse pheromone-laced air from scores of throbbing salsa clubs – and piropos too.

©Mark Downey

Havana beckons with unabashed sensuality

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What are piropos, you ask? Piropos are flirty and teasing come-ons, comical or poetic, risqué but generally amusing, so it’s hard to feel outraged. “Cuban humor is very spicy,” a Cuban grandmother in her 60s shrugs, laughing. “Muy picante...!” The word for anyone who hisses piropos is a jinetero or “jockey,” and jineterismo stays alive and well in this rapidly changing culture, where selling and buying is getting easier all the time, from homemade meals (in paladares) to renting rooms with families. Every day brings in more groups, and increasingly groups from Miami, an hour away.

Inside the still glamorous Hotel Habana Riviera, ocean waves lash at picture windows, set against the cavernous white marble lobby. Nearby is a pool where Esther Williams splashed, an egg-shaped casino, celebrated Copa Cabaret, L’Aiglon restaurant, L’Elegante bar, styled like ‘50s Las Vegas. All of it was built at the very peak of ‘50s chic by the famous mafia capo Meyer Lansky. Two salsa clubs enliven the Riviera, including the fabled Copa. A young Castro declared victory

Stiff mojitos at resort and hotel bars bring out the sun-starved Spaniards, Italians, Latin Americans and Canadians, all checking out the tropical delights with a young Cubana on their arm – and surprise, nobody’s texting! Cuban youth are still in “pre-tech” heaven, with scant Wi-Fi for most folks. It’s not yet post-romance and definitely not post-sex. Along the Malecón seawall, girls in tottering heels hug their boys against its wavesplashed walls. Men hiss a less romantic “Quieres chicas?” Are we shocked? No, just amazed at the partying. And if every Cuban male yearns for a mulatta, an Afro-Cuban or Chino-Cuban girl, girls yearn for a papariqui con guanaquiqui or “sugar daddy” – guana is Havana slang for “money.”

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A journey _ cuba

here in 1959. Outside, bubble-gum pink 1956 Plymouths, orange Cococabs and fringed pedicabs await visitors heading for allnighters in Old Havana or the Havana Libre. Over the road a jazz club throbs well past midnight. Cuban girls in six-inch heels flaunt tiny dresses, black curls and a delectable mix of Cuban heritage: green or blue eyes, plump lips and voluptuous curves.

Next day we cap a visit to a Babalawo priest with a lobster, rum and rumba lunch at Cojimar village, where Hemingway went fishing with Castro. Photos of Fidel and Ernest show it. No wonder the cult of Hemingway’s manliness remains! A 256

Hemingway lived here – oh, how he lived! – and famously drank “My mojito in La Bodeguita, my daiquiri in El Floridita,” and wrote that on the wall, where you can read it today. Back in Miami, the tired exiled Cuban immigration officer asks me if I have any rum. “No, I drank it all over there,” I say. He looks wistful. “Where?” Everywhere! Including Hemingway’s bar at Cojimar, I say. He was from Havana. “What do you miss?” I ask. “I miss my girlfriends,” he sighs. Spoken like a true Cuban.

©Mark Downey

Further down the Malecón, the 1931 Hotel Nacional, with its Moorish-Hispano-Art Deco stucco and tiles, rises majestically. It’s late. Tourists are inhaling rum and rumba – the vertical kind – on terraced bars sweeping down to a moonlit ocean. Some middle-aged Cubans get up to rumba spontaneously, shedding decades.



A journey _ cuba

Cuba, part two: Havana beat By Grace Banks

The city that smolders is the Caribbean’s most lusted-after destination

What lies behind the grand façades of the city’s colonial villas infuses Havana with an of-the-minute atmosphere. It is in these grand stately homes that a fashionable cultural movement has popped up, the Paladar. Here, the raucous family meal gets a makeover with entrepreneurial Cubans transforming their homes into innovative dining establishments. Casa Miglis leads the way, subverting its location in one of the most dilapidated parts of the city, with a menu A 258

that combines flavors from Cuba and Sweden. With fusion dishes of meatballs with scotch bonnet sauce alongside pork with pear foam, owner Michel Miglis is at the forefront of Havana’s hip food scene. “It’s the first restaurant and bar in central Havana, and I wanted it to be a melting pot where celebrities and creatives meet,” Miglis says. Food is served under industrial lighting, with Louis XVI-style seats adorning the walls. Traditional Creole cuisine (comida Criolla) gets a shakeup in Havana’s premium Paladares. La Guardia, with its extensive wine list and location within an abandoned castle, is an essential stop for Caribbean langoustines and adds a sense of haute to the area. Seafood is a specialty of Havana’s top restaurants, and El Templete on the historic port shouldn’t be missed, with ocean views that are some of the best in the city. This is a town of strollers and browsers, and some of the best shopping takes place on the street. Vintage postcards and antique jewelry can all be bartered for on the grand avenues of Havana Vieja, while clusters

©Grace Banks

Walking the streets of Havana is to experience a city at times chaotic, more often sublime. In the center of La Habana’s grandest square, Parque Central, the atmosphere is sophisticated and alive as a red and white 1954 Ford Crestline Skyliner cruises around the corner and out of view, loudly honking its horn while passing. The Cuban capital is updating itself. A city that was the playground of Frank Sinatra and Brigitte Bardot in the ‘50s is once again welcoming the world’s most educated and savvy actors, writers and musicians, along with a clued-up set of stylish globetrotters.


of shops offer specialty buys. Cuba’s only perfumery, Habana 1791, creates its scents from tropical petals, including mariposa and frangipani. Perfume is sold in hand-blown glass bottles, and the laboratory in which each fragrance is organically made can be seen in the back. On the same street is a place cigar connoisseurs have flocked to for decades. The former home of the Count of Villanueva, head of 19th-century Cuban Creole society, Hotel Conde de Villanueva is one of the town’s most elegant hotels, and home to a premium cigar shop where limited editions of elite brands Romeo y Julieta and Partagas can be found.

at the square’s second hand book market. Under the mottled sunlight, vintage Cuban magazines are on display alongside kitsch cocktail stirrers from the ‘50s.

Those looking for the ultimate in luxury should enquire after the hotel’s deluxe suite. With a panoramic view of the famous street Mercedes, it’s the best hotel room in town. Where you stay is key in Havana: visitors craving an authentic experience should sample a casa particular, a colonial mansion or an apartment to rent. Chez Nous stands out among these chic new ventures, with its eccentric mix of furniture and revolutionary posters.

While Havana’s streets pulsate with music and noise, the city’s rooftops exude an exotic sense of calm. Ambos Mundos is the last word on drinks with a view, while the Hotel Saratoga’s five-star roof garden – part pool, part bar – complete with a panorama over the old and new town is pretty alluring. Floridita’s, with its authentic ‘50s bar, offers a menu of daiquiris designed by legendary mixologist Miguel Boadas.

Cuba is a country that has long been a haven for the literary elite. Hemingway wrote some of his most famed work on the island, and his inspiration is evident. The enigmatic Caribbean island is a place of stories and romance, and Havana is a city of readers. An essential stop is Poesia Moderna, a hub for up-and-coming South American writers and a beautiful example of Art Deco architecture. Around the corner on the Plaza de Armas, original editions of Pablo Neruda and Fidel Castro’s writings can be found

On the cultural side, Alicia Alonso’s Ballet Nacional de Cuba features internationally acclaimed dancers Yanela Pinera and Carlos Acosta, whose rendition of Black Swan in the historic Gran Teatro provides an enchanting escape from the chaotic streets of the city. This is Havana, a sultry, contemporary city that’s seen a renaissance of its glory days as the world’s most hedonistic holiday spot. Once again, Havana is ready to swing. 259 A


A journey _ new york

Trending up the hood By Leslie Jirsa

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Ten years ago, my husband and I moved to the Bedford-Stuyvesant (“Do-or-Die-Bed-Stuy”) section of Brooklyn. We received a lot of advice. Many native New Yorkers told us to be careful. Since the ‘60s, Bed-Stuy had been notorious for crippling poverty, crack cocaine and gun violence. Older friends and family members as far away as California asked us if we were crazy: “You’re moving WHERE?” (Apparently Bed-Stuy was known nationwide by the same exciting profile.) From friends in ultra-hipster Williamsburg, we got street cred: “Righteous! Nobody lives there yet.” We could afford to live there. It was tree-lined, the brownstones were beautiful, it was diverse and complicated. We moved in.

It’s rare in urban environments for old and new to sit side by side in any kind of agreed-upon harmony. Once the steel and Starbucks show up, it’s often curtains for the old neighborhood. But fierce neighborhoods with roots too deep to ignore do exist, and they refuse to completely disappear, even in the face of overhauling gentrification. In these neighborhoods, local ancestry is woven right into the ground. It’s not only the stoop-sitting geezer who remembers; somehow the whole neighborhood is literally built on it. Bed-Stuy is one such place. And since New York City itself is a hardscrabble, immigrant city with a deep, unshakable personality, there are more of its neighborhoods where that one came from.

“Urban Pioneers,” we were called. And in fact, the one café (“café,” as in: espresso machine, red velvet cupcakes, Wi-Fi, indie rock) in the neighborhood was actually called “The Outpost.” It’s possible we would have had more feelings about being the faces of gentrification in such an old school place – except that nobody seemed to care.

Alphabet City, Manhattan The Lower East Side is an epic, historic center of New York City. The things that transpired on these streets helped create the New York that became; without this place, we would be a very different city. When immigrants literally began pouring into the country via Ellis Island in the mid-19th century, the Lower East Side

©Paul Clemence

Some of New York’s hippest neighborhoods were real danger zones not so long ago


This page Grit and glamour in South Williamsburg Opposite page The trendy, colorful, dynamic streets of Alphabet City

was overcome. Jacob Riis photo-documented the surreal crowds on the Lower East Side – it was literally the most crowded place in the world for years, with the food, languages, traditions and baggage of every continent on the planet. “Alphabet City,” so named as a result of the lettered avenues, eventually became distinct from Lower East Side, no longer “Little Germany” but instead “Loisaida.” As the Lower East Side started falling to the foodies and hipsters, many immigrants began to pull out, and moseyed right over to Alphabet City, which could be tough and delinquent, but fiercely loyal to its roots and proud of it.

For one thing, it’s a solid 15-minute walk in any direction to a subway line. In addition, the subsidized and rent-controlled housing of a large percentage of the population living there ensures a lot of hangerson, and with limited real estate, there isn’t room for massive new housing developments, expansions or even renovations.

Perhaps it was inevitable, given its proximity to the übercool Lower East Side, but when sparkly new housing, eateries and pubs began to spring forth, there were a few gasps of disbelief. Despite the cool grit of the neighborhood that absolutely persists, outsiders are actually coming to Alphabet City on purpose, and Alphabet City is letting them.

South Williamsburg, Brooklyn Arts-ridden Williamsburg is so mainstream hipster it’s almost Soho. But a wee dawdle to the south is South Williamsburg, Williamsburg’s somewhat craftier, scrappier little brother, who is beginning to show some new blood.

Many say that Alphabet City will never fully gentrify.

There are so many tiny restaurants that are well worth a visit, even if they aren’t beautiful. But eateries Edi & the Wolf, Spina and Cienfuegos are a few glances into the merging soul of Alphabet City.

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A journey _ new york

Harlem’s stylish brownstones and the area’s historic Apollo Theater

Today South Williamsburg is still home to a Hasidic community; kosher shops, traditional apparel stores and specialty bakeries abound. And yet the Puerto Rican restaurants, pride flags and music somehow make other parts of the neighborhood feel like a tropical street party, especially in the summer. There has never really been a doubt that South Williamsburg would gentrify. Rooftops of the area afford staggering views of the East River, and as older buildings begin to get the standard makeovers, larger new-construction residences are springing up as well. But the roots of South Williamsburg are deeper than yuppies and hipster art. A 262

Like Bed-Stuy, the old and new provide a stark beauty to the neighborhood. In some witty irony, Traif, which means “not kosher,” has become a popular (potentially also offensive) foodie joint in South Williamsburg. While your dairy, pork and shellfish mix on purpose in fabulously sinful combinations, you can also people watch – lots of very beautiful people drape themselves over the few barstools waiting for tables in a very packed environment. Much of the menu involves bacon, and the Berkshire pork belly and bacon-wrapped blue cheesestuffed dates are amazing. Other new eateries include Dressler, Bistro Petit, Tabare and Rye. Harlem and Morningside Heights, Manhattan It may seem nearly unimaginable that any part of historic Harlem could disappear, be torn down or in any way re-appropriated, and yet the new has been afoot in the neighborhood, as well as nearby Morningside Heights, for well over a decade. How then is Harlem still Harlem? Perhaps the answer is that the institutions that truly made Harlem famous weren’t actually physical places anyway. The literary salons, jazz clubs, rent parties – these were by-products of the passionate souls who lived and created there, not of the dilapidated walls that held them. “Harlem” still conjures the elite intellectual cachet – the

©Paul Clemence

The deep ethnic communities that make up South Williamsburg live side by side, though not always in loving symbiosis. Jewish refugees, largely Satmar Hasidim, fled Europe for Brooklyn after World War II, and South Williamsburg literally began to form around them. As well, significant numbers of immigrating Puerto Rican and Dominican immigrants settled on the other side of aptly named Division Avenue, and as all three communities began to feel the pinch of the tanking postwar economy, crime, unemployment and drugs took their toll. Add the fact that a big ramp of the Brooklyn Queens Expressway spreads over the neighborhood, and South Williamsburg is alternately industrial, blown out, thriving, soulful, noisy, traditional, celebratory and poor.


The new is starting to mix with the old in emerging Bedford-Stuyvesant

classy, white-gloved African-Americans and Caribbean musicians, writers, artists, all victims of the systematic racism that forced them into humble abodes. By the ‘50s, much of the artists had moved on or moved out, and there were vast numbers of street kids, crack wars and robberies in the neighborhood in part because the buildings literally began to fall down.

affordable eastern Brooklyn, and an African-American and Caribbean-American neighborhood grew and thrived. Bed-Stuy has seen at least two epic street riots, the prolific business end of Spike Lee’s video camera, the crack epidemic up close, more news crews than is regular, a long, distinguished list of rap icons and the 1863 Brooklyn Atlantics baseball team. It’s been busy.

The story continues of course, in the way we know it does: crime rates plunge, the neighborhood draws attention because of its former glory, real estate opportunities are found in the historic row houses and Bill Clinton moves his offices to bustling 125th Street. Harlem’s profoundly important American history is not lost; New York won’t let that happen. A lot has taken place there, and Harlem is too important to release completely.

Nowadays, the buzzy hipster foodie restaurants and soaring new-construction residential buildings are all over the place. Luxury rentals jag upward like modern spikes on either side of Bedford Avenue, as well as smattered elsewhere in the neighborhood. But the old school bodegas, the kind where you can buy a lottery ticket, a padlock and an egg and cheese, hold tight, as do several tiny hardware stores, esoteric restaurants and the White Castle food chain. Major parts of the neighborhood have been officially landmarked for historic preservation.

Eateries and Cafes that are popping up throughout both zones include Zoma, Pylos, Red Rooster, Chocolat, Chez Lucienne, Max Café and even the Community Food and Justice. Upscale supermarkets are on the rise, as are the luxury accommodations. Bedford-Stuyvesant, Brooklyn Bedford-Stuyvesant is a historically significant area of Brooklyn, with some of the most beautifully crafted brownstones in all five boroughs. In the ‘30s, the A train carved a direct path from crowded Harlem to roomier,

Justin Warner, of Food Network fame, brought himself right over to Bed-Stuy to open his newest effort: Do or Dine. There’s both a funky vibe and a humble seriousness about the new restaurant, and like the neighborhood, the food is complicated but works well. Signature dishes include a foie gras donut, chicken and woffals, and a whole fried “fish and some chips.” Other eateries found nestled in Bed-Stuy include Peaches Hothouse, Seraghina, Sud and the Black Swan. 263 A


A journey _ new york hotel

Uptown adventure By Marwan Naaman

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When the Aloft Harlem opened in December 2010, it immediately came to embody Harlem’s 21st century renaissance, its transformation from a dangerous, disreputable neighborhood into an exciting, beautiful and trendy part of Manhattan. The first major hotel to open in Harlem in nearly a century, the Aloft came on the heels of a slew of exciting developments for the Uptown hood: the arrival of stylish boutiques, the opening of trendy restaurants and the conversion of abandoned brownstones into fashionable homes for artists, models, gay couples and traditional families. Seemingly overnight, Harlem was cool, and hipsters flocked to discover what

this most famous of African-American neighborhoods had to offer. I first visited the Aloft Harlem in January 2011, just a few days after it opened. At the time, the 44 condominium homes that occupy the upper six floors of the building were for sale (the lower six floors make up the hotel proper, and all the condos have since sold), and the entire place felt spanking new: gleaming contemporary construction with scenic views of Harlem’s historic townhouses, its parks and nearby Columbia University. Two-and-a-half years later, the Aloft Harlem has come into its own. The place now feels like part of the neighborhood, welcoming tourists eager

©Starwood

The Aloft Harlem symbolizes the renaissance of a whole neighborhood


to discover Harlem and hosting events that attract those who live nearby. For those not familiar with the brand, Aloft is the trendy, well-priced chain that’s part of the Starwood group (which also includes W Hotels). Since the hotel opened in Harlem, it has been functioning under the supervision of general manager Daniel Fevre, who has imbued the place with the area’s dynamic vibe: sleek, design-inflected accommodation, a hip, trendy atmosphere and efficient, tech-friendly service are just some of the property’s offerings. What’s more, Fevre has made it a point to hire staff who live in the area, giving the place a distinctly local flavor. The hotel lobby is one flight below street level and features a circular check-in desk. In keeping with Aloft lingo, the lobby is called “re:mix,” and it opens onto the W XYZ lounge, a colorful bar that’s now one of the hottest Uptown nightspots, complete

with live DJ music, specialty cocktails and even regular LGBT mixer events. Housekeeping services are referred to as “re:fresh,” and the 24-hour, fully equipped gym is named “re:charge.” There is no restaurant on the premises (the hotel’s policy is to encourage guests to try some of Harlem’s first-rate restaurants, like Red Rooster, Chocolat and Chez Lucienne), but the hotel does have a “re:fuel” area, which is a 24-hour, one-stop food and beverage space offering various types of snacks – including muffins, yogurt, cereal, sandwiches and soft drinks – all at regular retail prices. The coffee is complimentary – as is the Wi-Fi, as well as use of the computers in the lobby. The Aloft Harlem houses 124 loft-like rooms, with plush platform beds, oversized windows and showers with rainfall showerheads. Amenities include “plug & play,” a connectivity device for multiple electronic gadgets such as

PDAs, cell phones, mp3 players and laptops, all linked to a 42-inch flat-panel TV. And if you think that Uptown is too far from New York’s famed attractions, think again: The A express train stops just around the corner from the hotel and whizzes guests to Columbus Circle within minutes – it’s only one stop away, Times Square is two. But don’t be too quick to jump on the train. Harlem has lots of attractions. There’s shopping up and down 125th Street and Frederick Douglass Boulevard; restaurants abound; cafés like Lenox Coffee and Les Ambassades are cool and cozy; and cultural attractions beckon at the Studio Museum and the legendary Apollo Theater. Take the time to discover the hotel and its surrounding area. They’re well worth it. For reservations, tel. 1.212.749.4000, aloftharlem.com A 265


A journey _ green space

City wilderness

ŠPaul Clemence

By Robert Landon

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Three lush parks in and around New York

For the first time in many years, work is keeping me in New York during the summer. Fortunately, I have discovered a few quick, half-day escapes. And I will need to escape, as the city turns from sophisticated metropolis into a sweltering amalgam of irritated human desire and scorching concrete. My three favorite getaways lie less than 45 minutes from Midtown, and each provides a completely immersive experience in the many greens of

nature – the perfect antidote to a torrid city. Greenwood Gardens As you stand amid Greenwood’s boundless canopy of trees, it seems impossible that, just over the next hill, lies Newark, followed closely by the postapocalyptic fallows of Arthur Kill, and finally, just 12 miles away, the shining towers of Wall Street. Occupying the highest point in upscale Short Hills, New

Jersey, Greenwood Gardens was first built as the country retreat of New York real estate magnate Joseph Day. Starting in 2013, Day’s privileged take on nature is, for the first time, open to the public on a regular basis. In the ‘50s, the property, long neglected, was purchased by the Blanchard family and turned into a gentleman’s farm. Day’s lavish gardens were re-imagined for more modern tastes, though the

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grand bones – balustrades and terraces, stone gazebos and a cascading Italianate fountain – were preserved. Besides simpler plantings, the Blanchards added cleverly constructed allées: rows of trees à la Versailles that lead the eyes grandly to the horizon. Now, following a multi-year, multimillion-dollar effort led by director of horticulture Louis Bauer, the gardens have once again been restored, this time according to a layered approach in which elements of the first two iterations of the garden are combined with practical, aesthetic and ecological considerations of a new age. The A 268

results are magnificent. 274 Old Short Hills Rd., Short Hills, New Jersey, greenwoodgardens.org Fort Tryon Park For most New Yorkers, Manhattan ceases to exist after Harlem. Some people have a notion of a place called Washington Heights, though they’ve never actually been there. Beyond this lies a wilderness for which even native Manhattanites have no name. If they have ever ventured here, it was only as prisoner of a dull, small-town aunt who insisted on visiting The Cloisters while she was in town.

In fact, The Cloisters are an extraordinary assemblage of medieval structures imported stone by stone from France. Today, they are home to the medieval collection of the Metropolitan Museum of Art. Best of all, they are nestled in the most picturesque piece of Manhattan: Fort Tryon Park. Once the Rockefellers’ private domain, the land was turned into a wonderful public park by Frederick Law Olmsted Jr. Like his father, who designed Central Park, Olmstead brilliantly mixes the wilds of nature with picturesque touches of civilization. Best of all, he maximizes the views of

©Paul Clemence

This page Fort Tryon Park in Upper Manhattan, and its stunning centerpiece, The Cloisters Previous pages Greenwood Gardens in New Jersey


Vistas of Woodlawn Cemetery in the Bronx

the mighty Hudson River and across to the pristine, green cliffs known as the Palisades. Amid Fort Tryon’s ancient trees, you can neither see nor hear anything remotely resembling your idea of Manhattan. The Cloisters, 99 Margaret Corbin Dr., metmuseum.org Woodlawn Cemetery Really want to leave behind life’s burning problems? Woodlawn Cemetery awaits you in the heart of the Bronx. Founded in 1863 and spread over 160 hectares, this leafy retreat is the final resting place of New York’s Gilded Age elite, from Vanderbilts to Guggenheims. They hired the finest architects of their age – Stanford White, John Russell Pope, James Gamble Rogers, et al. – to build marble temples to their greatness. More recently,

robber barons have been joined by the greats of the Jazz Age, including Miles Davis, Duke Ellington and Irving Berlin. Did we mention Herman Melville? Celia Cruz? Talk about diversity! Despite the hubbub of history, Woodlawn remains remarkably rural, with its streams, ponds and irregular groves of trees. If you’re lucky, you’ll catch sight of the wild turkeys, deer and foxes that regularly visit. The grounds also function as a kind of arboretum, with unlikely species such as the pendant silver linden and weeping beech. The branches of the latter reach down to the ground to form a great, round room half-dome delicious green shade – the perfect place to disappear on a hot summer’s day. Webster Ave. at E. 233rd St., Bronx, thewoodlawncemetery.org

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A journey _ new york hotel

The next big thing

ŠThe Refinery

By Marwan Naaman

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Introducing New York’s Refinery Hotel

Square, but it’s in a luxurious, self-contained world of its own. The long, narrow entrance hall, with its dramatic arcades and suspended light fixtures, is filled with old world glamour and reminiscent of a bygone era when every night out was a grand event.

New York is a city of hotels, with new properties constantly popping up, each trying to entice travelers with something new, something not available anywhere else. One of the newest places to open is The Refinery, located in Manhattan’s Garment District.

Immediately to the right of the entrance is Winnie’s Lobby Bar, named after Miss Winifred T. McDonald, who in this same neighborhood once served gin in teacups with scones, jam and cream to stylish women barred from entering the area’s watering holes. The re-invented space now features a dark wood bar fronted by a lounge area that’s conducive to long conversations over evening cocktails.

This most seductive of New York hotels is set inside a historic building that was once a hat factory. The redesign comes courtesy of Stonehill & Taylor Architects, who were inspired by the building’s neogothic architecture as well as its industrial past: there are exposed pipes, oak floors and concrete ceilings, and the spacious guestrooms have a distinct industrial flair, from the sober black and white palette down to the bathroom’s dark metal stands and retro, gold water faucets. The Refinery is located on buzzing 38th Street, steps from Bryant Park, the Empire State Building, Fifth Avenue and Times

Parker & Quinn restaurant, also located on the ground level, but on the 39th Street side of the hotel, is as engaging as the lobby bar. Destined to become one of New York’s favorite haunts, Parker & Quinn features retro interiors enhanced with touches of modernity. There are oversized booths designed to host long, hearty meals, as well as mirrors and photographs in gilded gold frames and wallpaper with stylish floral motifs. There’s even a dining counter, perhaps as a nod to America’s beloved mid-century diners. Parker & Quinn serves

American bistro cuisine and is helmed by chef Jeffrey Forest. And since no New York hotel would be complete without some sort of outdoor space, the property houses its own outdoor/ indoor nightspot, The Refinery Rooftop. This sprawling space offers wonderful views of the Empire State Building and a retractable glass roof that allows guests to experience breathtaking sunsets during the warm weather months. In winter, the indoor fireplace keeps revelers warm as they sample the artisanal cocktails on offer. Hotel guests enjoy a host of amenities in their rooms, including flat-screen TVs, writing desks designed to resemble antiquated sewing machines, Frette linens, customdesigned bathrobes, mini-bars stocked with gourmet snacks and complimentary Wi-Fi. For reservations, tel. 1.646.664.0310, refineryhotelnewyork.com 271 A


A journey _ london hotel

Flying solo at The Savoy

ŠThe Savoy

By Michael Karam

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Male pampering, the London way London’s Savoy hotel is a defiant bastion of luxury and discretion, and you feel it the moment you turn off the strand and are greeted by the famous entrance set back from the bustling thoroughfare. One minute, the starched and efficient German girl from the front desk wearing earphones normally worn by close protection teams was ushering me into one of the hotel’s riverside suites and the next, Simon my butler, immaculate in morning coat, was standing dutifully by the door.

The next day, the Thames and the London Eye looked lovely in the morning sky. The only thing that would have made life even better would have been Gisele Bündchen emerging from the bathroom in a toweling robe, as Simon’s replacement butler brought in a full English breakfast. London once again beckoned, but the sofa, magazines and the TV beckoned as well. Soon it would be noon and thoughts of bloody marys began to take hold. London could wait, just a bit longer.

Simon (also with earphone) was leaving nothing to chance and showed me around with a well-practiced tour. “There is your bedside clock” (really?), and “this is the temperature control. To turn it up, press the up button” (good to know). Then he too departed, leaving me with only the strains of Vivaldi, piped into all four rooms, breaking the silence. Well, Vivaldi and one of the most serious mini bars I had ever seen. None of those airline miniatures and bags of soggy nuts thank you very much. Mine had a selection of drinks worthy of a Jay Gatsby garden party and before long I was stretched on the sofa nursing a Hendricks gin and tonic and feeling very pleased with life. My only regret, now that I was firmly ensconced in one of London’s most famed hotels, was that I was alone. If ever a setting could invigorate, or even ignite, a sex life, it was here. The bathroom was the size of a London studio, and the bedroom was dominated, but not swamped, by a Savoir bed, which, if you wanted one, would cost $30,000. Since I was solo, I decided to make the hotel my home and behave as if I were having an old-fashioned bachelor evening in, albeit with my butler. Washed and groomed – it is amazing how decent lighting, a good mirror and a generous sink can improve the shaving experience – I trotted down to the American bar. I was in need of serious invigoration, and two bone dry Martinis later the world was looking a much better place. Suitably refreshed and feeling like George Clooney, it was off to the Savoy Grill for dinner. I had the warm leek and Stilton tart with walnuts and celery followed by the Herdwick lamb cutlets, all washed down with a Côtes du Rhône, Massif d’ Uchaux. I was by now suitably lubricated and staggered back up to my room, where the bed had been turned, the lights dimmed and Bach had replaced Vivaldi. A very senior single malt, well two, finally snuffed out any resistance, and I fell into the most expensive make of bed in the world. It received me with open arms. 273 A


A journey _ geneva hotel

A Mandarin escape By Marwan Naaman

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My love affair with Mandarin Oriental hotels started 20 years ago, when I lived and worked in San Francisco. As a travel writer for Fodor’s Worldview Systems, I was based at 114 Sansome Street in downtown, in one of the soaring Art Deco towers that give San Francisco its unique charm. The city’s Mandarin Oriental Hotel was (and still is) located at 222 Sansome Street, less than a block from my former office, and its proximity made it my destination of choice for fancy lunches. My father, on his frequent visits to San Francisco, insisted on dining at the hotel’s Asian-inspired Silks restaurant, which at the time was a culinary star in a city filled with superlative eateries. Silks has since been replaced by the equally impressive S&P Brasserie, but my memories of the time spent at San Francisco’s Mandarin Oriental have remained with me.

Over the years, I’ve visited and stayed at various Mandarin Oriental hotels around the globe, most notably the one in New York, which soars above Columbus Circle in its full glass glory. My most recent experience, though, was last May in Geneva, where I spent two memorable nights at the city’s Mandarin Oriental. A brand-new level The biggest news at Geneva’s Mandarin Oriental is the recent unveiling of the Mandarin Floor, located on the hotel’s sixth story and where I stayed. French interior designer Sybille de Margerie, who also designed the Paris property’s guestrooms, public areas and spa, spent two years renovating and re-envisioning this particular floor. The result? Modern and spacious rooms and suites in a palette of warm reds,

©Mandarin Oriental

Geneva’s Mandarin Oriental Hotel is a dream destination


This page Rasoi by Vineet Indian restaurant (left), the terrace of the Panorama Suite (directly below) and Mo Bar (bottom) Opposite page The façade of Geneva’s Mandarin Oriental at sunset

exotic fuchsia and delicate tones of silver or gold, all enhanced by views over the city, mountains and Rhône River, which the property fronts. Room choices on the Mandarin Floor include the Mandarin Rooms, Junior River Suites, Deluxe Suites and – the most exclusive – the Royal Mandarin Suite, featuring private elevator access and the possibility to re-configure the space as a three-bedroom suite. All rooms and suites are equipped with the latest in technology and entertainment systems, including flatscreen TVs and complimentary Nespresso coffee machines. Places to dine The Mandarin Oriental is home to two fine restaurants, the first of which is Le Sud, offering scenic river views year-round and outdoor dining on temperate days. Le Sud is a modern brasserie that operates under the helm of chef Paul Bocuse, who hails from Lyon, boasts three Michelin stars and was named Chef of the Century by the Culinary Institute of America. Menu standouts include eggplant caviar with pesto, tajine of freerange chicken and traditional rum baba. This is also where the elaborate breakfast buffet is served daily. The hotel’s other restaurant is Rasoi by Vineet, easily one of the best Indian 275 A


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restaurants in the country. Here, chef Vineet Bhatia creates his own modern take on traditional Indian cuisine. In a contemporary dining space bathed in hypnotic shades of red and black, diners can enjoy such specialties as carrot-cumin lamb with asparagus-spiced potatoes or grilled sea bass with tandoori chili scallops. There’s also a completely vegetarian menu with offerings like achari vegetable biryani rice served with refreshing kachumber raita yogurt. Cocktail hour Open all day, but particularly appealing during after-work hours, MO Bar whips up delectable cocktails best enjoyed in full view of the Rhône River or near the open fireplace. This

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writer recommends the Basil Smash (gin with basil, sugar and lemon) and Espresso Martini, an addictive concoction of vodka, coffee liqueur, sugar and espresso. The bar’s atmosphere is so engaging and the drinks so appealing that you’ll find it hard to leave. Working it off Geneva is home to terrific restaurants and some of the best chocolate stores in the world. You’ll want to try all of the city’s culinary and sweet offerings, but make sure to work off the extra calories whenever you have some free time. The Mandarin Oriental’s spacious fitness center is a good place to stay in shape: it offers a large variety of cardiovascular machines, body sculpting equipment and free

weights, in addition to a sauna and steam room. A key to the city Should you to choose to venture out of your hotel, you’ll find that most of Geneva’s attractions are within walking distance. The famed Jet d’Eau fountain is visible once you step out of the hotel and walk left, while Geneva’s scenic old town is just across the bridge and up a gently sloping hill. Before you plan your museum and restaurant visits, be sure to consult with the Mandarin Oriental’s concierges: they’re truly knowledgeable about the city and will tell you how to enjoy your Geneva stay to the maximum. For reservations, tel. 41.22.909.0000, mandarinoriental.com/geneva

©Mandarin Oriental

The Mandarin Suite and its scenic views (top), the Junior River Suite (directly above) and a glimpse of the Royal Mandarin Suite (right)



A journey _ monaco hotel

By Shirine Saad

Monaco’s Hotel Métropole is a magnet for the jet-set

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For its glitzy sophistication and stellar service, Hotel Métropole has been chosen as the best hotel in the world by the Leading Hotels of the World. The palace is known for its quaint luxury, ultra-personalized attention, beautiful décor and breathtaking views of the Mediterranean. Guests (who have included Jennifer Lopez, Claudia Schiffer and Leonardo DiCaprio) may nosh on high-end bento boxes at Yoshi, delight in a foie gras dish at Robuchon’s restaurant and indulge in a full body rejuvenating treatment and hammam at the elegant ESPA spa. The lobby bar, which serves afternoon tea, drinks and nibbles, is the chicest place in Monaco. Even more enticing is Karl Lagerfeld’s newly designed swimming pool and lounge: Odyssey. Nestled in a quaint garden and sundeck, it’s a sumptuous haven in the heart of the city. The lounge is a hyper-modern space, with gray walls offset by a glass bar. It contrasts with the geometric perfection of the pool, which is decorated with subtle Greek mosaics and lit with a sea of starlights. Beside it thrones Hotel Métropole’s new

©Hotel Métropole

Where the gods frolic

With its stunning Belle Époque architecture, two restaurants by Joël Robuchon and sound ambience by Béatrice Ardisson, Hotel Métropole is one of Monaco’s most distinctive properties. Enter its palatial arcade and breathe in the scent of jasmine and bluebells suspended above you; then follow the lush alley to the lobby, lavishly decorated by Jacques Garcia (who envisioned Hotel Costes in Paris and La Mamounia in Marrakesh) and overflowing with baskets of fragrant blooms. You are in another world.


marvel: a 20-meter-long frieze by Lagerfeld printed on a backlit glass panel. Black and white photographs of models – including Baptiste Giabiconi, Lagerfeld’s muse – dressed like Greek gods and engaged in divine activities were used as the starting point for the elaborate etching on the panel. Fadi Boustany, the Lebanese owner of the hotel and an architect by training, loved the idea of working with Lagerfeld when he decided to revamp the pool area. “We weren’t only thinking about it as a place to swim and tan, but rather as a living space,” explains the hotel’s director, Jean-Claude Messant. “And why not a designer? Today, a designer does much more than create a dress.” Lagerfeld, the ultimate Renaissance man, is at once an art director, photographer, couturier and designer, and he often visits Monaco; he was therefore a natural choice. “Lagerfeld’s work is always very elegant,” says Messant. “It’s contemporary classic.” While the pool and lounge area welcomes hotel guests for breakfast, lunch and a swim during the day, it morphs into a hushed lounge by sunset, serving fresh cocktails and Mediterranean-inspired finger food created by Robuchon. DJs play cool beats until dawn, while designer-clad glitterati dance around the water and in the garden. This venerable institution’s renewed youthful allure is a reflection of Monaco’s new identity: luxe, trendy, cosmopolitan. “We are the hub of the jetset,” says Messant. For reservations, tel. 37.7.93.15.15.15, metropole.com 279 A


A journey _ cruise

The Mediterranean and its secrets

A Silversea cruise to lesser-known ports of call There’s a whole lot more to Mediterranean cruising than the white-washed ports of Greece and Italy. The Mediterranean Sea, after all, is the third-largest in the world and touches 21 countries across three continents. So why not go someplace out of the ordinary? That thinking is how we ended up on Silversea cruise 5211, a remarkable journey into Moorish Iberia and a time when Spain and Portugal dominated Europe. In a span of 10 days and eight ports, we visited the docks where Portuguese ships set sail to discover the Americas, where parts of Europe saw 900 years of Moorish rule and where A 280

islands are littered with prehistoric monoliths that archeologists are still trying to figure out 7,000 years later. Starting in Lisbon, we made ports of call in Cádiz and Málaga on the Spanish mainland, Palma de Mallorca and Port Mahon in the Balearic Islands, Sardinia in Italy, Corsica in France and Monte Carlo in Monaco. And given how well Silversea took care of us, the biggest thing we had to worry about was still fitting into our clothes when the cruise ended. We even had a personal butler – there’s nothing like finding the mini bar stocked with your faves after coming back from a day of touring. Or picking up the phone for a pot of English tea (24 hours a day). And because Silversea works with only the most reputable tour companies, I was confident that our land tours would help us use the short time in each port to experience as much as possible. In most stops, several tour options were offered, some themed around sports, like

kayaking past the Maro Cliffs of Nerja, Spain, or bicycling around the island of Menorca. Others were designed more as cultural exchanges through food and drink, say, port tasting in Lisbon or Cannonau wine sampling in Sardinia. Passengers who prefer to wander the charming, ancient cities on their own could simply consult the onboard Shore Concierge. One big advantage of the Iberian cruise is the more intimate experience. Because these were the less-common Mediterranean areas, they were, by definition, less touristy. That means they were easier to maneuver and the sites rarely had long lines. That happy scenario, in turn, made the cities and their attractions more enjoyable and more personal. And while the pace of “a different day, a different port” is certainly brisk, I found that most of these stops really didn’t merit much more time than the cruise allotted them, especially for people who have limited vacation days.

©Hutch Axilrod/Getty, Silversea, Onne van der Wal/Corbis, Walter Zerla/Blend Images/Corbis

By Dorothy Weiner


A day in each port was long enough, also, to give us a chance to stop at cafés and sample local specialties like fresh sardines (they don’t resemble the canned) and pasteis de nata (calling them custard tarts simply does not do them justice). Even though the cruise includes all onboard meals, there is something memorable about sitting at a wobbly-legged café table in a cobblestoned square and trying to communicate what you want to the owner. If you don’t get to do that at every port, no worries, since the ship (in our case, the 540-passenger Silver Spirit) sets the mood by offering specialties of the region the night before you dock in each destination. Prior to the Spanish ports, we had Serrano ham, gazpacho Andaluz and paella; for our French port, options included foie gras, escargot and sole Veronique. Access to food is never a problem on a cruise (unless, of course, you’d like your access to be limited), and with Silversea, everything from in-suite meals (all rooms are suites) to wine and spirits is included in the cost. The ships are “fine dining” venues, not buffets (you can, however, opt for a buffet at breakfast or lunch).

a six-course menu is paired with wines from “the world’s most distinguished wine regions.” This meal is extra, and I couldn’t imagine why anyone would need to go beyond the already gourmet offerings at the other dining rooms – until I tried it. Not only does the menu include things like Osetra caviar and Maine lobster, but there are only about a dozen tables. If, after all the touring and eating that is part of every cruise day, you don’t want to just plop into bed and sleep, there are plenty of nightowl activities each night, even on this small ship. We sampled everything from smooth jazz ensembles to lounge singers to The Stars of Silversea, a group of energetic young performers who put on a different variety show each night. I’m still humming “Dancing Queen” from our ABBAlicious night!

If you go on a cruise - Consider booking for the beginning or end of the season. The weather conditions are still good, but there will be fewer tourists, so you can better enjoy the sights. - Reserve your appointments early for on-ship dining or spa treatments. Some venues are very small and may get completely booked if you wait too long. - Think about how many tours you really need/ want. It’s nice to take a day or two off from sightseeing to just relax. Sometimes it’s hard to remember, this is a vacation! - Doing your homework will maximize your time. Some ports are small, with city centers within walking distance of the dock. In those, you might want to do your own leisurely self-guided tour, giving yourself a little more freedom to explore independently.

But that doesn’t mean you have no choices. If you don’t want to go to the formal dining room every night, or the equally fine Italian La Terrazza (my personal favorite), there’s a tapas bar, Stars Supper Club, with small plates, live music and dancing. Or The Grill, which offers “hot rock” dining al fresco overlooking the pool deck. That’s where you grill your own seafood or prime meat over a heated volcanic rock – it’s fun, casual and different. By the same token, if you want something more exclusive, there is a Relais & Châteaux restaurant onboard, Le Champagne, where

Three gracious Mediterranean ports of call: Monte Carlo (top), Málaga (above) and Sardinia (left)

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A journey _ greek island

A summer in Mykonos

By Tala Habbal

The sun-drenched Greek island is sexy, stylish and seductive

All-night parties, scantily clad sun-kissed bodies and a “who needs sleep� attitude have made the tiny Greek island of Mykonos a favorite summer travel destination for the jet-setting, party-all-night elite. However, a recent first-time trip to the whitewashed, cosmopolitan island proved that there is much more to Mykonos than first meets the eye. As a self-proclaimed anti-clubber in need of rest and relaxation, I always wondered if Mykonos would be the right vacation destination for me. To my delight and surprise, the island took me under its spell from the moment I landed, and I learned that it was in fact the perfect blank canvas for any type of vacation one desires. Days start late (since parties go on until the

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sun comes up) and are spent lounging on the beach. My Mykonos-obsessed friends repeatedly recommended I visit Nammos, and upon setting foot on the white-sand beach located in Psarou, it was clear why. Think Nice meets Cannes meets Ibiza. This family-friendly, see-and-be-seen beach offers luxurious sunbeds, crystal-clear waters and a first-rate restaurant. Take a break from tanning and head to the restaurant to enjoy everything from fresh seafood to sushi, Greek delicacies and abundant amounts of wine, before returning to your beach bed to continue lounging around until sunset. One of the best things about Mykonos is its ability to be laid-back yet glamorous all at the same time, so heading to the island’s famous Caprice bar for sunset drinks in your


beach attire is encouraged. No need to waste precious island time changing into heels. And although clubbing wasn’t at the top of my list of things to do, I couldn’t help but stumble into Güzel, one of the hottest clubs on the island, after dinner, drinks and more drinks. The party starts at 3am as beautifully clad people saunter in and dance until the sun comes up. Most of the action is in and around the main town of Mykonos (also known as Chora), and since there are only 31 taxis on the bustling island, staying in a hotel close to Chora is recommended. Perfectly situated in the heart of the town, Belvedere and Fresh are two of the island’s most luxurious five-star boutique hotels. A drink at the Belvedere’s poolside Matsuhisa (as in Nobu Matsuhisa) is the perfect way to start a glamorous evening on the island, while Fresh’s outdoor Greek fusion Kalita restaurant is a nice spot for either lunch or dinner.

seafood and amazing island views make for a memorable dining experience. Once you’ve tanned, eaten and enjoyed sunset drinks, it’s time to shop, and there’s no escaping the abundant array of accessory and clothing boutiques as you wander the island’s ancient alleyways. The upscale shopping area in the heart of town offers tourists designer brand names, including Louis Vuitton, Chanel, Dolce & Gabbana and Hermès, in addition to high-end local and international jewelry and watch boutiques like Cartier and Patseas. My friends who visit Mykonos yearly neglected to tell me that the island was a shopper’s paradise (most probably because they were too busy scoping out bars) and as I walked through the old town at midnight buying beaded bracelets and necklaces galore,

it dawned on me that this was a very different Mykonos that I was experiencing. It wasn’t a big party destination full of 20-somethings, nor was it so quiet to verge on boring. And I understood why people who vacation in Mykonos always come back for a repeat experience: the island offers everything under the sun, injected with a strong dose of glamour every step of the way. Get ready to go Kurban Travel can plan every aspect of your Mykonos vacation. The Lebanese travel agency even offers nonstop flights from Beirut to Mykonos every Wednesday and Sunday until September 4. To turn your vacation dream into reality, contact Kurban Travel at tel. 01.371.013 (Kantari), 01.875.000 (City Mall, Dora) and 01.611.000 (Ashrafieh) or visit kurbantravel.com

A short walking distance from town, the deluxe Cava Tagoo, uniquely built into a Cliffside, is another one of the island’s most buzzed about luxury hotels. The place boasts gleaming white suites and private villas overlooking the Aegean Sea, in addition to a spa, fitness center and an outdoor lounge bar. Famed architect Paris Liakos recently restyled the property, transforming it into one of the most visually stunning hotels in all of Greece, complete with an infinity-edge pool, whitewashed wooden floors and elegant four-poster beds. A trip to Mykonos wouldn’t be complete without at least one outdoor dinner by the sea. Try Sea Satin Market, a glorious restaurant situated in the old port, directly on the water and close to the iconic island windmills. Fresh

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A journey _ lebanon

The man has quite a history. He is a Red Cross veteran specialized in safety, rescue, disaster and risk management. He is now head of the committee for forest and environment for the municipality of Bkassine, his hometown, a beautiful village in the Jezzine region of Southern Lebanon. Due to the long Israeli occupation, the region was insecure for a long time and few ventured here, but, as a result it has remained pure and mostly untouched by unsightly construction. And, it is home to Lebanon’s largest pine forest, a labyrinth of beautiful winding trails, perfect for hiking. Aziz is always happy to take visitors on a walk through his beloved pine trees. On that sunny summer day, we began our hike in the public garden area of the forest, which features little huts selling local produce, like jam, juice and honey, and a rest house offering snacks and Lebanese mezza. On the way, we passed the wooden cottages of La Maison de la Forêt, a unique ecotourism concept that opened in June, set in the midst of the forest. The place offers a bike rental station and an adventure park, as well as huts selling local artisan products, and an eatery – it’s also a good spot for an overnight stay. Just imagine waking up to a chorus of birds and having your breakfast right under the pine trees – pure bliss!

By Sabina Llewellyn-Davies

Lose yourself in Bkassine’s evergreen forests A 284

I used to call him the King of the Forest, but I’ve since changed my mind. During a recent hike along a sandy trail through the towering pines of the Bkassine forest, he stopped dead in his tracks. “What is it?” I asked. He bent down and separated a bush to show me a bird’s nest with four tiny eggs. “You have the eyes of an eagle,” I said. So Eagle Eye is Maroun Aziz’s new nickname.

We continue through an array of thyme, wild lavender and yellow thorny bush, walking past stunning stone formations. “There is amber residue here,” says Aziz, as he bends down to grab a handful of dark soil. “Now, follow me into the Amazon,” he says as he stomps into a jungle of brilliant green fern and ivy heading toward the Jezzine river bank to uncover an 18th-century watermill. Then, it’s back up into the pine forest to Bkassine, surely one of the prettiest villages in Lebanon. The village square is dominated by the impressive Mar Takla church, with its beautiful stained glass windows. The village folk here are extremely hospitable and several ladies offer home stays with an excellent breakfast. Some will even cook you dinner, if you ask them nicely. And, of course, it goes without saying, pine nuts feature gloriously on most menus.

©Sabina Llewellyn-Davies

A stroll among the pines

As we ventured into the forest, the trail took us steeply downhill toward a clearing, and I stopped to take in the breathtaking view of the Jezzine cliffs across the valley. Aziz pointed out the wedge that marks the border between the Shouf and Southern Lebanon. In the distance, to our left, I can make out the Niha fortress, and to our right is Jezzine’s dramatic waterfall.


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A journey _ airline

Flying with the Brits By Marwan Naaman

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In the biggest travel news to hit Lebanon last year, British Airways announced that after a long hiatus, it would once again be operating its nonstop London-Beirut flights. I had the good fortune to experience British Airways Club World (business class) first-hand, on a recent trip from Beirut to North America. One of the (many) pluses when you’re flying Club World is that you can check in three bags for free, allowing you free rein if you’re planning a shopping spree in New York, LA or Miami. In Beirut, you also have exclusive access to the intimate British

Airways lounge (this is different from the Cedar Miles lounge), where an array of foods and drinks are on offer. What’s special about the Club World cabin on the London-Beirut flight is that there are two seats on one side of the aisle and only one seat across the aisle. If you plan in advance and purchase the one seat (you can do this on the airline’s website), you can enjoy a large space all to yourself. The seats on the plane can be adjusted to an individual passenger’s liking and can be transformed into totally horizontal beds. I slept throughout the flight and arrived fresh and rested to Heathrow airport.

After landing at Heathrow’s Terminal 1, I had to transfer to the airport’s newest building, Terminal 5, to catch my connecting flight to New York. I chose to fly into Newark Liberty Airport in New Jersey because it is smaller and more convenient for me than JFK Airport in Queens. Because I was flying Club World, I was able to use the Fast Track option so I didn’t have to wait in line for passport and security checks. Since my connecting flight was not due to take off for another six hours, I had plenty of time to explore Terminal 5 where tons of tax-free shopping

©British Airways

British Airways’ Club World cabin is the best way to cross the Atlantic


This page The Galleries Club lounge at Heathrow Airport’s Terminal 5 (below and bottom right) and at Newark Liberty Airport (right) Opposite page The Club World cabin aboard British Airways (top) and a vista of the British Airways fleet (bottom)

options are on offer, including stand-alone boutiques for Burberry, Cartier, Harrods and more. There are also various restaurants and cafés, allowing passengers to while away the time stocking up on discounted designer goods and sampling delectable cuisine. But more importantly, Club World passengers have access to the British Airways Galleries Club lounges, located at either end of the Terminal. The Galleries Club lounges provide utter comfort, beginning with 20 separate shower suites, stocked with soft, clean towels and complimentary toiletries. Club World passengers can also choose to visit the on-site Elemis Spa for a complimentary treatment.

Both the North and South lounges are plush, sprawling affairs, with oversized couches, decadent buffets (food options change depending on the time of day), a wide selection of beverages, lots of magazines and free Wi-Fi.

As the captain announced our descent into Newark airport, I felt excited at the prospect of being once again a part of Manhattan’s dizzying, incomparable beat. At the same time, I felt regret that the whole Club World experience was coming to an end.

The Club World cabin aboard the London-Newark flight was out of this world. I essentially had my own lounging area, with movable partitions, allowing me to tune out my fellow passengers and exist within a peaceful cocoon. I enjoyed the three-course menu (salad, fish and dessert, in addition to cheese and chocolate), and watched the latest flicks on the large, crystal-clear screen, all while lounging comfortably on the reclining seat.

But two weeks later I got to experience Club World all over again, this time on my return trip from Toronto to Beirut. During the first leg of the journey, the airline was offering a sleeper service, so I was served dinner at the British Airways lounge inside Toronto’s Pearson International Airport before boarding the plane, allowing me to sleep for the entire flight without disruption. The definite highlight of my return was the British Airways

International Lounge at Heathrow’s Terminal 1. British Airways took over this lounge from BMI when it purchased the airline last year and rebranded it, complete with a design makeover that resulted in a plush lobby area with comfy couches, a chic dining room with a minimalist flair and individual resting areas where you can recharge your mobile while taking a power nap. All in all, the trip was so pleasurable that when the time came to book my next flight to the United States (to San Francisco in September), I skipped the other airlines and opted for British Airways once again. To book your own British Airways flight, visit britishairways.com A 287


A last _ word

Give yourself a hand By Robert Landon

I admit it. I’m engaged in a lifelong affair with my right hand. Hand and I first fooled around when we were both 11, and though I am now happily married, I refuse to let the old flame die. When my mate is traveling or otherwise indisposed, I turn the lights down low, fire up a few hundred megabytes of high-speed Internet and just let Hand’s fingers do the talking. When he and I want to take it to the next level, we invite over Leftie and make it a threesome. Until last month, that’s as kinky as it ever got between us. And then a Tenga Egg, looking all shy and innocent, showed up one night in our bedroom. In Japanese, Tenga means “elegantly arranged,” a term traditionally associated with well-crafted classical dance or beautiful, and beautifully worn, kimonos. Now, Japan has added artificial human orifices to that list. Since its founding in 2005, Tenga has achieved what can only be described as explosive success, selling more than a million male masturbators in the first year alone. So what’s their secret sauce? Besides the penis-friendly engineering, the look and feel of Tenga’s tools make sex look like a wholesome and hygienic activity. In fact, there’s very little to remind you of sex at all. Nothing about it says “vagina” – no fleshy colors, no suggestion A 288

of hair or pores, no messy folds or ridges. Nor does anything about the packaging refer, even slyly, to sexual organs. The egg-shaped container is neither yoni nor lingam. If an uninitiated person spotted it in your man bag, they’d guess it held chocolate or, at the worst, a pair of L’eggs pantyhose. Never, ever would they suspect a rubbery, humanoid orifice lurked inside. But however wonderful a product makes you feel about sex, in the end it’s got to make the sex feel wonderful. And on that count, I must – please pardon the expression – “hand” it to the makers of the Tenga. Made of a squishy, stretchy, rubber-like material known as elastomer, my Tenga feels genuinely flesh-like. And while my data is limited to just one penis, I find it delivers a truly winning balance between slickness and friction. Just as important, it provides that all-important sense of otherness – the feeling you’ve made contact with a body not your own, even when there’s no one else around. Would I ever dump Hand in favor of Tenga? Never. Hand will be right here by my side, God willing, for the rest of my days. And come to think of it, who else is going to make the Tenga dance up and down just the way I like it? I guess that means we’re just going to have to find a way to play nice together. Actually, I already have a few ideas!



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