WHAT IS MICROBLADING? Microblading is a semi-permanent procedure where pigment is embedded into the skin using a disposable sterile hand tool which holds small needles. Microblading is used to make the brows look fuller and thicker, it can also be used to correct any imperfection of the current brows.
WHAT TOOL IS USED The tool that is used during miroblading is called a Tebori which means “tattooing with the hands”. It comes from Japanese art, this is how tribes would tattoo themselves in order to represent their tribes and social class. It consists of very small, fine needles that are aligned in a single row. The needles are organized in different ways to produce different “hair stroke effects” They can either be arranged in a slanted shape, a sloped shape or a U-shaped configuration. To have different shading effects a staggered round, flat, or a double row needle is used. All these needles help create a very natural looking appearance.
WHO ARE CANDITATES FOR MICROBLADING? • • • •
People who have no eyebrow hair. People with sparse brows. Those with uneven eyebrows who want to have a more balanced symmetrical look. Those who have lost their brows from extended waxing, tweezing or medical conditions.
WHO IS NOT A CANDITATE FOR MICROBLADING? • Anyone who is currently pregnant. • Someone who has cancer or is receiving chemotherapy or radiation. • Anyone currently taking steroid medications, Accutane, antibiotics, iron supplements, anticoagulants, Prednisone, etc. (They must be off of it at least 2 months before getting microblading done) • Anyone who has an open wound. • Those who have aged skin that is severely thin or wrinkled. • Someone who has a bacterial or viral infection. • Anyone who has a history of keloid hypertrophic scarring.
WHY DO MEN AND WOMEN WANT TO DO MICROBLADING? • • • • •
To improve their arch. Their eyebrows are too thin. They have sparse eyebrows. Alopecia. Uneven brows.
• • • • •
They over-tweezed them. Patchy brows. They’re too short. They have no eyebrows. There’s no shape.
PRE – CARE INSTRUCTIONS If your client has any of these conditions and or takes these medications please have then check with their doctor before the microblading procedure: • • • • •
Has diabetes and is under doctor supervision Has been in remission from cancer for a year. Has high blood pressure. Uses blood thinning prescriptions. Has seborrheic dermatitis.
Certain things must be avoided before a microblading procedure: 4 weeks prior the session • Botox • Chemical Peels (Glycolic, Pumpkin, Alpha Hydroxy Acid, Salicylic Acid, Microdermabrasion, Laser Facials, both ablative and non – ablative, Fraxel, Co2 and IPL laser treatments) 1 week prior to the session • All blood thinners such as but not excluding Ibuprofen, Tylenol, Advil, Aleve, Motrin, Aspirin, Excedrin, Warfarin, Coumadin. • Oil supplements such as but not excluding Fish oil, Vitamin E oil, Primrose Oil. • Any antibiotics, iron supplements, and magnesium, as well as Retin-A or any heavyduty skin products. • Any mood – altering drugs. Right before your procedure: • Eat something 20 to 30 minutes before your appointment. Doing so will help keep your blood sugar stable and will be less sensitive and more comfortable. • Do not drink any caffeine 2 – 3 hours prior to your appointment because caffeine is a stimulant and will increase your sensitivity. • If you bruise very easily, we would recommend you take Arnica before and after microblading. If you take any antibiotics before any dental work, please follow the same directions from your health care provider before the session. • No alcohol or exercising within 24 hours of the session.
ALLERGIC REACTIONS ARE RARE It is not very likely that people have an allergic reaction to microblading. In some very rare cases people have reported a reaction to the pigments that were used. Other factors may also be a cause for concern such as latex and lidocaine. Please make sure you ask the client before the procedure!
Each state is different on their rules and regulations regarding release forms and guidelines. These forms are here to protect both you and the client so it is important to make sure you understand the rules in the area you are practicing in. The forms that you should have include: Pre-Procedure Care and Concern Form • This form covers any health problems, any medications or any conditions that the client may have. This allows the client to know if they are a candidate for the procedure, and if they need to get their doctors approval. • This should also contain things that should be avoided prior to the session. Consent Form • This should always be filled out the day of the procedure. • This should have personal information of the client such as health conditions, medication, address, phone number, etc. • With the signature of the consent form the client is agreeing to have the procedure done. Aftercare Information Form • This is important for the client so they know the best way to take care of their newly done eyebrows. • It is important to have what should be avoided on this form as well. Again, these forms are not only vital to your client but they are critical for you. If you were to run into any issues with the client in the future it is extremely important you have these documents for back up.
This brings us to:
REGULATIONS AND INSURANCE Every state is different when it comes to its guidelines. Make sure you look into the health department guidelines in your area. Some areas require that you register yearly for a bloodborne pathogen class and obey an infection prevention and control plan. You want to make sure that you are always under the correct guidelines because any wrong doing can cost you your certification. It is important to have insurance coverage. Youâ€™ll want to get coverage with an insurance company that provides you with professional liability insurance.
STERILIZATION AND PREVENTION PLAN It is extremely necessary to have a sterile and safe environment for you and your clients. You do not want to put either of you at risk for any infections or harmful accidents. If this unfortunately, does happen it is important to have a plan of action to protect you both.
SANITATION These are rules and steps you MUST follow to ensure a sterile workplace: • You should always make sure your hands are washed and dried properly. If you are interrupted during a session and touch something unsanitary you must wash your hands again. • Fresh disposable gloves should be worn on both hands during the procedure. If the gloves touch something other than the client’s skin you must dispose of those gloves and put on a new pair. • If you are not feeling well and are having symptoms of diarrhea, vomiting, fever, rash, cough, jaundice, draining or open skin infections, boils, impetigo, or scabies. You should not do the procedure. • Make sure any disposable razors are thrown out into the sharps container. • Only commercially manufactured pigments should be used. • The areas where you store your instruments, pigments and any other items used for the procedure should always be cleaned. • Needles should be thrown into the sharps container as well. • All areas of the work space such as tables, chairs and benches should be made with material that is smooth, nonabsorbent and easy to sterilize after each procedure. • Anything applied to the human skin should only be used once and disposed after each use.
RECORDS • Hold onto ALL records such as signed consent forms. • Always keep your own records in your workplace such as licenses, registrations, and certifications.
NEEDLE AND INSTRUMENT STERALIZATION • Only single throwaway or sterilized needles and tubes should be used for each client. • Clean instruments and any sterilized instrument packs should always be kept in a clean, dry labeled area. • When using sterile instrument packs make sure every time you evaluate them making sure there was no way for it to be contaminated. If it looks like there could have been some contamination please discard and use another pack.
MAINTENANCE OF PIGMENTS • While preparing for the colors to be used for the procedure, it should be put into a clean single use container for each client. • Once the microblading is done, whatever color is remaining should be discarded along with the container.
FACILITIES AND EQUIPMENT • Sufficient lighting and ventilation is a must. • The walls, floors, ceilings and surfaces of the workplace should be smooth, durable, nonabsorbent so it is easy to clean. • The floor should be cleaned such as swept and mopped daily. • Sanitary bathrooms and sinks should be accessible to customers.
PROCEDURE SPACE • Microblading should be done in its own area. This area should ONLY be used for microblading and no other procedures. • No person should have any food or drink in this area.
CROSS – CONTAMINATION Cross – contamination needs to be avoided at all costs, these are some ways that it can occur: • If anyone shares the same equipment or materials. • If a sterile and used instrument comes into contact with each other. • If a disinfected instrument is placed on a dirty surface. • If strict operator hygiene is not followed. • If disposable gloves are not thrown out immediately.
DISPOSAL OF WASTE • Needles, razors or any other sharp tools used in the process should be thrown out separate from other waste products. It should be thrown in a sharps container immediately after use. • Containers containing biohazard wastes should be sent to a place to be managed as medical waste. • Any other waste should be thrown into a trash can lined with a plastic trash bag. • Waste containers should always be kept closed when not in use.
To microblade to the best of your ability it is important to understand the different layers of the skin. The epidermis is the top five layers of the skin. These layers consist of shedding dead cells and they contain quickly rejuvenating cells. If the color is only penetrated into these top layers, the pigment will not last for a long time. Right underneath the epidermis is the upper part of the dermal layer. This layer is known as the papillary dermis. The ultimate goal is to get to this layer. This is exactly where you need to get the color penetrated to give it a longer lasting effect.
EPIDERMIS The purpose of the epidermal layer is to keep our skin healthy. The thickness of the epidermis varies throughout our bodies. The thinnest layer is our eyelids which is at .05 mm and the thickest is on our palms and the soles of our feet at 1.5 mm. The 5 layers of the epidermis are: Stratum basale, stratum spinosum, stratum granulosum, stratum lucidum and the stratum corneum (this is bottom to top). You would have to penetrate pass the stratum basale for the pigment to hold for a longer period of time.
DERMIS The dermis has different thickness throughout the body as well. It is .30mm on the eyelid. The dermal layer of the skin consists of our blood vessels, sweat glands, nerves, hair follicles and where collagen and elastin are found.
HOW DOES AGING AFFECT THE SKIN? The older we get the functions of the skin begin to change. What once helped rejuvenate our skin begins to slow down and sometimes completely stops. The fact that the skin has become thin and wrinkled is not the best situation for microblading.
Microblading on a younger client’s skin vs an older client’s skin is not the same. The results will be a little different and there may be an increased amount of bleeding in the more mature client’s skin due to the thinning skin.
THE FITZPATRICK’S SKIN TYPE CHART Light, pale white
TYPE 1: - Pale Skin/Freckles - Always Burns - Blue Eyes - Never Tans - Red or Blonde Hair TYPE 2: - Fair Skin/Freckles - Blue or Green Eyes - Red or Blonde Hair
- Burns Easy - Doesn’t Tan Easy
TYPE 3: - Fair to Olive Skin - Hazel or Blue Eyes - Light to Dark Hair
- Doesn’t Burn Easily - Able to Tan
TYPE 4: - Moderate Brown Skin - Hazel or Brown Eyes - Dark Hair
- Rarely Burns - Tans Easily
Brown, drak brown
TYPE 5: - Dark Brown Skin - Dark Brown Eyes - Darker Hair
- Rarely Burns - Tans Easily
Very dark brown, black
TYPE 6: - Black Skin - Dark Brown Eyes - Darker Hair
- Never Burns - Always Tans
Medium white to olive
Olive, mid brown
MAPPING THE EYEBROWS This step is very vital in microblading. Every person has a different face shape, you have to look at each individualâ€™s bone structure to measure the eyebrows the right way for them.
There are six points of mapping: 1. Start eyebrows at the crown: Measure from the outside corner of the nostril, bringing the line up to the crown of the eyebrow. If the client wants more of a dramatic look bring the brows in toward the nose by adding a few more strokes. 5
2. Arch of the eyebrows: Measure straight up from the outside of the iris.
3. Outer Length Eyebrows: Measure the end of the eyebrow tail from the outside corner of the nose and eye, following through toward the temple.
4. Center of the Eyebrows: Measure the center of both brows by placing a line from the middle of the cupidâ€™s bow on the lips, straight up along the middle of the nose to the midpoint of both eyebrows.
5. Top of the Eyebrows: Measure across top of the eyebrows with a straight line, placing it above both arches.
6. Lower Part of the Eyebrows: Both brows need to be measured horizontally, measure across at the lowest part of the brows.
DIFFERENT FACE SHAPES AND DESCRIPTIONS ROUND
The round face shape is characterized by a wide hairline and fullness below the cheekbones. These face shapes look great with longer hair that lengthens the face. Long layers are the most flattering for this face shape, where short layers can accentuate the roundness of the face. Side swept bangs can also add length to a round face.
This face shape is characterized by a wider forehead and narrower chin. Adding side swept bangs to this style helps disguise the width of the forehead. Keeping the style fuller around the jaw helps to add weight to the narrower chin.
The square face shape is characterized by a wide hairline and jawline. The square shaped face need height on top and narrowness at the sides. Deep side parts, texture, and soft bangs helps balance the square face shape. Longer length looks great with their more angular and powerful jawline. This face shape should avoid straight lines.
This face shape is characterized by a very long and narrow bone structure. Longer hair pulls the face down making it appear even longer. If you have an oblong face keep your style shorter or add shorter layers. Adding curls and body can make the face appear wider as well.
The oval face shape is longer than wide, with a jaw that is narrower than the cheekbones. Because the oval shaped face is so proportional, this face shape looks good with about any hair style. Any length of cut looks great! Congratulations! Add layers near the cheekbones, lips, or chin to accentuate that feature.
The diamond face shape is characterized by a narrow chin and forehead with wide cheekbones. Hair styles that work best with this face shape have narrower sides and fullness at the chin. A bob is a great haircut for this face shape. This face shape can also add straight bangs to shorten the face. Also try tucking your hair behind your ears to accentuate your prominent cheekbones!
The ultimate goal is not only to create beautiful brows for your client but also to make them feel as comfortable as possible. When preforming the procedure, the client’s head should always be leaning back and facing up. Don’t let their chin face down or their head too far back this will create an issue for you while microblading.
Just like in selfies when they say lighting is key, lighting is key here as well. LED lighting is highly suggested Lighting helps you see everything, you’ll want to be able to see all the details.
SETUP AND SUPPLIES These are the items you’ll need for a successful microblading procedure: - Work Area Paper or Cloth - Drawing Pencils & Measuring Tools - Brow Scissors, Tweezers or Thread - Microblade Tools - Pigment Cups & Rings - Tissues - Barrier Films for Tools - Sharps Waste Container - Disinfectant
- Gloves - Moist Wipes & Cotton Swabs - Eyebrow Pigments - Topical Anesthetic - Disposable Headrest Cover - Disposable Client Drape - Aftercare Ointment or Cream - Work Table - Bed or Recliner
Make sure everything is sterilized before each procedure!
NEEDLE QUALITY AND STERILIZATION Make sure you are purchasing your needles from a reputable company. Before the use of needles please check the tool because if the needles are defective they can cause even more bleeding, scaring or skin damage. Dispose of every needle after use, do not use the same needle again!
There are so many different types of needles available that create different shapes and sizes of hair strokes. The size is determined by the number of needles in the arrangement and the gauge of each needle. Smaller needles have better color absorption. The smaller size allows for the needles to slice into the skin easier. The larger needles make a thicker hair stroke which makes them appear bigger and bolder.
STRENGTH OF NEEDLES
The needle strength you will need to use is determined by the thickness of a client’s skin. The flexible needles are used more. They are meant for thinner skin because of the flexibility. Hard needles are used for a more bolder hair stroke. With the hard needle it is easier to penetrate into the skin so not a lot of pressure is needed. A hard needle is great for darker, thicker and or oily skin.
NEEDLE CONFIGURATIONS Slant Needles
U Shape Needles
• Can be used on most people. • Makes lines crisp. • Great for use on the bottom of the eyebrows. • Gives more detailed hair strokes. • Gives a soft, rounded finish
• Makes fine line hair strokes • Allows for a curved stroking motion
• Used to add a shaded effect between hair strokes. • Adds Depth
PROCESS OF A MICROBLADE PROCEDURE
Stretching the Skin
The skin MUST ALWAYS be stretched properly. This will allow you to create smooth even hair strokes. It will keep the hair strokes from looking blurry when healed.
Placement and Angle of the Tool
A microblade tool should be held at a 90-degree angle, like a pen. Its handle should be in an upright position, do not lean it to the left or the right. Every needle placement needs to make the same contact on flat, stretched skin.
Consistent Pressure is Key
If steady pressure is not applied uneven color will happen. If using the right tools, you should be able to use very little pressure and the needles should softly glide through the skin. The thicker the skin the more pressure needs to be used. With thin skin a lighter pressure is required. With normal skin thickness it will require a gentle, medium pressure stroke. With thick skin a little more pressure is necessary. Bleeding does occur during the process but if you find that you are constantly wiping because of bleeding you may be applying too much pressure. The results from too much pressure is not pretty they include heavy bleeding, blurred strokes when healed, spreading of color, scar tissue and a grayish color.
You must keep a slower consistent pace while microblading. If it is done too fast the color will not stay.
STEPS FOR MICROBLADING STEP 1 DRAW AND MEASURE • This is where mapping comes into play. Measure the brows using the points of measurement on the client’s face. • Show the client the initial shape and see if they agree. • If necessary you may need to tweeze the brows where needed, make sure your client is okay with that first. STEP 2 DRAW AN OUTLINE • With a marker, place dots around the exact shape of the brow. STEP 3 APPLY A TOPICAL ANESTHETIC • Using the tip of a clean q-tip apply the numbing cream on both brows. Avoid touching the outline that you drew • STEP 4 IMPLANT THE COLOR • Make sure you are stretching the skin correctly. • Keep the tool at 90 degrees at all times. • Start with light, steady pressure, keeping a slow pace while gliding the needles through each hair stroke. STEP 5 SOAK WITH COLOR • A few times during the procedure and one time at the end apply color over the hair strokes you made. Let the pigment soaked for 3 – 5 minutes. Wipe clean.
STEP 6 APPLY TOPICAL ANESTHETIC • Reapply the anesthetic if the client seems to start feeling a little bit more pain. STEP 7 CHECK YOUR WORK • Make sure you step back from your work a few times and make sure everything is even. Sometimes when you’re too up close you don’t get to see the whole picture. STEP 8 FINISH IMPLANTING COLOR • Finish up the finishing touches on your client. • Show your client and ask if there’s anything else they’d like. If it is something you wouldn’t feel comfortable doing, such as making them longer because it will make the face appear droopier, kindly tell the client the reason why you wouldn’t suggest doing this. STEP 9 ALL DONE • Once the client is satisfied, do the last color soaking. • Make sure you go over the aftercare instructions with your client again. • Clean your station and dispose of any items that need to be thrown away.
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Published on Aug 11, 2018
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