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exceptional WINTER experiences 2013 SPONSORED BY The Marriott Rewards速 Premier Credit Card From Chase

2013 exceptional travel experiences 1

2013 exceptional travel experiences 2


ABSORB THE CULTURE 2013

Contents Exceptional WINTER Experiences This Winter, Your Own Kind of Wonderland Determining how and where to spend your wintertime months is a very personal question—just as personal as, say, your style of skivvies or how you take your coffee in the morning. For example, do you like going somewhere warm, with a fancy umbrella drink in one hand and soft Salvadorian sand sifting through your fingers on the other? Or do you love the snow so much that you’re already researching new après-ski hot spots long before the mercury drops? Whether your holiday travel means crossing the equator for some heat or braving the shortest days of the year to see the northern lights, we encourage you to stay true to yourself and find the wintertime wonderland that suits you best. Our AFAR.com members, local experts, and travel ambassadors have shared a wealth of inspiration to help you choose.

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50,000 MARRIOTT REWARDS® BONUS POINTS after you spend $1,000 in three months after account opening Apply now for the Marriott Rewards Premier Credit Card from Chase and pay $0 introductory annual fee for the first year; thereafter $85.* MarriottPremier.com 1-888-623-STAY Offer Code 3TN *Purchase and balance transfer APR is 15.24% variable. Cash advances and overdraft advances APR is 19.24% variable. Penalty APR of 29.99% variable. Variable APRs change with the market based on the Prime Rate, which was 3.25% on 03/21/13. Annual fee: $0 introductory fee the first year. After that, $85. Minimum Interest Charge: None. Balance Transfer Fee: 3% of the amount of each transaction, but not less than $5. Note: This account may not be eligible for balance transfers. Cash Advance Fee: 4% of the amount of each advance, but not less than $10. Foreign Transaction Fee: None. Credit cards are issued by Chase Bank USA, N.A. Subject to credit approval. To obtain additional information on the current terms and information on any changes to these terms after the date above, please call 1-888-623-7829 or visit www. MarriottPremier.com. You must have a valid permanent home address within the 50 United States or the District

2013 exceptional travel experiences 3

of Columbia. Restrictions and limitations apply. See www.MarriottPremier.com for pricing and rewards details. Marriott Rewards points needed for a standard reward free-night stay range from 7,500 points for Category 1 hotels to 45,000 points for Category 9 hotels. Refer to MarriottRewards.com for all reward redemption values. © 2013 JPMorgan Chase & Co. All rights reserved.

COVER: GlacierNPS (Flickr) TOC: Jake Stangel

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A Bowl of Soup for Neruda it deserved, serving it in a caldillo de

rosy conger, giant eel of snowy flesh,” the

congrio with a new twist. He added a

poet Pablo Neruda wrote in Oda al Caldillo

sprinkle of merkén, a seasoning used by

de Congrio. “And in Chilean stewpots,

the indigenous Mapuche people. The

along the coast, was born the chowder,

blend of smoked chili flakes, salt, cumin,

pregnant and succulent, a boon to man.”

and coriander brought a spicy, smoky

Neruda concludes his ode by saying that

dimension to the broth.

one who eats eel soup may know the taste

Neruda probably never heard of merkén;

of heaven.

most Chileans weren’t familiar with it

Neruda (1904–1973) was a renowned

before it began appearing in specialty

gourmand: He wrote tributes to lemons,

food shops in the past decade or so.

tomatoes, artichokes, and corn. But for

But the poet’s love of food and country

Neruda, it was caldillo de congrio that

suggests that he would have enjoyed

captured the essence of his country. The

this extra kick to his caldillo dale congrio.

soup is made with fish broth, onions,

Maybe he would have revised his ode and

garlic, cream, tomatoes, potatoes, and the

added a stanza for the spice. —Chantal

most important ingredient: the congrio

Martineau

executive chef at Vina Indómita. Ingredients 1 pound fish head and bones (cracked) ¼ cup white wine 6 cups water 1 tomato, coarsely chopped 1 carrot, coarsely chopped 1 onion, coarsely chopped 2 tbsp fresh cilantro, finely chopped, plus 4 to 6 sprigs, whole 20 to 30 medium shrimp, peeled 3 tbsp olive oil 1 cup flour ½ tsp sea salt ¼ tsp pepper 1½ pounds conger (skinned, cut into 4 to 6 fillets) 3 medium potatoes, sliced ½ inch thick 2 cloves garlic, minced 1 red pepper, julienned 1 green pepper, julienned 1 pinch merkén 3 tbsp cream Make it

rosado (or pink conger, a snaky fish with speckled rosy skin and white flesh).

Where to Sample

1. In a heavy-duty pot over high heat, sear the

Neruda found the wedding of flavors from

Caldillo de Congrio

fish head and bones. 2. Add the wine to deglaze

land and sea divine.

the bottom of the pot. 3. Add the water and bring to a boil. 4. Toss in the tomato, carrot,

Because Chile is a slender leg of land

Galindo

that runs along the Pacific Ocean, most

In addition to eel chowder, this

communities have easy access to fresh

neighborhood café in Santiago serves

seafood. Neruda may well have bought

Chilean staples such as empanadas and

conger at the fish market in the city of

pastel de choclo.

Valparaiso, where he owned a home

Dardignac 098, Recoleta, Santiago,

heated grill, and set aside. 7. In a bowl, combine

called La Sebastiana, now a museum.

56/2-777-0116, galindo.cl

the flour, salt, and pepper. Lightly dredge the

onion, and half the chopped cilantro. 5. Reduce heat and let simmer for at least 20 minutes, then strain and set aside the broth, which may be refrigerated for later use. 6. Lightly brush the shrimp with olive oil, cook 2 to 3 minutes on a

conger. 8. Heat half the remaining oil in a skillet

Today, mornings at the market are frenetic, as fishermen drag their boats

Oda Pacífico

over high heat, and sear the fillets for a minute

in on wheels and sell the fresh catch

As you enjoy your caldillo and one

or two on each side. Place in a lightly greased

right out of their vessels. When I visited,

of the signature pisco sours (try one

baking dish. 9. In an oven preheated to 350°F,

Franco Cifuentes—the executive chef

with merkén), take in the spectacular

cook the conger for 10 minutes or until it flakes

at Vina Indomita, a winery in the nearby

views of the Valparaiso harbor from the

Casablanca Valley—took me there to buy

second story of a sleek wood-and-glass

conger. “I use the same flavors Neruda

restaurant.

mentioned in the poem,” said Cifuentes.

Condor 35, Valparaiso,

“The preparation may be different, but the

56/32-223-8836, odapacifico.cl

result is very similar.”

ART CREDIT: Ivan Kashinsky

Adapted from the recipe of Franco Cifuentes,

easily with a fork. 10. Remove from the oven and set aside. 11. Bring the broth to a simmer in a pot over medium heat and add the potatoes. Cook for 10 minutes or until the potatoes are fork tender. Remove them and set aside. 12. In a saucepan, heat the rest of the oil and sauté the garlic and peppers until soft. 13. Place one

At the market, Cifuentes coached me

Viña Indómita

fillet of conger and four shrimp in each bowl. 14.

to look for an eel with clear eyes, a firm

Executive chef Franco Cifuentes puts

Divvy up the vegetables, including the potatoes,

body, and a bright pink hue behind the

his spin on the traditional chowder at a

among the bowls and top with the rest of the

gills. After inspecting several candidates,

winery outside Valparaiso.

chopped cilantro and a tiny pinch of merkén.

we settled on one angler’s biggest catch

Km 64, Ruta 68, Valle de Casablanca,

15. Ladle the broth over the top and drizzle half

of the day. It was a congrio rosado,

56/32-215-3900, indomita.cl

the breed glorified in Neruda’s poem,

a tablespoon of cream onto each serving. 16. Garnish with cilantro and a shrimp, and serve.

weighing close to 20 pounds. Cifuentes treated the fish with the respect 2013 exceptional travel experiences 6

AFAR January/February 2012, p.50,51

EAT

“In the storm-tossed Chilean sea lives the

Caldillo de Congrio (SERVES 4 to 6)


EAT HIGHLIGHTS

BOLIVIA LIKE A LOCAL By STEPHEN M. SMITH

A TASTEFUL GESTURE, Colombia By ROB HODGES

For traditional Bolivian food, the residents around the San Miguel area of La Paz like El

The signature dish of Salento, Colombia, is trucha con patacones— trout with mashed,

Vagón del Sur. I started out with the tucumanas (empanadas with a spicy garlic sauce)

fried plantains—and the most delicious version in town can be found at El Rincon de

and surubi (an Amazon River fish), followed by the picante de pollo (chicken in a spicy

Lucy. The cozy, family-run eatery serves huge, inexpensive set meals with the star

red sauce, served with potatoes and chuño). Outdoor seating is available when the

attractions accompanied by soup, rice, beans, cheese, eggs, arepas, fresh juice, and

weather is warm, and most entrees go for around USD $10 each.

desserts. The basic elements stay the same, but matron and chef Lucy routinely tweaks

Read more

the dishes, which keeps customers returning day after day. Read more

2013 exceptional travel experiences 7

2013 exceptional travel experiences 8


EAT HIGHLIGHTS BEST NOODLES IN VIENTIANE By WANDERLUSTRESS The broth is pork-based, rich but not oily. You can choose cow piek (a thick rice noodle) or pho (thin rice noodles) or mee (yellow egg noodles), along with pork, duck, or chicken. The thing that makes it so delectable is the healthy topping of fried shallots, which adds a sweet roasted flavor. The soup is served with iced chrysanthemum tea along with an array of chilies and sauces that I never use because the broth is really that good just the way it is. Read more

SWEET ISTANBUL TREAT By JULEE K. So why go to Istanbul in the late fall/early winter? Well, airfares are lower than in high season, you can pretty much get any

BEAUTIFUL BRITISH BRUSCHETTA By DENISE REYNOLDS I was weary of finding great Italian food in London. Jamie Oliver’s Italian smacked me with a breadstick and proved me a fool. His adorably rustic restaurant in Covent Garden has just the right touch of hipness and all the right flavors and taste. This “Beautiful Bruschetta For 2” packs a punch with peas, mint, bright asparagus, smashed broad beans, and some unexpected smoky mozzarella and chili for an extra

hotel room you want, there are no crowds so no lines to stand in, and the price of pretty much anything you might want to buy as a souvenir is at rock bottom. There’s also a sweet treat waiting for you if you go at this time of year—freshly roasted chestnuts! Read more

kick in the pants. Mr. Oliver, I salute you. Read more

2013 exceptional travel experiences 10


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*Purchase and balance transfer APR is 15.24% variable. Cash advances and overdraft advances APR is 19.24% variable. Penalty APR of 29.99% variable. Variable APRs change with the market based on the Prime Rate, which was 3.25% on 03/21/13. Annual fee: $0 introductory fee the first year. After that, $85. Minimum Interest Charge: None. Balance Transfer Fee: 3% of the amount of each transaction, but not less than $5. Note: This account may not be eligible for balance transfers. Cash Advance Fee: 4% of the amount of each advance, but not less than $10. Foreign Transaction Fee: None. Credit cards are issued by Chase Bank USA, N.A. Subject to credit approval. To obtain additional information on the current terms and information on any changes to these terms after the date above, please call 1-888-623-7829 or visit www.MarriottPremier.com. You must have a valid permanent home address within the 50 United States or the District of Columbia. Restrictions and limitations apply. See www.MarriottPremier.com for pricing and rewards details. Marriott Rewards points needed for a standard reward free-night stay range from 7,500 points for Category 1 hotels to 45,000 points for Category 9 hotels. Refer to MarriottRewards.com for all reward redemption values. 息 2013 JPMorgan Chase & Co. All rights reserved.

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czech, please Within minutes of meeting Darebnik in the

for “cheers,” na zdravi, doubles as

said the vest-wearing 20-something

Jan Becher Museum (which housed the

“to health.” As I raised a glass of the elixir

bartender. The advice caught me off

original commercial Becherovka distillery

here, it never seemed more appropriate.

guard. After all, I was in Karlovy Vary,

before a shiny new one was built in 2010),

— David Farley

a historic Czech spa destination

I called out names of ingredients to see if

where, since the 14th century, princes,

any would stick:

potentates, artists, and ordinary people

Ginger?

have been coming to restore their health.

Darebnik laughed and shook his head

This town of about 60,000, known as

from side to side.

Carlsbad in German, overflows with

Clove?

Becherovka, where the liqueur was

curative waters that trickle from a dozen

He bit down on his lower lip and

distilled from 1867 until 2010, then sample

different public fountains.

looked away. Was I onto something?

the herbal drink.

Six seconds into my perplexed stare, the

Cinnamon?

T.G. Masaryka 282/57, 420/359-578-142,

bartender opened the drink menu and ran

“OK,” he said. “You got one, but that’s

becherovka.cz

his finger down the page until it landed

all you’re going to get.”

on the words “Midnight Pupp.” I was in a

I switched gears, asking about the alleged

Jan Becher’s Bar

place called Jan Becher’s Bar, located in

health benefits of Becherovka. Darebnik,

The basement of the historic and

the basement of the Grandhotel Pupp.

though, was equally uncomfortable

stately Grandhotel Pupp is dedicated

Ah—it was the pronunciation of that last

with this line of questioning. “Because

to Becherovka. The extensive menu of

word. A Midnight Pupp, a cocktail. It all

Becherovka was created by a pharmacist

cocktails includes a dozen or so made

made sense now.

in a spa town, it has an obvious

with Becherovka, some of which, including

The distinctive Pupp ingredient is

connection

the Midnight Pupp, are signature creations

Becherovka, a local liqueur that has long

to medicine,” he said. “But that’s not

of the bar.

been considered medicinal. When I lived in

something we want to promote.”

Grandhotel Pupp, Mirové náměsti 2,

Prague in the 1990s, I acquired a taste for

The year of creation was 1807. Local

420/353-109-111, pupp.cz

Becherovka. In 2003, the French company

pharmacist Josef Becher and physician

Pernod Ricard bought Becherovka and

Christian Frobrig, who accompanied

expanded its global distribution. I began

Count Maximilian von Plettenberg on a

to see the spirit stocked in liquor stores

visit to Karlovy Vary, discovered they

and bars at home in New York City and

shared a passion for mixing herbs,

quickly started keeping a bottle of it in my

aromatic oils, and alcohol (really, who

freezer at all times.

doesn’t?). Legend has it that after

Made up of around 20 herbs and spices,

experimentation in Becher’s lab, Frobrig

Becherovka has a tingly and bitter

left Becher with a parting gift: the recipe.

flavor profile that can be summed up as

Two years later, Becher was selling

“essence of forest.” The recipe has been

English Bitter, later renamed Becherovka,

a secret since its first concoction in the

in his pharmacy.

early 19th century, and supposedly only

Almost any Czech (other than Darebnik)

a handful of people on the planet know

will tell you ways that Becherovka is

exactly what goes into it. During a recent

somehow good for you: It eases colds;

visit to Prague I decided to make

it loosens arthritic joints; it relieves

the 90-minute journey west to meet

asthma. And Roman, my former ESL

one of those people, Vladimir Darebnik,

student in Prague, once told me it works

director of operations at Becherovka.

as a laxative. Which brings us back to

Every Wednesday, either Darebnik or

Jan Becher’s Bar, where I’d planted

Make It

master blender Bohuslav Pich, another

myself after the distillery visit. As soon

1. Pour the Becherovka, Amaretto, apricot

person in on the secret, spends two to

as I finished the better-than-it-sounded

brandy, and orange juice into a cocktail shaker

three hours in a sealed room, weighing

Midnight Pupp, the bartender poured me

with several ice cubes.

and hand mixing all the herbs and spices

a glass of Becherovka straight up.

2. Shake well. 3. Strain into

for a new batch.

As in many countries, the Czech

a tall glass, add a dash of grenadine, and serve.

WHERE TO DRINK BECHEROVKA IN KARLOVY VARY Jan Becher Museum Take a tour of the birthplace of

FooPaa This chic cocktail bar attracts Karlovy Vary’s bold and beautiful residents. There are several Becherovka cocktails on the menu, including the classic Beton (Becherovka and tonic). Jaltská 7, 420/722-658-334, www.foopaa.cz Midnight Pupp (MAKES 1 COCKTAIL) Based on the recipe from Jan Becher’s Bar Ingredients 2 3 ¼ ounce Becherovka 2 3 ¼ ounce Amaretto 2 3 ¼ ounce apricot brandy 5 ounces orange juice Grenadine

expression 2013 exceptional travel experiences 14

AFAR July/ August 2012, David Farley. p.50,51

ART CREDIT: João Canziani

DRINK

“I recommend you take a midnight poop,”


DRINK HIGHLIGHTS COZY CAFE IN UTRECHT By KRISTIN ZIBELL Warm or cold in the Netherlands, Utrecht’s Cafe Orloff is cozy and breezy at the same time. In warmer weather, sit outside along canals and cobblestone streets with friends to enjoy a beer and bitterballen combo. When temperatures dip, sit inside along velvet-cushioned seats and sip coffee while watching gloved and scarved bikers pedal by. Read more

DOUBLE HAPPINESS IN MELBOURNE By NICOLE BLAESS-SMITH Coming in off the streets of a typical windy and wet Melbourne winter day, it was a welcome relief to be able to relax next to the fully stocked fire. My gaze flickered over the menu and names like “Mr. Fu,” “Communist Manifesto,” and “Dixie Mission” leapt out at me—this wasn’t a bar for those without a little sense of humor. Adorned with Chinese lucky cats, Chairman Mao figurines, and a dragon flying overhead, the bar is a cozy retreat from the city streets. Read more

2013 exceptional travel experiences 15

THE BARN IN BERLIN By LINDSEY TRAMUTA Perhaps Berlin’s greatest gourmet coffee shop, The Barn has faced a wave of controversy surrounding their second location, which opened in the Prenzlauer Berg neighborhood last September. At this larger space, which is meant to serve more as a tasting lab and roasting home than an extension of their intimate first venture, dogs, laptops, and strollers, among other things, are not welcome. You can also forget about sugar or anything other than whole milk for your coffee. Read more


DRINK HIGHLIGHTS

GUARANTEED GOOD COFFEE, ADELAIDE By NICOLE BLAESS-SMITH

COCONUT ON IPANEMA BEACH By ASHLEY CASTLE

Chain stores have a reputation for bad coffee, really bad coffee, but things change when

All year round, Rio is hot: the sand, the intricately tiled walkways, and the people.

you visit Adelaide, South Australia. If you’re looking for a coffee that is guaranteed to

Luckily, ice-cold, fresh coconuts abound, and these little beach stands that line Ipanema and Copacabana

satisfy your palate, my pick is to head to your nearest Cibo Espresso, or “Cibo” as

are the ideal place to enjoy a fresh coco or a caipirinha any time of the day. There are two different types

the locals know it. With branches all over the city—Rundle Mall, Rundle St East, Hutt St,

of stands: the ones that open the coco with a machine, and the more authentic stands where the coconut

Melbourne St, and Pirie St, Cibo does what many other coffee chains fail to do—produce

“barista” chops off the top with a machete.

good quality.

Read more

Read more

2013 exceptional travel experiences 17

2013 exceptional travel experiences 18


Do

“The northern lights were so much more

On the first evening of the trip, travelers

they were. They were definitely worth

than I expected,” says Jennifer Farrell,

dine on venison and arctic char at the

the trip.”

from North Ridgeville, Ohio, who saw

Abisko Mountain Lodge, then bundle up in

After leaving Abisko, travelers spend two

the lights for the first time about two

snowsuits for a bracing chairlift ride to the

nights at the Icehotel (pictured). Rebuilt

years ago. Farrell traveled to Swedish

Aurora Sky Station. “The lights

every winter from giant blocks of ice, the

Lapland—a province in the far northwest

started out as a greenish fog as we walked

hotel has beds made of snow covered

of the country that’s known for its

up to the chairlift, and I was worried I’d

with reindeer pelts. Ice sculptures serve as

indigenous Sami culture and snowy

be disappointed,” Farrell says. “Then,

decorations. (Warmer accommodations

sweeps of forests, mountains, and

as we ascended into the cold, cold air and

are also available.) The hotel runs nightly

plateaus—with tour operator Discover

wind, the lights shifted. They

trips by snowmobile, bus, and horseback

the World. From December to March,

were spectacular.”

to the best aurora-viewing spots. If guests

the company offers a four-day Northern

At the station, visitors can take in the view

are lucky, the lights might simply appear

Lights trip that begins in Lapland’s Abisko

from an observation tower and explore

above their room in a ghostly

National Park. Here, the lights, also called

a science exhibit on the aurora, which is

green swirl.

the aurora borealis, are especially likely to

created when solar wind particles collide

—Jennica Peterson

appear due to the park’s clean air and lack

with Earth’s upper atmosphere. “I stayed

of clouds. The lights may illuminate the

outside as long as I could, slipped into the

sky in arcs, patches, or rippling sheets of

station to get warm, then went back out

green, red, violet, white, or blue, and some

to admire the lights,”

observers say they can even hear them

Farrell says. “It was surprising how they

swish and crackle.

slowly changed and how downright huge 2013 exceptional travel experiences 20

AFAR January/February 2011, Alexandra Marshall. p. 52

ART CREDIT: Clockwise from top left: Ragnar Th. Sigurdsson/Arctic Images/Alamy; Flickr, blue_quartz; Flickr, Vomir-en-costard; Flickr, soldiersmediacenter; Flickr, I mage Editor

Night Lights


DO HIGHLIGHTS

ARGENTINA GLACIER HIKE By EVE TUROW

THE BLUEBIRD CAFE, NASHVILLE By APRIL KILCREASE

Running along the Chile-Argentina border, Perito Moreno is one of three Patagonian

At the 100-seat Bluebird Cafe, hear aspiring songwriters as well as chart-topping

glaciers that is not retreating. It covers almost 100 square miles! I still remember the

geniuses perform their original works. Featured on the TV series Nashville, the venue first

moment, out of the bus window, that Perito Moreno first came into view. The enormity

gained acclaim as a testing ground for country singer/songwriters, including Taylor

of it blew me away. The following day I had the chance to actually walk on the glacier.

Swift, Faith Hill, and Garth Brooks. The legendary listening room has a strict no-talking

Clamping on my crampons, I recall the flurry of butterflies in my stomach, reaching up to

policy, so keep your reviews to yourself until after the set.

my throat.

Read more

Read more

2013 exceptional travel experiences 21

2013 exceptional travel experiences 22


DO HIGHLIGHTS YOGA ON THE EQUATOR By SAKHI VYAS My three best friends and I recently started practicing yoga. We discovered it independently—Ellen in Alaska, Anna in Michigan, Katie in Ecuador, and me in New York. While visiting Ecuador this past June for Katie’s wedding, we came up with the brilliant plan to practice yoga together on the Equator! The day before the wedding, we headed outside the city to the Mitad del Mundo site and found “balance” at the center of the world Read more

TIME OUT FOR TOTS, MEXICO By JULIE SCHWIETERT COLLAZO WINTER AT THE WAVE By ANDI FISHER

Globo Museo del Niño is Guadalajara’s children’s museum, with seasonally-themed exhibits changing quarterly. Highly interactive, it encourages learning

The wave is a gorgeous rock formation near the Arizona and Utah border. It’s part of

through play and hands-on activities. If

the Coyote Buttes, in the Paria Canyon-Vermilion Cliffs Wilderness. Don’t rush off there

your timing’s right, your child might also

expecting to just show up and visit, because this area is tightly controlled by the Bureau

be able to participate in a docent-led

of Land Management, and only 20 people are allowed in on a daily basis. You can apply

workshop or enjoy music and dancing

for permits online or participate in the daily lottery for a day pass to see these magnificent

during a live concert.

rock formations.

Read more

Read more

2013 exceptional travel experiences 24


ireland: Shear Warmth Residents of Ireland’s Aran Islands, a trio

Lore has it that each Aran clan developed

recent years. Ask for handmade sweaters

of islets at the mouth of Galway Bay,

its own distinctive stitching for sweaters,

at local crafts shops, and be ready to pay

know a thing or two about braving the

with patterns that included ancient Celtic

a little more for the genuine article.

elements. For centuries, the farmers and

symbols, cables (evocative of seamen’s

—Bob Gulla

fishermen who live there have dealt with

ropes), diamonds (farmland), or zigzags

buffeting winds and driving rains that

(the island cliffs). These patterns have

surge across the Atlantic. Their principal

been passed down through generations

means of defense? A “fisherman’s,” or

and remain powerful symbols of a family’s

Aran, sweater. Producing the thick woolen

heritage. As a sad aside, the stitches are

sweater is a time-intensive craft, since

also believed to have helped identify

authentic Arans are knit entirely by hand.

bodies of fishermen who washed ashore

“A proper Aran might have 100,000

after accidents at sea.

stitches,” says Mary Conneely, of Cottage

Today, visitors to the islands clamor

Handcrafts in County Galway, “and if you

for genuine Aran knits. As with many

care for it, it

traditional crafts, though, machine-made

will last a lifetime.”

varieties have flooded the market in 2013 exceptional travel experiences 26

AFAR December/January 2010, Emily Hsieh. p.48

ART CREDIT: Clockwise from top left: Photographs by Anita Calero; Styling by Lili Abir Regen, Flickr; tiarescott, Flickr; Corey Harmon, Flickr; Diane Wellman

SHOP


SHOP HIGHLIGHTS NARGILE IN ISTANBUL By LEEANN MURPHY The allure of smoking narghile, also known as hookah, shisha, and water pipe, is insurmountable in the Middle East. In Istanbul, the most authentic place to try it is the Corlulu Ali Pasa Medresesi. The 300-year-old Medrese has evolved from a religious school and dervish lodge during Ottoman times to bazaar stores to the current oasis for locals and tourists wishing to escape the hustle and bustle of the Grand Bazaar District. Here, no one is in a rush. Read more

THE MOROCCAN SNUGGIE By ANGIE ORTH Ah, the jalaba—one of the best souvenirs you can bring home from Morocco. A jalaba (djellaba/jellaba) is a traditional Berber robe with long sleeves & a pointy hood worn in North Africa. In the Atlas Mountains, the color of the jalaba indicates a person’s relationship status. It’s like Facebook feed for your wardrobe. The

COULD DYE IN PERU By JOAN WHARTON

jalaba is long, roomy, and warm, so

While visiting Peru last year, my husband and I were lucky enough to be in Pisac for

you can eat couscous until you feel like

the weekly farmers’ market held every Sunday. During the market, local Peruvians

exploding.

meet to buy and barter produce, bread, and other supplies they need for the week.

Read more

The market also caters to tourists, offering handmade crafts, food, and drinks that are fun to try. I was struck by the variety of products for sale, probably the most surprising of which was this powdered dye. Read more

2013 exceptional travel experiences 27


SHOP HIGHLIGHTS

BEST MARKETS IN ECUADOR By KAITLYN BARRETT

CHRISTMAS MARKETS IN GERMANY By SHARON IN

Everyone who visits Ecuador knows about Otavalo market. The weavings! The sweaters!

The markets take place usually in the center of the town, and you’ll find all manner

The scenic vendors! Saquisili has all of those and a heaping dose of local people

of stalls selling a wide array of crafts and tasty regional delicacies, such as sweets, mulled

buying local things and going about their local business. There’s street food

wine (Glühwein), and other delights. When there’s snow, the atmosphere is absolutely

(grilled chicken feet anyone?), a market just for shoes, a live animal market, and more

magical. Almost every city, town, and village in Germany has its own Christmas market,

people and commodities than you’ll have time to see in a given day.

and deciding on which one to attend is not easy, as each of them is unique and reflects

Read more

local & regional culture. Read more

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2013 exceptional travel experiences 30


exceptional WINTER experiences 2013 SPONSORED BY The Marriott Rewards速 Premier Credit Card From Chase

2013 exceptional travel experiences 31

2013 exceptional travel experiences 32

Exceptional Winter Experiences  
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